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From: "H_Costume" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Shop Sale ~ Halloween / Theater / Personal -
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Status: RO

H_cost Members in SF Bay Area on 10/6 ~ I'm have a huge blowout sale of 
costumes ~ you all and other theater professionals are invited to have first 
crack at some GREAT stuff.  Mark your calendars, Details below.
Costume Shop Sale ~ Halloween / Theater / Personal -
Link to map & directions 
http://www.aclo.com/documents/Directions%20to%20Studio%2035b.pdf


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Cabbage Rose Costumes (Angela F. Lazear) is having a BIG sale to pare down 
costume stock before the end of the year and just in time for Halloween. 
It's the age-old story, too much stuff, too little storage. If you have a 
need for fantastic costumes, now's your chance.

Among the items offered: Specialty pieces, incl.: Ladies wear, dresses, 
ballgowns & suits from 1900s to 1930s, 1940s, 1950s; some TOC menswear; 
Menswear appropriate to 1930s - 1940s, incl. hats.; Ladies period & vintage 
underwear from 1920s ~ Fantasy selections, incl.: Pippin (great for drag) & 
Into the Woods. ~ incl large selection of fantasy hats ~ General stock, 
incl: Capes, robes, good selection of overcoats, menswear, ladies dresses 
from various periods, incl 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, shoes, hats, and 
accessories. Shoes: large selection of men's boots & cowboy boots, limited 
ladies vintage, some dance wear (incl. new) ~ Western: Big selection of 
Western shirts & men's jackets ~ Dance sets: var. matching costumes made in 
sets, inc. 20s dresses, Flamenco, 1900s, "ghost robes", skirts, pettis, etc.

A limited selection of choice vintage items will also be made available. ~ 
the above list is only a partial list of items to be offered from stock 
accumulated over 18 years.


Location & Schedule: Sale will be held at Alameda Civic Light Opera's Studio 
35, 2450 Pan Am Way, Alameda, California. SCHEDULE:Saturday, Oct 6 ~ 12n to 
5pm
PREVIEW SALE ~ COSTUME DESIGN PROFESSIONALS ONLY (please bring a business 
card); Sunday Oct 7 - 10am - 5pm OPEN SALE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC ~ everyone 
is welcome

SALE IS CASH ONLY ~ come prepared.

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com 

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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>>> ...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese
>>> Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the
>>> end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of
>>> this type.
>>>
>>> andy

>> And you're just going to tease instead of actually telling us where?
>>--cin

>I don't have permission to repost the announcement. Email me offlist
>about it and I'll forward your request to the host. She's in Japan
>right now, though, so there may be a delay in responses.

>andy

Found it myself.  Peacock Cantonese Opera Association,  Sunnyvale. The
services page has pictures of costumes.
http://peacock-opera.com/services.html
Again, you can see the water sleeves sewn directly to the cuffs.  The
groups gives lessons in opera skills.  I'm sure someone will be
thrilled to tell an interested wairen all about the costumes.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Speaking of Chinese Costume...
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:59:52 -0700
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Status: RO

On Aug 31, 2007, at 2:34 PM, Cin wrote:
> Found it myself.  Peacock Cantonese Opera Association,  Sunnyvale. The
> services page has pictures of costumes.
> http://peacock-opera.com/services.html
> Again, you can see the water sleeves sewn directly to the cuffs.  The
> groups gives lessons in opera skills.  I'm sure someone will be
> thrilled to tell an interested wairen all about the costumes.

Oh, now that's funny. It's a different group.

The folks presenting the trunk show aren't the Peacock Cantonese  
Opera Association, they're the Chinese Opera Association of Silicon  
Valley <http://www.chineseoperausa.org/>.

andy


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Status: RO

No, but there is a good, clear black and white pic in "Blackwork" by Mary
Gostelow. More detail than online. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of A Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 11:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green

I am working on a reproduction of the garments from the portrait of the lady
in green at http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/
ladygreen.jpg . Before I spend time working out the blackwork pattern used
on the smock/partlet collar, I thought I'd check here first to see if anyone
has already done it.
Many thanks, Aylwen
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Subject: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
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Status: RO

I was browsing the advertising in my most recent issue of Threads, and =
there are some promising fabric sources.

This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices if =
that is the case.

http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>

Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton.co=
m/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp>=20

If you are looking for something to do on a rainy day you could probably =
spend a couple hours, (and many dollars!) checking them out.


Sg
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 09:49:19 -0700
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Status: RO


On Aug 28, 2007, at 10:07 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 09:09 AM 8/28/2007, you wrote:
>>  It could also show that she is all-seeing, all-hearing. This  
>> could be
>> seen as being ever-watchful, ever protective of her realm and its
>> people. ...
>>
>> I'm not quite sure of the significance of the snake--but the fact  
>> that
>> it curls around her arm--rather like the serpent around a physician's
>> caudecus, might not be as sinister a symbol as we might interpret  
>> it to
>> be.
>>
>> Cindy Abel
>
> A snake is also a sign of wisdom.

Note also that this is not intended to show a "real" outfit: while  
elements of it may actually have existed, the Queen is shown here as  
if she was costumed for a masque. The "eyes and ears" mantle is not  
the sort of thing that would be worn on any other occasion, I think. :)

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
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Status: RO

Hi Saragrace,
These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your puter 
because often your links you send dont work.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 1:45 AM
Subject: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.


I was browsing the advertising in my most recent issue of Threads, and there 
are some promising fabric sources.

This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices if that 
is the case.

http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>

Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp>

If you are looking for something to do on a rainy day you could probably 
spend a couple hours, (and many dollars!) checking them out.


Sg
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:30:22 -0400
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Status: RO

Hi, Bjarne. The links work for me. What browser do you use? Not all  
sites open well on all browsers.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 1, 2007, at 3:44 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Saragrace,
> These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your  
> puter because often your links you send dont work.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Saragrace Knauf"  
> <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 1:45 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
>
>
> I was browsing the advertising in my most recent issue of Threads,  
> and there are some promising fabric sources.
>
> This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices  
> if that is the case.
>
> http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>
>
> Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
> http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http:// 
> www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp>
>
> If you are looking for something to do on a rainy day you could  
> probably spend a couple hours, (and many dollars!) checking them out.
>
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:12:55 -0500
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Status: RO

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp

Her computer seems to repeat the url and make it as one. In the future you
can click on them and then remove the repeat, then click and you should get
to the site.

De

-----Original Message-----
These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your puter
because often your links you send dont work.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----


http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>

Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton.com/t
hreads/pages/th_adindex.asp>

If you are looking for something to do on a rainy day you could probably
spend a couple hours, (and many dollars!) checking them out.


Sg


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep  1 18:42:30 2007
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:41:41 -0500
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Status: RO

>From this site
http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html

Elizabeth's gown is embroidered with English wildflowers, thus allowing the
queen to pose in the guise of Astraea, the virginal heroine of classical
literature.  Her cloak is decorated with eyes and ears, implying that she
sees and hears all.  Her headdress is an incredible design decorated
lavishly with pearls and rubies and supports her royal crown.  The pearls
symbolize her virginity; the crown, of course, symbolizes her royalty.
Pearls also adorn the transparent veil which hangs over her shoulders.
Above her crown is a crescent-shaped jewel which alludes to Cynthia, the
goddess of the moon. (De: Most say Diana)

A jeweled serpent is entwined along her left arm, and holds from its mouth a
heart-shaped ruby.  Above its head is a celestial sphere.  The serpent
symbolizes wisdom; it has captured the ruby, which in turn symbolizes the
queen's heart.  In other words, the queen's passions are controlled by her
wisdom.  The celestial sphere echoes this theme; it symbolizes wisdom and
the queen's royal command over nature.

Elizabeth's right hand holds a rainbow with the Latin inscription 'Non sine
sole iris' ('No rainbow without the sun').  The rainbow symbolizes peace,
and the inscription reminds viewers that only the queen's wisdom can ensure
peace and prosperity.

Elizabeth was in her late sixties when this portrait was made, but for
iconographic purposes she is portrayed as young and beautiful, more than
mortal.  In this portrait, she is ageless.

De
-----Original Message-----

Note also that this is not intended to show a "real" outfit: while
elements of it may actually have existed, the Queen is shown here as
if she was costumed for a masque. The "eyes and ears" mantle is not
the sort of thing that would be worn on any other occasion, I think. :)

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:41:48 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
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Status: RO

Hi all. I wonder how much, if any, of the various motifs came from emblem
books. Any thoughts, all you Elizabethanophiles?

Arlys

On Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:41:41 -0500 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> >From this site
> http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html
> 
> Elizabeth's gown is embroidered with English wildflowers, thus 
> allowing the
> queen to pose in the guise of Astraea, the virginal heroine of 
> classical
> literature.  Her cloak is decorated with eyes and ears, implying 
> that she
> sees and hears all.  Her headdress is an incredible design decorated
> lavishly with pearls and rubies and supports her royal crown.  The 
> pearls
> symbolize her virginity; the crown, of course, symbolizes her 
> royalty.
> Pearls also adorn the transparent veil which hangs over her 
> shoulders.
> Above her crown is a crescent-shaped jewel which alludes to Cynthia, 
> the
> goddess of the moon. (De: Most say Diana)
> 
> A jeweled serpent is entwined along her left arm, and holds from its 
> mouth a
> heart-shaped ruby.  Above its head is a celestial sphere.  The 
> serpent
> symbolizes wisdom; it has captured the ruby, which in turn 
> symbolizes the
> queen's heart.  In other words, the queen's passions are controlled 
> by her
> wisdom.  The celestial sphere echoes this theme; it symbolizes 
> wisdom and
> the queen's royal command over nature.
> 
> Elizabeth's right hand holds a rainbow with the Latin inscription 
> 'Non sine
> sole iris' ('No rainbow without the sun').  The rainbow symbolizes 
> peace,
> and the inscription reminds viewers that only the queen's wisdom can 
> ensure
> peace and prosperity.
> 
> Elizabeth was in her late sixties when this portrait was made, but 
> for
> iconographic purposes she is portrayed as young and beautiful, more 
> than
> mortal.  In this portrait, she is ageless.
> 
> De
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> Note also that this is not intended to show a "real" outfit: while
> elements of it may actually have existed, the Queen is shown here as
> if she was costumed for a masque. The "eyes and ears" mantle is not
> the sort of thing that would be worn on any other occasion, I think. 
> :)
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi Saragrace,
> These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your puter 
> because often your links you send dont work.
> 
> Bjarne
> 

> 
> This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices if 
> that is the case.
> 
> http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>
> 
> Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
> http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp> 
> 
> 

You need to learn how to read the HTML links.

If you look at the two lines of text you will see 'http://' followed by 
a string of characters that ends with 'htm' or 'asp'. This is the link.

Sara's email program pasted the link in _twice_, trying to be helpful, 
and it messed up the way that computers read the text and recognize 
links, so that when you clicked you got an error. If you read carefully, 
you can see the error where it is repeated.

If you take the part that starts 'http' and ends 'htm' or 'asp' and copy 
it into your browser address window, it will work.

A lot of times email mangles links, but if you know what to look for you 
can pull out the correct address and find the web page.



Dawn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
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Status: RO

Sorry about that folks....I've selected plain text formatting (again)- lets 
see if it sticks this time. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
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Status: RO

I was reading on another list where folks were losing image data on CDs that 
were only 3-4 years old. Anyone else have this problem?


I know permanent archival isn't a solved problem, but I thought this was 
important to many of us.  I'd like to hear what you guys do.

Sg 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
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Status: RO

>I was reading on another list where folks were losing image data on CDs 
>that were only 3-4 years old. Anyone else have this problem?
>
>
> I know permanent archival isn't a solved problem, but I thought this was 
> important to many of us.  I'd like to hear what you guys do.


that brings to mind a question I've been meaning to ask this (or another) 
group for some time.  What do you think of the on-line storage services? 
Foto-bucket, Snapfish and others.  I always worry about losing all my family 
and research photos from a hard drive crash. There are lots of ways to loose 
and/or damage CDs in storage.  I thought of an on-line storage facility as a 
back up?  Anyone have bad experiences with those?

Denise
Iowa 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
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Status: RO

Thanks Dawn, i didnt realise that.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Hi Saragrace,
>> These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your puter 
>> because often your links you send dont work.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>
>>
>> This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices if 
>> that is the case.
>>
>> http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>
>>
>> Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
>> http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp>
>
> You need to learn how to read the HTML links.
>
> If you look at the two lines of text you will see 'http://' followed by a 
> string of characters that ends with 'htm' or 'asp'. This is the link.
>
> Sara's email program pasted the link in _twice_, trying to be helpful, and 
> it messed up the way that computers read the text and recognize links, so 
> that when you clicked you got an error. If you read carefully, you can see 
> the error where it is repeated.
>
> If you take the part that starts 'http' and ends 'htm' or 'asp' and copy 
> it into your browser address window, it will work.
>
> A lot of times email mangles links, but if you know what to look for you 
> can pull out the correct address and find the web page.
>
>
>
> Dawn
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
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Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I was reading on another list where folks were losing image data on CDs that 
> were only 3-4 years old. Anyone else have this problem?
> 

My husband stores a lot of data on CDs and DVDs, and has had data loss 
issues. His current solution is to buy brand name quality disks. After 
trial and error with several brands, he's settled on Memorex. It seems 
to be holding up the best over time.

My method is to have redundant backups. My web server is backed up onto 
CDs and onto another hard drive within our network. If I lose something, 
I have two chances of replacing it. I make new CD backups every year or 
  two. I should do that more often, but...



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
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Status: RO

I suppose if you do both, meaning the online and DVD it would be like 
"Double Indemnity."
Can't hurt!

Sg in AZ

P.S.  Where are you in Iowa?  I was born and raised (partly) in Iowa 
City....if it didn't get so dang cold, I'd move back in a heart beat!



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?


 I always worry about losing all my family
> and research photos from a hard drive crash. There are lots of ways to 
> loose
> and/or damage CDs in storage.  I thought of an on-line storage facility as 
> a
> back up?  Anyone have bad experiences with those?
>
> Denise
> Iowa 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:41:48 -0700
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Status: RO

The links appear to be 'doubled'.  Just highlight a portion of the link,
from http: through .htm.  Copy that portion of the link and paste it to your
browser.  

Laurie T.
Phoenix 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 1:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few fabric sources to check out.

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi Saragrace,
> These links dont work for me, i think something is wrong with your 
> puter because often your links you send dont work.
> 
> Bjarne
> 

> 
> This linen source says it has Belgium linen.  These are good prices if 
> that is the case.
> 
> http://threadpro.com/linen.htm<http://threadpro.com/linen.htm>
> 
> Threads has all its advertiser websites, listed here.
> http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp<http://www.taunton
> .com/threads/pages/th_adindex.asp>
> 
> 

You need to learn how to read the HTML links.

If you look at the two lines of text you will see 'http://' followed by a
string of characters that ends with 'htm' or 'asp'. This is the link.

Sara's email program pasted the link in _twice_, trying to be helpful, and
it messed up the way that computers read the text and recognize links, so
that when you clicked you got an error. If you read carefully, you can see
the error where it is repeated.

If you take the part that starts 'http' and ends 'htm' or 'asp' and copy it
into your browser address window, it will work.

A lot of times email mangles links, but if you know what to look for you can
pull out the correct address and find the web page.



Dawn
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Status: RO

Hi, All- Third time's charmed it's been said and this is the third time I've sent this message. Thanks to all, especially Andrea, Dawn, De, Fran and Sharon and any whom I've missed for your help and good advice.
I got IT! Last nite (that would have been 8-26-7). I'd looked up Calgary Stampede but couldn't get through the links on this crazy, slow dial-up (which actually turned out to be the fault of a bad part up the telepole across the hwy.) Looked Bandera Stompede, which apparently no longer exists, and then got a brilliant! Looked up 'western cocktail dresses' - got Asian and Indo references and also som American western cocktail duds.
There IT was. Black, sheer short skirt, one shoulder, one short sleeve, tight bodiced dress. I'll give her a slave bracelet and maybe add some gold fringe to 'trash' it a bit. 
You are wonderful. I needed to move on to renderings and just couldn't budge until this was right. Floozy and her POSILQ are outrageous and blatant and must look it. And Dawn, this is a beer and bible area. I think I could only offend others if I hung a big gold cross around her neck.
Thank you, thank you.

Audy




in the high boonies of Central Texas

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: FW: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:53:50 -0400
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Status: RO



-----Original Message-----
From: Gary F. Moeller [mailto:Gary@levelup.hrcoxmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 2:01 PM
To: 'Anne Moeller'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?

The bit about quality CDs is 100% accurate.  Stay with the quality brands
and they will last longer.
An external hard drive (HDD) is an excellent secondary backup idea.  Studies
have shown that if HDDs are stored properly and treated with respect, they
will actually last longer than CDs.  Redundancy is the key here.  For
instance, my pictures are stored redundantly on at least three computers,
work, home & laptop, as well as on CDs.  Flash drives are another option for
those with a limited budget.  4 GB flash drives are now under $60.  External
hard drives are under $100.  Lots of choices out there.  Pick one or two and
run with it.

Gary F. Moeller
President
Compu-Zoo of Virginia Beach, Inc.
dba Compu Zoo Computers


-----Original Message-----
From: Anne Moeller [mailto:ladyanne@quik.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 2:14 PM
To: garreth@cox.net
Subject: FW: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?


Any comments or suggestions I can pass on?

Anne
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 3:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I was reading on another list where folks were losing image data on CDs
that 
> were only 3-4 years old. Anyone else have this problem?
> 

My husband stores a lot of data on CDs and DVDs, and has had data loss 
issues. His current solution is to buy brand name quality disks. After 
trial and error with several brands, he's settled on Memorex. It seems 
to be holding up the best over time.

My method is to have redundant backups. My web server is backed up onto 
CDs and onto another hard drive within our network. If I lose something, 
I have two chances of replacing it. I make new CD backups every year or 
  two. I should do that more often, but...



Dawn

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Status: RO

Can someone please forward me H-cost digests 406 & 407?  They 
disappeared into the ether somewhere.

TIA,
Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
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Status: RO

Flash drives die, too, so be warned! I had one with a project for game
design class on it. When I plugged it in, the data on the drive was
corrupt. None of the computers that I tried it on would even see the
flash drive; needless to say, I lost my project.

Redundancy is your friend!

kate

----- Original Message -----
> Flash drives are another option for those with a limited budget. 4 GB
flash drives 
> are now under $60.  
 
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Status: RO

I really do not trust CDs.  It is so easy to scratch them.  Funny, we were 
just talking about the old zip drives and external tape backups last week.

I agree about redundancy!  I keep important files backed up on two 
computers, an external hard drive, and a secure area under password 
protection. I was backing up on three computers, but retired one last 
January. My websites' host offers so much space for the plan that it is 
ridiculous not to use it.  They also back up my websites daily in two 
locations, Philadelphia and NYC.  Backing up in two different locations was 
really important to me.  The business that once hosted my sites in 
Pensacola, Florida took a direct hit from Hurricane Ivan while I was in 
England.  It took two weeks to find out that the building was destroyed.  I 
finally had someone from their local newspaper go check the location.  It 
took two months to gather the info from our computers and pull the sites 
back up.  Once in a blue moon, I run across a webpage of mine with a missing 
image from that mess. I really don't trust backing up three times because I 
had all three backups fail within a few days.  What a nightmare!

If you pick an online service for backup, please make sure that the company 
is backing up daily and preferably in two different states or countries.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: FW: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:54:22 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Gary F. Moeller [mailto:Gary@levelup.hrcoxmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 2:05 PM
To: 'Anne Moeller'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?

On-line storage is an excellent way to guarantee that you won't lose data.
However, it can be expensive.  They are really designed for business use.

Off-line storage in the form of an external HDD is probably best.  The key
is redundancy.  For archival purposes, an external HDD kept off-site,
preferably in a safe would be the safest.  One should also have the data on
other hard drives too.  Whichever HDD you put the data on, don't forget the
maintenance on the HDD before storing the data; i.e., defragging the drive!
This will ensure the best possible write process when storing the data.

Gary F. Moeller
President
Compu-Zoo of Virginia Beach, Inc.
dba Compu Zoo Computers


-----Original Message-----
From: Anne Moeller [mailto:ladyanne@quik.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 2:14 PM
To: garreth@cox.net
Subject: FW: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?


 More on the same subject.
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 9:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?

I suppose if you do both, meaning the online and DVD it would be like 
"Double Indemnity."
Can't hurt!

Sg in AZ

P.S.  Where are you in Iowa?  I was born and raised (partly) in Iowa 
City....if it didn't get so dang cold, I'd move back in a heart beat!



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archival problems on DVD/CD?


 I always worry about losing all my family
> and research photos from a hard drive crash. There are lots of ways to 
> loose
> and/or damage CDs in storage.  I thought of an on-line storage facility as

> a
> back up?  Anyone have bad experiences with those?
>
> Denise
> Iowa 

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For those of you in the area, where would you go for a good selection at 
a decent price?



Dawn

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Hi, All & Sandy-
I was going to forward those to you,Sandy, only to see that I don't have them either. Guess thats why I had to post my "EUREKA" message three times. I'd like to have those also, please. Thank you, Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 18:35:09 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fake fur in Sacramento, CA? 
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At 03:13 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote:
>For those of you in the area, where would you go for a good 
>selection at a decent price?
>
>Dawn

I have not found any local Sacramento source for anything other than 
very inexpensive fake fur.  If I were looking for decent fake fur, 
I'd try on-line sources.  You can always request samples before 
placing an order.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fake fur in Sacramento, CA? 
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:17:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Sep 4, 2007, at 6:35 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> At 03:13 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote:
>> For those of you in the area, where would you go for a good  
>> selection at a decent price?
>>
>> Dawn
>
> I have not found any local Sacramento source for anything other  
> than very inexpensive fake fur.  If I were looking for decent fake  
> fur, I'd try on-line sources.  You can always request samples  
> before placing an order.

I've found Hancock's to often have good (if somewhat expensive) fake  
fur. I don't know, though, if there are any Hancock's left in  
Sacramento after the big reorganization.

Otherwise I'd suggest doing a run to San Francisco. Discount Fabrics  
(4 shops around town, the one in the Haight is pretty good, and the  
one in the SOMA is huge) has always had a good selection of fake fur.  
Mendel's Art (also in the Haight, about 3 doors down from Discount)  
has great fake fur.

Online, check out Monterey Mills <http://www.montereymills.com/>.  
Their website is frightening, but their product is excellent.

andy
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork in Lady in Green
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:33:58 -0700
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Status: RO


On Aug 30, 2007, at 9:34 AM, Frau Anna Bleucher wrote:

> In the 16th Century, many blackwork designs were created to display  
> a different pattern on the reverse side. I expect this is an  
> example of this work. To duplicate without learning the specific  
> stitch pattern, two layers will be required.

In this case, considering that one side of the embroidery is  
"arabesques" -- a curling leaf and vine pattern -- and the other side  
is a simple diamond grid, I think two layers of cloth is a more  
likely explanation.

These patterns have such completely different structure that I can't  
think of any way that working one on one side of the cloth could  
produce the other pattern on the other side. Most, if not all, of the  
blackwork patterns I've seen that do have different sides are pure  
counted-thread double running stitch. They are not this kind of  
flowing, curvy line thing, which was more likely worked in stem  
stitch or other "line" stitches.
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Subject: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
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Status: RO

What feathers are best for sewing onto fabric in order to get a nice sleek =
look?
The project is going to consist of a sheath type dress, covered in =
feathers.=20
I don't have any experience working with them, so advice is greatly =
appreciated.
(best way to layer, attach...etc)

- Tori


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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 19:36:38 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
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Status: RO

At 19:16 05/09/2007, you wrote:
>What feathers are best for sewing onto fabric in order to get a nice 
>sleek look?
>The project is going to consist of a sheath type dress, covered in feathers.
>I don't have any experience working with them, so advice is greatly 
>appreciated.
>(best way to layer, attach...etc)


Not for a sleek look, but when I made the two peacock feather cloaks, 
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/p10043022.html   which comprised 
peacock feathers on silk organza, I sewed through the "stalk" (don't 
remember the proper name) and then again through the feathers near 
the top. You have to ruffle the feathers - sorry! - in order to hide 
the thread, but this is not difficult. You will need a lot of 
feathers to cover completely, as you will need to overlap them, I think.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 15:05:02 -0400
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Status: RO

Wow, stunning! Thanks for posting!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume


> At 19:16 05/09/2007, you wrote:
>>What feathers are best for sewing onto fabric in order to get a nice sleek 
>>look?
>>The project is going to consist of a sheath type dress, covered in 
>>feathers.
>>I don't have any experience working with them, so advice is greatly 
>>appreciated.
>>(best way to layer, attach...etc)
>
>
> Not for a sleek look, but when I made the two peacock feather cloaks, 
> http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/p10043022.html   which comprised peacock 
> feathers on silk organza, I sewed through the "stalk" (don't remember the 
> proper name) and then again through the feathers near the top. You have to 
> ruffle the feathers - sorry! - in order to hide the thread, but this is 
> not difficult. You will need a lot of feathers to cover completely, as you 
> will need to overlap them, I think.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

Wow, what a cloak! Especially since peacock feathers don't come cheap!
This cloak is priceless! You must have put in weeks of work! It could be
worn for fantasy, at one of Queen Anne of Denmark(wife of James I of
England's)masques, or be on the haute couture catwalk today.

Cindy Abel

=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
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Status: RO

On Sep 5, 2007, at 11:16 AM, Tori Ruhl wrote:
> What feathers are best for sewing onto fabric in order to get a  
> nice sleek look?
> The project is going to consist of a sheath type dress, covered in  
> feathers.
> I don't have any experience working with them, so advice is greatly  
> appreciated.
> (best way to layer, attach...etc)


I'd go with 4-6" ostrich drabs (body feathers) <http:// 
www.ostrichesonline.com/feather/of-db-5-nat.html>. They're flexible  
and sturdy, so they would hold up pretty well on a dress. They're  
available in many colors, and if you're going for dark colors you  
could just buy the naturals cheap and dye them yourself with acid dye.

As to how to attach? In horizontal tiers from the bottom to the top.  
Stitch the shafts down to your fabric with a strong thread (carpet  
thread or artificial sinew) using a glover's needle that you can  
punch through the shaft. To avoid having obvious straight lines of  
feather tips (even if they're not exactly the same length), you may  
want to do a zig-zag or sawtooth-wave tier pattern instead of a  
straight horizontal line. Another good (and perhaps more economical)  
layout would be to do it in a scale pattern.

andy
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From: Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952
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Status: RO

In cleaning out the vault at work I came across two
issues of Life Magazines from 1939 and 1952. The cover
article for the 1952 is the "The $3 Billion Wedding
Business". There are some neat pictures of crinolines
thought the one of a guy messing with a silk dress
while smoking is scary. The ads in both issues are
facinating.

Would anyone be interested in these? My boss is
entirely unsentimental and I don't have room at home
to take on another era. 

Cheers,
Mary
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 14:36:29 -0700
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Status: RO

Mary, if no one else has responded, I'd be very interested.  I teach costume
history and am always looking for materials that can serve as primary
sources for a period.  Besides that, I just love the old magazines.

Laurie Taylor
Applied Arts & Human Sciences
Phoenix College
1202 West Thomas Road
Phoenix, AZ  85013
(602) 285-7294 (leave message)
(480) 560-7016
 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Mary
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 1:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952

In cleaning out the vault at work I came across two issues of Life Magazines
from 1939 and 1952. The cover article for the 1952 is the "The $3 Billion
Wedding Business". There are some neat pictures of crinolines thought the
one of a guy messing with a silk dress while smoking is scary. The ads in
both issues are facinating.

Would anyone be interested in these? My boss is entirely unsentimental and I
don't have room at home to take on another era. 

Cheers,
Mary
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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10:36 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 16:11:02 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I would, if you havent already gotten a bunch of replies.

Sylvia

On Sep 5, 2007, at 2:42 PM, Mary wrote:

> In cleaning out the vault at work I came across two
> issues of Life Magazines from 1939 and 1952. The cover
> article for the 1952 is the "The $3 Billion Wedding
> Business". There are some neat pictures of crinolines
> thought the one of a guy messing with a silk dress
> while smoking is scary. The ads in both issues are
> facinating.
>
> Would anyone be interested in these? My boss is
> entirely unsentimental and I don't have room at home
> to take on another era.
>
> Cheers,
> Mary
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon
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Status: RO


Information on my upcoming lecture day, Oct. 20, in Eugene, Oregon, is now
online here:

http://www.costumetalk.com/CTinfo/

with details on my lectures here:

http://costumetalk.com/CTinfo/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=15&Itemid=36

On Oct. 21, Tammie Dupuis ("The Renaissance Tailor") will be speaking.
Information on her lecture is on the same website.

Forward at will.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Newsletter 09-05-07 Web Site Fabric Liquidation
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Status: RO


>From: "Denver Fabrics " <df-mailroom@denverfabrics.com>
>Subject: Newsletter 09-05-07 Web Site Fabric Liquidation
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
>[]
>    <http://www.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>    <http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/denverstore/sewingcontact.htm>
>[]
>    <http://blog.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>go to our blog
>
>our best sellers
>
>we can help you
>
>[]
>
>
>
>We Are Liquidating Our Entire Fabric Inventory!
>
>
>Denverfabrics.com will soon be changing hands. All fabric on our web 
>site must be sold to make way for the new owners. With this 
>liquidation sale discount, all fabric on our site is now available 
>at incredibly low prices! This sale offer is for our web site fabric only
>and is not available in our Littleton store.
>
>The Denver Fabrics Littleton store is not changing owners and will 
>continue to offer Colorado customers the same
>outstanding selection of fine fabrics.
>
>
>
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/>SHOP NOW
>
>   use coupon code: ALLFAB%30
>   ALL SALES ARE FINAL
>
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
> 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BF0001&source=Search>Fishnet
>Mesh 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=21461&Category_Code=StrFish&Product_Count=0>
>[]
> 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14884&source=Search>Faux 
>Fur
>Seal 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=34041&Category_Code=FR-solid&Product_Count=9>
>[]
>
>   Weight: 2.9 oz
>44 Inches Wide       Weight 15.7
>62 Inches Wide
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/swatch-program.htm>
>[]
>
> 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CT-Pat>Fleece
> 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=35441&Category_Code=FLE&Product_Count=31>
>[]
>
>   Perfect for Fall & Winter
>64 Inches Wide
>100% Polyester
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>   We can help. Please let us know of any questions or concerns that 
> you have.
>
>Denver Fabrics takes your security very seriously. We use only the 
>most trusted services to ensure that your information is never 
>vulnerable to hackers or other malicious attacks. In addition, we 
>promise to never share or sell your information to anyone, for any 
>reason. Go to our security questions page for more info - 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/security_orderform/fabric-security-1.htm>here
>
>
>   email:
> 
><mailto:customerservice@denverfabrics.com>customerservice@denverfabrics.com 
>
>   phone:
>   1-866-996-4573
>   web:
>   <http://www.denverfabrics.com/contact-us.php>contact form
>   coupon codes:
> 
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/denverstore/HowToCoupons.htm>how 
>to use coupon codes
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>

I just received this notice from denverfabrics.com .  I thought that 
the members of these two lists (sorry for any duplications) would be 
interested in helping the company liquidate its inventory. ;-)


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
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In a message dated 9/5/2007 4:35:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
attrembl@bovil.com writes:

I'd go  with 4-6" ostrich drabs (body feathers) <http://  
www.ostrichesonline.com/feather/of-db-5-nat.html>.


I don't think of ostrich as being "sleek". I'd go with iridescent or  dyed 
rooster. They're also at Ostrich.com:
 
_http://www.ostrich.com/shop/cat?cmd=fpcoque_ 
(http://www.ostrich.com/shop/cat?cmd=fpcoque) 



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Hi, All - I looked, I saw, I giggled. It didn't frighten me but my computer crashed! Hey, does anyone think they might really be breeding faux fur and what does the fur bearer look like? Te he. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Thanks Joan, that is very timely indeed!

Laurie

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Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> As to how to attach? In horizontal tiers from the bottom to the top.  
> Stitch the shafts down to your fabric with a strong thread (carpet  
> thread or artificial sinew) using a glover's needle that you can  punch 
> through the shaft.

	You can also use a hot needle and it pierces the shaft like butter. 
Hold the needle (regular sewing needle, just one you won't use in fabric 
ever again) in pliers or better yet in hemostats, hold the tip of the 
needle in a candle flame (the needle shaft will lose it's nice silver 
color), while still very hot pierce the shaft of the feather. I tried it 
at a feather workshop at Balticon. Very neat and doesn't split the shaft.

              -Judy
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Subject: [h-cost] Robin Netherton/Laurellen de Brandevin Lecture Weekend
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Greetings, and please feel free to forward to other lists with abandon!
 
 Come and join us in Eugene, Oregon for a great weekend of learning. 
 
 On Saturday, October 20, we’re delighted to be hosting Robin Netherton, a researcher specializing
 in Western European dress of the Middle Ages. Since 1982, she has given lectures and workshops on
 medieval clothing for academic audiences, historical societies, reenactment groups, and other
 organizations. She will be presenting the following lectures:
 
 The Gothic Fitted Dress
 The Greenland Gored Gown
 The 15th-Century V-Neck Gown
 When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume Sources
 Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for Costume Research
 
 Sunday, October 21, we'll be graced with the creative genius of Tammy Dupuis (SCA: Laurellen de
 Brandevin), from The Renaissance Tailor. She holds a Bachelor's degree from Montana State
 University in Anthropology/ Archeaology and has published articles in several costume newsletters
 both nationally and internationally over the last decade. She will be presenting the following
 lecture:
 
 European Pattern Development and Dissemination from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance; Extant
 Evidence from the Costumers Guilds
 
 Detailed descriptions of the lectures and registration information and forms can be found at our
 website:
 
 www.costumetalk. com.
 
 Seating is LIMITED for this great weekend, and preregistration is required--please register early
 and secure your spot!
 
 This is NOT an SCA event, and is not sponsored by any SCA branch. 
 
 Questions? Check out the website!
 
Jonna Hayden (SCA -Dame Fearga Kavanagh)
Jamie Parker (SCA - Dame Karis Pursey
     
       
---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 08:26:34 -0400
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Who was looking for wedding prices from the 50's?

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Mary
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Life magazine from 1939 and 1952

In cleaning out the vault at work I came across two
issues of Life Magazines from 1939 and 1952. The cover
article for the 1952 is the "The $3 Billion Wedding
Business". There are some neat pictures of crinolines
thought the one of a guy messing with a silk dress
while smoking is scary. The ads in both issues are
facinating.

Would anyone be interested in these? My boss is
entirely unsentimental and I don't have room at home
to take on another era.=20

Cheers,
Mary
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Status: RO

Just wanted to thank everyone again for their help with the 1957
resources.  The 50th anniversary party was everything the In-Laws had
wanted.  My SiL prepped the "priceless" poster and it was over the
guestbook where it got quite a lot of chuckles.  The ring pillow I made
from the 1957 dress was also a hit.  There is now interest from the
sisters-in-law of perhaps preserving the remaining scraps as sachets. 
Glad I didn't take the dress apart and use it for a costume years ago as
my MiL had originally suggested I do :).  

Thanks again!
Catherine
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

Dear h-costumers,
Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask
if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.
It's nice to see the work and the faces behind the email addresses.
Way back when h-costume first started (mid-90s) we had to plan lunch
in a local restaurant & bring photo albums.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Quoting Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>:

> Dear h-costumers,
> Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask
> if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.

I do, I do!  It's not at all comprehensive, and is now a year out of date, but
my online portfolio has some of my work in it.

http://anvil.unl.edu/emma

Emma


http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 15:12:20 -0500
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Status: RO

I have attempted to start one on several services but all have failed.

The latest attempt has been on LiveJournal.com.

But in the end I always end up just posting them on my personal site.
http://www.glove.org/gallery/default.php

I share this gallery with other glove makers so you can view all our work.
:)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 2:38 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Costume brag books online

Dear h-costumers,
Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask
if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.
It's nice to see the work and the faces behind the email addresses.
Way back when h-costume first started (mid-90s) we had to plan lunch
in a local restaurant & bring photo albums.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] neck tie cravat.
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Status: RO

I have a very nice wide cotton lace wich i would like to make into a neck 
tie cravat.
But what do i do with the lace raw edges?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Status: RO

> Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask
> if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.
> It's nice to see the work and the faces behind the email addresses.
> Way back when h-costume first started (mid-90s) we had to plan lunch
> in a local restaurant & bring photo albums.

Yep:) Since 1999 but it's shifted about and had a few makeovers;)

http://costumes.glittersweet.com

Now off to go look at the links before me.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Cin wrote:
> Dear h-costumers,
> Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask
> if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.

www.reddawn.net/costume/gallery.htm


And where was yours again? :)



Dawn

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From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Speaking of feathers in costumes...
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Status: RO

Well, it was haute couture only as far back as 2002, but honestly, it's 
more of a costume than a "real" dress.... but the Smithsonian has a 
golden "Minerva" dress by Oscar de la Renta in the Treasures of American 
History exhibit (over in Air & Space while American History is 
closed)...   If you want to see an *amazing* job of using feathers on a 
dress:  
http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&exkey=143&pagekey=221

Even those I point it out to who aren't into high fashion, costuming or 
sewing have generally given it a "wow" for the amount of work and skill 
that went into it. 


-Liz

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Subject: [h-cost] portrait I came across, 
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Status: RO

I was looking for something else and found this 1756 portrait (Stepanida
Yakovleva, Russia.
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/v/p-vishnya1.htm

De


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Status: RO

Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant and lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots and lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares about peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailable:

Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish   Workingwomen's Dress – Temp out of stock
   Drea Leed. Author describes her research into various aspects of the   garments, then details construction, including very simple patterns. Tr pb,   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers & inside covers, 4 color interior   plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing working women's garments.   Notes, pictography & bibliography, plus appendices on making a bodice   pattern, fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press

So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:-)

       
---------------------------------
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
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Status: RO

At 09:14 07/09/2007, you wrote:
>Does anyone of you know any good sources (books=20
>or websites) on peasant and lower-class clothing=20
>in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots=20
>and lots about court and aristocratic dresses,=20
>but no one obviously cares about peasants. The=20
>only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailable:
>
>Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century=20
>Flemish   Workingwomen's Dress =AD Temp out of stock
>    Drea Leed. Author describes her research=20
> into various aspects of the   garments, then=20
> details construction, including very simple=20
> patterns. Tr pb,   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color=20
> covers & inside covers, 4 color=20
> interior   plates, numerous b/w photos of=20
> period art showing working women's=20
> garments.   Notes, pictography & bibliography,=20
> plus appendices on making a bodice   pattern,=20
> fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press
>
>So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:-)


Have you tried "The Tudor Tailor" ?  http://www.tudortailor.com/

Suzi

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Status: RO

These are both on Drea's website, there's more there but I don't have time 
to do it right now.  I may have other sites, etc bookmarked and will look 
later if no one else sugggests them first.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/secondhandclothes.html

Laurie

>From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
>Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 01:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant and 
>lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots and 
>lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares about 
>peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailable:
>
>Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish   Workingwomen's Dress – Temp 
>out of stock
>    Drea Leed. Author describes her research into various aspects of the   
>garments, then details construction, including very simple patterns. Tr pb, 
>   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers & inside covers, 4 color interior   
>plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing working women's garments. 
>   Notes, pictography & bibliography, plus appendices on making a bodice   
>pattern, fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press
>
>So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:-)
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! 
>TV.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_________________________________________________________________
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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 05:34:47 -0700
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Status: RO

I guess these archives were the only other thing i had bookmarked, altho the 
gallery of working women's clothing on Drea's site is often the inspiration 
for these costumes.

http://festiveattyre.com/feature/index.htm

Laurie
>
>These are both on Drea's website, there's more there but I don't have time 
>to do it right now.  I may have other sites, etc bookmarked and will look 
>later if no one else sugggests them first.
>
>http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
>
>http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/secondhandclothes.html
>
>Laurie
>

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Status: RO

'The Tudor Tailor' by Ninya Mikhaila has lots of styles that are either =
working class or easily adaptable to working class. I believe it is read=
ily available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Tudor-Tailor-reconstructing-sixteenth-century/dp/0=
896762556/ref=3Dpd_bbs_sr_1/104-0545319-9158352?ie=3DUTF8&s=3Dbooks&qid=3D=
1189168104&sr=3D1-1
 =

Karen
Seamstrix
 =

 =


-- "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com> wrote:
These are both on Drea's website, there's more there but I don't have ti=
me =

to do it right now.  I may have other sites, etc bookmarked and will loo=
k =

later if no one else sugggests them first.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/secondhandclothes.html

Laurie

>From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
>Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 01:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant=
 and =

>lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots an=
d =

>lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares a=
bout =

>peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailabl=
e:
>
>Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish   Workingwomen's Dress =96 T=
emp =

>out of stock
>    Drea Leed. Author describes her research into various aspects of th=
e   =

>garments, then details construction, including very simple patterns. Tr=
 pb, =

>   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers & inside covers, 4 color interior=
   =

>plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing working women's garme=
nts. =

>   Notes, pictography & bibliography, plus appendices on making a bodic=
e   =

>pattern, fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press
>
>So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:=
-)
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo=
! =

>TV.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger =
=

Caf=E9. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=3DTXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1

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Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 14:29:44 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Status: RO


Zuzana wrote:

>Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on
peasant and lower-class clothing in the
>16th or 17th century? All books say lots and lots about court and
aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously      >cares about peasants. 

http://www.12eyes.co.uk/stays/ordwomen.htm 
is a brief document prepared for the Sealed Knot in the UK (reenacting
1640s)

______________________________________________________________________

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 05:32:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes, I have the Tudor tailor, it's currently the best thing I could find, but still I'd like to find something that goes more in detail (about lower-class dresses) and also something about 17th century (which might be quite a problem, maybe 18th century would not be very different - concerning peasants' dress???)

Is this:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html

the text that is also in the book "The well dressed peasant"? Or does the book contain more than is on the website?

Thanks,

Zuzana

       
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Status: RO

> > Dear h-costumers,=0A> > Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I'=
ve been meaning to ask=0A> > if anyone else has online costume brag books t=
hey'd like to share.=0A=0AMe too, me too! It's very out-of-date and not at =
all comprehensive... but: http://www.icynic.com/~knowles/Constanza.html
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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:37:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here's a better link for the Jan Steen and company.
the Web Gallery of Art has a new address.

http://www.wga.hu/

There's an index. Just look under S.

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:24:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here is my online portfolio, which also includes
various research sections. It will be updated for new
projects this fall, once I get some time.
A Gentlewoman's Warderobe Accounts
http://www.kimiko1.com/warderobe.html

Kimiko


--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dear h-costumers,
> Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've
> been meaning to ask
> if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd
> like to share.
> It's nice to see the work and the faces behind the
> email addresses.
> Way back when h-costume first started (mid-90s) we
> had to plan lunch
> in a local restaurant & bring photo albums.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



       
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Status: RO

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> 
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html
> 
> the text that is also in the book "The well dressed peasant"? Or does the book contain more than is on the website?
> 


I think the book and website text are the same. It includes the 'making 
of' pages with directions, too. It's been a few years since I've seen a 
copy, but I remember when I looked through it, that I didn't see 
anything obviously new.

Paul Meekins' claims to have a copy for sale.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/cost/costindex.htm



Dawn


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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:34:12 -0700
From: "Katie Grinn" <goodwifekate@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
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Status: RO

My favorite lower class/ peasant costuming website is www.tudorgroup.co.uk =
.
Lots of photos of the group in their handmade costumes. Really beautiful.

-Katie


On 9/7/07, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant
> and lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots =
and
> lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares abo=
ut
> peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailable:
>
> Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish   Workingwomen's Dress =96 Tem=
p
> out of stock
>   Drea Leed. Author describes her research into various aspects of the
> garments, then details construction, including very simple patterns. Tr
> pb,   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers & inside covers, 4 color interio=
r
> plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing working women's
> garments.   Notes, pictography & bibliography, plus appendices on making =
a
> bodice   pattern, fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press
>
> So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:-)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo!
> TV.
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:17:03 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Status: RO

At 15:30 07/09/2007, you wrote:
> > > Dear h-costumers, > > Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me 
> that I've been meaning to ask > > if anyone else has online costume 
> brag books they'd like to share. Me too, me too! It's very 
> out-of-date and not at all comprehensive... but: 
> http://www.icynic.com/~knowles/Constanza.html


Most of my pictures are on my website www.suziclarke.co.uk but there 
are also extra ones here http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/  Click on 
the pictures of costumes, of course!

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I know this is a costume email list but I am unaware of any fashion 
design lists (if someone knows of one, please fill me in).  I believe a 
few of you teach fashion as well as costume, and I'm looking for a book 
that is specifically related to the subject of designing fashion 
commercially.  Not the theory behind design, not rendering, but the 
actual steps taken by a commercial fashion designer when designing a 
line or collection of clothes for a manufacturer.  I'm teaching a class 
on the costume and fashion industries and most of my experience is in 
theatrical costuming.  I have a great book already on the fashion 
industry and all its facets, but I want to outline the entire procedure 
a clothing fashion designer takes and I've only worked in the garment 
industry as a patternmaker.   Anyone know of such a work?

Sylrog

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Subject: [h-cost] 14th century men's coat?
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Status: RO

I'm looking for examples of 14th century men's coats. I'm not particular
about the geographical area as long as it's European. Western European is
best, but eastern would be fine in a pinch too. Need to make a sleeved coat
for someone, but I want it documentable. Thanks for any suggestions...

Talia

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From: "Sue" <sue@victorianmillinery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] feather dress
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:56:05 -0400
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Status: RO

I think the easiest way to sew feathers is by using the feather pads. Here 
is a url for pads. The peacock or pheasant look the best for you want, I 
think.
Victorian Millinery
sue@victorianmillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick,MD 21701
301-694-8950




http://www.ostrich.com/shop/cat?cmd=pad-index 


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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:38:25 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
Cin wrote:
> ...I've been meaning to ask
>> if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share.

>www.reddawn.net/costume/gallery.htm

>And where was yours again? :)
>Dawn

Cinbarnes.googlepages.com\CostumeProjects

Here I thought I was going to get away without being called to share...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:07:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Also directly from the authors at
http://www.tudortailor.com


MaggiRos
--- "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com> wrote:

> 'The Tudor Tailor' by Ninya Mikhaila has lots of
> styles that are either working class or easily
> adaptable to working class. I believe it is readily
> available on Amazon:
>
http://www.amazon.com/Tudor-Tailor-reconstructing-sixteenth-century/dp/0896762556/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-0545319-9158352?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1189168104&sr=1-1
>  
> Karen
> Seamstrix
>  
>  
> 
> -- "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com> wrote:
> These are both on Drea's website, there's more there
> but I don't have time 
> to do it right now.  I may have other sites, etc
> bookmarked and will look 
> later if no one else sugggests them first.
> 
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
> 
>
http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/secondhandclothes.html
> 
> Laurie
> 
> >From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> >Subject: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th
> century
> >Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 01:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or
> websites) on peasant and 
> >lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century?
> All books say lots and 
> >lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no
> one obviously cares about 
> >peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be
> completely unavailable:
> >
> >Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish  
> Workingwomen's Dress – Temp 
> >out of stock
> >    Drea Leed. Author describes her research into
> various aspects of the   
> >garments, then details construction, including very
> simple patterns. Tr pb, 
> >   saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers & inside
> covers, 4 color interior   
> >plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing
> working women's garments. 
> >   Notes, pictography & bibliography, plus
> appendices on making a bodice   
> >pattern, fabric sources. Costume & Dressmaker Press
> >
> >So do you know anything like this? Any hints will
> be very useful to me:-)
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out
> tonight's top picks on Yahoo! 
> >TV.
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Kick back and relax with hot games and cool
> activities at the Messenger 
> Café.
>
http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
>
_____________________________________________________________
> Click for free info on rehab treatments for drug
> &amp; alcohol dependency.
>
http://3rdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nCeLIksk90f9TtzoN64HToJLKRV9qAyblCb7tn043NhpbTi/
> _______________________________________________
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> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 16:27:37 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fashion design materials
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Status: RO

Hi Sylvia--
One of the only books is

Ruth E.Glock and Grace I.Kunz: Apparel Manufacturing-- Sewn Product
Analysis, 4th Edition
Pearson/ Prentice Hall, 2005. ISBN #0-13-111982-6

Dry as dust, but has what you need.

Monica Spence
Designer/ Patternmaker / Technical Design and now College Professor in
Fashion.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] fashion design materials


I know this is a costume email list but I am unaware of any fashion
design lists (if someone knows of one, please fill me in).  I believe a
few of you teach fashion as well as costume, and I'm looking for a book
that is specifically related to the subject of designing fashion
commercially.  Not the theory behind design, not rendering, but the
actual steps taken by a commercial fashion designer when designing a
line or collection of clothes for a manufacturer.  I'm teaching a class
on the costume and fashion industries and most of my experience is in
theatrical costuming.  I have a great book already on the fashion
industry and all its facets, but I want to outline the entire procedure
a clothing fashion designer takes and I've only worked in the garment
industry as a patternmaker.   Anyone know of such a work?

Sylrog

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Status: RO

If you can find it - Historic Costume in Pictures, Braun and Schneider, Dover Press. 1975. A collection of etchings, four to a plate, mostly groups, done in the latter half of the 19th century. These are secondary sources of clothing from much of the world. Plates 33 through 66 cover you time period in England, France, Germany, Russia and Turkey. All B&W. All classes of persons. Hope you can find one. Best of luck .Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
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>My favorite lower class/ peasant costuming website is
>www.tudorgroup.co.uk
>Lots of photos of the group in their handmade costumes. Really beautiful.

>-Katie

Oh, I recognise that face!  Ruth Goodman of "Tales from the Green
Valley" & "Tudor Feast at Christmas".  BBC productions.  Fascinating
shows.  I can only wish they were longer & more detailed.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
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Status: RO

The author of this page, you'll notice, is the same
Drea Leed whose book you'ere looking for. she's also
on this list, though I haven't seen her name recently.
Yes, she is  very good for this stuff.

For 17th century particularly, look at genre paintings
buy Jan Steen and others. If you don't see a lot of
difference between 1540 and 1670, it's safe to say
peasant clothes didn't change much over that stretch
of time.

MaggiRos

--- Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Yes, I have the Tudor tailor, it's currently the
> best thing I could find, but still I'd like to find
> something that goes more in detail (about
> lower-class dresses) and also something about 17th
> century (which might be quite a problem, maybe 18th
> century would not be very different - concerning
> peasants' dress???)
> 
> Is this:
> 
>
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html
> 
> the text that is also in the book "The well dressed
> peasant"? Or does the book contain more than is on
> the website?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Zuzana
> 
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Got a little couch potato? 
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> _______________________________________________
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> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Status: RO


On Sep 7, 2007, at 1:34 PM, KLH wrote:

> I'm looking for examples of 14th century men's coats. I'm not  
> particular
> about the geographical area as long as it's European. Western  
> European is
> best, but eastern would be fine in a pinch too. Need to make a  
> sleeved coat
> for someone, but I want it documentable. Thanks for any suggestions...

You might be interested in looking at the surviving "pourpoint of  
Charles of Blois", which dates to the later 14th century.  If you  
plug that name into the appropriate search field at <http:// 
www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/choosegarment.php>, it'll  
give you a list of various publications that have information on it.

Heather

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From: "KLH" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 14th century men's coat?
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 23:37:24 -0500
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Status: RO

I'm familiar with that garment but actually I'm not looking for a fitted
coat, I'm looking for an overcoat with sleeves. Cloaks get boring pretty
quickly, and I want to make a nice winter coat for someone I know. Thanks
though.

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Heather Rose Jones
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 11:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century men's coat?



On Sep 7, 2007, at 1:34 PM, KLH wrote:

> I'm looking for examples of 14th century men's coats. I'm not
> particular
> about the geographical area as long as it's European. Western
> European is
> best, but eastern would be fine in a pinch too. Need to make a
> sleeved coat
> for someone, but I want it documentable. Thanks for any suggestions...

You might be interested in looking at the surviving "pourpoint of
Charles of Blois", which dates to the later 14th century.  If you
plug that name into the appropriate search field at <http://
www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/choosegarment.php>, it'll
give you a list of various publications that have information on it.

Heather

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <652659.88307.qm@web82515.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20070907191519.03454c80@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 00:43:55 -0400
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Status: RO

Suzi,

I love this peacock feather cloak/mantle!
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/p10043021.html

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep  8 01:14:49 2007
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 01:05:54 -0400
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Status: RO

On Friday 07 September 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant and
> lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots and
> lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares about
> peasants. 

Le Poulet Gauche, a French reenactor site, has a page on lower class women's 
and one on lower class men's costume; here's the woman's page.  You can also 
find this from Drea Leed's site:

http://www.lepg.org/women.htm

Jen Thompson's page on 16th c. lower class costume is good too, and the link 
from Drea's page to it is obsolete.  You need to go here:

http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/portfolio.html


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
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Status: RO

I dunno if anyone's mentioned it yet, but go look at every painting by  Peter 
Breugel you can find. And you can find a lot! Just do a Google for images.  
In the paintings you can even see how things are cut, as he very often paints  
in the seams.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online
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Status: RO

I'll take this opportunity to remind everyone that you can also set 
up your own album in the Contributor's section of the International 
Costumers' Gallery. Simply go to

www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

and establish an account (easy and no cost). You can then set up you 
own album. Everyone is welcome.

Pierre
International Costumers' Guild
Archivist and Parliamentarian



"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
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Status: RO

I wrote the following directions for another list, which doesn't overlap 
   much with this one, so I thought I'd post them here.

My hair is down to about mid-back length. I wear a kind of Alphonse 
Mucha style that I invented. It's very easy and it looks great.

First (you might be able to skip this step if your hair is naturally 
curly) I wash my hair, put a fair amount of gel on it, and put it in pin 
curls overnight, or till it is fully dry. I form fairly large curls, as 
much as a bobby pin will hold. It is not at all necessary to have them 
arranged on the head super evenly or neatly, but it seems better to wind 
them all "rotating" in the same direction. When my hair is dry I take 
out the bobby pins.

Then I comb through my hair very briefly with my fingers if the curls 
are very tight, otherwise not. I pull my hair straight up off the crown 
of my head, then fasten it fairly near the ends with one of those 
fiber-covered elastics in brown or black (I have medium brown hair). 
Then I squash the hair down, and fasten it firmly with a plastic 
"tortoiseshell" butterfly clip. (I bought a whole bunch of them with 
Art-Nouveau-comb inspired designs for about 30 cents apiece at Ross 
Dress for Less.) The middle of the hair swirls around the top of the 
head and face, and the clip fastens the ends through to the roots of the 
hair underneath. Voila, the Mucha hairstyle.

This hairstyle comes out somewhat differently every single time you 
squash it. If the first try is unattractive, just pull your hair up 
again before you put on the clip, and repeat the process. You can get a 
slightly different effect by twisting the length of hair somewhat before 
you squash it down. You can get an asymmetric look by pushing the length 
of hair more to the right or left as you squash it. You can leave a long 
curl outside the updo, to fall on your neck, on either one or both sides 
of your head, and more towards the back or front as you choose. If the 
hair at the back of your head looks too puffed out, you can put a second 
clip (I use a smallish one) at the middle of the back of your head.

I like this hairstyle, it's a lot of fun.

Frances Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic and Vintage Clothing
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
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Status: RO

I think I get it but it would so much funner if you had pictures...(wink, 
wink)
Laurie


>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
>Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 13:53:39 -0700
>
>I wrote the following directions for another list, which doesn't overlap   
>much with this one, so I thought I'd post them here.
>
>My hair is down to about mid-back length. I wear a kind of Alphonse Mucha 
>style that I invented. It's very easy and it looks great.
>
>First (you might be able to skip this step if your hair is naturally curly) 
>I wash my hair, put a fair amount of gel on it, and put it in pin curls 
>overnight, or till it is fully dry. I form fairly large curls, as much as a 
>bobby pin will hold. It is not at all necessary to have them arranged on 
>the head super evenly or neatly, but it seems better to wind them all 
>"rotating" in the same direction. When my hair is dry I take out the bobby 
>pins.
>
>Then I comb through my hair very briefly with my fingers if the curls are 
>very tight, otherwise not. I pull my hair straight up off the crown of my 
>head, then fasten it fairly near the ends with one of those fiber-covered 
>elastics in brown or black (I have medium brown hair). Then I squash the 
>hair down, and fasten it firmly with a plastic "tortoiseshell" butterfly 
>clip. (I bought a whole bunch of them with Art-Nouveau-comb inspired 
>designs for about 30 cents apiece at Ross Dress for Less.) The middle of 
>the hair swirls around the top of the head and face, and the clip fastens 
>the ends through to the roots of the hair underneath. Voila, the Mucha 
>hairstyle.
>
>This hairstyle comes out somewhat differently every single time you squash 
>it. If the first try is unattractive, just pull your hair up again before 
>you put on the clip, and repeat the process. You can get a slightly 
>different effect by twisting the length of hair somewhat before you squash 
>it down. You can get an asymmetric look by pushing the length of hair more 
>to the right or left as you squash it. You can leave a long curl outside 
>the updo, to fall on your neck, on either one or both sides of your head, 
>and more towards the back or front as you choose. If the hair at the back 
>of your head looks too puffed out, you can put a second clip (I use a 
>smallish one) at the middle of the back of your head.
>
>I like this hairstyle, it's a lot of fun.
>
>Frances Grimble
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic and Vintage Clothing
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft® Office Live! 
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Status: RO

I understand, but since I spend too much time on the net already I set 
up ground rules for myself so I can get some paying work done.  These 
include: No posting pictures, no blogging, no reading blogs, and no 
viewing Utube!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

zelda crusher wrote:

> I think I get it but it would so much funner if you had 
> pictures...(wink, wink)
> Laurie

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Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 18:43:44 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
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Status: RO

My friend Lisa used to do this... but she would sit in a chair and lean  over 
so her head was upside down and then grab her mass of wavy  loosely curled 
hair and swirl it in one direction and clamp it [with a small  rubber band for 
hair] leaving a tuft above long enough to play with. Then  when she came right 
side up it would collapse softly and she'd firmly pin the  rubber band on the 
crown of her head, then she'd arrange the tuft with pins to  cover the rubber 
band. Or, instead of a tuft, she'd make a loop of hair so the  ends were lost 
under it when she carefully pinned it to her crown.
 
Boy...this is hard to explain in words!
 
And I myself cannot make hair do anything. I greatly appreciate people who  
can do the dos.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 9/8/2007 5:11:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

These  
include: No posting pictures, no blogging, no reading blogs, and no  
viewing Utube!



**********
 
What's left? :-P



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 19:57:58 -0700
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Status: RO

Got any pictures? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 1:54 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Directions for Alphonse Mucha hairstyle

I wrote the following directions for another list, which doesn't overlap 
   much with this one, so I thought I'd post them here.

My hair is down to about mid-back length. I wear a kind of Alphonse Mucha
style that I invented. It's very easy and it looks great.

First (you might be able to skip this step if your hair is naturally
curly) I wash my hair, put a fair amount of gel on it, and put it in pin
curls overnight, or till it is fully dry. I form fairly large curls, as much
as a bobby pin will hold. It is not at all necessary to have them arranged
on the head super evenly or neatly, but it seems better to wind them all
"rotating" in the same direction. When my hair is dry I take out the bobby
pins.

Then I comb through my hair very briefly with my fingers if the curls are
very tight, otherwise not. I pull my hair straight up off the crown of my
head, then fasten it fairly near the ends with one of those fiber-covered
elastics in brown or black (I have medium brown hair). 
Then I squash the hair down, and fasten it firmly with a plastic
"tortoiseshell" butterfly clip. (I bought a whole bunch of them with
Art-Nouveau-comb inspired designs for about 30 cents apiece at Ross Dress
for Less.) The middle of the hair swirls around the top of the head and
face, and the clip fastens the ends through to the roots of the hair
underneath. Voila, the Mucha hairstyle.

This hairstyle comes out somewhat differently every single time you squash
it. If the first try is unattractive, just pull your hair up again before
you put on the clip, and repeat the process. You can get a slightly
different effect by twisting the length of hair somewhat before you squash
it down. You can get an asymmetric look by pushing the length of hair more
to the right or left as you squash it. You can leave a long curl outside the
updo, to fall on your neck, on either one or both sides of your head, and
more towards the back or front as you choose. If the hair at the back of
your head looks too puffed out, you can put a second clip (I use a smallish
one) at the middle of the back of your head.

I like this hairstyle, it's a lot of fun.

Frances Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic and Vintage Clothing
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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Status: RO

No.  I never take photos for the net. I really hate either taking or 
posing for photos. I did way too much of both as a journalist.

Fran

Sharon Collier wrote:
> Got any pictures? 
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Status: RO

This is outside my area of expertise, and a quick Google didn't yield  
anything.
 
Are there any good American Civil War era patterns on the market for  
toddlers' and children's clothes?
 
Ann Wass



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Children's Patterns
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War Children's Patterns


> This is outside my area of expertise, and a quick Google didn't yield
> anything.
>
> Are there any good American Civil War era patterns on the market for
> toddlers' and children's clothes?
>
> Ann Wass
>
I've heard a lot of praise for the patterns from Elizabeth Stewart Clark 
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/PP/index.htm I haven't used them but 
from internet correspondence with her on various lists I know she's done a 
lot of research on the mid 19th century and really knows her stuff.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
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Hi all! I may be going to a masque ball with a London in 1790 setting in
a few months, and I'm wondering what sets masquerade clothes and
accessories apart from regular clothing in the 1780's and 90's. Is there
anything published on this specific subject, or any relevant web pages?
I've tried to google for sites and books but have come up short.

The very few contemporary pictures I've found look like people wore
normal party wear and just added masks, but somehow that strikes me as
odd. I would appreciate any info on this. :)

Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
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In a message dated 9/9/2007 8:07:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
ingridgs@techarea.net writes:

Hi all!  I may be going to a masque ball with a London in 1790 setting in
a few  months, and I'm wondering what sets masquerade clothes and
accessories  apart from regular clothing in the 1780's and 90's. Is there
anything  published on this specific subject, or any relevant web pages?
I've tried  to google for sites and books but have come up  short.



Aileen Ribeiro's "The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France  1750-1820" 
is what you need.  One chapter is "Remembrance of Things Past:  Image and 
Reality in Fancy Dress in England."  You may find inspiration for  a Turkish, Van 
Dyke, or classically-based ensemble.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Children's Patterns
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In a message dated 9/9/2007 6:55:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

I've  heard a lot of praise for the patterns from Elizabeth Stewart Clark  
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/PP/index.htm 


Thanks--they certainly look good.
 
Ann Wass



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Status: RO

At 13:05 09/09/2007, you wrote:
>Hi all! I may be going to a masque ball with a London in 1790 setting in
>a few months, and I'm wondering what sets masquerade clothes and
>accessories apart from regular clothing in the 1780's and 90's. Is there
>anything published on this specific subject, or any relevant web pages?
>I've tried to google for sites and books but have come up short.
>
>The very few contemporary pictures I've found look like people wore
>normal party wear and just added masks, but somehow that strikes me as
>odd. I would appreciate any info on this. :)
>
>Ingrid


People did not necessarily wear what we would consider "fancy dress". 
They frequently wore evining clothes, and a "domino" over. This was a 
hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are patterns for both, 
taken from original garments,  in "Period Costume for Stage and 
Screen - Outer Garments Book 1" which includes Coats, cloaks, capes, 
and mantles. A mask would be worn with this cloak. There was a 
convention that if you were masked and cloaked, you were not recognised.

I can't access the other information I have right now, but if you 
want any more info, just let me know.

Suzi

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0709091340550.19628@kalymnos.domenebutikken.no>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 20:19:57 +0200
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Status: RO

Often the "ordinary" cut was used in masqued costumes, but they were 
decorated in some fancy ways, wich was not ordinary.
Cavalier style was much heep in the end of 18th century, but made not as 
historically correct, as we do today, more a sort of 18th century way of 
cavalier style, if you know what i meen.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ingrid G. Storrø" <ingridgs@techarea.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 2:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear


> Hi all! I may be going to a masque ball with a London in 1790 setting in
> a few months, and I'm wondering what sets masquerade clothes and
> accessories apart from regular clothing in the 1780's and 90's. Is there
> anything published on this specific subject, or any relevant web pages?
> I've tried to google for sites and books but have come up short.
>
> The very few contemporary pictures I've found look like people wore
> normal party wear and just added masks, but somehow that strikes me as
> odd. I would appreciate any info on this. :)
>
> Ingrid
>
> -- 
> This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Domenebutikken - 
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> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> People did not necessarily wear what we would consider "fancy dress". 
> They frequently wore evining clothes, and a "domino" over. This was a 
> hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are patterns for both, 
> taken from original garments,  in "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 
> - Outer Garments Book 1" which includes Coats, cloaks, capes, and 
> mantles. A mask would be worn with this cloak. There was a convention 
> that if you were masked and cloaked, you were not recognised.


"Fancy Dress" often still was consistent with formal wear.

Back at Costume-Con 17, Deb Salisbury did a fabulous "Harem Girl" 
historical fancy dress costume which fused the pants of a harem girl 
with the bustle of the fashion of the day. Her research was rock-solid.

<http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3733>

andy
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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 05:38:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
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Status: RO

At 02:51 10/09/2007, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>People did not necessarily wear what we would consider "fancy 
>>dress". They frequently wore evining clothes, and a "domino" over. 
>>This was a hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are patterns 
>>for both, taken from original garments,  in "Period Costume for 
>>Stage and Screen - Outer Garments Book 1" which includes Coats, 
>>cloaks, capes, and mantles. A mask would be worn with this cloak. 
>>There was a convention that if you were masked and cloaked, you 
>>were not recognised.
>
>
>"Fancy Dress" often still was consistent with formal wear.
>
>Back at Costume-Con 17, Deb Salisbury did a fabulous "Harem Girl" 
>historical fancy dress costume which fused the pants of a harem girl 
>with the bustle of the fashion of the day. Her research was rock-solid.
>
><http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3733>

Isn't this Victorian  though? I have lots of Victorian fashion plates 
of fancy dress, but have seen virtually nothing for the late 18th century.

Suzi

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Status: RO

>From my own reading and study, the concept of "Fancy Dress" in this period 
at least for women simply meant an exageration of curent vogue or the 
fanciful appropriation of clothing from another class ( gussied up with 
jewels and of course, feathers).  Q MarieAntoinette's milkmaid/farm wear or 
perhaps opera or ballerina garb that would allow the tasteful show of ankle.
Since Fashion had achieved the highest level, there was no challenge to try 
to better it by going to an historical past for inspiration.  It did however 
call for getting out all one's visable wealth and trotting out for public 
display...with a fan-mask of perhaps allegorical signifince.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear


> At 02:51 10/09/2007, you wrote:
>>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>>People did not necessarily wear what we would consider "fancy dress". 
>>>They frequently wore evining clothes, and a "domino" over. This was a 
>>>hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are patterns for both, taken 
>>>from original garments,  in "Period Costume for Stage and Screen - Outer 
>>>Garments Book 1" which includes Coats, cloaks, capes, and mantles. A mask 
>>>would be worn with this cloak. There was a convention that if you were 
>>>masked and cloaked, you were not recognised.
>>
>>
>>"Fancy Dress" often still was consistent with formal wear.
>>
>>Back at Costume-Con 17, Deb Salisbury did a fabulous "Harem Girl" 
>>historical fancy dress costume which fused the pants of a harem girl with 
>>the bustle of the fashion of the day. Her research was rock-solid.
>>
>><http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3733>
>
> Isn't this Victorian  though? I have lots of Victorian fashion plates of 
> fancy dress, but have seen virtually nothing for the late 18th century.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Thanks so much to all who have replied so far, I very much appreciate
everyone's insights. The books suggested look fantastic; I haven't been
able to afford Hunnisett yet and Ribeiro was unknown to me. My local
library doesn't have them but I should be able to get them through ILL -
I'll probably be back with more questions after some reading. :)

Suzi, if your other information is easily accessible I'd love to have
it, but if it's a lot of trouble please don't bother. :)

Thanks,
Ingrid


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I love the colors. It makes the picture look
hand-tinted1 :)

MaggiRos

--- Andrew Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:

> Suzi Clarke wrote:
> > People did not necessarily wear what we would
> consider "fancy dress". 
> > They frequently wore evining clothes, and a
> "domino" over. This was a 
> > hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are
> patterns for both, 
> > taken from original garments,  in "Period Costume
> for Stage and Screen 
> > - Outer Garments Book 1" which includes Coats,
> cloaks, capes, and 
> > mantles. A mask would be worn with this cloak.
> There was a convention 
> > that if you were masked and cloaked, you were not
> recognised.
> 
> 
> "Fancy Dress" often still was consistent with formal
> wear.
> 
> Back at Costume-Con 17, Deb Salisbury did a fabulous
> "Harem Girl" 
> historical fancy dress costume which fused the pants
> of a harem girl 
> with the bustle of the fashion of the day. Her
> research was rock-solid.
> 
>
<http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3733>
> 
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Subject: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it looks black in my book.
Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.

Lady Lyonet of Greystone
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It should be in "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Francois Boucher on p.230.


llyonet@cox.net wrote: I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it looks black in my book.
Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.

Lady Lyonet of Greystone
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

It's on the Galleria degli uffizzi webpage:

http://www.sbas.firenze.it/inv1890/scheda.asp


llyonet@cox.net wrote: I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it looks black in my book.
Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.

Lady Lyonet of Greystone
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

oh sorry I mixed Lucretia and Laudonia:-)) Apologies:-)

llyonet@cox.net wrote: I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it looks black in my book.
Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.

Lady Lyonet of Greystone
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


       
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Sep 10 18:06:26 2007
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 17:05:54 -0500
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Status: RO

Sometimes museums and site do not have the same title of a =
portrait..so....

Lucrecia
http://tinyurl.com/22ltz6
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_045.jpg

Laura
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_042.jpg

Young woman
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_059.jpg

Laudomia de' Medici.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Bronzino%2C_laudomia_d=
e%27_medici.jpg

http://tinyurl.com/yt6hg9

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of llyonet@cox.net
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:33 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-request@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici


I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici by =
Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it =
looks black in my book.
Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.

Lady Lyonet of Greystone
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:14:40 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

At 02:52 PM 9/10/2007, you wrote:
>It's on the Galleria degli uffizzi webpage:
>
>http://www.sbas.firenze.it/inv1890/scheda.asp
>
>
>llyonet@cox.net wrote: I am looking for a color scan of the painting 
>of Laudonia de Medici by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
>I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but it 
>looks black in my book.
>Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
>Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.
>
>Lady Lyonet of Greystone

I got an internet error message in Italian when I tried to use your 
link.  When I went to the home page, I could not find a way to look 
at pictures in the collection.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

If I remember correctly, there's a large image of it in Moda a Firenze.
I can scan it, but it won't be until tomorrow. 

The gown is black and silver, accented with white pearls.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: llyonet@cox.net
Date: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:35 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-request@indra.com

> I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici 
> by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
> I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but 
> it looks black in my book.
> Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
> Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.
> 
> Lady Lyonet of Greystone
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

Isn't her name Laudomia? Moda a Firenze has the picture as Isabella de
Medici (Cosimo and Eleonora's daughter) Laudomiia was the Cosimo's cousin,
sister of Lorenzino who murdered Alessandro, the Duke.

Here is the Wikipedia link: It has a good-sized picture.
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immagine:Bronzino%2C_laudomia_de%27_medici.jpg


Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of ailith@neo.rr.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici


If I remember correctly, there's a large image of it in Moda a Firenze.
I can scan it, but it won't be until tomorrow.

The gown is black and silver, accented with white pearls.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: llyonet@cox.net
Date: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:35 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-request@indra.com

> I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici
> by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
> I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but
> it looks black in my book.
> Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
> Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.
>
> Lady Lyonet of Greystone
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
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Status: RO

I've seen both "Laudomia" and "Laudonia"; one is in 20,000 Years of
Fashion and the other is in an Italian language book about Bronzino. 

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Date: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:53 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> Isn't her name Laudomia? Moda a Firenze has the picture as Isabella de
> Medici (Cosimo and Eleonora's daughter) Laudomiia was the Cosimo's 
> cousin,sister of Lorenzino who murdered Alessandro, the Duke.
> 
> Here is the Wikipedia link: It has a good-sized picture.
>
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immagine:Bronzino%2C_laudomia_de%27_medici.jpg
> 
> 
> Monica
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
> bounces@indra.com]OnBehalf Of ailith@neo.rr.com
> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:23 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly, there's a large image of it in Moda a 
> Firenze.I can scan it, but it won't be until tomorrow.
> 
> The gown is black and silver, accented with white pearls.
> 
> kate
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: llyonet@cox.net
> Date: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:35 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: h-costume-request@indra.com
> 
> > I am looking for a color scan of the painting of Laudonia de Medici
> > by Bronzino, circa 1560-65.
> > I am seeing it in a rich deep jewel toned velvet (in my mind) but
> > it looks black in my book.
> > Wouldnt this dress be lovely made up?
> > Thanks in advance for any assistance on my behalf.
> >
> > Lady Lyonet of Greystone
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Classes
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Status: RO

Saturday our fall semester starts at the Costume Classroom, =
www.costumeclassroom.com .  We have a new class this semester taught by =
Joy Hobbs.  Her class is titled "19th Century Parasols: Their History, =
Construction, and Restoration."

The classes are self-paced and need to be completed by Dec. 31.   The =
last day to enroll in classes is Nov. 30.  Part of the class fees =
include a subscription to our online Library for the duration of the =
semester.

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Status: RO

Thank you so much, Kind Ladies for the links.
I do not have Moda Frieze (sp) too broke right now for it, but it is on my wish list.
I do have "2000 Years of Fashion" but in my copy, tis black and white.
Beautiful gown and I am not having much luck at resisting the temptation of making it up in a jewel tone.  
Thanks again for the links.
Lyonet

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici/Laudomia
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Status: RO

I put a couple of versions of the image on my website
http://www.audreybmorin.ca/costumes/laudomia/research.php

It was a long time ago. One day I might finish the dress. Right now,
some other projects have taken the lead...

On 9/11/07, llyonet@cox.net <llyonet@cox.net> wrote:
> Thank you so much, Kind Ladies for the links.
> I do not have Moda Frieze (sp) too broke right now for it, but it is on my wish list.
> I do have "2000 Years of Fashion" but in my copy, tis black and white.
> Beautiful gown and I am not having much luck at resisting the temptation of making it up in a jewel tone.
> Thanks again for the links.
> Lyonet
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laudonia de Medici/Laudomia
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 15:27:46 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

My color screen displays the color illustration of the gown as a  
dark, dark plum rather than black. If you're going for color, I can  
recommend dark, dark plum--just gorgeous!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Sep 11, 2007, at 2:17 PM, <llyonet@cox.net> wrote:

> Thank you so much, Kind Ladies for the links.
> I do not have Moda Frieze (sp) too broke right now for it, but it  
> is on my wish list.
> I do have "2000 Years of Fashion" but in my copy, tis black and white.
> Beautiful gown and I am not having much luck at resisting the  
> temptation of making it up in a jewel tone.
> Thanks again for the links.
> Lyonet
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Status: RO

 
 

I suppose the gallery section of my website would count as one (brag book  
that is).
 
there's a ton of stuff that I have yet to get around to adding, but there's  
a bit.
 
_http://www.deborahloughcostumes.com/gallery.html_ 
(http://www.deborahloughcostumes.com/gallery.html) 
 
debs





   
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Subject: [h-cost] Buttons & things colonial
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Status: RO

Greetings Earthlings,
=20
I'm making a 1770's colonial rural town crier. Obviously, the client  wants=20
it to look Paul Revere-ish and sorta Norman Rockwell.... nothing  unusual an=
d=20
something kids [his audience] will get right away. It's hot down  here and=20
everything will be linen....in fact linen I ALREADY HAD in a box in a =20
closet...Yay! So I want to evoke a colonial military uniform but not have it=
  actually be=20
a uniform. The shirt is made...and is white handkerchief linen with  buttons=
=20
made of shell. The waistcoat will be unbleached linen that has a  pale bone/=
=20
taupe look and that typical linen weave. I think I'll line it in  some mediu=
m=20
brown cotton I have. The breeches will be a linen that looks  like kettle=20
cloth, y'know where the yarns are unevenly dyed. It has a medium  indigo blu=
e mixed=20
with the bone color of the waistcoat.
The coat will be a typical civilian coat without revers in a blue that =20
almost looks like denim but with more of a cobalt blue hue to it. I  thought=
 I=20
would line it in white but cannot find any light weight cotton chintz  or sl=
ick=20
poplin or sateen. I was thinking about buying some cotton sateen sheets  to=20=
line=20
it with. I had to talk him into the coat so I want to keep it  linen/cotton=20
and light. Should I do a mariner's cuff? Too military? I want it to  really=20
have the feel of just a piece of cloth, y'know. I may not put any  inner-fac=
ing=20
in it. I plan to wet it and crumple it a bit so it's not crisp and =20
fashionable. That sagging rumpled linen look.=20
=20
And maybe some gaiters. I like the look of all those buttons up the outside=20=
=20
calf. But I do also have riding boots... but I'd have to put a cuff on them=20
and  I don't know if he wants to fool with boots. Of course all the buttons=20=
on=20
the  gaiters! Talk about fooling with something.
=20
Which brings me to buttons. Gaiters, breeches, coat, waistcoat....  I need a=
=20
million of them. Anyone have a fave source? I like the idea of  bone or horn=
=20
on the breeches and waistcoat and some metal on the coat and  gaiters. Haven=
't=20
check anywhere like Greenburg & Hammer yet but I found  some good choices he=
re:
=20
_http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Category/423.aspx?gclid=3DCPH37_vt-40CFQMYFQo=
dikA
rKw_=20
(http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Category/423.aspx?gclid=3DCPH37_vt-40CFQMYFQo=
dikArKw)=20
=20
=20
But how about those typical plain ol' pewter buttons. I haven't even =20
looked...but where would you go for those? Certainly right for the  gaiters.
=20
How about a leather tricorn? Too "Pirates of the Caribbean?"
=20
The only other thing I think he needs is a satchel. That could fulfill my =20
leather accessory need! Does any reenactor vendor make a military leather =20
satchel? It doesn't look like a difficult thing to make though. Or I wonder=20=
in a =20
tack shop would have something like saddle bags that might work.  Hmmmmm....
=20
Any input from you learn=E9d colleagues will be most  welcome.



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Subject: [h-cost] Need lacemaking info for a novel
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Status: RO


Hi All---

Sorry for the cross-posting, but here is an interesting question from an
author friend of mine. Can someone help her out? Send me an email and I'll
send it to her and you can come up with the conversation from there.


Tricia writes:  ..."Does anybody know anything about making lace by hand?
Specifically, would it cause calluses or such if you do it as your
livelihood? Any info would be appreciated..."


Thanks for the help!

Catriona/ Monica


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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 22:12:39 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need lacemaking info for a novel
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Status: RO

At 07:59 PM 9/11/2007, you wrote:

>Hi All---
>
>Sorry for the cross-posting, but here is an interesting question from an
>author friend of mine. Can someone help her out? Send me an email and I'll
>send it to her and you can come up with the conversation from there.
>
>
>Tricia writes:  ..."Does anybody know anything about making lace by hand?
>Specifically, would it cause calluses or such if you do it as your
>livelihood? Any info would be appreciated..."
>
>
>Thanks for the help!
>
>Catriona/ Monica

No, you do not get calluses from lace-making, whether bobbin lace, 
needle lace, or netted lace.  You may develop problems with your 
sight, or general health problems from being in a hunched-over 
position for too many hours at a time.  Your hands need to be smooth 
to avoid catching on the fine threads.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buttons & things colonial
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

This isn't my period, but I always envisioned a town crier to look a bit like this guy with stockings and buckled shoes: 
  http://www.noquartergiven.net/hamptonbbfestival.htm (about 1/3 down the page)
   
  It would certainly be less work than all of those buttonholes on the gaiters. :)

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
    Greetings Earthlings,

I'm making a 1770's colonial rural town crier. 
  ...
And maybe some gaiters. I like the look of all those buttons up the outside calf. But I do also have riding boots... but I'd have to put a cuff on them and I don't know if he wants to fool with boots. Of course all the buttons on the gaiters! Talk about fooling with something.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 12 07:03:17 2007
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: silks for sale & NEW Elizabethan corset
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Greetings,

Please forgive this commercial post.  I've already posted this to the 
YahooGroups but for those of you who aren't members and might be 
interested... I'm moving and clearing out my fabric stash.  I've just 
added a bunch of silks to the page... 
http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html

Please email me at gilshallos@comcast.net if you are interested in 
any of these fabrics.  I apologize in advance - none of the gowns 
currently showing on the garb page are available, however there will 
be a silk and linen corset boned with reeds going up on that page 
tomorrow, as well as a wool cloak.  If anyone is interested in the 
corset and wants photos before tomorrow I can easily email them.  It 
is a brand new corset, never worn (the purchaser reneged so I'm 
dropping the price to sell) and is silk, linen and boned with reeds.

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 12 12:34:35 2007
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 12:30:31 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buttons & things colonial
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 9/12/2007 5:35:36 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
beteena@mostlymedieval.com writes:

a bit  like this guy with stockings and buckled shoes: 



***************
 
See, that's what he originally wanted. But a waistcoat sans coat?   Nope. 
[Maybe a sleeved one. And that seems a bit old fashioned to me for  1770's. We 
also discussed a work smock and also a rifle shirt.]  He  can op to not wear the 
coat if he chooses. And, in an attempt to make the  costume more interesting, 
I like the idea of gaiters, or riding boots.  Making gaiters is less 
expensive than the right shoes. I really hate those  fake buckle thingies! He can also 
op out of the gaiters if he chooses. I'm  giving him a complete outfit. He 
can wear it the way he wants, I suppose, but I  want to do my part correctly. 
It's for theatre [he's a story  teller] however, not a museum, so I'm not doing 
handmade buttonholes. [I  may do all the top stitching by hand though, because 
that really looks different  from machine top stitching. There's also a trick 
we did on "Interview with the  Vampire" where you just quickly do a whip 
stitch around machine  buttonholes... not that close together. It just makes the 
buttonhole not  look so machine-made neat. Still, I've seen hand made 
buttonholes that are  perfect and look like no human hand has touched  them.]



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 12 16:19:23 2007
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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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Status: RO

I really liked the picture someone posted of Lucrezia:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Agnolo_Bronzino%2C_ritratto_di_Lucrezia_de%27_Medici.JPG

Does anyone have a higher resolution version of that one?

-E House 

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Status: RO


I have rescently moved from California to New Orleans
and I am desperate to meet other historical
costumers.... Any on this list? Anyone know of any
historical costume/dance /re-enactment folks (All the
civil war folks seem mostly military focused) in the
area?  Any and all help or suggestions would be appreciated


       
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From: Brooke Aiello <brookelynne2@yahoo.com>
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I have rescently moved from California to New Orleans
and I am desperate to meet other historical
costumers.... Any on this list? Anyone know of any
historical costume/dance /re-enactment folks (All the
civil war folks seem mostly military focused) in the
area?  Any and all help or suggestions would be appreciated


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:38:39 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for h-costumers in NOLA
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Status: RO

I have a friend in New Orleans.  She is a fabulous costumer--does
wonderful embroidery and embellishments--mainly late 19th and early
20th c.  And she has started making repro. shoes.  I can forward your
contact info. to her if you'd like.

She also does vintage dance, WW I, is a musician, and works at a museum.

There are several vintage dancers in the New Orleans Area, not sure
how active they are for events.

Katy

On 9/12/07, Brooke Aiello <brookelynne2@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I have rescently moved from California to New Orleans
> and I am desperate to meet other historical
> costumers.... Any on this list? Anyone know of any
> historical costume/dance /re-enactment folks (All the
> civil war folks seem mostly military focused) in the
> area?  Any and all help or suggestions would be appreciated
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 18:09:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for h-costumers in NOLA
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Status: RO

Hi Brooke, 

Fancy meeting you here!

Kimiko


--- Brooke Aiello <brookelynne2@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> I have rescently moved from California to New
> Orleans
> and I am desperate to meet other historical
> costumers.... Any on this list? Anyone know of any
> historical costume/dance /re-enactment folks (All
> the
> civil war folks seem mostly military focused) in the
> area?  Any and all help or suggestions would be
> appreciated
> 
> 
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship
> answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers -
> Check it out. 
>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
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that gives answers, not web links. 
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 23:01:37 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Need lacemaking info for a novel
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Status: RO

Thanks for the help, everyone!
Catriona/ Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: monica spence [mailto:monicaspence@optonline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:59 PM
To: Maunche; Laurel; Classes; Historical Costume
Subject: Need lacemaking info for a novel



Hi All---

Sorry for the cross-posting, but here is an interesting question from an
author friend of mine. Can someone help her out? Send me an email and I'll
send it to her and you can come up with the conversation from there.


Tricia writes:  ..."Does anybody know anything about making lace by hand?
Specifically, would it cause calluses or such if you do it as your
livelihood? Any info would be appreciated..."


Thanks for the help!

Catriona/ Monica


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Hi all, I've been invited to a 'Pirates of the Carribean' ball this weekend 
and I'm trying to create an 18th century impression (accuracy isn't hugely 
important but I'd like to kind of fit with the theme). I've done what I can 
with the dress itself (basically taking this dress 
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/117/315985189_13bdd4e2ef.jpg and trying to 
make it look like a robe a l'anglaise by adding a ruffle of lace to simulate 
engageantes [sp?], I also thought of looping the skirt up to simulate a 
polonaise but as it's not open in front I don't think that will work so 
well). But I think what is going to really make this look 18th century is 
the accessories. Thus far my plans are to try to simulate an 18th century 
hairstyle using my own (hip length) hair over pads and possibly a cap of 
some sort.
So my question is does anybody know of instructions on the web for making an 
18th century cap that might work with 18th century big hair but also work OK 
with more flat hair if my attempts at big hair fail.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Quickest and easiest would be a small lace-edged doily with two 
streamers, if you achieve big hair, or a little ribbon bow at the back 
if not.  If you have time you can run a casing round the edge of the 
fabric circle and gather it so it's a bit more head-shaped rather than 
completely flat.  Attach with bobby pins through the lace so they don't 
show.

JEan


Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> Hi all, I've been invited to a 'Pirates of the Carribean' ball this 
> weekend and I'm trying to create an 18th century impression (accuracy 
> isn't hugely important but I'd like to kind of fit with the theme). 
> I've done what I can with the dress itself (basically taking this 
> dress http://farm1.static.flickr.com/117/315985189_13bdd4e2ef.jpg and 
> trying to make it look like a robe a l'anglaise by adding a ruffle of 
> lace to simulate engageantes [sp?], I also thought of looping the 
> skirt up to simulate a polonaise but as it's not open in front I don't 
> think that will work so well). But I think what is going to really 
> make this look 18th century is the accessories. Thus far my plans are 
> to try to simulate an 18th century hairstyle using my own (hip length) 
> hair over pads and possibly a cap of some sort.
> So my question is does anybody know of instructions on the web for 
> making an 18th century cap that might work with 18th century big hair 
> but also work OK with more flat hair if my attempts at big hair fail.
> thanks
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Add a kerchief over the shoulders and pin to the front; it's amazing
how much that will aid the picture.
LynnD

On 10/12/07, Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> Hi all, I've been invited to a 'Pirates of the Carribean' ball this weekend
> and I'm trying to create an 18th century impression (accuracy isn't hugely
> important but I'd like to kind of fit with the theme). I've done what I can
> with the dress itself (basically taking this dress
> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/117/315985189_13bdd4e2ef.jpg and trying to
> make it look like a robe a l'anglaise by adding a ruffle of lace to simulate
> engageantes [sp?], I also thought of looping the skirt up to simulate a
> polonaise but as it's not open in front I don't think that will work so
> well). But I think what is going to really make this look 18th century is
> the accessories. Thus far my plans are to try to simulate an 18th century
> hairstyle using my own (hip length) hair over pads and possibly a cap of
> some sort.
> So my question is does anybody know of instructions on the web for making an
> 18th century cap that might work with 18th century big hair but also work OK
> with more flat hair if my attempts at big hair fail.
> thanks
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Lynn Downward wrote:
> Add a kerchief over the shoulders and pin to the front; it's amazing
> how much that will aid the picture.
> LynnD

Yes, a lace or embroidery trimmed fichu will do a lot. Or a ruffle at 
the neckline in lace.

Also a fan and a small purse would be good accessories.

I did a quick look through some of my books and don't see much on 
headwear for parties, indoors, at that time. It looks like arranged hair 
with some kind of lacy cap and or flowers and bows was it. Brimmed hats 
seem to be an outdoor thing.

Hope we can see pictures when you're done!



Dawn

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Hello,

I recently looked through a (not yet published) costume book of one of my friends which tells about clothing in the western Europe around the 13th and 14th centuries. It is divided into chapters, each for one specific garment (like gardecorp, tunic, surcotte...). It is supposed to talk about nobility.

Well, in a chapter about women's underwear, I found a picture of a woman wearing something like male braies, and another picture depicting a woman with a garment that looked like today's pants or knickers. It was redrawn, but if I could only remember the source...

The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a general practice for women to wear such underclothes. Well, if I remember right, all history of underwear books tell you what a scandal it was when (was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started to wear drawers, inspired by the eastern countries. Then, it was actually the 19th century when drawers became common and were no sign of scandal or anything else.

Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter? If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something. 

Do you know anything about this? I really am confused but this topic interests me quite a lot, so I'd like to get to know something more about it:-)

Many thanks,

Zuzana


       
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> The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a general practice for women to wear such underclothes. 

Well, the first thing I'd do, since it's a friend's book, is ask him 
what his source is.



Dawn


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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> Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter?

My understanding is that chausses were worn equally by men and women.
I don't know if they just wore knee-high hose or full-leg chausses,
though.

> If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something.

A simple belt would do here.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Yes, a fichu is a real sign of the 18th century. Also a ribbon and/or lace  
choker with the bow tied at the back.
 
As for a cap, the not accurate but often used circle of batiste or  
embroidered net or something, gathered 2 or 3" in from the edge is a choice. The  real 
cut of this kind of cap is a "D" shape, with the curved part gathered to a  
straight band anywhere from 1" to 3" wide [can be tapered at the ends]. The  
straight part of the "D" has a narrow casing at the hem with a hole at  its 
center for the ends of narrow tapes [that ribbon for ribbon embroidery  works well] 
to come through so you can pull it and draw it up as much as  you need and 
tie the tapes in a little bow at CB. One can just run elastic thru  the straight 
part and put a little fake bow in the center... The edge of the  band [that 
the curved part is gathered to] can have a frill of lace or batiste  added to 
it. If you make this frill a little wider at the sides than at the  front it 
looks very period.
 
If you do a quickie and just do the gathered circle version, you might want  
to make it an oval keeping the casing for the gathers a circle....thus making  
the outer ruffle a little wider at the sides. This can be perched on top of  
a mountain of hair, or pinned slightly it the back for the lower hair  dos.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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There are images out there aplenty of women's hiked skirts showing
chausses-- and they tend to be knee-high. The Egerton Genesis has
drawings of Dinah being raped in the market and her leg is exposed--
definitely knee-high. The various Tacuinum (Tacuinae?) also have women
showing a bit of leg here and there, and again, it seems knee-high
chausses were the norm.=20

Astrida


******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
>Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 3:25 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
>
>> Another question that has something in common with the first=20
>one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter?
>
>My understanding is that chausses were worn equally by men and women.
>I don't know if they just wore knee-high hose or full-leg=20
>chausses, though.
>
>> If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the=20
>chausses to something.
>
>A simple belt would do here.
>_______________________________________________
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>> From: AlbertCat@aol.com :

> > I'm making a 1770's colonial rural town crier.

---------
You don't say how authentic you wnat to ooutfit to be.  Assuming you want some, but not complete, authenticity, here are some suggestions off the top of my head.  (Read between the lines)
----------

The waistcoat will be unbleached linen that has a pale bone/ 
> taupe look and that typical linen weave. I think I'll line it in some medium 
> brown cotton I have.
-------
If it is hot I would strongly recommend lining the waistcoat and coat in linen, not cotton---MUCH cooler and wicks moisture away from the body better. (coming from a re-enactor in Virginia, where we know about hot weather) If you are interested in authenticity, you might try an lightweight natural-color linen.

I think you would be happier making the coat lined rather than unlined, as you suggested.  It will be receiving a lot of wear, presumably, and will last longer if it is lined. In hot weather, it will soon take on the slightly rumpled linen look you are seeking.
-------


> And maybe some gaiters. I like the look of all those buttons up the outside 
> calf. But I do also have riding boots... but I'd have to put a cuff on them 
> and I don't know if he wants to fool with boots. Of course all the buttons on 
> the gaiters! Talk about fooling with something. 

--------
Riding boots would not only be correct for most 18th century men, but have you ever spent a day in riding boots?  Tired, hot, unhappy feet will result.  If I were a town crier spending my day on the streets, I would much prefer shoes.  If you do not think that plain breeches and stockings are not sufficient, maybe you could consider half-gaiters or spatter-dashes, which do not cover the whole lower leg--cooler, simpler and more comfortable.  
--------
> 
> Which brings me to buttons. Gaiters, breeches, coat, waistcoat.... I need a 
> million of them. Anyone have a fave source? I like the idea of bone or horn 
> on the breeches and waistcoat and some metal on the coat and gaiters.

-----------
Here are some sources of more authentic buttons:

> 
http://www.hushcobuttons.com/Natural-horn-bone-leather.htm
 
http://www.wmboothdraper.com/
 
http://www.gggodwin.com/page21.htm
 
http://jas-townsend.com/index.php?cPath=18
 
----------------

> How about a leather tricorn? Too "Pirates of the Caribbean?" 

----------
WAAAY to POTC, to my mind.  A plain wool felt cocked hat ("tricorn") would be more authentic and more comfortable in hot conditions.
------------
> 
> The only other thing I think he needs is a satchel. That could fulfill my 
> leather accessory need! Does any reenactor vendor make a military leather 
> satchel? It doesn't look like a difficult thing to make though. Or I wonder in a 
> tack shop would have something like saddle bags that might work. Hmmmmm.... 
> 
----------
If you are interested in authenticity, I believe a canvvas haversack would be more appropriate.

Hope these suggestions help.

Jane Pease
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If you want SCA (medieval anad renaissance) re-enactors, check out 
http://kingdomofgleannabhann.org/  and look under local groups.

Janet


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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     You said it was a ball, right?  and you're going to style your long
hair into something big?  In that case, my suggestion is to add a
couple of ostrich plumes.  Pearls, silk flowers and the like could be
used, too.  There is one charicature of a lady with a ship in full
sail worked into her do!  But caps, not so much.

     Although a neck-handkerchief (fichu) would help the style of the
gown, they were worn less in the evening than the daytime and less by
younger women compared to older.  So you may prefer to not bother
with that, either, although the neck frill (gathered fabric or lace
as a choker) would be nice.  At pirate events, women tend to show off
their charms quite a lot.

     As for polonaise on an open gown, that's what they did!  You wear a
petticoat underneath (what we would call a skirt).  Ball-wear would
have a petticoat of the same fabric as the gown.  Sleeve ruffles or
cuffs would also be the same fabric, with white fabric or lace for
the engegentes.

     A fan is a nice accessory, but I would not bother with a bag.  Ladies
wore pockets under their petticoats, and they were accessed through
slits at the side of the petticoat (leave the side seam unstitched
for the top 8").  That way your personal items stay with you and you
have your hands free to dance.

     Much depends on the part of the 18thC you are going for, and many
movies are all over the place with that.  The ball may also have a
wide era for what's expected on the participants.

     You can probably get away with wearing knee socks (don't wear
horizntal stripes) which would be white or colors depending on the
era and your sense of style.  Wear black stockings & shoes if you
think the footwear is not "right" and you want it to disappear.

     Oh, and a thin coat of clown white for a base, rouged cheeks, and a
few black patches to complete the look.

     -Carol

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

Do please try to go back and find out the source!  In our group we 
always say "we don't know what women wore under their dresses, because 
we haven't found any naughty pictures from the period".  But I for one 
often wear braies just for warmth.  You don't necessarily need braies to 
wear hose or chausses, you can tie them straight to a belt or wear 
knee-length ones, but it's more comfortable with braies.

In terms of it being a scandal for women to wear drawers in later 
periods, it's amazing how short society's memory can be about that sort 
of thing.  And I was told by Hungarian folk dancers in the 1990s that, 
for them, it was still just recently that only prostitutes wore 
knickers.  Their dancing skirts were almost full circle, sunray pleated, 
but they wore a very short, straight underskirt to preserve their 
decency when the skirts flew up in spins and (they said) no knickers 
underneath.

Jean




Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I recently looked through a (not yet published) costume book of one of my friends which tells about clothing in the western Europe around the 13th and 14th centuries. It is divided into chapters, each for one specific garment (like gardecorp, tunic, surcotte...). It is supposed to talk about nobility.
>
> Well, in a chapter about women's underwear, I found a picture of a woman wearing something like male braies, and another picture depicting a woman with a garment that looked like today's pants or knickers. It was redrawn, but if I could only remember the source...
>
> The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a general practice for women to wear such underclothes. Well, if I remember right, all history of underwear books tell you what a scandal it was when (was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started to wear drawers, inspired by the eastern countries. Then, it was actually the 19th century when drawers became common and were no sign of scandal or anything else.
>
> Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter? If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something. 
>
> Do you know anything about this? I really am confused but this topic interests me quite a lot, so I'd like to get to know something more about it:-)
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
>  Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter? If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something. 
>  
>

As far as I know, women wore hose under their skirts winter and summer.  
They were just above knee length and held up by being gartered just 
below the knee.  Incidentally, men's chausses weren't generally tied to 
the braies either-- a belt or cord held up both the braies and the 
chausses.  That doesn't necessarily mean that women didn't wear braies, 
though.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones will probably chime in on this one if she sees it -- she gave a presentation on exactly this issue at Kalamazoo a couple of years ago (and has just submitted a paper version for a future _Medieval Clothing and Textiles_).

Basically, what I think she winds up saying is that virtually all the pictorial examples of women wearing braies in medieval Western Europe turn out to fit into one of two themes: (1) mythical women such as the Amazon warrior queen Penthisilea; or (2) "who wears the pants in the family" arguments between women and men. Neither one of these seems intended as a realistic picture of what women actually wore.

(Heather, did I summarize this correctly?)

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
<< Well, in a chapter about women's underwear, I found a picture of a woman 
wearing something like male braies, and another picture depicting a woman 
with a garment that looked like today's pants or knickers. It was redrawn, 
but if I could only remember the source...>>

I betcha the top image here was at least one of them:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/drawers.htm


<< The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a 
general practice for women to wear such underclothes. Well, if I remember 
right, all history of underwear books tell you what a scandal it was when 
(was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started to wear drawers, 
inspired by the eastern countries. Then, it was actually the 19th century 
when drawers became common and were no sign of scandal or anything else. >>

>From what I've read--not that I've researched it seriously or 
anything--there was a good bit of scandal associated with the wearing of 
drawers/pantaloons/pantalettes (ankle-length drawers) in the early 19thC 
(starting in 1806). It was considered highly indecent to have anything 
between your legs like that; the shameless hussies, wearing men's garments! 
Also, a flesh-toned pair worn under a sheer gown, as apparently was 
sometimes done, presented a very scandalously risque look--think wet t-shirt 
with no bra, especially since dashing females are said to have dampened 
their dresses to make them cling.

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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> Well, if I
> remember right, all history of underwear books tell you what a scandal
> it was when (was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started
> to wear drawers, inspired by the eastern countries. Then, it was
> actually the 19th century when drawers became common and were no sign
> of scandal or anything else. >>

I would treat with caution any stories of the scandalous things  
Catherine de Medici did.  At least one of these stories (13" iron  
corset) seems to have been anti-French propaganda on the part of the  
British, coming from a Victorian history of underwear (_Freaks of  
Fashion, the Corset and the Crinoline_, by somebody or other Lord; per  
Valerie Steele's _A Cultural History of the Corset_)

Emma

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
...<< Basically, what I think she winds up saying is that virtually all the 
pictorial examples of women wearing braies in medieval Western Europe turn 
out to fit into one of two themes: (1) mythical women such as the Amazon 
warrior queen Penthisilea; or (2) "who wears the pants in the family" 
arguments between women and men. Neither one of these seems intended as a 
realistic picture of what women actually wore. >>

It's been a while since I've read any of the texts in question, but I seem 
to remember running across quite a few crude gothic-era jokes about women, 
particularly mothers-in-law, falling down stairs or the like and landing 
with their nekkid bum in the air.  The jokes wouldn't have worked nearly so 
well if the women in question were wearing braies...

-E House


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As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps getting =
in the way of completion. Sigh.

Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was =
convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he =
could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as an innocent =
in the proceedings would have been in question. The reference is buried =
in the disaster pile of research, I'll try to find it this weekend....

I don't think it can be said that all women wore them all the time. But =
I also don't think women never wore them.

Astrida

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of E House
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 6:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
=20

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
...<< Basically, what I think she winds up saying is that virtually all =
the=20
pictorial examples of women wearing braies in medieval Western Europe =
turn=20
out to fit into one of two themes: (1) mythical women such as the Amazon =

warrior queen Penthisilea; or (2) "who wears the pants in the family"=20
arguments between women and men. Neither one of these seems intended as =
a=20
realistic picture of what women actually wore. >>

It's been a while since I've read any of the texts in question, but I =
seem=20
to remember running across quite a few crude gothic-era jokes about =
women,=20
particularly mothers-in-law, falling down stairs or the like and landing =

with their nekkid bum in the air.  The jokes wouldn't have worked nearly =
so=20
well if the women in question were wearing braies...

-E House


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Status: RO

I'm of the serious thought that women wore SOMETHING in the winter, because 
one winter I was dressed in garb for my own personal research and let me 
clue ya....wind and snow blowing up long skirts (even three layers worth of 
linen and wool) gets mighty cold!!  Backs of my legs and bum were numb after 
a while.

Nope. Wore something on my legs after that.

Brangwyne


Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?



As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps getting in 
the way of completion. Sigh.

Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was convicted 
because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he could do the deed. 
Had there been no braies, her status as an innocent in the proceedings would 
have been in question. The reference is buried in the disaster pile of 
research, I'll try to find it this weekend....

I don't think it can be said that all women wore them all the time. But I 
also don't think women never wore them.

Astrida


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

>As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps getting in the way of completion. Sigh.
>
>Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as an innocent in the proceedings would have been in question. The reference is buried in the disaster pile of research, I'll try to find it this weekend....
>
>I don't think it can be said that all women wore them all the time. But I also don't think women never wore them.
>  
>


That's roughly my feeling on the subject.  There are a few suggestive 
bits of information out there, and those plus the practical 
considerations lead me to believe that drawers/braies wearing my 
Medieval women is at least plausible, if hard to document.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

 
Hating braies as I do (they're just so uncomfortable...)  I'm fine  with 
there being no evidence for women wearing them.  :o)
 
That said, that's the point really - there isn't any evidence - what there  
is that I'm aware of is questionable for one reason or another.


 
Plus it may have varied in different parts of Europe - later on Pepys put  
his wife's wearing of drawers down to her Frenchness!
 
Thinking logically about it, though, they're not needed to hold up women's  
hosen (generally only knee high, so held up with what later became sash  
garters), they don't add greatly in terms of warmth, and they do tend to get in  the 
way somewhat at certain times with a full lenght dress (if you get what I  
mean!).
 
But being in the same group as Jean, I also always tell people that we just  
don't know.
 
You don't wanna know some of the frankly scary replies I've got from  certain 
MoPs !



   
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Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:01:52 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Head: Oversized mob cap. Big circle, lace on the edge, elastic to fit.
For the skirt, how's about "retroussee dans les poches" or "pulled out
thru the pockets.  Reach into the pocket-slashes of your gown (you
might have to open a side seam), grab the same skirt, but lower down &
pull up & back out thru the pockets.  It's more of a street look than
an evening gown look.  You can see a few of these in the Kyoto
Museum's "Revolutions" book. Quick, easy & different.
Have fun!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
Hi all, I've been invited to a 'Pirates of the Carribean' ball this weekend
and I'm trying to create an 18th century impression (accuracy isn't hugely
important but I'd like to kind of fit with the theme). I've done what I can
with the dress itself (basically taking this dress
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/117/315985189_13bdd4e2ef.jpg and trying to
make it look like a robe a l'anglaise by adding a ruffle of lace to simulate
engageantes [sp?], I also thought of looping the skirt up to simulate a
polonaise but as it's not open in front I don't think that will work so
well). But I think what is going to really make this look 18th century is
the accessories. Thus far my plans are to try to simulate an 18th century
hairstyle using my own (hip length) hair over pads and possibly a cap of
some sort.
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Status: RO

> Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter? If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something.  
> 
> Do you know anything about this? I really am confused but this topic interests me quite a lot, so I'd like to get to know something more about it:-) 
> 
> Many thanks, 
> 
> Zuzana

I think we have to imagine that women wore some type of undergarment.  You 
may like going "commando", but I definitely feel more comfy with something 
"down there". 

I've become a great wearer of braies not for warmth, but for comfort at 
sweaty, sticky summer events to keep my inner thighs safe from chafing.  
I've actually adopted a few of my husband's pairs that are too small for 
him. 

As for hose, as others have said we typically see women in knee-high hose, 
but if you've ever worn a skirt in the winter, you know how the wind can 
whistle around up underneath.  I see no reason why women wouldn't have worn 
nice tall, wooly chausses in the wintertime.  Evidence for this is another 
matter, of course, but I can't help but think practically about these 
things. 

 -Helena 



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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

> I've become a great wearer of braies not for warmth, but for comfort at
> sweaty, sticky summer events to keep my inner thighs safe from chafing.

>
> As for hose, as others have said we typically see women in knee-high hose,
> but if you've ever worn a skirt in the winter, you know how the wind can
> whistle around up underneath.  I see no reason why women wouldn't have worn
> nice tall, wooly chausses in the wintertime.  Evidence for this is another
> matter, of course, but I can't help but think practically about these
> things.
>
>  -Helena

My two cents on this, I have found that if you don't want the
chaffing, walk slower,  Living in south Texas, even when not in
costume, that if you walk slowly, chaffing is not an issue anymore.

The other thing I've found is that when your skirts drape upon the
ground, there's no draft and you stay quite warm.  Lift the skirts to
move about and then you get the drafts and cold.  It would seem
there's more to that fashion than conspicuous consumption.

for what it's worth

alex

-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Status: RO

Greetings!

Jean Waddie wrote:
> Do please try to go back and find out the source!  In our group we 
> always say "we don't know what women wore under their dresses, because 
> we haven't found any naughty pictures from the period".

Actually, I've seen a couple of illuminations (that go with the "warming 
oneself by the fire" motif that is often seen for the month of January 
or February (forget which) in medieval calendars that tend to support 
the "no underpants" theory.

Why?  Well, it was obvious there were no underpants by the parts of 
women's anatomy on display :-)

Susan


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

>
> Actually, I've seen a couple of illuminations (that go with the 
> "warming oneself by the fire" motif that is often seen for the month 
> of January or February (forget which) in medieval calendars that tend 
> to support the "no underpants" theory.
>
> Why?  Well, it was obvious there were no underpants by the parts of 
> women's anatomy on display :-)

There's one like that in the Tres Riches Heures, but the man by the fire 
is also pantsless and there are some white items hanging up.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_f%C3%A9vrier.jpg

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Status: RO


On Sep 13, 2007, at 11:46 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
> I recently looked through a (not yet published) costume book of one  
> of my friends which tells about clothing in the western Europe  
> around the 13th and 14th centuries. It is divided into chapters,  
> each for one specific garment (like gardecorp, tunic, surcotte...).  
> It is supposed to talk about nobility.
>
> Well, in a chapter about women's underwear, I found a picture of a  
> woman wearing something like male braies, and another picture  
> depicting a woman with a garment that looked like today's pants or  
> knickers. It was redrawn, but if I could only remember the source...
>
> The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a  
> general practice for women to wear such underclothes. Well, if I  
> remember right, all history of underwear books tell you what a  
> scandal it was when (was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th  
> century started to wear drawers, inspired by the eastern countries.  
> Then, it was actually the 19th century when drawers became common  
> and were no sign of scandal or anything else.

It helps to make a clear division between pre-16th century and 16th- 
and-later century when looking at the question of women and  
underpants in Europe, because there's some rather strong evidence  
that Things Changed 'round about then.

Speaking of the pre-16th century era, there is a rather pervasive  
genre of images depicting women wearing -- or very typically, in the  
act of putting on -- a pair of male-style underpants as an act of  
gender-reversal.  Typically in these depictions, there is an  
accompanying man using "female" tools, such as a distaff or wool- 
winder.  Alternately, the woman may be beating the man with a  
distaff.  Sometimes the image is more subtle and the underpants are  
simply displayed prominently between them while other elements of  
gender-reversal are played out.  In at least one wood-carving, the  
struggle is made overt and the couple are playing tug-of-war over the  
pants.

I strongly suspect that the picture in your friend's book is taken  
from one of these "battle of the sexes" depictions.  The problem with  
using these images as evidence for what women were actually wearing   
is that the context presents underpants as not merely a garment worn  
by men, but as a _definingly_ male garment -- i.e., their use as a  
symbol of gender reversal only works if the viewer understands that  
the act of wearing underpants is, by definition, masculine.

In addition to the battle-for-the-pants genre, there are other images  
commonly circulated in the historic costuming community as evidence  
for medieval women wearing underpants that -- when examined more  
closely -- are using the underpants as a symbol or representation of  
women cross-dressing as men.  A typical example is an illustration  
from an edition of Boccaccio's "Concerning Famous Women" (De Claris  
Mulieribus) for the tale of Queen Semiramis who -- among other things  
-- was notorious for having ruled disguised as a man.

I have yet to research an example of pre-16th century medieval  
European art depicting a woman wearing underpants that did not turn  
out to be using the underpants as a symbol of the appropriation of  
masculine identity or masculine power.   But all three of those  
qualifiers -- "pre-16th century", "medieval", and "European" -- are  
important in limiting my observations here.  (I'd say that "pre-16th  
century" is unnecessary when specifying "medieval", but the latter  
can get some very fuzzy interpretations, so it's included more to  
define an early limit.)

When this topic gets discussed on costuming lists, you often see a  
lot of "argument from personal comfort level".  As students of  
historic costume, I think we need to be very skeptical of the idea  
that logical argument and "what feels comfortable/appropriate to me"  
can lead us to an accurate understanding of what people in other  
cultures and other time periods wore.

Heather

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 23:29:58 -0700
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Status: RO


On Sep 13, 2007, at 3:50 PM, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

>
> As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps  
> getting in the way of completion. Sigh.
>
> Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was  
> convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he  
> could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as an  
> innocent in the proceedings would have been in question. The  
> reference is buried in the disaster pile of research, I'll try to  
> find it this weekend....

I'd be very interested in more details about this trial -- especially  
time, place, and how the account has been transmitted to us.

Heather

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

February. Du Berry Hours
http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v.jpg
http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v-d3l.jpg
But the man next to the woman not wearing any underwear isn't wearing any
either, so does that support men not wearing brais?


-----Original Message-----
Greetings!

Actually, I've seen a couple of illuminations (that go with the "warming
oneself by the fire" motif that is often seen for the month of January
or February (forget which) in medieval calendars that tend to support
the "no underpants" theory.

Why?  Well, it was obvious there were no underpants by the parts of
women's anatomy on display :-)

Susan


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Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 01:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

Heather: "In addition to the battle-for-the-pants genre, there are other images  
commonly circulated in the historic costuming community as evidence  
for medieval women wearing underpants that -- when examined more  
closely -- are using the underpants as a symbol or representation of  
women cross-dressing as men.  A typical example is an illustration  
from an edition of Boccaccio's "Concerning Famous Women" (De Claris  
Mulieribus) for the tale of Queen Semiramis who -- among other things  
-- was notorious for having ruled disguised as a man."

Yes, this was one of the two pictures, someone pointed it out here (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/Semiramis.gif) as well. So, one half is explained! I'm still waiting for the reply from my friend to tell me where the other picture was from. 
But your "gender battle" theory is very interesting, did you ever write an article or anything like that about it? I'd long to get some more detailed information:-)

Heather: "When this topic gets discussed on costuming lists, you often see a  lot of "argument from personal comfort level".  As students of  
historic costume, I think we need to be very skeptical of the idea  
that logical argument and "what feels comfortable/appropriate to me"  
can lead us to an accurate understanding of what people in other  
cultures and other time periods wore."

It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem, but, just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know, people didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most comfortable garments they could. Think of all those corsets and hoop petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by lower-class working women that would surely need a more practical dress than the bourgeoise and nobility.

This picture:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_f%C3%A9vrier.jpg
was in my friend's work as well, but he was talking about two sorts of chausses: one knee-length, which correspond to this picture and are, I think, nothing very surprising, and one long, attached to the waist, the same sort as men wore. The second one was very questionable for me and that was the sort of chausses (or hose) I was talking about. No doubt they're good for warmth, but does any of you have any picture or text that tells us that such garment was (even rarely) used by women?__

Zuzana


       
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'd say that it wouldn't be very surprising if a man didn't always wear braies, if he had a long tunic on. The Scottish, as far as I know, didn't wear any as well. But I remember I recently read a text where someone criticized the Scottish for having no braies - he regarded it a sort of a scandal. I'll try to find out where it was, but am very sceptic about it...

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: February. Du Berry Hours
http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v.jpg
http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v-d3l.jpg
But the man next to the woman not wearing any underwear isn't wearing any
either, so does that support men not wearing brais?


-----Original Message-----
Greetings!

Actually, I've seen a couple of illuminations (that go with the "warming
oneself by the fire" motif that is often seen for the month of January
or February (forget which) in medieval calendars that tend to support
the "no underpants" theory.

Why?  Well, it was obvious there were no underpants by the parts of
women's anatomy on display :-)

Susan


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:06:15 -0400
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Status: RO


On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:03 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
> It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem,  
> but, just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know,  
> people didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most  
> comfortable garments they could. Think of all those corsets and  
> hoop petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by  
> lower-class working women that would surely need a more practical  
> dress than the bourgeoise and nobility.

While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient  
than others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that  
people acted illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is  
misleading.  We tend to think that our current fashion is the most  
logical, comfortable, and lovely one, but people in the past thought  
the same thing.  Susan Vincent's _Dressing the Elite:  Clothes in  
Early Modern England_ has some wonderful information on this.  Every  
fashion has its own internal logic, supported by cultural assumptions  
about what is healthful, beautiful, appropriate, etc.  Corsetry, for  
example, was for most women simply a support garment, like a bra is  
today.  It also held the body in a desirable  shape and protected the  
modesty of the woman inside--the same things a bra does today.  Many  
women who don't actually need the support of a bra wear it to look  
more fashionable and/or to keep the world from knowing when they are  
cold.  For these women, it's slightly more comfortable physically to  
go without, but in public the psychological discomfort outweighs  
that.  Historically, yes, there were some extreme fashions that even  
people of the time found uncomfortable, but for the most part, the  
average person probably felt quite comfortable in their clothes.

It's also important to consider how the body is shaped by lifestyle.   
We are used to having something between our thighs to keep everything  
dry and to keep our thighs from rubbing together, so our inner thighs  
tend to be quite sensitive to moisture and friction.  But there were  
and are many peoples in equatorial areas, in the hottest climates,  
who clearly did and do not wear any sort of underwear.  People in  
these groups whose inner thighs rub together probably have less  
sensitive inner thighs.  Anyone who has ever learned to play the  
violin or ride a horse can tell you how amazingly the body adapts to  
physical circumstances that are at first painful.

So I must agree with Heather that it's dangerous to use modern ideas  
of what is comfortable to evaluate historical clothing practices.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:52:19 -0400
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Status: RO

>> Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was=20
>> convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he=20
>> could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as=20
>an innocent=20
>> in the proceedings would have been in question. >
>I'd be very interested in more details about this trial --=20
>especially time, place, and how the account has been transmitted to us.
>
>Heather


I keep forgetting I have PDFs of completed chapters, so finding this =
wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The trial is listed in Louis =
Tanon's "Registre criminal de la Justice de Saint-Martin-des-Champs =E0 =
Paris au XIVe si=E9cle", Paris: L=E9on Wilhelm, 1877

"L=E0, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gr=E9 et par force, ladicte =
Perrete la Souplice, et la
jeta =E0 terre, et avala ses braies, et se mist sus lui, et s'effor=E7a =
contre sa nature tant
comme il pot..."
(Tanon, 88)


(Now you guys won't 'need' to get the book should it ever make it off of =
my computer ; )  )

Astrida
******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************
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Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
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Status: RO

Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality 
should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.

Janet

>>It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem,  but, 
>>just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know,  people 
>>didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most  comfortable 
>>garments they could. Think of all those corsets and  hoop petticoats and 
>>cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by  lower-class working women 
>>that would surely need a more practical  dress than the bourgeoise and 
>>nobility.
>
>While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient  than 
>others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that  people acted 
>illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is  misleading.  We tend to 
>think that our current fashion is the most  logical, comfortable, and 
>lovely one, but people in the past thought  the same thing>
>So I must agree with Heather that it's dangerous to use modern ideas  of 
>what is comfortable to evaluate historical clothing practices.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:40:17 -0400
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

And there you go-- this is so totally subjective. I don't mind pantyhose
at all (except on really hot days).

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
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(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of JAMES OGILVIE
>Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:30 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
>
>Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and=20
>practicality should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.
>
>Janet
>
>>>It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem, =20
>>>but, just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know, =20
>>>people didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most =20
>>>comfortable garments they could. Think of all those corsets=20
>and  hoop=20
>>>petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by =20
>>>lower-class working women that would surely need a more practical =20
>>>dress than the bourgeoise and nobility.
>>
>>While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient =20
>>than others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that =20
>>people acted illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is =20
>>misleading.  We tend to think that our current fashion is the most =20
>>logical, comfortable, and lovely one, but people in the past thought =20
>>the same thing> So I must agree with Heather that it's=20
>dangerous to use=20
>>modern ideas  of what is comfortable to evaluate historical=20
>clothing practices.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO


Funny thing is I've met a couple of gentlemen who swear up and down that 
pantyhose are the most comfortable things they've ever worn!

Laurie

>From: "JAMES OGILVIE" <bear_janet@msn.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
>Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 15:30:28 +0000
>
>Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality 
>should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.
>
>Janet
>

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Status: RO

For those of us who came of age wearing stockings and either a garter belt or girdle to keep them up, believe me, pantihose were a GREAT invention.

Ann Wass

Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.?




-----Original Message-----
From: JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:30 am
Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion


Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.?
?
Janet?
?
>>It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem, but, >>just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know, people >>didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most comfortable >>garments they could. Think of all those corsets and hoop petticoats and >>cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by lower-class working women >>that would surely need a more practical dress than the bourgeoise and >>nobility.?
>?
>While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient than >others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that people acted >illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is misleading. We tend to >think that our current fashion is the most logical, comfortable, and >lovely one, but people in the past thought the same thing>?
>So I must agree with Heather that it's dangerous to use modern ideas of >what is comfortable to evaluate historical clothing practices.?
?
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h-costume@mail.indra.com?
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

On Sep 14, 2007, at 6:06 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:03 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>> It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem,  
>> but, just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all  
>> know, people didn't always act very logically and didn't choose  
>> the most comfortable garments they could. Think of all those  
>> corsets and hoop petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest being  
>> worn even by lower-class working women that would surely need a  
>> more practical dress than the bourgeoise and nobility.
>
> While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient  
> than others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that  
> people acted illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is  
> misleading.  We tend to think that our current fashion is the most  
> logical, comfortable, and lovely one, but people in the past  
> thought the same thing.  Susan Vincent's _Dressing the Elite:   
> Clothes in Early Modern England_ has some wonderful information on  
> this.  Every fashion has its own internal logic, supported by  
> cultural assumptions about what is healthful, beautiful,  
> appropriate, etc.

Comfort is what you're used to, and it's not synonymous with  
practicality.

Having worn Elizabethan menswear (drafted from Arnold) for a season  
of faire, I can say that over time the posture it encourages was  
uncomfortable for me. That doesn't mean that someone who developed  
that posture from childhood by wearing those clothes daily would find  
it uncomfortable.

Having now worn 16th century Japanese, I have to say that while all  
that yardage is hardly practical, it's incredibly comfortable (and a  
great reminder of how hot a country Japan is in summer, in the hot  
snap a few weeks ago I would have been comfortable even under more  
layers).

andy
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Actually, I'm part of the generation that found pantyhose a Much more
comfortable option than stockings, garterbelt (or girdle) and garters.
(Of course, this begs the question of stockings to begin with.)

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of JAMES OGILVIE
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion

Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality

should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.

Janet

>>It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem,
but,=20
>>just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know,  people

>>didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most
comfortable=20
>>garments they could. Think of all those corsets and  hoop petticoats
and=20
>>cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by  lower-class working
women=20
>>that would surely need a more practical  dress than the bourgeoise and

>>nobility.
>
>While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient
than=20
>others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that  people
acted=20
>illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is  misleading.  We tend
to=20
>think that our current fashion is the most  logical, comfortable, and=20
>lovely one, but people in the past thought  the same thing>
>So I must agree with Heather that it's dangerous to use modern ideas
of=20
>what is comfortable to evaluate historical clothing practices.


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Status: RO

otsisto wrote:
> February. Du Berry Hours
> http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v.jpg
> http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v-d3l.jpg
> But the man next to the woman not wearing any underwear isn't wearing any
> either, so does that support men not wearing brais?
>   
I'm going to have to go back through my sources. I remember seeing one 
(not a particularly famous image) where only the woman is flashing the 
viewers--the man isn't.

But the du Berry Hours example is interesting in its own right.  
Regardless of who normally wears underpants, I wonder why they would 
take them off to warm up?

Susan


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Status: RO

Oops, sorry, I forgot-- the rape trial was in 1337 in Paris...=20

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida
>Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:52 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
>
>>> Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was=20
>>> convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he=20
>>> could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as
>>an innocent
>>> in the proceedings would have been in question. >
>>I'd be very interested in more details about this trial -- especially=20
>>time, place, and how the account has been transmitted to us.
>>
>>Heather
>
>
>I keep forgetting I have PDFs of completed chapters, so=20
>finding this wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The=20
>trial is listed in Louis Tanon's "Registre criminal de la=20
>Justice de Saint-Martin-des-Champs =E0 Paris au XIVe si=E9cle",=20
>Paris: L=E9on Wilhelm, 1877
>
>"L=E0, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gr=E9 et par force,=20
>ladicte Perrete la Souplice, et la jeta =E0 terre, et avala ses=20
>braies, et se mist sus lui, et s'effor=E7a contre sa nature tant=20
>comme il pot..."
>(Tanon, 88)
>
>
>(Now you guys won't 'need' to get the book should it ever make=20
>it off of my computer ; )  )
>
>Astrida
>******************
>Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
>The Art Gallery
>University of New Hampshire
>Paul Creative Arts Center
>30 College Road
>Durham, NH 03824
>(603) 862-0310
>astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
>Fax: (603) 862-2191
>******************
>_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 9/14/2007 11:31:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bear_janet@msn.com writes:

Anyone  who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality 
should  contemplate the wearing of pantihose.



*******************
 
You would prefer stockings and a garter belt?



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Astrida: "Là, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gré et par force, ladicte Perrete la Souplice, et la
jeta à terre, et avala ses braies, et se mist sus lui, et s'efforça contre sa nature tant
comme il pot..."
(Tanon, 88)"

Have you ever thought that "et avala ses braies" might also mean "his", not only "her"? Just thinking...:-)


       
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From: "Tori Ruhl" <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Underwear
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Status: RO

I understand the "there is no evidence one way or the other" about women =
wearing underpants in pre-16th century Europe.
but what about during their menses?

I haven't done any research, but I would speculate that they would need to =
wrap or tie something around them in order to keep the linen "pads" in =
place.=20

I defer to those that know a lot more than I do about such things to =
enlighten me. :)

On a personal note, having managed to trip over a tent-rope at an event =
and end up with my kirtle about my head, I'm very glad that I don't =
conform to "commando" practices.=20

- Tori

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Today's Topics:

   1. RE: comfort vs. fashion (Rickard, Patty  )


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:43:15 -0400
From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:
	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B02503EDD@lynx.campus.muc.prv>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=3D"us-ascii"

Actually, I'm part of the generation that found pantyhose a Much more
comfortable option than stockings, garterbelt (or girdle) and garters.
(Of course, this begs the question of stockings to begin with.)

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]=20
On Behalf Of JAMES OGILVIE
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com=20
Subject: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion

Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and practicality

should contemplate the wearing of pantihose.

Janet

>>It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem,
but,=20
>>just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know,  people

>>didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most
comfortable=20
>>garments they could. Think of all those corsets and  hoop petticoats
and=20
>>cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by  lower-class working
women=20
>>that would surely need a more practical  dress than the bourgeoise and

>>nobility.
>
>While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient
than=20
>others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that  people
acted=20
>illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is  misleading.  We tend
to=20
>think that our current fashion is the most  logical, comfortable, and=20
>lovely one, but people in the past thought  the same thing>
>So I must agree with Heather that it's dangerous to use modern ideas
of=20
>what is comfortable to evaluate historical clothing practices.


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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 425
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Status: RO

Tori Ruhl wrote:
> I understand the "there is no evidence one way or the other" about women wearing underpants in pre-16th century Europe.
> but what about during their menses?
> 
> I haven't done any research, but I would speculate that they would need to wrap or tie something around them in order to keep the linen "pads" in place. 
> 

There was a discussion on this very subject here in Jan 06, if you want 
to look up what's already been posted. Not that new discussion isn't 
wanted, but you can read what folks have already figured out, and what 
theories we have.

ARCHIVES:
To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion

I'm sure there are older discussions too, as this topic comes up on 
nearly every costume group I've been on.


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
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Status: RO

Greetings,

Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits  
website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a while it was  
giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of those awful  
commercial link-hubs.

This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century  
portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone and  
not just moved somewhere.

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler 
                                           
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor-portraits.com/
I can find it with the Way Back Machine

Sarah Paterson
----- Original Message ----- 



> Greetings,
> 
> Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits  
> website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a while it was  
> giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of those awful  
> commercial link-hubs.
> 
> This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century  
> portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone and  
> not just moved somewhere.
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler 
>                                           
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

I do not wish to imply that all women in all=20
European cultures in all times wore some sort of=20
pants under their dresses, but do wish to point=20
out a few items still existing that no one has mentioned

The leather "bikinis" (late Roman time period)=20
found in London and on display at the Museum of London.

The "Frauenhose von D=E4tgen, Kr. Rendsburg." Abb.=20
184-190  (text pp78-79) published in
Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in=20
Norddeutschland. Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und=20
Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster: K. Wachholtz,=20
1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391

The late period Italian trouseau in the Met=20
(examined in detail by one of the list members awhile back).

Beth=20

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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear
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On 9/14/07, Tori Ruhl <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com> wrote:
> I understand the "there is no evidence one way or the other" about women wearing underpants in pre-16th century Europe.
> but what about during their menses?

They wore them in 15th c. Spain per The Hispanic Costume Book
1480-1530. They adopted them from the Moors sarawil and were made of
linen and were tied with a drawstring around the waist. They reached
to just below the knee where they met the stockings.
-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:24:29 -0400
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Status: RO

Oooh, neat!  Is this a permanent archive or a temporary one?

Thanks,
Melanie


On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:37 PM, SPaterson wrote:

> http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor- 
> portraits.com/
> I can find it with the Way Back Machine
>
> Sarah Paterson
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>> Greetings,
>> Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan  
>> Portraits  website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a  
>> while it was  giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of  
>> those awful  commercial link-hubs.
>> This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century   
>> portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone  
>> and  not just moved somewhere.
>> Thanks,
>> Melanie Schuessler                                            
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:27:45 -0400
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On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:41 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

>
> The "Frauenhose von D=E4tgen, Kr. Rendsburg." Abb. 184-190  (text =20
> pp78-79) published in
> Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland. =20
> Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster: =20=

> K. Wachholtz, 1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391

What's the date on these?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I actually don't know how long it will be up through that archive - you may 
want to consider saving any images you may need to disc...but it is a great 
tool for old or defunct sites.

Sarah
----- Original Message ----- 



> Oooh, neat!  Is this a permanent archive or a temporary one?
>
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>
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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
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Well, there was an email link on the page via the Way Back Machine. I've
emailed the site owner; so far it hasn't bounced back, so hopefully,
we'll soon have an answer as to whether it's gone or has just been moved.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor-
> portraits.com/I can find it with the Way Back Machine
> 
> Sarah Paterson
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> 
> 
> > Greetings,
> > 
> > Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan 
> Portraits  
> > website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a while it was  
> > giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of those awful  
> > commercial link-hubs.
> > 
> > This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century  
> > portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone 
> and  
> > not just moved somewhere.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie Schuessler 
> >                                           
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 22:37:09 -0400
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Status: RO

Oh, thanks!  I'll be very interested to hear what they say.

Much obliged,
Melanie


On Sep 14, 2007, at 9:33 PM, ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:

> Well, there was an email link on the page via the Way Back Machine.  
> I've
> emailed the site owner; so far it hasn't bounced back, so hopefully,
> we'll soon have an answer as to whether it's gone or has just been  
> moved.
>
> kate
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
> Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:40 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
>> http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor-
>> portraits.com/I can find it with the Way Back Machine
>>
>> Sarah Paterson
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 20:48:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:41 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> I do not wish to imply that all women in all European cultures in =20
> all times wore some sort of pants under their dresses, but do wish =20
> to point out a few items still existing that no one has mentioned
>
> The leather "bikinis" (late Roman time period) found in London and =20
> on display at the Museum of London.
>
> The "Frauenhose von D=E4tgen, Kr. Rendsburg." Abb. 184-190  (text =20
> pp78-79) published in
> Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland. =20
> Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster: =20=

> K. Wachholtz, 1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391
>
> The late period Italian trouseau in the Met (examined in detail by =20
> one of the list members awhile back).

And this is why I emphasized that my observations on interpreting the =20=

artistic representations covered "medieval" and "pre-16th century".

Note that the roman leather "bikinis" seem likely not to have been =20
"underpants" in the usual sense of the term, but perhaps a =20
specialized athletic or theatrical costume.  (Compare, for example, =20
withe the feminine athletes in the 4th c. mosaics at Piazza Armerina =20
in Sicily who are performing various feats wearing only "bikini" =20
bottoms and a breastband.)

I don't know whether anyone has done an in-depth analysis of the =20
gender issues around the D=E4tgen trousers.  I believe the gender =20
association is based on skeletal morphology, but I haven't dug into =20
the question of how complete the skeleton was -- e.g., whether the =20
identification was based on strong evidence like a pelvic girdle or =20
weak evidence like the statistical distribution of long-bone =20
lengths.  Given that they are similar to roughly contemporary male =20
"outer" pants , there's the question -- hypothesizing for the sake of =20=

argument that the gender of the wearer has been correctly identified =20
-- whether this is an example of "feminine underpants" or an example =20
of overt cross-dressing.

And for the 16th c. items -- this is the period when we do start =20
getting a variety of strong evidence for the beginnings of feminine =20
underpant-wearing in Europe.

Heather

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 20:55:45 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:03 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Heather: "In addition to the battle-for-the-pants genre, there are  
> other images
> commonly circulated in the historic costuming community as evidence
> for medieval women wearing underpants that -- when examined more
> closely -- are using the underpants as a symbol or representation of
> women cross-dressing as men.  A typical example is an illustration
> from an edition of Boccaccio's "Concerning Famous Women" (De Claris
> Mulieribus) for the tale of Queen Semiramis who -- among other things
> -- was notorious for having ruled disguised as a man."
>
> Yes, this was one of the two pictures, someone pointed it out here  
> (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/Semiramis.gif) as  
> well. So, one half is explained! I'm still waiting for the reply  
> from my friend to tell me where the other picture was from.
> But your "gender battle" theory is very interesting, did you ever  
> write an article or anything like that about it? I'd long to get  
> some more detailed information:-)

I presented it as a paper at Kalamazoo several years ago.  It will  
eventually be available publicly in some form.

Heather

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion: hose
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Status: RO

I haven't worn panyhose in years.  I never could  find them long enough for 
my legs.  When I do wear hose, I purchase thigh-highs with the elasticized 
tops.  But I only wear hose for warmth in the winter.  If it is really cold 
or snowstorms, I will put on legwarmers.  Since my 30s, I have a natural tan 
complexion and don't need hose otherwise.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
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Status: RO

JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
> Anyone who thinks that people wear clothing for comfort and 
> practicality should contemplate the wearing of pantihose. 


OK, I thought about it.  I don't wear them because they're uncomfortable 
and impractical ;-)


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 16:52:19 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear
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Status: RO

Tori Ruhl wrote:
> I understand the "there is no evidence one way or the other" about women wearing underpants in pre-16th century Europe.
> but what about during their menses?
>
> I haven't done any research, but I would speculate that they would need to wrap or tie something around them in order to keep the linen "pads" in place. 
>
> I defer to those that know a lot more than I do about such things to enlighten me. :)
>   


Only the Shadow knows...

OK, actually the Shadow doesn't know either.  Nobody knows.  But it 
seems unlikely that menstruation would have had a big effect on 
braies-wearing, since they wouldn't have been snug enough to keep 
anything in place.  Immediately before modern adhesive pads came into 
use, a belt-and-pad arrangement was the norm-- it's possible that 
Medieval women had something similar.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 16:54:54 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
In-reply-to: <457718.29454.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Astrida: "Là, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gré et par force, ladicte Perrete la Souplice, et la
> jeta à terre, et avala ses braies, et se mist sus lui, et s'efforça contre sa nature tant
> comme il pot..."
> (Tanon, 88)"
>
> Have you ever thought that "et avala ses braies" might also mean "his", not only "her"? Just thinking...:-)
I think that's entirely possible.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
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	<8feeb1a31c0e.1c0e8feeb1a3@columbus.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 07:48:50 -0400
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Status: RO

I don't know about the tudor-portraits.com site but this site:
http://www.marileecody.com/images.html is my favorite for pictures of a lot
of Tudor era people.

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ailith@neo.rr.com
Sent: September 14, 2007 9:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?

Well, there was an email link on the page via the Way Back Machine. I've
emailed the site owner; so far it hasn't bounced back, so hopefully,
we'll soon have an answer as to whether it's gone or has just been moved.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor-
> portraits.com/I can find it with the Way Back Machine
> 
> Sarah Paterson
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> 
> 
> > Greetings,
> > 
> > Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan 
> Portraits  
> > website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a while it was  
> > giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of those awful  
> > commercial link-hubs.
> > 
> > This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century  
> > portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone 
> and  
> > not just moved somewhere.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie Schuessler 
> >                                           
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Underwear
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Status: RO

http://www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html
Scroll down to the first of the last two pictures. These are not as loose as
the previous. Similar to a previously presented print.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/Semiramis.gif

De

-----Original Message-----
Only the Shadow knows...

OK, actually the Shadow doesn't know either.  Nobody knows.  But it
seems unlikely that menstruation would have had a big effect on
braies-wearing, since they wouldn't have been snug enough to keep
anything in place.  Immediately before modern adhesive pads came into
use, a belt-and-pad arrangement was the norm-- it's possible that
Medieval women had something similar.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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>You would prefer stockings and a garter belt?

Well, I don't recall that stockings and a light panty girdle were much worse 
to wear and were easier to put on.  But it's not a question of stockings vs. 
pantihose - there are many ways to cloth the body without either one.

Janet


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion
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In a message dated 9/15/2007 11:11:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
bear_janet@msn.com writes:

Well, I  don't recall that stockings and a light panty girdle were much worse 
to  wear and were easier to put on. 


Oh my gosh--having to hook the stockings to the little tabs--ugh!  And  
managing the whole assemblage in the restroom. . . . 
 
I confess, I don't wear hose most of the summer, but do prefer them now  that 
fall is here.  I don't wear pants very often, and I do like  something 
covering my feet when I'm wearing shoes other than sandals, and socks  look pretty 
silly on a woman of a certain age, especially in an office.
 
Ann Wass



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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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Status: RO

Melanie,

Late Iron age.. basically contemporaneous with Late Roman Empire.

The best in English about these is in
Hald, Margrethe. Ancient Danish Textiles from=20
Bogs and Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume=20
and Iron Age Textiles. [Copenhagen]: National=20
Museum of Denmark, 1980. ISBN: 8748003123 OCLC:=20
8081458 pp. 328-335. Thorsberg and Daetgen photos and drawings.

The original find (from Schlabow):
Moorleichenfund von D=E4tgen bei Nortorf, Kr. Rendsburg, 1906 -=
 Kleidungsstucke.

If you wish to read the German text from Schlabow, I can send it to you.

There just isn't a lot of "pants" extant from=20
archaeology... male or female... but then there=20
aren't many "dresses" either. So little evidence either way.... <sigh>

Beth

>Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:27:45 -0400
>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:41 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>
> >
> > The "Frauenhose von D=E4tgen, Kr. Rendsburg." Abb. 184-190  (text
> > pp78-79) published in
> > Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland.
> > Gottinger Schriften zur Vor- und Frugeschichte, Bd. 15. Neumunster:
> > K. Wachholtz, 1976. ISBN: 3529015156 OCLC: 2526391
>
>What's the date on these?
>
>Thanks,
>Melanie Schuessler

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Status: RO


Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a good candi=
date for fulling?  My experiments so far have had wildly different results =
(the one which I bought marked 100% wool -a suiting- shrank almost not at a=
ll), the other was a blanket from Value Village (which I did the burn test =
on the sly in the store) shrank about the equivalent of my knitting with a =
worsted yarn.  Thanks for any input.
=20
Laurie
_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo=AE 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. It=92s ou=
r way of saying thanks for using Windows Live=99.
http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=3DSeptemberWLHalo3_WLHMTxt_2=
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I found this site and thought some of you might enjoy it too. 

http://www.oldandinteresting.com/default.aspx

Tons of neat stuff on early domestic chores, tools and methods,
especially laundry. Mostly 18th, 19th and early 20th century stuff, but
some earlier references here and there. 

::Linda::

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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
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Status: RO

I got an email back from the site owner. He says it will be back up
within the month; there's apparently some issues with a museum and Yahoo.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

> http://web.archive.org/web/20070517100921/http://www.tudor-
> portraits.com/I can find it with the Way Back Machine
> 
> Sarah Paterson
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> 
> 
> > Greetings,
> > 
> > Does anyone know what happened to the Tudor and Elizabethan 
> Portraits  
> > website?  (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/)  For a while it was  
> > giving me the Not Found message, and now it's one of those awful  
> > commercial link-hubs.
> > 
> > This was one of the best sites online for finding 16th-century  
> > portraits, and I'll be really distressed if it's actually gone 
> and  
> > not just moved somewhere.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie Schuessler 
> >                                           
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 14:57:47 +1000
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Status: RO

Hi everyone, thanks for the advice, I went shopping on Friday and ended up 
finding a cheap felt tricorn hat from a 'dollar store' type shop so I 
decided as the theme was pirates I would use it instead of investing time 
experimenting with a cap, I did achieve big hair but let it down later in 
the night as the weight was giving me a headache. I only got one photo of 
the completed ensemble, you can see it here 
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1095/1389185881_2bae00cb28.jpg (unfortunately 
my hair came out looking darker than it does in real life and blended in 
with the hat so it's hard to see the effect of my big hair)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Sep 16 03:27:01 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric stores near Luray virginia 
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Status: RO

Hi,

I friend of mine is going on vacation to Luray, virginia from 25 sept 
untill 16 okt.
She was wondering if there are any interesting fabric shops there.
And if they would have pattern sales within that period.

She is interested in Victorian clothing.
If there is anything interesting to see from taht period she would love 
to know too.

Thanx for help,
    Deredere  
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric stores near Luray Virginia 
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Status: RO

Deredere,

There are lots of nice old Victorian/Edwardian homes in the small towns in 
VA.  I love driving through the small towns and would love to live in one of 
these towns one day.  I haven't been to Luray in years.  At that time it 
wasn't a very large town.  Harrisonburg is a mecca of antique stores.  I 
can't recall the name of the highway that goes through Harrisburg but I have 
never seen so many antique stores as there are on it.  This highway was 
featured on HGTV one year for its large amount antique stores.  I don't know 
if it is apple season by the 25th but if it is, make sure your friend brings 
you some.  We do the orchards closer to Charlottesville in the Blue Ridge. 
I know next weekend in Richmond starts the German fests and they go on for a 
month.

Another must see at Luray Caverns is to see the natural wedding chapel.  I 
would love to be there when an actual wedding is talking place.  Your friend 
might want to check the VA Tourist Dept.  This time of year, so many events 
are occurring every weekend.

My son's family goes to Luray and camps around this time of year.  I will 
ask them about the sites and stores in the area.

If your friend goes into the DC metro, G Street fabrics is always a must!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
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References: <457718.29454.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<46EB659E.1090803@paradise.net.nz>
From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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I need to go back to the actual source again (as opposed to the info as =
it currently appears in my chapter) but if I recall correctly (and I =
last looked at this 2 years ago) there was the element in the trial that =
he was convicted because of the need to remove braies from his victim, =
that if she'd not had any on then she could have been a willing =
participant or perhaps had "fair game" status. Now, I can't state this =
with 100% certainty right now as it has been so long. Clearly I need to =
go dig up the records again and clarify how I presented the info in the =
chapter if I can't decisively answer the "ses braies" translation =
question based on how it's currently written.....

Astrida



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Adele de Maisieres
Sent: Sat 9/15/2007 12:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
=20
Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Astrida: "L=E0, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gr=E9 et par =
force, ladicte Perrete la Souplice, et la
> jeta =E0 terre, et avala ses braies, et se mist sus lui, et =
s'effor=E7a contre sa nature tant
> comme il pot..."
> (Tanon, 88)"
>
> Have you ever thought that "et avala ses braies" might also mean =
"his", not only "her"? Just thinking...:-)
I think that's entirely possible.

--=20
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Status: RO

Well, things have certainly changed around my house lately. I am down by a =
husband and up by twice the responsibility of home and child. Bit of a surp=
rise for me; interesting 12th anniversary present - he got a new girlfriend=
. =0AI also have the additional job of being chief decorator and interior s=
chlep for this monstrosity, on top of trying to find myself gainful, on-the=
-books work if I am going to have any shot in hell of keeping this house. I=
f I can't find something that will pay the bills, I have to sell it. In the=
 very likely event that will happen, I have to redecorate and repair everyt=
hing I had been nagging him to do for years as it was, only with less money=
 and time. Now I am not likely to ever enjoy the fruits of these labours.=
=0AThat being said, I have this huge collection of Victorian/Edwardian, and=
 a smidge of American Confed costuming that *really* needs a home now. I ca=
n't afford to have it taking up space, and now that I have to pay for a div=
orce, I could use the money. So much for that special make-me-feel-better-a=
bout-me stuff I was going to do with that money one day. *sigh*=0AAnyway, i=
f anyone knows of a venue that could purchase my stuff, I would be happy fo=
r the leads. I have now become very negotiable on the prices.=0A=0AOff to p=
our my perfume all over the mattress he wants to take from the house. Hope =
she likes my choices. Heh, hope he can live with his. ;-)=0A=0AKathy=0A~bit=
ter? nooohohohoo...~=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged =
on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(F=
ieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s nev=
er too late to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lai=
s imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. =0AWho you are is=
 contained inside, and no one can change that. They can only assist you in =
denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to their own image.=0A=
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real =
people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.y=
ahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian costume collection
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 16:34:07 -0600
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Status: RO

Where are you?

Sylvia

On Sep 16, 2007, at 4:01 PM, Kathy Page wrote:

> Well, things have certainly changed around my house lately. I am down=20=

> by a husband and up by twice the responsibility of home and child. Bit=20=

> of a surprise for me; interesting 12th anniversary present - he got a=20=

> new girlfriend.
> I also have the additional job of being chief decorator and interior=20=

> schlep for this monstrosity, on top of trying to find myself gainful,=20=

> on-the-books work if I am going to have any shot in hell of keeping=20
> this house. If I can't find something that will pay the bills, I have=20=

> to sell it. In the very likely event that will happen, I have to=20
> redecorate and repair everything I had been nagging him to do for=20
> years as it was, only with less money and time. Now I am not likely to=20=

> ever enjoy the fruits of these labours.
> That being said, I have this huge collection of Victorian/Edwardian,=20=

> and a smidge of American Confed costuming that *really* needs a home=20=

> now. I can't afford to have it taking up space, and now that I have to=20=

> pay for a divorce, I could use the money. So much for that special=20
> make-me-feel-better-about-me stuff I was going to do with that money=20=

> one day. *sigh*
> Anyway, if anyone knows of a venue that could purchase my stuff, I=20
> would be happy for the leads. I have now become very negotiable on the=20=

> prices.
>
> Off to pour my perfume all over the mattress he wants to take from the=20=

> house. Hope she likes my choices. Heh, hope he can live with his. ;-)
>
> Kathy
> ~bitter? nooohohohoo...~
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a=20=

> rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
> It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge.
> Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can=20=

> only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you=20=

> to their own image.
>
>
>
>
>
>       Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go=20=

> to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers
> ahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

>
> Only the Shadow knows...

Oh, I haven't heard that one in years. The horror of it all is that I
remember listening to it on the Big living room sized radio!  Maybe that's
why I remember the horrors of the monthly "Attack of the Slime Monster" and
the attendant unpleasantness.  However, those memories have blissfully faded
with the time of the great release!

Regina

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Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 20:20:46 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Underwear
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Status: RO

At 07:13 PM 9/16/2007, you wrote:
> >
> > Only the Shadow knows...
>
>Oh, I haven't heard that one in years. The horror of it all is that I
>remember listening to it on the Big living room sized radio!  Maybe that's
>why I remember the horrors of the monthly "Attack of the Slime Monster" and
>the attendant unpleasantness.  However, those memories have blissfully faded
>with the time of the great release!
>
>Regina

You can have it all back...

Old Time Radio
Download them all (well almost all).  GRINS

http://www.archive.org/details/The-Shadow

Genie
Whose sister listens to these all the time.

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Subject: [h-cost] OT  Shadow comment, was Underwear
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Status: RO

Sorry, everyone, for not changing the subject line last time.

It bugs me, so I am sending this again.


>You can have it all back...
>
>Old Time Radio
>Download them all (well almost all).  GRINS
>
>http://www.archive.org/details/The-Shadow
>
>Genie
>Whose sister listens to these all the time.




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From: Costumer Magazine <costumermag@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What happened to tudor-portraits.com?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I wonder if the selection of portraits will be limited once it's back up?  =
I hope he has it up and running again as it's a wonderful resource.  tudorh=
istory.org has a pretty good gallery as well as marquise.de if you're in ne=
ed of other portraits.=0A=0AArabella=0A=0A=0A+.+.+.+.+.+.+=0AThe Costumer M=
agazine=0Awww.costumermag.com=0A=0A=0A       =0A___________________________=
_________________________________________________________=0ABoardwalk for $=
500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's econ=
omy) at Yahoo! Games.=0Ahttp://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=3Dmonop=
olyherenow  
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric stores near Luray Virginia 
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 02:09:13 -0400
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Status: RO

Deredere,

I asked my daughter-in-law about shops near Luray.  She said there are 
mostly tourist shops.  Nothing much historic.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

I am so sorry to hear that. Where do you live? I can paint/sew, etc. and
would be happy to help. I'm pretty good with tools, too. Comes from =
years as
a theatre tech.
For the costumes:
This was posted on Tribe

Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire=20

Villa Dunes citizen saves Waterside Theatre (article below)=20

(Manteo, NC =96 September 11, 2007) On 11 September 2007 at 12:35 A.M., =
a
resident of Villa Dunes spotted a fire across the sound on Roanoke =
Island,
and called 911. Part of The Lost Colony=92s Waterside Theatre was in =
flames.
All fire departments north of Oregon Inlet responded.=20

Fire crews worked swiftly and efficiently to control the blaze, and take
necessary precautions to save the nearby men=92s dressing room =
structure. In
spite of their efforts, the maintenance shed, which appears to have been =
at
or near the source of the fire was completely destroyed. Charred pieces =
of
framing in a flimsy skeleton, pointing irregularly toward the =
star-lighted
sky, appear to be all that remains of what was the Irene Rains Costume =
Shop.
All of the show costumes, all of the historic costumes, all of the =
fabrics,
all of the shoes and hats are traditionally stored in the costume shop. =
All
are lost=97except the court costumes which fortunately are still at the =
dry
cleaners, and a few that have already been delivered to the NC Museum of
History for the Lost Colony exhibition scheduled to open in October.=20

All of the colonist costumes,=20

and all of the Indian costumes were destroyed.=20

All of the vintage costumes are lost=20

=97all those built by Irene Rains in the 1940s and 1950s;=20

and all of Fred Voelpel=92s in the 1960s, 70s and early 80s;=20

MANY OF 5-TIME TONY AWARD-WINNING DESIGNER WILLIAM IVEY LONG'S=20

COSTUMES WERE ALSO DESTROYED.=20

No other structures appeared to have been damaged. The Nags Head =
resident
who reported the fire saved the theatre.=20

Ironically, 60 years ago, on 24 June 1947, a late afternoon fire =
destroyed
two-thirds of the Waterside Theatre and most of the sets and props. The
costumes in the 1947 disaster escaped the flames, however, because of
costumer Irene Rains=92 quick action in removing them from the dressing =
rooms
and casting the items on the shore. There was no possibility of saving
anything from the current disaster. From the point of arrival of the
firemen, it was impossible to enter the building. The flames were =
already
topping the trees.=20

Once again, The Lost Colony and its supporters must suffer the loss of =
their
history and re-build. Community support is critical and a fund will be
established for the replacement of the costumes.=20

# # #=20



Lost Colony Costume Shop a total loss;=20

Waterside Theatre saved=20

(Manteo, NC =96 September 12, 2007) Firefighters succeed in controlling =
the
devastating blaze, but the entire contents of The Lost Colony=92s =
costume shop
which includes 80% of the active production costumes, were consumed by =
an
early morning fire on Monday September 11th. The swift reaction of the =
fire
fighters and Dare County Emergency Management saved the Waterside =
Theatre
and remaining buildings.=20

Despite the loss, the show will go on. The Lost Colony=92s producing
organization, the Roanoke Island Historical Association Board of =
Directors,
had an emergency meeting on Monday to discuss future plans for the
rebuilding and replacement of the costume shop. =93Whenever there is a
disaster of this magnitude, you put one foot in front of another and =
keep
going. You don=92t look behind, you look to the future. The Lost Colony =
has
rebounded from tragedy before and the show will go on next season. This
dream will live forever,=94 said John Tucker, Chairman of Board of =
Directors
for the Roanoke Island Historical Association (RIHA), producer of The =
Lost
Colony.=20

The outpouring of support from friends, alumni, and the community has =
been a
source of comfort for The Lost Colony Company. East Carolina Bank is
accepting donations for the Costume Shop Replacement Fund at all branch
locations. Additional donation information can be found at
www.thelostcolony.org or by calling 252-473-2127.=20


ez14.ez-web-hosting.com/~thelo...nt.html

And lastly, just to maybe make you smile.....

Have you heard the one about the woman whose husband and new =
girlfriend/wife
wanted to move into her home, which she couldn't afford now he had =
dumped
her? She put fresh shrimp in the hollow curtain rods and moved out. The
smell was awful, but they couldn't figure out where it was coming from. =
They
couldn't sell because of the smell. She was able to buy the house back
cheaply. But they took the curtain rods because wife2 liked them!
It's just a joke/amusing story, but might work in a mattress. Shouldn't =
let
those sewing skills go to waste. I guess it depends how ticked off you =
are.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 3:01 PM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian costume collection

Well, things have certainly changed around my house lately. I am down by =
a
husband and up by twice the responsibility of home and child. Bit of a
surprise for me; interesting 12th anniversary present - he got a new
girlfriend.=20
I also have the additional job of being chief decorator and interior =
schlep
for this monstrosity, on top of trying to find myself gainful, =
on-the-books
work if I am going to have any shot in hell of keeping this house. If I
can't find something that will pay the bills, I have to sell it. In the =
very
likely event that will happen, I have to redecorate and repair =
everything I
had been nagging him to do for years as it was, only with less money and
time. Now I am not likely to ever enjoy the fruits of these labours.
That being said, I have this huge collection of Victorian/Edwardian, and =
a
smidge of American Confed costuming that *really* needs a home now. I =
can't
afford to have it taking up space, and now that I have to pay for a =
divorce,
I could use the money. So much for that special =
make-me-feel-better-about-me
stuff I was going to do with that money one day. *sigh* Anyway, if =
anyone
knows of a venue that could purchase my stuff, I would be happy for the
leads. I have now become very negotiable on the prices.

Off to pour my perfume all over the mattress he wants to take from the
house. Hope she likes my choices. Heh, hope he can live with his. ;-)

Kathy
~bitter? nooohohohoo...~
=20
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.=20
It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.=20
Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can =
only
assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to =
their
own image.





      Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go =
to
Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 07:55:00 -0400
From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

*stares in awe*  That is just absolutely gorgeous, Bjarne--and you
wear it so well!!  Your work is always wonderful, the description of
the event is just fantastic--I can't wait to see the other pics!

Thank you for sharing your experiences!

Meli in the US
(Sharon)

----------------Bjarne wrote:

Dear list.
I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to Bayreut=
h
in South Germany. Night trains really isnt my cop of tea, and i slept very
bad. So i am a little tired.
Spended the weekend of my life with lots of beautifull and kind people
having a danse soir=E9 friday evening in the house of Prinsesse Louise von
Bayern build about 1720.
It was with candle light. An unforgettable walk at the Hermitage at
Bayreuth, saturday afternoon, and following a performance with original
instruments at the Markgr=E4ffliche Opernhaus also early 18th century - the
opera of Henry Purcel "King Arthur"
My head is so full of unforgettable moments and sights with beautifull
dressed 18th century reenacters.
When i get more fresh tomorrow, i shall eddit all my pictures and post a
link to you,
I made a little sneak prewiev with myself in front of the fountain at the
Hermitage with my silver spangeled suit:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig2-1.htm

Bjarne
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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 07:49:08 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] chain of office for Elizabethan
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Status: RO

I have a question for the list.  He is a singer at our local Renaissance
Festival and is required to be a nobleman.  I made an elaborate beaded men's
doublet and panes for him (along the lines of the famous painting of the
pearled jerkin and panes outfit of Sir Walter Ralegh) that he has now picked
up and loves but, he wanted to know what kind of Chain of Office he might be
able to put with the outfit.  I have not seen any Elizabethan men's
portraits with them wearing a chain of office like we saw in the Tudor time
period; only single chains with medallions hanging.  Does any one know of a
portrait that would display what he is looking for or had this fashion just
disappeared by Elizabeth's reign?  

 

Thanks--Diane

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Status: RO

>I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to 
>Bayreuth in South Germany.

<snip>

Bjarne, you look exquisite, as always.  I can't wait to see the rest of your 
pictures!

Richard in MI

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Status: RO

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> I only got 
> one photo of the completed ensemble, you can see it here 
> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1095/1389185881_2bae00cb28.jpg 


Thanks for sharing. You look like you were having a good time. :)



Dawn


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Oh yes, when you have the time, it'd be nice to know in which context it was written:-)  It would surely be a nice "pro" source...:-)

"Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu> wrote: I need to go back to the actual source again (as opposed to the info as it currently appears in my chapter) but if I recall correctly (and I last looked at this 2 years ago) there was the element in the trial that he was convicted because of the need to remove braies from his victim, that if she'd not had any on then she could have been a willing participant or perhaps had "fair game" status. Now, I can't state this with 100% certainty right now as it has been so long. Clearly I need to go dig up the records again and clarify how I presented the info in the chapter if I can't decisively answer the "ses braies" translation question based on how it's currently written.....

Astrida



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Adele de Maisieres
Sent: Sat 9/15/2007 12:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
 
Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Astrida: "Là, en un selier, fist entrer, oultre son gré et par force, ladicte Perrete la Souplice, et la
> jeta à terre, et avala ses braies, et se mist sus lui, et s'efforça contre sa nature tant
> comme il pot..."
> (Tanon, 88)"
>
> Have you ever thought that "et avala ses braies" might also mean "his", not only "her"? Just thinking...:-)
I think that's entirely possible.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] wool for fulling
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Status: RO

At 10:50 AM 9/15/2007, you wrote:

>Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a 
>good candidate for fulling?  My experiments so far have had wildly 
>different results (the one which I bought marked 100% wool -a 
>suiting- shrank almost not at all), the other was a blanket from 
>Value Village (which I did the burn test on the sly in the store) 
>shrank about the equivalent of my knitting with a worsted 
>yarn.  Thanks for any input.
>
>Laurie

Worsted wool suiting is unlikely to full very much, if at all; it's 
generally a smooth, firmly woven, somewhat shiny fabric made of 
worsted-spun wool.  If something is fairly fluffy (meaning it's made 
of a woolen-spun yarn) and not firmly woven, like the blanket, it 
will probably full to some extent (sometimes to a great extent).

Worsted and woolen are technical terms in spinning that define the 
way the wool is prepared and spun (the use of "worsted" as a size of 
yarn is a modern misnomer).  Worsted yarns are very firm and smooth, 
with uniform wool fiber lengths and little air incorporated into the 
thread; the wool fibers are prepared by combing. Woolen yarns are 
more open and airy than worsted, and have a mix of wool fiber 
lengths; the wool fibers are prepared by carding.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

Ann Wass wrote :

"Oh my gosh--having to hook the stockings to the little tabs--ugh!  And =
=20
managing the whole assemblage in the restroom. . . .=20
=20
I confess, I don't wear hose most of the summer, but do prefer them now  =
that=20
fall is here.  I don't wear pants very often, and I do like  something=20
covering my feet when I'm wearing shoes other than sandals, and socks  =
look pretty=20
silly on a woman of a certain age, especially in an office."

I agree - I hated wearing stockings and a suspender belt, for the few =
years I did so before what we call "tights" came in. I could never get the =
tension right and found the "pull" in just four places uncomfortable.

Like Ann, I wear sandals with bare feet in summer but always wear tights =
with shoes, because I hate the feel of bare feet sticking to the inside of =
my shoes. I don't find them uncomfortable at all.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:47:50 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007
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Status: RO

Dear list.
I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to Bayreuth 
in South Germany. Night trains really isnt my cop of tea, and i slept very 
bad. So i am a little tired.
Spended the weekend of my life with lots of beautifull and kind people 
having a danse soiré friday evening in the house of Prinsesse Louise von 
Bayern build about 1720.
It was with candle light. An unforgettable walk at the Hermitage at 
Bayreuth, saturday afternoon, and following a performance with original 
instruments at the Markgräffliche Opernhaus also early 18th century - the 
opera of Henry Purcel "King Arthur"
My head is so full of unforgettable moments and sights with beautifull 
dressed 18th century reenacters.
When i get more fresh tomorrow, i shall eddit all my pictures and post a 
link to you,
I made a little sneak prewiev with myself in front of the fountain at the 
Hermitage with my silver spangeled suit:
  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig2-1.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

>Where are you?=0A=0A>Sylvia=0A=0AI am about an hour's drive west of Toront=
o, Ontario. But I'm happy to ship to anywhere in the world. :-) =0A=0AI jus=
t realised that my soon-to-be ex had uploaded all of my portfolio to his Pi=
casa account, thinking I needed a copy. I had them in my drive, but this is=
 a convenient mistake:=0A http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/KathySCostum=
ing=0AIt's not sorted yet, and I don't currently have access to the account=
 to do any sorting. Any men's wear, children's wear or anything pre-1600 is=
 not for sale. Anything else I will consider. Although I would really like =
to keep my hoop dress, the right price will sell it. I can always make anot=
her one.=0A=0A>I am so sorry to hear that. Where do you live? I can paint/s=
ew, etc. and=0A>would be happy to help. I'm pretty good with tools, too. Co=
mes from years as=0A>a theatre tech.=0A>For the costumes:=0A>This was poste=
d on Tribe=0A=0A>Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire <snip>=0A=0A>Sharo=
n=0A=0AHmmmmm.... I wonder if I called to offer my collection, we could com=
e to an arrangement. =0A=0AThanks for the offer. If you were anywhere near =
me, I'd have you here in a heartbeat. :-) I have so much to do, all little =
annoying things, some need professionals. My SIL is a lighting engineer and=
 interior designer that used to stage houses for realtors, so as far as tha=
t goes, I have a good consultant. We are having a grand time spending his m=
oney to fix the house he no longer lives in. ;-) =0A=0A=0A>Have you heard t=
he one about the woman whose husband and new girlfriend/wife=0A>wanted to m=
ove into her home, which she couldn't afford now he had dumped=0A>her? She =
put fresh shrimp in the hollow curtain rods and moved out. =0A=0A*L* Yes, I=
 have heard it. I thought about pushing a chunk of roadkill into the mattre=
ss, but I'd have to find a way of opening a seam, then replacing it without=
 being noticeable. I just thought my perfume would be nauseating enough to =
him that he won't sleep well. This is the stuff that he said not long ago h=
e liked because it reminded him of me. And incidentally, my mother bought m=
e so much of it, I could bathe in the lotion and bottles of perfume. I'm ju=
st going to spray, smear and powder that damned thing until it reeks, then =
package it up in plastic, looking like I am being pleasant and efficient. I=
t'll be too late by the time he gets it to his "cozy, furnished and conveni=
ent little basement apartment" that he'll be stuck with it. He can't afford=
 to buy a new one now, anyway. The smell will go away - eventually.=0A=0AYe=
s, I am evil!=0A=0AKathy=0A~who's ex thinks my making comments in an email =
about cold beds is funny. He didn't see my face when I wrote it~=0A =0AErmi=
ne, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or =
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed v=
ert a lions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might=
 have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is t=
he beginning of knowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one c=
an change that. They can only assist you in denying who you are, but not in=
delibly reshape you to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A      Get a sneak peak a=
t messages with a handy reading pane with All new Yahoo! Mail: http://mrd.m=
ail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:38:06 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007
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Status: RO

>I made a little sneak prewiev with myself in front of the fountain at the
>Hermitage with my silver spangeled suit:
 >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig2-1.htm

Bjarne,
You look like you were born there as you fit in so well.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:43:03 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear
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Status: RO

Looks great, Elizabeth. Well done.
LynnD

On 9/15/07, Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> Hi everyone, thanks for the advice, I went shopping on Friday and ended up
> finding a cheap felt tricorn hat from a 'dollar store' type shop so I
> decided as the theme was pirates I would use it instead of investing time
> experimenting with a cap, I did achieve big hair but let it down later in
> the night as the weight was giving me a headache. I only got one photo of
> the completed ensemble, you can see it here
> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1095/1389185881_2bae00cb28.jpg (unfortunately
> my hair came out looking darker than it does in real life and blended in
> with the hat so it's hard to see the effect of my big hair)
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 17:07:27 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:  Bayreuth Event 2007
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Status: RO

Makes you want to do 18th Century, hey Richard? (Sigh)

When are you coming East?
Monica/ Catriona


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of R Harper
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 12:20 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] re: Bayreuth Event 2007


>I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to
>Bayreuth in South Germany.

<snip>

Bjarne, you look exquisite, as always.  I can't wait to see the rest of your
pictures!

Richard in MI

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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007
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Status: RO

Amazing, as always, Bjarne!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007


Dear list.
I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to Bayreuth
in South Germany. Night trains really isnt my cop of tea, and i slept very
bad. So i am a little tired.
Spended the weekend of my life with lots of beautifull and kind people
having a danse soiré friday evening in the house of Prinsesse Louise von
Bayern build about 1720.
It was with candle light. An unforgettable walk at the Hermitage at
Bayreuth, saturday afternoon, and following a performance with original
instruments at the Markgräffliche Opernhaus also early 18th century - the
opera of Henry Purcel "King Arthur"
My head is so full of unforgettable moments and sights with beautifull
dressed 18th century reenacters.
When i get more fresh tomorrow, i shall eddit all my pictures and post a
link to you,
I made a little sneak prewiev with myself in front of the fountain at the
Hermitage with my silver spangeled suit:
  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig2-1.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] chain of office for Elizabethan
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:06:10 -0700
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Status: RO

I would think that they must exist because the great chains still exist.
I've been privileged to see the Lady Mayor of Sheffield and the Lord Mayor
of Bath wearing their town's great chains.  The thing would be to locate a
picture of someone with their regalia on.

How about Sir Henry Lee, Elizabeth's Champion?

Regina
>

 I have not seen any Elizabethan men's
> portraits with them wearing a chain of office like we saw in the
> Tudor time
> period; only single chains with medallions hanging.  Does any one
> know of a
> portrait that would display what he is looking for or had this
> fashion just
> disappeared by Elizabeth's reign?
>
>
>
> Thanks--Diane
>
>

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Status: RO

>From my understanding, Livery collars were replaced by gold chains for
everyday wear which would sometimes have a pendant of some sort hanging from
it, like a miniature portrait or if say the person is of the Order of the
fleece, they would have a gold fleece/sheep pendant in the time of
Elizabeth's reign.
During ceremonies/formal functions of Orders the collar would be worn
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Schatzkammer_Wien_Collane_Orden_vom_Golde
nen_Vlies.jpg

Also, certain offices and Mayoral offices retained the collars.

After doing a little more browsing on the subject I found
(zoomable)
http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?locid=308&rNo=3

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Burghley_Garter_Robes.jpg

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Thomas_howard_suffolk.jpg

So from what I have found, unless he is claiming to be of an Order, he
really should not wear one and probably not while strolling around the
streets.

De
-----Original Message-----

I would think that they must exist because the great chains still exist.
I've been privileged to see the Lady Mayor of Sheffield and the Lord Mayor
of Bath wearing their town's great chains.  The thing would be to locate a
picture of someone with their regalia on.

How about Sir Henry Lee, Elizabeth's Champion?

Regina
>

 I have not seen any Elizabethan men's
> portraits with them wearing a chain of office like we saw in the
> Tudor time
> period; only single chains with medallions hanging.  Does any one
> know of a
> portrait that would display what he is looking for or had this
> fashion just
> disappeared by Elizabeth's reign?
>
>
>
> Thanks--Diane
>
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 13:27:11 +0200
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Status: RO

Some wonderfull professional photos has already ben uploaded to the web.
I know i have the permission to show you all, as great apreciaters of 
historical costumes:

http://root.cologne-digital-online.de/isabel/bayreuth2007/

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth pictures
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:09:02 -0400
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Thank you so much!

Please forgive my ignorance: what time period do the costumes=20
represent?  I am interested in the young lady in the Riding Habit,=20
since I also ride sidesaddle.

Thank you, again.

Susan
(NJ-USA)

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Sep 18, 2007, at 7:27 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Some wonderfull professional photos has already ben uploaded to the=20
> web.
> I know i have the permission to show you all, as great apreciaters of=20
> historical costumes:
>
> http://root.cologne-digital-online.de/isabel/bayreuth2007/
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

This would be Cecilias riding outfit you are thinking of, her husband is the 
tall slender person in the green and red suit.
Cecilias is black jacket - red skirt?
I think hers is about 1740. I remember she told me, she wears it buttoned 
because she has not made the waistcoat yeat.
In all the costumes are from about 1730 - 1790 so it is a wide range of 
costumes.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Data-Samtak" <pasovasz@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth pictures


Bjarne,

Thank you so much!

Please forgive my ignorance: what time period do the costumes
represent?  I am interested in the young lady in the Riding Habit,
since I also ride sidesaddle.

Thank you, again.

Susan
(NJ-USA)

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour



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Status: RO

At 04:27 AM 9/18/2007, you wrote:
>Some wonderfull professional photos has already ben uploaded to the web.
>I know i have the permission to show you all, as great apreciaters 
>of historical costumes:
>
>http://root.cologne-digital-online.de/isabel/bayreuth2007/
>
>Bjarne

Very nice!  You are very fortunate to have such wonderful venues for 
your events.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth pictures
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:05:46 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Sep 18, 2007, at 11:23 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> This would be Cecilias riding outfit you are thinking of, her husband=20
> is the tall slender person in the green and red suit.
> Cecilias is black jacket - red skirt?
> I think hers is about 1740. I remember she told me, she wears it=20
> buttoned because she has not made the waistcoat yeat.
> In all the costumes are from about 1730 - 1790 so it is a wide range=20
> of costumes.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan Data-Samtak"=20
> <pasovasz@aol.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth pictures
>
>
> Bjarne,
>
> Thank you so much!
>
> Please forgive my ignorance: what time period do the costumes
> represent?  I am interested in the young lady in the Riding Habit,
> since I also ride sidesaddle.
>
> Thank you, again.
>
> Susan
> (NJ-USA)
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark
> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:12:00 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] chain of office for Elizabethan
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Status: RO

> > portraits with them wearing a chain of office like we saw in the
> > Tudor time
> > period; only single chains with medallions hanging.  Does any one
> > know of a
> > portrait that would display what he is looking for or had this
> > fashion just
> > disappeared by Elizabeth's reign?

I just found this last night:
http://tinyurl.com/2emcwc
or the original link:
http://www.bonhams.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?sContinent=EUR&screen=lotdetailsNoFlash&iSaleItemNo=2435677&iSaleNo=11912

"Portrait of Sir Thomas Radcliffe, 3rd Earl of Sussex (1526/7-83) ,
three-quarter-length, in the robes, collar and George of the Order of
the Garter, holding the Lord Chamberlain's white rod"
"The present portrait can be counted among those that post-date his
appointment as Lord Chamberlain in 1572, since he is depicted here
holding the white rod of this office."


Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bayreuth event 2007
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Status: RO

Beautiful! I love the color. I'm looking forward to more pictures.
Sharon C.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Sharon Henderson
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 4:55 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bayreuth event 2007

*stares in awe*  That is just absolutely gorgeous, Bjarne--and you wear =
it
so well!!  Your work is always wonderful, the description of the event =
is
just fantastic--I can't wait to see the other pics!

Thank you for sharing your experiences!

Meli in the US
(Sharon)

----------------Bjarne wrote:

Dear list.
I just arrived home safely from a long and tiresome trainjourney to =
Bayreuth
in South Germany. Night trains really isnt my cop of tea, and i slept =
very
bad. So i am a little tired.
Spended the weekend of my life with lots of beautifull and kind people
having a danse soir=E9 friday evening in the house of Prinsesse Louise =
von
Bayern build about 1720.
It was with candle light. An unforgettable walk at the Hermitage at
Bayreuth, saturday afternoon, and following a performance with original
instruments at the Markgr=E4ffliche Opernhaus also early 18th century - =
the
opera of Henry Purcel "King Arthur"
My head is so full of unforgettable moments and sights with beautifull
dressed 18th century reenacters.
When i get more fresh tomorrow, i shall eddit all my pictures and post a
link to you, I made a little sneak prewiev with myself in front of the
fountain at the Hermitage with my silver spangeled suit:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig2-1.htm

Bjarne
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Status: RO

See you there Robin!!!  My check went into the mail yesterday for both
sessions!

Regina/Wanda

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:41 PM
> To: Historic Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon
>
>
>
> Information on my upcoming lecture day, Oct. 20, in Eugene, Oregon, is now
> online here:
>
> http://www.costumetalk.com/CTinfo/
>
> with details on my lectures here:
>
> http://costumetalk.com/CTinfo/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi
ew&id=15&Itemid=36

On Oct. 21, Tammie Dupuis ("The Renaissance Tailor") will be speaking.
Information on her lecture is on the same website.

Forward at will.

--Robin


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Status: RO


> See you there Robin!!! My check went into the mail yesterday for both
> sessions!

It'll be great to see you again, Wanda! (Truly, it amazes me when people co=
me to my lectures a *second* time.)

Will anyone else from h-cost be there?

Info at http://www.costumetalk.com .

--Robin


_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo=AE 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. It=92s ou=
r way of saying thanks for using Windows Live=99.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon
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> Will anyone else from h-cost be there? >>

I will!

Colleen
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From: jmdpease@att.net (Jane Pease)
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 03:30:13 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] Source for Busk
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I am in search of a 15 inch wooden busk.  Anyone know where I might find such a thing?

Thanks in advance.

Jane Pease
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:26:30 -0700
From: Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth pictures
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Status: RO

On 18 Sep 2007, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 04:27 AM 9/18/2007, you wrote:
> >Some wonderfull professional photos has already ben uploaded to the web.
> >I know i have the permission to show you all, as great apreciaters 
> >of historical costumes:
> >
> >http://root.cologne-digital-online.de/isabel/bayreuth2007/
> >
> >Bjarne
> 
> Very nice!  You are very fortunate to have such wonderful venues for 
> your events.

Indeed!  I am very jealous of all costumers in Europe.

I particularly love the candle-lit dinner.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Status: RO

What beautiful pictures! The young lady in light green looks particularly
exquisite.

I notice some of the gentlemen have moustaches or small beards. Is this correct
for the period? I once spent a year in Lausanne, Switzerland, where the local
patriotic hero, Major Davel, is always shown with a powdered wig and a small
moustache. I thought this odd, because I've never seen facial hair in 18th
century British portraits. Perhaps it was a Continental fashion?

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor
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Status: RO

http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=543

De

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Bayreuth pictures
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Status: RO

Dear Kate,
No you are absolutely correct, normally it was not the tone with moustache, 
but some of the military persons had.
Also a gentleman with a strange beard, he was a payed musician who wore a 
strange costume. But he played the cemballo wery well. He also had forgotten 
his knee stockings, so luckily i had some he could borrow.
Some prussian officers wore moustache, (think about Barry Lyndon?)
The pale green was indeed a dress i kept my eyes apon very long time, it was 
a mantua. I especially admired the back it was so beautifull.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:39 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Bayreuth pictures


> What beautiful pictures! The young lady in light green looks particularly
> exquisite.
>
> I notice some of the gentlemen have moustaches or small beards. Is this 
> correct
> for the period? I once spent a year in Lausanne, Switzerland, where the 
> local
> patriotic hero, Major Davel, is always shown with a powdered wig and a 
> small
> moustache. I thought this odd, because I've never seen facial hair in 18th
> century British portraits. Perhaps it was a Continental fashion?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780 men's embroidered waistcoat
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Status: RO

Thanks a lot for this!
It is clever, did you notice, they made an extra expansion on the right side 
for the buttons, so that the pattern wont be spoiled when closed together?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1780 men's embroidered waistcoat


> http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=543
>
> De
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Hi Robin! Unfortunately I can't come owing to a prior commitment, but I
hope Regina will let me read her notes! ;)

Much thanks to you and Tammie (in An Tir, Viscountess Laurellin) and the
organizers for this wonderful opportunity!

Arlys

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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:27:04 -0400
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for Busk
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Status: RO

Grannd Garb www.granndgarb.com have some. I've ordered from them
before and had excellent service.


On 9/18/07, Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:
> I am in search of a 15 inch wooden busk.  Anyone know where I might find such a thing?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jane Pease
> _______________________________________________
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>Makes you want to do 18th Century, hey Richard? (Sigh)

Heh....well, my costume interests *are* varied, as you well know.... ;-)  
Why not 18th century?

>When are you coming East?

Hmmm....probably not until the criminal housing market in MI recovers at 
least _somewhat_.
However, we are definitely considering Florence for next year....woohoo!

>Monica/ Catriona

Richard/Henry/Haamid/you name it!

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In a message dated 9/19/2007 9:44:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rharperny@hotmail.com writes:

However,  we are definitely considering Florence for next  year....woohoo!



*****************
 
 
Florence, SC? Don't get too excited! [I'm teasing, of  course]



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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Good morning,

In looking at this painting of Elizabeth Vernon I had a few questions
and wondered what other's thoughts were on some of the elements of the
lady's costume.

http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/htm/gallery2/paintings/countessofsoton.htm

In particular, I am wondering if the smooth white we see is a lining
of the embroidered jacket, or is that her smock that is laid open to
show the falling lace collar against the jacket?

and I'm guessing that construction of the embroidered jacket is
similar to Margaret Layton (or is it Laton?)'s jacket that is still in
the V&A and there's a portrait somewhere of her wearing said jacket.
This jacket is dated to 1620, and Margaret's portrait to a few years
later.  Elizabeth's portrait is dated to 1600.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style01b/objects/object5_2.html


And lastly, does anyone have leads as to what these jackets might have
looked like before the vogue for the polychrome embroidery as seen in
these paintings and artifacts that have all been dated to 1600 or
later?   I'm hoping to figure out what a lady in 1570-80 might have
worn.

alex
-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: Sara Snellings <morrghan92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Me Me Me! I've been looking forward to this since Fearga, Karis, and I were=
 driving home from your last lecture. I can't wait, I know I missed a lot t=
he first time around. =0A=0AMorrghan=0A(A lurker due to infant time demands=
.)=0A=0A=0A=0AWill anyone else from h-cost be there?=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=
=0A=0A      _______________________________________________________________=
_____________________=0ALuggage? GPS? Comic books? =0ACheck out fitting gif=
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:59:55 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780 men's embroidered waistcoat
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 9/19/2007 4:56:02 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

It is  clever, did you notice, they made an extra expansion on the right side 
for  the buttons, so that the pattern wont be spoiled when closed  together?



**************
 
Yes, I noticed that. We discussed this about a costume from "Jefferson in  
Paris" that had done the same thing. So maybe it was a starting trend late in  
the century.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

>
> And lastly, does anyone have leads as to what these jackets might have
> looked like before the vogue for the polychrome embroidery as seen in
> these paintings and artifacts that have all been dated to 1600 or
> later?   I'm hoping to figure out what a lady in 1570-80 might have
> worn.
>
> alex

There's two monochrome embroidered jackets mentioned on this page, if it 
helps http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/themaidstonejacket.html 
but ultimately I think jackets are a very late 16th century fashion and I'm 
not sure if they existed in the 1570s.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole  | Elizabeth Beaumont
Canberra, Australia  | Politarchopolis, Lochac
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

At 15:32 19/09/2007, you wrote:

>>And lastly, does anyone have leads as to what these jackets might have
>>looked like before the vogue for the polychrome embroidery as seen in
>>these paintings and artifacts that have all been dated to 1600 or
>>later?   I'm hoping to figure out what a lady in 1570-80 might have
>>worn.
>>
>>alex
>
>There's two monochrome embroidered jackets mentioned on this page, 
>if it helps 
>http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/themaidstonejacket.html 
>  but ultimately I think jackets are a very late 16th century 
>fashion and I'm not sure if they existed in the 1570s.
>Elizabeth


The "London" jacket at the Museum of London is dated 1610-15. The 
"Maidstone" jacket is dated, if I remember right, 1630. I think that 
any jacket earlier than them would have been pretty much the same 
shape, as that does not change in the embroidered jackets for up to 
60 years or so, depending on location. (In Denmark they appear in 
about 1660.) There are plain ones, both wadded and plain, in Holland, 
Flanders and the Low Countries throughout the 17th century. I just 
wonder if plain ones were used before 1600, and have simply not been 
recorded as they were considered to be "ordinary."

Suzi

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From: Robin Netherton <rbnetherton@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 12:27:32 -0500
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Status: RO


Alex wrote:
> In looking at this painting of Elizabeth Vernon I had a few questions
> and wondered what other's thoughts were on some of the elements of the
> lady's costume.
>
> http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/htm/gallery2/paintings/countessofsoton.ht=
m

This is not my own area so I won't try to answer, but I do want to note tha=
t Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, who is sometimes on this list, did a detailed stu=
dy of these jackets, including a point-by-point analysis of the Vernon port=
rait, in volume 2 of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. The article is called =
"The Matron Goes to the Masque: The Dual Identity of the English Embroidere=
d Jacket." I would strongly suggest you read this before you try to re-crea=
te anything from this portrait, because it's chock-full of theatrical and s=
ymbolic elements.

> and I'm guessing that construction of the embroidered jacket is
> similar to Margaret Layton (or is it Laton?)'s jacket that is still in
> the V&A and there's a portrait somewhere of her wearing said jacket.
> This jacket is dated to 1620, and Margaret's portrait to a few years
> later. Elizabeth's portrait is dated to 1600.

Danielle's article discusses (and shows a picture of) both the Laton jacket=
 and the portrait, and explains the apparent discrepancies between them.

> And lastly, does anyone have leads as to what these jackets might have
> looked like before the vogue for the polychrome embroidery as seen in
> these paintings and artifacts that have all been dated to 1600 or
> later? I'm hoping to figure out what a lady in 1570-80 might have
> worn.

Danielle examined about 100 portraits showing jackets and seven extant jack=
ets. 10 of the portraits were painted before 1600. She doesn't have a lot o=
f detail about them, but I think it's worth reading the article to get a se=
nse of their line of development.

Danielle may have more to say if she's reading this.

--Robin


_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Caf=
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1780 men's embroidered waistcoat
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:48:29 -0500
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Status: RO

No, I hadn't noticed. I came across this while looking for a shirt. I am
using the Simplicity Pirate pattern #4923
http://tinyurl.com/359l8g
to make a costume, maybe for Halloween and for sure, for 2008 Archon and
wished to adapt it to make it look more authentic then costumy. Thinking of
putting pockets into the jacket and maybe the vest.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks a lot for this!
It is clever, did you notice, they made an extra expansion on the right side
for the buttons, so that the pattern wont be spoiled when closed together?

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
> http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=543
>
> De


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Status: RO

otsisto wrote:
> No, I hadn't noticed. I came across this while looking for a shirt. I am
> using the Simplicity Pirate pattern #4923
> http://tinyurl.com/359l8g
> to make a costume, maybe for Halloween and for sure, for 2008 Archon and
> wished to adapt it to make it look more authentic then costumy. Thinking of
> putting pockets into the jacket and maybe the vest.
> 

If you have _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ there's a lot of very useful 
diagrams there.

What I found last year, doing the exact same thing is that (in addition 
to the faux pockets) the coat runs large (too long and too wide in back 
both), and there isn't nearly enough fabric in the skirts. And it needs 
lining. The waistcoat was ok out of the package. The shirt was ok except 
for the underarms where they attached a gusset piece. It fits fine, I 
made mine as-is, but historically it would have been a gusset. The front 
opening is really deep. Check it before you cut it. Mine almost ended up 
at my navel.

If you don't want to look like every other member of the Simplicity 
Pirate Fleet (and there's a lot of them out there) may I suggest you 
change the shape of the pocket flaps and cuffs.

My project diary: http://www.reddawn.net/costume/17thcentury.htm


Dawn



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Status: RO

>I am in search of a 15 inch wooden busk.  Anyone know where I
>might find such a thing?
A friend & I made mine in about 1 evening with a bandsaw & belt sander.
http://cinbarnes.googlepages.com/1600eleanorherbert    I didnt see any
any other sources, really.  If you want it carved, like most of the
extant 17th & 18c busks, it might take you longer.
The best costumes require the use of powertools. <grin>
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian costume collection
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 18:52:52 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Have you contacted any costume rental shops in Toronto?  I would think=20=

some of them would love to have your collection, which looks great to=20
me.

Sylrog

On Sep 17, 2007, at 6:31 AM, Kathy Page wrote:

>> Where are you?
>
>> Sylvia
>
> I am about an hour's drive west of Toronto, Ontario. But I'm happy to=20=

> ship to anywhere in the world. :-)
>
> I just realised that my soon-to-be ex had uploaded all of my portfolio=20=

> to his Picasa account, thinking I needed a copy. I had them in my=20
> drive, but this is a convenient mistake:
>  http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/KathySCostuming
> It's not sorted yet, and I don't currently have access to the account=20=

> to do any sorting. Any men's wear, children's wear or anything=20
> pre-1600 is not for sale. Anything else I will consider. Although I=20
> would really like to keep my hoop dress, the right price will sell it.=20=

> I can always make another one.
>
>> I am so sorry to hear that. Where do you live? I can paint/sew, etc.=20=

>> and
>> would be happy to help. I'm pretty good with tools, too. Comes from=20=

>> years as
>> a theatre tech.
>> For the costumes:
>> This was posted on Tribe
>
>> Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire <snip>
>
>> Sharon
>
> Hmmmmm.... I wonder if I called to offer my collection, we could come=20=

> to an arrangement.
>
> Thanks for the offer. If you were anywhere near me, I'd have you here=20=

> in a heartbeat. :-) I have so much to do, all little annoying things,=20=

> some need professionals. My SIL is a lighting engineer and interior=20
> designer that used to stage houses for realtors, so as far as that=20
> goes, I have a good consultant. We are having a grand time spending=20
> his money to fix the house he no longer lives in. ;-)
>
>
>> Have you heard the one about the woman whose husband and new=20
>> girlfriend/wife
>> wanted to move into her home, which she couldn't afford now he had=20
>> dumped
>> her? She put fresh shrimp in the hollow curtain rods and moved out.
>
> *L* Yes, I have heard it. I thought about pushing a chunk of roadkill=20=

> into the mattress, but I'd have to find a way of opening a seam, then=20=

> replacing it without being noticeable. I just thought my perfume would=20=

> be nauseating enough to him that he won't sleep well. This is the=20
> stuff that he said not long ago he liked because it reminded him of=20
> me. And incidentally, my mother bought me so m
> st going to spray, smear and powder that damned thing until it reeks,=20=

> then package it up in plastic, looking like I am being pleasant and=20
> efficient. It'll be too late by the time he gets it to his "cozy,=20
> furnished and convenient little basement apartment" that he'll be=20
> stuck with it. He can't afford to buy a new one now, anyway. The smell=20=

> will go away - eventually.
>
> Yes, I am evil!
>
> Kathy
> ~who's ex thinks my making comments in an email about cold beds is=20
> funny. He didn't see my face when I wrote it~
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a=20=

> rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
> It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge.
> Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can=20=

> only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you=20=

> to their own image.
>
>
>
>       Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane with All=20=

> new Yahoo! Mail: http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 19:16:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sheridan Alder <sadisticschoolmistress@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian costume collection
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hi:=0A =0AKathy, what size are the gowns and what prices are you thinking? =
=0A=0AI'm sorta interested in either the Victorian or 18th century gowns, e=
ven though I probably shouldn't be buying ANYTHING right now. I'm a size 14=
 for the forseeable future, although I have fantasies of dieting, but I'm 5=
'9".=0A=0ASheridan=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Kathy Page <=
caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>=0ATo: h-costume@indra.com=0ASent: Monday, Septem=
ber 17, 2007 8:31:16 AM=0ASubject: [h-cost] Re: Victorian costume collectio=
n=0A=0A=0A>Where are you?=0A=0A>Sylvia=0A=0AI am about an hour's drive west=
 of Toronto, Ontario. But I'm happy to ship to anywhere in the world. :-) =
=0A=0AI just realised that my soon-to-be ex had uploaded all of my portfoli=
o to his Picasa account, thinking I needed a copy. I had them in my drive, =
but this is a convenient mistake:=0Ahttp://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/Ka=
thySCostuming=0AIt's not sorted yet, and I don't currently have access to t=
he account to do any sorting. Any men's wear, children's wear or anything p=
re-1600 is not for sale. Anything else I will consider. Although I would re=
ally like to keep my hoop dress, the right price will sell it. I can always=
 make another one.=0A=0A>I am so sorry to hear that. Where do you live? I c=
an paint/sew, etc. and=0A>would be happy to help. I'm pretty good with tool=
s, too. Comes from years as=0A>a theatre tech.=0A>For the costumes:=0A>This=
 was posted on Tribe=0A=0A>Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire <snip>=
=0A=0A>Sharon=0A=0AHmmmmm.... I wonder if I called to offer my collection, =
we could come to an arrangement. =0A=0AThanks for the offer. If you were an=
ywhere near me, I'd have you here in a heartbeat. :-) I have so much to do,=
 all little annoying things, some need professionals. My SIL is a lighting =
engineer and interior designer that used to stage houses for realtors, so a=
s far as that goes, I have a good consultant. We are having a grand time sp=
ending his money to fix the house he no longer lives in. ;-) =0A=0A=0A>Have=
 you heard the one about the woman whose husband and new girlfriend/wife=0A=
>wanted to move into her home, which she couldn't afford now he had dumped=
=0A>her? She put fresh shrimp in the hollow curtain rods and moved out. =0A=
=0A*L* Yes, I have heard it. I thought about pushing a chunk of roadkill in=
to the mattress, but I'd have to find a way of opening a seam, then replaci=
ng it without being noticeable. I just thought my perfume would be nauseati=
ng enough to him that he won't sleep well. This is the stuff that he said n=
ot long ago he liked because it reminded him of me. And incidentally, my mo=
ther bought me so much of it, I could bathe in the lotion and bottles of pe=
rfume. I'm just going to spray, smear and powder that damned thing until it=
 reeks, then package it up in plastic, looking like I am being pleasant and=
 efficient. It'll be too late by the time he gets it to his "cozy, furnishe=
d and convenient little basement apartment" that he'll be stuck with it. He=
 can't afford to buy a new one now, anyway. The smell will go away - eventu=
ally.=0A=0AYes, I am evil!=0A=0AKathy=0A~who's ex thinks my making comments=
 in an email about cold beds is funny. He didn't see my face when I wrote i=
t~=0A=0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder wit=
h a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose=
 Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be w=
ho you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Ques=
tioning is the beginning of knowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, =
and no one can change that. They can only assist you in denying who you are=
, but not indelibly reshape you to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A      Get a =
sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane with All new Yahoo! Mail: =
http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A___________________________=
____________________=0Ah-costume mailing list=0Ah-costume@mail.indra.com=0A=
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=0A=0A=0A      Ask a questi=
on on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and =
share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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From: Sheridan Alder <sadisticschoolmistress@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Good late 1820's patterns -an anyone recommend ?
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Status: RO

Greetings everyone:=0A=0ACan anyone recommend a c. 1820's pattern? - quick =
delivery, fairly accurate, instructions that are not to hard to follow, yad=
da, yadda.=0A=0AI usually draft my own patterns, but I'm tired of messing a=
round and tweaking designs.=0A=0AThe usual story - last minute project idea=
, etc.=0A=0ASheridan Alder=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam. See how smar=
t SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail a=
t http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume brag books online
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Status: RO

On 11 Sep 2007, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> I suppose the gallery section of my website would count as one (brag book  
> that is).

Likewise, the closest I have is a couple of web pages:

http://goblinrevolution.org/costumes/navy/
http://goblinrevolution.org/costumes/miles/vorkosigan_house/index.html

Oh, and the one for the baby:

http://goblinrevolution.org/costumes/miles/vorbaby/index.html

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1780 men's embroidered waistcoat
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:47:04 -0500
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Status: RO

Thank you.
Don't have the book.
Good to know about size as I was thinking of going up a size and making it a
2X. I know I will need to fit it and I have a short waist and it being for
men will probably be for long waist.
I came across this regency shirt that I may use for a wee bit of adaptation.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_405.htm
I was thinking of removing the extra piece on the sleeve and putting a
"real" gusset in as I tend to have problems with built in gussets.
Found out that I need to go to JoAnn's to get more of the linen/rayon
material as I am shy of 1yd.
I have been looking at coats like these to get  rough ideas to make it look
different.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_251.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Troost_Music_lover.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Bowdoin.jpg
The material is gold striped brocade and the lining is a polished cotton
rust which will also be used for the pants. I have two coordinating brocades
that I plan to make the long and the short vest. I purchased at the NASCFI
con a brown felted hat that I need to trim and edge, then tack the brim into
place.
Once I complete the above I have two outfits based off of Simplicity #3677
http://tinyurl.com/ysalao
CFG, both fantasy, one forest fairy, the other space pirate. The latter will
be a slight pain as the shirt will be of a light weight sheer material that
likes to rave. :P
Again, that you for your site.
De


-----Original Message-----
If you have _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ there's a lot of very useful diagrams
there.
What I found last year, doing the exact same thing is that (in addition to
the faux pockets) the coat runs large (too long and too wide in back both),
and there isn't nearly enough fabric in the skirts. And it needs lining. The
waistcoat was ok out of the package. The shirt was ok except for the
underarms where they attached a gusset piece. It fits fine, I made mine
as-is, but historically it would have been a gusset. The front opening is
really deep. Check it before you cut it. Mine almost ended up at my navel.
If you don't want to look like every other member of the Simplicity Pirate
Fleet (and there's a lot of them out there) may I suggest you change the
shape of the pocket flaps and cuffs.
My project diary: http://www.reddawn.net/costume/17thcentury.htm


Dawn


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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric stores near Luray Virginia
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Status: RO

Hi,

Thanx for the information!
I send it to her and I can't wait to hear her story's from her vakation 
there.

Greetings,
       Deredere

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Deredere,
>
> There are lots of nice old Victorian/Edwardian homes in the small 
> towns in VA.  I love driving through the small towns and would love to 
> live in one of these towns one day.  I haven't been to Luray in 
> years.  At that time it wasn't a very large town.  Harrisonburg is a 
> mecca of antique stores.  I can't recall the name of the highway that 
> goes through Harrisburg but I have never seen so many antique stores 
> as there are on it.  This highway was featured on HGTV one year for 
> its large amount antique stores.  I don't know if it is apple season 
> by the 25th but if it is, make sure your friend brings you some.  We 
> do the orchards closer to Charlottesville in the Blue Ridge. I know 
> next weekend in Richmond starts the German fests and they go on for a 
> month.
>
> Another must see at Luray Caverns is to see the natural wedding 
> chapel.  I would love to be there when an actual wedding is talking 
> place.  Your friend might want to check the VA Tourist Dept.  This 
> time of year, so many events are occurring every weekend.
>
> My son's family goes to Luray and camps around this time of year.  I 
> will ask them about the sites and stores in the area.
>
> If your friend goes into the DC metro, G Street fabrics is always a must!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Source for Busk
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Status: RO

My favorite quickie busk is to use a plain old paint stick from Sherwin 
Williams! I shorten it as needed, round the bottom edge and Voila! The wood 
is usually hard wood with some "bendability" for comfort when in use.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] re: Source for Busk


> >I am in search of a 15 inch wooden busk.  Anyone know where I
>>might find such a thing?
> A friend & I made mine in about 1 evening with a bandsaw & belt sander.
> http://cinbarnes.googlepages.com/1600eleanorherbert    I didnt see any
> any other sources, really.  If you want it carved, like most of the
> extant 17th & 18c busks, it might take you longer.
> The best costumes require the use of powertools. <grin>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Status: RO


> > >Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a > >go=
od candidate for fulling? My experiments so far have had wildly > >differen=
t results (the one which I bought marked 100% wool -a > >suiting- shrank al=
most not at all), the other was a blanket from > >Value Village (which I di=
d the burn test on the sly in the store) > >shrank about the equivalent of =
my knitting with a worsted > >yarn. Thanks for any input.> >> >Laurie> > Wo=
rsted wool suiting is unlikely to full very much, if at all; it's > general=
ly a smooth, firmly woven, somewhat shiny fabric made of > worsted-spun woo=
l. If something is fairly fluffy (meaning it's made > of a woolen-spun yarn=
) and not firmly woven, like the blanket, it > will probably full to some e=
xtent (sometimes to a great extent).> > Worsted and woolen are technical te=
rms in spinning that define the > way the wool is prepared and spun (the us=
e of "worsted" as a size of > yarn is a modern misnomer). Worsted yarns are=
 very firm and smooth, > with uniform wool fiber lengths and little air inc=
orporated into the > thread; the wool fibers are prepared by combing. Woole=
n yarns are > more open and airy than worsted, and have a mix of wool fiber=
 > lengths; the wool fibers are prepared by carding.> > > Joan Jurancich> j=
oanmj@surewest.net >=20
Thank you, Joan.  "Fairly fluffy" it is then. :)
=20
Laurie
_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?=A0 Take a break and play Seekadoo!
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

So is there somewhere I can get a look at this article without buying
the book?  With a cut of hours, my budget has gotten really tight, and
I don't know how long it's going to last...

I was hoping I could make a jacket from some white, monochrome
embroidered silk  I already have in my stash.  I'm already making most
of the other elements from other sources, but I wanted to do a
painting posed like this one, to contrast the formal portrait I also
will be doing.  It's all part of a display to show the pieces and
parts of the ensemble in use, while allowing judges and other
interested parties to look over and inside the clothing and other
items.

thanks
alex

On 9/19/07, Robin Netherton <rbnetherton@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Alex wrote:
>
> > http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/htm/gallery2/paintings/countessofsoton.htm
>
> This is not my own area so I won't try to answer, but I do want to note that Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, who is sometimes on this list, did a detailed study of these jackets, including a point-by-point analysis of the Vernon portrait, in volume 2 of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. The article is called "The Matron Goes to the Masque: The Dual Identity of the English Embroidered Jacket." I would strongly suggest you read this before you try to re-create anything from this portrait, because it's chock-full of theatrical and symbolic elements.
>
(SNIPPED)
> Danielle examined about 100 portraits showing jackets and seven extant jackets. 10 of the portraits were painted before 1600. She doesn't have a lot of detail about them, but I think it's worth reading the article to get a sense of their line of development.
>
> Danielle may have more to say if she's reading this.
>
> --Robin
>
>

-- 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Alexandria Doyle wrote:

>So is there somewhere I can get a look at this article without buying
>the book?  With a cut of hours, my budget has gotten really tight, and
>I don't know how long it's going to last...

Do you have a local library that does inter-library loan?

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Status: RO

I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery
jackets Alex but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth
Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket.  The
Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here:
http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewid&post_id=8

It's been a lot of fun to follow and I hope to make one of the January
sessions.
Catherine


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Status: RO


> Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>
>>So is there somewhere I can get a look at this article without buying
>>the book?

Alex, I saw Kate's reply to your message but not your original message, and=
 I don't have your e-dress. Contact me directly at robin-at-netherton-dot-n=
et and I'll help you work something out.

--Robin


_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 12:27:10 -0400
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Status: RO


Robin, I know that on the B&B web site, they show the list of papers  
included in each volume, is there a "real" Table of Contents (with  
page numbers) listed anywhere to facilitate ILLing papers from the  
different volumes?

Thanks!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO


> Robin, I know that on the B&B web site, they show the list of papers
> included in each volume, is there a "real" Table of Contents (with
> page numbers) listed anywhere to facilitate ILLing papers from the
> different volumes?

Not online that I know of, but if your library needs the page numbers, I'll=
 be happy to send you (or anyone else who needs it) a copy of the Contents =
pages from the three published volumes.

--Robin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume brag books online
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Status: RO


On Sep 19, 2007, at 11:55 PM, Chris Bertani wrote:
>
> Likewise, the closest I have is a couple of web pages:
>
> http://goblinrevolution.org/costumes/navy/


That jacket is fantastic!  Lovely work.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

>I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery
>jackets Alex but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth
>Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket.  The
>Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here:
>http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewid&post_id=8

Catherine,
What a great blog!  Stuffed full of cool info & delicious detail pics.
(Like spangles & silver wrapped silk threads.) Thanks so much for the
pointer. A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The
jacket in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 14:28:51 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

These embroidered jackets aren't exclusive to England--I've seen a
couple of reproduced paintings(one in a book of Dutch cooking)showing a
Dutch upper-class housewife also in the same style of jacket.

Fashion in Detail, volume 1 has a couple of details in jackets done all
in black thread. One is impressive in the detail, including shading in
the embroidery work, but is literally disappearing as the black mordant
in the dye has destroyed much of the threadwork.

There is also a lady's smock all done in cross-stitch in original deep
pink silks in simple, but effective motifs.  It is still an amazing
amount of work.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 1:18 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets

>I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery=20
>jackets Alex but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth=20
>Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket.  The=20
>Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here:
>http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=3Dviewid&post_id=3D8

Catherine,
What a great blog!  Stuffed full of cool info & delicious detail pics.
(Like spangles & silver wrapped silk threads.) Thanks so much for the
pointer. A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The jacket
in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

I am continuing my retirement by creating historical costumes in minature 
for a standing line of willing, naked dolls.  Queen Maude (of Norway 
circa1906-1938) can bee seen in Doll Craft/Costuming, issue for November 
2007, along with Queen  MarieAntoinette.  Have also been having a wonderful 
time recreating for Maude from the new Poiret catalogue from the Met. (Also 
the "Wardrobe of Queen Maude of Norway")

The latest project is trying to evoke the Holbein portrait of Elizabeth 
I,( Kestner Gibson Girl Repro).  All goes well; have been leaning heavily on 
Hunnisett for the gown;(magically, the patterns of her books are just the 
size for the doll, so I only need to calculate skirt yardage.)  But for the 
French hood...Would the veil on the back have been Black or would there have 
been another color suggested for a young girlof 13 yrs.?  And, would this 
have been velvet as is suggested as the right fabric for the period?

Next in line is Eleanor of Toledo.  Got a marvelous fabric for the Branzino 
portrait on line last week. I will be using a lovely parian repro of the 
Grape Lady for that model.  Her face and stance is so placid and partrician!

Kathleen 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

  A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The
> jacket in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18.
> 

However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an 
embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread 
instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I 
remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. 
Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or 
online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it 
was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made 
for a 12 year old girl.



Dawn

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO


--- LLOYD MITCHELL <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> But for the 
> French hood...Would the veil on the back have been
> Black or would there have 
> been another color suggested for a young girlof 13
> yrs.?  And, would this 
> have been velvet as is suggested as the right fabric
> for the period?



The veil is almost always black, unless it is a
patterned bag instead of a veil. And while black
velvet is an option, I've been using black taffeta,
and for a doll taffeta or another black silk might
drape better at a smaller size than even silk/rayon
velvet.

Here's an image with a patterned bag
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1520/YoungGirlAstrInst.html

However, looking at the online detailed image of
Elizabeth as Princess, I would have to say it is a
black veil, as I can see a subtle difference in the
dark colors where the veil would be.

Have fun, and I hope you share photos of your work
when you are done with Elizabeth!

Kimiko




       
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones?  The Boston MFA
seems to have several in their collection.

I'd love for this one you mention to have been an earlier version,
perhaps something Elizabeth might have worn as a child or young
princess, just so I can see if there was a progress in style or cut.

(sigh) Wishful thinking, that's all
alex


On 9/21/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>   A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The
> > jacket in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18.
> >
>
> However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
> embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
> instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I
> remember seeing it several times when I was a student there.
> Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or
> online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it
> was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made
> for a 12 year old girl.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:26:58 -0400
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Status: RO

Definitely black.  In looking at hundreds of portraits and text  
references from the 16th c., I came across only a very very few  
images and references to hoods of another color.  The bags that  
Kimiko mentioned are only seen on portraits of girls, and generally  
in France.  The young Elizabeth would have been wearing a black  
velvet or silk hood, possibly with sewn-down knife pleats down the  
back.  The fall of the hood should be flat, narrow (the width of the  
head), and rounded at the bottom.  Many theatrical patterns have a  
flared veil in the back in the shape of a half-circle or similar, but  
there is no evidence for this shape that I've found.

As Kimiko suggests, velvet may not work well in doll scale, so a nice  
silk or silk-like fabric (like taffeta) might serve you better.

Melanie Schuessler



On Sep 21, 2007, at 3:27 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> I am continuing my retirement by creating historical costumes in  
> minature for a standing line of willing, naked dolls.  Queen Maude  
> (of Norway circa1906-1938) can bee seen in Doll Craft/Costuming,  
> issue for November 2007, along with Queen  MarieAntoinette.  Have  
> also been having a wonderful time recreating for Maude from the new  
> Poiret catalogue from the Met. (Also the "Wardrobe of Queen Maude  
> of Norway")
>
> The latest project is trying to evoke the Holbein portrait of  
> Elizabeth I,( Kestner Gibson Girl Repro).  All goes well; have been  
> leaning heavily on Hunnisett for the gown;(magically, the patterns  
> of her books are just the size for the doll, so I only need to  
> calculate skirt yardage.)  But for the French hood...Would the veil  
> on the back have been Black or would there have been another color  
> suggested for a young girlof 13 yrs.?  And, would this have been  
> velvet as is suggested as the right fabric for the period?
>
> Next in line is Eleanor of Toledo.  Got a marvelous fabric for the  
> Branzino portrait on line last week. I will be using a lovely  
> parian repro of the Grape Lady for that model.  Her face and stance  
> is so placid and partrician!
>
> Kathleen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

Definitely black for the veil of the hood. The much praised Tudor
Costuming book has scale patterns for several versions of the French
hood that will have to be sized up for your doll, probably, although the
patterns should be fairly close if the bodice patterns in Hunnisett are
the correct size for your doll.

I'm thinking of a 16th-early 17th century costume for a 12" tall girl
doll, Agnes Dreary, from the Tonner Company, that hopefully will arrive
within the month. I see lots of narrow wire and persnickedy pattern
pieces in my future

Even silk velvet will probably not drape properly for a French Hood, but
I haven't tried draping it on the bias yet on a similar doll(same body,
but different head). Black silk might be better I think on a doll as
long as the silk is opaque and not sheer. Silk velvet could also pull
back more than a lighter weight. You might want to tack and drape
different black fabrics before committing to the final fabric(I made a
porcelain doll about seven years ago and used a very incorrect black
lace on this 25" lady as silk dupioni kept pulling the top of the hood
back and down. I had wired the shape, had three layers of fabric(two
layers of calico + top fabric)and flat backed carbochon "gems" and
"pearls" fused to the gold braid that stood in for the metal worked
frame of the real French Hoods. (Should have bought the whole reel of it
at the time as it appeared more metal than braid on a doll, especially).
I had to make up the whole pattern and it looked much better than the
"Marie Stuart" hood pattern I'd bought for a similar sized doll, once
done, but I wish now I'd had "Tudor Costuming" then.

There used to be fabrics that could pass for Tudor and Rennaissance era
fabrics in stores like JoAnns and Hancock Fabrics for people, but dolls
below a certain size are almost impossible to shop for unless you are
willing to embellish a base natural fiber fabric, like silk or wool,
that are now very hard to find without spandex, nylon or a metallic that
throws the authenticity off badly.

Good luck on your project!

Cindy Abel

Thanks for the heads up on the Queen Maude doll you dressed--I might be
able to still get a Nov issue from the only bookstore in Omaha that
still carries it.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 2:27 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I

I am continuing my retirement by creating historical costumes in
minature for a standing line of willing, naked dolls.  Queen Maude (of
Norway
circa1906-1938) can bee seen in Doll Craft/Costuming, issue for November
2007, along with Queen  MarieAntoinette.  Have also been having a
wonderful time recreating for Maude from the new Poiret catalogue from
the Met. (Also the "Wardrobe of Queen Maude of Norway")

The latest project is trying to evoke the Holbein portrait of Elizabeth
I,( Kestner Gibson Girl Repro).  All goes well; have been leaning
heavily on Hunnisett for the gown;(magically, the patterns of her books
are just the size for the doll, so I only need to calculate skirt
yardage.)  But for the French hood...Would the veil on the back have
been Black or would there have been another color suggested for a young
girlof 13 yrs.?  And, would this have been velvet as is suggested as the
right fabric for the period?

Next in line is Eleanor of Toledo.  Got a marvelous fabric for the
Branzino portrait on line last week. I will be using a lovely parian
repro of the Grape Lady for that model.  Her face and stance is so
placid and partrician!

Kathleen=20

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h-costume mailing list
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Alexandria Doyle wrote:
> Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones?  The Boston MFA
> seems to have several in their collection.
> 
> I'd love for this one you mention to have been an earlier version,
> perhaps something Elizabeth might have worn as a child or young
> princess, just so I can see if there was a progress in style or cut.
> 
> (sigh) Wishful thinking, that's all

I remember it being white linen, woven and not knit. It was a late 
1500's style, I don't remember too much else about it, other than all 
the metallic embroidery. There may have been metal lace. I've been 
searching the MFA website, but have not found it in the online 
collection yet.

I'm surprised Janet Arnold didn't find it when doing her book on 
Elizabeth's clothing.


Dawn



> alex
> 
> 
> On 9/21/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>>   A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The
>>> jacket in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18.
>>>
>> However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
>> embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
>> instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I
>> remember seeing it several times when I was a student there.
>> Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or
>> online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it
>> was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made
>> for a 12 year old girl.
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

I've been working on historical type dolls for a couple of years now,
and I found the best place to get quality fabric for their gowns has
been the local thrift store.  A blouse of silk, a skirt of wool,
sometimes for as little as a dollar, with just enough fabric to make
the doll clothes, a good deal.

Sometimes the silk is too light weight, so I've lined it typically
with linen to give the hand the gowns need without being too much.

alex


> There used to be fabrics that could pass for Tudor and Rennaissance era
> fabrics in stores like JoAnns and Hancock Fabrics for people, but dolls
> below a certain size are almost impossible to shop for unless you are
> willing to embellish a base natural fiber fabric, like silk or wool,
> that are now very hard to find without spandex, nylon or a metallic that
> throws the authenticity off badly.
>
> Good luck on your project!
>
> Cindy Abel

-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

What you do sometimes get with very young girls is just the hood with no 
fall at the back.  It starts with hennins, where there are a few small 
girls wearing the dark front piece and no steeple.  It certainly carries 
on to English hoods, not sure of sources for French.  All my books are 
in boxes just now!

Jean

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> Definitely black.  In looking at hundreds of portraits and text 
> references from the 16th c., I came across only a very very few images 
> and references to hoods of another color.  The bags that Kimiko 
> mentioned are only seen on portraits of girls, and generally in 
> France.  The young Elizabeth would have been wearing a black velvet or 
> silk hood, possibly with sewn-down knife pleats down the back.  The 
> fall of the hood should be flat, narrow (the width of the head), and 
> rounded at the bottom.  Many theatrical patterns have a flared veil in 
> the back in the shape of a half-circle or similar, but there is no 
> evidence for this shape that I've found.
>
> As Kimiko suggests, velvet may not work well in doll scale, so a nice 
> silk or silk-like fabric (like taffeta) might serve you better.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2007, at 3:27 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> I am continuing my retirement by creating historical costumes in 
>> minature for a standing line of willing, naked dolls.  Queen Maude 
>> (of Norway circa1906-1938) can bee seen in Doll Craft/Costuming, 
>> issue for November 2007, along with Queen  MarieAntoinette.  Have 
>> also been having a wonderful time recreating for Maude from the new 
>> Poiret catalogue from the Met. (Also the "Wardrobe of Queen Maude of 
>> Norway")
>>
>> The latest project is trying to evoke the Holbein portrait of 
>> Elizabeth I,( Kestner Gibson Girl Repro).  All goes well; have been 
>> leaning heavily on Hunnisett for the gown;(magically, the patterns of 
>> her books are just the size for the doll, so I only need to calculate 
>> skirt yardage.)  But for the French hood...Would the veil on the back 
>> have been Black or would there have been another color suggested for 
>> a young girlof 13 yrs.?  And, would this have been velvet as is 
>> suggested as the right fabric for the period?
>>
>> Next in line is Eleanor of Toledo.  Got a marvelous fabric for the 
>> Branzino portrait on line last week. I will be using a lovely parian 
>> repro of the Grape Lady for that model.  Her face and stance is so 
>> placid and partrician!
>>
>> Kathleen
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets 
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Status: RO



>However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an 
>embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread 
>instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I 
>remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. 
>Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or 
>online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it 
>was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made 
>for a 12 year old girl.



>Dawn



I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: "History of
Costume" from 1965. Including a pattern diagram.
But I may be remembering totally wrong of course.

/Eva


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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:39:18 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayreuth event 2007
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Dear Bjarne,
  Sally and I have just had the time to go through the pictures of the Bayreuth Event you were lucky enough to be able to attend. [You do recall making the embroidered red-satin belt pouch for her, with the 3 silver lions rampant?  When she wears it at SCA events in the UK, it always attracts attention from ladies.]
  What a wonderful weekend iBayreuth must have been! And how marvellous that it could be held on such a wonderful Site! The clothing looks incredible - and you must all have had the wonderful "I've slipped back in Time" feeling for most of the weekend, too.
   Your silver suit looks so "right" - like original clothing miraculously preserved in a Museum and loaned-out just for the weekend - I can't praise the "look" highly enough.
  Pictures such as these could probably inspire my wife and I to think about "changing Period" to the 18th C. - if there was an 18th C Re-enactment Group anywhere close to us. Alas, Jersey is such a small island; and the travel costs are so high----! We do have one 18th C group in Jersey - the "Royal Militia of The Island of Jersey" - inspired by the 1781 unsuccessful invasion by French mercenaries - but they mainly concentrate on the military aspects of things, and I've only seen a few ladies involved, dressed as soldiers' wives and camp-followers; - which hardly gives an incentive for re-creating "high-Society" 18th C. dress.
  Our 25yr-old grand-daughter fell in love with 18thC Costume through seeing the Cinderella Movie - and I have sent her the URL of the Bayreuth event pictures so that she can see those "mouth-watering clothes" and be inspired by them as well.
   
  Best wishes - 
   
  Julian Wilson.


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:11:55 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's  
_Elizabethan Embroidery_.  It's plate 22B.  "The jacket or doublet  
illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by  
Elizabeth Day McCormick.  It comes from Kimberley in Norfolk where  
Queen Elizabeth stayed in August 1578 with Sir Roger Woodhouse (who  
was knighted at the time) on her way from Blickling to Cambridge. ...  
It is embroidered in gold and silver with spangles and is trimmed  
with gold lace.  The design of daffodils is very unusual and it is in  
brilliant condition.  Remodelled in James I's reign, it has recently  
been restored to original form." (p. 84)

If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to  
its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578.  It  
looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip  
godets, etc.

Plate 22A is also purportedly associated with Queen Elizabeth, though  
the styling is a bit odd.  It's a cloth-of-silver bodice with  
relatively narrow sleeves and a V in the neckline.  "Pl. 22A shows  
the famous Devereux heirloom belonging to Viscount Hereford.  This  
bodice with sleeves is extremely richly embroidered on a silver  
ground, the floral pattern being entirely worked in gold and silver  
thread and silks, mostly in tent, gobelin, dot, buttonhole, and  
detached buttonhole stitches.  It is the kind of embroidery which was  
used for the finest of the sweet bags, as we have already seen, and  
as a garment to wear, this bodice seems almost unbelievably ornate.   
The design is made up of roses, peascods (showing their seeds),  
forget-me-nots, tulips, cornflowers, columbine, iris, and pansy, the  
flowers all intermingled with snakes, birds, caterpillars and  
butterflies.  The floral tendrils are worked as gold chains in chain  
stitch with a certain amount of gold bullion and gold wire.   
Tradition relates that when the Earl of Essex was in the Tower  
awaiting execution this bodice was sent by his mother, the Countess  
of Leicester, to the Queen." (p. 83)

Melanie Schuessler


On Sep 21, 2007, at 6:28 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>> Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones?  The Boston  
>> MFA
>> seems to have several in their collection.
>> I'd love for this one you mention to have been an earlier version,
>> perhaps something Elizabeth might have worn as a child or young
>> princess, just so I can see if there was a progress in style or cut.
>> (sigh) Wishful thinking, that's all
>
> I remember it being white linen, woven and not knit. It was a late  
> 1500's style, I don't remember too much else about it, other than  
> all the metallic embroidery. There may have been metal lace. I've  
> been searching the MFA website, but have not found it in the online  
> collection yet.
>
> I'm surprised Janet Arnold didn't find it when doing her book on  
> Elizabeth's clothing.
>
>
> Dawn
>


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets 
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:15:30 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Eva,

You are correct!  I didn't remember that one, but there it is.  And a  
pattern as well with some interesting notes on construction.

Good catch,
Melanie


On Sep 22, 2007, at 2:23 AM, Eva Andersson wrote:

>
>
>> However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
>> embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
>> instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I
>> remember seeing it several times when I was a student there.
>> Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or
>> online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it
>> was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it  
>> was made
>> for a 12 year old girl.
>
>
>
>> Dawn
>
>
>
> I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: "History of
> Costume" from 1965. Including a pattern diagram.
> But I may be remembering totally wrong of course.
>
> /Eva
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

Quoting Eva Andersson <eva.andersson@comhem.se>:

> Dawn said:

>> However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
>> embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
>> instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I
>> remember seeing it several times when I was a student there.
>> Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or
>> online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it
>> was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made
>> for a 12 year old girl.
>
> I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: "History of
> Costume" from 1965. Including a pattern diagram.
> But I may be remembering totally wrong of course.
>

Blanche calls it a doublet.  Pattern #4, page 543.  Figure #334 -- =20
only shows the back.  "Courtesy the "Elizabeth Day McCormick =20
Collection") -- no other accession/item number.

Text: "The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is the proud possessor of the =20
golden doublet presented to Elizabeth about 1578 (Fig. 334 and Draft =20
4).  The fabric of the doublet is fine, firm white linen, obviously =20
from the loom of a superior weaver.  The surface is covered with gold =20
and silver embroidery in an endless scroll design enclosing a stylized =20
flower.  The background is thiclky sewed with minute gold sequins.  =20
Gold lace finishes the lower edge.  The doublet is breathtaking in its =20
gleaming splendor and awe-inspiring in its historical implications.  =20
Almost 400 years old, it is in near-perfect condition, a real =20
sixteenth-century masterpiece.  Actual measurements of the doublet =20
indicate that the queen was a small person but her grand manner left =20
no such impression." (p. 315).

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume 1820's pattern
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Status: RO

In a message dated 9/20/07 3:01:25 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Greetings everyone:
> 
> Can anyone recommend a c. 1820's pattern? - quick delivery, fairly accurate, 
> instructions that are not to hard to follow, yadda, yadda.
> 
> I usually draft my own patterns, but I'm tired of messing around and 
> tweaking designs.
> 
> The usual story - last minute project idea, etc.
> 
> Sheridan Alder
> 
> Hi Sherian, Tough call. The 1820's seems to be in that metamorphosing era 
between one easily recognised silhouette and the next. A good pattern is Janet 
Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 1. Pelisse 1818-23 Gloucester Museum (Sigh. I know 
you don't want to be draughting up patterns. Just thought I'd point this out). 
NEXT . Try looking at La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe. This is not a cheap 
pattern but you do get the whole wardrobe. You will still need to do some 
tweaking. May be lower the waist a tad and perhaps put a little more gore in to 
the skirts. (Check out the Arnold to keep the proportions on bodice and skirt)  
Add extra petticoats with frills at the bottom to surgest the widening skirt.  
                                          To review this pattern on line see 
http://www.songsmyth.com/patternsgowns.html There are a lot of other regency 
patterns at this site.                                                          
                       Also take a look at  
http:www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/LaModeBagatelle.htm To buy on line go to http://www.sewingcentral.com  
Click on patterns, then click on Regency, scroll down to La Mode Bagatelle.      
                                                                         It 
is also available at http://www.com./clothier/bagatelle/regency.jsp
   Hope this helps. Regards Joy
   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

Susan Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Eva Andersson <eva.andersson@comhem.se>:

>>
>> I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: "History of
>> Costume" from 1965. Including a pattern diagram.
>> But I may be remembering totally wrong of course.
>>
> 
> Blanche calls it a doublet.  Pattern #4, page 543.  Figure #334 -- only 
> shows the back.  "Courtesy the "Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection") -- 
> no other accession/item number.

I finally found it on the web site:

http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=116779&coll_keywords=woman%27s&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=english&coll_classification=Costumes&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=2&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=51

Accession number: 43.243


Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see 
how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615. 
I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in 1603.



Dawn
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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 12:06:18 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

Thank you for posting this! I have never seen this piece.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 11:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets


Susan Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Eva Andersson <eva.andersson@comhem.se>:

>>
>> I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: "History of
>> Costume" from 1965. Including a pattern diagram.
>> But I may be remembering totally wrong of course.
>>
>
> Blanche calls it a doublet.  Pattern #4, page 543.  Figure #334 -- only
> shows the back.  "Courtesy the "Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection") --
> no other accession/item number.

I finally found it on the web site:

http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=116779&coll_ke
ywords=woman%27s&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_me
dium=&coll_culture=english&coll_classification=Costumes&coll_credit=&coll_pr
ovenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=2&coll_sor
t_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=51

Accession number: 43.243


Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see
how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615.
I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in 1603.



Dawn
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

On 9/22/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like the one shown in Fashion in Detail, 17th & 18thc, look for
> the polychrome embroidery jacket 1610 with the silver lace, silver
> spangles & silver braid p16.  It's in the V&A not the MFA. Same book,
> a less fitted polychrome embroidery jacket on p24.  Much more casual
> in fit & style.
>
> This latter one is what I would expect for a dressing jacket or a bed
> jacket, where the previous looks too fitted. I would expect the first
> in one  in Fashion in Detail to be used as an "at home". Pure
> speculation.

Same book, Fashion in Detail, 4 more jackets (with color pics of all)
Black embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150
Red embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150
Another with black embroidery on white linen 1620s on p150
Polychrome embroidery and silver braid 1620s p148
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

>Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>> Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones?  The Boston MFA
>> seems to have several in their collection.
Dawn:
>I remember it being white linen, woven and not knit. It was a late
>1500's style, I don't remember too much else about it, other than all
>the metallic embroidery. There may have been metal lace. I've been
>searching the MFA website, but have not found it in the online
>collection yet.

Sounds like the one shown in Fashion in Detail, 17th & 18thc, look for
the polychrome embroidery jacket 1610 with the silver lace, silver
spangles & silver braid p16.  It's in the V&A not the MFA. Same book,
a less fitted polychrome embroidery jacket on p24.  Much more casual
in fit & style.

This latter one is what I would expect for a dressing jacket or a bed
jacket, where the previous looks too fitted. I would expect the first
in one  in Fashion in Detail to be used as an "at home". Pure
speculation.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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> From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
> >However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
> >embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
> >instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I

> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's
> _Elizabethan Embroidery_.  It's plate 22B.  "The jacket or doublet
> illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by
> Elizabeth Day McCormick.
>
> If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to
> its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578.  It
> looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip
> godets, etc.

Pleasingly, the MFA agrees with you, Melanie & not Mr Digby's 1963
scholarship. Search the MFA costume collection for
provenance=3D"McCormick" or search under "jackets".
The MFA says "English, About 1610=9615, with later alterations.
England, Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads
and spangles; metallic bobbin lace."
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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> From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
> >However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
> >embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
> >instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I

> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's
> _Elizabethan Embroidery_.  It's plate 22B.  "The jacket or doublet
> illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by
> Elizabeth Day McCormick.
>
> If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to
> its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578.  It
> looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip
> godets, etc.

Pleasingly, the MFA agrees with you, Melanie & not Mr Digby's 1963
scholarship. Search the MFA costume collection for
provenance=3D"McCormick" or search under "jackets".
The MFA says "English, About 1610=9615, with later alterations.
England, Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads
and spangles; metallic bobbin lace."
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 11:57:07 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

> From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
> >However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
> >embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread
> >instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I

> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> There's a black and white picture of this in George Wingfield Digby's
> _Elizabethan Embroidery_.  It's plate 22B.  "The jacket or doublet
> illustrated on Pl. 22B was given to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts by
> Elizabeth Day McCormick.

> If the picture shown in this book was taken after it was restored to
> its original form, I'm very dubious that it's as early as 1578.  It
> looks very like all the other 1605+ jackets with the little hip
> godets, etc.

Pleasingly, the MFA agrees with you, Melanie & not Mr Digby's 1963
scholarship. Search the MFA costume collection for
provenance=3D"McCormick" or search under "jackets".
The MFA says "English, About 1610=9615, with later alterations.
England, Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads
and spangles; metallic bobbin lace."

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] men's breeches 1st half of the 17th cent....
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Status: RO

Hi
How 'poofy' would a tradesman's breeches be in the 1st half of the 
17th cent in England?
Are the ones in The Cut of Men's Clothing a good rep for one of the 
middling sort?
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

Thank you all for the "Hood" references.  As chance would have it, my stash 
for the dolls includes lots of silk velvet, and I know at least one piece is 
soft enough at hand to make a very nice hood. The pearl braid I am using has 
been harvested from a 'dead' wedding gown.  The pearls are paste and so 
rather fragile; one string is set on a cord of silver metal (now tarnished); 
the other has very slightly larger pearls with silver-lined glass bead picot 
running the length.

This 'personage' is about 12" tall.  Queen Maude is 20" tall and designing 
for her is somewhat easier to include greater detail for the scale.  Made a 
new wig for Elizabeth yesterday and the face was transformed. Her 'working 
wig' was the curly sort one sees in most of the later portraits. The 
prominent Gibson girl pout is there in the pert nose, but the simpler hair 
do makes her look more pensive and vulnerable...and I think like Holbein saw 
her.

Made me remember in my years of presenting vintage and antique trunk or 
fashion shows how often I had to encourage the models to at least try to 
achieve a hairstyle that was apropriate to the age of the ensemble they were 
wearing.  "Hair" does so much to really evoke the past.

Still cleaning up after my massive two day sale of last spring at a local 
auction house.  My archives room is overflowing with all manner of 
antique/vintage fabric, fragments of all manner of fab. and trim, lace, tiny 
buttons, fur (tiny ermine tails), jewelry, leather and such.  I am now going 
to edit some of this; most of the Twentieth century stuff, especially almost 
anything after 1960, will be passed on to the local quilters or assisted 
living craft rooms.  And the rest?  The dollies are all calling to me..."I'm 
next!  It's My turn! No fair.  You always pick Her" and the like.

Kathleen 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
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Status: RO

Kathleen,

Are there pictures of your dolls online? I love dolls and would really
appreciate seeing your creations.

With regards,

kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 23:12:12 -0400
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Status: RO

Not yet.  I am now trying to explore a venue  for an exhibit. My 
concertration is still Historicle costuming, but on a mini scale...not 
historicle costuming as practiced by those who generally represent antique 
dolls of Historicle note.  "Original Doll in Original Package with Original 
Head, Arms, and Body, wearing Original clothing does not usually exhibit 
historicle clothing...only "historicitie" related to the doll "industry."

 As always, I am aware that any atempt of past fashion replication will 
always be an atempt and not true recreation. My best evocations will at best 
turn the minds eye to a reflection of the past fashion period attempted.

Spent the evening with some goldlace medallions, tiny pearls, garnet beads, 
and a gilt cross evoking the jewelry E. wears in the Holbein portrait.  La. 
what fun!

kathleen

---- Original Message ----- 
From: <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I


> Kathleen,
>
> Are there pictures of your dolls online? I love dolls and would really
> appreciate seeing your creations.
>
> With regards,
>
> kate
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 08:57:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
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Status: RO

Hello everyone,=0A=0AThe divorce saga continues. Ugh.=0A=0AMy collection is=
 large enough that it's going to wind up on the inventory list for the divi=
sion of assets. Oh joy. I have to reduce my collection to a bunch of number=
s. =0A=0ASome of these things were for my personal collection and thus I ne=
ver bothered to count hours put in, so I have NO clue what I would valuate =
them at. Trying to do searches on various costuming sites is proving very l=
engthy and tedious - time I just don't have since I am scrambling to rebuil=
d myself enough to find a job (anyone having leads for a lowly costumer in =
dire need of a place to work, do let me know!) and keep up with my soon-to-=
be- ex's demanding schedule.  Apparently I should be waking up one morning =
totally over it and greeting him at the door like my best buddy already. Th=
en again twelve years of his life was a complete waste of time to him. So m=
uch for memories.=0A=0AGetting on with it, I was hoping that everyone as co=
stumers would be willing to throw your opinions - they don't have to be vas=
tly detailed, just a round number - on what these items are worth on the ma=
rket. Some of them already have a valuation, which you will see - these one=
s I did count, and are very flexible now. The numbers merely represent actu=
al hours and actual materials costs - I charged myself out $10.00/hr. =0A=
=0AI am sitting here right now as I type - well, you know what I mean. ;-) =
putting up measurements for those whom have contacted me with interest for =
my pieces. That will give you a start on your decision making process. Anyt=
hing I plan on keeping is marked "not for sale".  But, if you like it just =
that much, we can talk.=0A=0AThanks for your patience with the harried, rat=
her miserable creature that I am,=0A=0AKathy=0A~He didn't think the bed pra=
nk was as funny as I did. But it was very satisfying!~=0A =0AErmine, a lion=
 rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, se=
eded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion=
s head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been=
.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginni=
ng of knowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change =
that. They can only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly re=
shape you to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam. =
See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Y=
ahoo! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Valuation
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Status: RO

Gah! It's the missing link!=0ASorry I didn't include it.=0A=0Ahttp://picasa=
web.google.com/49victor/KathySCostuming=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion ram=
pant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded=
, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions he=
ad erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A=
-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning o=
f knowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change that=
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how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo=
! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Subject: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
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Status: RO

Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this pattern.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg

I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face.  Have any of you seen 
anything like it?

Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....

Thanks,

Sg 

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Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:43:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It doesn't loook like "fringe" per say to me,
  it looks more like a weft of  wig hair, like if you took apart a halloween wig, i.e: an  old lady or white witch wig.
  I'd  say try that.
  Melody

Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this pattern.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg

I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face. Have any of you seen 
anything like it?

Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....

Thanks,

Sg 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Sep 23 15:33:12 2007
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:32:58 -0500
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Status: RO

Looks like long haired fake fur almost similar to the skunk ridge. Their
notions section doesn't say fringe but it doesn't say long hair fake fur
like it does for the skunk. You might get a clue from the instructions and
you might want to notify McCall about they oversite with the monkey face
hairs in the notions section. May try contacting McCalls and ask them what
they used. They might tell you.
It isn't fringe.

De

-----Original Message-----
Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this pattern.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg

I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face. Have any of you seen
anything like it?

Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....

Thanks,

Sg


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Sep 23 16:14:34 2007
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:16:00 -0400
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Status: RO

They don't mention what the lion's mane is made of, either (looks  
like crinkled strips of Kraft paper, which I don't think I'd want to  
put on a toddler...). Wouldn't a shopper want to know these things  
before getting home (if in fact the directions provide this  
information)?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner


On Sep 23, 2007, at 3:32 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Looks like long haired fake fur almost similar to the skunk ridge.  
> Their
> notions section doesn't say fringe but it doesn't say long hair  
> fake fur
> like it does for the skunk. You might get a clue from the  
> instructions and
> you might want to notify McCall about they oversite with the monkey  
> face
> hairs in the notions section. May try contacting McCalls and ask  
> them what
> they used. They might tell you.
> It isn't fringe.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>   Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this  
> pattern.
>
> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg
>
> I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face. Have any of  
> you seen
> anything like it?
>
> Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume Valuation
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:42:42 -0700
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Status: RO

Kathy,

	This is an incredible collection and should be worth a lot.  However the
pool of buyers who can actually pay what they are worth is small.  It is
even smaller when you realize that these are garments meant to fit one
person.  This means that the lovely lady of size 6 may have to pass up her
dearest wish gown if it is made only in size 16 (the opposite of my
problem!)  Nothing is worth money unless there are people willing to buy it.
	I'm saying this only because it sounds to me as though you don't want your
personal worth to be counted as very high due to these garments. If you do
want them to be higher, estimate the hours of work and multiply by about
$12.00 or more per hour.  That being a very inexpensive Courture
designer/maker.

Regina (been there but lucked out.  I have a hole in my life and my heart,
but the money side worked out painlessly for a wonder.)
>
>
> Gah! It's the missing link!
> Sorry I didn't include it.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/KathySCostuming
>
> Kathy
>

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <45331.44130.qm@web52109.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:56:31 -0700
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Status: RO

Remember, they're only worth what someone is willing to pay, so don't
overvalue them. It's probably in your best interest to sell first, then
split whatever they bring. Your ex may think they're worth more than you =
can
actually get.
Hoping for the best for you,=20
Sharon C.
=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 8:57 AM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Valuation of collection

Hello everyone,

The divorce saga continues. Ugh.

My collection is large enough that it's going to wind up on the =
inventory
list for the division of assets. Oh joy. I have to reduce my collection =
to a
bunch of numbers.=20

Some of these things were for my personal collection and thus I never
bothered to count hours put in, so I have NO clue what I would valuate =
them
at. Trying to do searches on various costuming sites is proving very =
lengthy
and tedious - time I just don't have since I am scrambling to rebuild =
myself
enough to find a job (anyone having leads for a lowly costumer in dire =
need
of a place to work, do let me know!) and keep up with my soon-to-be- =
ex's
demanding schedule.  Apparently I should be waking up one morning =
totally
over it and greeting him at the door like my best buddy already. Then =
again
twelve years of his life was a complete waste of time to him. So much =
for
memories.

Getting on with it, I was hoping that everyone as costumers would be =
willing
to throw your opinions - they don't have to be vastly detailed, just a =
round
number - on what these items are worth on the market. Some of them =
already
have a valuation, which you will see - these ones I did count, and are =
very
flexible now. The numbers merely represent actual hours and actual =
materials
costs - I charged myself out $10.00/hr.=20

I am sitting here right now as I type - well, you know what I mean. ;-)
putting up measurements for those whom have contacted me with interest =
for
my pieces. That will give you a start on your decision making process.
Anything I plan on keeping is marked "not for sale".  But, if you like =
it
just that much, we can talk.

Thanks for your patience with the harried, rather miserable creature =
that I
am,

Kathy
~He didn't think the bed prank was as funny as I did. But it was very
satisfying!~
=20
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.=20
It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.=20
Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can =
only
assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to =
their
own image.





      Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk =
email
the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail at
http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:05:53 -0700
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Status: RO

You could use fringe for drapes. It won't look exactly like the photo, but
would certainly be easy to work with. You could leave it as is, or cut the
ends of the loops so it fanned out more. How old is your nephew? Will he
care if it's not exact? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 11:14 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT

Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this pattern.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg

I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face.  Have any of you seen
anything like it?

Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....

Thanks,

Sg 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
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Status: RO


On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:57 AM, Kathy Page wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> The divorce saga continues. Ugh.
>
> My collection is large enough that it's going to wind up on the  
> inventory list for the division of assets. Oh joy. I have to reduce  
> my collection to a bunch of numbers.

<snip>

Just a brief idea:  the method of valuation depends on the purpose.   
If you were setting a value to something for insurance, that would  
different from estimating what to charge for a commission, etc.  It  
seems to me (but IANAL) that in the context of a divorce, the key  
question is "what is the liquidatable value of this property?"  That  
is, supposing that he, physically, were handed half the wardrobe of  
costumes, how much cash could he reasonably expect to turn them into  
on eBay or the equivalent without expending a great deal of time and  
effort?  For that, you shouldn't need to evaluate your specific  
costumes individually -- simply research final sale prices of roughly  
equivalent items (i.e., used custom-made costumes being sold to  
someone they weren't custom-made for) in a market that can be assume  
to reflect fair market expectations.

Heather

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Status: RO

This looks about right...thanks for the suggestions.
http://www.clothdollsupply.com/images/hair/DH-PLT.jpg



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melody Watts" <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT


> It doesn't loook like "fringe" per say to me,
>   it looks more like a weft of  wig hair, like if you took apart a 
> halloween wig, i.e: an  old lady or white witch wig.
>   I'd  say try that.
>   Melody
> 
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
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Status: RO

Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> They don't mention what the lion's mane is made of, either (looks like 
> crinkled strips of Kraft paper, which I don't think I'd want to put on a 
> toddler...). Wouldn't a shopper want to know these things before getting 
> home (if in fact the directions provide this information)?
> 

The lion's mane looks like loops of craft felt.

For the monkey, a strip of long haired fake fur should do it, but all I 
see in stores this year is short.

You might try this place: http://www.mendels.com/fur1.shtml
They seem to have a good variety.



Dawn


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:33:10 -0500
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Status: RO

The lion's mane is polar fleece cut into stripes. but yeah they don't say it
on the outside of the package. With the lion you can use long fake fur for
the mane as a sub.

example of long hair fake fur:
http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SLDLGHRFUR1

De

-----Original Message-----
They don't mention what the lion's mane is made of, either (looks
like crinkled strips of Kraft paper, which I don't think I'd want to
put on a toddler...). Wouldn't a shopper want to know these things
before getting home (if in fact the directions provide this
information)?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner


On Sep 23, 2007, at 3:32 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Looks like long haired fake fur almost similar to the skunk ridge.
> Their
> notions section doesn't say fringe but it doesn't say long hair
> fake fur
> like it does for the skunk. You might get a clue from the
> instructions and
> you might want to notify McCall about they oversite with the monkey
> face
> hairs in the notions section. May try contacting McCalls and ask
> them what
> they used. They might tell you.
> It isn't fringe.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>   Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this
> pattern.
>
> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg
>
> I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face. Have any of
> you seen
> anything like it?
>
> Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
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Status: RO

Fake fur is the best way to go, for sure...says one who has made a 'Noah's 
Arc' of animals in the other life  What ever, keep it soft around the face. 
Many kids are especially sensitive to any kind of roughness or texture they 
are not used to.

And with the fur, remember to cut it on the back side !  that way you will 
preserve the 'guard hair' and get the longest lengths preserved.  The strip 
you need should be less than an inch in width; be sure to determine the 
direction of the fall (nap on other piled fabrics).  Cut a small strip as a 
test and comb it out; drape around a curved item like maybe a water bottle 
or ball, and see how the hair falls. When you are getting the look you want, 
cut and put it in a dryer (no heat!!!) to remove all the loose stuff. It can 
be combed or brushed, but the dryer trick keeps the fiber dust to a minimum. 
And, instructions for the mother: Do not place hood in hot water or a dryer 
for cleaning!  The longhair stuff will shrivel and mat.

Don't know the yardage on this monkey, but remember that the fabric is 
usually 60" wide.  Buy the smallest amount the source allows. if you are 
buying craft squares, one will do.

Have fun!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 1:33 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT


> The lion's mane is polar fleece cut into stripes. but yeah they don't say 
> it
> on the outside of the package. With the lion you can use long fake fur for
> the mane as a sub.
>
> example of long hair fake fur:
> http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SLDLGHRFUR1
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> They don't mention what the lion's mane is made of, either (looks
> like crinkled strips of Kraft paper, which I don't think I'd want to
> put on a toddler...). Wouldn't a shopper want to know these things
> before getting home (if in fact the directions provide this
> information)?
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>
>
> On Sep 23, 2007, at 3:32 PM, otsisto wrote:
>
>> Looks like long haired fake fur almost similar to the skunk ridge.
>> Their
>> notions section doesn't say fringe but it doesn't say long hair
>> fake fur
>> like it does for the skunk. You might get a clue from the
>> instructions and
>> you might want to notify McCall about they oversite with the monkey
>> face
>> hairs in the notions section. May try contacting McCalls and ask
>> them what
>> they used. They might tell you.
>> It isn't fringe.
>>
>> De
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>>   Hi all, I am making the monkey costume for a nephew from this
>> pattern.
>>
>> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M8938.jpg
>>
>> I have no idea where to get the fringe for the face. Have any of
>> you seen
>> anything like it?
>>
>> Worse comes to worse, I'll get horsehair and make my own, but.....
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT
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Status: RO

When I made the lion many years ago, I used all different colors and widths 
of double poly satin ribbon....that worked very well  also...and was lots of 
fun!  Thanks again for your suggestions - I knew I could depend on you guys!

SG


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:33 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fringe source? Ltl OT


> The lion's mane is polar fleece cut into stripes. but yeah they don't say 
> it
> on the outside of the package. With the lion you can use long fake fur for
> the mane as a sub.
>
> example of long hair fake fur:
> http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SLDLGHRFUR1 

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO

> Blanche calls it a doublet.  Pattern #4, page 543.  Figure #334 --
only 
> shows the back.  "Courtesy the "Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection")
-- 
> no other accession/item number.

I finally found it on the web site: <snip> Accession number: 43.243

Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see

how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615.

I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in
1603.

Dawn
**************************
Thanks for digging this out Dawn.  Wow, the b&w pic in Digby sure looks
different from the color MFA pic.  And the restoration now has be
wondering about the bobbin lace being an accurate type.  

Catherine



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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
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Status: RO

Heather said:
>Just a brief idea:  the method of valuation depends on the purpose.
>If you were setting a value to something for insurance, that would
>different from estimating what to charge for a commission, etc.  It
>seems to me (but IANAL) that in the context of a divorce, the key
>question is "what is the liquidatable value of this property?"

Spoken like finance professional.  Also, Kathy, you are selling used
clothing, and not your time & effort.  As Heather says, that would be
considered in the replacement cost of each item.
During your term of ownership, you've used up some portion of the
original value of each of these assets.  What you are recouping now is
the, unfortunately termed, "salvage value" of the items.
No one has mentioned this side: If you are trying to value these
costumes and keep them, then you'd certainly want to price them as
used, low value, unsaleable items for purposes of sharing out the
assets of the marriage.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Thanks to all who shared.  I happily wasted an hour or more looking...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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I'm reading this weeks Economist 22 Sept 07 International section, and
found a picture of a clergyman (woman?) hard to tell s/he has a very
soft face) in low ruff. The text says this might be a lutheran bishop.
 I always thought ruffs, even for the clergy, had gone the way of the
dodo.
http://www.economist.com/daily/news/displaystory.cfm?story_id=9854782
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:46:49 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruffs in modern use
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 m>
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Status: RO

At 18:36 24/09/2007, you wrote:
>I'm reading this weeks Economist 22 Sept 07 International section, and
>found a picture of a clergyman (woman?) hard to tell s/he has a very
>soft face) in low ruff. The text says this might be a lutheran bishop.
>  I always thought ruffs, even for the clergy, had gone the way of the
>dodo.
>http://www.economist.com/daily/news/displaystory.cfm?story_id=9854782
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

I recently made a ruff for a civic official of a town in England. 
Mind you - they do wear very archaic clothing, based on 
Elizabethan/Tudor flat hats, academic gowns and so on.

Suzi

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruffs in modern use
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hah, they use them at every service here in denmark.

Tania

Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote: I'm reading this weeks Economist 22 Sept 07 International section, and
found a picture of a clergyman (woman?) hard to tell s/he has a very
soft face) in low ruff. The text says this might be a lutheran bishop.
 I always thought ruffs, even for the clergy, had gone the way of the
dodo.
http://www.economist.com/daily/news/displaystory.cfm?story_id=9854782
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Here you can see the danish ruffs how they are pleated in the organ piped 
pleats:
http://www.kristeligt-dagblad.dk/artikel/78158

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use
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Status: RO

Forgot to mention you can see the ruff to the left how it looks when it has 
ben starched in rice starch, next she uses the hot iron 8 times in all 
before the pleats are satisfied in look. She tells it  is a job for a 
pensioneer, because it takes long time..........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use


> Here you can see the danish ruffs how they are pleated in the organ piped 
> pleats:
> http://www.kristeligt-dagblad.dk/artikel/78158
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use
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Status: RO

The same ruffs are used in Hamburg, Luebeck and other parts of 
Northern Germany. I really wish I had more knowledge of the Danish 
language to read that article!

Hanna

At 20:36 24.09.2007, you wrote:
>Here you can see the danish ruffs how they are pleated in the organ 
>piped pleats:
>http://www.kristeligt-dagblad.dk/artikel/78158
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 15:13:30 -0500
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Status: RO

What I'd like to know is if most of these costumes are made for and worn by
her and her daughter and thus proof of ownership, it therefore should NOT be
shared property unless HE has been wearing the items himself as well. His
lawyer can not make her sell the costumes. If she sells the costumes then
the money becomes shared property but until then, again, unless he wears
them as well, they are her's.
All commissioned costumes need to be sold to the ones that commissioned them
then that money is shared property. All costumes not sewn for anyone in
particular or a customer backed out would be sold and money becomes shared
property.
It sounds like she needs another lawyer and if she doesn't have one she
needs to try to find a pro bono (sp?) one.
If the husband is the one filing for divorce for reasons of another woman
then he is in the hot seat position and he should be making the concession.
There is one thing that one SHOULD NOT do is find physical ways to get even.
One may be angry at the jerk but burning clothes, destroying their stuff
will not put the judge's or judge advocate 's mood to your side. And if
children are involved do not act like a child or bad mouth the other person
in front of the child as there is enough problems the child has to work
through emotionally with a divorce.

De
Personal opinion and not a lawyer.

-----Original Message-----
Heather said:
>Just a brief idea:  the method of valuation depends on the purpose.
>If you were setting a value to something for insurance, that would
>different from estimating what to charge for a commission, etc.  It
>seems to me (but IANAL) that in the context of a divorce, the key
>question is "what is the liquidatable value of this property?"

Spoken like finance professional.  Also, Kathy, you are selling used
clothing, and not your time & effort.  As Heather says, that would be
considered in the replacement cost of each item.
During your term of ownership, you've used up some portion of the
original value of each of these assets.  What you are recouping now is
the, unfortunately termed, "salvage value" of the items.
No one has mentioned this side: If you are trying to value these
costumes and keep them, then you'd certainly want to price them as
used, low value, unsaleable items for purposes of sharing out the
assets of the marriage.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Really cool!  I had no idea they were in use today.

Sg
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use
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Status: RO

I'm lazy. I sewed fishing line in the edge of my ruff so I don't have to
starch it. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 11:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use

Forgot to mention you can see the ruff to the left how it looks when it has
ben starched in rice starch, next she uses the hot iron 8 times in all
before the pleats are satisfied in look. She tells it  is a job for a
pensioneer, because it takes long time..........

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] ruffs in modern use


> Here you can see the danish ruffs how they are pleated in the organ piped 
> pleats:
> http://www.kristeligt-dagblad.dk/artikel/78158
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
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Status: RO



otsisto wrote:

> What I'd like to know is if most of these costumes are made for and worn by
> her and her daughter and thus proof of ownership, it therefore should NOT be
> shared property unless HE has been wearing the items himself as well. 


I think that depends on the state you live in.  For example, I live in 
California, which is a community property state.  Legally half my 
earnings and half my personal possessions belong to my husband--and vice 
versa.  My creditors could attach property in his name, or part of his 
earnings--and his creditors could attach my property and earnings.

I've lived happily with the same man since I was 18, so I know little 
about divorce. However, the little I've gathered from seeing other 
people's California divorces indicates that any financial arrangement 
the couple can manage to negotiate together, and legally sign up to, is 
valid.  For example, if one party is willing to let the other party 
retain certain assets, their value doesn't really matter.  I've never 
known anyone to force liquidation to divide up property for a divorce; 
though I suppose someone somewhere must have done it.

So frankly, I think the strategy is for her to convince her 
soon-to-be-ex-husband that her partly-worn clothes, in her own personal 
size, are of little value or use to him.  Probably in return for giving 
up something else that _he_ wants, but which is hopefully something she 
does not actually want.   Of course, that may be exactly what he's doing 
claiming her wardrobe--trying to get her to give up her claim to 
something _he_ wants much more than a bunch of women's clothes.

Failing that, to hire an official appraiser--and try to get one who will 
stress the low value of the wardrobe, its worn condition, unique sizing, 
unsuitability for ordinary daily use (after all, we're not talking about 
new Prada handbags or diamond necklaces here, something the average 
lawyer or jury would attach more value to than historic costume), etc.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Valuation of collection--again
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Status: RO

BTW, I don't see that a father has any claim on his children's (or 
stepchildren's, if that's the case) personal posessions in a divorce 
suit. He's not divorcing the daughter.

Fran

Lavolta Press wrote:

> 
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> 
>> What I'd like to know is if most of these costumes are made for and 
>> worn by
>> her and her daughter and thus proof of ownership, it therefore should 
>> NOT be
>> shared property unless HE has been wearing the items himself as well. 
> 
> 
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have a friend who is both a lawyer and a costumed
weirdo like the rest of us. He practices here in
California, but he might be able to provide some
guidance. Contact information available on request.

MaggiRos

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> What I'd like to know is if most of these costumes
> are made for and worn by
> her and her daughter and thus proof of ownership, it
> therefore should NOT be
> shared property unless HE has been wearing the items
> himself as well. 
[...]

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection--again
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:33:59 -0500
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Status: RO

So any costume that is the daughter's stays with the daughter and should not
be up for sale unless the daughter wishes to sell it. Right?

De

-----Original Message-----
BTW, I don't see that a father has any claim on his children's (or
stepchildren's, if that's the case) personal posessions in a divorce
suit. He's not divorcing the daughter.

Fran

Lavolta Press wrote:



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Valuation of collection--again
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Status: RO

Well, I'd think so.

Fran

otsisto wrote:
> So any costume that is the daughter's stays with the daughter and should not
> be up for sale unless the daughter wishes to sell it. Right?
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> BTW, I don't see that a father has any claim on his children's (or
> stepchildren's, if that's the case) personal posessions in a divorce
> suit. He's not divorcing the daughter.
> 
> Fran
> 
> Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:57:14 -1000 (HST)
From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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> Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see how 
> magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615.

There's a color picture of the front in Adolph Cavallo's Needlework. 
Unfortunately you can't see the metallic-ness in that photo either but the 
jacket is being worn by a mannequin which may also be wearing a matching 
coif.  I'm not sure about the coif, not with my books right now.

--lisa
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:58:57 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?
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Status: RO

Here i found an interresting article looking for ruffs. This is older though 
and not a collar but a headwear, medieval.
Nice reconstruktion:
 http://www.aabne-samlinger.dk/naestved/historie/hoveddug.pdf

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
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Status: RO


On Sep 24, 2007, at 6:38 AM, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> I finally found it on the web site: <snip> Accession number: 43.243
>
> Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't  
> see
>
> how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to  
> 1610-1615.
>
> I wonder if they disproved the connection to Elizabeth I, who died in
> 1603.

Unlikely, I'd think. Barring the discovery of new documents, a  
connection with a famous person is pretty difficult either to prove  
or to disprove.

The date says "about," which I would guess means they are probably  
fairly confident about which quarter of the 17th century it's from,  
and maybe the decade, but wouldn't want to narrow it down too much  
beyond that without some more research.

The MFA Boston actually has a pretty decent textiles collection, but  
for a long time they had NO gallery space allotted to it, and even  
now there is only one textiles gallery. So most of the collection  
sits in storage. They do, however, make it fairly easy to purchase a  
good photo of many of their items, even if they're not on display.

There might also be someone in the Boston area on this list who'd be  
interested in taking a closer look at it. (I'm only in that area for  
a couple of days twice a year or so, visiting my Dad.) In my  
experience, if you have a good reason to want to see something close  
up, you can usually make an appointment to see something "backstage"  
and take photos for your own private use. (You still probably won't  
be able to touch things -- a staff member will be with you, though,  
so things can be turned over for you to see both sides.)

This type of jacket (obviously) is not knitted, but the MFA also does  
have several knitted jackets from about the same time period. If  
anyone's in the Yahoo [HistoricKnit] group, my photos of three of the  
knitted jackets from the MFA are in a photo album called "jackets"  
there.
(That's http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/ )

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Status: RO

Having gone some of this route myself... be very careful about 
validation.  And don't get trapped into what he's saying.  The "rules" 
for things like books and clothing are "garage sale prices".  (Boy, did 
I skate by on my book collection. Tilki = $2 <G>)

And, the reality is, if you try to sell the pieces... they sell as 
used.  Not only are you likely to not get your labor, but not get your 
material costs at liquidation prices... which is what you've got to 
use.  Don't be prideful and values them at what they're worth to you, or 
"insurance rates".

Ex: My Snow Queen had over $1500 in materials alone and was in excellent 
condition.  It could sized up and down a lot was covered in hand beading 
and crystal and all kinds of extras from wig to shoes.  I worked on it 
for over 2 years to create a living sculpture  Even with the most 
advertising I could muster, and selling near Halloween, it went for 
under $325.  I couldn't even get e-bay sales on some of the other things 
because they were not what folks wanted.  They ended up sold to 
neighbors and thrift shops for $25 to $35, even with hand beadings and 
embroidery... because to them they were just rental costumes... and not 
the flashy kind. (The exception was a flashy disaster of a t-tunic that 
had never been finished that folks fought over because they though it 
said Harry Potter... and I made money on that thing.)

If your hubby argues at the low set prices.   Ask if he'll split the 
cost of having someone come in and value them.... value-for-sale 
prices... and use a vintage clothing/costume dealer, not a "historic 
expert".  IF he doesn't like it, ask him to do the work of listing the 
pieces you're selling on e-bay and see what you get (and then value the 
pieces you're keeping from the same prices.)

There is NO need for you to dance to his tune.  He's forfeit any claim 
at this point to even suggest.  Go with the letter of the law.

-Cat-
Been there, done that, and even lost the t-shirt off my back.... but at 
least I have a spine now.
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:10:30 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Ruffs in modern use
References: <200709250317.l8P3H88L005948@net.indra.com>
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Status: RO

I like the fact that the lady uses an electric poking-stick (I can understand
enough of the text to make that out)!

British clergy don't wear ruffs, but some boy choristers wear pleated neckbands
or other styles of archaic neckwear. My friends' son who was head chorister at
Chichester Cathedral wore a falling-band.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:45:52 -0400
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

If you're talking about the woman on the right, that's not a ruff per
se, but rather a goffered veil, where a small ruffle has been woven into
the edge of the veil as part of the cloth (there are a number of
theories on how this was done) and the cloth is folded back and forth
over the head a few times to build up the thick frill. Several
enterprising weavers out there have done a reconstruction of the weave
necessary, though I can't seem to find any decent links...


Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
>Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 2:59 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?
>
>Here i found an interresting article looking for ruffs. This=20
>is older though and not a collar but a headwear, medieval.
>Nice reconstruktion:
> http://www.aabne-samlinger.dk/naestved/historie/hoveddug.pdf
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?
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Status: RO

Oh rats!  We were going to try this ourselves.  If you do find any links or 
sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up online, we'd 
love to know.

Thanks,

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Several
enterprising weavers out there have done a reconstruction of the weave
necessary, though I can't seem to find any decent links...


Astrida


 

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Status: RO


> Oh rats! We were going to try this ourselves. If you do find any links or
> sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up online, we=
'd
> love to know.

This article presents an in-depth analysis of the veil style and a proposed=
 weaving method tested by the author:

"Giovanna Cenami's Veil: A Neglected Detail," by
Carla Tilghman, in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Netherton and Owen=
-Crocker (Boydell, 2005).

Since then, Carla has become involved in an international project on these =
veils, and from what I hear they are coming up with some astounding pieces =
of evidence, including an extant piece (or two pieces?) of ruffled-edge wea=
ving. Here's info on the project:

http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/Projekter/kruselerprojekte.html

I should note that the project head, Camilla Luise Dahl, has done a really =
splendid article on an extant medieval linen cap (not frilled-edged) for th=
e upcoming (2008) volume of MC&T. I can vouch for her work. Many of the oth=
er names listed as involved in this project should be recognizable to membe=
rs of this list. I know another member personally as a US re-enactor.=20

More from that group here if you read Danish (I don't):

http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/nyhedsbrevjan07tilweb.pdf

See pages 15-23 (three articles). The articles include pictures of the exta=
nt piece (pieces?) of ruffle-edged fabric, and also pictures of various att=
empts at reconstruction, including weaving and starching. That's all I can =
get given how language-impaired I am.

I will have to convince Camilla to publish this in English when they are al=
l done.

--Robin




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:05:06 -0400
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Status: RO

THANKS, Robin, those are great links!!

I have a Danish friend and I've just asked her if she could translate =
for us. Might take a little while, but probably sooner than getting the =
busy people at the Center to get to it...

So nice to see these; commercial variants are now available in the US =
reenactor market, but they're constructed of flat cloth with a sewn-on =
ruffle, and I just can't bring myself to do it. Not that a woven veil is =
any closer to being on my head for seeing this article, but it's so good =
to see the work being done (and inspirational to try it...)

Fantasy vacation: 2 weeks at the Center.... This Danish friend of mine =
visits there every year when she goes back to visit family and she raves =
about the place... (Cue "If I Were a Rich Man" from Fiddler on the =
Roof...)


Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
>Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 11:39 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
>
>
>> Oh rats! We were going to try this ourselves. If you do find=20
>any links=20
>> or sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up=20
>> online, we'd love to know.
>
>This article presents an in-depth analysis of the veil style=20
>and a proposed weaving method tested by the author:
>
>"Giovanna Cenami's Veil: A Neglected Detail," by Carla=20
>Tilghman, in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Netherton=20
>and Owen-Crocker (Boydell, 2005).
>
>Since then, Carla has become involved in an international=20
>project on these veils, and from what I hear they are coming=20
>up with some astounding pieces of evidence, including an=20
>extant piece (or two pieces?) of ruffled-edge weaving. Here's=20
>info on the project:
>
>http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/Projekter/kruselerprojekte.html
>
>I should note that the project head, Camilla Luise Dahl, has=20
>done a really splendid article on an extant medieval linen cap=20
>(not frilled-edged) for the upcoming (2008) volume of MC&T. I=20
>can vouch for her work. Many of the other names listed as=20
>involved in this project should be recognizable to members of=20
>this list. I know another member personally as a US re-enactor.=20
>
>More from that group here if you read Danish (I don't):
>
>http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/nyhedsbrevjan07tilweb.pdf
>
>See pages 15-23 (three articles). The articles include=20
>pictures of the extant piece (pieces?) of ruffle-edged fabric,=20
>and also pictures of various attempts at reconstruction,=20
>including weaving and starching. That's all I can get given=20
>how language-impaired I am.
>
>I will have to convince Camilla to publish this in English=20
>when they are all done.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the=20
>Messenger Caf=E9.
>http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_SeptWLtagline______
_________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
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Status: RO

At 16:38 25/09/2007, you wrote:

> > Oh rats! We were going to try this ourselves. If you do find any links or
> > sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up online, we'd
> > love to know.
>
>This article presents an in-depth analysis of the veil style and a 
>proposed weaving method tested by the author:
>
>"Giovanna Cenami's Veil: A Neglected Detail," by
>Carla Tilghman, in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Netherton 
>and Owen-Crocker (Boydell, 2005).
>
>Since then, Carla has become involved in an international project on 
>these veils, and from what I hear they are coming up with some 
>astounding pieces of evidence, including an extant piece (or two 
>pieces?) of ruffled-edge weaving. Here's info on the project:
>
>http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/Projekter/kruselerprojekte.html
>
>I should note that the project head, Camilla Luise Dahl, has done a 
>really splendid article on an extant medieval linen cap (not 
>frilled-edged) for the upcoming (2008) volume of MC&T. I can vouch 
>for her work. Many of the other names listed as involved in this 
>project should be recognizable to members of this list. I know 
>another member personally as a US re-enactor.
>
>More from that group here if you read Danish (I don't):
>
>http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/nyhedsbrevjan07tilweb.pdf
>
>See pages 15-23 (three articles). The articles include pictures of 
>the extant piece (pieces?) of ruffle-edged fabric, and also pictures 
>of various attempts at reconstruction, including weaving and 
>starching. That's all I can get given how language-impaired I am.
>
>I will have to convince Camilla to publish this in English when they 
>are all done.

It's interesting that some of the extant pieces seem to come from 
Burgos in Spain, where so much early textile evidence comes from. I 
don't remember seeing them when I saw an exhibition of grave finds 
from Burgos in Madrid a couple of years ago, but maybe they weren't 
on display, or maybe I didn't notice 0 the catalogue was very expensive.

Yes, please, an English edition would be wonderful.

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
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Status: RO

Oh gosh Robin, thanks a lot for that link. It is very very interresting, and 
my how fantastic that they still have such old veils preserved!
I didnt know they made such wonderfull magazines at the medieval center.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <rbnetherton@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")



> Oh rats! We were going to try this ourselves. If you do find any links or
> sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up online, 
> we'd
> love to know.

This article presents an in-depth analysis of the veil style and a proposed 
weaving method tested by the author:

"Giovanna Cenami's Veil: A Neglected Detail," by
Carla Tilghman, in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Netherton and 
Owen-Crocker (Boydell, 2005).

Since then, Carla has become involved in an international project on these 
veils, and from what I hear they are coming up with some astounding pieces 
of evidence, including an extant piece (or two pieces?) of ruffled-edge 
weaving. Here's info on the project:

http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/Projekter/kruselerprojekte.html

I should note that the project head, Camilla Luise Dahl, has done a really 
splendid article on an extant medieval linen cap (not frilled-edged) for the 
upcoming (2008) volume of MC&T. I can vouch for her work. Many of the other 
names listed as involved in this project should be recognizable to members 
of this list. I know another member personally as a US re-enactor.

More from that group here if you read Danish (I don't):

http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/nyhedsbrevjan07tilweb.pdf

See pages 15-23 (three articles). The articles include pictures of the 
extant piece (pieces?) of ruffle-edged fabric, and also pictures of various 
attempts at reconstruction, including weaving and starching. That's all I 
can get given how language-impaired I am.

I will have to convince Camilla to publish this in English when they are all 
done.

--Robin




_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
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Small world -- (doi.) It was Camilla who contacted me originally to do some 
work on a related paper for this type of weaving.  We were successful in 
doing something similar for a Vach, just by taking a flour sack towel and 
stretching the edges.  It distorted enough to make the smaller crinkles you 
see on those.

I wasn't aware that the papers were available online.  She told me she was 
starting an online magazine....of course I can't find that link right now. 
I will pass it along when I hear back from her.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <rbnetherton@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")



> Oh rats! We were going to try this ourselves. If you do find any links or
> sources who you know have done this but don't have anything up online, 
> we'd
> love to know.

This article presents an in-depth analysis of the veil style and a proposed 

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> Oh gosh Robin, thanks a lot for that link. It is very very interresting, =
and > my how fantastic that they still have such old veils preserved!> I di=
dnt know they made such wonderfull magazines at the medieval center.
Oh, I forgot, Bjarne, it's practically local for you! I am jealous.
=20
--Robin
_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Caf=
=E9.
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Status: RO


> Small world -- (doi.) It was Camilla who contacted me originally to do so=
me > work on a related paper for this type of weaving. We were successful i=
n > doing something similar for a Vach, just by taking a flour sack towel a=
nd > stretching the edges. It distorted enough to make the smaller crinkles=
 you > see on those.> > I wasn't aware that the papers were available onlin=
e. She told me she was > starting an online magazine....of course I can't f=
ind that link right now. > I will pass it along when I hear back from her.
I think you might mean this:
=20
http://www.dragt.dk/dragt-journal/dragtjournalen.html
=20
--Robin
_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever =96 Get MORE with Windows Live=99=
 Hotmail=AE. NOW with 5GB storage.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=3Den-us&ocid=3DTXT_TAGHM_mig=
ration_HM_mini_5G_0907=
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Status: RO

I apologize for the great delay on this.  I've been very behind on reading all of the digests from this list due to mundane life.  I just HAD to reply to this particular post.  Michaela, your Moulin Rouge outfits are gorgeous.  And you look so much like her!  Congrats on your win with Cosplay with the diamonds outfit.

Respectfully,

Valerie Hickey
(*headed back to lurk mode*)

*******************************************************
Michaela wrote:

Yep:) Since 1999 but it's shifted about and had a few makeovers;)

http://costumes.glittersweet.com

Now off to go look at the links before me.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com


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Status: RO

I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone 
posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered some 
time ago.  It included a photo of the garment.  I wanted to show my 
class.  Anyone have the link, if it still exists?

Sylrog

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ancient Egyptian garment
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:58:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Sep 25, 2007, at 8:02 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone =20
> posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered =20
> some time ago.  It included a photo of the garment.  I wanted to =20
> show my class.  Anyone have the link, if it still exists?

There are a couple of dresses (or fragments of dresses) of this type =20
that I've run across.  At the moment I'm away from home, so going off =20=

what's on the computer, it's cited in "Hall 1981" which I think must be:

Hall, Rosalind.  1981.  "Fishing-net dreses in the Petrie Museum" in  =20=

G=F6ttinger Miszellen:  42:36-46.

But also in:

Hall, Rosalind.  1986.  Egyptian Textiles.  Shire Publications, =20
Aylesbury.  ISBN 0-85263-800-0

which is more likely to have a color photo.

Heather



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Status: RO


Perhaps you mean this one? the "Textiles in the Petrie Museum Schools' Pack=
."
http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/Textiles%20in%20the%20Petrie%20Museum.doc
=20
The museums Teacher's Pack.
http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/arabic/Petrie_KS2_Packv_2.doc
=20
The Petrie Museum has a picture of the dress online.
http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/detail/details/index_no_login.php?objectid=3DUC=
17743&accesscheck=3D%2Fdetail%2Fdetails%2Findex.php
=20
Here is a photo someone else took. Depending on the age of the class I don'=
t nkow that I'd show the article.
http://www.thekeep.org/~kunoichi/kunoichi/themestream/sexuality.html
=20
Another side view.
http://www.ucl.ac.uk/FriendsofPetrie/pages/Projects.html
=20
A search on The Petrie Museum Bead Dress brings up quite a bit but I think =
the first one I list is perhaps the article you were thinking of.
=20
Regards,
Anne Marie Decker
> I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone > poste=
d about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered some > time ag=
o. It included a photo of the garment. I wanted to show my > class. Anyone =
have the link, if it still exists?> > Sylrog=
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Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 07:59:14 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ancient Egyptian garment
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Status: RO

I found the on-line reference for the beaded dress at the Museum of
fine arts in Boston:
(or you can search by accession #: 27.1548.1 at
http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp)

http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=3Dtrue&id=3D146531&co=
ll_keywords=3Dbead+dress&coll_accession=3D&coll_name=3D&coll_artist=3D&coll=
_place=3D&coll_medium=3D&coll_culture=3Degypt&coll_classification=3D&coll_c=
redit=3D&coll_provenance=3D&coll_location=3D&coll_has_images=3D&coll_on_vie=
w=3D&coll_sort=3D2&coll_sort_order=3D0&coll_view=3D0&coll_package=3D0&coll_=
start=3D1

Their description follows.

Katy


Beadnet dress
Egyptian, Old Kingdom, Dynasty 4, reign of Khufu, 2551=962528 B.C.
Findspot: Giza, Egypt
Length x width: 113 x 44 cm (44 1/2 x 17 5/16 in.)
Faience
Classification: Costumes
On view in the:   Egyptian Old Kingdom (Hetepheres) Gallery
The main body of the dress consists of faience beads strung in a
lozenge pattern. A line of dark blue cylinder beads marks the division
between the skirt and the bodice. The halter-shaped bodice consists of
alternating rows of cylinder beads and the lozenge pattern. Light and
dark blue floral beads hang from the bottom edge of the garment.

This portion of a bead net dress was reconstructed from approximately
7,000 beads found in an undisturbed burial (see photographs). Although
their string had disintegrated, a few beads still lay in their
original pattern. Such garments are frequently shown on painted
statues or in tomb wall scenes (see drawing), but this is the earliest
surviving actual example of such a garment.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Harvard University=97Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition, 1927
Accession number: 27.1548.1
Provenance/Ownership History: From Giza, tomb G 7440 Z. 1927:
excavated by the Harvard University-Museum of Fine Arts Expedition;
1927: assigned to the MFA by the government of Egypt.
(Accession Date: May 27, 1987)


On 9/25/07, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone
> posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered some
> time ago.  It included a photo of the garment.  I wanted to show my
> class.  Anyone have the link, if it still exists?
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--=20
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 26 September 2007, Sigrid Briansdotter wrote:
> Perhaps you mean this one? the "Textiles in the Petrie Museum Schools'
> Pack."
> http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/Textiles%20in%20the%20Petrie%20Museum.doc

Thanks for posting this!  It's a gold mine of information, whether it's what 
Sylvia was looking for or not.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ancient Egyptian garment
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:08:40 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 25 September 2007, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone
> posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered some
> time ago.  It included a photo of the garment.  I wanted to show my
> class.  Anyone have the link, if it still exists?

I posted a cite to an article by Rosalind Janessen (nee Hall) about several of 
such dresses.  I made JPEGs of each page of the article, which had a number 
of color photographs.  It was in KMT magazine, but I'm having trouble finding 
the volume or year.  However, the title was "An Ancient Egyptian Erotic 
Fashion:  Fishnet Dresses."  I can send you the JPEGs by private e-mail, if 
you like.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
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Status: RO

I've never heard of this woven frilled edge before. I
expect it explains the complex but seamless frill on
the veil in the Arnolfini Wedding portrait, wouldn't
it?

http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1434_arnolfini_lady_sm.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/39cq3c

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Subject: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
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Status: RO

Hello the list.
A request for some assistance in finding a pattern or a good image.

I've been cast in a murder-mystery evening, to take place the night  
of October 26.

The venue is a fabulous mansion on the Connecticut shore, recently  
restored and elegantly decorated. The mansion was in its heyday  
1910-1940.

The mystery is set in 1926.

I play the nouveau-riche wife of a corrupt U.S. senator. I am active  
in the charitable groups Friends of Small Rodents, American Wives for  
Access to Mixed Drinks, and Citizens for a Wealthier America. I'm  
known for my large, garish hats. Beyond that the script does not  
specify.

As for me the actual person in the role, I'm 61, middle height,  
considerably more than middle girth, long white-and-blonde hair that  
can be put up in almost any style. My huge collection of feathers and  
costume jewelry is meant to serve Shakespearean productions, but I'm  
sure I've got some things in there that would flash in an  
appropriately roaring style to embellish whatever I wind up wearing.

We're responsible for our own costumes. One of the community theaters  
will be contributing some things, but there isn't anything in their  
collection that seems to me to be "right" for Eunice Carver. I won't  
have time to sew, but a friend who often works with me on costuming  
shows I direct has offered to make me whatever I want!

The 'Twenties is DEFINITELY NOT my period as a costumer, director, or  
aficionado, so I turn to the ever-resourceful List for suggestions.  
Pattern suggestions would be most helpful, since my friend works best  
with patterns; failing that, some good pictures (online if possible)  
we could look at.

Thanks in advance!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy, amateur costumer, and Friend of Small Rodents
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Status: RO

You may be nouveau riche, but if you are a senator's wife, you wouldn't
dress in the latest fashions. Wide hats were still worn in the summer
and by women of a certain age. For yourself, you would want to show off
that beautiful long hair in one of the complicated styles all braids and
buns for those that didn't believe in cutting their hair. =20

You wouldn't be too conservative--maybe a candy cigarette(if you don't
smoke)in a showy, diamante-studded holder might be in order. Pearls
would be a must.


The Dover book : Fashions of the 1920's from B. Altman's might prove
helpful. Women of a "certain age" and not thin, were openly designated
as stout in the fashion mags and catalogs of the day and mostly limited
to black, grey, and navy blue for color choices. But shoes were often
ornate and with access to your own modiste, and also the funds for
Chanel, Paquin, Worth, Jenny, and even Poiret, you could have something
made that would really make a splash, to heck with being a Washington
wife.

Sources would be 1926 films. Also many libraries have Harper's Bazaar,
Vogue, or McCalls on microfilm if you can't find the gold mine of actual
issues.  See Harper House at longago.com (I think) for 1920's patterns.

I'm not a '20's-holic but these sources would be where I would start.

Good luck

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 3:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926

Hello the list.
A request for some assistance in finding a pattern or a good image.

I've been cast in a murder-mystery evening, to take place the night of
October 26.

The venue is a fabulous mansion on the Connecticut shore, recently
restored and elegantly decorated. The mansion was in its heyday
1910-1940.

The mystery is set in 1926.

I play the nouveau-riche wife of a corrupt U.S. senator. I am active in
the charitable groups Friends of Small Rodents, American Wives for
Access to Mixed Drinks, and Citizens for a Wealthier America. I'm known
for my large, garish hats. Beyond that the script does not specify.

As for me the actual person in the role, I'm 61, middle height,
considerably more than middle girth, long white-and-blonde hair that can
be put up in almost any style. My huge collection of feathers and
costume jewelry is meant to serve Shakespearean productions, but I'm
sure I've got some things in there that would flash in an appropriately
roaring style to embellish whatever I wind up wearing.

We're responsible for our own costumes. One of the community theaters
will be contributing some things, but there isn't anything in their
collection that seems to me to be "right" for Eunice Carver. I won't
have time to sew, but a friend who often works with me on costuming
shows I direct has offered to make me whatever I want!

The 'Twenties is DEFINITELY NOT my period as a costumer, director, or
aficionado, so I turn to the ever-resourceful List for suggestions. =20
Pattern suggestions would be most helpful, since my friend works best
with patterns; failing that, some good pictures (online if possible) we
could look at.

Thanks in advance!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy, amateur costumer, and Friend of Small Rodents
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: "ruffs on the head?")
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 16:04:48 -0500
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Status: RO


> I've never heard of this woven frilled edge before. I> expect it explains=
 the complex but seamless frill on> the veil in the Arnolfini Wedding portr=
ait, wouldn't> it?> > http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1434_arnolfini_l=
ady_sm.jpg> or> http://tinyurl.com/39cq3c
Van Eyck painted a number of those frilled-edge veils, and he gives us a ve=
ry good view of that seamless transition. Carla Tilghman focused on another=
 of his paintings as one of her examples in her MC&T article about the poss=
ible weaving method.
=20
--Robin
=20
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
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Status: RO

I would suggest some showy (but fake) jewelry in geometric 
art-deco-styled designs. Rectangular "baguette" stones are good. 
Diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Filigree settings are also good. 
Marcasite/rhinestones are good.

If you want to splurge a little on some repro jewelry that is affordable 
to the modern middle classes without being total junk, try this website:

http://www.jansjewells.com/reproduction/filigreependant.htm

The fun thing about the 1920s, IMO, is that you don't have to exhibit 
discreet good taste.

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Abel, Cynthia wrote:

> You may be nouveau riche, but if you are a senator's wife, you wouldn't
> dress in the latest fashions. Wide hats were still worn in the summer
> and by women of a certain age. For yourself, you would want to show off
> that beautiful long hair in one of the complicated styles all braids and
> buns for those that didn't believe in cutting their hair.  
> 
> You wouldn't be too conservative--maybe a candy cigarette(if you don't
> smoke)in a showy, diamante-studded holder might be in order. Pearls
> would be a must.
> 
> 
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That website reminds me:  Black onyx is very Art Deco.

Fran
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
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Oh, bless you, Fran. Out comes my marcasite collection! I almost  
never have an excuse to wear any of the 40 rings and assorted  
brooches I haven't been able to resist over the years....
And thanks, Cynthia, for the cigarette suggestion. There's no way we  
would be permitted to smoke in this mansion, but the candy cigarette  
would be a perfect touch. And my Queen Elizabeth ropes of pearls will  
work.
Having fun already....
--Ruth Anne

On Sep 26, 2007, at 5:48 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> I would suggest some showy (but fake) jewelry in geome tric art- 
> deco-styled designs. Rectangular "baguette" stones are good.  
> Diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Filigree settings are also  
> good. Marcasite/rhinestones are good.
>
> If you want to splurge a little on some repro jewelry that is  
> affordable to the modern middle classes without being total junk,  
> try this website:
>
> http://www.jansjewells.com/reproduction/filigreependant.htm
>
> The fun thing about the 1920s, IMO, is that you don't have to  
> exhibit discreet good taste.
>
> Fran Grimble
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
> Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>
>> You may be nouveau riche, but if you are a senator's wife, you  
>> wouldn't
>> dress in the latest fashions. Wide hats were still worn in the summer
>> and by women of a certain age. For yourself, you would want to  
>> show off
>> that beautiful long hair in one of the complicated styles all  
>> braids and
>> buns for those that didn't believe in cutting their hair.  You  
>> wouldn't be too conservative--maybe a candy cigarette(if you don't
>> smoke)in a showy, diamante-studded holder might be in order. Pearls
>> would be a must.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:20:26 -0400
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Status: RO

Ruth Anne, You might take a look at the wonderful costumes in the new Poiret 
book...some smashing evening coats that were meant to 'make the scene'! 
Also there are some charming dresses/gowns in the Wardrobe for Queen Maude 
of Norway.  Also, the fairly recent volume of the dressmaker's trade in 
Ohio, the title of which escapes me.  Quite a few pics of the time period.

kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926


> Hello the list.
> A request for some assistance in finding a pattern or a good image.
>
> I've been cast in a murder-mystery evening, to take place the night  of 
> October 26.
>
> The venue is a fabulous mansion on the Connecticut shore, recently 
> restored and elegantly decorated. The mansion was in its heyday 
> 1910-1940.
>
> The mystery is set in 1926.
>
> I play the nouveau-riche wife of a corrupt U.S. senator. I am active  in 
> the charitable groups Friends of Small Rodents, American Wives for  Access 
> to Mixed Drinks, and Citizens for a Wealthier America. I'm  known for my 
> large, garish hats. Beyond that the script does not  specify.
>
> As for me the actual person in the role, I'm 61, middle height, 
> considerably more than middle girth, long white-and-blonde hair that  can 
> be put up in almost any style. My huge collection of feathers and  costume 
> jewelry is meant to serve Shakespearean productions, but I'm  sure I've 
> got some things in there that would flash in an  appropriately roaring 
> style to embellish whatever I wind up wearing.
>
> We're responsible for our own costumes. One of the community theaters 
> will be contributing some things, but there isn't anything in their 
> collection that seems to me to be "right" for Eunice Carver. I won't  have 
> time to sew, but a friend who often works with me on costuming  shows I 
> direct has offered to make me whatever I want!
>
> The 'Twenties is DEFINITELY NOT my period as a costumer, director, or 
> aficionado, so I turn to the ever-resourceful List for suggestions. 
> Pattern suggestions would be most helpful, since my friend works best 
> with patterns; failing that, some good pictures (online if possible)  we 
> could look at.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy, amateur costumer, and Friend of Small Rodents
> _______________________________________________
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
>> Sources would be 1926 films.

Seems like a great chance to get acquainted with Harold Lloyd's films to me! 
Mmmm, Harold Lloyd.

-E "Don't need no steenken Chaplin" House 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
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Status: RO

http://www.fashion-era.com/1920s/1925_fashion_mccalls_aug_2.htm

http://www.vintageblues.com/history2b.htm

http://www.tias.com/12939/InventoryPage/1928708/1.html

This is probably what you are looking for
http://www.fashion-era.com/1920s_pictures.htm

http://www.costumegallery.com/1923/

http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/index.shtml

http://www.vintagetextile.com/1920s_to_1930s.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item6114.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4496.htm

cloak
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4046.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4702.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item3896.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4242.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item2681.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item3041.htm

day dress
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3826.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item2538.htm

http://www.antiquedress.com/item2690.htm

Hope this helps

De



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Status: RO

For images of the era, if you go to:
http://www.loc.gov and do a search for 1926, you'll find more than you know 
what to do with, especially here:
http://lcweb2.loc.gov/pp/pphome.html and here:
http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/index.html

-E

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 27 07:39:20 2007
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 07:40:15 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thank you De, E, Kathleen, Fran, and Cynthia. Your replies have given  
my costumer and me a real treasure trove to roll around in.
If I am permitted to take photos (and can sneak an anachronistic  
camera into use without having our "guests" notice) I'll post some  
pix after the event. The house is not to be believed--I hope we can  
do it justice (i.e., everyone is responsible for his or her own  
costume, which means the two non-sewing ingenues, both very young,  
are an unknown quantity unless they let the community-theater costume  
person take charge of them!). I am now very confident about my own  
potential!
--Ruth Anne

On Sep 27, 2007, at 3:21 AM, E House wrote:

> For images of the era, if you go to:
> http://www.loc.gov and do a search for 1926, you'll find more than  
> you know what to do with, especially here:
> http://lcweb2.loc.gov/pp/pphome.html and here:
> http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/index.html
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Tori Ruhl" <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
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Status: RO

Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
Or horsehair felt for that matter.=20

Thanks!
Tori

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
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Status: RO

I found a fabric store that sells hair canvas but it is goat, not horse. And it is pretty expensive at around $32 per yard:
   
  http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm
  

Tori Ruhl <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com> wrote:
  Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
Or horsehair felt for that matter. 

Thanks!
Tori

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

You can probably get horsehair felt at a reupholstry store. They use is for making those nice comfy chairs and sofa's before they used foam.
I know a couple of stores here in Denmark that sells horsehair canvas, but that is probably not an option for you

Tania

Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote: I found a fabric store that sells hair canvas but it is goat, not horse. And it is pretty expensive at around $32 per yard:
   
  http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm
  

Tori Ruhl  wrote:
  Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
Or horsehair felt for that matter. 

Thanks!
Tori

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <339445.65580.qm@web39609.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 10:59:51 -0400
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Status: RO

Haven't seen their catalogue lately, but I believe Greenberg and Hammer have 
carried it in the past...or any other notion company that serves the garment 
making industry.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas


> You can probably get horsehair felt at a reupholstry store. They use is 
> for making those nice comfy chairs and sofa's before they used foam.
> I know a couple of stores here in Denmark that sells horsehair canvas, but 
> that is probably not an option for you
>
> Tania
>
> Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote: I found a fabric 
> store that sells hair canvas but it is goat, not horse. And it is pretty 
> expensive at around $32 per yard:
>
>  http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm
>
>
> Tori Ruhl  wrote:
>  Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
> Or horsehair felt for that matter.
>
> Thanks!
> Tori
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
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Status: RO

If you google it, there are many companies listed...USA.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas


> You can probably get horsehair felt at a reupholstry store. They use is 
> for making those nice comfy chairs and sofa's before they used foam.
> I know a couple of stores here in Denmark that sells horsehair canvas, but 
> that is probably not an option for you
>
> Tania
>
> Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote: I found a fabric 
> store that sells hair canvas but it is goat, not horse. And it is pretty 
> expensive at around $32 per yard:
>
>  http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm
>
>
> Tori Ruhl  wrote:
>  Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
> Or horsehair felt for that matter.
>
> Thanks!
> Tori
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:11:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The patterns at Harper House are mostly Folklore. 

Great patterns at Decades of Style, too.
http://www.decadesofstyle.com
Many of them proportioned up to larger sizes than most
of Folkware--although they (folkware) are starting to
see the light.



MaggiRos


--- "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:

> Sources would be 1926 films. Also many libraries
> have Harper's Bazaar,
> Vogue, or McCalls on microfilm if you can't find the
> gold mine of actual
> issues.  See Harper House at longago.com (I think)
> for 1920's patterns.
> 
> I'm not a '20's-holic but these sources would be
> where I would start.
> 

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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From: "Diana Habra" <renfabrics@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
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Status: RO

Tori,

I sell hair canvas that is made with goat hair and wool.  You can see it
here:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=317

It is mainly used in tailoring men's suits but may work for your project.

Diana


On 9/27/07, Tori Ruhl <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
> Or horsehair felt for that matter.
>
> Thanks!
> Tori
>
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I'm looking for black lace trim by the yard, preferably 9 inches  wide--would 
prefer it gathered, too, but would take flat and gather it  myself.  
 
Can anyone steer me to a good dealer?
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 9/27/2007 9:10:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
Tori.Ruhl@awin.com writes:

Does  anyone know where one could purchase horsehair  canvas?



Do you mean hair canvas interfacing?  It is actually wool and goat  hair, not 
horsehair.  Here is an on-line source--I've not ordered from  them, as I can 
get it locally at G Street Fabrics.
 
_http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm_ 
(http://www.habermanfabrics.com/scart/Lining_and_Interfacing.htm) 
 
Ann Wass



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Status: RO

Also, at Halloween time you should be able to get fake "stage" 
cigarettes - I think they make them as well as cigars (we got cigars 
when we had to do 20's gangsters).  They are light cardboard, have a 
dark tip with a bit of red glitter (for the ember) and are filled 
with powder - you blow gently, and you get a wisp of "smoke".

Have fun - (remembering the murder party hubby and I went to where he 
was cast as a "fashion designer who wears his own designs".  He wore 
an old Quiana formal of mine....in lavender....<g>)

Sandy

At 08:10 AM 9/27/2007, you wrote:

>From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
>
>I've been cast in a murder-mystery evening, to take place the night
>of October 26.
>
>
>From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Nouveau riche in 1926
>
>You wouldn't be too conservative--maybe a candy cigarette(if you don't
>smoke)in a showy, diamante-studded holder might be in order. Pearls
>would be a must.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
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Status: RO

I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. :) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr!
   
  I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well. 
   
  The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
   
  I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked.
   
  Thanks!
   
  Teena
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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:36:54 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
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Status: RO

At 10:31 28/09/2007, you wrote:
>I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that 
>we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. 
>:) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr!
>
>   I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress 
> for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to 
> do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well.
>
>   The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. 
> If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what 
> types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
>
>   I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would 
> full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look 
> for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too 
> thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or 
> bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked.
>


I suggest you look here (www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php) for 
suppliers in the U.K. I particularly recommend "Bernie the Bolt" as 
he supplies most of the Living History/Re-enactors in this country. 
Or you could look out for The National Living History Fair, 
(http://www.livinghistoryfayres.com/) or The Original Re-enactor's 
Market, (http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/) both usually held in 
October/November, and in the Spring, where you can go and handle and 
buy suitable fabrics.

Suzi

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 28 06:42:12 2007
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 12:42:17 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] folds in silk taffeta
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Status: RO

I have started to embroider a new custom made waistcoat.
I received the silk taffeta it is going to be made from about 1 year ago. It 
was folded down into a little square.
Today i prepared it to be patterned with the embroidery, steam ironed it on 
both sides, but the folds are still visible.
Is there a chance that those folds will disappear in time? Maybe when i 
stretch it to my embroidery frame?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c10.1d3e1992.342d0728@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black lace trim
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:44:46 -0400
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Status: RO

Don't know how much you need, but there is usually some on Cheeptrim.com. 
They do have a min. order, however.

kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 9:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Black lace trim


> I'm looking for black lace trim by the yard, preferably 9 inches 
> wide--would
> prefer it gathered, too, but would take flat and gather it  myself.
>
> Can anyone steer me to a good dealer?
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I still get paid in dollars, so I'd rather purchase from the US if I can. That means I am fairly limited to online sites or where my MIL can go. But I need to explain to her exactly what I need as she doesn't sew. But not knowing what type of wool fabric is preferred is a big problem for both scenarios.
   
  With the dollar to pound conversion it is cheaper for me to buy many things in the US. I just bought a very very nice rug in the US and had it shipped to me in England for what I could have bought a much crappier version here.
   
  But thanks for the vendor list. :) The dollar/pound situation may change in the future and I have bookmarked the various sites.

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  I suggest you look here (www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php) for 
suppliers in the U.K. I particularly recommend "Bernie the Bolt" as 
he supplies most of the Living History/Re-enactors in this country. 
Or you could look out for The National Living History Fair, 
(http://www.livinghistoryfayres.com/) or The Original Re-enactor's 
Market, (http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/) both usually held in 
October/November, and in the Spring, where you can go and handle and 
buy suitable fabrics.

Suzi
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000e01c801bc$3f640ca0$8ae73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folds in silk taffeta
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:41:18 -0400
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Status: RO

I do not know if it might stain your fabric, but there is an old time remedy 
that speaks of moistening the fold with white vinegar which is applied with 
a rough wash cloth,,,then press it gently while it is still damp. I have had 
some luck doing this in the past.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] folds in silk taffeta


>I have started to embroider a new custom made waistcoat.
> I received the silk taffeta it is going to be made from about 1 year ago. 
> It was folded down into a little square.
> Today i prepared it to be patterned with the embroidery, steam ironed it 
> on both sides, but the folds are still visible.
> Is there a chance that those folds will disappear in time? Maybe when i 
> stretch it to my embroidery frame?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: jmdpease@att.net (Jane Pease)
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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 13:07:16 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] Searching for Busk
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Thank you to those who replied to my query about a 15" busk.  I am making progress on my gown in the style of the Ditchley portrait, and actually have hope that it might someday be done.
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
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Status: RO

Beteena Paradise wrote:

>   I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband.  
>    
>   The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
>  

FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings 
and undergarments.

IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool.



Dawn
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From: Judith Bolenbaugh <ladyvonkulp@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth?

Soffya

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote:

>   I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband.  
>    
>   The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
>  

FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings 
and undergarments.

IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool.



Dawn
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From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
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Status: RO


For the 14th c. I would go with a gabardine or worsted twill, actually, 
unless you can find a lightweight woolen. Layers, rather than one heavy 
garment, are the way to go here (and accurate for the period!).

For Fashion Fabrics Club, keywords are "100% wool" and then "suiting", 
"gabardine", "worsted", "twill", and perhaps "flannel". Skip the 
tricotine--that way lies madness and tears. On fabric.com, look for wool 
gabardine and wool suiting. Those are my two favorite fabric sites.

For fulling, well, it depends on the fabric. Some are treated and some 
aren't, and that part isn't always obvious until you've washed it. I find 
that woolens are more likely to full than worsteds, in my experience.

Jen/pixel


On Fri, 28 Sep 2007, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> I've never had to make garb for a cool climate before, but now that we live in England, I think switching to wool might be a good idea. :) Especially as it was 42 F yesterday morning. Brr!
>
>  I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband. I'd also like to do some German (similar to the those portrayed in Cranach paintings) as well.
>
>  The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
>
>  I'm also interested in what types of modern wool fabrics would full well. I know that worsteds don't full and that I should look for woolens, but which are best? Flannel? Is melton/coating too thick? I'm thinking about making complex dagged hoods and/or bodices/doublets which are heavily slashed/pinked.
>
>  Thanks!
>
>  Teena
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Status: RO


"Suit weight" can be worsted or woolen. I've had modern tabby-woven 
woolens full an awful lot--something like 30%--in the wash. Worsted is 
much less likely to full.

Jen/pixel

On Fri, 28 Sep 2007, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> They won't full, or I'd be surprised if they moved more than very
> slightly. Modern fabrics, especially those types of fabrics, are
> treated so they don't full in the wash.
>
> (Now, I know there's a difference between worsting, fulling and
> felting, but I don't think it's relevant to the present
> conversation...)
>
> On 9/28/07, Judith Bolenbaugh <ladyvonkulp@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth?
>>
>> Soffya
>>
>> Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote:
>>
>>>   I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband.
>>>
>>>   The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
>>>
>>
>> FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings
>> and undergarments.
>>
>> IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
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Status: RO

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com is probably your best bet for price & 
selection, but be warned of a couple of things.  First, I've watched the 
owner as he takes a brief look and feel of unlabelled fabric before deciding 
what to sell it as--100% wool ain't always 100% wool.  Scary, no?  He may 
not care about that 2% poly or lycra, but it makes a big difference to us. 
But most of the fabric he gets is labelled, and he does know a lot about 
fabric, so it's not quite as scary as it sounds.

Second, and something that should definitely be kept in mind for all fabrics 
from that site, just because two fabrics have the exact name, description, 
and price, doesn't mean that they're the same fabric.  In fact, they're 
almost never the same fabric; once in a while he does get the same fabric in 
different colors, but it's rare indeed.  If it's really important, order 1/8 
yd as a sample.

All that said, even though my personal preference is heavily on the worsted 
side, I'd say you're definitely right about woolens being your best choice, 
and not just because of the warmth.  In the 14thC, fulled wool the hip 
fabric, and as far as I can tell from my research, the biggest difference 
that the impact of wealth would have had on the fabric choice (apart from 
dye) would have been how well (& how many times) the wool would have been 
fulled & sheared.  When I saw wool that had been thoroughly fulled & sheared 
multiple times in a period manner, I was shocked at how UNfulled it looked 
to my eye.  After that much work, I was expecting it to resemble felt (the 
way that melton does) but it wasn't the least bit felt-like and the weave 
was still clearly visible--it looked more to me like a slightly threadbare 
flannel.  (Speaking of which, flannel or some similar plain-weave woolen 
would probably be closest to the most typical 14thC choices.)

Modern woolens go through an extensive finishing process--even the cheap 
ones.  The fabric you'd be buying has already been fulled!  People (like me, 
sometimes) who buy a woolen and then immediately set off to full it are just 
fulling it MORE--it's absolutely not necessary if you just want fulled wool. 
It's already been fulled. However, as part of that finishing process, the 
amount of shrinkage allowed is strictly controlled, so if you want to shrink 
the fabric further and tighten the weave more, extra fulling is necessary, 
and might be a good idea if you plan to dag it.

Making sure that the fabric can handle your typical washing regime is 
different; you don't need to expose it to the extremes and the harsh 
treatment that are required for fulling, just in order to make sure that it 
can handle the gentle cycle.

-E House 

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

They won't full, or I'd be surprised if they moved more than very
slightly. Modern fabrics, especially those types of fabrics, are
treated so they don't full in the wash.

(Now, I know there's a difference between worsting, fulling and
felting, but I don't think it's relevant to the present
conversation...)

On 9/28/07, Judith Bolenbaugh <ladyvonkulp@yahoo.com> wrote:
> For the suit weights, would they need fulling first, since they're so smooth?
>
> Soffya
>
> Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote:
>
> >   I'd like to make some roughly 14th c stuff... gothic fitted dress for me and a cotehardie or cotte for my husband.
> >
> >   The problem is that I am not sure which modern fabrics to choose. If I were to look somewhere like fashionfabricsclub.com, on what types of fabrics should I concentrate? Or what types should I avoid?
> >
>
> FashionFabrics has some nice linen that will be good for your linings
> and undergarments.
>
> IMO melton is much too thick. You want a suit weight wool.
>
>
>
> Dawn
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>
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> Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel today!
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Subject: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
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Status: RO

http://www.joe-ks.com/archives_mar2006/SafeSexDress.htm

This dress reminded me of a request for submissions for Lark Publications 
500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art.

http://www.larkbooks.com/submissions/ArtistsEntryForms.asp


I thought some of you might just be intersted!

Sg 

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	<Pine.LNX.4.61.0709281035230.6901@rocky.itasca.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 15:24:44 -0700
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Status: RO

I just bought an 80/20 Linen Wool blend from the outlet store in Meulebeke 
Belgium for 8 Euros/yard it is at least 60."

Even if you just buy linen, the quality is fabulous....

http://www.thelinenhouse.com/EN/AboutUs_TheStores.htm

This isn't that far a drive from England these days and is totally worth 
it - the stuff from their regular store is fabulous, but expensive!

Sg 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 17:15:31 -0600
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Status: RO

At least, if you wear it on a date, you're always prepared!

On Sep 28, 2007, at 4:19 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> http://www.joe-ks.com/archives_mar2006/SafeSexDress.htm
>
> This dress reminded me of a request for submissions for Lark 
> Publications
> 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art.
>
> http://www.larkbooks.com/submissions/ArtistsEntryForms.asp
>
>
> I thought some of you might just be intersted!
>
> Sg
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 29 02:45:54 2007
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
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Status: RO

It should have been titled "How a Bra is Manufactured."  But the show =
was really good.  Did anyone see this show Friday night on the National =
Geographic Channel?  =
http://channel.nationalgeographic.com/channel/ET/popup/200709282200.html

I thought at first it was that dumb show that was on a couple of years =
ago, so I didn't start videotaping it under after the first 20 minutes.  =
But the show comes on again Sunday and I will tape it all then. =20

What the show covers:
***About 10 minutes (at most) of the history of corsets and bras.
***Silk, present day development: Vietnam: worm to cocoon--to obtaining =
the strands from the cocoons, spinning weaving, dyeing, weaving.  This =
part and the next were really interesting.
***Lycra: From the pipeline, transport to factory, mixing of chemicals =
and how they react (good example by chemist), colorants, spinning, and =
weaving.  Those who love dyes, will love this part.
***Fitting a bra properly: States that 8 out of 10 women are wearing and =
incorrect bra size.  How to measure for bra and cup sizes.  A famous NYC =
bra shop that shows how to fit a bra and for what occasions.  I would =
love to go there!  Also states how women's average bra size has =
increased dramatically over the past 15 years.  Average size now is a 36 =
C.  They do state that different types styles and manufacturers of bras =
fit differently.  The average bra is only to last three months.=20
My sidenote: {I have been so tired of salespeople only interested in =
sale instead of the quality of the fit.  I go to Williamsburg, VA to the =
Maidenform Outlet Store and their salespeople will not let you leave =
until the bra fits perfectly.  I don't know if this is a company or =
manager decision, but I love these salesladies.  Also, JC Penney's =
catalog dept. is know to carry the largest variety of bra sizes and =
cups.  It is their #1 products sold in their catalog dept.}
***Assembly of bras: Cutting and manufacturing processes of the fabric =
pieces, underwires, claps & clips.
***Science of the bra: Model wearing sensors while jogging with =
different types of bras.  This is to show which bras are good for =
exercise.  Hint: The sports bra did not win!
***All pieces of the bra, underwires and clasps are shipped to Vietnam =
to be assembled.  The bras are sewn on industrial sewing machines by =
workers.  Underwires and clasps are put on by hand. The workers change =
positions every couple of hours to keep from being bored.  I was happy =
to see this!  When I first saw the Vietnam assembly, I thought, I would =
go crazy doing that process all day long.
***Finally the bras are sent to a show for buyers from businesses.     =20
 =20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
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Status: RO

I talked with my Aunt Susie last night about ironing and keeping cotton =
and linen cool before ironing.  She was born in 1922.  I love my sweet =
aunt... she is very intelligent and her memory as clear as a bell. =20

I first asked about when they had electricity in her home.  I think this =
is important factor after watching another Modern Marvels titled =
"Wired."  I learned from the show how some rural areas of the U.S. did =
not have electricity until 1949, especially the south.  Five homes had =
to be located witin a given radius to have electric lines drawn to them. =
 My aunt grew up in Hendersonville, North Carolina in a rural area near =
a major highway.  So her family's home was wired earlier because of the =
highway, between 1928-1930.  BUT she said this not the norm for the =
area.  Some of the farms in her county were not wired until the late =
1940s. =20

She remembers an icebox in the house until 1934.  She remembers this =
because it was a big deal to have an electric refrigerator.  When she =
said this, I remembered what a big deal in my family growing up was to =
have color TV, and when I got married the milestones of having cable TV, =
microwave, a computer, and internet.  While listening to her, I thought =
how spoiled we are!   Back to Aunt Susie... she said that they washed =
clothes on scrub-boards generally in the creek until they bought an =
electric washing machine with a ringer.   The washer was kept on the =
back porch.  By the way she talked this event occurred when she was a =
teenager.  If someone was sick, her mother had a large cast-iron pot in =
the yard to boil water and wash the clothes. =20

IRONING:  They had a large cast-iron stove until she moved out after =
WW2.  The iron was placed on the stove to heat.  This was used until she =
moved away from home.  If there was clothing to be ironed and there =
wasn't enough time to do it, the wet clothing was rolled up, and placed =
in a spring box or milk box in the creek.  This same reason given, as we =
previously discussed, to decrease mildew.  The clothing was not to go =
into the frig or icebox.   The spring box / milk box was a new term!  I =
love interviewing older people to learn from their past! =20

What is a spring box / milk box? =20
It is was a large cement box in a spring to catch water in a creek / =
spring / river.   Products that would spoil easily such as milk, eggs, =
and butter were but into a spring box to keep them cool.  My aunt said =
their creek's water was cold year round.  She also commented that they =
cooled watermelons in the spring box.  The spring box was large.  The =
part that faced the creek's downsteam flow had a grate to let the water =
into the box.  The opposing end of the box had a pipe that allowed water =
to flow out.  From this point the water was piped up to their home.  The =
spring box's pipe had a flywheel that so good that it pumped water up to =
the third story in my aunt's home.  In the shallow end of the spring box =
the water was generally 4" deep and the deeper end 8".  The butter was =
kept in the shallow end and the milk in the deep end.  She stated that =
her family survived the Depression by selling milk, eggs, and butter to =
the locals.

My aunt said there was a teacher in Georgia who sent her students on =
assignment to record the old ways of doing things from the elders in the =
area.  These were published in a series named Foxfire.  My aunt owned =
two volumes of Foxfire but Hurricane Katrina took them, along with the =
rest of her home.  Aunt Susie said the series were all kinds of recipes =
and methods of how to do all sorts of things.   =20
  =20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 05:13:46 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Harper's Bazaar
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Status: RO

I have a goal to get through the stack of thirty current fashion =
magazines on my office floor.  I have been carrying magazines with me =
everywhere to read.  This week, I brought a Harper's or "W" to my =
doctor's office to pass my waiting room time.  There was a medical =
article in the issue and we were discussing it.  Then, he started =
reading the article and said that the information was correct.  The =
article was included the history of the 1300s plague.

Today, I was toting a Harper's with me while waiting to see my teenage =
daughter's French teacher and principal.  The 20-something y.o. French =
teacher came into the waiting room. =20

She asked, "What are you reading?"

I showed her the Harper's Bazaar.

She said in a snippy tone, "Oh, my mother reads that!"  I should have =
given her my noteworthy "mother's stare" over my glasses.  =20

The next time that I have a meeting with this teacher, I am going to =
bring in an 1870s issue of Harper's and say, "My great-grandmother read =
Harper's too!"  Then pull out my 1858 bound Harper's and say that her =
mother read these!

I generally past down all my present day fashion magazines to my 30 y.o. =
daughter-in-law.  I gave my DIL some magazines this past week and she =
remarked that Harper's was her favorite fashion magazine.   Harper's is =
also more than 50% of my college students' favorite fashion magazine. =20

I would love to know the average age of present day Harper's =
subscribers.  Maybe I should write Harper's for an advertising =
demographic profile.  I know Harper's has a monthly section called =
"Fabulous are Every Age," that highlights fashions for women in their =
20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and 70+.  Well, I know my 16 y.o. old daughter =
will only read the magazine,  IF Harper's is the only reading material =
in the van other than the van's owner manual.
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] questions about wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks everyone for all of the great advice!
   
  Teena
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
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Status: RO

  By the way she talked this event
> occurred when she was a teenager.  If someone was sick, her mother had a
> large cast-iron pot in the yard to boil water and wash the clothes.
> 
> from home.  If there was clothing to be ironed and there wasn't enough time
> to do it, the wet clothing was rolled up, and placed in a spring box or milk
> box in the creek.


My earliest real job (like not delivering papers) was in an industrial laundry. 
We rarely started a load late afternoon to avoid having wet clothing overnight -
- we would at most load machines and leave them dry for a quick start the next 
day. If a load was started late, it would be washed and spun but left in the 
spin drier (a thing about the size of a Volkswagon) with the lid sealed for 
what looks like a similar reason to keeping washing in the spring box.

Shows how the technology changes, not the action.

I remember from when I was a kid (not THAT long ago) we had a "copper", a 
copper tub in an iron frame for boiling clothes. I vaguley remember it being 
used to boil jeans. I wish I had one now instead of the welded galvanised iron 
rubbish bin (trash can) I lug up onto my stove for large dye jobs.

I do have one of the old stove-top irons, it makes a great doorstop; and a 
bronze iron stand which is an ornate frame the size of a sheet of writing 
paper -- I use for (you guessed it) my ironing,

-C.


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 09:19:28 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for this fascinating post, Penny!


By the way, the Foxfire Books are wonderful, and well known in some  
circles (e.g., folklorists, cultural anthropologists,  
conservationists, craftspeople, and former Hippies!). I believe you  
can still get them all, and new volumes are still being developed. Go  
to the source: http://www.foxfire.org/prodFFbooks.html

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 29, 2007, at 3:43 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I talked with my Aunt Susie last night about ironing and keeping  
> cotton and linen cool before ironing.  She was born in 1922.  I  
> love my sweet aunt... she is very intelligent and her memory as  
> clear as a bell.
>
> <snip>
> My aunt said there was a teacher in Georgia who sent her students  
> on assignment to record the old ways of doing things from the  
> elders in the area.  These were published in a series named  
> Foxfire.  My aunt owned two volumes of Foxfire but Hurricane  
> Katrina took them, along with the rest of her home.  Aunt Susie  
> said the series were all kinds of recipes and methods of how to do  
> all sorts of things.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


--- Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
wrote:

> By the way, the Foxfire Books are wonderful, and
> well known in some  
> circles (e.g., folklorists, cultural
> anthropologists,  
> conservationists, craftspeople, and former
> Hippies!). I believe you  
> can still get them all, and new volumes are still
> being developed. Go  
> to the source:
> http://www.foxfire.org/prodFFbooks.html
> 
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I ran into the Foxfire Books some fifteen years ago,
and was quite impressed at their quality.

And this was in some Northeast US library, not a
specialist bookstore or anything. :)

Ann in CT


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
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Status: RO

We too did not get electricty until 1949...the year my brother was born.(NH) 
Much of what you have described was my own experience...except the 'spring 
box'.

 I did not get to wear a fresh dress every day until I was able to iron them 
myself. Pressing cloths and the sprinkling bottle were old familiars.  The 
trick in warm weather was to get to the prepared ironing pile before mildew 
set in...then one would need to practice all the old remedies to treat it. 
In the early '50s we set our full skirts with sugar water as stiffner (or 
potato or pasta water).

When we got 'wired', mother got a wringer washer and we had to learn how to 
deal with fancy plastic buttons that were regularly killed if we didn't fold 
them in carefully before they slipped between the rollers.

Kathleen



---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 3:43 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited


I talked with my Aunt Susie last night about ironing and keeping cotton and 
linen cool before ironing.  She was born in 1922.  I love my sweet aunt... 
she is very intelligent and her memory as clear as a bell.

I first asked about when they had electricity in her home.  I think this is 
important factor after watching another Modern Marvels titled "Wired."  I 
learned from the show how some rural areas of the U.S. did not have 
electricity until 1949, especially the south.  Five homes had to be located 
witin a given radius to have electric lines drawn to them.  My aunt grew up 
in Hendersonville, North Carolina in a rural area near a major highway.  So 
her family's home was wired earlier because of the highway, between 
1928-1930.  BUT she said this not the norm for the area.  Some of the farms 
in her county were not wired until the late 1940s.

She remembers an icebox in the house until 1934.  She remembers this because 
it was a big deal to have an electric refrigerator.  When she said this, I 
remembered what a big deal in my family growing up was to have color TV, and 
when I got married the milestones of having cable TV, microwave, a computer, 
and internet.  While listening to her, I thought how spoiled we are!   Back 
to Aunt Susie... she said that they washed clothes on scrub-boards generally 
in the creek until they bought an electric washing machine with a ringer. 
The washer was kept on the back porch.  By the way she talked this event 
occurred when she was a teenager.  If someone was sick, her mother had a 
large cast-iron pot in the yard to boil water and wash the clothes.

IRONING:  They had a large cast-iron stove until she moved out after WW2. 
The iron was placed on the stove to heat.  This was used until she moved 
away from home.  If there was clothing to be ironed and there wasn't enough 
time to do it, the wet clothing was rolled up, and placed in a spring box or 
milk box in the creek.  This same reason given, as we previously discussed, 
to decrease mildew.  The clothing was not to go into the frig or icebox. 
The spring box / milk box was a new term!  I love interviewing older people 
to learn from their past!

What is a spring box / milk box?
It is was a large cement box in a spring to catch water in a creek / spring 
/ river.   Products that would spoil easily such as milk, eggs, and butter 
were but into a spring box to keep them cool.  My aunt said their creek's 
water was cold year round.  She also commented that they cooled watermelons 
in the spring box.  The spring box was large.  The part that faced the 
creek's downsteam flow had a grate to let the water into the box.  The 
opposing end of the box had a pipe that allowed water to flow out.  From 
this point the water was piped up to their home.  The spring box's pipe had 
a flywheel that so good that it pumped water up to the third story in my 
aunt's home.  In the shallow end of the spring box the water was generally 
4" deep and the deeper end 8".  The butter was kept in the shallow end and 
the milk in the deep end.  She stated that her family survived the 
Depression by selling milk, eggs, and butter to the locals.

My aunt said there was a teacher in Georgia who sent her students on 
assignment to record the old ways of doing things from the elders in the 
area.  These were published in a series named Foxfire.  My aunt owned two 
volumes of Foxfire but Hurricane Katrina took them, along with the rest of 
her home.  Aunt Susie said the series were all kinds of recipes and methods 
of how to do all sorts of things.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
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Status: RO

Now, if only they could make the underwires STAY in the bra and not poke  
through....
 
Kathleen Norvell



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Subject: [h-cost] looky what I found
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Status: RO

Was looking for ideas for another era but found this.
http://tinyurl.com/2e8x72

http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/schwaben/schloesser/ludwigsburg/m
ode/rundgang/mieder01.htm

De


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 23:31:08 -0700
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Status: RO

I have an interesting cookbook, "Notes from a Country Kitchen", which has a
nice photo of an old dairy with a marble slab with a 4" wide channel around
it. Water was piped in to run around the slab, which kept it cool. You put
prepared desserts, junkets, syllabubs, etc. on it to keep them cool. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 12:43 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Ironing: Revisited

I talked with my Aunt Susie last night about ironing and keeping cotton and
linen cool before ironing.  She was born in 1922.  I love my sweet aunt...
she is very intelligent and her memory as clear as a bell.  

I first asked about when they had electricity in her home.  I think this is
important factor after watching another Modern Marvels titled "Wired."  I
learned from the show how some rural areas of the U.S. did not have
electricity until 1949, especially the south.  Five homes had to be located
witin a given radius to have electric lines drawn to them.  My aunt grew up
in Hendersonville, North Carolina in a rural area near a major highway.  So
her family's home was wired earlier because of the highway, between
1928-1930.  BUT she said this not the norm for the area.  Some of the farms
in her county were not wired until the late 1940s.  

She remembers an icebox in the house until 1934.  She remembers this because
it was a big deal to have an electric refrigerator.  When she said this, I
remembered what a big deal in my family growing up was to have color TV, and
when I got married the milestones of having cable TV, microwave, a computer,
and internet.  While listening to her, I thought how spoiled we are!   Back
to Aunt Susie... she said that they washed clothes on scrub-boards generally
in the creek until they bought an electric washing machine with a ringer.
The washer was kept on the back porch.  By the way she talked this event
occurred when she was a teenager.  If someone was sick, her mother had a
large cast-iron pot in the yard to boil water and wash the clothes.  

IRONING:  They had a large cast-iron stove until she moved out after WW2.
The iron was placed on the stove to heat.  This was used until she moved
away from home.  If there was clothing to be ironed and there wasn't enough
time to do it, the wet clothing was rolled up, and placed in a spring box or
milk box in the creek.  This same reason given, as we previously discussed,
to decrease mildew.  The clothing was not to go into the frig or icebox.
The spring box / milk box was a new term!  I love interviewing older people
to learn from their past!  

What is a spring box / milk box?  
It is was a large cement box in a spring to catch water in a creek / spring
/ river.   Products that would spoil easily such as milk, eggs, and butter
were but into a spring box to keep them cool.  My aunt said their creek's
water was cold year round.  She also commented that they cooled watermelons
in the spring box.  The spring box was large.  The part that faced the
creek's downsteam flow had a grate to let the water into the box.  The
opposing end of the box had a pipe that allowed water to flow out.  From
this point the water was piped up to their home.  The spring box's pipe had
a flywheel that so good that it pumped water up to the third story in my
aunt's home.  In the shallow end of the spring box the water was generally
4" deep and the deeper end 8".  The butter was kept in the shallow end and
the milk in the deep end.  She stated that her family survived the
Depression by selling milk, eggs, and butter to the locals.

My aunt said there was a teacher in Georgia who sent her students on
assignment to record the old ways of doing things from the elders in the
area.  These were published in a series named Foxfire.  My aunt owned two
volumes of Foxfire but Hurricane Katrina took them, along with the rest of
her home.  Aunt Susie said the series were all kinds of recipes and methods
of how to do all sorts of things.    
   
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 16:31:52 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art


> At least, if you wear it on a date, you're always prepared!
> 
no, they would all  have holes in them from being sewn together :)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
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Status: RO

Appin1@aol.com wrote:
> Now, if only they could make the underwires STAY in the bra and not poke  
> through...
>   


I'm working on making sure my bamboo (skewer) boning stays in my 
kataginu and doesn't poke through...

It's not like it's a new problem. It's just been relocated.

andy

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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
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Status: RO

> >>
> > no, they would all  have holes in them from being sewn together :)
> 

Jeeze, everyone complains about fabrics that don't breathe and as soon as you 
get something with some ventilation...!

-C.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
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Status: RO

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
>
>
>> At least, if you wear it on a date, you're always prepared!
>>
> no, they would all  have holes in them from being sewn together :)

You're sure it's not glued?

(not that it doesn't introduce new chemical problems...)

andy

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From: zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 07:37:08 -0700
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Status: RO


I found it interesting that they made mention of the increase in cup size. =
 Did they investigate, I wonder, the phenomenon of breast enhancement and /=
or increase in general bodyweight for the same period of time?
=20
Laurie
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Or maybe all the hormones in everything?
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of zelda crusher
Sent: Sun 9/30/2007 10:37 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra




I found it interesting that they made mention of the increase in cup =
size.  Did they investigate, I wonder, the phenomenon of breast =
enhancement and /or increase in general bodyweight for the same period =
of time?

Laurie
_________________________________________________________________
Invite your mail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live =
Spaces. It's easy!
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Status: RO

Looking forward to events in our community for a formal tea during the Belle
Epoch era, may I ask for assistance from the collective wisdom of this list
in appropriate dress?  Your suggestions are most welcome
Ann

-- 
What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean Jacques
Rousseau
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Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:22:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] hose pattern help
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Status: RO

Hi, I'm just about to make 15th century hose, this style (rather not split, however): 

http://www.historicenterprises.com/misc/refpics/testard_pourpoint.jpg

I have some patterns in the Tudor tailor and A.Harmand's book, but I'm not very sure about enlarging it to fit the man's figure, I don't actually know how exactly shall I do it...

...so I thought about buying some commercial pattern for the start and then fit the hose to the body. 

I know the tudor tailor webpage sells some and mediaval miscellanea too, maybe other companies? Have you tried any of such patterns? What experience did you have? What would be the best one to choose?

The man I'm doing it for is slim, about 20 years old, if that'll help you:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana


       
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Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:51:37 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] belle epoch tea gown
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Status: RO

These are some of the most amazing gowns ever conceived and made. They are  
usually white...but sheer with some color [or not] underneath so they appear  
shimmery pastels. I've also seen actual pastel colored ones. Tucks,  lace 
inserts, applique, embroidery....any one, any combo or all of the above can  
happen. 
I remember one at the Belle Epoch exhibit years ago at the Met Museum that  
had viewers regularly tripping the security alarm as they inched closer and  
closer to see the hand applique work on it. It was breathtaking! A simple gown  
of the fashionable high  waisted column-with-poofy-draped-bodice silhouette in 
very very fine  white linen over a blond coffee colored foundation. The 
entire thing had  scrolling vines and leaves all over it in applique of the same 
linen... so there  were two layers there [the colored foundation really helped 
show off the  applique]...hand stitched on with Turkey Work...y'know that 
technique you  usually see on hems where you pull the sewing thread tight enough to 
make  little holes where each stitch is. The stems of the applique were very  
narrow....like almost 1/16th of an inch! The long slender leaves along the  
swirling stems had a center vein and some branching from it done in stem  
stitch. The gown was completely covered in this delicate, painstaking work. It  was 
beautifully accessorized with a huge black hat with white feathers, black  
high button shoes, black gloves and black parasol.
So you can make a "simple" one out of a single outrageously  beautiful [and 
no doubt expensive] fabric. The way to help it not look like a  wedding dress 
is with colored or black accessories



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looky what I found
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Status: RO

Hi,
Yes i heard when i was at Bayreuth that Ludvigsburg is a must when you are 
interrested in Costume. They have the greatest collection in all Germany.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] looky what I found


> Was looking for ideas for another era but found this.
> http://tinyurl.com/2e8x72
>
> http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/schwaben/schloesser/ludwigsburg/m
> ode/rundgang/mieder01.htm
>
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:03:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

They seemed very sketchy on almost everything,
although the bit on silk produciton was interesting.

They did mention that the increase may be at least in
part due to implants and obesity, but then just
wandered off into something else. If they investigated
anything, they spent very little time on it. 

>From this documentary you'd think there wasn't any
kind of attempt at a support garment between Roman
breast bands and the 18th century corset, then a quick
jump straight to latex. And the "5 interesting things
about bras" were old wives tales, which they could
have either debunked or backed up with a story (if not
exactly evidence). But they again just wandered away.

As a history, I found it seriously lacking.

MaggiRos

--- zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com> wrote:

> 
> I found it interesting that they made mention of the
> increase in cup size.  Did they investigate, I
> wonder, the phenomenon of breast enhancement and /or
> increase in general bodyweight for the same period
> of time?
>  

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Status: RO

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I know the tudor tailor webpage sells some and mediaval miscellanea too, maybe other companies? Have you tried any of such patterns? What experience did you have? What would be the best one to choose?
> 

I used the Medieval Misc pattern about 20 *cough* years ago and had no 
trouble with it. However, I can't compare it to other patterns. It was 
cut on the bias and I thought, at the time, it worked well.

I'd suggest picking one and making a test in a cheap, but similar fabric 
to the one you plan to use. Then you can make adjustments and do a 
little fitting before cutting your good fabric.

> The man I'm doing it for is slim, about 20 years old, if that'll help you:-)
> 

That'll save you having to fit around an extended belly, at least.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] belle epoch tea gown
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Status: RO

Are you the Hostess or a visitor?  Some teagowns are strictly for the Lady 
giving the party.

Fran has some lovely possibilities for both in The Voice Of Fashion...with 
pattern shapes.  Of course, the Visitor would be in the latest ton with hat, 
glove, perhaps lorgnette, and etc.  have fun.  There are some etiquette 
books  of that time period to bring you up to date for dress and deportment 
for a Tea.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ann marie" <bestinterests@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] belle epoch tea gown


> Looking forward to events in our community for a formal tea during the 
> Belle
> Epoch era, may I ask for assistance from the collective wisdom of this 
> list
> in appropriate dress?  Your suggestions are most welcome
> Ann
>
> -- 
> What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean 
> Jacques
> Rousseau
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO


> 
> Fran has some lovely possibilities for both in The Voice Of 
> Fashion...with pattern shapes.  Of course, the Visitor would be in the 
> latest ton with hat, glove, perhaps lorgnette, and etc.  have fun.  
> There are some etiquette books  of that time period to bring you up to 
> date for dress and deportment for a Tea.

Thanks, Kathleen.  I think there are also some in The Edwardian Modiste.

Three points:

A morning wrapper and a tea gown were often the same basic style. The 
difference wass in the materials and decorations.  Flannel, printed 
calico, fairly sturdy white cottons, etc. were for wrappers.  Soft 
silks, large quantities of lace and embroidery, etc. were for tea gowns.

Neither a tea gown nor a wrapper is ever worn when going from one place 
to another. In other words, no one who was not living, or at least 
staying as a guest in the house, would be wearing one.

Tea gowns, and to some extent wrappers, were clothing for married women 
(and invalids who were too ill to dress fully).  This really is a 
marital status distinction, not an age distinction.  Throughout the 19th 
century into the early 20th, a middle- or upper-class woman's career was 
(on the whole and with individual exceptions) marriage.  This made it 
important to distinguish married women and unmarried young ladies by 
their clothing. Married women, widows, and spinsters who had given up 
were permitted to wear richer and more luxurious garments. Unmarried 
young ladies were supposed to look modest, but at the same time 
available. In this case wearing a lingeriesh garment at a tea party, 
especially  with gentlemen present, would look too available and not 
sufficiently modest.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com









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Subject: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
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Status: RO

That's interesting...I had been Thinking, this last year or so, that it 
seemed to me that teen girls seemed to be bustier than I remembered from 
the 70s.  I had been shrugging it off to the general chubbiness of the 
population, but this summer & fall I was really trying to notice, and it 
really did seem that more of the slender girls were bigger than I would 
expect.  Then last weekend I went to my first high school football game 
in 20 years.  I didn't need to pay attention to the game, since the 
nephew was on the sidelines recuperating from an injury.  Folks, I 
_know_ this crowd.  These are the grandkids & the kids of the families I 
went to school with.  (And wasn't that its own mind-blowing little trip, 
but I digress.)  Familiar names, faces, and bodies... but with bigger 
breasts.  Something, or somethings, is different.  There was definitely 
more boobage than there used to be.  I don't mean skin on display, I 
mean cubic inches.  There was definitely a shortage of candidates for 
the teeny tiny titty committee.  Very odd indeed.  I don't know how much 
is hormones in the diet, how much is medical enhancement, & how much is 
wonderbras, but the landscape was hillier than I used to see.  And lots 
of those girls were NOT wearing any bra, let alone anything that could 
give that much boost.

Your intrigued,

Mary Piero Carey

>   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
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> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:33:44 -0400> From: mary.doug@pierocarey.info> T=
o: h-costume@indra.com> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes> >> th=
e teeny tiny titty committee>=20
> > > >=20
(picks self up after a good long ROFL) Thank you for that little linguistic=
 treat, Mary!
=20
Laurie
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
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Status: RO

[major soap boxing approaching ...]

This is exactly what I was telling the Jockey Rep online this past week.

My 12 year old daughter is ready for a training bra. She is 5'2 and a 32a,
she is sooooo different from her current counterparts in JR HIGH!!! AAA!!!!
They are bearly 5ft tall with busts of 32c's and up wearing underwire bras!

I so feel for my daughter, to be different in Jr. High is a death sentence
to many girls. It breaks my heart.

In the conversation with the Jockey rep she let me know that the local
stores to me in the entire DFW area are NOT ordering the Jockey trainer bra.
That there is a trend to order bras for teens with underwire because of 1)
Obese girls at this age and 2) They are not selling anything that is not
wired.

If I want a bra with no underwire or stiffen support ala Victoria's Secret
new wireless line I have to order it online. Either that or I can keep her
in sports bras. I fear that if I do that she will lose her shape and droop
long before she is 15.

I am just not ready to have my non-obese daughter to be forced into a bra
that is being designed for a larger ribcage and bust line and added wire
support for it.

[major soap boxing off]

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:34 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes

That's interesting...I had been Thinking, this last year or so, that it 
seemed to me that teen girls seemed to be bustier than I remembered from 
the 70s.  I had been shrugging it off to the general chubbiness of the 
population, but this summer & fall I was really trying to notice, and it 
really did seem that more of the slender girls were bigger than I would 
expect.  Then last weekend I went to my first high school football game 
in 20 years.  I didn't need to pay attention to the game, since the 
nephew was on the sidelines recuperating from an injury.  Folks, I 
_know_ this crowd.  These are the grandkids & the kids of the families I 
went to school with.  (And wasn't that its own mind-blowing little trip, 
but I digress.)  Familiar names, faces, and bodies... but with bigger 
breasts.  Something, or somethings, is different.  There was definitely 
more boobage than there used to be.  I don't mean skin on display, I 
mean cubic inches.  There was definitely a shortage of candidates for 
the teeny tiny titty committee.  Very odd indeed.  I don't know how much 
is hormones in the diet, how much is medical enhancement, & how much is 
wonderbras, but the landscape was hillier than I used to see.  And lots 
of those girls were NOT wearing any bra, let alone anything that could 
give that much boost.

Your intrigued,

Mary Piero Carey

>   
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