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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 07:18:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query
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Status: RO

I think it's artistic license.

Arlys

On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:08:54 +0100 Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
writes:
> 
> On behalf of a costuming colleague, as I don't know much about this 
> period
> 
> "I have a query about 14th century hose. Some of the illustrations 
> in
>  >the Psalter show men wearing hose without shoes or boots. Can you
>  >direct me to any information about this practice - or am I just
>  >misinterpreting the images?"
> 
> Can anyone help - I will pass on information.
> 
> Also, can anyone remind me how one joins please - my colleague would 
> 
> like to join us.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Some 15th-century hose were built with soles so one didn't need to  
wear shoes.  I don't know about 14th-century hose, but it's possible  
that it was done that way earlier as well.

To join the list, simply click on the url at the bottom of the  
message.  Subscription instructions are there.

Melanie Schuessler


On Jun 30, 2007, at 4:08 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

>
> On behalf of a costuming colleague, as I don't know much about this  
> period
>
> "I have a query about 14th century hose. Some of the illustrations in
> >the Psalter show men wearing hose without shoes or boots. Can you
> >direct me to any information about this practice - or am I just
> >misinterpreting the images?"
>
> Can anyone help - I will pass on information.
>
> Also, can anyone remind me how one joins please - my colleague  
> would like to join us.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Shirts, Shoes and joining h-costume ;
	Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query
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Status: RO

Interesting, I was just looking at some paintings from the =
Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection.  There were a number of them where men =
were in this state of dress.

I don't know, but wonder if its just perhaps some folk couldn't afford =
shoes.  A few years ago when doing a paper on costuming terms in the =
German language, I came across a story about a "plot" during some war or =
another where the "signal" that you were on one side was that you only =
wore a shirt.  Some members did not own a shirt, therefore they were =
allowed to borrow paper to wear in lieu of a shirt. =20

Surely shoes were more expensive than shirts?  Just a thought....


About joining, this should tell your friend all they need to know: =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 7:18 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query


  I think it's artistic license.

  > "I have a query about 14th century hose. Some of the illustrations=20
  > in
  >  >the Psalter show men wearing hose without shoes or boots. Can you
  >  >direct me to any information about this practice - or am I just
  >  >misinterpreting the images?"
  >=20
  > Can anyone help - I will pass on information.
  >=20
  > Also, can anyone remind me how one joins please - my colleague would =

  >=20
  > like to join us.
  >=20
  > Suzi
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> Some 15th-century hose were built with soles so one didn't need to 
> wear shoes.  I don't know about 14th-century hose, but it's possible 
> that it was done that way earlier as well.
Yes.  There was a christmas card sold by the Metropolitan several years 
ago, which showed a male donor in an elaborate houppelande kneeling 
before the Christ child.  You could see that the soles of his hose, 
which were black (presumably leather) were quite different than his 
colored hose.  They also had pointed toes.

I wish I'd gotten a copy of that card; I've thought of it often!

cv

--
"You can tell the difference between principles and prejudices because 
principles sometimes bind, but prejudices always feel warm and comfy." 
-- TJIC
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria is back!
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2007 13:54:04 -0400
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Status: RO


And for those of you who did not:



http://www.victoriamag.com/

Thanks for the head's up, Chiara!!!

Now I just have to hope that they will send to me FPO or overseas, right?

The only reason I finally got rid of my back issues was the weight limit that I have to have to have to observe for this military move to Cornwall, otherwise I would have kept them.? I also had 20+ years worth of Bon Appetit, Gourmet, etc..? I am such a pack rat.? Don't even ask about the fabric that I have gotten rid of, and the patterns.? But I am learning to take pleasure in sharing like I had never thought I would, and I am really enjoying that.? I am finding new joy in giving, and that has brought new life to things held in dark closets for too long.? 

Besides.? Now I have a valid excuse to buy more things when I get to England.

;-)

~Kimberley



-----Original Message-----
From: Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 10:53 am
Subject: [h-cost] Victoria is back!




I just got a post card from Victoria magazine, they are back!

I remember when Victoria magazine went away, several of us here on
this list lamented its loss.

The first issue is the November/December and will be delivered in
October.

Hope you all got your invite post card for its new issues! :)

Chiara

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Status: RO

Thank you for bringing this to my attention....I signed up again!   I =
loved that mag!
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Chiara Francesca<mailto:Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 7:53 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Victoria is back!


  I just got a post card from Victoria magazine, they are back!

  I remember when Victoria magazine went away, several of us here on
  this list lamented its loss.

  The first issue is the November/December and will be delivered in
  October.

  Hope you all got your invite post card for its new issues! :)

  Chiara

  _______________________________________________
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  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query
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Status: RO

 
 
there is a record of hosen and buskins from earlier periods (anglo norman /  
angevin specifically) having leather soles.
 
but the assumption is that these were used for 'indoor  wear'





   
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Status: RO

I just got a post card from Victoria magazine, they are back!

I remember when Victoria magazine went away, several of us here on
this list lamented its loss.

The first issue is the November/December and will be delivered in
October.

Hope you all got your invite post card for its new issues! :)

Chiara

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 19:54:43 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] New India Cottons
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Status: RO

Dear Costumers,
I have nearly 50 new India Cotton prints now available on my Web  
site, http://www.timetraveltextiles.com. In celebration of the new  
shipment, all are $12 a yard.

Also, for those of you in the Boston, Massachusetts, USA, area,  
Melinda Williams of Sari Safari (http://www.sarisafari.com) will be  
returning to Cambridge for a trunk show on Saturday, July 7, from 2  
to 7 pm. This will be a wonderful opportunity to see beautiful  
traditional regional weavings from India in cotton and silk. I have  
learned an immense amount about the nature and differentiation of  
fabrics in a pre-industrial textile manufacturing economy from seeing  
and handling these saris, and recommend the experience to anyone who  
is interested broadly in what cloth was like before the Industrial  
Revolution. I can also go on about what I mean by this at greater  
length than is fair, so I will shut up now! If you are interested in  
the trunk show, send me an e-mail privately for more info. Melinda  
will also be in Chicago and New York that week, and if you are in  
those cities and might be interested in a trunk show, let me know and  
I will pass your info along to her.

Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racy hats!
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Status: RO

Try 
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19352958/?lvname=ss_070621_hats_&ssid=ss_070621_hats_

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Hello, gang.

I was at my local bookstore this afternoon to buy a new journal and came 
across the funniest greeting cards!  I had to buy a few, just for future 
use.

Here's their webpage:

http://www.quipscards.com/

Enjoy,
Michelle
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

My Austrian mother agrees, here is her reply:

They are saying that you can make 83 different food and/or costume items
from an Ox.  Trachten is NOT a food term
Speisen= food
Trachten = folk costume

Katy

On 6/29/07, Schaeffer, Astrida <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu> wrote:
>
>  >> The phrase:
> >> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
> machen"
>
>
> Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
> context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
> case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could then
> literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the ox.
> Hard to tell without more of the original quote...
>
>
> Astrida
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

Thank you so much.? I really needed that.

:)
~Kimberley


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 12:09 am
Subject: [h-cost] Hilarious greeting cards using famous paintings


Hello, gang.?
?
I was at my local bookstore this afternoon to buy a new journal and came across the funniest greeting cards! I had to buy a few, just for future use.?
?
Here's their webpage:?
?
http://www.quipscards.com/?
?
Enjoy,?
Michelle?
_______________________________________________?
h-costume mailing list?
h-costume@mail.indra.com?
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume?


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hilarious greeting cards using famous paintings
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 10:46:13 -0400
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Well, now I've spent some MONEY!  Curse you! (ha ha ha ha ha)
Seriously, though, not a lot of COSTUME content  ;-}

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Jul 2, 2007, at 12:09 AM, Michelle Plumb wrote:

> Hello, gang.
>
> I was at my local bookstore this afternoon to buy a new journal and  
> came across the funniest greeting cards!  I had to buy a few, just  
> for future use.
>
> Here's their webpage:
>
> http://www.quipscards.com/
>
> Enjoy,
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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See....now I HAVE to send cards to every person I know or have ever  met.



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On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>  >> The phrase:
> >> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
> machen"
>
>
> Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
> context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
> case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could then
> literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the ox.
> Hard to tell without more of the original quote...

A google search on the phrase gives this page
http://64.233.183.104/search?q=cache:p5MmvIoKn78J:www.ravenstreet.org/Tirloch/ein%2520neu%2520kuchbuch%2520-%2520transcribed%2520pages......pdf+vom+drei+und+achtzigerlei&hl=no&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=no&client=firefox-a
In the document 83 foods/dishes are listed as being made from the ox,
which would probably mean that Trachten in this context isn't clothes
since 83 is given as the combined number of Spesien and Trachten.

Ingrid

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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval hose query
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Status: RO

Hi All
 
I have just subscribed. A friend posted on my behalf and there have been a
couple of responses already, but just to clarify:
 
I am costuming a film based on the images in the 14th c. Luttrell Psalter
which was made for an estate in my home county of Lincolnshire. The film is
for the museum of Lincoln (The Collection).
 
I am puzzled by the depiction of hose being worn without shoes or boots. Can
anyone direct me to any relevant sources (paintings, archival or
archaeological evidence, articles etc) which could explain this practice. I
am reluctant to dismiss the images as artistic licence' without thorough
research.
 
many thanks
 
Pauline

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12:19
 
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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 14:32:51 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

But according to my Mum it is 43 food _and/or_ clothing items.

Katy

On 7/2/07, Ingrid G. Storr=F8 <ingridgs@techarea.net> wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
> >  >> The phrase:
> > >> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
> > machen"
> >
> >
> > Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
> > context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
> > case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could then
> > literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the ox.
> > Hard to tell without more of the original quote...
>
> A google search on the phrase gives this page
> http://64.233.183.104/search?q=3Dcache:p5MmvIoKn78J:www.ravenstreet.org/T=
irloch/ein%2520neu%2520kuchbuch%2520-%2520transcribed%2520pages......pdf+vo=
m+drei+und+achtzigerlei&hl=3Dno&ct=3Dclnk&cd=3D1&gl=3Dno&client=3Dfirefox-a
> In the document 83 foods/dishes are listed as being made from the ox,
> which would probably mean that Trachten in this context isn't clothes
> since 83 is given as the combined number of Spesien and Trachten.
>
> Ingrid
>
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--=20
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, Katy Bishop wrote:
> But according to my Mum it is 43 food _and/or_ clothing items.

Oh, is it? I'm sorry, I didn't realize she'd seen the whole text; I must
have read some of them wrong then. I'll certainly take the reading of a
native speaker over my own any day. :) Although some of the foods do
strike me as odd when used in clothing. If it really is clothing as well
I'm incredibly curious what the items that are made from salmon are
("Vom Lachs seind sibenzenerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen") - any
chance of a translation from a native speaker?

I had thought that the poster who translated Trachten as dishes/servings
(from Tragen, sorry I don't remember the poster's name) was right, but
if there's any chance of salmon clothes I'm all for it.  :D

Ingrid

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hilarious greeting cards using famous paintings 
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Thank you for the link.  The calendar is going to make great Christmas stocking gifts for a few friends.
S
--------- Original Message -----------
> Message: 5 
> Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2007 00:09:05 -0400 
> From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> 
> Subject: [h-cost] Hilarious greeting cards using famous paintings 
> Hello, gang. 
> I was at my local bookstore this afternoon to buy a new journal and came 
> across the funniest greeting cards!  I had to buy a few, just for future 
> use. 
>  Here's their webpage: 
> http://www.quipscards.com/ 
>  Enjoy, 
> Michelle 
> ------------------------------ 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hilarious greeting cards using famous paintings
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Status: RO

 
 

you can get some of these personalised through moonpig.com
 
had nige in stitches the other night, esp the one of the guy in  trunkhosen  
:o)





   
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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
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Hi all! I've searched the archives but haven't found what I'm looking
for. My group (focused on Norway, 1299-1319) is planning to make an
embroidered standard/banner, as historically accurate as possible in
design, techniques and materials. The details aren't clear yet, but the
project may involve couching gold thread onto silk. So here's the thing:
most sources I've been able to find only refer to "gold thread" and
don't go into whether this is bullion/purl (and if so what kind), or
solid drawn thread, or what. Does anyone have any sources for the
period, give or take a few years? Preferably for Northern Europe, but
Europe in general is good.

Thanks in advance!
Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval hose query
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 17:11:58 -0700
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Status: RO

I would definitely not write it off as artistic license.  There are too =
many examples of footless, and strapped hose to do that.  One of the =
first places I looked, Davenport, page 104 speaks of breeches being tied =
at the ankle or strapped under the foot.  I am only conjecturing, but I =
suspect it was as much a way of keeping the hose "down" rather than =
covering the foot.  Much like modern dancers dance with toeless and =
heelless tights.  Davenport shows a number of pictures and statuary =
sporting the various types.  You have my curiosity up....I am not sure =
I'll be much help but am rather curious myself!

Sg


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Pauline Loven<mailto:pauline@thelovens.co.uk>=20
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 11:15 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Medieval hose query


  Hi All
  =20
  I have just subscribed. A friend posted on my behalf and there have =
been a
  couple of responses already, but just to clarify:
  =20
  I am costuming a film based on the images in the 14th c. Luttrell =
Psalter
  which was made for an estate in my home county of Lincolnshire. The =
film is
  for the museum of Lincoln (The Collection).
  =20
  I am puzzled by the depiction of hose being worn without shoes or =
boots. Can
  anyone direct me to any relevant sources (paintings, archival or
  archaeological evidence, articles etc) which could explain this =
practice. I
  am reluctant to dismiss the images as artistic licence' without =
thorough
  research.
  =20
  many thanks
  =20
  Pauline

  No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Agreed-- especially since some of the other Speisen und Trachten combos =
refer to fowl and fish!

Astrida


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Ingrid G. Storr=F8
Sent: Mon 7/2/2007 2:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
=20
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>  >> The phrase:
> >> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
> machen"
>
>
> Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
> context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
> case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could =
then
> literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the =
ox.
> Hard to tell without more of the original quote...

A google search on the phrase gives this page
http://64.233.183.104/search?q=3Dcache:p5MmvIoKn78J:www.ravenstreet.org/T=
irloch/ein%2520neu%2520kuchbuch%2520-%2520transcribed%2520pages......pdf+=
vom+drei+und+achtzigerlei&hl=3Dno&ct=3Dclnk&cd=3D1&gl=3Dno&client=3Dfiref=
ox-a
In the document 83 foods/dishes are listed as being made from the ox,
which would probably mean that Trachten in this context isn't clothes
since 83 is given as the combined number of Spesien and Trachten.

Ingrid

--=20
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Just realized teh whole text was there-- noway does Trachten refer to =
clothes, all 83 uses for cow are listed and none of them are anything =
other than recipes. Also, another candidate for "Trachend un Speisen" =
are frogs, and I just don't buy it that there's anything frog-related in =
clothing!

I looked it up in my olkd Cassel's and an alternate meaning for Tracht =
is "yield", which makes much more sense in this case.

Astrida

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Ingrid G. Storr=F8
Sent: Mon 7/2/2007 2:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
=20
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>  >> The phrase:
> >> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
> machen"
>
>
> Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
> context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
> case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could =
then
> literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the =
ox.
> Hard to tell without more of the original quote...

A google search on the phrase gives this page
http://64.233.183.104/search?q=3Dcache:p5MmvIoKn78J:www.ravenstreet.org/T=
irloch/ein%2520neu%2520kuchbuch%2520-%2520transcribed%2520pages......pdf+=
vom+drei+und+achtzigerlei&hl=3Dno&ct=3Dclnk&cd=3D1&gl=3Dno&client=3Dfiref=
ox-a
In the document 83 foods/dishes are listed as being made from the ox,
which would probably mean that Trachten in this context isn't clothes
since 83 is given as the combined number of Spesien and Trachten.

Ingrid

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  2 22:41:45 2007
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 21:41:19 -0500
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Status: RO

Will this help?
http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249

http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php

http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html

-----Original Message-----
Hi all! I've searched the archives but haven't found what I'm looking
for. My group (focused on Norway, 1299-1319) is planning to make an
embroidered standard/banner, as historically accurate as possible in
design, techniques and materials. The details aren't clear yet, but the
project may involve couching gold thread onto silk. So here's the thing:
most sources I've been able to find only refer to "gold thread" and
don't go into whether this is bullion/purl (and if so what kind), or
solid drawn thread, or what. Does anyone have any sources for the
period, give or take a few years? Preferably for Northern Europe, but
Europe in general is good.

Thanks in advance!
Ingrid


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm 
drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and 
it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much, 
but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing 
long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out 
of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different 
from today?

Sylrog

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
  What else was popular that is different from
> today?

Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to the  
navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural" breasts  
slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or light blue  
colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats to just below the  
knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable

If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through them. It  
might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors, shape and  
shoes in fashion atm.

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Status: RO

Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?

Kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions


> On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 
> wrote:
>  What else was popular that is different from
>> today?
>
> Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to the 
> navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural" breasts 
> slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or light blue 
> colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats to just below the 
> knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable
>
> If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through them. It 
> might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors, shape and 
> shoes in fashion atm.
>
> Gunvor
>
> -- 
> "Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
> Anders (nesten 4 år)
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

With thumbs poking thru a cut in the "cuff".

Laurie


>From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
>Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:17:11 -0400
>
>Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?
>
>Kate
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
>
>
>>On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 
>>wrote:
>>  What else was popular that is different from
>>>today?
>>

_________________________________________________________________
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 10:25:40 -0400
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Status: RO

I think it depends on where you were and what age group, but in South  
Carolina, college-aged girls were wearing sleeves that belled or  
ruffled out at the end, generally from a seam at the elbow or the  
forearm, or less often at the wrist.  I concur that finding some  
magazines from that time would really help.

Melanie Schuessler



On Jul 3, 2007, at 9:48 AM, zelda crusher wrote:

> With thumbs poking thru a cut in the "cuff".
>
> Laurie
>
>
>> From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
>> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:17:11 -0400
>>
>> Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?
>>
>> Kate
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
>>
>>
>>> On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad  
>>> <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
>>>  What else was popular that is different from
>>>> today?
>>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en- 
> us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Iranian costuming book
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Status: RO

Hi all,

I saw this and thought folks on this list might be interested, especially those interested in Iran/Persian clothing.

Title: Splendori dall'Iran : Gioelli e costumi per 5000 anni di storia
Author: Balbi de Caro, Silvana
Price: $61.95 
ISBN: 9788880168034 
Description: Roma: De Luca, 2007. 30cm., pbk., 118pp. illus., most in color. Italian text. Exhibition held at Museo Nazionale d'Arte Orientale "Giuseppe Tucci", Roma. 
available at www.artbooks.com  (not associated, just a happy customer)

Colleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Beverly Azizi <bazizi@uci.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 22:39:37 -0600
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>

Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
from today?

Sylrog

		I think encapsulated in that time period we have waistlines on 
pants dipping lower and lower for women and wasn't there  a shift in 
in the length of tops i.e. getting shorter and shorter.  Also the 
advent of the flood pant or cropped pant after pants being extra long 
for a while?  Also the last few years has seen a resurgence of the 
gored skirt (a wink back to medieval times) .  You might want to try 
googling some of the designers collections from 5 years ago to see 
what they show. Good Luck Sylvia

Beverly

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Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 10:58:51 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

I remember evening gowns, and red carpet gowns, start to move from that  
clinging 1930's type of shift towards a more structured look. It was still a  
close fitting shift, but in crisper fabrics with more flair at the hem. You see  
more trains and fish-tails. And decoration starts to move from applied stuff,  
like beading, to self fabric stuff, like ruffles and pleats. A trend that 
still  lingers.



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Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 17:18:09 +0200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

I remember pants that were a bit below the navel=20
and fell down vertically in the back, with wide=20
hems. Heels were less delicate than today, in=20
2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared=20
to be very thick seen from the back and thin from=20
the side - I found them quite revolutionary. One=20
extremely fashionable colleague of mine wore=20
kitten heels that year, but I think they were=20
available in "regular" shoe stores earliest 2004=20
or so (that=B4s when I bought some).
2002 was also the first year I remember ruffled=20
pirate shirts and chemises, worn with pumps and=20
cargo pants with lots of pockets and straps with=20
D-rings. It looked like the wearer wanted to fix=20
camping equipment to her pants. ;-) Mixing=20
different clothing styles was a real art, like=20
hooded training sweaters with dress pants...
That=B4s what I remember from Hamburg, Germany.

Hanna


At 06:39 03.07.2007, you wrote:
>Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the=20
>years 2002-4?  I'm drawing pretty much of a=20
>blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and it=20
>goes back in time 5 years.  I know things=20
>haven't changed that much, but there have been=20
>some changes.  For instance, I do remember=20
>wearing long straight and slightly a-lined=20
>skirts, alot of the latter made out of knits.  I=20
>still have them. What else was popular that is different
>>from today?
>
>Sylrog
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:36:05 -0600
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Status: RO

Oh yeah.  You reminded me of the sweaters that flared out at the=20
wrists.  I still have one, but I hate not being able to roll up the=20
sleeves when washing dishes.

On Jul 3, 2007, at 7:17 AM, Kate Pinner wrote:

> Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?
>
> Kate
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
>
>
>> On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>=20=

>> wrote:
>>  What else was popular that is different from
>>> today?
>>
>> Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to=20=

>> the navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural"=20=

>> breasts slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or=20=

>> light blue colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats=20=

>> to just below the knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable
>>
>> If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through=20
>> them. It might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors,=20=

>> shape and shoes in fashion atm.
>>
>> Gunvor
>>
>> --=20
>> "Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA f=E5r du lov"
>> Anders (nesten 4 =E5r)
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

>Subject: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

>Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
>drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
>it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
>but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
>long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
>of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
>from today?

Bell bottom revival, even in business suits.  Hiphuggers & bare bellies.
Messed up hair with gel & pomade...
T-shirts, knit tops & sweaters completely encrusted in beads or
embroidery, especially in Asian shops..
--cin
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Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 15:16:06 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 08:59:49 +1000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

Burda magazine might be helpful if you can find a library with back 
issues. There is an archive at http://www.burdamode.com but it only 
goes back to the start of 2004. To access the archive though you need 
to keep the page in german at the start, select "magazine" from the 
lefthand side which will display items under that cantegory. You want 
the "Archiv von burda Modemagazin" which is next to the picture 
composed of lots of magazine covers.  This will bring up the list of 
all issues that are archived. I've just checked and it looks like 
2004 is archived in german only but the pictures are there as are the 
"Technische Zeichnung" (technical drawings).
The only problem with using burda is that some patterns show up in 
Burda before they do in mass ready to wear. I might be noticing that 
only because I'm living in Australia.

Sharon Nevin





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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

MaggiRos,

I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.

>From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
#4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa 1914

Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
construction makes a self trim ribbon.

Carin's was the only review of this pattern.

There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
own dress of the same time.

Hope some of that helps.

See you in a few weeks,
Lynn

On 7/3/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> MaggiRos,
> That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
> quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.
>
> As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
> something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
> encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
> isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
> in August,
>
> http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
>
> But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
> what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
> perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
> not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
> of you know. :-)
>
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Beverly Azizi wrote:
> Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 22:39:37 -0600
> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>
> Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
> drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
> it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
> but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
> long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
> of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
> from today?
>
> Sylrog
>
> 		I think encapsulated in that time period we have waistlines on
> pants dipping lower and lower for women and wasn't there  a shift in
> in the length of tops i.e. getting shorter and shorter.  Also the
> advent of the flood pant or cropped pant after pants being extra long
> for a while?  Also the last few years has seen a resurgence of the
> gored skirt (a wink back to medieval times) .  You might want to try
> googling some of the designers collections from 5 years ago to see
> what they show. Good Luck Sylvia


Definitely the cropped pants.  

Also straight skirts in business suits with a 1" - 3" ruffle along the bottom, 
and those horrible pumps with a heel that is round in back and cut off 
straight like a slab on the other side.  Yuk.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 19:26:45 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Hanna Zickermann wrote:

[snip]

>Heels were less delicate than today, in
> 2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared
> to be very thick seen from the back and thin from
> the side - I found them quite revolutionary. 

I agree, but I also think they were ugly.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 16:45:32 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

I agree. There were a few years there where it was almost impossible
for me to find attractive (in my eyes) shoes because the heels were
either strange, as those already mentioned, or bent. Remember that
look? Like it was too hot outside and your heel just kind of melted
into a curve? And that style was really expensive! I haven't spoken up
because I didn't like or didn't look good in the styles from 2002-04.
Crop-tops and hip huggers aren't attractive on short/rounds. Neither
are those cropped pants.

LynnD
Still wearing some dress boots from almost 20 years ago that are still
in fashion


On 7/3/07, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Hanna Zickermann wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
> >Heels were less delicate than today, in
> > 2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared
> > to be very thick seen from the back and thin from
> > the side - I found them quite revolutionary.
>
> I agree, but I also think they were ugly.
>
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
> -- George Mabry
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The semi low waistline and the 
handkerchief style overskirt.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

Lynnie, I don't think you're talking about the same
pattern, although I see the pattern number in the
review is the same.  But it's hardly a bodice and
skirt. There's an underdress (gown) cut on the fold of
45" fabric, and the overdress (tunic) cut on the fold
of 60" fabric. The girdle does look like it rides
below the hips, I'll grant you, but that's what
creates such waist as it has. The trim is beaded
ribbon, not self trim, although there is some
self-facing at the neckline. The sleeves just fall
from the shoulder, open along the top. No seaming that
I can see.

Maybe it's been revised since that review? Or maybe
it's more complicated than it looks, Butterick is
notorious for leaving things out.

I may not have been reading the list when the pattern
came out, but it's certainly not complicated. I'm not
in search of a low waist especially--not with my
waist! I just liked the look of the outfit, and the
pieces look adaptable to other things. I think.

Maybe I should just stick to the 16th century.

Maggie 


--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:

> MaggiRos,
> 
> I think we've talked about this pattern once before,
> when it first
> came out, and I remember that it's not very period.
> I looked at the
> pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three
> separate pieces made
> up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make
> a dress.
> 
> >From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
> #4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa
> 1914
> 
> Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
> I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn
> anything complicated in
> years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not
> accurate, as are
> many of the patterns in the Making History series. I
> couldn't find any
> dresses from the period that resembled this when I
> researched it. The
> abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many
> Butterick patterns
> are here in force. Even worse, several of the
> illustrations are
> incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch
> wide fabric for
> the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic
> pattern won't fit
> on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for
> the tunic but.
> you'll have a seam down the front which actually may
> help with fit and
> prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several
> careful fittings
> during construction are a must. Ignore the
> instructions on seaming the
> sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric;
> you're better off using
> French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may
> have to cut the
> sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and
> didn't bother to
> add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic,
> as the pattern
> construction makes a self trim ribbon.
> 
> Carin's was the only review of this pattern.
> 
> There's got to be something better out there, unless
> you're really
> hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's
> high-waisted
> dress of the same period would look great on you.
> Folkware has their
> own dress of the same time.
> 
> Hope some of that helps.
> 
> See you in a few weeks,
> Lynn
> 
> On 7/3/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> > MaggiRos,
> > That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
> 1914.  The W should be
> > quite high, right under the bosom & the shape
> generally columnar.
> >
> > As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
> look lovely in
> > something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
> chiffon over charmeuse? An
> > encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
> lace?
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > CinBarnes@gmail.com
> >
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID:
> <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>  I still have them. What else was popular that is different from 
> today?

Beltlines are still below the navel today, but shirts are coming back 
down. I finally got used to the midriff baring style and last month when 
I went shopping I found all the shirts are about hip length, or longer.

I seem to remember those ruffled and/or patchwork velvet skirts from 
several years back. Only they were never very full. Horrible mint green, 
brown and orange striped poly knit shirts. Babydoll lingerie tops. Thee 
was this whole 'back to the 70's' thing going on, but it was even uglier 
than the first time around. Lots of psychedelic colors like pink and 
green and orange, but too bright, a strange mix of drab and tacky. Lots 
of India-made trim on stuff, around the bottom of jeans, and on jackets. 
All the fabric coming into the stores seemed to have lycra in them.

Necklaces made from fishing line with single pearls or jewels clamped 
every few inches. Very pale lipstick colors, and a return to a natural 
looking face. Glitter or reflective powder in a lot of makeup (and 
suddenly I'm allergic to cosmetics). Huge purses with lots of sequins 
and beads dangling all over them. Long, pointy toed shoes. Shoulder 
length hair.

Men's clothing got very casual. My husband can wear jeans to work, and 
sneakers in a corporate environment. Hair is still short.


After 04, women's hair got really short, and they started styling it so 
it sticks out in a little flip in the bottom. A year or two ago it 
seemed like every young blonde starlet looked the same. And then we 
started getting glitter and sequins on everything, and a lot more silky 
polyester type fabrics.



Dawn
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-) 

MaggiRos

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO


> 
> http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> 
> But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
> what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
> perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
> not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
> of you know. :-)
> 

Oooh, that pattern is on my 'must make' list, too.

No, you don't have to use pale watery colors. Take a look at these 
prints from the period. Some are later than the teens, but you get the 
idea. Rich earth tones, black and red, some bold, contrasting prints. 
And this is the period when Rayon was developed as a silk substitute.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists than 
the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick pattern 
gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914


> MaggiRos,
> That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
> quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.
>
> As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
> something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
> encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
> isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
> in August,
>
> http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
>
> But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
> what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
> perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
> not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
> of you know. :-)
>
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me think of 1920s
styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by Carol Burnett
:~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens for that matter
was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens that you get a
slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt is much more
1916-17.

I have several pictures of evening dresses from the 'teens on my website:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html

I just love the 'teens, so many fun styles, and a different look for
each year of the decade.  I need to find the time to make a new dress
for Newport's ragtime ball this year.

Katy

On 7/3/07, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
> MaggiRos,
>
> I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
> came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
> pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
> up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.
>
> >From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
> #4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa 1914
>
> Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
> I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
> years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
> many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
> dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
> abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
> are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
> incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
> the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
> on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
> you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
> prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
> during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
> sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
> French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
> sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
> add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
> construction makes a self trim ribbon.
>
> Carin's was the only review of this pattern.
>
> There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
> hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
> dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
> own dress of the same time.
>
> Hope some of that helps.
>
> See you in a few weeks,
> Lynn
>
> On 7/3/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> > MaggiRos,
> > That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
> > quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.
> >
> > As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
> > something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
> > encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > CinBarnes@gmail.com
> >
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
> > in August,
> >
> > http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

Maggie,
I have this pattern and have material set aside for it.
It is an early 1920s style, evening dress or can be a summer tea dress. The
girdle top is at waist level.
What I have found so far is that it would that you could make it in a darker
color. I am not sure of what you mean by watery but if you mean flowy, then
pretty much yes. There were some evening gown fabric that were a little
stiff but not really that stiff. Velvets, silks, lace, chiffon, crepe....
What fabric/design(?) you could use for a tea dress.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_474.htm

dresses of the 1920s
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_591.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_255.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4453.htm
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/192x_1.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1924_2.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1929_8.shtml
http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=35224

I plan on adding long sleeves to the gown. trim will be lace and pearls. I
have Simplicity 4947 that is to go with the Butterick pattern for a full
outfit. I do not plan on making the girdle but may make a purse that will go
under the tunic and have a slit in the tunic for easy access.
You do not have to have a 60" wide fabric for your tunic, you can use 45"
and have a seam down the center or cut the pattern so that you will have
"princess" seams and then cover over the seam with beadwork. Think of the
tunic as your canvas and the gown the frame.

De
-----Original Message-----
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

Well, doesn't look like anything I've ever seen from 1914.
 
I designed a "Three Penny Opera" that was set in 1914....to compliment  the 
fox trots and 2 steps in the music...and so I researched that very  year. 
 
The waist was at a high-natural line..kinda like the late 1820s or where  men 
wore their pants in the 1950s...y'know, high but  at the waist. Bodices  
usually had no darts of any kind. The backs would be narrow...almost fitted,  even 
on a shirtwaist... and the fronts would be full, but not baggy like the  
pigeon breasted look of just before in the 1900s. Lots of raglan and dolman  
sleeves with narrow cuffs....V necks and high collars. Skirts were gored  usually 
and slightly flaring stopping at the ankle. Sometimes the  front would be a 
single gore that was straight from the hips down and the  back would be 2 goes 
that flared a bit. Evening things had a layering of  shears effect with beading 
and embroidery, and skirts  were sometimes curiously draped. When the war 
starts, military influences  come into play, with things like large pockets with 
pleats and flaps, lots of  buttons, and high boots, that lace up the front...a 
great look with a wool  suit.
 
Hats could be wide and flat but not as large as in  the period before. The 
brim would often be oval with the long sides over the  shoulders. And you see 
less stuff on them. Also a whole range of fez-like  and novelty shapes of 
smaller hats appear. Hair is not short yet but often put  up. Crimping is popular.
 
It's a transitional period going out of La Belle Epoch into the 20's. You  
see all kinds of half-and-half combinations.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 20:29:40 -0600
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Status: RO


On Jul 3, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dawn wrote:

>
>
> After 04, women's hair got really short, and they started styling it 
> so it sticks out in a little flip in the bottom. A year or two ago it 
> seemed like every young blonde starlet looked the same. And then we 
> started getting glitter and sequins on everything, and a lot more 
> silky polyester type fabrics.

That's how I wear my hair now.  That style has been in for a number of 
years.  I think it was popularized by Meg Ryan.  I keep wondering when 
it will go out.  Maybe it already has for you coastal people, but here 
in Colorado it is still in and since it looks really good on me, I 
don't mind.

Sylrog
>

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

OK, 20s, I can go with that. Colors? Fabric
suggestions? Websites that don't require a
subscription? I'm not committed to perfect accuracy
but I'd like to be in the ballpark for whatever date
the dress is trying to be, and make a pretty, wearable
dress.

MaggiRos



--- Gilbert <tgilbert737@roadrunner.com> wrote:

> I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty
> Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
> 1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely
> have higher waists than 
> the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian.
> The Butterick pattern 
> gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.
> 
> Marjorie
> 
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set
> Georgian England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> 
> 
> > MaggiRos,
> > That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
> 1914.  The W should be
> > quite high, right under the bosom & the shape
> generally columnar.
> >
> > As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
> look lovely in
> > something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
> chiffon over charmeuse? An
> > encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
> lace?
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > CinBarnes@gmail.com
> >
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID:
> <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 19:35:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Oh yes, I was looking at this site this morning.
wonderful stuff. Thanks.

MaggiRos

--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me
> think of 1920s
> styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by
> Carol Burnett
> :~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens
> for that matter
> was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens
> that you get a
> slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt
> is much more
> 1916-17.
> 
> I have several pictures of evening dresses from the
> 'teens on my website:
> 
> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'll adjust my searches. Thanks Penny!
--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

> This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The
> semi low waistline and the 
> handkerchief style overskirt.

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

MaggiRos,

I made a dress similar to this pattern in a shimmery dark red.  I was going 
to a Red Cross Ball in August, so I wanted it to look period with a modern 
twist.  In our university's collection we have a black lace dress similar to 
this one.

Pastels were worn in the summer in the early 1920s.

We have some in the collection from the 1910s in nice peach shades.  One has 
green piping and is very lovely.  We have another dress of ecru netting with 
powder blue medallions.  I would love to make a reproduction of that dress 
one day.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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	<D0CE4A40D86D4B2896E4EF968263BDAF@Gilbert>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

For the general population, the waistline was at its normal placement in 
1910-1911.  By 1912-1914, the empire waist was fashionable.  From 1910 to 
1914 the waistline gradually moved up.  In 1912, I have Ladies' Home Journal 
with the mid waistline.  Delineator magazine shows the empire waist.

I tell my students that during World War 1 ladies' fashion was kinda like 
the 1980s; a little bit of everything went on. It was fashion design gone 
wild.  I personally like the WW1 fashions...very creative!  I have 1916-1918 
fashion plates of some of the same fashions that were worn in the 1980s.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
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www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gilbert" <tgilbert737@roadrunner.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914


> I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
> 1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists 
> than the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick 
> pattern gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.
>
> Marjorie
>
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
>
>
>> MaggiRos,
>> That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
>> quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.
>>
>> As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
>> something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
>> encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
>> --cin
>> Cynthia Barnes
>> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>>
>> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Message-ID: <434233.48132.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
>> isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
>> historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
>> in August,
>>
>> http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
>>
>> But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
>> what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
>> perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
>> not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
>> of you know. :-)
>>
>> MaggiRos
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Status: RO

Hanna wrote:
>2002 was also the first year I remember ruffled 
>pirate shirts and chemises, worn with pumps and 
>cargo pants with lots of pockets and straps with 
>D-rings. It looked like the wearer wanted to fix 
>camping equipment to her pants. ;-) 

I went on a birdwatching holiday to the Orkney Islands in 2003 and
wanted a pair of combat trousers (hardwearing and with plenty of
pockets). They were in fashion at the time, but the fashion ones were
all made of flimsy material and often embroidered or beaded, so I ended
up getting a "proper" pair from an army-surplus shop.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, otsisto wrote:
> Will this help?
> http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php
> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html

Thank you! The book looks scrumptious. :) Do you have it? I'm wondering
if there's enough info relevant for my period to warrant the cost of
buying it for this particular project.

Ingrid

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 05:28:35 -0500
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Status: RO

No I do not have it but it was recommended to me when I was looking into
goldwork for a gown. Other things have come up so that I have not gotten
around to ordering the book.

De

-----Original Message-----
On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, otsisto wrote:
> Will this help?
> http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php
> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html

Thank you! The book looks scrumptious. :) Do you have it? I'm wondering
if there's enough info relevant for my period to warrant the cost of
buying it for this particular project.

Ingrid



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Subject: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

  I am making this dress for a customer, before I finally hang up my 
scissors, and wondered if there are any other images I can use for 
reference. Everything except the hanging sleeves is cut out, but the 
patterns I am using for them are a bit boring. However, I don't want 
to use the scallops in the original, so any other inspiration would be helpful.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
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Status: RO

Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous book, lots
of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type of work.
Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback. 

Arlys

On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 11:11:03 +0200 (CEST)
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@techarea.net> writes:
> On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, otsisto wrote:
> > Will this help?
> > http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249
> > 
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php
> > http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html
> 
> Thank you! The book looks scrumptious. :) Do you have it? I'm 
> wondering
> if there's enough info relevant for my period to warrant the cost of
> buying it for this particular project.
> 
> Ingrid
> 
> -- 
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On Wed, 4 Jul 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous book, lots
> of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type of work.
> Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
> edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback.

That sounds great! I found it at $18.21 from Amazon, which is cheap
enough to buy just to check it out anyway. My copy should be on its way
soon, yay! Thanks. :)

Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
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Status: RO

Have fun! I had to bring a towel. ;)

Arlys

On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 17:07:41 +0200 (CEST)
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@techarea.net> writes:
> On Wed, 4 Jul 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
> > Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous 
> book, lots
> > of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type 
> of work.
> > Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
> > edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback.
> 
> That sounds great! I found it at $18.21 from Amazon, which is cheap
> enough to buy just to check it out anyway. My copy should be on its 
> way
> soon, yay! Thanks. :)
> 
> Ingrid
> 
> -- 
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

MaggiRos,=0A=0APersonally, I envision this one in black chiffon with both j=
et and iridescent black beading, both tube and round beads. Go for a scroll=
ing pattern for the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the edge o=
f the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a thing line of them at the hem t=
o frame it. Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh to get maxi=
mum light, as the black on black might be lost. Same with the bodice, put t=
he most work into where the light will catch it - across the chest and cent=
re front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where it will take the weight. You=
 might even find a patterned chiffon out there to get you started.=0A=0AKat=
hy=0A=0AOK, 20s, I can go with that. Colors? Fabric=0Asuggestions? Websites=
 that don't require a=0Asubscription? I'm not committed to perfect accuracy=
=0Abut I'd like to be in the ballpark for whatever date=0Athe dress is tryi=
ng to be, and make a pretty, wearable=0Adress.=0A=0AMaggiRos =0AErmine, a l=
ion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed,=
 seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a l=
ions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have b=
een.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the begi=
nning of knowledge. =0AWhere the spirit does not work with the hand, there =
is no art.=0A-Leonardo da Vinci=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam=
. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new=
 Yahoo! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCECMJDAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 10:04:36 -0400
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Status: RO

FYI to anyone interested-  I just pre-ordered the book (available Aug. 1)
from Amazon for $16.47.  

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread

No I do not have it but it was recommended to me when I was looking into
goldwork for a gown. Other things have come up so that I have not gotten
around to ordering the book.

De

-----Original Message-----
On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, otsisto wrote:
> Will this help?
> http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php
> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html

Thank you! The book looks scrumptious. :) Do you have it? I'm wondering
if there's enough info relevant for my period to warrant the cost of
buying it for this particular project.

Ingrid



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

Bohemia
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1610_2.shtml
spain
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1606_1.shtml
english
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/161x_6.shtml
baveria
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1613_1.shtml
france
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/161x_4.shtml
denmark
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1623_3.shtml
german
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1623_1.shtml

-----Original Message-----
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPAEDEJDAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO

At 21:21 04/07/2007, you wrote:
>Bohemia
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1610_2.shtml
>spain
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1606_1.shtml
>english
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/161x_6.shtml
>baveria
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1613_1.shtml
>france
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/161x_4.shtml
>denmark
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1623_3.shtml
>german
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1623_1.shtml
>
>-----Original Message-----
>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg
Thank you - there a couple there I had not come across before - I 
just wish they'd turn round do I could see the hanging sleeves better!!

Suzi

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 20:19:31 -0500
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Status: RO

more pictures
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Various_8.htm
perhaps the Margo Anderson pattern might help as the hanging sleeve is a
carry over from the late 1500s.
De


>-----Original Message-----
>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg
Thank you - there a couple there I had not come across before - I
just wish they'd turn round do I could see the hanging sleeves better!!

Suzi


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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Status: RO

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/DianaCecil.jpg

I've seen plenty of slashing on sleeves, but this is the first picture 
I've ever seen with slashing on the skirt!
Michelle
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

Given how odd it looks, I'm not surprised!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Michelle Plumb
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?


http://www.tudor-portraits.com/DianaCecil.jpg

I've seen plenty of slashing on sleeves, but this is the first picture 
I've ever seen with slashing on the skirt!
Michelle
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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 22:05:34 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?
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Status: RO

In Arnold's POF there is at least one of the loose gowns from the
later period that has slashing on the whole of the gown, and by the
way the pattern/slashings are she thought that the gown had been
remade to the current state.

alex

On 7/4/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> Given how odd it looks, I'm not surprised!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Michelle Plumb
> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?
>
>
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/DianaCecil.jpg
>
> I've seen plenty of slashing on sleeves, but this is the first picture
> I've ever seen with slashing on the skirt!
> Michelle
> __
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Status: RO

Here's the earliest example I've seen of a slashed skirt, since the subject's come up! :-)

Venice, Giacomo Franco, 1609: Dress of Dogaressa and Ladies [from Habiti d'huomeni et donne venetiane]. Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Yale University.  http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/FrancoF1.jpg

 
Bella
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slashed skirts (was 1620 dress images?) a new question
	about th is...
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Status: RO

After looking at the drawings, I began to wonder, were the sleeves possibly  made seperate from the bodice and perhaps pinned onto the chemise,level with the bodice top , to look like they were connected? I'd like to try an Italian but so many things about them I find confusing,
  melody

Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
  Here's the earliest example I've seen of a slashed skirt, since the subject's come up! :-)

Venice, Giacomo Franco, 1609: Dress of Dogaressa and Ladies [from Habiti d'huomeni et donne venetiane]. Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Yale University. http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/FrancoF1.jpg


Bella
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Status: RO

At 02:19 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>more pictures
>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Various_8.htm
>perhaps the Margo Anderson pattern might help as the hanging sleeve is a
>carry over from the late 1500s.
>De

Thanks - I had all these that are relevant. I don't have time to get 
patterns - I have "The Tudor Tailor" and Hunnisett - I just wanted 
something different!

Suzi


> >-----Original Message-----
> >http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg
>Thank you - there a couple there I had not come across before - I
>just wish they'd turn round do I could see the hanging sleeves better!!
>
>Suzi
>
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered corset
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Status: RO

In the book 18th century embroidery teckniques, there is a corset wich is 
very elaborate embroidered all over. It has shoulderstraps and laces center 
back.
I am very keen in making a similar one, having in mind to mix it with a pink 
taffeta i baught in Rome. I was thinking about making the corset in ivory 
taffeta, and maybe make some of the flowers in the pink collour of the 
taffeta. Then i could make a petticoat to go with it in the pink taffeta.
Any suggestions about how this corset would have ben worn?  Perhaps it could 
be used very informal for a picknic, wearing a nice chemise with cotton 
laces, and make the skirt angle lenght with small pocket hoops? Maybe i 
could piece the bottom of the skirt with same ivory taffeta, and embroider a 
border round the hem?
How do you think the corset was worn?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 04:39:15 -0500
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Status: RO

Actually I was thinking you could have a look online at the pattern.
The site doesn't allow you to go directly to the pattern so,
http://www.margospatterns.com/
You want the Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe (click on it) Then scroll down to
the Eight sleeve styles to have a rough idea of the long sleeve.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks - I had all these that are relevant. I don't have time to get
patterns - I have "The Tudor Tailor" and Hunnisett - I just wanted
something different!

Suzi


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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: Was: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?; Now: Leaving the business?
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 06:14:43 -0400
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Status: RO

Wait a second!  

Aside from all the interesting suggestions that people have made about
sleeves, what's this about hanging up your scissors?  Are you getting out of
the historical costuming business?  (I am sorry if you are - I have always
admired your work!)  If so, what is that made you decide to do so?  And to
the rest of the group, what is it you really dislike about costuming for pay
or as a living?

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: July 04, 2007 7:22 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?

  I am making this dress for a customer, before I finally hang up my 
scissors, and wondered if there are any other images I can use for 
reference. Everything except the hanging sleeves is cut out, but the 
patterns I am using for them are a bit boring. However, I don't want 
to use the scallops in the original, so any other inspiration would be
helpful.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Was: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?; Now: Leaving the
  business?
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Status: RO

At 11:14 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>Wait a second!
>
>Aside from all the interesting suggestions that people have made about
>sleeves, what's this about hanging up your scissors?  Are you getting out of
>the historical costuming business?  (I am sorry if you are - I have always
>admired your work!)  If so, what is that made you decide to do so?

I am old and tired and want to spend time doing something other than 
working for other people - I have so many projects that I have 
started over the years, that I would really like to finish. I have a 
room full of fabric bought to make family clothes "one day" - and 
come February next year, when I turn 65 that day will happen!! I have 
already slowed down this year, only making 3 or four interesting 
costumes, plus of course 5 outfits, including bride and bridesmaid, 
for the family wedding. I will take on something if it interests me, 
but am fed up of late nights and long working weeks - my own fault as 
I am useless at starting anything until the last minute!

Thanks for the compliment, by the way.

>And to
>the rest of the group, what is it you really dislike about costuming for pay
>or as a living?

I really, really dislike machining! I love all the customer liaison, 
designing and cutting the pattern, fitting the outfit, and all the 
hand finishing, but that bloomin' machine just bugs me! 
Unfortunately, the girl or two I had hoped would do some of that work 
for me, so I could continue on a smaller scale, wasn't as keen as she 
had seemed, so yes, I will be retiring from sewing for others - and I 
am really looking forward to it. My lectures, and occasional 
articles, and research and volunteering at the Museum of London  will 
continue as long as people ask me!

Sorry - a longer answer than I planned!

Suzi

>Jennifer
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
>Sent: July 04, 2007 7:22 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?
>
>   I am making this dress for a customer, before I finally hang up my
>scissors, and wondered if there are any other images I can use for
>reference. Everything except the hanging sleeves is cut out, but the
>patterns I am using for them are a bit boring. However, I don't want
>to use the scallops in the original, so any other inspiration would be
>helpful.
>
>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/1600dress_9.jpg
>
>Suzi
>
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Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:09:38 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

At 10:39 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>Actually I was thinking you could have a look online at the pattern.
>The site doesn't allow you to go directly to the pattern so,
>http://www.margospatterns.com/
>You want the Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe (click on it) Then scroll down to
>the Eight sleeve styles to have a rough idea of the long sleeve.

Thanks, but I have patterns for sleeves like those, from Hunnisett, 
and have actually made long sleeves like that for another garment.

http://tinyurl.com/2gmgoq

This is my current favourite - I like the split at the bottom edge.

Suzi



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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 02:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slashed skirts (was 1620 dress images?) a new question
	about th is...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Anything is possible Melody! There are no extant Venetian gowns of the 16th century to look at, as far as I'm aware, so anything that works to get the bodice/sleeves to look like that is good, in my opinion. I love to see how people deal with design issues, and non-existant shoulder straps is an idea that I've heard put forward before! :-)

 
Bella




----- Original Message ----
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, 5 July, 2007 3:40:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slashed skirts (was 1620 dress images?) a new question about th is...


 http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/FrancoF1.jpg
After looking at the drawings, I began to wonder, were the sleeves possibly  made seperate from the bodice and perhaps pinned onto the chemise,level with the bodice top , to look like they were connected? I'd like to try an Italian but so many things about them I find confusing,

melody


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered corset
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Status: RO

At 08:58 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>In the book 18th century embroidery teckniques, there is a corset 
>wich is very elaborate embroidered all over. It has shoulderstraps 
>and laces center back.
>I am very keen in making a similar one, having in mind to mix it 
>with a pink taffeta i baught in Rome. I was thinking about making 
>the corset in ivory taffeta, and maybe make some of the flowers in 
>the pink collour of the taffeta. Then i could make a petticoat to go 
>with it in the pink taffeta.
>Any suggestions about how this corset would have ben worn?  Perhaps 
>it could be used very informal for a picknic, wearing a nice chemise 
>with cotton laces, and make the skirt angle lenght with small pocket 
>hoops? Maybe i could piece the bottom of the skirt with same ivory 
>taffeta, and embroider a border round the hem?
>How do you think the corset was worn?
>
>Bjarne
I don't think this is a corset/stays for wearing "under" clothes. I 
have seen a very similar one at the Museum of London, which is 
considered to be a "bodice". It has the same tabs which are not 
embroidered, and are for wearing under the skirt, while the point 
goes over. There is one in the museum at Bath which has matching 
sleeves - this is red and white, if I remember right. There are 
paintings of Danish queens, who have similar bodices and very lacy 
sleeves,with the frills facing both down and up, which indicates 
court dress. These can be found in Ellen Andersen's book on 18th 
century clothing.

Suzi

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Status: RO

Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous book,
lots
of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type of
work.
Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback. 

Arlys
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Saw this recently at our local Half-Price books in trade paper format,
prices was $12 or $14.

Catherine


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Status: RO

If you ever get a chance to look at Roy Strong. The English Icon: =
Elizabethan and Jacobean Portraiture. London: The Paul Meloon Foundation =
for British Art, Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1969.    There is set of =
portraits of two women, clearly in the same dress, which is slashed so =
heavily, it looks almost looks like rags!  It looks very strange!

Saragrace
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Sharon Collier<mailto:sharon@collierfam.com>=20
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 7:36 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?


  Given how odd it looks, I'm not surprised!

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slashed Skirts
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Status: RO

At 16:51 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>If you ever get a chance to look at Roy Strong. The English Icon: 
>Elizabethan and Jacobean Portraiture. London: The Paul Meloon 
>Foundation for British Art, Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1969.    There 
>is set of portraits of two women, clearly in the same dress, which 
>is slashed so heavily, it looks almost looks like rags!  It looks very strange!
>
>Saragrace

These two ladies are sisters - the portraits used to be on show as 
part of the Iveagh Bequest at the Ranger's House in Greenwich. I 
don't know where the collection is currently displayed, if at all. 
The only differences in the paintings seem to be the lace on the 
ruffs and cuffs, and I think on the handkerchiefs. Legend has it that 
the dresses were bridesmaids' dresses (!) and were "conspicuous 
consumption" clothes - they could afford to have clothing that was slashed!!

Suzi

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <468C4BC6.3090201@wideopenwest.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 14:36:19 -0400
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Status: RO

This is a fascinating gown.  Do you know where the original picture is?  I
would love a really good copy.

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Michelle Plumb
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/DianaCecil.jpg

I've seen plenty of slashing on sleeves, but this is the first picture 
I've ever seen with slashing on the skirt!
Michelle

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Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO


I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing off 
the third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum again 
and showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the back of my 
mind that there is a costume museum there, that I missed a couple of 
years ago. Does anyone know of this - am I right? Details please if so.

Suzi

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<7.0.1.0.2.20070705115429.02820530@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Was: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?; Now: Leaving the  business?
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 14:43:07 -0400
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Status: RO




>I am old and tired 

You are NOT old!!

>want to spend time doing something other than 
>working for other people - I have so many projects that I have 
>started over the years,

This I can relate to.

 
>I will take on something if it interests me, 

That's the best way to do projects.

>I am useless at starting anything until the last minute!

Been there, too :(

>My lectures, and occasional 
>articles, and research and volunteering at the Museum of London  will 
>continue as long as people ask me!

That will keep you busy.  Don't forget visiting with friends!

Anne

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Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 19:50:17 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

At 19:36 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>This is a fascinating gown.  Do you know where the original picture is?  I
>would love a really good copy.

This is now at Kenwood House, apparently, in North London. It was 
formerly at the Ranger's House in Blackheath, and I thought was part 
of the Iveagh Bequest. However, I understand it is actually part of 
the Suffolk  Collection of mostly Jacobean portraits.

Suzi 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

Dont recall the details, but its called Museo de Traje.

Wished i could go with you.
Rome was so borring this year, my 3rd visit, and i thoaght there would be so 
many other things to see, but when you have seen most of the things there, 
its borring to see it again.
In Lisboa they have also a Museo de Traje, wich also is very nice, but 
Lisboa is far from Madrid.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 8:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?


>
> I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing off the 
> third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum again and 
> showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the back of my mind 
> that there is a costume museum there, that I missed a couple of years ago. 
> Does anyone know of this - am I right? Details please if so.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

I have seen it before, and i still think its overdone, and if you really 
want my oppinion, i dont like the slashing at all, what a waist of 
beautifull brocade...............
Sorry :-(
I know it was very fashionable.........still

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?


> This is a fascinating gown.  Do you know where the original picture is?  I
> would love a really good copy.
>
> Anne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Michelle Plumb
> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620 dress images?
>
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/DianaCecil.jpg
>
> I've seen plenty of slashing on sleeves, but this is the first picture
> I've ever seen with slashing on the skirt!
> Michelle
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.0/886 - Release Date: 7/4/2007
> 1:40 PM
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 20:11:59 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

At 19:50 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>Dont recall the details, but its called Museo de Traje.
>
>Wished i could go with you.
>Rome was so borring this year, my 3rd visit, and i thoaght there 
>would be so many other things to see, but when you have seen most of 
>the things there, its borring to see it again.
>In Lisboa they have also a Museo de Traje, wich also is very nice, 
>but Lisboa is far from Madrid.
>
>Bjarne
>>
>>I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing 
>>off the third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum 
>>again and showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the 
>>back of my mind that there is a costume museum there, that I missed 
>>a couple of years ago. Does anyone know of this - am I right? 
>>Details please if so.

Thank you - I have all the details now from the website - Museo del 
Traje - and although it is quite some distance from where we will be 
staying, I think a little trip might be arranged.....................

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

And you are in the UK, so they may not be as exciting for you, but I  enjoyed 
the two stores that specialize in church equipment, including vestments,  and 
a store that sells mostly flamenco costumes, including a wall of roses in  
every color you can think of (they do have other costumes, too).
 
Didn't make the costume museum on my last trip, but it is  definitely on my 
list if and when I go back.
 
Ann Wass  



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

At 20:27 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>And you are in the UK, so they may not be as exciting for you, but I =
 enjoyed
>the two stores that specialize in church equipment, including vestments, =
 and
>a store that sells mostly flamenco costumes, including a wall of roses in
>every color you can think of (they do have other costumes, too).
>
>Didn't make the costume museum on my last trip, but it is  definitely on my
>list if and when I go back.
>
>Ann Wass

Thanks - we have great vestment shops just behind=20
Westminster Abbey if you are ever this way -=20
=A3120.00 per metre plus, and gold thread embroidered - drool!!


The flamenco store sounds fun, but as usual, the=20
trip won't be long enough for everything - and I was only there 2 years ago!

Suzi=20

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 13:05:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
terrific in black. ;-)

Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr

Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green
for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or maybe
the other way around. 

Thanks for the idea!

MaggiRos

--- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:

> MaggiRos,
> 
> Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
> with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
> tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
> the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
> edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
> thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
> Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
> to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
> lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
> where the light will catch it - across the chest and
> centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
> it will take the weight. You might even find a
> patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
> 
> Kathy
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO

Greetings all,

I am looking for hi-rez images of the extant arming coats of the  
Black Prince and of Charles of Blois, and of the Effigy of the Black  
prince in Canterbury Cathedral.  This is so I can make line drawing  
illustrations for a class I am teaching later this summer.  I've  
found several low-rez versions on the web, but am hoping you know of  
better images. Thank you!

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:34:36 -0500
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Status: RO

Nice.
Someone may have already suggested it but how about some small lace along
the edge as an option? metallic?
Or combine the split and gold lace?
De
whose brain this week seems to be in first gear and slips into neutral
periodically.
-----Original Message-----
Thanks, but I have patterns for sleeves like those, from Hunnisett,
and have actually made long sleeves like that for another garment.

http://tinyurl.com/2gmgoq

This is my current favourite - I like the split at the bottom edge.

Suzi



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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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Status: RO

Nice fabric choice, very summery.  Would work for both evening and a
garden party or tea....

Katy

On 7/5/07, MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
> exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
> isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
> summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
> sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
> terrific in black. ;-)
>
> Something like this:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr
>
> Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green
> for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or maybe
> the other way around.
>
> Thanks for the idea!
>
> MaggiRos
>
> --- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
> > MaggiRos,
> >
> > Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
> > with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
> > tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
> > the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
> > edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
> > thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
> > Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
> > to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
> > lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
> > where the light will catch it - across the chest and
> > centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
> > it will take the weight. You might even find a
> > patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
> >
> > Kathy
> >
>
> ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
>      Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:49:12 -0500
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Status: RO

How about making the tunic out of lace and add a few pearls, pink, green and
clear beads to spots.

De

-----Original Message-----
Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
terrific in black. ;-)

Something like this:
http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr

Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green for the tunic, if I
can find the right color. Or maybe the other way around.

Thanks for the idea!

MaggiRos

--- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:

> MaggiRos,
>
> Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
> with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
> tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
> the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
> edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
> thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
> Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
> to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
> lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
> where the light will catch it - across the chest and
> centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
> it will take the weight. You might even find a
> patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
>
> Kathy
>

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 18:18:26 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
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In a message dated 7/5/2007 4:49:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

How  about making the tunic out of lace and add a few pearls, pink, green  and
clear beads to spots.



**************
 
And of course they make the most opulent already embroidered / beaded  / 
beribboned fabrics in a host of colors. They are expensive, but when the  pattern 
and cutting and form are so simple, you need a great fabric to make  is 
luxurious.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for hi-rez images
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Status: RO

How Hi-res do you want? I don't know of any on the web, but I have 
some pretty large scans from various books. The Charles is 3 MB with 
1-2 MB details.

Beth

At 03:49 PM 7/5/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 13:17:29 -0700
>From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>I am looking for hi-rez images of the extant arming coats of the
>Black Prince and of Charles of Blois, and of the Effigy of the Black
>prince in Canterbury Cathedral.  This is so I can make line drawing
>illustrations for a class I am teaching later this summer.  I've
>found several low-rez versions on the web, but am hoping you know of
>better images. Thank you!
>
>Althea Turner
>althea@alfalfapress.com

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>, h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

Museo del Trajes
http://museodeltraje.mcu.es/index.jsp?id=83&ruta=3,16
There's an exhibit in conjunction with the Kyoto Museum of Costume coming
up.  Hope you get to see some of that stuff, too.

-cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing off
the third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum again
and showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the back of my
mind that there is a costume museum there, that I missed a couple of
years ago. Does anyone know of this - am I right? Details please if so.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620  dress images?
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Status: RO

At 21:34 05/07/2007, you wrote:
>Nice.
>Someone may have already suggested it but how about some small lace along
>the edge as an option? metallic?
>Or combine the split and gold lace?

I have some gold/crimson/blue brocade left from the underskirt which 
will edge inside the sleeve, plus whatever is left of the 50 metres 
of gold braid/lace which I am sewing to the crimson/blue shot taffeta 
of the skirt, bodice and sleeves - this will shine, you can be sure of that!!

>De
>whose brain this week seems to be in first gear and slips into neutral
>periodically.
>-----Original Message-----
>Thanks, but I have patterns for sleeves like those, from Hunnisett,
>and have actually made long sleeves like that for another garment.
>
>http://tinyurl.com/2gmgoq
>
>This is my current favourite - I like the split at the bottom edge.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>
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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:46:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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That would be terrific, but again, there's a time
constraint. The black stuff I just ordered, though
will probably lend itself to some accent beads.

Thanks for the inspiration!

MaggiRos the Elizabethan

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> How about making the tunic out of lace and add a few
> pearls, pink, green and
> clear beads to spots.
> 
> De
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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I've had no messages for a week - is anybody out there??
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Have replied directly.

Glenda.

-----Original Message-----


I've had no messages for a week - is anybody out there??
-- 
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Subject: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve
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Status: RO

Sorry for the X-posts....

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg<htt=
p://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg>

Any thoughts on the cut of the coat and sleeves of the woman's Schaube?

Here is a similar one for a man.

 =
http://public.fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html<http://public=
fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html>

My theory....coats are very full, and may be cut from a rectangular =
piece of fabric.  I am not even sure this is a separate sleeve.  If you =
have any other examples, please show me!

Thanks,

Sg

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Status: RO

AlbertCat wasn't kinding about the lace and embroidery prices.
http://tinyurl.com/2l7w2a
http://tinyurl.com/26g2xg
http://www.finefabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=
BD


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 16:02:11 -0700
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Status: RO

Ugh, sorry about the links.

http://public.fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "TheRenaissanceTailor" <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>; 
"GermanRenCostume" <GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com>; "h-costume" 
<h-costume@indra.com>; "thefrazzledfrau" <thefrazzledfrau@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve


Sorry for the X-posts....

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg>

Any thoughts on the cut of the coat and sleeves of the woman's Schaube?

Here is a similar one for a man.

 http://public.fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html<http://publicfotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html>My theory....coats are very full, and may be cut from a rectangular piece offabric.  I am not even sure this is a separate sleeve.  If you have anyother examples, please show me!Thanks,Sg_______________________________________________h-costume mailing listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
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Status: RO

OK.  I've resisted as long as I could.
Of course I remember what I was wearing in 2002-4 because I'm still wearing=
 it - and from much earlier too.  It's probably heresy on a fashion-related=
 list, but I refuse to wear some of the ugly junk that shows up in stores. =
 It's expensive and frequently in ugly and unflattering colors.  I quit try=
ing to follow the trends and I stick with what looks good on me...or at lea=
st doesn't look too awful ;-)
Julie

**********
Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
> drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
> it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
> but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
> long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
> of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
> from today?
>
> Sylrog
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for hi-rez images
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Status: RO

Those would be wonderful! I"m trying to see detail so I can make an  
illustrated version.

Thank you!
Althea

On Jul 5, 2007, at 3:20 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> How Hi-res do you want? I don't know of any on the web, but I have  
> some pretty large scans from various books. The Charles is 3 MB  
> with 1-2 MB details.
>
> Beth
>
> At 03:49 PM 7/5/2007, you wrote:
>> Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 13:17:29 -0700
>> From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
>>
>> Greetings all,
>>
>> I am looking for hi-rez images of the extant arming coats of the
>> Black Prince and of Charles of Blois, and of the Effigy of the Black
>> prince in Canterbury Cathedral.  This is so I can make line drawing
>> illustrations for a class I am teaching later this summer.  I've
>> found several low-rez versions on the web, but am hoping you know of
>> better images. Thank you!
>>
>> Althea Turner
>> althea@alfalfapress.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Status: RO

On Thursday 05 July 2007, Julie wrote:
> OK.  I've resisted as long as I could.
> Of course I remember what I was wearing in 2002-4 because I'm still wearing
> it - and from much earlier too.  It's probably heresy on a fashion-related
> list, but I refuse to wear some of the ugly junk that shows up in stores. 
> It's expensive and frequently in ugly and unflattering colors.  I quit
> trying to follow the trends and I stick with what looks good on me...or at
> least doesn't look too awful ;-) Julie

Oh, so do I!  I also dislike throwing out a perfectly good dress or suit, so a 
lot of my wardrobe still dates back to the 1990s.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm totally in love with this one, but I don't think
it will go with the pink/green charmeuse.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230147316386&rd=1&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
or
http://tinyurl.com/2pvtf4

Oh I'm all in a dither. I've got to pick something and
start or it won't happen at all!

MaggiRos the twitterpated

--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 7/5/2007 4:49:31 P.M. Eastern
> Daylight Time,  
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> 
> How  about making the tunic out of lace and add a
> few pearls, pink, green  and
> clear beads to spots.
> 
> 
> 
> **************
>  
> And of course they make the most opulent already
> embroidered / beaded  / 
> beribboned fabrics in a host of colors. They are
> expensive, but when the  pattern 
> and cutting and form are so simple, you need a great
> fabric to make  is 
> luxurious.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's
> free at http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I've found a green that will go under it perfectly. It
will also go under the embroidered black, so I'm going
to go for it and do both!  Mwahahaha. Two totally
different looks off the same idea

I'm feeling fairly evil, but it's payday, and I don't
do this kind of thing very often. No honest. I swear.
Not in silk. Never.

Uh hunh,

MaggiRos



--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> Nice fabric choice, very summery.  Would work for
> both evening and a
> garden party or tea....
> 
> Katy
> 
> On 7/5/07, MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
> > exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
> > isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of
> something
> > summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
> > sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
> > terrific in black. ;-)
> >
> > Something like this:
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
> > or
> > http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr
> >
> > Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid
> green
> > for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or
> maybe
> > the other way around.
> >
> > Thanks for the idea!
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >
> > --- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > MaggiRos,
> > >
> > > Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
> > > with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
> > > tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern
> for
> > > the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from
> the
> > > edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only
> a
> > > thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
> > > Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and
> thigh
> > > to get maximum light, as the black on black
> might be
> > > lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work
> into
> > > where the light will catch it - across the chest
> and
> > > centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle
> where
> > > it will take the weight. You might even find a
> > > patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
> > >
> > > Kathy
> > >
> >
> > ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
> >      Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically
> Everything
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com               
> www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

Suzi,

Have you seen these?

BURIAL CHURCHES OF SPANISH SOVEREIGNS
http://homepage.mac.com/crowns/e/avgal.html

Museo Iglesia del Salvador (Salvador Church=20
Museum )  (O=F1a, Province:=20
<http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/Provincias/H/CW/0/Burgos.htm?Langu=
age=3DEN>Burgos,=20
Region:=20
<http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/CCAA/Datos%20Generales/H/0/Geograf=
ia.htm?Language=3DEN>Castile-Leon,=20
Spain) where the remains of Sancho el Mayor of=20
Navarre and count Don Sancho Garcia of Castile,=20
whose dress has already been restored. It's=20
linen, silk and gold-thread dress, from 920 or=20
thereabouts, possibly made in Cordoba.
http://www.spain.info/UK/TourSpain/DetailPage.aspx?postingpath=3D\Channels\T=
ourSpain\Arte%20y%20Cultura\Museos\H\CW\0\Museo%20del%20Monasterio%20de%20Sa=
n%20Salvador&contenttype=3DMuseum

http://www.ayuntamientoona.com/sansalva.htm

Beth

At 03:49 PM 7/5/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 19:39:17 +0100
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070705193604.027fa370@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed
>
>
>I'll be going to Madrid again in a few weeks. I plan on finishing off
>the third floor of the Prado, visiting the Borne-Misza Museum again
>and showing my DH the Palacio Real. However, I have at the back of my
>mind that there is a costume museum there, that I missed a couple of
>years ago. Does anyone know of this - am I right? Details please if so.
>
>Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve
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Status: RO

These make it pretty clear they are indeed not one with the rest of the 
coat.
Thanks!

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve


> At 00:02 06/07/2007, you wrote:
> >Ugh, sorry about the links.
> >
> >http://public.fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html
> >http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg
> The man's sleeve can be seen on Holbein's iconic painting of Henry
> Vlll, (tucked in behind the puff sleeve and hanging below the elbow)
> and one or two portraits of Edward Vl. At least I think they are the
> same, or very similar.
>
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Henry_VIII.htm
>
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward_VI.htm
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 22:56:47 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920 pattern
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/5/2007 6:59:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

AlbertCat wasn't kinding about the lace and embroidery  prices.
http://tinyurl.com/2l7w2a
http://tinyurl.com/26g2xg
http://www.finefabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=
BD


_______________________________________________



Yikes!....very expensive! But beautiful!
 
How about this? [this is the price range I had in mind... it is  50-something 
wide.]
 
_http://www.finefabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=16
0807-017&Category_Code=BD&Product_Count=20_ 
(http://www.finefabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=160807-017&Category_Code=BD&Product_
Count=20) 
 
The green...over some peach silk. Wasn't that the color range you had in  
mind?



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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At 00:02 06/07/2007, you wrote:
>Ugh, sorry about the links.
>
>http://public.fotki.com/wickedfrau/schaube/mansschaube.html
>http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Taufe-Christi-1556-Detail.jpg
The man's sleeve can be seen on Holbein's iconic painting of Henry 
Vlll, (tucked in behind the puff sleeve and hanging below the elbow) 
and one or two portraits of Edward Vl. At least I think they are the 
same, or very similar.

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Henry_VIII.htm

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward_Vl.htm

Suzi


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 19:00:57 -0600
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Status: RO

I'm sure a  lot of us are still wearing the same clothes from  years 
ago and earlier.  I know I am!    So what were you buying 5 years ago 
that you were still wearing?

Sylrog

On Jul 5, 2007, at 5:38 PM, Julie wrote:

> OK.  I've resisted as long as I could.
> Of course I remember what I was wearing in 2002-4 because I'm still 
> wearing it - and from much earlier too.  It's probably heresy on a 
> fashion-related list, but I refuse to wear some of the ugly junk that 
> shows up in stores.  It's expensive and frequently in ugly and 
> unflattering colors.  I quit trying to follow the trends and I stick 
> with what looks good on me...or at least doesn't look too awful ;-)
> Julie
>
> **********
> Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
>> drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
>> it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that 
>> much,
>> but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
>> long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
>> of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
>> from today?
>>
>> Sylrog
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 23:55:23 -0400
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Status: RO

I don't think that it looks like that.  It appears to me that the sleeve is
only attached at the back half leaving a hole through which the arm could
pass.  That is the way I saw it on the Henry portrait.

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 9:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve

These make it pretty clear they are indeed not one with the rest of the 
coat.
Thanks!

Sg


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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
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Status: RO

I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one full
day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything as a
must-see for a costume junky?

 

Thanks

Beth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
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Status: RO

Beth,

See the Mardi Gras Museum next door to the St. Louis Cathedral.  The 
costumes are wonderful and so creative.  The museum is the building to the 
right of St. Louis. The Cathedral also has some nice statues. I don't know 
since the Katrina...about nighttime safety...  But we took a carriage ride 
at night pre-Katrina.  The vampire and haunted walking  tours were on-going 
.  Our driver encouraged us to make ghostly sounds when passing them.  It 
was a hoot!  We laughed ourselves silly.  The tour also takes you by the 
oldest tavern in the city.  The waiter will come out to your carriage, take 
your order, then deliver it to you while you are in the carriage.  If you 
drink, try a hurricane but only drink one.  It will stay with you for the 
night.  The Mardi Gras shops on Toulouse St. have some wonderful beads.  A 
friend of mine likes coffee.  I bought her a necklace with coffee cups on 
it.  The specialty necklaces prices are around 3 for $10.  In the morning, 
it is really nice to walk around the French Quarter and see the hanging 
gardens from the balconies.  There are wonderful coffee and pastry shops in 
the Quarter.  St. Louis Square is a wonderful place to people watch.  You 
will see all kinds of people.

If you have a car, drive down St. Charles St./the Garden District or take 
the streetcar named "Desire" to the District.  The old southern homes are 
beautiful!

If you have time, LSU, Louisiana State University, in Baton Rouge always has 
a wonderful costume exhibit.  Check their website.

I will warn you to dress in light, breathable clothing.  If you have a hand 
fan, bring it.  It is really hot and humid on the Gulf Coast this time of 
year.  I am originally from Biloxi, Mississippi and do not travel home, this 
time of year, if possible.  I say that and had to go home for the past two 
summers.  Praying that I don't have to go home this summer!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in Madrid?
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Status: RO

At 00:47 06/07/2007, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>
>Have you seen these?
>
>BURIAL CHURCHES OF SPANISH SOVEREIGNS
>http://homepage.mac.com/crowns/e/avgal.html
>
>Museo Iglesia del Salvador (Salvador Church=20
>Museum )  (O=F1a, Province:=20
><http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/Provincias/H/CW/0/Burgos.htm?Lang=
uage=3DEN>Burgos,=20
>Region:=20
><http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/CCAA/Datos%20Generales/H/0/Geogra=
fia.htm?Language=3DEN>Castile-Leon,=20
>Spain) where the remains of Sancho el Mayor of=20
>Navarre and count Don Sancho Garcia of Castile,=20
>whose dress has already been restored. It's=20
>linen, silk and gold-thread dress, from 920 or=20
>thereabouts, possibly made in Cordoba.
>http://www.spain.info/UK/TourSpain/DetailPage.aspx?postingpath=3D\Channels\=
TourSpain\Arte%20y%20Cultura\Museos\H\CW\0\Museo%20del%20Monasterio%20de%20S=
an%20Salvador&contenttype=3DMuseum
>
>http://www.ayuntamientoona.com/sansalva.htm
>
>Beth

When I was in Madrid 2 years ago, they had an=20
exhibition of Burial Clothes at the Palacio Real=20
which I caught by the skin of my teeth - a day=20
later and I would have missed it! Unfortunately=20
we will only be in Madrid for 4 days - a=20
celebration of finally getting our son wed and=20
off our hands - so we won't have time to go=20
visiting. But I will mark these for future=20
reference - we plan to tour Northern Spain one day.

Suzi

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
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Status: RO

Not preciously costume related but there is an exhibit of Durer prints
at the Fine Arts Museum this summer.

alex

On 7/5/07, Beth Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
> I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one full
> day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything as a
> must-see for a costume junky?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  6 10:59:36 2007
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From: Allison <allison@aristotle.net>
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Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am  
helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character  
wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt. Any advice  
from you smart people? I've been told by someone who worked on The  
Full Monty crew to cut the side seams apart all the way, then re- 
attach with lightweight velcro.

TIA,
Allison P.

n. b. - He IS wearing a dance belt underneath his briefs. :-)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/6/2007 12:11:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us writes:

Anyone  recommend anything as a
must-see for a costume  junky?



The Presbytere, in Jackson Square, has a Mardi Gras exhibit, including  
costumes.  It is part of the Louisiana State Museums.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

There is also a traveling exhibition: "Saved from the Storm" artwork
from New Orleans. It is in Omaha, NE at the Joselyn Art Museum, where I
live, should anyone on the list be traveling in the Plains area this
summer

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans museums

Not preciously costume related but there is an exhibit of Durer prints
at the Fine Arts Museum this summer.

alex

On 7/5/07, Beth Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
> I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got=20
> one full day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone=20
> recommend anything as a must-see for a costume junky?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Status: RO

Just saw this - well worth checking out.

Patty (who just happened to be in Nebraska at the time)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Abel, Cynthia
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Orleans museums

There is also a traveling exhibition: "Saved from the Storm" artwork
from New Orleans. It is in Omaha, NE at the Joselyn Art Museum, where I
live, should anyone on the list be traveling in the Plains area this
summer

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans museums

Not preciously costume related but there is an exhibit of Durer prints
at the Fine Arts Museum this summer.

alex

On 7/5/07, Beth Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
> I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got=20
> one full day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone=20
> recommend anything as a must-see for a costume junky?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
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Status: RO

>Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am  
>helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character  
>wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.

<snip>

I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the many 
Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for tear-away 
clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the release was 
unreliable.

What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby clothing.  
I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored it away in my 
brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an ecdysiast...

Richard in MI

_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 13:40:25 -0400
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Status: RO

Ooo, "ecdysiast"--have to file that word away...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "R Harper" <rharperny@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...


> >Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am 
> >helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character 
> >wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.
>
> <snip>
>
> I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the many 
> Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for tear-away 
> clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the release was 
> unreliable.
>
> What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby clothing. 
> I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored it away in my 
> brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an ecdysiast...
>
> Richard in MI
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://newlivehotmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
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Status: RO

At 18:36 06/07/2007, you wrote:
>>Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am
>>helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character
>>wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.
>
><snip>
>
>I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the 
>many Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for 
>tear-away clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the 
>release was unreliable.
>
>What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby clothing.
>I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored it away 
>in my brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an ecdysiast...
>
>Richard in MI

I've used a couple of stitches in the right places. You have to use 
proper cotton thread though - polyester and silk don't break easily enough.

Suzi

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Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 10:45:58 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
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Status: RO

OK, Richard. I hate not knowing a word so I had to look it up:

eckysiast: n. a striptease performer
ORIGIN 1940: coined by HL Mencken from the Greek ekdusis 'shedding,'
on the pattern of 'enthusiast'

I don't know when I'll have the opportunity to use it except in
conjunction with my 2 year old niece, but it's a great word!

Thanks,
LynnD

And now back to our program...



On 7/6/07, R Harper <rharperny@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am
> >helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character
> >wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.
>
> <snip>
>
> I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the many
> Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for tear-away
> clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the release was
> unreliable.
>
> What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby clothing.
> I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored it away in my
> brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an ecdysiast...
>
> Richard in MI
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://newlivehotmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 13:49:35 -0400
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Status: RO

I'm with Richard (hi, Richard!) on the tiny snaps.  That's what we've  
used in theatre in various similar situations--especially the strip  
number in A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum.  The trick  
is deciding how much hold you need vs. how easily they need to  
release.  In some places we used the tiny metal snaps, and in others  
the tiny plastic snaps.

Melanie Schuessler (near Richard in MI)


On Jul 6, 2007, at 1:36 PM, R Harper wrote:

>> Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.   
>> Am  helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one  
>> character  wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.
>
> <snip>
>
> I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the  
> many Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong  
> for tear-away clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and  
> the release was unreliable.
>
> What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby  
> clothing.  I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I  
> stored it away in my brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to  
> sew for an ecdysiast...
>
> Richard in MI
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://newlivehotmail.com
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
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Status: RO

At 18:45 06/07/2007, you wrote:
>OK, Richard. I hate not knowing a word so I had to look it up:
>
>eckysiast: n. a striptease performer
>ORIGIN 1940: coined by HL Mencken from the Greek ekdusis 'shedding,'
>on the pattern of 'enthusiast'
>
>I don't know when I'll have the opportunity to use it except in
>conjunction with my 2 year old niece, but it's a great word!
>
>Thanks,
>LynnD

I remember that the script for "Gypsy" - the Broadway musical, not 
the film, used it - Gypsy Rose either called herself an ecdesiast, or 
one of the strippers, during the number "You've gotta have a gimmick" 
used it in dialogue. (I was wardrobe mistress in the West end - 
Angela Lansbury version - not a fun experience!)

Suzi 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Thoughts on the cut of Schaube/Sleeve
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Status: RO

Thank you for all your reply's.  This is a response to several people's 
comments from several different lists. I have looked at other's research, 
(Marion and Myra), but this coat seems much fuller than Myra's version. 
(Yes Marion, please have your husband take pictures and post them! :)  The 
shape is more boxy looking to me.

There is such incredible variety out there on these coats; one could do a 
number of different things and find pictorial justification.  I happen to 
like Kohler's ideas.  And use him much the same as it sounds Katherine does. 
It is like a little puzzle and detective work to find the originals from 
which he drew his information. I'll have to get my hands on 
 Hefner-Alteneck - I've not heard of him, but he looks like he precedes both 
Von Boehn and Kohler (I just realized that Kohler precedes Von Boehn and not 
the other way 'round - but at least he tells you where the pictures came 
from.)

As to the origins of this garment:  This is an excerpt from a paper I did a 
number of years ago for anyone who is interested:

"Another, less exciting but very popular garment, which should be mentioned, 
is the "Schaube." It was so popular that it influenced foreign fashions at 
the time. Combined with huge sleeves and extended shoulders, this garment 
created an imposing figure. They clearly gave one status, so much so, that 
they were they made the list of demands from the peasants, during a revolt 
in 1524. In this case it was that they be allowed to wear a particular color 
of coat as the rich did.

Rot hatte den Beigeschmack des Vornehmen, nur die besseren Stände konnten es 
tragen; als sich im Baurenkrieg dei gemeinen Leute in Langensalza empörten, 
lautete eine ihrer Hauptfordgerungen, sie wolten jetzt auch rote Schauben 
tragen wie die Reichen. (Von Boehn, Vol II, 98)

Several examples of the garment "Schaube" can be seen in Figures 13 through 
16.
The first two are examples of German sitters. The following two are examples 
of foreign use. The first example is the English king, Henry the VIII, and 
the second, a pair of French ambassadors. Italian examples are plentiful as 
well.

The origins of the word "Schaube" are probably French, but it was 
assimilated very early (13th century) and is also likely to have had the 
same origins as "Joppe." The following is an entry for Joppe in the Kluge 
Etymological Dictionary:
 Joppe
Substantiv Femininum erweiterter Standardwortschatz regional (13. Jh.), mhd. 
jop(p)e, juppe (schope, schop[p]e m./f.) Entlehnung aus (älterem) it. 
giubba, guppa "Jacke, Wams," das seiner seits auf arab. Gubba "Obergewand 
mit langen Ärmeln" zurückgeht. Gleicher Herkunft ist vielleicht Schaube.
Ebenso neuniederländisch jopper; Schaube. (Grimm)

Oddly enough however Schaube is also very closely related to the word 
"Schaub." This is another word for "Garbe"; the word for "sheaf" in English. 
According to the OED, the origin of "sheaf" is Teutonic. The similarities 
between "sheaf," "sheath," "garb," "Garbe," "Schaub," and "Schaube" are 
difficult to ignore though none of the resources I looked at drew any of 
these connections."

I actually like the more slim-lined version, but the fabric I have is very 
expensive and I want to use as much of it as possible because the leftovers 
would be pretty useless to me.  Mine is just like this only the colorway is 
different.  http://discountfabricsusa.stores.yahoo.net/amstvecbrbyb.html 
The charcoal is replaced by a deep rose or russet.    The collar and some of 
the lining will be mink.  The rest will be shot satin   (synthetic - sigh) 
which coordinates with the rose color. I understand   aversions to using 
real fur, but I recycle vintage items for this...little   animals are 
already dead and gone....


Thanks for sharing....

Saragrace 

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Status: RO

So if you had 3 months (just to set an arbitrary limit to what you can see 
but feel free to ignore any time it might take to travel between 
museums/countries) to travel the world and see every costume related museum 
you could what would you want to see.
My list: In the UK I'd have to prioritise the V&A, Museum of London, Museum 
of Costume in Bath (I missed that when I was in the UK a few years ago) & 
National Portrait Gallery (another one I missed on that trip and although 
it's not directly costume related I've got to see all those Tudor 
portraits). In the USA, The Met in New York (I'm not sure on their costume 
collection but I've heard good things about their art collection), Museum of 
Fine Arts Boston (if their online collection is anything to go by their 
costume collection must be pretty impressive) but that's all I could come up 
with off the top of my head, I know there's some good European museums but I 
don't know any names.
So let your imagination fly and come up with your own list
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] your dream costume trip
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Don't forget the Historic Costume & Textile Museum at Kent State =
University in the USA.
=20
Patty
=20
=20

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Fri 7/6/2007 9:55 PM
To: Historic Costume
Subject: [h-cost] your dream costume trip



So if you had 3 months (just to set an arbitrary limit to what you can =
see
but feel free to ignore any time it might take to travel between
museums/countries) to travel the world and see every costume related =
museum
you could what would you want to see.
My list: In the UK I'd have to prioritise the V&A, Museum of London, =
Museum
of Costume in Bath (I missed that when I was in the UK a few years ago) =
&
National Portrait Gallery (another one I missed on that trip and =
although
it's not directly costume related I've got to see all those Tudor
portraits). In the USA, The Met in New York (I'm not sure on their =
costume
collection but I've heard good things about their art collection), =
Museum of
Fine Arts Boston (if their online collection is anything to go by their
costume collection must be pretty impressive) but that's all I could =
come up
with off the top of my head, I know there's some good European museums =
but I
don't know any names.
So let your imagination fly and come up with your own list
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

R Harper wrote:
>> Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project.  Am  
>> helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one 
>> character  wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt.
>
> <snip>
>
> I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the 
> many Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for 
> tear-away clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the 
> release was unreliable.
>
> What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby 
> clothing.  I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored 
> it away in my brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an 
> ecdysiast...

Yep. Snaps. Velcro doesn't let go (unless you're going to run your 
fingers along the seam).

Why tear-away briefs, though? Are they going to show before they're torn 
off? If not, just have a pair of briefs that can be attached (not worn) 
under the kilt and pulled out.

andy

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Status: RO

I second the Mardi Gras Museum.  Also fascinating, if not directly 
costume-related, is the Voodoo Museum (assuming it's still there 
after the storm).

Sandy

At 12:20 PM 7/6/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 00:10:50 -0400
>From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
>
>I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one full
>day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything as a
>must-see for a costume junky?
>
>Thanks
>Beth

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

If I had three months, I have always wanted three months to research in 
Egypt.  Within the next month or so, one dream trip is coming true.  I am 
going to Philadelphia to see the King Tut exhibit.

I would also like to visit the FIDM during Oscar week to view the film 
costumes nominated.  Then watch the Red Carpet for the Oscars to see the 
fashions worn up close.  I would also like to see Debbie Reynolds film 
costume collection

I have also wanted to go to the Costume Institute at the MET, then see the 
Lion King play.

I would love to go to Mexico for Day of the Dead.  I saw a mini-version when 
I lived in New Mexico.   I would also like to go back to the Folk Art Museum 
in Santa Fe, NM.  This is one of my favorite museums.  The displays are the 
best I have seen in a museum.

Go to Carnival in Venice.  Also, go to Rio for Carnivale.  Another carnival 
related one, Gasparilla in Tampa, Florida.  I would love to see the pirates 
taking over the city!  I was so close to going to Gasparilla and couldn't 
because I was teaching at the time.  These celebrations are actually high on 
my list with Egypt and the Oscars.  I party hard when away from the kids! 
Those who have been at CSA symposiums know that I travel with a blender!

Last weekend, another dream trip happened...not so costume related but fun! 
We went sailing on one of the tall ships.  We took a short cruise on the 
York River from Yorktown, VA.  We celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary on 
a sunset cruise.

I would also love to go to the Vatican to see the art collection and the 
castles in Germany.  My husband has been to Germany several times and has 
been most impressed with the castles.

I am known for getting kicked out of museums... not for my partying or my 
blender ; >!  I stay in museums and state libraries until I am the last one 
there.  I always get a guarded escort out.  I just don't want to leave until 
someone says that I HAVE to leave. Well, last week, I got kicked out of the 
National Archives!  A new notch on my belt. LOL!  I have been to the 
archives several times to research but had never seen the exhibits.
So far I have been kicked out of:
***London's National Gallery, the Portrait Gallery, Tower of London, V&A, & 
St. Paul's Cathedral
***Liverpool's Cathedrals (I'm bad when I get kicked out of the Catholic and 
the Church of England's Cathedrals)
***Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh: Guards followed us around because I wanted 
to look up close to every brush stroke.  I believe another he-costumer was 
with me for this one!
***Williamsburg Museum: I didn't get kicked out, but I was setting off 
alarms from getting to close to the needlework samplers.  I just wanted to 
see the stitches up close!
***Virginia Historical Society: I was drawing floor plans for a class.
***Virginia Museum of Fine Arts: This one was not my fault... #2 son was a 
baby and wouldn't stop crying.  Irony, he majored in art in college.  And he 
is a big art critic!  BTW, this was my first museum to be kicked out of.
***Library of Virginia: too many times to count!  I was doing research.
***LDS local Library: many times!
***I even got kicked out of the Painted Desert.  I will retract my VA Museum 
of Fine Art response about my first.  The Painted Desert was my first! 
Believe it or not, the Painted Desert does close.  I asked the ranger if 
they draw a big curtain around it.  My husband and kids thought it was 
funny.  But the ranger didn't and escorted us out.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] your dream costume trip
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At 02:55 07/07/2007, you wrote:
>So if you had 3 months (just to set an arbitrary limit to what you 
>can see but feel free to ignore any time it might take to travel 
>between museums/countries) to travel the world and see every costume 
>related museum you could what would you want to see.
>My list: In the UK I'd have to prioritise the V&A, Museum of London, 
>Museum of Costume in Bath (I missed that when I was in the UK a few 
>years ago) & National Portrait Gallery (another one I missed on that 
>trip and although it's not directly costume related I've got to see 
>all those Tudor portraits). In the USA, The Met in New York (I'm not 
>sure on their costume collection but I've heard good things about 
>their art collection), Museum of Fine Arts Boston (if their online 
>collection is anything to go by their costume collection must be 
>pretty impressive) but that's all I could come up with off the top 
>of my head, I know there's some good European museums but I don't 
>know any names.
>So let your imagination fly and come up with your own list
>Elizabeth
>--------------------------------------------



In no particular order, and assuming I would be allowed into the 
archives/stores, I think I would need longer than three months. But, 
supposing I had time

Kyoto

The Hermitage in St. Petersburg - I've seen some of the clothes from 
there - more, more!!

The Collections in Florence (Pitti Palace, Uffizzi etc.)

Musee des Arts et du Textiles in Paris

Musee Galliera also in Paris

The museum in Holland that is twinned with the Paris set up

Musee du Tissus in Lyon - all that silk

Platt Hall in Manchester

The DAR Museum in Washington - I only saw the stores, not what was on 
display, and left 30 minutes after the place closed, and 3 hours 
after the curator left!!

The Met in New York

Colonial Williamsburg - I was there for about 75 minutes and barely 
shifted the covers, let alone scrape the surface

LACMA, where almost nothing is on display, but they have a huge collection

And that is just clothing. Another three years for the Art Galleries 
is needed I think. Greedy, moi?

Suzi



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Status: RO

Hi Suzi,
I second your visits.
I just wished i had the time for the small costume museum in Copenhagen, ben 
there a coupple of times, and i am always welcome again, but its the time i 
need!
They have a lovely caraco jacket with matching skirt wich is embroidered. 
And i have a pattern draft of it, but the embroidery pattern is very poor, 
and i dont know wich collours are used. I surely want to go to see that next 
time, and take photos of the embroidery.
Right at this moment a large packet is on its way to me from China with more 
than 2 kg. of embroidery silk in more than 450 collours, either next week or 
the week after its mine, all mine :-)
Another dream i have is to go to Rosenborg and be allowed to examine the 
skirt wich belonged to Queen Caroline Mathilde, its also embroideredd very 
beautifully in the hem, meassure the embroidery, and make a pattern draft of 
the pattern...........
The silver spangeled suit i  am making right now, is from Sct. Petersburg, 
it was Tzar Allexanders suit while he was a boy, the russian costumes are 
outstanding beautifull.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] your dream costume trip


> At 02:55 07/07/2007, you wrote:
>>So if you had 3 months (just to set an arbitrary limit to what you can see 
>>but feel free to ignore any time it might take to travel between 
>>museums/countries) to travel the world and see every costume related 
>>museum you could what would you want to see.
>>My list: In the UK I'd have to prioritise the V&A, Museum of London, 
>>Museum of Costume in Bath (I missed that when I was in the UK a few years 
>>ago) & National Portrait Gallery (another one I missed on that trip and 
>>although it's not directly costume related I've got to see all those Tudor 
>>portraits). In the USA, The Met in New York (I'm not sure on their costume 
>>collection but I've heard good things about their art collection), Museum 
>>of Fine Arts Boston (if their online collection is anything to go by their 
>>costume collection must be pretty impressive) but that's all I could come 
>>up with off the top of my head, I know there's some good European museums 
>>but I don't know any names.
>>So let your imagination fly and come up with your own list
>>Elizabeth
>>--------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> In no particular order, and assuming I would be allowed into the 
> archives/stores, I think I would need longer than three months. But, 
> supposing I had time
>
> Kyoto
>
> The Hermitage in St. Petersburg - I've seen some of the clothes from 
> there - more, more!!
>
> The Collections in Florence (Pitti Palace, Uffizzi etc.)
>
> Musee des Arts et du Textiles in Paris
>
> Musee Galliera also in Paris
>
> The museum in Holland that is twinned with the Paris set up
>
> Musee du Tissus in Lyon - all that silk
>
> Platt Hall in Manchester
>
> The DAR Museum in Washington - I only saw the stores, not what was on 
> display, and left 30 minutes after the place closed, and 3 hours after the 
> curator left!!
>
> The Met in New York
>
> Colonial Williamsburg - I was there for about 75 minutes and barely 
> shifted the covers, let alone scrape the surface
>
> LACMA, where almost nothing is on display, but they have a huge collection
>
> And that is just clothing. Another three years for the Art Galleries is 
> needed I think. Greedy, moi?
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul  7 14:25:13 2007
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Status: RO

While channel surfing for a couple minutes I cam upon a movie made in 
the 60s that took place in the 1920s.  Can't remember what is is, but 
it starred George Peppard and Elizabeth Ashley, among others.  The 
Carpetbaggers maybe?  Anyhow, I'm trying to figure out what is so wrong 
about the designer's attempt at 1920s women's clothing.  Obviously the 
hair, for starters, which looks like the 1960s bouffant.  The dress 
seems fairly 1920s and I realize that most women then were probably not 
built stick then to look like they do in all the renderings from the 
period.  Elizabeth Ashleiy is very well endowed and it's leading me to 
wonder what busty women wore for bras then and would have given them 
the support they needed.   The only bras I've seen from the 1920s are 
flimsy little silk things with no structure at all.  And what would you 
use on a busty actress today to help give her that proper 1920s look?


Sylvia Rognstad
DIVINITY DESIGNS and EMERALDS
http://www.d-e-designs.com

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Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 13:35:37 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] your dream costume trip
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>So if you had 3 months (just to set an arbitrary limit to what you can see
>but feel free to ignore any time it might take to travel between
>museums/countries) to travel the world and see every costume related museum
>you could what would you want to see.

I'd prioritize several ways.  Places I havent been:
Museo de Traje (Madrid)
Palais Galeria(?) & sometimes there's fashion exhibits at Gallerie
Lafayette (Paris)
Musee de Tissu (Lyons)
Tessuti & The Lace Museum (Venice)
Ranger's House jewelry collection (Greenwich, UK)
Museum of London (London)
Manchester & all the costume collections in the UK that arent in London
Bata Shoe Museum (Ontario)
Stibbert (Florence)
Forbidden Palace Museum (Taipei)
Museum of the Confederacy (Richmond VA)
that ones in Barcelona, St Petersburg & Brugge & Amsterdam
and Bjarne's living room so I can see his work up close.

Stuff I dont even know about in the US:
(I'll wait & find out what the rest of you list to fill this section in.)


Places I have been, but the venue is small & the collection so large
that when it changes there's a whole new experience:
Pitti Palace (Florence)
Kyoto Museum of Costume, Nishiki weaving district and Kyoto School of
Kimono (Kyoto)
Musee de la Mode, Louvre jewelry (Paris)
Bunka Gakuin and TNM (Tokyo)
V&A, Brit Museum jewelry collection (London)
The Met, FIT (NYC)
Eretz Israel ethnic costume collection (Jerusalem)

Places that I've been, like the collection, but it's really an excuse
to hang out with other stuff in the area:
Benaki Byzantine Museum jewelry collection (Athens)
Thessaloniki Archaeology jewelry collection  (Thessalonika)
Topkapi Palace jewelry collection (Istanbul)
Provence Musee de Costume (Nice)
funny, these are next to beaches in the Med!

--cin
Cynthia Bar,nes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] your dream costume trip
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> > travel the world and see every costume related
> > museum you could what would you want to see.
> 
> I'd prioritize several ways.  Places I havent been:

> Museum of the Confederacy (Richmond VA)
> 
> --cin
> Cynthia Bar,nes

I was distinctly unimpressed by the Museum of the
Confederacy.  Costuming-specific, they has a little
lacey knit mitt on display, which was labelled
crochet.

Unless crochet now means knit with holes in?

The few & far between other clothing items on display
were largely nothing that impressed me.

fwiw.

Ann in CT
p.s., the whole 'roooomance of the glorious South' has
pretty much passed me by; and this was before I read
the letter about an uncle of mine getting his head
blown off.  ac


       
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	<6.2.3.4.2.20070707004614.0381aa80@pop.radiks.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 17:42:41 -0400
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Status: RO

I'm pretty sure the Voodoo Museum is still there. I was in New Orleans just 
over a year ago; some of my friends went into the museum, but (IIRC) I 
believe there are steps inside which I couldn't navigate.

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pierre & Sandy Pettinger" <costumrs@radiks.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 1:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans


>I second the Mardi Gras Museum.  Also fascinating, if not directly 
>costume-related, is the Voodoo Museum (assuming it's still there after the 
>storm).
>
> Sandy
>
> At 12:20 PM 7/6/2007, you wrote:
>>Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 00:10:50 -0400
>>From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>>Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
>>
>>I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one 
>>full
>>day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything as 
>>a
>>must-see for a costume junky?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Beth
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>  -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920s
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 16:53:53 -0500
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Status: RO

http://www.fashion-era.com/flapper_fashion_1920s.htm
The 1920's Bra
The bras of the early 20s include home made ones in white cotton and which
were little more than bust bodices with extra separation.  Some purchased
bras were like camisoles and they offered no support.

Big busted girls turned to bandaging their breasts flat, but many adopted
the Symington Side Lacer, a bra that could be laced at both sides and pulled
and pulled in to flatten the chest.

For young ladies with youthful figures a satisfactory bra was the four
sectioned lace bandeau bra, lined in net.  None of the bras gave much shape,
but few ladies were seeking anything more than stopping the bust from
wobbling. As long as they looked boyish they looked fashionable.

By the 1930s Triumph, Maidenform, Gossard, Warner Brothers, Spirella,
Twilfit and Symingtons were all making bras that did the job of separating
the breasts. At the same time it was finally acknowledged that women had
differing cup sizes and bra sales doubled with the new designs.

The Symington Side Lacer
After 1918 fashion bras were simply lace fabric bands with straps.  The
boyish figures needed for styles by designers like Chanel didn't need
upholstered corsets.

The best bra to get the right effect was called the Symington Side Lacer, a
reinforced bust bodice.  Side lacing meant that it flattened the bust when
laced tightly.  Soon the word brassiere was abandoned for bra and ever since
in fashion history we have referred to the bra.



-----Original Message-----
The dress seems fairly 1920s and I realize that most women then were
probably not
built stick then to look like they do in all the renderings from the
period.  Elizabeth Ashleiy is very well endowed and it's leading me to
wonder what busty women wore for bras then and would have given them
the support they needed.   The only bras I've seen from the 1920s are
flimsy little silk things with no structure at all.  And what would you
use on a busty actress today to help give her that proper 1920s look?


Sylvia Rognstad


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Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 15:03:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> a movie made in the 60s that took place in the
1920s.   > it's leading me to wonder what busty women
wore for
> bras then and would have given them the support they
> needed.   The only bras I've seen from the 1920s are

> flimsy little silk things with no structure at all. 
> And what would you use on a busty actress today to
> help give her that proper 1920s look?
> 
> Sylvia Rognstad

I'm not at all sure that 'support' per se was aimed
at.  The previous decade or two positively encouraged
sagging breasts for all the corsetry.

I'm thinking more 'flattening'.

And try to find something like Sears catalogs of the
relevant year or years, as they catered to more ages
than just the young, svelte, pre-flattened or boyish
girl's figure.
>From Tara McGinnis's website:
<http://www.costumes.org/history/20thcent/1920s/bernardhewettcat/pg24.jpg>
some 'corsolettes' in the center of the page.


Despite the extremes of the fashion sketches, ordinary
women, and even manequins, were expected to have a bit
of softness to their figures.


Ann in CT


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2007 18:06:11 -0400
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The VooDoo Museum is still there.  Or at least if it is gone it isnt due to 
the storm.  It was still there last year.

Ron Carnegie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans


> I'm pretty sure the Voodoo Museum is still there. I was in New Orleans 
> just over a year ago; some of my friends went into the museum, but (IIRC) 
> I believe there are steps inside which I couldn't navigate.
>
> kate
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Pierre & Sandy Pettinger" <costumrs@radiks.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 1:49 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans
>
>
>>I second the Mardi Gras Museum.  Also fascinating, if not directly 
>>costume-related, is the Voodoo Museum (assuming it's still there after the 
>>storm).
>>
>> Sandy
>>
>> At 12:20 PM 7/6/2007, you wrote:
>>>Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 00:10:50 -0400
>>>From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>>>Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans museums
>>>
>>>I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one 
>>>full
>>>day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything 
>>>as a
>>>must-see for a costume junky?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Beth
>>
>> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
>> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
>> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
>> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>>
>> Achemdro'hm
>> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>>  -- C.Y. 4971
>>
>> Andromeda
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Status: RO

Interesting how different people respond to different things.  My all-time =
favorite costuming "stop" was the Museum of the Confederacy.  Go figure.  I=
 found the curator VERY accommodating--our scheduled half-hour behind-the-s=
cenes-down-in-the-archives trip to look at a maximum of three items turned =
into a four hour quick and dirty look at every single piece of fabric in th=
e archives.  It all depends on what you are looking for, I guess.  My husba=
nd and I are both very interested in military uniforms, which is much of th=
e focus of course.  However, I'm also an avid researcher of the city of Win=
chester, Virginia vis a vis the Civil War.   One of my favorite diaries fro=
m Winchester was by Cornelia Peake MacDonald.  Mrs. MacDonald had a  new br=
onze silk dinner dress made in anticipation of a scheduled dinner with her =
husband's commanding officer, General Stonewall Jackson.  Instead,  Jackson=
 was wounded at Chancellorsville and subsequently died of his wounds before=
 the planned dinner could take place, and Mrs. MacDonald carefully packed a=
way the bronze silk dress unworn.  Finding it on display at the Museum of t=
he Confederacy, along with Mrs. MacDonald's daughter's beloved doll which s=
he also mentioned in her diary, was worth the trip for me and brought me to=
 tears because I knew the story "behind the scenes" as it were.   My husban=
d, by contrast, had been reading a specific soldier's diary on our trip, an=
d was thrilled to find the man's uniform coat down in the climate controlle=
d storage units.And if you're looking for "pretty stuff", the Valentine Mus=
eum is just down the street from the Museum of the Confederacy.  They have =
one of the largest collections of women's historical clothing in the United=
 States.   They are also amenable to scheduled trips into the archives to e=
xamine their pieces.  And again, we found the museum curator VERY accommoda=
ting, and spent several hours examining any number of garments over and abo=
ve the "allowed" number before we adjourned for an impromptu lunch to discu=
ss historic clothing.  One place I haven't heard anyone mention is a bit of=
f the beaten path.  About four years ago, my girlfriend took me to the Univ=
ersity of Rhode Island to see their historic clothing collection.  I found =
a fabulous variety of women's dresses, outerwear, bonnets, shoes, accessori=
tes, etc. that was very comprehensive between 1800-1920.  Again, we were as=
signed a graduate student who was very accommodating and basically turned u=
s and our cameras loose to spend a wonderful afternoon "playing" in the sto=
re room.  I couldn't tell you the exact number of items they have, but I kn=
ow I burned through two 1 gig memory cards in the digital camera in short o=
rder, and had to go down and get my friend's digi out of the car.Bottom lin=
e:  I guess you get out of something what you're willing to put into it.  I=
f you're well-versed and interested in what a specific museum has on displa=
y, you'll probably go home happy.  If you don't have a specific knowledge o=
r interest, you're far more likely to go home disappointed.  A friend just =
returned from a trip to China.  She now regrets that she didn't learn more =
about Chinese history and culture BEFORE her trip, because many of the thin=
gs she saw had little significance for her without the background knowledge=
.One other place I just remembered--if you're interested in historic milita=
ry uniforms, an absolute must-see is the Artillery Museum in Newport, RI.  =
Absolutely wonderful, lots of great things on display, and once again, trem=
endously accommodating docents and curator.LuAnn> Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 14:=
31:13 -0700> From: elvestoorder@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] your dream=
 costume trip> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC: > > > --- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.=
com> wrote:> > > > travel the world and see every costume related> > > muse=
um you could what would you want to see.> > > > I'd prioritize several ways=
.  Places I havent been:> > > Museum of the Confederacy (Richmond VA)> > > =
> --cin> > Cynthia Bar,nes> > I was distinctly unimpressed by the Museum of=
 the> Confederacy.  Costuming-specific, they has a little> lacey knit mitt =
on display, which was labelled> crochet.> > Unless crochet now means knit w=
ith holes in?> > The few & far between other clothing items on display> wer=
e largely nothing that impressed me.> > fwiw.> > Ann in CT> p.s., the whole=
 'roooomance of the glorious South' has> pretty much passed me by; and this=
 was before I read> the letter about an uncle of mine getting his head> blo=
wn off.  ac> > >        > _________________________________________________=
___________________________________> Need a vacation? Get great deals> to a=
mazing places on Yahoo! Travel.> http://travel.yahoo.com/> ________________=
_______________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.ind=
ra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tear-away briefs
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Status: RO


Thanks, Andy - I will see the actor tomorrow and offer him your  
suggestion.  I think it may be the perfect solution, since we are  
down to the wire with production.  This actor is also a costumer, and  
he recently worked The Full Monty.  He told me their tear-away  
trousers used lightweight velcro with whopper poppers at the stress  
points.

I also think trying to make a regulation pair of tight-whiteys stable  
enough to tear away for more than one performance is a much more  
tedious job than it's worth.

Thanks, y'all!

Allison P.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s
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When we did the miniseries "The Wedding" for Harpo productions here in  
Wilmington, there was a flashback scene to a 1920's Deb ball, for wealthy  blacks. 
Many of the girls were "well set up". We made a bunch of bust binding  
thingies out of 8" wide elastic. It was rather study, eager to spring back to  its 
smallest measurement. We cut a length about 3" smaller than bust size and  put 
hook and eye tape on each end.
 
The scene looked great, BTW, with all those dark skinned girls in their  
cream and white 20's dresses of lots of beaded chiffon, lace and  ribbons, with 
handkerchief hems. They all had huge corsages, mostly white  and peach flowers. 
The black men in tails. Looked  great!



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans
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Status: RO

The Mardi Gras Museum is good bet.  The Backstreet Cultural Museum (near the Quarter) has the largest collection of Mardi Gras Indian costumes.  It also includes history of jazz funerals and other New Orleans traditions.  The Presbytere in Jackson Square has good historic Mardi Gras costumes.  The Voodoo Museum is up...so is the Haunted History Tour that departs from one of my favorite spots Rev. Zombie's Voodoo Shop.  Great stuff.  You can also find antique shops around the French Quarter that sell real antique clothing.  I am sorry to say that the French Market is still getting back to pre-disaster days.  I stopped in a few months back and only about a third of the place was running.  However, work was in progress at the time.  You are sure to have a wonderful visit, but please remember to be aware and be careful.   S.

> Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Orleans 
> To: h-costume@indra.com 
> 
> I second the Mardi Gras Museum.  Also fascinating, if not directly 
> costume-related, is the Voodoo Museum (assuming it's still there 
> after the storm). 
> 
> Sandy 
> >Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans museums 
> > 
> >I'm going to be in New Orleans for a conference next week. I've got one full 
> >day and some scattered time for sight seeing. Anyone recommend anything as a 
> >must-see for a costume junky? 
> > 
> >Thanks 
> >Beth 
>

 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok to 
send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks fabulous, 
with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian 
rennaissance fantasy to me.............
http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Nice inspiration.
But to me the bride looks like she was just dug up from a grave....
They all look like walking corpses.

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be 
> ok to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks 
> fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very 
> italian rennaissance fantasy to me.............
> http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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At 05:14 AM 7/8/2007, you wrote:
>Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would 
>be ok to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it 
>looks fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is 
>very italian rennaissance fantasy to me.............
>http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm


Thanks, that was fun! A few things that made me gasp at their 
beauty,  a few that just made me gasp. (like the lime green bubble thing..)

But what is the deal with all the models looking like the walking 
dead, or something out a Tim Burton movie? Eww.

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy4@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix


> At 05:14 AM 7/8/2007, you wrote:
>>Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok 
>>to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks 
>>fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian 
>>rennaissance fantasy to me.............
>>http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>
>
> Thanks, that was fun! A few things that made me gasp at their beauty,  a 
> few that just made me gasp. (like the lime green bubble thing..)
>
> But what is the deal with all the models looking like the walking dead, or 
> something out a Tim Burton movie? Eww.
>
> Dianne
>
The models all looked drugged out, and what was with the weird hats stuck to 
the sides of their heads?

Susan 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002201c7c140$7104dbc0$6ae73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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Status: RO

Quite a few of the dresses looked historically inspired, not to mention the
Marie Antoinette hair.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 4:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix

Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok to
send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks fabulous,
with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian
rennaissance fantasy to me.............
http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/8/2007 8:44:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sclark935@austin.rr.com writes:

The models all looked drugged out,
 
*****************
 
Really. I thought Heroine Chic went out in the 90's.
 
*************
 
 
 and what was with the weird hats stuck to 
the sides of their  heads?

***************
 
 
Yeah... whassup with that? Just like with the Ascot hats.
 
Some nice things. Some stupid things. Influences from all over the  place. 
Not much of a "style"...except the crazy wigs and makeup. Those two  things 
[done by a stylists, not the designer] were the only things that  "held it 
together". But not much of a cohesion to the clothes. The  "Wedding Dress" was fun 
but looked like the Virgin Mary wearing the crown of  heaven. Might be OK for a 
Catholic wedding....



 



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

That's fun to watch.  I wonder what will trickle down to become new 
trends and clothes that we actually see in department stores.  Do you 
know when this collection was actually shown, Bjarne?    I dont 
normally follow fashion but in the fall I have to teach the costume and 
fashion class I taught last fall for the first time so I guess it's 
time for me to start paying attention again.

Sylrog

On Jul 8, 2007, at 3:14 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be 
> ok to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks 
> fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very 
> italian rennaissance fantasy to me.............
> http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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From: "Paula Praxis" <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2007 10:05:16 -0700
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Status: RO

That was fun but my thought as each design came down more and more 
outrageous was "Who wears this stuff?"  and then "How will it translate to 
real fashion?".  I also wondered about the hair -yuk! and if some of the 
models were on drugs.  But it was a fun clip to wake me up, now back to my 
own sewing machine.
Paula


>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok to 
>send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks fabulous, 
>with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian 
>rennaissance fantasy to me.............
>http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 12:10:28 -0500
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Status: RO

Most of the fashions look like a exaggerated early 1900s. One or two from
the 60s and one or two from the 1700s. Hairstyle can be 1700s but you find
it could be compared to the late eighteen hundreds. The raccoon eyes are
reminiscent of the 1930s silent movies which would meld with the outfits
looking like the 1930 fashions were an influence. The shoes , if my memory
services me right are a trademark style of LaCroix.
The wedding dress, though looks influenced by "Italian" 1490s is better
compared to late 1800s and early 1900s with artist's works, like Mucha and
Morris

De

-----Original Message-----
http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm


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Status: RO

Was looking for a good example for the Lacroix comparison and came across
this which I think someone was asking about.
http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1900s/images/corsets.jpg
http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1900s/images/1916corsets.jpg
De



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Status: RO

Maybe the dark under the eyes is a French thing.
http://www.fashionwindows.com/fashion_designers/christian_lacroix/2007f/clf0
721.asp
or another trademark of Lacroix.
Though for the HC spring line they do not appear to have them
http://www.fashionwindows.com/fashion_designers/christian_lacroix/hcs071.asp
What was shown by Bjarne is the haute couture line which is almost always
extreme.
Here is a sample of his ready wear, Fall2007
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007RTW/complete/thumb/CLACRO
IX
spring 2007
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2007RTW/complete/thumb/CLACRO
IX
These are pictures of the fall Haute Couture line 2007.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007CTR/complete/thumb/CLACRO
IX




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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Status: RO

Hi,
I dont know excactly when it was send, but it was shown on the danish 
television news, so it must have ben recent.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix


> That's fun to watch.  I wonder what will trickle down to become new trends 
> and clothes that we actually see in department stores.  Do you know when 
> this collection was actually shown, Bjarne?    I dont normally follow 
> fashion but in the fall I have to teach the costume and fashion class I 
> taught last fall for the first time so I guess it's time for me to start 
> paying attention again.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Jul 8, 2007, at 3:14 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok 
>> to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks 
>> fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very 
>> italian rennaissance fantasy to me.............
>> http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/8/2007 1:35:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Here is  a sample of his ready wear,  Fall2007
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007RTW/complete/thumb/CLACRO
IX



Mmmmm..colorful!
 
Not.
 
But much more wearable.



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Status: RO

I need to make a pair of these:

http://www.suitability.com/item.cfm?catID=150&invID=739

http://tinyurl.com/ytd9sa

If that doesn't get you there, it's the women's stretch breech pattern at 
suitability.com

Finding fabric with enough stretch *and* some cotton content is a chore from 
local sources, but the bigger problem (no pun intended) is that I need to 
size it up.  The pattern is basically two pieces, plus the waistband.  The 
main pattern piece is shaped like a fat wishbone or Y.

What is the best way to add some width to the pieces? The wearer will 
probably need additional room from calf to waist.

Thanks!
Denise B
Iowa 

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In a message dated 7/8/2007 2:47:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Hi,
I  dont know excactly when it was send, but it was shown on the danish  
television news, so it must have ben recent.



It was the fall Haute Couture line 2007....  no?




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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 16:10:55 +0200
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Status: RO

Ok ok ok, i surrender, but its just a show you know! I kind of like their 
outdone hair and huge hats, but they are not for walking in the wind, nor 
are the high heals very good for the feet, but i still think some of it is 
rather nice.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan" <sclark935@austin.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy4@comcast.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 7:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
>
>
>> At 05:14 AM 7/8/2007, you wrote:
>>>Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok 
>>>to send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks 
>>>fabulous, with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very 
>>>italian rennaissance fantasy to me.............
>>>http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm
>>
>>
>> Thanks, that was fun! A few things that made me gasp at their beauty,  a 
>> few that just made me gasp. (like the lime green bubble thing..)
>>
>> But what is the deal with all the models looking like the walking dead, 
>> or something out a Tim Burton movie? Eww.
>>
>> Dianne
>>
> The models all looked drugged out, and what was with the weird hats stuck 
> to the sides of their heads?
>
> Susan
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO


I am not even going to pretend to know exactly how to dissect how haute couture works, but the stuff in this show will trickle down to ready to wear.? You will see elements of it featured in various lines in the malls and discount stores, such as the beading, hem lengths, sleeve treatments, necklines, shoulder widths, accessories, etc..? Are we going peasant this year or more urban?? Are the lines of the skirts going to be short and clean or more flowing with tiers, or some of both?? 



I love watching how it works.



There was a scene in "The Devil Wears Prada" that sort of explained how the elements of haute couture worked their way into what average (real) women wear, and I thought that was very interesting.? 

Thanks for sharing this with us, Bjarne.? 

~Kimberley


-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix




 
In a message dated 7/8/2007 2:47:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Hi,
I  dont know excactly when it was send, but it was shown on the danish  
television news, so it must have ben recent.



It was the fall Haute Couture line 2007....  no?




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul  8 22:05:09 2007
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 20:04:10 -0600
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Status: RO

 From the Lacroix collection, it's hard to fathom how it will actually  
trickle down.  It's such a hodge podge of mostly unwearable garments.   
What common elements do you see, besides the outlandish hats?

Sylrog

On Jul 8, 2007, at 7:41 PM, chindora@aol.com wrote:

>
> I am not even going to pretend to know exactly how to dissect how  
> haute couture works, but the stuff in this show will trickle down to  
> ready to wear.? You will see elements of it featured in various lines  
> in the malls and discount stores, such as the beading, hem lengths,  
> sleeve treatments, necklines, shoulder widths, accessories, etc..? Are  
> we going peasant this year or more urban?? Are the lines of the skirts  
> going to be short and clean or more flowing with tiers, or some of  
> both??
>
>
>
> I love watching how it works.
>
>
>
> There was a scene in "The Devil Wears Prada" that sort of explained  
> how the elements of haute couture worked their way into what average  
> (real) women wear, and I thought that was very interesting.?
>
> Thanks for sharing this with us, Bjarne.?
>
> ~Kimberley
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 6:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2007 2:47:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> Hi,
> I  dont know excactly when it was send, but it was shown on the danish
> television news, so it must have ben recent.
>
>
>
> It was the fall Haute Couture line 2007....  no?
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at  
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's  
> free from AOL at AOL.com.
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 20:11:59 -0600
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Status: RO

Most of his ready to wear collection is pretty ugly, IMHO.  Looks like  
all we'll see in the stores this fall is are black and gray miniskirts.

Sylrog

On Jul 8, 2007, at 4:57 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 7/8/2007 1:35:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
>
> Here is  a sample of his ready wear,  Fall2007
> http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007RTW/complete/thumb/ 
> CLACRO
> IX
>
>
>
> Mmmmm..colorful!
>
> Not.
>
> But much more wearable.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at  
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] riding breeches
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 22:21:42 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For something like this where there's not one good place to slice it  
vertically, like you could do with a regular pair of pants, trace the  
pattern onto another piece of paper and draw several vertical lines  
(parallel with the grainline) at intervals across it.  Perhaps every  
3 or 4 inches.  Then slice the paper on these lines and spread the  
pieces apart on a larger piece of paper.  Usually you would be  
careful to keep them parallel, but if you need more room at the top  
than the bottom, you may wish to angle them evenly so that they're  
spread apart at the top but all touch at the bottom.  Make sure that  
the spaces between the pattern slices are all even at the top.  Trace  
out the new shape.  Slash and spread the other pattern pieces to the  
same degree (unless the waistband is a rectangle, in which case you  
can just lengthen it).  Make sure you transfer the grainline to the  
new pattern pieces.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Melanie Schuessler


On Jul 8, 2007, at 8:41 PM, Land of Oz wrote:

> I need to make a pair of these:
>
> http://www.suitability.com/item.cfm?catID=150&invID=739
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ytd9sa
>
> If that doesn't get you there, it's the women's stretch breech  
> pattern at suitability.com
>
> Finding fabric with enough stretch *and* some cotton content is a  
> chore from local sources, but the bigger problem (no pun intended)  
> is that I need to size it up.  The pattern is basically two pieces,  
> plus the waistband.  The main pattern piece is shaped like a fat  
> wishbone or Y.
>
> What is the best way to add some width to the pieces? The wearer  
> will probably need additional room from calf to waist.
>
> Thanks!
> Denise B
> Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  9 04:54:50 2007
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002201c7c140$7104dbc0$6ae73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 01:53:38 -0700
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Status: RO

I like the thing with the purple fur on the shoulders, but I didn't like the
fur part of it. And I agree with others, the bride looked dead. On the other
models, the makeup reminded me of 1920's silent movie actresses. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 2:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix

Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok to
send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks fabulous,
with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian
rennaissance fantasy to me.............
http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  9 05:03:42 2007
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	<027f01c7c1c1$f088bb10$52a73743@denise8541f2db>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] riding breeches
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 02:02:59 -0700
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Status: RO

Try cutting it on the bias for some stretch. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 5:42 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] riding breeches

I need to make a pair of these:

http://www.suitability.com/item.cfm?catID=150&invID=739

http://tinyurl.com/ytd9sa

If that doesn't get you there, it's the women's stretch breech pattern at
suitability.com

Finding fabric with enough stretch *and* some cotton content is a chore from
local sources, but the bigger problem (no pun intended) is that I need to
size it up.  The pattern is basically two pieces, plus the waistband.  The
main pattern piece is shaped like a fat wishbone or Y.

What is the best way to add some width to the pieces? The wearer will
probably need additional room from calf to waist.

Thanks!
Denise B
Iowa 

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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] riding breeches
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 05:27:20 -0500
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Status: RO

> For something like this where there's not one good place to slice it
vertically, like you could do with a regular pair of pants, trace the
pattern onto another piece of paper and draw several vertical lines
>

Thanks, I'll try that!

-0------------------


> Try cutting it on the bias for some stretch.
>

The fabric recommended is for 30% stretch in both directions.  Would you cut 
on the bias in addition?

I'm having trouble finding local fabric that stretches enough in both 
directions. The "muslin" copy can be anything, but the final product needs 
to be from fabric with as much cotton as possible. 100% synthetic won't do. 
The polyester knits have enough stretch, but making the "muslin" copy won't 
do much good if the final fabric doesn't stretch as much.

Denise 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] riding breeches
Message-ID: <1183987503.4692372fdbda9@webmail02.unl.edu>
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 08:25:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
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Status: RO


> The fabric recommended is for 30% stretch in both directions.  Would you
> cut 
> on the bias in addition?

I don't know that I'd reccommend cutting a knit on the bias, unless the pattern
directions indicate.

> I'm having trouble finding local fabric that stretches enough in both 
> directions. The "muslin" copy can be anything, but the final product needs 
> to be from fabric with as much cotton as possible. 100% synthetic won't do. 
> The polyester knits have enough stretch, but making the "muslin" copy won't 
> do much good if the final fabric doesn't stretch as much.

Do you care what the final fabric looks like?  I've got some (I believe) high
cotton content super stretchy fabric--in crazy huge black and white stripes.

Does it *need* to be a local fabric source?  Are you willing to buy online?    

> Denise 

Emma

http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Subject: [h-cost] leine question
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Status: RO

Hi everyone,

I'm making my first attempt at 16th
century Irish dress. Can anyone tell me
how big the wrist openings on a leine
are supposed to be? I don't want to do
the phony drawstring-on-top sleeves, but
I'd like to be able to roll them up if I
need to (it's a hot-weather event). Is a
drawstring at the wrist opening acceptable?
Thanks.

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] leine question
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Status: RO

Kind of depends on what you are doing this for.  Scottish, Irish?  How =
accurate are you trying to be?   Also, there is no absolute evidence for =
how they were made....

There are several decent starting summaries online, but depending on =
what you are doing this for, you may want to do your own research.

Here are a few. =20

http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/<http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/>
http://www.albanach.org/leine.html<http://www.albanach.org/leine.html>

Sg

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Maureen Conklin<mailto:morvren@hotmail.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 6:58 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] leine question


  Hi everyone,

  I'm making my first attempt at 16th
  century Irish dress. Can anyone tell me
  how big the wrist openings on a leine
  are supposed to be? I don't want to do
  the phony drawstring-on-top sleeves, but
  I'd like to be able to roll them up if I
  need to (it's a hot-weather event). Is a
  drawstring at the wrist opening acceptable?
  Thanks.

  ~ M.
  =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
  ~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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	<027f01c7c1c1$f088bb10$52a73743@denise8541f2db>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] riding breeches
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:26:06 -0700
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Status: RO

http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/th_toc_109.asp<http://www.taunton.com/=
store/pages/th_toc_109.asp>

Threads magazine has had a number of articles on making stretch active =
wear pants.  If I remember correctly, this one actually shows you how to =
make your own pattern sloper.  You can get a copy of the articles via =
interlibrary loan if your own local library doesn't have the magazine...

The articles usually have fabric source information as well.  I know you =
can buy this stuff online.

Saragrace=20




  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Land of Oz<mailto:landofoz@netins.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 5:41 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] riding breeches


  I need to make a pair of these:

  =
http://www.suitability.com/item.cfm?catID=3D150&invID=3D739<http://www.su=
itability.com/item.cfm?catID=3D150&invID=3D739>

  http://tinyurl.com/ytd9sa<http://tinyurl.com/ytd9sa>

  If that doesn't get you there, it's the women's stretch breech pattern =
at=20
  suitability.com

  Finding fabric with enough stretch *and* some cotton content is a =
chore from=20
  local sources, but the bigger problem (no pun intended) is that I need =
to=20
  size it up.  The pattern is basically two pieces, plus the waistband.  =
The=20
  main pattern piece is shaped like a fat wishbone or Y.

  What is the best way to add some width to the pieces? The wearer will=20
  probably need additional room from calf to waist.

  Thanks!
  Denise B
  Iowa=20

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] leine question
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 10:32:02 -0500
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Status: RO

My persona is Irish. I'll be doing body
puppeteering at a Renaissance faire, so
I don't think any patrons (except SCA
folks) are going to notice or care if I
have drawstrings at my wrists. Honestly,
I just don't want to shell out for a
pattern on top of the material I've
already bought; I'm not just making this
costume, but I'm also working on my
wedding gown. I've made several
shifts/chemises over the years, but never
one like this.

Thanks for the links; I've scoured them
pretty thoroughly and haven't found
anything about how the leine closed at
the wrist. Maybe I'll just say the heck with
it and put in drawstrings. Like I said, I
don't know if anyone will notice. :) Thanks
again.

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leine question
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:20:00 -0700

Kind of depends on what you are doing this for.  Scottish, Irish?  How 
accurate are you trying to be?   Also, there is no absolute evidence for how 
they were made....

There are several decent starting summaries online, but depending on what 
you are doing this for, you may want to do your own research.

Here are a few.

http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/<http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/>
http://www.albanach.org/leine.html<http://www.albanach.org/leine.html>

Sg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] leine question
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Status: RO

 
 

I'd recommend a look at the forums at _www.livinghistory.ie_ 
(http://www.livinghistory.ie) 
 
there are loads of people who know lots more than me about irish historical  
clothing (my knowledge of irish clothing specifically is a bit limited) -  
although I'd agree that there is no real hard and fast evidence about precise  
construction.





   
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Status: RO


Whoa, this is great! Thanks so much. :)

~ M.


==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Subject: [h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases
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Status: RO

Yeah, ok--BAD ARLYS!!! BAD, BAD, BAD!!!

Feel better now?

Me either. ;)

Had a question re: Eleanor of Toledo's gown--is her dress appliqued and
embroidered, or....?

Some books of interest. For full info, check out their website and/or
request a catalog. 
www.oxbowbooks.com

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580, reprinted 2007, 99.50.

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. A detailed study.
Trade pb $96.00; hb 228.

The Bertier-Delgarde Collection of Crimean Jewellery in the British
Museum and Related Material by Julia Andrasi.  A study of medieval
jewelry of the Crimea. Pb $60.00.

Late Antique and Medieval Gems--Jeffrey Spier. Covers through the
Renaissance. Hb $297.00.

a very non-apologetic Arlys
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases
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Status: RO

Quoting Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>:

> Yeah, ok--BAD ARLYS!!! BAD, BAD, BAD!!!
>
> Feel better now?
>
> Me either. ;)
>
> Had a question re: Eleanor of Toledo's gown--is her dress appliqued and
> embroidered, or....?

oh, no.  It's a pile fabric -- like Velvet.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] Another leine question
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Status: RO

I have an additional Leine question: on some of these sites, the sleeves are
pleated all the way up the arm--sometimes covered with trim.  I've also seen
them with drawstrings alone in the same area--both make a very pretty
presentation, but I'm wondering if they are documentable in period?  I have
some gorgeous saffron linen here that I really want to make into a leine,
but I'd like it to be as correct as possible.

Cheers,
Meli

On 7/9/07, Maureen and Saragrace commented:

>
> Kind of depends on what you are doing this for.  Scottish, Irish?  How
> accurate are you trying to be?   Also, there is no absolute evidence for how
> they were made....
>
> There are several decent starting summaries online, but depending on what
> you are doing this for, you may want to do your own research.
>
> Here are a few.
>
> http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/ <http://www.kelthaven.org/leine/>
> http://www.albanach.org/leine.html< http://www.albanach.org/leine.html>
>
> Sg
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>
>   Hi everyone,
>
>   I'm making my first attempt at 16th century Irish dress. Can anyone tell
> me
>   how big the wrist openings on a leine are supposed to be? I don't want
> to do
>   the phony drawstring-on-top sleeves, but I'd like to be able to roll
> them up if I
>   need to (it's a hot-weather event). Is a drawstring at the wrist opening
> acceptable?
>   Thanks.
>
>   ~ M.
>
>
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Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 12:58:30 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases
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Status: RO

I THINK I read it was a multi level velvet with gold bouclet (sp) woven into
it.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:32 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases


Yeah, ok--BAD ARLYS!!! BAD, BAD, BAD!!!

Feel better now?

Me either. ;)

Had a question re: Eleanor of Toledo's gown--is her dress appliqued and
embroidered, or....?

Some books of interest. For full info, check out their website and/or
request a catalog.
www.oxbowbooks.com

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580, reprinted 2007, 99.50.

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. A detailed study.
Trade pb $96.00; hb 228.

The Bertier-Delgarde Collection of Crimean Jewellery in the British
Museum and Related Material by Julia Andrasi.  A study of medieval
jewelry of the Crimea. Pb $60.00.

Late Antique and Medieval Gems--Jeffrey Spier. Covers through the
Renaissance. Hb $297.00.

a very non-apologetic Arlys
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another leine question
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Status: RO

At 12:58 PM 7/9/2007, you wrote:
>I've also seen
>them with drawstrings alone in the same area--both make a very pretty
>presentation, but I'm wondering if they are documentable in period?  I have
>some gorgeous saffron linen here that I really want to make into a leine,
>but I'd like it to be as correct as possible.


Drawstring sleeve leines are a Ren Faire invention. Pretty, but not accurate.

Dianne


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Status: RO

At 10:20 AM 7/9/2007, you wrote:

>   Hi everyone,
>
>   I'm making my first attempt at 16th
>   century Irish dress. Can anyone tell me
>   how big the wrist openings on a leine
>   are supposed to be? I don't want to do
>   the phony drawstring-on-top sleeves, but
>   I'd like to be able to roll them up if I
>   need to (it's a hot-weather event). Is a
>   drawstring at the wrist opening acceptable?
>   Thanks.


This is a bit earlier than requested, but he's done some very 
extensive research..

http://earlyirish.org/

He just got his laurel in the SCA for bard craft and this.

Genie



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leine question
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 14:02:31 -0500
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Status: RO

In all the pictures I have seen the cuff of the leine was not gathered. I
vaguely remember a few looked like the sleeve tapered to the wrist with an
approx. width opening that a splayed out hand could get through it.

A rough idea of one style of a leine
http://tinyurl.com/2ph8lh

It's been a long while since I have looked at the subject of the leine so
there may have been found some new info somewhere.

Side note, the neckline was not drawstringed. I would not rule out
drawstring totally as there may have been a 1% chance of their existance.
De




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From: "Maureen Conklin" <morvren@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another leine question
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 14:03:47 -0500
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Status: RO

According to Kass McGann at reconstructinghistory.com,
there's no evidence that pleating on the léine
included pleating on the top of the sleeve. The
ones I've seen done that way are very pretty,
though. It's hard to tell from the artwork, I guess,
because the women are shown with some sort
of oversleeve, either a regular wrist-length sleeve,
or a "hanging sleeve" that's open at the bottom
seam and fastened around the wrist; both kinds
of sleeve hide the top of the léine's sleeves.

So, this is part of the reason I'm stumped on
the sleeves: the artwork just doesn't show
enough of women's léinte for me to figure
out how the heck the sleeves end at the wrist.
The men's are easier because there are a
few examples from period illustrations showing
them from shoulder to wrist (or forearm,
more precisely). The Irish living history forum
has quite a bit of debate on men's léinte, but
nothing on women's.

I got a wonderful email off-list from one lady
who says she left her sleeves full, with no
gathering or cuff at the wrist.

One poster on the Irish site put it perfectly:
"I think the appropriate response to anything cocerning the leine is ARGH!"

:)

~ M.
>>"I have an additional Leine question: on some of these sites, the sleeves 
>>are
pleated all the way up the arm--sometimes covered with trim.  I've also seen
them with drawstrings alone in the same area--both make a very pretty
presentation, but I'm wondering if they are documentable in period?  I have
some gorgeous saffron linen here that I really want to make into a leine,
but I'd like it to be as correct as possible."

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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From: "Maureen Conklin" <morvren@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leine question
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Status: RO

"Side note, the neckline was not drawstringed. I would not rule out
drawstring totally as there may have been a 1% chance of their existance."

Yeah, I'm planning to pleat the neckline into a
plain bias band, as in the Italian chemise instructions
at festiveattyre.com. I know it's probably not the
correct technique, but it looks good. And hey --
pleats! :) I wish I felt I could justify spending $20 on
Ms. McGann's pattern, but I can't right now. Someday...

Thanks, De and Genie.

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~




----Original Message Follows----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leine question
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 14:02:31 -0500

In all the pictures I have seen the cuff of the leine was not gathered. I
vaguely remember a few looked like the sleeve tapered to the wrist with an
approx. width opening that a splayed out hand could get through it.

A rough idea of one style of a leine
http://tinyurl.com/2ph8lh

It's been a long while since I have looked at the subject of the leine so
there may have been found some new info somewhere.

Side note, the neckline was not drawstringed. I would not rule out
drawstring totally as there may have been a 1% chance of their existance.
De




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Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 12:03:46 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml2@MedievalScotland.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another leine question
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Status: RO

At 1:38 PM -0400 7/9/07, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
>At 12:58 PM 7/9/2007, you wrote:
>>I've also seen
>>them with drawstrings alone in the same area--both make a very pretty
>>presentation, but I'm wondering if they are documentable in period?  I have
>>some gorgeous saffron linen here that I really want to make into a leine,
>>but I'd like it to be as correct as possible.
>
>Drawstring sleeve leines are a Ren Faire invention. Pretty, but not accurate.

Likewise, pleating along the sleeves is a modern invention, based on 
the drawstring sleeves.

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, PhD  -  skrossa-ml2@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
    Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/
     Shopping Online? Help support! - http://MedievalScotland.org/patron/
The most complete index of reliable web articles about pre-1600 names:
    The Medieval Names Archive - http://www.s-gabriel.org/names/
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another leine question
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 14:19:22 -0500
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Status: RO

This is not Irish but perhaps may have been similar
 http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/portfolio.html

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/extcam4.htm


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another leine question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

As some have already commented, there is very little
info on what the Irish women wore (even far less on
what the Scottish highland/island women wore). Kass'
info is about the most well researched, and there are
other sites out there with more info as well, along
with a couple of books that pretty much hold the info
that is known about Irish dress in the 16th century;
Dress in Ireland, and one other whose long title
escapes me right now (it is in the linked page given
below).

When you get into making Irish garb for this time
frame, or earlier, it really is hit or miss, mostly
miss, as there is so very little info to know for
certain how accurate the garb will be. Even the
woodcuts I based a male friend's bard outfit on can be
documented, but those woodcuts are under suspicion as
to how accurate they might be, since they look so very
different than anyone else' images of the Irish (an
issue Kass and I went round on some years ago on this
list).
If you are interested in an alternate style of Irish
for men, here's my take on it.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/index.html
Note that the shorter sleeves was a request from my
friend, and definitely not documented. He later
regretted the shorter sleeve. As to how accurate,...
well only a time traveller or future evidence might
show the truth. But it was a good exploration.

Kimiko


--- Sharon Henderson <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
wrote:
> some gorgeous saffron linen here that I really want
> to make into a leine,
> but I'd like it to be as correct as possible.
> 
> Cheers,
> Meli



 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] riding breeches
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 18:19:05 -0700
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Status: RO

I was saying get cotton fabric, not knit, and try it on the bias. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 6:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] riding breeches


> The fabric recommended is for 30% stretch in both directions.  Would 
> you cut on the bias in addition?

I don't know that I'd reccommend cutting a knit on the bias, unless the
pattern directions indicate.

> I'm having trouble finding local fabric that stretches enough in both 
> directions. The "muslin" copy can be anything, but the final product 
> needs to be from fabric with as much cotton as possible. 100% synthetic
won't do.
> The polyester knits have enough stretch, but making the "muslin" copy 
> won't do much good if the final fabric doesn't stretch as much.

Do you care what the final fabric looks like?  I've got some (I believe)
high cotton content super stretchy fabric--in crazy huge black and white
stripes.

Does it *need* to be a local fabric source?  Are you willing to buy online?


> Denise

Emma

http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] 20th Cent. Paper Patterns Collection Online
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Status: RO


For 20th century enthusiasts, AHDS has published a collection home 
dressmaking patterns drawn from the collection at the london College of 
Fashion. (AHDS has other collections as well, including London CoF 
Woolmark Collection, Corwainer's Shoe Collection, etc.) The patter 
collection includes Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, and others with designers 
such as Laroche, Givenchy and Christian Dior.

To read about the collection: 
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/LCFPP.html

To search the collection, go to:
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/LCFPP.html

Click on the 'Deselect All' button, then check the box next to 'London 
College of Fashion: Paper Patterns'
You can search by garment type, pattern maker or date. Unfortunately 
there is no browse. However, if you just type an asterisk (*) in the 
search box you will get all 620 patterns.

And for those of us of a certain age, don't be surprised if you see a 
pattern there that you still may have in your attic!

- Hope

---------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, Academic Computing, U of Vermont
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 20th Cent. Paper Patterns Collection Online
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 10:44:38 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

This is neat--thanks!  For anyone interested in vintage patterns, you  
should also check out the Vintage Pattern Lending Library at
http://www.vpll.org/

Melanie Schuessler



On Jul 10, 2007, at 8:31 AM, Hope Greenberg wrote:

>
> For 20th century enthusiasts, AHDS has published a collection home  
> dressmaking patterns drawn from the collection at the london  
> College of Fashion. (AHDS has other collections as well, including  
> London CoF Woolmark Collection, Corwainer's Shoe Collection, etc.)  
> The patter collection includes Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, and  
> others with designers such as Laroche, Givenchy and Christian Dior.
>
> To read about the collection: http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/ 
> collections/LCFPP.html
>
> To search the collection, go to:
> http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/LCFPP.html
>
> Click on the 'Deselect All' button, then check the box next to  
> 'London College of Fashion: Paper Patterns'
> You can search by garment type, pattern maker or date.  
> Unfortunately there is no browse. However, if you just type an  
> asterisk (*) in the search box you will get all 620 patterns.
>
> And for those of us of a certain age, don't be surprised if you see  
> a pattern there that you still may have in your attic!
>
> - Hope
>
> ---------------
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, Academic Computing, U of Vermont
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 10 20:09:23 2007
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From: AVC <achasedesign@peoplepc.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Expedited passports (OT)
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Status: RO

This is OT. Not long ago some had information about expedited passports, their costs and time to get one. Could you please send that info to me at:

mimiathome@peoplepc.com

I've been costuming for over thirty years and can't afford to 'hang up my scissors' or do anything else.

But my youngest son, whose wife is a disabled vet, is about to lose their home. He needs to take a security position in the 'hot zone' after leaving the military last year. He served five assignments in that are and has had trouble finding employment that will keep his home together. They have two very young daughters 7 and 4.
Sorry to beg but I want to help anyway I can.

Sincerely, Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 20th Cent. Paper Patterns Collection Online
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Status: RO

I went to the second link, but could find no "Deselect all" button. Where is
it? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 5:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 20th Cent. Paper Patterns Collection Online


For 20th century enthusiasts, AHDS has published a collection home
dressmaking patterns drawn from the collection at the london College of
Fashion. (AHDS has other collections as well, including London CoF Woolmark
Collection, Corwainer's Shoe Collection, etc.) The patter collection
includes Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, and others with designers such as
Laroche, Givenchy and Christian Dior.

To read about the collection: 
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/LCFPP.html

To search the collection, go to:
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/LCFPP.html

Click on the 'Deselect All' button, then check the box next to 'London
College of Fashion: Paper Patterns'
You can search by garment type, pattern maker or date. Unfortunately there
is no browse. However, if you just type an asterisk (*) in the search box
you will get all 620 patterns.

And for those of us of a certain age, don't be surprised if you see a
pattern there that you still may have in your attic!

- Hope

---------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, Academic Computing, U of Vermont
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 20th Cent. Paper Patterns Collection Online
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Status: RO

Here's the more direct link (you can also get here from the "Search 
Images" link on the description page previously mentioned).
The list of all their collections and the Deselect All button is on this 
page.
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXDB_=vads&search-form=search.html&submit-button=search

- Hope

Sharon Collier wrote:
> I went to the second link, but could find no "Deselect all" button. Where is
> it? 
>
>   
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Subject: [h-cost] Where Did That Come From?
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Status: RO

Has anyone seen the show, "Where Did That Come From?" on the History =
Channel International?  I was watching the show tonight and the subject =
was Ancient Rome: The Rise of Apartments.  During this show, they showed =
the process to clean wool clothing with urine.  A professor showed the =
show's host the entire process of cleaning.  Pretty interesting!  They =
also covered the Roman baths at Bath England.   I wish I would have =
taped it.=20
The URL for the show is:
http://www.historyinternational.com/global/listings/series_showcase.jsp?E=
GrpType=3DSeries&Id=3D17762611&NetwCode=3DHCI=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where Did That Come From?
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Status: RO

Yes! I recently discovered the series and love it. :-) This particular
episode repeats on Saturday, July 14 at 7pm eastern time. 

It tickles me that the host sounds so much like John Stossel from 20/20.
Speech pattern is pretty much the same and intonation is very similar as
well.

The shows are well done, informative, and actually seem to have been
reasonably well researched.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 0:50 am
Subject: [h-cost] Where Did That Come From?
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> Has anyone seen the show, "Where Did That Come From?" on the 
> History Channel International?  I was watching the show tonight and 
> the subject was Ancient Rome: The Rise of Apartments.  During this 
> show, they showed the process to clean wool clothing with urine.  A 
> professor showed the show's host the entire process of cleaning.  
> Pretty interesting!  They also covered the Roman baths at Bath 
> England.   I wish I would have taped it. 
> The URL for the show is:
>
http://www.historyinternational.com/global/listings/series_showcase.jsp?EGrpType=Series&Id=17762611&NetwCode=HCI

> 
> Penny Ladnier, 
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where Did That Come From?
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Status: RO

Kate,

I can't wait for the WDTCF on Egypt next week.

I also enjoy the series, "How is that Made?"  I tape the fashion industry 
related parts of the show for my class.  Sometimes they provide a brief 
history and then the modern method of manufacture.  Last week or so, they 
showed how either cotton or wool is manufactured into thread or yarn.  I 
really enjoyed this section since I have been showing my students 
stereoviews of these types of factories from 1890-1910s.  Sometimes on 
Saturdays, the HITM will run four episodes back-to-back.  I think this 
series runs on Discovery Channel.  I have also seen it in the upper channels 
of my digital cable...  maybe the Science Channel.

I wish I had a videotape of my students' facial expressions, when they look 
at the stereoviews the first time through the stereoscope.  They are so 
amazed at the clarity and 3-D effect.  I tell the students to focus on 
something in the stereoview's far background.  I have one stereoview of 
sunbathers at Atlantic City Beach.  This image the students could look at 
for an hour.  There are a lot of people in the photos with parasols, men, 
women, and children' bathing suits in various styles. I hear from the 
students a lot of "OMG" from this image.  The students will get into a sort 
of competition over who can see what in the image.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

=20
The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and
Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I caught
it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)

The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able to
catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
its debut.

I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
costume pics for this film, accurate or not.

Cindy Abel
=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 13:59:15 -0400
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Status: RO


Yep, here is a little more info on it.? I got a peek at the trailer last week through a friend's livejournal and promptly posted it on my own livejournal and myspace pages.? I can't wait to see it myself.? I heard through someone that it had already shown, or part of it had, at a film festival in Italy and had received a standing ovation, but I have no idea as to the veracity of that as I have not read it in print myself.



http://www.workingtitlefilms.com/film.php?filmID=102

~Kimberley








-----Original Message-----
From: Abel, Cynthia <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 1:48 pm
Subject: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)



 
The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and
Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I caught
it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)

The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able to
catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
its debut.

I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
costume pics for this film, accurate or not.

Cindy Abel
 
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>
>The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and
>Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I caught
>it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
>Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
>
>The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
>mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
>set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
>Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able to
>catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
>its debut.
>
>I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
>costume pics for this film, accurate or not.


It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the 
pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)

Suzi
   

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

Thanks Kimberley, i will surely look forwards to that two.
My Elizabeth R video is torned up, i have to buy the DVD, i love it so much. 
Thats why i have worned out the tape........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <chindora@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)


>
> Yep, here is a little more info on it.? I got a peek at the trailer last 
> week through a friend's livejournal and promptly posted it on my own 
> livejournal and myspace pages.? I can't wait to see it myself.? I heard 
> through someone that it had already shown, or part of it had, at a film 
> festival in Italy and had received a standing ovation, but I have no idea 
> as to the veracity of that as I have not read it in print myself.
>
>
>
> http://www.workingtitlefilms.com/film.php?filmID=102
>
> ~Kimberley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Abel, Cynthia <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 1:48 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
>
>
>
>
> The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and
> Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I caught
> it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
> Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
>
> The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
> mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
> set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
> Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able to
> catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
> its debut.
>
> I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
> costume pics for this film, accurate or not.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free 
> from AOL at AOL.com.
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here's the official website with trailer
http://www.elizabeththegoldenage.net/

I expect the history to be just as horrible as the
last one, but hey, clive Owen as Walter Raleigh, how
can I miss it.

MaggiRos



--- "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:

>  
> The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring
> Cate Blanchette and
> Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its
> first trailer. I caught
> it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through
> 45+ minutes of Paris
> Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
> 
> The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but
> historical accuracy
> mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do
> appreciate how they
> set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is
> is that it will be
> Dec or later before most of us outside "major"
> cities will be able to
> catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week
> or two later before
> its debut.
> 
> I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so
> I can drool over
> costume pics for this film, accurate or not.
> 
> Cindy Abel
>  
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 20:45:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

At 20:34 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>Here's the official website with trailer
>http://www.elizabeththegoldenage.net/
>
>I expect the history to be just as horrible as the
>last one, but hey, clive Owen as Walter Raleigh, how
>can I miss it.
>
>MaggiRos

Oh, dear, an Ascot hat, an Edwardian collar, and see through 
shoulders. Not my kind of historical movie. Give me Pirates of the 
Caribbean any time - at least it didn't pretend to be historical!

Suzi

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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:06:11 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/11/2007 3:46:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Oh,  dear, an Ascot hat, an Edwardian collar, and see through  
shoulders.


***********
 
I know!
And of course the dreaded but all too common unbuttoned doublet syndrome on  
the men. [Some of my favorite movies have that!]
 
At the end she'll run off with Sir Walter to the Lost Colony...
 
oh wait...didn't Joan Collins already do that?  :-P



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:58:10 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

At least it looks less painful than the original.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 3:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)


At 20:34 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>Here's the official website with trailer
>http://www.elizabeththegoldenage.net/
>
>I expect the history to be just as horrible as the
>last one, but hey, clive Owen as Walter Raleigh, how
>can I miss it.
>
>MaggiRos

Oh, dear, an Ascot hat, an Edwardian collar, and see through 
shoulders. Not my kind of historical movie. Give me Pirates of the 
Caribbean any time - at least it didn't pretend to be historical!

Suzi

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Status: RO


If Lisa Sinervo is still on the list, or if anyone knows how to get in t=
ouch with her, could you please contact me at:
seamstrix(at)juno.com
Thanks!
Karen
Seamstrix

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:36:24 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Well, the real Elizabeth I was about 54 during the time this film was
set, and whether Cate Blanchette wanted to or not, I bet the studio big
wigs nixed the idea to make her look that age. "Just make her look like
she's had bad plastic surgery and think "Bram Stoker's Dracula" when
designing the costumes and wigs, okay, cause that was just the coolest
movie when I was twelve" I can imagine studio exec in charge of
marketing saying.

Like I said, I can appreciate what the studio was driving at. But the
real Elizabeth didn't show up at Tilbury in white and silver and long
hair flowing. Neat visual, though, for this film.

Want reasonably historical costumes and history--see Elizabeth R with
Glenda Jackson.

Cindy Abel

=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 2:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)

At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>
>The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and=20
>Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I=20
>caught it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes=20
>of Paris Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
>
>The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy=20
>mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how=20
>they set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will

>be Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able=20
>to catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later=20
>before its debut.
>
>I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over=20
>costume pics for this film, accurate or not.


It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the
pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)

Suzi
  =20

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>It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the 
>pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)

>Suzi


I knew that dreadful look was familiar.  Yuk!!
I would love to know what inspired that!  Does anyone know who the costume
designer is on this movie?

Anne
   


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Status: RO

On Jul 11, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Anne Moeller wrote:
>> It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the
>> pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)
>
>> Suzi
>
>
> I knew that dreadful look was familiar.  Yuk!!
> I would love to know what inspired that!  Does anyone know who the  
> costume
> designer is on this movie?

the funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one  
of the more historically-consistent designs in that film...

andy
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

At 01:45 12/07/2007, you wrote:
>On Jul 11, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Anne Moeller wrote:
>>>It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the
>>>pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)
>>
>>>Suzi
>>
>>
>>I knew that dreadful look was familiar.  Yuk!!
>>I would love to know what inspired that!  Does anyone know who the
>>costume
>>designer is on this movie?
>
>the funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one
>of the more historically-consistent designs in that film...

Really? What period?

Suzi

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 13:12:32 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I think that historical accuracy is becoming less important in films,
because a lot of minds in the film industry think accuracy has to go out
the window in terms of the current aesthetic, budget, and the stars have
to look good. It has always been so, but accurate as possible seems to
equate with dull, academic, and very PBS. Compare the costumes in
Elizabeth R with any Tudor-set film before or since. Not totally
accurate, but reasonably close.

Even Bette Davis when she played the aging QE1 in a film horrified the
studio boses by shaving her head and insisting on being made-up to
reflect E's age circa 1600. And sometimes the stars want to look
good--you want more authentic--check out the extras in the background.
Even in a "Man for All Seasons" has a 60's vibe--costumes seen in dull
earth colors-(because it was generally thought back then only the very
wealthy had bright rich colors and the somber mood of the film with the
Mores as mostly noble and honest persons equalled "honest" earth colors)
and everyone has that "healthy tan" makeup of the 60's for the natural
look!

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Jean Waddie
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote
>At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>>
>>The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and=20
>>Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I=20
>>caught it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes

>>of Paris Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
>>
>>The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy=20
>>mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how=20
>>they set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it=20
>>will be Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be=20
>>able to catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two=20
>>later before its debut.
>>
>>I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over=20
>>costume pics for this film, accurate or not.
>
>
>It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the=20
>pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)
>
>Suzi
>
It's certainly an interesting mis-interpretation of that 15th century
style of headdress.  The doily in the middle makes her look like a
butterfly cake!

Jean
--
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 01:45 12/07/2007, you wrote:
>> On Jul 11, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Anne Moeller wrote:
>>>> It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the
>>>> pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)
>>>
>>>> Suzi
>>>
>>>
>>> I knew that dreadful look was familiar.  Yuk!!
>>> I would love to know what inspired that!  Does anyone know who the
>>> costume
>>> designer is on this movie?
>>
>> the funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one
>> of the more historically-consistent designs in that film...
>
> Really? What period?
I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair 
(yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume.

andy

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote
>At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote:
>>
>>The sequel to the 1998 film "Elizabeth", starring Cate Blanchette and
>>Geoffrey Rush, "The Golden Age" has released its first trailer. I caught
>>it on "E" channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
>>Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)
>>
>>The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
>>mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
>>set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
>>Dec or later before most of us outside "major" cities will be able to
>>catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
>>its debut.
>>
>>I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
>>costume pics for this film, accurate or not.
>
>
>It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in "Dracula" in one of the 
>pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)
>
>Suzi
>
It's certainly an interesting mis-interpretation of that 15th century 
style of headdress.  The doily in the middle makes her look like a 
butterfly cake!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Status: RO

ALUMINUM SWAN GARB COMPETITION

Sometimes you feel like an authenticity nut, and well, sometimes you =
don't.=20
In recognition of those times when you don't, the Pre-Raphaelite Garb =
Yahoo=20
list is instituting the Aluminum Swan Award, to honor the best =
NON-authentic=20
garb.

Taking our inspiration from the romanticized Victorian Pre-Raphaelite=20
depictions of medieval clothing--and from Victorian costume books in=20
general--the Pre-Raph list relishes the clothing that you thought was=20
historical, before you knew better. The Aluminum Swan Award will be won =
by=20
the person who does the best job of depicting those youthful medieval=20
fantasies.

If you were costuming the Lord of the Rings movies, what would you make? =
 If=20
you were the Princess Bride, what would you wear to the wedding?  When =
you=20
picture a damsel in distress, what does her gown look like?  Are =
Rapunzel's=20
dresses as long as her tresses?  What does a knight in shining armor =
wear=20
when he's lounging around the castle?


Guidelines:
-- The clothing should look as though it's from the medieval or =
renaissance=20
period to the uneducated eye.
-- You may use any fabric you wish, including rayon, polyester, stretch=20
crushed velvet, gold lame, and the like.
-- You may use any modern construction techniques you want, including=20
machine sewing, serging, iron-on interfacing, and so on.
-- You may purchase parts or props for your outfit, but the majority =
must be=20
made by you.
-- You may use elements from pre-existing garments or outfits, but may =
not=20
re-use a pre-existing outfit without significantly updating it =
specifically=20
for this contest.
-- Several people may collaborate to submit a group entry.

Entries will be judged by myself, taking into account both popular =
acclaim=20
and the following criteria:
-- How medieval(oid) is the overall effect?
-- Would you fit in well at a Victorian fancy dress party?
-- Have you taken recognizeable elements from real medieval or =
renaissance=20
clothing and rearranged them to suit your own taste and/or the tastes of =

modern (or Victorian) fashion?
-- How complex is the outfit?
-- How creative is the concept?
Extra credit will be awarded to anyone who can prove they've worn their=20
entry in public, especially at a medieval or renaissance-themed event.

All participants will receive an origami swan made of aluminum foil, and =
the=20
winner will receive an award token as well as their choice of =
Pre-Raphaelite=20
poster from
http://www.allposters.com/-st/The-Pre-Raphaelite-Brotherhood-Posters_c211=
2_.htm
up to $35 including S&H (or a $35 gift certificate towards the purchase =
of a=20
more expensive poster).  If a group wins, each member will receive an =
award=20
token, but only one gift certificate will be awarded.

To enter, please send:
-- pictures of your outfit
-- a short write-up
-- your contact info including your address
-- written permission to display your images on the Pre-Raphaelite Garb =
list=20
for judging as well as on a website displaying the contest participant =
and=20
winner

To:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PreRaphaeliteGarb/
or directly to me, at formfunc (at) formfunction.org.
Entries must be submitted by Oct 1, 2007.  Winner will be announced Oct =
15,=20
2007, or at my convenience.

-E House, List Owner, Pre-Raphaelite Garb=20
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 12 17:12:03 2007
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From: "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:39:28 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century German "hosen"
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Status: RO

Greetings:  I'm new to the list and really seeking resources on quite
specific time periods and people.  I am hoping somewhere out there someone
will have some answers, as I haven't stumbled across anything in my travels.
What I am looking for today is information on what the average rural German
(and to be more specific, we can say Saxon or Silesian) may have worn in the
17th through approximately mid 18th century in terms of
pants/trousers/breeches/hosen.  We've been having a discussion here at my
place of employ, which interprets a specific Pennsylvania German group,
about trousers during this period, as at least initially the trousers were
most likely the same for the immigrants in PA as they were for their kinsman
in the homeland.
My colleague seems to think they could not have worn breeches, as their
English counterparts might have here in the colonies.  To him it seems far
too formal for a farmer to be wearing breeches, but frankly I don't know
otherwise.  We have no artifact record to turn to, unfortunately, except for
that of a more formal nature.  It has been long accepted that the costume of
the local rural German speaking man in the late 18th century would have
included breeches, but my colleague questions this, and I can see his point.
Was there some sort of loose fitting pants with pockets the average working
German Joe would have worn?  We're not talking "peasant" but more of a small
landowning farmer or craftsman.  Not an impoverished type by any means.
(please forgive my use of terminology with trousers/pants etc.)
Thanks so much for your time and thoughts,
Candace Perry
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center
Pennsburg, PA


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> 
> Guidelines:
> -- The clothing should look as though it's from the medieval or renaissance 
> period to the uneducated eye.
> -- You may use any fabric you wish, including rayon, polyester, stretch 
> crushed velvet, gold lame, and the like.

Oooooh! I've got some lime green crushed stretch velvet and multicolour 
silver tinsel trim just WAITING for a project like this!



Dawn



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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Oooooh! I've got some lime green crushed stretch velvet and multicolour 
> silver tinsel trim just WAITING for a project like this!

Do it do it do it!  I wish I could enter.  I have several "vintage" (read: 
low-budget 70s & 80s) saris that should really be turned into something...

Ok, so just because I can't enter, doesn't mean I can't make something!

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/12/2007 3:23:43 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

the  funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one
>of the  more historically-consistent designs in that film...

Really? What  period?



**************
 
Mid to late Chinese Drag Queen.
 
Bram Stoker's Dracula ["They can't blame this mess on Bram Stoker!"] is one  
of those films I love to hate. The costumes, though individually beautiful, 
are  the worst. Except for maybe "Amedeus". They're individually  tasteless.



************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:00:46 GMT
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century German "hosen"
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Status: RO

I'm more familiar with the latter half of the 18th century, but as far a=
s I know, breeches were standard for all European men. The ones for a wo=
rking man might be made of coarser stuff and not nearly as fitted, but t=
hey were breeches none the less. =

I'm sure you've already considered it, but the best source I know for dr=
ess specific to Pennsylvania is "Rural Pennsylvania Clothing" by Ellen G=
ehret. =

 =

Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com> wrote:
Greetings:  I'm new to the list and really seeking resources on quite
specific time periods and people.  I am hoping somewhere out there someo=
ne
will have some answers, as I haven't stumbled across anything in my trav=
els.
What I am looking for today is information on what the average rural Ger=
man
(and to be more specific, we can say Saxon or Silesian) may have worn in=
 the
17th through approximately mid 18th century in terms of
pants/trousers/breeches/hosen.  We've been having a discussion here at m=
y
place of employ, which interprets a specific Pennsylvania German group,
about trousers during this period, as at least initially the trousers we=
re
most likely the same for the immigrants in PA as they were for their kin=
sman
in the homeland.
My colleague seems to think they could not have worn breeches, as their
English counterparts might have here in the colonies.  To him it seems f=
ar
too formal for a farmer to be wearing breeches, but frankly I don't know=

otherwise.  We have no artifact record to turn to, unfortunately, except=
 for
that of a more formal nature.  It has been long accepted that the costum=
e of
the local rural German speaking man in the late 18th century would have
included breeches, but my colleague questions this, and I can see his po=
int.
Was there some sort of loose fitting pants with pockets the average work=
ing
German Joe would have worn?  We're not talking "peasant" but more of a s=
mall
landowning farmer or craftsman.  Not an impoverished type by any means.
(please forgive my use of terminology with trousers/pants etc.)
Thanks so much for your time and thoughts,
Candace Perry
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center
Pennsburg, PA


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century German "hosen"
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:21:08 -0500
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Status: RO

You should look for German Baroque artists.
For a start;
Johan Liss, early 1600s
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Johann_Liss

The Bildindex seems to be having problems so wait a day and try them.
De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings:  I'm new to the list and really seeking resources on quite
specific time periods and people.  I am hoping somewhere out there someone
will have some answers, as I haven't stumbled across anything in my travels.
What I am looking for today is information on what the average rural German
(and to be more specific, we can say Saxon or Silesian) may have worn in the
17th through approximately mid 18th century in terms of
pants/trousers/breeches/hosen.  We've been having a discussion here at my
place of employ, which interprets a specific Pennsylvania German group,
about trousers during this period, as at least initially the trousers were
most likely the same for the immigrants in PA as they were for their kinsman
in the homeland.
My colleague seems to think they could not have worn breeches, as their
English counterparts might have here in the colonies.  To him it seems far
too formal for a farmer to be wearing breeches, but frankly I don't know
otherwise.  We have no artifact record to turn to, unfortunately, except for
that of a more formal nature.  It has been long accepted that the costume of
the local rural German speaking man in the late 18th century would have
included breeches, but my colleague questions this, and I can see his point.
Was there some sort of loose fitting pants with pockets the average working
German Joe would have worn?  We're not talking "peasant" but more of a small
landowning farmer or craftsman.  Not an impoverished type by any means.
(please forgive my use of terminology with trousers/pants etc.)
Thanks so much for your time and thoughts,
Candace Perry
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center
Pennsburg, PA


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Thanks to all of you who helped Rob find a reliable passport source. His is in the works.
Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <012b01c7c4be$ae69ad20$9c00a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Aluminum Swan Garb Competition
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 01:22:37 -0700
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Status: RO

Dang! I have the perfect dress. I made it in college. It was supposed to be
a Renaissance dress. It is of turquoise knit sleeves and skirt, with bright
blue cotton-poly bodice, trimmed with machine made flower trim. All machine
sewn and a LONG zipper in back. The French hood was the crescent only, made
of cardboard, with material glued on and jewels and trim attached with hot
melt glue. I kept it for my kids to play dress up.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:56 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Aluminum Swan Garb Competition

ALUMINUM SWAN GARB COMPETITION

Sometimes you feel like an authenticity nut, and well, sometimes you don't. 
In recognition of those times when you don't, the Pre-Raphaelite Garb Yahoo
list is instituting the Aluminum Swan Award, to honor the best NON-authentic
garb.

Taking our inspiration from the romanticized Victorian Pre-Raphaelite
depictions of medieval clothing--and from Victorian costume books in
general--the Pre-Raph list relishes the clothing that you thought was
historical, before you knew better. The Aluminum Swan Award will be won by
the person who does the best job of depicting those youthful medieval
fantasies.

If you were costuming the Lord of the Rings movies, what would you make?  If
you were the Princess Bride, what would you wear to the wedding?  When you
picture a damsel in distress, what does her gown look like?  Are Rapunzel's
dresses as long as her tresses?  What does a knight in shining armor wear
when he's lounging around the castle?


Guidelines:
-- The clothing should look as though it's from the medieval or renaissance
period to the uneducated eye.
-- You may use any fabric you wish, including rayon, polyester, stretch
crushed velvet, gold lame, and the like.
-- You may use any modern construction techniques you want, including
machine sewing, serging, iron-on interfacing, and so on.
-- You may purchase parts or props for your outfit, but the majority must be
made by you.
-- You may use elements from pre-existing garments or outfits, but may not
re-use a pre-existing outfit without significantly updating it specifically
for this contest.
-- Several people may collaborate to submit a group entry.

Entries will be judged by myself, taking into account both popular acclaim
and the following criteria:
-- How medieval(oid) is the overall effect?
-- Would you fit in well at a Victorian fancy dress party?
-- Have you taken recognizeable elements from real medieval or renaissance
clothing and rearranged them to suit your own taste and/or the tastes of
modern (or Victorian) fashion?
-- How complex is the outfit?
-- How creative is the concept?
Extra credit will be awarded to anyone who can prove they've worn their
entry in public, especially at a medieval or renaissance-themed event.

All participants will receive an origami swan made of aluminum foil, and the
winner will receive an award token as well as their choice of Pre-Raphaelite
poster from
http://www.allposters.com/-st/The-Pre-Raphaelite-Brotherhood-Posters_c2112_.
htm
up to $35 including S&H (or a $35 gift certificate towards the purchase of a
more expensive poster).  If a group wins, each member will receive an award
token, but only one gift certificate will be awarded.

To enter, please send:
-- pictures of your outfit
-- a short write-up
-- your contact info including your address
-- written permission to display your images on the Pre-Raphaelite Garb list
for judging as well as on a website displaying the contest participant and
winner

To:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PreRaphaeliteGarb/
or directly to me, at formfunc (at) formfunction.org.
Entries must be submitted by Oct 1, 2007.  Winner will be announced Oct 15,
2007, or at my convenience.

-E House, List Owner, Pre-Raphaelite Garb
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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 23:10:51 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

> > Really? What period?
> I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair
> (yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume.

I'm pretty sure the book of the costumes said they were based on
Kabuki costume rather than anything European. That said Lucy's wedding
dress I'm sure was based on a portrait in 20,000 Years of Fashion and
is early-mid 17thC. I just saw it again recently online.... I also
found a similar painting which shows it was a fashion of some
particular place and time. And the book said it was based on something
else.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b12a.jpg
And the similar portrait:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b11a.jpg

Micahela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 12:36:18 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
In-Reply-To: <73fb7a5f0707130410h4de5222bhaad8f9c893fffac3@mail.gmail.co
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Status: RO

At 12:10 13/07/2007, you wrote:
>> > Really? What period?
>>I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair
>>(yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume.
>
>I'm pretty sure the book of the costumes said they were based on
>Kabuki costume rather than anything European. That said Lucy's wedding
>dress I'm sure was based on a portrait in 20,000 Years of Fashion and
>is early-mid 17thC. I just saw it again recently online.... I also
>found a similar painting which shows it was a fashion of some
>particular place and time.

And the same artist too. I recognised that in the film - nothing to 
do with Romania, Transylvania, and the 19th century, but hey, this is 
fiction, right?

>  And the book said it was based on something
>else.
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b12a.jpg
>And the similar portrait:
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b11a.jpg
>
>Micahela de Bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:42:17 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/13/2007 7:37:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

nothing  to 
do with Romania, Transylvania, and the 19th century, but hey, this is  
fiction, right?



********************
 
Then don't, at the beginning of the film, put up a date in 20 ft high  
numbers:
 
1898
 
 



************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 13:57:51 +0200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

Hi,

at school, we=B4ve got a book of Eiko Ishioka=B4s=20
work with lots of pictures from all the movies=20
she made. I remember having seen a picture of=20
Lucy with fangs in her wedding dress next to the=20
photo of an angry Australian lizard. Apparently,=20
the inspiration for the ruff was not only from a=20
historical source. However, I think it=B4s a great=20
idea to dress a vampire like a reptile!

Hanna


At 13:36 13.07.2007, you wrote:
>At 12:10 13/07/2007, you wrote:
>>> > Really? What period?
>>>I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair
>>>(yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume.
>>
>>I'm pretty sure the book of the costumes said they were based on
>>Kabuki costume rather than anything European. That said Lucy's wedding
>>dress I'm sure was based on a portrait in 20,000 Years of Fashion and
>>is early-mid 17thC. I just saw it again recently online.... I also
>>found a similar painting which shows it was a fashion of some
>>particular place and time.
>
>And the same artist too. I recognised that in=20
>the film - nothing to do with Romania,=20
>Transylvania, and the 19th century, but hey, this is fiction, right?
>
>>  And the book said it was based on something
>>else.
>>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b12a.jpg
>>And the similar portrait:
>>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi06985b11a.jpg
>>
>>Micahela de Bruce
>>http://glittersweet.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 09:04:17 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Jul 13, 2007, at 7:42 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
> Then don't, at the beginning of the film, put up a date in 20 ft high
> numbers:
>
> 1898

Yes.  It's one thing to have some fantasy-based costumes in a vampire  
film (though perhaps we shouldn't talk about the strapless orange  
chiffon nightie...), but when you have a particular date, things that  
are quite accurate for another date are confusing.  Mina's big  
bustles were awfully out of style for 1898!

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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Status: RO

=20
In a message dated 7/13/2007 7:58:19 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
h.zickermann@gmx.de writes:

However,  I think it=B4s a great=20
idea to dress a vampire like a  reptile!



***************
=20
I agree. But without foreknowledge of her idea... the costume has nothing  t=
o=20
do with conveying anything reptilian.=20
Now, how does she explain making Dracula look like Leon Russell?
=20
The problem with that film goes way beyond the costumes. For one it's "Bram=20=
=20
Stoker's" Dracula.... they made a big noise about following the book. Then =20=
the
 very 1st scene and sequence in the film is NOT in the book. Hmmmmm...looks=20=
=20
like trouble ahead. And it is. There are some very interesting ideas in the=20=
=20
film, but it comes across as if the producers and powers that be thought EVE=
RY =20
idea they had was fabulous and we'd just love them too. There's no tightenin=
g=20
of  ideas and concepts. It's literally all over the place. And, no, we don't=
=20
love  them all. There's something tragically wrong with every shot....and it=
's=20
 different in each mistake.



************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL a=
t=20
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Subject: [h-cost] Movies Re:  The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
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--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
> 
> nothing  to do with Romania, Transylvania, and the
> 19th century, but hey, this is fiction, right?
> 
> ********************
>  
> Then don't, at the beginning of the film, put up a
> date in 20 ft high numbers:
>  
> 1898

Ah, like The League of Extrodinary Gentlemen (or
whatever its actual title is).  Big date re: 1890s,
Tom Sawyer as the ingenue and a bunch of creepy
characters.

But Tom Sawyer was 10-14 in the 1850s.  He's still an
young innocent in the 1890s?!?  Eat your heart out,
Dorian Gray.

Which movie I enjoyed and enjoyed the costumes, but
entirely separately from any historical implications.

Ann in CT
not lightning!!


 
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Status: RO

Now that I have regained my seat after falling out of it laughing uncontrollably; could someone help me find the historical references for Mid to Late Chinese Drag Queen? { Good one, Marc.}

Jodi

       
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Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
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Subject: [h-cost] Job opening, Cincinnati
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Status: RO


This sounds perfect for a listmember. (If I were younger and independent,
I'd go for it myself!)

This was forwarded to me, and I know nothing beyond what is below, so
don't ask me.

---------- Forwarded message ----------

TECHNICIAN SOUGHT IN OHIO: The Cincinnati Art Museum is looking for a
costume preparator/technician to assist in restoration, costume mounting,
photography, and installation of a major costume exhibition. This position
requires fine hand sewing skills, basic pattern making and draping skills,
excellent writing skills, and a candidate who can work collaboratively.
This is a full-time temporary position which needs to be filled as soon as
possible and continues until April 2010. If interested, send resume,
references and salary requirements to the HR Department, Cincinnati Art
Museum, 953 Eden Park Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45202. Fax 513.639.2881
Mailto:humanresources@cincyart.org

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Status: RO

Hi -

I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to 
visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area, 
if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a 
fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?

For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally 
suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.

Thanks.

- Hope

------------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shopping recommendations
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Status: RO

Well, I don't know if they are still there (we moved
east 15 years ago) but there used to be a couple of
silk warehouses in the LA garment district. Some of
the local folks can probably say for sure. Twenty
years ago I bought some really excellent Chinese silk
for a really excellent price. I couldn't tell you the
per yard now, but I spent only $50 total and still
have some left. I think it averaged out to about
$1.50/yd.

I know I managed to get two wedding gowns, some happy
coats and a bunch of pillows from the remnants.  I
hope it is still there. One day I will get back out
there to visit my in-laws in Laguna Niguel and take a
side trip to LA.

--- Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:

> Hi -
> 
> I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week
> and am determined to 
> visit at least one fabric store! So, in San
> Francisco or in the LA area, 
> if you could visit one fabric store where you could
> be assured of a 
> fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
> 
> For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc.,
> things generally 
> suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> - Hope
> 
> ------------------
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Status: RO

San Francisco:

The Silk Trading Company: Not a bargain outlet, but if you get any 
chance visit the Silk Trading Company, which BTW is not open on 
weekends.  This is a huge, warehouse-sized store crammed with fancy 
silks, silks, silks (especially, all kinds of taffetas, including ones 
with historic-styled allover embroidery). It's the kind of store you 
walk around with your jaw dropping open the whole time.

Britex:  This is also not a bargain store, but it is a big, 
full-to-overflowing, four-story fabric store in downtown San Francisco. 
  They specialize in high-quality and hard-to-find fabrics of all kinds. 
  When I was writing sewing articles regularly for _Sew News_, and the 
editors came out here once, they said at dinner that they personally 
ranked Britex as the second-best fabric store in the US. (They traveled 
around a lot for business, and went to every fabric store they could in 
every city they visited. The best, they said, was G Street Fabrics in 
what I understand was its heyday.  I've never been to G Street, but 
people say it's changed.)

Satin Moon:  This is a small, but crammed, fabric store in a major 
restaurant district of SF, which means you may have trouble parking. 
(But you definitely will not have any trouble finding a place to eat, as 
the district has several restaurants per block for a long stretch.) 
Satin Moon carries good-quality fabrics and an interesting selection, 
things you don't see in other local fabric stores.

There are a number of other fabric stores in San Francisco, but I see 
these as the best ones.  There are some little quilting fabric stores in 
the Bay Area, but you can find those anywhere, and as for Jo-Ann's  . . .

Outside San Francisco, but in the Bay Area:

Thai Silks: This store is south of San Francisco, in Los Altos. They 
specialize in bargain silks, as bargains go around here. They have a 
pretty good selection, especially if you either want something fairly 
basic, or those rather heavy Chinese brocades that have a rayon back and 
a silk face (those brocades are, however, pretty easy to buy around here).

Poppy Fabrics: This store is across the bay, on the border between 
Berkeley and Oakland. Poppy is a large store that lately seems to 
specialize more in home-dec and evening wear fabrics--but that of course 
means many fabrics of interest to historic costumers.  (Years ago, they 
were a quilting fabric store specializing in tiny cotton prints.)

StoneMountain and Daughter: In Berkeley.  A small store, with a good 
selection of fairly "ordinary" fabrics.  They used to be a great 
discount store, but not any more, probably because a big Discount 
Fabrics moved into the area (see below).

Discount Fabrics:  In Berkeley.  This is actually a chain, and there are 
several other local stores. But somehow I only ever seem to go to the 
one in Berkeley. (It's on the way home from my dentist's and I go every 
time I have my teeth cleaned.) This Discount Fabrics is very large. 
They actually carry both racks and racks of sketchily labeled fabrics of 
all kinds and all levels of desirability, and some that are not 
discounted, but which they seem to stock regularly. They regularly stock 
a good selection of dupionis--they are nice dupionis, but the prices are 
the same as everywhere else locally. They also always have bolts of silk 
necktie fabrics, which I think are discounted, but since I seldom see 
necktie fabrics for sale, I'm not sure what the going prices are.

Discount Fabrics is a serendipity shopping store--you either don't see 
anything you'd even dream of buying, or you find something great. I 
bought a whole bolt of great cream-colored sheer embroidered muslin 
there once.  (They'll happily sell to you buy the yard though.)

There are some other fabric stores in the East Bay, but I don't go to 
them, or not much. Aside from the quilting stores:

There is a discount upholstery/drapery fabric store called Kay's 
somewhere in Oakland. Or at least there used to be. I haven't been in a 
long time.  It used to be a good place to get discounted historic style 
brocades.

Someone on h-costume--Theresa Ecker???--once pointed me to a huge and 
really great upholstery/drapery discount store in San Mateo. I think. It 
was somewhere, somewhat, south of San Francisco. She said they had some 
great embroidered silk taffetas. I went there. I bought some great 
embroidered silk taffeta.  Then I lost the store name and address and 
haven't been there since.  Maybe someone on the list knows which store I 
mean?

The North Bay, Marin County, probably also has fabric stores, but I 
haven't been to the North Bay in years.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Hope Greenberg wrote:

> Hi -
> 
> I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to 
> visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area, 
> if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a 
> fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
> 
> For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally 
> suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> - Hope
> 
> ------------------
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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If you to go Berkeley, you might want to go to University Avenue, where, 
stretched out over some blocks, is an Indian sari shop district. There 
are a number of shops varying in quality and pricing.  Also, just off 
University is IMO the best Indian restaurant in the Bay Area. And one of 
the few that hasn't copied the standard Gaylord's menu, or the standard 
local lunchtime buffet. It's a hole in the wall called Bombay Cuisine, 
and the food is fantastic.

If you go to Oakland, my favorite dim sum restaurant in the Bay Area is 
there.  It's called the Jade Villa.  But there are lots, and lots, and 
lots of Chinese restaurants all over the Bay Area--greasy chopstick, 
moderate family, upscale/gourmet (the best of those is Ming's in the 
South Bay, IMO), fusion cuisine, everything. If you want a four-star 
gourmet vegetarian dinner, there's Green's in San Francisco. Pricey, but 
a real dining experience.  Cafe Chez Panissse in Berkeley is really 
classy, and somewhat cheaper and less traditional-French than Chez 
Panisse downstairs from it.  Also pricey though.  Bucci's in Emeryville 
(the East Bay) is my favorite local Italian restaurant. There are also 
plenty of fancy little pastry-and-espresso-drink places. Forget 
Starbucks, there are many far better independent places.

Basically, the Bay Area has thousands of restaurants of all kinds. You 
can find pretty much any cuisine here.

Fran
Lavolta Press
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Hi,
   
  I was wondering whether any of you have some recommendations for e-shops with fabrics or shops that would send me a catalogue? Some shops that would have basic fabrics like satin, taffeta etc. in various colours? I always get in trouble when searching for one specific colour...
   
  Thanks a lot,
   
  Zuzana
   
   

       
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shopping --slightly OT
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In a message dated 7/15/2007 4:18:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

Basically, the Bay Area has thousands of restaurants of all kinds. You  
can find pretty much any cuisine here.

When I made my first trip to SF in the 1980s, the paper said there were  
enough restaurants for everyone to eat out every night for three years, and then  
you would have to start over because there would be new ones.
 
Ann Wass

 



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Went to see this movie yesterday.  Of special interest to me was the  
wardrobe of Dolores Umbridge.  I think they cornered the market on pink  boucle.  One 
great outfit after another, all in shades of pink/fushia/soft  red, and great 
cat jewelry.
 
Ann Wass



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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shopping --slightly OT
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Status: RO


> 
> When I made my first trip to SF in the 1980s, the paper said there were  
> enough restaurants for everyone to eat out every night for three years, and then  
> you would have to start over because there would be new ones.
>  
> Ann Wass


Sounds about right. The whole Bay Area, not just SF, is full of 
restaurants, artisan bakeries, coffee shops, gourmet grocery stores, and 
what have you.

I forgot to say, I may have thought of the Jade Villa in Oakland (which, 
to digress again, is unusual in serving a full dim sum on weekdays), 
because there is a fabric store near there called Silk Road. I haven't 
been there in awhile, as I do much of my East Bay fabric store crawling 
when I go to the dentist, and Silk Road is not conveniently located for 
that.  Anyway, it's a small store, but has some nice fabrics, and a 
decent silk selection.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric shopping
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:03:12 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I've got a bunch of links to fabric sources online at del.icio.us.   
Go to
http://del.icio.us/melisant
and click on either sources--fabric or sources--silk in the blue  
links on the right side.

(For anyone who has tons of bookmarks and needs to access them from  
different computers, I highly recommend del.icio.us.  It's easy, it's  
free, and if your hard drive crashes, you don't lose all your links.   
You can also make your links public or private--I keep mine public  
for occasions such as this.)

Melanie Schuessler



On Jul 15, 2007, at 4:48 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Hi,
>
>   I was wondering whether any of you have some recommendations for  
> e-shops with fabrics or shops that would send me a catalogue? Some  
> shops that would have basic fabrics like satin, taffeta etc. in  
> various colours? I always get in trouble when searching for one  
> specific colour...
>
>   Thanks a lot,
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Try this one:

http://www.denverfabrics.com/ 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 3:49 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] fabric shopping

Hi,
   
  I was wondering whether any of you have some recommendations for e-shops
with fabrics or shops that would send me a catalogue? Some shops that would
have basic fabrics like satin, taffeta etc. in various colours? I always get
in trouble when searching for one specific colour...
   
  Thanks a lot,
   
  Zuzana
   
   

       
---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <469A4C21.2080501@uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shopping recommendations
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Status: RO

Hope,

I was reading a fashion magazine last week and came across a Hope Greenberg 
as the editor.  Is this you?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

Depends what you call a bargain. How much is silk usually?
There is "Fabrics R Us" in San Jose, about 30 miles south of San Francisco.
Lots of silks in a wide range of colors. It's on Berryessa Rd. I don't
remember cost, sorry. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] shopping recommendations

Hi -

I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to
visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area, if
you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a fantastic
bargain on silk, where would it be?

For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally suited
to 18th/early 19th century wear.

Thanks.

- Hope

------------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 21:15:22 -0700
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Status: RO

I may get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the liberties
they took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire movie.  She is so
particularly described as "frog-like" and wearing an Alice Band (a hair band
for those US types that never saw the Tennille drawings for Alice in
Wonderland!).  This woman did the syrupy sweet b*(h, but was too tall, and
too together to suit my vision.  I missed Peeves too!

I suppose that to do it justice this book needs someone to do it in 3 movies
(the fight scene alone would make an entire movie!) like Lord of the Rings!

Man did I recognize that Pink clothing from the Jackie Kennedy days!  Thank
God I wasn't wearing it, but I do recognize it!

Wanda

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 2:10 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
>
>
> Went to see this movie yesterday.  Of special interest to me was the
> wardrobe of Dolores Umbridge.  I think they cornered the market
> on pink  boucle.  One
> great outfit after another, all in shades of pink/fushia/soft
> red, and great
> cat jewelry.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: SF/SJ shopping recommendations
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Status: RO

> I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to
> visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area,
> if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a
> fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
>
> For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally
> suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.

'Lo Hope,
I'm a SF/SJ local & I'd recommend Thai Silks for plain taffetas, china
silks & Chinese brocades in a rainbow of colors (but you could order
the same thing from them online).

For sheer wacky variety, I'd have a wander thru the Scary Fabric Store
aka Fabric Mart (corner of Lundy & Berryessa in N San Jose).  It's
piled very high & close together, but there will be things you cannot
find anywhere else.  I think they buy dead stock, overruns and stock
from warehouse/retail store closings.
http://www.sanjose.com/fabric-mart-b2480191

Britex in SF is where you going for the expensive (silk on silk
velvet, unusual (velvet ribbon) or designer items. Big yawn for us
historical types.  You wont find historical looking embroidereds.

If you gotta stay in SF and dont want the high end designer things,
try Discount Fabrics in the Haight http://www.discountfabrics-sf.com/
or maybe one of the places the drag queens shop.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:18th century German "hosen"
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Status: RO

Candace Perry wrote
 [snip]
>My colleague seems to think they could not have worn breeches, as
their
>English counterparts might have here in the colonies.  To him it seems
far
>too formal for a farmer to be wearing breeches, but frankly I don't
know
>otherwise.  We have no artifact record to turn to, unfortunately,
except for
>that of a more formal nature.  It has been long accepted that the
costume of
>the local rural German speaking man in the late 18th century would
have
>included breeches, but my colleague questions this, and I can see his
point.
>Was there some sort of loose fitting pants with pockets the average
working
>German Joe would have worn?  We're not talking "peasant" but more of a
small
>landowning farmer or craftsman.  Not an impoverished type by any
means.

Breeches were formal dress in the late 18th/early 19th century, when
working men had begun to wear trousers. However, you asked about the
17th to mid-18th centuries; knee-breeches were standard masculine wear
in those periods. At least in the 17th century, there were various
styles but all were fairly loose-fitting, not like the elegant garment
of the 1780s/90s.
I don't know about Germany specifically, but this is true for
Britain/Western Europe generally.
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In a message dated 7/15/2007 11:12:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

I may  get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the liberties
they  took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire movie.  She is  so
particularly described as "frog-like" and wearing an Alice Band (a hair  band
for those US types that never saw the Tennille drawings for Alice  in
Wonderland!).  


You are right about that--but it was so long since I had read the book that  
I had forgotten all about the description of her.  I have to admit, she  
wasn't what I would have chosen, but I thought it was an interesting  
interpretation all the same.  
 
And at 138 minutes, the movie was quite long enough.  You can't do a  700 
page book as one movie without cutting something.  And if each book was  made 
into 3 movies, well, that is 21 films, in all, isn't it?
 
Ann Wass



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  Sorry, forgot to "sign" that last message.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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On Jul 7, 2007, at 2:53 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Soon the word brassiere was abandoned for bra and ever since
> in fashion history we have referred to the bra.
>
I don't think the word was abandoned that early.  My mother is 75,  
meaning she probably bought her first bras in the mid 40's, and she  
always calls them "brassieres" (which led to my mortification on  
shopping trips when I was old enough to need one).

Margo.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:23:38 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

Well, the movies are different from the books. In the books, I think
that the students only wear robes over everyday attire; in the movie
they wear uniforms to class and usually robes. Robes aren't worn all the
time. Also, this year and part of last when the movie was shooting, a
headband(or Alice)band was definitely a fashion must, especially for the
age group worshiping Paris Hilton et.al as fashion icons.

So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits was not
such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official, she
would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by being
tall--we associate height with authority.

I do agree that this one book is worth 2 or 3 movies in length--perhaps
in the future a literal miniseries of all the books might get done as in
two-plus hours it isn't possible to be totally faithful to each book.

I was going to see the movie this coming weekend as I hate dealing with
large crowds, but the last Harry Potter book will be hitting my mailbox
sometime Saturday, so I will have to read the last book first!!

Cindy Abel



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"

I may get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the
liberties they took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire
movie.  She is so particularly described as "frog-like" and wearing an
Alice Band (a hair band for those US types that never saw the Tennille
drawings for Alice in Wonderland!).  This woman did the syrupy sweet
b*(h, but was too tall, and too together to suit my vision.  I missed
Peeves too!

I suppose that to do it justice this book needs someone to do it in 3
movies (the fight scene alone would make an entire movie!) like Lord of
the Rings!

Man did I recognize that Pink clothing from the Jackie Kennedy days!
Thank God I wasn't wearing it, but I do recognize it!

Wanda

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 2:10 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
>
>
> Went to see this movie yesterday.  Of special interest to me was the=20
> wardrobe of Dolores Umbridge.  I think they cornered the market on=20
> pink  boucle.  One great outfit after another, all in shades of=20
> pink/fushia/soft red, and great cat jewelry.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>

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Status: RO



> Britex in SF is where you going for the expensive (silk on silk
> velvet, unusual (velvet ribbon) or designer items. Big yawn for us
> historical types.  You wont find historical looking embroidereds.


Something must be wrong with me . . . I've bought lots of costuming 
fabric at Britex.  No, they do not specialize in fabrics for historic 
costumers. There is no such store in the San Francisco Bay Area. But 
Britex is by far the largest general fabric store in the San Francisco 
Bay Area, and they have a large selection of luxury and natural-fiber 
fabrics of all kinds.  That is their specialty.

Britex is a store where there are fabrics in cases up to the ceiling, 
accessible only by ladder, piled deep on tables, in compartments under 
the tables, and all over the place. The salespeople are eager to help. 
But don't expect them to have a clue what you mean if you ask for a 
fabric from some historic era. I once asked a salesperson to help me 
find an early 19th-century-style embroidered muslin-like fabric, and she 
proudly dug out a lovely sheer white cotton--with big kittens 
embroidered all over it. However, once I suggested floral sprigs, 
specifically, she located a number of others, and I bought one that was 
very appropriate.

You actually don't really need the salespeople at all if you are willing 
to climb ladders, etc. But they don't really like you to, so you have to 
be furtive.

As for the stores catering to drag queens--not unless you want to buy 
things like cheap, extremely glittery lame, and huge, brightly colored 
feather boas.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Status: RO

Hi
 
Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?
 
Many thanks
 
Pauline
 
http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/


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Status: RO

There was some discussion on this list a while back, Oct 6 & 7, 2003 
that might be useful. The archives are here:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/



Dawn



Pauline Loven wrote:
> Hi
>  
> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?
>  
> Many thanks
>  
> Pauline
>  
> http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/
> 
> 
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> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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Status: RO

Use watered down latex paint. It looks like dirt, but the material isn't
damaged. If you want "wear" on seams or hems, try sand paper (hold wrapped
over a block of wood).For a spot where the fabric is worn, try gingerly
holding fabric (with something hard inside, like a dowel) against a grinder.
Work slowly. Dipping hems in watered down paint looks like mud stains. You
can drip wax on the material and then iron it out. It usually leaves a
darker mark.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pauline Loven
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 11:31 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume

Hi
 
Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?
 
Many thanks
 
Pauline
 
http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: SF/SJ shopping recommendations
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Status: RO

The "scary fabric store" on Lundy and Berryessa is also known as Fabrics R
Us. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:00 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: SF/SJ shopping recommendations

> I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined 
> to visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA 
> area, if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured 
> of a fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
>
> For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally 
> suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.

'Lo Hope,
I'm a SF/SJ local & I'd recommend Thai Silks for plain taffetas, china silks
& Chinese brocades in a rainbow of colors (but you could order the same
thing from them online).

For sheer wacky variety, I'd have a wander thru the Scary Fabric Store aka
Fabric Mart (corner of Lundy & Berryessa in N San Jose).  It's piled very
high & close together, but there will be things you cannot find anywhere
else.  I think they buy dead stock, overruns and stock from warehouse/retail
store closings.
http://www.sanjose.com/fabric-mart-b2480191

Britex in SF is where you going for the expensive (silk on silk velvet,
unusual (velvet ribbon) or designer items. Big yawn for us historical types.
You wont find historical looking embroidereds.

If you gotta stay in SF and dont want the high end designer things, try
Discount Fabrics in the Haight http://www.discountfabrics-sf.com/
or maybe one of the places the drag queens shop.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO


>
>
>I was going to see the movie this coming weekend as I hate dealing with
>large crowds, but the last Harry Potter book will be hitting my mailbox
>sometime Saturday, so I will have to read the last book first!!
>
>Cindy Abel


I went to see it yesterday afternoon, and was pleased to find it not 
terribly crowded at all. Of course, that could be because they had it 
showing in three theaters, at staggered times, but whatever the 
reason I was rather glad. No one kicked my seat, I didn't hear anyone 
talking, and no one's cell phone rang through the whole thing!

Oh, and I enjoyed the movie. And wished I could go see it again, when 
I stepped out into the parking lot where the temp was well over 90 
degrees. bleccch.

Dianne 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:37:03 -0700
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Status: RO

On Jul 16, 2007, at 11:30 AM, Pauline Loven wrote:
> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing  
> costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be  
> useful?

The term you should be searching for is "distressing" a costume.

What sort of effects do you want to create, though? Are we talking  
visible wear, dirt, stains, fading?

andy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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On Jul 16, 2007, at 11:30 AM, Pauline Loven wrote:
> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing  
> costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be  
> useful?

The term you should be searching for is "distressing" a costume.

What sort of effects do you want to create, though? Are we talking  
visible wear, dirt, stains, fading?

andy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

On Jul 16, 2007, at 7:23 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits  
> was not
> such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official, she
> would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by being
> tall--we associate height with authority.

It's Imelda Staunton. I've seen her in a lot of stuff; she often  
works with Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie. She's not at all a tall  
woman. Positively tiny standing next to Fry and Laurie. 5' even  
according to the bio information I was able to find.

Of course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I suppose they may have  
put her in heels.

andy
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Status: RO

Britex also has a fabulous remnant section. My husband was looking for a
bottle green wool for a Dickens coat. We went to Britex and found the
perfect fabric----for $280 a yard! We gulped and said we were looking for
something less expensive. The salesperson sent us to the remnant floor and
there we found a remnant 3 5/8 yards long of great green wool fabric for a
total price of $50. Also a wool/silk blend piece 2 yards long for a
similarly low price. Their remnants are often BIG.
  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 10:27 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: SF/SJ shopping recommendations



> Britex in SF is where you going for the expensive (silk on silk 
> velvet, unusual (velvet ribbon) or designer items. Big yawn for us 
> historical types.  You wont find historical looking embroidereds.


Something must be wrong with me . . . I've bought lots of costuming fabric
at Britex.  No, they do not specialize in fabrics for historic costumers.
There is no such store in the San Francisco Bay Area. But Britex is by far
the largest general fabric store in the San Francisco Bay Area, and they
have a large selection of luxury and natural-fiber fabrics of all kinds.
That is their specialty.

Britex is a store where there are fabrics in cases up to the ceiling,
accessible only by ladder, piled deep on tables, in compartments under the
tables, and all over the place. The salespeople are eager to help. 
But don't expect them to have a clue what you mean if you ask for a fabric
from some historic era. I once asked a salesperson to help me find an early
19th-century-style embroidered muslin-like fabric, and she proudly dug out a
lovely sheer white cotton--with big kittens embroidered all over it.
However, once I suggested floral sprigs, specifically, she located a number
of others, and I bought one that was very appropriate.

You actually don't really need the salespeople at all if you are willing to
climb ladders, etc. But they don't really like you to, so you have to be
furtive.

As for the stores catering to drag queens--not unless you want to buy things
like cheap, extremely glittery lame, and huge, brightly colored feather
boas.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com
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References: <ccc.16680dc2.33cc9189@aol.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:12:12 -0700
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Status: RO

Hopefully someday they will do the Harry Potter books PBS style, with each
book getting multiple 2 hour "moviettes". Like what A&E did with "Pride and
Prejudice".

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 2:17 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"

 
In a message dated 7/15/2007 11:12:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

I may  get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the liberties
they  took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire movie.  She is  so
particularly described as "frog-like" and wearing an Alice Band (a hair
band for those US types that never saw the Tennille drawings for Alice  in
Wonderland!).  


You are right about that--but it was so long since I had read the book that
I had forgotten all about the description of her.  I have to admit, she
wasn't what I would have chosen, but I thought it was an interesting
interpretation all the same.  
 
And at 138 minutes, the movie was quite long enough.  You can't do a  700
page book as one movie without cutting something.  And if each book was
made into 3 movies, well, that is 21 films, in all, isn't it?
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:56:48 -0700
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Status: RO

Oh, and I forgot to mention, good scenic paint, like Rosco Super Saturated,
is intended to be used as a fabric dye when cut with water. Good brilliant
colors, too. And a black that is really BLACK.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 1:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume

Use watered down latex paint. It looks like dirt, but the material isn't
damaged. If you want "wear" on seams or hems, try sand paper (hold wrapped
over a block of wood).For a spot where the fabric is worn, try gingerly
holding fabric (with something hard inside, like a dowel) against a grinder.
Work slowly. Dipping hems in watered down paint looks like mud stains. You
can drip wax on the material and then iron it out. It usually leaves a
darker mark.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pauline Loven
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 11:31 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume

Hi
 
Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?
 
Many thanks
 
Pauline
 
http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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Status: RO

At 19:30 16/07/2007, you wrote:
>Hi
>
>Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
>does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Pauline
>
>http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/


You can use a cheese grater, and for dried mud, see if you can get 
some Fuller's Earth - they still used to sell it in Boots not so long 
ago. (It makes a great face pack too!) You just add water and it 
becomes mud. It can be used for dry cleaning too, but thrown onto a 
costume and allowed to dry, makes real mud.

Suzi

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 16:49:57 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

They may have shot her to look tall like, Robbie Contrane's Hagrid as
well. Haven't seen the movie either yet, but notice from the way it is
shot, in the previews, Imelda looks taller than she is, apparently.  For
instance, when Harry is before the Ministry of Magic, she seems to be
seated as part of a rising stack(stadium seating)of officials, and in
other previews appears to be standing when others are sitting.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 3:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"

On Jul 16, 2007, at 7:23 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits was=20
> not such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official,=20
> she would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by=20
> being tall--we associate height with authority.

It's Imelda Staunton. I've seen her in a lot of stuff; she often works
with Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie. She's not at all a tall woman.
Positively tiny standing next to Fry and Laurie. 5' even according to
the bio information I was able to find.

Of course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I suppose they may have put
her in heels.

andy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/16/2007 4:47:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
attrembl@bovil.com writes:

Of  course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I suppose they may have  
put  her in heels.



Only very low, fushia heels!  I think her sense of height, which I  didn't 
notice that much, might come from camera angles, and the fact that she  stands 
on a dias to teach while the students are seated, and such.  I'm not  sure if 
there was a conscious effort to make her look tall and commanding.  
 
What I found so interesting is that I, at least, don't usually associate  
pink with a mean character.  
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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Status: RO

Pauline Loven wrote:
> Hi
>  
> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?

	we have a whole bunch of suggestions at 
<http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Fabric/Distressing.htm>

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: "Angela Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Designer Fabric Sale
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Status: RO

H-Costume list
I thought I'd pass this on in case any of you who are located in the SF =
Bay Area might be interested.  Sounds like they'll have some nice =
merchandise.  Stephanie Verrieres is a former costume assistant of mine, =
and she runs her own design studio.  Her info on the sale is below;

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:=20
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,=20
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:=20
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram=20
W. Shakespeare=20
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Designer Fabric Sale=20

Two local fashion design teams, Verrie`res & Sako and Gr.Dano, are=20
consolidating their fabric inventory at an exclusive fabric and trim=20
sample sale open to design students and industry professionals=20
for one day only.=20
Purchase designer fabrics, silks and wools, costume remnants and=20
trims at wholesale cost. Small quantities to large yardage available.
=20
Cash and Credit Card accepted.=20
Come in early on Saturday for the best selection.
=20
For more information contact us at info@verrieres-sako.com or =
510.534.7150=20

Where:=20
Studio 23=20
(located inside the Cotton Mill Studios)=20
1091 Calcot Place Suite 402=20
Oakland, CA 94606=20

When:=20
*Saturday, July 21st  11am - 3pm=20
*open to design students and industry professionals=20
Sunday, July 22nd  11am - 2pm=20
Open to general public=20

Driving Directions:
>From 880 South (San Francisco, North Bay)=20
   - take the exit towards 23RD AVE.=20
   - stay STRAIGHT to go onto KENNEDY ST.=20
   - turn LEFT onto E 7TH ST. =20
   - turn LEFT onto 23RD AVE.=20
   - turn RIGHT onto E11th ST.=20
   - turn LEFT onto CALCOT PLACE=20
>From 880 North (South Bay)=20
   - take the 23RD AVE. exit=20
   - stay STRAIGHT to go onto 23RD AVE.=20
   - turn RIGHT onto E 11TH ST.=20
   - turn LEFT onto CALCOT PLACE
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

On Monday 16 July 2007, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> They may have shot her to look tall like, Robbie Contrane's Hagrid as
> well. Haven't seen the movie either yet, but notice from the way it is
> shot, in the previews, Imelda looks taller than she is, apparently.  For
> instance, when Harry is before the Ministry of Magic, she seems to be
> seated as part of a rising stack(stadium seating)of officials, and in
> other previews appears to be standing when others are sitting.

I think it's purely psychological.  She plays the role standing *very* 
straight, which can give an impression of height.  But I didn't get the 
impression that she was any taller than average--and apparently she's shorter 
than that.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: STILSKIN@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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Status: RO

> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?


Cheese grater;
Sandpaper;
Thin shellac;
Thinned grey paint.

What more could you ask for?

-C.


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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO




>Only very low, fushia heels!  I think her sense of height, which I  didn't
>notice that much, might come from camera angles, and the fact that she  
>stands
>on a dias to teach while the students are seated, and such.  I'm not  sure 
>if
>there was a conscious effort to make her look tall and commanding.

I didn't think she looked tall at all in the movie.
>
>What I found so interesting is that I, at least, don't usually associate
>pink with a mean character.
>
I think that and the kittens on the wall and her constant smiling were 
intended to point up the fact that she was the evil-that-thinks-itself-good.
Either that or pink is the new black, lol!

Laurie
>
>
>
>************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL 
>at
>http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

Hi Harry Potter fans!

may we come to a concensus here and now about the last book, due to be
released in the US July 21? Please, no discussing it on the public list
for at least a month! No spoilers, ok?

thanks!
Arlys, another fan

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 19:22:52 -0700 "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
writes:
> 
> 
> 
> >Only very low, fushia heels!  I think her sense of height, which I  
> didn't
> >notice that much, might come from camera angles, and the fact that 
> she  
> >stands
> >on a dias to teach while the students are seated, and such.  I'm 
> not  sure 
> >if
> >there was a conscious effort to make her look tall and commanding.
> 
> I didn't think she looked tall at all in the movie.
> >
> >What I found so interesting is that I, at least, don't usually 
> associate
> >pink with a mean character.
> >
> I think that and the kittens on the wall and her constant smiling 
> were 
> intended to point up the fact that she was the 
> evil-that-thinks-itself-good.
> Either that or pink is the new black, lol!
> 
> Laurie
> >
> >
> >
> >************************************** Get a sneak peak of the 
> all-new AOL 
> >at
> >http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://newlivehotmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix" Jackie Kennedy is Historic
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Status: RO

I went in Costume to the book party but didn't get my book with the crowd at
the stroke of midnight!  Big Mistake!  My book didn't come until after 3pm
and my housemate's until the next day!  I have to have that book read by
about 11am because I'm helping my son move his fiancee.  She just suffered
an ectopic pregnancy that burst and nearly killed her so she is to be duct
taped to a chair and allowed to offer nothing but advice as we crate her
stuff prior to her new house!

Regina (saw the movie at the Seattle IMAX with the fight scene in 3D - WoW!)

> I was going to see the movie this coming weekend as I hate dealing with
> large crowds, but the last Harry Potter book will be hitting my mailbox
> sometime Saturday, so I will have to read the last book first!!
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
>

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Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 04:15:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric shopping
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for all the links! 
  Does somedoby happen to know also some UK or German sites (or European...)? Just because of the shipping...:-)))
   
  Zuzana

       
---------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 19:19:23 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
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Status: RO

We did that for the "House of Bernarda Alba". The wedding gown was first
dipped in tea to give it an antique look., then run over by a car several
times...
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Judy Mitchell
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume


Pauline Loven wrote:
> Hi
>
> Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing
costume -
> does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful?

	we have a whole bunch of suggestions at
<http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Fabric/Distressing.htm>

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 00:53:35 -0400
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Status: RO

On Monday 16 July 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> Hi Harry Potter fans!
>
> may we come to a concensus here and now about the last book, due to be
> released in the US July 21? Please, no discussing it on the public list
> for at least a month! No spoilers, ok?

I think that's only fair.  But then, I wasn't planning to discuss Harry Potter 
on this list--I don't think it's on topic.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 08:56:26 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

At 10:22 PM 7/16/2007, you wrote:
>>What I found so interesting is that I, at least, don't usually associate
>>pink with a mean character.
>
>I think that and the kittens on the wall and her constant smiling 
>were intended to point up the fact that she was the 
>evil-that-thinks-itself-good.
>Either that or pink is the new black, lol!
>
>Laurie


Yes, it was the juxtaposition of the really very little-girly, 
ultra-feminine (sickeningly sweet) appearance and attitude that makes 
her evilness even more appalling. She's not supposed to APPEAR 
commanding or authoritative, so when you find out how cruel she is, 
the shock makes it that much worse.

Dianne


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 09:14:22 -0500
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Status: RO

It is slightly on topic for the costumes, specifically ms. Umbridge's =
pink Chanel knockoff. :)
What is scary is that at JoAnne's on there clearance shelf in my town, =
they have that pink blended thick yarn material. But I'm to tall to go =
to the masquerade at NASCI-FI as Umbridge. :)
But I agree that discussion of the new book is OT.
De

-----Original Message-----
I think that's only fair.  But then, I wasn't planning to discuss Harry =
Potter=20
on this list--I don't think it's on topic.

--=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do." =20
-- George Mabry

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

At 11:44 PM 7/16/2007, you wrote:
>Hi Harry Potter fans!
>
>may we come to a concensus here and now about the last book, due to be
>released in the US July 21? Please, no discussing it on the public list
>for at least a month! No spoilers, ok?
>
>thanks!
>Arlys, another fan


Works for me. I may well avoid the internet altogether till I have 
had a chance to read the book.

Dianne


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Thread-Topic: Movies: The Golden Age
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

 There is a picture from the upcoming movie: Elizabeth: The Golden Age
that looks pretty authentic, compared to pics of the rest I've seen.
Elizabeth I wears it and it appears to be cream satin with a fairly
subtle diagonal design. It does appear to have some lace or lace-like
embroidery on the bodice front with tiny gems or sequins done sparingly.
The open ruff looks pretty good, and the curled, beribboned wig adorned
with upstanding feathers held by a jewellered broach is also. But what's
with the angle of the wired veiling? Instead of standing upright and
framing the entire emsemble, its at about at a 60 degree angle. While
aesthetically pleasing to the modern eye, so Elizabeth/Cate Blanchette's
face stands out more against the darker background, it isn't what's
shown in portraits of the Elizabethan court or most famously, on Mary
Queen of Scotts. Does anyone know for certain how this full length,
wired from the top in a curved or heart-shape was worn as the final
touch to an entire Elizabethan/French noblewoman's ensemble?

I always thought it was strictly upright, not at an angle, behind the
wearer. Although the angle would ensure that no one could trail too
closely behind without at least bumping into the wire veiling. A clever
way to ensure a bit more open space around the wearer, however.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 5:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Movies Re: The Golden Age(film)/Dracula


--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>=20
> nothing  to do with Romania, Transylvania, and the 19th century, but=20
> hey, this is fiction, right?
>=20
> ********************
> =20
> Then don't, at the beginning of the film, put up a date in 20 ft high=20
> numbers:
> =20
> 1898

Ah, like The League of Extrodinary Gentlemen (or whatever its actual
title is).  Big date re: 1890s, Tom Sawyer as the ingenue and a bunch of
creepy characters.

But Tom Sawyer was 10-14 in the 1850s.  He's still an young innocent in
the 1890s?!?  Eat your heart out, Dorian Gray.

Which movie I enjoyed and enjoyed the costumes, but entirely separately
from any historical implications.

Ann in CT
not lightning!!


=20
________________________________________________________________________
____________
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.=20
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/newmail_tools.html
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There's a scene full of maneuvering on a staircase
with Prof MacGonagle--who is much taller--that's
hysterical.

No spoilers. Just saw it last night and thought it was
wonderful. Umbridge's fake Chanel pinkishness was
horrible--perfect, but horrible. It did sort of make
up for the lack of literal toad-likeness that Rowling
emphasis almost to death in the book.


MaggiRos

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 7/16/2007 4:47:06 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time,  
> attrembl@bovil.com writes:
> 
> Of  course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I
> suppose they may have  
> put  her in heels.
> 
> 
> 
> Only very low, fushia heels!  I think her sense of
> height, which I  didn't 
> notice that much, might come from camera angles, and
> the fact that she  stands 
> on a dias to teach while the students are seated,
> and such.  I'm not  sure if 
> there was a conscious effort to make her look tall
> and commanding.  
>  
> What I found so interesting is that I, at least,
> don't usually associate  
> pink with a mean character.  
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peak of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO

Natural Dyes by Dominique Cardon Hardcover: 778 pages 560 
Illustrations, Archetype (2007) ISBN: 190498200X

It just got here! I originally pre-ordered it from Amazon in June of 
2006.. and was cancelled. I then re-ordered it from Blackwell-UK... 
and was cancelled. I re-ordered it yet again.. this time from A1Books 
(said they had it in stock) via ABE and shipment was delayed....

I was beginning to wonder if I was going to have to order it from the 
publisher and pay full price, but was able to finally get it for 
$108.44 including shipping

Beth

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
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Status: RO

MaggiRos wrote:
> There's a scene full of maneuvering on a staircase
> with Prof MacGonagle--who is much taller--that's
> hysterical.

	reminded me a bit of the stairway scene from 1776, actually.

> 
> No spoilers. Just saw it last night and thought it was(since ALEP isn't an actual non-profit, you aren't bound by donating only to official non-profits
> wonderful. Umbridge's fake Chanel pinkishness was
> horrible--perfect, but horrible. It did sort of make
> up for the lack of literal toad-likeness that Rowling
> emphasis almost to death in the book.

	in addition to the missing Alice band (with the bow that always looked 
like a fly), they seemed to forget her usual green cardigan (ewww, on 
top of those pinks?!) that also emphasized her toad-iness.

	-Judy Mitchell
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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPMEDKJEAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 15:25:46 -0700
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Status: RO

Tie shoes to your knees, then kneel. Like Tim Conway as "Dorf" :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 7:14 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"

It is slightly on topic for the costumes, specifically ms. Umbridge's pink
Chanel knockoff. :) What is scary is that at JoAnne's on there clearance
shelf in my town, they have that pink blended thick yarn material. But I'm
to tall to go to the masquerade at NASCI-FI as Umbridge. :) But I agree that
discussion of the new book is OT.
De

-----Original Message-----
I think that's only fair.  But then, I wasn't planning to discuss Harry
Potter on this list--I don't think it's on topic.

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: [h-cost] Questions: Tibetan Panel Coat
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Status: RO

To anyone who has made Folkwear's Tibetan Panel Coat, or lives =

someplace where they can take a look at a real one:

Is this supposed to be a knee-length garment, or a mid-calf?

The envelope picture isn't clear.  I already tried asking Folkwear =

directly, and the response was "moron, look at the back of the =

envelope, it's a 47" long garment".

47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's =

too long.  I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to =

shorten it?

Also, my pattern does not have the adjustment lines that the pattern =

instructions claim are present.  Does it work better to shorten at =

the hem, or about the middle of the pattern piece?

Leah

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabeth-The Golden Age
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Status: RO

=20

 There is a new trailer up on the official website:

http://www.elizabeththegoldenage.net/

It offers some more glimpse of costumes. Spanish Armada sequences should
be pretty awesome, although most of it is CGI. Accurate or not, the
cinematography promises to be impressive as well.

Cindy Abel
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From: "Margo" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questions: Tibetan Panel Coat
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:09:39 -0700
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Status: RO

I've made several of these; on myself and my husband they come to somewhere
between mid-calf and knee. I don't know what they're supposed to be!

I wouldn't shorten at the hem; I'd try for a middle of the pattern piece
adjustment.

And, an ankle length one might look very nice!


"Don't forget your bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert/Brave Combo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of llwatts@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 2:33 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Questions: Tibetan Panel Coat

To anyone who has made Folkwear's Tibetan Panel Coat, or lives 
someplace where they can take a look at a real one:

Is this supposed to be a knee-length garment, or a mid-calf?

The envelope picture isn't clear.  I already tried asking Folkwear 
directly, and the response was "moron, look at the back of the 
envelope, it's a 47" long garment".

47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's 
too long.  I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to 
shorten it?

Also, my pattern does not have the adjustment lines that the pattern 
instructions claim are present.  Does it work better to shorten at 
the hem, or about the middle of the pattern piece?

Leah

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Subject: [h-cost] Native american dresses
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Status: RO

I'm going to this exhibit tomorrow.
 
_http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html_ 
(http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html) 
 
 
This online version is really good! Check it out. Beautiful and  amazing!
 
Click on one of the different sections listed at the top of the page, then  
the arrow to the right advances the visuals. [It took me a minute to figure 
this  out...duh!]
 
Enjoy!
 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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References: <c38.18d4c364.33cbe740@aol.com><HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCAEDDPDAA.wandap@hevanet.com><BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F09A1A2EF@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu><3DD90DC2-BFE3-465A-934A-298D60BCE672@bovil.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 12:13:58 +1000
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Status: RO

The only scene I can recall where you can see Imelda Staunton's height in 
direct comparison to another character is a confrontation between her and 
Maggie Smith (Professor McGonagall) and I noticed that Maggie Smith looked 
to be the same height when she was standing one step lower on the stairs.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Order of the Phoenix"


They may have shot her to look tall like, Robbie Contrane's Hagrid as
well. Haven't seen the movie either yet, but notice from the way it is
shot, in the previews, Imelda looks taller than she is, apparently.  For
instance, when Harry is before the Ministry of Magic, she seems to be
seated as part of a rising stack(stadium seating)of officials, and in
other previews appears to be standing when others are sitting.

Cindy Abel


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Status: RO

Leah,
Since I remember that you're rather shortwaisted, I'd adjust to
shorten the pattern at the waist & hip. Bring the indicated W & H
marks up to match yours. You may also need to make adjustment at the
neck, bustline & across the shoulder since IIRC you're bustier than
the typical B or C cup Folkwear designs for.
Have fun at GenCon, I'm missing this year,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Questions: Tibetan Panel Coat
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Message-ID: <20070717.163253.553.1@webmail12.lax.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

To anyone who has made Folkwear's Tibetan Panel Coat, or lives
someplace where they can take a look at a real one:

Is this supposed to be a knee-length garment, or a mid-calf?

The envelope picture isn't clear.  I already tried asking Folkwear
directly, and the response was "moron, look at the back of the
envelope, it's a 47" long garment".

47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's
too long.  I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to
shorten it?

Also, my pattern does not have the adjustment lines that the pattern
instructions claim are present.  Does it work better to shorten at
the hem, or about the middle of the pattern piece?

Leah
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Native american dresses
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Status: RO

Wow!  That is fascinating, thanks so much for posting.  I thought the 
19th century cloth dresses were expecially interesting, the similarities 
and differences from European dress.

JEan


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> I'm going to this exhibit tomorrow.
>  
> _http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html_ 
> (http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html) 
>  
>  
> This online version is really good! Check it out. Beautiful and  amazing!
>  
> Click on one of the different sections listed at the top of the page, then  
> the arrow to the right advances the visuals. [It took me a minute to figure 
> this  out...duh!]
>  
> Enjoy!
>  
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>   

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Status: RO

Once upon a time there was a discussion on batiste weight linen and a source
was posted. I thought I saved the URL but I can't find it in my link files.
Could someone with the link please post it and post (if you remember) the
name of that type of linen as I know it isn't batiste.

Thank you,
De



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Silk shops
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>
>Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 12:32:33 -0400
>From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>Subject: [h-cost] shopping recommendations
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <469A4C21.2080501@uvm.edu>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Hi -
>
>I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to
>visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area,
>if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a
>fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
>
>For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally
>suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.
>
>Thanks.
>
>- Hope
>
>Here is a review  from a costumer who recently visited the LA 
>garment /fabric district.  If you go there you won't be limited to 
>one because they are side to side for a few blocks.  I certainly 
>hope that i am not stepping on any toes by shareing this.  It was 
>posted on another list.



Hi Fabrics, Inc,
at 937 Maple Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

Deja recommended this highly, and she was right on. It has fabrics on
roller-arms on the left, niches with more rollers of fabric on the
right, and rolls standing on end dividing what would be one aisle into
two. The silk (dupioni and other) is at the front, on the left roller
arms.

----------------------------------------
Fabrics & Fabrics (DBA M. M. P., Inc),
at 403 E. 9th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

This shop was two shops wide, instead of long and narrow. The silk was
at the front, again with the chenille-accented designs. In the back
on the right side, they
also had a wall of medium weight linen in many lovely colors. These
were quoted at $6/yd (before dickering), and the white handkerchief
weight at $10/yd.

-------------------------------------------
Next door is a 99-cent niche.
It has no storefront, just a banner proclaiming the price of all
goods; there was no front wall.
That's where I got the medium weight muslin, $10 for 10 yards.

-------------------------------------------
Next door to that is L.A. Fred's Fabric, Inc, Drapery and Upholstery,
411 East 9th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

Definitely upscale fabrics. They say they are a silk specialist, and
their store bears them out. Not quite as crowded with fabric as the
others we went into. This is where I found the red silk I had to take
away with me. One person quoted $15, then later someone else quoted
$20.

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I certainly hope that i am
>> not stepping on any toes by shareing this.  It was posted on another 
>> list.

Why on earth would you be stepping on any toes?

Fran
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From: Beverly Azizi <bazizi@uci.edu>
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Status: RO

Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 3:49 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] fabric shopping

Hi,

   I was wondering whether any of you have some recommendations for e-shops
with fabrics or shops that would send me a catalogue? Some shops that would
have basic fabrics like satin, taffeta etc. in various colours? I always get
in trouble when searching for one specific colour...

   Thanks a lot,

   Zuzana

I have made several purchases from fashion 
fabrics.com  http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/  Usually happy.  They 
offer a lot of linen, wool and silk.  Here in Ca we like the tropical 
weight wool that you can usually find.

Beverly

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From: "KLH" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Silk shops
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 18:18:58 -0500
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Status: RO

Speaking of silk, I'm going to Thailand next month for a couple of weeks.
Should I bother to go silk shopping? Not sure how much better the prices
would be over Los Angeles...

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Beverly Azizi
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 6:03 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Silk shops



>
>Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 12:32:33 -0400
>From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>Subject: [h-cost] shopping recommendations
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <469A4C21.2080501@uvm.edu>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Hi -
>
>I'm going to be on the west coast (U.S.) next week and am determined to
>visit at least one fabric store! So, in San Francisco or in the LA area,
>if you could visit one fabric store where you could be assured of a
>fantastic bargain on silk, where would it be?
>
>For silk, I'm thinking taffetas, embroidered, etc., things generally
>suited to 18th/early 19th century wear.
>
>Thanks.
>
>- Hope
>
>Here is a review  from a costumer who recently visited the LA
>garment /fabric district.  If you go there you won't be limited to
>one because they are side to side for a few blocks.  I certainly
>hope that i am not stepping on any toes by shareing this.  It was
>posted on another list.



Hi Fabrics, Inc,
at 937 Maple Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

Deja recommended this highly, and she was right on. It has fabrics on
roller-arms on the left, niches with more rollers of fabric on the
right, and rolls standing on end dividing what would be one aisle into
two. The silk (dupioni and other) is at the front, on the left roller
arms.

----------------------------------------
Fabrics & Fabrics (DBA M. M. P., Inc),
at 403 E. 9th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

This shop was two shops wide, instead of long and narrow. The silk was
at the front, again with the chenille-accented designs. In the back
on the right side, they
also had a wall of medium weight linen in many lovely colors. These
were quoted at $6/yd (before dickering), and the white handkerchief
weight at $10/yd.

-------------------------------------------
Next door is a 99-cent niche.
It has no storefront, just a banner proclaiming the price of all
goods; there was no front wall.
That's where I got the medium weight muslin, $10 for 10 yards.

-------------------------------------------
Next door to that is L.A. Fred's Fabric, Inc, Drapery and Upholstery,
411 East 9th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015

Definitely upscale fabrics. They say they are a silk specialist, and
their store bears them out. Not quite as crowded with fabric as the
others we went into. This is where I found the red silk I had to take
away with me. One person quoted $15, then later someone else quoted
$20.

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Status: RO

llwatts@juno.com wrote:

> 
> 47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's 
> too long.  I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to 
> shorten it?

I started to make this once upon a time, and have since lost the entire 
project. 47" would be mid calf on me, and I'm medium height. I think mid 
calf is about the right length, from the pictures I see.


> 
> Also, my pattern does not have the adjustment lines that the pattern 
> instructions claim are present.  Does it work better to shorten at 
> the hem, or about the middle of the pattern piece?

IIRC, most of the pieces are rectangles. Does it matter if you take out 
from the middle or the bottom?


Dawn



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Hello the list,
Just wanted to share a happy thing wich just happened to me.
I had ordered a lot of silk floss directly from China. More than 2 kg.
Then when i wanted to try them out, i noticed that the threads was not 
stranded into smaller threads like Eternas silk floss. It was a solid thread 
full of tiny tiny threads. The floss is cut out into lenghts of 84 cm each, 
and i tryed to split them, but it was impossible.
Now i got help from H-Needlework, they advised me to cut the thread shorter. 
Now i have succeded to split one thread into 16 smaller strands without 
troubble.
Think about the possibilities with this, i can mix collours if i need 
another shade i dont have.And make different thicknesses of strands.
A little more time consuming, but truely worth the effort.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] China Silk Floss.
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:06:43 -0400
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Bjarne,=20

You are a treasure!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 8:57 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] China Silk Floss.

Hello the list,
Just wanted to share a happy thing wich just happened to me.
I had ordered a lot of silk floss directly from China. More than 2 kg.
Then when i wanted to try them out, i noticed that the threads was not=20
stranded into smaller threads like Eternas silk floss. It was a solid
thread=20
full of tiny tiny threads. The floss is cut out into lenghts of 84 cm
each,=20
and i tryed to split them, but it was impossible.
Now i got help from H-Needlework, they advised me to cut the thread
shorter.=20
Now i have succeded to split one thread into 16 smaller strands without=20
troubble.
Think about the possibilities with this, i can mix collours if i need=20
another shade i dont have.And make different thicknesses of strands.
A little more time consuming, but truely worth the effort.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <llwatts@juno.com>
<< 47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's
too long.  I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to
shorten it? >>

Unless I'm remembering wrong, most patterns are made with a height of 5'6" 
(66") in mind.  Figure out the difference between that and your height, then 
subtract a tad less (to keep things proportional) from the 47".  So if 
you're 5' even (60") then you'd wind up with a new length of 41", but you'd 
add in about an inch because the heads of people who are 5' tall are 
generally the same size as people who are 5'6" tall, winding up with a new 
length of 42".

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

Hi De,=0A=0AThat *might* be the cambric I found. It's at least as light as =
batiste, if not moreso. I can only get it wholesale and have to buy in bulk=
. In North America, I  get it from Ulster Linen. I believe they also have a=
 parent company somewhere in the UK. =0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampa=
nt tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, =
slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head=
 erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-G=
eorge Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge. =0AWhere the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art=
.=0A-Leonardo da Vinci=0AOnce upon a time there was a discussion on batiste=
 weight linen and a source=0Awas posted. I thought I saved the URL but I ca=
n't find it in my link files.=0ACould someone with the link please post it =
and post (if you remember) the=0Aname of that type of linen as I know it is=
n't batiste.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam. See how sma=
rt SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail =
at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

Someone wrote:
>Once upon a time there was a discussion on batiste weight linen and a source
>was posted. I thought I saved the URL but I can't find it in my link files.
>Could someone with the link please post it and post (if you remember) the
>name of that type of linen as I know it isn't batiste.

The discussion I remember began when Julian Wilson (Hi, Julian!) mentioned that he had bought some batiste to make banners with from a local supplier on (Old) Jersey. Lots of us got very excited. Upon investigation, however, it turned out to be cotton rather than linen, IIRC.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 14:52:17 -0500
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Status: RO

but there was further discussion and a name of the sheer linen (it was =
not called batiste)was said and a site that sold it for roughly $25 a =
yard was found.

De

-----Original Message-----
The discussion I remember began when Julian Wilson (Hi, Julian!) =
mentioned that he had bought some batiste to make banners with from a =
local supplier on (Old) Jersey. Lots of us got very excited. Upon =
investigation, however, it turned out to be cotton rather than linen, =
IIRC.


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Status: RO

 
> Since I remember that you're rather shortwaisted, I'd adjust to
> shorten the pattern at the waist & hip. Bring the indicated W & H
> marks up to match yours. You may also need to make adjustment at 
> the
> neck, bustline & across the shoulder since IIRC you're bustier than
> the typical B or C cup Folkwear designs for.

No waist/hip marks on my patterns -- either I got a misprinted copy or
Folkwear is aiming this pattern at the more experienced sewers.  I see
mockups in my future.  Fortunately I got two large boxes of mockup fabric
for my birthday.

I have an occasionally-updated LiveJournal.  As I work out the
alterations (I also have to upsize this pattern), would it be useful to
anyone if I put the alteration notes up there?

> Have fun at GenCon, I'm missing this year.

So am I -- I can only afford (in money and vacation time) one big trip
per year, and Costume Con was in driving range.

Leah
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Special Festival at The Textile Museum Next Week!
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Status: RO

I just received this announcement and thought that other members of 
h-costume who live in the Washington D.C. area might be 
interested.  It's on the wrong coast for me. :'(

Joan in Sacramento, CA
Spinner and weaver who loves such events as this one


>Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:16:20 +0000 (GMT)
>From: The Textile Museum <info@textilemuseum.org>
>Reply-To: "The Textile Museum" <The_Textile_Museum_rqqyszw@cmpgnr.com>
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
>Special Festival at The Textile Museum Next Week!
>
>Woven Dreams: Textiles and Music from Malaysian Borneo
>Wednesday, July 25
>
>Join us on Wednesday, July 25 for a daylong celebration of Malaysian culture.
>
>Free, drop-in daytime events:
> From 11 am to 1:30 pm and again from 3:30 to 5 pm, watch Iban 
> master weaver Nancy Ngali create a pua kumba cloth on a floor loom. 
> This traditional ceremonial cloth is known as a "woven dream" 
> because it is believed that the weaving goddess Kumang gives the 
> design and pattern to the weaver through dreams. From 12 to 4 pm, 
> visitors can create a palm frond grasshopper with artist Michael Lim.
>
>Evening lecture and performance (advance registration required):
>At 6:30 pm, scholar and author Edric Ong will speak on the topic: 
>"Sustaining the Arts and Crafts of Traditional Cultures in the 
>Modern World." A performance of traditional Bornean music and dance 
>follows the talk.
>
>Fee for the evening lecture and performance: $5/members; 
>$8/non-members. Advance registration is required. Call (202) 
>667-0441, ext. 64 or 
><http://cmpgnr.com/r.html?c=1009087&r=1008296&t=1094323250&l=1&d=88557667&u=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etextilemuseum%2eorg%2fPDFs%2fgeneral%5fregistration%5fform%2epdf&g=0&f=-1>click 
>here for a registration form.
>
>Don't miss this unique opportunity to see traditional weaving 
>firsthand and learn more about Malaysian culture!
>
>Images courtesy of Edric Ong.
>
>
>[]
>
>
>
>[]
>
>
>
>
>
><http://cmpgnr.com/r.html?c=1009087&r=1008296&t=1094323250&l=1&d=88557666&u=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etextilemuseum%2eorg&g=0&f=-1>The 
>Textile Museum is located at 2320 S Street, NW, Washington, D.C.
>Metro: Dupont Circle, Q Street exit.
>
>Hours are Monday through Saturday 10 am to 5 pm and Sunday 1 to 5 
>pm. Admission is free with a suggested donation of $5 for 
>non-members. For more information, call (202) 667-0441 or 
><http://cmpgnr.com/r.html?c=1009087&r=1008296&t=1094323250&l=1&d=88557666&u=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etextilemuseum%2eorg&g=0&f=-1>visit 
>The TM Web site.
>
>
>You are subscribed as joanmj@surewest.net. To unsubscribe please 
><http://cmpgnr.com/r.html?c=1009087&r=1008296&t=1094323250&l=6&ea=joanmj@surewest.net&la=1&o=-75>click 
>here.
>
>[]
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

I have also a supplier of very fine batiste linnen. My one is 100 % linnen. 
But its very expensive, no bargains here, you have to pay for it!
I have 3 meters waiting for a new shirt with cotton lace trimmings.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 9:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


Hi De,

That *might* be the cambric I found. It's at least as light as batiste, if 
not moreso. I can only get it wholesale and have to buy in bulk. In North 
America, I  get it from Ulster Linen. I believe they also have a parent 
company somewhere in the UK.

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose 
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art.
-Leonardo da Vinci
Once upon a time there was a discussion on batiste weight linen and a source
was posted. I thought I saved the URL but I can't find it in my link files.
Could someone with the link please post it and post (if you remember) the
name of that type of linen as I know it isn't batiste.







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	<222382.71962.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

=20
Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com

One looks like a reissue of the "Scotch/Irish lass pattern of a few
years' ago. It is #3623

The others are by Deborah Woodbridge and are full-rig Marie Antoinette
mode. The underpinnings : stays, pannier/petticoat and pockets looks
pretty good. The gown pattern isn't bad, but the wig is full-on
Victorian-Edwardian through '20's snow-white costume wig. The numbers
are #3635 and #3637

Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!

Cindy Abel
=20
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 08:59:40 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

Ooo yum! :-D Who?

Thanks!

Your note re: splitting the silk thread was very interesting and a
definate keeper!

Arlys

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:20:17 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> I have also a supplier of very fine batiste linnen. My one is 100 % 
> linnen. 
> But its very expensive, no bargains here, you have to pay for it!
> I have 3 meters waiting for a new shirt with cotton lace trimmings.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 9:06 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
> 
> 
> Hi De,
> 
> That *might* be the cambric I found. It's at least as light as 
> batiste, if 
> not moreso. I can only get it wholesale and have to buy in bulk. In 
> North 
> America, I  get it from Ulster Linen. I believe they also have a 
> parent 
> company somewhere in the UK.
> 
> Kathy
> 
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with 
> a rose 
> Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
> It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
> Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art.
> -Leonardo da Vinci
> Once upon a time there was a discussion on batiste weight linen and 
> a source
> was posted. I thought I saved the URL but I can't find it in my link 
> files.
> Could someone with the link please post it and post (if you 
> remember) the
> name of that type of linen as I know it isn't batiste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving 
> junk email 
> the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail at 
> http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=ca
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>  
> Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
> you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com
> 
.....
> 
> Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!


Oooh! Lots of fun new costumes this month.

They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.


If anybody outside the US wants to take advantage of the sale, email me 
and we can work something out.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>> Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
>> you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com
>>
> .....
>>
>> Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!
>
>
> Oooh! Lots of fun new costumes this month.
>
> They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.
>

Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for  
$0.99 ...  Was this book out yet?  noooooooooo.  harrumph!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

Susan B. Farmer wrote:

>>
>> They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.
>>
> 
> Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for $0.99 
> ...  Was this book out yet?  noooooooooo.  harrumph!
> 

I hate it when that happens. Worse, when the book is out, but the local 
store doesn't have the patterns yet. That's really frustrating.

Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time, but they like to tear 
the top of the envelope off when you buy them on sale. I can see marking 
the envelope like Hancock's does, so it can't be returned for full 
price, but the envelope flap often has important sizing information on 
it! I refuse to buy patterns at Hobby Lobby any more because of that.



Dawn


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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:33:55 -0400
From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

LOL!  They not only are the exact same pattern... just a different
envelope... you can still get the original by clicking the "Out of Print"
link and choosing "Historical" as your category.  *g*  It's #8855...

I do rather like the Marie Antoinette sacque back though.  Movie costumes
can be fun...

Amused,
Meli


Cynthia wrote: ------------------------------

>
> Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
> you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com
>
> One looks like a reissue of the "Scotch/Irish lass pattern of a few
> years' ago. It is #3623
>
> The others are by Deborah Woodbridge and are full-rig Marie Antoinette
> mode. The underpinnings : stays, pannier/petticoat and pockets looks
> pretty good. The gown pattern isn't bad, but the wig is full-on
> Victorian-Edwardian through '20's snow-white costume wig. The numbers
> are #3635 and #3637
>
> Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!
>
> Cindy Abel
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

Dear Cynthia,
That was a nice surprice. Very well done. The collour could be changed to 
more historical accurate, but not bad at all.............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns



Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com

One looks like a reissue of the "Scotch/Irish lass pattern of a few
years' ago. It is #3623

The others are by Deborah Woodbridge and are full-rig Marie Antoinette
mode. The underpinnings : stays, pannier/petticoat and pockets looks
pretty good. The gown pattern isn't bad, but the wig is full-on
Victorian-Edwardian through '20's snow-white costume wig. The numbers
are #3635 and #3637

Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!

Cindy Abel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
>>>
>>> They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.
>>>
>>
>> Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for  =20
>> $0.99 ...  Was this book out yet?  noooooooooo.  harrumph!
>>
>
> I hate it when that happens. Worse, when the book is out, but the local
> store doesn't have the patterns yet. That's really frustrating.

I had to pick up a prescription at WalMart today -- and they don't =20
have the new book.

>
> Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time, but they like to
> tear the top of the envelope off when you buy them on sale. I can see
> marking the envelope like Hancock's does, so it can't be returned for
> full price, but the envelope flap often has important sizing
> information on it! I refuse to buy patterns at Hobby Lobby any more
> because of that.
>

This was my first HL pattern buying experience ($0.99 and no limit -- =20
WooHoo!) but she didn't tear the flaps off on the patterns that I =20
bought.  I'll keep that in mind next time I go there.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns/Hobby Lobby
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1200514318.c717b2@thibault.org>
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Status: RO

Dawn wrote:
>
> Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time, but they like to 
> tear the top of the envelope off when you buy them on sale. I can see 
> marking the envelope like Hancock's does, so it can't be returned for 
> full price, but the envelope flap often has important sizing 
> information on it! I refuse to buy patterns at Hobby Lobby any more 
> because of that.
Any idea why they do this?  I hope it's not why some shady place rip the 
covers off of remaindered paperback books!

cv
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:27:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns/Hobby Lobby
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Not all places that rip the covers off books or
patterns are shady. Distribution companies tear off
covers of paperback books that are not sold and send
them back for credit. The books are then destroyed but
some places donate them to shelters etc. There are
people that take advantage of this but not everyone.

Kenet

--- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1200514318.c717b2@thibault.org> wrote:

> Dawn wrote:
> >
> > Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time,
> but they like to 
> > tear the top of the envelope off when you buy them
> on sale. I can see 
> > marking the envelope like Hancock's does, so it
> can't be returned for 
> > full price, but the envelope flap often has
> important sizing 
> > information on it! I refuse to buy patterns at
> Hobby Lobby any more 
> > because of that.
> Any idea why they do this?  I hope it's not why some
> shady place rip the 
> covers off of remaindered paperback books!
> 
> cv
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



       
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Dawn wrote:
>>
>> Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time, but they like to 
>> tear the top of the envelope off when you buy them on sale. I can see 
>> marking the envelope like Hancock's does, so it can't be returned for 
>> full price, but the envelope flap often has important sizing 
>> information on it! I refuse to buy patterns at Hobby Lobby any more 
>> because of that.

> Any idea why they do this?  I hope it's not why some shady place rip the 
> covers off of remaindered paperback books!

They tear the flap off (when you buy it) so they can tell it was bought 
at 99 cents, and so it can't be returned without the receipt for the 
$16.95 retail price in cash or store credit.

All the H-L stores here in KC do that to me. Other fabric stores either 
have a stamp that says "sale", or they write "sale" on the front of the 
envelope, which doesn't bother me as much.



Dawn
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

Ohhh... are you talking about the bishop's lawm or lawn? That's similar to =
batiste. Lawm, cambric, voile, nainsook, organdy and batiste are all *gener=
ally* in the same category. Some apply more often to cottons, others to lin=
ens, sometimes both. The industry is quite fickle in that regard. I did fin=
d a useful set of definitions, though:=0Ahttp://www.ntgclarity.com/ICCF&D/c=
otton.htm=0ABatiste=0A=0AFibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.=0A=0AWeave: Pl=
ain=0A=0ACharacteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver.=
 Light weight,=0Asoft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but fine=
r.  It belongs to the =0Alawn family; almost transparent.  It is made of ti=
ghtly twisted, combed yarns and =0Amercerized finish. Sometimes it is print=
ed or embroidered.  In a heavier weight, it =0Ais used for foundation garme=
nts and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered=0Adesign.  Consid=
ered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight.  Now =0Ausually m=
ade of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.=0ACambri=
c=0A=0AFibre: Cotton, also linen.=0A=0AWeave: Plain=0A=0ACharacteristics: S=
oft, closely woven, light.  Either bleached or piece dyed.  Highly=0Amercer=
ized, lint free.  Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss.  Lower=
=0Aqualities have a smooth bright finish.  Similar to batiste but is stiffe=
r and fewer slubs.=0ALaunders very well.  Has good body, sews and finishes =
well.  Originally made in Cambria, France=0Aof linen and used for Church em=
broidery and table linens.=0A =0AUses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nig=
htgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts=0Aand blouses.=0ALawn=0A=0AFibr=
e: Cotton=0A=0AWeave: Plain=0A=0ACharacteristics: Word derived from Laon, a=
 city in France, where linen lawn was =0Amanufactured extensively.  Light w=
eight, sheer, soft, washable.  It is crispier than =0Avoile but not as cris=
p as organdy.  Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel.  =0AMade with e=
ither carded or combed yarns.  Comes in white or may be dyed or printed.  W=
hen =0Amade with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight lustre it is call=
ed nainsook.=0A=0AUses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, =
lingerie, collars, cuffs,=0Ainfant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.=0ANainso=
ok=0A=0AFibre: Cotton=0A=0AWeave: Plain=0A=0ACharacteristics: Produced in t=
he finishing processes from the same gray goods as used=0Afor batiste, camb=
ric, lawn.  Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in=0Athe bet=
ter qualities (mercerization). Slightly heavier than batiste.  Like lawn=0A=
but not as crisp.  Soft, lacks body.  Usually found in white but also comes=
 in pastel =0Acolours and some printed.=0A=0AUses: tucked or embroidered, b=
louses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.=0AOrgandy=0A=0AFibre: Cott=
on.=0A=0AWeave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.=0A=0ACh=
aracteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns.  Crispness is due to a fini=
sh=0Awith starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness=
 obtained=0Awith chemicals (Heberlein process).  Wrinkles badly unless give=
n a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). =0AMay be bleached, dyed, printed, =
frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.=0A=0AUses: Fussy children's wear,=
 trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial=0Aflowers, doll=
s clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons=
.=0AVoile=0A=0A=0AFibre: Cotton - also wool and called "Voile de laine".=0A=
=0A=0AWeave: Plain, loosely woven.=0A=0A=0ACharacteristics: Sheer and very =
light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed=0Ayarns. To obtain a top=
 quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used.  Voile drapes =0Aand g=
athers very well.  The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy=
 yarns.=0AHas a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand.  "Voile de Lain=
e" is wool voile. =0A=0A=0AUses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.=0A=0AIt was me=
 whom checked out Julian's supplier in Jersey. It was indeed cotton, unfort=
unately. $25/yard doesn't sound too insane for good quality lightweight lin=
en. I sell my period-width, better cambric for $14/yard (Czech origin), and=
 the wider, very high quality for $36 (Belgian origin) Canadian dollars. As=
 for the link you were looking for in the first place, I can't recall offha=
nd where it could have been. Search the above terms and see what you wind u=
p with. Typically, you'll find them at heirloom sewing shops, which tend to=
 price gouge a little, if you ask me. Hope this helps.=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErm=
ine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or=
 barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed =
vert a lions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you migh=
t have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is =
the beginning of knowledge. =0AWhere the spirit does not work with the hand=
, there is no art.=0A-Leonardo da Vinci=0A=0A=0Abut there was further discu=
ssion and a name of the sheer linen (it was not called batiste)was said and=
 a site that sold it for roughly $25 a yard was found.=0A=0ADe=0A=0A-----Or=
iginal Message-----=0AThe discussion I remember began when Julian Wilson (H=
i, Julian!) mentioned that he had bought some batiste to make banners with =
from a local supplier on (Old) Jersey. Lots of us got very excited. Upon in=
vestigation, however, it turned out to be cotton rather than linen, IIRC.=
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Ask a question on any topic and get ans=
wers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http=
://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Status: RO


Does anybody know anything about this book?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200129359893

Thanks!
susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:51:39 -0500
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Status: RO

The blue dress color comes close to the blue dress found on a Dutch(?)
painting of a woman. Her husband's portrait with him in a smoking jacket(?)
was the same shade of blue. I posted both to this site. I don't have the url
saved.

De

-----Original Message-----
Dear Cynthia,
That was a nice surprice. Very well done. The collour could be changed to
more historical accurate, but not bad at all.............

Bjarne




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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 16:00:21 -0500
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Status: RO

I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their name and
are they on line?

De

-----Original Message-----
I have also a supplier of very fine batiste linnen. My one is 100 % linnen.
But its very expensive, no bargains here, you have to pay for it!
I have 3 meters waiting for a new shirt with cotton lace trimmings.

Bjarne


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Status: RO

Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> 
> Does anybody know anything about this book?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200129359893
> 


It's a children's survey book with line drawings and watercolors as 
shown on the cover. There's a whole series of books by the same author, 
houses, great painters, various periods in history. Your local library 
might have some of them. There's a review of it on Amazon, if you 
haven't already checked.



Dawn
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:24:13 +0200
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Status: RO

She is not online, but i have her email address. Ill find it for you 
tomorrow. She is located in Denmark. She had a wonderfull embroidery shop in 
Copenhagen, but it closed down, she told me she still can get the linnen for 
me, i baught from her before christmass.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


>I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their name and
> are they on line?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I have also a supplier of very fine batiste linnen. My one is 100 % 
> linnen.
> But its very expensive, no bargains here, you have to pay for it!
> I have 3 meters waiting for a new shirt with cotton lace trimmings.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO


On Fri, 20 Jul 2007, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Does anybody know anything about this book?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200129359893

I haven't seen that one, but the seller has a good selection of
interesting costume/needlework/quilting books, and promises more coming.

--Robin

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>
>> Does anybody know anything about this book?
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200129359893
>>
>
>
> It's a children's survey book with line drawings and watercolors as
> shown on the cover. There's a whole series of books by the same author,
> houses, great painters, various periods in history. Your local library
> might have some of them. There's a review of it on Amazon, if you
> haven't already checked.
>

LOL.  Probably should have tagged that Migraine Alert.  I never even  
thought of Amazon!  That's about what I figured.


Thanks
susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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Status: RO

Hi,
Sorry for the confusing. I was talking about the Marie Antoinette dress, the 
francaise pleated back one.....

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 10:51 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns


> The blue dress color comes close to the blue dress found on a Dutch(?)
> painting of a woman. Her husband's portrait with him in a smoking 
> jacket(?)
> was the same shade of blue. I posted both to this site. I don't have the 
> url
> saved.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Dear Cynthia,
> That was a nice surprice. Very well done. The collour could be changed to
> more historical accurate, but not bad at all.............
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:52:27 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns/Hobby Lobby
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/20/2007 4:37:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

They  tear the flap off (when you buy it) so they can tell it was bought 
at 99  cents, and so it can't be returned without the receipt for the 
$16.95  retail price in cash or store credit.

All the H-L stores here in KC do  that to me. Other fabric stores either 
have a stamp that says "sale", or  they write "sale" on the front of the 
envelope, which doesn't bother me as  much.




Well, actually, from someone who worked in fabric/pattern retail for a LONG  
time, we tear the flaps off to make sure the patterns get re-ordered--we are  
supposed to keep a certain stock on hand at all times.  We also do a  periodic 
(I think it was quarterly) inventory to check that we have what we are  
supposed to and make sure pulled patterns get culled.
 
Some stores seem to carry that further and tear off more than just the tab,  
which used to be perforated, or even part of the front of the envelope.   When 
I worked at Hancock, we double-stamped the front of the cheapie sale  
patterns so we could tell them apart.
 
When patterns are pulled, only the envelopes are returned--the tissue is  
discarded--we can only hope it is re-cycled these days!  And yes, in the  old da
ys, some stores did sell just the tissues (or let employees take them  home, 
which I gues is just as dishonest).
 
But as to the pattern under discussion--it looks pretty Ehhhh to me--good  
costume, maybe, but not reenactor-quality.  And the wig, as someone  commented, 
is truly awful!  I was reminded of Moira Shearer's "Marie  Antoinette" (as 
reported in Edward Maeder's "Hollywood and History").
 
Ann Wass
 
Ann Wass



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Quite a nice surprise for me, too! I think the undergarments pattern could really be of use, I wish it had only come earlier, now that I've finally figured out how to make the pannier pattern... The blue dress is not bad at all, well, the wig and the yellow ribbons are a bit disturbing, but I think this might be one of the most accurate 18th century patterns from Simplicity...

       
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 04:08:48 -0500
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Status: RO

I have come to find that JA and HL, most times have their sales at about the
time the new book is about to come out so that they can make room for the
new patterns. It's quite annoying. I was hoping to get Simplicity 3677 for a
Con in two weeks but my local JA had not got it yet and if they had it,
would not have put it out while the 1.99 sale was going on for Simplicity
patterns. :P
De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 12:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns


Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>> Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
>> you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com
>>
> .....
>>
>> Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!
>
>
> Oooh! Lots of fun new costumes this month.
>
> They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.
>

Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for
$0.99 ...  Was this book out yet?  noooooooooo.  harrumph!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 04:15:40 -0500
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Status: RO

Hmmm..I remember that at the end of the past discuss someone produced a
website so perhaps this woman is not the one I was thinking of. Please hold
off on the email address. I guess what I am going to have to do is do a
major search through the archives and see if I can find the retailer. If
that fails then I will be asking for the woman's email address.
Thank you, greatly appreciated,
De

-----Original Message-----
She is not online, but i have her email address. Ill find it for you
tomorrow. She is located in Denmark. She had a wonderfull embroidery shop in
Copenhagen, but it closed down, she told me she still can get the linnen for
me, i baught from her before christmass.

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
>I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their name and
> are they on line?
>
> De
>


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In a message dated 7/20/2007 2:42:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

The  collour could be changed to 
more historical accurate, but not bad at  all.............




****************
 
 
That's what I was thinking. It's the fabric choice, and the way the  
decoration is done that is the "bad" thing....and the wig! But one could get a  very 
impressive dress outta these patterns.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:54:55 -0700
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Status: RO

Curious about the back of the corset - Is that inverted V at the small =
of the back correct?

http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3D3635<http://www.si=
mplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3D3635>

Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

You may be thinking of The Linen House. =
http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.com/>  I have their =
complete sample collection.
Their Napoli, Voile De Lin, Lille, Roma & Veneszia would all work for =
under clothing.

I'd say the Napoli is the softest and finest, but I bet if you wrote and =
asked them they would help.

I'll be there in September!  Weeee! I wonder if they'd mind if I wrapped =
myself up in a few yards just to get a rush!=20

Sg


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 2:15 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


  Hmmm..I remember that at the end of the past discuss someone produced =
a
  website so perhaps this woman is not the one I was thinking of. Please =
hold
  off on the email address. I guess what I am going to have to do is do =
a
  major search through the archives and see if I can find the retailer. =
If
  that fails then I will be asking for the woman's email address.
  Thank you, greatly appreciated,
  De

  -----Original Message-----
  She is not online, but i have her email address. Ill find it for you
  tomorrow. She is located in Denmark. She had a wonderfull embroidery =
shop in
  Copenhagen, but it closed down, she told me she still can get the =
linnen for
  me, i baught from her before christmass.

  Bjarne
  ----- Original Message -----
  >I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their name =
and
  > are they on line?
  >
  > De
  >


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
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Status: RO

At 16:54 21/07/2007, you wrote:
>Curious about the back of the corset - Is that inverted V at the 
>small of the back correct?
>
>http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3635<http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3635>
>
>Sg

Those underwear patterns look like they have come straight from Norah 
Waugh's "Corsets and Crinolines."  The corset is laced edge to edge 
in the Simplicity pattern, which I prefer not to do, and I always 
have the back edges level, so no, in my opinion, that inverted "V" is 
not correct.

Suzi

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Status: RO

I was recently given several large bags of vintage fabrics, all of it
either linen or silk. There are several very large pieces of very
tightly woven linen as well as similar large pieces of very tightly
woven silk. (probably 6 to 8 yard pieces)  All are natural ecru color.
The problem is they have gotten brown "age spots". I know I can probably
dye a darkish color to hide them, but I'm wondering if there is any way
to remove the spots totally.  The silk and the linen are both in
excellent condition otherwise, with no weakening at all that I can tell.
A couple of the pieces have been washed and dryed, and this didn't seem
to really hurt them at all, only tightened them up a bit. 

I'm also wondering what to do with this, if it can be used. The silk has
a very stiff hand but very few slubs. It rather handles like a heavy
dupioni, but without the slubby texture. It is not shiny or lustery
either. It just seems strong and durable, not glitzy and glamorous. 

As for the background story, this was part of a "Life Collection" of an
80-something woman who lives where I work. She's widowed and childless,
and has decided it's time to clear up some things while she's still
able. I was told the linen came from Panama in the 1950's (so it may not
be true linen but some other natural fiber)  I was also given a bag of
patterns from the 40's, which are great fun. She was a tall, large-boned
woman so her patterns won't take too much to size up to fit me, as well
as the styles being suitable for me. (Yeah, it was Christmas in June for
me~!)

So my questions are: 
How do I get brown spots out, and what can I use this unusual fabric
for? 

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions!

Linda

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
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Status: RO

All are natural ecru color.
> The problem is they have gotten brown "age spots". 

Since I assume these are unused fabrics, and therefore don't have 
beverage spills or the like, what you are seeing is probably some form 
of mold.

I know I can probably
> dye a darkish color to hide them, but I'm wondering if there is any way
> to remove the spots totally.  

Bleach may kill the mold, though that does not necessarily remove the 
stain the mold creates.  Look up remedies for removing mildew. Mildew is 
little black specks, which can cluster together into a solid mass. 
Fabric can mold in other ways, but the methods for removing different 
molds are alike.  There's a reddish-brown mold stain that I remove from 
antique white clothing with oxygen bleach.  Luckily, I have not had to 
deal with it on colored clothing.  (It helps me not to buy clothing with 
such stains to begin with.)

The most effective way to cover the stains is probably to dye the 
fabrics. If stains are not widespread on a fabric, perhaps you could cut 
around them when cutting out.

Note that mold spores get around; meaning that if you put these fabrics 
next to other fabrics or clothing, and the mold has not been killed, 
then your other fabrics and clothing may eventually acquire brown spots. 
  Especially if they, or your general climate, is damp.  It's true that 
mold spores are always floating around in the air, but you do 
significantly increase your chances of getting mold on a fabric by 
storing it right next to one that already has mold.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:45:08 -0400
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Status: RO

Thanks, Fran, for your very helpful hints~!

I hadn't thought this might be mold... hmmm... Yes, I live in the
mid-Atlantic on the beach, and we have a considerable humidity issue
year-round. Especially since the woman lives in a condo right on the
beach. And yes, these are definitely brown, not black, stains, and the
fabric was never used, only folded and stored for decades. How she
stored it, I have no idea but I could ask next week. Could have been a
nice trunk or chest, or it could have been a cardboard box at the bottom
of the closet. I just don't know. 

I've no problem with oxy-bleaching the linens, but what about the silk?
I know bleach will melt silk, is oxybleach the same threat? Since it
isn't a high-shine silk to begin with it might be ok. Cutting around the
brown stains isn't really an option. I'll try the Oxyclean and see how
it comes out. Next step would be dyeing, but I worry about getting an
even job. I guess if all else fails I could get "artistic" with it. ;D

Linda


-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Lavolta Press

> The problem is they have gotten brown "age spots". 

Since I assume these are unused fabrics, and therefore don't have 
beverage spills or the like, what you are seeing is probably some form 
of mold. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Question about wool for the WW1 french uniforms
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Status: RO

Hi,

I am looking for fabric wool to make french uniforms of the WW1 :
- weight : around 500/750 grams / meter (16 - 26 oz)
- color : horizon blue  (mixture of three wools: - white wool 35%; - 
dark blue wool 15%; - wool light blue 50%)

The blue is to reproduce French soldiers uniforms of the WW1 (1915 to 
1918). http://www.nicecollection.fr/_Divers/WWI-French_Blue_Wool.jpg
<http://www.nicecollection.fr/_Divers/WWI-French_Red_Wool.jpg>

Somebody knows where I can buy this wool blue horizon?

Best regards,
Eric

mail : contact@nicecollection.fr



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 20:49:11 +0200
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Status: RO

Maybe its because the stays dont have enough tabs for the hips, so that it 
spreads out two much at the center back bottom.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?


> At 16:54 21/07/2007, you wrote:
>>Curious about the back of the corset - Is that inverted V at the small of 
>>the back correct?
>>
>>http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3635<http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3635>
>>
>>Sg
>
> Those underwear patterns look like they have come straight from Norah 
> Waugh's "Corsets and Crinolines."  The corset is laced edge to edge in the 
> Simplicity pattern, which I prefer not to do, and I always have the back 
> edges level, so no, in my opinion, that inverted "V" is not correct.
>
> Suzi
>
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
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Status: RO



Linda Rice wrote:

> Thanks, Fran, for your very helpful hints~!
> 
> I hadn't thought this might be mold... hmmm... Yes, I live in the
> mid-Atlantic on the beach, and we have a considerable humidity issue
> year-round. Especially since the woman lives in a condo right on the
> beach. And yes, these are definitely brown, not black, stains, and the
> fabric was never used, only folded and stored for decades. How she
> stored it, I have no idea but I could ask next week. Could have been a
> nice trunk or chest, or it could have been a cardboard box at the bottom
> of the closet. I just don't know. 

If she lives right on the beach, it doesn't matter how she stored the 
fabric, mold is very likely.


> 
> I've no problem with oxy-bleaching the linens, but what about the silk?
> I know bleach will melt silk, is oxybleach the same threat? 

I'd suggest test-bleaching a swatch.


Since it
> isn't a high-shine silk to begin with it might be ok. Cutting around the
> brown stains isn't really an option. I'll try the Oxyclean and see how
> it comes out. Next step would be dyeing, but I worry about getting an
> even job. I guess if all else fails I could get "artistic" with it. ;D
>

In my experience if you dye a light-colored fabric that has stains which 
are not too dark, and your dye is a deep to dark color, dyeing will 
often cover the stains fine.

Fran
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:26:08 -0400
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Status: RO

Will do, and will let you know if I succeed. 

Thanks again,

Linda



[On Behalf Of Lavolta Press]

I'd suggest test-bleaching a swatch.

In my experience if you dye a light-colored fabric that has stains which

are not too dark, and your dye is a deep to dark color, dyeing will 
often cover the stains fine.

Fran


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
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Status: RO

It is possible that the brown spots on the linen(?) fabric are  
permanent--cellulose will oxidize over time to form oxy-cellulose, and this  change is 
non-reversible.
 
Can you use the linen for linings and underpinnings of some sort?
 
Good luck!
 
Ann Wass



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Status: RO

Thursday I went to a local second hand store to check out textile corner. 
The usual fare is acrylic yarn odds and ends, plastic canvas books and 
scraps of quilt material. (However, once I found several yards of hand-woven 
linen toweling from Ireland!)

Well, what a FIND was waiting for me! I finally straightened it out and 
measured it today. SEVENTEEN (!) yards of 60 inch wide fabric. It's a 
beautiful shade of dark blue with maroon, light blue and gold large floral 
motifs. The whole piece weighs just over 11 pounds!  It's about the weight 
of light denim -- heavier than shirt weight, lighter than jeans weight.  The 
weave seems to be an undulating twill background with brocade sections where 
the flowers are. Nice and tight, no easily snagged parts. It also doesn't 
have that pellon-like backing that is often found on upholstery fabric. It 
feels like all or mostly cotton fiber content.  (oh, and the total price: 
$20! It probably cost more per yard when it was new)

I bought it with the intention of making window and bunk curtains in my 
vintage (1965) camper, but the more I think about it, the more I think it 
might be too dark for such a small space.

Maybe I'll have to make a full circle floor hooded length cape and really 
give people a *reason* to think I'm nuts....  I have no idea what Historical 
purpose this fabric could be used for, but the cape might make a good entry 
for the Aluminum Swan competition :-)

Denise B
Iowa 

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:08:27 -0400
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Status: RO

You know, this was my first impression... that the brown spots remind me
of the way newspaper "burns" when it gets really old. This fabric has a
"haven't seen the light of day since Kennedy was in office" smell, but
not a musty or mildew smell. Now, I'm much less sure than I was this
morning!

As far as its use... I have no idea!!!! It's far too heavy to use for
linings. Might work well for corsets if I needed a couple dozen of them.
:D I'm thinking maybe do some creative dyeing and make pants and an
oversize shirt outfit. As far as historical, I'd love to hear
suggestions! 

The big pieces of silk are equally heavy, and has yellowed a lot. There
are also some exquisite smaller pieces of different kinds of silks, at
least one that screams "Veil! I want to be an historic veil!" every time
I look at it. ;-p  All of them are marked in some way, so I guess I'll
be spending time soaking and watching and hoping. Or, washing, dyeing
and hoping. 

Here's to hope...

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 3:53 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics

It is possible that the brown spots on the linen(?) fabric are  
permanent--cellulose will oxidize over time to form oxy-cellulose, and
this  change is 
non-reversible.
 
Can you use the linen for linings and underpinnings of some sort?
 
Good luck!
 
Ann Wass


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:08:53 -0500
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Status: RO

Would butterick 4484 work better?

-----Original Message-----
At 16:54 21/07/2007, you wrote:
>Curious about the back of the corset - Is that inverted V at the 
>small of the back correct?
>
>http://www.simplicity.com/designFrontBack.cfm?design=3635
>
>Sg

Those underwear patterns look like they have come straight from Norah 
Waugh's "Corsets and Crinolines."  The corset is laced edge to edge 
in the Simplicity pattern, which I prefer not to do, and I always 
have the back edges level, so no, in my opinion, that inverted "V" is 
not correct.

Suzi


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:14:38 -0500
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Status: RO

Thank you. The linens are still to thick. I am looking for linen that is
about as sheer as the veil on this Madonna
http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/lippi/p-lippi12.htm
or
http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/lippi/p-lippi1.htm

I know that one can get silk that sheer and I know there is cotton that
sheer but I am told that on can find linen that sheer.
Thank you,
De

-----Original Message-----
You may be thinking of The Linen House.
http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.com/>  I have their complete
sample collection.
Their Napoli, Voile De Lin, Lille, Roma & Veneszia would all work for under
clothing.

I'd say the Napoli is the softest and finest, but I bet if you wrote and
asked them they would help.

I'll be there in September!  Weeee! I wonder if they'd mind if I wrapped
myself up in a few yards just to get a rush!

Sg


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
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Status: RO

This fabric has a
> "haven't seen the light of day since Kennedy was in office" smell, but
> not a musty or mildew smell. Now, I'm much less sure than I was this
> morning!
> 

The light-reddish-brown mold doesn't smell.

Fran
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/21/2007 12:21:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

The  corset is laced edge to edge 
in the Simplicity pattern, which I prefer not  to do, and I always 
have the back edges level, so no, in my opinion, that  inverted "V" is 
not correct.



**************
 
I don't think it's an inverted V. I think it's a straight back laced edge  to 
edge and is spreading apart over the butt...like the tabs spreading over the  
hips. The drawing makes it look like a V. But I could be wrong, not seeing 
the  pattern pieces.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns-corset question - Bjarne?
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In a message dated 7/21/2007 5:09:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Would  butterick 4484 work better?




*************
 
It, too is from "Corsets & Crinolines". It's a late 1700s corset. It's  not 
my favorite pattern. The Simplicity looks to be more useful as it is more  
"generic" of the whole period.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 07:22:44 -0500
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Status: RO

> brown stains isn't really an option. I'll try the Oxyclean and see how
> it comes out. Next step would be dyeing, but I worry about getting an
> even job. I guess if all else fails I could get "artistic" with it. ;D


If you get to the point where you want to try the artistic route -- I'd use 
a selection of similar colors and try for an effect similar to "sponge 
painting" on walls.

Silk is so easy to dye -- you can sponge or squirt or drip acid dye in 
random patterns, wrap in plastic and steam (over water or nuke it); then 
rinse and repeat as often as you like. Buy some cheap silk scarves to 
practice with if you have something specific in mind (and keep notes!).

I'm thinking of something like a very subtle camouflage (very subtle!) 
Several shades of greens and browns swirled together and overlapping until 
there is no real "pattern" just one color blending into the next.

I think I'd make pair of silk pajamas and maybe a lovely summer night gown 
with the lightweight linen, but I can't help you with the historical 
suggestions...

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

Hi De,
This thin linnen is not available today. I can tell that for sure.

How about using a thin silk in stead?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:14 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


> Thank you. The linens are still to thick. I am looking for linen that is
> about as sheer as the veil on this Madonna
> http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/lippi/p-lippi12.htm
> or
> http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/lippi/p-lippi1.htm
>
> I know that one can get silk that sheer and I know there is cotton that
> sheer but I am told that on can find linen that sheer.
> Thank you,
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> You may be thinking of The Linen House.
> http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.com/>  I have their 
> complete
> sample collection.
> Their Napoli, Voile De Lin, Lille, Roma & Veneszia would all work for 
> under
> clothing.
>
> I'd say the Napoli is the softest and finest, but I bet if you wrote and
> asked them they would help.
>
> I'll be there in September!  Weeee! I wonder if they'd mind if I wrapped
> myself up in a few yards just to get a rush!
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO

Thanks for the site, Saragrace.  Have you ordered from them and what do you
think of their linen?  I am always looking for good sources.  Also, what
sample cards did you order to get a range of what they offer?  Do you mean
all of the Home Collection, New Card and Artist Canvas collections?

I'm easily confused!

(Have a grand time in Belgium! - we were there and in the Netherlands last
fall and the art museums are fabulous.)

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: July 21, 2007 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen

You may be thinking of The Linen House.
http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.com/>  I have their complete
sample collection.
Their Napoli, Voile De Lin, Lille, Roma & Veneszia would all work for under
clothing.

I'd say the Napoli is the softest and finest, but I bet if you wrote and
asked them they would help.

I'll be there in September!  Weeee! I wonder if they'd mind if I wrapped
myself up in a few yards just to get a rush! 

Sg


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 2:15 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


  Hmmm..I remember that at the end of the past discuss someone produced a
  website so perhaps this woman is not the one I was thinking of. Please
hold
  off on the email address. I guess what I am going to have to do is do a
  major search through the archives and see if I can find the retailer. If
  that fails then I will be asking for the woman's email address.
  Thank you, greatly appreciated,
  De

  -----Original Message-----
  She is not online, but i have her email address. Ill find it for you
  tomorrow. She is located in Denmark. She had a wonderfull embroidery shop
in
  Copenhagen, but it closed down, she told me she still can get the linnen
for
  me, i baught from her before christmass.

  Bjarne
  ----- Original Message -----
  >I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their name and
  > are they on line?
  >
  > De
  >


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 22 20:56:56 2007
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Seeking a citation
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Status: RO


I'm hoping someone here can save me a long trip to an out-of-the way
library.

Does anyone have on hand a copy of this book:

An Illustrated Dictionary of Historic Costume (Dover Pictorial Archive
Series) 
by James R. Planche 

http://store.doverpublications.com/0486423239.html

Yes, I've ILL'd it, but that could take weeks.

What I really need is Planche's 1876 "Cyclopaedia of costume," but this is
a facsimile of it and a lot more likely to be on people's shelves! If I
can ascertain whether the fact I'm looking for is in the book, I can meet
my immediate deadline, and check the real book (in a rare book room, not
particularly close) at my leisure to verify later.

I'm pretty sure no one here has Planche's 1847 History of British Costume
(or, for that matter, any of the other numerous later editions), but if
you do, please e-mail me.

--Robin


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F09AD1293@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:19:00 +1000
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Status: RO

20 1/2 yds for the Robe A l'francaise 
http://www.simplicity.com/designNavigator.cfm?design=3637, sounds like 
Simplicity has gone overboard as per usual on buying extra yardage for trim 
rather than piecing scraps. Also I'm not sure about the shape and length of 
that point, 18th century experts can correct me but in the line drawing it 
doesn't look right and rather reminds me of a comment I heard about the 
Shakespeare in Love pattern describing the look as 'bodice with a p*nis' 
because there is just this narrow point sticking down at the front rather 
than a more straight line heading downwards to make a V shape. The wig 
really can't be helped, it's what you can buy easily from costume shops and 
I doubt Simplicity would have bothered with a good one for a photo shoot 
(and nothing above the neck is included in the pattern anyway). Although 
with a saque gown you can get away with claiming it's pre 1770s and the big 
hair trend hasn't really gotten underway yet.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: [h-cost] Paul Poiret exhibit
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Status: RO

I just heard a story on NPR about a Paul Poiret exhibit at New York's 
Metropolitan Museum of Art.  Here's the link: 
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=12104454

It's only running through August 5th.  It has 50 ensembles, most of 
them ones he designed for his wife, Denise, and which have never 
before been photographed or been on public display.

If anyone gets a chance to see it, a report would be appreciated.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:02:25 -0400
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Status: RO


      Actually that looks like the stays rather than a stomacher.  =20
The shape and length looks fine.  Generally the stomacher is where =20
you would have some contrast =97 a focal point.  They have that with =20
the bows, but the stomacher could be a different color, too.

      With the underpinnings (3635), it looks like the shift sleeves =20
are drawstring, which is not correct.  Shift sleeves were gathered =20
into cuffs.  Likewise the neckline should not be gathered, either.

      The V at the bottom back of the stays is consistent on the =20
model and the line drawing, so it looks like it's part of the =20
pattern.  And it's not right, either.

      With a few adjustments, though, it could produce something decent.

      -Carol


On Jul 22, 2007, at 9:19 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> 20 1/2 yds for the Robe A l'francaise http://www.simplicity.com/=20
> designNavigator.cfm?design=3D3637, sounds like Simplicity has gone =20
> overboard as per usual on buying extra yardage for trim rather than =20=

> piecing scraps. Also I'm not sure about the shape and length of =20
> that point, 18th century experts can correct me but in the line =20
> drawing it doesn't look right and rather reminds me of a comment I =20
> heard about the Shakespeare in Love pattern describing the look as =20
> 'bodice with a p*nis' because there is just this narrow point =20
> sticking down at the front rather than a more straight line heading =20=

> downwards to make a V shape. The wig really can't be helped, it's =20
> what you can buy easily from costume shops and I doubt Simplicity =20
> would have bothered with a good one for a photo shoot (and nothing =20
> above the neck is included in the pattern anyway). Although with a =20
> saque gown you can get away with claiming it's pre 1770s and the =20
> big hair trend hasn't really gotten underway yet.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
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Just found out about this and thought I'd pass it along:

http://www.wmaillustrated.com/index.htm

Allison
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:12:38 -0500
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Status: RO

I guess I will have to settle on the Linen/cotton blends and silk tends to
insulate and the camicias are for summer.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi De,
This thin linnen is not available today. I can tell that for sure.

How about using a thin silk in stead?

Bjarne



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Status: RO

Toilet Paper Bridal Dress Contest:
http://www.cheap-chic-weddings.com/wedding-contest-2007.html
2006 winners:
http://www.cheap-chic-weddings.com/wedding-contest-2006.html
2005 winners:
http://www.cheap-chic-weddings.com/wedding-contest.html

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: [h-cost] Question about wool for the WW1 french uniforms 
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Status: RO

 
abimelech hainsworth
 
 
_http://www.abimelech.co.uk/_ (http://www.abimelech.co.uk/) 
 
talk to general woollens
 
debs
 
 
In a message dated 22/07/2007 16:36:01 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hi,

I am looking for fabric wool to make french uniforms of the  WW1 :
- weight : around 500/750 grams / meter (16 - 26 oz)
- color :  horizon blue  (mixture of three wools: - white wool 35%; - 
dark blue  wool 15%; - wool light blue 50%)

The blue is to reproduce French  soldiers uniforms of the WW1 (1915 to 
1918).  http://www.nicecollection.fr/_Divers/WWI-French_Blue_Wool.jpg
<http://www.nicecollection.fr/_Divers/WWI-French_Red_Wool.jpg>

Somebody  knows where I can buy this wool blue horizon?

Best  regards,
Eric


 



   
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Subject: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question
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Hi,

I am going to make an anime costume witch has leg o'mutton sleeves.
I never made these before.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Crossplay/AllanSchezar.jpg

I have pattern 3716 from Butterick.
I have light weight cotton and slightly heavier.
Normally shirts are from lightweight cotton but I wonder if that would 
work well with these sleeves.

Should I cut the sleeves on the strait or on the cross grain?

Greetings,
       Deredere
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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:32:10 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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In a message dated 7/22/2007 9:22:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

I doubt  Simplicity would have bothered with a good one for a photo shoot  



***************
 
I dunno. I think the stylist for the shoot has a goal of making it look  like 
something one can get together at home....in the mid-west or the south or  
maybe rural NY state. So they deliberately use fabrics and accessories that  can 
be had by just about anyone anywhere...whose also on a  budget.



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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Linen House - was batiste weight linen
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Status: RO

I bought the whole set at the time, minus the artist canvas.  It was =
about $45 (maybe 7 years ago?).  The products are fabulous.  The linens =
are slub-less, even the heaviest weights.  The color ranges are =
gorgeous, in the most beautiful natural dyed looking colors.  They have =
a selection of "denims" (not quite that heavy) which are really pretty =
for a homespun look.

If I had to be selective, I would get the basic linen card - light =
weight.  That will give you a great range of things to select from to =
dye with, or use as is.  If you are looking for colors for dresses, etc. =
 I would get the Lin De Flandre selection. This has the weight of a =
rayon/linen blend, but a little stiffer.  The Normande range has nice =
colors too, but the samples were completely pasted down so I can't quite =
get a sense of the hand.  I would say it is a little heavier than the =
Lin De Flandre.   I would avoid the Misto....too coarse a weave unless =
you want something like a placemat! =20

Since I bought awhile back, the ranges may not be named the same.  They =
are very helpful and would be able to cross reference them.

As to a light weight lining for Otisto, the Voile de Lin would be great. =
 It is a slightly open weave and not veil weight, but for a soft, light =
lining it would be great.

They aren't cheap, but they are like nothing you find over here or from, =
say, the Linen Store.  The quality is superior.  When I buy from them, =
it is for a special thing...otherwise, I live with the rayon/linen =
blends for dress stuff.

Sg


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jennifer Byrne<mailto:tigg@twcny.rr.com>=20
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 5:48 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


  Thanks for the site, Saragrace.  Have you ordered from them and what =
do you
  think of their linen?  I am always looking for good sources.  Also, =
what
  sample cards did you order to get a range of what they offer?  Do you =
mean
  all of the Home Collection, New Card and Artist Canvas collections?

  I'm easily confused!

  (Have a grand time in Belgium! - we were there and in the Netherlands =
last
  fall and the art museums are fabulous.)

  Jenn

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com> =
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
  Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
  Sent: July 21, 2007 12:10 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen

  You may be thinking of The Linen House.
  =
http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.com/<http://thelinenhouse.=
com/%3Chttp://thelinenhouse.com/>>  I have their complete
  sample collection.
  Their Napoli, Voile De Lin, Lille, Roma & Veneszia would all work for =
under
  clothing.

  I'd say the Napoli is the softest and finest, but I bet if you wrote =
and
  asked them they would help.

  I'll be there in September!  Weeee! I wonder if they'd mind if I =
wrapped
  myself up in a few yards just to get a rush!=20

  Sg


    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net<mailto:otsisto@socket.net>>=20
    To: Historical =
Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>>=20
    Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 2:15 AM
    Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen


    Hmmm..I remember that at the end of the past discuss someone =
produced a
    website so perhaps this woman is not the one I was thinking of. =
Please
  hold
    off on the email address. I guess what I am going to have to do is =
do a
    major search through the archives and see if I can find the =
retailer. If
    that fails then I will be asking for the woman's email address.
    Thank you, greatly appreciated,
    De

    -----Original Message-----
    She is not online, but i have her email address. Ill find it for you
    tomorrow. She is located in Denmark. She had a wonderfull embroidery =
shop
  in
    Copenhagen, but it closed down, she told me she still can get the =
linnen
  for
    me, i baught from her before christmass.

    Bjarne
    ----- Original Message -----
    >I believe your suppier is who I am thinking of. May I have their =
name and
    > are they on line?
    >
    > De
    >


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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:48:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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> In a message dated 7/22/2007 9:22:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:
>
> I doubt  Simplicity would have bothered with a good one for a photo shoot
> ***************

AlbertCat wrote,
> I dunno. I think the stylist for the shoot has a goal of making it look 
like
> something one can get together at home....in the mid-west or the south or
> maybe rural NY state. So they deliberately use fabrics and accessories
> that  can be had by just about anyone anywhere...whose also on a  budget.


     The thing is, there are other hairstyles than the very tall wig and
the saucy-pirate-lass-flowing hair.  Reenactors often will put up
thier hair and add some feathers for a formal event.

     Do they want to sell the patterns to reenactors as well, or just for
the Halloween crowd?

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
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In a message dated 7/23/2007 11:42:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

Do they  want to sell the patterns to reenactors as well, or just for
the Halloween  crowd?



**************
 
Ahhhh...there lies the rub. I think in this specific instance it the "I  
wanna look like the film Marie Antoinette" crowd. Maybe they figure reenactors  
can see past the Halloween look.



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:42:01 -0700
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Status: RO

The sleeve patterns are usually so large, at least part of the upper =
half is off grain.  This probably depends more on your fabric.  Got =
enough to try it a couple of different ways?

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Deredere Galbraith<mailto:Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 11:32 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question


  Hi,

  I am going to make an anime costume witch has leg o'mutton sleeves.
  I never made these before.
  =
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Crossplay/AllanSchezar.jpg<http://www.deredere=
dds.nl/Crossplay/AllanSchezar.jpg>

  I have pattern 3716 from Butterick.
  I have light weight cotton and slightly heavier.
  Normally shirts are from lightweight cotton but I wonder if that would =

  work well with these sleeves.

  Should I cut the sleeves on the strait or on the cross grain?

  Greetings,
         Deredere
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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:05:35 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question
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Status: RO

The lower sleeve, which is fairly fitted on your arm, is affected
greatly by being on the straight or cross grain.  A tighter fit and
better freedom of movement is possible with a bias lower sleeve.  A
looser fit works with straight grain.

I really need to go starch my leg-o-mutton sleeves for Newport.  Only
2 weeks away and so many outfits to get in order.

Katy

On 7/23/07, Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am going to make an anime costume witch has leg o'mutton sleeves.
> I never made these before.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Crossplay/AllanSchezar.jpg
>
> I have pattern 3716 from Butterick.
> I have light weight cotton and slightly heavier.
> Normally shirts are from lightweight cotton but I wonder if that would
> work well with these sleeves.
>
> Should I cut the sleeves on the strait or on the cross grain?
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> I am going to make an anime costume witch has leg o'mutton sleeves.
...
> Normally shirts are from lightweight cotton but I wonder if that would 
> work well with these sleeves.

Ah, the joys of recreating costumes drawn by people who don't understand 
  fabric... :)

If the light cotton is not stiff enough you can line the top half of the 
sleeve with heavy net to help it hold its shape. Also, sometimes they 
put a stiff ruffle inside the top of the arm to help hold the fabric out.

> 
> Should I cut the sleeves on the strait or on the cross grain?

What does your pattern say to do?

When I made my dress a few years ago I cut it on the straight grain.



Dawn

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:07:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'd certainly try cross grain, it always makes quite a nice shape when the head of the sleeve (don't know the word...) is high.
   
  Zuzana

       
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 16:36:50 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Well, they might consider reinactors--for like the Civil War gowns and
underpinnings by Martha McCain and the newer Patterns from History that
are far more authentic, but I think they consider the main potential
buyers as Halloween and high school, college, and the  local community
playhouse. Reinactors would get at least patterns that are more easily
alterable than starting from scratch. I'm willing to bet that most of
those designers for the historical costumes start out with far more
authentic patterns and then have to modify them for a mass audience to a
greater or lesser degree.

Last I heard of Martha McCain, on this list, I think, was a year or so
ago. If I remember right, she was working on 18th century costumes. It
would be great to get mass-market patterns that finally get the 18th
century bodice and sleeves right!

I remember doing an Eleanor of Toledo dress by buying 2 or 3 RenFaire
type costumes years ago from McCall's and Simplicity at 99 cents
each(not having the skill or the equipment to enlarge the Arnold pattern
on my apartment wall in order to trace it out.) I altered the bodice
patterns to fit me first and then redrew the patterns to match Arnold.
Still pretty time-consuming, but without a dressmaker's dummy in the
size of yours truly, it was the cheapest way to go.=20

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 12:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns

=20
In a message dated 7/23/2007 11:42:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

Do they  want to sell the patterns to reenactors as well, or just for
the Halloween  crowd?



**************
=20
Ahhhh...there lies the rub. I think in this specific instance it the "I
wanna look like the film Marie Antoinette" crowd. Maybe they figure
reenactors can see past the Halloween look.



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AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: Beverly Azizi <bazizi@uci.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric & Mildew
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Status: RO



Below are some additional tips fro removing the mildew from your fine 
fabrics.  The heavier silk by the way, if died an appropriate color 
would probably be fabulous for medieval and Renaissance garments.  I 
am thinking Italian Renaissance especially.

Beverly

Removing mildew

Clothing and household fabrics
Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Do not give the 
mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any 
surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in 
the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots 
remain, treat washable articles as described below. Dry clean 
nonwashable articles.

Wash mildew-stained articles at once with soap or detergent and 
water. Rinse well and dry in the sun. If any stain remains, use lemon 
juice and salt or another bleach. If you use a bleach, be sure to 
test colored fabrics for colorfastness.
    * Lemon juice and salt
    * Moisten stain with a mixture of lemon juice and salt. Spread in 
the sun to bleach. Rinse thoroughly.
    * Peroxygen bleach
    * Mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of sodium perborate or a powdered bleach 
containing sodium perborate or potassium monopersulfate with 1 pint 
(0.47 liters) of water. Use hot water if it is safe for the fabric; 
otherwise, use lukewarm water. Sponge the stain or soak the stained 
area in the solution, or sprinkle the dry powder directly on the 
dampened stain. Let solution or powder remain on the stain 30 minutes 
or longer, then rinse thoroughly. If mildew stains have been on the 
fabric for some time, it may be necessary to soak the fabric in the 
bleach solution overnight. Applying sodium perborate solution at or 
near the boiling point may remove stubborn stains. Be sure this 
treatment is safe for the fabric.
    * Chlorine bleach
    * Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach with 1 quart (0.95 
liters) of warm water. Sponge the stain or soak the stained area in 
the solution. Allow the bleach to remain on the fabric from 5 to 15 
minutes, then rinse. An additional soaking in weak vinegar (2 
tablespoons to a cup of water) will stop further bleach action. Never 
use a chlorine bleach on silk, wool or Spandex fabrics. Some fabrics 
with wash-and-wear or other special finishes may be damaged by 
chlorine bleaches. Articles with such finishes usually have a warning 
on the label or on a hang tag attached to the garment when it is sold.

Upholstered articles, mattresses and rugs
First, remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered 
articles, mattresses, rugs and carpets by brushing with a broom. Do 
this outdoors to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house.

Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to 
draw out more of the mold. Remember that the mold spores are being 
drawn into the bag of the vacuum cleaner. If the appliance has a 
disposable bag, remove and dispose of it immediately. If not, empty 
the bag carefully (preferably outdoors) to avoid scattering mold 
spores in the house.

Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article -- use an 
electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the 
article to stop the mold growth.

If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge 
lightly with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean, 
damp cloth. In doing this, get as little water on the fabric as 
possible so the filling does not get wet.

Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it 
with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or 
rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry the article thoroughly.

Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo. 
Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened with clear 
water. Dry in the sun if possible.

Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of mildew. 
Respray frequently, especially in localities where mildew is a major problem.

Vapors of paradichlorobenzene or paraformaldehyde, used in enclosed 
areas, will stop mold growth. See the section "Store with a mildew inhibitor."

If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a 
reliable disinfecting and fumigating service. Such services are often 
listed under "Exterminating and Fumigating" or "Pest Control" 
services in the yellow pages of the telephone directory.

Leather goods
To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth moistened with 
diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). 
Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with thick suds made 
from a mild soap or detergent, saddle soap, or a soap containing a 
germicide or fungicide. Then wipe with a damp cloth and dry in an 
airy place. Polish leather shoes and luggage with a good wax dressing.

Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop 
unpleasant odors, and colored mildew shows up on the inner sole and 
linings and up into the toe. You can remove this kind of mildew with 
low-pressure sprays especially intended for freshening shoes; these 
sprays are available at shoe and department stores. Use these 
products as directed.

Another way to stop mold growth in leather goods is to place the 
leather goods in a container along with crystals of commercially 
prepared paradichlorobenzene-paraformaldehyde. Close the container 
tightly and allow the chemicals to vaporize. See the section "Store 
with a mildew inhibitor."

The vapors from these chemicals are effective in killing molds that 
have grown into leather, but they give no lasting protection against 
future contamination. As the vapors leak out, the chemicals must be 
replaced. Before using the shoes or luggage, air them thoroughly.

Wood
Use heat and increase the air circulation to get mildewed wood as dry 
as possible. Badly infected wood may need to be replaced, preferably 
with wood that has been treated or that is naturally decay-resistant.

Thoroughly clean mildewed surfaces, woodwork and other wooden parts 
by scrubbing them with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or 
trisodium phosphate (8 to 10 tablespoons to a gallon (3.8 liters) of 
water), or with disinfectants, such as a quaternary disinfectant or 
pentachlorophenate. Paint and grocery stores and janitors' supply 
houses sell these products under various trade names. Rinse the wood 
well with clear water and allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Then 
apply a mildew-resistant paint. (See the section "Give special care 
to some articles and surfaces" for precautions.)

If the mold has grown under the paint or varnish, remove all the 
paint or varnish from the stained areas. Then scrub with a solution 
containing 8 to 10 tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of 
household chlorine bleach to a gallon (3.8 liters) of water. Stronger 
solutions can be used if necessary. Wear rubber gloves.

If stain remains, apply oxalic acid (3 tablespoons to 1 pint (0.47 
liters) of water). Caution: The acid is poisonous -- handle 
carefully. Finally, rinse the surface thoroughly with clear water. 
Dry well before refinishing.

Paper and books
Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft cloth. If 
mildewed paper is damp, dry it first in an airy place. To dry 
wallpaper, heat the room for several hours or even days to dry the 
plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to 
prevent cracking.

If mildewed paper is washable, wipe it gently with a cloth wrung out 
of thick soapsuds, then with clear water. Take care not to wet the 
paper more than necessary. Do not scrub it. Finally pat with a soft, 
dry cloth. If stains remain, bleach with a solution of a household 
bleach, then sponge with a cloth wrung out of clear water. For small 
stains, a commercial ink eradicator may be useful.

"Fan out" pages of books to increase air circulation. If the books 
are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the 
leaves to absorb the moisture. Leave starch or powder on for several 
hours, then brush off. See the section "Give special care to some 
articles and surfaces."
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fabric & Mildew
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:08:31 -0400
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Status: RO

Wow, Beverly, this is a lot of really great tips! Definitely worth
printing out and filing for future reference. 

I'd never thought about Italian Renn... but yes, this is sturdy enough
to make a very good supportive bodice. Right now I'm having fun with
just imagining its possibilities. 

Thanks to everyone for all the help~!

Linda



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Beverly Azizi

Below are some additional tips fro removing the mildew from your fine 
fabrics.  The heavier silk by the way, if died an appropriate color 
would probably be fabulous for medieval and Renaissance garments.  I 
am thinking Italian Renaissance especially. -Beverly


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Status: RO

Yes:  Bev copied some very helpful information verbatim from the 
University of Missouri Extension website.  Here is the link she should 
have provided instead:

http://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/hesguide/housing/gh5928.htm

Fran



Linda Rice wrote:

> Wow, Beverly, this is a lot of really great tips! Definitely worth
> printing out and filing for future reference. 

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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric & Mildew
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Status: RO

Either way... I think she has saved me from tossing an expensive pair of boots.

Mari
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Status: RO

It's just that it's a copyright violation and (though perhaps 
unintentionally) claiming credit for someone else's work.

Fran

Marie Stewart wrote:

> Either way... I think she has saved me from tossing an expensive pair of 
> boots.
> 
> Mari
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric & Mildew & stains on old fabric
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:29:04 -0400
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Status: RO

Because I spend considerable time around old books, the description  
of the stains noted by the original poster (sorry, I seem to have  
deleted that message) reminded me immediately of foxing on paper, and  
I wonder if information on foxing might be pertinent to this discussion.
I just Googled "foxing" and "paper" and then "foxing" and "cloth."  
Many entries, including (inevitably) descriptions of rare books for  
sale. Among them, though, some interesting information, including the  
fact that foxing does occur in cloth as well as in paper (as well as  
the fact that there's still some debate about what causes foxing-- 
mold, or breakdown of minute particles of metal present in the fabric).
I don't consider Wikipedia definitive, but the entry is short and it  
does suggest some treatments, including spot applications of diluted  
hydrogen peroxide, so here's that url: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ 
Foxing. Much more extensive information and some discussions are  
maintained by palimsest.stanford.edu--if you want to read further,  
you might start with this posting:
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/exlibris/2003/06/ 
msg00157.html

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jul 23, 2007, at 5:51 PM, Beverly Azizi wrote:

>
>
> Below are some additional tips fro removing the mildew from your  
> fine fabrics.  The heavier silk by the way, if died an appropriate  
> color would probably be fabulous for medieval and Renaissance  
> garments.  I am thinking Italian Renaissance especially.
>
> Beverly
>
> Removing mildew
>
> Clothing and household fabrics
> Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Do not give the  
> mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any  
> surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in  
> the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots  
> remain, treat washable articles as described below. Dry clean  
> nonwashable articles.
>
> Wash mildew-stained articles at once with soap or detergent and  
> water. Rinse well and dry in the sun. If any stain remains, use  
> lemon juice and salt or another bleach. If you use a bleach, be  
> sure to test colored fabrics for colorfastness.
>    * Lemon juice and salt
>    * Moisten stain with a mixture of lemon juice and salt. Spread  
> in the sun to bleach. Rinse thoroughly.
>    * Peroxygen bleach
>    * Mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of sodium perborate or a powdered  
> bleach containing sodium perborate or potassium monopersulfate with  
> 1 pint (0.47 liters) of water. Use hot water if it is safe for the  
> fabric; otherwise, use lukewarm water. Sponge the stain or soak the  
> stained area in the solution, or sprinkle the dry powder directly  
> on the dampened stain. Let solution or powder remain on the stain  
> 30 minutes or longer, then rinse thoroughly. If mildew stains have  
> been on the fabric for some time, it may be necessary to soak the  
> fabric in the bleach solution overnight. Applying sodium perborate  
> solution at or near the boiling point may remove stubborn stains.  
> Be sure this treatment is safe for the fabric.
>    * Chlorine bleach
>    * Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach with 1 quart (0.95  
> liters) of warm water. Sponge the stain or soak the stained area in  
> the solution. Allow the bleach to remain on the fabric from 5 to 15  
> minutes, then rinse. An additional soaking in weak vinegar (2  
> tablespoons to a cup of water) will stop further bleach action.  
> Never use a chlorine bleach on silk, wool or Spandex fabrics. Some  
> fabrics with wash-and-wear or other special finishes may be damaged  
> by chlorine bleaches. Articles with such finishes usually have a  
> warning on the label or on a hang tag attached to the garment when  
> it is sold.
>
> Upholstered articles, mattresses and rugs
> First, remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered  
> articles, mattresses, rugs and carpets by brushing with a broom. Do  
> this outdoors to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house.
>
> Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to  
> draw out more of the mold. Remember that the mold spores are being  
> drawn into the bag of the vacuum cleaner. If the appliance has a  
> disposable bag, remove and dispose of it immediately. If not, empty  
> the bag carefully (preferably outdoors) to avoid scattering mold  
> spores in the house.
>
> Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article -- use an  
> electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the  
> article to stop the mold growth.
>
> If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge  
> lightly with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean,  
> damp cloth. In doing this, get as little water on the fabric as  
> possible so the filling does not get wet.
>
> Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it  
> with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or  
> rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry the article thoroughly.
>
> Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo.  
> Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened with clear  
> water. Dry in the sun if possible.
>
> Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of  
> mildew. Respray frequently, especially in localities where mildew  
> is a major problem.
>
> Vapors of paradichlorobenzene or paraformaldehyde, used in enclosed  
> areas, will stop mold growth. See the section "Store with a mildew  
> inhibitor."
>
> If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a  
> reliable disinfecting and fumigating service. Such services are  
> often listed under "Exterminating and Fumigating" or "Pest Control"  
> services in the yellow pages of the telephone directory.
>
> Leather goods
> To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth moistened  
> with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup  
> water). Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with thick  
> suds made from a mild soap or detergent, saddle soap, or a soap  
> containing a germicide or fungicide. Then wipe with a damp cloth  
> and dry in an airy place. Polish leather shoes and luggage with a  
> good wax dressing.
>
> Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop  
> unpleasant odors, and colored mildew shows up on the inner sole and  
> linings and up into the toe. You can remove this kind of mildew  
> with low-pressure sprays especially intended for freshening shoes;  
> these sprays are available at shoe and department stores. Use these  
> products as directed.
>
> Another way to stop mold growth in leather goods is to place the  
> leather goods in a container along with crystals of commercially  
> prepared paradichlorobenzene-paraformaldehyde. Close the container  
> tightly and allow the chemicals to vaporize. See the section "Store  
> with a mildew inhibitor."
>
> The vapors from these chemicals are effective in killing molds that  
> have grown into leather, but they give no lasting protection  
> against future contamination. As the vapors leak out, the chemicals  
> must be replaced. Before using the shoes or luggage, air them  
> thoroughly.
>
> Wood
> Use heat and increase the air circulation to get mildewed wood as  
> dry as possible. Badly infected wood may need to be replaced,  
> preferably with wood that has been treated or that is naturally  
> decay-resistant.
>
> Thoroughly clean mildewed surfaces, woodwork and other wooden parts  
> by scrubbing them with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or  
> trisodium phosphate (8 to 10 tablespoons to a gallon (3.8 liters)  
> of water), or with disinfectants, such as a quaternary disinfectant  
> or pentachlorophenate. Paint and grocery stores and janitors'  
> supply houses sell these products under various trade names. Rinse  
> the wood well with clear water and allow the wood to dry  
> thoroughly. Then apply a mildew-resistant paint. (See the section  
> "Give special care to some articles and surfaces" for precautions.)
>
> If the mold has grown under the paint or varnish, remove all the  
> paint or varnish from the stained areas. Then scrub with a solution  
> containing 8 to 10 tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of  
> household chlorine bleach to a gallon (3.8 liters) of water.  
> Stronger solutions can be used if necessary. Wear rubber gloves.
>
> If stain remains, apply oxalic acid (3 tablespoons to 1 pint (0.47  
> liters) of water). Caution: The acid is poisonous -- handle  
> carefully. Finally, rinse the surface thoroughly with clear water.  
> Dry well before refinishing.
>
> Paper and books
> Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft cloth. If  
> mildewed paper is damp, dry it first in an airy place. To dry  
> wallpaper, heat the room for several hours or even days to dry the  
> plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to  
> prevent cracking.
>
> If mildewed paper is washable, wipe it gently with a cloth wrung  
> out of thick soapsuds, then with clear water. Take care not to wet  
> the paper more than necessary. Do not scrub it. Finally pat with a  
> soft, dry cloth. If stains remain, bleach with a solution of a  
> household bleach, then sponge with a cloth wrung out of clear  
> water. For small stains, a commercial ink eradicator may be useful.
>
> "Fan out" pages of books to increase air circulation. If the books  
> are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the  
> leaves to absorb the moisture. Leave starch or powder on for  
> several hours, then brush off. See the section "Give special care  
> to some articles and surfaces."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <00ab01c7cbdb$484ed230$6401a8c0@VMAA1>
	<46A286BE.3020604@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 07:43:15 -0500
Organization: Software Innovation
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Status: RO

Well, there is the traditional wash in cold water and hang in the sun
treatment for the linen- in this case solar UV might be your friend!
HTH Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 5:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics

This fabric has a
> "haven't seen the light of day since Kennedy was in office" smell, but
> not a musty or mildew smell. Now, I'm much less sure than I was this
> morning!
> 

The light-reddish-brown mold doesn't smell.

Fran
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 24 08:21:08 2007
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:19:40 -0400
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Status: RO

Denise, this sounds absolutely lovely, a watercolor painting effect. 

Why yes, I DO need to buy more craft supplies. :D Dharma Trading, here I
come! 

Thanks for the inspiration,

Linda


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Land of Oz

If you get to the point where you want to try the artistic route -- I'd
use 
a selection of similar colors and try for an effect similar to "sponge 
painting" on walls.

Silk is so easy to dye -- you can sponge or squirt or drip acid dye in 
random patterns, wrap in plastic and steam (over water or nuke it); then

rinse and repeat as often as you like. Buy some cheap silk scarves to 
practice with if you have something specific in mind (and keep notes!).

I'm thinking of something like a very subtle camouflage (very subtle!) 
Several shades of greens and browns swirled together and overlapping
until 
there is no real "pattern" just one color blending into the next.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 24 11:25:10 2007
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From: "Sue" <sue@victorianmillinery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leg o'mutton sleeve question
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:23:19 -0400
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Hi!
You've probably never heard of me since I don't post, but I thought I could 
help. I have a striped wool waist that is very structured.  In the top of 
the sleeve is starched netting drawn up  and  a piece of the fabric lining 
between the netting and sleeve material.  The interesting thing is that it 
has a strip of cloth from the top shoulder to the bottom of leg o'mutton 
sleeve.  It is drawn up tightly so the sleeve will never hang down flat.
By the way, can anyone tell me how to unsubscribe? I am caring for my mother 
now and can't keep up with the mail.
Thanks,
Sue
On 7/23/2007 12:22:20 PM, Dawn (dawn@reddawn.net) wrote:
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am going to make an anime costume witch has leg
> o'mutton sleeves.
> ...
> > Normally shirts are from lightweight cotton but I wonder if that would
> > work well with these sleeves.
>
> Ah, the joys of recreating costumes drawn by people who don't
> understand
> fabric... :)
>
> If the light cotton is not stiff enough you can line the top half of the
> sleeve with heavy net to help it hold its shape. Also, sometimes they
> put a stiff ruffle inside the top of the arm to help hold the fabric out.
>
> >
> > Should I cut the sleeves on the strait or on the cross grain?
>
> What does your pattern say to do?
>
> When I made my dress a few years ago I cut it on the straight grain.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Duly noted.  I sent the information in a rush and did not intend at 
all to take credit for composing it.  Meant to be a good 
deed.  However, sending the link is a lot easier and I wonder why I 
didn't think of it at the time.  Thanks for the gentle admonition.

Beverly

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Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 12:54:07 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] sleeve verthingales (farthingales)
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Status: RO

Gentle H-costumers,
I tried asking this question yesterday on the Tudor Tailor mailing
list with no success.  Perhaps if I cast my net a little wider, I'll
get an answer...  I'd settle for some speculation, idle conjecture or
armchair experimentation.
I there anyone out there in Tudor-land that has made the 1580-90s
"sleeve verthingales" and wants to share success stories or failed
experiments?

I'm interested in creating the sleeves-bigger-than-torso look of the
Mary Fitton, Elizabeth Buxton, Eleanor Herbert, Eliz Finch, Alice
Knollys, Mary Rogers, Elizabeth I by John Bettes, Elizabeth I Jesus
College at Oxford, Elizabeth I "Ermine" and Elizabeth I Grenwich
portraits. Another good source portrait is Unknown Lady by Wm Segar.
Back views of these sleeves also seen in "Ball at the court of Henri
III".
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sleeve verthingales (farthingales)
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Status: RO

Are you talking about the hanging sleeve or the "Leg O' Mutton" type =
sleeve.  I made the latter sleeves for "A Suitable Gown for Her Majesty" =
and was completely successful stuffing them with (unprinted) newspaper =
and some fine netting!.  There was a smaller inner sleeve which had an =
opening at the seam.  We just replaced the paper if it got too smooshed. =
=20

I aslo used a strip of rigelene =
http://www.greenberghammer.com/images/Boning/rigelene.jpg<http://www.gree=
nberghammer.com/images/Boning/rigelene.jpg> for the hanging sleeve.  I =
made casing inside the top of the sleeve, slid the rigelene in, and used =
a pin to hold it in place.  (makes storage easier w/o it)

I have also made actual sleeve farthingales for a mahoitered sleeve =
using rigelene.  This is closer to a true sleeve farthingale, but even =
in this case the rigelene was incorporated into a two part sleeve cap.

If you'd like pictures of either, I can drum them up probably.  I lost =
all the links for my diary on the first dress and haven't bothered (bad =
me) to fix them yet.

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Cin<mailto:cinbarnes@gmail.com>=20
  To: h-cost<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 12:54 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] sleeve verthingales (farthingales)


  Gentle H-costumers,
  I tried asking this question yesterday on the Tudor Tailor mailing
  list with no success.  Perhaps if I cast my net a little wider, I'll
  get an answer...  I'd settle for some speculation, idle conjecture or
  armchair experimentation.
  I there anyone out there in Tudor-land that has made the 1580-90s
  "sleeve verthingales" and wants to share success stories or failed
  experiments?

  I'm interested in creating the sleeves-bigger-than-torso look of the
  Mary Fitton, Elizabeth Buxton, Eleanor Herbert, Eliz Finch, Alice
  Knollys, Mary Rogers, Elizabeth I by John Bettes, Elizabeth I Jesus
  College at Oxford, Elizabeth I "Ermine" and Elizabeth I Grenwich
  portraits. Another good source portrait is Unknown Lady by Wm Segar.
  Back views of these sleeves also seen in "Ball at the court of Henri
  III".
  --cin
  Cynthia Barnes
  CinBarnes@gmail.com<mailto:CinBarnes@gmail.com>
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_562.htm

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Status: RO

Thanks Otsisto,

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1700s man's embroidered vest


> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_562.htm
> 
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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
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Status: RO

Is there a market for long exotic feathers for things like decorating =
hats or _______ ?

My family is raising lots of exotic pheasants, peafowl, and other birds =
and my house is starting to get flooded with 4 foot long peacock =
feathers and 3 foot long zebra striped ones, shorter ones with red tips, =
etc.

Thanks
Denise B
Iowa

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Status: RO

Sure!

Fran

Land of Oz wrote:

> Is there a market for long exotic feathers for things like decorating hats or _______ ?
> 
> My family is raising lots of exotic pheasants, peafowl, and other birds and my house is starting to get flooded with 4 foot long peacock feathers and 3 foot long zebra striped ones, shorter ones with red tips, etc.
> 
> Thanks
> Denise B
> Iowa
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:29:54 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hat makers (or other people who use feathers)
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Status: RO

There's always a market for these feathers. FIrst check to see if the
opera, theater in your area might want them for costuming. They would
want a bunch but not necessarily hundreds at once. I don't know how
long you've been collecting them. Check here, of course. I know there
are millinary lists, but I don't know where they are.

A good thing to do when you BUY feathers is to put them into a
zip-lock bag (if they fit) and store them in the freezer for a week or
two to kill any bugs and their eggs that might have hitched a ride
before you add them to your stash. That will help keep your feathers
bug-free.

LynnD


On 7/25/07, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:
> Is there a market for long exotic feathers for things like decorating hats or _______ ?
>
> My family is raising lots of exotic pheasants, peafowl, and other birds and my house is starting to get flooded with 4 foot long peacock feathers and 3 foot long zebra striped ones, shorter ones with red tips, etc.
>
> Thanks
> Denise B
> Iowa
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO

Hi,

I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture: 

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg 

The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a number of seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large bust and a small waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. It's made from a lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well visible:-( So I thought about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a corset-top dress is really not my goal), so I'll attach it to the lining. 

My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out? Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is supposed to tell something about boning, but alas, I think it will come too late as I'm from Europe. 

The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the back it is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but I'm not sure about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning taht goes not higher than the bust, but I've never actually tried that and I'm not sure whether the ends will be visible or not. And, as I said, my friend has a large bust, which might affect this. It doesn't need support, as she'll be going to have a bra. 

Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise. Many thanks,

Zuzana

P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I just thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or just LOTR inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.

       
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	<8296995c0707251129i6a68a84cg8af4a743b3989048@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hat makers (or other people who use feathers)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:45:55 -0500
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Status: RO

> There's always a market for these feathers. FIrst check to see if the
> opera, theater in your area might want them for costuming. They would
> want a bunch but not necessarily hundreds at once. I don't know how
> long you've been collecting them. Check here, of course. I know there
> are millinary lists, but I don't know where they are.


Thanks!  I'll check out ebay to see what kinds of things are offered and 
what kinds of prices are to be had. We've had peafowl the longest, so we 
have several years' worth of those, and they get longer and more profuse 
every year.  The Lady Amherst and Golden and __?___ pheasants are starting 
to produce some extraordinary feathers, but never very many at a time. Even 
the turkeys (Bourbon Red) have interesting feathers, although they don't 
have the "splash" and drape of the pheasants.

If anyone here wants to write me privately to see about purchasing, feel 
free!  I don't think this is the place for flat-out selling, but if you know 
of a list where it's welcomed, send info on that too, please.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] hat makers (or other people who use feathers)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 12:19:24 -0700
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Status: RO

Yes. With your permission, I would like to forward this email to a few
people who might be interested. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] hat makers (or other people who use feathers)

Is there a market for long exotic feathers for things like decorating hats
or _______ ?

My family is raising lots of exotic pheasants, peafowl, and other birds and
my house is starting to get flooded with 4 foot long peacock feathers and 3
foot long zebra striped ones, shorter ones with red tips, etc.

Thanks
Denise B
Iowa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] boning question
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:41:10 -0700
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Status: RO

Are there two separate gowns here or is the under one "faked"?  If they =
are separate, you probably won't have to worry much about the boning =
showing on the outer gown.

Are you sure you actually need boning in the dress itself?  Have you =
considered an actual corset or under bodice, (like a corset without =
boning)? The latter will give your friend a more rounded/mounded breast =
shape.  Both would take the stress off the gown.

Either way, you could incase the boning in channels made in a firm =
fabric like coutil then flat line that with lining and sew it to the =
outer material like you would any other lining. You'd probably see the =
ribs the least that way. =20

Sg



  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Zuzana Kraemerova<mailto:zkraemerova@yahoo.com>=20
  To: h-costume<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>=20
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:42 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] boning question


  Hi,

  I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few =
adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture:=20

  =
http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg<http://www.in=
telligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg>=20

  The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a =
number of seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large =
bust and a small waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. =
It's made from a lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well =
visible:-( So I thought about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a =
corset-top dress is really not my goal), so I'll attach it to the =
lining.=20

  My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that =
purpose? A regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the =
bones tear out? Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would =
be so thin? I'm going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the =
best way is to attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of =
attaching a flannel fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any =
experiences in that?  I've ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at =
amazon.com, this book is supposed to tell something about boning, but =
alas, I think it will come too late as I'm from Europe.=20

  The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the =
back it is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but =
I'm not sure about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning =
taht goes not higher than the bust, but I've never actually tried that =
and I'm not sure whether the ends will be visible or not. And, as I =
said, my friend has a large bust, which might affect this. It doesn't =
need support, as she'll be going to have a bra.=20

  Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise. =
Many thanks,

  Zuzana

  P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I =
just thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or =
just LOTR inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.

        =20
  ---------------------------------
  Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new =
Car Finder tool.
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out? Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is supposed to tell something about boning, but alas, I think it will come too late as I'm from Europe. 
> 

I think spiral steel is probably overkill. If you only need the boning 
to smooth out wrinkles, then use light poly/plastic boning. Personally, 
I'd use a cotton muslin for the bodice lining, and bias tape channels 
for the boning on the inside.

> The second question is, how long should the bones be?

As long as they need to be to make the bodice smooth where you want it 
to be smooth. That will probably be the length of the seam they are sewn 
against.



Dawn





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Your welcome. I was searching for ideas to embellish a pirate outfit and
came across it.
De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks Otsisto,

Bjarne




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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
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Today on the World Wide Web I stumbled across an English summary by Australian 
reenactor Peter Beatson of a recent report in Russian, about a Viking era 
archaeological find at Pskov in Russia. Apparently a grave at a dig there 
turned up two characteristic tortoise brooches, together with some folded 
textiles, in a birchbark box. (They definitely were not on a human body.)

The brooches had the remains of loops of "blue linen" around the pins inside 
them. The folded textiles were quite large. One was a panel, about a meter 
long and 26 cm wide, consisting of silk strips which the researchers deduced 
(on the basis of stitching marks that may have fastened loops) to be 
ornamentation from the top of an apron dress. The other piece appears to be a 
gathered neckline from a smock or underdress, in blue linen. A sketch of the 
possible appearance of these garments when new is provided, both with 
Beatson's summary and with the original Russian-language report by the 
Russian researchers.

Beatson's summary:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm

Russian report:
http://pskovarheolog.ru/68.html


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] boning question
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Status: RO

"Are there two separate gowns here or is the under one "faked"? If they are separate, you probably won't have to worry much about the boning showing on the outer gown."

There are two separate gowns, the undergown is made from a lace - actually embroidered tulle, so I don't bother about that, the lace hides everything. It's just the taffeta, we tried it on and the bodice wasn't smooth at all. Well, it wasn't pressed or anything yet, but it was clear to me it will need some "smoothing" process. The picture comes from www.rivendellbridal.com and all the gowns there are this fantasy style dresses, with long sleeves and skirts etc., actually no corset-style dresses. But all the bodices are nicely smooth and that's just because there's bones underneath, so I thought I might be needing something like that.

Zuzana

Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote: Are there two separate gowns here or is the under one "faked"?  If they are separate, you probably won't have to worry much about the boning showing on the outer gown.

Are you sure you actually need boning in the dress itself?  Have you considered an actual corset or under bodice, (like a corset without boning)? The latter will give your friend a more rounded/mounded breast shape.  Both would take the stress off the gown.

Either way, you could incase the boning in channels made in a firm fabric like coutil then flat line that with lining and sew it to the outer material like you would any other lining. You'd probably see the ribs the least that way.  

Sg



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Zuzana Kraemerova 
  To: h-costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:42 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] boning question


  Hi,

  I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture: 

  http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg 

  The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a number of seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large bust and a small waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. It's made from a lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well visible:-( So I thought about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a corset-top dress is really not my goal), so I'll attach it to the lining. 

  My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out? Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is supposed to tell something about boning, but alas, I think it will come too late as I'm from Europe. 

  The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the back it is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but I'm not sure about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning taht goes not higher than the bust, but I've never actually tried that and I'm not sure whether the ends will be visible or not. And, as I said, my friend has a large bust, which might affect this. It doesn't need support, as she'll be going to have a bra. 

  Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise. Many thanks,

  Zuzana

  P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I just thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or just LOTR inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.

         
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In a message dated 7/26/2007 4:46:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
zkraemerova@yahoo.com writes:

It's  just the taffeta, we tried it on and the bodice wasn't smooth at all. 
Well, it  wasn't pressed or anything yet, but it was clear to me it will need 
some  "smoothing" process. 


You have lots of seams you can run boning on that won't show. As someone  
else already mentioned, it need not be spiral, but some 1/4" spiral boning in a  
casing sewn to the seam allowance of the pattern pieces would definitely do  
the trick. Rigelene would also work but isn't 1/4"....not that the boning need  
be that narrow. 
Also you might want to flat line the overdress pieces at least to the hips  
[where the boning should stop]. Flat lining being mounting the fashion fabric 
to  another fabric before sewing anything together, then treating the 2 layers 
as  one. I include this definition because I recently told someone to flat 
line  something and they bag lined it instead...oops! You may even want to use a 
light  flannel for the flat lining...something a little spongy...felty...to 
smooth  things out. There would be no need to attach the flat lining across the 
fashion  fabric at the hip level where the lining stopped. Just pink it [a hem 
might be  bulky enough to show] and let it be free across the pattern piece. 
It  will stay in place because the seams of the narrow pattern pieces are  
close enough.



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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:23:35 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
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Status: RO

Thanks Cathy!

Beth

At 03:16 PM 7/26/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 00:47:47 -0400
>From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>Today on the World Wide Web I stumbled across an English summary by 
>Australian
>reenactor Peter Beatson of a recent report in Russian, about a Viking era
>archaeological find at Pskov in Russia. Apparently a grave at a dig there
>turned up two characteristic tortoise brooches, together with some folded
>textiles, in a birchbark box. (They definitely were not on a human body.)
>
>The brooches had the remains of loops of "blue linen" around the pins inside
>them. The folded textiles were quite large. One was a panel, about a meter
>long and 26 cm wide, consisting of silk strips which the researchers deduced
>(on the basis of stitching marks that may have fastened loops) to be
>ornamentation from the top of an apron dress. The other piece appears to be a
>gathered neckline from a smock or underdress, in blue linen. A sketch of the
>possible appearance of these garments when new is provided, both with
>Beatson's summary and with the original Russian-language report by the
>Russian researchers.
>
>Beatson's summary:
>http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm
>
>Russian report:
>http://pskovarheolog.ru/68.html
>
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: boning question
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Status: RO

What a lovely design!  Bereth means Queen in Sindarin; which Queen are you
costuming for?  :-)  I have a gown in progress that is a "design that might
have been worn by Thranduil's Queen in the Great Greenwood", and I just
adore all the movie costumes (and many of the examples of similar designs
I've seen!).

I think you'd only need the plastic stuff, well-padded, to smooth out the
lines--the metal might be too heavy for your fabric.

Cheers,
Meli
(also a LOTR costume fan...)

On 7/26/07, Zuzana wrote:
>
>
> I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few
> adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture:
>
> http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg
>
> The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a number
> of seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large bust and a
> small waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. It's made from
> a lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well visible:-( So I
> thought about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a corset-top dress is
> really not my goal), so I'll attach it to the lining.
>
> My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A
> regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out?
> Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm
> going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to
> attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel
> fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've
> ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is
> supposed to tell something about boning, but alas, I think it will come too
> late as I'm from Europe.
>
> The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the back
> it is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but I'm not
> sure about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning taht goes
> not higher than the bust, but I've never actually tried that and I'm not
> sure whether the ends will be visible or not. And, as I said, my friend has
> a large bust, which might affect this. It doesn't need support, as she'll be
> going to have a bra.
>
> Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise.
> Many thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
> P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I just
> thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or just LOTR
> inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.
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Status: RO

So, has anyone seen this yet? 
 
The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed, the women's gowns look  
like they are all the same dress in different  fabrics.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
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Status: RO

On Thursday 26 July 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> Thanks Cathy!

You're welcome!

I wouldn't mind starting a discussion about this find.  I stumbled across the 
article while I was and work (and, admittedly, while I should have been doing 
something else) and in my first hurried scan thought that they had actually 
found an intact, whole apron dress.  They haven't, but they found a much 
bigger piece than anyone else has found to date.  

On the other hand, the fragment they found poses some serious questions.  The 
holes the researchers believe to be stitching holes indicating where the 
front loops were are in locations that are 85 cm apart.  That's about 34 
inches!  If you've ever tried to make an apron dress, you'd know that it's 
difficult to make the dress stay put if you put the front loops much further 
apart than about 20 cm (the distance of the loop locations in one of the 
Birka finds, according to the summary).  That's about 8 inches, and that's 
roughly the distance I've used for mine.

The summary notes that the researchers posited wearing a narrow (i.e., 20 cm 
or so) apron over the apron dress.  The problem with that is that it would 
almost completely hide the silk--and why would you want to do that?

I'm wondering if the only surviving bit of the apron dress isn't the loops 
inside the brooches, and if the silk isn't part of a different garment 
altogether.  Alternatively, the "stitching holes" may have been 
misinterpreted, and the loops may have been sewn onto a linen area above the 
silk applique that didn't survive.

I'm thinking of attempting my own re-creation based on the summary and the 
pictures, just to see what I can learn thereby.  




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO

Hi, All. Is it possible that the outer garment was wrapped around in 
some way and that the loops line up based on that? I realize that the 
"front" part, the section that is higher up, needs to be centered to fit 
correctly (perhaps it isn't the front after all, but the back???). I am 
probably looking at it wrong or am misunderstanding the concept, but I 
would be curious (and glad of any interpretation) because I'd like to 
recreate one for my wife. It sounds like a comfortable garment. Cheers, 
Mike T.


>
>I wouldn't mind starting a discussion about this find. 
>  
>
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Status: RO

http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/8.jpg.html?hint=group
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/13.jpg.html?hint=group
not my area of interest but the costumes seem to be close to the era
depicted. You may be right about the same style, though the first picture
the woman on the left end is different.

-----Original Message-----
So, has anyone seen this yet?

The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed, the women's gowns look
like they are all the same dress in different  fabrics.



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
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Status: RO

On Thursday 26 July 2007, michael tartaglio wrote:
> Hi, All. Is it possible that the outer garment was wrapped around in
> some way and that the loops line up based on that? I realize that the
> "front" part, the section that is higher up, needs to be centered to fit
> correctly (perhaps it isn't the front after all, but the back???).

It's worth considering every possibility, since all we have is a one-meter by 
26 cm square of cloth, with two thin strips coming off two of the 
corners.  :-)

I think, though, that the problem with assuming that the biggest section is 
not the front is that it is composed entirely of silk; blue and purple silk 
at that.  Silk was not so common in the Viking world that you'd put it on any 
part of a garment that was unlikely to be seen, and purple silk was likely to 
have been rather expensively dyed.

By the way, I'm not really convinced by the theory that the back *was* lower 
than the front.  I've been experimenting with paper cut-out pieces, and it 
seems to me that you'd get a similar result with a tube that was the same 
height front and back if you took the big silk piece, edged it with a silk 
strip all around except for the top edge (like the find) and after you placed 
it on the garment, extended the edging along the top edge of the garment in 
the back.  When/if I make my sample garment, I'll take plenty of photos and 
post them so I can better explain what I mean.

> I am 
> probably looking at it wrong or am misunderstanding the concept, but I
> would be curious (and glad of any interpretation) because I'd like to
> recreate one for my wife.

The best thing I can tell you, Mike, is to read Beatson's summary and study 
the pictures and sketches.  Then you'll know as much as I know now.  :-)

If you read Russian, go to the Pskov researchers' own site and read *their* 
report.  (If you do that, note, as Beatson does, that they refer to the apron 
dress as a "sarafan" and the shift as a "rubakha" because those are familiar 
historic clothing terms for similar items to someone who's got a background 
in Russian clothing history.)  

> It sounds like a comfortable garment. 

I've made similar wraparound garments and yes, they tend to be very 
comfortable indeed.  Here are some photos.

This one is my interpretation of the Adwick-le-Street find in England:

http://www.slumberland.org/gallery/album07/Picture_020

This one is based on the Birka find that Agnes Geijer believed was two 
dresses, one over the other wrapped in opposite directions:

http://www.slumberland.org/gallery/album07/Picture_006

This one is the exact opposite of the Adwick dress; it has two sets of long 
loops and one set of short ones, instead of the other way around:

http://www.slumberland.org/gallery/album07/Picture_018

And this one is a tube with the top front taken in with pleats; it's based on 
a Danish find:

http://www.slumberland.org/gallery/album07/Eura_006

Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO

Not surprisingly, I don't speak Russian, but on the Russian site it looks to 
me like that second smaller sketch shows the front of the apron folded into 
that shape--sort of like a giant box pleat held in place by the 
brooches--rather than with a second narrower apron over it.  At least, it 
makes a lot more sense to me that way.

-E House 

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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 00:14:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: boning question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi!

Nice you're interested:-)) It's gonna be a wedding dress for a friend of mine - I'm also doing the man's outfit and cloaks for both of them, so all LOTR costume style:-)) 
Have you tried any dresses of that style? Do you have pictures? I really would be interested...:-))

You can have a look at the fabrics I'm using:

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/dress.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions! I always get more confident about doing something after asking the h-costume list...:-) I think I'll make a muslin lining and try both sorts of boning, lenghts, too, but I guess plastic will win, spiral steel, really is too heavy...:-)

Zuzana

Sharon Henderson <henderson.sharon@gmail.com> wrote: What a lovely design!  Bereth means Queen in Sindarin; which Queen are you
costuming for?  :-)  I have a gown in progress that is a "design that might
have been worn by Thranduil's Queen in the Great Greenwood", and I just
adore all the movie costumes (and many of the examples of similar designs
I've seen!).

I think you'd only need the plastic stuff, well-padded, to smooth out the
lines--the metal might be too heavy for your fabric.

Cheers,
Meli
(also a LOTR costume fan...)

On 7/26/07, Zuzana wrote:
>
>
> I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few
> adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture:
>
> http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg
>
> The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a number
> of seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large bust and a
> small waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. It's made from
> a lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well visible:-( So I
> thought about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a corset-top dress is
> really not my goal), so I'll attach it to the lining.
>
> My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A
> regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out?
> Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm
> going to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to
> attach them via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel
> fabric between the top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've
> ordered  "Bridal couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is
> supposed to tell something about boning, but alas, I think it will come too
> late as I'm from Europe.
>
> The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the back
> it is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but I'm not
> sure about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning taht goes
> not higher than the bust, but I've never actually tried that and I'm not
> sure whether the ends will be visible or not. And, as I said, my friend has
> a large bust, which might affect this. It doesn't need support, as she'll be
> going to have a bra.
>
> Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise.
> Many thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
> P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I just
> thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or just LOTR
> inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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You better buy the old DVD with Teatre du Solleils version of Mollieres 
life. Even it is so old now, the costumes are stunning 
beautifull...............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 3:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Moliere


> So, has anyone seen this yet?
>
> The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed, the women's gowns look
> like they are all the same dress in different  fabrics.
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL 
> at
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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And they need some more width in their skirts two. Very scarce fabric use in 
my oppinion. The lady in the front wears her off the shoulder much two deep 
two.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Moliere


> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/8.jpg.html?hint=group
> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/13.jpg.html?hint=group
> not my area of interest but the costumes seem to be close to the era
> depicted. You may be right about the same style, though the first picture
> the woman on the left end is different.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> So, has anyone seen this yet?
>
> The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed, the women's gowns look
> like they are all the same dress in different  fabrics.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 7/27/2007 9:07:46 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

You  better buy the old DVD with Teatre du Solleils version of Mollieres 
life.  Even it is so old now, the costumes are stunning  
beautifull...............



***************
 
I'd love to! If it can be had in region 1 format! :-P
 
Seriously, what is the film's title? What year? Who's in it?  A  search for 
Teatre du Solleils  gets me no  results.



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In a message dated 7/27/2007 9:45:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Seriously, what is the film's title? What year? Who's in it?   A  search for 
Teatre du Solleils  gets me no   results.



***********
 
Is it this one? From 1978?
 
_http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/_ (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/) 



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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Moliere
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Status: RO

The skirts sure seem to be a skimping on fabric.

MaggiRos


--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

>
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/8.jpg.html?hint=group
>
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/13.jpg.html?hint=group
> not my area of interest but the costumes seem to be
> close to the era
> depicted. You may be right about the same style,
> though the first picture
> the woman on the left end is different.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> So, has anyone seen this yet?
> 
> The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed,
> the women's gowns look
> like they are all the same dress in different 
> fabrics.
> 
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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Status: RO

Wouldnt the skits have more understructure?  I forget what they wore  
under them in this period but it seems they should be sticking out a  
bit more.

Sylrog

On Jul 27, 2007, at 11:04 AM, MaggiRos wrote:

> The skirts sure seem to be a skimping on fabric.
>
> MaggiRos
>
>
> --- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>
>>
> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/8.jpg.html?hint=group
>>
> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/13.jpg.html? 
> hint=group
>> not my area of interest but the costumes seem to be
>> close to the era
>> depicted. You may be right about the same style,
>> though the first picture
>> the woman on the left end is different.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> So, has anyone seen this yet?
>>
>> The trailer is not promising costume-wise. Indeed,
>> the women's gowns look
>> like they are all the same dress in different
>> fabrics.
>>
>>
>
> ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
>      Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 10:26:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I don't think so. It's 1665 or so, right? Lots of
petticotes, but the farthingale is out and the
panniere hasn't come in. A long corset, some kind of
bum roll, but no frame for the skirt. Think of Faye
Dunnaway getting undressed in the Richard Lester
"Three Musketeers". Yes, that's earlier but the idea
is similar.

Enough fabric in the skirts, and cutting the panels in
gores instead of squares, would make them drape
properly, which is probably what you're reacting to.

MaggiRos
~not my era but I spent a lot of time researching the
clothes for a novel.



--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> Wouldnt the skits have more understructure?  I
> forget what they wore  
> under them in this period but it seems they should
> be sticking out a  
> bit more.
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> On Jul 27, 2007, at 11:04 AM, MaggiRos wrote:
> 
> > The skirts sure seem to be a skimping on fabric.
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >
> >
> > --- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >
>
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/8.jpg.html?hint=group
> >>
> >
>
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0796335/Ss/0796335/13.jpg.html?
> 
> > hint=group
> >> not my area of interest but the costumes seem to
> be
> >> close to the era
> >> depicted. You may be right about the same style,
> >> though the first picture
> >> the woman on the left end is different.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> So, has anyone seen this yet?
> >>
> >> The trailer is not promising costume-wise.
> Indeed,
> >> the women's gowns look
> >> like they are all the same dress in different
> >> fabrics.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
> >      Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically
> Everything
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Wouldnt the skits have more understructure?  I forget what they wore 
> under them in this period but it seems they should be sticking out a 
> bit more.
There's an image at IMDB showing one woman in the foreground, with many 
women sitting in the background.  You can easily see their knees 
outlined by the skirts.

cv
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:24:13 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
Yes this is the title. Then you can have it after all........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere


>
> In a message dated 7/27/2007 9:45:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>
> Seriously, what is the film's title? What year? Who's in it?   A  search 
> for
> Teatre du Solleils  gets me no   results.
>
>
>
> ***********
>
> Is it this one? From 1978?
>
> _http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/_ 
> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/)
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL 
> at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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It would be a problem with the regions. I got mine from Amazon france. Only 
in french and no text, but i baught it for the eyecandy. And its a long 
film, more than 3 hours.
The time is brilliant, starting with the cavallier style when he was a 
child, and see how the styles changes trough the times, at the end the 
fontanges are in fashion...........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere


>
> In a message dated 7/27/2007 9:07:46 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> You  better buy the old DVD with Teatre du Solleils version of Mollieres
> life.  Even it is so old now, the costumes are stunning
> beautifull...............
>
>
>
> ***************
>
> I'd love to! If it can be had in region 1 format! :-P
>
> Seriously, what is the film's title? What year? Who's in it?  A  search 
> for
> Teatre du Solleils  gets me no  results.
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL 
> at
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 10:10:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
To: AlbertCat@aol.com, Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Amazon.com has two (from the used and new sellers) but
the user reviews tell us the Region 1 version has no
subtitles. Have to watch it just for the pictures, I
guess, unless your French is much better than mine.

No no, go ahead. I won't grab it. :-)

MaggiRos
--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 7/27/2007 9:45:16 A.M. Eastern
> Daylight Time,  
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> 
> Seriously, what is the film's title? What year?
> Who's in it?   A  search for 
> Teatre du Solleils  gets me no   results.
> 
> 
> 
> ***********
>  
> Is it this one? From 1978?
>  
> _http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/_
> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077941/) 
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:40:02 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: GBACGcostumers@yahoogroups.com, "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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Status: RO

(Sorry for the cross-post)  I'm out of my design league and could
really use some help from anyone who has worked in the 1880s era.

I'm making a gown for my 16-year old daughter for a ball in March.
After looking through all my books, she has chosen one from "Victorian
and Edwardian Fashions from 'La Mode Illustree' ", edited by J. Olian
(Dover). "Her" dress is the first one on page 60, an elegant ball gown
from 1880. Unfortunately, the legend only says that it's made of
satin, no more info. First, I'm a bit concerned about whether the
dress will flatter her or not. She's 5' nothing and curvy. She's in
proportion but weighs 125-130, so she's kinda built along the lines of
Jennifer Rabbit only not so tall. Should I try to guide her away from
this style and suggest more bustle, from maybe 1875 instead?

I first thought of making the bustle a bit wider but maybe the
thinness of this bustle dress is a good thing for my girl, to lengthen
and slenderize. Yes? No?

Her initial criteria: it has to be dark blue, it has to have a train,
it has to rustle, it has to be beautiful. No pressure, Mom.

Normally, I'll keep a picture of the design near me for several days
so I can dream on it and kind of work out the kinks before I purchase
anything, but time is tight. I'm going to Costume College and will
have a day for shopping in the fabric district before I have to come
home to the real world of work and family. While I'm in LA I can pick
up the fabric and maybe even the trim, but I haven't any idea of how
much material that dress will require. She may only wear this dress a
couple times, so I'm going to go with a changeable poly taffeta rather
than silk. I usually buy 10 yards minimum, but I haven't a clue how
much that skirt might require. I'm guessing 2 for the bodice, another
2 for the underskirt, but where do I go from there? Is 10 yards enough
or will I need more? Too much? Do you think there are two dark colors
in this dress or only one? I'll probably trim/contrast with black if
two colors. So there's not too much contrast. I'll use a heavy,
twice-worked lace to reproduce that embroidery on the edges. And the
yards and yards of lighter laces on the dress, both dark and light.
How can one gauge - from a picture - how much to buy?

I'm already working on Laughing Moon's corset pattern for her and I'll
get the bustle pattern from Truly Victorian while I'm at College. I've
made one of each of their two bustles and they work wonderfully, but
my size is too big for Terry. I'll probably go to TV for the bodice
and skirt patterns too because I don't feel comfortable draping yet,
but I'd sure like any suggestions or help you can give me. I've done
several Elizabethan outfits and several more 1840s-60s but never
anything so late =96 even though I have plans to make one for myself.

I swear I'm not asking for you to make the darned thing, but it's
overwhelming me right now with the many things I don't know about this
style.

Thanks for any help you can toss my way,

LynnD
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:44:27 -0700
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From: Beverly Azizi <bazizi@uci.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Article on Russian Viking-era find 
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Status: RO

I am excited to reproduce the apron skirt and tunic.  This is really 
exciting to me as one of my first loves is the Viking stuff.  (Mind 
you it is all play for me I am not a serious historian but I strive 
for some authenticity.  Anyway, with the info about the colors and 
the decoration, and the assumed style, I always like to try to do 
that in my feeble way.  And I do have some blue and red silk remnants 
that should be perfect. Thank you for submitting the article on the list.

Beverly

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Subject: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO

I am making a linen 4-panel, front/back/sides-gored variation on the Gothic
Fitted Dress.

Usually, when I do this, I cut eight gores (4 rectangles cut diagonally) and sew
them in, straight-to-straight and bias-to-bias.

This time, I cleverly thought "If I fold it in quarters first, and then cut,
I'll have three isosceles triangles and two right triangles.  Fewer seams!"  But
now that means I'm facing sewing straight-to-bias for at least three of the
gores, if not all four.  I know that one side effect will be the tendancy of the
fabric to pucker where the bias edge stretches and the straight edge does not.  

I seem to have two choices:

Do I: hang the gores from the point for a few days to allow the fabric to
stretch out before sewing them in place (which may or may not prevent puckering
after the fact)?

Do I: cut each triangle in half so I have my familliar eight gores (six of them
being a little narrower than expected because I didn't factor in seam allowance)?

I assume there will be a difference in drape between the two, I don't know
whether or not it will be enough of a difference to matter. (Will one way make
the skirt stand out more?) Has anyone done this? Have you noticed a difference?

Emma
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:18:36 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/27/2007 1:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
maggiros@yahoo.com writes:

Enough  fabric in the skirts, and cutting the panels in
gores instead of squares,  would make them drape
properly, which is probably what you're reacting  to.



************
 
Looks more 1640s....maybe 1650s, because this takes place before the great  
plays were written. [Another "great artists have no imagination but everything  
is autobiographical" film...like "Amadeus" or "Immortal Beloved"...yuck!]  
1650s...which makes me think Vermeer or ter Borch.
 
By then the bodice usually has a boned lining that is really a corset and  
skirts are not skimpy but don't have much underpinnings. Maybe a  petticoat. 
They fall straight in deep pleats from the cartridge  pleating. These yardages 
might be good for a maid, but not ladies in society.  And the decollatage is too 
low. There's just not much variety in the gowns. They  are all the same.
 
Remember the "Cyrano" with Gerard Depardue? Think of all the  different...and 
correct looks on the women in that film. Not here!
 
It reminded me of the skimpiness you see in some recent 17th century films,  
like "Marie Antoinette"... which doesn't translate as skimpiness but rather a  
kind of delicateness. This is in keeping with the type of decoration you  see 
in the late 17th century. But the Baroque sensibility is heavier, more lush  
and thick with ornament. It doesn't work in "Moliere".
 
IMHO of course....



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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In a message dated 7/27/2007 4:21:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
maggiros@yahoo.com writes:

unless  your French is much better than mine


***********
 
That's a laugh!
 
When we did the miniseries "The Wedding", the designer brought all these  
great 1950's clothes from LA for the extras. Well, they were all size 4 thru 8.  
The black ladies we had down here in NC couldn't get an arm into them! The  
designer started calling the big girls "Fried Chicken Ladies". Well,  we 
couldn't say that in front of them so we started using "Les dames du poulet  
frit"...I mean "Les belle dames du poulet frit".
 
There...my French!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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In a message dated 7/27/2007 5:19:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

This is  in keeping with the type of decoration you  see 
in the late 17th  century.


oops...I meant the 18th century....



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Status: RO

I have that Dover book, but my books have far overflowed my bookshelves 
and are stacked high all over the floors. So I can't pull it out right 
away to ID the picture. I can barely move my in-front-of-the-computer 
chair for piles of books related to the (long overdue) one I'm working 
on now.

If it helps any, I've published two books on late 1870s and early 1880s 
women's clothing, with patterns.  The series is called Fashions of the 
Gilded Age, and the two volumes can be used independently. Volume 2 
contains the patterns for evening and ball gowns, and a dressmaking 
manual, but Volume 1 has the patterns for corsets, bustles, 
undergarments, etc.

First, I'm a bit concerned about whether the
> dress will flatter her or not. She's 5' nothing and curvy. She's in
> proportion but weighs 125-130, so she's kinda built along the lines of
> Jennifer Rabbit only not so tall. Should I try to guide her away from
> this style and suggest more bustle, from maybe 1875 instead?

I think the minimal-bustle "natural form era" styles, which is what this 
  is, look better on shorter women than on very tall and slender ones. 
Tall women can wind up looking like a pole in them, if they are not 
careful.  (I'm 4'9", BTW.)


I usually buy 10 yards minimum, but I haven't a clue how
> much that skirt might require.

That's my standard buying amount for costumes I don't have yardage for. 
   But this is a period where different fabrics are commonly combined 
for evening dresses.

OK, I managed to dig up my office copy of Volume 2 of Fashions of the 
Gilded Age. Here's a pattern for an evening dress with a long train. The 
yardage given is 6 yards of velvet for the bodice and trained skirt 
back, 7 3/4 yards of satin for the skirt itself, and 3 1/4 yard of 
brocaded gauze to arrange over the skirt.

Here's a pattern for another evening dress, with a trained skirt back 
and more of a bustle effect, made entirely of canary yellow satin, 
requiring 20 yards 20 inches wide.

Which is a point to consider for these yardages:  They're not talking 
about modern 54" wide fabric.  There are two tables of period widths for 
a large variety of fabrics, in the dressmaking manual in back. They vary 
from fabric to fabric; but if you assume a width of not more than 36" in 
these descriptions, you should come out OK.

Here's a pattern for a reception dress with a moderate bustle effect and 
no train. It requires 12 yards of black satin duchesse and 5 1/2 yards 
of black brocade, 24 inches wide.

Here's a pattern for a satin and brocade evening dress with a rather 
short train. The skirt and its drapery require 18 yards of light bronze 
satin, and the polonaise (bodice combined with overskirt) requires 6 1/2 
yards of light blue satin brocade.

The book has patterns for several other evening dresses and ball gowns 
for which no yardage is given.  According to dressmaking instructions of 
the period, you were supposed to do a mock layout of your pattern on the 
floor and buy material accordingly.

You will also need a lining fabric. I always use rather lightweight, but 
not sheer (except for very light fabrics) plain-weave cotton, in as 
close to the same color as the outer fabric as I can find.  The lining 
fabrics they used run to a narrower selection of off white (for white 
fabrics), various shades of tan (for most fabrics) and black (for black 
fabrics). However, other colors were sometimes used.

Although "colored" laces were used to some extent in this period, the 
majority, especially for formal wear, were yellowish off-white, ecru, or 
black. These are classic colors you can always use for some other 
project if you have too much for this one.

There is a kind of coarse, off-white cotton lace that was very popular 
in the 1970s or so, which is a fairly decent imitation of Victorian 
bobbin lace. A lot of it gets sold on eBay, and you can buy long pieces 
in single styles. (Although, it is OK to mix lace patterns in trimming 
one garment if they harmonize and you do it in a logical way.) I've 
bought cards with as much as 50 yards of it, for reasonable prices.  So 
my advice is, go to eBay, browse the lace in the "textiles" section, and 
have a field day buying whatever patterns of this lace take your fancy. 
If you don't use them now you will later.

If it's 100% cotton lace you can dye it.  I have dyed lace ecru for an 
1890s ballgown by making strong coffee, and leaving the lace in there 
till the color was dark enough that I thought it would be right once it 
was rinsed and dried.  I don't like black lace, so don't buy it often, 
and have never dyed any black.

I just remembered:  Dharma Trading Company, www.dharmatrading.com, 
recently started carrying dyeable, 100% cotton, coarse bobbin-style 
laces, and they're cheap. I haven't bought any yet, but you might want 
to have a look.  Dharma also sells ecru and black dyes.

I don't know why you think your daughter won't wear the dress often. But 
she might find it more wearable with a detachable train to both the 
skirt and the trained petticoat that is needed underneath; which is a 
period thing to do.  For petticoats they buttoned on the trained part, 
for dress skirts there is more than one strategy.  Also, multiple-part 
dresses were common. She might find the dress more wearable with a 
choice of day and evening bodices, or a choice of two different 
underskirts to wear underneath.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Sewing Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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In a message dated 7/27/2007 6:03:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

I think  the minimal-bustle "natural form era" styles, which is what this 
is, look better on shorter women than on very tall and slender ones. 
Tall  women can wind up looking like a pole in them, if they are not  
careful.  (I'm 4'9", BTW.)



********************
 
Yes. Princess line gowns on curvy figures can be very flattering...even if  
one is short. And you don't have that huge wired bustle to deal with. I've seen 
 examples of the princess gown is a simple as possible... with ruching and  
draping in the same fabric tacked onto the princess line base gown. It looks  
like a complicated draped gown all in one but it's really several pieces.  The 
only problem is I think of them as late 1870's. 



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:28:56 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

=20
A lot of photographs and portraits from this era show women wearing the
fashionable silhouette, whether it flattered them or not, in our eyes.
But even in the 18th century, whether drawn on the imaginary ideal or a
painted portrait, artists tailored their work to an ideal that few women
could meet. And until the latter part of the 20th century, with the
advent of diets, plastic surgery, and just the rare draw of the right
DNA, very very few women did. Also, the fashionable ideal in the later
19th century was curvy and so-called "pocket Venuses"(short but curvy
women who could corset their waists to the fashionable ideal)rivalled
the taller women, like Lily Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt, who are more
attractive to the modern eye.

The important most important thing is fit. The latter half of the 19th
century abounds in surviving photographed portraits where fit isn't the
best. And few women could or would corset themselves to the fashionable
ideal, just as today, few women really can meet the under-ideal-weight
of fashion models and actresses. Proper drape and scale of fabric in
both weight and design is critical for both dolls and short persons like
me(below 5')Keeping to a single color tone is best on the short--for the
tall and very thin, then as now, can wear all the wild color
combinations of the Belle Epoque when new dye technology made really
bright colors possible.

Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
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Status: RO

I've always been taught to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side =
"baggy"....I would definitely NOT hang the bias ones! =20

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu<mailto:00217146@bigred.unl.edu>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 2:09 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question


  I am making a linen 4-panel, front/back/sides-gored variation on the =
Gothic
  Fitted Dress.

  Usually, when I do this, I cut eight gores (4 rectangles cut =
diagonally) and sew
  them in, straight-to-straight and bias-to-bias.

  This time, I cleverly thought "If I fold it in quarters first, and =
then cut,
  I'll have three isosceles triangles and two right triangles.  Fewer =
seams!"  But
  now that means I'm facing sewing straight-to-bias for at least three =
of the
  gores, if not all four.  I know that one side effect will be the =
tendancy of the
  fabric to pucker where the bias edge stretches and the straight edge =
does not. =20

  I seem to have two choices:

  Do I: hang the gores from the point for a few days to allow the fabric =
to
  stretch out before sewing them in place (which may or may not prevent =
puckering
  after the fact)?

  Do I: cut each triangle in half so I have my familliar eight gores =
(six of them
  being a little narrower than expected because I didn't factor in seam =
allowance)?

  I assume there will be a difference in drape between the two, I don't =
know
  whether or not it will be enough of a difference to matter. (Will one =
way make
  the skirt stand out more?) Has anyone done this? Have you noticed a =
difference?

  Emma
  _______________________________________________
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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Status: RO

Gosh! I go away for an hour for lunch and I come back and people are
full of insights and help. I love this group!

Thanks for the feedback on this natural curve period between bustles.
I think the princess line is flattering too, and I'm sure she'll look
and feel great in this dress.

I should have mentioned that yes, there is lots of self-fabric
pleating iat the bottom of the skirt, so I know that will add to the
amount needed.

Fran, thank you for listing the fabric requirements for those
different types of dresses. Once I sit down and work out some
calculations, I think I'll be fine. But it's nice to have a guideline.

I planned to flat line everything in black and line the bodice. Do you
all think the skirt needs flatlining and lining?

Fit will indeed be crucial, Cindy, and that's the part I'm hoping to
have some help with once I finish the corset. And I had forgotten the
term "pocket Venus." That will thrill Terry, who is tired of being the
shortest of her peers no matter what group she's with at the time.

Thanks, everyone. I'll keepin touch as I build this thing. I don't
have a blog, don't usually read them either, but it might be a good
time to start a blog on the progress of this dress.

I will continue to welcome input. I leave for Costume College on
Tuesday morning and will be back the following Wednesday, so if you
send ideas as they pop into your heads, please don't think I didn't
appreciate you notes.

LynnD

On 7/27/07, Abel, Cynthia <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:
>
> A lot of photographs and portraits from this era show women wearing the
> fashionable silhouette, whether it flattered them or not, in our eyes.
> But even in the 18th century, whether drawn on the imaginary ideal or a
> painted portrait, artists tailored their work to an ideal that few women
> could meet. And until the latter part of the 20th century, with the
> advent of diets, plastic surgery, and just the rare draw of the right
> DNA, very very few women did. Also, the fashionable ideal in the later
> 19th century was curvy and so-called "pocket Venuses"(short but curvy
> women who could corset their waists to the fashionable ideal)rivalled
> the taller women, like Lily Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt, who are more
> attractive to the modern eye.
>
> The important most important thing is fit. The latter half of the 19th
> century abounds in surviving photographed portraits where fit isn't the
> best. And few women could or would corset themselves to the fashionable
> ideal, just as today, few women really can meet the under-ideal-weight
> of fashion models and actresses. Proper drape and scale of fabric in
> both weight and design is critical for both dolls and short persons like
> me(below 5')Keeping to a single color tone is best on the short--for the
> tall and very thin, then as now, can wear all the wild color
> combinations of the Belle Epoque when new dye technology made really
> bright colors possible.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO

 
same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in wear  
/ hanging.
 
do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  sort 
out by fiddling with the machine tension.
 
 
 
In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  11
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
From: "Saragrace Knauf"  <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
To: "Historical Costume"  <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:  <BAY133-DAV1130B9E06CCF2F498A954FD2F30@phx.gbl>
Content-Type:  text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side 
"baggy"....I would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!  

Sg


 



   
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:04:49 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Brangwyne <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO

Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
eliminating the "travel" that happens with pinning the seam and then 
sewing with machine.

Starr


At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
>
>same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in wear
>/ hanging.
>
>do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  sort
>out by fiddling with the machine tension.
>
>
>
>In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>Message:  11
>Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
>From: "Saragrace Knauf"  <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
>To: "Historical Costume"  <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID:  <BAY133-DAV1130B9E06CCF2F498A954FD2F30@phx.gbl>
>Content-Type:  text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side
>"baggy"....I would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!
>
>Sg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO


Interesting!  I wonder if the problem I'm thinking of was originally a result of
inexperienced sewing, which I misinterpreted as fabric properties. It's the sort
of thing that I did years and years ago, thought "huh, doesn't work" and changed
methods.

With three responses that I'm interpreting as "go ahead!" and none against, I
guess I'll just get sewing!  Thank you!

Emma

Quoting Brangwyne <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>:

> Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
> eliminating the "travel" that happens with pinning the seam and then 
> sewing with machine.
> 
> Starr
> 
> 
> At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
> >
> >same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in
> wear
> >/ hanging.
> >
> >do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I 
> sort
> >out by fiddling with the machine tension.
> >
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
> >h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> >
> >Message:  11
> >Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
> >From: "Saragrace Knauf"  <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
> >To: "Historical Costume"  <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Message-ID:  <BAY133-DAV1130B9E06CCF2F498A954FD2F30@phx.gbl>
> >Content-Type:  text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> >I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a
> side
> >"baggy"....I would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!
> >
> >Sg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Status: RO


>  
> A lot of photographs and portraits from this era show women wearing the
> fashionable silhouette, whether it flattered them or not, in our eyes.

Yes--although the standard 19th-century fashion advice, in magazines and 
beauty books, was to wear what _was_ appropriate to the individual's 
figure, complexion, social position, budget, and the occasion.

Fortunately, modern reenactors, and people going to period-themed social 
events, are very often not restricted to wearing an extremely narrow 
range of styles or colors. They can even often choose among the styles 
of an entire decade, or even a longer period.  (Sometimes several 
centuries, as in the case of many SCA members.)

Most modern people spending a lot of time and often, a fair amount of 
money making a historic outfit, want it to be something that looks good 
on them. So, if someone has a free choice of a period ranging over some 
years of the 1870s or early 1880s (which is what has been under 
discussion), it would be silly for them to choose an unflattering style, 
or one they disliked, just because some people "in period" did so--when 
a flattering style the modern person liked would be equally appropriate 
and suitable for the modern occasion.

> But even in the 18th century, whether drawn on the imaginary ideal or a
> painted portrait, artists tailored their work to an ideal that few women
> could meet. And until the latter part of the 20th century, with the
> advent of diets, plastic surgery, and just the rare draw of the right
> DNA, very very few women did. 

Sure. I suspect most people on this list know all that. In fact, most 
people still don't look like the (modern) fashionable ideal.

Proper drape and scale of fabric in
> both weight and design is critical for both dolls and short persons like
> me(below 5')Keeping to a single color tone is best on the short

I'm not quite sure what your point is, but I'll say:  I'm 4'9" tall, and 
I've probably read most of the standard modern wardrobe-planning advice 
for petite women. Yes, part of the hackneyed modern advice (though the 
1870s and 1880s, the period that was under discussion, were periods when 
multiple-color dresses were very fashionable) is that short women should 
always wear one color, or at best, different shades of the same color. 
I've never paid the slightest attention to that "rule," nor to a lot of 
the other modern fashion advice for short women.  And I have studied 
fashion and pattern design, formally. So I have known, for many years, 
all about how horizontal lines add width, and vertical lines add length, 
and how details should be proportioned to the body.

My take is:  Height (barring extremes caused by medical problems) is not 
any kind of health or figure flaw. It's not something that should be 
concealed and in fact, it's not something that can be concealed.  It's 
also not something that can be changed.  Barring any onset of medical 
problems, it's going to be the same for your entire adult life.  No 
amount of diet, exercise, or as far as I know even surgery, is ever 
going to change your height. The most you can in terms of real, if 
temporary, increase or decrease is change your shoes.

So I see no point in deciding that my height is a "figure flaw," just 
because some fashion books say so. Yes, for every person there are some 
styles and colors that look truly unfortunate, and I certainly avoid my 
set of same.  But, I think going through an entire lifetime--of 
hopefully, 90 years or so given modern medicine--wearing one-color 
outfits just because some wardrobe-planning books say that makes you 
look "taller"--when everyone around you can't help realizing you're 
short anyway--is absurd.

Besides, on me at least, one-color outfits look incredibly dowdy.  There 
is nothing duller on me than one of those "ideal" one-piece sheath 
dresses.  Even when I faithfully followed the standard advice on 
"dressing them up" with accessories.

So I almost _always_ wear contrasting blouses and skirts (I prefer 
separates to dresses).  I look great in wide off-the-shoulder 
necklines--I've bought some modern knit tops like that, just so I can 
wear that silhouette in the daytime. I even have a couple with 
sort-of-Edwardian-bertha-things. I always wear long skirts--which used 
to be considered good for short women, as having a long line, but have 
recently been declared non-PC. I love big bulky hand-knit sweaters.  I 
like big jewelry.

In period outfits, I look fantastic in big mid-1890s sleeves, big 
mid-1880s bustles, hoopskirts, and wide-brimmed hats.

I wear lots of things I'm not "supposed" to wear. I look good, and I 
feel good about them.

It does help to study line, color, etc. to learn how to tweak the rules. 
  For example, the modern T-shirts and dresses with big scoop necklines. 
I have trouble with those, because the neckline is too low in proportion 
to my waist level. It's not that I look short, but I look like I'm 
wearing someone else's T-shirt.  But, I've discovered that if I wear 
_another_, higher-necked T-shirt underneath, often I can then wear a 
garment that looks too low-necked on its own.

Right now I'm wearing a brown XCVI Wearables "urban pixie dress" 
intended to be mid-calf, but which falls near my ankles. The neckline is 
so low on me, that I'd hesitate to wear this dress on the street with 
nothing under it. But I wear it over T-shirts as a jumper. Right now I'm 
wearing an "old rose" color horizontally-necked 3/4 sleeve T-shirt under 
it (San Francisco can be cold in July; I haven't seen the sun all day), 
and it looks great!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com






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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
References: <8296995c0707271340y5db5c666gbab8decc81f49e9@mail.gmail.com>	<46AA6B77.9030907@lavoltapress.com>	<BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F09C5F9B4@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
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> I planned to flat line everything in black and line the bodice. Do you
> all think the skirt needs flatlining and lining?

Unless it was a sheer fabric (and sometimes even then) late-1870s/early 
1880s dresses were usually fully flat-lined. If you are draping trim all 
over the skirt, the flat lining will help support its weight. However, 
you do not need to flat-line _and_ line the skirt. These styles run 
heavy, so don't add more weight than you have to.

Fran
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 19:44:32 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I sewed a straight to bias skirt once in an antique satin and it did 
bag out, especially more so over time.

Sylrog

On Jul 27, 2007, at 6:04 PM, Brangwyne wrote:

> Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
> eliminating the "travel" that happens with pinning the seam and then 
> sewing with machine.
>
> Starr
>
>
> At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
>>
>> same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh 
>> in wear
>> / hanging.
>>
>> do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  
>> sort
>> out by fiddling with the machine tension.
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
>> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>>
>> Message:  11
>> Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
>> From: "Saragrace Knauf"  <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
>> To: "Historical Costume"  <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Message-ID:  <BAY133-DAV1130B9E06CCF2F498A954FD2F30@phx.gbl>
>> Content-Type:  text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a 
>> side
>> "baggy"....I would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Article on Russian Viking-era find
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 00:55:24 -0400
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On Friday 27 July 2007, Beverly Azizi wrote:
> I am excited to reproduce the apron skirt and tunic.  This is really
> exciting to me as one of my first loves is the Viking stuff.  (Mind
> you it is all play for me I am not a serious historian but I strive
> for some authenticity.  Anyway, with the info about the colors and
> the decoration, and the assumed style, I always like to try to do
> that in my feeble way.  And I do have some blue and red silk remnants
> that should be perfect. Thank you for submitting the article on the list.

You're welcome.

I'm planning to do the same (yes, it's all play for me too) but probably won't 
get to it until later this year and don't have suitable silk remnants yet.  
I'd love to see how yours comes out, if you don't mind!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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In a message dated 7/27/2007 8:56:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

short  women should 
always wear one color, or at best, different shades of the  same color. 



**************
 
Hmmmmm... whatever. Most fashion advice is very subjective.
 
I can't think of a much more flattering look for a short woman with some  
curves than an 1870's princess gown with a contrasting plastron front cut to  
accentuate the curves and going right down to the hem.
There's a particularly fine example in...oh what is it?...  "19th  Century 
Fashion in Detail" of a blue and cream bold floral brocade with a solid  cream 
entirely ruched plastron front that spreads at the bust and hips and nips  in 
at the waist. The brocade is subtly draped to form some slight folds at the  
hip and no doubt some more dramatic folds at the back....but I can't see the  
back in the picture.
 
Lemme see if I can get my hands on the book.
 
 
Yes...it's "19th Century Fashion in Detail" by Lucy Johnston. The dress is  
on page 62 and 63. The drawing of the back view reveals a big vertical bow  at 
the bustle. It's actually draped from the hips on down, with horizontal rows  
of lace on the widening plastron below the hips. This, with its contrasts and  
horizontal detail, would look fantastic on a short person.
 
I was mixing it up with the gown on page 200, which is 1880's. Another  bold 
blue and white-ish floral brocade but this time a bodice and skirt....but  the 
pattern on the fabric practically hides this. Beautifully and skimpily  
draped at the front with a big, but not complex, bustle. This was  definitely a 
short person's dress, again looking fabulous.
 
There is also in the book another princess gown of cream with a plum pin  
stripe widely spaced. It has a cascading pleated ruffle, cream on one  side and 
solid plum on the other which you see as it formally zig-zags  down the front 
from high neck to hem. Very lovely. Page 174.
 
All these gowns' designs could be tweaked for evening. [Well, the 1st  one is 
an evening dress]



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c44.1b09f434.33dbbd66@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:48:03 +0200
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Status: RO

It surely is not, its more than 18 years ago i had french lessons in school, 
and i never used it. So its all forgotten again.
If you like the period, you should also look for "L'Allée du Roi" its a 2 
DVD long film about Madame de Maintenon, the mistress of Louis XIV. Its 
packed with beautifull costumes two. The fontanges in the end, are very 
varied both in materials and shapes. Its a beautifull film also, only also 
in french alone.
And while we are in it, you also can get Madame de Pompadour also a 2 DVD 
set about Louis XV' misstres. Also very nice.
The french are as good as the BBC when they make their own history.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere


>
> In a message dated 7/27/2007 4:21:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> maggiros@yahoo.com writes:
>
> unless  your French is much better than mine
>
>
> ***********
>
> That's a laugh!
>
> When we did the miniseries "The Wedding", the designer brought all these
> great 1950's clothes from LA for the extras. Well, they were all size 4 
> thru 8.
> The black ladies we had down here in NC couldn't get an arm into them! The
> designer started calling the big girls "Fried Chicken Ladies". Well,  we
> couldn't say that in front of them so we started using "Les dames du 
> poulet
> frit"...I mean "Les belle dames du poulet frit".
>
> There...my French!
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL 
> at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Brangwyne <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
In-Reply-To: <4a3008b9de7fd87798c72f3de521b855@ntw.net>
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Status: RO

The other trick I've found is start at the BOTTOM of the gore and sew 
upwards. No matter what. THEN hang the dress for 3 - 7 days and hem.

Works like a dream. Have three gowns done this way for myself and one 
for a friend that still haven't 'bagged' out after two years.

Starr

At 09:44 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
>I sewed a straight to bias skirt once in an antique satin and it did 
>bag out, especially more so over time.
>
>Sylrog

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 09:47:06 -0400
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Status: RO

I find this to be exactly opposite of my "gore inserting' experience! If
I start at the hem and work up, then the point always comes out wonky
and ugly. I start at the top and work down, or at least
hem-to-point-to-hem when I'm hand finishing. 

Diff'rent strokes, I guess. Or, different stitches for different, er,
seamstresses! :-D

::Linda::


On Behalf Of Brangwyne
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

The other trick I've found is start at the BOTTOM of the gore and sew 
upwards. No matter what. THEN hang the dress for 3 - 7 days and hem.

Works like a dream. Have three gowns done this way for myself and one 
for a friend that still haven't 'bagged' out after two years.

Starr

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Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:11:50 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Brangwyne <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO

*rotfl* you betcha!!!

Starr

At 09:47 AM 7/28/2007, you wrote:
>I find this to be exactly opposite of my "gore inserting' experience! If
>I start at the hem and work up, then the point always comes out wonky
>and ugly. I start at the top and work down, or at least
>hem-to-point-to-hem when I'm hand finishing.
>
>Diff'rent strokes, I guess. Or, different stitches for different, er,
>seamstresses! :-D
>
>::Linda::
>

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Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:46:20 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moliere
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/28/2007 7:49:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

The  french are as good as the BBC when they make their own  history.



*************
 
They just don't want anyone else to understand it.  :-P



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:33:38 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] I was looking for a Lucrezia Tourabuoni portrait
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I was looking for a Lucrezia Tourabuoni portrait and found her among
some other famous faces that had been "reworked" in a surrealistic
fashion.
http://www.martinlaspina.com.ar/g%20Pintura%201-a%20comparacion.htm
Generally, I think they're beautiful, but nothing I'd take home to my
Craftsman era house.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 12:11:46 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] I was looking for a Lucrezia Tourabuoni portrait
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Nope... not for me. Personally, I hate surrealism... my life is surreal
enough, thank you. I don't want it on my walls! :-)

Monica


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 11:34 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] I was looking for a Lucrezia Tourabuoni portrait


I was looking for a Lucrezia Tourabuoni portrait and found her among
some other famous faces that had been "reworked" in a surrealistic
fashion.
http://www.martinlaspina.com.ar/g%20Pintura%201-a%20comparacion.htm
Generally, I think they're beautiful, but nothing I'd take home to my
Craftsman era house.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
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Status: RO

I make all my own dress patterns, and I specifically design them so that I 
can sew straight-to-bias on the skirt area whenever possible.  The straight 
edge goes on the front, bias to the back; to my eye, it hangs best that way, 
since the skirt sort of tends to flow out behind you better.  Another 
benefit is that your gown will need little if any hanging before being 
hemmed; I don't even bother any more, since hanging didn't make any visible 
difference even after weeks.  Also, it will make your cutting layouts much 
more efficient!

-E House

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

NOW I remember why I hate that stuff. I just had the weirdest thing happen =
while using it.=0A=0AI am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabri=
c and used the ultra bond, the thread is Gutermann cotton thread. The first=
 two appliques went fine- a total dream; I was using plain cone thread for =
that. I switch to the Gutermann, and all hell breaks loose. The satin stitc=
h starts skipping stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop. I =
have to clean off my needle roughly once an inch. Nothing had changed from =
one pair to the other, except the thread and the weather. I was ripping my =
hair out trying to figure out what the problem was. The best we could come =
up with was the slight rise in humidity with the new weather front has caus=
ed the heat n bond to soften. I even tried to dry it with a hot iron, but t=
hat didn't work, either.=0A=0AAnyone else have this happen, and is there an=
ything I can do to make it stop??=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant t=
ail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slip=
ped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head era=
sed gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-Georg=
e Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of know=
ledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They=
 can only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you =
to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Get news delivered with the All =
new Yahoo! Mail.  Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page. Start today at h=
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Status: RO

Kathy Page wrote:

> Anyone else have this happen, and is there anything I can do to make it stop??
> 

Perhaps the change in thread also needs a change in thread tension. 
They're not all wound the same, or coming off the spool the same. A very 
tiny adjustment can affect how the applique stitch goes down.

A new needle might help in getting through the applique layers. Either a 
sharper one or a wider one to make a bigger hole for the thread.

One other thing to try, is to make the applique with the heat-n-bond cut 
just short of the edge of the fabric, then there's less of it to get in 
the needle.

If none of that works, you might just have to go back to a cotton thread.



Dawn


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:14:47 -0400
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Status: RO

On Friday 27 July 2007, E House wrote:
> Not surprisingly, I don't speak Russian, but on the Russian site it looks
> to me like that second smaller sketch shows the front of the apron folded
> into that shape--sort of like a giant box pleat held in place by the
> brooches--rather than with a second narrower apron over it.  At least, it
> makes a lot more sense to me that way.

To do that, though, you'd need a second set of loops on the apron dress 
itself-otherwise the fold wouldn't stay in place.  It's unclear at best from 
the information at hand whether the garment found had more than two pair of 
loops--one front, one back--on it.

Beatson's summary (don't know about the Russian either) claims that the 
smaller sketch posits a separate, narrow apron over the silk-trimmed apron 
dress.  Though that might solve the "what makes it stay on " problem, I can't 
believe that any self-respecting Viking would hide all of that silk under 
another garment.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:49:33 -0400
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Status: RO

I was told once that when sewing bias, go from widest to narrowest and you 
get the smoothest seams.

Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question


>I find this to be exactly opposite of my "gore inserting' experience! If
> I start at the hem and work up, then the point always comes out wonky
> and ugly. I start at the top and work down, or at least
> hem-to-point-to-hem when I'm hand finishing.
>
> Diff'rent strokes, I guess. Or, different stitches for different, er,
> seamstresses! :-D
>
> ::Linda::
>
>
> On Behalf Of Brangwyne
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question
>
> The other trick I've found is start at the BOTTOM of the gore and sew
> upwards. No matter what. THEN hang the dress for 3 - 7 days and hem.
>
> Works like a dream. Have three gowns done this way for myself and one
> for a friend that still haven't 'bagged' out after two years.
>
> Starr
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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References: <379961.46007.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] If you could -
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:37:55 -0700
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Status: RO

I'd do the Dorothy Dunnett  "House of Nicolo" series.  A 15th century =
piece (if I remember correctly) in Bruges. There are several costumes =
described which I think would be so much fun.  One of them is where the =
main characters clothing was stolen while he was sleeping, sewn with =
many bells, and then returned.  He puts it on and proceeds to do a "pied =
piper" thing with all the goats in the village.  There is also a scene =
where he rides an ostrich through town which has been de-feathered.  Of =
course that isn't a costume thing so much....  ;}

Then there is her Lymond Chronicles too, (16th century) where the =
protagonist from England, France to Middle east....lots of costume =
opportunities there.

Sg
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Status: RO

which book/story would you like to costume? Why? We
were having a discussion the other day about this
topic and had some really interesting choices.

I myself decided on Brian Daley's "Jinx on a Terran
Inheritance" series for the book selection and any
Firefly script for the story. Mostly because the
styles are pulled from any culture and time period and
it would be loads of fun.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8296995c0707271340y5db5c666gbab8decc81f49e9@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 15:29:52 -0700
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Status: RO

Hi, Lynn, well, the dark blue and rustle part is easy--- Blue/black
changeable taffeta! I don't have the book, what will it look like?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 1:40 PM
To: GBACGcostumers@yahoogroups.com; Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown

(Sorry for the cross-post)  I'm out of my design league and could really use
some help from anyone who has worked in the 1880s era.

I'm making a gown for my 16-year old daughter for a ball in March.
After looking through all my books, she has chosen one from "Victorian and
Edwardian Fashions from 'La Mode Illustree' ", edited by J. Olian (Dover).
"Her" dress is the first one on page 60, an elegant ball gown from 1880.
Unfortunately, the legend only says that it's made of satin, no more info.
First, I'm a bit concerned about whether the dress will flatter her or not.
She's 5' nothing and curvy. She's in proportion but weighs 125-130, so she's
kinda built along the lines of Jennifer Rabbit only not so tall. Should I
try to guide her away from this style and suggest more bustle, from maybe
1875 instead?

I first thought of making the bustle a bit wider but maybe the thinness of
this bustle dress is a good thing for my girl, to lengthen and slenderize.
Yes? No?

Her initial criteria: it has to be dark blue, it has to have a train, it has
to rustle, it has to be beautiful. No pressure, Mom.

Normally, I'll keep a picture of the design near me for several days so I
can dream on it and kind of work out the kinks before I purchase anything,
but time is tight. I'm going to Costume College and will have a day for
shopping in the fabric district before I have to come home to the real world
of work and family. While I'm in LA I can pick up the fabric and maybe even
the trim, but I haven't any idea of how much material that dress will
require. She may only wear this dress a couple times, so I'm going to go
with a changeable poly taffeta rather than silk. I usually buy 10 yards
minimum, but I haven't a clue how much that skirt might require. I'm
guessing 2 for the bodice, another
2 for the underskirt, but where do I go from there? Is 10 yards enough or
will I need more? Too much? Do you think there are two dark colors in this
dress or only one? I'll probably trim/contrast with black if two colors. So
there's not too much contrast. I'll use a heavy, twice-worked lace to
reproduce that embroidery on the edges. And the yards and yards of lighter
laces on the dress, both dark and light.
How can one gauge - from a picture - how much to buy?

I'm already working on Laughing Moon's corset pattern for her and I'll get
the bustle pattern from Truly Victorian while I'm at College. I've made one
of each of their two bustles and they work wonderfully, but my size is too
big for Terry. I'll probably go to TV for the bodice and skirt patterns too
because I don't feel comfortable draping yet, but I'd sure like any
suggestions or help you can give me. I've done several Elizabethan outfits
and several more 1840s-60s but never anything so late - even though I have
plans to make one for myself.

I swear I'm not asking for you to make the darned thing, but it's
overwhelming me right now with the many things I don't know about this
style.

Thanks for any help you can toss my way,

LynnD
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=20

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sat 7/28/2007 4:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] If you could -



I'd do the Dorothy Dunnett  "House of Nicolo" series.  A 15th century =
piece (if I remember correctly) in Bruges. There are several costumes =
described which I think would be so much fun.  One of them is where the =
main characters clothing was stolen while he was sleeping, sewn with =
many bells, and then returned.  He puts it on and proceeds to do a "pied =
piper" thing with all the goats in the village.  There is also a scene =
where he rides an ostrich through town which has been de-feathered.  Of =
course that isn't a costume thing so much....  ;}

Then there is her Lymond Chronicles too, (16th century) where the =
protagonist from England, France to Middle east....lots of costume =
opportunities there.

Sg

And don't forget Russia.
=20
Patty


______________________________

=20

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 00:16:28 -0500
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Status: RO

I have not seen the sketch but does it say anywhere that there are loops at
all on this specific dress? Why do you feel that all apron dresses at the
time had loops? Could there not have been an exception somewhere?

De

-----Original Message-----
To do that, though, you'd need a second set of loops on the apron dress
itself-otherwise the fold wouldn't stay in place.  It's unclear at best from
the information at hand whether the garment found had more than two pair of
loops--one front, one back--on it.


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] If you could -
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 15:41:38 +1000
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Status: RO

I think I'd pick Orlando (I know it's already been done but if there was a 
remake), the 500 year timespan coincides with all the historical styles I 
really love. I'm sure there are other stories that cover a broad sweep of 
time like that, but Orlando is the only one I can think of right now.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] If you could -
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Status: RO

Ill do Schaeffers "Amadeus" or a danish play from same period named: 
"Struensee was here". About the insane danish king Christian VII and his 
queen Caroline Mathilde, and the affair the queen had with the kings doctor 
Struensee.
Oh my!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 6:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] If you could -


> which book/story would you like to costume? Why? We
> were having a discussion the other day about this
> topic and had some really interesting choices.
>
> I myself decided on Brian Daley's "Jinx on a Terran
> Inheritance" series for the book selection and any
> Firefly script for the story. Mostly because the
> styles are pulled from any culture and time period and
> it would be loads of fun.
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
>
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat 
> folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 06:55:08 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/28/2007 3:57:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

Perhaps  the change in thread also needs a change in thread tension. 
They're not  all wound the same, or coming off the spool the same. A very 
tiny  adjustment can affect how the applique stitch goes down.

A new needle  might help in getting through the applique layers. Either a 
sharper one or  a wider one to make a bigger hole for the thread.



Are you using an embroidery needle--has a bigger eye and groove for the  
thread.  Also, try the liquid Sewer's Aid on your needle--it works great  
preventing skipped stitches and "gunk" build up to sew through the glued-on  "sequin" 
fabric, so it might help you.
 
Ann Wass



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Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 08:57:10 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

At 05:55 AM 7/29/2007, you wrote:

>Are you using an embroidery needle--has a bigger eye and groove for the
>thread.  Also, try the liquid Sewer's Aid on your needle--it works great
>preventing skipped stitches and "gunk" build up to sew through the 
>glued-on  "sequin"
>fabric, so it might help you.

Another idea,  A friend of mine has this exact problem appliqueing Linen.

She iron's onto the wrong side of the base fabric a layer of the 
tear-away fabric paper that stiffens the fabric.....can't remember the name.

This reduces the gum up to the point that she doesn't have a problem 
any more.  Then, when she's done, she just tears the paper away and 
all is great.

Good luck
Genie 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Article on Russian Viking-era find
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 02:28:36 -0400
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Status: RO

On Sunday 29 July 2007, otsisto wrote:
> I have not seen the sketch but does it say anywhere that there are loops at
> all on this specific dress?

The fabric remnant did not have loops on it.  However, it was buried with a 
pair of tortoise brooches, and the remains of blue linen loops were found in 
the tortoise brooches.  The summary I read suggested that the loops found in 
the brooches were similar to the linen neckline area of the underdress.  The 
location of the alleged loops was deduced from stitching holes in the 
surviving remnant.

By the way, both the English summary and the original Russian report include 
the sketch, and the photos.

> Why do you feel that all apron dresses at the 
> time had loops? Could there not have been an exception somewhere?

I'd like to note here that I've been reporting in this thread what the summary 
of the archaeologists' report said, not my own theories.  :-)  

That being said, I actually do believe that whatever their shape or cut, apron 
dresses did have loops of some kind.  I think that for the same reason the 
archaeologists who have proposed the idea do, namely, that many, many pairs 
of tortoise brooches have been found, and the ones that have textile remains 
show loops.  The loops are similar in size (about 1 cm wide) and where other 
fabric remains exist nearby, often match those remains.

I also believe that apron dresses had loops because I have made apron dresses 
with wider straps, and they don't work nearly as well.  They're harder to get 
into and out of, and they don't work as well with the tortoise brooch pins.  

Now, it's certainly true that not all women in the Viking period wore tortoise 
brooches.  There were other options for overdresses.  For instance, the woman 
in the grave at Eura, Finland, wore a peplos (which was discernible because 
part of the overfold survived).  But the brooches associated with that find 
weren't tortoise brooches--they were flat, round brooches.

I think the real question that should be asked about the Pskov find is "Was 
the large silk remnant that was found part of an apron dress or not?"  Since 
the textile does not have loops on it, and the tortoise brooches were not 
found attached to the textile, but were merely "enclosed" in it, that 
suggests but does not prove that they were worn with it as an apron dress.  
The English summary also suggests, but is not clear about whether any blue 
linen pieces matching the loops in the brooches were found attached to the 
silk (the summary says, "The blue linen base fabric to which these silk 
borders were presumably appliqued has almost completely decayed...."). 

 But it's not possible to have a meaningful debate on this question without at 
least the benefit of better photos of the large silk remnant, since the 
presence/location of stitching holes to attach loops and the presence or 
absence of linen backing are necessary clues to confirm or refute the apron 
dress theory.  I really hope a detailed writeup on this find is done on this 
fascinating find.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Did you say you used the ultra heat-n-bond? I did that once for a baby quilt I was making with the exact same results. Heat-n-bond LITE is the product made for applique projects. Never once had a problem with it during sewing or in use of quilt.


Jodi
       
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Subject: [h-cost] Peach silk for sale?
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Status: RO

Hello:=0A=0AI'll probably get my knuckles rapped for trying to flog stuff o=
n the list, but my excuse is that members of h-costume group will probably =
appreciate it more than anyone else - I have silk I'd like to sell.=0A=0ASo=
me time ago I purchased 10 yards of peach 100% silk because it was a good p=
rice at Designer Textiles in Toronto. I've finally admitted to myself that =
peach isn't really my colour, if I dye it I will ruin it, and I have way, w=
ay too much stuff - fabric, projects, etc. already!=0A =0AIt's 56 inches wi=
de and has good "body" - it's not that limp china silk. =0A=0AIt's very sim=
ilar in colour (identical?) to the silk dress on pages 66-67 of "Revolution=
 in Fashion: 1715-1815". That's probably why I bought it! While it's not ri=
bbed like that fabric, it does have an asymetrical stripe pattern woven in.=
 I could see it as an 18th c. gown or even a bustle gown - not that it's an=
y of my business how anyone decides to use it! I've even seen a peach Civil=
 War era gown somewhere.=0A=0AI'd sell it for $150 U.S. That would include =
shipping. Paypal would be good.=0A=0ALet me know if you want pictures. I'm =
still strugglling to figure out my digital camera, so it would be good prac=
tice for me.=0A=0AI also have 10 yards of blue and silver striped silk (nar=
row stripes) but I have to find it to measure the width. I was thinking Vic=
torian day or evening dress when I bought it. =0A=0A=0ASheridan Alder=0A=0A=
=0A      Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk em=
ail the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_=
beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Status: RO

Not having computer access at the weekend, I missed the discussion on
this topic, but I agree that the three women in the foreground don't
have enough petticoats and their shoulders poke out too much. The one on
the extreme right in the background looks better.

c.f.

http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/vermeer/p-vermeer7.htm 

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?maker=TERBORCH&object=405532&row=1

The men's costumes look better. I love the photo of the gentleman in
the Place des Vosges 
(Place Royale as it was then).

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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Status: RO

At 07:08 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
>And I had forgotten the
>term "pocket Venus." That will thrill Terry, who is tired of being the
>shortest of her peers no matter what group she's with at the time.


As I'm the same height as Terry, I rather like that term myself. :-)

Dianne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Heat-n-Bond Hell
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Status: RO

At 08:27 PM 7/29/2007, you wrote:
>Did you say you used the ultra heat-n-bond? I did that once for a 
>baby quilt I was making with the exact same results. Heat-n-bond 
>LITE is the product made for applique projects. Never once had a 
>problem with it during sewing or in use of quilt.
>
>
>Jodi


Yes, never, NEVER use the Ultra Hold for projects you intend to sew. 
Ultra Hold is supposed to hold on its own, though they do recommend 
finishing the edges with fabric paint. I don't trust it--but then I 
don't applique much, with or without fusible web.

Dianne 

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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 23:02:08 +1000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I am 5' 2" and extremely curvy, or should I say bottom heavy?!

I wear an 1880s bustle gown in a plaid silk dupion. The bodice and apron are
out of plaid, then the bustled underskirt is another colour.

There is a photo at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/2006/govt/100_2045.jpg
where we are being a bit silly after a formal display and have let our hair
down a bit, and also at
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/2006/NFF2006/100_2220.jpg

Right now our whole group are making cancan outfits. I'm sick of ruffles!

Cheers, Aylwen


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Status: RO

Peacock feathers make great cat toys too!
they love them!

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 7/25/2007 11:47:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] hat makers (or other people who use feathers)
>
> > There's always a market for these feathers. FIrst check to see if the
> > opera, theater in your area might want them for costuming. They would
> > want a bunch but not necessarily hundreds at once. I don't know how
> > long you've been collecting them. Check here, of course. I know there
> > are millinary lists, but I don't know where they are.
>
>
> Thanks!  I'll check out ebay to see what kinds of things are offered and 
> what kinds of prices are to be had. We've had peafowl the longest, so we 
> have several years' worth of those, and they get longer and more profuse 
> every year.  The Lady Amherst and Golden and __?___ pheasants are
starting 
> to produce some extraordinary feathers, but never very many at a time.
Even 
> the turkeys (Bourbon Red) have interesting feathers, although they don't 
> have the "splash" and drape of the pheasants.
>
> If anyone here wants to write me privately to see about purchasing, feel 
> free!  I don't think this is the place for flat-out selling, but if you
know 
> of a list where it's welcomed, send info on that too, please.
>
> Denise B
> Iowa 
>
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Status: RO

I'll probably go to TV for the bodice and skirt patterns too because I  don't 
feel comfortable draping yet,
but I'd sure like any suggestions or help  you can give me
 
Lynn, If you are going to be at costume college this weekend, get hold of  
Heather or Laura from Truly Victorian and tell them of your dilemma.  If  anyone 
could help you with yardages, style suggestions, adaptations etc. it is  
these wonderfully, creative women.  Then you will have your information for  
shopping on Monday (I'm going too!) and won't proceed on guess work.
 
I'm sure your daughter will feel like a princess in her gown!
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com



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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:02:32 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 1880 Ball Gown
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Status: RO

Thanks, Donna. That was the other reason I needed to get suggestions
from the group before I leave tomorrow (the first being shopping for
fabric/trim). Spending time with Heather and Laura is always budgeted
into my shopping time at Costume College, and I hope they're not too
busy I can't talk to them about my project. They are very helpful and
have always been quite willing to talk about their designs and
variations thereof. Also, if you're going to Costume College and have
never taken one of their classes, it's a MUST!! No one else can pack a
half day lecture into one hour like they can. They teach like sisters
too; they debate and tease the whole time without it ever being
unprofessional or annoying. Instead it makes for an even more fun
class.

Luckily, my daughter has felt like a princess since I agreed to make
this dress for her. Then again, she's felt like a princess from the
time she was born.

LynnD

On 7/30/07, FyneHats2@aol.com <FyneHats2@aol.com> wrote:
> I'll probably go to TV for the bodice and skirt patterns too because I  don't
> feel comfortable draping yet,
> but I'd sure like any suggestions or help  you can give me
>
> Lynn, If you are going to be at costume college this weekend, get hold of
> Heather or Laura from Truly Victorian and tell them of your dilemma.  If  anyone
> could help you with yardages, style suggestions, adaptations etc. it is
> these wonderfully, creative women.  Then you will have your information for
> shopping on Monday (I'm going too!) and won't proceed on guess work.
>
> I'm sure your daughter will feel like a princess in her gown!
>
> Donna Scarfe
> Fyne Hats By Felicity
> Period Headgear for Past Ages
> www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:12:02 -0700
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Status: RO

I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is
horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He =
recommended
some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a "M"). Of course, =
I
have 50 colors of Gutermann.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 12:37 PM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell

NOW I remember why I hate that stuff. I just had the weirdest thing =
happen
while using it.

I am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabric and used the =
ultra
bond, the thread is Gutermann cotton thread. The first two appliques =
went
fine- a total dream; I was using plain cone thread for that. I switch to =
the
Gutermann, and all hell breaks loose. The satin stitch starts skipping
stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop. I have to clean =
off
my needle roughly once an inch. Nothing had changed from one pair to the
other, except the thread and the weather. I was ripping my hair out =
trying
to figure out what the problem was. The best we could come up with was =
the
slight rise in humidity with the new weather front has caused the heat n
bond to soften. I even tried to dry it with a hot iron, but that didn't
work, either.

Anyone else have this happen, and is there anything I can do to make it
stop??

Kathy
=20
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.=20
It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.=20
Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can =
only
assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to =
their
own image.





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Subject: RE: [h-cost] If you could -
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:14:22 -0700
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Status: RO

In college, we had to costume "Midsummer Night's Dream" in a non-European
style. The best was the sci-fi version. I always wanted to see that one done
up. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 9:21 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] If you could -

which book/story would you like to costume? Why? We were having a discussion
the other day about this topic and had some really interesting choices.

I myself decided on Brian Daley's "Jinx on a Terran Inheritance" series for
the book selection and any Firefly script for the story. Mostly because the
styles are pulled from any culture and time period and it would be loads of
fun.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:16:22 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

Hey Sharon,

I have an old Kenmore (purchased new mid-1970s) and I use almost only
Gutermann thread. I never have any trouble. I've used the
Metro-something and had problems. I think it really depends on your
machine, and I believe the new ones are fussier than the old ones.
Heck, it ran on Coats & Clark for years and ran just fine.

LynnD


On 7/30/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is
> horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He recommend=
ed
> some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a "M"). Of course, I
> have 50 colors of Gutermann.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kathy Page
> Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 12:37 PM
> To: Historical Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
>
> NOW I remember why I hate that stuff. I just had the weirdest thing happe=
n
> while using it.
>
> I am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabric and used the ultr=
a
> bond, the thread is Gutermann cotton thread. The first two appliques went
> fine- a total dream; I was using plain cone thread for that. I switch to =
the
> Gutermann, and all hell breaks loose. The satin stitch starts skipping
> stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop. I have to clean of=
f
> my needle roughly once an inch. Nothing had changed from one pair to the
> other, except the thread and the weather. I was ripping my hair out tryin=
g
> to figure out what the problem was. The best we could come up with was th=
e
> slight rise in humidity with the new weather front has caused the heat n
> bond to soften. I even tried to dry it with a hot iron, but that didn't
> work, either.
>
> Anyone else have this happen, and is there anything I can do to make it
> stop??
>
> Kathy
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a ro=
se
> Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
> It's never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
> Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can onl=
y
> assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to their
> own image.
>
>
>
>
>
>       Get news delivered with the All new Yahoo! Mail.  Enjoy RSS feeds
> right on your Mail page. Start today at
> http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:20:21 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 7/30/2007 4:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

He  recommended
some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a "M"). Of  course, I
have 50 colors of Gutermann.




That is probably Metrosene.  Funny, I thought Metrosene and Gutermann  were 
about equivalent in quality--both long-staple polyester. I'm pretty  sure I can 
use both in my Bernina.  What I can't use, at least on the  bobbin, is Coats 
and Clark (and of course the REALLY cheap stuff is out of the  question).  
 
Ann Wass 
 
 



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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

I use only Gutermann=2E Coats and Clark snarls in *all* of my sewing
machines (I=27ve got several - a couple with horizontal spool feeds and
one with a vertical spool feed)=2E I=27ve used Metrosene without incident=
=2E =


My machines are both foreign and domestic and are antique as well as new=2E=


kate

----- Original Message -----
From=3A Sharon Collier =3Csharon=40collierfam=2Ecom=3E
Date=3A Monday=2C July 30=2C 2007 4=3A14 pm
Subject=3A RE=3A =5Bh-cost=5D Heat n Bond Hell
To=3A =27Historical Costume=27 =3Ch-costume=40indra=2Ecom=3E

=3E I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is=

=3E horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine=2E He =

=3E recommendedsome thread (I don=27t remember the name=2C started with a=
 =

=3E =22M=22)=2E Of course=2C I
=3E have 50 colors of Gutermann=2E
=3E =

=3E -----Original Message-----
=3E From=3A h-costume-bounces=40indra=2Ecom =5Bmailto=3Ah-costume-
=3E bounces=40indra=2Ecom=5D On
=3E Behalf Of Kathy Page
=3E Sent=3A Saturday=2C July 28=2C 2007 12=3A37 PM
=3E To=3A Historical Costume List
=3E Subject=3A =5Bh-cost=5D Heat n Bond Hell
=3E =

=3E NOW I remember why I hate that stuff=2E I just had the weirdest thing=
 =

=3E happenwhile using it=2E
=3E =

=3E I am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabric and used =

=3E the ultra
=3E bond=2C the thread is Gutermann cotton thread=2E The first two =

=3E appliques went
=3E fine- a total dream=3B I was using plain cone thread for that=2E I =

=3E switch to the
=3E Gutermann=2C and all hell breaks loose=2E The satin stitch starts ski=
pping
=3E stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop=2E I have to =

=3E clean off
=3E my needle roughly once an inch=2E Nothing had changed from one pair =

=3E to the
=3E other=2C except the thread and the weather=2E I was ripping my hair o=
ut =

=3E tryingto figure out what the problem was=2E The best we could come up=
 =

=3E with was the
=3E slight rise in humidity with the new weather front has caused the =

=3E heat n
=3E bond to soften=2E I even tried to dry it with a hot iron=2C but that =

=3E didn=27twork=2C either=2E
=3E =

=3E Anyone else have this happen=2C and is there anything I can do to =

=3E make it
=3E stop=3F=3F
=3E =

=3E Kathy
=3E =

=3E Ermine=2C a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder =

=3E with a rose
=3E Or barbed=2C seeded=2C slipped and leaved vert
=3E (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules=2E =

=3E It=3Fs never too late to be who you might have been=2E
=3E -George Eliot
=3E Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc=2E - Questioning is the beginning of =

=3E knowledge=2E =

=3E Who you are is contained inside=2C and no one can change that=2E They=
 =

=3E can only
=3E assist you in denying who you are=2C but not indelibly reshape you to=
 =

=3E theirown image=2E
=3E =

=3E =

=3E =

=3E =

=3E =

=3E      Get news delivered with the All new Yahoo! Mail=2E  Enjoy RSS =

=3E feedsright on your Mail page=2E Start today at
=3E http=3A//mrd=2Email=2Eyahoo=2Ecom/try=5Fbeta=3F=2Eintl=3Dca
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 15:57:23 -0700
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Status: RO

On Jul 30, 2007, at 1:12 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is
> horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He =20
> recommended
> some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a "M"). Of =20
> course, I
> have 50 colors of Gutermann.

It's probably Mettler Metrosene polyester thread, or perhaps =20
M=F6lnlycke polyester thread. This is the first time, though, that I've =20=

heard bad things about G=FCtermann thread.

There's a fun page at <http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/=20
aa102100a.htm> of microphotography of different threads. Metrosene, =20
M=F6lnlycke and G=FCtermann all look really good in the microphotography =
=20
test.

andy=
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Subject: [h-cost] Thread, fusible webs
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Status: RO

 
I've been reading the posts about stitching through Heat and Bond, and what
sewing machine salesmen have to say about threads.

There are MANY brands of fusible web on the market. Personally, I never use
Heat n Bond, even if I get some free. Nasty stuff. If you must use it for
sewing through, get the LIGHT version. The regular stuff is not meant to be
sewn. Check out other brands at your local fabric or quilt shop.

Another alternative is a temporary spray adhesive. I recommend Sulky KK2000.

Guterman is quality thread, and should not give you any trouble, UNLESS you
happen to have some of the spools that were made in Mexico. (The label will
say Mexico). They tried this for a while, and quickly dropped it--the thread
was very poor quality. That was several years ago.

Mettler makes polyester all-purpose thread (Metrosene) and cotton thread in
several weights. I like Mettler silk-finish cotton for both hand and machine
sewing. It has a smooth, shiny finish, but is completely cotton. They also
make a cotton embroidery thread, which is finer. It isn't strong enough for
constructing seams. Mettler makes polyester threads on large cones designed
for sergers also. They sell a line of cotton thread designated for hand
quilting, but I prefer to use the silk-finish cotton for hand quilting--it
looks nicer, and flows more smoothly.

J&P Coats also makes quality thread, I have no qualms about using it. If
your machine holds the spool horizontally, Coats spools may not work as well
(mine is vertical).

One thread that can give you problems in any brand is black. For some
reason, that is harder to manufacture without slubs. If you get a bad spool
of black, return it for exchange.

A well made sewing machine, in good working order, should NOT have any
trouble with Guterman thread--machine salesmen sometimes tell you these
things as an excuse when the machine they want to sell you isn't sewing
properly. (no flames from salespersons, please--I used to be one myself. I
know that not all of us are unscrupulous.)

Kim

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO

Greetings--
> I am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabric and used the ultra
> bond, the thread is Gutermann cotton thread. The first two appliques went
> fine- a total dream; I was using plain cone thread for that. I switch to the
> Gutermann, and all hell breaks loose. The satin stitch starts skipping
> stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop. I have to clean off
> my needle roughly once an inch. Nothing had changed from one pair to the
> other, except the thread and the weather. I was ripping my hair out trying
> to figure out what the problem was. The best we could come up with was the
> slight rise in humidity with the new weather front has caused the heat n
> bond to soften. I even tried to dry it with a hot iron, but that didn't
> work, either.
>
> Anyone else have this happen, and is there anything I can do to make it
> stop??
It may actually be that your cone thread is thinner than the Gutermann.  
It's also probably poly, and probably slips through easier.  Cotton does 
tend to catch more easily, as it's usually not all that slippery (unless 
it's the "silk finish" type someone else mentioned.

Others have pointed out the issues with Heat n' Bond, particularly the 
Ultra.  I discovered this myself many, many years ago, which is why I 
switched to Wonder Under for applique work.  Sticks it down just well 
enough to keep things steady and in place, and is not plasticky-gummy at 
all.

Susan

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Machine versus thread
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Status: RO


--- Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:

> I just bought a new machine and the salesman said
> Gutermann thread is
> horrible and recommended against using it in my new
> machine. He recommended
> some thread (I don't remember the name, started with
> a "M"). Of course, I
> have 50 colors of Gutermann.

probably Metrosene, and probably spelled wrong. :)

As I understand it, the twist and grist of thread
varies from one company to the next, and almost
certainly within a company between fibers and types. 
And this relates to the mechanics of physically making
a stitch, which varies between machines and companies.

So some people turn their noses up at Coats & Clark
cotton-covered polyester thread, as it does not work
in their (often European designed) machines.  They
find it to fluff itself to shreds.  'you must always
use gutermann' they often say.

Now, my main sewing machine is a 1951 cast iron Singer
monstrosity, but has run fine for 20 years in my
ownership.  This machine finds the staple end of
Gutermann three and four and five times in a spool! 
Whereas good ol' Coats & Clark runs just fine.

So, try sewing on your new machine with Gutermann, and
if your machine sews poorly with it, even with
different needles & such, try the recommended brand
and see if it's an improvement.

Ann in CT


       
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Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:07:58 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Machine versus thread
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Status: RO

> > I just bought a new machine and the salesman said
> > Gutermann thread is
> > horrible and recommended against using it in my new
> > machine. He recommended
> > some thread (I don't remember the name, started with
> > a "M"). Of course, I
> > have 50 colors of Gutermann.
>
> probably Metrosene, and probably spelled wrong. :)

Metrosene is fantastic in my Husquvarna of the late 50s/early 60s. It
is also especially good for modern fabrics with a high
polyester/nylon/lycra content as it won't shred. So the fabric you are
sewing with also plays a part in how well a thread stands up. Also
needles. Sometimes the eye will be still rough and cuts the thread so
sometimes the same makes size and type of needle in the same pack can
lead to shredding.
I have had no trouble with Gutermann cottons in my machine except for
the black. And that goes for their poly thread as well. I wonder if it
has anything to do with the dye being corrosive on the thread at all.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glitterswet.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:19:42 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Updates to my site, input desired
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Status: RO

Kia ora all,

I now have time and resources to update my website. I have just
finally updated the Extant garments page under the Spanish section as
well as a list of links to recreations of Spanish dress of the 16thC.
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm (some links from this
list I believe?)
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/recreations.htm
I am about to prettify both the Saya Espanola and Frazzled Frau
sections and also update them both. Better spellchecking being one
must do;)

Does anyone have any particular desire for the Frazzled Frau section?
In terms of content I mean. I am thinking about looking at a
geographical page to show some basic styles from the main cities for
instance. It won't be comprehensive but it might help in a first step.
Possibly with a map to refer to.

If I do a page of links to recreations it will only be to pages of
people who have notes and/or a dress diary. There are so many
wonderful recreations out there that it can be intimidating or
overwhelming just to look at picture after picture. So if you know of
any dress diary/information pages please let me know and I'll start
bookmarking (please feel free to do this off list as it may clutter
the list up.)

My own costume section needs updating too but that will have to wait
as I have no pictures of recent work that really shows it off well.
And I need to get permission to use images;)

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Selling stuff (was: Peach silk for sale?)
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Status: RO


On Sun, 29 Jul 2007, Sheridan Alder wrote:

> I'll probably get my knuckles rapped for trying to flog stuff on the
> list, but my excuse is that members of h-costume group will probably
> appreciate it more than anyone else - I have silk I'd like to sell.

H-cost has a coupole of spinoff lists just for this purpose. Probably time
to remind people where to find them! (Very low traffic, so not at all a
burden to stay signed on.)

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/

Reminds me, I should unload some of my old costumes. They will never ever 
fit me again...

--Robin


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Status: RO

Ann Catelli wrote:
> Now, my main sewing machine is a 1951 cast iron Singer
> monstrosity, but has run fine for 20 years in my
> ownership.  This machine finds the staple end of
> Gutermann three and four and five times in a spool! 
> Whereas good ol' Coats & Clark runs just fine.
>   

Likewise with my 20 year old Kenmore sewing machine.
> So, try sewing on your new machine with Gutermann, and
> if your machine sews poorly with it, even with
> different needles & such, try the recommended brand
> and see if it's an improvement.

Good advice.  Sewing machines seem prosaic, but they're really quite 
precise power tools; they have to have good engineering to handle such a 
thin thing (thread).  Sounds like some of the supercilious  repair 
people need to remember it's science, not black magic!

cv
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the suggestions.=0A=0AI chose the ultra because I had enough of =
it on hand, and the garment in question will see hard wear. I wouldn't trus=
t the ultra to hold without help under repeated beatings and heavy washing.=
 Also the motif has internal detail that was best served by sewing them on =
rather than painting. Also, given that this is an Anglo-Scandinavian fighti=
ng tunic, paint just doesn't seem right. ;-)=0AThe cone thread could very p=
ossibly be poly, I have no clue. Thinner is almost a definite possibility, =
however. I had replaced the needle, ran it with another fabric scrap, rethr=
eaded it, respun the bobbin, you name the troubleshooting, I did it. Nothin=
g worked. Ultimately, I just had to fight my way through having to clean th=
e needle and scrape it with my seam ripper once an inch or less, until the =
project was finished. The stitching isn't as perfect as I would prefer it, =
but I'm taking what I can get. Much to my delight, it's all but complete, I=
'm just hemming the monster now. Whew!=0AMy machine, a #1+, takes just abou=
t anything, short of metallic threads. Even with a metallic needle, it stil=
l eats it for breakfast. But everything else runs like a dream through it. =
I simply prefer Gutermann for the durability and smooth finish of the seam.=
 =0ANormally, I use Sullivan's Fray Stop Spray and a spray on adhesive comb=
ination to applique with. That Sullivan's is brilliant stuff, especially on=
 velvet cutwork. Spray the wrong side, let dry, and cut with an exacto blad=
e. It'll cut like paper all but laser clean.=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lio=
n rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, s=
eeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lio=
ns head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have bee=
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ing of knowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change=
 that. They can only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly r=
eshape you to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam. See h=
ow smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo!=
 Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Status: RO

And we use almost exclusively Coats & Clarks for all regular sewing, 
and have no problems at all.  I have a Janome 11000, and hubby has a 
Husqvarna Designer 1.

Embroidery is a different kettle....Sulky is OK but breaks a lot.  We 
both like Robison/Anton (R/A) rayon thread better, especially in 
metallics.  Sulky bobbin thread is icky.  It's fuzzy and tends to 
come up and show on the top of the embroidery.  The Janome brand 
bobbin thread that came with my machine was pretty good, but the last 
I used was Brother and it was great.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] Spin of Gutermann thread?
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Status: RO


The recent discussion reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask.

I was taught that for hand sewing the recommendation was to use a single strand of thread, not doubled over all the way, and that you should knot it at the end that was just cut off the spool.? This method would help prevent tangling and twisting as you would be sewing in a compatible direction to the twist of the thread (and I don't remember whether it is S or Z).? Recently someone mentioned that they thought Gutermann was spun in the opposite direction from most sewing thread, and she wondered if she should change knot position for this.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Nancy S. U.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO


A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is 
in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she 
would actually like to buy a copy.

Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and 
Grooming Practices 1000-1600

Authors: Daniela Turudich, Laurie J. Welch
Format: Paperback, 198 pages
Publication Date: June 2003
Publisher: Streamline Pr
ISBN-10: 193006408X
ISBN-13: 9781930064089


Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is 
> in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she 
> would actually like to buy a copy.
>
> Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and 
> Grooming Practices 1000-1600
Hmm, my first reply bounced...

The book was never published, as I recall, from posts on this list about 
it.  You might find more details by searching the archives.  It's a 
pity; many people here wanted to read it!

cv
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html

Amazon no longer carries it.

-----Original Message-----
A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is 
in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she 
would actually like to buy a copy.

Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and 
Grooming Practices 1000-1600

Authors: Daniela Turudich, Laurie J. Welch
Format: Paperback, 198 pages
Publication Date: June 2003
Publisher: Streamline Pr
ISBN-10: 193006408X
ISBN-13: 9781930064089


Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

At 12:33 31/07/2007, you wrote:
>http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html
>
>Amazon no longer carries it.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is
>in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she
>would actually like to buy a copy.
>
>Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and
>Grooming Practices 1000-1600
>
>Authors: Daniela Turudich, Laurie J. Welch
>Format: Paperback, 198 pages
>Publication Date: June 2003
>Publisher: Streamline Pr
>ISBN-10: 193006408X
>ISBN-13: 9781930064089

Thanks

I've passed the info on.

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spin of Gutermann thread?
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Status: RO

At 12:08 AM 7/31/2007, you wrote:

>The recent discussion reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask.
>
>I was taught that for hand sewing the recommendation was to use a 
>single strand of thread, not doubled over all the way, and that you 
>should knot it at the end that was just cut off the spool.? This 
>method would help prevent tangling and twisting as you would be 
>sewing in a compatible direction to the twist of the thread (and I 
>don't remember whether it is S or Z).? Recently someone mentioned 
>that they thought Gutermann was spun in the opposite direction from 
>most sewing thread, and she wondered if she should change knot 
>position for this.
>
>Any ideas?


Being left handed, this is opposite for me.  As for that, I really 
think that it depends on how you use your needle.  I find that I tend 
to end up with a slightly bent needle, no matter how I try not to, 
and my needle then always sits in my hand the same way.  Even then, 
there is an amount of twist that occurs from pulling the thread 
trough the cloth.

My suggestion would be to just try in, and see how the thread reacts 
and compensate, if needed.

Good luck to your friend,
Genie

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:15:28 -0500
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Status: RO

http://www.fetchbook.info/fwd_description/search_9781930064089.html
Alleged to have come out in 2003 others say 2004.
But you may be correct for when I scrolled down the with the first posted
url it said "can't find the book with any of their members."
The above url gives the impression that they may have it but don't hold your
breath.

De

-----Original Message-----
Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is
> in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she
> would actually like to buy a copy.
>
> Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and
> Grooming Practices 1000-1600
Hmm, my first reply bounced...

The book was never published, as I recall, from posts on this list about
it.  You might find more details by searching the archives.  It's a
pity; many people here wanted to read it!

cv


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

Last I heard, the right's to the books publication was in limbo because =
the original publisher went under....

On another hand, I just read a review  of The Artifice of Beauty =
(Tournaments Illuminated Issue 163) which looks promising for some =
similar material.  The reviewer says this among other things.  "Others, =
such as the utility of pomade for the hair or that bathing and washing =
were done with some regularity in pre-modern periods, may explode some =
cherished myths."

http://tinyurl.com/2wnwfu


 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spin of Gutermann thread?
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:37:01 +0200
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Status: RO

Thats excactly what happens to me two, also when i embroider. Its very very 
annoying because i have to replace the needles all the time.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Genie Barrett" <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spin of Gutermann thread?


> At 12:08 AM 7/31/2007, you wrote:
>
>>The recent discussion reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask.
>>
>>I was taught that for hand sewing the recommendation was to use a single 
>>strand of thread, not doubled over all the way, and that you should knot 
>>it at the end that was just cut off the spool.? This method would help 
>>prevent tangling and twisting as you would be sewing in a compatible 
>>direction to the twist of the thread (and I don't remember whether it is S 
>>or Z).? Recently someone mentioned that they thought Gutermann was spun in 
>>the opposite direction from most sewing thread, and she wondered if she 
>>should change knot position for this.
>>
>>Any ideas?
>
>
> Being left handed, this is opposite for me.  As for that, I really think 
> that it depends on how you use your needle.  I find that I tend to end up 
> with a slightly bent needle, no matter how I try not to, and my needle 
> then always sits in my hand the same way.  Even then, there is an amount 
> of twist that occurs from pulling the thread trough the cloth.
>
> My suggestion would be to just try in, and see how the thread reacts and 
> compensate, if needed.
>
> Good luck to your friend,
> Genie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

At 19:34 31/07/2007, you wrote:
>Last I heard, the right's to the books publication was in limbo 
>because the original publisher went under....
>
>On another hand, I just read a review  of The Artifice of Beauty 
>(Tournaments Illuminated Issue 163) which looks promising for some 
>similar material.  The reviewer says this among other 
>things.  "Others, such as the utility of pomade for the hair or that 
>bathing and washing were done with some regularity in pre-modern 
>periods, may explode some cherished myths."
>
>http://tinyurl.com/2wnwfu

I have this book, and it is great - very up to date research, and 
some interesting recipes. And Sally is a really nice person - makes 
plague rats for my cat (and others) to kill!!

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Updates to my Site
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Status: RO

I know a lady that is looking for the painting of a german frau who is wearing triangular shaped pieced bits that make up the different bands on her sleeves?  I am not well versed in German Ren, but I am guessing 1525-50.  Her dress is dark, IIRC with these distictive red and yellow  parts (kinda pennet shaped) sewn together to make the bands on the sleeves and perhaps some on the plasteron. (but I can not trust my memory).  Do you have that piccie?  Is there one of her whole dress?
This Honorable Lady would like to recreate the dress and wonders if the piece work on banded on the skirt too.
Thanks for your time and effort and your site ROCKS!
Lyonet
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	<8296995c0707301316o68f9fdd5s470d1bbbdd78d374@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:16:12 -0700
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Status: RO

I am still using the Gutermann, and so far, no problems.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell

Hey Sharon,

I have an old Kenmore (purchased new mid-1970s) and I use almost only
Gutermann thread. I never have any trouble. I've used the =
Metro-something
and had problems. I think it really depends on your machine, and I =
believe
the new ones are fussier than the old ones.
Heck, it ran on Coats & Clark for years and ran just fine.

LynnD


On 7/30/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is=20
> horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He=20
> recommended some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a=20
> "M"). Of course, I have 50 colors of Gutermann.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =

> On Behalf Of Kathy Page
> Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 12:37 PM
> To: Historical Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
>
> NOW I remember why I hate that stuff. I just had the weirdest thing=20
> happen while using it.
>
> I am appliqueing  a cotton/linen blend midweight fabric and used the=20
> ultra bond, the thread is Gutermann cotton thread. The first two=20
> appliques went
> fine- a total dream; I was using plain cone thread for that. I switch=20
> to the Gutermann, and all hell breaks loose. The satin stitch starts=20
> skipping stitches and the needle is gummed up with sticky goop. I have =

> to clean off my needle roughly once an inch. Nothing had changed from=20
> one pair to the other, except the thread and the weather. I was=20
> ripping my hair out trying to figure out what the problem was. The=20
> best we could come up with was the slight rise in humidity with the=20
> new weather front has caused the heat n bond to soften. I even tried=20
> to dry it with a hot iron, but that didn't work, either.
>
> Anyone else have this happen, and is there anything I can do to make=20
> it stop??
>
> Kathy
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =

> rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
> It's never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge.
> Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can=20
> only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you=20
> to their own image.
>
>
>
>
>
>       Get news delivered with the All new Yahoo! Mail.  Enjoy RSS=20
> feeds right on your Mail page. Start today at=20
> http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] German reformation era costume demonstrators
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Status: RO

Please forgive me if this is not an appropriate place to post this; I am =
new to the list (enjoying it thoroughly, I might add) I was inspired to =
post this by another post!
I am wondering where I might be able to contact individuals who might be =
interested in presenting=20
a program about German reformation era dress.  Ideally these persons =
would be located within a reasonable driving distance to Montgomery =
County, PA, which is adjacent to Philadephia. =20
I am the curator for a small museum in Pennsburg, Montgomery County that =
interprets the history of a small German Protestant group, the roots of =
which date to the Reformation.  I am always looking for ways to make the =
Reformation history come to life for our audiences who may never have =
the opportunity to visit the old world sites and museums.
All ideas are welcome. =20
Thank you for allowing me to interject!
Candace Perry
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center
www.schwenkfelder.com



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	<006a01c7d2ea$4050b600$bb00a8c0@anteckim>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thread, fusible webs
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:19:42 -0700
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Status: RO

The guy did mention it came from Mexico, so maybe he is behind the times (or
just wanted to sell me a lot of expensive thread). I didn't buy any though,
because my sewing box is full of Gutermann. I personally have never had any
trouble with it. I did have trouble with Dual Duty breaking, which is why I
switched to Gutermann in the first place. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kim Baird
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:43 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Thread, fusible webs

 
I've been reading the posts about stitching through Heat and Bond, and what
sewing machine salesmen have to say about threads.

There are MANY brands of fusible web on the market. Personally, I never use
Heat n Bond, even if I get some free. Nasty stuff. If you must use it for
sewing through, get the LIGHT version. The regular stuff is not meant to be
sewn. Check out other brands at your local fabric or quilt shop.

Another alternative is a temporary spray adhesive. I recommend Sulky KK2000.

Guterman is quality thread, and should not give you any trouble, UNLESS you
happen to have some of the spools that were made in Mexico. (The label will
say Mexico). They tried this for a while, and quickly dropped it--the thread
was very poor quality. That was several years ago.

Mettler makes polyester all-purpose thread (Metrosene) and cotton thread in
several weights. I like Mettler silk-finish cotton for both hand and machine
sewing. It has a smooth, shiny finish, but is completely cotton. They also
make a cotton embroidery thread, which is finer. It isn't strong enough for
constructing seams. Mettler makes polyester threads on large cones designed
for sergers also. They sell a line of cotton thread designated for hand
quilting, but I prefer to use the silk-finish cotton for hand quilting--it
looks nicer, and flows more smoothly.

J&P Coats also makes quality thread, I have no qualms about using it. If
your machine holds the spool horizontally, Coats spools may not work as well
(mine is vertical).

One thread that can give you problems in any brand is black. For some
reason, that is harder to manufacture without slubs. If you get a bad spool
of black, return it for exchange.

A well made sewing machine, in good working order, should NOT have any
trouble with Guterman thread--machine salesmen sometimes tell you these
things as an excuse when the machine they want to sell you isn't sewing
properly. (no flames from salespersons, please--I used to be one myself. I
know that not all of us are unscrupulous.)

Kim

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Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:10:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
LynnD, I wonder?

MaggiRos

--- FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:


> Lynn, If you are going to be at costume college this
> weekend, get hold of  
> Heather or Laura from Truly Victorian and tell them
> of your dilemma.  If  anyone 
> could help you with yardages, style suggestions,
> adaptations etc. it is  
> these wonderfully, creative women.  Then you will
> have your information for  
> shopping on Monday (I'm going too!) and won't
> proceed on guess work.
>  
> I'm sure your daughter will feel like a princess in
> her gown!
>  

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 18:21:32 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 360
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Status: RO

Amazon NEVER carried it.  I had it on order for over a year and they  
finally said it was Not Available.  I assume that the book never made  
it to publication.  (A friend told me that one of Turudich's other  
desperately-hard-to-find titles was pulled by the author because she  
wasn't satisfied with the first printing.)

Suzanne

On Jul 31, 2007, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> Date: July 31, 2007 6:33:57 AM CDT
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
>
>
> http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html
>
> Amazon no longer carries it.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is
> in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she
> would actually like to buy a copy.
>
> Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and
> Grooming Practices 1000-1600
>
> Authors: Daniela Turudich, Laurie J. Welch
> Format: Paperback, 198 pages
> Publication Date: June 2003
> Publisher: Streamline Pr
> ISBN-10: 193006408X
> ISBN-13: 9781930064089
>
>
> Suzi

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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Updates to my Site
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Status: RO

> I know a lady that is looking for the painting of a german frau who is wearing triangular shaped pieced bits that make up the different bands on her sleeves?  I am not well versed in German Ren, but I am guessing 1525-50.  Her dress is dark, IIRC with these distictive red and yellow  parts (kinda pennet shaped) sewn together to make the bands on the sleeves and perhaps some on the plasteron. (but I can not trust my memory).  Do you have that piccie?  Is there one of her whole dress?
> This Honorable Lady would like to recreate the dress and wonders if the piece work on banded on the skirt too.

I do actually have that image in my files:) And I can probably find it
again today. It's an unknown girl by Lucas Cranach and she is in a
really dark maroony-wine colour dress. On one sleeve she has some
pearl embroidery outlined in fine gold thread. She's on my "I would
really like to make that one day list, but I have other things first"
list;) I don't think it is full length, but I see no reason to not do
the hem the same way. It would look equally fine without it as well.

> Thanks for your time and effort and your site ROCKS!

Thank you:) It's going to undergo a cosmetic change as well, probably
incorporating my style sheets from my personal costume section but
altered to suit the nature of the topics.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

Thanks for posting this - I was under the impression that they were
never published, and I had my eye on several of these. Thanks!

Allison T.

On 7/31/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:33:57 -0500
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGECNJFAA.otsisto@socket.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
> http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html
>
> Amazon no longer carries it.
>
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Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 22:08:06 -0400
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
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Status: RO

Thanks for posting this - I was under the impression that they were
never published, and I had my eye on several of these. Thanks!

Allison T.

On 7/31/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:33:57 -0500
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGECNJFAA.otsisto@socket.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
> http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html
>
> Amazon no longer carries it.
>
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Status: RO

www.worldcat.org says that the British Library in Wetherby, W Yorkshire 
has it.  However, their library catalog denies it.  This sometimes 
happens when an item has been ordered, but not yet unpacked.  I'd give 
them a call.

The other locations so far are Long Beach, CA; Houston TX; Dunedin, NZ

This title must be fairly new, for so few locations to show on 
worldcat.  Kent State doesn't even have it yet!

Mary Piero Carey
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Status: RO

Quoting Mary + Doug Piero Carey <mary.doug@pierocarey.info>:

> www.worldcat.org says that the British Library in Wetherby, W Yorkshire
> has it.  However, their library catalog denies it.  This sometimes
> happens when an item has been ordered, but not yet unpacked.  I'd give
> them a call.
>
> The other locations so far are Long Beach, CA; Houston TX; Dunedin, NZ
>
> This title must be fairly new, for so few locations to show on
> worldcat.  Kent State doesn't even have it yet!
>

Apologies if I missed an earlier post -- I've had my head in a  
dissertation (I took it to the printers today! ...)

Has this actually been printed?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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Status: RO

I will be there, too. I will be one of Donna's
roommates.

Kimiko


--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend,
> who
> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
> LynnD, I wonder?
> 
> MaggiRos



       
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Status: RO

MaggiRos wrote:
> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
> LynnD, I wonder?
>   

Kevin and I will be there, hosting the hospitality suite on Sunday 
evening for all of you who are still there but don't care about the CGW 
Annual Meeting...

andy

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Status: RO

MaggiRos wrote:
> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
> LynnD, I wonder?
>   
<delurking>

I'll be there.  Taking beginning sewing/knitting/crocheting.  And you 
wonder why I lurk!  ;-)

</delurking>

Kathleen
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Status: RO

Andrew Trembley wrote:
> MaggiRos wrote:
>> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
>> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
>> LynnD, I wonder?
>>   
>
> Kevin and I will be there, hosting the hospitality suite on Sunday 
> evening for all of you who are still there but don't care about the 
> CGW Annual Meeting...

Oh, and look for us throughout the rest of the weekend in our lab coats. 
Shouldn't be hard to miss.

andy

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Status: RO

I'll be coming, first time to Costume College!

On 7/31/07, MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
> LynnD, I wonder?
>
> MaggiRos
>
> --- FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> > Lynn, If you are going to be at costume college this
> > weekend, get hold of
> > Heather or Laura from Truly Victorian and tell them
> > of your dilemma.  If  anyone
> > could help you with yardages, style suggestions,
> > adaptations etc. it is
> > these wonderfully, creative women.  Then you will
> > have your information for
> > shopping on Monday (I'm going too!) and won't
> > proceed on guess work.
> >
> > I'm sure your daughter will feel like a princess in
> > her gown!
> >
>
> ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
>     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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