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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200707311800.l6VI05ku071564@net.indra.com><46AFF094.7050603@pierocarey.info>
	<20070731225511.grj70c9k7y80088o@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:47:07 -0700
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Status: RO

No.=20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Susan B. Farmer<mailto:sfarmer@goldsword.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 7:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided


  Quoting Mary + Doug Piero Carey =
<mary.doug@pierocarey.info<mailto:mary.doug@pierocarey.info>>:

  > www.worldcat.org<http://www.worldcat.org/> says that the British =
Library in Wetherby, W Yorkshire
  > has it.  However, their library catalog denies it.  This sometimes
  > happens when an item has been ordered, but not yet unpacked.  I'd =
give
  > them a call.
  >
  > The other locations so far are Long Beach, CA; Houston TX; Dunedin, =
NZ
  >
  > This title must be fairly new, for so few locations to show on
  > worldcat.  Kent State doesn't even have it yet!
  >

  Apologies if I missed an earlier post -- I've had my head in a =20
  dissertation (I took it to the printers today! ...)

  Has this actually been printed?

  susan
  -----
  Susan Farmer
  sfarmer@goldsword.com<mailto:sfarmer@goldsword.com>
  University of Tennessee
  Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
  =
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/<http://www.goldsword.com/sfarm=
er/Trillium/>

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm so jealous!  I've been to Costume College about 5 times, but haven't be=
en able to go the last 2 years...  sigh... hopefully next year... Kathy=0A=
=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.c=
om>=0ATo: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>=0ASent: Tuesday, July 31=
, 2007 8:44:00 PM=0ASubject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College=0A=0A=0AAndrew Tr=
embley wrote:=0A> MaggiRos wrote:=0A>> Speaking of Costyume College this co=
ming weekend, who=0A>> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and=
=0A>> LynnD, I wonder?=0A>>   =0A>=0A> Kevin and I will be there, hosting t=
he hospitality suite on Sunday =0A> evening for all of you who are still th=
ere but don't care about the =0A> CGW Annual Meeting...=0A=0AOh, and look f=
or us throughout the rest of the weekend in our lab coats. =0AShouldn't be =
hard to miss.=0A=0Aandy=0A=0A______________________________________________=
_=0Ah-costume mailing list=0Ah-costume@mail.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail.indra.c=
om/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A       =0A___________________________=
_________________________________________________________=0AGot a little co=
uch potato? =0ACheck out fun summer activities for kids.=0Ahttp://search.ya=
hoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dsummer+activities+for+kids&cs=3Dbz 
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

This is only my second year, even though I have lived
about 9 miles from the site the entire time it's been
around! Shameful, I know.

For those unfamiliar with this event:
http://www.costumecollege.org/ccwhatis.asp

Still sewing,
MaggiRos


--- Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> I'm so jealous!  I've been to Costume College about
> 5 times, but haven't been able to go the last 2
> years...  sigh... hopefully next year... Kathy
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:44:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
> 
> 
> Andrew Trembley wrote:
> > MaggiRos wrote:
> >> Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend,
> who
> >> all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me
> and
> >> LynnD, I wonder?
> >>   
> >
> > Kevin and I will be there, hosting the hospitality
> suite on Sunday 
> > evening for all of you who are still there but
> don't care about the 
> > CGW Annual Meeting...
> 
> Oh, and look for us throughout the rest of the
> weekend in our lab coats. 
> Shouldn't be hard to miss.
> 
> andy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Got a little couch potato? 
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
>
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO

Susan asked if this has actually been printed. 

I can't tell.  Given that Worldcat can show books ordered but not yet 
processed into a library's collection, a book ordered before the presses 
roll could show up in a catalog After publication has been cancelled.  
Very annoying, but possible.  Removing unreceived books from the data 
stream has a Much lower priority than taking care of the new stuff, 
especially when you're still hoping that the item will get scheduled & 
finally arrive.  Most Tech Services depts. that I'm familiar with run 
such procedures once or twice a year, rather than monthly.  So, the lag 
can be quite long.  That's why I recommended calling the library 
involved.  From the messages in the digests since I wrote that, it 
doesn't look good!  Drat it, I was going to recommend purchase to my 
Scadian buddy in selection.  <mutter, grumble>  She was saying to me 
just last night that we had very little on the history of hairdressing!  
<sigh>

Mary Piero Carey

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Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 14:09:19 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided
In-Reply-To: <46B1C951.6050408@pierocarey.info>
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Status: RO

At 13:08 02/08/2007, you wrote:
>Susan asked if this has actually been printed.
>I can't tell.  Given that Worldcat can show books ordered but not 
>yet processed into a library's collection, a book ordered before the 
>presses roll could show up in a catalog After publication has been cancelled.
>Very annoying, but possible.  Removing unreceived books from the 
>data stream has a Much lower priority than taking care of the new 
>stuff, especially when you're still hoping that the item will get 
>scheduled & finally arrive.  Most Tech Services depts. that I'm 
>familiar with run such procedures once or twice a year, rather than 
>monthly.  So, the lag can be quite long.  That's why I recommended 
>calling the library involved.  From the messages in the digests 
>since I wrote that, it doesn't look good!  Drat it, I was going to 
>recommend purchase to my Scadian buddy in selection.  <mutter, 
>grumble>  She was saying to me just last night that we had very 
>little on the history of hairdressing!
><sigh>


I know it has been mentioned before, but "The Artifice of Beauty" by 
Sally Pointer is actually very handy.

http://www.play.com/Books/Books/4-/665654/-/Product.html?source=7995&engine=yahoo&keyword=the+artifice+of+beauty

I am sure there are American sites with this information.

Suzi

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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 13:46:02 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] Textiles in America
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Status: RO

Hi, all,
Probably like many of you, I ordered a copy of the reprint of Montgomery's _Textiles In America_ months ago. One of the copies I ordered from Amazon, which has kept me updated on delays, and last week asked me to approve a further delay until October in delivery. Today I got the notice that my copy has been shipped and will either be here next week, or in October. Has anyone else got word this book is now available? 
Thanks!
Lauren
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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT? Need a graph or chart
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Status: RO

Do any of you know of a website with free graphs/charts for needlework? =
I've done some searches, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet

I am looking for a graph or chart of a small Chinese-themed motif. I'm =
going to use it for needlepoint. The area is taller than wide (about =
3:1) so I was thinking crane (or possibly panda). Any type of animal or =
flower that would go nicely with bamboo, which frames the area currently =
occupied by a silhouette of a Junk.

Thanks!
Denise B
Iowa
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Status: RO


Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who
all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and
LynnD, I wonder?

MaggiRos

--- FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:

			OOH me me I'm going! Yea me me :-D

Beverly

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <891501.45974.qm@web52110.mail.re2.yahoo.com><003301c7d2e5$e47a6a00$0200a8c0@bobfamilyroom>
	<8FEE0D64-E991-4182-AB70-2084715DC348@bovil.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 13:32:45 -0700
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Status: RO

Can you get more specific about where to find this article? I get to the
site, but when I put in "microphotography", it has nothing.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 3:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell

On Jul 30, 2007, at 1:12 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is=20
> horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He=20
> recommended some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a=20
> "M"). Of course, I have 50 colors of Gutermann.

It's probably Mettler Metrosene polyester thread, or perhaps M=F6lnlycke
polyester thread. This is the first time, though, that I've heard bad =
things
about G=FCtermann thread.

There's a fun page at <http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/
aa102100a.htm> of microphotography of different threads. Metrosene,
M=F6lnlycke and G=FCtermann all look really good in the microphotography =
test.

andy_______________________________________________
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Status: RO


Do any of you know of a website with free graphs/charts for 
needlework? I've done some searches, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet

I am looking for a graph or chart of a small Chinese-themed motif. 
I'm going to use it for needlepoint. The area is taller than wide 
(about 3:1) so I was thinking crane (or possibly panda). Any type of 
animal or flower that would go nicely with bamboo, which frames the 
area currently occupied by a silhouette of a Junk.

Thanks!
Denise B


You know Dover has so many Chinese designs.  They often feature them 
in their free samples.  If you don't find what you want maybe you 
could somehow make your own using one of their designs.  Probably 
displaying my ignorance but it's an idea.

Bev

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From: Melissa Brown Muckart <gold@where.else.net.nz>
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Subject: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor
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Status: RO

Hello everyone,

I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation for 
the portrait on this page:

http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm

I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact information 
for the website itself nor anywhere on the site that gives credit to the 
artists for the portraits therein. I've googled until my eyes bled, but 
was unable to find the first portrait anywhere else, which leads me to 
think it may be a more modern piece (a learned friend suggested perhaps 
Victorian).

The dress in the above seems to be based on this portrait of Mary when 
she was married to Charles Brandon, (anon. 1516) here:

http://tudorhistory.org/groups/brandons.jpg

As I would like to recreate the dress as accurately as possible, I am 
trying to find out if the portrait in the top link is of the period or a 
more modern extrapolation.

While it is definitely a long shot, I'm hoping one of you have seen the 
first portrait and can tell me the artist and date of creation.

As the 2nd portrait was done in 1516, would the bottom half of the dress 
(as seen in the first portrait) be appropriate for the time). I'm oh so 
new to Tudor costuming and have a sneaking suspicion that the open 
fronted skirt comes into fashion a bit later... but I'm a complete 
newbie to this so that's based on nothing but having looked at a few 
dozen photos.

Any and all assistance is appreciated. If you haven't seen the first 
portrait but would like to brainstorm about possibilities for the bottom 
half, I'd love to hear your suggestions!

Thank you.

Best,

Melissa

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Status: RO

Dear List

I did not get into any of the limited classes at CC.  There are three 
or four general classes that I am really interested in though.  Since 
this will be my first time attending I was wondering if there is a 
room set aside where one can set up a machine and sew and then maybe 
get some help from the experts who might be passing by or help each 
other out with fitting , that sort of thing.  If not I am prepared to 
do some sewing in my room blissfully uninterrupted by phone, family 
or housework.  Are there ever any chances of places opening up in the 
limited classes?

Thanks

Bev.

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Status: RO

This is the link on my favorites, hope it's the same:

http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa102100a.htm


>From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
>Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 13:32:45 -0700
>
>Can you get more specific about where to find this article? I get to the
>site, but when I put in "microphotography", it has nothing.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
>Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 3:57 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
>
>On Jul 30, 2007, at 1:12 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> > I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is
> > horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He
> > recommended some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a
> > "M"). Of course, I have 50 colors of Gutermann.
>
>It's probably Mettler Metrosene polyester thread, or perhaps Mölnlycke
>polyester thread. This is the first time, though, that I've heard bad 
>things
>about Gütermann thread.
>
>There's a fun page at <http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/
>aa102100a.htm> of microphotography of different threads. Metrosene,
>Mölnlycke and Gütermann all look really good in the microphotography test.
>
>andy_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 15:24:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

According to all the details all over the registration
materials and web site, no waiting list is kept for
the limited classes.  (I don't know why, but I *think*
that may be changing next year.) Happily there's
plenty of other classes to keep you busy!

I seem to have read in the latest issue of Squeals
that there's going to be something called The Panic
Room where you can set up your machine in like-minded
company and decent light. Volunteers are supposed to
be around to give advice or commiserate, as required.
This should all be in the sign-in packet.

I'll be checking in on Friday sometime. Can't wait!

Maggie



--- Beverly Azizi <bazizi@uci.edu> wrote:

> Dear List
> 
> I did not get into any of the limited classes at CC.
>  There are three 
> or four general classes that I am really interested
> in though.  Since 
> this will be my first time attending I was wondering
> if there is a 
> room set aside where one can set up a machine and
> sew and then maybe 
> get some help from the experts who might be passing
> by or help each 
> other out with fitting , that sort of thing.  If not
> I am prepared to 
> do some sewing in my room blissfully uninterrupted
> by phone, family 
> or housework.  Are there ever any chances of places
> opening up in the 
> limited classes?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bev.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
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Status: RO


http=3A//sewing=2Eabout=2Ecom/library/weekly/aa102100a=2Ehtm

and page down to the bottom of the article=2E That=27s where the links to=

the microphotographs are=2E

kate
----- Original Message -----
From=3A Sharon Collier =3Csharon=40collierfam=2Ecom=3E
Date=3A Thursday=2C August 2=2C 2007 4=3A36 pm
Subject=3A RE=3A =5Bh-cost=5D Heat n Bond Hell
To=3A =27Historical Costume=27 =3Ch-costume=40indra=2Ecom=3E

=3E Can you get more specific about where to find this article=3F I get =

=3E to the
=3E site=2C but when I put in =22microphotography=22=2C it has nothing=2E=
 =

=3E =

=3E -----Original Message-----
=3E From=3A h-costume-bounces=40indra=2Ecom =5Bmailto=3Ah-costume-
=3E bounces=40indra=2Ecom=5D On
=3E Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
=3E Sent=3A Monday=2C July 30=2C 2007 3=3A57 PM
=3E To=3A Historical Costume
=3E Subject=3A Re=3A =5Bh-cost=5D Heat n Bond Hell
=3E =

=3E On Jul 30=2C 2007=2C at 1=3A12 PM=2C Sharon Collier wrote=3A
=3E =3E I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann =

=3E thread is =

=3E =3E horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine=2E He=
 =

=3E =3E recommended some thread (I don=27t remember the name=2C started w=
ith =

=3E a =

=3E =3E =22M=22)=2E Of course=2C I have 50 colors of Gutermann=2E
=3E =

=3E It=27s probably Mettler Metrosene polyester thread=2C or perhaps M=F6=
lnlycke
=3E polyester thread=2E This is the first time=2C though=2C that I=27ve h=
eard =

=3E bad things
=3E about G=FCtermann thread=2E
=3E =

=3E There=27s a fun page at =3Chttp=3A//sewing=2Eabout=2Ecom/library/week=
ly/
=3E aa102100a=2Ehtm=3E of microphotography of different threads=2E Metros=
ene=2C
=3E M=F6lnlycke and G=FCtermann all look really good in the =

=3E microphotography test=2E
=3E =

=3E andy=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
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=3E h-costume mailing list
=3E h-costume=40mail=2Eindra=2Ecom
=3E http=3A//mail=2Eindra=2Ecom/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
=3E =

=3E =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
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=3E h-costume mailing list
=3E h-costume=40mail=2Eindra=2Ecom
=3E http=3A//mail=2Eindra=2Ecom/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
=3E 
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread, fusible webs
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 18:40:31 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'll chime in in favor of G=FCtermann. I've found it completely =20
dependable and easy to work with, not to mention beautiful.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jul 31, 2007, at 3:19 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> The guy did mention it came from Mexico, so maybe he is behind the =20
> times (or
> just wanted to sell me a lot of expensive thread). I didn't buy any =20=

> though,
> because my sewing box is full of Gutermann. I personally have never =20=

> had any
> trouble with it. I did have trouble with Dual Duty breaking, which =20
> is why I
> switched to Gutermann in the first place.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-=20
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kim Baird
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:43 PM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: [h-cost] Thread, fusible webs
>
>
> I've been reading the posts about stitching through Heat and Bond, =20
> and what
> sewing machine salesmen have to say about threads.
>
> There are MANY brands of fusible web on the market. Personally, I =20
> never use
> Heat n Bond, even if I get some free. Nasty stuff. If you must use =20
> it for
> sewing through, get the LIGHT version. The regular stuff is not =20
> meant to be
> sewn. Check out other brands at your local fabric or quilt shop.
>
> Another alternative is a temporary spray adhesive. I recommend =20
> Sulky KK2000.
>
> Guterman is quality thread, and should not give you any trouble, =20
> UNLESS you
> happen to have some of the spools that were made in Mexico. (The =20
> label will
> say Mexico). They tried this for a while, and quickly dropped it--=20
> the thread
> was very poor quality. That was several years ago.
>
> Mettler makes polyester all-purpose thread (Metrosene) and cotton =20
> thread in
> several weights. I like Mettler silk-finish cotton for both hand =20
> and machine
> sewing. It has a smooth, shiny finish, but is completely cotton. =20
> They also
> make a cotton embroidery thread, which is finer. It isn't strong =20
> enough for
> constructing seams. Mettler makes polyester threads on large cones =20
> designed
> for sergers also. They sell a line of cotton thread designated for =20
> hand
> quilting, but I prefer to use the silk-finish cotton for hand =20
> quilting--it
> looks nicer, and flows more smoothly.
>
> J&P Coats also makes quality thread, I have no qualms about using =20
> it. If
> your machine holds the spool horizontally, Coats spools may not =20
> work as well
> (mine is vertical).
>
> One thread that can give you problems in any brand is black. For some
> reason, that is harder to manufacture without slubs. If you get a =20
> bad spool
> of black, return it for exchange.
>
> A well made sewing machine, in good working order, should NOT have any
> trouble with Guterman thread--machine salesmen sometimes tell you =20
> these
> things as an excuse when the machine they want to sell you isn't =20
> sewing
> properly. (no flames from salespersons, please--I used to be one =20
> myself. I
> know that not all of us are unscrupulous.)
>
> Kim
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: books on history of cosmetics
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Status: RO

"The Artifice of Beauty" is a great book!  Mine was a Christmas gift,  
but I know that they got it from Amazon.

Suzanne


> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Date: August 2, 2007 8:09:19 AM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided
>
>
> Mary wrote:
>> Susan asked if this has actually been printed.
>> I can't tell.  Given that Worldcat can show books ordered but not  
>> yet processed into a library's collection, a book ordered before  
>> the presses roll could show up in a catalog After publication has  
>> been cancelled.
>> Very annoying, but possible.  Removing unreceived books from the  
>> data stream has a Much lower priority than taking care of the new  
>> stuff, especially when you're still hoping that the item will get  
>> scheduled & finally arrive.  Most Tech Services depts. that I'm  
>> familiar with run such procedures once or twice a year, rather  
>> than monthly.  So, the lag can be quite long.  That's why I  
>> recommended calling the library involved.  From the messages in  
>> the digests since I wrote that, it doesn't look good!  Drat it, I  
>> was going to recommend purchase to my Scadian buddy in selection.   
>> <mutter, grumble>  She was saying to me just last night that we  
>> had very little on the history of hairdressing!
>> <sigh>
>
>
> I know it has been mentioned before, but "The Artifice of Beauty"  
> by Sally Pointer is actually very handy.
>
> http://www.play.com/Books/Books/4-/665654/-/Product.html? 
> source=7995&engine=yahoo&keyword=the+artifice+of+beauty
>
> I am sure there are American sites with this information.
>
> Suzi

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Status: RO

Thanks for all the replies, I found exactly what I needed.

Naturally, I had to tweak it a little, but it sure beats coming up with one 
from scratch!  :-)


Denise B
Iowa 

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Dressing for school
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 19:04:12 -0400
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Status: RO

Those of you who subscribe to the Chronicle of Higher Education will =20
perhaps have seen this article in this week's issue:
it begins,

> OBSERVER
>
> Dressing Literary History
>
> By AMY LEAL
>
> I don't want to see it, but I have to. On August 10, I will =20
> sheepishly pile into an overcrowded theater to see Becoming Jane, =20
> loosely adapted from Jon Spence's biographical study Becoming Jane =20
> Austen, even though I know Anne Hathaway isn't British and Tom =20
> Lefroy did not tussle with Austen in haystacks. That isn't what =20
> will pain me, though; it will most likely be the costumes.
> It is time for me to take my closet out of the closet: I am one of =20
> those Janeites you hear about who likes to make historically =20
> accurate clothing. I have suitcases ready for travels to places =20
> that no longer exist. Georgian bodices, Regency chemises, Victorian =20=

> "unmentionables," Edwardian walking skirts. I patronize Amazon =20
> Drygoods: Purveyors of Needed Items for the 19th Century Impression =20=

> as much as I do Amazon.com. I own more steel boning than the =20
> Marquis de Sade.
>
> =85I make clothing reproductions because I am fascinated with the =20
> "felt life" (to appropriate a Henry James term) of past eras. =85
It's an interesting and nicely written piece by a literature =20
professor, although h-cost List members might find some of her =20
generalizations irritating for one reason or another, particularly =20
the comments on corsets.

Here's the url:

http://chronicle.com/weekly/v53/i48/48b00501.htm

But access to the full article is restricted to Chronicle subscribers.

If you don't subscribe and would like to read the article, please =20
contact me off-list. I'll be planning what to wear to teach my =20
Shakespeare class--and my Dylan Thomas class!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melissa Brown Muckart" <gold@where.else.net.nz>
> As the 2nd portrait was done in 1516, would the bottom half of the dress 
> (as seen in the first portrait) be appropriate for the time). I'm oh so 
> new to Tudor costuming and have a sneaking suspicion that the open fronted 
> skirt comes into fashion a bit later... but I'm a complete newbie to this 
> so that's based on nothing but having looked at a few dozen photos.

The split-front skirt wasn't _common_ until later, but it did appear on very 
fashionable women (for example, Anne de Bretagne) this early and even 
earlier.  Mary was a famous beauty and a fashion icon, so I wouldn't be at 
all surprised to see her wearing it, especially after time in the court 
where A de B had worn it so recently.  Here's A de B in split skirts just a 
few years before:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/AdBreceivingHistoryOfBretagne.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1508AdeBbyJeanPerreal.jpg
(I have another dozen or so c1500 split skirt images on various people, if 
anyone is looking to document them.)

That said, I look at this painting with deep suspicion.  The part that was 
copied from the Brandon portrait looks like it could concievably have been 
done in the 16thC, but the trim along the bottom of the skirt looks 243 
different kinds of wrong for this time period.

At this time, the waist seam was not universal, though it showed up often 
enough that--given the habit of portrait sitters of putting their arms RIGHT 
THERE--it's generally a toss-up on any given portrait whether or not the 
sitter had one.  The few images from that decade that actually show the 
waist clearly show more gowns without visible waist seams, at least in the 
front; almost all had waist seams across the back. It's possible that some 
of the smooth-fronted gowns did have hidden waist seams across the front 
(probably around where the belt falls, i.e. sometimes a dropped waist) but 
the desired look is clearly that of no waist seam.

Here are some typical gowns of the French court, 1513-1517:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1513claudeoffrance.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1517queenclaudecrowned.jpg
I keep pointing to the French court, because even though Anne's earlier 
marriage was short, she went straight from it to the Brandon marriage, and 
so is likely to have been wearing French fashions for the wedding portrait.

The Brandon marriage portrait dress is slightly deceptive in terms of 
figuring out exactly what she's wearing.  First, because of the large amount 
of pearls--which may or may not have been on the actual dress, but were 
probably either added or exaggerated by the painter--and second because the 
undersleeves are the same color as the oversleeves.  The actual dress was 
probably much like this:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1500-25lieges.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/manuscripts.jpg (Simon Bening, c1515)
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/c1518portraitofawoman_circleofandreadelsarto.jpg 
(Looks Victorian, but was actually done by a visiting Italian, hence the 
different style--and yep, that looks like a split skirt to me too.)

-E House

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Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 21:43:37 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressing for school
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 8/2/2007 7:03:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

Those of  you who subscribe to the Chronicle of Higher Education will  
perhaps  have seen this article in this week's issue:
it begins,

>  OBSERVER
>
> Dressing Literary History


I don't know the whole story, but I understand it is supposed to be Jane  
Austen in 1795.  The promo photo I saw, with her in a high-waisted satin  evening 
gown and hair piled on her head, DOES NOT look 1795 to me--a good 10  years 
later, at the least, and more like 15.  
But I'll go see the  movie, like everyone else.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor
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Status: RO

Hi Melissa,

Brandon and Mary were married in February of 1515; most of the sources I
have date the original portrait (showing them both from the waist up) to
"shortly after their marriage", so your extrapolated portrait (love the
beading and pearls at the hem!) is a mid-fifteen-teens gown.  That may well
be the best you can do--unless someone can find where the original portrait
of Mary and Brandon is kept, and whether that museum or gallery has a full
provenance for it?

Good luck--and I wanna see pictures when you get your gown done!  :-)

Cheers,
Meli/Sharon

On 8/2/07, Melissa wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation for
> the portrait on this page:
>
> http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm
>
> I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact information
> for the website itself nor anywhere on the site that gives credit to the
> artists for the portraits therein. I've googled until my eyes bled, but
> was unable to find the first portrait anywhere else, which leads me to
> think it may be a more modern piece (a learned friend suggested perhaps
> Victorian).
>
> The dress in the above seems to be based on this portrait of Mary when
> she was married to Charles Brandon, (anon. 1516) here:
>
> http://tudorhistory.org/groups/brandons.jpg
>
> As I would like to recreate the dress as accurately as possible, I am
> trying to find out if the portrait in the top link is of the period or a
> more modern extrapolation.
>
> While it is definitely a long shot, I'm hoping one of you have seen the
> first portrait and can tell me the artist and date of creation.
>
> As the 2nd portrait was done in 1516, would the bottom half of the dress
> (as seen in the first portrait) be appropriate for the time). I'm oh so
> new to Tudor costuming and have a sneaking suspicion that the open
> fronted skirt comes into fashion a bit later... but I'm a complete
> newbie to this so that's based on nothing but having looked at a few
> dozen photos.
>
> Any and all assistance is appreciated. If you haven't seen the first
> portrait but would like to brainstorm about possibilities for the bottom
> half, I'd love to hear your suggestions!
>
> Thank you.
>
> Best,
>
> Melissa
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melissa Brown Muckart" <gold@where.else.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor


> Hello everyone,
>
> I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation for 
> the portrait on this page:
>
> http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm
>
> I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact information for 
> the website itself nor anywhere on the site that gives credit to the 
> artists for the portraits therein. I've googled until my eyes bled, but 
> was unable to find the first portrait anywhere else, which leads me to 
> think it may be a more modern piece (a learned friend suggested perhaps 
> Victorian).
>
I think this is probably Victorian looking at most of the other pictures 
listed nearby in this list of images 
http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/index.htm and the fact that 
images like this 
http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0279/0279_.htm image of Anne 
Boleyn (which the website clearly says "The painting on which this portrait 
is based is now known to show another Anne, a Queen of Hungary." other 
portraits e.g. Elizabeth of York, Catherine of Aragon and Catherine Howard 
also directly mention the original portraits they are based on) is painted 
on the same background I believe they are of the same date and therefore the 
image you're looking at is a 19th century (or later) copy, not a period 
image.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 09:09:51 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost]Help dating aortrait of Mary Tudor
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Status: RO

Melissa Brown Muckart wrote:

>I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation
for 
>the portrait on this page:

>http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm 

>I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact information

>for the website itself nor anywhere on the site that gives credit to
the 
>artists for the portraits therein. I've googled until my eyes bled,
but 
>was unable to find the first portrait anywhere else, which leads me to

>think it may be a more modern piece (a learned friend suggested
perhaps 
>Victorian).

Melissa,
As the website is "Explore Parliament" I'm pretty certain that the
portrait shown is one of the historical paintings in the Houses of
Parliament, so, yes, it is Victorian, evidently based on the double
portrait in your second URL.


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
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Just to let you know, Dressing Jane, a free quarterly e-magazine =
containing articles and news about fashion in the age of Jane Austen is =
now online!  The next edition will be published 10th August 2007.
While the e-magazine will focus on historical costuming dating from 1775 =
to 1817, articles and events of a similar nature, but related to other =
eras may also be included.  Each edition will contain a short article =
giving an overview of an item or aspect of fashion between 1775 and 1817 =
and step-by-step instructions on making that item.

To sign up, please go to the website at =
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk/dressingjane

I hope the information will be both useful and instructive.

Serena Dyer

http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
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Status: RO

Thanks to everyone who replied to my query about the Mary Tudor portrait.

Melissa

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Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 11:31:24 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> I am preparing to begin on my version of the gown shown in the Pelican
> portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, Nicholas Hilliard, circa 1574.   <snip>
> I have been contemplating whether to make this a trained gown or not,
> and if I do, should the underskirt also be trained to help with the
> flow of the over skirt?   The outer gown will be made with a fairly
> lightweight red-black shot silk and lined with a black silk satin that
> isn't very heavy either - with black velvet guards.   <snip>

>From a point of practicality, modern humans, even those used to
wearing & being around people wearing complicated clothes, are
completely oblivious to trains underfoot.  Back in Jan I was wearing
my gown with the 8" chopines & a 3' train.  Some child (about 9yrs)
literally walked up my train and brought me to my knees.  It's a red
dress.  You'd think they'd notice!

As a point historical fashion, they certainly are delightful to look
at, contemplate wear & make.  If only we could cure the obliviousness.
Sigh,
 --cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Gia Gavino <giagavino@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

The child was probably so enchanted and enthralled by the beauty of your gown maybe she thought she'd found the red carpet to costuming heaven?  
   
  I know my daughter at that age was looking at all the gorgeous gowns so intently that she didn't watch where she was stopping...usually on my trained gowns...
   
  Gia

Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
  > From: "Alexandria Doyle" 
> I am preparing to begin on my version of the gown shown in the Pelican
> portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, Nicholas Hilliard, circa 1574. 
> I have been contemplating whether to make this a trained gown or not,
> and if I do, should the underskirt also be trained to help with the
> flow of the over skirt? The outer gown will be made with a fairly
> lightweight red-black shot silk and lined with a black silk satin that
> isn't very heavy either - with black velvet guards. 

>From a point of practicality, modern humans, even those used to
wearing & being around people wearing complicated clothes, are
completely oblivious to trains underfoot. Back in Jan I was wearing
my gown with the 8" chopines & a 3' train. Some child (about 9yrs)
literally walked up my train and brought me to my knees. It's a red
dress. You'd think they'd notice!

As a point historical fashion, they certainly are delightful to look
at, contemplate wear & make. If only we could cure the obliviousness.
Sigh,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] need a wee bit o'help
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Status: RO

I am not good at drafting patterns and I asm have a fog. I want to achieve
this bodice.
http://www.homolaicus.com/arte/pittrici/madre.jpg

Any recommendations?
would using the Margo Anderson pattern work?

I plan on using Simplicity 7215
http://tinyurl.com/2vgyrp
for the camicia but will change the sleeves a bit.

This is the fabric I got for the dress.
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=D5369

http://tinyurl.com/yrr2dw
only 7 yds

Thank you,
De


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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

I am preparing to begin on my version of the gown shown in the Pelican
portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, Nicholas Hilliard, circa 1574.  The
final gown is intended to be for formal occasions, with all the bells
and whistles, so to speak.

I have been contemplating whether to make this a trained gown or not,
and if I do, should the underskirt also be trained to help with the
flow of the over skirt?   The outer gown will be made with a fairly
lightweight red-black shot silk and lined with a black silk satin that
isn't very heavy either - with black velvet guards.  The under skirt
is probably going to be a fairly stiff silk with machine embroidered
flowers on it - unless I change my mind again!

One of my problems on this decision is that much of my research was
done several years ago, and I have spent the time collecting the
"right" fabrics and working on other projects so that now that I'm
ready to start this one, I am having to recheck everything.  I have
this thought floating in my head that perhaps the train could be a
separate layer that goes over the skirt - they is a separate skirt -
but I'm not sure where that is coming from...


alex
-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor
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Status: RO

The background looks to me like tapestry, or it might be painted 
pannelling.  I've never visited the Houses of Parliament but I bet these 
are all along a corridor or gallery somewhere.

Jean

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Melissa Brown Muckart" 
> <gold@where.else.net.nz>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 7:18 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor
>
>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation 
>> for the portrait on this page:
>>
>> http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm
>>
>> I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact 
>> information for the website itself nor anywhere on the site that 
>> gives credit to the artists for the portraits therein. I've googled 
>> until my eyes bled, but was unable to find the first portrait 
>> anywhere else, which leads me to think it may be a more modern piece 
>> (a learned friend suggested perhaps Victorian).
>>
> I think this is probably Victorian looking at most of the other 
> pictures listed nearby in this list of images 
> http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/index.htm and the fact 
> that images like this 
> http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0279/0279_.htm image of 
> Anne Boleyn (which the website clearly says "The painting on which 
> this portrait is based is now known to show another Anne, a Queen of 
> Hungary." other portraits e.g. Elizabeth of York, Catherine of Aragon 
> and Catherine Howard also directly mention the original portraits they 
> are based on) is painted on the same background I believe they are of 
> the same date and therefore the image you're looking at is a 19th 
> century (or later) copy, not a period image.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to
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Status: RO

I am firmly of the belief that while no one looks you in the eye, 
they're certainly not watching where their feet are going either. I 
have a gown that has a very short train (about a foot). In walking 
very quickly and purposefully in a straight line and following three 
other people toward my destination through a light crowd, I had my 
train stepped on no less than 6 times. Not only do people not see 
trains, but they have no concept of personal space.

Connie

At 05:17 PM 8/4/2007, you wrote:

>The child was probably so enchanted and enthralled by the beauty of 
>your gown maybe she thought she'd found the red carpet to costuming heaven?
>
>   I know my daughter at that age was looking at all the gorgeous 
> gowns so intently that she didn't watch where she was 
> stopping...usually on my trained gowns...
>
>   Gia


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

That's interesting, because I have a couple of gowns with trains,
short ones as you've mentioned and the people that step on my train
are friends that are walking close to me.  I don't recall a train
being stepped upon by someone I don't know.  But I take an attitude
when I'm wearing such gowns, slow and graceful usually and people
generally clear a path for me.  And if I'm concern with the closeness
of the crowd, I'll pick up the train - well easy enough when it's an
overgown that is trained.

alex

On 8/5/07, Frau Anna Bleucher <bleucher@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I am firmly of the belief that while no one looks you in the eye,
> they're certainly not watching where their feet are going either. I
> have a gown that has a very short train (about a foot). In walking
> very quickly and purposefully in a straight line and following three
> other people toward my destination through a light crowd, I had my
> train stepped on no less than 6 times. Not only do people not see
> trains, but they have no concept of personal space.
>
> Connie
>
-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

Interesting statement that echoes a treatise on Elizabethan clothing
that I am reading right now.   Just as an observation,  I would think
that our idea of personal space has changed, and this in turn, is both
a reflection of our clothing and reflected by our clothing.
More musing on this is due.
Mari / Bridgette

<bleucher@earthlink.net> wrote:
>  Not only do people not see
> trains, but they have no concept of personal space.
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Status: RO

otsisto wrote:
> I am not good at drafting patterns and I asm have a fog. I want to achieve
> this bodice.
> http://www.homolaicus.com/arte/pittrici/madre.jpg
> 
> Any recommendations?
> would using the Margo Anderson pattern work?
> 

It should work as the basis for the bodice. You'll want to remove the 
shoulder straps and position them to sit very low and wide on the 
shoulders like that.

The shoulder puffs are probably decorative, and not part of the camicia 
under the dress.



Dawn

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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEFGJFAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO

> otsisto wrote:
>> I am not good at drafting patterns and I asm have a fog. I want to 
>> achieve
>> this bodice.
>> http://www.homolaicus.com/arte/pittrici/madre.jpg

Well, to make things much less clear, there are these patterns of women's 
gowns from a similar time & place:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/
Specifically:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f101V.html which is 
illustrated here:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f102R.html
and
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f94V.html which is 
illustrated here:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f94R.html

Now, the bottom two pieces on both patterns are almost certainly skirt 
pieces, with the piece on the right being upside down.  The top piece on the 
1st pattern is almost certainly the sleeve, which leaves the middle (on the 
1st pattern) and top (on the 2nd pattern) piece for the bodice.

The darn thing is nonsensical, though.  No matter how I turn it around 
mentally, it just refuses to coalesce into any useable bodice pattern piece. 
Maybe I'll have to actually cut one out of a piece of scrap fabric and 
experiment with it!  It looks more like a short sleeve puff, but the edges 
don't match up properly, and the 1st dress doesn't _have_ sleeve puffs.

-E House

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bodice  Re:  need a wee bit o'help
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Status: RO

I saw no bodice pattern included on either pattern
sketch/layout.

Looked like hanging or not full sleeves, and a smoking
pipe (;)), plus the skirt pieces as you have noted.

Ann in CT

--- E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:

> Well, to make things much less clear, there are
> these patterns of women's gowns from a similar time
> & place:
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/
> Specifically:
>
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f101V.html
>
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f94V.html
> 
> Now, the bottom two pieces on both patterns are
> almost certainly skirt 
> pieces, with the piece on the right being upside
> down.  The top piece on the 
> 1st pattern is almost certainly the sleeve, which
> leaves the middle (on the 
> 1st pattern) and top (on the 2nd pattern) piece for
> the bodice.
> 
> The darn thing is nonsensical, though.  No matter
> how I turn it around 
> mentally, it just refuses to coalesce into any
> useable bodice pattern piece. 
> Maybe I'll have to actually cut one out of a piece
> of scrap fabric and 
> experiment with it!  It looks more like a short
> sleeve puff, but the edges 
> don't match up properly, and the 1st dress doesn't
> _have_ sleeve puffs.
> 
> -E House



       
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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 11:23:32 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Aug 5, 2007, at 5:46 AM, Frau Anna Bleucher wrote:

> I am firmly of the belief that while no one looks you in the eye,  
> they're certainly not watching where their feet are going either. I  
> have a gown that has a very short train (about a foot). In walking  
> very quickly and purposefully in a straight line and following  
> three other people toward my destination through a light crowd, I  
> had my train stepped on no less than 6 times. Not only do people  
> not see trains, but they have no concept of personal space.

If I may interject an anthropological note ... "personal space" is an  
_extremely_ culture-dependent concept.  Everyone has a concept of  
personal space; they may simply have a very different one from the  
one you or I is used to.  And even within a culture, personal space  
is highly context-dependent.  A distance that would be unthinkable  
when a second person sits down on an otherwise-empty park bench is  
perfectly acceptable in a crowded elevator.  When it comes to  
costuming and trains, I think there are several issues coming in that  
can be problematic.  We live modernly in a culture where clothing  
trailing on the ground is an accidental fault of which the wearer  
ought to be warned.  So our ingrained concepts of personal space  
really have no _reason_ to take trailing clothing into account.  And  
very often the occasions where we are wearing historic costumes are  
of the "socializing with friends" type, where the default personal  
space is  likely to be relatively short.

It's quite possible (likely?) that in a historic culture where  
someone would be wearing a trained gown, both the nature of the event- 
circumstance and the social standing of the person wearing the gown  
would result in an expected personal space distance that would make  
the train non-problematic.  (Not meaning to pick on your example, but  
how likely is it that an Elizabethan lady who was wearing a trained  
gown would be "walking very quickly and purposefully ... following  
other people ... through a light crowd"?  As opposed to moving in a  
formal and stately manner in the presence of people of lesser rank  
whose attention would be focused on her by default?)

Heather

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From: Naergilien - Sabine Pothmann <naergilien@yahoo.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

Hi Alexandria, 

> I am preparing to begin on my version of the gown
> shown in the Pelican portrait of Queen Elizabeth I,
> Nicholas Hilliard, circa 1574.  (...) 
> I have been contemplating whether to make this a
> trained gown or not, (...)

I have already made the 'Pelican' portrait gown; see
my site here: 
http://www.naergilien.info/pelicandiary/index.htm
where I have published a rather large dress diary for
the gown I made. I didn't train my skirts; first due
to the lack of fabric and second I think it's more
comfortable this way ;-)

> One of my problems on this decision is that much of
> my research was done several years ago, and I have
> spent the time collecting the "right" fabrics and
> working on other projects so that now that I'm
> ready to start this one, I am having to recheck
> everything.

Perhaps my dress diary can help you a bit. The making
of this gown took me five months; during that time I
have constantly written that diary with all thoughts I
had, so maybe it can be of use to you. Might be a lot
to read, but will probably give you some ideas :-)

Best wishes, 
Sabine


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John Garden" <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown


>I am 5' 2" and extremely curvy, or should I say bottom heavy?!
>
the best term I ever heard was 'an hourglass with a bit more sand at the 
bottom' at 5' 10" I don't qualify as a pocket Venus but I thought it was a 
fabulous way to describe someone like me who isn't truly pear shaped (the 
standard definition of pear shaped usually includes a small bust, which I 
don't qualify for) but has more hip than bust.
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO

Hi all! 

Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) :-D
This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be able
to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?

Thanks!
Arlys
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO


On Mon, 6 Aug 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
> winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) :-D
> This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be
> able to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?

The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress
changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your
particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 13:17:30 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO

Not really. We do medieval and Ren music from England, Italy, France, and
Spain, so it's more of a general look we're aiming for. Just nothing that
covers the ears though.

Thanks! :-)

Arlys

 
> The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress
> changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your
> particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Status: RO

Elizabeth,

I heard one this weekend...referring to a figure: an hourglass running out 
of time.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:58:46 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
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Status: RO

Sabine

That's for the site, it was interesting to see how you tackled various
elements.  Most of the gown I have worked out, such as the bodice and
sleeve rolls that I drafted and made into a simpler gown.  -the way I
did the sleeve rolls was to make them a roll around the arm but
included a diamond shaped gusset under the arm that was hand sewn to
the bodice - much as you would in the smock underarm seam.  This
allows the rolls to sit off the points of the shoulder as seen in the
original portrait.  I have found that the sleeves and partlet
underneath need to be "laced"  together to keep everything together,
and also the rolled sleeves is lined with linen that onto either linen
or velvet- my two trial sleeve types create a kind of velcro to help
hold the rolls up where they need to be.

This version of the gown isn't intended to be an exact replica, since
I plan to couch gold cord knots on velvet guards interspersed with
embroidered, appliqued symbols of friends and family.  I'm just trying
to figure out if I should do the train - which I don't have trouble
walking in - my thought there is that the train will show off the
embroidery work.  It's not like this is going to be an everyday event
gown.  But then again, would I get more use of the gown without the
train?  And just how likely was this style of gown to have had the
train... will have to look through the books tonight

thanks again
alex

On 8/5/07, Naergilien - Sabine Pothmann <naergilien@yahoo.de> wrote:

> I have already made the 'Pelican' portrait gown; see
> my site here:
> http://www.naergilien.info/pelicandiary/index.htm
>-)
>
> Best wishes,
> Sabine
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Book: The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant
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Status: RO

The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant is a book I am thinking of
purchasing but it is over 40.00 where I am looking at before the
discount.

Does anyone have this book? What do you think of her viewpoints
since she is actually working with the garments instead of the
theory of the garment?

Chiara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book: The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant
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Status: RO

I have a copy, but it's been several years since I read it.

Beth

At 01:01 PM 8/6/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 10:30:04 -0500 (CDT)
>From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
>
>The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant is a book I am thinking of
>purchasing but it is over 40.00 where I am looking at before the
>discount.
>
>Does anyone have this book? What do you think of her viewpoints
>since she is actually working with the garments instead of the
>theory of the garment?
>
>Chiara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO

How about, say, 1450 give or take 10 years? or so...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@netherton.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses


> 
> On Mon, 6 Aug 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
>> Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
>> winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) :-D
>> This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be
>> able to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?
> 
> The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress
> changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your
> particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO

A really easy one is a tube stuffed  and with a wire through the middle. You
can shape the wire at center front to a point or curve the side up a bit.
Add a scarf, either attached center front or just from the back. Not
necessarily completely period, but gives the right "look" easily. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses

Not really. We do medieval and Ren music from England, Italy, France, and
Spain, so it's more of a general look we're aiming for. Just nothing that
covers the ears though.

Thanks! :-)

Arlys

 
> The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress 
> changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your 
> particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <Cley@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses


> Hi all!
>
> Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
> winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) :-D
> This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be able
> to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?
>
> Thanks!
> Arlys

What about a veil, it's really hard to get much simpler and a square of 
linen is one of the most useful and versatile accessories ever invented if 
you're doing any sort of work (a square of linen and tucked into your belt 
and becomes an apron, or a dishcloth, or a napkin or a baby's bib etc. of 
course you don't want to take use the one you're wearing on your head for 
this but if you make a couple you'll be amazed at the number of times you 
find a use for it) and it's easy to change the class impression simply by 
draping the veil differently (e.g. the peasants in the Tres Riches Heures 
typically wrap it round their heads like a turban and the upper classes wear 
it long and flowing).
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:01:49 -0400
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Status: RO

Well, Boticelli's PRIMAVERA is 1482, so a bit late, but why not go  
with a floral wreath anyway? For winter concerts you could use winter  
greenery wih accents of berries and colder-weather flowers like small  
chrysanthemums.... For spring (if you wear the GFDs that late into  
the year) of course there are beautiful early-spring flowers....Very  
festive, very pretty...or is that more "fantasy" than the impression  
you want to convey?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 6, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Brangwyne wrote:

> How about, say, 1450 give or take 10 years? or so...
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Netherton"  
> <robin@netherton.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
>
>
>> On Mon, 6 Aug 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
>>> Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
>>> winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series,  
>>> Robin!) :-D
>>> This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be
>>> able to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?
>> The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress
>> changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your
>> particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?
>> --Robin
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Apart from the padded roll Sharon suggested, or a foofy feathered hat like 
Ms April from the Tres Riche Heures, you're going to run into problems 
finding some commonly worn head covering that _doesn't_ cover the ears!  But 
if all the members of your group have longish hair, you could go for the 
maiden look, with an uncovered head and nicely braided hair.

If you go that route, I think your best bet would be this sort of thing:
http://snipurl.com/1p9xy
http://www.nd.edu/~medvllib/daylife/tac1995/79v-1L.jpg
http://www.godecookery.com/tacuin/tacuin22.htm
where a braid on each side of the back wraps around to the front and over 
the top-front of the head, sort of like a headband; the ends are tucked in. 
For very long hair, you can cross the braids in back before wrapping them, 
which is probably more accurate.  The style can be done even with shortish 
hair, though, if you french braid each side from the back to the front. In 
fact, you don't need to braid it at all; just wrap it:
http://www.encyclopedie-universelle.com/images/abricot-tacuinum-sanitatis-codex-vienne.jpg
It's more of a stereotypically Italian look, at least for the early 15thC, 
but later in the 15thC pops up with relative frequency around the western 
part of the continent.

-E House 

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 07:20:56 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
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Status: RO

Thank you for all the suggestions, folks! Wow, I knew I'd come to the
right place! :-)

Regarding turbans--what size of cloth do you need? What would have been
used for turbans? And how do you wrap them?

Our GFD's are designed for cooler weather--the fall/winter gigs. Most of
the group is in wool. Because I'm allergic to wool, mine is a heavy
cotton twill lined with linen.

If you'ld like to see others, the ladies who made them can be found at
www.gotgarb.com .

Arlys

On Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:27:20 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole"
<ewalpole@tpg.com.au> writes:
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Cc: <Cley@juno.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:03 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses
> 
> 
> > Hi all!
> >
> > Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for 
> our
> > winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) 
> :-D
> > This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be 
> able
> > to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Arlys
> 
> What about a veil, it's really hard to get much simpler and a square 
> of 
> linen is one of the most useful and versatile accessories ever 
> invented if 
> you're doing any sort of work (a square of linen and tucked into 
> your belt 
> and becomes an apron, or a dishcloth, or a napkin or a baby's bib 
> etc. of 
> course you don't want to take use the one you're wearing on your 
> head for 
> this but if you make a couple you'll be amazed at the number of 
> times you 
> find a use for it) and it's easy to change the class impression 
> simply by 
> draping the veil differently (e.g. the peasants in the Tres Riches 
> Heures 
> typically wrap it round their heads like a turban and the upper 
> classes wear 
> it long and flowing).
> HTH
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Tarrant's "The Development of Costume"
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Status: RO

This is part of a series published by "The Heritage: Care- 
Preservation-Management" programme in the UK, aimed at museum  
professionals.  I find it a very useful introduction to the study of  
dress -- or as the author says, "Why people wear clothes," -- for  
both fashion history and museum practice classes.  You may already  
know much of this information, but here it's presented in a well- 
written, well-organised single package with excellent illustrations.   
Tarrant writes that "The theme of the book is the structure of  
western European dress," and she starts with fibres and looms and  
moves on through construction techniques and shaping, with separate  
chapters for women's and men's styles from the 16th century to the  
late 20th century, plus some useful bits about haute couture and  
ready-made clothes.  There are 2 brief chapters on museum display at  
the end.  There's also a good bibliography (still useful in spite of  
being 13 years out of date).  I think it's worth the $42 [at  
Amazon.com], even for a paperback.

The publisher's blurb says, "Clothing is the outward and visible sign  
of taste, discrimination, social attitudes and status.  ...  What  
then does clothing 'mean', and how should it be understood?  Naomi  
Tarrant answers the question not so much from an abstract theory but  
from the physical reality of the clothes themselves."  That's  
probably as good a summary as anything I can tell you!

Suzanne


> From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
> Date: August 6, 2007 10:30:04 AM CDT
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Book: The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant
>
>
> The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant is a book I am thinking of
> purchasing but it is over 40.00 where I am looking at before the
> discount.
>
> Does anyone have this book? What do you think of her viewpoints
> since she is actually working with the garments instead of the
> theory of the garment?
>
> Chiara

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E House wrote:  A bunch of great links.

I have some pictures and thoughts about  related hairstyles at:
http://www.virtue.to/articles/crespinette.html
http://www.virtue.to/articles/easy_cauls.html

Includes some costumery level construction ideas.  I know there are 
other websites out there with other bumps-on-the-side styles.

cv
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I changed email addresses and forgot to move my account with h-costume,
please add me to the list
Ann Morton

-- 
"If I were to wish for anything, I should...wish...for the passionate sense
of the potential-for the eye, ever young and ardent, sees the possible"
-Soren Kierkegaard
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Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 18:27:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] join
In-Reply-To: <d264ccd60708081805u19fdc6fn1047d9a773d102d4@mail.gmail.com
 >
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At 06:05 PM 8/8/2007, you wrote:
>I changed email addresses and forgot to move my account with h-costume,
>please add me to the list
>Ann Morton
>
>--
>"If I were to wish for anything, I should...wish...for the passionate sense
>of the potential-for the eye, ever young and ardent, sees the possible"
>-Soren Kierkegaard
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Evidently you managed to get on the list with your new email.  Looks 
like everything is fine.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] In print or not
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In reference to the recent discussions re: whether the Daniela
Turudich books were ever printed, I emailed a friend of mine who works
as a library cataloger in Canada and she sent me the following
regarding how to tell if a book listed is really in print or not -
library listings aren't always reliable, neither are vendors.

Allison T.

_______________

Agreed that WorldCat is not a reliable source ... some libraries
suppress on-order information and only let a book show in the public
catalogue, but the majority display their on-order titles; these can
be ordered anywhere from a month to a couple of years before
publication, depending on how early publication is announced (and
libraries often get promo info long before the general public does).
And, despite its name, WorldCat only accesses customers of the OCLC
cataloguing service, and not all of those connect correctly (we use it
occasionally at work, when our regular and more reliable sources let
us down).

Vendors are also not your best source of what is actually in print,
especially where specialty publications are concerned.  Out of the
palaeontology books I've been mentioning on LJ lately, only one title
was listed as in-print/available by the usual big online vendors ...
if I'd trusted them, I would have been sorely disappointed.

Your best source is the publisher's own site, if you know who that is
(this is how I confirmed the true availability of my books ... I've
added a ton of publisher site links to my oddities website, so check
there is you've got a publisher) ... most list their forthcoming
titles with projected publication dates, as well as their current
catalogue.  Another good source is the author's own website if they
have one ... they'll definitely be promoting their latest and
upcoming.

If no author site and you don't know the publisher, second best source
for you is the Library of Congress ... if the book is listed in there,
then open the record, click on the "marc view" tab at the top.  The
fields of the catalogue record are the set of numbers down the
lefthand side.  See if the record has a field numbered 263 ... the
data in that one is the projected publication month and year provided
by the publisher (the publisher name is in field 260, so you can use
that as your pointer to the publisher's own page).  If there's no 263
and the 300 field has the actual number of pages filled in, then the
book is, or has been, in print.  If not in LC, check the national
library for the country of publication ... they all use the marc
system, so the field 263 rule applies to all.

If you're striking out on all this, there's the "last resort" Google
technique that I teach in my cataloguing cheat workshop.

Go to Google homepage and click on the "advanced search" option to the
right of the search box.  In the Advanced Google, type the main title
of the book into the phrase box (the second one on the screen), and
the author's surname into the "with all of the words" box (the first
one on the screen) ... if the author's given name is distinctive, type
that into this box as well.  Hit search.  This should cough up some
leads to publisher, distributors, libraries that have it on order
(which will at least net you the publisher name, so you can then track
their site down).  NOTE:  if the book title is single word or
"ordinary", e.g. just called "Fashion"or "Psychology", reverse the
procedure ... title in the first box and entire author name in correct
order in the second box.
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Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on  
vacation???
 
[I hope so. Have fun y'all!]



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 00:18:55 +0100
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Does anyone know if the 3635 and 3637 patterns will ever be available in =
the UK?

Thanks

Serena
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 18:32:15 -0500
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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Hey there...

It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on
vacation.  There is a very large national historic-ish camp out
happening this week.  Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the
moment.  But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping.

:>
Mari / Bridgette

On 8/10/07, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
> Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on
> vacation???
>
> [I hope so. Have fun y'all!]
>
>
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 16:32:22 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity Patterns
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I'd contact Simplicity if I were you. This is the webpage for
contacting them outside the US.

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=international.html

That page says that product availability outside the US may be
different than wah appears on their website and you should email them
with questions.

Best of luck, Serena,

LynnD

On 8/10/07, Serena Dyer <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk> wrote:
> Does anyone know if the 3635 and 3637 patterns will ever be available in the UK?
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Where are you Serena?  I will be in Europe in September, I could buy =
them for you and send them.  If you are in Germany, I might even be able =
to hand deliver!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Serena Dyer<mailto:serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>=20
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:18 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity Patterns


  Does anyone know if the 3635 and 3637 patterns will ever be available =
in the UK?

  Thanks

  Serena
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
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Last minute vacationing before school starts.

-----Original Message-----
Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on  
vacation???
 
[I hope so. Have fun y'all!]



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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 00:30:44 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Just a test
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We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain! 
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Brangwyne
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test


yeah, but tomorrow/today is the last day of that lovely camp.

Starr


> Hey there...
> 
> It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on
> vacation.  There is a very large national historic-ish camp out
> happening this week.  Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the
> moment.  But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping.
> 
> :>
> Mari / Bridgette
> 
> On 8/10/07, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>> Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on
>> vacation???
>>
>> [I hope so. Have fun y'all!]
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Brangwyne" <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <cdf.163f86ce.33ee4243@aol.com>
	<72adc2660708101632r71023d8ifbf3ef3bad3bdcb1@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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yeah, but tomorrow/today is the last day of that lovely camp.

Starr


> Hey there...
> 
> It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on
> vacation.  There is a very large national historic-ish camp out
> happening this week.  Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the
> moment.  But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping.
> 
> :>
> Mari / Bridgette
> 
> On 8/10/07, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>> Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on
>> vacation???
>>
>> [I hope so. Have fun y'all!]
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 07:45:36 -0500
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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For those of us Pennsic Starved...  tell, tell, tell... Of course, on
topic things...  :>
Mari / Bridgette

On 8/10/07, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
> We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain!
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Brangwyne
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:58 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
>
>
> yeah, but tomorrow/today is the last day of that lovely camp.
>
> Starr
>
>
> > Hey there...
> >
> > It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on
> > vacation.  There is a very large national historic-ish camp out
> > happening this week.  Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the
> > moment.  But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping.
> >
> > :>
> > Mari / Bridgette
> >
> > On 8/10/07, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
> >> Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on
> >> vacation???
> >>
> >> [I hope so. Have fun y'all!]
> >>
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dear All

I've been invited to a 1927 ball and my most modern gown is 1890!
I'm desperately trying to find out what a 35-year old mother of 4 would have
worn - and I'm the 'hourglass nearly running out" figure (Size 16 up top and
2X at the hips, plus only 155cm tall)! Not 1927-ish at all!!! The only
patterns in my collection are the Sensibility range (with titanic era dress
and 1914/15 dress) and
Wedding gown 304: http://www.pastpatterns.com/304.html
Dress 502: http://www.pastpatterns.com/502.html

I only have two weeks to make something so can't buy a new pattern.

Please can anybody help me out of this dilemma?

Thanks, Aylwen



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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In a message dated 8/11/2007 9:35:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
garden@netspeed.com.au writes:

Please  can anybody help me out of this dilemma?



*****************
 
20's gowns are structureless and you can make one in no time. The secret is  
finding a great fabric. I'd splurge on something beaded and sheer and make a  
simple silk slip with straps for underneath. I'd also forget any hip  emphasis 
and do a draped sheath with no belt or pleats or that kind of thing at  the 
hips. Do a straight sheath of some amazing fabric draped at low neck...a  cowl 
dipping in back maybe?  Hem it to just below the knee....maybe inset a  bias 
diamond shaped godet on each side with the top point starting at the hip  and 
the bottom just missing the floor. Something like that.
 
Don't forget long beads, long earrings and a beaded fringed purse!
 
I have a paper pattern from 1926 [a very small size] that I made up for a  
size 12 and it looked great. It's a sheath with 3 long very shallow  darts 
coming from the side seams. They are parallel and about an inch apart  and the 
upper one starts about waist  level and goes to about bust  point. The skirt is a 
circle and to just below the knee. It is attached at a low  waist that dips in 
a rounded curve CF. A very lovely line especially with the  circle skirt. I 
could fax you a drawing and diagram. It's very simple and you  could no doubt 
figure it out.
 
Check Butterick vintage patterns for a dress.... or something to rework how  
you like. Remember.... start with a killer fabric.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 12:33:15 +1000
From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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Okay, let's look at it from a costume design point of view that, luckily, 
takes into account your existing 1910+ patterns:

In 1927, a 34 year-old would have been teens and twenties around the time of 
the Titanic-era stuff you have and would have an affinity with that fashion.

Grab some 1920 lingerie catalogues to get the underlying shape and adapt one 
of the patterns to that and your own shape;

Add some fringe, lace, brooches and other jewels as required; and

Fix your hair...most people will be looking at your head (sightlines in the 
room and, hell, that is the way you have conversations) so a period hairstyle 
will work wonders to get the look.

I hope this helps at least to get it going,

-C.
 

> I've been invited to a 1927 ball> I'm desperately trying to find out what a 
35-year old mother of 4 would have wornThe only
> patterns in my collection are the Sensibility range (with titanic era dress
> and 1914/15 dress) and


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From: A Gardiner-Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 13:07:29 +1000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Titanic era is something that would suit my figure better so I'll try  
that. I've also got the old simplicity titanic patterns - can anyone  
remember the negatives from those? Wondering which will be quicker -  
Sensibility or the Simplicity.
Cheers, and thanks, Aylwen


On 12/08/2007, at 12:33 PM, stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:

> Okay, let's look at it from a costume design point of view that,  
> luckily,
> takes into account your existing 1910+ patterns:
>
> In 1927, a 34 year-old would have been teens and twenties around  
> the time of
> the Titanic-era stuff you have and would have an affinity with that  
> fashion.
>
> Grab some 1920 lingerie catalogues to get the underlying shape and  
> adapt one
> of the patterns to that and your own shape;
>
> Add some fringe, lace, brooches and other jewels as required; and
>
> Fix your hair...most people will be looking at your head  
> (sightlines in the
> room and, hell, that is the way you have conversations) so a period  
> hairstyle
> will work wonders to get the look.
>
> I hope this helps at least to get it going,
>
> -C.
>
>
>> I've been invited to a 1927 ball> I'm desperately trying to find  
>> out what a
> 35-year old mother of 4 would have wornThe only
>> patterns in my collection are the Sensibility range (with titanic  
>> era dress
>> and 1914/15 dress) and
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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> Check Butterick vintage patterns for a dress.... or something to rework 
> how
> you like. Remember.... start with a killer fabric.
>
that reminds me Vogue has a late 1920s pattern 
http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2535.htm?tab=out_of_print/vintage_vogue&page=1 
it's marked out of print but if it's only recently out of print it might 
still be available here in the southern hemisphere.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> This link has a picture of the Vogue tag up in the left hand corner.  Anyone remember when you used to buy these patterns, they would give you a really nice woven tag/label?  Anyone know what happened to that practice?
> 

My guess is it got discontinued due to cost.


Dawn

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This link has a picture of the Vogue tag up in the left hand corner.  =
Anyone remember when you used to buy these patterns, they would give you =
a really nice woven tag/label?  Anyone know what happened to that =
practice?

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Elizabeth Walpole<mailto:ewalpole@tpg.com.au>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 8:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit

  that reminds me Vogue has a late 1920s pattern=20
  =
http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2535.htm?tab=3Dout_of_print/vintage_vo=
gue&page=3D1<http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2535.htm?tab=3Dout_of_pri=
nt/vintage_vogue&page=3D1>=20
  it's marked out of print but if it's only recently out of print it =
might=20
  still be available here in the southern hemisphere.
  Elizabeth

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Some extant garments for ideas.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/1920s_to_1930s.htm
If you click on the pictures, it will take you to a site with more details
of the dress/item.

more extants
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6011.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4484.htm

this would have a slip under it. :)
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4447.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4492.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4702.htm


De


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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Not necessarily there were those of well to do families that kept up with
the fashions of the time. For the Titanic era you are looking at the 1910s,
specifically 1912. There is at least seven years (if not more)of a fashion
change, so I do not believe that she would be wearing something from the
1912s at a 1927 ball.

De

-----Original Message-----
In 1927, a 34 year-old would have been teens and twenties around the time of
the Titanic-era stuff you have and would have an affinity with that fashion.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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In a message dated 8/12/2007 5:16:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

so I do  not believe that she would be wearing something from the
1912's at a 1927  ball.



*******************
 
Exactly! Especially considering the era. The style hasn't just  
changed...it's been exploded out of the water! It's a whole different  philosophy. And to a 
ball? This is not the 1970's yet, y'know. In 1927 you wore  a ball gown to a 
ball. Not a dinner gown or a tea gown. Society had dress codes  then. Someone 
showing up in a 1912 gown to a 1927 ball would be asked if they  thought it 
was a fancy dress ball, or why they were wearing their mother's  gown. It 
certainly would have been talked about for weeks....maybe months.
 
C'mon! There's a way to make every period look good on everyone. There's no  
need to substitute different periods! It's a fashionable affair for 1927. Do a 
 fashionable dress for 1927! You'll look great!



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 21:26:17 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] 1920s 
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http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_1920s.htm

http://tinyurl.com/2pzowy

http://www.onlinecostumeball.com/Delineator/Nov_1920/Women/EveningWear.htm

1912 styles to see the difference
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4335.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item2698.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4051.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4516.htm

I love this one
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3698.htm

1916
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3690.htm

1919
http://www.antiquedress.com/item2765.htm

1922
http://www.antiquedress.com/item1761.htm

1926
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3177.htm

elaborate head gear
http://www.antiquedress.com/item535.htm

A site
http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1920s/

De

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I had reason to re-find this site recently, and thought I'd finally get =
around to sharing it:
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/
These are _color_ photographs (not colorized, but actual color) from the =
first 2 decades of the 20th century, and--ob. costume content--show some =
amazing ethnic & Edwardian era clothing. =20

To look through them all rather than just selections, try this link:
http://lcweb2.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/p?pp/prok:@field(NUMBER+prok)::SortBy=
=3DCALL
though it may expire.  If it doesn't work, from the main page click =
"Search the entire collection" then "preview: all the images."  Worth =
it.=20

-E=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography
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In a message dated 8/13/2007 4:07:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
swissgirl@swissinfo.org writes:

I had  reason to re-find this site recently, and thought I'd finally get 
around to  sharing it:
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/
These are _color_  photographs (not colorized, but actual color) from the 
first 2 decades of the  20th century, and--ob. costume content--show some amazing 
ethnic &  Edwardian era clothing.  




Wow--a blast from the past!  I actually saw many of these photos on  exhibit 
at the LOC when I went to do research in the late 1980s.  You're  right--they 
are amazing.  
 
Ann Wass



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At the beginning of September, PEERS (our local vintage dance society) 
is doing "The Mikado Ball: A Topsy-Turvy Event" and (since we have other 
events that need it too) I'm doing some Japanese costume for it.

I'm looking for some good resources on Japanese clothes to help me along 
the way.

Here's what I've already got:
Folkwear 151: Japanese Hakama and Kataginu
John Marshall's _Make Your Own Japanese Clothes_
Jenni Dobson's _Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes_
Norio Yamanaka's _The Book of Kimono_
_A Step to Kimono and Kumihimo_ (no author credited, Kyoto Kimono Gakuin)
Alan Kennedy's _Japanese Costume: History and Tradition_
(and a few other things)

I've also got a few websites bookmarked at 
<http://del.icio.us/bovil/costume>

So at this point I'm likely doing Edo period costume; the patterns and 
books I have are sufficient for that. Does anybody have better resources 
on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles?

andy

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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:14:52 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] It's time for Japanese...
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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andy wrote:
Does anybody have better resources
> on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles?

There's a great new book:

Kure, Mitsuo, _Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume_, Chartwell Books,
     London, UK, 2007, ISBN: 0785822089, ISBN-13: 9780785822080

It lists for $19.99US, but lots of places have it cheaper; I got my copy for
around $12.  Most of the costumes depicted are pre-Edo, and each is
given at least four pages of pictures, text, and diagrams.  Costumes are
shown from different angles, and in various stages of assembly.  There are
much more of the mens' costumes than the womens', and lots of armor.
The text is very entertaining.

                   -Helen/Aidan


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Aug 13 09:44:45 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?
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Once again I need expert advice for a theatrical production.  For Cat  
on a Hot Tin Roof (circa 1954), I need to make a removable old-style  
plaster leg cast (knee to toes) that our actor can wear for about 15  
performances. I've got a couple of ideas, but would like to hear from  
you guys before I proceed...things always seem to go better after  
they've been tweaked and advised by the members of this list!

Tia,

Allison P
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] It's time for Japanese...
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There is a lady in Houston that can definitely help you with this. However
she is not on this mailing list. If you are interested please send me an
email and I will get the two of you together on this.

She is Japanese.

Chiara

On 8/12/07, Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:
>
> At the beginning of September, PEERS (our local vintage dance society)
> is doing "The Mikado Ball: A Topsy-Turvy Event" and (since we have other
> events that need it too) I'm doing some Japanese costume for it.
>
> I'm looking for some good resources on Japanese clothes to help me along
> the way.
>
> Here's what I've already got:
> Folkwear 151: Japanese Hakama and Kataginu
> John Marshall's _Make Your Own Japanese Clothes_
> Jenni Dobson's _Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes_
> Norio Yamanaka's _The Book of Kimono_
> _A Step to Kimono and Kumihimo_ (no author credited, Kyoto Kimono Gakuin)
> Alan Kennedy's _Japanese Costume: History and Tradition_
> (and a few other things)
>
> I've also got a few websites bookmarked at
> <http://del.icio.us/bovil/costume>
>
> So at this point I'm likely doing Edo period costume; the patterns and
> books I have are sufficient for that. Does anybody have better resources
> on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles?
>
> andy
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Gosh I don't think these are OT at all!  Fabulous!  Do you think it is =
wrong to assume that most of the materials and sewing at this point =
"over there" were still hand made?  Just looking at the "hut" in the =
Profile of a Nomad - the precision is so incredible.  I feel like it is =
a peek back into time as to how incredibly talented human beings can be =
with just hand tools.


Thanks!

Sg

   
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEKOJFAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<00de01c7dd7e$17cf5530$0c00a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 08:16:05 -0700
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Anyone have a clue what the cartridge like things are on some of the =
men's costume? - =
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_7010__01477_.jpg<http://www=
loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_7010__01477_.jpg>
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: E House<mailto:swissgirl@swissinfo.org>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:46 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography


  I had reason to re-find this site recently, and thought I'd finally =
get around to sharing it:
  =
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/<http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/>
  These are _color_ photographs (not colorized, but actual color) from =
the first 2 decades of the 20th century, and--ob. costume content--show =
some amazing ethnic & Edwardian era clothing. =20

  To look through them all rather than just selections, try this link:
  =
http://lcweb2.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/p?pp/prok:@field(NUMBER+prok)::SortBy=
=3DCALL<http://lcweb2.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/p?pp/prok:@field(NUMBER+prok)=
::SortBy=3DCALL>
  though it may expire.  If it doesn't work, from the main page click =
"Search the entire collection" then "preview: all the images."  Worth =
it.=20

  -E=20
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  h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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I took a wonderful class on how to make 16th-century thread-wrapped  
buttons.  I've been wanting to learn how to make these for a long  
time and even have a book with some instructions, but I never sat  
down and did it.  Now I know the basics and can start on a set of  
buttons for the doublet I'm embroidering.  Even better, making thread- 
wrapped buttons is a small and very portable project.

The Arts display was fab, Monica--congrats!

Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and  
humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 11, 2007, at 8:45 AM, Marie Stewart wrote:

> For those of us Pennsic Starved...  tell, tell, tell... Of course, on
> topic things...  :>
> Mari / Bridgette
>
> On 8/10/07, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
>> We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain!
>> Monica


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
<< Anyone have a clue what the cartridge like things are on some of the 
men's costume? - 
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_7010__01477_.jpg >>

Do you mean the pleats, or the shells?  =}  I'm pretty sure they are 
actually wearing amunition--I'd guess this guy is a cossack, known for their 
military prowess.  Those things look like muzzle-loading paper cartridges:
http://cartridgecollectors.org/slics2006/whitworth.jpg
http://www.horsesoldier.com/catalog/c0034.html
or much less likely, cleaner bullets:
http://www.fototime.com/F3B7ACC989A3679/orig.jpg
They would have been a good 50 years or so out of date at the time of this 
photo, but still used in areas like this.

-E House
(Mmm, a handy dandy pocket-sized time machine, like I always wanted!)

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Ooh, I like the pictures of the austro-hungarian prisoners of war
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_2067__00279_.jpg
--my Austian Grandfather was one for most of the war.  He wrote a book
about his experiences (but it was never published).  It's nice to see
what they might have worn.  He was an officer, but disguised himself
as an enlisted man after the revolution in order to be set free and
not shot!

Katy

On 8/13/07, E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:
> I had reason to re-find this site recently, and thought I'd finally get around to sharing it:
> http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/
> These are _color_ photographs (not colorized, but actual color) from the first 2 decades of the 20th century, and--ob. costume content--show some amazing ethnic & Edwardian era clothing.
>
> To look through them all rather than just selections, try this link:
> http://lcweb2.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/p?pp/prok:@field(NUMBER+prok)::SortBy=CALL
> though it may expire.  If it doesn't work, from the main page click "Search the entire collection" then "preview: all the images."  Worth it.
>
> -E
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Just a test
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Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent ceiling fans.
:)

-----Original Message-----
Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and
humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.

Melanie Schuessler


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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:08:29 -0400
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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ooh, question for you.

Did they happen to address how to splice in a thread if your original
length of thread was too short?   I've always made my buttons with
exceedingly long lengths of thread for fear of not being able to
figure out how to add more thread.

Thanks,
and good to have you "home" safe.
Mari / Bridgette.

On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
> I took a wonderful class on how to make 16th-century thread-wrapped
> buttons.  I've been wanting to learn how to make these for a long
> time and even have a book with some instructions, but I never sat
> down and did it.  Now I know the basics and can start on a set of
> buttons for the doublet I'm embroidering.  Even better, making thread-
> wrapped buttons is a small and very portable project.
>
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Just a test
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Thanks Melanie!

Yes definitely too much rain-- plus it felt like a sauna.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test


I took a wonderful class on how to make 16th-century thread-wrapped  
buttons.  I've been wanting to learn how to make these for a long  
time and even have a book with some instructions, but I never sat  
down and did it.  Now I know the basics and can start on a set of  
buttons for the doublet I'm embroidering.  Even better, making thread- 
wrapped buttons is a small and very portable project.

The Arts display was fab, Monica--congrats!

Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and  
humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 11, 2007, at 8:45 AM, Marie Stewart wrote:

> For those of us Pennsic Starved...  tell, tell, tell... Of course, on
> topic things...  :>
> Mari / Bridgette
>
> On 8/10/07, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
>> We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain!
>> Monica


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography
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IMHO, the couple ARE Cossacks, - and  - from what I can distinguish of the medal ribbons - the man appears to be wearing  several Czarist/Imperial-Russian medals on his tunic's right breast. The Cross would likely be an Award for Valour.
   
  SFAIK, the objects in question are indeed containers of some kind for rifle/carbine  ammunition, possibly for the M1870 "Berdan II" or "Berdanka" rifle  - or more likely the cavalry carbine version - which continued in Czarist Service through the Russo-Turkish War, even after the issue of the Mosin-Nagant to front-line Infantry units beginning around 1891. In fact it continued to be issued to Reserve Units up-to, -  and during WW2.
  Numbers of surplus Berdan I's & II's were sold-off as hunting arms.
   
  According to my copy of "Small Arms Of The World", - a special cartridge was manufactured for use in the Czarist Berdanka cavalry carbine. It consisted of the same cartridge case and bullet used in the Berdan I and Berdan II rifles, but with a lighter powder charge of only 4.5 grams, and was issued in six round pink paper packets.
   
  As late as the Cyprus Emergency in the mid-to-late1950's, the British Forces were occasionally still finding [and confiscating] working, and well-used, early [i.e. mid-to-late 19th C], breechloading long-arms  during anti-EOKA-terrorist operations in the mountain villages.
   
  J.W.
  

E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:
  ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" 
<< Anyone have a clue what the cartridge like things are on some of the 
men's costume? - 
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_7010__01477_.jpg >>

Do you mean the pleats, or the shells? =} I'm pretty sure they are 
actually wearing amunition--I'd guess this guy is a cossack, known for their 
military prowess. Those things look like muzzle-loading paper cartridges:
http://cartridgecollectors.org/slics2006/whitworth.jpg
http://www.horsesoldier.com/catalog/c0034.html
or much less likely, cleaner bullets:
http://www.fototime.com/F3B7ACC989A3679/orig.jpg
They would have been a good 50 years or so out of date at the time of this 
photo, but still used in areas like this.

-E House
(Mmm, a handy dandy pocket-sized time machine, like I always wanted!)

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography - Cossack Couple
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Further to my last posting, concerning the Cossack's  breast-pocket-carried ammunition,  - the Bravery Award worn by this Cossack appears to be either the Order of St. George, 4th Class [a white enamelled Cross worn as a breast badge] - or The Cross of Saint George, either 3rd or 4th Class [ a silver cross worn as a breast badge]. on ribbons of the Romanov House Colours. 
  The most likely, - because of the numbers awarded - is the latter - associated with the most-prestigious Order of Saint George, but for enlisted men and NCO's, the Cross of Saint George came in 4 classes. Like the Order of St. George, the St. George Cross was awarded for acts of distinction under arms.
  An enlisted man or NCO would be awarded the 4th Class Cross for his first brave act. A second notable act could then bring him the 3rd Class Cross, etc. The first class and second class were in gold, the first class with a bow on the ribbon. The third and fourth classes were in silver, the third class marked by a bow. 
  The ribbon was the same as for the Order of Saint George, black stripes upon an orange ground ; - the Colours of the House of Romanov
   
  I hope this info. will be of interest  to someone on the List.
   
  Regards,
   J.W.
E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:
  ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" 
<< Anyone have a clue what the cartridge like things are on some of the 
men's costume? - 
http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87_7010__01477_.jpg >>

Do you mean the pleats, or the shells? =} I'm pretty sure they are 
actually wearing amunition--I'd guess this guy is a cossack, known for their 
military prowess. Those things look like muzzle-loading paper cartridges:
http://cartridgecollectors.org/slics2006/whitworth.jpg
http://www.horsesoldier.com/catalog/c0034.html
or much less likely, cleaner bullets:
http://www.fototime.com/F3B7ACC989A3679/orig.jpg
They would have been a good 50 years or so out of date at the time of this 
photo, but still used in areas like this.

-E House
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 15:58:34 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes.  For the most part, the teacher recommended taking the end of  
the first thread under whatever is already wrapped around the core  
and out the bottom, where you've already got thread tails.  Clip it  
to the length of the existing tails.  Then take the new thread and  
snake it up from the bottom underneath the already-wrapped bits to  
continue at the same spot, leaving a tail of that thread hanging out  
at the bottom as well.  It seemed to work fine with the designs we  
were doing, though it got a tiny bit bulky on one of them--probably  
practice will improve things!

Melanie


On Aug 13, 2007, at 1:08 PM, Marie Stewart wrote:

> ooh, question for you.
>
> Did they happen to address how to splice in a thread if your original
> length of thread was too short?   I've always made my buttons with
> exceedingly long lengths of thread for fear of not being able to
> figure out how to add more thread.
>
> Thanks,
> and good to have you "home" safe.
> Mari / Bridgette.
>
> On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
>> I took a wonderful class on how to make 16th-century thread-wrapped
>> buttons.  I've been wanting to learn how to make these for a long
>> time and even have a book with some instructions, but I never sat
>> down and did it.  Now I know the basics and can start on a set of
>> buttons for the doublet I'm embroidering.  Even better, making  
>> thread-
>> wrapped buttons is a small and very portable project.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:02:13 -0400
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test
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thanks!!  That is very helpful.
Mari / Bridgette

On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
> Yes.  For the most part, the teacher recommended taking the end of
> the first thread under whatever is already wrapped around the core
> and out the bottom, where you've already got thread tails.  Clip it
> to the length of the existing tails.  Then take the new thread and
> snake it up from the bottom underneath the already-wrapped bits to
> continue at the same spot, leaving a tail of that thread hanging out
> at the bottom as well.  It seemed to work fine with the designs we
> were doing, though it got a tiny bit bulky on one of them--probably
> practice will improve things!
>
> Melanie
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From: LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:59:59 -0700
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My first thought would be to go the direct route--call some orthopedic offi=
ces and ask if you can have an old leg cast they've removed.  Yes, they use=
 weird colors now, but a can of white spray paint should fix that.  You cou=
ld tape up one side that's been sawn open, and use velcro on the other to g=
et it on and off.LuAnn> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com> From: allison@aristot=
le.net> Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 08:43:21 -0500> Subject: [h-cost] How do I m=
ake a removable leg cast?> > Once again I need expert advice for a theatric=
al production.  For Cat  > on a Hot Tin Roof (circa 1954), I need to make a=
 removable old-style  > plaster leg cast (knee to toes) that our actor can =
wear for about 15  > performances. I've got a couple of ideas, but would li=
ke to hear from  > you guys before I proceed...things always seem to go bet=
ter after  > they've been tweaked and advised by the members of this list!>=
 > Tia,> > Allison P> _______________________________________________> h-co=
stume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman=
/listinfo/h-costume=
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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That might not be the best idea... by the time those things come off, they often stink to high heaven. I recall one night many years ago when I placed my broken hand near my face while sleeping and the stench woke me up. ;-)

LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com> wrote:  My first thought would be to go the direct route--call some orthopedic offices and ask if you can have an old leg cast they've removed. Yes, they use weird colors now, but a can of white spray paint should fix that. You could tape up one side that's been sawn open, and use velcro on the other to get it on and off.LuAnn> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com> From: allison@aristotle.net> Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 08:43:21 -0500> Subject: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?> > Once again I need expert advice for a theatrical production. For Cat > on a Hot Tin Roof (circa 1954), I need to make a removable old-style > plaster leg cast (knee to toes) that our actor can wear for about 15 > performances. I've got a couple of ideas, but would like to hear from > you guys before I proceed...things always seem to go better after > they've been tweaked and advised by the members of this list!> > Tia,> > Allison P>
 _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume_______________________________________________
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Beteena Paradise wrote:
> That might not be the best idea... by the time those things come off, they often stink to high heaven. I recall one night many years ago when I placed my broken hand near my face while sleeping and the stench woke me up. ;-)
>
> LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com> wrote:  My first thought would be to go the direct route--call some orthopedic offices and ask if you can have an old leg cast they've removed.

Second option: make one yourself.  Securing the plaster-fabric probably 
would be fairly easy.  Then all you need is someone with the right tool 
to saw it off after it had hardned -- or carefully make it with seams 
that just barely don't meet, so you can do it with regular scissors or 
something like that.

cv
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] It's time for Japanese...
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On Aug 13, 2007, at 6:14 AM, Helen Pinto wrote:
> andy wrote:
> Does anybody have better resources
>> on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles?
>
> There's a great new book:
>
> Kure, Mitsuo, _Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume_, Chartwell Books,
>     London, UK, 2007, ISBN: 0785822089, ISBN-13: 9780785822080
>
> It lists for $19.99US, but lots of places have it cheaper; I got my  
> copy for
> around $12.  Most of the costumes depicted are pre-Edo, and each is
> given at least four pages of pictures, text, and diagrams.   
> Costumes are
> shown from different angles, and in various stages of assembly.   
> There are
> much more of the mens' costumes than the womens', and lots of armor.
> The text is very entertaining.

Thank you, this is exactly the sort of thing I'm looking for  
(menswear is often an afterthought in so many costume books).

andy

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:41:28 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] linen vs. cotton; was:  Just a test
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Ooh.  I'm not much of a camper, but I've already got plans for next  
time to make things a bit better.  I'll add that to the list.

On a costume note, I would like to once again put in a vote for linen  
over cotton as being the coolest thing around when it's ghastly hot.   
I could definitely tell the difference between my old cotton chemises  
and my new linen ones!  And my new kirtles are all linen as well,  
thank goodness.

Also, though I haven't put it through the wash a bunch of times yet,  
I have hopes for my new linen shirt, which has a ruffle at the top of  
the collar.  My old cotton one turns into a bunch of tiny crinkles  
every time I wash it, and I have to iron it out and spray-starch it  
to get it to behave nicely.  Note that these are not starched ruffs  
in the formal figure eights, just small ruffles.  The new linen one  
is cut with the long edge of the ruffle on the long grain of the  
fabric (parallel to the selvedge), which is what Arnold noted in her  
study of existing 17th-century ruffs.  Even in the horrifying heat  
and humidity--I think I got wet in the rain, too--that ruffle stayed  
nice and sproingy (that's a technical term).  Even though it will  
soften with repeated washings, I think the relative stiffness of the  
linen and the strength of the grain will help hold it out better than  
the cotton one.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 13, 2007, at 12:54 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent  
> ceiling fans.
> :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and
> humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>
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Thanks, Julian!  Mine were just semi-educated guesses--it's nice to see them 
confirmed.

-E House
(certifiable gun & obsolete technology nut)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?
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My first thought would be to go the direct route--call some orthopedic 
offices and ask if you can have an old leg cast they've removed.
---------------

OH YUCK!!  6 weeks' (or more) worth of dead skin cells and dried sweat. 
Please don't go there.


Get some plaster rolls from a hobby shop and make one to fit the actor. Wrap 
it with sheet cotton first to make it less form fitting and as a cushion. 
Use a dremel tool to cut it off and some velcro to make it re-usable.

Denise
Iowa 

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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Second option: make one yourself.  Securing the plaster-fabric probably 
> would be fairly easy.  Then all you need is someone with the right tool 
> to saw it off after it had hardned -- or carefully make it with seams 
> that just barely don't meet, so you can do it with regular scissors or 
> something like that.


This seems like one of those times paper-mache' would be perfect. It's 
cheap and lightweight, and you can probably figure out some kind of 
cloth hinge and closure for it. You might even make two, just in case 
you need a replacement halfway through the run.


Dawn

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> Get some plaster rolls from a hobby shop and make one to fit the actor. 
> Wrap
> it with sheet cotton first to make it less form fitting and as a cushion. 
> Use a dremel tool to cut it off and some velcro to make it re-usable.


I meant to include this link as an example of the product I referred to:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz335/05/


Denise 

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	<621E84ED-F6FB-42BB-860A-234D78F9F820@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen vs. cotton; was:  Just a test
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:19:58 -0700
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I bet you are right.  I noticed in hanging linen (huge lengths of it) =
out on the line in the AZ heat that it dries very quickly, a little =
stiffly and needs almost no ironing.

Very cool fabric (no pun intended!)

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Melanie Schuessler<mailto:melanie@faucet.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 1:41 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] linen vs. cotton; was: Just a test


  Ooh.  I'm not much of a camper, but I've already got plans for next =20
  time to make things a bit better.  I'll add that to the list.

  On a costume note, I would like to once again put in a vote for linen  =

  over cotton as being the coolest thing around when it's ghastly hot.   =

  I could definitely tell the difference between my old cotton chemises  =

  and my new linen ones!  And my new kirtles are all linen as well, =20
  thank goodness.

  Also, though I haven't put it through the wash a bunch of times yet, =20
  I have hopes for my new linen shirt, which has a ruffle at the top of  =

  the collar.  My old cotton one turns into a bunch of tiny crinkles =20
  every time I wash it, and I have to iron it out and spray-starch it =20
  to get it to behave nicely.  Note that these are not starched ruffs =20
  in the formal figure eights, just small ruffles.  The new linen one =20
  is cut with the long edge of the ruffle on the long grain of the =20
  fabric (parallel to the selvedge), which is what Arnold noted in her =20
  study of existing 17th-century ruffs.  Even in the horrifying heat =20
  and humidity--I think I got wet in the rain, too--that ruffle stayed =20
  nice and sproingy (that's a technical term).  Even though it will =20
  soften with repeated washings, I think the relative stiffness of the =20
  linen and the strength of the grain will help hold it out better than  =

  the cotton one.

  Melanie Schuessler


  On Aug 13, 2007, at 12:54 PM, otsisto wrote:

  > Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent =20
  > ceiling fans.
  > :)
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and
  > humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.
  >
  > Melanie Schuessler
  >
  >
  > _______________________________________________
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Never tried this, but could you not use some of the thinner foam padding,
cover it with cotton, and hide any fastenings (velcro, snaps, whatever)
in it? Paint it to taste? I'm probably not explaining this well, but my
thought is that plaster is heavy and can be uncomfortable. As for moving
in it--it's why they call it "acting."

Arlys

Denise wrote:
> OH YUCK!!  6 weeks' (or more) worth of dead skin cells and dried 
> sweat. Please don't go there.

What she said! ICK!

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Obsolete weapons - was amazing: early color photography
	- 
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E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:
  Thanks, Julian! Mine were just semi-educated guesses--it's nice to see them 
confirmed.

-E House
(certifiable gun & obsolete technology nut)
   
  COMMENT
  Well, back when rocks were soft, I fired a LOT of infantry weapons on Courses at the Small Arms Wing of the  School of Infantry, - at Hythe. 
  The Museum there had the most complete collection of "small arms of the world" in the entire UK; but it was a museum which was a "working" part of the School, and the weapons were there to be used, in the lecture theatres [to study design, engineering, stripping, cleaning, repiar, adjustm,net, &c, &c.],  - and on the Hythe ranges in "comparative shoots".
  There,  the Instructors used to teach us to be able to make effective combat use of  any foreign weapon we might find "in the field", - should we be denied the use of our own personal weapons for some reason, when "on Ops".
  [If you kept yourself busy, going on Courses, you got a reputation for "being keen"; and your CO was less likely to find you unpleasant or boring jobs to do!]  
  Contacting Major Gales, then the  Adjutant and Curator at Hythe, to sign a "bloodchit" and take-up a place on a Comparative Weapons Course was quite highly-regarded as an interesting "get-out", from exercises on Dartmoor or in the Brecon Beacons.
  So, many of the bright chaps in my generation did courses on Allied and captured enemy weapons and other equipment. Which included many weapons supposedly obsolete for frontline Units in their countries of origin, but handed over to allied Satellites, or issued to Reserve formations, or ""home defence" units; or air-dropped to guerilla/partisan units, 
  In my time, I had the opportunity to fire everything from16th C bronze cannon, Tower Muskets, Baker Rifles,  and Napoleon's Daughters, - up to the first Avtomat Kalashnikovs [captured during the Suez Affair].
  And I hasten to point out that this wasn't a question of being  "gun-nuts" - this was about personal survival, considering where some of us were being Posted, and what our Opposition might well have in their weapons caches, left-over from previous wars. Fledgling Independance Movements bought whatever weapons they could afford from Arms Dealers. And sometimes this meant- for the poorest - weapons which had last seen service in the Crimean or Franco-Prussian Wars of the 19th C.
   
  Back to the Cossack Male -  All the tunics have those breast pockets for 12 rounds of ammunition. And his edged weapons are as much a part of his traditional dress as his clothing, his riding boots, baggy trousers,  and his hat.
  If you do a Google Search for "Cossack weapons" - you'll get a selection of websites containing nice pictures released from the ex-Soviet Archives - and you'll see that all Cossacks, of all the Hosts, carried the same designs of traditional long knives or short swords [whichever!].
  Wikpedia has a mass of cross-refernced data about the various Cossack Hosts - lifestyle, ancient and modern history, &c, &c.
   
  Regards,
  J.W.


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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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X-ASG-Orig-Subj: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but amazing: early color photography
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:50:46 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
<< Fabulous!  Do you think it is wrong to assume that most of the materials 
and sewing at this point "over there" were still hand made?  Just looking at 
the "hut" in the Profile of a Nomad - the precision is so incredible.  I 
feel like it is a peek back into time as to how incredibly talented human 
beings can be with just hand tools. >>

I am so fascinated by these pictures... they make the history home to me so 
much more than anything else I've seen.

I've always been fascinated by Russia, partly because western Russia is 
Fairytale Land to me, but mostly because Russia has made such a habit of 
being way behind the times.  The people in those pictures had far more in 
common with 16thC or earlier western Europe than with early 20th western 
Europe!  (And to look at the depressed faces of Russian peasants only a few 
years before the revolution... wow.)

And then when I think that these pictures predate Max Tilke's book on Asian 
costume...!  Complete old photo geek, I am. I'm not at all interested in 
replicating Russian costume, and I expected to be disappointed that there's 
only a handful of pictures of c1910 western European costume, but no. It's 
the Russian costumes I'm drooling over, even though I still don't want to 
make them!

-E House

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From: LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:20:10 -0700
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> > Denise wrote:> > OH YUCK!!  6 weeks' (or more) worth of dead skin cells=
 and dried > > sweat. Please don't go there.> > What she said! ICK!I guess =
everybody has a different experience.  We kept my daughter's leg cast (she =
uses it as a unique container to store "long" things--the cat's fishing pol=
e toy, long pieces of bamboo she likes, some willow switches, her parasol, =
etc.).  We took out the "sock" layer that was right next to her skin, spray=
ed the thing with Lysol "just because" and never had any smells, discolorat=
ion, or whatever.  Had it three years now with no negative "ick" factor, so=
 that was why I suggested it.Go figure.LuAnn=
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Greetings all,

In the new issue of Costume (the journal of the British Costume  
Society), there are four--count them, four!--articles of interest to  
Elizabethan mavens.  The first is a very short posthumous article by  
the great Janet Arnold on the stays and drawers from QEI's effigy.   
She cautions that as the drawers are nailed on (ouch!), the pattern  
may be inaccurate.  A very interesting editor's note to this article  
reads in part:  "It is an important piece of work to which she had  
given a substantial amount of time, but it does not fit with her  
plans for the forthcoming volume of Patterns of Fashion:  The Cut and  
Construction of Linen Clothes for Men and Women*
*Work on this volume is progressing well and should be with the  
publisher by the end of 2007.  It is hoped that a second volume and  
remaining patterns can be  completed by November 2008."

Whether this means any more than the previous "we're working on it"  
messages we've gotten about this material is anyone's guess, but I  
thought I would pass it along.

The other articles are:

'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance
This cap was given in 1536, and the journal includes color pictures  
of a Mad Hatter-ish velvet hat and details of its materials and  
construction.  I've not read the article in detail yet, so I can't  
tell you much more than that.

Rainbow for a Reign:  The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe
Queen Elizabeth I's wardrobe, that is--this is an analysis of the  
colors mentioned in the New Year's Gift Rolls, and there is a color  
page with names and little colored boxes.  Also very useful are the  
appendices, which are tables of color definitions, years of  
appearance and what colors appeared on which garments, color  
combinations and what years they were used, and locations and  
shelfmarks of extant New Year's Gift Rolls (of which there are many  
more than I thought!).  Also very interesting is a note saying that  
the author, Jane A. Lawson, is preparing a full annotated transcript  
of all the New Year's Gift Rolls, which will be published by the  
British Academy in their series Records of Economic and Social  
History.  It doesn't say when, but the annotation will include  
indexes of people and biographical sketches.

The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailor's  
Guild or Company of Merchants?
I have not so much as skimmed this yet, but the intro says "Part I of  
this article examines briefly the origins, nature and functions of  
the sub-company [of the yeomanry within the guild].  Part II explores  
the degree to which this body represented the continuation of the  
traditions of the medieval guild of London tailors and continued to  
embody the aspirations and interests of its artisan members."

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have 
to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
Wich way is the best to iron it?
Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, 
or should i just steam iron it?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
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At 15:32 15/08/2007, you wrote:
>Greetings all,
>
>In the new issue of Costume (the journal of the British Costume
>Society), there are four--count them, four!--articles of interest to
>Elizabethan mavens.  The first is a very short posthumous article by
>the great Janet Arnold on the stays and drawers from QEI's effigy.
>She cautions that as the drawers are nailed on (ouch!), the pattern
>may be inaccurate.  A very interesting editor's note to this article
>reads in part:  "It is an important piece of work to which she had
>given a substantial amount of time, but it does not fit with her
>plans for the forthcoming volume of Patterns of Fashion:  The Cut and
>Construction of Linen Clothes for Men and Women*
>*Work on this volume is progressing well and should be with the
>publisher by the end of 2007.  It is hoped that a second volume and
>remaining patterns can be  completed by November 2008."
>
>Whether this means any more than the previous "we're working on it"
>messages we've gotten about this material is anyone's guess, but I
>thought I would pass it along.

I was talking to Santina Levey and Jenny Tiramani about these books 
earlier this year, and Jenny told me that the Effigy Corset pattern 
would be included in the book on linens, even though it wasn't 
entirely suitable for the theme of the book. they wanted to make sure 
that it was included in one of her books, and it seemed that this was 
the most suitable. The book is indeed almost ready to go to the 
publishers, but both ladies have other work to complete, as well as 
working on Janet's book.

The reason for the apparent anomaly in what was written and what was 
said is that I suspect the Journal went to press some time before our 
conversation.

Suzi

>The other articles are:
>
>'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance
>This cap was given in 1536, and the journal includes color pictures
>of a Mad Hatter-ish velvet hat and details of its materials and
>construction.  I've not read the article in detail yet, so I can't
>tell you much more than that.
>
>Rainbow for a Reign:  The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe
>Queen Elizabeth I's wardrobe, that is--this is an analysis of the
>colors mentioned in the New Year's Gift Rolls, and there is a color
>page with names and little colored boxes.  Also very useful are the
>appendices, which are tables of color definitions, years of
>appearance and what colors appeared on which garments, color
>combinations and what years they were used, and locations and
>shelfmarks of extant New Year's Gift Rolls (of which there are many
>more than I thought!).  Also very interesting is a note saying that
>the author, Jane A. Lawson, is preparing a full annotated transcript
>of all the New Year's Gift Rolls, which will be published by the
>British Academy in their series Records of Economic and Social
>History.  It doesn't say when, but the annotation will include
>indexes of people and biographical sketches.
>
>The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailor's
>Guild or Company of Merchants?
>I have not so much as skimmed this yet, but the intro says "Part I of
>this article examines briefly the origins, nature and functions of
>the sub-company [of the yeomanry within the guild].  Part II explores
>the degree to which this body represented the continuation of the
>traditions of the medieval guild of London tailors and continued to
>embody the aspirations and interests of its artisan members."
>
>Melanie Schuessler
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:33:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My mother always told me to sprinkle linen with water, put it in a plastic bag for an hour or overnight and iron. That way the linen gets really damp.
  Steam iron doesn't seem to do it for me.
   
  Tania

       
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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
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My personal experience has been that ironing dampened linen works better than steam ironing.  But it probably depends on your steam iron.  Mine just doesn't produce enough steam to work well with linen.  Good luck.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:16:45 +0200

Hi,
Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have 
to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
Wich way is the best to iron it?
Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, 
or should i just steam iron it?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:48:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen.
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At 08:16 AM 8/15/2007, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that 
>i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
>Wich way is the best to iron it?
>Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i 
>iron it, or should i just steam iron it?
>
>Bjarne

When I iron linen, I try to take it directly from the washer and iron 
it while still damp.  In my experience, a steam iron does not do a 
very good job on dry linen.  I would recommend getting it thoroughly 
damp before ironing.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen.
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I wear lots of linen so am ironing it all the time. I use a spray 
bottle. You can usually get these from stores that sell plants or, like 
I did, just wash out a spray bottle from window cleaner or a similar 
product.

- Hope
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 09:40:28 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
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When I was a child, my mom didn't have a steam iron. She'd take the
clothes out of the washing machine and put them into a large
heavy-duty plastic bag in the refrigerator until she could get to the
ironing, usually after we all went to school the next day.

I had a lot of linen to iron recently, did NOT do this (I was
traveling) and spent 3 1/2 hour ironing 10+ yards of linen just smooth
enough to cut out. When these shirts are finished, I'll have to get
them wet to iron them because steam irons just won't work well on
their own with linen. But I don't have a Rowenta with the extra tank
for the heavy steam.

LynnD

On 8/15/07, Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:
> My personal experience has been that ironing dampened linen works better than steam ironing.  But it probably depends on your steam iron.  Mine just doesn't produce enough steam to work well with linen.  Good luck.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
> --- drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:
>
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Cc:
> Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
> Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:16:45 +0200
>
> Hi,
> Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have
> to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
> Wich way is the best to iron it?
> Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it,
> or should i just steam iron it?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.
> _______________________________________________
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On Wed, 15 Aug 2007, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> In the new issue of Costume ...

> 'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance

> The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailor's  
> Guild or Company of Merchants?

Authors?

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
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Sorry...

On Aug 15, 2007, at 1:00 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Wed, 15 Aug 2007, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>
>> In the new issue of Costume ...
>
>> 'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance

by Cliodna Devitt

>
>> The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailor's
>> Guild or Company of Merchants?

by Nigel Sleigh-Johnson

>
> Authors?
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:00:09 -0400
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My mother always ironed her embroidered linen tablecloths by taking  
them out of the washing machine, putting them into the dryer for  5  
to 10 minutes (so they became steamy rather than soaking wet), then  
spreading them on a large flat surface (sometimes the table itself,  
with heat- and wet-protective padding), and ironing them until they  
were dry. BEAUTIFUL results.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 15, 2007, at 12:40 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> When I was a child, my mom didn't have a steam iron. She'd take the
> clothes out of the washing machine and put them into a large
> heavy-duty plastic bag in the refrigerator until she could get to the
> ironing, usually after we all went to school the next day.
>
> I had a lot of linen to iron recently, did NOT do this (I was
> traveling) and spent 3 1/2 hour ironing 10+ yards of linen just smooth
> enough to cut out. When these shirts are finished, I'll have to get
> them wet to iron them because steam irons just won't work well on
> their own with linen. But I don't have a Rowenta with the extra tank
> for the heavy steam.
>
> LynnD
>
> On 8/15/07, Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:
>> My personal experience has been that ironing dampened linen works  
>> better than steam ironing.  But it probably depends on your steam  
>> iron.  Mine just doesn't produce enough steam to work well with  
>> linen.  Good luck.
>>
>> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>>
>> --- drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:
>>
>> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Cc:
>> Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
>> Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:16:45 +0200
>>
>> Hi,
>> Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering  
>> that i have
>> to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
>> Wich way is the best to iron it?
>> Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before  
>> i iron it,
>> or should i just steam iron it?
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________
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>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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Hi,
Manny manny thanks for your help with this. Ill wet it a little and put it 
in a plasticbag for the night, so that i can start ironing early tomorrow.

Thanks again.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linen Shirt
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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My mother said the same except the bag (with the dampened linen) went in
the refrigerator first.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Tania Gruning
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:34 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Linen Shirt

My mother always told me to sprinkle linen with water, put it in a
plastic bag for an hour or overnight and iron. That way the linen gets
really damp.
  Steam iron doesn't seem to do it for me.
  =20
  Tania

      =20
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Why did i have to read this article before going to iron all our 
underlinen from last weekend's event?  It's much too dry, but time just 
doesn't allow for me to catch it while it's wet.  Spray bottle, where 
are you?

Jean


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Manny manny thanks for your help with this. Ill wet it a little and 
> put it in a plasticbag for the night, so that i can start ironing 
> early tomorrow.
>
> Thanks again.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff.

Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant email 
lists, with attribution?

And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset?


cv/cynthia

--
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 16:12:15 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linen Shirt
In-reply-to: <349465.42105.qm@web39613.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Likewise-- My mom put the damp stuff rolled up into the freezer and took it
out when she was ready.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Tania Gruning
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:34 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Linen Shirt


My mother always told me to sprinkle linen with water, put it in a plastic
bag for an hour or overnight and iron. That way the linen gets really damp.
  Steam iron doesn't seem to do it for me.

  Tania


---------------------------------
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 16:34:45 -0400
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Absolutely.  Would you do me a favor and add in the author names, as  
Robin rightly suggested?

To Cap it All
by Cliodna Devitt

Rainbow for a Reign
Jane A. Lawson

The Merchant Taylors' Company
Nigel Sleigh-Johnson

Thanks!
Melanie


On Aug 15, 2007, at 4:18 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff.
>
> Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant  
> email lists, with attribution?
>
> And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset?
>
>
> cv/cynthia
>
> --
> Vandeverre's Emporium, Caledon II: for a subset of your Victorian  
> Second Life needs!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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At 21:18 15/08/2007, you wrote:
>Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff.
>
>Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant 
>email lists, with attribution?
>
>And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset?
>
>
>cv/cynthia


Yes, the conversation was not to be kept a secret, as far as I know. 
However, because the book had not yet gone to the publishers when I 
was talking to Jenny, I think I would prefer that you say something 
to the effect of "Janet's literary executors are hoping to be able to 
include her pattern for the effigy corset in the "Linen" book, just 
in case there is a problem at the publishers. Unless you want to wait 
while I e-mail her to check?

Suzi

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Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> Absolutely.  Would you do me a favor and add in the author names, as 
> Robin rightly suggested?
>
Will do.  Thank you!


cv
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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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Please be warned--ironing wet or even just damp linen stretches it out a 
LOT.  This can have all sorts of annoying effects if you plan to make/have 
made a fitted or supportive garment out of it, or if it's being used as a 
lining for wool, or if you don't want to have to iron the garment EVERY 
SINGLE TIME before wearing it to keep the seams from puckering horribly.

Voice of experience, in case you couldn't tell...

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
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E House wrote:
> Please be warned--ironing wet or even just damp linen stretches it out 
> a LOT. 

Good thing to mention!

My mom taught me to always iron fancy linen under a lot of tension, so 
you get that shimmery pressed look, but that's probably not what people 
want for their underthings!

cv
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
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Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.


> Hi,
> Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i 
> have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
> Wich way is the best to iron it?
> Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron 
> it, or should i just steam iron it?
>
> Bjarne

I spray my linen with a spray bottle of lavender water, then use a dry iron 
(ok, actually my mangle)on a very hot temperature to iron it.  It comes out 
beautifully.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen. 
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I tend to spray with water and steam iron.
 
that's with cloth or clothes for other people.
 
my own linen clothes I tend not to bother ironing at all.  I find that  the 
creases drop out of pure linen in less than an hour  anyway.





   
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 21:18 15/08/2007, you wrote:
>> Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff.
>>
>> Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant 
>> email lists, with attribution?
>>
>> And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset?
>>
>>
>> cv/cynthia
>
>
> Yes, the conversation was not to be kept a secret, as far as I know. 
> However, because the book had not yet gone to the publishers when I 
> was talking to Jenny, I think I would prefer that you say something to 
> the effect of "Janet's literary executors are hoping to be able to 
> include her pattern for the effigy corset in the "Linen" book, just in 
> case there is a problem at the publishers. Unless you want to wait 
> while I e-mail her to check?
No need; the more general statement will be great.  Thank you both!

cv
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
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Greetings.

I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto:

http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Veneto&mode=artist&frm=1

Specifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on the
camica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now.

Thanks so much.

kate
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:30:40 -0500
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A wee bit better
http://tinyurl.com/2n6r4o

I remember once upon a time that there was a site that zoomed in on the
portrait but I can't seem to find it.

De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings.

I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto:

http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Veneto&mo
de=artist&frm=1

Specifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on the
camica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now.

Thanks so much.

kate


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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 16:38:43 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
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ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:
> Greetings.
>
> I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto:
>
> http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Veneto&mode=artist&frm=1
>
>   


Ahh... good luck getting anything out of them.  I broke down and got 
this book from the library
The sixteenth-century Italian paintings. Volume 1, Paintings from 
Bergamo, Brescia and Cremona  by Penny Nicholas - National Gallery of 
Great Britain


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
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An interesting topic today... I ran into a problem today with a linen mix 
dress.

I have a cotton / linen blend off-white dress that I had not worn in a 
couple of years.  I was cleaning out my closet and noticed the dress had 
turned a dark tea color.  I took the dress to the dry cleaners today and 
they said that they could not get the tea color out.  She stated the reason 
this happened was because of the hot temperatures in my closet.  Last week 
we had 100 degree temperatures and my closet has two exterior walls.  I 
opened my closet door and the air was really hot.  So I started leaving the 
closet door open on hot days to let the air conditioning get into the 
closet.

Tonight, I washed the dress with hot water, Shave shampoo, and a little 
bleach.  To get rid of the bleach in the fabric, I rinsed it several times 
in clear water.  The dress color is now its natural off-white!  YEA!  I am 
going to try the refrigerator trick to see how it works on this dress.

BTW, I have found that Shave shampoo is gentle enough to wash white delicate 
natural fabrics.  I have been using Shave for the past year and it works 
wonders!

I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated.  Some 
of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me 
wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the 
generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and 
cooling the linen is not mentioned.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:30:21 -0700
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(snip)
> I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated. 
> Some of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes 
> me wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the 
> generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and 
> cooling the linen is not mentioned.
>
> Penny Ladnier,

I was never taught to cool the linen.  My grandmother, who took in ironing 
for people, used to sprinkle all of the cotton and linen, then put it in the 
freezer, but only so it wouldn't mildew before she got around to ironing it. 
I've never seen any difference between the linen that's been frozen and that 
that's ironed immediately after sprinkling.

Melusine 

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:37:10 -0700
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>
> I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing
> originated.  Some
> of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me
> wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the
> generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and
> cooling the linen is not mentioned.
>
> Penny Ladnier,

Actually my mother used to put things in the refrigerator or freezer in
order to keep them from developing mildew before she got around to ironing
them.  She had a full time job as a Hospital pharmacist and clothing could
be washed on one Saturday and ironed when she had the time and energy to do
so.

Wanda

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:04:59 +1000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Tags/Label  Was: Urgent question about 1927 outfit
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At 01:44 AM 13/08/2007, you wrote:
>This link has a picture of the Vogue tag up in the left hand 
>corner.  Anyone remember when you used to buy these patterns, they 
>would give you a really nice woven tag/label?  Anyone know what 
>happened to that practice?
>
>Sg


I recieved tags for all 4 vintage vogues I purchased in June (in 
Australia), but that doesn't exclude the tages being left over stock 
though. They were automatically included in the patterns I bought. It 
was a higher end fabric store as well.

Sharon



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t
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I wonder if this cooling method comes from mothers who put out their laundry 
on the clothesline in the winter and the fabric froze.  I had not 
experienced the freezing laundering syndrome until we moved to Illinois. My 
son's cloth diapers froze stiff on the clothesline.  From all my years of 
living in the Deep South, I had not experienced frozen laundry until then. 
We didn't have a clothes dryer in our apartment and I had to iron his 
diapers.  At the time, we were snowed in for a week.

A friend of mine grew up in Nebraska.  She told me that her grandmother 
ironed everything year round.  I recall my mother ironing sheets and 
pillowcases.

I do have a couple of question about ironing.

1. I had mentioned previously on this list that there is a correct way to 
iron.  Can someone point me to a webpage that shows the correct way to iron? 
I put my dress in the freezer for the night.  If ironing wet linen causes it 
to stretch, is there a particular way to iron it to decrease the amount of 
stretch?

2.  I had some 100% white cotton Priscilla curtains that I need to iron.  I 
paid a lot of money for these curtains and really love them.  In the past 
years, I starched them to remove the wrinkles.  The last time that I washed 
them, they were yellowed from the starch.  I bleached them but can't get rid 
of the yellow tinge.
2A.  Is there another way to get rid of the yellow tinge?
2B. Is there something other than starching to assist keeping the curtains 
crisp longer?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:24:14 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
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Yeah, in my house it was a timing thing. Mom would was laundry while
we were at school, but wouldn't iron with 4 kids between 5-11 running
around the house. And then it was time to start dinner, then
dinnertime, dishes (my job as the oldest), homework and she was done
for the day. She had to put the ironing in the refrigerator or she was
afraid of that moldy smell and that the wrinkles would set. It didn't
have anything to do with cooling the linen (or cotton). I learned a
few years ago - here - about ice crystals breaking down the linen
threads to make it softer. As a matter of fact, my mother-in-law,
raising her kids in Montana and Utah, swears that hanging out the
diapers in the snow and the frost would soften the diapers and freeze
out any stains.

LynnD

On 8/15/07, Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
> >
> > I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing
> > originated.  Some
> > of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me
> > wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the
> > generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and
> > cooling the linen is not mentioned.
> >
> > Penny Ladnier,
>
> Actually my mother used to put things in the refrigerator or freezer in
> order to keep them from developing mildew before she got around to ironing
> them.  She had a full time job as a Hospital pharmacist and clothing could
> be washed on one Saturday and ironed when she had the time and energy to do
> so.
>
> Wanda
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Cooling linen - Maybe to retard bacterial or fungal growth, but my guess
would be to get the most bang from the steam with a bigger temperature
differential.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 1:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning

An interesting topic today... I ran into a problem today with a linen
mix=20
dress.

I have a cotton / linen blend off-white dress that I had not worn in a=20
couple of years.  I was cleaning out my closet and noticed the dress had

turned a dark tea color.  I took the dress to the dry cleaners today and

they said that they could not get the tea color out.  She stated the
reason=20
this happened was because of the hot temperatures in my closet.  Last
week=20
we had 100 degree temperatures and my closet has two exterior walls.  I=20
opened my closet door and the air was really hot.  So I started leaving
the=20
closet door open on hot days to let the air conditioning get into the=20
closet.

Tonight, I washed the dress with hot water, Shave shampoo, and a little=20
bleach.  To get rid of the bleach in the fabric, I rinsed it several
times=20
in clear water.  The dress color is now its natural off-white!  YEA!  I
am=20
going to try the refrigerator trick to see how it works on this dress.

BTW, I have found that Shave shampoo is gentle enough to wash white
delicate=20
natural fabrics.  I have been using Shave for the past year and it works

wonders!

I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated.
Some=20
of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me=20
wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the=20
generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and=20
cooling the linen is not mentioned.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t
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If your clothing freezes on the line - leave it for the wind to whip out
the ice - the fabric will be wonderfully soft & good smelling. Just be
sure to get out of the way of those sheets when you're hanging them out
- they turn into boards when they freeze & really hurt if they hit you.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t

I wonder if this cooling method comes from mothers who put out their
laundry=20
on the clothesline in the winter and the fabric froze.  I had not=20
experienced the freezing laundering syndrome until we moved to Illinois.
My=20
son's cloth diapers froze stiff on the clothesline.  From all my years
of=20
living in the Deep South, I had not experienced frozen laundry until
then.=20
We didn't have a clothes dryer in our apartment and I had to iron his=20
diapers.  At the time, we were snowed in for a week.

A friend of mine grew up in Nebraska.  She told me that her grandmother=20
ironed everything year round.  I recall my mother ironing sheets and=20
pillowcases.

I do have a couple of question about ironing.

1. I had mentioned previously on this list that there is a correct way
to=20
iron.  Can someone point me to a webpage that shows the correct way to
iron?=20
I put my dress in the freezer for the night.  If ironing wet linen
causes it=20
to stretch, is there a particular way to iron it to decrease the amount
of=20
stretch?

2.  I had some 100% white cotton Priscilla curtains that I need to iron.
I=20
paid a lot of money for these curtains and really love them.  In the
past=20
years, I starched them to remove the wrinkles.  The last time that I
washed=20
them, they were yellowed from the starch.  I bleached them but can't get
rid=20
of the yellow tinge.
2A.  Is there another way to get rid of the yellow tinge?
2B. Is there something other than starching to assist keeping the
curtains=20
crisp longer?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:21:18 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Tags/Label
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At 01:44 AM 13/08/2007, you wrote:
>This link has a picture of the Vogue tag up in the left hand
>corner.  Anyone remember when you used to buy these patterns, they
>would give you a really nice woven tag/label?  Anyone know what
>happened to that practice?

RJReynolds did that with the quilt fabrics copied from original quilts
in the Smithsonian.  My 1835 daygown of *huge* cabbage roses has "The
Smithsonian Collection, The Grooms Quilt" label sewn inside the
bodice.  G Street Fabrics gave out a tag to customers who purchase at
least a certain amt of yardage.

I had another dress, American Civil War era, with a different
Smithsonian/RJR collection label, but it long ago was given away or
sold.

It's pity RJR & the Smithsonian stopped collaborating on those.  It
was a great way to find historical prints for day dresses.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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Here's the biggest I could find on the web:
http://www.utfinalese.it/pagine/abiti.html (scroll down 1 screen)

-E House
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2A - Old fashioned bluing.  The blue will cancel out the yellowing 
and make the fabric appear whiter.

2B - Sorry, don't know that one.

Sandy

At 03:40 PM 8/16/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 03:06:53 -0400
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t
>
>I do have a couple of question about ironing.
>
>2.  I had some 100% white cotton Priscilla curtains that I need to iron.  I
>paid a lot of money for these curtains and really love them.  In the past
>years, I starched them to remove the wrinkles.  The last time that I washed
>them, they were yellowed from the starch.  I bleached them but can't get rid
>of the yellow tinge.
>2A.  Is there another way to get rid of the yellow tinge?
>2B. Is there something other than starching to assist keeping the curtains
>crisp longer?
>
>Penny Ladnier,

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 00:10:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Kate,=0A=0Aa while back on the Italian Renaissance Costuming yahoo group=
, Salvi posted a link to a scan she had made of this image. It's HUGE...my =
copy is 26.4Mb.=0A=0AI've done a quick search of the archives and will post=
 it here for you (be warned - it's huge!)=0A=0Ahttp://www.outoftheattic.biz=
/images/bartolomeo.jpg=0A=0AA link to the message itself:=0A=0Ahttp://group=
s.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/message/4998=0A=0A =0ABella=
, The Realm of Venus=0AI'm doing the World Vision 40 Hour Famine this year!=
 Please visit... http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/40HourFamine2007.=
htm ...to find out more.=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "ai=
lith@neo.rr.com" <ailith@neo.rr.com>=0ATo: Historical Costume <h-costume@in=
dra.com>=0ASent: Thursday, 16 August, 2007 11:47:51 AM=0ASubject: [h-cost] =
Looking for detail of image ca. 1510=0A=0A=0AGreetings.=0A=0AI'm looking fo=
r detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto:=0A=0Ahttp://www.nati=
onalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=3DBARTOLOMEO%2C+Veneto&mode=3Dartist&=
frm=3D1=0A=0ASpecifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on =
the=0Acamica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now.=0A=
=0AThanks so much.=0A=0Akate=0A=0A=0A      ________________________________=
____________________________________________________=0AGet the World's numb=
er 1 free email service.=0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com.au=0A
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Hanging the shirt on a peg.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> Hi!
> 
> I was wondering... On modern shirts, in the center back, right below
> the wide pane they use for lining the shoulders, there's very often a
> little fabric loop. What is it for, or what is it an artifact of?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Audrey

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Hi!

I was wondering... On modern shirts, in the center back, right below
the wide pane they use for lining the shoulders, there's very often a
little fabric loop. What is it for, or what is it an artifact of?

Thanks!

Audrey
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ironing
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:24:06 +1000
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How do you use blueing? I have some in my cupboard.

Thanks, Aylwen


On 17/08/2007, at 2:43 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> 2A - Old fashioned bluing.  The blue will cancel out the yellowing  
> and make the fabric appear whiter.
>
> 2B - Sorry, don't know that one.
>
> Sandy
>
> At 03:40 PM 8/16/2007, you wrote:
>
>> Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 03:06:53 -0400
>> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t
>>
>> I do have a couple of question about ironing.
>>
>> 2.  I had some 100% white cotton Priscilla curtains that I need to  
>> iron.  I
>> paid a lot of money for these curtains and really love them.  In  
>> the past
>> years, I starched them to remove the wrinkles.  The last time that  
>> I washed
>> them, they were yellowed from the starch.  I bleached them but  
>> can't get rid
>> of the yellow tinge.
>> 2A.  Is there another way to get rid of the yellow tinge?
>> 2B. Is there something other than starching to assist keeping the  
>> curtains
>> crisp longer?
>>
>> Penny Ladnier,
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>  -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:26:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

the wide  pane they use for lining the shoulders


***************
 
 
BTW.... this is called a "yolk'. Not all modern shirts have  them.



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In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:57:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

BTW....  this is called a "yolk'. Not all modern shirts have   them.



*************
 
 
Hahahahaha... that should be YOKE, not yolk! I just made 2 fried eggs  and 
was eating them when I posted. Funny how the mind works.... or doesn't work  in 
this case.
 
Well at least it wasn't my usual typo of  "Waist of time"! [Is that  anything 
like "in the neck of time"?]



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:29:36 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>  
>  
> BTW.... this is called a "yolk'. Not all modern shirts have  them.
>
>   
Only ones with unsightly yellow stains :-)

(I think you mean yoke)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
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At 18:56 17/08/2007, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:26:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
>
>the wide  pane they use for lining the shoulders
>
>
>***************
>
>
>BTW.... this is called a "yolk'. Not all modern shirts have  them.


I have always thought it was a yoke, as in the thing mikmaids carry 
on the shoulders with buckets hanging off.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -  
showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?  
And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year -  
I'm trying to put a proposal together.

Thanks, Aylwen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
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How is your friend going to reproduce them?

~ Bridgette

On 8/17/07, ailith@neo.rr.com <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you. A friend of mine is going to make the tulips for me and I
> wanted to give her the best image possible.
>
> kate
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:33:38 +0200
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Hi,
Isnt that just a loop to hang up the shirt with?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 7:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...


> Hi!
> 
> I was wondering... On modern shirts, in the center back, right below
> the wide pane they use for lining the shoulders, there's very often a
> little fabric loop. What is it for, or what is it an artifact of?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
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Seriously? Wow... I was so sure it was a leftover from some weird
forgotten function... Everybody I know hangs the shirt by the collar,
not the loop, so the obvious didn't even occur to me...

Thanks!

On 8/17/07, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> Hanging the shirt on a peg.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 03:06:53 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing (Was Linen Shir)t
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <009501c7dfd4$096037f0$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> I wonder if this cooling method comes from mothers who put out their 
> laundry
> on the clothesline in the winter and the fabric froze.  I had not
> experienced the freezing laundering syndrome until we moved to Illinois. 
> My
> son's cloth diapers froze stiff on the clothesline.  From all my years of
> living in the Deep South, I had not experienced frozen laundry until then.
> We didn't have a clothes dryer in our apartment and I had to iron his
> diapers.  At the time, we were snowed in for a week.
>
> A friend of mine grew up in Nebraska.  She told me that her grandmother
> ironed everything year round.  I recall my mother ironing sheets and
> pillowcases.
>
My mother was born in a coal-mining town. She said you never hung your
washing out when the wind was blowing in certain directions because
it would turn black! My grandmother was also a mad ironer (she
probably still would be if she spent much time at home these days). She
used to iron undies and tea-towels.

Claire 

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Subject: [h-cost] Calio Day Dresses- was Vogue Tags/Label
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Hey Cynthia - I am curious if you know or if you know someone who could =
give me input on two fabrics I am thinking about using for recreations =
of Civil "warish"/frontier dresses.  Maybe a better way to ask the =
question would be where in the 1800 - 1900 period would these fabrics =
best be used and in what gown.

Got tons of both fabrics...

I tried looking at some fabric dating books, but was unable to come up =
with any "sureity" of my choices.
I love making up new words!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Cin<mailto:cinbarnes@gmail.com>=20
  To: h-cost<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Tags/Label


  At 01:44 AM 13/08/2007, you wrote:

  It's pity RJR & the Smithsonian stopped collaborating on those.  It
  was a great way to find historical prints for day dresses.
  --cin
  Cynthia Barnes
  CinBarnes@gmail.com<mailto:CinBarnes@gmail.com>
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
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  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
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Thank you. A friend of mine is going to make the tulips for me and I
wanted to give her the best image possible.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Date: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:13 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> Hi Kate,
> 
> a while back on the Italian Renaissance Costuming yahoo group, 
> Salvi posted a link to a scan she had made of this image. It's 
> HUGE...my copy is 26.4Mb.
> 
> I've done a quick search of the archives and will post it here for 
> you (be warned - it's huge!)
> 
> http://www.outoftheattic.biz/images/bartolomeo.jpg
> 
> A link to the message itself:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/message/4998
> 
> 
> Bella, The Realm of Venus
> I'm doing the World Vision 40 Hour Famine this year! Please 
> visit... http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/40HourFamine2007.htm
...to find out more.
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "ailith@neo.rr.com" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, 16 August, 2007 11:47:51 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
> 
> 
> Greetings.
> 
> I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto:
> 
>
http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Veneto&mode=artist&frm=1
> 
> Specifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on the
> camica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now.
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> kate
> 
> 
>      
>
____________________________________________________________________________________Get
the World's number 1 free email service.
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From: LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:44:22 -0700
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Yolks are for eggs.  Yokes are for shirts.  And oxen.  :-)





> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:56:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> CC:=20
>=20
> =20
> In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:26:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
> fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
>=20
> the wide  pane they use for lining the shoulders
>=20
>=20
> ***************
> =20
> =20
> BTW.... this is called a "yolk'. Not all modern shirts have  them.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AO=
L at=20
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:23:55 -0400
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In fact I've heard it referred to as a "locker loop."
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 17, 2007, at 1:38 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> Seriously? Wow... I was so sure it was a leftover from some weird
> forgotten function... Everybody I know hangs the shirt by the collar,
> not the loop, so the obvious didn't even occur to me...
>
> Thanks!
>
> On 8/17/07, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>> Hanging the shirt on a peg.
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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How about "Over, Under, Around ...Through the Ages"


>From: A Gardiner-Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:35:44 +1000
>
>I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -  
>showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?  And 
>ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year -  I'm trying 
>to put a proposal together.
>
>Thanks, Aylwen
>_______________________________________________
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_________________________________________________________________
A new home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here. 
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:18:53 -0700
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Audrey,
When I was growing up in the Pleistocene, my brothers told me they were 
called "fairy hooks", and were there for the purpose of grabbing  (and 
ripping the guy's shirt, I suppose).  No idea what they might be a remnant 
of though.  Here's some more on the phrase (scroll down to see "fruit loop" 
and "fag tag"):

http://wordwizard.com/ch_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19517&

Laurie


>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
>Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:11:10 -0400
>
>Hi!
>
>I was wondering... On modern shirts, in the center back, right below
>the wide pane they use for lining the shoulders, there's very often a
>little fabric loop. What is it for, or what is it an artifact of?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Audrey
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Great scan!  I too was almost positive I'd seen a larger image posted on 
some list somewhere, though I could easily be thinking of some other chemise 
with similar black ribbons.

It looks to me like the black ribbons are laced through loops on the stem 
end of each tulip, so surely the tulips will need to be metal-based for this 
to work, right?  The loops appear to hold their shape rather than pulling 
out of shape under the pressure, which screams metal to me.

-E House
(I've really got to start experimenting with cast pewter.) 

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Will they be enameled or is she going the embroidery route?

De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you. A friend of mine is going to make the tulips for me and I
wanted to give her the best image possible.

kate


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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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>I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -
>showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?
>Thanks, Aylwen

Well, the undergarments section should be called "A Brief History".

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>=0ASub=
ject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510=0A<snip> =0A>>>It l=
ooks to me like the black ribbons are laced through loops on the stem =0Aen=
d of each tulip, so surely the tulips will need to be metal-based for this =
=0Ato work, right?  The loops appear to hold their shape rather than pullin=
g =0Aout of shape under the pressure, which screams metal to me.<<<=0A=0A=
=0AYep, I agree. Definitely metal, and enamel. I would guess that pure gold=
 would be too soft, but brass doesn't seem quite right. Anyone know whether=
 gold plated silver existed in this period (early 16th century)? I'm not su=
re if I'm correctly remembering a reference to gold coated/plated/covered s=
ilver, akin to our moderm vermeil.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ABella, The Realm of Venus=
=0AI'm doing the World Vision 40 Hour Famine this year! Please visit... htt=
p://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/40HourFamine2007.htm ...to find out m=
ore.=0A=0A=0A      ________________________________________________________=
____________________________=0AFeel safe with award winning spam protection=
 on Yahoo!7 Mail.=0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com.au=0A
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Aniline Dyes
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Can anyone please point me to a webpage that states when aniline dyes =
were no longer used in clothing and perfumes.  I did a search on Google =
and haven't come up with an exact date.

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:20:03 -0500
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A weak sub would be to make embroidered appliques, then attaching a metal
ring towards the stem end and thread cover the ring. Then applique the tulip
to the camicia.

De


----- Original Message ----
>>>It looks to me like the black ribbons are laced through loops on the stem
end of each tulip, so surely the tulips will need to be metal-based for this
to work, right?  The loops appear to hold their shape rather than pulling
out of shape under the pressure, which screams metal to me.<<<


Yep, I agree. Definitely metal, and enamel. I would guess that pure gold
would be too soft, but brass doesn't seem quite right. Anyone know whether
gold plated silver existed in this period (early 16th century)? I'm not sure
if I'm correctly remembering a reference to gold coated/plated/covered
silver, akin to our moderm vermeil.
Bella, The Realm of Venus


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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
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----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>=0ASubject:=
 RE: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510=0A=0A>>>A weak sub would=
 be to make embroidered appliques, then attaching a metal=0Aring towards th=
e stem end and thread cover the ring. Then applique the tulip=0Ato the cami=
cia.<<<=0A=0A=0ABrilliant! That would work a treat. :-)=0A=0A=0A=0ABella=0A=
=0A=0A      _______________________________________________________________=
_____________________=0ASick of deleting your inbox? Yahoo!7 Mail has free =
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A dear friend of mine is going to cast pewter tulips for me. Since the
gown that I made is amethyst, silver/pewter will look very spiff. I'm
also planning to color the  tulips - a friend of mine makes SCA award
medallions and paints them. They still look metallic, but the color is
nice and even.

kate

PS: Thanks so much for the posting of the large image. I do appreciate it!

----- Original Message -----
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Date: Friday, August 17, 2007 11:35 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> ----- Original Message ----
> From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
> 
> >>>A weak sub would be to make embroidered appliques, then 
> attaching a metal
> ring towards the stem end and thread cover the ring. Then applique 
> the tulip
> to the camicia.<<<
> 
> 
> Brilliant! That would work a treat. :-)
> 
> 
> 
> Bella
> 
> 
>      
>
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of  image ca. 1510
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "ailith@neo.rr.com" <ailith@neo.rr.com>=
=0ASubject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510=0A=0A>>>A dea=
r friend of mine is going to cast pewter tulips for me. Since the=0Agown th=
at I made is amethyst, silver/pewter will look very spiff. I'm=0Aalso plann=
ing to color the  tulips - a friend of mine makes SCA award=0Amedallions an=
d paints them. They still look metallic, but the color is=0Anice and even.<=
<<=0A=0AThat will look gorgeous! Amethyst and silver - YUM! =0A=0AI have fr=
iends that are great with brass and pewter, and I must admit I've been thin=
king of showing this to them and asking if they could make me some in eithe=
r brass or vermeil, simply because I prefer gold and love it with black lik=
e in the portrait. I wonder if painting pewter with gold paint would work. =
=0A=0A=0A>>>PS: Thanks so much for the posting of the large image. I do app=
reciate it!<<<<=0A=0AOh, you're very welcome, and I'm glad it's been of hel=
p, but it was Salvi's scan to begin with, she deserves the thanks. :-)=0A=
=0A=0A=0ABella=0A=0A=0A      ______________________________________________=
______________________________________=0ASick of deleting your inbox? Yahoo=
!7 Mail has free unlimited storage.=0Ahttp://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/unlimit=
edstorage.html=0A
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
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Its a remnant before hangers when clothes were just hung up.

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 8/17/2007 12:18:53 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
>
> Audrey,
> When I was growing up in the Pleistocene, my brothers told me they were 
> called "fairy hooks", and were there for the purpose of grabbing  (and 
> ripping the guy's shirt, I suppose).  No idea what they might be a
remnant 
> of though.  Here's some more on the phrase (scroll down to see "fruit
loop" 
> and "fag tag"):
>
> http://wordwizard.com/ch_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19517&
>
> Laurie
>
>
> >From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: [h-cost] Modern shirt construction question...
> >Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:11:10 -0400
> >
> >Hi!
> >
> >I was wondering... On modern shirts, in the center back, right below
> >the wide pane they use for lining the shoulders, there's very often a
> >little fabric loop. What is it for, or what is it an artifact of?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >Audrey
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 10:51:26 -0400
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My grandmother did the "dampen and chill" method for ironing the cotton
muslin curtains in our house. She made them for every room, including
the mile-a-minute crochet lace to go on them. After she got too old to
do it, my mother took up the tradition. Me, I barely have curtains at
all, and the ones I do are not the ironing kind. 

I always thought they did it because they couldn't get to the whole
stack of curtains at once, so putting them in the refrigerator kept any
chance of mildewing from happening. (We didn't have AC at that time)
That, and having the fabric uniformly damp was faster and easier than
refilling the water reservoir on the iron all the time. 

Just now, I found this on the web- 

<begin>
This is quoted from the book Laundry by Robert Doyle- he founded the
wardrobe dept of a live theater and also was one of the first
instructors at Costume Studies at Dalhousie University.   He gives the
reason for chilling the fabrics.

"after drying, garments to be ironed are best sprinkled with warm water
to dampen them thoroughly, then each garment rolled up into a tight
ball, placing each into a plastic bag and into the refrigerator for a
couple of hours so that the items are thoroughly dampened and chilled.
.... then with a dry iron, set at the cotton setting, proceed to iron
out the wrinkles ...   the dampened and chilled garments will iron more
efficiently since the iron glides effortlessly over the chilled fabric."

He also writes that heavier irons work better than lightweight ones and
that a dry iron with a mist bottle works better than a steam iron.  This
is on cotton and linen fabrics.
<end>

So, still no date or "ah ha" moment, but one can deduce that the
practice must have started sometime after refrigerators became common
household appliances. It would not have been mentioned in a book in 1894
because people were still using actual ice boxes at that time, which
really weren't big enough to toss in sheets and such! At least that's my
theory, YMMV. :D 
(Interesting info on the history of refrigerators, here:
http://www.history.com/exhibits/modern/fridge.html) 

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 1:20 AM

I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated.
Some 
of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me 
wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the 
generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and 
cooling the linen is not mentioned.

Penny Ladnier,


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 21:11:29 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen
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Just wanted to let you know that the ironing of my cambric linnen went very 
well. I sprayed it with water and took it into a plastic bag for the night, 
and it was ready.
Worked like a dream. Maybe also because it is such a fine weave and light. 
Its going to be my best shirt and stock cravats ever...............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:33:01 -0700
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> Linda Quoting Robert Doyle:
> He also writes that heavier irons work better than lightweight ones and
> that a dry iron with a mist bottle works better than a steam iron.  This
> is on cotton and linen fabrics.

I have found that I want the heaviest iron I can find when I have to do it.
The heavier iron discourages the wrinkles better than the "feather-weights"
that they brought out in the 1950's or so.  Of course I don't have anything
like the amount of ironing that my mother used to.

Thankfully most of my clothing is wash and wear or wash and touch up.  I'm
old fashioned enough that I usually iron clothing, but it's usually just
before I put it on.  Sheets can un-wrinkle on the bed even though most are
permanent press now.  My lace curtains are genuine dead dinosaur and the
wrinkles fall out if I just hang them while damp with the little plastic
roller hooks that I brought back from Germany.

Regina

>

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Hi all!

Later this year I expect to costume a modern play (present time) featuring cowboys and others.
The characters are:
   a real cowboy
   a very youthful wannabe cowboy
   a dude ranch cowboy
   an English professor disguised as a cowboy
   a small town barfly
   a TV cameraman
and,
   a woman barkeep
   a college student waitress (female)
   a woman television documentary producer
   a modern camp following floozie
Setting is a small dried up western town.

The costume plots are done, all pieces and colors set,except for a Saturday night at the bar for the floozie. I thought it would be fun to have your ideas and information before doing the renderings. I seldom do a modern piece and you gave me great help the last time you were consulted, that I wanted to invite you to try this. Thank you.
Audy - achasedesign
   
   

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Just a test
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battery operated small but powerful desk fanAND the batteries fo run it
  +
  elbow of PVC pipe
  +
  Styrofoam cooler just big enough for one package of block ice
  +
  large block of ice
  +
  one very sharp knife
   
  e-mail me if you need "distructions" to go along with this "parts list"
  it made the 10-15 degrees difference in my pavillion at night so i could sew with my ttreadle and only break a sweat as upposed to pass out from the heat!
  Bambi
  

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent ceiling fans.
:)

-----Original Message-----
Definitely too much rain. When not raining, too much heat and
humidity! But I had a great time all the same.

Melanie Schuessler


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Thank you Linda for the Robert Doyle source.  I don't think my mother had a 
frig when she was growing up. Her mother was very old-fashioned, so I am 
curious for her response.

My mother visits us for two months every year.  Last year, she taught me how 
to starch the 1950s petticoats and dollies.  Oh, how I hated wearing those 
scratchy petticoats when I was little.  But the starching dollies stiff 
really works!  Mom said that the dollies with special designs like ripples 
will stand up for six months.  And the ones we starched did.  She said 
during the six months when they get dusty just pick them up and shake them. 
I did this and they keep their form!

I also liked the frig history webpage you recommended.  Thank goodness for 
the frost-free frig!  Boy, I hated to defrost the frig and freezer when I 
was a kid!  It was my chore.

This is way off topic but it deals with the ice...
I am hooked on the Modern Marvels show this summer.  This week one episode 
was about the history of tea.  It was really interesting.  They quoted that 
the U.S. is the only country that drinks tea with ice.  Why is the U.S. the 
only one?  Who came up with the idea of drinking tea with ice?  Our family 
has been discussing this all week.  We are serious ice tea drinkers.  My 
last trip to England, I visited some of my costumer friends.  I was dying 
for ice tea.  I asked them if I could make some.  I wish I had a video 
camera for their reaction while watching my son and me drink a half gallon 
of ice in a few hours.  They just thought that we were destroying the art of 
drinking tea. My husband declares the Mason/Dixon line is in Fredericksburg, 
VA.  He is a real Southern Gent and needs to have his sweet ice tea with 
lunch and dinner.  When we travel to DC, the last place he can get sweet tea 
is Fredericksburg.  And we hear him gripe if we eat a meal in DC because of 
the unsweet tea. I kept waiting in the Modern Marvel show for them to 
discuss the ice tea history.  But they never did.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re :tea
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Oh Linda... hmmm... the Lipton factory is your neck of the road.  From 
Modern Marvels tea episode:
http://www.history.com/shows.do?action=detail&episodeId=214205

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Ice, was: ironing washed linen and misc.
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Years ago, I visited Germany and was amazed that a good deal of the
country drank soft drinks at room temperature. When I was visiting
Berlin, we went out to an Italian restaurant for dinner. I had a heck of
a time making the waiter understand that I wanted tap water with ice in
it! He looked at me like I had suddenly sprouted another head. :-)

I got the same reaction in London when I requested iced water at
breakfast. The staff got used to the request and began bringing a
pitcher of iced water every morning.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:17 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen and misc.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> Thank you Linda for the Robert Doyle source.  I don't think my 
> mother had a 
> frig when she was growing up. Her mother was very old-fashioned, so 
> I am 
> curious for her response.
> 
> My mother visits us for two months every year.  Last year, she 
> taught me how 
> to starch the 1950s petticoats and dollies.  Oh, how I hated 
> wearing those 
> scratchy petticoats when I was little.  But the starching dollies 
> stiff 
> really works!  Mom said that the dollies with special designs like 
> ripples 
> will stand up for six months.  And the ones we starched did.  She 
> said 
> during the six months when they get dusty just pick them up and 
> shake them. 
> I did this and they keep their form!
> 
> I also liked the frig history webpage you recommended.  Thank 
> goodness for 
> the frost-free frig!  Boy, I hated to defrost the frig and freezer 
> when I 
> was a kid!  It was my chore.
> 
> This is way off topic but it deals with the ice...
> I am hooked on the Modern Marvels show this summer.  This week one 
> episode 
> was about the history of tea.  It was really interesting.  They 
> quoted that 
> the U.S. is the only country that drinks tea with ice.  Why is the 
> U.S. the 
> only one?  Who came up with the idea of drinking tea with ice?  Our 
> family 
> has been discussing this all week.  We are serious ice tea 
> drinkers.  My 
> last trip to England, I visited some of my costumer friends.  I was 
> dying 
> for ice tea.  I asked them if I could make some.  I wish I had a 
> video 
> camera for their reaction while watching my son and me drink a half 
> gallon 
> of ice in a few hours.  They just thought that we were destroying 
> the art of 
> drinking tea. My husband declares the Mason/Dixon line is in 
> Fredericksburg, 
> VA.  He is a real Southern Gent and needs to have his sweet ice tea 
> with 
> lunch and dinner.  When we travel to DC, the last place he can get 
> sweet tea 
> is Fredericksburg.  And we hear him gripe if we eat a meal in DC 
> because of 
> the unsweet tea. I kept waiting in the Modern Marvel show for them 
> to 
> discuss the ice tea history.  But they never did.
> 
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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I 'm going to eventually use the sand silk herringbone suiting,,,

...but for a draft/muslin/version-I'm-willing-to-wear-if-it-turns-out I 
found a green/yellow windowpane plaid that will definitely make striking 
hakama and (if the yardage alllows) a nice kataginu...

andy

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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Oh Linda... hmmm... the Lipton factory is your neck of the road.  From 
> Modern Marvels tea episode:
> http://www.history.com/shows.do?action=detail&episodeId=214205

How did I miss this?

The _Good Eats_ tea episode is a miracle...

andy

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Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 08:52:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] So on the whole Japanese question...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:

> I 'm going to eventually use the sand silk
> herringbone suiting,,,
> 
> ...but for a
>
draft/muslin/version-I'm-willing-to-wear-if-it-turns-out
> I 
> found a green/yellow windowpane plaid that will
> definitely make striking 
> hakama and (if the yardage alllows) a nice
> kataginu...
> 
> andy

I sure hope you will wear that at one point at Costume
Con next spring, 'cause I want to see it.

The use of plaids in Japanese clothing is seriously
underrepresented in western recreations. :)

Ann in CT


       
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Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ice, was: ironing washed linen and misc.
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On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:

> Years ago, I visited Germany and was amazed that a good deal of the
> country drank soft drinks at room temperature. When I was visiting
> Berlin, we went out to an Italian restaurant for dinner. I had a heck
> of a time making the waiter understand that I wanted tap water with
> ice in it! He looked at me like I had suddenly sprouted another head.
> :-)
> 
> I got the same reaction in London when I requested iced water at
> breakfast. The staff got used to the request and began bringing a
> pitcher of iced water every morning.

Heh. In most cases, I prefer my drinks without ice. So I loved it in
England because I never had to say "no ice" the way I do here (and half
the time in the US, the wait staff forget and bring me iced drinks
anyway). I routinely confused English wait staff, though; I could pass for
a Brit till I opened my mouth, when my American accent was obvious -- but
wait, no ice, maybe she's not American after all...

I endeared myself to the staff on a British Airways flight by asking for
lemon squash, no ice, for my drink. Americans never ask for squash, but
they keep it on board for the occasional Brit who does. At the end of the
flight the steward pressed the rest of his bottle of squash concentrate in
my hand as a gift. You can buy it here in the US, but typically as a
"gourmet" item, and expensive. (Ditto with demerara sugar, used
routinely for coffee in England but obscenely expensive.)

Back to costume, sort of:  The key to passing as a Brit, at least a decade
or two ago, was the shoes. I wore Clarks or similar walking shoes, not
athletic shoes. American tourists typically wore white athletic shoes. It
might not be so obvious a difference now, as black athletic shoes and many
other styles of walking shoes are more popular in the US now. I was shoe
shopping this week for the first time in ages, and saw Skechers with
athletic-shoe soles and construction, but tops that looked like casual
flats.

--Robin


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Robin wrote:
(Ditto with demerara sugar, used
> routinely for coffee in England but obscenely expensive.)

I get bags of paper tubes of Demerara sugar (Domino brand) for 
$0.70/bag at the local Big Lots.  The stores are all over the place- 
their store locator is here: 
http://www.biglots.com/store_locator.aspx

You could also try Sugar-in-the-Raw.  It's similar, and you can 
get it in the supermarket for about twice the price of regular sugar.

                  -Helen/Aidan

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
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On Sun, 19 Aug 2007, Helen Pinto wrote:

> I get bags of paper tubes of Demerara sugar (Domino brand) for
> $0.70/bag at the local Big Lots.  The stores are all over the place-
> their store locator is here:  
> http://www.biglots.com/store_locator.aspx

Oh, thanks! That product was discontinued in my local grocery. (I bought a
bunch when it got marked down, but it's good to know it's still out
there.)

> You could also try Sugar-in-the-Raw.  It's similar, and you can 
> get it in the supermarket for about twice the price of regular sugar.

Not quite the same, and my husband (who developed a taste for real
demerara in England) maintains he can tell the difference. ;-)

--Robin

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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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I hate ice in my soda because it makes flat and watery, so whenever I'm at a 
restaurant I ask for soda, no ice.  The annoying thing, though, is that they 
pour the soda from the same container as the soda with ice, so I'm still 
getting flat, watery soda.  Argh.  One of the many reasons I am slowly but 
surely switching to tea.

Costume content... uhm... uh... Ohyeah.  I'm saving all my used tea bags for 
future dying projects!  And I'm learning which types of tea dye what color.

-E House 

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From: LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:20:10 -0700
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If you really like the sticks (I'm more partial to turbinado, myself), you =
can try dominosugar.com--type in your zip code and they'll tell you the clo=
sest place to buy them.  If you want it in bulk, try bulkfoods.com--you can=
 buy it in 1 lb., 5 lb., or 50 lb. bags.  Personally, I'm a big fan of bulk=
foods.com.  Wheat gluten, powdered honey, arrowroot, all kinds of flours...=
. lots of fun experimenting there.

LuAnn



> Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:30:19 -0500
> From: robin@netherton.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
> CC:=20
>=20
>=20
> On Sun, 19 Aug 2007, Helen Pinto wrote:
>=20
> > I get bags of paper tubes of Demerara sugar (Domino brand) for
> > $0.70/bag at the local Big Lots.  The stores are all over the place-
> > their store locator is here: =20
> > http://www.biglots.com/store_locator.aspx
>=20
> Oh, thanks! That product was discontinued in my local grocery. (I bought =
a
> bunch when it got marked down, but it's good to know it's still out
> there.)
>=20
> > You could also try Sugar-in-the-Raw.  It's similar, and you can=20
> > get it in the supermarket for about twice the price of regular sugar.
>=20
> Not quite the same, and my husband (who developed a taste for real
> demerara in England) maintains he can tell the difference. ;-)
>=20
> --Robin
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ice, was: ironing washed linen and misc.
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I have never liked ice in my drinks and, like you, always requested it without and usually got it anyway in the US. We moved to England last January and now I love that I can get soda the way I like it. But... they always ask if I want ice or lemon in my pepsi/coke. At first, I thought it was because they heard my American accent and assumed I would want ice, but I found out that they are required to ask everyone. I don't live in a touristy area either.
   
  Teena 

Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:
  
Heh. In most cases, I prefer my drinks without ice. So I loved it in
England because I never had to say "no ice" the way I do here 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
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So what is Demara sugar anyway? Sugar in the Raw is cane sugar from Hawaii  
that is not as refined as white sugar...so has some molasses still in it. Is  
Demara like granulated jaggery?...which is also made from cane I think. There's 
 another Indian sugar made from dates or something like that. What is it 
called?  Sur? or Siir? Gur?
 
Can you starch a ruff with any of this? [trying to tie it into costuming,  
y'know....]
 
BTW, you can get jaggery on Amazon.com. I was gonna make chikki [sesame  
brittle] one Christmas, but never did. Hmmmm...Maybe this year.
Demara sugar is also available at Amazon I see...in cubes and in a 1lb  bag.



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
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At 10:54 AM 20/08/2007, you wrote:
>So what is Demara sugar anyway? Sugar in the Raw is cane sugar from Hawaii
>that is not as refined as white sugar...so has some molasses still in it. Is
>
>

I have no idea what the equivalent of demara for the US is (or 
anywhere apart from UK/NZ/Australia) but this (UK) webpage has a list 
of definitions for various sugars and syrups.
http://www.deliaonline.com/ingredients/sugars-and-syrups,244,IN.html
But it doesn't list Raw sugar though. Maybe raw is golden granulated 
and golden caster? Just thinking that because I've seen every other 
sugar  listed there sold in Australia except golden and with the 
addition of raw sugar.

Sharon

>Can you starch a ruff with any of this? [trying to tie it into costuming,
>y'know....]

The idea of a starching a ruff with demara just brings to my mind a 
possible side effect of sugar waxing.

Sharon 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re :tea
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Andy,

Modern Marvels also runs marathons during the afternoon hours.  I turn on 
History International (HI) while I am working late at night. They run the 
Modern Marvels series late at night.  They repeat a lot of the History 
Channels shows on HI.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re OT: :tea
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My email to the list about tea:
Our British friends will love this one.  Snapple has bottled cold tea and 
has a large varieties of flavors.  They are now selling Earl Grey tea.  A 
very funny advertisement for this on YouTube 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sky6wceYyg0 .

The Modern Marvel show about tea includes the history of China tea industry, 
East India Trading Company, Boston Tea Party, etc.

The tea plantation near Charleston, South Carolina is over 200 years old and 
the only existing tea plantation in the U.S.

Tea and coffee grounds are good to use in potted house plants.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 00:36:34 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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More on Demerara-
I was in my local supermarket this afternoon getting baking soda
for the fridge, and guess what was on the shelf next to the brown 
sugar and confectioners' sugar?  Re-sealable pound sacks of 
Domino brand Demerara sugar for $2.29.  
This is not an upscale foodie market, just a regular Giant Eagle.
Yours may have it, too.
                     -Helen/Aidan

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I put thin fishing line in the outside edge of the ruffle of my new chemise.
Went through the wash just fine, just needed a little finger tweaking,
dripped dry. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 1:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] linen vs. cotton; was: Just a test

Ooh.  I'm not much of a camper, but I've already got plans for next time to
make things a bit better.  I'll add that to the list.

On a costume note, I would like to once again put in a vote for linen  
over cotton as being the coolest thing around when it's ghastly hot.   
I could definitely tell the difference between my old cotton chemises and my
new linen ones!  And my new kirtles are all linen as well, thank goodness.

Also, though I haven't put it through the wash a bunch of times yet, I have
hopes for my new linen shirt, which has a ruffle at the top of the collar.
My old cotton one turns into a bunch of tiny crinkles every time I wash it,
and I have to iron it out and spray-starch it to get it to behave nicely.
Note that these are not starched ruffs in the formal figure eights, just
small ruffles.  The new linen one is cut with the long edge of the ruffle on
the long grain of the fabric (parallel to the selvedge), which is what
Arnold noted in her study of existing 17th-century ruffs.  Even in the
horrifying heat and humidity--I think I got wet in the rain, too--that
ruffle stayed nice and sproingy (that's a technical term).  Even though it
will soften with repeated washings, I think the relative stiffness of the
linen and the strength of the grain will help hold it out better than the
cotton one.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 13, 2007, at 12:54 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent ceiling 
> fans.
> :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and 
> humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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"The Way We Wore" 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?

I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -
showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?  
And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - I'm
trying to put a proposal together.

Thanks, Aylwen
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Demara sugar, Was Ice
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On Mon, 20 Aug 2007, Helen Pinto wrote:

> I was in my local supermarket this afternoon getting baking soda
> for the fridge, and guess what was on the shelf next to the brown 
> sugar and confectioners' sugar?  Re-sealable pound sacks of 
> Domino brand Demerara sugar for $2.29.  
> This is not an upscale foodie market, just a regular Giant Eagle.
> Yours may have it, too.

In the last few years I've seen it at some supermarkets. (Haven't seen the
bags here in St. Louis; the local stores tried the Domino tube packets,
and discontinued them; I think no one here had any idea what they'd be
used for.) Even so, it's sold at gourmet prices. Domino's line is cheaper
than most, but it's still pretty expensive.

Right now, at Tesco (the UK equivalent of Giant), a kilo bag of demerara
is as low as 1.09 pounds sterling -- which translates to about 90 cents US
per pound (weight). For comparison, at Tesco the white granulated sugar is
72 pence per kilo (64 cents per pound), and brown sugar is 99 pence per
kilo (89 cents per pound). So it's barely more expensive than other sugars
in the UK. (I'm quoting the cheapest store-brand price on all of these.)
In the U.S., food prices are generally lower, and I get white sugar for 40
cents per pound, and brown sugar for 50 cents per pound when I catch a
sale. So $2.29 per pound bag of demerara makes it a luxury sugar.

Fortunately I see British friends at least once a year, and someone
usually has a bag of demerara stashed in their luggage for me.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: coffee (was: sugar)
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How much coffee grounds is too much? Does it have to be mixed into the
dirt or can you add it to something already in the pot?

I generate a lot of coffee grounds - if the have further use I'd love
to know how!

Allison T.

On 8/20/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:42:37 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re OT: :tea
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003c01c7e2dc$27a84490$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>         reply-type=response
>
> My email to the list about tea:
> Our British friends will love this one.  Snapple has bottled cold tea and
> has a large varieties of flavors.  They are now selling Earl Grey tea.  A
> very funny advertisement for this on YouTube
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sky6wceYyg0 .
>
> The Modern Marvel show about tea includes the history of China tea industry,
> East India Trading Company, Boston Tea Party, etc.
>
> The tea plantation near Charleston, South Carolina is over 200 years old and
> the only existing tea plantation in the U.S.
>
> Tea and coffee grounds are good to use in potted house plants.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 14:31:07 -0400
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: coffee (was: sugar)
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How much coffee grounds is too much? Does it have to be mixed into the
dirt or can you add it to something already in the pot?

I generate a lot of coffee grounds - if the have further use I'd love
to know how!

Allison T.

On 8/20/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:42:37 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re OT: :tea
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003c01c7e2dc$27a84490$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>         reply-type=response
>
> My email to the list about tea:
> Our British friends will love this one.  Snapple has bottled cold tea and
> has a large varieties of flavors.  They are now selling Earl Grey tea.  A
> very funny advertisement for this on YouTube
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sky6wceYyg0 .
>
> The Modern Marvel show about tea includes the history of China tea industry,
> East India Trading Company, Boston Tea Party, etc.
>
> The tea plantation near Charleston, South Carolina is over 200 years old and
> the only existing tea plantation in the U.S.
>
> Tea and coffee grounds are good to use in potted house plants.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Save the date -- Oregon lecture event
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(OK to forward this post to individuals and other lists.)

For those who may be interested: I'll be doing a day of lectures in
Eugene, Oregon, on Saturday, October 20. The official announcement is due
out soon, and I'll update the list when it's posted, but I figured some
people might need the extra notice.

I'll be speaking on these topics:

 -- The Gothic Fitted Dress
 -- The Greenland Gored Gown
 -- The Fifteenth-Century V-neck Gown
 -- When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume Sources
 -- Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for Costume
	Research

(I realize many of you have already seen some of these lectures, but then,
apparently plenty of people haven't, as this was what the hosting group
requested!)

This is half of a two-day event. On Sunday, October 21, the speaker will
be Tammie Dupuis of The Renaissance Tailor. I do not know her topics, I'm
afraid.

I have no idea what the fee will be or whether you pay for the two days
separately or both together. When the announcement comes, we'll all find
out.

However, if you want to be on the waiting list and get direct
notification, you can send a request to Jamie Parker,
jparker@mid-valley.com .

More when I know more.


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@netherton.net

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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:13:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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WELLLL
I was going to suggest, 
The once and future fashion but my goodness...If I were picking,
"The Way We Wore" is much much better.....
oh wait...nobody asked me to vote.., still Sharon, that is Brilliant!

Bambi

Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: "The Way We Wore" 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?

I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -
showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?  
And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - I'm
trying to put a proposal together.

Thanks, Aylwen
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---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
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I went to England the first week of June (great trip but too short) with a school trip from Atlanta and I was surprised to find that in most of the restaurants I was able to get Diet Coke with one ice cube and a slice of lemon--just the way I like it and never asked for it that way. Most drinks are cold from the fountain/dispenser so I didn't need extra ice. 
However, we did have one from our group ask for sweet iced tea and it caused a major production number. The Georgian was able to get the sweet iced tea but when our tour guide wanted one to try that seemed to have been a major act of treason and they refused to serve him one.
At least I was able to get Coke as a back up option but at home I drink Diet Coke 1/2 the time, sweet tea 1/2 the time.
You think it's hard finding sweet tea North of the Mason-Dixon line? Try finding sweet tea in Florida! Once you get south of the panhandle you are no longer in the South as far as food and drink are concerned. I did run into one nice waiter in Orlando who was from Georgia and he agreed to make me a pitcher of sweet tea. He got a nice tip!




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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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Isn't that already a book? would there be any copyright problems using it?

Lynn

On 8/19/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> "The Way We Wore"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>
> I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -
> showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?
> And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - I'm
> trying to put a proposal together.
>
> Thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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I agree, I liked it a lot! I just wondered.... no flame meant.
Luckily, Sharon knows me and knows I wouldn't get snippy at her.

Lynn

On 8/20/07, Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com> wrote:
> WELLLL
> I was going to suggest,
> The once and future fashion but my goodness...If I were picking,
> "The Way We Wore" is much much better.....
> oh wait...nobody asked me to vote.., still Sharon, that is Brilliant!
>
> Bambi
>
> Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: "The Way We Wore"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>
> I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade -
> showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?
> And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - I'm
> trying to put a proposal together.
>
> Thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
> Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:20:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen , the question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Question,
Does anyone have (for lack of a better term) a "recipe" for setting pleats in linen with vinegar?
I know it can be done..I know the Ancient Egyptians did it to crystal pleat their shear linen, and I know the Turks seemed to have it down in the 16th c to  do their shirts but i have no idea what the proportions might be the the general concept of breaking down the cellulose ,to then set what ever it was you were setting and then rinse it out, is a sound chemical concept.
Oh and anyone have sources for sheer linen?
Bambi

Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: I put thin fishing line in the outside edge of the ruffle of my new chemise.
Went through the wash just fine, just needed a little finger tweaking,
dripped dry. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 1:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] linen vs. cotton; was: Just a test

Ooh.  I'm not much of a camper, but I've already got plans for next time to
make things a bit better.  I'll add that to the list.

On a costume note, I would like to once again put in a vote for linen  
over cotton as being the coolest thing around when it's ghastly hot.   
I could definitely tell the difference between my old cotton chemises and my
new linen ones!  And my new kirtles are all linen as well, thank goodness.

Also, though I haven't put it through the wash a bunch of times yet, I have
hopes for my new linen shirt, which has a ruffle at the top of the collar.
My old cotton one turns into a bunch of tiny crinkles every time I wash it,
and I have to iron it out and spray-starch it to get it to behave nicely.
Note that these are not starched ruffs in the formal figure eights, just
small ruffles.  The new linen one is cut with the long edge of the ruffle on
the long grain of the fabric (parallel to the selvedge), which is what
Arnold noted in her study of existing 17th-century ruffs.  Even in the
horrifying heat and humidity--I think I got wet in the rain, too--that
ruffle stayed nice and sproingy (that's a technical term).  Even though it
will soften with repeated washings, I think the relative stiffness of the
linen and the strength of the grain will help hold it out better than the
cotton one.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 13, 2007, at 12:54 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Small note for the future. Coleman makes battery operated tent ceiling 
> fans.
> :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Definitely too much rain.  When not raining, too much heat and 
> humidity!  But I had a great time all the same.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>
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--- Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I was going to suggest, 
> The once and future fashion but my goodness...If I
> were picking,
> "The Way We Wore" is much much better.....
> oh wait...nobody asked me to vote.., still Sharon,
> that is Brilliant!
> 
> Bambi
> 
> Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: "The
> Way We Wore" 

Costume-Con 18, in Hartford, CT, a few years back, had
the Once and Future Fashion Show, with the Historical
Masquerade (a costume contest) and the Future Fashion
Folio Fashion show, and a few other little odds &
ends.  Very successful show, and nobody had to get
organized to attend 'another' show.

Ann in CT


       
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:37:36 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Save the date -- Oregon lecture event
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I took the first 3 lectures listed here, plus Robin's sideless surcoat
class, and they and she are AWESOME!! :-D

Also of note, if anyone's going to be in the Portland OR area the weekend
prior--the Rivers campus of the University of Ithra will be hosting a
Roving To Rainment Ithra Oct 13-14. For more information, check back at
www.ithra.antir.sca.org  The info will be going up soon. All classes are
pre-registration, and you will be able to register online.

It's going to be a great week for costuming, folks!

Robin, do you know if people are going to be able to register for the
separate lectures?

Arlys,
Regent, Rivers Ithra

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:41:19 -0500 (CDT) Robin Netherton
<robin@netherton.net> writes:
> 
> (OK to forward this post to individuals and other lists.)
> 
> For those who may be interested: I'll be doing a day of lectures in
> Eugene, Oregon, on Saturday, October 20. The official announcement 
> is due
> out soon, and I'll update the list when it's posted, but I figured 
> some
> people might need the extra notice.
> 
> I'll be speaking on these topics:
> 
>  -- The Gothic Fitted Dress
>  -- The Greenland Gored Gown
>  -- The Fifteenth-Century V-neck Gown
>  -- When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume 
> Sources
>  -- Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for 
> Costume
> 	Research
> 
> (I realize many of you have already seen some of these lectures, but 
> then,
> apparently plenty of people haven't, as this was what the hosting 
> group
> requested!)
> 
> This is half of a two-day event. On Sunday, October 21, the speaker 
> will
> be Tammie Dupuis of The Renaissance Tailor. I do not know her 
> topics, I'm
> afraid.
> 
> I have no idea what the fee will be or whether you pay for the two 
> days
> separately or both together. When the announcement comes, we'll all 
> find
> out.
> 
> However, if you want to be on the waiting list and get direct
> notification, you can send a request to Jamie Parker,
> jparker@mid-valley.com .
> 
> More when I know more.
> 
> 
> ==========================================================
> Robin Netherton 
> Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
> robin@netherton.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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The posting regarding coffee and tea left-overs on plants reminds me of using 
them as dyes (I have taken white elastic to a skin-tone with tea);

The story that really came to mind, though, comes from an old friend who was 
stationed in Darwin (northern Australia) early in World War Two.

There was little belief the Japanese would attack the mainland so little 
preparation was made and sailors mostly wore thier bright tropical whites.

After the first attack on Darwin, requests were made to naval headquarters for 
less visible uniforms for combat conditions. Headquarters sent back the simple 
signal, boil all uniforms in coffee grounds,

-C.


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Lynn Downward wrote:
> Isn't that already a book? would there be any copyright problems using it?
> 

AFAIK titles are not subject to copyrights. Hence the number of books 
titled "Costume".

http://www.copyright.gov/circs/circ34.html



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coffee, not just for house plants
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In a message dated 8/20/2007 9:10:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

After  the first attack on Darwin, requests were made to naval headquarters 
for  
less visible uniforms for combat conditions. Headquarters sent back the  
simple 
signal, boil all uniforms in coffee  grounds,




*************
 
I love stories like that.
 
When I was working on a show that took place in 1865 in Georgia after the  
War had ended. The designer wanted most of the women in black, because just  
about everyone had lost someone in the War and was in mourning of some kind.  
Some of the gowns were made from plaids and florals and then overdyed with a  
black-brown. The idea was women who had lost almost everything because of the  
war...including family members... were dying their regular things with  black 
walnut husks for mourning.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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On Mon, 20 Aug 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> I took the first 3 lectures listed here, plus Robin's sideless surcoat
> class, and they and she are AWESOME!! :-D

<blush>

> Robin, do you know if people are going to be able to register for the
> separate lectures?

No clue. Yet. I'll let you all know more when I know more.

(I just show up with my slides and notes and costumes and pray there's a
projector, screen, and coffee.)

--Robin

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee
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Allison,

My mother taught to just add them to the soil's surface.  We always added it 
after the coffee grounds had cooled.  I have had some house plants for over 
20 years.

I have a very green thumb.  When I decided to go back to college, my 
decision between majors was horticulture or fashion.  I decided for fashion 
because I hate working in the heat of August.  Here are two photos of my 
latest pride and joys from my garden.
***9 ft. cannas and 10 ft. tall sunflower.  Neither have been fertilized. 
My son standing in-between the flowers is 6 ft. tall:
http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1060106lg.jpg
***Zinnias and butterfly: 
http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1010010lg.jpg

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee
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On Monday 20 August 2007, Penny Ladnier wrote:

[snip]
>
> I have a very green thumb.  When I decided to go back to college, my
> decision between majors was horticulture or fashion.  I decided for fashion
> because I hate working in the heat of August.  Here are two photos of my
> latest pride and joys from my garden.
> ***9 ft. cannas and 10 ft. tall sunflower.  Neither have been fertilized.

Kudos!  I have the world's blackest thumb, myself; I can kill spider plants 
without really trying.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks
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Is this sweet iced tea specially made or just iced tea with sugar? In Calif
our iced tea comes without sugar, so you just put in however much you want
(if any). 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of picmajik@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 8:11 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] re:iced drinks

I went to England the first week of June (great trip but too short) with a
school trip from Atlanta and I was surprised to find that in most of the
restaurants I was able to get Diet Coke with one ice cube and a slice of
lemon--just the way I like it and never asked for it that way. Most drinks
are cold from the fountain/dispenser so I didn't need extra ice. 
However, we did have one from our group ask for sweet iced tea and it caused
a major production number. The Georgian was able to get the sweet iced tea
but when our tour guide wanted one to try that seemed to have been a major
act of treason and they refused to serve him one.
At least I was able to get Coke as a back up option but at home I drink Diet
Coke 1/2 the time, sweet tea 1/2 the time.
You think it's hard finding sweet tea North of the Mason-Dixon line? Try
finding sweet tea in Florida! Once you get south of the panhandle you are no
longer in the South as far as food and drink are concerned. I did run into
one nice waiter in Orlando who was from Georgia and he agreed to make me a
pitcher of sweet tea. He got a nice tip!




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References: <5B73D730-153D-44EB-BBFA-6B9ABD3BC8A2@netspeed.com.au><08ed01c7e2f1$9b685450$0300a8c0@bobfamilyroom>
	<8296995c0708201229rda2b9c7x2b2b179f931e947a@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 01:23:20 -0700
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Oops! I don't know. I thought I made it up. (Dang, all the good ideas are
already taken) I don't know if it's copyright infringement if it's the title
of a fashion show.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 12:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?

Isn't that already a book? would there be any copyright problems using it?

Lynn

On 8/19/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> "The Way We Wore"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>
> I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade - 
> showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?
> And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - 
> I'm trying to put a proposal together.
>
> Thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 01:27:15 -0700
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Book titles are not copywrited as far as I have heard, moives yes, but book
names are fair game as long as it does have trademarked names.

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 8/21/2007 1:22:27 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>
> Oops! I don't know. I thought I made it up. (Dang, all the good ideas are
> already taken) I don't know if it's copyright infringement if it's the
title
> of a fashion show.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Lynn Downward
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 12:29 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
>
> Isn't that already a book? would there be any copyright problems using it?
>
> Lynn
>
> On 8/19/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> > "The Way We Wore"
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> > On Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
> > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
> >
> > I'm trying to think of catchy names for a historical fashion parade - 
> > showing under and outer garments from the last 500 years. Any ideas?
> > And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in public next year - 
> > I'm trying to put a proposal together.
> >
> > Thanks, Aylwen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7d21ac190708201131p2ef484c7xf714f91f8fa801ca@mail.gmail.com><002a01c7e39e$583d9fc0$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
	<200708202311.46389.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: coffee
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 01:42:14 -0700
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Then you should try Cannas. They are very forgiving. I have some in the
backyard that even my mother didn't kill!
(She isn't a gardener)They come back after freezing and thrive on neglect.
Just water them. If you feed them too, they grow like gangbusters. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 8:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee

On Monday 20 August 2007, Penny Ladnier wrote:

[snip]
>
> I have a very green thumb.  When I decided to go back to college, my 
> decision between majors was horticulture or fashion.  I decided for 
> fashion because I hate working in the heat of August.  Here are two 
> photos of my latest pride and joys from my garden.
> ***9 ft. cannas and 10 ft. tall sunflower.  Neither have been fertilized.

Kudos!  I have the world's blackest thumb, myself; I can kill spider plants
without really trying.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 05:25:55 -0400
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True sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm,
so that it dissolves completely. I've seen some folks add cups, yes
plural, to a pitcher of tea. I call tea that sweet "Tea syrup", mainly
because I find it way too sweet. Some folks do like it though, and if
you go to a restaurant in especially rural places in the South, just
expect that's what you're going to get, and probably won't be able to
get unsweet tea at all. Cities are changing, but countryfolk are slower
to do so. My dad, for example, hated having to add sugar to a glass of
iced tea because he said it never really dissolved. Yes, he was very
"country"!

I have absolutely zero costume content to add here, sorry! 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 4:21 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks

Is this sweet iced tea specially made or just iced tea with sugar? In
Calif
our iced tea comes without sugar, so you just put in however much you
want
(if any). 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
Behalf Of picmajik@bellsouth.net
Try
finding sweet tea in Florida! Once you get south of the panhandle you
are no
longer in the South as far as food and drink are concerned. I did run
into
one nice waiter in Orlando who was from Georgia and he agreed to make me
a
pitcher of sweet tea. He got a nice tip!




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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments
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Costume Content:  I will be good and add this first!
While trying to find out when manufacturers stopped using aniline dye in 
textiles, I came across a lady Alice Hamilton who was most noted for her 
research in aniline textile dye, mercury and lead poisons, and other 
chemicals in the industry. She also wrote a book called Exploring the 
Dangerous Trades. I have found the book online for $52+. I just hate to 
purchase a book for this price to find out one answer.  Also, Hamilton was 
the first woman on Harvard's faculty.  Back to aniline, I have found it used 
in fabrics in the 1920s.
Links: Alice Hamilton: 
http://www.hno.harvard.edu/gazette/1997/10.23/PublicHealthPio.html
A good website about colorant history: 
http://www.colorantshistory.org/home.html  The answer to my aniline question 
might be on this website but the website is vast.  I tried to email the site 
owner but their link doesn't work.

There are some tricks to growing cannas:
1. They love at least five hours of direct sunlight.
2. Deadhead them once a week.  When you deadhead them, pull back the thin 
leave by the flower stalk, and cut (45 degree angle) the stalk as far down 
in the stalk as possible.  This makes the new flower stalk stronger.  The 
new flower stalk will appear in a week.
3. Beetles love to eat the leaves and flowers.  Malatyon! (sp?)  (FYI: This 
melts nail polish)
4. Plant them in the wettest part of your yard.  The old-fashioned nickname 
for cannas is septic tank flowers.
5. Do not remove dead stalks until spring time.  The stalks feed the tubers 
through the winter.  I just cover mine with leaves to winter.  Do not walk 
on the bed in the snow.  Someone killed some of mine this way.  My cannas 
come up in early May and bloom until the first killing frost around Oct. 15. 
They bloom all summer.
6. The tubers can be divided in the spring.  Don't move after the first 
stalks appear.

This IS my last message about tea:  I promise!
When you add sugar to cold unsweet tea, it dissolves slowly or not at all. 
This is wasting sugar.  To make sweet tea, add the sugar while the tea brew 
is hot.  Then add Stir it until the spoon does not draw.  The sugar has 
melted.  Then dilute the tea with cold water.  I learned this from my Food 
Science course in college.  This was one of my favorite college classes at 
University of New Mexico.  You made things wrong, and then were taught the 
correct method.  The point was to learn the chemical reactions.  Try making 
a cake or biscuits with baking soda and another with baking powder. See we 
still need home ec. education in our lives!  It just wasn't all sewing and 
etiquette.

Tea that is cloudy is old tea and has a bad/rank flavor.  The tannins have 
settled.  Also putting tea in a frig will make it cloud sooner.  I can't 
recall if it was Lipton or Lousianne who had a ad campaign about their tea 
not clouding as soon as other brands.  In a restraunt, if we receive cloudy 
tea, we do not even taste it.  We return it and drink water.  We also make 
sure the manager knows about the problem.  Tea is so inexpensive there is no 
reason for them to not make it fresh daily, even though they change you $2 
for the drink.  McDonald's has ads for a large sweet tea on their $1 menu. 
Oh well, I fore-warned you, we are serious ice tea drinkers.

In Richmond, VA I have to ask for unsweet ice tea, otherwise, they will 
bring me sweet tea.  I stopped liking sweet tea when my husband started 
adding two cups of sugar to our family's tea.  Now we have his and hers tea 
pitchers!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee
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At 11:11 PM 8/20/2007, you wrote:

>Kudos!  I have the world's blackest thumb, myself; I can kill spider plants
>without really trying.


Me too. I love beautiful gardens, but I just can't seem to manage it.

I love that sunflower, Penny.

Dianne 

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In a message dated 8/21/2007 4:42:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Then you  should try Cannas


************
 
And daylilies. Talk about maintenance free! And they come is some amazing  
varieties, not just the tawny ditch lily. Check out this vendor!
 
_http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000_ 
(http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000) 
 
 
Of course the actual blooms only last a day so you can't really cut them  and 
bring them inside. But they bloom day after day, especially if you water  
them when they 1st start coming up in the spring. They spread  too.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:iced drinks
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In a message dated 8/21/2007 5:27:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
vmaa2@cox.net writes:

True  sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm,
so that  it dissolves completely.


***************
 
Yes that's it. The sugar is usually put in while the tea is steeping. My  
mother used to make the tea without the sugar and, while she was boiling water,  
she's make up some simple syrup... y'know sugar in boiling water... put that 
on  the table in a cream pitcher so the "yankees" wouldn't be upset and 
everyone  could sweeten their tea as they pleased.
 
I hate iced tea...sweet or not. I guess I'm about the only Southerner that  
does.



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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 07:58:45 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
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Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would have
cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??  

My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to
prepare a card where the punchline is "50 years together, priceless". 
They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this year
for the rest of the bit.  For some reason they thought I would know
about the dress :).

Thanks,
Catherine
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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments
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> 5. Do not remove dead stalks until spring time.  The stalks feed the 
> tubers through the winter.  I just cover mine with leaves to winter.  Do 
> not walk on the bed in the snow.  Someone killed some of mine this way. 
> My cannas come up in early May and bloom until the first killing frost 
> around Oct. 15. They bloom all summer.

Depends on where you live!!  Check your garden zone as Cannas tubers will 
not survive the winter here (Iowa, border between zone 4 and 5) and in the 
spring you will just have mush.  It's the main reason we don't plant cannas 
or dahlias; stuff just doesn't winter over well in our basement.

OCC: local Walmart stores seems to be in a run of new $1.00 yard fabrics!  I 
was trying really hard to use only stash on recent projects, but the siren 
call of cool stuff is too much for me. I found a *lovely* bolt of something 
(synthetic, I'm sure) that looks like navy blue nondescript whatever on the 
backside (the side showing in the stack) but when I folded it back to the 
right side -- OMG -- it looked exactly like hammered copper only not *quite* 
copper colored and not *quite* the color of gold. My daughter is only in 8th 
grade but she immediately said "Prom Dress, Mom!" so naturally I bought all 
6 yards. For a dollar a yard, what the heck!  In two trips to two different 
stores I bought about 20 yards of fabric.

Denise
Iowa 

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2 items, 1 of which is costume related, 1 of which is tea related:

1) Costume, or rather fabric: I want to thank all the folks who replied 
several weeks ago to my request for fabric store locations in 
California. I ended up at a couple Discount Fabrics with no finds, then 
went to Britex in San Francisco. Instead of silk I bought cotton. 4 
pieces of white, lightweight, very fine, cottons (one satin batiste) and 
one primrose/jonquil yellow that looks exactly like the color of that 
early 19th cent. muslin gown with the brown trim that was posted here a 
couple months ago. Lovely!

Now I'm at it again, this time to New York. I remember doing the Orchard 
St. shopping blitz many years ago, but now it seems the stores are more 
concentrated in the 30s. While I would love to spend the day browsing 
every shop, my daughters also want to do some non-fabric shopping. So, 
does anyone have a favorite, must-go-to, fabric store in NYC (where 
favorite is defined as "you can get some silk or linen or fine cotton 
historically probable fabric at ridiculously low prices")? Oh, and 
feathers: ostrich plumes for bonnets?

2) Tea. Ah yes. I'm a northerner but my parents were southerners so I 
grew up on iced tea. We made it in a pot, steeped for 3-5 mins. as tea 
should be, sweetened while hot, poured over ice. I still make it that 
way, I just don't use as much sugar. Well, at restaurants I often ask 
how they make their iced tea. Many are proud to say that they don't use 
a mix but brew it from real bags and don't sweeten it. They are also 
proud to say that they make it "nice and strong" by brewing it overnight 
in the refrigerator. Ouch! So here's how I usually order iced tea at a 
restaurant: "could you bring me a cup of hot tea, and two glasses 
completely filled with ice..." :-)
(Of course, that doesn't mean they will actually boil the water for the 
tea but what the heck--can't be too fussy!!)

- Hope


Penny Ladnier wrote:
> This IS my last message about tea:  I promise!
> When you add sugar to cold unsweet tea, it dissolves slowly or not at 
> all. This is wasting sugar.  To make sweet tea, add the sugar while 
> the tea brew is hot.

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:20:44 -0400
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Ooh, thanks Denise. THAT was my exciting costume news that I forgot to
share! 

I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the
$1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she
said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were
replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPEEEEE!!!!!  
She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to
be. 

So, I guess Walmart paid attention to the fact that they don't need to
be "upscale"- that is not their target market. I'm not sure what is
going on with the other service oriented departments that were under the
knife, such as paint, automotive and fish. Fish, now that's one section
I'd be very happy to see out of our Walmart. It's so bad I'm surprised
PETA hasn't found out about it! 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Land of Oz

 OCC: local Walmart stores seems to be in a run of new $1.00 yard
fabrics!  I 
was trying really hard to use only stash on recent projects, but the
siren 
call of cool stuff is too much for me. I found a *lovely* bolt of
something 
(synthetic, I'm sure) that looks like navy blue nondescript whatever on
the 
backside (the side showing in the stack) but when I folded it back to
the 
right side -- OMG -- it looked exactly like hammered copper only not
*quite* 
copper colored and not *quite* the color of gold. My daughter is only in
8th 
grade but she immediately said "Prom Dress, Mom!" so naturally I bought
all 
6 yards. For a dollar a yard, what the heck!  In two trips to two
different 
stores I bought about 20 yards of fabric.

Denise


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Coffee and Tea
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Penny - thanks for the tips re: the coffee grounds. My husband does
what very little planting we do around here because I have a very
brown thumb, but I put some cooled grounds + water in kitty grass
today, and I'll see how it goes.

Albert - I'm from GA and I've never liked Iced tea. You're not alone.

Allison T.

On 8/21/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:52:40 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002a01c7e39e$583d9fc0$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>         reply-type=original
>
> Allison,
>
> My mother taught to just add them to the soil's surface.  We always added it
> after the coffee grounds had cooled.  I have had some house plants for over
> 20 years.
>
> I have a very green thumb.  When I decided to go back to college, my
> decision between majors was horticulture or fashion.  I decided for fashion
> because I hate working in the heat of August.  Here are two photos of my
> latest pride and joys from my garden.
> ***9 ft. cannas and 10 ft. tall sunflower.  Neither have been fertilized.
> My son standing in-between the flowers is 6 ft. tall:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1060106lg.jpg
> ***Zinnias and butterfly:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/flowers/P1010010lg.jpg
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
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>> From: Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>
>>
>> Oops! I don't know. I thought I made it up. (Dang, all the good ideas
>> are already taken) I don't know if it's copyright infringement if it's the
>> title of a fashion show.


     So many books are called _A History of Costume_ that we refer to them
by the author's name.

     Copyright infringement is if you copy and sell or hand out a portion
of the book.  With titles, you're talking about trademark.  In that
case, will it be confused with the original product?

     I doubt 7-Up will sue for classrooms to stop playing the game of the
same name on rainy days.  Likewise calling a fashion show "The Way We
Wore" or "A History of Costume" is not going to harm sales of the
books.  You might get in trouble if you called it Microsoft or Disney
because people would assume you had their sponsorship.

     Are you planning to make a video of the parade and distribute it?  If
that's the case, then you would want to do more research on names.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
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In a message dated 8/21/2007 9:00:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ckinsey@kumc.edu writes:

Would  anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things  in
1957? 


****************
 
A reprinted Sears catalogue of the period maybe. Or, most libraries have  old 
copies of magazines from the 50's. Check the ads.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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Sharon Collier wrote:
> Oops! I don't know. I thought I made it up. (Dang, all the good ideas are
> already taken) I don't know if it's copyright infringement if it's the title
> of a fashion show.


	According to a quick check at Bookfinder.com at least 7 people have 
published books that start out 'the Way We wore' and then sometimes 
elaborated after that (Styles of the 30s & 40s, Fashion Illustration of 
Children's Wear, Vintage Paper Doll.....)

	So you certainly could use it, but it won't be quite as original as you 
had hoped.

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 08:18:45 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: re:iced drinks
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Sweet tea is popular in the midwest (Kansas City area), altho not
automatically served in restaurants.  My husband used to make very good
sweet tea with a MrCoffee iced tea maker: 
http://www.mrcoffee.com/productmodels.aspx?categoryid=2
He would add about a half cup of sugar to the hopper with the tea bags
so that it dissolved completely as the tea brewed.  While not an iced
tea expert I have to admit that this was really good iced tea.  He's
been using the same machine for years, but we are on our second set of
pitchers :).

Catherine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments
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In a message dated 8/21/2007 12:22:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

Now I'm  at it again, this time to New York. I remember doing the Orchard 
St.  shopping blitz many years ago, but now it seems the stores are more  
concentrated in the 30s.


*************
 
Yes, the upper 30s on the west side is full of fabric shops....many, alas,  
with the same stuff out in front. But it can be fun to dig through the  bolts.
 
I've always wanted to shop at Mood, just to see what's there but I could  
never find the damn place! The last time I was in the city, my friend  finally 
told me it not at street level. But then he said he's never found the  door to 
go up!! LOL.
 
As you can see....we really aren't trying very hard, are  we?



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
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On Tue, 21 Aug 2007, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
> 1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would
> have cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??

The fastest way I can think of to get the answer is in the microfilm room
of my local library, which has archives of newspapers going way back ...
including ad sections. I'd go for the Sunday New York Times or a similar
paper with large Sunday ad supplements. You might have to go through a few
months (I can't remember what season is the big one for wedding dress
sales), but eventually you'll find an ad for a bridal show or sale that
will have pictures with prices.

A similar resource is old magazines. Modern Bride or Bride's Magazine
might not go back that far, but Vogue and Ladies' Home Journal may
occasionally feature wedding dresses. Try the Reader's Guide to Periodical
Literature for your target year to find magazine features on wedding
gowns, then see if you can get the magazine on microfilm or fiche. You'll
need a good-sized library for this.

--Robin

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:54:20 -0400
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Here's another, of a nice dress. Says that $350.00 was a lot of money
for a wedding dress at the time. Today, that's dirt cheap.

http://www.thevintagevault.citymax.com/catalog/item/256734/45142.htm

Now, I'm off to go work on my own costumes today! Yay!

::L::



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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:49:34 -0400
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Naturally price could vary quite a bit, just as today. (Off the rack
from China vs. designer or custom made)

Here's one site that might be useful. Note the wedding dress price is
for "sample" dresses, so may not be very accurate.
http://www.gti.net/mocolib1/prices/1958.html

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957

Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would have
cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??  

My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to
prepare a card where the punchline is "50 years together, priceless". 
They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this year
for the rest of the bit.  For some reason they thought I would know
about the dress :).

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Subject: [h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news...
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At 10:39 AM -0600 8/21/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>Ooh, thanks Denise. THAT was my exciting costume news that I forgot to
>share!
>
>I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the
>$1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she
>said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were
>replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPEEEEE!!!!! 
>She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to
>be.
>
>So, I guess Walmart paid attention to the fact that they don't need to
>be "upscale"- that is not their target market. I'm not sure what is
>going on with the other service oriented departments that were under the
>knife, such as paint, automotive and fish. Fish, now that's one section
>I'd be very happy to see out of our Walmart. It's so bad I'm surprised
>PETA hasn't found out about it!
>
>::Linda::

Well the Walmart near I95 in Belair MD had their 75% off sale, 
cleared the store of cloth very quickly and now has stupid Halloween 
pumpkins in the rack space... the Aberdeen one still has cloth for 
now. I guess it may be store by store decision. Silly to hammer the 
Belair one as they always sold a ton of quilting stuff and had a 
better selection than the others. But if the others don't stock as 
well, the Corporate can point fingers and claim it to be a loss...
Oh and they seem to be keeping the fish section, but it a well tended 
one and the fish seem healthy.
SIGH
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Funny enough I just got an email from Cooks Illustrated about their tea
tasting  -- here's the link if you would like to read it.
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/printtasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104

or
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/tasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104&extcode=N07MH1AA1

They are the people that have a TV show on PBS and a cooking magazine
without advertisements.


Now- back to topic.

the best tea dying I have found is from Nambarrie's Tea from Belfast - it
dyes cups, teeth and fabrics.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT- brewing iced tea
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At 18:45 21/08/2007, you wrote:
>Funny enough I just got an email from Cooks Illustrated about their tea
>tasting  -- here's the link if you would like to read it.
>http://www.cooksillustrated.com/printtasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104
>
>or
>http://www.cooksillustrated.com/tasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104&extcode=N07MH1AA1
>
>They are the people that have a TV show on PBS and a cooking magazine
>without advertisements.
>
>
>Now- back to topic.
>
>the best tea dying I have found is from Nambarrie's Tea from Belfast - it
>dyes cups, teeth and fabrics.

Well, now speaking as one who comes from a tea drinking country, I 
get my tea from France!! Lipton's make a Tchae which I cannot buy in 
the U.K. or the U.S., so every so often we make an excursion across 
to France, and buy up the whole box/shelf. However, recently I have 
found a green tea from China that I can buy in quantity too. But tea 
with milk - yeuck!

I like iced tea too, but in Washington I had one and realised it 
should have been sweetened. And would you believe the iced tea I can 
buy in bottles in the supermarket is not the same as Anne was getting 
me, same name, same label, in Virginia. Pfffft!!

Suzi

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> 
>      Copyright infringement is if you copy and sell or hand out a portion
> of the book.  With titles, you're talking about trademark.  In that
> case, will it be confused with the original product?  I doubt 7-Up will sue for classrooms to stop playing the game of the
> same name on rainy days. 

Unlike copyrights, trademarks are not granted automatically.  Most book 
titles are not trademarked, although it is more likely in the case of 
ongoing series such as "For Dummies."

On the other hand, whether you get caught and if so, punished is not 
much of an ethical guideline.  Neither is your personal opinion of 
whether sales will be harmed, as you have no access the sales figures 
and cannot know.

Fran
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 08:26:25 -0600
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I don't think China was making Western fashions for export in the 1950s.

On Aug 21, 2007, at 7:49 AM, Linda Rice wrote:

> Naturally price could vary quite a bit, just as today. (Off the rack
> from China vs. designer or custom made)
>
> Here's one site that might be useful. Note the wedding dress price is
> for "sample" dresses, so may not be very accurate.
> http://www.gti.net/mocolib1/prices/1958.html
>
> ::Linda::
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:59 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
>
> Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
> 1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would 
> have
> cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??
>
> My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to
> prepare a card where the punchline is "50 years together, priceless".
> They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this 
> year
> for the rest of the bit.  For some reason they thought I would know
> about the dress :).
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] regional things, was re: iced drinks
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> True sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm,
> so that it dissolves completely.

     I've made it that way - it makes sense.   To me, the funniest thing
is that people in different areas will claim theirs is "the best"
iced tea.  My mom is a good one for that - rather than saying she
likes the tea in  her area, she tells me they claim it's the best. 
So I said I heard that people in North Carolina claim *theirs* is the
best.  >;->

     These days there are so many teas, blends and tisanes that are good
cold.  I suppose you can't make "sun tea" as proper sweet tea.  And
some blends are lovely without sugar, the same way as I like some hot
teas with or without milk and sugar depending on the type of tea.

     As homogenized as things get these days, we still have regional
differences, besides the obvious climate and sports team themes. 
Hmmmn, does that steer it back to costume?  :-)

     Actually one thing that is interesting is the amount of consumer
pressure these days compared to 25 or 30 years ago.  My niece is
starting college this year and had to coordinate with her new
roommate on the colors and styles of sheets, towels, curtains, etc. 
For myself and my brothers, we were allowed to root through the linen
closet for things to take to school.  :-)

     -Carol

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Heather and wallflower are lovely too, and very easy to care for. The
purple heather that you find in the PacNWet blooms in the spring and
fall. Plant it in peat moss, see that it's watered once a weekand feed it
with a general plant food every few months. It puts out a beautiful
cloverlike flower and the bees love it. excellent if you live in an area
hit by bee blight--help those little creatures recover.

Wallflower is a bush with thin leaves and throws out beautiful stalks of
blooms. Plant it in regular soil, and care for as you would heather.
Again, bees love it. 

Prune both plants back from time to time--heather for shaping (as it
grows, it becomes excellent ground cover) and the wallflower stalks  back
to the bush level as the blooms die off. It also covers ground well. It
likes medium to full sunlight; my heather grows in a mostly shaded area
and doesn't seem to mind.

Enjoy your beautiful garden and the compliments!

Arlys

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:05:19 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>  
> In a message dated 8/21/2007 4:42:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> sharon@collierfam.com writes:
> 
> Then you  should try Cannas
> 
> 
> ************
>  
> And daylilies. Talk about maintenance free! And they come is some 
> amazing  
> varieties, not just the tawny ditch lily. Check out this vendor!
>  
> _http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000_ 
> (http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000) 
>  
>  
> Of course the actual blooms only last a day so you can't really cut 
> them  and 
> bring them inside. But they bloom day after day, especially if you 
> water  
> them when they 1st start coming up in the spring. They spread  too.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the 
> all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
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I believe that old Sears catalogs are available various places and other=
 large stores might also have records of their offerings from back 'in t=
he day'. They would be a good source for middle-class average costs.
 =

Karen
Seamstrix
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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
> the best tea dying I have found is from Nambarrie's Tea from Belfast - it
> dyes cups, teeth and fabrics.

My experiment with saving used tea bags for future tea dying did not end 
well.  Rather, it ended with me holding something at arm's length and 
sprinting for the trash.  Oh, well, luckily tea's not that expensive 
anymore.

I've been trying different types of teas lately, now that I'm trying to get 
back into drinking it daily, and have been surprised to notice how wide a 
range of colors I see.  When I was half the age I am now, I tried tea dying 
as a means of giving something an antiquey look, and gave up in disgust at 
the pinky peachy caucasian-flesh-tone I kept getting.  Now I wish I'd tried 
different types of tea instead of giving up!  My spent green tea bags stain 
the paper towel I put them on the perfect yellowed linen color...

When I'm done running around like a chicken with its head cut off planning 
my move/house-building/house purchase halfway across the country (WA, NH, 
MT, or WY, depending on which job the husband takes) I plan to try various 
types of cheap grocery store tea to find out what color each yields.  Unless 
anyone knows of a website out there where someone has already done the work 
for me!

-E House

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 00:08:43 -0400
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For those interested and the recent discussion:  Tonight/Early Wed. =
morning History International is running a Modern Marvels show about the =
history of sugar.   Following this, the show, Where did it Come From: =
Ancient China's Agriculture.

Also, WE tv is auctioning on eBay one of Princess Diana's dresses from =
the original Christie's auction.  =
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=3D1&item=3D290148990656&=
ssPageName=3DSTRK:MEWA:IT&ih=3D019
The opening bid, $250,000.  This dress was made by Catherine Walker.  =
Make sure to click on the slide show.  WE owns two more of her dresses =
and they are supposed to be on tour.  Has anyone heard of the tour and =
where it is going?

The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been to =
it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going to see =
the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my sister that =
this tour was not that good.  I would like some feedback from someone =
who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been  
> to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going  
> to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my  
> sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some  
> feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.

Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I  
gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the  
most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous  
gold mask.

Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to  
me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's  
necessarily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.  
(Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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From: juliana foulare <txldyjuliana@yahoo.com>
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I found this http://home.att.net/~design-house/vintage_brides/vintage_brides_we_love_3.htm.
  I also asked my mom (she was married in 1957) her mother made her dress and she could not remember the cost, however she said that maybe cost $20.00 in materials.

       
---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS:  More Comments: Costume Content)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I saw the exhibit in Los Angeles and enjoyed it very much.  I hadn't seen p=
revious exhibits, though I've seen the magazine pictures.... and the gold m=
ask was there.  In terms of history and costume (particularly jewelry) it w=
as very nice.  I would recommend the effort!  Kathy=0A=0A=0A----- Original =
Message ----=0AFrom: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>=0ATo: Historical Costum=
e <h-costume@indra.com>=0ASent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:42:06 PM=0ASubj=
ect: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A=0A=
=0AOn Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:=0A=0A> The King Tut ex=
hibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been  =0A> to it?  I would l=
ike to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going  =0A> to see the exhibit =
in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my  =0A> sister that this tour=
 was not that good.  I would like some  =0A> feedback from someone who has =
seen it in PA, CA, or FL.=0A=0ACo-workers of mine who went to see it were d=
isappointed, mostly (I  =0Agathered)  because they hadn't realized beforeha=
nd that some of the  =0Amost spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, s=
uch as the famous  =0Agold mask.=0A=0AReading between the lines, though, it=
 sounded pretty interesting to  =0Ame as long as you go with an open mind a=
nd don't assume it's  =0Anecessarily designed for maximum "splash" like pre=
vious Tut exhibits.  =0A(Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)=0A=0A____=
________________________________________________________=0A=0AO    Chris La=
ning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California=0A+     http://paternoster-row.o=
rg - http://paternosters.blogspot.com=0A___________________________________=
_________________________=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________________________=
_________=0Ah-costume mailing list=0Ah-costume@mail.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail=
.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A      _______________________=
_____________________________________________________________=0ALuggage? GP=
S? Comic books? =0ACheck out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search=0Ahtt=
p://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Dbz
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Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 06:59:35 -0700
From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1957 wedding dress price
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I made mine in 1955 and it cost between ten and fifteen dollars.  That was complete with hoop and veil.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- txldyjuliana@yahoo.com wrote:

From: juliana foulare <txldyjuliana@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] 1957 wedding dress price
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 00:19:35 -0700 (PDT)


I found this http://home.att.net/~design-house/vintage_brides/vintage_brides_we_love_3.htm.
  I also asked my mom (she was married in 1957) her mother made her dress and she could not remember the cost, however she said that maybe cost $20.00 in materials.

       
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I was there shopping last year at just about this time.  I saw no fabric =
out front the two or three days I was there.=20
Also, I found no "really cheap" fabric. All in all, looking for linen =
and wool and silk, I was disappointed by the selection.  If you are =
looking for high end fabric, like stuff which is beaded - there is tons!

The fashion district information kiosk was never opened the whole time I =
was there.  (The one next to the bronze tailor statue). =20

Here is a link to some information about shopping there:
http://www.paulanadelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html<http://www.paulan=
adelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html>

There are several stores on second story level.  You can see the stuff =
from the street, just poke around and don't be afraid to ask for =
directions!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 9:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments



  In a message dated 8/21/2007 12:22:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
  hope.greenberg@uvm.edu<mailto:hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> writes:

  Now I'm  at it again, this time to New York. I remember doing the =
Orchard=20
  St.  shopping blitz many years ago, but now it seems the stores are =
more =20
  concentrated in the 30s.

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Excellent! A wonderful resource. Thanks.

- Hope


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Here is a link to some information about shopping there:
> http://www.paulanadelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html<http://www.paulanadelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html>
>   

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
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I also went while it was in L.A., and I saw it as a 20-something (22?)
when the exhibit was in San Francisco at the de Young in the 70s. Yes,
this tour doesn't have the mask, but it has more, much more than I
remember at the first show. It has the ebony throne with insets you've
seen all your life while looking at the Tutankhamon books. The chest
with the Pharoah in the chariot hunting is there and even more lovely
than in the best photograph you've ever seen. It has a leather dog
collar, showing the fine work that was done on this everyday object. I
was lucky enough to be walking with a man who does leather work and a
woman who works with natural dyes. Their input on this little object
make it alive. The way the exhibit was set up was very nice; it gave
some good history and actually showed a decent map of the whole Valley
of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens with the more famous tombs
listed. It merged my picture of the Valley and what I had learned
together and made more sense. I spent the extra money and rented the
audio package offered; imagine my pleasure to hear both Omar Shariff
and Dr. Hawass, Head of the Department of Egyptian Antiquitites (or
something like that) on this package. This whole exhibit brought tears
to my eyes several times - especially the canoptic jar with the
lioness lounging on the top with her tongue out and the walking cane
with the handle carved as a Nubian slave. I rode to LACMA on a bus
with a tour from Costume College, and I actually had to skip the last
room and the shop in order to get to the bus at the appointed time, I
had spent so much time looking at the objects on display.

The exhibit that toured in the 1970s was an exhibit of objects, lovely
objects but there was no attempt to put them into perspective of the
time when they were in use; they were in display cases under lights
under guard with small notes saying what they were, when given to the
collection, etc., the ususal stuff in a museum. This current exhibit
really explains them to those people who haven't been, as Chris said,
an "armchair Egyptophile" for 40 years as I have. I'm sure this is
also a process of change from what a museum was in 1970-something to
now. Also, as a tour it has been underwritten by companies who have
put big bucks into the display of these gorgeous objects.

SO, the bottom line? Yeah, I think it would be worth it to see the
exhibit. If you've ever read any book about Tutankhamon and seen any
pictures, you can almost guarantee that you'll see it in the exhibit
-- and things you've never seen before. Except the mask.

LynnD

On 8/22/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I saw the exhibit in Los Angeles and enjoyed it very much.  I hadn't seen previous exhibits, though I've seen the magazine pictures.... and the gold mask was there.  In terms of history and costume (particularly jewelry) it was very nice.  I would recommend the effort!  Kathy
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:42:06 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
>
>
> On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> > The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been
> > to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going
> > to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my
> > sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some
> > feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.
>
> Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I
> gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the
> most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous
> gold mask.
>
> Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to
> me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's
> necessarily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.
> (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
>       ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news...
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The little one in Dade City, Florida is keeping theirs. Good thing
too, it's 50 miles to the closest JoAnns!  However, many others in the
state closed their out.
******************************************
> >I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the
> >$1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she
> >said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were
> >replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPEEEEE!!!!!
> >She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to
> >be.
> >--
**********************************************
Aspasia Moonwind
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: King Tut Exhibit
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> On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: 
> 
>> The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been  
>> to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going  
>> to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my  
>> sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some  
>> feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.
> 
> Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I  
> gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the  
> most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous  
> gold mask. 
> 
> Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to  
> me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's  
> necessarily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.  
> (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)

I saw it in Chicago last year, and I agree - a lot of the "best" stuff is 
still in Egypt, including Tut's death mask.  However, they had a ton of cool 
things from a wide variety of tombs.  The exhibit wasn't all just King Tut - 
it actually covered more of the family situation leading up to the reign of 
King Tut, as well as his own time. 

Do keep an open mind, though, particularly in regards to the parts about how 
Tut "restored" the old religion after he gained the throne.  Remember that 
he was only 9 or 10 years old at the time, so to my mind it's rather 
unlikely that he was doing anything without the guidance/influence/control 
of his advisors! 

 -Martha 



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Oh, and don't bother hiking all the way up to Greenberg & Hammer.  It is =
a teeny weenie store with almost nothing to see.  IMHO, their catalogue =
is a much better way to shop.

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Saragrace Knauf<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 8:19 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] New York City Shopping. Was: Some Comments


  I was there shopping last year at just about this time.  I saw no =
fabric out front the two or three days I was there.=20
  Also, I found no "really cheap" fabric. All in all, looking for linen =
and wool and silk, I was disappointed by the selection.  If you are =
looking for high end fabric, like stuff which is beaded - there is tons!

  The fashion district information kiosk was never opened the whole time =
I was there.  (The one next to the bronze tailor statue). =20

  Here is a link to some information about shopping there:
  =
http://www.paulanadelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html<http://www.paulan=
adelstern.com/fabric/guides/index.html<http://www.paulanadelstern.com/fab=
ric/guides/index.html%3Chttp://www.paulanadelstern.com/fabric/guides/inde=
x.html>>

  There are several stores on second story level.  You can see the stuff =
from the street, just poke around and don't be afraid to ask for =
directions!

  Sg
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: =
AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com%3Cmai=
lto:AlbertCat@aol.com>>=20
    To: =
h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com=
%3Cmailto:h-costume@indra.com>>=20
    Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 9:37 AM
    Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments



    In a message dated 8/21/2007 12:22:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
    =
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu<mailto:hope.greenberg@uvm.edu<mailto:hope.greenber=
g@uvm.edu%3Cmailto:hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>> writes:

    Now I'm  at it again, this time to New York. I remember doing the =
Orchard=20
    St.  shopping blitz many years ago, but now it seems the stores are =
more =20
    concentrated in the 30s.

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: King Tut Exhibit
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Seconding what Martha said - a lot of the more famous items did stay
home (I'm still irked that the death mask is used in the promotional
material, but is not included in the exhibit), but a lot of the items
included are those that seldom leave Egypt and are in what in my
untutored mind is an astoundingly good state of preservation,
especially the furniture.

The exhibit also provides a broader context of Tut's reign, including
artifacts from his predecessors (I especially enjoyed some of
Akhenaten's artifacts that I'd only seen in books before).

I recommend going, if only to relive some of the nostalgia for the
glitzier 1970s touring exhibit (which I saw when I was 4 and still
remember parts of).

Obligatory textile/costume content: there is a statue that contains in
it's varnish the imprint of whatever textile (linen, I think) that it
was veiled with at the time of burial.

Allison T.

On 8/22/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 13:26:46 -0400
> From: "Martha Oser" <osermart@msu.edu>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: King Tut Exhibit
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <E1INtyh-0004yw-1q@sys30.mail.msu.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8"
>
> > On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> >> The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been
> >> to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going
> >> to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my
> >> sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some
> >> feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.
> >
> > Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I
> > gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the
> > most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous
> > gold mask.
> >
> > Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to
> > me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's
> > necessarily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.
> > (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)
>
> I saw it in Chicago last year, and I agree - a lot of the "best" stuff is
> still in Egypt, including Tut's death mask.  However, they had a ton of cool
> things from a wide variety of tombs.  The exhibit wasn't all just King Tut -
> it actually covered more of the family situation leading up to the reign of
> King Tut, as well as his own time.
>
> Do keep an open mind, though, particularly in regards to the parts about how
> Tut "restored" the old religion after he gained the throne.  Remember that
> he was only 9 or 10 years old at the time, so to my mind it's rather
> unlikely that he was doing anything without the guidance/influence/control
> of his advisors!
>
>  -Martha
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 391
> *****************************************
>
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Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 12:12:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I must have been on the bus with you!  Kathy=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message=
 ----=0AFrom: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>=0ATo: Historical Costu=
me <h-costume@indra.com>=0ASent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 10:04:10 AM=0AS=
ubject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=
=0A=0A=0AI also went while it was in L.A., and I saw it as a 20-something (=
22?)=0Awhen the exhibit was in San Francisco at the de Young in the 70s. Ye=
s,=0Athis tour doesn't have the mask, but it has more, much more than I=0Ar=
emember at the first show. It has the ebony throne with insets you've=0Asee=
n all your life while looking at the Tutankhamon books. The chest=0Awith th=
e Pharoah in the chariot hunting is there and even more lovely=0Athan in th=
e best photograph you've ever seen. It has a leather dog=0Acollar, showing =
the fine work that was done on this everyday object. I=0Awas lucky enough t=
o be walking with a man who does leather work and a=0Awoman who works with =
natural dyes. Their input on this little object=0Amake it alive. The way th=
e exhibit was set up was very nice; it gave=0Asome good history and actuall=
y showed a decent map of the whole Valley=0Aof the Kings and the Valley of =
the Queens with the more famous tombs=0Alisted. It merged my picture of the=
 Valley and what I had learned=0Atogether and made more sense. I spent the =
extra money and rented the=0Aaudio package offered; imagine my pleasure to =
hear both Omar Shariff=0Aand Dr. Hawass, Head of the Department of Egyptian=
 Antiquitites (or=0Asomething like that) on this package. This whole exhibi=
t brought tears=0Ato my eyes several times - especially the canoptic jar wi=
th the=0Alioness lounging on the top with her tongue out and the walking ca=
ne=0Awith the handle carved as a Nubian slave. I rode to LACMA on a bus=0Aw=
ith a tour from Costume College, and I actually had to skip the last=0Aroom=
 and the shop in order to get to the bus at the appointed time, I=0Ahad spe=
nt so much time looking at the objects on display.=0A=0AThe exhibit that to=
ured in the 1970s was an exhibit of objects, lovely=0Aobjects but there was=
 no attempt to put them into perspective of the=0Atime when they were in us=
e; they were in display cases under lights=0Aunder guard with small notes s=
aying what they were, when given to the=0Acollection, etc., the ususal stuf=
f in a museum. This current exhibit=0Areally explains them to those people =
who haven't been, as Chris said,=0Aan "armchair Egyptophile" for 40 years a=
s I have. I'm sure this is=0Aalso a process of change from what a museum wa=
s in 1970-something to=0Anow. Also, as a tour it has been underwritten by c=
ompanies who have=0Aput big bucks into the display of these gorgeous object=
s.=0A=0ASO, the bottom line? Yeah, I think it would be worth it to see the=
=0Aexhibit. If you've ever read any book about Tutankhamon and seen any=0Ap=
ictures, you can almost guarantee that you'll see it in the exhibit=0A-- an=
d things you've never seen before. Except the mask.=0A=0ALynnD=0A=0AOn 8/22=
/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com> wrote:=0A> I saw the=
 exhibit in Los Angeles and enjoyed it very much.  I hadn't seen previous e=
xhibits, though I've seen the magazine pictures.... and the gold mask was t=
here.  In terms of history and costume (particularly jewelry) it was very n=
ice.  I would recommend the effort!  Kathy=0A>=0A>=0A> ----- Original Messa=
ge ----=0A> From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>=0A> To: Historical Costume=
 <h-costume@indra.com>=0A> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:42:06 PM=0A> S=
ubject: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A>=
=0A>=0A> On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:=0A>=0A> > The Ki=
ng Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been=0A> > to it?  =
I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going=0A> > to see the=
 exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my=0A> > sister that =
this tour was not that good.  I would like some=0A> > feedback from someone=
 who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.=0A>=0A> Co-workers of mine who went to s=
ee it were disappointed, mostly (I=0A> gathered)  because they hadn't reali=
zed beforehand that some of the=0A> most spectacular artifacts stayed home =
this time, such as the famous=0A> gold mask.=0A>=0A> Reading between the li=
nes, though, it sounded pretty interesting to=0A> me as long as you go with=
 an open mind and don't assume it's=0A> necessarily designed for maximum "s=
plash" like previous Tut exhibits.=0A> (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking h=
ere.)=0A>=0A> ____________________________________________________________=
=0A>=0A> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California=0A> +     =
http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com=0A> _________=
___________________________________________________=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> _______=
________________________________________=0A> h-costume mailing list=0A> h-c=
ostume@mail.indra.com=0A> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
=0A>=0A>=0A>       ________________________________________________________=
____________________________=0A> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?=0A> Check out f=
itting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search=0A> http://search.yahoo.com/search?=
fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Dbz=0A> _________________________=
______________________=0A> h-costume mailing list=0A> h-costume@mail.indra.=
com=0A> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A>=0A____________=
___________________________________=0Ah-costume mailing list=0Ah-costume@ma=
il.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A   =
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________________=0APinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. =
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Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 12:28:58 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
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Must be! I was the person running to the bus like a crazy person,
wishing I looked less like a woman who is old enough to remember the
exhibit at the de Young and more like Indiana Jones running for the
plane. Thank goodness Annie, in charge of the tour, and I are old
friends and I knew she'd wait for me.

Lynn

On 8/22/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I must have been on the bus with you!  Kathy
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 10:04:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
>
>
> I also went while it was in L.A., and I saw it as a 20-something (22?)
> when the exhibit was in San Francisco at the de Young in the 70s. Yes,
> this tour doesn't have the mask, but it has more, much more than I
> remember at the first show. It has the ebony throne with insets you've
> seen all your life while looking at the Tutankhamon books. The chest
> with the Pharoah in the chariot hunting is there and even more lovely
> than in the best photograph you've ever seen. It has a leather dog
> collar, showing the fine work that was done on this everyday object. I
> was lucky enough to be walking with a man who does leather work and a
> woman who works with natural dyes. Their input on this little object
> make it alive. The way the exhibit was set up was very nice; it gave
> some good history and actually showed a decent map of the whole Valley
> of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens with the more famous tombs
> listed. It merged my picture of the Valley and what I had learned
> together and made more sense. I spent the extra money and rented the
> audio package offered; imagine my pleasure to hear both Omar Shariff
> and Dr. Hawass, Head of the Department of Egyptian Antiquitites (or
> something like that) on this package. This whole exhibit brought tears
> to my eyes several times - especially the canoptic jar with the
> lioness lounging on the top with her tongue out and the walking cane
> with the handle carved as a Nubian slave. I rode to LACMA on a bus
> with a tour from Costume College, and I actually had to skip the last
> room and the shop in order to get to the bus at the appointed time, I
> had spent so much time looking at the objects on display.
>
> The exhibit that toured in the 1970s was an exhibit of objects, lovely
> objects but there was no attempt to put them into perspective of the
> time when they were in use; they were in display cases under lights
> under guard with small notes saying what they were, when given to the
> collection, etc., the ususal stuff in a museum. This current exhibit
> really explains them to those people who haven't been, as Chris said,
> an "armchair Egyptophile" for 40 years as I have. I'm sure this is
> also a process of change from what a museum was in 1970-something to
> now. Also, as a tour it has been underwritten by companies who have
> put big bucks into the display of these gorgeous objects.
>
> SO, the bottom line? Yeah, I think it would be worth it to see the
> exhibit. If you've ever read any book about Tutankhamon and seen any
> pictures, you can almost guarantee that you'll see it in the exhibit
> -- and things you've never seen before. Except the mask.
>
> LynnD
>
> On 8/22/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I saw the exhibit in Los Angeles and enjoyed it very much.  I hadn't seen previous exhibits, though I've seen the magazine pictures.... and the gold mask was there.  In terms of history and costume (particularly jewelry) it was very nice.  I would recommend the effort!  Kathy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:42:06 PM
> > Subject: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
> >
> >
> > On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > > The King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been
> > > to it?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going
> > > to see the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my
> > > sister that this tour was not that good.  I would like some
> > > feedback from someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.
> >
> > Co-workers of mine who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I
> > gathered)  because they hadn't realized beforehand that some of the
> > most spectacular artifacts stayed home this time, such as the famous
> > gold mask.
> >
> > Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to
> > me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's
> > necessarily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.
> > (Old armchair Egyptophile speaking here.)
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> >
> > O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> > +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> > ____________________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >       ____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> > Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> > http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news...
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:12:12 -0500
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There are (and I don't know why) 3 super Walmarts in our little ol' College
town. The oldest is keeping thier's for a while the other ones are keeping
the bare minimum.

De

-----Original Message-----
The little one in Dade City, Florida is keeping theirs. Good thing
too, it's 50 miles to the closest JoAnns!  However, many others in the
state closed their out.
******************************************
> >I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the
> >$1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she
> >said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were
> >replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPEEEEE!!!!!
> >She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to
> >be.
> >--
**********************************************
Aspasia Moonwind


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Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
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Try looking at the department store ads in the microfilm of your local 
newspaper for '57.  I'd start in April or May.  If you're lucky, there 
will have been a bridal shop advertising, as well.  Or your library 
might have hung on to Vogue, or Harper's Bazaar.  I can't recall whether 
Seventeen was pubbing in '57.  I'm home sick, or I'd check.  There were 
lots of fashion ads in the New York Times, if your library has that.

It is a rare library that did this, but ask if they have a catalog 
collection.  No, not the library catalog, <grin> Sears, or Montgomery 
Ward, etc.

<pause>

Ah, I found a source.  Yes, Seventeen existed in 1957.

Mary Piero Carey
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Subject: [h-cost] 1955 wedding gown price
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I just got off the phone with Mom, who got married in Nov 1955.  Her 
gown cost about $200.  Floor length with short train, 3 tiers of lace, 
lace bodice & sleeves.  One of the Chantilly floral patterns, but I 
don't think it was true Chantilly from France.  Utterly gorgeous, and it 
took me _days_ to iron it to display at their 50th anniversary party.

Anyhow, going by that, $200 got you a real wow of a wedding dress in the 
midwest in the mid 50s.

Mary Piero Carey
>   
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Thread-Topic: Costuming patterns soon?
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costuming patterns soon?
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 With the Fall-Winter release of Elizabeth I: The Golden Age and The
Other Boleyn Girl--well, okay the costuming isn't accurate and the
headdresses for the women in OBG are worse(way, way too small, like they
are Tudor headbands or something)than the saucer French hoods in Anne of
the Thousand Days--(and that was 1968!)are pattern companies like
Simplicity, McCalls, or Butterick planning their own versions/uhm
ripoffs? =20

I can appreciate the kind of out-there legend/fantasy of what I've seen
of Elizabeth I's garb for The Golden Age, but The Other Boleyn Girl
looks totally off--fabric and the aforementioned headbandy excuses for
gable and French hoods. I know we have to see the actors' faces, but
most actors now like to look more accurate in historic films and TV. Of
course The Other Boleyn Girl has Mary younger than Anne, kind of playing
Gennifer Flowers to Henry VIII's Bill Clinton and Anne as a more knowing
and plotting Monica Lewinsky.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news...

There are (and I don't know why) 3 super Walmarts in our little ol'
College town. The oldest is keeping thier's for a while the other ones
are keeping the bare minimum.

De

-----Original Message-----
The little one in Dade City, Florida is keeping theirs. Good thing too,
it's 50 miles to the closest JoAnns!  However, many others in the state
closed their out.
******************************************
> >I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that=20
> >the $1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady=20
> >and she said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department=20
> >and were replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPEEEEE!!!!!
> >She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to

> >be.
> >--
**********************************************
Aspasia Moonwind


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen 
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I spoke to my mom about the lists' recent discussion about cooling =
linen/cotton before ironing.  My mom was born in 1934 and came from the =
timber area of  south-central Alabama.  The depression was really hard =
for people in this area.  Poverty is still high in this area and timber =
is still the principal economy.  Mom's family did not have an icebox =
until after WW2.  Her mother and grandmother washed cotton in the manner =
described below.  Her mother didn't own linen because it was expensive.  =
Her grandmother may have had linen because her family was middle class.

1. They washed their clothing on a washboard and dried it on a =
clothesline.
2. Prior to ironing, a large pot was with boiling water was on the =
stove.  A box of Argo starch was emptied into the water.  The starch =
bath was after the clothes were line-dried.
3. Everything cotton was ironed except the sheets.  The clothes to be =
ironed were dipped into the starch potted and wrung out before they =
cooled. =20
4. The items was laid flat and rolled into a sausage shape. =20
5. Depending on the weather, the items were placed into a tub in the =
cold creek's water or in the bucket for the well.  The well was like one =
you would think of in the 19th Century...non-electric. =20
6. My grandmother's iron was made of iron and was put on top of the =
wood-burning stove to get hot.
7. They ironed the items and if it had dried out what so ever, they =
sprinkled the fabric with water.=20
8. Her mother was very picky about her iron.  IF mom or her sisters got =
a spot of starch on the iron or clothes, she made them do the whole wash =
over again.  =20

Starching heavily served two purposes: =20
1. Mom stated that previously to WnW fabric, cotton wrinkled very badly =
and ironing it wet with the starch kept the wrinkles out. =20
2. Fabric that was heavily starched repelled dirt.

Mom said that until Wash-n-Wear (WnW) fabric was affordable in the =
1960s, that she starched all our family's clothing with Argo starch =
baths.  My mom said she washed and ironed daily.  We had 10 people =
living at home in the early 1960s.  I guess I could interview my older =
sister about this.  I am 15 years younger than her and there are three =
brothers in-between us.  In our home, the females took care of the =
housework.  The opposite of my present day family...my chore is the =
laundry.   My mom had 13 siblings, but she said, they didn't own as many =
clothes as people have today.  =20
      =20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen 
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I remember my mother told me, that when she was a child, she always had to 
wear fine clothes on sundays. And she hated this because the sunday clothes 
were starched and they scratched her skin.
My mother was born in 1917.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen


I spoke to my mom about the lists' recent discussion about cooling 
linen/cotton before ironing.  My mom was born in 1934 and came from the 
timber area of  south-central Alabama.  The depression was really hard for 
people in this area.  Poverty is still high in this area and timber is still 
the principal economy.  Mom's family did not have an icebox until after WW2. 
Her mother and grandmother washed cotton in the manner described below.  Her 
mother didn't own linen because it was expensive.  Her grandmother may have 
had linen because her family was middle class.

1. They washed their clothing on a washboard and dried it on a clothesline.
2. Prior to ironing, a large pot was with boiling water was on the stove.  A 
box of Argo starch was emptied into the water.  The starch bath was after 
the clothes were line-dried.
3. Everything cotton was ironed except the sheets.  The clothes to be ironed 
were dipped into the starch potted and wrung out before they cooled.
4. The items was laid flat and rolled into a sausage shape.
5. Depending on the weather, the items were placed into a tub in the cold 
creek's water or in the bucket for the well.  The well was like one you 
would think of in the 19th Century...non-electric.
6. My grandmother's iron was made of iron and was put on top of the 
wood-burning stove to get hot.
7. They ironed the items and if it had dried out what so ever, they 
sprinkled the fabric with water.
8. Her mother was very picky about her iron.  IF mom or her sisters got a 
spot of starch on the iron or clothes, she made them do the whole wash over 
again.

Starching heavily served two purposes:
1. Mom stated that previously to WnW fabric, cotton wrinkled very badly and 
ironing it wet with the starch kept the wrinkles out.
2. Fabric that was heavily starched repelled dirt.

Mom said that until Wash-n-Wear (WnW) fabric was affordable in the 1960s, 
that she starched all our family's clothing with Argo starch baths.  My mom 
said she washed and ironed daily.  We had 10 people living at home in the 
early 1960s.  I guess I could interview my older sister about this.  I am 15 
years younger than her and there are three brothers in-between us.  In our 
home, the females took care of the housework.  The opposite of my present 
day family...my chore is the laundry.   My mom had 13 siblings, but she 
said, they didn't own as many clothes as people have today.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen
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I was born in 1934 as was your mother, Penny.  We lived on a farm in central Florida - no running water in the house (except for the hand pump in the kitchen) and no electricity.  My mother used to do the wash in a big iron pot, but she would go out by the well and build a fire early in the morning.  Then put the iron pot on the coals and fill it with water from the well.  She would wash in that one and rinse in another pot of cold water.  Pretty much the only difference was she would starch the clothes before she hung them out to dry.  Then she would sprinkle them, roll them up and put them in a basket to iron.  She didn't try to get them cold though - just let them sit overnight.  Next day, she would iron in the kitchen where she kept three irons on the wood stove.  When one got cool, she would switch to another one.  There were two reasonably light ones and one monster. I don't remember what she used the monster for, but I suspect it was for daddy's heavy pants.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- penny@costumegallery.com wrote:

From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 01:09:17 -0400

I spoke to my mom about the lists' recent discussion about cooling linen/cotton before ironing.  My mom was born in 1934 and came from the timber area of  south-central Alabama.  The depression was really hard for people in this area.  Poverty is still high in this area and timber is still the principal economy.  Mom's family did not have an icebox until after WW2.  Her mother and grandmother washed cotton in the manner described below.  Her mother didn't own linen because it was expensive.  Her grandmother may have had linen because her family was middle class.

1. They washed their clothing on a washboard and dried it on a clothesline.
2. Prior to ironing, a large pot was with boiling water was on the stove.  A box of Argo starch was emptied into the water.  The starch bath was after the clothes were line-dried.
3. Everything cotton was ironed except the sheets.  The clothes to be ironed were dipped into the starch potted and wrung out before they cooled.  
4. The items was laid flat and rolled into a sausage shape.  
5. Depending on the weather, the items were placed into a tub in the cold creek's water or in the bucket for the well.  The well was like one you would think of in the 19th Century...non-electric.  
6. My grandmother's iron was made of iron and was put on top of the wood-burning stove to get hot.
7. They ironed the items and if it had dried out what so ever, they sprinkled the fabric with water. 
8. Her mother was very picky about her iron.  IF mom or her sisters got a spot of starch on the iron or clothes, she made them do the whole wash over again.   

Starching heavily served two purposes:  
1. Mom stated that previously to WnW fabric, cotton wrinkled very badly and ironing it wet with the starch kept the wrinkles out.  
2. Fabric that was heavily starched repelled dirt.

Mom said that until Wash-n-Wear (WnW) fabric was affordable in the 1960s, that she starched all our family's clothing with Argo starch baths.  My mom said she washed and ironed daily.  We had 10 people living at home in the early 1960s.  I guess I could interview my older sister about this.  I am 15 years younger than her and there are three brothers in-between us.  In our home, the females took care of the housework.  The opposite of my present day family...my chore is the laundry.   My mom had 13 siblings, but she said, they didn't own as many clothes as people have today.   
       
Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Hi, all..

No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown floozies on Saturday nite - I know its not an historic thing and I also know some of you do stage productions; my impression is that most do academic stage work, which I did for 27 years. For the last 7 years it has been community theatre in Texas. I really would appreciate help. This character just won't come for Saturday night.
You may contact me offline if you like at the above eaddress.
Second request: does anyone use the "Costume Bible" ? Those of you who know this software, what are your impressions? Please?
Thank you,
Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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AVC wrote:
> Hi, all..
> 
> No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown floozies on Saturday nite



It's hard for me to answer without knowing more about the character. Is 
she a young bubblehead? An older, tired woman down on her luck?  When 
you say 'floozy' do you mean prostitute? Or is she just promiscuous? Is 
she supposed to be desireable to the other characters, or not? What is 
she doing in the scene? Dancing? Sitting? Picking up guys?

And seeing as how you're in rural Texas, how close to home are you going 
to hit with this gal, and are you likely to insult anyone?



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
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Annie's a wonder!  I've missed Costume College the last 2 years... hope to =
get back to it next year... Kathy=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFro=
m: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>=0ATo: Historical Costume <h-costu=
me@indra.com>=0ASent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 12:28:58 PM=0ASubject: Re:=
 [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A=0A=0AMu=
st be! I was the person running to the bus like a crazy person,=0Awishing I=
 looked less like a woman who is old enough to remember the=0Aexhibit at th=
e de Young and more like Indiana Jones running for the=0Aplane. Thank goodn=
ess Annie, in charge of the tour, and I are old=0Afriends and I knew she'd =
wait for me.=0A=0ALynn=0A=0AOn 8/22/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumb=
ria@yahoo.com> wrote:=0A> I must have been on the bus with you!  Kathy=0A>=
=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@=
gmail.com>=0A> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>=0A> Sent: Wedne=
sday, August 22, 2007 10:04:10 AM=0A> Subject: Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibi=
t (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A>=0A>=0A> I also went while it wa=
s in L.A., and I saw it as a 20-something (22?)=0A> when the exhibit was in=
 San Francisco at the de Young in the 70s. Yes,=0A> this tour doesn't have =
the mask, but it has more, much more than I=0A> remember at the first show.=
 It has the ebony throne with insets you've=0A> seen all your life while lo=
oking at the Tutankhamon books. The chest=0A> with the Pharoah in the chari=
ot hunting is there and even more lovely=0A> than in the best photograph yo=
u've ever seen. It has a leather dog=0A> collar, showing the fine work that=
 was done on this everyday object. I=0A> was lucky enough to be walking wit=
h a man who does leather work and a=0A> woman who works with natural dyes. =
Their input on this little object=0A> make it alive. The way the exhibit wa=
s set up was very nice; it gave=0A> some good history and actually showed a=
 decent map of the whole Valley=0A> of the Kings and the Valley of the Quee=
ns with the more famous tombs=0A> listed. It merged my picture of the Valle=
y and what I had learned=0A> together and made more sense. I spent the extr=
a money and rented the=0A> audio package offered; imagine my pleasure to he=
ar both Omar Shariff=0A> and Dr. Hawass, Head of the Department of Egyptian=
 Antiquitites (or=0A> something like that) on this package. This whole exhi=
bit brought tears=0A> to my eyes several times - especially the canoptic ja=
r with the=0A> lioness lounging on the top with her tongue out and the walk=
ing cane=0A> with the handle carved as a Nubian slave. I rode to LACMA on a=
 bus=0A> with a tour from Costume College, and I actually had to skip the l=
ast=0A> room and the shop in order to get to the bus at the appointed time,=
 I=0A> had spent so much time looking at the objects on display.=0A>=0A> Th=
e exhibit that toured in the 1970s was an exhibit of objects, lovely=0A> ob=
jects but there was no attempt to put them into perspective of the=0A> time=
 when they were in use; they were in display cases under lights=0A> under g=
uard with small notes saying what they were, when given to the=0A> collecti=
on, etc., the ususal stuff in a museum. This current exhibit=0A> really exp=
lains them to those people who haven't been, as Chris said,=0A> an "armchai=
r Egyptophile" for 40 years as I have. I'm sure this is=0A> also a process =
of change from what a museum was in 1970-something to=0A> now. Also, as a t=
our it has been underwritten by companies who have=0A> put big bucks into t=
he display of these gorgeous objects.=0A>=0A> SO, the bottom line? Yeah, I =
think it would be worth it to see the=0A> exhibit. If you've ever read any =
book about Tutankhamon and seen any=0A> pictures, you can almost guarantee =
that you'll see it in the exhibit=0A> -- and things you've never seen befor=
e. Except the mask.=0A>=0A> LynnD=0A>=0A> On 8/22/07, Gytha Stonegrinder <g=
ythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com> wrote:=0A> > I saw the exhibit in Los Angeles =
and enjoyed it very much.  I hadn't seen previous exhibits, though I've see=
n the magazine pictures.... and the gold mask was there.  In terms of histo=
ry and costume (particularly jewelry) it was very nice.  I would recommend =
the effort!  Kathy=0A> >=0A> >=0A> > ----- Original Message ----=0A> > From=
: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>=0A> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@in=
dra.com>=0A> > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:42:06 PM=0A> > Subject: [h=
-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A> >=0A> >=
=0A> > On Aug 21, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:=0A> >=0A> > > The =
King Tut exhibit in Philadelphia in mid Sept.  Has anyone been=0A> > > to i=
t?  I would like to know if it is worth the trip.  I was going=0A> > > to s=
ee the exhibit in Florida when it was there.  A friend told my=0A> > > sist=
er that this tour was not that good.  I would like some=0A> > > feedback fr=
om someone who has seen it in PA, CA, or FL.=0A> >=0A> > Co-workers of mine=
 who went to see it were disappointed, mostly (I=0A> > gathered)  because t=
hey hadn't realized beforehand that some of the=0A> > most spectacular arti=
facts stayed home this time, such as the famous=0A> > gold mask.=0A> >=0A> =
> Reading between the lines, though, it sounded pretty interesting to=0A> >=
 me as long as you go with an open mind and don't assume it's=0A> > necessa=
rily designed for maximum "splash" like previous Tut exhibits.=0A> > (Old a=
rmchair Egyptophile speaking here.)=0A> >=0A> > ___________________________=
_________________________________=0A> >=0A> > O    Chris Laning <claning@ig=
c.org> - Davis, California=0A> > +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://=
paternosters.blogspot.com=0A> > ___________________________________________=
_________________=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> > _________________________________=
______________=0A> > h-costume mailing list=0A> > h-costume@mail.indra.com=
=0A> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >  =
     ______________________________________________________________________=
______________=0A> > Luggage? GPS? Comic books?=0A> > Check out fitting gif=
ts for grads at Yahoo! Search=0A> > http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni=
_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Dbz=0A> > _______________________________=
________________=0A> > h-costume mailing list=0A> > h-costume@mail.indra.co=
m=0A> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A> >=0A> ________=
_______________________________________=0A> h-costume mailing list=0A> h-co=
stume@mail.indra.com=0A> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> __________________________________________________________=
__________________________=0A> Pinpoint customers who are looking for what =
you sell.=0A> http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/=0A> _______________________=
________________________=0A> h-costume mailing list=0A> h-costume@mail.indr=
a.com=0A> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A>=0A__________=
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mail.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A =
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:36:18 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] 1957 Thanks
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Thanks to everyone for their ideas and input, especially Juliana and
Mary who called their own mothers!

I had already been checking at the library, as most of you had
suggested, but there are gaps in the files.  I was also hoping to find
information on costs of boutonnieres, invitations, etc..  At this point
the SiL's get to go dig in their own branch library :).

Costume content:  part of the dress has now been remade into a ring
pillow, with suitable embroidery, to be used for the blessing of their
new anniversary rings.  Part of the satin of the underdress is now a
ribbon-style rose boutonniere for my father-in-law to wear.

Thanks again!
Catherine

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Costume College 2008 registration (was Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit
	(WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
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On Aug 23, 2007, at 12:39 PM, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Annie's a wonder!  I've missed Costume College the last 2 years...  
> hope to get back to it next year... Kathy

I'm sorry to inform you of this, but Costume College 2008  
registration sold out around lunch on Sunday of this year's College.  
I believe there is a waiting list, but I also believe it's pretty  
long already. If you're not already registered, your chances of  
getting in are pretty slim.

The CGW board is considering how to solve this issue while  
maintaining the quality of their classroom instruction, but that's  
not going to change things for College 2008 registration.

If you need your costume event fix for next year, please check out  
Costume-Con 26 in San Jose (April 25-28, 2008) <http://www.cc26.info/ 
 >. Many of the Angelenos are planning to come up for our event.  
We've got folks with extensive historical costume background on our  
committee, including Shelly Monson, Aurie Bradley, Elanor Farrell and  
Jennifer Tifft. Our Friday night Social is the "Victorian Underwear  
Party." Our vice-chair is in the used luxury car business and is an  
antique car show judge; she's working her connections to get some  
interesting vintage cars for early-20th century photo shoots. There  
should be plenty of activities for historical costume enthusiasts.

You can check out the history of Costume-Con in the Costume- 
ConNections Photo archive; you can find 24 years of historical  
competition entries there <http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/>.

andy
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1957 Thanks
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Catherine, this all sounds delightful! I hope you continue to give us updates.

LynnD

On 8/23/07, Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for their ideas and input, especially Juliana and
> Mary who called their own mothers!
>
> I had already been checking at the library, as most of you had
> suggested, but there are gaps in the files.  I was also hoping to find
> information on costs of boutonnieres, invitations, etc..  At this point
> the SiL's get to go dig in their own branch library :).
>
> Costume content:  part of the dress has now been remade into a ring
> pillow, with suitable embroidery, to be used for the blessing of their
> new anniversary rings.  Part of the satin of the underdress is now a
> ribbon-style rose boutonniere for my father-in-law to wear.
>
> Thanks again!
> Catherine
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:55:34 -0700
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But it is somewhat related. When we do a Victorian picnic, with appropriate
costumes, of course, we will now be able to have period correct beverages,
too!(OK, it is a stretch) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Linda Rice
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:26 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks

True sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm, so
that it dissolves completely. I've seen some folks add cups, yes plural, to
a pitcher of tea. I call tea that sweet "Tea syrup", mainly because I find
it way too sweet. Some folks do like it though, and if you go to a
restaurant in especially rural places in the South, just expect that's what
you're going to get, and probably won't be able to get unsweet tea at all.
Cities are changing, but countryfolk are slower to do so. My dad, for
example, hated having to add sugar to a glass of iced tea because he said it
never really dissolved. Yes, he was very "country"!

I have absolutely zero costume content to add here, sorry! 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 4:21 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks

Is this sweet iced tea specially made or just iced tea with sugar? In Calif
our iced tea comes without sugar, so you just put in however much you want
(if any). 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
Behalf Of picmajik@bellsouth.net
Try
finding sweet tea in Florida! Once you get south of the panhandle you are no
longer in the South as far as food and drink are concerned. I did run into
one nice waiter in Orlando who was from Georgia and he agreed to make me a
pitcher of sweet tea. He got a nice tip!




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:06:58 -0700
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I just got a birthday card with the prices of stuff in 1954, so check the
local card stores. Our library has a city archive, they might have stuff.
Also old magazines and newspapers. Might not have wedding dress prices, but
will surely have regular dress prices. Oh, and try Sears catalogues. Or call
their headquarters, they'd probably have old catalogues or prices. A last
thought would be any seamstresses in your area who were in business back
then. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 5:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957

Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in 1957?
I'm not looking for a current value but what something would have cost in
1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??  

My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to
prepare a card where the punchline is "50 years together, priceless". 
They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this year for
the rest of the bit.  For some reason they thought I would know about the
dress :).

Thanks,
Catherine
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: coffee
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Great daylily catalogue on line! And all parts are edible. You can eat the
tubers, the young leaves and the buds. (think fried zuchinni buds) Settlers
crossing the prairies used them a lot. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee

 
In a message dated 8/21/2007 4:42:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Then you  should try Cannas


************
 
And daylilies. Talk about maintenance free! And they come is some amazing
varieties, not just the tawny ditch lily. Check out this vendor!
 
_http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000_
(http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000) 
 
 
Of course the actual blooms only last a day so you can't really cut them
and bring them inside. But they bloom day after day, especially if you water
them when they 1st start coming up in the spring. They spread  too.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL
at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: coffee
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:19:25 -0400
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The flowers are also lovely & tasty in salads.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 6:12 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: coffee

Great daylily catalogue on line! And all parts are edible. You can eat
the
tubers, the young leaves and the buds. (think fried zuchinni buds)
Settlers
crossing the prairies used them a lot.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
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Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: coffee

=20
In a message dated 8/21/2007 4:42:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Then you  should try Cannas


************
=20
And daylilies. Talk about maintenance free! And they come is some
amazing
varieties, not just the tawny ditch lily. Check out this vendor!
=20
_http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=3Ds000_
(http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=3Ds000)=20
=20
=20
Of course the actual blooms only last a day so you can't really cut them
and bring them inside. But they bloom day after day, especially if you
water
them when they 1st start coming up in the spring. They spread  too.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new
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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:09:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Costume College 2008 registration (was Re: [h-cost] King Tut
	exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you... Lynn just broke the news... I will try to get my daughter and =
I on the waiting list just in case... she thinks CostumeCon sounds interest=
ing, we may have to check that out!  Kathy aka Gytha=0A=0A=0A----- Original=
 Message ----=0AFrom: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>=0ATo: Historic=
al Costume <h-costume@indra.com>=0ASent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 1:14:13 =
PM=0ASubject: Costume College 2008 registration (was Re: [h-cost] King Tut =
exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)=0A=0A=0AOn Aug 23, 2007, at 1=
2:39 PM, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:=0A> Annie's a wonder!  I've missed Costu=
me College the last 2 years...  =0A> hope to get back to it next year... Ka=
thy=0A=0AI'm sorry to inform you of this, but Costume College 2008  =0Aregi=
stration sold out around lunch on Sunday of this year's College.  =0AI beli=
eve there is a waiting list, but I also believe it's pretty  =0Along alread=
y. If you're not already registered, your chances of  =0Agetting in are pre=
tty slim.=0A=0AThe CGW board is considering how to solve this issue while  =
=0Amaintaining the quality of their classroom instruction, but that's  =0An=
ot going to change things for College 2008 registration.=0A=0AIf you need y=
our costume event fix for next year, please check out  =0ACostume-Con 26 in=
 San Jose (April 25-28, 2008) <http://www.cc26.info/ =0A>. Many of the Ange=
lenos are planning to come up for our event.  =0AWe've got folks with exten=
sive historical costume background on our  =0Acommittee, including Shelly M=
onson, Aurie Bradley, Elanor Farrell and  =0AJennifer Tifft. Our Friday nig=
ht Social is the "Victorian Underwear  =0AParty." Our vice-chair is in the =
used luxury car business and is an  =0Aantique car show judge; she's workin=
g her connections to get some  =0Ainteresting vintage cars for early-20th c=
entury photo shoots. There  =0Ashould be plenty of activities for historica=
l costume enthusiasts.=0A=0AYou can check out the history of Costume-Con in=
 the Costume- =0AConNections Photo archive; you can find 24 years of histor=
ical  =0Acompetition entries there <http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/>.=
=0A=0Aandy=0A_______________________________________________=0Ah-costume ma=
iling list=0Ah-costume@mail.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listi=
nfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A      _______________________________________________=
_____________________________________=0APark yourself in front of a world o=
f choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.=0Aht=
tp://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing Cold Cotton/Linen
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After all these interesting tales of historical laundering, I asked my 
mother what she remembers. 

She was born in 1937; he father was an executive at the paper mill in 
Old Town, Maine. She wrote:

"My mother had a hired girl/woman who did all the personal stuff by hand 
and then ironed the next day. Sheets, towels, my father's white shirts, 
and dry cleaning were sent out to the local laundry/cleaners who picked 
up and delivered.   The laundry did the starching on the shirts, plus 
the girl (or sometimes a woman) did hand starching as needed.

My mother taught us how to iron properly, although we didn't have to do 
it often.  One had to be very careful of iron temperature if clothes had 
starch - it's easy to 'caramelize' the starch and then you have to start 
all over!  Not to mention getting distracted and letting the iron sit 
too long in one spot.

Linen, to be ironed correctly was supposed to be uniformly damp (but not 
wet!) . One did the seams first to start them drying out and then likely 
touched them up again once the smooth, single-layer fabric had been done."

cv
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery
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Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the 
silver spangeled suit.
This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak Street, 
London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious work. I 
am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last embroidery 
on the second pocket flap................
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 15:00:52 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] last embroidery
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Wow! It is beautiful Bjarne!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 2:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery



Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the
silver spangeled suit.
This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak Street,
London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious work. I
am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last embroidery
on the second pocket flap................
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:56:50 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] last embroidery
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At 11:26 AM 8/24/2007, you wrote:

>Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of 
>the silver spangeled suit.
>This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
>10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak 
>Street, London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and 
>tedious work. I am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
>Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last 
>embroidery on the second pocket flap................
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
>
>Bjarne

It will be a stunningly beautiful ensemble!  I wish I could see it 
sparkle by candlelight.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for sources, etc.
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 12:29:04 -0700
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There was a movie, "Hope Floats", (1998) starring Sandra Bullock, about a
woman who returns to small Texas town after something (I don't remember).
There is a scene in it when she goes out on Saturday night to local watering
hole to drink and dance. It might help. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AVC
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 8:21 AM
To: h-costume posts
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for sources, etc.

Hi, all..

No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown
floozies on Saturday nite - I know its not an historic thing and I also know
some of you do stage productions; my impression is that most do academic
stage work, which I did for 27 years. For the last 7 years it has been
community theatre in Texas. I really would appreciate help. This character
just won't come for Saturday night.
You may contact me offline if you like at the above eaddress.
Second request: does anyone use the "Costume Bible" ? Those of you who know
this software, what are your impressions? Please?
Thank you,
Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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My bet is they all have websites for their businesses, with pictures!

Fran

S
> 
> No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown
> floozies on Saturday nite - I know its not an historic thing and I also know
> some of you do stage productions; my impression is that most do academic
> stage work, which I did for 27 years. For the last 7 years it has been
> community theatre in Texas. I really would appreciate help. This character
> just won't come for Saturday night.
> You may contact me offline if you like at the above eaddress.
> Second request: does anyone use the "Costume Bible" ? Those of you who know
> this software, what are your impressions? Please?
> Thank you,
> Audy

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	<63043.72.13.239.193.1187706950.squirrel@webmail.patriot.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] regional things, was re: iced drinks
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:02:49 -0700
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But we didn't have IKEA in those days. I was very pleasantly surprised by
some of their prices/quality. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of aquazoo@patriot.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] regional things, was re: iced drinks

> True sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm, 
> so that it dissolves completely.

     I've made it that way - it makes sense.   To me, the funniest thing
is that people in different areas will claim theirs is "the best"
iced tea.  My mom is a good one for that - rather than saying she likes the
tea in  her area, she tells me they claim it's the best. 
So I said I heard that people in North Carolina claim *theirs* is the best.
>;->

     These days there are so many teas, blends and tisanes that are good
cold.  I suppose you can't make "sun tea" as proper sweet tea.  And some
blends are lovely without sugar, the same way as I like some hot teas with
or without milk and sugar depending on the type of tea.

     As homogenized as things get these days, we still have regional
differences, besides the obvious climate and sports team themes. 
Hmmmn, does that steer it back to costume?  :-)

     Actually one thing that is interesting is the amount of consumer
pressure these days compared to 25 or 30 years ago.  My niece is starting
college this year and had to coordinate with her new roommate on the colors
and styles of sheets, towels, curtains, etc. 
For myself and my brothers, we were allowed to root through the linen closet
for things to take to school.  :-)

     -Carol

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT- brewing iced tea
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:06:13 -0700
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"Yorkshire Gold" makes a nice light brown, plus it tastes really good! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:46 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT- brewing iced tea

Funny enough I just got an email from Cooks Illustrated about their tea
tasting  -- here's the link if you would like to read it.
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/printtasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104

or
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/tasting.asp?tastingid=592&bdc=7104&extcode=N
07MH1AA1

They are the people that have a TV show on PBS and a cooking magazine
without advertisements.


Now- back to topic.

the best tea dying I have found is from Nambarrie's Tea from Belfast - it
dyes cups, teeth and fabrics.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for sources, etc.
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Also, in "Thelma and Louise" the main characters spend several scenes in a 
Texas (I think) dance hall/bar. There are plenty of people in the background 
to look at. Not sure when it's supposed to take place -- they drive a 
60something convertible, IIRC.


> There was a movie, "Hope Floats", (1998) starring Sandra Bullock, about a
> woman who returns to small Texas town after something (I don't remember).
> There is a scene in it when she goes out on Saturday night to local 
> watering
> hole to drink and dance. It might help.

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>      Actually one thing that is interesting is the amount of consumer
> pressure these days compared to 25 or 30 years ago.  My niece is starting
> college this year and had to coordinate with her new roommate on the colors
> and styles of sheets, towels, curtains, etc. 
> For myself and my brothers, we were allowed to root through the linen closet
> for things to take to school.  :-)
> 
>      -Carol


I can't believe parents have forgone the Great Upgrade opportunity.  For 
my parents' generation, the kids moving out was the time to discard all 
the functional, but used-and-battered, or 
received-as-a-gift-and-disliked, household linens, rugs, furniture, 
cookware, and small appliances; so they could guiltlessly buy themselves 
  the things THEY really wanted!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Uh..no. Hope Floats is one of my favorite movies. The main character's
husband has an affair with Birdie's (main character) best friend and Birdie
is brought on a Springer type show and told by her "best" friend about the
affair. So Birdie and her daughter go back to her home town to live with her
mother.
The bar scene that Birdie is in has regular people at the bar. The person
she outs to the bar crowd as having work done on her breasts is the town's
snob/gossip.
Not sure what to suggest for the floozy. Best Little Whorehouse in Texas?

De


-----Original Message-----
There was a movie, "Hope Floats", (1998) starring Sandra Bullock, about a
woman who returns to small Texas town after something (I don't remember).
There is a scene in it when she goes out on Saturday night to local watering
hole to drink and dance. It might help.

-----Original Message-----
No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown
floozies on Saturday nite - I know its not an historic thing and I also know
some of you do stage productions; my impression is that most do academic
stage work, which I did for 27 years. For the last 7 years it has been
community theatre in Texas. I really would appreciate help. This character
just won't come for Saturday night.
You may contact me offline if you like at the above eaddress.
Second request: does anyone use the "Costume Bible" ? Those of you who know
this software, what are your impressions? Please?
Thank you,
Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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From: "Susan" <sclark935@austin.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] last embroidery
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:16:22 -0500
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As always, these are stunningly magnificent!  I wish I could afford to have 
you make a suit for my husband, he starts drooling every time I show him 
your pictures. :)

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 1:26 PM
Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery


>
> Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the 
> silver spangeled suit.
> This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
> 10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak 
> Street, London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and 
> tedious work. I am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
> Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last 
> embroidery on the second pocket flap................
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
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I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone 
know of a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The 
body of the dress I think I can figure out.

Here are some examples: 
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg



Dawn

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On page 115 of the Tudor Tailor, there is a pattern/diagram. I personally think that the "alternate cut" given looks closer to the ones shown in the portraits you provided.
   
  Good luck!
   
  Teena

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone 
know of a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The 
body of the dress I think I can figure out.

Here are some examples: 
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg



Dawn

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] last embroidery
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Gorgeous, as always!  I'm drooling over your work.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Aug 24, 2007, at 2:26 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>
> Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the=20
> silver spangeled suit.
> This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
> 10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak=20
> Street, London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and=20
> tedious work. I am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the=20
> result.
> Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last=20
> embroidery on the second pocket flap................
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
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References: <46CF4F68.4000204@reddawn.net>
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I agree too that the "alternative cut" gives a more portrait look,
although I've only played with both as possible sleeves for Tonner's new
12" Agnes Dreary doll. Now that I have a digital camera, I can take pics
of the project in progress--when I get to doing it--and maybe share
those pics, if anyone on the list might be interested.

You could also try Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen
1500-1800." There is a bell sleeve pattern with an alternative "Lady
Jane Grey" sleeve that is cut on the bias. Now that "Lady Jane Grey"
sleeve should be called "Queen Katherine Parr" as the portrait Hunnisett
adapted it from has been reidentified as the later.=20

Hunnisett also has scale patterns of Tudor bodices, foreparts.
Undersleeves, and overskirts.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 5:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves

On page 115 of the Tudor Tailor, there is a pattern/diagram. I
personally think that the "alternate cut" given looks closer to the ones
shown in the portraits you provided.
  =20
  Good luck!
  =20
  Teena

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone
know of a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The
body of the dress I think I can figure out.

Here are some examples:=20
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
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In a message dated 8/24/2007 6:22:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Hunnisett also has scale patterns of Tudor bodices,  foreparts.
Undersleeves, and overskirts.



**************
 
Indeed. And they all look quite good when made up.
 
One problem you might [will] encounter is keeping the wide neckline on the  
shoulders once you've got that huge and heavy sleeve set into the armseye. A  
very very tight armseye [and that V back] does the trick. Look at the  portrait 
of Jane Seymore and you can see how tight the armseye looks. 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 10:27:17 +1000
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This website 
http://livinghistory.co.uk/homepages/tudorcostumes/howtosleeves.html has a 
diagram of the basic sleeve pattern which is not that different to those in 
Tudor Tailor or Hunnisett, though, all the other sleeve patterns I've seen 
have a more square bell rather than the rounded one on this website.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves


> I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone know 
> of a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The body of 
> the dress I think I can figure out.
>
> Here are some examples: 
> http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg
>
> http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg
>
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg
>
>
>
> Dawn
>

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Beteena Paradise wrote:
> On page 115 of the Tudor Tailor, there is a pattern/diagram. I personally think that the "alternate cut" given looks closer to the ones shown in the portraits you provided.
>    

Duh! I have that book! For some reason I was thinking it only covered 
lower class clothing.

Thanks!



Dawn

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Aside from it's beauty, I amazed at the speed at which you work!  Wow!
It is beautiful!
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:26 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery



  Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the =

  silver spangeled suit.
  This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
  10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak =
Street,=20
  London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious =
work. I=20
  am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
  Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last =
embroidery=20
  on the second pocket flap................
  =
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel=
htm>


  Bjarne




  Leif og Bjarne Drews
  www.my-drewscostumes.dk<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/>

  =
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/<http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/> =



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Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 00:30:49 -0300
From: "Zelina Silverfox" <zelina@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for sources, etc.
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If you are looking for something north of the border..perhaps take a
look at the Calgary stampede in it's historical context and go from
there.  Apparently there are generations of girls that work that
route.
Hope to have  helped.

Z

On 8/24/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> Uh..no. Hope Floats is one of my favorite movies. The main character's
> husband has an affair with Birdie's (main character) best friend and Birdie
> is brought on a Springer type show and told by her "best" friend about the
> affair. So Birdie and her daughter go back to her home town to live with her
> mother.
> The bar scene that Birdie is in has regular people at the bar. The person
> she outs to the bar crowd as having work done on her breasts is the town's
> snob/gossip.
> Not sure what to suggest for the floozy. Best Little Whorehouse in Texas?
>
> De
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> There was a movie, "Hope Floats", (1998) starring Sandra Bullock, about a
> woman who returns to small Texas town after something (I don't remember).
> There is a scene in it when she goes out on Saturday night to local watering
> hole to drink and dance. It might help.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> No answers to my request for ideas, impressions, images on modern cowtown
> floozies on Saturday nite - I know its not an historic thing and I also know
> some of you do stage productions; my impression is that most do academic
> stage work, which I did for 27 years. For the last 7 years it has been
> community theatre in Texas. I really would appreciate help. This character
> just won't come for Saturday night.
> You may contact me offline if you like at the above eaddress.
> Second request: does anyone use the "Costume Bible" ? Those of you who know
> this software, what are your impressions? Please?
> Thank you,
> Audy
>
> in the high boonies of Central Texas
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Paula Praxis" <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] last embroidery
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I remember seeing your drawings somewhere awhile ago; your choices of color 
are beautiful!!! I also am very impressed by  your buttons- your patience is 
amazing.  Is this for you?  Where will you wear this?
I recurited a whole new following for you in Seattle last week-end.  I will 
send this link to my sister & sister in law.  I know they'll LOVE it.
Paula


>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery
>Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 20:26:00 +0200
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>
>Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the 
>silver spangeled suit.
>This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
>10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak Street, 
>London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious work. I 
>am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
>Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last 
>embroidery on the second pocket flap................
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Thankyou all for your nice response of the silver spangeled suit.
I am going to make the suit for myself, as i am going to a 3 day event in 
Bayreuth, Germany. 14th, 15th. and 16th september.
First evening, a danse and dinner soiré in the baroque "Prinsesse House" 
second evening Opera in the old baroque opera, hearing Henry Purcels "King 
Arthur" - finally last day, a picknick.........
In the opera, i am escorting Henriette whom i made the embroidered anglaise 
dress, she will wear it that evening.
I plan to take loads of pictures and post them on my pages when i get back. 
I am introducing a new wig two, i had one made after Mr. Cossway in 
"Jefferson in Paris"

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <46CF4F68.4000204@reddawn.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 01:21:25 -0700
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If you are in San Francisco this weekend, you can see them in person at the
"Golden Gate Tudor Faire" in Golden Gate Park. 
Sharon, 
(who is playing a Lady in Waiting to Queen Mary Tudor) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 2:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves

I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone know of
a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The body of the
dress I think I can figure out.

Here are some examples: 
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg



Dawn

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From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] last embroidery
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 07:46:35 -0700
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Bjarne,

Your patience and devotion to these projects amazes me!  It is stunning!

Diana
(whose new love is 18th century)

--
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
 
"Be the change you want to see in the world"
--Ghandi
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery


Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the 
silver spangeled suit.
This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak Street, 
London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious work. I 
am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last embroidery

on the second pocket flap................
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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I see Bayreuth is near Nuremburg....we will be in Germany at this time, =
near there.  Too bad I don't have anything to wear!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 7:16 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery


  Thankyou all for your nice response of the silver spangeled suit.
  I am going to make the suit for myself, as i am going to a 3 day event =
in=20
  Bayreuth, Germany. 14th, 15th. and 16th september.


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In a message dated 8/25/2007 10:20:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

hearing  Henry Purcels "King 
Arthur"


************
 
I love Purcell! His religious music is...well...divine.
His operas, but for "Dido & Aeneas", are strange affairs, being more  like 
masques, sometimes meant to be played between the acts of a play. Like "The  
Fairy Queen", whose 5 acts were meant to be inserted between the  5 acts of "A 
Midsummer Night's Dream". Consequently, they seem to be a  string of almost 
unrelated scenes. But there is much great music and hummable  ditties in the 
masques. "King Arthur" falls somewhere between "Dido" and "Fairy  Queen".
 
Of course for 1780's his music is old fashion. His output is "Restoration"  
and he died in 1695. Of course I'd love to see your take on a 1690's outfit.  
You'll have to have a full bottomed wig made!
 
And I'm so glad you like "Jefferson in Paris". I believe I recommended it  to 
you when you were making your gown a la anglais a while back. I love it,  but 
I seem to be in the minority on that score. If you want a great film full of  
full bottomed wigs, try "The Draughtsman's Contract".... another one of my  
faves! It's deliciously evil!



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 20:33:54 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Bayreuth Germany
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Hi Saragrace.
That is a shame, on the other hand, the tickets were ordered nearly a year 
ago. They had these events for the first time last year, and it was a 
succes, so they wanted to make again this year. Maybe its going to be a 
tradition?
I am having a night train directly from Copenhagen to Nürnberg, and then go 
to Bayreuth from there.
Would have ben very nice to meet you in person!

Bjarne

 I see Bayreuth is near Nuremburg....we will be in Germany at this time, 
near there.  Too bad I don't have anything to wear!

Sg





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery - Henry Purcel
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Yes you are right, to be quite correct Purcels music is two early, - they 
had a Haendel opera last year, wich would have ben more correct. But i think 
perhaps they also played old composer some times.
I know the Draughtmans Contract, its also one of those i love a lot. I 
especially like the way the costumes are done, a little exagerated, wich i 
would have done two, if i had the chance. I love the white mantuas, and the 
tall fontanges................
Yes i am very glad that you pointed me to Jefferson in Paris, its ben one of 
my favourites for a long time now.

Bjarne


I love Purcell! His religious music is...well...divine.
His operas, but for "Dido & Aeneas", are strange affairs, being more  like
masques, sometimes meant to be played between the acts of a play. Like "The
Fairy Queen", whose 5 acts were meant to be inserted between the  5 acts of 
"A
Midsummer Night's Dream". Consequently, they seem to be a  string of almost
unrelated scenes. But there is much great music and hummable  ditties in the
masques. "King Arthur" falls somewhere between "Dido" and "Fairy  Queen".

Of course for 1780's his music is old fashion. His output is "Restoration"
and he died in 1695. Of course I'd love to see your take on a 1690's outfit.
You'll have to have a full bottomed wig made!

And I'm so glad you like "Jefferson in Paris". I believe I recommended it 
to
you when you were making your gown a la anglais a while back. I love it, 
but
I seem to be in the minority on that score. If you want a great film full of
full bottomed wigs, try "The Draughtsman's Contract".... another one of my
faves! It's deliciously evil!









Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Have a wonderful time! I can't wait to see the pictures.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sat 8/25/2007 10:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery



Thankyou all for your nice response of the silver spangeled suit.
I am going to make the suit for myself, as i am going to a 3 day event =
in
Bayreuth, Germany. 14th, 15th. and 16th september.
First evening, a danse and dinner soir=E9 in the baroque "Prinsesse =
House"
second evening Opera in the old baroque opera, hearing Henry Purcels =
"King
Arthur" - finally last day, a picknick.........
In the opera, i am escorting Henriette whom i made the embroidered =
anglaise
dress, she will wear it that evening.
I plan to take loads of pictures and post them on my pages when i get =
back.
I am introducing a new wig two, i had one made after Mr. Cossway in
"Jefferson in Paris"

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Organization: Genteel Arts
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Subject: [h-cost] 2008 Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference
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Good Afternoon - 

 

I apologize for the duplicate messages for those who are members of multiple
groups.

 

We have posted links on our web site www.genteelarts.com
<http://www.genteelarts.com/>  to information for the 2008 Ladies &
Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference. The information is available as a
downloadable document in Word and PDF formats (information) and Excel and
PDF formats (registration forms). The documents contain all of the details
for next year's Conference. 

 

In a few days we will post the web page itself, which will also include
photos of some of the workshop projects and additional information on the
Angels Project. 

 

We're looking forward to seeing old and new friends next March!

 

Regards,

Carolann Schmitt

www.genteelarts.com <http://www.genteelarts.com/> 

Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 6-9, 2008

 

 

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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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I read with interest last week a discussion about dwindling fabric shopping
in New York.

No kidding!  I’ve been a costume designer in New York since 1972.  Way back
then there were several fabric districts – 57th Street, the 30’s (the
Garment District), 14th Street (cheap fabrics for off-off-Broadway and
dinner theater), and Orchard Street (Jewish-owned stores open on Sunday).
There were also stores on lower Broadway, which is now more of a college
town for NYU.  For those “in the know” there was also Louis Gladstone (up
near MOMA) and LP Thur on 23rd Street.  Diamond Discount and C&F were in the
East Village.  There was fabric and trim ALL OVER the city.

Practically all the fabric outlets outside the actual Garment District have
closed.  When it was time to renew the lease, their rents went through the
roof.  I was on Orchard Street a few days ago.  It used to be a place you
could find wonderful, affordable fabrics and trim, stacked to the ceiling in
hole-in-the-wall shops.  I was amazed to see one ultra-cool eatery after
another and up-scale shops selling witty little evening bags that cost more
than an off-Broadway production of Hamlet.

Now the Garment District itself is fighting for its life.  New zoning is
threatening to open up space once zoned for light manufacturing (cutting
rooms, etc.) to office space.  Not only the small manufacturing and design
spaces on the upper floors in the Garment District are disappearing.  The
costume shops, milliners, vintage clothing rental establishments are being
priced out of the area.  And so are the fabric and trim shops that have
always occupied the ground level.

Can this unique area be saved or will New York become a city of office
workers and Starbucks?  There is a group fighting this and we ask you, as
people interested in costume and fabric and fashion, to become involved.
Please have a look at the web site- http://savethegarmentcenter.com/.  Sign
the petition, write a letter in support. Read the letters from other costume
people under “Press and Stories.”

Meanwhile, if I can help any out-of-towners with shopping specifics in New
York, I’ll be glad to.  I just bought some perfectly lovely linen for $5.00
a yard on 39th Street. And, by the way, Greenberg & Hammer has just moved
downtown from 57th. Google their web site for information about the new
store.

Martha McCain







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http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow.aspx?
sectionid=5315&sectionname=slideshow&subsectionid=75014&subsectionname=brahisto
ry&photo=1


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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New York Garment Center is in trouble
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Hi Martha--

I have been a costume designer (1976-82), and then a swimwear
designer(1982-2003) since I graduated in 1976 with my first Masters. I now
teach in NYC in a Fashion program at the Art Institute on NYC. What you say
goes double for me. I am trying to figure out a way to get my kids
(students) into the market without getting them discouraged at the dearth of
suppliers.

This is a terrible situation--- China is sending us lead-impregnated fabrics
and there is no textile industry or contractors here in the US. We in the
industry are getting desperate.

What are we to do???

Monica

Remembering the "Good old Days"







-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Martha Kelly
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 11:13 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] New York Garment Center is in trouble


I read with interest last week a discussion about dwindling fabric shopping
in New York.

No kidding!  I’ve been a costume designer in New York since 1972.  Way back
then there were several fabric districts – 57th Street, the 30’s (the
Garment District), 14th Street (cheap fabrics for off-off-Broadway and
dinner theater), and Orchard Street (Jewish-owned stores open on Sunday).
There were also stores on lower Broadway, which is now more of a college
town for NYU.  For those “in the know” there was also Louis Gladstone (up
near MOMA) and LP Thur on 23rd Street.  Diamond Discount and C&F were in the
East Village.  There was fabric and trim ALL OVER the city.

Practically all the fabric outlets outside the actual Garment District have
closed.  When it was time to renew the lease, their rents went through the
roof.  I was on Orchard Street a few days ago.  It used to be a place you
could find wonderful, affordable fabrics and trim, stacked to the ceiling in
hole-in-the-wall shops.  I was amazed to see one ultra-cool eatery after
another and up-scale shops selling witty little evening bags that cost more
than an off-Broadway production of Hamlet.

Now the Garment District itself is fighting for its life.  New zoning is
threatening to open up space once zoned for light manufacturing (cutting
rooms, etc.) to office space.  Not only the small manufacturing and design
spaces on the upper floors in the Garment District are disappearing.  The
costume shops, milliners, vintage clothing rental establishments are being
priced out of the area.  And so are the fabric and trim shops that have
always occupied the ground level.

Can this unique area be saved or will New York become a city of office
workers and Starbucks?  There is a group fighting this and we ask you, as
people interested in costume and fabric and fashion, to become involved.
Please have a look at the web site- http://savethegarmentcenter.com/.  Sign
the petition, write a letter in support. Read the letters from other costume
people under “Press and Stories.”

Meanwhile, if I can help any out-of-towners with shopping specifics in New
York, I’ll be glad to.  I just bought some perfectly lovely linen for $5.00
a yard on 39th Street. And, by the way, Greenberg & Hammer has just moved
downtown from 57th. Google their web site for information about the new
store.

Martha McCain







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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug 26 04:13:30 2007
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 01:14:40 -0700
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ER...  Bayreuth being near Nuremberg.   Well, they are in much the same way
that LA is close to San Francisco.  Always remember that any "short-cut"
that takes you off the Autobahn will double your travel time :-)

Regina (who lived there many years and just came back from a visit to what
had always been "East Germany" when she was there before)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 9:01 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany
>
>
> I see Bayreuth is near Nuremburg....we will be in Germany at this
> time, near there.  Too bad I don't have anything to wear!
>
> Sg
>

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From: "Brangwyne" <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <LLEALCLGCCEBKHIGEMPOEEKKEOAA.marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New York Garment Center is in trouble
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 09:05:47 -0400
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Spreading the news!

Starr


>I read with interest last week a discussion about dwindling fabric shopping
> in New York.
>
> No kidding!  I've been a costume designer in New York since 1972.  Way 
> back
> then there were several fabric districts - 57th Street, the 30's (the
> Garment District), 14th Street (cheap fabrics for off-off-Broadway and
> dinner theater), and Orchard Street (Jewish-owned stores open on Sunday).
> There were also stores on lower Broadway, which is now more of a college
> town for NYU.  For those "in the know" there was also Louis Gladstone (up
> near MOMA) and LP Thur on 23rd Street.  Diamond Discount and C&F were in 
> the
> East Village.  There was fabric and trim ALL OVER the city.
>
> Practically all the fabric outlets outside the actual Garment District 
> have
> closed.  When it was time to renew the lease, their rents went through the
> roof.  I was on Orchard Street a few days ago.  It used to be a place you
> could find wonderful, affordable fabrics and trim, stacked to the ceiling 
> in
> hole-in-the-wall shops.  I was amazed to see one ultra-cool eatery after
> another and up-scale shops selling witty little evening bags that cost 
> more
> than an off-Broadway production of Hamlet.
>
> Now the Garment District itself is fighting for its life.  New zoning is
> threatening to open up space once zoned for light manufacturing (cutting
> rooms, etc.) to office space.  Not only the small manufacturing and design
> spaces on the upper floors in the Garment District are disappearing.  The
> costume shops, milliners, vintage clothing rental establishments are being
> priced out of the area.  And so are the fabric and trim shops that have
> always occupied the ground level.
>
> Can this unique area be saved or will New York become a city of office
> workers and Starbucks?  There is a group fighting this and we ask you, as
> people interested in costume and fabric and fashion, to become involved.
> Please have a look at the web site- http://savethegarmentcenter.com/. 
> Sign
> the petition, write a letter in support. Read the letters from other 
> costume
> people under "Press and Stories."
>
> Meanwhile, if I can help any out-of-towners with shopping specifics in New
> York, I'll be glad to.  I just bought some perfectly lovely linen for 
> $5.00
> a yard on 39th Street. And, by the way, Greenberg & Hammer has just moved
> downtown from 57th. Google their web site for information about the new
> store.
>
> Martha McCain
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,
	one for the blokes to look at (bra centenary)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 07:25:25 -0700
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Cut and pasted the thing twice, came back "bad request".

Laurie (not a bloke but interested in bras nonetheless)


>From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,one for the blokes to look at (bra 
>centenary)
>Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:23:06 +1000
>
>http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow.aspx?
>sectionid=5315&sectionname=slideshow&subsectionid=75014&subsectionname=brahisto
>ry&photo=1
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------
>This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCMENEPFAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany
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I guess when you live in Arizona, an hours drive is nothing.  Even the =
back way it is about an hour and a half.
When we lived in Germany we drove all over Europe....It seemed small =
compared to traveling across Texas and California!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Wanda Pease<mailto:wandap@hevanet.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 1:14 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany


  ER...  Bayreuth being near Nuremberg.   Well, they are in much the =
same way
  that LA is close to San Francisco.  Always remember that any =
"short-cut"
  that takes you off the Autobahn will double your travel time :-)

  Regina (who lived there many years and just came back from a visit to =
what
  had always been "East Germany" when she was there before)

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The distance isn't quite so bad. LA and SF are over 300 miles apart. Bayreuth and Nuremberg are about 50 miles apart. I've known people to drive farther than that for Krispy Kreme donuts! :)

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:  ER... Bayreuth being near Nuremberg. Well, they are in much the same way
that LA is close to San Francisco. 
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 11:37:10 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bra centenary
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      It works if you go to:

http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/

and click the link from there.

      I changed the subject line because it was offensive.  The  
"history" is brief, captions on each of 12 photos.  It's done in a  
factual way and not as a "men's entertainment" piece.  It's not  
porn.  I would bet many of us have better bra histories on our  
bookshelves already.

      -Carol


On Aug 26, 2007, at 10:25 AM, zelda crusher wrote:

> Cut and pasted the thing twice, came back "bad request".
>
> Laurie (not a bloke but interested in bras nonetheless)
>
>
>
>> From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,one for the blokes to look  
>> at (bra centenary)
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:23:06 +1000
>>
>> http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow.aspx?
>> sectionid=5315&sectionname=slideshow&subsectionid=75014&subsectionnam 
>> e=brahisto
>> ry&photo=1
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------
>> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>>
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>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/ 
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New York City Shopping.
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I finally dragged out my business cards from my last trip to NYC.

here they are (with my notes):

Ayazmoon Fabric
235 W 40th St (between 7th & 8th)
m-f 9-7, Sat 10-6pm, sun noon -5pm
(beaded sari fabric $15/yd)

Paron West Corp
206 W 40th,
(212) 768-3266 
no hours on card
www.paronfabrics.com

Grey Lines Linen
European Linen Fabric
260 W 39th St #4
m-f 9-6:30, Sat 10-6
www.graylinelinen.com
Linen is all they sell - from fine chemise weight to heavy coat weight in mostly 'linen' color, many many different weaves and 'feels'

Textile Kingdom Corp
554 8th ave (bet 37th & 38th)
m-f 9-7, Sat & sun 10-6
212-764-3260

B&J Fabrics
263 W 40th (near 8th)
m-f 8-5:45, Sat 9-4:45
212-354-8150

Fashion Fabric, Inc
270 W 39th St
m-f 9-7, Sat 10-7, Sun 11-5pm
800-3274322
www.fashionfabricny.com
fucia silk twill $10/yd

I can not remember which one of these places had pure linen 54" wide for $5/yd. It was a little heavier than chemise weight, but not as heavy as dress weight.

Katheryne


Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 09:40:59 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>

Oh, and don't bother hiking all the way up to Greenberg & Hammer.  It is a teeny weenie store with almost nothing to see.  IMHO, their catalogue is a much better way to shop.

Sg
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] copy rights
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Some times we speak about copy rights.
I was astunned yesterday when i read a rewiev of a new art exhibition in 
Copenhagen. A danish painter exhibits his work in Bredgade.
There was a link to his work: http://www.gma.dk/index.php?id=37&L=0
It is all copyed from the book "Dangerous Liasions".
If you schroll down under the picture to the right, there are numbers for 
more pictures...............
But he must have asked for permission or what?

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayreuth Germany
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 12:56:12 -0700
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True, in mileage they aren't far apart.  One thing I learned after living
many years over there was that you don't look at mileage so much as time it
takes :-).  I drive well over 400 miles in a weekend to see friends in
Renton, WA while I live in Portland, Oregon.  Time on a good day is about
2-3 hours.  My last trip took over 6 hours thanks to roadwork combined with
traffic.

Certainly don't mean to scare anyone off, but I've made that 50 mile trip in
two or three hours (!) sometimes.  It's good to give yourself more time than
you might judging from driving time west of the Rockies :-)

Wanda

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 8:00 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany
>
>
> The distance isn't quite so bad. LA and SF are over 300 miles
> apart. Bayreuth and Nuremberg are about 50 miles apart. I've
> known people to drive farther than that for Krispy Kreme donuts! :)
>
> Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:  ER... Bayreuth being
> near Nuremberg. Well, they are in much the same way
> that LA is close to San Francisco.
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001001c7e80f$26f93c10$b7e73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:48:32 -0500
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> Some times we speak about copy rights.
> I was astunned yesterday when i read a rewiev of a new art exhibition in 
> Copenhagen. A danish painter exhibits his work in Bredgade.
> There was a link to his work: http://www.gma.dk/index.php?id=37&L=0
> It is all copyed from the book "Dangerous Liasions".
> If you schroll down under the picture to the right, there are numbers for 
> more pictures...............
> But he must have asked for permission or what?


I think art work falls into a different category. Unless an artist is 
copying a work *exactly* and trying to pass it off as an original (forgery) 
I don't think there is a copyright issue.

Artists are free to interpret any other type of work in their own style. 
Think about Andy Warhol and the Campbell's soup can. I doubt he gave any 
commission to the Campbell Soup Co.

Denise B 

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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 15:20:57 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] copy rights
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Hi Bjarne--

How odd it is that someone would paint a picture from a photo of a costume
exhibit at the Met. Since it is his original oil painting, it might not be
a copyright issue. However, it probably would have been better to credit the
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the photos of the exhibit
seen in the catalog book for the exhibit ("Dangerous Liasons") as the
"inspiration" for the paintings. It looks like intellectual plagerism by not
crediting the source.

Monica


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 2:30 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] copy rights


Some times we speak about copy rights.
I was astunned yesterday when i read a rewiev of a new art exhibition in
Copenhagen. A danish painter exhibits his work in Bredgade.
There was a link to his work: http://www.gma.dk/index.php?id=37&L=0
It is all copyed from the book "Dangerous Liasions".
If you schroll down under the picture to the right, there are numbers for
more pictures...............
But he must have asked for permission or what?

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug 26 21:10:23 2007
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,
	one for the blokes to look at (bra centenary)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 15:16:11 -0500
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Try this
http://tinyurl.com/yrhxho

For those who find long URLs go here
http://tinyurl.com/
to shorten it.


-----Original Message-----

Cut and pasted the thing twice, came back "bad request".

Laurie (not a bloke but interested in bras nonetheless)


>
>centenary)
>Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:23:06 +1000
>
>http://aca.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow.aspx?
>sectionid=5315&sectionname=slideshow&subsectionid=75014&subsectionname=brah
isto
>ry&photo=1
>


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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 17:07:25 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
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That is an interesting question.  They are his original paintings,  copied 
from photos in the book.  I'm not sure where copyright falls on this  issue.  If 
he had posted the photos from the book, yes, he would definitely  need 
permission, and I would doubt very much if he asked for and got it--the  
Metropolitan Museum charges very high prices for reproduction rights.
 
Someone with more knowledge may weigh in.  I know that artists can  copy 
museum paintings, as long as they are clearly labeled as copies, but I  doubt if 
they can use them commerially.  This seems similar.  
 
However, strictly from an artistic point of view, I would be more impressed  
if the artist came up with his own concepts from the time period rather than  
copying the museum vignettes.
 
Ann Wass



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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>  
> Someone with more knowledge may weigh in.  I know that artists can  copy 
> museum paintings, as long as they are clearly labeled as copies, but I  doubt if 
> they can use them commerially.  This seems similar.  


I know that National Geographic does not allow paintings derived from 
photos or images they publish, and that they have gone after artists in 
the past. I've seen it mentioned in their magazine.

It looks like a derivative work to me, and thus a violation. But it's up 
to the Met to pursue the matter.



Dawn

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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
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I agree with Dawn - it does look like a derivative work. 

Years ago I wanted to market a needlework design based on a photo from
the newspaper. I did talk to a copyright attorney about it. He said I
couldn't without permission from the photographer. The example that he
gave was the famous photo of the flag raising on Iwo Jima. The
photographer owned the copyright on that image. No derivative work could
legally be published/sold without his permission.

kate
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,
	one for the blokes to look at (bra centenary)
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Wow. this is the first time a tinyurl didn't work.

-----Original Message-----
Try this
http://tinyurl.com/yrhxho

For those who find long URLs go here
http://tinyurl.com/
to shorten it.



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Yes, I think it is. There was, BTW, a legal case where an artist took a 
Victoria's Secret catalog lingerie photo, and did a painting from it for 
the cover of a romance novel, changing the clothes a bit (such as they 
were).  He was sued and lost.

If Bjarne is concerned he should contact the Metropolitan Museum.

Fran

ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:
> it does look like a derivative work. 
> 
>
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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,
	one for the blokes to look at (bra centenary)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:52:44 -0700
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I followed the previous advice to go to the website and search.  They were 
right, it wasn't really anything I haven't seen before.   But thanks, 
anyway!
Laurie


>From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feminists be damned,one for the blokes to look at 
>(bra centenary)
>Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 21:15:05 -0500
>
>Wow. this is the first time a tinyurl didn't work.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Try this
>http://tinyurl.com/yrhxho
>
>For those who find long URLs go here
>http://tinyurl.com/
>to shorten it.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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_________________________________________________________________
Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance to 
win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink

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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 23:29:26 -0700
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On Aug 21, 2007, at 5:58 AM, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
> 1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would  
> have
> cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??
>
My mother still has the silk chiffon cocktail dress she wore when she  
married my father in 1956. It was a second marriage, so the dress  
wasn't a standard wedding dress.  Hilariously, and completely in  
character, it turned out she forgot to cut the price tag off before  
the wedding, and it's still there.  It was from an expensive  
department store in Los Angeles, she thinks it was called  
Robinson's.  The price was $125.

Margo
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 15:22:20 +0200
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Dear Fran,
I am not conserned about the matter, i was just curious about if this was 
legally ok to do.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights


> Yes, I think it is. There was, BTW, a legal case where an artist took a 
> Victoria's Secret catalog lingerie photo, and did a painting from it for 
> the cover of a romance novel, changing the clothes a bit (such as they 
> were).  He was sued and lost.
>
> If Bjarne is concerned he should contact the Metropolitan Museum.
>
> Fran
>
> ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:
>> it does look like a derivative work.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
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Personally, I think you should tell them, and then leave it up to them 
whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise, with this being a 
foreign artist, they may not know.

Fran

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Dear Fran,
> I am not conserned about the matter, i was just curious about if this 
> was legally ok to do.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 4:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
> 
> 
>> Yes, I think it is. There was, BTW, a legal case where an artist took 
>> a Victoria's Secret catalog lingerie photo, and did a painting from it 
>> for the cover of a romance novel, changing the clothes a bit (such as 
>> they were).  He was sued and lost.
>>
>> If Bjarne is concerned he should contact the Metropolitan Museum.
>>
>> Fran
>>
>> ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:
>>
>>> it does look like a derivative work.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 11:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
working under different copyright laws than we in the
US are familiar with. 

Kimiko

--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
> leave it up to them 
> whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
> with this being a 
> foreign artist, they may not know.
> 
> Fran



       
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 http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/<http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/>

This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might =
appreciate it.

Sg
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As most countries have agreed to respect each others' copyright laws, 
you cannot legally violate the copyright of someone in a foreign country.

Fran

Kimiko Small wrote:

> It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
> working under different copyright laws than we in the
> US are familiar with. 
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
>>leave it up to them 
>>whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
>>with this being a 
>>foreign artist, they may not know.
>>
>>Fran
> 
> 
> 
> 
>        
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Subject: [h-cost] reporting copyright violations (Digest, Vol 6, Issue 398)
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Nothing is stoping ANYONE on this list from taking the
trouble to contact the Metropolitan Museum and letting
them know that there might be derrivative work going
on, since ALL of us now know about the potential
violation... If Bjorn isn't that fussed by it (and if
I'm not) that's our own problem.  

Fran, it almost sounds like YOU ought to be one of the
ones to take the inititive, since it's something you
appear to feel strongly about.  And if it isn't, then
may I ask why you're telling someone else that they
should bother?

On a related topic: if an oil painting of a costume in
an exhibit is a derivative work and a copyright
violation, is a costume based on a painting (or other
media)?  Most historical ones are probably
sufficiently well known that we're ok, but what if
someone wanted to, say, make a costume based off a
portrait/photo of, say, one of the (American) First
Lady's Inaguration Gown?  

Steph 

> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 09:04:56 -0700
> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <46D2F628.9000909@lavoltapress.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
> format=flowed
> 
> Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
> leave it up to them 
> whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
> with this being a 
> foreign artist, they may not know.
> 
> Fran
> 
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> > Dear Fran,
> > I am not conserned about the matter, i was just
> curious about if this 
> > was legally ok to do.
> > 
> > Bjarne



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Kimiko Small wrote:
> It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
> working under different copyright laws than we in the
> US are familiar with. 
> 

All of Europe is signatory to the Berne Convention. Most of the world is 
actually. Notable exceptions are Iran, Iraq, Burma, Laos and Cambodia, 
Ethiopia and Somalia, and Taiwan -- a major source DVD piracy.

He may be working under the *impression* that the laws are different 
over there, but they are not.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell psalter in motion
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Curiously enough... the woman who is costuming this project just bought two pairs of poulaines from me. :)
   
  Teena

Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/

This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might appreciate it.

Sg
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Luttrell psalter in motion
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At 12:09 PM 8/27/2007, you wrote:
>  http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/
>
>This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might 
>appreciate it.
>
>Sg

For some reason your original link was doubled, so I edited it in this reply.

What a wonderful project!  I really liked the sheep milking 
scene.  Thank you for sending this link.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] reporting copyright violations (Digest, Vol 6, Issue 398)
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> Fran, it almost sounds like YOU ought to be one of the
> ones to take the inititive, since it's something you
> appear to feel strongly about.  And if it isn't, then
> may I ask why you're telling someone else that they
> should bother?

I have missed messages in this thread because I have Bjarne in my spam 
filter list, which routes all messages with "Bjarne" in the body of the 
email to my trash folder. I usually only see his messages when quoted in 
other people's emails, and then only by accident.

Therefore, I do not know who the artist is, where the exhibition is, and 
so forth. It is useless to contact the Met saying, "I think some painter 
somewhere in Scandanavia is violating your copyrights, but I don't know 
what their name is, or at what museum or gallery the violating works are 
exhibited."  I do not even have any information as to whether any of 
these works are on a website, or whether Bjarne saw them in person 
somewhere.  The Met needs information that will enable them to contact 
the artist.

Normally, whenever I run across a copyright violation I DO immediately 
report it to the copyright owner.  As Bjarne has the necessary contact 
information, I thought it best that he do it.

Why do you find it objectionable that I suggest that Bjarne, who has the 
most information, should do this?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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In a message dated 8/27/2007 3:30:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> It  may also be that as a foreign artist
****************
 

Is he an artist? I mean, it looks like bad paint-by-number of someone  else's 
photos... of someone else's display of someone else's handiwork. At least  
when Andy Warhol did Campbell Soup cans and Roy Lichtenstein did comic book  
images, there was a point.
 
Of course the quality has nothing to do with copyright  laws



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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:57:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] last embroidery
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yet again this work just takes my breath away. I'm
just continually in awe, Bjarne.

MaggiRos
--- Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> Aside from it's beauty, I amazed at the speed at
> which you work!  Wow!
> It is beautiful!
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Bjarne og Leif
> Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 
>   To:
> h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
>   Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:26 AM
>   Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery
> 
> 
> 
>   Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery
> for the jacket of the 
>   silver spangeled suit.
>   This has ben a lot of work, with moments of
> dispare and solitude.
>   10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with
> the leaves in Beak Street, 
>   London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a
> slow and tedious work. I 
>   am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the
> result.
>   Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just
> finnished the last embroidery 
>   on the second pocket flap................
>  
>
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/celhtm>
> 
> 
>   Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Leif og Bjarne Drews
>  

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't have =
to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese.  She's supposed to=
 be the widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks & opium visiting the Spa=
nish court.

I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now I'm loo=
king for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image search turned u=
p some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying to find sketches or s=
chematics of decorative facings and embroidery that are usable to someone w=
ho doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some of the details off t=
he museum photos for me but nothing so far.

Any leads?  Thanks in advance.
Julie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 14:49:01 -0700
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On Aug 27, 2007, at 2:33 PM, Julie wrote:
> My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We  
> don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably  
> Chinese.  She's supposed to be the widow of a Chinese trader in  
> spices, silks & opium visiting the Spanish court.

It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a  
copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."

It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese  
clothing.

andy
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't have =
to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese.  She's supposed to=
 be the widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks & opium visiting the Spa=
nish court.

I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now I'm loo=
king for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image search turned u=
p some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying to find sketches or s=
chematics of decorative facings and embroidery that are usable to someone w=
ho doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some of the details off t=
he museum photos for me but nothing so far.

Any leads?  Thanks in advance.
Julie
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Julie wrote:
> My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese. 


I know Dover books has a couple on Chinese designs. They are cheap and 
readily available through most bookstores. It's all black and white line 
drawings and easy to reproduce, and permission is given with each 
purchased book to do so.

Joann's is advertising brocade on sale for $5.99 this week. You might be 
able to cut strips of that and use it as edging on something. I'm not 
sure using poly brocade for the whole dress is a good idea this time of 
year.



Dawn

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--- Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:

> I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat
> patterns.  Now I'm looking for some embroidery
> and/or applique details.  An image search turned up
> some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying
> to find sketches or schematics of decorative facings
> and embroidery that are usable to someone who
> doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some
> of the details off the museum photos for me but
> nothing so far.
> 
> Julie

The cheongsam, while a truly lovely garment, was
developed in Shanghai around 1930 from an earlier and
looser coat/robe garment (rather like this men's
garment (center one) from the late nineteenth century
in Max Tilke:
<http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/123.jpg>).

This information only brings you back to the
nineteenth century, though.  sorry.


Ann in CT


       
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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:44:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] reporting copyright violations
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> Nothing is stoping ANYONE on this list from taking the
> trouble to contact the Metropolitan Museum and letting
> them know that there might be derrivative work going
> on, since ALL of us now know about the potential
> violation...

     I tend to approach the potential violater first — if someone is using
images on their web page that were scanned from a book, for example. 
There are a lot of people who are unaware of the laws, or just don't
think about it.

     -Carol

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Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
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I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.

I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not 
noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.

I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded 
blue out of this?



Dawn




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
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Dawn, I would contact Dharmatrading company.  They are very helpful. =
http://www.dharmatrading.com/<http://www.dharmatrading.com/>
They can recommend the best color remover for linen and they probably =
sell it too!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Dawn<mailto:dawn@reddawn.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 7:55 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes


  I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century=20
  dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like =

  to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.

  I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did =
not=20
  noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

  I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric=20
  turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even=20
  then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.

  I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


  Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more =
faded=20
  blue out of this?



  Dawn




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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 21:09:35 -0600
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I don't think it's possible.  Usually when you bleach dyed fabric, it 
turns a different color.  Only thing to do is to bleach the hell out of 
it and then overdye it.  If you do that, however, you run the risk of 
damaging the fabric.  You should buy some Antichlor to remove the 
excess bleach.

You could try another lightening agent, like hydrosulfite, but I 
suspect it will do the same thing.

Sylrog

On Aug 27, 2007, at 8:55 PM, Dawn wrote:

> I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
> dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
> to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.
>
> I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did 
> not noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.
>
> I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
> turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
> then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.
>
> I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.
>
>
> Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more 
> faded blue out of this?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 23:39:12 -0400
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Long, long ago, before I understood the finer points of historical
accuracy in fabrics, I once had a lovely piece of heavy darkdark blue
linen. It was soooo nice, so I made my very first all-hand-sewn kirtle
out of it. I wore it for a year or so and was very happy. Then I learned
some stuff and I realized that I really shouldn't have such a darkdark
blue linen gown. So I endeavored to lighten it. Should be easy peasy, or
so I thought in my still-not-quite-educated mind. 

I put the dress into the washer with a couple of boxes of color remover.
I followed the directions to a T, and I waited. And waited. And, waited
some more. Finally after a full day and night of nothing happening to
the color, I rinsed it out. Bleach I thought, I bet bleach would do the
trick. So, I carefully mixed the bleach into the washer water and added
the still damp dress. And I waited and watched. 

Nothing happened. Nothing at all. 

So, I kept at this all day- a whole second day of futzing around with
this dress- and the color didn't budge. By evening I was pretty much
over this dress so I left it in the washer over night. In the words of
the great Hagrid- I "Prolly shouldna done that". Next morning the dress
was a gawdawful splotchy gray. It looked like it had been wadded up
while wet and left to mildew. Gack! What to do? 

Two boxes of Rit dye, of course! Now my dress was a mauve-elous color,
and not too splotchy looking either. Ta da! Or so I thought, in my
still-not-very-smart-but-about-to-get-a-clue brain. 

I wore the dress to an event. It was hot, so I pulled at the front of
the neckline to get a little air. RIIIIIIPP went the neckline. A few
minutes later, RIIIIIP went the elbows! Crap! I'm disintegrating in
front of the whole herd of people! Thank goodness I had an apron dress
on, or else I'da been very nervous indeed. 

Now, because I hand sewed each and every stitch in that dress, and then
went over every seam with a contrasting herringbone stitch, I was not
about to give up so easily! I cut off the top and made a linen Viking
apron dress out of it. It doesn't have any stress on it anywhere so it's
held up pretty good, even 6+ years later. 

I do not at all recommend trying to remove darkdark blue dye from linen.
YMMV, but don't count on it! 

::Linda::


On Behalf Of Dawn
Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.

I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not 
noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.

I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.

Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded 
blue out of this?


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Hello, all,

IIRC sometime in the last 2 months or so, someone posted a bunch of 
links to various Elizabethan-era portraits.  One of them (which may 
or may not have been actually Elizabeth I) showed a very large 
standing collar - not quite a ruff, but definitely higher than the 
top of the head.  Something you would need the supportasse from h**l 
to hold up.

And now I can't find it when I need it.  Does this sound familiar to 
anyone?  If it does, can you re-post the link, please?

I'm building a fantasy-oriented Elizabethan, and that large collar is 
exactly the look I want - I just can't find an image in any of my 
books and I can't seem to explain it to hubby so he can visualize it.

TIA,
Sandy   (who hopes that this will teach her to bookmark stuff she 
likes immediately!!)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I found these, but not sure if any of them are the exact one you want:
   
  http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/lizbrydges.JPG
  http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethrainbow1.jpg
  larger scan of above: http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg
  http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethditchley.jpg
  http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethhardwick.jpg
   
  Hope this helps. :)
   
  Teena

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
  Hello, all,

IIRC sometime in the last 2 months or so, someone posted a bunch of 
links to various Elizabethan-era portraits. One of them (which may 
or may not have been actually Elizabeth I) showed a very large 
standing collar - not quite a ruff, but definitely higher than the 
top of the head. Something you would need the supportasse from h**l 
to hold up.

And now I can't find it when I need it. Does this sound familiar to 
anyone? If it does, can you re-post the link, please?

I'm building a fantasy-oriented Elizabethan, and that large collar is 
exactly the look I want - I just can't find an image in any of my 
books and I can't seem to explain it to hubby so he can visualize it.

TIA,
Sandy (who hopes that this will teach her to bookmark stuff she 
likes immediately!!)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
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Yuck! What is the story behind the eyeballs and ears all over this dress? 
The snake on her arm interesting, but what is the significance? 
~Denise B
http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg



>I found these, but not sure if any of them are the exact one you want:
>

>  http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethrainbow1.jpg
>  larger scan of above: 
> http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 04:33 PM 8/27/2007, you wrote:
>My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We 
>don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably 
>Chinese.  She's supposed to be the widow of a Chinese trader in 
>spices, silks & opium visiting the Spanish court.
>
>I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now 
>I'm looking for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image 
>search turned up some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying 
>to find sketches or schematics of decorative facings and embroidery 
>that are usable to someone who doesn't draw.  I've been begging 
>hubby to draw some of the details off the museum photos for me but 
>nothing so far.
>
>Any leads?  Thanks in advance.
>Julie

I can't help as much as I'd like, I have a Tang persona, and don't 
know much about the Ming, but here are a few links to start you on 
your search.  Honestly, the earlier costumes are easier to make than 
the cheongsam.  Definitely get the 5000 Years book.  It is not 
infallible, but a great start.

Good Luck,
Genie

A few references:
http://www.marlamallett.com/ref-chinese.htm

There is one Ming costume here:
http://www2.bc.edu/~zhaoyj/dynastycustum.html

A bit of costume history with a picture (from 5000 Years of Chinese 
Costume) from the Ming dynasty:
http://www.pureinsight.org/pi/index.php?news=1342
http://www.chinavoc.com.cn/ChineseCulture/ShowArticle.aspx?Id=9278

Time line of Chinese History"
http://www-chaos.umd.edu/history/time_line.html

Some extant embroidery:
http://www.asianart.com/textiles/textile.html

History of Chinese Embroidery:
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/arts/embroidery.htm

Tomb figurines:
http://home.planet.nl/~claes027/tomb_figurines/tomb_figurines.htm

Lots of women stories here:
http://www.members.tripod.com/~journeyeast/history.html

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In a message dated 8/21/2007 9:00:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ckinsey@kumc.edu writes:

Would  anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things  in
1957? 

My mom married in 1959 with 11 days notice--her mom was not pleased but they managed to put together a wedding that fast. My dad had proposed before returning to school that fall semester and she wanted to go back to New Orleans with him instead of staying in Panama City, Florida. I think she paid @ $50 for her dress but I did send her an email asking for the dress price and other general expenses to help give you a rough idea. 

In general you can also go through microfilms of old newspapers that would have been promoting wedding items, especially the May-June issues that may have had special sections to help plan a wedding and budget guidelines.
As soon as I get my email back I'll post it for you.
Good luck!




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> 
> I do not at all recommend trying to remove darkdark blue dye from linen.
> YMMV, but don't count on it! 
> 

Oh yes, you're so right, soaking it in bleach overnight is not a good 
idea, as you illustrated. And it doesn't seem I'd get the color I wanted 
anyway.

I've found two paintings of women in dark blue dresses of the style I 
want to make, so I'm not worried about the color being wrong, it's just 
a personal preference.

I'm wondering if staking it out on the grass for a week under our 
blistering summer sun would do it.... or if I'd just get mildew and 
bugs. :)



Dawn





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Land of Oz wrote:
> Yuck! What is the story behind the eyeballs and ears all over this 
> dress? The snake on her arm interesting, but what is the significance? 
> ~Denise B
> http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg
> 

"Reason or Interest of State', or perhaps 'The Art of Government': 'She 
is represented in a garment of turquoise woven with eyes and ears to 
symbolise her jealous hold over her dominion, and her desire to have the 
eyes and ears of spies, the better to judge her own plans and foil those 
of others'. "

-- Janet Arnold, _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_

The snake appears to have been a piece of jewelery, and is mentioned in 
the wardrobe accounts. It also appears in a portrait of an unknown lady 
dated after the Queen's death, Arnold surmises it was given away.



Dawn

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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005f01c7e924$ffe80a40$6501a8c0@VMAA1>
	<46D39E97.5030801@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:55:37 -0500
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> I'm wondering if staking it out on the grass for a week under our 
> blistering summer sun would do it.... or if I'd just get mildew and bugs. 
> :)


That would work in theory -- but not staked on the grass. If you elevated it 
above the ground you would avoid the bugs and mildew. However, you couldn't 
guarantee that the piece would fade evenly, or that it would fade into a 
color you liked. It wouldn't necessarily just be lighter, it might go 
slightly green or purple or grey or ??? depending on the original dye.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
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I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:09:09 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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 It could also show that she is all-seeing, all-hearing. This could be
seen as being ever-watchful, ever protective of her realm and its
people. Elizabeth I once stated "I see, but am silent" and in her
"Golden Speech" before Parliament, near the end of her reign, confessed
that England may have had better rulers, but never one who loved her
people more. It was probably having the memories of both her father's
and elder sister's matramonial trials always in her mind the reason she
never married--as she once said that she was married to England,
indicating her coronation ring.

I'm not quite sure of the significance of the snake--but the fact that
it curls around her arm--rather like the serpent around a physician's
caudecus, might not be as sinister a symbol as we might interpret it to
be.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link

Land of Oz wrote:
> Yuck! What is the story behind the eyeballs and ears all over this=20
> dress? The snake on her arm interesting, but what is the significance?
> ~Denise B
> http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg
>=20

"Reason or Interest of State', or perhaps 'The Art of Government': 'She=20
is represented in a garment of turquoise woven with eyes and ears to=20
symbolise her jealous hold over her dominion, and her desire to have the

eyes and ears of spies, the better to judge her own plans and foil those

of others'. "

-- Janet Arnold, _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_

The snake appears to have been a piece of jewelery, and is mentioned in=20
the wardrobe accounts. It also appears in a portrait of an unknown lady=20
dated after the Queen's death, Arnold surmises it was given away.



Dawn

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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:07:14 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
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At 09:09 AM 8/28/2007, you wrote:
>  It could also show that she is all-seeing, all-hearing. This could be
>seen as being ever-watchful, ever protective of her realm and its
>people. Elizabeth I once stated "I see, but am silent" and in her
>"Golden Speech" before Parliament, near the end of her reign, confessed
>that England may have had better rulers, but never one who loved her
>people more. It was probably having the memories of both her father's
>and elder sister's matramonial trials always in her mind the reason she
>never married--as she once said that she was married to England,
>indicating her coronation ring.
>
>I'm not quite sure of the significance of the snake--but the fact that
>it curls around her arm--rather like the serpent around a physician's
>caudecus, might not be as sinister a symbol as we might interpret it to
>be.
>
>Cindy Abel

A snake is also a sign of wisdom.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Titles are not protected by copyright.

MaggiRos
--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:

> Isn't that already a book? would there be any
> copyright problems using it?
> 
> Lynn
> 
> On 8/19/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>
> wrote:
> > "The Way We Wore"
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> > Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
> > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:36 AM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] help with fashion parade?
> >
> > I'm trying to think of catchy names for a
> historical fashion parade -
> > showing under and outer garments from the last 500
> years. Any ideas?
> > And ideas how to go about it? It will be held in
> public next year - I'm
> > trying to put a proposal together.
> >
> > Thanks, Aylwen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> _______________________________________________
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> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:04:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were less likely to fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops doesn't always help. Good luck. :)
   
  Teena

Maureen Conklin <morvren@hotmail.com> wrote:
  I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Thank you. I still can't decide if the sleeves are
really falling down, or if it just feels that way. :)
Any other suggestions are welcome, too. Thanks.

~ M.

----Original Message Follows----
From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:04:08 -0700 (PDT)

I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were less likely 
to fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops doesn't always help. Good 
luck. :)

   Teena


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Someone on my live journal posted this link to an italian museum. I thoaght 
manny of you would like to see two,
Click on the years, below the drawings........
http://www.abitiantichi.it/collezione.html

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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You could try soaking it (try small pieces first) in various different dye
mordants-alum, salt, vinegar, etc. That may change the color. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 7:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century dress
out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like to lighten
it a bit. Fade it, even.

I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not
noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric turned a
chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even then, it has
dark blue dye spots all over it.

I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded blue
out of this?



Dawn




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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:58:34 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If it's a modern dress, there should be no objection to sewing bra  
loops into the shoulder seam. They're very comforting when you need  
your mind to be on other things!
Sew True in NYC www.sewtrue.com has pre-made ones, very narrow ribbon  
and tiny snaps, in black or white. I'm sure other tailoring supply  
places carry them too. I haven't noticed them in places like JoAnn's  
though.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Aug 28, 2007, at 2:04 PM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were  
> less likely to fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops  
> doesn't always help. Good luck. :)
>
>   Teena
>
> Maureen Conklin <morvren@hotmail.com> wrote:
>   I am working on a wedding gown with
> raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
> some of the examples cited within the
> past week. So, I'm wondering what to
> do when you love the look, but are worried
> about the sleeves sliding too far off the
> shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
> the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
> shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
> modern-style dress with simple princess
> lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
> silk organza. Thanks a million.
>
> ~ Maureen
>
> ==================
> ~ Twinkle, dammit! ~
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:32:35 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
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In a message dated 8/28/2007 11:01:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
landofoz@netins.net writes:

If you  elevated it 
above the ground you would avoid the bugs and mildew. 


You could still get flying/jumping bugs, like grasshoppers, too.  And  some 
of them might try to eat it.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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> My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't hav=
e to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese.  She's supposed =
to be the widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks & opium visiting the S=
panish court.
>=20
> I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now I'm l=
ooking for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image search turned=
 up some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying to find sketches or=
 schematics of decorative facings and embroidery that are usable to someone=
 who doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some of the details off=
 the museum photos for me but nothing so far.
*********************=20
> It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a =20
> copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."
>=20
> It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese =20
> clothing.
>=20
> andy
*************************
Wow!  I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it.  I'd have to se=
e a bood that expensive before I bought it.  Thanks for the lead.

***************************
> I know Dover books has a couple on Chinese designs. They are cheap and=20
> readily available through most bookstores. It's all black and white line=
=20
> drawings and easy to reproduce, and permission is given with each=20
> purchased book to do so.
*******************
That's right!  I've looked at them - with a CD as well.  Thanks for the rem=
inder.
*******************=20
> Joann's is advertising brocade on sale for $5.99 this week. You might be=
=20
> able to cut strips of that and use it as edging on something. I'm not=20
> sure using poly brocade for the whole dress is a good idea this time of=
=20
> year.
> Dawn>=20
************************
That's exactly what I bought.  One small patterned brocade to use as the co=
at and a solid for trim/facings.  Then I bought another brocade with 5" med=
allions and plan to cut them out and applique on the blouse.  I tried to fi=
nd a quilter's cotton that would have worked but didn't find anything excep=
t solids that would have to be heavily embellished.  I'm not pleased with t=
he polyester brocade for summer, but this needs to be ready by Sept. 9.
*****************>=20
> The cheongsam, while a truly lovely garment, was
> developed in Shanghai around 1930 from an earlier and
> looser coat/robe garment (rather like this men's
> garment (center one) from the late nineteenth century
> in Max Tilke:
> <http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/123.jpg>).
> Ann in CT
>=20
Yes.  I was aware of that.  I'm straddling that fine line of finding someth=
ing remotely appropriate that dd will wear.  She doesn't like the shapless =
tunics, even in beautiful fabrics.  At least I'm getting her out of her pir=
ate wench garb <G>.  One battle at a time...  I'm counting on not too many =
mundanes having a clue that the cheonsam is too modern <G>.

Julie
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> My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't hav=
e to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese.  She's supposed =
to be the widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks & opium visiting the S=
panish court.
>=20
> I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now I'm l=
ooking for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image search turned=
 up some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying to find sketches or=
 schematics of decorative facings and embroidery that are usable to someone=
 who doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some of the details off=
 the museum photos for me but nothing so far.
*********************=20
> It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a =20
> copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."
>=20
> It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese =20
> clothing.
>=20
> andy
*************************
Wow!  I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it.  I'd have to se=
e a bood that expensive before I bought it.  Thanks for the lead.

***************************
> I know Dover books has a couple on Chinese designs. They are cheap and=20
> readily available through most bookstores. It's all black and white line=
=20
> drawings and easy to reproduce, and permission is given with each=20
> purchased book to do so.
*******************
That's right!  I've looked at them - with a CD as well.  Thanks for the rem=
inder.
*******************=20
> Joann's is advertising brocade on sale for $5.99 this week. You might be=
=20
> able to cut strips of that and use it as edging on something. I'm not=20
> sure using poly brocade for the whole dress is a good idea this time of=
=20
> year.
> Dawn>=20
************************
That's exactly what I bought.  One small patterned brocade to use as the co=
at and a solid for trim/facings.  Then I bought another brocade with 5" med=
allions and plan to cut them out and applique on the blouse.  I tried to fi=
nd a quilter's cotton that would have worked but didn't find anything excep=
t solids that would have to be heavily embellished.  I'm not pleased with t=
he polyester brocade for summer, but this needs to be ready by Sept. 9.
*****************>=20
> The cheongsam, while a truly lovely garment, was
> developed in Shanghai around 1930 from an earlier and
> looser coat/robe garment (rather like this men's
> garment (center one) from the late nineteenth century
> in Max Tilke:
> <http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/123.jpg>).
> Ann in CT
>=20
Yes.  I was aware of that.  I'm straddling that fine line of finding someth=
ing remotely appropriate that dd will wear.  She doesn't like the shapless =
tunics, even in beautiful fabrics.  At least I'm getting her out of her pir=
ate wench garb <G>.  One battle at a time...  I'm counting on not too many =
mundanes having a clue that the cheonsam is too modern <G>.

Julie
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:56:02 -0400
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If you make the back in a V neckline with the point of the V about 5  
inches below the nape of the neck, they won't go anywhere, especially  
if you put twill tape in the edge of the neckline so it can't stretch  
anywhere.  If you bring the sides of the front of the neckline close  
in to the neck and put the back of the neckline at the nape of the  
neck, they really won't go anywhere.

Lingerie loops (or bra loops) are good for some things, but if the  
sleeves are heavy enough to drag the dress off her shoulders, they  
might be heavy enough to drag the brastraps off, too.

Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 28, 2007, at 11:43 AM, Maureen Conklin wrote:

> I am working on a wedding gown with
> raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
> some of the examples cited within the
> past week. So, I'm wondering what to
> do when you love the look, but are worried
> about the sleeves sliding too far off the
> shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
> the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
> shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
> modern-style dress with simple princess
> lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
> silk organza. Thanks a million.
>
> ~ Maureen
>
> ==================
> ~ Twinkle, dammit! ~
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
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On Aug 28, 2007, at 3:46 PM, Julie wrote:
>> It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a
>> copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."
>>
>> It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese
>> clothing.
>>
>> andy
> *************************
> Wow!  I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it.  I'd  
> have to see a bood that expensive before I bought it.  Thanks for  
> the lead.

The $81 copy is in Australia. The others in the $200-300 range are in  
the US and reflect the standard pricing.

There's a picture at
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0835118223/ 
ref=ord_cart_shr/104-5086103-7604733?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance>

andy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
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On Aug 28, 2007, at 3:46 PM, Julie wrote:
>> It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a
>> copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."
>>
>> It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese
>> clothing.
>>
>> andy
> *************************
> Wow!  I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it.  I'd  
> have to see a bood that expensive before I bought it.  Thanks for  
> the lead.

The $81 copy is in Australia. The others in the $200-300 range are in  
the US and reflect the standard pricing.

There's a picture at
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0835118223/ 
ref=ord_cart_shr/104-5086103-7604733?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance>

andy


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Subject: [h-cost] Book!
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So I've been told about what is essentially the holy grail of =20
Japanese Historical costume books:
"Jidai Issho no Nuikata" (ISBN: 4773984058)
<http://www.amazon.co.jp/=E6=99=82=E4=BB=A3=E8=A1=A3=E8=A3=B3=E3=81=AE=E7=B8=
=AB=E3=81=84=E6=96=B9-=E6=94=B9=E8=A8=82=E2=80=95=E5=BE=A9=E5=85=83=E5=93=81=
=20
=E3=82=92=E4=B8=AD=E5=BF=83=E3=81=A8=E3=81=97=E3=81=9F=E6=97=A5=E6=9C=AC=E4=
=BC=9D=E7=B5=B1=E8=A1=A3=E6=9C=8D=E3=81=AE=E6=A7=8B=E6=88=90=E6=8A=80=E6=B3=
=95-=E6=A0=97=E5=8E=9F-=E5=BC=98/dp/=20
4773984058/ref=3Dsr_11_1/503-4426301-8840760?=20
ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1188256160&sr=3D11-1>

I probably can figure out the patterns without reading Japanese, but =20
I can't figure out the cost or whether it's available. Anybody read =20
enough Japanese to check out the Amazon.co.jp webpage and tell me if =20
it's worth it to figure out how to buy the thing?

andy=
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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:23:00 -0400
From: "Catrijn vanden Westhende" <catrijn@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book!
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On 8/28/07, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:
> So I've been told about what is essentially the holy grail of
> Japanese Historical costume books:
> "Jidai Issho no Nuikata" (ISBN: 4773984058)
> <http://www.amazon.co.jp/$B;~Be0a>X$NK%$$J}(B-$B2~D{!=I|85IJ(B
> $B$rCf?4$H$7$?F|K\EAE}0aI~$N9=@.5;K!(B-$B7*86(B-$B90(B/dp/
> 4773984058/ref=sr_11_1/503-4426301-8840760?
> ie=UTF8&qid=1188256160&sr=11-1>
>
> I probably can figure out the patterns without reading Japanese, but
> I can't figure out the cost or whether it's available. Anybody read
> enough Japanese to check out the Amazon.co.jp webpage and tell me if
> it's worth it to figure out how to buy the thing?

It is not available.  There's a option to sign up to be notified by
e-mail if/when it becomes available.  Usually that set-up is for
things that haven't been published yet, but since it was published in
1990, it more likely means that it is completely out of print.  I
wouldn't bother signing up unless you have reason to expect another
printing run.

- Catrijn
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Why don't you just write Amazon.jp?  I'd bet someone there speaks =
English.  Also I read elsewhere that at one time it was sold by the =
Kyoto Costume Museum...maybe you could try there?

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Andrew T Trembley<mailto:attrembl@bovil.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 4:47 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Book!


  So I've been told about what is essentially the holy grail of =20
  Japanese Historical costume books:
  "Jidai Issho no Nuikata" (ISBN: 4773984058)
  =
<http://www.amazon.co.jp/<http://www.amazon.co.jp/>=E6=99=82=E4=BB=A3=E8=A1=
=A3=E8=A3=B3=E3=81=AE=E7=B8=AB=E3=81=84=E6=96=B9-=E6=94=B9=E8=A8=82=E2=80=
=95=E5=BE=A9=E5=85=83=E5=93=81=20
  =
=E3=82=92=E4=B8=AD=E5=BF=83=E3=81=A8=E3=81=97=E3=81=9F=E6=97=A5=E6=9C=AC=E4=
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=95-=E6=A0=97=E5=8E=9F-=E5=BC=98/dp/=20
  4773984058/ref=3Dsr_11_1/503-4426301-8840760?=20
  ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1188256160&sr=3D11-1>
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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:29:37 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
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> I am working on a wedding gown with
> raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
> some of the examples cited within the
> past week. So, I'm wondering what to
> do when you love the look, but are worried
> about the sleeves sliding too far off the
> shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
> the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
> shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
> modern-style dress with simple princess
> lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
> silk organza. Thanks a million.

Make sure the body side seams go far up and as close to the armpit as
is possible. The neckline can come right out the edges of the shoulder
this way. What keeps the sleeves up in my 16thC garments is this
combined with the neckline being all cut on the straight, so there is
no stretch to allow the sleeves to be pulled down. Even the extremely
wide neckline of my Anna Meyer dress doesn't fall down despite being
too wide. And with my better cut dresses I have full range of motion
in my arms.

Narrowing the top of the sleeve section will only pull the body up and
make a higher neckline, you can play around with the angle of the join
between body and sleeve to get a snugger fit.

How far have you got into the making of this dress? If you have
already cut the fashion fabric to size you may need to resort to stay
tapes at the neckline and maybe elsewhere. I have used elastic stays
with success. You make a case for them or herringbone sitch around
them (but not into the elastic) then tack one end, pull the other to
fit tack that down, trim of the excess. The area will gather a little
when not worn but fit smoothly when worn.
http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/08/butterick-4745-simplicity-3837.html
Described a little more succinctly here;)

Michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book!
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On Tuesday 28 August 2007, Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> So I've been told about what is essentially the holy grail of
> Japanese Historical costume books:
> "Jidai Issho no Nuikata" (ISBN: 4773984058)
> <http://www.amazon.co.jp/=E6=99=82=E4=BB=A3=E8=A1=A3=E8=A3=B3=E3=81=AE=E7=
=B8=AB=E3=81=84=E6=96=B9-=E6=94=B9=E8=A8=82=E2=80=95=E5=BE=A9=E5=85=83=E5=
=93=81
> =E3=82=92=E4=B8=AD=E5=BF=83=E3=81=A8=E3=81=97=E3=81=9F=E6=97=A5=E6=9C=AC=
=E4=BC=9D=E7=B5=B1=E8=A1=A3=E6=9C=8D=E3=81=AE=E6=A7=8B=E6=88=90=E6=8A=80=E6=
=B3=95-=E6=A0=97=E5=8E=9F-=E5=BC=98/dp/
> 4773984058/ref=3Dsr_11_1/503-4426301-8840760?
> ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1188256160&sr=3D11-1>
>
> I probably can figure out the patterns without reading Japanese, but
> I can't figure out the cost or whether it's available. Anybody read
> enough Japanese to check out the Amazon.co.jp webpage and tell me if
> it's worth it to figure out how to buy the thing?

This page has a link which takes you to amazon.co.jp's home page.  Plug the=
=20
ISBN into the search box to go to the page for the book.  On that page,=20
there's a box that says "would you like to see this page in English?" =20
Clicking that box doesn't translate the title information, but it translate=
s=20
most of the rest of the page, including the part that says that the book is=
=20
not presently available.  There is a box you can click to get an e-mail fro=
m=20
Amazon.jp when/if the item becomes available.  Good luck!


=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information=20
available."-- Gregory Benford

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book!
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:43:36 -0700
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On Aug 28, 2007, at 5:24 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Also I read elsewhere that at one time it was sold by the Kyoto  
> Costume Museum...maybe you could try there?

It's not currently in the Kyoto Costume Museum online shop.

andy

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
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On Tuesday 28 August 2007, Julie wrote:
[snip]
>
> *************************
> Wow!  I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it.  I'd have to
> see a bood that expensive before I bought it.  Thanks for the lead.

I sympathize.  The book itself, however, is loaded with color illustrations, 
both reconstruction drawings and renderings of period artwork.  

I got my copy from the Chicago Museum of Art (or whatever it's proper name is) 
back in the early 1990s for $50 USD; don't know if they still carry it or 
not.  You can also try ILL,

Here's something more immediately useful.  Amazon.com is selling used copies, 
(no cheaper than the ones you located, alas) so they have a page for the 
book.  That page has two customer images of inside pages.  You may find them 
helpful in deciding what to do.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-images/0835118223/sr=11-1/qid=1188348158/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_all/002-2070128-7904032?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1188348158&sr=11-1#gallery

If this URL doesn't render well, plugging the book's ISBN into Amazon's search 
box (ISBN:  0835118223) should pull the page for you.  Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Textile Question
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I have an 1894 textile definition and wanted to know is this it =
classified as a particular weave or just a fabric.

Definition:
Clay Worsted: A variety of flat-twilled worsted woven with a twill =
similar to that of serge, the diagonal lines lying flat on the surface =
and barely perceptible. On account of the warp and weft being slackly =
twisted the cloth does not take a gloss as in the case of the ordinary =
hard-twisted worsteds.=20

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> I have an 1894 textile definition and wanted to know is this it classified as a particular weave or just a fabric.
>   

I'm not sure what this question means.

> Definition:
> Clay Worsted: A variety of flat-twilled worsted woven with a twill similar to that of serge, the diagonal lines lying flat on the surface and barely perceptible. On account of the warp and weft being slackly twisted the cloth does not take a gloss as in the case of the ordinary hard-twisted worsteds. 
>   

Let's pick this apart.

"Flat-twilled" is the weave. Fiber content would most likely be wool. 
"Slackly worsted" describes the preparation and spinning technique used 
to make the threads/yarns.

Therefore, there is a specific weave associated with clay worsted, but 
clay worsted is a type of fabric. A bit more searching found the 
following reference to clay worsted:
1923 "Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets" Woman's Institute of 
Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken
<http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/23-wmtp/wmtp-01.html#table>
"Clay Worsted: Soft twilled fabric similar to serge. Used for dresses 
and suits."

andy

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I am sorry Andrew, I twisted my words around:

My question according to this definition: Is clay worsted a yarn, weave, or 
fabric?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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According to your definition, it's a fabric.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 2:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question

I am sorry Andrew, I twisted my words around:

My question according to this definition: Is clay worsted a yarn, weave, or
fabric?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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> My question according to this definition: Is clay worsted a yarn, weave, 
> or fabric?
>


according to the definition you quoted, it's a fabric. Twill is the weave. 
The fabric seems to take it's characteristics [clay or "dull"] from the fact 
that the yarn used to weave it is not tightly twisted.

Simplified examples would be a soft fuzzy wool blanket and a smooth shiny 
suiting. Both could use the same weaving structure (plain weave or twill), 
and both would be made from wool, but the soft fuzzy blanket would be made 
from loosely spun yarn and the suiting would be made from tightly spun yarn.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
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S-twist or z-twist? ;-)
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> 

> I am sorry Andrew, I twisted my words around: 
> 
> My question according to this definition: Is clay worsted a yarn, weave, or 
> fabric? 
> 
> Penny Ladnier, 
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites 
> www.costumegallery.com 
> www.costumelibrary.com 
> www.costumeclassroom.com 
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sounds like it would be gorgeous just the color it is.
Wear it outdoors for a few weekends and it may well
start to fade. (Blues these days seem to be expecially
unstable.) 

I'm just afraid that efforts to lighten it will end up
giving you something that looks like blue-jean denim.
And that's not an elizabethan look.

MaggiRos

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to
> make a 16th century 
> dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly
> black, and I'd like 
> to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.
> 
> I washed a test piece and some color came out in the
> water, but did not 
> noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was
> excess dye.
> 
> I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution
> and the fabric 
> turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I
> wanted. And even 
> then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.
> 
> I suspect that dye remover will get me the same
> result.
> 

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes
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The blue-->brown with bleach issue has me wondering if your blue is actually
indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things backwards) turns yellow in basic
solutions and blue again in acids.  That might also explain why it's so very
hard to remove.  Try dipping your brown swatch in vinegar to return it to blue?
 If it works, you know you've got indigo (or a synthetic version of the same
chemical) and could do research from there.

Emma

Quoting MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>:

> Sounds like it would be gorgeous just the color it is.
> Wear it outdoors for a few weekends and it may well
> start to fade. (Blues these days seem to be expecially
> unstable.) 
> 
> I'm just afraid that efforts to lighten it will end up
> giving you something that looks like blue-jean denim.
> And that's not an elizabethan look.
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> --- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> 
> > I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to
> > make a 16th century 
> > dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly
> > black, and I'd like 
> > to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.
> > 
> > I washed a test piece and some color came out in the
> > water, but did not 
> > noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was
> > excess dye.
> > 
> > I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution
> > and the fabric 
> > turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I
> > wanted. And even 
> > then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.
> > 
> > I suspect that dye remover will get me the same
> > result.
> > 
> 
> Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
> village was burning when we got here.
> 
> Anon.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: "Paula Praxis" <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
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Andy, What a great link.  I've done a bit of web surfing but have never seen 
- or possibly never noticed & opened - this site.  I'll have a few hours of 
fun here!!
Paula


>From: Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
>Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:38:48 -0700
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>
>Penny Ladnier wrote:
>>I have an 1894 textile definition and wanted to know is this it classified 
>>as a particular weave or just a fabric.
>>
>
>I'm not sure what this question means.
>
>>Definition:
>>Clay Worsted: A variety of flat-twilled worsted woven with a twill similar 
>>to that of serge, the diagonal lines lying flat on the surface and barely 
>>perceptible. On account of the warp and weft being slackly twisted the 
>>cloth does not take a gloss as in the case of the ordinary hard-twisted 
>>worsteds.
>
>Let's pick this apart.
>
>"Flat-twilled" is the weave. Fiber content would most likely be wool. 
>"Slackly worsted" describes the preparation and spinning technique used to 
>make the threads/yarns.
>
>Therefore, there is a specific weave associated with clay worsted, but clay 
>worsted is a type of fabric. A bit more searching found the following 
>reference to clay worsted:
>1923 "Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets" Woman's Institute of Domestic 
>Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken
><http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/23-wmtp/wmtp-01.html#table>
>"Clay Worsted: Soft twilled fabric similar to serge. Used for dresses and 
>suits."
>
>andy
>
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Land of Oz wrote:
> Simplified examples would be a soft fuzzy wool blanket and a smooth 
> shiny suiting. Both could use the same weaving structure (plain weave 
> or twill), and both would be made from wool, but the soft fuzzy 
> blanket would be made from loosely spun yarn and the suiting would be 
> made from tightly spun yarn.

Close, but not quite.

The processing and spinning for a worsted yarn is a bit more complicated 
than just spinning more tightly. A worsted preparation technique 
involves carding and combing the fibers enough to remove the natural 
kink in the wool before spinning. A worsted spinning technique involves 
spinning the yarns very tightly to avoid any air spaces.

The yarns for clay worsted, I'm going to guess, are made with a worsted 
preparation technique, but with a less-tight worsted spinning technique.

andy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
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>
> Close, but not quite.
>
>


That's why I said, "simplified explanation".  I didn't think anyone who 
didn't already know would care about a lengthy explanation of worsted vs. 
woolen.

as for this: >>A worsted preparation technique
involves carding and combing the fibers enough to remove the natural
kink in the wool before spinning. A worsted spinning technique involves
spinning the yarns very tightly to avoid any air spaces<<<

Close, but not quite.  Worsted prep doesn't involving "remove the natural 
kink in the wool", it simply aligns the fibers in a completely parallel 
arrangement. Worsted yarn from a highly crimped wool like Merino will look 
and feel differently than worsted yarn made from a low-crimp wool like 
Lincoln.

Also, it is certainly possible to spin a worsted yarn loosely. Worsted 
doesn't by definition *always* mean "tightly spun". As a rule, it tends to 
be (or look) more tightly spun when all other factors are equal, but it 
doesn't have to be if the application doesn't call for it.

Denise B 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: linens and dyes...
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At 2:40 PM -0600 8/29/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>The blue-->brown with bleach issue has me wondering if your blue is actually
>indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things backwards) turns 
>yellow in basic
>solutions and blue again in acids.  That might also explain why it's so very
>hard to remove.  Try dipping your brown swatch in vinegar to return 
>it to blue?
>  If it works, you know you've got indigo (or a synthetic version of the same
>chemical) and could do research from there.

HUH????
Um could someone clarify this??? I was under the impression that once 
indigo had been reduced, deposited on the cloth and aired it was darn 
near permanent...there are many issues with color changing in 
discharge dyeing (applying bleach of some form to dyed cloth), but 
that is not my area of interest <G> at this time. Perhaps someone 
more skilled could speak up??
Ta
Carol--so many pathways, so little time!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speaking of Chinese Costume...
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 15:16:34 -0700
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On Aug 29, 2007, at 2:14 PM, Sharon Henderson wrote:
> I am attempting to replicate the look of this for a non-opera purpose.
>  In an online article about the Chinese traditional opera (an article
> I cannot now find... alas...) there is a picture of three actors who
> have brought some children up on stage with them and put them in the
> garments, and on one child you can see that the undergarment
> apparently crosses over the front wrap-style, like a kimono, and that
> while the sleeves are huge and long--the body of the garment itself is
> barely waist-length.  If it's that short on a child, I can imagine it
> must be like the little white blouse worn with traditional dirndls:
> very short indeed!  :-)


If...

...you're in the SF Bay Area...

and

...you don't need to finish this quickly...

...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese  
Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the  
end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of  
this type.

andy

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Hi folks,

Can anyone who may ever have made or helped with the making of Chinese
garb of previous eras give me a hint on making the undergarment that
creates the "Water sleeve" look that is used in opera?  It seems to be
a very VERY full, long-sleeved garment, almost always in white, that
the actors and singers use for emphasis (flicking the fabric about
very deftly!) while onstage.  The sleeves brush the floor when the
arms are down by the sides, and sometimes when not.  :-)

I am attempting to replicate the look of this for a non-opera purpose.
 In an online article about the Chinese traditional opera (an article
I cannot now find... alas...) there is a picture of three actors who
have brought some children up on stage with them and put them in the
garments, and on one child you can see that the undergarment
apparently crosses over the front wrap-style, like a kimono, and that
while the sleeves are huge and long--the body of the garment itself is
barely waist-length.  If it's that short on a child, I can imagine it
must be like the little white blouse worn with traditional dirndls:
very short indeed!  :-)

There are a couple of kimono-sleeved "modern" tops in the pattern
books right now; could I get away with making one of those, shortening
it, and making the long, long sleeves with some judicious lengthening
of the pattern?  Or would I mess it up?  I have some gorgeous
silk-linen cloth in white, very fine and soft, that would be perfect
for something like this...

I'm terrified to cut into it until someone more "in the know" than I
might possibly step forward and smack me for my fabric timidity...
:-)

Thanks in advance,
Sharon
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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 17:59:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Indigo Re: questions about linen and dyes
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--- 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
 
> The blue-->brown with bleach issue has me wondering
> if your blue is actually
> indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things
> backwards) turns yellow in basic
> solutions and blue again in acids.  That might also
> explain why it's so very
> hard to remove.  Try dipping your brown swatch in
> vinegar to return it to blue?
>  If it works, you know you've got indigo (or a
> synthetic version of the same
> chemical) and could do research from there.
> 
> Emma

Indigotin is not an indicator.

The indigo dye bath is basic, and is yellow, but
that's from the reduced form of indigo, indoxyl, where
blue is the oxidized form.

I'm not sure what's going on with the brown, except
further chemical reactions--there are several
chemicals with common names of [color] indigo, per an
old CRC Handbook via my faulty memory.  i.e., red
indigo, brown indigo, and blue indigo.

While looking up some indigo chemistry to supplement
said faulty memory, I came across an interesting page
<http://www.indigopage.com/chemistry.htm>, which show
the Tyrian purple molecule as found in the Murex
species--it is 6,6'-Dibromoindigo.
Only two bromines away from indigo!

But nothing to supplement the [color] indigo list in
my immediate search.

Ann in CT


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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of  
the lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ 
ladygreen.jpg . Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern  
used on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to  
see if anyone has already done it.
Many thanks, Aylwen
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Many thanks to those who answered my question.  I really appreciate your 
help.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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At 07:00 30/08/2007, you wrote:
>I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of
>the lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ 
>ladygreen.jpg . Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern
>used on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to
>see if anyone has already done it.
>Many thanks, Aylwen


Made the dress twice, but not the embroidery. Customers wanted open 
necks for summer wear! Sorry.

Suzi

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <344977.69790.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com><355B5BE7-2900-479F-935D-1E400746BB12@netspeed.com.au>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20070830130150.032f8280@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:05:59 +0200
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Hi,
Why is it that when i click the link, i only get a blank page, saying the 
site is under construktion?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green


> At 07:00 30/08/2007, you wrote:
>>I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of
>>the lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ ladygreen.jpg . 
>>Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern
>>used on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to
>>see if anyone has already done it.
>>Many thanks, Aylwen
>
>
> Made the dress twice, but not the embroidery. Customers wanted open necks 
> for summer wear! Sorry.
>
> Suzi
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Why is it that when i click the link, i only get a blank page, saying 
> the site is under construktion?
> 

There were spaces in the URL when she posted it. It should be:

http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg



Dawn

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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:30:47 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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Hmmmmm... the needlework on the inside of the chemise collar is different  
from the needlework on the outside of the collar. I would have thought the two  
would show through to the other sides, unless the white linen was much heavier 
 than I expected. I wonder of there is an innerlining between the layers of 
the  collar... for stiffening.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A Gardiner-Garden" <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green


>I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of  the 
>lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg .
>  Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern  used on the 
> smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to  see if anyone has 
> already done it.
> Many thanks, Aylwen

I know I've seen a dress diary that featured that embroidery I have a 
feeling it may have been one of Bella's Italian showcases 
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm if I find it 
I'll let you know.
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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In the 16th Century, many blackwork designs were created to display a 
different pattern on the reverse side. I expect this is an example of 
this work. To duplicate without learning the specific stitch pattern, 
two layers will be required.

Connie

At 11:30 AM 8/30/2007, you wrote:

>Hmmmmm... the needlework on the inside of the chemise collar is different
>from the needlework on the outside of the collar. I would have 
>thought the two
>would show through to the other sides, unless the white linen was 
>much heavier
>  than I expected. I wonder of there is an innerlining between the layers of
>the  collar... for stiffening.


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X-ASG-Orig-Subj: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:24:50 -0500
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I think it was posted here a few weeks back, but just in case you don't have 
it, there's a nice hi-res version of this at:
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/theartofitaly/object.asp?row=13&exhibs=CITAFLORO&item=14
or if that link doesn't work,
http://snipurl.com/1q4zn

Not my era/area, but whenever I see such wonderful detail I'm tempted to 
make the thing anyway!

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] Highland War
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I will be at Highland war this weekend where it is currently 106F.  I 
was wondering if anyone on the list who knows how to finger braid 
will also be there and willing to give an impromptu class?  I would 
love to learn.  I have downloaded some instructions and will be 
trying to self teach but a little coaching goes a a long way in any 
of life's endeavors.  I am Betsabea Da Venizia and will be with a 
good size of group.  The war is so small  that it is not difficult to 
find people.

Thanks and be safe this weekend.

Betsabea

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Blackwork in Lady in Green
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h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:00:40 +1000
From: A Gardiner-Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of  
the lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ 
ladygreen.jpg . Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern  
used on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to  
see if anyone has already done it.
Many thanks, Aylwen


I've made the chemise and the gown, although I didn't finish the sleeve 
embroidery, only the neck embroidery. You can see some pictures here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/humbugfoto/sets/72157600520663277/

I hope that link works - I had to move all my photos off of Yahoo and 
this is the first time I've linked to the flickr site.

Julie

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Indigo Re: questions about linen and dyes
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:22:49 -0700
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I had a cotton sweater that I wanted a different color. (It was raspberry.)
I soaked it in dye remover and it turned a strange yellow-ish color. Turns
out it had first been treated with something which would make the raspberry
color more vibrant. Or something along those lines. Anyway, I never could
get it to an uncolored state. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Indigo Re: questions about linen and dyes


--- 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
 
> The blue-->brown with bleach issue has me wondering if your blue is 
> actually indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things
> backwards) turns yellow in basic
> solutions and blue again in acids.  That might also explain why it's 
> so very hard to remove.  Try dipping your brown swatch in vinegar to 
> return it to blue?
>  If it works, you know you've got indigo (or a synthetic version of 
> the same
> chemical) and could do research from there.
> 
> Emma

Indigotin is not an indicator.

The indigo dye bath is basic, and is yellow, but that's from the reduced
form of indigo, indoxyl, where blue is the oxidized form.

I'm not sure what's going on with the brown, except further chemical
reactions--there are several chemicals with common names of [color] indigo,
per an old CRC Handbook via my faulty memory.  i.e., red indigo, brown
indigo, and blue indigo.

While looking up some indigo chemistry to supplement said faulty memory, I
came across an interesting page <http://www.indigopage.com/chemistry.htm>,
which show the Tyrian purple molecule as found in the Murex species--it is
6,6'-Dibromoindigo.
Only two bromines away from indigo!

But nothing to supplement the [color] indigo list in my immediate search.

Ann in CT


 
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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Blackwork in Lady in Green
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That's just beautiful!  Thanks for sharing.  I may never decide to do that 
kind of work, but it is a pleasure to see someone else do it!

>From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
>I've made the chemise and the gown, although I didn't finish the sleeve 
>embroidery, only the neck embroidery. You can see some pictures here: 
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/humbugfoto/sets/72157600520663277/
>
>I hope that link works - I had to move all my photos off of Yahoo and this 
>is the first time I've linked to the flickr site.
>
>Julie
>
>_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
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In a message dated 8/30/2007 3:56:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bleucher@earthlink.net writes:

In the  16th Century, many blackwork designs were created to display a 
different  pattern on the reverse side.


That is soooo cool! There simply is no end to the ingenuity of needle  work.



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>...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese
>Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the
>end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of
>this type.
>
>andy

And you're just going to tease instead of actually telling us where?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: A Gardiner-Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Blackwork in Lady in Green
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 08:21:25 +1000
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Thanks so much - I knew I'd seen your beautiful work before but  
couldn't find the link again! This is going to help me so much!
Many many thanks, Aylwen


On 31/08/2007, at 7:16 AM, Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:00:40 +1000
> From: A Gardiner-Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
> Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <355B5BE7-2900-479F-935D-1E400746BB12@netspeed.com.au>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
> I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait  
> of  the lady in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/  
> ladygreen.jpg . Before I spend time working out the blackwork  
> pattern  used on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here  
> first to  see if anyone has already done it.
> Many thanks, Aylwen
>
>
> I've made the chemise and the gown, although I didn't finish the  
> sleeve embroidery, only the neck embroidery. You can see some  
> pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/humbugfoto/sets/ 
> 72157600520663277/
>
> I hope that link works - I had to move all my photos off of Yahoo  
> and this is the first time I've linked to the flickr site.
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Speaking of Chinese Costume...
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:34:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Aug 30, 2007, at 3:21 PM, Cin wrote:
>> ...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese
>> Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the
>> end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of
>> this type.
>>
>> andy
>
> And you're just going to tease instead of actually telling us where?

I don't have permission to repost the announcement. Email me offlist  
about it and I'll forward your request to the host. She's in Japan  
right now, though, so there may be a delay in responses.

andy


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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] Speaking of Chinese Costume...
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>Can anyone who may ever have made or helped with the making of Chinese
garb of previous eras give me a hint on making the undergarment that
creates the "Water sleeve" look that is used in opera? <snip>

>I am attempting to replicate the look of this for a non-opera purpose.
 In an online article about the Chinese traditional opera (an article
I cannot now find... alas...) there is a picture of three actors who
have brought some children up on stage with them and put them in the
garments, and on one child you can see that the undergarment
apparently crosses over the front wrap-style, like a kimono, and that
while the sleeves are huge and long--the body of the garment itself is
barely waist-length.

Sharon,
Here's a page with me & a friend wearing Cantonese Opera costumes in
Singapore.  Notice that the water sleeve on the yellow gown is sewn
directly to the end of the sleeve.  Sounds like the garment you saw on
a child was done differently.  Not much help here, only a note that
there isnt one & only one way.
http://cinbarnes.googlepages.com/CantoneseOperaCostume

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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