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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 03:13:26 -0400
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Status: ROr

Franchesca,

Give your daughter a hug from me.  All my friends in 8th grade were wearing 
bras and I didn't have a thing to put in one until I was in 11th grade.  I 
learned later in life that being small chested was a blessing.  My DIL also 
feels the same way.  My youngest sister was well developed before any of my 
other sisters.  Baby Sis is six years younger than me.

My mother used to say, "Wait until you have a baby and they will come." 
When that did work after my first child, she said, "Wait until you are 
middle-aged, and they will come."

After son #2 was born, I refused to breast fed, then they "came in" 
engorged.  The pain was unbelievable!  I decided that I would be happy with 
what I have.  MY DIL used to wear a size 0 dress, and after her second 
child, she became engorged.  She said that she never wanted bigger breast 
again.

When I was pregnant with son #4, I was living with my MIL.  He was an active 
child and loved to run his feet into my ribs.  This caused my bra to move 
upward and I complained to my MIL.  She was WELL-endowed and said, "Honey, 
if I had as little as you, I would NEVER wear a bra."  I got it!  Official 
permission from my MIL to not wear a bra!!!  This was 1985 so the no bra 
fashion of the 1970s made it acceptable.  I have probably worn a bra 50 
times, at most, since then.  My breast have not sagged and are still like 
they were in my 20s. I gave my MIL official permission to my DIL to not wear 
a bra and she doesn't wear one now.  What my MIL said not upset me.  She 
immediately showed me the reason.  She pulled up her blouse and showed me 
the heat rash under her breast, and the deep cut sores on her shoulders from 
her bra straps.  She said that she has had them for years and they were very 
painful.  My mother is large chested and showed me the same problems that 
bras have done to her.  Last year, my mother told me that her petite chested 
mother never wore a bra and looked great her whole life.  This was the 
greatest gift my MIL ever gave me.  I have never found a bra that fits me 
correctly.

If you are an A cup, you really do not need to wear a bra. But I understand 
the teenagers wanting to be in bras when everyone else is wearing them.  If 
you really want to put your daughter in something, try a sports bra.  My 
daughter hated training bras but loved sports bras.

Today a lot of the teenagers to young adults are not real!  They are 
enhanced and this is socially acceptable.  We live in the fake generation. 
Fake hair, tans, boobs, hair-color, bleached teeth, etc.

There are ways of hiding not wearing a bra (the nipple issue.)
***I started growing my hair long after son #4 was born.  My hair has been 
below breast length since 1986.  I never had it trimmed shorter since.  Also 
son #4 when a baby would go to sleep holding my braid.  Until he was five 
years old and he was upset he would sit in my lap and pet my long braid.
***I wear t-shirts around the house.  When I first started not wearing a 
bra, I made sure the t-shirt had a pocket or printed logo on the front.  The 
opposing side of  the pocket, is where my braid or ponytail resides.  If my 
shirt/blouse does not have a pocket or logo, I let my hair down.
***A Maidenform saleslady taught me this one.  Don't purchase those fancy 
flesh colored stickers to go over the nipples.  Only purchase the fancy ones 
for hot dates!  Go to the drug store or supermarket and purchase large 
Band-Aids. They generally come 10 to a box for a dollar or two. I use the 
store brands made of plastic.  The cloth ones have too much adhesive and can 
cause bruising or irritation when removing.  Also remove the Band-Aids while 
taking a bath.  Put a little baby oil on the breast after removal.  The 
removes all the band glue and moisturizes the skin.  For a person with small 
nipples, you can cut the Band-Aids in half lengthwise and use the remainder 
on the other breast.  Someone with larger nipples, use the entire band on 
each breast.

I have professionally dressed many of ladies and teenagers over the years. 
Here are some of the tricks of the trade for enlargement:

***I once had a student crying in the bathroom because her chest did not 
fill out a dress that she had to wear immediately.  I am a pro at "making 
boobs."  I pulled some tissue paper and increased  boob size the 
old-fashioned way.  Needless to say, she stopped crying.
***This is my newest solution! Most of the cammies with an open space to 
slip pads in.  There are also cups like a bra without straps or a back that 
will slide into cammies easily.  But they do have a piece or elastic joining 
the cups.  I have also sewn cups into some evening dresses.
***Another solution that I use, is to purchase these empire waisted tops 
with the cups built in without underwires.  I wear them under close fitting 
tops.  These tops come in various colors and have spaghetti straps. I have 
found at Macy's and JC Penneys.  I purchased every color available.  The 
down side to these tops, I have found very few with cups stitched into bust. 
When you wash them, the pad will fold over like a shoulder pad.  You either 
have to stitch the pads in place from the back lining or pin them in place 
prior to washing.
***My kits has several breast pads in various cup sizes.  I purchase them at 
Hancock Fabrics.  If I am working a play, before dress rehearsal, I buy pad 
that they have in stock.  The key to cleavage, is to put the pads under the 
breast and slightly toward the armpit in a bra cup. Make sure the wearer 
pulls "the girls up" before putting the pads in.  This pushes the breast up 
better than an underwire and they look more natural.  My first play, I 
purchased the pads for two actresses.  After the other actresses saw how 
nice the two actresses looked, they came in begging me (in their words) to 
"make boobs" for them.  After that play, I have been know locally as the 
person who can make boobs.
***You can also purchase the "Natural."  I have only used these once.  They 
adhere to the breast and feel like real breast but do not breathe.  So you 
can fell hot quickly.
***In magazines, film, etc. They are using spray-on cleavage.  They are 
actually spraying a line down the center of the chest in a darker shade than 
the person's skin color to create a shadow.  This process is also used to 
create abs on stomachs for those diet advertisements and music videos.

My daughter has the opposite problem of yours.  She started blooming at 10 
y.o.  Her doctor told me that when girls chests start blooming, that their 
period will start generally one year later.  And it did.  I asked why girls 
are starting their period so early.  He said because of livestock being 
given steroids and antibiotics.  He also stated that many GYN doctors are 
prescribing hormones to girls in puberty to control mood swings.  Hormones 
are being prescribed as young as 11-12 y.o girls.  A good majority of my 
daughter's friend have been on hormones in puberty.

When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told us that if 
you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next number and down a 
cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did this because the selection 
in styles were limited at her true size.  Another test if a bra is fitting 
correctly is if the chest strap between the breast lays flat against the 
chest.  If the strap is away from the center chest, the bra is not the 
correct size.

When my daughter first needed a bra, we had a hard time finding bras.  I was 
pulling my hair out.  I can say, do not go to The Gap for trainer bras. 
Also Victoria's Secret measured her incorrectly.  Training bras should not 
be expensive.  They want way too much for them.  Sears does have a nice 
selection.  I found a bigger selection a KMart.  This was before Sears 
bought KMart but you might want to check there.  When you find a brand of 
bras that she does like and they fit well, stick with it!

I hate underwires for the same reasons as others..the poking problem.  I 
take a seam ripper and make a small cut to remove them.

One TV series that shows how a bra should probably fit is "Tim Gunn's Guide 
to Style" (TGGTS.)  It is on Bravo! Thursday nights.  They are only six 
episodes and I believe this Thursday is episode 5, then Project Runway 
begins.  The first two episodes really shows how to know if a bra fits 
properly.  If you don't catch it repeating during the day, let me know.  I 
have been videotaping the show and can loan you my copies.  I agree with the 
show that everyone needs a good foundation.  Some parts of the show I don't 
agree with.  But the foundation is very important.  Today a women shouldn't 
have to suffer with an ill-fitting bra.  When the woman on the show has a 
proper fitting bras, the co-host or Tim calls it "happy bra face."  I have 
to laugh because I saw my daughter with the happy bra face last month on our 
shopping trip.

Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that everyone's bust 
is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely rounded, some have more 
tissue underneath and to the sides, etc.  That is why if you find a bra 
manufacturer that you like, stick with them.  Most manufacturers do not 
change their cup sizing molds for years.

Good luck Franchesca!  Remember to have a lot of patience.  As frustrated as 
you are, your daughter is probably twice as much.  I really feel for single 
fathers when they take their puberty-age daughters bra shopping!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:27 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes


> [major soap boxing approaching ...]
>
> This is exactly what I was telling the Jockey Rep online this past week.
>
> My 12 year old daughter is ready for a training bra. She is 5'2 and a 32a,
> she is sooooo different from her current counterparts in JR HIGH!!! 
> AAA!!!!
> They are bearly 5ft tall with busts of 32c's and up wearing underwire 
> bras!
>
> I so feel for my daughter, to be different in Jr. High is a death sentence
> to many girls. It breaks my heart.
>
> In the conversation with the Jockey rep she let me know that the local
> stores to me in the entire DFW area are NOT ordering the Jockey trainer 
> bra.
> That there is a trend to order bras for teens with underwire because of 1)
> Obese girls at this age and 2) They are not selling anything that is not
> wired.
>
> If I want a bra with no underwire or stiffen support ala Victoria's Secret
> new wireless line I have to order it online. Either that or I can keep her
> in sports bras. I fear that if I do that she will lose her shape and droop
> long before she is 15.
>
> I am just not ready to have my non-obese daughter to be forced into a bra
> that is being designed for a larger ribcage and bust line and added wire
> support for it.
>
> [major soap boxing off]
>
> Chiara Francesca
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:34 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
>
> That's interesting...I had been Thinking, this last year or so, that it
> seemed to me that teen girls seemed to be bustier than I remembered from
> the 70s.  I had been shrugging it off to the general chubbiness of the
> population, but this summer & fall I was really trying to notice, and it
> really did seem that more of the slender girls were bigger than I would
> expect.  Then last weekend I went to my first high school football game
> in 20 years.  I didn't need to pay attention to the game, since the
> nephew was on the sidelines recuperating from an injury.  Folks, I
> _know_ this crowd.  These are the grandkids & the kids of the families I
> went to school with.  (And wasn't that its own mind-blowing little trip,
> but I digress.)  Familiar names, faces, and bodies... but with bigger
> breasts.  Something, or somethings, is different.  There was definitely
> more boobage than there used to be.  I don't mean skin on display, I
> mean cubic inches.  There was definitely a shortage of candidates for
> the teeny tiny titty committee.  Very odd indeed.  I don't know how much
> is hormones in the diet, how much is medical enhancement, & how much is
> wonderbras, but the landscape was hillier than I used to see.  And lots
> of those girls were NOT wearing any bra, let alone anything that could
> give that much boost.
>
> Your intrigued,
>
> Mary Piero Carey
>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

I am sending my message again.  I am sorry for two things.  First apology, 
some of you may not have received my first message because "s-p-a-m"was 
written in the subject header. Below is my reply again.  Sometimes my 
anti-spamware tags okay messages with the word spam in the subject header. 
I replied and forgot to remove the word from the header.  My second apology 
is to those on digest mode.  I forgot to delete out the old messages from 
the tail of my message.  I was on digest mode last week and know what a pain 
it is when people do not delete out the old message when replying.

For those who missed this the first time...
> Franchesca,
>
> Give your daughter a hug from me.  All my friends in 8th grade were 
> wearing bras and I didn't have a thing to put in one until I was in 11th 
> grade.  I learned later in life that being small chested was a blessing. 
> My DIL also feels the same way.  My youngest sister was well developed 
> before any of my other sisters.  Baby Sis is six years younger than me.
>
> My mother used to say, "Wait until you have a baby and they will come." 
> When that did work after my first child, she said, "Wait until you are 
> middle-aged, and they will come."
>
> After son #2 was born, I refused to breast fed, then they "came in" 
> engorged.  The pain was unbelievable!  I decided that I would be happy 
> with what I have.  MY DIL used to wear a size 0 dress, and after her 
> second child, she became engorged.  She said that she never wanted bigger 
> breast again.
>
> When I was pregnant with son #4, I was living with my MIL.  He was an 
> active child and loved to run his feet into my ribs.  This caused my bra 
> to move upward and I complained to my MIL.  She was WELL-endowed and said, 
> "Honey, if I had as little as you, I would NEVER wear a bra."  I got it! 
> Official permission from my MIL to not wear a bra!!!  This was 1985 so the 
> no bra fashion of the 1970s made it acceptable.  I have probably worn a 
> bra 50 times, at most, since then.  My breast have not sagged and are 
> still like they were in my 20s. I gave my MIL official permission to my 
> DIL to not wear a bra and she doesn't wear one now.  What my MIL said not 
> upset me.  She immediately showed me the reason.  She pulled up her blouse 
> and showed me the heat rash under her breast, and the deep cut sores on 
> her shoulders from her bra straps.  She said that she has had them for 
> years and they were very painful.  My mother is large chested and showed 
> me the same problems that bras have done to her.  Last year, my mother 
> told me that her petite chested mother never wore a bra and looked great 
> her whole life.  This was the greatest gift my MIL ever gave me.  I have 
> never found a bra that fits me correctly.
>
> If you are an A cup, you really do not need to wear a bra. But I 
> understand the teenagers wanting to be in bras when everyone else is 
> wearing them.  If you really want to put your daughter in something, try a 
> sports bra.  My daughter hated training bras but loved sports bras.
>
> Today a lot of the teenagers to young adults are not real!  They are 
> enhanced and this is socially acceptable.  We live in the fake generation. 
> Fake hair, tans, boobs, hair-color, bleached teeth, etc.
>
> There are ways of hiding not wearing a bra (the nipple issue.)
> ***I started growing my hair long after son #4 was born.  My hair has been 
> below breast length since 1986.  I never had it trimmed shorter since. 
> Also son #4 when a baby would go to sleep holding my braid.  Until he was 
> five years old and he was upset he would sit in my lap and pet my long 
> braid.
> ***I wear t-shirts around the house.  When I first started not wearing a 
> bra, I made sure the t-shirt had a pocket or printed logo on the front. 
> The opposing side of  the pocket, is where my braid or ponytail resides. 
> If my shirt/blouse does not have a pocket or logo, I let my hair down.
> ***A Maidenform saleslady taught me this one.  Don't purchase those fancy 
> flesh colored stickers to go over the nipples.  Only purchase the fancy 
> ones for hot dates!  Go to the drug store or supermarket and purchase 
> large Band-Aids. They generally come 10 to a box for a dollar or two. I 
> use the store brands made of plastic.  The cloth ones have too much 
> adhesive and can cause bruising or irritation when removing.  Also remove 
> the Band-Aids while taking a bath.  Put a little baby oil on the breast 
> after removal.  The removes all the band glue and moisturizes the skin. 
> For a person with small nipples, you can cut the Band-Aids in half 
> lengthwise and use the remainder on the other breast.  Someone with larger 
> nipples, use the entire band on each breast.
>
> I have professionally dressed many of ladies and teenagers over the years. 
> Here are some of the tricks of the trade for enlargement:
>
> ***I once had a student crying in the bathroom because her chest did not 
> fill out a dress that she had to wear immediately.  I am a pro at "making 
> boobs."  I pulled some tissue paper and increased  boob size the 
> old-fashioned way.  Needless to say, she stopped crying.
> ***This is my newest solution! Most of the cammies with an open space to 
> slip pads in.  There are also cups like a bra without straps or a back 
> that will slide into cammies easily.  But they do have a piece or elastic 
> joining the cups.  I have also sewn cups into some evening dresses.
> ***Another solution that I use, is to purchase these empire waisted tops 
> with the cups built in without underwires.  I wear them under close 
> fitting tops.  These tops come in various colors and have spaghetti 
> straps. I have found at Macy's and JC Penneys.  I purchased every color 
> available.  The down side to these tops, I have found very few with cups 
> stitched into bust. When you wash them, the pad will fold over like a 
> shoulder pad.  You either have to stitch the pads in place from the back 
> lining or pin them in place prior to washing.
> ***My kits has several breast pads in various cup sizes.  I purchase them 
> at Hancock Fabrics.  If I am working a play, before dress rehearsal, I buy 
> pad that they have in stock.  The key to cleavage, is to put the pads 
> under the breast and slightly toward the armpit in a bra cup. Make sure 
> the wearer pulls "the girls up" before putting the pads in.  This pushes 
> the breast up better than an underwire and they look more natural.  My 
> first play, I purchased the pads for two actresses.  After the other 
> actresses saw how nice the two actresses looked, they came in begging me 
> (in their words) to "make boobs" for them.  After that play, I have been 
> know locally as the person who can make boobs.
> ***You can also purchase the "Natural."  I have only used these once. 
> They adhere to the breast and feel like real breast but do not breathe. 
> So you can fell hot quickly.
> ***In magazines, film, etc. They are using spray-on cleavage.  They are 
> actually spraying a line down the center of the chest in a darker shade 
> than the person's skin color to create a shadow.  This process is also 
> used to create abs on stomachs for those diet advertisements and music 
> videos.
>
> My daughter has the opposite problem of yours.  She started blooming at 10 
> y.o.  Her doctor told me that when girls chests start blooming, that their 
> period will start generally one year later.  And it did.  I asked why 
> girls are starting their period so early.  He said because of livestock 
> being given steroids and antibiotics.  He also stated that many GYN 
> doctors are prescribing hormones to girls in puberty to control mood 
> swings.  Hormones are being prescribed as young as 11-12 y.o girls.  A 
> good majority of my daughter's friend have been on hormones in puberty.
>
> When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told us that 
> if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next number and 
> down a cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did this because the 
> selection in styles were limited at her true size.  Another test if a bra 
> is fitting correctly is if the chest strap between the breast lays flat 
> against the chest.  If the strap is away from the center chest, the bra is 
> not the correct size.
>
> When my daughter first needed a bra, we had a hard time finding bras.  I 
> was pulling my hair out.  I can say, do not go to The Gap for trainer 
> bras. Also Victoria's Secret measured her incorrectly.  Training bras 
> should not be expensive.  They want way too much for them.  Sears does 
> have a nice selection.  I found a bigger selection a KMart.  This was 
> before Sears bought KMart but you might want to check there.  When you 
> find a brand of bras that she does like and they fit well, stick with it!
>
> I hate underwires for the same reasons as others..the poking problem.  I 
> take a seam ripper and make a small cut to remove them.
>
> One TV series that shows how a bra should probably fit is "Tim Gunn's 
> Guide to Style" (TGGTS.)  It is on Bravo! Thursday nights.  They are only 
> six episodes and I believe this Thursday is episode 5, then Project Runway 
> begins.  The first two episodes really shows how to know if a bra fits 
> properly.  If you don't catch it repeating during the day, let me know.  I 
> have been videotaping the show and can loan you my copies.  I agree with 
> the show that everyone needs a good foundation.  Some parts of the show I 
> don't agree with.  But the foundation is very important.  Today a women 
> shouldn't have to suffer with an ill-fitting bra.  When the woman on the 
> show has a proper fitting bras, the co-host or Tim calls it "happy bra 
> face."  I have to laugh because I saw my daughter with the happy bra face 
> last month on our shopping trip.
>
> Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that everyone's 
> bust is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely rounded, some have 
> more tissue underneath and to the sides, etc.  That is why if you find a 
> bra manufacturer that you like, stick with them.  Most manufacturers do 
> not change their cup sizing molds for years.
>
> Good luck Franchesca!  Remember to have a lot of patience.  As frustrated 
> as you are, your daughter is probably twice as much.  I really feel for 
> single fathers when they take their puberty-age daughters bra shopping!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO


>
>
>Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that 
>everyone's bust is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely 
>rounded, some have more tissue underneath and to the sides, 
>etc.  That is why if you find a bra manufacturer that you like, 
>stick with them.  Most manufacturers do not change their cup sizing 
>molds for years.


Playtex is now making some of its bras in half cup sizes - newspaper 
article last week in England. However, needless to say the larger 
sizes are not included, and I will have to continue to take tucks in 
some of my bras to make them fit. I could really do with a C and a half!

Suzi

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Hee, hee, hee. Goes along with the itty bitty bladder club (only better)

PAtty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of zelda crusher
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes


> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:33:44 -0400> From:
mary.doug@pierocarey.info> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC: > Subject:
[h-cost] Increasing bra sizes> >> the teeny tiny titty committee>=20
> > > >=20
(picks self up after a good long ROFL) Thank you for that little
linguistic treat, Mary!
=20
Laurie
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Subject: [h-cost] more on tea gowns
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Status: RO

Fran and  Kathleen wrote about the tea gown for the Belle Epoque (thank you
for not reminding me of my spelling error) period.  For your further
guidance, I will be a visitor at a hotel where the event is held.  I am,
ahem, not a young girl, nor likely to fool anyone that I will be near that
age again, but I am divorced.  Given this information, and the additional
concern that this is not in my home, nor am I a guest of someone else,  what
should I do to be appropriately dressed?
Thank you for all of the information about the  beautiful gowns!  Did the
exhibition of gowns have a catalog?  I will be looking at purchasing the
referenced books, but do not wish to embarrass myself in my enthusiasm. Are
there specific references to the service of tea that will help me learn a
bit more?
Ann




-- 
What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean Jacques
Rousseau
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:56:35 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <000301c803fa$91355d00$6801a8c0@momlaptop> from "Penny Ladnier"
	at Oct 01, 2007 03:13:26 AM
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Status: RO

 
> Give your daughter a hug from me.  All my friends in 8th grade were wearing 
> bras and I didn't have a thing to put in one until I was in 11th grade.

One comment.

Read some books by MD John McDougall; in particular a book he wrote just for
women.

Puberty is accelerated by a high fat diet.  Our SAD (Standard Wester Diet)
is unpresidented in history and a side effect of high fat, high protein,
high animal proteins is that the age of menarch is reduced. This results
in a dramatic increase in breast (and other hormone cancers).

A vegetarian diet will cut your hormones in half, delay menarch, make 
menopause come a few years sooner, remove/reduce PMS and more.  That's
based upon research and personal experience of friends.

Of course one can be obese and unhealthy on a vegetarian diet- eat lots of
animal proteins (cheese, diary), lots of processed foods ....

I highly recommend reading The China Study by T. Colin Campbell and books
by MDs John McDougall, Joel Fuhrman (esp. the book for kids), Dr Esselstyn,
Neil Barnard and of course John Robbins.

The dramtic rise in obestity, heart disease, cancer, autoimmune diseases like
MS, type II diabeties, and the host of other "western" diseases aka the diseases
of the kings are due to our SAD diet and lifestyle.  You are what you eat and
we currently eat a diet which has no history of safe consumption; a chemical
hodgepodge of things which our body is not adapted to.  The amazing thing is 
that most of those diseases can be reversed by a healthy diet. Decades of
dammage can be undone; medications tossed aside.....

The nice thing about a change in diet is that there are no nasty side effects
as there are with ALL drugs; no surgery is necessary and it costs nothing.

Another excellent book is Overdosed America by an MD who researched changes
he saw happening in his practice.  It's quite an eye opener.

When my wife discovered a book of mine - Diet For a Small Planet we were
whole-food vegetarian, for environmental reasons, the next day.  After
much research I went pretty well whole-food vegan.  Whole-food; not 
processed crap food - 80% whole carbs, 10% plant protein, 10% fats from
foods; not added fats when cooking.  Our weight droped; our blood cholesterol
fell thru the floor (135 anyone?) to a level that is likely undoing the
dammage of decades of eating SAD, gums are better, teeth don't require
"scaling" and many other side effects.

I pity the children being raised eating a SAD.  I see them in the playgrounds;
obese parents and kids already there or getting there.  The health problems
of the parents are visited upon the children decades earlier in life.  In
Britain there have already been court cases - taking parents to court
for the health effects of what the parents are doing to the children.

If what you eat makes you unhealthy you can expect it to have the same
effect on your kids!

Anyways; read the books; The China Study in particular.

Please don't take this personally.  I'm not going to post about this again.
I've got family and friends that match the above situation.  They're too
busy (we suggest reading about Voluntary Simplicity) or the ridicule our
diet as their health and lives sink; as they get hospitalized as they
"live it up" and go from obese with diabeties to being on dialsis, to
loosing their vision (typically due to high cholesterol from the diet)....

One can pray and inform and lead by example but as they say - we dig
our graves with our teeth.  It's all been known for a long long time.

 - Eric
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d264ccd60710010615h66bfbe90td9796ec278602c31@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] more on tea gowns
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:57:09 -0400
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Status: RO

I would concentrate on the Season of the Tea...Not quite so frou-frou as the 
summer season would be.  Something classy but in a fall mode: a silk faille 
suit with lace insertions, and of course, THE HAT!  Also of consideration is 
the time of day for the event.  The closer to evening, the dressier the 
ensemble.

There were several films done in the 1970-80s that captured the feel of the 
times that might be of use to you in trying to get the right look for your 
age and status.

kathleen



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ann marie" <bestinterests@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@Proper
 Bostonians
mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] more on tea gowns


> Fran and  Kathleen wrote about the tea gown for the Belle Epoque (thank 
> you
> for not reminding me of my spelling error) period.  For your further
> guidance, I will be a visitor at a hotel where the event is held.  I am,
> ahem, not a young girl, nor likely to fool anyone that I will be near that
> age again, but I am divorced.  Given this information, and the additional
> concern that this is not in my home, nor am I a guest of someone else, 
> what
> should I do to be appropriately dressed?
> Thank you for all of the information about the  beautiful gowns!  Did the
> exhibition of gowns have a catalog?  I will be looking at purchasing the
> referenced books, but do not wish to embarrass myself in my enthusiasm. 
> Are
> there specific references to the service of tea that will help me learn a
> bit more?
> Ann
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean 
> Jacques
> Rousseau
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
References: <200709301800.l8UI07RH067643@net.indra.com><47005C88.4080200@pierocarey.info><4700695f.1f09360a.06c9.3d5a@mx.google.com>
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Status: RO

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:


>>
>> When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told  =20
>> us that if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next =20
>>  number and down a cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did  =20
>> this because the selection in styles were limited at her true size. =20
>>   Another test if a bra is fitting correctly is if the chest strap  =20
>> between the breast lays flat against the chest.  If the strap is  =20
>> away from the center chest, the bra is not the correct size.
>>

If only!  I have no back -- it's all boobage.  I really want a band of =20
34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go up to =20
a 36.  Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is ridiculous!  Let me =20
rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford them.  *sigh*  I =20
do, however, have insurance now.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:54:28 -0400
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

My mother had the same problem - Title 9 catalogue had some that would
fit her, but as you say $$$.=20

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:44 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:


>>
>> When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told  =20
>> us that if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next =20
>>  number and down a cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did  =20
>> this because the selection in styles were limited at her true size. =20
>>   Another test if a bra is fitting correctly is if the chest strap  =20
>> between the breast lays flat against the chest.  If the strap is  =20
>> away from the center chest, the bra is not the correct size.
>>

If only!  I have no back -- it's all boobage.  I really want a band of =20
34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go up to =20
a 36.  Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is ridiculous!  Let me =20
rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford them.  *sigh*  I =20
do, however, have insurance now.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 11:06:05 EDT
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long) 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
speaking as a natural 34G, who has the same problem, have to say, I'm with  
you!!!
 
 
In a message dated 01/10/2007 15:54:41 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

If  only!  I have no back -- it's all boobage.  I really want a band  of  
34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go  up to  
a 36.  Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is  ridiculous!  Let me  
rephrase that, when I can find them, I  can't afford them.  *sigh*  I  
do, however, have insurance  now.

susan


 



   
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Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 11:11:06 -0400
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Quoting "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>:

> My mother had the same problem - Title 9 catalogue had some that would
> fit her, but as you say $$$.

Last time I looked (1988), they were $100 .....

susan

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 11:17:01 -0400
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I thought
that was a lot!)

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)

Quoting "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>:

> My mother had the same problem - Title 9 catalogue had some that would
> fit her, but as you say $$$.

Last time I looked (1988), they were $100 .....

susan

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 16:24:08 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

Interesting. I have a minimal figure and wear a bra for appearance rather =
than necessity (don't fancy Penny's sticking-plaster idea!). I always =
choose underwired styles so that if I slip out from underneath it holds =
its shape and I can shrug myself back in! I've never had a problem with =
the wires poking out.

Kate Bunting

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

Have any of you checked out Caccique bras? I swear by them. They seem to
be able to comfortably fit anyone and come in a variety of styles. The
big selling point for me is that while I'm not all that busty, I have a
rib cage that belongs on a football player, and could never find bras
that fit right until I found them. Lane Bryant carries the line. 

Arlys

On Mon, 01 Oct 2007 08:46:50 +0100 Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
writes:
> 
> >
> >
> >Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that 
> >everyone's bust is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely 
> >rounded, some have more tissue underneath and to the sides, 
> >etc.  That is why if you find a bra manufacturer that you like, 
> >stick with them.  Most manufacturers do not change their cup sizing 
> 
> >molds for years.
> 
> 
> Playtex is now making some of its bras in half cup sizes - newspaper 
> 
> article last week in England. However, needless to say the larger 
> sizes are not included, and I will have to continue to take tucks in 
> 
> some of my bras to make them fit. I could really do with a C and a 
> half!
> 
> Suzi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO


So how do you deal with "try before you buy?"  I'm so weirdly shaped  
that different styles from the same manufacturer don't always fit.  I  
wore *one* style of bra for 20 years because none of Bali's other  
styles fit!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO

Rickard, Patty wrote:
> WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I thought
> that was a lot!)
> 

I think that's about average for a higher quality bra these days.

As we age our bodies change, for a variety of reasons. When you're 40, 
you don't wear a bra for the same reason you did when you were 15. A lot 
of us are probably still trying to buy the same size and style we wore 
in high school. I think a lot of people need to re-asses their bra. 
Every time I hear someone say the straps cut in or the wire hurts,or it 
shifts around, or some other uncomfortable thing, I know they're not 
wearing the right size and shape of bra.

It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done 
earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are 
equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt right 
for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the comfort, now 
I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable. I no longer 
buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department stores.

As historic costumers we make a big fuss about the comfort of corsets, 
making sure we get one properly fitted to us so it will be comfortable. 
We make sure we have the right shape for our figure and our clothing. We 
choose high quality materials and we carefully handwash the garment when 
it is soiled. But many of us do not take the same care with our modern 
underpinnings.  And why not? It makes all the difference when it comes 
to our personal comfort.



Dawn







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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 11:08:57 -0500
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

WOOT!! Thanks everyone!! I found the perfect bra for my daughter. :)

http://www3.jcpenney.com/jcp/Products.aspx?GrpTyp=PRD&ItemID=125cf98&RefPage=Products&StoreRegNo=&catalog_base=&firstpage=&CmCatId=SearchResults|SearchDepartment|SearchProducts|42249&cmOrigID=125CFA2&cmPosID=2

I know, long link, but it is a maidenform sold at my local JCPenney. Going
to run there today and get them for her. Front closure with no underwire!
She will be happpy now to go to the showers with this pretty thing. :)

She currently wears the cami's with the extra shelf in it but she wants to
'look like the other girls'. Sigh. Baby steps ....

Chiara

On 10/1/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>
> Rickard, Patty wrote:
> > WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I thought
> > that was a lot!)
> >
>
> I think that's about average for a higher quality bra these days.
>
> As we age our bodies change, for a variety of reasons. When you're 40,
> you don't wear a bra for the same reason you did when you were 15. A lot
> of us are probably still trying to buy the same size and style we wore
> in high school. I think a lot of people need to re-asses their bra.
> Every time I hear someone say the straps cut in or the wire hurts,or it
> shifts around, or some other uncomfortable thing, I know they're not
> wearing the right size and shape of bra.
>
> It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
> earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
> equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt right
> for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the comfort, now
> I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable. I no longer
> buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department stores.
>
> As historic costumers we make a big fuss about the comfort of corsets,
> making sure we get one properly fitted to us so it will be comfortable.
> We make sure we have the right shape for our figure and our clothing. We
> choose high quality materials and we carefully handwash the garment when
> it is soiled. But many of us do not take the same care with our modern
> underpinnings.  And why not? It makes all the difference when it comes
> to our personal comfort.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 12:10:03 -0400
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Rickard, Patty wrote:
>> WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I thought
>> that was a lot!)
>>
>
> It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
> earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
> equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt
> right for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the
> comfort, now I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable.
> I no longer buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department
> stores.
>

I second that; I was able to be fitted exactly once.  However, when =20
the store that's doing the fittings doesn't have anything that will =20
fit you because most "mass market" bra manufactures thing that if you =20
wear a G (or higher cup) then you need a bra band of 38 or so .... =20
rather than 32/34 .....

That's why I don't want to mail order a bra that I can't try on first.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 11:15:47 -0500
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

Have you tried places like
http://sewtrue.com/Store/Bridal-and-Formal-Supplies-C12/ that sell the parts
and then you put it together?

Chiara

On 10/1/07, Brangwyne <tenpin.ma@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm currently trying to figure out how to build my own...I have a full cup
> size difference--left is a dd and right is a d.
>
> And normal bands just roll up on me, straps are too short...*sigh* so my
> bras either ride up the back, fall off my shoulders or curl up in front
> and
> I fall out the bottom. And I started out a 36B -- until kids.
>
> Starr
> >>
> >> When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told   us
> >> that if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the
> next  number
> >> and down a cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did   this
> because
> >> the selection in styles were limited at her true size.  Another test if
> a
> >> bra is fitting correctly is if the chest strap   between the breast
> lays
> >> flat against the chest.  If the strap is   away from the center chest,
> >> the bra is not the correct size.
> >>
>
> If only!  I have no back -- it's all boobage.  I really want a band of
> 34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go up to
> a 36.  Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is ridiculous!  Let me
> rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford them.  *sigh*  I
> do, however, have insurance now.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Status: RO

Don't give-up looking for that FIT.  It's out there or at least will be soon.   I would like to say that bra technology today has helped me.  I had a lumpectomy eight years ago which cost me nearly half of what I had and went from looking like an early Rubin's to a Picasso.  My right is a 36D when measured the standard way; can't guess what the left is ha ha.  The Victoria's Secret IPEX (and one Body style) fits wonderfully.  I have tried several styles, shapes, brands, and even most of VS.  Something about the IPEX comfy stretch and coverage.  I will say that I have chosen not to reconstruct and you can tell the lopsided difference if really looking.  However, for the most part it feels great, helps me look good, and even boosts my confidence.  The one draw back is price.  I got the VS card for the coupons and special offers thus making the price about or less what I would spend for almost any other brand.  Good luck to the rest of you. 

---------- Original Message ----------- 
> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:50:53 -0400 
> From: "Brangwyne" 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long) 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Message-ID: <003601c8043a$ca5bb080$6501a8c0@TheBeast> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; 
>     reply-type=response 
> 
> I'm currently trying to figure out how to build my own...I have a full cup 
> size difference--left is a dd and right is a d. 
> 
> And normal bands just roll up on me, straps are too short...*sigh* so my 
> bras either ride up the back, fall off my shoulders or curl up in front and 
> I fall out the bottom. And I started out a 36B -- until kids. 
> 
> Starr 
> ***************************************** 
------- End of Original Message -------

 
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Status: RO

A couple years ago, after losing a substantial amount of weight, I 
decided I really needed to find a different size bra. While waiting on 
line for a dressing room at one store (OK, it was Victoria's Secret), an 
energetic young store employee came up and said "have you ever been 
professionally fitted." I said no, she whipped out a tape measure, did 
two measurements over my clothes, and told me what size to buy. I then 
proceeded to try on several bras they had in that size. None fit.

So, I assume "professionally fitted" has several definitions! However, 
still carrying those body image issues from my younger days, or even 
more recent but heavier days, I never went anywhere else for a 
professional fitting that might get, shall we say, more personal. Maybe 
that's a mistake. But what I did do was read, read, read about how a 
good bra should fit. Then armed with that information I went to a store 
(L'Eggs, Bali, Hanes) and started experimenting with different sizes. 
Took over an hour but was well worth it, and the women in that store 
didn't mind me being there for that long. Oh, and I ended up with a bra 
size  that was 2 sizes smaller in the band and one to two sizes larger 
in the cup.

So, for those of you who would like to do the same, here are some resources:
http://www.herroom.com/bra-fitting-checklist,907,30.html
http://www.herroom.com/bra-bands-cups-underwires-panels-straps,902,30.html 
and links from that page
http://www.ehow.com/how_167_find-fit-bra.html

Oh, and when you want the ultimate fitting experience, head for Paris. 
That's what Daisy Garnett of the NYTimes did. Here's her article (may 
require freee subscription to read)
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D00E6DE1631F934A2575BC0A9659C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=1

- Hope


Susan Farmer wrote:
>>
>> It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
>> earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
>> equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt

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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 12:54:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume  Penny's bra info" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


     Changing the subject line since there is more info than modern
fitting — thank you for the interesting tid bits!

>My daughter hated training bras but loved sports bras.

     What exactly is a "training bra" ?

     I remember shopping for the first bra, back around 1975.  A-cups all
had padding.  They would explain that the "fiberfill" was to help
fill out the cup.  Well, why not just make cups the right size?  I
was lucky to be in the post-bra era.  I remember once shopping for
something to go under a Quiana dress. (Quiana is a clingy shiny
synthetic knit.)  Everything created spectacular wrinkles, so I went
without a bra and it looked fine.  I still have the dress.  It was
still a few years before the stretchy knits were used in bras.

     Some girls in late elementary/junior high wore half-undershirts. 
They were not as structured as a sports bra.  I suppose camisoles
would do the same thing, but the maybe the half-shirt felt a bit more
grown-up and bra-like.

>> There are ways of hiding not wearing a bra (the nipple issue.)

     Interestingly enough, I find most bras these days do not hide erect
nipples.  The knits are supportive, but when it's cold they show.  I
figured it was more socially acceptable now, the same way bra straps
are visible.  Back in the 70s, it was embarrasing to have a bra strap
show!

     So are the band-aids a requirement in certain dressing applications,
or is it a preference being from an era when women were supposed to
hide them?

     I did read the blog of a woman who has nipple piercings, she uses the
stick-ons when she is wearing something clingy and does not want the
whole world to see she is pierced.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

Hope Greenberg wrote:
> I said no, she whipped out a tape measure, did 
> two measurements over my clothes, and told me what size to buy. I then 
> proceeded to try on several bras they had in that size. None fit.
> 
> So, I assume "professionally fitted" has several definitions! 

Yeah, mine was considerably different. In a dressing room with a 3-way 
mirror. The woman doing the fitting asked what size I wore, and what 
problems I had. Then she looked me over (topless) and brought in several 
to try. We talked about what fit and how it felt. They all fit better 
than my old bra, but we kept trying models until we got one more or less 
perfect. I was there over an hour. It reminded me of those old movies 
where ladies go shopping and shopgirls bring in a steady stream of 
dresses for madame to approve.

The only other time I put that much effort into a fitting was when 
having a victorian corset pattern made. You know how much difference an 
eighth of an inch can make sometimes....


Dawn

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Status: RO

I don't have that much trouble finding a fitting bra but Sometimes I 
just can't find anything that I like.
Until I learned to make them myself.
It is not that hard. It may take a few tries to get the perfect pattern 
or to take one apart that fits well to make a pattern...
But I love making them!
There is just one little problem...
You can by packages that have everything you need in them.
And in my case quite often even more.
So than I think, if I buy some extra fabric I will have enough lace for 
two sets but than of course I will have some fabric left over...
which means I need lace that will go with the fabric, and some strap 
material that I can buy in meters so I will have strap material for two.....
Ok you probably realize by know what a dangerous hobby this can be :)

Deredere

Hope Greenberg wrote:
> A couple years ago, after losing a substantial amount of weight, I 
> decided I really needed to find a different size bra. While waiting on 
> line for a dressing room at one store (OK, it was Victoria's Secret), 
> an energetic young store employee came up and said "have you ever been 
> professionally fitted." I said no, she whipped out a tape measure, did 
> two measurements over my clothes, and told me what size to buy. I then 
> proceeded to try on several bras they had in that size. None fit.
>
> So, I assume "professionally fitted" has several definitions! However, 
> still carrying those body image issues from my younger days, or even 
> more recent but heavier days, I never went anywhere else for a 
> professional fitting that might get, shall we say, more personal. 
> Maybe that's a mistake. But what I did do was read, read, read about 
> how a good bra should fit. Then armed with that information I went to 
> a store (L'Eggs, Bali, Hanes) and started experimenting with different 
> sizes. Took over an hour but was well worth it, and the women in that 
> store didn't mind me being there for that long. Oh, and I ended up 
> with a bra size  that was 2 sizes smaller in the band and one to two 
> sizes larger in the cup.
>
> So, for those of you who would like to do the same, here are some 
> resources:
> http://www.herroom.com/bra-fitting-checklist,907,30.html
> http://www.herroom.com/bra-bands-cups-underwires-panels-straps,902,30.html 
> and links from that page
> http://www.ehow.com/how_167_find-fit-bra.html
>
> Oh, and when you want the ultimate fitting experience, head for Paris. 
> That's what Daisy Garnett of the NYTimes did. Here's her article (may 
> require freee subscription to read)
> http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D00E6DE1631F934A2575BC0A9659C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=1 
>
>
> - Hope
>
>
> Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>
>>> It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
>>> earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
>>> equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:12:56 -0700
From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

I'm 17, and wear a 32B. Gosh darn it, too, I'm still growing up in that
quadrant, too. It was about impossible to find a normal, soft cup non
underwire not pushup bra in a non psycodelic color at our JC Pennies - and I
had even looked some styles up online at the website and they didn't carry
it in the store. .

Your daughter is definitely not alone - my sister is 12, thin as a beanstock
and straight as a board, just like I was at that age.

The other thing I have a problem with is being overly perky. I fit into the
top of the cup just fine, but the bottom has way to much excess fabric that
folds up into a crease because there is nothing there to fill it out. I'll
be working on it....



On 10/1/07, Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> WOOT!! Thanks everyone!! I found the perfect bra for my daughter. :)
>
>
> http://www3.jcpenney.com/jcp/Products.aspx?GrpTyp=PRD&ItemID=125cf98&RefPage=Products&StoreRegNo=&catalog_base=&firstpage=&CmCatId=SearchResults|SearchDepartment|SearchProducts|42249&cmOrigID=125CFA2&cmPosID=2
>
> I know, long link, but it is a maidenform sold at my local JCPenney. Going
> to run there today and get them for her. Front closure with no underwire!
> She will be happpy now to go to the showers with this pretty thing. :)
>
> She currently wears the cami's with the extra shelf in it but she wants to
> 'look like the other girls'. Sigh. Baby steps ....
>
> Chiara
>
> On 10/1/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> >
> > Rickard, Patty wrote:
> > > WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I
> thought
> > > that was a lot!)
> > >
> >
> > I think that's about average for a higher quality bra these days.
> >
> > As we age our bodies change, for a variety of reasons. When you're 40,
> > you don't wear a bra for the same reason you did when you were 15. A lot
> > of us are probably still trying to buy the same size and style we wore
> > in high school. I think a lot of people need to re-asses their bra.
> > Every time I hear someone say the straps cut in or the wire hurts,or it
> > shifts around, or some other uncomfortable thing, I know they're not
> > wearing the right size and shape of bra.
> >
> > It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
> > earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
> > equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt right
> > for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the comfort, now
> > I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable. I no longer
> > buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department stores.
> >
> > As historic costumers we make a big fuss about the comfort of corsets,
> > making sure we get one properly fitted to us so it will be comfortable.
> > We make sure we have the right shape for our figure and our clothing. We
> > choose high quality materials and we carefully handwash the garment when
> > it is soiled. But many of us do not take the same care with our modern
> > underpinnings.  And why not? It makes all the difference when it comes
> > to our personal comfort.
> >
> >
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B025B68B7@lynx.campus.muc.prv><47011A84.2050003@reddawn.net><475bc2c50710010908i222fc3a0w8884fd07f92293f1@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 13:29:45 -0400
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Status: RO

(I'm a quasi lurker)  This is an interesting discussion because I was in a
Target not long ago and overheard two young women -- early 20s -- having a
conversation about a friend of theirs who wore, like, grandma underwear, and
how the one friend had turned her on to the sexy and fluorescent push-upped
and be-thonged.  I thought, poor girl who can't just wear her plain old
undies and went back to skulking in the grandma underwear.
My complaint is molded cup bras -- I am a plus size personage (I daresay,
probably the result of that high fat meat and refined foods...I cannot eat
lard as my ancestors did) and I do not need said cups.  I don't get it.
Candace Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elisabeth Doornink
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)

I'm 17, and wear a 32B. Gosh darn it, too, I'm still growing up in that
quadrant, too. It was about impossible to find a normal, soft cup non
underwire not pushup bra in a non psycodelic color at our JC Pennies - and I
had even looked some styles up online at the website and they didn't carry
it in the store. .

Your daughter is definitely not alone - my sister is 12, thin as a beanstock
and straight as a board, just like I was at that age.

The other thing I have a problem with is being overly perky. I fit into the
top of the cup just fine, but the bottom has way to much excess fabric that
folds up into a crease because there is nothing there to fill it out. I'll
be working on it....



On 10/1/07, Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> WOOT!! Thanks everyone!! I found the perfect bra for my daughter. :)
>
>
>
http://www3.jcpenney.com/jcp/Products.aspx?GrpTyp=PRD&ItemID=125cf98&RefPage
=Products&StoreRegNo=&catalog_base=&firstpage=&CmCatId=SearchResults|SearchD
epartment|SearchProducts|42249&cmOrigID=125CFA2&cmPosID=2
>
> I know, long link, but it is a maidenform sold at my local JCPenney. Going
> to run there today and get them for her. Front closure with no underwire!
> She will be happpy now to go to the showers with this pretty thing. :)
>
> She currently wears the cami's with the extra shelf in it but she wants to
> 'look like the other girls'. Sigh. Baby steps ....
>
> Chiara
>
> On 10/1/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> >
> > Rickard, Patty wrote:
> > > WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I
> thought
> > > that was a lot!)
> > >
> >
> > I think that's about average for a higher quality bra these days.
> >
> > As we age our bodies change, for a variety of reasons. When you're 40,
> > you don't wear a bra for the same reason you did when you were 15. A lot
> > of us are probably still trying to buy the same size and style we wore
> > in high school. I think a lot of people need to re-asses their bra.
> > Every time I hear someone say the straps cut in or the wire hurts,or it
> > shifts around, or some other uncomfortable thing, I know they're not
> > wearing the right size and shape of bra.
> >
> > It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
> > earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
> > equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt right
> > for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the comfort, now
> > I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable. I no longer
> > buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department stores.
> >
> > As historic costumers we make a big fuss about the comfort of corsets,
> > making sure we get one properly fitted to us so it will be comfortable.
> > We make sure we have the right shape for our figure and our clothing. We
> > choose high quality materials and we carefully handwash the garment when
> > it is soiled. But many of us do not take the same care with our modern
> > underpinnings.  And why not? It makes all the difference when it comes
> > to our personal comfort.
> >
> >
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Bra fitting
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Status: RO


>
>
>Hope Greenberg wrote:
>>A couple years ago, after losing a substantial amount of weight, I 
>>decided I really needed to find a different size bra. While waiting 
>>on line for a dressing room at one store (OK, it was Victoria's 
>>Secret), an energetic young store employee came up and said "have 
>>you ever been professionally fitted." I said no, she whipped out a 
>>tape measure, did two measurements over my clothes, and told me 
>>what size to buy. I then proceeded to try on several bras they had 
>>in that size. None fit.
>>
>>So, I assume "professionally fitted" has several definitions! 
>>However, still carrying those body image issues from my younger 
>>days, or even more recent but heavier days, I never went anywhere 
>>else for a professional fitting that might get, shall we say, more 
>>personal. Maybe that's a mistake. But what I did do was read, read, 
>>read about how a good bra should fit. Then armed with that 
>>information I went to a store (L'Eggs, Bali, Hanes) and started 
>>experimenting with different sizes. Took over an hour but was well 
>>worth it, and the women in that store didn't mind me being there 
>>for that long. Oh, and I ended up with a bra size  that was 2 sizes 
>>smaller in the band and one to two sizes larger in the cup.
>>
>>So, for those of you who would like to do the same, here are some resources:
>>http://www.herroom.com/bra-fitting-checklist,907,30.html
>>http://www.herroom.com/bra-bands-cups-underwires-panels-straps,902,30.html 
>>and links from that page
>>http://www.ehow.com/how_167_find-fit-bra.html
>>
>>Oh, and when you want the ultimate fitting experience, head for 
>>Paris. That's what Daisy Garnett of the NYTimes did. Here's her 
>>article (may require freee subscription to read)
>>http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D00E6DE1631F934A2575BC0A9659C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=1 
>>
>>
>>- Hope
>>
>>
>>Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done
>>>>earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are
>>>>equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt

In the 70's I was a house model for Berlei foundation garments. They 
had a whole bunch of would-be fitters in a room with a few models, 
and were told to measure us and then to find suitable foundation 
garments from the range that Berlei did then. It was a fascinating 
experience - I was a 34 DD, with a fat waist, (29)and 36 inch hips. 
Only one person got me right first time, and some of them never found 
anything that was quite right. I was in underwires, one piece 
corset/pantie things - the name is no longer in my head, and girdles. 
Since then I have always fitted myself, and have a range of bras from 
different makers, none of which is the same as the others! (But all 
fit and are comfortable!)

Suzi



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Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 14:21:33 EDT
Subject: [h-cost] Bra fitting
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
for anybody in the Uk, esp the north, Sadie the bra lady is fabulous (comes  
up if you google her).
and if you're larger of cup size, so are bravissimo.
 
I fit myself too (and in reality I'm different sizes in different makes and  
styles), but occasionally go to bravissimo in leeds cos it's just such a nice  
place to shop.





   
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200709301800.l8UI07RH067643@net.indra.com><47005C88.4080200@pierocarey.info><4700695f.1f09360a.06c9.3d5a@mx.google.com><000301c803fa$91355d00$6801a8c0@momlaptop><000b01c803fc$daaf42a0$6801a8c0@momlaptop>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
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Status: RO

I'm currently trying to figure out how to build my own...I have a full cup 
size difference--left is a dd and right is a d.

And normal bands just roll up on me, straps are too short...*sigh* so my 
bras either ride up the back, fall off my shoulders or curl up in front and 
I fall out the bottom. And I started out a 36B -- until kids.

Starr
>>
>> When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told   us 
>> that if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next  number 
>> and down a cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did   this because 
>> the selection in styles were limited at her true size.  Another test if a 
>> bra is fitting correctly is if the chest strap   between the breast lays 
>> flat against the chest.  If the strap is   away from the center chest, 
>> the bra is not the correct size.
>>

If only!  I have no back -- it's all boobage.  I really want a band of
34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go up to
a 36.  Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is ridiculous!  Let me
rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford them.  *sigh*  I
do, however, have insurance now.


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Status: RO

I have several of these!  They are really interesting to read.  Haven't had them out in awhile, guess I need to revisit them.
   
  I recently bought my mother, who was born Nov. 28, 1919, a December, 1919 copy of a women's magazine - American Woman.  She has enjoyed reading it to see what was popular when she was born.
   
  Shirley


 

test'; ">
       
---------------------------------
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Subject: [h-cost] looking for a pirate coat
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Status: RO

My husband is looking for a not very fancy great coat for pirate events.  H=
e wants to be more merchant than showy pirate.

Who has a good pattern that's not going to require full on tailoring, padst=
itching, etc.

Julie
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From: zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Custom bras
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:25:23 -0700
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Status: RO


Susan,
=20
I joined a yahoo group called  Custom-Bras (for some reason I can't get the=
 link to paste).  It was an offshoot of a sewing group concerned with good =
fit and the owner of the new group, Don McGunn, always had really on target=
 suggestions for fit, so...
=20
I haven't actually tried to make any yet, but from the postings I've read i=
t doesn't take a lot of time and almost no yardage.  He has an e-book on th=
e subject, but the site is full of files and videos which I suspect anyone =
who has done costuming could derive the info they need just from those.
HTH,
Laurie
=20
> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:43:44 -0400> From: sfarmer@goldsword.com> To: h-=
costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)> CC: >=
 > Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:> > > >>> >> When we re=
cently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told > >> us that if you=
 can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next > >> number and down =
a cup size. This worked for my daughter. We did > >> this because the selec=
tion in styles were limited at her true size. > >> Another test if a bra is=
 fitting correctly is if the chest strap > >> between the breast lays flat =
against the chest. If the strap is > >> away from the center chest, the bra=
 is not the correct size.> >>> > If only! I have no back -- it's all boobag=
e. I really want a band of > 34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I =
really *can't* go up to > a 36. Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is=
 ridiculous! Let me > rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford t=
hem. *sigh* I > do, however, have insurance now.> > susan> -----> Susan Far=
mer> sfarmer@goldsword.com> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College> Division =
of Science and Math> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/> > > ______=
_________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costum=
e@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger=A0
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Status: RO

Julie wrote:
> My husband is looking for a not very fancy great coat for pirate events.  He wants to be more merchant than showy pirate.
> 
> Who has a good pattern that's not going to require full on tailoring, padstitching, etc.
> 

Simplicity 4923 is a decent, cheap pattern. It's not difficult to put 
together, though it could benefit from being lined. It runs a little bit 
large and loose, but can be modified easily if your guy is slender.  You 
can trim it as fancy as you like, or make it in plain wool with 
self-fabric buttons.


Dawn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Custom bras
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Status: RO

Quoting zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>:

>
> Susan,
>
> I joined a yahoo group called  Custom-Bras (for some reason I can't   
> get the link to paste).  It was an offshoot of a sewing group   
> concerned with good fit and the owner of the new group, Don McGunn,   
> always had really on target suggestions for fit, so...
>
> I haven't actually tried to make any yet, but from the postings I've  
>  read it doesn't take a lot of time and almost no yardage.  He has  
> an  e-book on the subject, but the site is full of files and videos   
> which I suspect anyone who has done costuming could derive the info   
> they need just from those.

Oooh!  Thanks.  That sounds like it certainly has possibilities!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for a pirate coat
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 17:16:55 -0400
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Status: RO

Believe it or not, I used this

http://www.butterick.com/item/B6844.htm?tab=costumes&page=10
for men's coats in a production of The Country Wife. With the  
addition of pockets, pocket flaps, and larger cuffs, and of course  
some shortening, it was gorgeous on a wide variety of physical types.  
The fit was wonderful, and the skirt really strutted. AND the  
construction was fairly simple.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

> Julie wrote:
>> My husband is looking for a not very fancy great coat for pirate  
>> events.  He wants to be more merchant than showy pirate.
>> Who has a good pattern that's not going to require full on  
>> tailoring, padstitching, etc.
>
> Simplicity 4923 is a decent, cheap pattern. It's not difficult to  
> put together, though it could benefit from being lined. It runs a  
> little bit large and loose, but can be modified easily if your guy  
> is slender.  You can trim it as fancy as you like, or make it in  
> plain wool with self-fabric buttons.
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for a pirate coat
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In a message dated 10/1/2007 4:20:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jtknits@jtknits.cts.com writes:

My  husband is looking for a not very fancy great coat for pirate events.  He 
 wants to be more merchant than showy pirate.

Who has a good pattern  that's not going to require full on tailoring, 
padstitching,  etc.




****************
 
Well, it depends on WHEN he wants to be a pirate. There isn't a "pirate"  
period, y'know....though most famous ones tend to be the early 1700's or there  
abouts. The Capt. Hook look. So a "pirate coat" is just a coat anyone might  
wear in the period you choose.
 
I've made 2 for different people who wanted a "typical" pirate. I used a  
pattern from "The Cut of Men's Clothes" by Norah Waugh.... diagram XVII, pages  
62 and 63. I followed the pattern exactly for the 1st coat, but the back is a  
bit narrow across the shoulders for a comfy modern fit so the 2nd one  got a 
wider back. I cut them with no padding or any inner structure like  you might 
find in a modern coat. None of that kind of tailoring is  required. They look 
like a "piece of cloth"...which is appropriate. I also  distressed them with 
some dye and paint and bleach so they looked like they had  spent a lot of time 
at sea. One I made in heavy linen, the other  in burlap. Both were lined with 
cotton. The biggest expense were the many  buttons. One used metal buttons 
[looks more military-like] The other bone.
 
I also made non-matching breeches from the diagram in "The Cut of Men's  
Clothes" that comes before: Diagram XVI on page 61. You could also use the coat  
pattern from this diagram...but I think without the fancy pocket and cuff.
 
These coats are not difficult to get together. And they look  great!



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@sca.uwaterloo.ca>
...
> The dramtic rise in obestity, heart disease, cancer, autoimmune diseases 
> like
> MS, type II diabeties, and the host of other "western" diseases aka the 
> diseases
> of the kings are due to our SAD diet and lifestyle.  You are what you eat 
> and
> we currently eat a diet which has no history of safe consumption; a 
> chemical
> hodgepodge of things which our body is not adapted to.  The amazing thing 
> is
> that most of those diseases can be reversed by a healthy diet. Decades of
> dammage can be undone; medications tossed aside.....
...

Just to be contrary, I have to contrast my personal experience to these 
findings.  I was raised on a ridiculously healthy diet by a health-food 
obsessed mother, and all the up-to-date findings keep confirming the 
excellence of the diet I was on: lots of raw foods, everything made from 
scratch, no refined flour, honey rather than sugar used as sweetening, 
glorious home-made whole wheat bread, and a diet overall well-balanced 
between healthy low-fat protein and healthy non-processed carbs, etcetcetc. 
The only unhealthy factor was that, since I spent several years in the 
carribean, my diet during those years was saltier than it should have been 
(Colombians seem to think that all food should be dripping with salt). 
Well, that and the fact that I love citrusy, acidic foods, which had a poor 
effect on my teeth until I caught on to what was happening.

TMI:
I was a skinny child, but needed my first bra in 3rd grade.  I began 
menstruating at 10, and have always had a very heavy period, lasting on 
average 8 days.  Though I don't have PMS in the emotional sense, I have all 
sorts of very annoying physical reactions for a couple of weeks, especially 
hereditary IBS.

Since I left home at 15 (early college) my typical diet has been a bit of 
protein such as deli meat cuts, roast skinless chicken, lean red meat, or 
cheese, paired with lots and lots of fruit. If you ever meet me in person, 
odds are that I'll be chomping on an apple.  (In fact, now that I think 
about it, if I ever design my own heraldry, an apple should probably figure 
in it, as it is my most recognizeable symbol.)  My low-fat diet as a child, 
and a natural dislike of fat (even as a tiny child I demanded that the 
teeniest bits of fat be cut off my meat) have made for a very low-fat diet 
my entire life.  I occasionally indulge cravings for starch, and I love 
potatoes though I rarely eat them anymore, especially after calculating the 
calories in my favorite potato-cheese soup (about 1000 per bowl; I gained a 
good 40 lbs the year I ate it regularly).  Not the absolute healthiest diet, 
but certainly a lot different from the SAD.  I mess with my diet every so 
often in an attempt to make it even healthier and less calorific (I love 
rich, heavy sauces like alfredo), but I always seem to go back to easy 
protein plus lots of fruit, with the occasional side of rice, potatoes, or 
pasta.

And, I have MS.  There are several potential factors behind it, such as 
genetics (my mother has it, too) and geography as well as how I handle 
stress, and perhaps even exposure to radon, but a western diet surely ain't 
a factor for me.  My diet and eating habits are more like a combination 
between primitive man's diet and the mediterranean diet.  It's possible that 
my diet is the reason that I'm currently doing surprisingly well with the 
MS, but if diet is at fault, how did I get MS in the first place?

Of course, my body may just be as contrary as my personality: I was born 
missing a carotid artery, and despite being completely unable to locate it, 
my doctors assure me that I must have a spleen in here somewhere, or I'd 
probably be dead.  But still, I can't help but be leery when I see problems 
that I know in my case are unrelated to diet, being blamed on diet!

-E House

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 20:24:19 -0700
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Status: RO

I called my 22 yr old daughter (32A) and she said she gets bras either at
Victoria's Secret or The Gap (yes, they sell underwear). Hope this helps.
Also, when in high school, I too, being a charter member of the
Itty-Bitty-Titty Club, didn't wear bras. However, I noticed even I got some
pain, kind of like muscle soreness, so started wearing a very little bit of
a bra. It helped. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 12:13 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)

Franchesca,

Give your daughter a hug from me.  All my friends in 8th grade were wearing
bras and I didn't have a thing to put in one until I was in 11th grade.  I
learned later in life that being small chested was a blessing.  My DIL also
feels the same way.  My youngest sister was well developed before any of my
other sisters.  Baby Sis is six years younger than me.

My mother used to say, "Wait until you have a baby and they will come." 
When that did work after my first child, she said, "Wait until you are
middle-aged, and they will come."

After son #2 was born, I refused to breast fed, then they "came in" 
engorged.  The pain was unbelievable!  I decided that I would be happy with
what I have.  MY DIL used to wear a size 0 dress, and after her second
child, she became engorged.  She said that she never wanted bigger breast
again.

When I was pregnant with son #4, I was living with my MIL.  He was an active
child and loved to run his feet into my ribs.  This caused my bra to move
upward and I complained to my MIL.  She was WELL-endowed and said, "Honey,
if I had as little as you, I would NEVER wear a bra."  I got it!  Official
permission from my MIL to not wear a bra!!!  This was 1985 so the no bra
fashion of the 1970s made it acceptable.  I have probably worn a bra 50
times, at most, since then.  My breast have not sagged and are still like
they were in my 20s. I gave my MIL official permission to my DIL to not wear
a bra and she doesn't wear one now.  What my MIL said not upset me.  She
immediately showed me the reason.  She pulled up her blouse and showed me
the heat rash under her breast, and the deep cut sores on her shoulders from
her bra straps.  She said that she has had them for years and they were very
painful.  My mother is large chested and showed me the same problems that
bras have done to her.  Last year, my mother told me that her petite chested
mother never wore a bra and looked great her whole life.  This was the
greatest gift my MIL ever gave me.  I have never found a bra that fits me
correctly.

If you are an A cup, you really do not need to wear a bra. But I understand
the teenagers wanting to be in bras when everyone else is wearing them.  If
you really want to put your daughter in something, try a sports bra.  My
daughter hated training bras but loved sports bras.

Today a lot of the teenagers to young adults are not real!  They are
enhanced and this is socially acceptable.  We live in the fake generation. 
Fake hair, tans, boobs, hair-color, bleached teeth, etc.

There are ways of hiding not wearing a bra (the nipple issue.) ***I started
growing my hair long after son #4 was born.  My hair has been below breast
length since 1986.  I never had it trimmed shorter since.  Also son #4 when
a baby would go to sleep holding my braid.  Until he was five years old and
he was upset he would sit in my lap and pet my long braid.
***I wear t-shirts around the house.  When I first started not wearing a
bra, I made sure the t-shirt had a pocket or printed logo on the front.  The
opposing side of  the pocket, is where my braid or ponytail resides.  If my
shirt/blouse does not have a pocket or logo, I let my hair down.
***A Maidenform saleslady taught me this one.  Don't purchase those fancy
flesh colored stickers to go over the nipples.  Only purchase the fancy ones
for hot dates!  Go to the drug store or supermarket and purchase large
Band-Aids. They generally come 10 to a box for a dollar or two. I use the
store brands made of plastic.  The cloth ones have too much adhesive and can
cause bruising or irritation when removing.  Also remove the Band-Aids while
taking a bath.  Put a little baby oil on the breast after removal.  The
removes all the band glue and moisturizes the skin.  For a person with small
nipples, you can cut the Band-Aids in half lengthwise and use the remainder
on the other breast.  Someone with larger nipples, use the entire band on
each breast.

I have professionally dressed many of ladies and teenagers over the years. 
Here are some of the tricks of the trade for enlargement:

***I once had a student crying in the bathroom because her chest did not
fill out a dress that she had to wear immediately.  I am a pro at "making
boobs."  I pulled some tissue paper and increased  boob size the
old-fashioned way.  Needless to say, she stopped crying.
***This is my newest solution! Most of the cammies with an open space to
slip pads in.  There are also cups like a bra without straps or a back that
will slide into cammies easily.  But they do have a piece or elastic joining
the cups.  I have also sewn cups into some evening dresses.
***Another solution that I use, is to purchase these empire waisted tops
with the cups built in without underwires.  I wear them under close fitting
tops.  These tops come in various colors and have spaghetti straps. I have
found at Macy's and JC Penneys.  I purchased every color available.  The
down side to these tops, I have found very few with cups stitched into bust.

When you wash them, the pad will fold over like a shoulder pad.  You either
have to stitch the pads in place from the back lining or pin them in place
prior to washing.
***My kits has several breast pads in various cup sizes.  I purchase them at
Hancock Fabrics.  If I am working a play, before dress rehearsal, I buy pad
that they have in stock.  The key to cleavage, is to put the pads under the
breast and slightly toward the armpit in a bra cup. Make sure the wearer
pulls "the girls up" before putting the pads in.  This pushes the breast up
better than an underwire and they look more natural.  My first play, I
purchased the pads for two actresses.  After the other actresses saw how
nice the two actresses looked, they came in begging me (in their words) to
"make boobs" for them.  After that play, I have been know locally as the
person who can make boobs.
***You can also purchase the "Natural."  I have only used these once.  They
adhere to the breast and feel like real breast but do not breathe.  So you
can fell hot quickly.
***In magazines, film, etc. They are using spray-on cleavage.  They are
actually spraying a line down the center of the chest in a darker shade than
the person's skin color to create a shadow.  This process is also used to
create abs on stomachs for those diet advertisements and music videos.

My daughter has the opposite problem of yours.  She started blooming at 10
y.o.  Her doctor told me that when girls chests start blooming, that their
period will start generally one year later.  And it did.  I asked why girls
are starting their period so early.  He said because of livestock being
given steroids and antibiotics.  He also stated that many GYN doctors are
prescribing hormones to girls in puberty to control mood swings.  Hormones
are being prescribed as young as 11-12 y.o girls.  A good majority of my
daughter's friend have been on hormones in puberty.

When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told us that if
you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next number and down a
cup size.  This worked for my daughter.  We did this because the selection
in styles were limited at her true size.  Another test if a bra is fitting
correctly is if the chest strap between the breast lays flat against the
chest.  If the strap is away from the center chest, the bra is not the
correct size.

When my daughter first needed a bra, we had a hard time finding bras.  I was
pulling my hair out.  I can say, do not go to The Gap for trainer bras. 
Also Victoria's Secret measured her incorrectly.  Training bras should not
be expensive.  They want way too much for them.  Sears does have a nice
selection.  I found a bigger selection a KMart.  This was before Sears
bought KMart but you might want to check there.  When you find a brand of
bras that she does like and they fit well, stick with it!

I hate underwires for the same reasons as others..the poking problem.  I
take a seam ripper and make a small cut to remove them.

One TV series that shows how a bra should probably fit is "Tim Gunn's Guide
to Style" (TGGTS.)  It is on Bravo! Thursday nights.  They are only six
episodes and I believe this Thursday is episode 5, then Project Runway
begins.  The first two episodes really shows how to know if a bra fits
properly.  If you don't catch it repeating during the day, let me know.  I
have been videotaping the show and can loan you my copies.  I agree with the
show that everyone needs a good foundation.  Some parts of the show I don't
agree with.  But the foundation is very important.  Today a women shouldn't
have to suffer with an ill-fitting bra.  When the woman on the show has a
proper fitting bras, the co-host or Tim calls it "happy bra face."  I have
to laugh because I saw my daughter with the happy bra face last month on our
shopping trip.

Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that everyone's bust
is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely rounded, some have more
tissue underneath and to the sides, etc.  That is why if you find a bra
manufacturer that you like, stick with them.  Most manufacturers do not
change their cup sizing molds for years.

Good luck Franchesca!  Remember to have a lot of patience.  As frustrated as
you are, your daughter is probably twice as much.  I really feel for single
fathers when they take their puberty-age daughters bra shopping!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:27 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes


> [major soap boxing approaching ...]
>
> This is exactly what I was telling the Jockey Rep online this past week.
>
> My 12 year old daughter is ready for a training bra. She is 5'2 and a 32a,
> she is sooooo different from her current counterparts in JR HIGH!!! 
> AAA!!!!
> They are bearly 5ft tall with busts of 32c's and up wearing underwire 
> bras!
>
> I so feel for my daughter, to be different in Jr. High is a death sentence
> to many girls. It breaks my heart.
>
> In the conversation with the Jockey rep she let me know that the local
> stores to me in the entire DFW area are NOT ordering the Jockey trainer 
> bra.
> That there is a trend to order bras for teens with underwire because of 1)
> Obese girls at this age and 2) They are not selling anything that is not
> wired.
>
> If I want a bra with no underwire or stiffen support ala Victoria's Secret
> new wireless line I have to order it online. Either that or I can keep her
> in sports bras. I fear that if I do that she will lose her shape and droop
> long before she is 15.
>
> I am just not ready to have my non-obese daughter to be forced into a bra
> that is being designed for a larger ribcage and bust line and added wire
> support for it.
>
> [major soap boxing off]
>
> Chiara Francesca
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:34 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
>
> That's interesting...I had been Thinking, this last year or so, that it
> seemed to me that teen girls seemed to be bustier than I remembered from
> the 70s.  I had been shrugging it off to the general chubbiness of the
> population, but this summer & fall I was really trying to notice, and it
> really did seem that more of the slender girls were bigger than I would
> expect.  Then last weekend I went to my first high school football game
> in 20 years.  I didn't need to pay attention to the game, since the
> nephew was on the sidelines recuperating from an injury.  Folks, I
> _know_ this crowd.  These are the grandkids & the kids of the families I
> went to school with.  (And wasn't that its own mind-blowing little trip,
> but I digress.)  Familiar names, faces, and bodies... but with bigger
> breasts.  Something, or somethings, is different.  There was definitely
> more boobage than there used to be.  I don't mean skin on display, I
> mean cubic inches.  There was definitely a shortage of candidates for
> the teeny tiny titty committee.  Very odd indeed.  I don't know how much
> is hormones in the diet, how much is medical enhancement, & how much is
> wonderbras, but the landscape was hillier than I used to see.  And lots
> of those girls were NOT wearing any bra, let alone anything that could
> give that much boost.
>
> Your intrigued,
>
> Mary Piero Carey
>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 23:05:01 -0500
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Status: RO

Really? I weigh 260 lbs. and I am 5' 7" almost 8". My problem is that I
don't remember to eat or I put off eating. I slowed my metabolism down. I
have been told by my doctor that they are finding out that people whose
eating patterns like mine have a greater chance of diabeties. My meals when
I have them are in proportion to a medium size bowl of soup and half a
sandwich. I have been told by people who see me sitting down to my first
meal of the day (which I usually get around to it at dinnertime) and start
telling me that I need to eat less if I want to loose weight. So I need to
eat to get my metabolism up to speed. I have found that nibbling on raw
coconut has helped some.
Hypothyroid is on the rise and one of the side effects is weight gain. I was
tested for hypothyroid and was borderline. Instead of Amour (sp?) I was told
to avoid soy products if at all possible. Try to lessen intake of cabbage
(love French style cornbeef and cabbage), broccoli (really love, steamed,
raw, w/cheese...), peanuts, etc.. and add things like apricots, kelp...etc.
The last test showed me clear of the border but now I need to be consistant
with eating through the day. Though  small victory I lost 1 1/2" which I
have been told size is more important then the weight (okay, you guys in the
corner get your mind out of the gutter :) ) because muscle weighs more but
is compact.
I know this may sound weird but I knew someone who couldn't eat whole wheat
but could eat white flour without a problem. He is thin as a rail.

De

----- Original Message -----
From: <eric@sca.uwaterloo.ca>
...
> The dramtic rise in obestity, heart disease, cancer, autoimmune diseases
> like
> MS, type II diabeties, and the host of other "western" diseases aka the
> diseases
> of the kings are due to our SAD diet and lifestyle.  You are what you eat
> and
> we currently eat a diet which has no history of safe consumption; a
> chemical
> hodgepodge of things which our body is not adapted to.  The amazing thing
> is
> that most of those diseases can be reversed by a healthy diet. Decades of
> dammage can be undone; medications tossed aside.....
...



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Status: RO

I just got my third "order delay" message from Barnes
and Noble regarding my order for The Tudor Tailor. Has
anybody else had trouble receiving this book? Should I
just try a different vendor?

Thanks for any input.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Status: RO

Greetings De. I'm a few inches taller than you and weigh about the same.
I have an autoimmune disorder and have to be on thyroid replacement meds
(mine basically died) and some other pretty heavy duty drugs  (all works,
I'm fine), but my drs have all said that it is going to be very difficult
for me to lose weight; that the best thing I can do for myself is to be
fit, strong, and healthy, and not to sweat the weight issue.

Eating healthy is always excellent, but it won't always fix the problems.

Arlys

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 01:58:42 -0500
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Mine said that they found out that soy has a chemical that interfers with
iodine absorbtion.
A friend of mine was diagnosed with hypothyroid, she cut the foods out that
inhibited iodine absorbtion and exercised and six months later her thyroid
test came back negative and lost 13 lbs. but in her case her thyroid is
still working.
Another friend w/hypothyroid (age 67) said she was having problems with her
meds slowly not doing the job. I told her of the food I was told to avoid or
regulate and she tried for a month and found an some improvement with her
meds.
To me a healthy diet is one that works with your own body chemistry and
genetics.
You are correct that sometime even eating correctly to meet the problem
doesn't always work. But I like to  think that there is always hope in
turning something around, we just haven't figured out what it is yet.
The positive with me is learning which resturants use soy oil or canola and
the cooks learn as well. Though one place when I asked, said salad oil and
when I asked "but is it soy oil?" they said it is vegetable oil, not soy.
One restuarant waitress went back to ask about the margerine and was told
vegetable oil base and I said "soy or canola"? They read the fine print and
found out it was soy based. This appearantly answered a problem with the
owner's wife having problem as she is allegic to soy and she thought the
margerine was corn oil based.

De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings De. I'm a few inches taller than you and weigh about the same.
I have an autoimmune disorder and have to be on thyroid replacement meds
(mine basically died) and some other pretty heavy duty drugs  (all works,
I'm fine), but my drs have all said that it is going to be very difficult
for me to lose weight; that the best thing I can do for myself is to be
fit, strong, and healthy, and not to sweat the weight issue.

Eating healthy is always excellent, but it won't always fix the problems.

Arlys


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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
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And from the other end of the spectrum... My grandmother was raised in the south before we knew some of the things we know now about nutrition, fat, etc. Everything she ate as a child and cooked as an adult had bacon fat, butter, cream etc. Many dishes were fried and/or had gravy on them. I think you get the picture. She didn't "work out" and only received the exercise gained from house and yard work. She wasn't obese, but she wasn't stick thin either. She was a bit "fluffy" but by no means fat.
   
  And she lived to be 103 with no major health problems. She drove her own car well into her 90s and lived alone taking care of herself until she was 100. She never lost her mental awareness until she had the stroke that killed her. Genetics definitely plays a major role in things, as well.

Exstock <exstock@gmail.com> wrote:
    
----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
...
> The dramtic rise in obestity, heart disease, cancer, autoimmune 
  >diseases like MS, type II diabeties, and the host of other "western" 
  >diseases aka the diseases of the kings are due to our SAD diet and 
  >lifestyle. You are what you eat and we currently eat a diet which has 
  >no history of safe consumption; <snip>

Just to be contrary, I have to contrast my personal experience to these findings. <more snip>
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I have two Past Patterns tea gown patterns - at least one of them is no lon=
ger in print. If you are interested, I can dig them out for you.=0A=0AKathy=
=0A~she of the still-huge hoard of patterns~=0A =0A=0AErmine, a lion rampan=
t tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, s=
lipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head =
erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-Ge=
orge Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of k=
nowledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. T=
hey can only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape y=
ou to their own image.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be smarter than spam. See how=
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ail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=0A
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Hi, 
I had the same problem when I tried to order it from amazon .com uk. I was ordering it from them because at the time it was cheaper. It was also at the time when the book was just released. Other vendors have it on their website and you can order it from the authors, also. If you want I can post the other sites that have it.

Catharine


-------------- Original message from REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>: -------------- 


> I just got my third "order delay" message from Barnes 
> and Noble regarding my order for The Tudor Tailor. Has 
> anybody else had trouble receiving this book? Should I 
> just try a different vendor? 
> 
> Thanks for any input. 
> 
> Rebecca Burch 
> Center Valley Farm 
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA 
> 
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and 
> the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Status: RO

Hee, hee, hee. Goes along with the itty bitty bladder club (only better)

=========


at my school, it was the Itty Bitty Titty Committee.  We even had t-shirts.



DB
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 09:59:15 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <133030.27460.qm@web1013.biz.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> from "Beteena
	Paradise" at Oct 02, 2007 01:52:42 AM
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Status: RO


Weighing in again on this.
 
> And from the other end of the spectrum... My grandmother was raised in the south before we knew some of the things we know now about nutrition, fat, etc. Everything she ate as a child and cooked as an adult had bacon fat, butter, cream etc. Many dishes were fried and/or had gravy on them. I think you get the picture. She didn't "work out" and only received the exercise gained from house and yard work. She wasn't obese, but she wasn't stick thin either. She was a bit "fluffy" but by no means fat.

I'm in the same boat - German heritage - lots of fried stuff, slices of 
butter on bread, butter fades into cakes by the pound ....
As long as we were working on the farm or in construction all was well.

That being said - the science is clear - ALL fats are unhealthy.  Basically they
stop your blood vessles from dilating for hours after you eat any fat.  It
dammages the walls, makes the platlets more sticky.  Know anyone with a heart
bypass yet?  Truth is all of their arteries are clogged. The Vietnam soldiers
who died in their early 20's all had signs of arteries clogging.  Based upon
that you can assume that everyone living a western diet has clogged arteries
and should be on a no-added-fat diet.

That being said; some people absorb lots of cholesterol from their diet and
some pass it right thru like a carnivore.

The science is not perfectly clear and never will be.  We know that the more
vegetarian the diet the healthier the people are.  We know that WHOLE foods
provide phytochemicals, fiber and a host of other things that help fight
cancer, obesity etc.  We know that active people eating such diets are
never overweight (go to rural China some time); yet when they adopt our
diet they adopt our diseases.

Science is barking up the wrong tree by testing things in isolation.  We now
know that, chemically created vitamins increase cancer, heart disease and
a host of other problems.  The solution to our health problems is expensive
drugs with nasty side effects and isolated chemical supplements.

That's why I like Dr. John McDougalls take.  Eat what our bodies are adapted
to - a whole food, no added fat, mostly vegetarian diet.  Eat foods that have
generations of safe consumption behind them.

For anyone with MS check out the Swank diet.

For anyone with thyriod problems you really need to read what Dr. John McDougall
has found in research.  Slightly elevated thyroid hormone results in increased
cholesterol and risk of strokes and heart attacks.  You should treat before
you are offically hypothyroid.  Don't believe that soy & brassica and other
things (sea weed) have anything to do with it - there is no science behind that;
not unless you are deficient in iodine and with the amount of (iodized) salt we
get in our diet that ain't a possible.

Yes weight gain with hypothyroid is normal as is thickening of the skin....
There are a wack of symptoms and apparently it's usually an autoimmune disease
and if you have one you'll likely get another.  Read books by Mary Shomon for
hints about dealing with the weight.

I've been there, foods made no difference, but my cholesterol and weight came
down on medication. Armour works better for some - again read the books by
Mary Shomon.  In my case if I take the Thyroxine 3 hours after eating it's
as if I never took it - but it works if I take it an hour before eating.

McDougall Hot Health Issues: http://www.drmcdougall.com/medical_hottopics.html
McDougall Thyroid Summary:   http://www.drmcdougall.com/misc/2005nl/december/thyroid.htm

Recently I sorted my pants into two piles - those I could never wear again
and those that I could only hold up with a belt.  I now fit into my doublets
that I made 15 years ago; they're kind of loose now actually.

 - Eric

Not our of a job yet?  Keep buying foreign.
Kids got asmetha yet?  Keep driving.
Planet destroyed yet?  Keep consuming.
Have you left the planet better than you found it?
Have you left anything behind for your kids and their kids?
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You might want to let the authors know about the problems you are having. 
They are really quite personable and very willing to help out.

Sg 

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Subject: [h-cost] Sofi dress and painting/finally found
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Status: RO

Sofi gown
http://tinyurl.com/27vqcj

The Northern Italian painting that's similar. It has the puff and slash.
Still isn't 1525.
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/images/hb/hb_32.100.81.jpg

I have been toying with the idea of making the dress in the painting but not
so ornate for masquerades.
De


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
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Status: RO

 
OK, UK for me, but I was raised on pretty much a WW2 diet, if you put  the 
bananas and stuff back in.  S'what I got by being raised by my Nana,  who 
trained as a cook just pre WW2, but did most of her cooking during and just  after.
 
I still started wearing a bra at 9.
 
In reality for me my shape has less to do with what I eat, (goes back  
generations), and more to do with hereditary, and the fact I can't exercise as  much 
as I should cos of a childhood injury (got hit by a bike and thus have  
knackered knees).
 
That said, I'm lucky not to have the disease my dad had which demands a  
virtually 0 fat diet.
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 02/10/2007 05:05:30 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

The  dramtic rise in obestity, heart disease, cancer, autoimmune diseases
>  like
> MS, type II diabeties, and the host of other "western" diseases  aka the
> diseases
> of the kings are due to our SAD diet and  lifestyle.  You are what you eat
> and
> we currently eat a  diet which has no history of safe consumption; a
> chemical
>  hodgepodge of things which our body is not adapted to.  The amazing  thing
> is
> that most of those diseases can be reversed by a  healthy diet. Decades of
> dammage can be undone; medications tossed  aside.....







   
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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <881355.61261.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Order
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 07:52:44 -0500
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Status: RO

If you want to go with another vendor, you might check with Devra Langsam at 
Poison Pen Press www.poisonpenpress.com .  No discount, but she handles a 
wide range of medieval and Renaissance costuming books and The Tudor Tailor 
appears to be in stock.

Bear


>I just got my third "order delay" message from Barnes
> and Noble regarding my order for The Tudor Tailor. Has
> anybody else had trouble receiving this book? Should I
> just try a different vendor?
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Order
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <100220071215.28619.470236700003EF2D00006FCB22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF970E0B9B9B0A049D0E0C9C@bellsouth.net>
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Status: RO

I'm stuck with B&N because I'm using a gift card from
my in-laws. I guess I'll just do the 30 day order
extention and wait it out.

But thanks for the offer.

--- scarlettday@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Hi, 
> I had the same problem when I tried to order it from
> amazon .com uk. I was ordering it from them because
> at the time it was cheaper. It was also at the time
> when the book was just released. Other vendors have
> it on their website and you can order it from the
> authors, also. If you want I can post the other
> sites that have it.
> 
> Catharine
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from REBECCA BURCH
> <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>: -------------- 
> 
> 
> > I just got my third "order delay" message from
> Barnes 
> > and Noble regarding my order for The Tudor Tailor.
> Has 
> > anybody else had trouble receiving this book?
> Should I 
> > just try a different vendor? 
> > 
> > Thanks for any input. 
> > 
> > Rebecca Burch 
> > Center Valley Farm 
> > Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA 
> > 
> > The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the
> ones between the flat folds and 
> > the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 10:59:54 -0400
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for a pirate coat
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Status: RO

Well, there's www.reconstructinghistory.com, I've seen some pics of
the coats made up but I have no idea if they require tailoring and
all... If you want something easily put together and don't care much
about authenticity, you might be better off with Butterick and al.

On 10/1/07, Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:
> My husband is looking for a not very fancy great coat for pirate events.  He wants to be more merchant than showy pirate.
>
> Who has a good pattern that's not going to require full on tailoring, padstitching, etc.
>
> Julie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> I called my 22 yr old daughter (32A) and she said she gets bras either at
> Victoria's Secret or The Gap (yes, they sell underwear).

Yup, the Gap fit me too. Regular stores have either 32B or 34A,
neither of which fit me. Or try the Elita brand, if they sell them
around where you are. They're for young girls, but they have some
unpadded unwired triangular tops that fit me really well (most of
those types of things are aimed at sports, so they flatten - these
don't). And they're reasonably priced too.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
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>And from the other end of the spectrum... My grandmother 
>was raised in the south before we knew some of the things 
>we know now about nutrition, fat, etc. 

Nutritionists refer to the Standard American Diet as "SAD" for more reasons than one......

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Status: RO

Thanks for the suggestions!  I'll be checking them all out.
Julie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
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Status: RO

Quoting Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>:

> Hee, hee, hee. Goes along with the itty bitty bladder club (only better)
>
> =========
>
>
> at my school, it was the Itty Bitty Titty Committee.  We even had t-shirts.
>

*giggle*  I like that.  Was it on this list whee The Blessed Sisters  
of St. Boobula came up?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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-----Original Message-----
>That being said - the science is clear - ALL fats are unhealthy. <

De:I believe this is incorrect.

< Know anyone with a heart bypass yet?>

De: Yes, but it was oddly for a genetic abnormality and he is a Vegan.


<The science is not perfectly clear and never will be.  We know that the
more vegetarian the diet the healthier the people are.  We know that WHOLE
foods
provide phytochemicals, fiber and a host of other things that help fight
cancer, obesity etc.  We know that active people eating such diets are never
overweight (go to rural China some time); yet when they adopt our
diet they adopt our diseases.>>

De: I have a hard time believing that the Chinese do not have problems with
weigh except if they eat the "Western" diet. You are also broad brushing
with your statements.

<<Science is barking up the wrong tree by testing things in isolation.  We
now
know that, chemically created vitamins increase cancer, heart disease and
a host of other problems.>>

De: chemically treated? please clarify and please cite your sources for the
alleged increase in cancer and heart disease etc because of the "chemically"
treated vitamins.

<<That's why I like Dr. John McDougalls take.  Eat what our bodies are
adapted to - a whole food, no added fat, mostly vegetarian diet.  Eat foods
that have generations of safe consumption behind them.>>

De: "Eat what our bodies are adapted to" If you were to research old and
ancient societies you would find that several were not "mostly vegetarian
diet" And presently our bodies have adapted to modern diets ranging from
carnivore to Vegan. By the way, I'm not allergic but whole wheat stuff
doesn't agree with my stomach so I guess I am not adapted to whole wheat.

<<< Don't believe that soy>>>

De: Again, there is a chemical in soy that interferes with iodine
absorption. Iodine is needed for
http://www.vitamincfoundation.org/iodine.htm
All cells in the body need iodine for proper functioning. All glands
(thyroid, adrenal, etc.) especially need iodine for the production of
hormones. Dr. Brownstein believes that iodine deficiency is a major cause of
breast cancer and other diseases of the reproductive organs such as ovarian,
uterus and prostrate cysts and cancers. Iodine levels in US soil have fallen
50 per cent over the past 50 years and soil in the US is deficient in
iodine. The Great Lakes region has some of lowest soil iodine levels in the
world and this results in high levels of cancers related to iodine
deficiency. Dr. Brownstein has been quite successful in treating fibrocystic
breast disease (cysts in the breast) with iodine/iodine supplementation. In
one case a 37 year-old woman with severe fibrocystic breast disease was
completely cured after supplementing with 50 mgs of iodine a day for two
months. Women with larger breasts need more iodine than women with smaller
breasts. Other medical authorities agree that iodine deficiency can lead to
fibrocystic breast disease and/or ovarian cysts.


<& brassica >

De: Has been found to help in cancer prevention, it also has a chemical that
inhibits iodine absorption.

 <(sea weed) have anything to do with it - there is no science behind that;>

De: Kelp contains iodine and iron. There are studies that prove that Kelp
can be beneficial in helping the body to maintain good health. There has
been one European study, kelp was found to help with the effectiveness of
hormone meds for hypothyroid and lessen the dosage in several cases. Not a
cure but something to help.


<not unless you are deficient in iodine and with the amount of (iodized)
salt we get in our diet that ain't a possible.>>

De: Again a broad brushing assumption. My intake of iodinized salt (salt in
general) was lessened 15 yrs ago (voluntarily and not for medical reasons).
5 yrs ago I had to go back to it. 18 yrs ago I was getting sea salt before
it became nutritionally fashionable. By the way there are several types of
hypothyroid. One is Hashimoto's thyroiditis. I do not has this but my friend
does and it was caused by medication that she took when a child.  I will
check out this Dr. McDougall but so far he does not impress me and causes my
"something not quite kosher" radar to blink.
I will check out Ms Shomon as well.

De



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Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion 
history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I 
can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so 
the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't 
help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.

Sylrog

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 For those of you still planning on attending but not registered, you will need to have your registrations POSTMARKED by October 12 to secure your seat! As we close in on our maximum, we'll start a countdown on the website. Get your forms and information here: www.costumetalk.com.




       
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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It depends on how historically accurate you want the images to be, but Dover Books have several books of costume images that come with cds containing all of the images in several different formats. The books have Tom Tierney and Braun & Schneider illustrations.

  This shows a few:
  http://store.doverpublications.com/0486996190.html
   
  Teena
  
Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
  Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion 
history cds? 
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 09:59:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: eric@sca.uwaterloo.ca
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet
To: h-costume@indra.com
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That being said - the science is clear - ALL fats are unhealthy.  Basically 
they
stop your blood vessles from dilating for hours after you eat any fat.  It
dammages the walls, makes the platlets more sticky.  Know anyone with a 
heart
bypass yet?  Truth is all of their arteries are clogged. The Vietnam 
soldiers
who died in their early 20's all had signs of arteries clogging.  Based upon
that you can assume that everyone living a western diet has clogged arteries
and should be on a no-added-fat diet.

>Not entirely - you need some fats (fatty acids are essential for brain
function) - even a little bit of cholesterol.


For anyone with thyriod problems you really need to read what Dr. John 
McDougall
has found in research.  Slightly elevated thyroid hormone results in 
increased
cholesterol and risk of strokes and heart attacks.  You should treat before
you are offically hypothyroid.  Don't believe that soy & brassica and other
things (sea weed) have anything to do with it - there is no science behind 
that;
not unless you are deficient in iodine and with the amount of (iodized) salt 
we
get in our diet that ain't a possible.

>Interesting about the soy and brassica thing - I'd never heard that before. 
>I
read to avoid red meat and peanuts when I was first diagnosed. Yes, I am
another one with autoimmune hypothyroidism. I developed it as an exceedingly
healthy and essentially vegetarian 23 yr old. There is a genetic component, 
but not
in my family. I acquired it in another common way to get autoimmune
disorders, which is to have the 'flu. The immune system overreacts and 
starts
thinking parts of you look tasty. This is more likely in people who were not 
ill
much as children apparently - the immune system doesn't have a chance to
calibrate its response appropriately. I was a classic case of this. I was 
hardly ever
ill as a child, and when I was, I had the mildest possible case of whatever 
it was (in
fact I'm still like this to a certain extent).

This is so off topic, but since there are a few people out there with 
thyroid
problems, what do you do about collars? I have always been one of those
people who hate something close around their neck, and now I have a mild
goiter from time to time, it is worse.

Claire




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Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 13:06:44 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet/Thyroid goitre
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Status: RO


>
>For anyone with thyriod problems you really need to read what Dr. 
>John McDougall
>has found in research.  Slightly elevated thyroid hormone results in increased
>cholesterol and risk of strokes and heart attacks.  You should treat before
>you are offically hypothyroid.  Don't believe that soy & brassica and other
>things (sea weed) have anything to do with it - there is no science 
>behind that;
>not unless you are deficient in iodine and with the amount of 
>(iodized) salt we
>get in our diet that ain't a possible.

I have had a thyroid problem since shortly after my son was born - 
about 27 years ago. This is a regular occurrence, apparently - that 
you can have a flare up after pregnancy. I do not take salt, so 
iodized salt would have made no difference - it is a hormonal 
problem. I have put on weight because my hormone imbalance, eased by 
taking synthetic thyroxine, occasionally gets out of sync. 
(Underactive  = weight gain, normal = stable weight, overactive = 
weight loss, raised blood pressure, pulse etc. so I am not allowed this!)


>>Interesting about the soy and brassica thing - I'd never heard that before. I
>read to avoid red meat and peanuts when I was first diagnosed. Yes, I am
>another one with autoimmune hypothyroidism. I developed it as an exceedingly
>healthy and essentially vegetarian 23 yr old. There is a genetic 
>component, but not
>in my family. I acquired it in another common way to get autoimmune
>disorders, which is to have the 'flu. The immune system overreacts and starts
>thinking parts of you look tasty. This is more likely in people who 
>were not ill
>much as children apparently - the immune system doesn't have a chance to
>calibrate its response appropriately. I was a classic case of this. 
>I was hardly ever
>ill as a child, and when I was, I had the mildest possible case of 
>whatever it was (in
>fact I'm still like this to a certain extent).

I have not been told to avoid anything. I read I am supposed to eat 
this and that for hormone balance, but avoid the other stuff because 
of another medical problem, and eat such and such for a third. So I 
eat moderate amounts of food I like, and keep checking the blood 
levels. I do not have raised cholesterol, and have not been told they 
are related, although I do understand that osteoporosis can be a side effect.


>This is so off topic, but since there are a few people out there with thyroid
>problems, what do you do about collars? I have always been one of those
>people who hate something close around their neck, and now I have a mild
>goiter from time to time, it is worse.

I never wear anything on my neck these days, as I have a scar where 
most of the thyroid gland was removed. It doesn't hurt, but my neck 
muscles have thickened, and high necks are all too tight and 
uncomfortable. If I get really cold, I will put a soft scarf in the 
neck of my top, but hate it. I rarely ever do up my winter coats 
either, although my jacket has a "funnel" style neck, and doesn't 
actually touch my neck.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] book: Henry VIII costume 
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Status: RO

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward Paperback 
ISBN: 1905981414 Pub. Date: October 28, 2007
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=766

I had an email from Janet Hague (Maney Publishers) today. She says 
that this is now published and available. Since the hardcover is a 
bit expensive, I ordered the paper from Barnes and Noble (best price 
I could find).
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?r=1&EAN=1905981414

Beth 

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Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 10:17:37 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file and
make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you don't
have to break the binding of the books.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] costume photos


Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I
can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.

Sylrog

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Status: RO

Good idea, but I'd really like mostly primary sources.  I'll check out 
Dover though.  Thanx.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 2:16 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> It depends on how historically accurate you want the images to be, but 
> Dover Books have several books of costume images that come with cds 
> containing all of the images in several different formats. The books 
> have Tom Tierney and Braun & Schneider illustrations.
>
>   This shows a few:
>   http://store.doverpublications.com/0486996190.html
>
>   Teena
>
> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
>   Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for 
> costume/fashion
> history cds?
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 08:49:22 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes, but then I have to search all over the web to find what I want.  
Do you know one or two good online sources?  I'm talking history from 
ancient Mesopotamia up to the present.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 8:17 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file 
> and
> make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you 
> don't
> have to break the binding of the books.
>
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] costume photos
>
>
> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
> history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I
> can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
> the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
> help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Unless Dover has some really great new books, I would not go with Dover's
images. They are line drawings. So are
the Tom Tierney and Braun & Schneider illustrations.

There is a really expensive ($150+) costume cd on Amazon, but I do not know
how good it is.

If You Google "Images" under a painter's name or a time period  (eg:
Bronzino or Sixteenth century clothing), you will get great sources-- period
paintings. For real primary sources (clothes) look in Museum collections.
You will be able to get things you have not seen in books lots of times.

I have been teaching costume history  for years and When I made my CDs to
teach each topic/ period, that is what I did and the students love the
pictures.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos


Good idea, but I'd really like mostly primary sources.  I'll check out
Dover though.  Thanx.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 2:16 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> It depends on how historically accurate you want the images to be, but
> Dover Books have several books of costume images that come with cds
> containing all of the images in several different formats. The books
> have Tom Tierney and Braun & Schneider illustrations.
>
>   This shows a few:
>   http://store.doverpublications.com/0486996190.html
>
>   Teena
>
> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
>   Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for
> costume/fashion
> history cds?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

I know what you mean.   I'm trying to do a very brief overview of 
history in my costume and fashion industry class and I just don't have 
time for all this this semester.  Maybe I can work on it over winter 
break.  As it is, the job pays so poorly that I end up making about $5 
an hour with even a minimum amount of prep time.  Gotta start looking 
for a better teaching job, although at my age, I doubt I can find one.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:28 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Depends opn the period--- I teach the same thing. It took weeks, 
> months to
> get them to where I was happy. I don't know if there are any 
> short-cuts. Do
> one a week and you'll be fine.
>
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:49 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
>
>
> Yes, but then I have to search all over the web to find what I want.
> Do you know one or two good online sources?  I'm talking history from
> ancient Mesopotamia up to the present.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 8:17 AM, monica spence wrote:
>
>> Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file
>> and
>> make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you
>> don't
>> have to break the binding of the books.
>>
>> Monica
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] costume photos
>>
>>
>> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
>> history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either 
>> I
>> can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
>> the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
>> help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion 
> history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I 
> can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so the 
> pictures come out decently.  

Use a scanner. It's much easier to get a good image than with a camera. 
You can find them anywhere, computer stores, department stores, office 
supply, and they start under $100 -- sometimes under $50. If you're 
going to be using it to take many pictures, it may be a worthwhile 
investment.



Dawn

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] What about Dress at the Court of Henry VII? - was book:
	Henry VIII costume 
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Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:
  Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward Paperback 
ISBN: 1905981414 Pub. Date: October 28, 2007
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=766  COMMENT
  Gentles all,
  has anyone authored/edited a similar book about Dress at the later Plantagenet Courts & that of King Henry VII [7] ?
   Those of us  - such as my own House - who re-enact the English period 1450-1509  would find such a book invaluable, gathering into a single source data on the English-worn fashions of those 59 years. 
   
  In Service,
  Matthew Baker,
  dwelling in "old" Jersey




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 13:52:59 -0400
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Be sure you make sure that the pics are not under copywrite, though - or
get permission first.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos

Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file and
make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you
don't
have to break the binding of the books.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] costume photos


Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I
can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.

Sylrog

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: costume photos 
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Status: RO

I have been teaching a seminar on the history of fashion since  
1999.   I used to lug many different books to class each week and use  
an opaque projector to show those images!  But, sometime around late  
2000 I started scanning the best pictures.  Sometimes I even bought a  
new copy (used) of the books I was heavily scanning from so that I  
could release the bindings and scan more easily.  Then I made  
powerpoint presentations and brought a computer and projector to the  
school.

Since I own (often 2 copies) of the books I scanned and only use the  
scanned images to make it easier to see the images in the classroom   
(and quicker to change from one book to another) I feel I have  
complied with the meaning of the law, if not the letter of the law.  
It's only the technology of the presentation that I have changed.

If you add images from the internet to your powerpoint presentations  
for class be sure to credit the museum/website that you lift them  
from.  I am not a copyright lawyer so I don't know the legalities of  
using these images but if you use them only in your class and do not  
make a bunch of copies of your presentations and sell them you might  
get away with using the images for education and not be in danger of  
lawsuit.  Some websites specifically state that you may not use their  
images without their permission, however that does not mean that you  
cannot put a link in your presentation and go to their website during  
class (if you have a live internet connection in your classroom).  i  
have done that with the Metropolitan Museum, and even personal  
websites of members of this list.  If you do this you must log on  
earlier in the day before class and make sure your links are still  
good.  Since my class runs for 12 weeks the links have often changed  
since I last visited them.

If you are in a high profile setting or a school that has a legal  
department you might ask for legal counsel to advise you about using  
the images from websites or books you do not own.

Good Luck!
Agnes Gawne



>    1. Re: costume photos (Sylvia Rognstad)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:50:42 -0600
> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <647e0801be22135bb21a414f7a3230ad@ntw.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
> I know what you mean.   I'm trying to do a very brief overview of
> history in my costume and fashion industry class and I just don't have
> time for all this this semester.  Maybe I can work on it over winter
> break.  As it is, the job pays so poorly that I end up making about $5
> an hour with even a minimum amount of prep time.  Gotta start looking
> for a better teaching job, although at my age, I doubt I can find one.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:28 AM, monica spence wrote:
>
>> Depends opn the period--- I teach the same thing. It took weeks,
>> months to
>> get them to where I was happy. I don't know if there are any
>> short-cuts. Do
>> one a week and you'll be fine.

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Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 11:28:51 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Depends opn the period--- I teach the same thing. It took weeks, months to
get them to where I was happy. I don't know if there are any short-cuts. Do
one a week and you'll be fine.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos


Yes, but then I have to search all over the web to find what I want.
Do you know one or two good online sources?  I'm talking history from
ancient Mesopotamia up to the present.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 8:17 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file
> and
> make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you
> don't
> have to break the binding of the books.
>
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] costume photos
>
>
> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
> history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I
> can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
> the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
> help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:12:00 -0700
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Status: RO

On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:52 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Be sure you make sure that the pics are not under copywrite, though  
> - or
> get permission first.

Copywriting is what a copywriter does.

Copyright is an intellectual property. Simply put, it's the right to  
control reproduction and use of a work. That's why it's "right" and  
not "write."

Copywrite is, well, nothing. It's kind of like "irregardless." It's a  
non-word substituted for a real one.

If this is for non-profit educational use, it may fall under "fair  
use." The University of Texas has an excellent "Crash Course in  
Copyright" with an extensive section (that's understandable by the  
hoi polloi, not just lawyers) on fair use.
<http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm>

andy
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 16:48:39 -0600
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Status: RO

I have a scanner but it only works with my old computer and to transfer 
images to my laptop or burn cds doesn't work.  Why I hadn't thought of 
that at this point, beats me.  Guess I just need to buy a new scanner.  
Thanks for bringing that up, although I do recall when I used to use 
the scanner I have it didn't print book photos very well.  I can't 
remember if they looked better on the computer.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:18 AM, Dawn wrote:

> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for 
>> costume/fashion history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of 
>> books but either I can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the 
>> camera steady enough so the pictures come out decently.
>
> Use a scanner. It's much easier to get a good image than with a 
> camera. You can find them anywhere, computer stores, department 
> stores, office supply, and they start under $100 -- sometimes under 
> $50. If you're going to be using it to take many pictures, it may be a 
> worthwhile investment.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
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Status: RO

This DVD:
http://www.digitale-bibliothek.de/scripts/ts.dll?mp=/art/1716/
might be useful to you; you can see the types of images it has at:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:The_Yorck_Project
In fact, you could just as easily browse through all they have in the second 
link (keep hitting the next 200 link, as there's TONS--10,000!) rather than 
trying to deal with ordering from a German language site.  They do have 
images from lots of eras, though I don't know how far back they go.

For more info on the project & the legalities (public domain) read this:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Commons:10%2C000_paintings_from_Directmedia

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] Danish Costume
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

You are probably already aware of the Costume Group of Danish 
Museums, but just in case:
http://www.dragt.dk/index.eng.html

Danish costume bibliography.
http://www.dragt.dk/artikler/index.eng.html

Beth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:13:56 -0700
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Status: RO

On Oct 2, 2007, at 8:55 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/ 
> fashion history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books  
> but either I can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera  
> steady enough so the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod  
> but that didn't help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a  
> collection somewhere.

I'm all for scanners if you can do it without breaking the binding.  
If the originals are too large, use a camera and a "copy stand."  
They're available on eBay pretty cheap. I've been meaning to get a  
copy stand to photograph patterned fabrics with a large repeat.

andy


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 16:50:22 -0600
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Status: RO

Does one need permission just to take pics to show for a class?  
There's no way I am going to try to do that for all the books I'm  
copying out of.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:52 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Be sure you make sure that the pics are not under copywrite, though - 
> or
> get permission first.
>
> Patty
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of monica spence
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
>
> Download pics from the web, put them into your computer picture file 
> and
> make your own Powerpoint presentation. Works beautifully--- and you
> don't
> have to break the binding of the books.
>
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 11:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] costume photos
>
>
> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/fashion
> history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I
> can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so
> the pictures come out decently.  I bought a tripod but that didn't
> help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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On Oct 3, 2007, at 3:50 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Does one need permission just to take pics to show for a class?   
> There's no way I am going to try to do that for all the books I'm   
> copying out of.

<http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm>

UT's Crash Course in Copyright.

Short answer: probably not. Read it, though.

andy

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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/3/2007 7:29:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
exstock@gmail.com writes:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:The_Yorck_Project



******************
 
Nice!
 
But they're alphabetized by the artists' FIRST names????  Weird.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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In a message dated 10/3/2007 8:53:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
RICKARPA@muc.edu writes:

Copywriting is what a copywriter does.

Copyright is an  intellectual property. Simply put, it's the right to  
control  reproduction and use of a work. That's why it's "right" and  
not  "write."




***************
 
 
How about a copywright? [One who "makes" or "builds" a copy?]  :-P



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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In a message dated 10/3/2007 9:05:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
attrembl@bovil.com writes:

On Oct  3, 2007, at 3:50 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Does one need permission  just to take pics to show for a class?   
> There's no way I  am going to try to do that for all the books I'm   
> copying  out  of.

<http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm>

UT's  Crash Course in Copyright.

Short answer: probably not. Read it,  though.




*****************
 
It seems to me you only need permission if you're making money directly off  
the image.



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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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...or maybe copywights for virtual copies. :-)=20

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Wed 10/3/2007 9:45 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos





In a message dated 10/3/2007 8:53:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20
RICKARPA@muc.edu writes:

Copywriting is what a copywriter does.

Copyright is an  intellectual property. Simply put, it's the right to=20
control  reproduction and use of a work. That's why it's "right" and=20
not  "write."




***************


How about a copywright? [One who "makes" or "builds" a copy?]  :-P



************************************** See what's new at =
http://www.aol.com <http://www.aol.com/>=20
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Oct  3 22:12:29 2007
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: scanners, costume/fashion history
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Status: RO

Check with your college library.  Ours has a free scanner for patrons  
to use--you can e-mail the pics to yourself but not print them in the  
library.  I imagine you could create some sort of presentation on  
your computer once you've got the images loaded.  Has anyone else  
tried this?

Suzanne


> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Date: October 3, 2007 11:18:53 AM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>> Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/ 
>> fashion history cds?  I've been trying to take photos out of books  
>> but either I can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera  
>> steady enough so the pictures come out decently.
>
> Use a scanner. It's much easier to get a good image than with a  
> camera. You can find them anywhere, computer stores, department  
> stores, office supply, and they start under $100 -- sometimes under  
> $50. If you're going to be using it to take many pictures, it may  
> be a worthwhile investment.
>
>
>
> Dawn

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Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt??  If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
       
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Edith Reardon wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt??  If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
>        

Warm & Natural is a very good quality cotton quilt batting, which you 
might be able to order off the internet. Their website lists some online 
sources: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html

It's not quite the same as raw cotton which was used in the 1800's, but 
it is a very good quality modern product.


Dawn

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From: Robin Netherton <rbnetherton@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 21:37:47 -0500
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Status: RO


> It seems to me you only need permission if you're making money=20
> directly off the image.

A common misconception, but it's not true. Whether or not you use the image=
 to make money (or even if you just charge money to cover the expenses of p=
ublishing and don't make anything) is irrelevant to whether you have the ri=
ght to publish the image in the first place.

(If that doesn't make sense, consider that if you give away my work for fre=
e, you are still potentially damaging my ability to earn money from my own =
work, if I so choose. You have also violated my right to control or even pr=
ohibit the distribution of my work, which is independent of monetary issues=
.)

Another common misconception: As long as you give credit by naming the crea=
tor, you can publish it without asking permission. Not true. That frees you=
 from a charge of plagiarism, but not from copyright restrictions.

That said, if you don't ask for money and you give credit, and you get call=
ed into court, the fact that you showed good intent and didn't profit may r=
educe or eliminate the amount of money the court makes you pay.=20

--Robin





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Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop =
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 21:18:09 -0600
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Status: RO

But I'm not publishing the photos I copy.  You keep using the word =20
publish.

Sylrog

On Oct 3, 2007, at 8:37 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
>> It seems to me you only need permission if you're making money
>> directly off the image.
>
> A common misconception, but it's not true. Whether or not you use the =20=

> image to make money (or even if you just charge money to cover the =20
> expenses of publishing and don't make anything) is irrelevant to =20
> whether you have the right to publish the image in the first place.
>
> (If that doesn't make sense, consider that if you give away my work =20=

> for free, you are still potentially damaging my ability to earn money =20=

> from my own work, if I so choose. You have also violated my right to =20=

> control or even prohibit the distribution of my work, which is =20
> independent of monetary issues.)
>
> Another common misconception: As long as you give credit by naming the =
=20
> creator, you can publish it without asking permission. Not true. That =20=

> frees you from a charge of plagiarism, but not from copyright =20
> restrictions.
>
> That said, if you don't ask for money and you give credit, and you get =
=20
> called into court, the fact that you showed good intent and didn't =20
> profit may reduce or eliminate the amount of money the court makes you =
=20
> pay.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. =20=

> Stop by today.
> http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?=20
> =
ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_OctWLtagline____________________________________________=20=

> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Sorry Andy - brain fart.=20

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos

On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:52 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Be sure you make sure that the pics are not under copywrite, though =20
> - or
> get permission first.

Copywriting is what a copywriter does.

Copyright is an intellectual property. Simply put, it's the right to =20
control reproduction and use of a work. That's why it's "right" and =20
not "write."

Copywrite is, well, nothing. It's kind of like "irregardless." It's a =20
non-word substituted for a real one.

If this is for non-profit educational use, it may fall under "fair =20
use." The University of Texas has an excellent "Crash Course in =20
Copyright" with an extensive section (that's understandable by the =20
hoi polloi, not just lawyers) on fair use.
<http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm>

andy
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Status: RO


> But I'm not publishing the photos I copy. You keep using the
> word publish.

I was speaking about copyright law, not about you specifically; I didn't wa=
nt the previous comment ("you only need permission if you're making money o=
ff it") to stand without discussion, because the issue of money is so often=
 misunderstood. Whether you need permission does not depend on whether mone=
y changes hands. In your case, you may well not need permission anyway, but=
 whether you're making money doesn't have anything to do with that.

Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and distribution o=
f copies of creative work that someone owns. I didn't follow the beginning =
of this thread closely, so I don't know what you're doing or whether the la=
w applies to you.

I am not a lawyer, but here's my understanding of some practical situations=
 I often see in my own work:

If you take photos from the book, make slides, and show them to a class, yo=
u're fine. Making slides to display for an educational presentation is well=
 within every interpretation of copyright law I've ever read. Note that I r=
efer specifically to "educational presentation." If you are putting on a sh=
ow for entertainment (even for free), you are no longer on firm ground.

If you make handouts with copies of the images, you are on muddier ground, =
because people can take the images home with them. If you make a CD and dis=
tribute it to the students, even as a "textbook" of sorts, you're over the =
line (regardless of whether they pay any money). These count as "publishing=
."

If you put one of the pictures on a poster for a school event, you are over=
 the line, but probably no one will bother you about it. If you put a pictu=
re into a newsletter or magazine, or onto a web page, you are over the line=
 and may very well be pursued over it. This is something I have experienced=
 from both sides!

And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. Our designer=
 created a cover design that used a "Superman" type treatment about "super =
fund raisers" and a visual image of an office worker opening his shirt to r=
eveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's "S." DC Comics saw one and made=
 us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to pay money t=
oo.

Another, less disastrous example. In leafing through a trade magazine, I no=
ticed an article on a magazine designer that included a photo of him in his=
 studio. Clearly visible on the wall of the studio was a piece of art showi=
ng an illuminated alphabet -- a signed and numbered art print I recognized =
because I own the same print myself. Amused, I sent a copy of the magazine =
to the artist, who was a personal friend. He saw something I hadn't noticed=
: The article itself used, as a decorative element, one of the illuminated =
letters taken from the poster. The photo of the framed poster on the wall w=
as fine. The lifting of the letter from the poster and its placement as an =
art element in a published article was theft. My friend sent a thank-you no=
te to me, and sent a modest bill for his graphic artwork to the magazine ed=
itor. The bill was paid.

I myself have had a copyright case in court, part of a group of a dozen wri=
ters who did work for a company that declared bankruptcy before paying us. =
As part of its bankruptcy proceedings, it sold its intellectual assets, inc=
luding the work that we had written. We sued on grounds that they didn't ye=
t own copyright to the work and thus couldn't legally sell it. We won. Havi=
ng established our claim to the property (which we didn't really care about=
, as the articles were made to suit a particular publication and weren't us=
eful to us), our lawyer then negotiated a small settlement with the purchas=
ing company to give up our claim. Pennies on the dollar compared to what we=
 would have gotten in pay for our work, but at least it was something.

Closer to the point here: I use slides of artwork in my lectures, as many a=
s 100 in a single lecture. Some come from books. Some come from the artwork=
 itself; of the latter, some of the photos were taken under explicit agreem=
ents with the owning libraries/museums regarding how I would use the images=
 (e.g. research and teaching, but not publication or distribution). My use =
is legal; if I disseminated the images, it would not be. When I have used i=
mages in my published papers, I have paid for reproduction permission.

Last time I did a lecture, I was almost at the end before I learned that so=
meone in the audience had been using her cellphone to take a picture of eve=
ry single one of my slides. (The room is dark when I show slides, so I didn=
't see her.) We had a serious talk. If one of those carefully negotiated ph=
otos appears on a website, it could destroy my relationship with a museum. =
>From now on, I will have to make an announcement that This Is Not Permitted=
. This question never came up 10 years ago!

--Robin



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook =96 together at last. =A0=
Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=3DCL10062=
6971033=
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. Our designer created a cover design that used a "Superman" type treatment about "super fund raisers" and a visual image of an office worker opening his shirt to reveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's "S." DC Comics saw one and made us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to pay money too.
>   

That's trademark, an entirely different and much stranger subject.

andy

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Status: RO



Robin Netherton wrote:
>>But I'm not publishing the photos I copy. You keep using the
>>word publish.
> 
> 
> I was speaking about copyright law, not about you specifically; I didn't want the previous comment ("you only need permission if you're making money off it") to stand without discussion, because the issue of money is so often misunderstood. Whether you need permission does not depend on whether money changes hands. In your case, you may well not need permission anyway, but whether you're making money doesn't have anything to do with that.
> 
> Copyright law focuses on publishing 


Actually, copyright literally covers making copies, and does not only 
apply to distribution or sale of them. Scanning is copying. 
Photocopying is copying. Using a digital camera to capture a book is 
copying.  This is why it's illegal to copy a copyrighted book to save 
yourself the price of buying it; you're publishing a one-off for yourself.

Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes place 
within educational institutions, and not to an individual reading any 
book he or she may find informative (which after all applies to every 
nonfiction work).

Fran

Fran
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Status: RO


I wrote> > And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. O=
ur designer created a cover design that used a "Superman" type treatment ab=
out "super fund raisers" and a visual image of an office worker opening his=
 shirt to reveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's "S." DC Comics saw o=
ne and made us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to =
pay money too.> > That's trademark, an entirely different and much stranger=
 subject.
Oops, yes, you're right. I was mentally meandering around examples of "righ=
ts," and remembered the one time I worked at a publication that was hit for=
 a violation. Trademark, in this case, though I suppose if our designer had=
 actually taken the art off a comic book cover and used it in his design, c=
opyright would have come into play too!
=20
--Robin
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop =
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http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_Oc=
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 01:10:41 -0500
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Status: RO


Fran quoted me thus:

>> Copyright law focuses on publishing

... cutting off my sentence midstream. Then she added:

> Actually, copyright literally covers making copies, and does
> not only apply to distribution or sale of them.

However, if Fran had included the rest of my sentence, it would have been c=
lear that I was saying the same thing, as my full sentence went on to defin=
e "publishing" (for purposes of describing copyright) -- as the making of c=
opies. My full sentence was this:

"Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and distribution =
of copies of creative work that someone owns."

Fran equated the terms herself later in her paragraph:

> This is why it's illegal to copy a copyrighted book to save
> yourself the price of buying it; you're publishing a one-off
> for yourself.

Yes: copying as publishing.

The rest of my post should also have made it abundantly obvious I was not d=
efining publishing here as requiring "sale." "Distribution" is fuzzier, and=
 I included it in that sentence in part because I didn't want to get sidetr=
acked onto the issue of copying things for personal use. Note that I said "=
focuses on," not "covers." Truth is, although the exact definition of copyr=
ight is broader, copyright *cases* generally arise only when a copy goes be=
yond the knowledge and use of a single person. Technically it is often a vi=
olation to make a copy of something for personal use, but from a practical =
standpoint, if no one hears the tree fall, it makes no sound. As far as I k=
now, personal use wasn't the concern in the thread, so I concentrated on th=
e practical issue that was under discussion.

Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally resor=
ted to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when they're out o=
f print or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to them longer than IL=
L will let me. In the one chance in a million that the copyright owners in =
these cases wander into my private office and find the copies in my files, =
I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in question, though, I suspect the aut=
hors would more likely be amazed that would go to such lengths to get them.=
)

Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens every day =
in every university library and Kinko's. When, in writing a paper, I quote =
from or cite a book that I don't own, I routinely copy the relevant pages, =
so I can go back to the reference for context or fact-checking as needed. I=
 also copy the title page and copyright page of the book and staple them to=
 the copies of the individual pages. I consider that good scholarly practic=
e, and I can't imagine anyone hauling me in for copyright violation for tha=
t.

> Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes place
> within educational institutions, and not to an individual reading any
> book he or she may find informative (which after all applies to every
> nonfiction work).

Which is why I was careful to refer specifically to "educational presentati=
ons," not just "educational use," in my example. Which, again, I think was =
relevant to the thread at hand.

I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are characte=
rized as classes but not within the walls of an institution. The SCA has ev=
ents that are full of classes, and it has legal status as a 501(c)3 nonprof=
it educational organization. A lawyer could make a good case that a class a=
t an SCA "university" event is an educational presentation, but just Xeroxi=
ng stuff for reference in making SCA costumes probably wouldn't fly.

Many of my own slides are from books I don't own. I made the copies from li=
brary copies, or in the rare book rooms of libraries, often using the libra=
ry's own photo setup, with permission from the rare book librarian. (And ye=
s, some "rare" books are still young enough to be under copyright.) They kn=
ew I'd be using the slides for research and lectures. I've never run into a=
nyone who questions whether this is appropriate educational use ... even th=
ough I am not affiliated with and do not teach at an educational institutio=
n.

Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting prece=
dents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of copyright,=
 and I would encourage her to read my posts with a consideration of the con=
text of the conversation. I have no desire or time to engage in an argument=
 over semantics, particularly as we are on the same side of the issue. I sh=
ould also note that my goal in entering into this discussion is to provide =
helpful guidance to list members who want to do the right thing, and I do n=
ot intend to get into a protracted discussion about fine points of the law =
that do not apply to the situation at hand.

--Robin

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook =96 together at last. =A0=
Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=3DCL10062=
6971033=
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Status: RO


Robin Netherton wrote:

 > Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally 
resorted to > Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when 
they're out of print or otherwise > unavailable and I need to refer to 
them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a > million that 
the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and 
find > the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in 
question, though, I > suspect the authors would more likely be amazed 
that would go to such lengths to get them.)

Ah:  So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is 
ethical as long as you don’t get caught?

I don’t leave my purse, or any other property, unattended around people 
with attitudes like that.

 > Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
every day in every university library and Kinko's.

Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
somewhere, it’s OK for you to commit any of them?

I don’t even want to be in the room with people who have ethics like 
that.  Who knows what they’d feel OK about doing.

Somehow, I manage to do research—-although there’s so much 
grandstanding, exaggeration, and sheer bullshit about “research” and 
“scholarship” in reenactment communities I try not to mention it 
much—-without violating copyrights.  This is greatly facilitated by 
actually buying the books, and yes I also buy “rare” books.

 > I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are 
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution.

Then since you’re giving such lectures, don’t you think you should find 
out for sure?

There are also a number of other legal guidelines, including using only 
small portions of a work and a small number of works, having the need 
arise when there is not enough time to purchase the publications, and 
others.

 > Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting 
precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

Not fully understanding it does not give you license to do whatever 
you’d like.

 > I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of 
copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a 
consideration of the context of the conversation.

OK, so we’re using the third person now, not addressing each other.  So: 
I don’t think from the above comments that Robin and I are in agreement 
about copyright law. I’d encourage Robin to read some books on it. Nolo 
Press has a good selection.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Status: RO


Fran quoted me:

> Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally
> resorted to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when
> they're out of print or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to
> them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a million that
> the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and
> find the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in
> question, though, I suspect the authors would more likely be amazed
> that would go to such lengths to get them.)

And responded:

> Ah: So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
> ethical as long as you don=92t get caught?

Anyone who could take my extremely specific statement above and make the su=
bsequent sweeping (and very much incorrect) inference is not worth engaging=
 in conversation.=20

--Robin


_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!=A0 Play Star Shuffle:=A0 the word scramble =
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=3Dstarshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc=
t=
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> Closer to the point here: I use slides of artwork in my lectures, as
> many as 100 in a single lecture. Some come from books. Some come from
> the artwork itself; of the latter, some of the photos were taken
> under explicit agreements with the owning libraries/museums regarding
> how I would use the images (e.g. research and teaching, but not
> publication or distribution). My use is legal; if I disseminated the
> images, it would not be. When I have used images in my published
> papers, I have paid for reproduction permission.

On the other hand, see 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeman_Art_Library_v._Corel_Corp. -- 
it's not so clear that museums can always restrict your use of the 
artwork they own.

Of course, if you have made an agreement with them, it's ethical to 
honor it. But Bridgeman v. Corel indicates that such agreements aren't 
always necessary. Then again, if you want to maintain a good working 
relationship with the museums... *sigh*

W

-- 
*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear/
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  | 23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"----*
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:00:40 -0600
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Status: RO

So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, 
huh?

Sylrog
On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
> place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
> reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
> applies to every nonfiction work).
>
>
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Thank you all in bringing some clarification to this murky issue.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos


Fran quoted me thus:

>> Copyright law focuses on publishing

... cutting off my sentence midstream. Then she added:

> Actually, copyright literally covers making copies, and does
> not only apply to distribution or sale of them.

However, if Fran had included the rest of my sentence, it would have =
been clear that I was saying the same thing, as my full sentence went on =
to define "publishing" (for purposes of describing copyright) -- as the =
making of copies. My full sentence was this:

"Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and =
distribution of copies of creative work that someone owns."

Fran equated the terms herself later in her paragraph:

> This is why it's illegal to copy a copyrighted book to save
> yourself the price of buying it; you're publishing a one-off
> for yourself.

Yes: copying as publishing.

The rest of my post should also have made it abundantly obvious I was =
not defining publishing here as requiring "sale." "Distribution" is =
fuzzier, and I included it in that sentence in part because I didn't =
want to get sidetracked onto the issue of copying things for personal =
use. Note that I said "focuses on," not "covers." Truth is, although the =
exact definition of copyright is broader, copyright *cases* generally =
arise only when a copy goes beyond the knowledge and use of a single =
person. Technically it is often a violation to make a copy of something =
for personal use, but from a practical standpoint, if no one hears the =
tree fall, it makes no sound. As far as I know, personal use wasn't the =
concern in the thread, so I concentrated on the practical issue that was =
under discussion.

Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally =
resorted to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when =
they're out of print or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to =
them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a million that =
the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and =
find the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in =
question, though, I suspect the authors would more likely be amazed that =
would go to such lengths to get them.)

Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens every =
day in every university library and Kinko's. When, in writing a paper, I =
quote from or cite a book that I don't own, I routinely copy the =
relevant pages, so I can go back to the reference for context or =
fact-checking as needed. I also copy the title page and copyright page =
of the book and staple them to the copies of the individual pages. I =
consider that good scholarly practice, and I can't imagine anyone =
hauling me in for copyright violation for that.

> Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes =
place
> within educational institutions, and not to an individual reading any
> book he or she may find informative (which after all applies to every
> nonfiction work).

Which is why I was careful to refer specifically to "educational =
presentations," not just "educational use," in my example. Which, again, =
I think was relevant to the thread at hand.

I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are =
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution. The =
SCA has events that are full of classes, and it has legal status as a =
501(c)3 nonprofit educational organization. A lawyer could make a good =
case that a class at an SCA "university" event is an educational =
presentation, but just Xeroxing stuff for reference in making SCA =
costumes probably wouldn't fly.

Many of my own slides are from books I don't own. I made the copies from =
library copies, or in the rare book rooms of libraries, often using the =
library's own photo setup, with permission from the rare book librarian. =
(And yes, some "rare" books are still young enough to be under =
copyright.) They knew I'd be using the slides for research and lectures. =
I've never run into anyone who questions whether this is appropriate =
educational use ... even though I am not affiliated with and do not =
teach at an educational institution.

Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting =
precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of =
copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a =
consideration of the context of the conversation. I have no desire or =
time to engage in an argument over semantics, particularly as we are on =
the same side of the issue. I should also note that my goal in entering =
into this discussion is to provide helpful guidance to list members who =
want to do the right thing, and I do not intend to get into a protracted =
discussion about fine points of the law that do not apply to the =
situation at hand.

--Robin

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook - together at last. =
=A0Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=3DCL100=
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Status: RO

Wow - that was harsh!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos


Robin Netherton wrote:

 > Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally

resorted to > Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when=20
they're out of print or otherwise > unavailable and I need to refer to=20
them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a > million that=20
the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and=20
find > the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in=20
question, though, I > suspect the authors would more likely be amazed=20
that would go to such lengths to get them.)

Ah:  So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is=20
ethical as long as you don't get caught?

I don't leave my purse, or any other property, unattended around people=20
with attitudes like that.

 > Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens=20
every day in every university library and Kinko's.

Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day,=20
somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

I don't even want to be in the room with people who have ethics like=20
that.  Who knows what they'd feel OK about doing.

Somehow, I manage to do research--although there's so much=20
grandstanding, exaggeration, and sheer bullshit about "research" and=20
"scholarship" in reenactment communities I try not to mention it=20
much--without violating copyrights.  This is greatly facilitated by=20
actually buying the books, and yes I also buy "rare" books.

 > I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are=20
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution.

Then since you're giving such lectures, don't you think you should find=20
out for sure?

There are also a number of other legal guidelines, including using only=20
small portions of a work and a small number of works, having the need=20
arise when there is not enough time to purchase the publications, and=20
others.

 > Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting

precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

Not fully understanding it does not give you license to do whatever=20
you'd like.

 > I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of=20
copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a=20
consideration of the context of the conversation.

OK, so we're using the third person now, not addressing each other.  So:

I don't think from the above comments that Robin and I are in agreement=20
about copyright law. I'd encourage Robin to read some books on it. Nolo=20
Press has a good selection.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re [h-cost] cotton wool
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 09:40:38 -0500
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Status: RO




>> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? 
>> If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
>>


sorry, I just re-read the original question -- I skipped over the "period 
quilt" part and was thinking you wanted raw cotton to stuff part of a 
costume.

Plain, all-cotton quilt batts are available all over the internet. The first 
response to your question was more appropriate than mine.  :)

Denise 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:43:03 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I agree.  Can we not try to insult one another and start flame wars?

Sylrob

On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:36 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Wow - that was harsh!
>
> Patty
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:36 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
>
>
> Robin Netherton wrote:
>
>> Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally
>
> resorted to > Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when
> they're out of print or otherwise > unavailable and I need to refer to
> them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a > million that
> the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and
> find > the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in
> question, though, I > suspect the authors would more likely be amazed
> that would go to such lengths to get them.)
>
> Ah:  So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
> ethical as long as you don't get caught?
>
> I don't leave my purse, or any other property, unattended around people
> with attitudes like that.
>
>> Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens
> every day in every university library and Kinko's.
>
> Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day,
> somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?
>
> I don't even want to be in the room with people who have ethics like
> that.  Who knows what they'd feel OK about doing.
>
> Somehow, I manage to do research--although there's so much
> grandstanding, exaggeration, and sheer bullshit about "research" and
> "scholarship" in reenactment communities I try not to mention it
> much--without violating copyrights.  This is greatly facilitated by
> actually buying the books, and yes I also buy "rare" books.
>
>> I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are
> characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution.
>
> Then since you're giving such lectures, don't you think you should find
> out for sure?
>
> There are also a number of other legal guidelines, including using only
> small portions of a work and a small number of works, having the need
> arise when there is not enough time to purchase the publications, and
> others.
>
>> Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting
>
> precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.
>
> Not fully understanding it does not give you license to do whatever
> you'd like.
>
>> I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of
> copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a
> consideration of the context of the conversation.
>
> OK, so we're using the third person now, not addressing each other.  
> So:
>
> I don't think from the above comments that Robin and I are in agreement
> about copyright law. I'd encourage Robin to read some books on it. Nolo
> Press has a good selection.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:12:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something that is loose fibres.
   
  Thanks for trying
   
  Brin Kendall

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Edith Reardon wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
> 

Warm & Natural is a very good quality cotton quilt batting, which you 
might be able to order off the internet. Their website lists some online 
sources: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html

It's not quite the same as raw cotton which was used in the 1800's, but 
it is a very good quality modern product.


Dawn

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cotton wool
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:49:11 -0400
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Status: RO

I got an enormous roll of rough cotton batting from an upholstery
supplier. It wasn't cheap and the shipping was rather much too, IIRC.
But, I have enough of this stuff to make many, many quilts or quilted
garments. It's really thick, and can be peeled apart at the thickness
desired. It's messier to use than the pre-made stuff, but once I got the
hang of it I found it no worse than anything else. When it's made up and
washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just
can't imitate. 

I got mine here:
http://vandykes.resultspage.com/search?w=cotton+batting

Homepage= www.vandykes.com 

If shipping to where you are is too much, I'd suggest contacting a local
upholsterer to see if they can get it for you.

HTH-

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Edith Reardon
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something
that is loose fibres.
   
  Thanks for trying
   
  Brin Kendall

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
> every day in every university library and Kinko's.
>
> Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
> somewhere, it’s OK for you to commit any of them?

And we're back to the assumption of criminal intent and sniping.

Fair use, people. Fair use.
<http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test>

The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain 
English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in 
his system.

Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, 
you can check out the Stanford Copyright & Fair Use Center 
<http://fairuse.stanford.edu/>. They've got their own explanation of the 
Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:
<http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/9-b.html>

andy

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a =
"new"
publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just part =
of
the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for them to use =
on
their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one individually.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos


> But I'm not publishing the photos I copy. You keep using the word=20
> publish.

I was speaking about copyright law, not about you specifically; I didn't
want the previous comment ("you only need permission if you're making =
money
off it") to stand without discussion, because the issue of money is so =
often
misunderstood. Whether you need permission does not depend on whether =
money
changes hands. In your case, you may well not need permission anyway, =
but
whether you're making money doesn't have anything to do with that.

Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and =
distribution of
copies of creative work that someone owns. I didn't follow the beginning =
of
this thread closely, so I don't know what you're doing or whether the =
law
applies to you.

I am not a lawyer, but here's my understanding of some practical =
situations
I often see in my own work:

If you take photos from the book, make slides, and show them to a class,
you're fine. Making slides to display for an educational presentation is
well within every interpretation of copyright law I've ever read. Note =
that
I refer specifically to "educational presentation." If you are putting =
on a
show for entertainment (even for free), you are no longer on firm =
ground.

If you make handouts with copies of the images, you are on muddier =
ground,
because people can take the images home with them. If you make a CD and
distribute it to the students, even as a "textbook" of sorts, you're =
over
the line (regardless of whether they pay any money). These count as
"publishing."

If you put one of the pictures on a poster for a school event, you are =
over
the line, but probably no one will bother you about it. If you put a =
picture
into a newsletter or magazine, or onto a web page, you are over the line =
and
may very well be pursued over it. This is something I have experienced =
from
both sides!

And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. Our =
designer
created a cover design that used a "Superman" type treatment about =
"super
fund raisers" and a visual image of an office worker opening his shirt =
to
reveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's "S." DC Comics saw one and =
made
us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to pay money
too.

Another, less disastrous example. In leafing through a trade magazine, I
noticed an article on a magazine designer that included a photo of him =
in
his studio. Clearly visible on the wall of the studio was a piece of art
showing an illuminated alphabet -- a signed and numbered art print I
recognized because I own the same print myself. Amused, I sent a copy of =
the
magazine to the artist, who was a personal friend. He saw something I =
hadn't
noticed: The article itself used, as a decorative element, one of the
illuminated letters taken from the poster. The photo of the framed =
poster on
the wall was fine. The lifting of the letter from the poster and its
placement as an art element in a published article was theft. My friend =
sent
a thank-you note to me, and sent a modest bill for his graphic artwork =
to
the magazine editor. The bill was paid.

I myself have had a copyright case in court, part of a group of a dozen
writers who did work for a company that declared bankruptcy before =
paying
us. As part of its bankruptcy proceedings, it sold its intellectual =
assets,
including the work that we had written. We sued on grounds that they =
didn't
yet own copyright to the work and thus couldn't legally sell it. We won.
Having established our claim to the property (which we didn't really =
care
about, as the articles were made to suit a particular publication and
weren't useful to us), our lawyer then negotiated a small settlement =
with
the purchasing company to give up our claim. Pennies on the dollar =
compared
to what we would have gotten in pay for our work, but at least it was
something.

Closer to the point here: I use slides of artwork in my lectures, as =
many as
100 in a single lecture. Some come from books. Some come from the =
artwork
itself; of the latter, some of the photos were taken under explicit
agreements with the owning libraries/museums regarding how I would use =
the
images (e.g. research and teaching, but not publication or =
distribution). My
use is legal; if I disseminated the images, it would not be. When I have
used images in my published papers, I have paid for reproduction =
permission.

Last time I did a lecture, I was almost at the end before I learned that
someone in the audience had been using her cellphone to take a picture =
of
every single one of my slides. (The room is dark when I show slides, so =
I
didn't see her.) We had a serious talk. If one of those carefully =
negotiated
photos appears on a website, it could destroy my relationship with a =
museum.
>From now on, I will have to make an announcement that This Is Not
Permitted. This question never came up 10 years ago!

--Robin



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook =96 together at last. =
=A0Get
it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=3DCL100=
62697
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <923482.44846.qm@web52211.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:37:25 -0500
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Status: RO

> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt??  If 
> there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
>


Look for local suppliers to people who do hand-spinning. If you have no 
local handspinners and handweavers supply, look on line. There are 
thousands. You can buy raw cotton, carded cotton, cotton roving, cotton puni 
(tiny carded and rolled pieces for spinning into fine thread) and cotton 
quilt batts.

If you want to remove the seeds yourself, raw uncarded cotton would probably 
be the cheapest. You may have to check the import laws governing seeds. (?) 
You can usually find the same product w/o seeds.

Denise
Iowa 

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Robin wrote:
 > Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
every day in every university library and Kinko's.

and Fran replied

> Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
> somewhere, itÃ†s OK for you to commit any of them?

I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section
of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: re [h-cost] cotton wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There is a product for just such ocassions sold by Joann Fabrics called Warm and Natural or Warm 'n Natural..it is unbleached cotton batting expressly for 100%natural quilting .
  Iyou might try to see if they also sell it on line at joanns.com
  hope this helps...
  Bambi

Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:
  


>> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? 
>> If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
>>


sorry, I just re-read the original question -- I skipped over the "period 
quilt" part and was thinking you wanted raw cotton to stuff part of a 
costume.

Plain, all-cotton quilt batts are available all over the internet. The first 
response to your question was more appropriate than mine. :)

Denise 

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Linda Rice wrote:
> I got an enormous roll of rough cotton batting from an upholstery
> supplier.....

  When it's made up and
> washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just
> can't imitate. 
> 

"Lumpy bumpy" is a 20th century phenomena that only happens when quilts 
get put into a washing machine. In the 1800's a quilt would have been 
hung and beaten, spot cleaned when necessary, and rarely completely 
emerged in water. Water makes the quilt quite heavy -- one person would 
have trouble lifting it -- and weakens the cotton fibers making them 
shred. Normally the filling would have remained quite flat within the 
quilt.

You can buy raw cotton by the bale here: http://www.cottonman.com/



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool
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Status: RO

Not sure what you mean by "loose fibers".  100% cotton or wool batting will have a much different appearance in a quilt than will the poly stuff.  Cotton and wool batting should be available at your local quilt store.  If you want "raw" cotton, see if there is a yarn shop in your area that sells unwashed cotton - I have one near me.
   
  Cactus

Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca> wrote:
  I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something that is loose fibres.

Thanks for trying

Brin Kendall

Dawn wrote:
Edith Reardon wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
> 

Warm & Natural is a very good quality cotton quilt batting, which you 
might be able to order off the internet. Their website lists some online 
sources: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html

It's not quite the same as raw cotton which was used in the 1800's, but 
it is a very good quality modern product.


Dawn

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Status: RO



> 
> 
>>Ah: So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
>>ethical as long as you don’t get caught?
> 
> 
> Anyone who could take my extremely specific statement

  above and make the subsequent sweeping (and very much incorrect)

  inference is not worth engaging in conversation.
> 
> --Robin


It's not a broad and sweeping statement.  What you seem to have said, in 
terms of one branch of ethics and law, is that whether a person obeys it 
depends on whether it is convenient and economical for them to do so, 
and whether they think the value of any research they may be doing 
automatically overrides the author's legal and moral rights.  Note, I 
have not attributed this to _your_ actions regarding copyright, but it 
seems to be a stance you approve, or that you are urging other people to 
approve.  As it's one of the standard copyright pirate arguments, it is 
not a stance that I can approve.

And not regarding you, but people in general, no, I don't trust my 
personal property with anyone who says they feel it's OK to steal 
intellectual property.  Of course, I did quit opening my personal 
library to people many years ago when I found out that one of them 
walked out with one of my books under her cape because she "couldn't 
afford it," then bragged to other people about doing so.

As for engaging me in conversation, you have already taken the absurd 
stance of talking about my statements "behind my back" as it were, to a 
group where you know very well I am present.  So it seems that even 
though you are engaging me in conversation, you will not admit to 
condescending to do so.  I have no idea why you can't say whatever you 
have to say clearly and directly.  However, your obfuscating your 
statements with "it's just for other people's education," and "copyright 
is all so unclear and hard to understand anyway," does not make it 
easier for me to understand what you mean.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 13:43:14 -0500
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Status: RO


>From Kate:

> Robin wrote:

>> Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that
>> happens every day in every university library and Kinko's.
>
> and Fran replied
>
>> Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every
>> day somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

Kate adds:

> I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library
> copying of a section of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private
> study is perfectly legal.

Yes, exactly. In my post, I was attempting to draw a contrast between this =
sort of legal fair-use copying of small bits -- routine and unremarkable --=
 vs. the question of copying whole books, as discussed in the preceding par=
agraph of my post. It appears I didn't draw the distinction clearly enough =
to be understood by all, and I appreciate you and Andrew making my point cl=
earer.

The example I gave here was my (perfectly legal) practice of copying a page=
 or two here and there (along with the title page and publishing info of th=
e book) so I have an accurate record of material I am citing or quoting in =
a scholarly article. I learned to do this when I realized how hard it was t=
o read my own handwriting in notes that were many years old, or found that =
I needed to check something like a city of publication to put in a footnote=
. I sometimes do this even with books I own so I have all the quotations fo=
r a given article in the same file. Plus I can happily run a highlighter ov=
er text on a Xerox!

Kinko's, by the way, is an American chain of copy centers. That is, they we=
re plain-old copy centers when they started sprouting up on college campuse=
s a couple of decades ago. Now they also offer Fedex shipping, office suppl=
ies, and a bewildering array of printing/fax/computer services. They're ope=
n 24 hours and I have spent many a late night there. I once assembled an an=
niversary-gift scrapbook there at 3am using their nice selection of acid-fr=
ee decorative papers and their good paper cutter. I figure the only thing t=
hey're missing now is a coffee bar.

--Robin

_________________________________________________________________
Boo!=A0Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare=
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Status: RO


> Fair use, people. Fair use.
> <http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test>
> 
> The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain 
> English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in 
> his system.
> 
> Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, 
> you can check out the Stanford Copyright & Fair Use Center 
> <http://fairuse.stanford.edu/>. They've got their own explanation of the 
> Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:
> <http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/9-b.html> 
> 


The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such as 
"I'm not making any money from it" or "I work for an educational 
institution" and assume that everything they want to do with material 
they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety of criteria 
they must meet.  Also, even, some people wave around the term "fair 
use," as if to say, "Well it exists, so whatever I'm doing must be fair 
use."  Not so.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in a manner which was a bit less off-putting.
  
Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
  
The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such as 
"I'm not making any money from it" or "I work for an educational 
institution" and assume that everything they want to do with material 
they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety of criteria 
they must meet. Also, even, some people wave around the term "fair 
use," as if to say, "Well it exists, so whatever I'm doing must be fair 
use." Not so.

Fran
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Status: RO

I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos--to Sylvia
References: <d08.1d3aa834.34359ff8@aol.com>	<BAY131-W33487FF393B0056D3F131DAAA80@phx.gbl>	<3aa89d7f7790f7d09edad5a3aa333643@ntw.net>	<BAY131-W92761E1B25D0AAE394720AAA80@phx.gbl>	<4704769C.3000502@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

Actually, instead of posting on a costuming list, what I'd recommend you 
to do is this:

Go to the head of your department.  Ask, "What are the departmental 
and/or university copyright guidelines for my use of this kind of 
material, in this manner, in my lectures?  Please give me a copy of 
printed guidelines.  And if we don't have any, the university lawyers 
should develop some. I want to do the right thing ethically, and other 
instructors probably do too. We need the proper official and legal 
guidance to help us."

Because, the university _should_ have such guidelines.  The thing is: 
When someone is sued, it is quite usual to name everyone possible in the 
suit, but especially, the parties with deep pockets.  The university 
probably has deeper pockets as a business/organization, than you do as 
an individual. So if you're an employee, both you and they are likely to 
be sued if someone objects to any copyrights of theirs that you violate. 
  Thus the university has a strong vested interest in helping you do the 
right thing.

Let us suppose, for the sake of argument, that you are not a university 
employee, but someone giving workshops for an organization like the SCA. 
   I am here going by what I know of California law, which may differ in 
other states.  Under California law, an employer does not have the same 
responsibilities for an independent contractor that they do for an 
employee. And if someone is named in a suit, and they are a peripheral 
party, they do not necessarily have to stay in it; their lawyers devise 
arguments as to why they should be allowed to withdraw, placing the 
entire burden of the suit on the other party(ies) named.  In other 
words, in California at least, an employer sued along with an 
independent contractor can cut themselves loose from the suit, placing 
the entire burden on the contractor. (After some argument on the part of 
the employer's lawyers in the many letters, hearings, etc. that occur 
before the suit actually comes to trial, which can easily take about a 
year.) If an employer or organization who is faced with spending a lot 
of time and money defending themselves for a violation of law committed 
by an independent contractor of his or own free will, can get out of the 
situation by placing the entire legal burden on the contractor, they are 
likely to do so.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, huh?
> 
> Sylrog
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>> Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
>> place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
>> reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
>> applies to every nonfiction work).
>>
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Currently two gothic fitted dresses. One long sleeved underdress and a short sleeved overdress which is awaiting tippets.  :) 

Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:  I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions. Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

Fran

Cin wrote:

> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Status: RO

Cin wrote:

> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

There's no room in my sewing room for such a thing.... but projects in 
process include:

* "goth-y" gypsy skirt for a client

I ran out of black cotton for this and need to go shopping this weekend. 
Fortunately Joann's is having a 50% coupon sale, so I will just buy a 
whole bolt.

* early 16th century Italian market woman dress for me

I got it cut and assembled, and am sewing on 1" wide silk trim strips as 
my arthritis permits the hand sewing. I might actually finish before the 
end of renfest.


* early 18th century men's 'pirate' coat for my husband

The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick 
small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use. 
It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.



Dawn

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos
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Status: RO

No library determines US copyright law.  What you are describing is 
merely the policy of your particular library.

Fran


> I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section
> of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
> University of Derby

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From: "Kathy Stormberg" <kstormy@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is wearing wool for winter
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Status: RO

My dressmaker's dummy is graced with a navy blue wool dress with a round red 
neckline and (future) red cuffs, seams in progress of finishing with dark 
green wool herringbone stitch on outside.  It is a semi-fitted gored tunic 
type dress.  Future embroidery in Medici wool for collar, cuffs and hemline.

Original styling of dress loosely based on dresses in Codex Manesse, 
embroidery to be German influenced but I'm not trying for period perfect.

According to the proprietor of the store where I buy Medici wool, it has 
been discontinued by the manufacturer (DMC).  This is a shame as it is much 
finer than anything else I have seen in wool.  Anyone know of a good 
substitution for the day when I use up all my stash?

-Kathy


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:15 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

On Oct 4, 2007, at 12:02 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
>> Fair use, people. Fair use.
>> <http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test>
>> The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain  
>> English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty  
>> in his system.
>> Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed)  
>> view, you can check out the Stanford Copyright & Fair Use Center  
>> <http://fairuse.stanford.edu/>. They've got their own explanation  
>> of the Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:
>> <http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/ 
>> chapter9/9-b.html>
>
>
> The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such  
> as "I'm not making any money from it" or "I work for an educational  
> institution" and assume that everything they want to do with  
> material they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety  
> of criteria they must meet.  Also, even, some people wave around  
> the term "fair use," as if to say, "Well it exists, so whatever I'm  
> doing must be fair use."  Not so.

And yet you argue against generalizations with more generalizations.

Sylvia was describing (although I look to her to verify this) copying  
individual photographs from sources of historical fashion for class  
presentation and/or course packs. At first glance, that qualifies as  
fair use.

Let's run through the tests (I'll use the UT version, it's easier to  
understand) to confirm:
FACTOR 1: What is the character of the use?
It's educational, a high-ranking use under this test. It may also be  
non-profit (another high-ranking use), but I don't know anything  
about the institution or organization for which she's teaching this  
class.

FACTOR 2: What is the nature of the work to be used?
It's probably "fact" (the material in the images isn't likely to be  
original to the copyright holder on the work and may, itself, be in  
the public domain even if the photograph itself isn't) and it's  
published. High-ranking classifications under this test

FACTOR 3: How much of the work will you use?
A small amount, if you're qualifying the book as the work and not the  
photo (which is the norm). Since #1 and #2 already point towards fair  
use, even if it was claimed that the photo was the work, it may be  
justifiable as fair use.

FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it  
have on the market for the original or for permissions?
"After evaluation of the first three factors, the proposed use is  
tipping towards fair use"

So it looks like Sylvia is in the clear at a basic level.

andy
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Status: RO

Mine's nekkid....*gasp*
I'm working on a doublet for my husband but I can't put in on my ladies =
form....the girly bits get in the way.=20


What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com=20




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff
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Status: RO

My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween 
cape for my husband.
We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the house.
Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some 
scary movies.
Maybe some "blood" smears on them.
In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles 
and a morgue sign.
One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape 
in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen 
floor like at a crime seen....
Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them....

I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is wearing wool for winter
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Status: RO

My dummy is currently naked, because the pink and black flamenco dress is 
finally done and delivered to the customer.  It's a gorgeous dress, with a 
black taffeta bodice embroidered with shaded pink flowering vines, and the 
ruffled sleeves and skirt ruffles done in alternating light and dark pink. 
I'm supposed to get pictures soon.

Next on the list is either an early 17th cen. French gown, or an early Tudor 
gown, depending on which customer gets me the fabric first.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

I second this,
Its so sad we have to have that disgussion so manny times!
My dummie is empty, but soon its going to wear a polonaise jacket wich i 
plan to embroider.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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=20

________________________________



The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick
small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use.
It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.



Dawn
=20
=20
Duh, I never thought of doing that.=20
=20
Thanks,
Patty
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Hello Fran,=20
=20
Is there something else going on in your life right now? I don't recall =
your being so caustic before.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

Fran

Cin wrote:

> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
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> 
> And yet you argue against generalizations with more generalizations.

OK.  Here I am with Richard Stim's _Getting Permission:  How to License 
& Clear Copyrighted Materials Online & Off," which I strongly recommend, 
along with Stephem Fishman's _The Copyright Handbook."  And dutifully 
paraphrasing what they say in a way that does not violate their copyrights.

In an earlier message, I mentioned guidelines for educational use, in 
addition to the use being merely made by an instructor within an 
educational institution.  There is a specific set of educational fair 
use guidelines recognized by the US Copyright Office and in the courts 
as minimum standards. They are laid out in full in Circular 29, and 
according to Stim, are provided on the US Copyright Office website. I 
touched on them briefly earlier.  Some points particularly relevant to 
this discussion:

* The guidelines do apply to presentation of research findings at 
noncommercial educational workshops, lectures, etc., as well as within 
universities and other nonprofit, formal educational institutions. 
(However, I'd say that not all teaching is presentation of "research 
findings" or anything at all new.)

* The general idea seems to be to limit copying to only certain rather 
small quantities of a work, and to a certain rather small quantity of 
copying for the class as a whole.

*  They include guidelines for the amount of text used, and let's skip 
that for this discussion; please refer to Stim's book or to Circular 29. 
  For illustrations, the guidelines are "One chart, graph, diagram, 
drawing, cartoon, or picture per book or per periodical issue."   Also, 
"ony nine instances of such copying for one course during one school 
term are permitted." Also, the use has to be spontaneous; the instructor 
must have thought of it too late to ask for permission. The guidelines 
do not permit the copying of material from textbooks, workbooks, etc. 
created for educational use, as this would usurp the profits of 
educational publishers.

*  The bottom line is that the copying is not to be a substitute for 
having the students purchase the work(s).

Because digitizing materials is a fairly new technology, there are 
several sets of PROPOSED guidelines for using digitized materials for 
educational purposes, none of which have the force of law nor even, as 
far as I can tell, well-established use in court cases. But, that 
doesn't mean that no one will sue anyone over use of digitized works.

> FACTOR 3: How much of the work will you use?
> A small amount, if you're qualifying the book as the work and not the  
> photo (which is the norm). Since #1 and #2 already point towards fair  
> use, even if it was claimed that the photo was the work, it may be  
> justifiable as fair use.

As far as copyright law goes, a book is not one huge block. Different 
elements have different copyrights. Especially, it is less defensible to 
copy and use something that is complete in itself:  One pattern, one 
poem, the set of instructions for one project.

As for pictures, not only are they usually complete in themselves, bear 
in mind that under US law (I understand that the laws of some foreign 
countries are different, but do not know the details for each country) 
photographs of paintings and other works of art have their own 
copyrights, indepedent of the copyright status of the work of art 
itself. Suppose a Renaissance painting is in an American museum, and the 
museum photographs it. They can, and often do, charge for the use of 
that photo.  If a different photographer photographs it someday, that 
photo has its own, different copyright.

Museums often charge for use of such photos in books, etc. It's one way 
they get some revenue.  In a book with photos of paintings from many 
museums, the author or publisher (who does the work and pays for the 
permissions depends on the publishing contract for that book) may have 
gone to a great deal of effort and paid a fair amount of money to get 
permission for each and every photo to be used in that book. That 
permission does not automatically extend to everyone else who wants to 
use the photo.

If the author, or an ilustrator hired by the author or publisher, has 
redrawn details of things like garment parts in the original works of 
art, for greater clarity, than those drawings have their own, modern 
copyrights.

> 
> FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it  
> have on the market for the original or for permissions?

It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the copyright 
owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than the copyright 
violator, and the copyright owner can present that evidence in court.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Status: RO

NO, not necessarily. It is NOT legal to make any use of material you 
want just because you work for an educational institution. You have to 
meet a group of fair use factors, not just one of them. See my previous 
message, mentioning the factors of quantity of material used from one 
work or by one author, spontaneity (not having time for materials), not 
being a substitute for buying the works, and so on.

Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, huh?
> 
> Sylrog
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>> Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
>> place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
>> reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
>> applies to every nonfiction work).
>>
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

I usually buy the stuff from the chemist shop. It is in plates and very nice 
to work with.
Right now i am going to use it for the stuffing of a muff. I make a roll 
from it, from 3-4 layers of the plates, graduating in size.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff
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Oooh - don't forget the "pass the scary objects" game. Blindfolded - =
pass spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably lurid =
descriptions.=20
=20
BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding jackets =
(on hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for an age, =
either).
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
cape for my husband.
We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the =
house.
Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some
scary movies.
Maybe some "blood" smears on them.
In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
and a morgue sign.
One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen
floor like at a crime seen....
Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them....

I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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Status: RO



Sharon Collier wrote:

> What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a "new"
> publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just part of
> the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for them to use on
> their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one individually. 


This depends on whether the new publication is a reprint or not.

A reprint is material that is published exactly as is. No editing. No 
redrawing of illustrations. No selection and organization of materials 
for an anthology; or a selection and organization that is so obvious as 
to require no originality.

For example, every single poem by Robert Burns ever published, reprinted 
exactly as first published in the exact order of first publication, is a 
reprint.  If the poems are chosen by arbitrary criteria such as "best 
poems," and/or organized by arbitrary criteria such as "nature poems," 
"love poems," "Scottish poems," etc., then this is a new anthology 
covered by modern copyright, and copying significant portions of it is a 
copyright violation.

All new material added is covered by modern copyright, such as an 
introduction, footnotes, glossary, index, and/or appendices; and even, 
often, the page design and layout.  All modern translations from foreign 
languages are covered by copyright, just as if they had originally been 
written today in English.

If you have an exact reprint of a 16th-century blackwork manual (or the 
16th-century blackwork manual itself), yes, you can freely copy the 
images. If you are using someone else's redrawings or rechartings of the 
16th-century manual, you are violating their copyright, whether the 
students are given the material to trace or whether you photocopy it for 
them. Legally, they should be told to buy the textbook.

It is also legal for you to take the original 16th-century manual or an 
EXACT reprint (no editing, recharting, etc.), redraw/rechart the images 
yourself, and hand that work out to your students.  But you have to go 
back to the original.  You can't ride on someone else's previous work.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Status: RO

But you'll have a very hard time getting ANY published material copied at K=
inko's. Ten years or so ago they were the subject of a big copyright-violat=
ion suit because they were helping/encouraging faculty to "make their own t=
extbooks" with photocopied materials, and neither the faculty nor Kinko's p=
ursued the necessary permissions. Since then, Kinko's has been DEFINITELY "=
once burned, twice shy" with copying. Some years ago I wanted to make littl=
e thank-you cards for my TWELFTH NIGHT cast, and since we had danced a lavo=
lta as our curtain call I wanted to put "Queen Elizabeth I Dancing with Rob=
ert Dudley, Earl of Leicester" on the front of the card. For that I needed =
(lacking a color scanner and a color printer at home) a color photocopy of =
the painting....and the counterperson at Kinko's WOULD NOT PERMIT me to mak=
e a tiny copy for this innocuous purpose. Even UNpublished material: My tru=
elove had to photocopy the rough draft of a repair manual he was writing, t=
o ship it to the company he was writing it for--and that Kinko's counterper=
son, seeing technical drawings bearing the company's name, refused to copy =
it for him without a written release from the company.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
p.s. Office Max obliged both times....

-----Original Message-----
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
>Sent: Oct 4, 2007 2:43 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos
>
>
>>From Kate:
>
>> Robin wrote:
>
>>> Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that
>>> happens every day in every university library and Kinko's.
>>
>> and Fran replied
>>
>>> Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every
>>> day somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?
>
>Kate adds:
....
>Kinko's, by the way, is an American chain of copy centers. That is, they w=
ere plain-old copy centers when they started sprouting up on college campus=
es a couple of decades ago. Now they also offer Fedex shipping, office supp=
lies, and a bewildering array of printing/fax/computer services. They're op=
en 24 hours and I have spent many a late night there. I once assembled an a=
nniversary-gift scrapbook there at 3am using their nice selection of acid-f=
ree decorative papers and their good paper cutter. I figure the only thing =
they're missing now is a coffee bar.
>
>--Robin
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Boo!=C2=A0Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live One=
Care!
>http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=3Dwl_hotm=
ailnews_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Since you ask, what is going on in my life is that I'm finishing up the 
biggest and in many ways, the hardest book project I've ever done.  I 
spend all day every day staring at a computer monitor.  No juicy gossip 
or room for speculation there, I'm afraid.

Nor am I being especially caustic.  I've never made any secret of the 
fact that I'm not people-oriented, and I think it would be ridiculous to 
guide my life by what people think of me. I'm much more interested in 
ideas.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Hello Fran, 
>  
> Is there something else going on in your life right now? 


  don't recall your being so caustic before.
>  
> Patty
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?
> 
> Fran
> 
> Cin wrote:
> 
> 
>>I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
>>chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
>>Please?
>>What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
>>--cin
>>Cynthia Barnes
>>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care 
less if people think I'm nicey-nice.

Fran


Beteena Paradise wrote:

> I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in a manner which was a bit less off-putting.
>   
>
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Status: RO

 > Yes, exactly. In my post, I was attempting to draw a contrast between 
 > this sort of legal fair-use copying of small bits -- routine and > 
unremarkable -- vs. the question of copying whole books, as discussed > 
in the preceding paragraph of my post. It appears I didn't draw the 
distinction clearly enough to be understood by all, and I appreciate you 
and Andrew making my point clearer.

Robin, I’m glad you have cleared up this point.  Your message implied 
that you thought it was OK to copy a whole book as long as you thought 
it was "rare enough."  But please, there is no reason why you can't 
address emails meant for my eyes directly to me in the future.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Congratulations on being close to the end of your project and stretching =
yourself to do it (only an assumption, based on your saying it was your =
hardest project).=20
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Since you ask, what is going on in my life is that I'm finishing up the
biggest and in many ways, the hardest book project I've ever done.  I
spend all day every day staring at a computer monitor.  No juicy gossip
or room for speculation there, I'm afraid.

Nor am I being especially caustic.  I've never made any secret of the
fact that I'm not people-oriented, and I think it would be ridiculous to
guide my life by what people think of me. I'm much more interested in
ideas.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com <http://www.lavoltapress.com/>=20




Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Hello Fran,
>=20
> Is there something else going on in your life right now?


  don't recall your being so caustic before.
>=20
> Patty
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
>
>
>
> Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?
>
> Fran
>
> Cin wrote:
>
>
>>I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
>>chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
>>Please?
>>What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
>>--cin
>>Cynthia Barnes
>>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>
> =
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Needing to make a new one...in the shape of my GFD.

hehehehe

Starr



> Currently two gothic fitted dresses. One long sleeved underdress and a 
> short sleeved overdress which is awaiting tippets.  :)
>
> Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:  I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & 
> copyrights discussions. Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Status: RO



Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Congratulations on being close to the end of your project

The "end" is relative, especially as a book printer will have it for at 
least two months after I finish with it.  I'll announce it on h-costume 
when it is available for sale.


  and stretching yourself to do it (only an assumption,

based on your saying it was your hardest project).

I don't enjoy doing things that aren't hard, or where I'm not learning 
anything.

Best,

Fran
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Status: RO

On Oct 4, 2007, at 1:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
>> FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would  
>> it  have on the market for the original or for permissions?
>
> It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the  
> copyright owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than  
> the copyright violator, and the copyright owner can present that  
> evidence in court.

I stated at the beginning that I was using the UT test as an example.  
Go back and read <http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/ 
copypol2.htm#test>.

Then come back with answers again, or with citations explaining how  
the analysis of their general counsel (who is trying to give their  
faculty as much freedom as possible while avoiding litigation) is  
incorrect.

andy


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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Rickard, Patty wrote:

> The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick
> small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use.
> It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.
> 
>  
> Duh, I never thought of doing that. 
>  

The trick is in recognizing what can be picked off. In this case, the 
flowers are sewn on through their centers with machine stitching, onto a 
machine stitched X on the fabric. So they come off rather easily with a 
seam ripper and some patience.

Another piece of delicious purple linen I bought has the flowers glued 
on with hot glue. They come off easily with a steam iron, but leave glue 
blobs behind. I bought it anyway and made a cute, modern style cropped 
jacket, with butterfly brocade to go with the flowers.

There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so many 
motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth bothering with.



Dawn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Well I don't own one, yet...but my sewing table has a pair of stays 
almost done, Cloth piled up to make 17th/18th cent skirts and the 
muslin staring at me to do the mock ups for a set of 17th men's 
breeches/pants/whatever <G>
Once the stay's are done it's a toss up as to what gets cut out next...
Ta
Carol--still dithering over which dressmaker's dummy to get...being a 
weird, large inbetween shape, and the duct tape one has melted...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff
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Status: RO

Patty,

What type of riding jackets?  Pictures, please?

I trail ride my Paso Fino, Oscar.  We also do some sidesaddle riding.=20
That's a reason I am on this list - to learn about correct riding=20
clothing for various Time Periods.

Susan (NJ)

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:33 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Oooh - don't forget the "pass the scary objects" game. Blindfolded -=20
> pass spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably=20
> lurid descriptions.
>
> BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding=20
> jackets (on hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for=20
> an age, either).
>
> Patty
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
> Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff
>
>
>
> My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
> cape for my husband.
> We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
> He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
> I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the=20
> house.
> Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some
> scary movies.
> Maybe some "blood" smears on them.
> In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
> and a morgue sign.
> One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
> in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen
> floor like at a crime seen....
> Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them....
>
> I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: "repurposed" fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy
	wearing?
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 14:46:44 -0700
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On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
> There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so  
> many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth  
> bothering with.

If it's not bulky embellishment, it may still be good as lining or  
interlining. I've got some ugly olive-drab linen with an uglier umber- 
ish basketweave embroidery pattern on it. Got it dirt cheap. I've got  
enough to line quite a few garments...

andy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: what's on the Dressmaker's Dummy?
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Status: RO

At 2:31 PM -0600 10/4/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick
>small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use.
>It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.
Here here--it took me a month of TV watching to get the 2 bolts 
'cleand' that I scored for $1!!!!!!! a yard on the biig clearance a 
bit ago...but the linen is very nice, esp at the price...Floor looked 
silly with all the flowers piling up as each secession went on. I 
still find one that drifted away from the herd...
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 15:06:48 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

>From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
>Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.

I dont think I can top that.

Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded
taffeta, the collar & cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs
sleeves, closures & a hem.
Adonis is, all Adonises should be, nekkid as a jaybird with a womans
1890s chip straw hat embellished with ostrich feathers, orange taffeta
ribbon & roses.

The heads:
Anne, Catherine & Charles are wearing:
* Clara Eugenia's hat from the de Llano portrait.
* A kiss me quick bonnet c1840s trimmed with parrot feathers.
* A small butterfly hennin of gold silk shot with brass threads (which
one might call cloth of brass).  The brass wires to support the veil
are too short & flimsy. This hat needs a bit of reworking.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 18:16:57 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

1880s skirt with a blouse that I am hoping to fit into, soon!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 6:06 PM, Cin wrote:

>> From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
>> Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.
>
> I dont think I can top that.
>
> Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded
> taffeta, the collar & cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs
> sleeves, closures & a hem.
> Adonis is, all Adonises should be, nekkid as a jaybird with a womans
> 1890s chip straw hat embellished with ostrich feathers, orange taffeta
> ribbon & roses.
>
> The heads:
> Anne, Catherine & Charles are wearing:
> * Clara Eugenia's hat from the de Llano portrait.
> * A kiss me quick bonnet c1840s trimmed with parrot feathers.
> * A small butterfly hennin of gold silk shot with brass threads (which
> one might call cloth of brass).  The brass wires to support the veil
> are too short & flimsy. This hat needs a bit of reworking.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:52 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> I'm sorry, but the UT test is not the only available information on  
> copyright.  I am not obligated to consider it so.  Why do you not  
> instead read circular 29, or Richard Stim's _Getting Permission_?

Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was the  
foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out by not  
arguing on the points and positions.

And I can't read US Copyright Office Circular 29. Go to <http:// 
www.copyright.gov/circs/> and you'll see it doesn't exist (I'm  
assuming this is an "anymore" situation, and it's been withdrawn).  
There is factsheet 102 <http://www.copyright.gov/fls/fl102.html> that  
provides an incredibly bare-bones analysis of Fair Use and references  
Section 107 of the Copyright act <http://www.copyright.gov/ 
title17/92chap1.html#107> (sections 107-118 limit a copyright  
holder's rights).

andy


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 15:39:16 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Licensed art images for educational institutions...
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Status: RO

If you're working for for a school or university that is a  
subscriber, check out ARTstor.
<http://www.artstor.org/>

Alas, my employer isn't a participant.

andy
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From: Paula Praxis <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO


I was kinda feeling the same but I realize that valid points were made all =
around.
=20
Pricilla is wearing a mock-up of a runway - fashionn show - gown for "Aida"=
. Penny is wearing the beginning stages of 'Amneris's wedding gown and poor=
 Petula is once again in a man's costume - some sort of slave atire.
I love this thread and am always inspired and amazed at the varity of thing=
s  you all are making.
Paula> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:14:48 -0700> From: cinbarnes@gmail.com> To:=
 h-costume@indra.com> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy=
 wearing?> > I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussion=
s. Any> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?> Please?> Wh=
at's your dressmakers dummy wearing?> --cin> Cynthia Barnes> CinBarnes@gmai=
l.com> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing l=
ist> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-cos=
tume
_________________________________________________________________
Boo!=A0Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare=
!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=3Dwl_hotma=
ilnews=
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s 
home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages 
from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen 
different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that 
are superior to any I have read elsewhere.

The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as 
the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit 
for you.

It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old 
pieces and really is a very clever thing.

My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the 
world in 1946:

"Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to 
get out of this uniform and into my good old..."

-C.


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Status: RO


> 
> Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was the  
> foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out by not  
> arguing on the points and positions.

Nope.  It's quite as reasonable for me to run you around and waste your 
time--or rather, act as an e-list troll--and insist that unless you 
write little essays on the books that I assign YOU to read that you are 
taking the "easy way out," as for you to try that game on me.  I've been 
a publishing professional, I've dealt with copyright professionally for 
over 23 years, and in my brother, I have a lawyer to consult close at 
hand.  I don't need to "prove myself" to you.

So, my first assignment for YOU is for YOU to go buy Richard Stim's 
_Getting Permissions:  How to License & Clear Copyrighted Materials 
Online & Off._  It's readily available on the Nolo Press website, on 
Amazon.com, and probably in libraries.  It contains an extensive 
discussion of this issue.  I'm also assigning you to read Stephen 
Fishman's _The Copyright Handbook_ and his _The Public Domain:  How to 
Find & Use Copyright-Free Writings, Music, Art & More_, available from 
the same sources. I need a a 5 to- 10 page, double-spaced essay on fair 
use of materials in nonprofit educational settings, based on these three 
works, which I expect you to have read thoroughly and objectively. It's 
due on Sunday.

Unless you prove yourself to me in this fashion, you're taking the "easy 
way out."  After all, I'm setting the rules of the game.

Enjoy!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Status: RO

Thank you!

Hmmm... I just finished up my part in a WW1 dress for a friend. She took
it home this afternoon to hem and put the buttons on, to be ready to
wear this weekend. 

Next up is a couple of sets of Viking pants and tunics. After that I
need to finally get around to doing a simple Colonial set for me. That
project has been put on hold for too many years- and I'm missing out on
events because I don't have proper kit. Grr. 

And I just started weaving lessons. That'll keep me busy for a while! 

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Cin
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For F---'s sake, can't you take this to email? Or just let it go already? This is really getting ridiculous. And please do not tell me to create a filter because, if I am not mistaken, the email group is called "Historic Costume" not "My copyright book is bigger than your copyright book" or "I need to express my opinion until the beaten horse is not only dead but pulverized until there are no discernable lumps left except for those on the foreheads of everyone else on this list from banging their friggin heads against the desk."
   
  
Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
    
> 
> <stuff said by Andy and quoted by Fran>

  <Fran's opinion>

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Status: RO

If you want the discussion to end, don't post on it.

Fran

Beteena Paradise wrote:

> For F---'s sake, can't you take this to email? Or just let it go already? This is really getting ridiculous. And please do not tell me to create a filter because, if I am not mistaken, the email group is called "Historic Costume" not "My copyright book is bigger than your copyright book" or "I need to express my opinion until the beaten horse is not only dead but pulverized until there are no discernable lumps left except for those on the foreheads of everyone else on this list from banging their friggin heads against the desk."
>    
>   
> Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>     
> 
>><stuff said by Andy and quoted by Fran>
> 
> 
>   <Fran's opinion>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>> Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was  
>> the  foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out  
>> by not  arguing on the points and positions.
>
> Nope.  It's quite as reasonable for me to run you around and waste  
> your time--or rather, act as an e-list troll--and insist that  
> unless you write little essays on the books that I assign YOU to  
> read that you are taking the "easy way out," as for you to try that  
> game on me.  I've been a publishing professional, I've dealt with  
> copyright professionally for over 23 years, and in my brother, I  
> have a lawyer to consult close at hand.  I don't need to "prove  
> myself" to you.


I work for a university. We participated in the CSU-SUNY-CUNY Work  
Group on Ownership, Legal Rights of Use
and Fair Use. I listen to our general counsel, who continues to  
update the work group's "Fair Use
of Copyrighted Works: A Crucial Element in Educating America." I  
chose the UT website because it provides a more detailed explanation  
of the fair use test, but it's exactly the same fair use test that  
our general counsel provides to faculty
<http://www.calstate.edu/GC/Docs/Fair_Use.doc>.

andy
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Status: RO

Regardless, someone who plays a game where they insist _they_ are 
setting all the rules for a public discussion, and offers no 
contribution except references to a website they did not write, and then 
insists that a specific person who does not write essays on the subject 
at their command using only the reference they happened to have pointed to:

Is a troll.

Perhaps some other list member would like to oblige you:  After all, 
this is not a private discussion.  I have better things to do.

Fran


> 
> I work for a university. We participated in the CSU-SUNY-CUNY Work  
> Group on Ownership, Legal Rights of Use
> and Fair Use. I listen to our general counsel, who continues to  update 
> the work group's "Fair Use
> of Copyrighted Works: A Crucial Element in Educating America." I  chose 
> the UT website because it provides a more detailed explanation  of the 
> fair use test, but it's exactly the same fair use test that  our general 
> counsel provides to faculty
> <http://www.calstate.edu/GC/Docs/Fair_Use.doc>.
> 
> andy

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Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:43:15 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool
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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> I usually buy the stuff from the chemist shop. It is in plates and 
> very nice to work with.
> Right now i am going to use it for the stuffing of a muff. I make a 
> roll from it, from 3-4 layers of the plates, graduating in size.
>
I favour cotton quilt batting for the same sort of thing.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Hi Susan,
=20
Just modern, I'm afraid. I lost my dressage partner last December (33 =
yr.old Trakehner - actually, he'd been a lawn ornament for a while), so =
my jackets were just lower level show jackets. I did get a sidesaddle =
habit & was looking for a sidesaddle for a while, but he and I seemed to =
trade off being sound).
=20
NE Ohio seems to be a Paso Fino hotbed, so I have several friends with =
Pasos - lovely horses. How do you like riding aside?
=20
Patty
=20
=20

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 5:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



Patty,

What type of riding jackets?  Pictures, please?

I trail ride my Paso Fino, Oscar.  We also do some sidesaddle riding.
That's a reason I am on this list - to learn about correct riding
clothing for various Time Periods.

Susan (NJ)

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:33 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Oooh - don't forget the "pass the scary objects" game. Blindfolded -
> pass spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably
> lurid descriptions.
>
> BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding
> jackets (on hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for
> an age, either).
>
> Patty
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
> Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff
>
>
>
> My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
> cape for my husband.
> We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
> He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
> I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the
> house.
> Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in =
some
> scary movies.
> Maybe some "blood" smears on them.
> In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
> and a morgue sign.
> One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
> in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the =
kitchen
> floor like at a crime seen....
> Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them....
>
> I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

I think this list needs a moderator to keep things from getting out of 
hand as they are now.  Insults should be posted privately, I think.  
Let's all try to be as polite as we would be in person--assuming we 
are! ;-)

Sylrog

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Status: RO

I'm perfectly willing to drop the subject if everyone else is.  In this 
case, "troll" is not an insult, but I think a very accurate description. 
As I've already said, I'm not falling for it.

So, instead of the satisfaction of getting me punished by a moderator 
when I've already dropped a discussion someone is continuing, will you 
settle for having me just drop it?

Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I think this list needs a moderator to keep things from getting out of 
> hand as they are now.  Insults should be posted privately, I think.  
> Let's all try to be as polite as we would be in person--assuming we are! 
> ;-)
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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Status: RO

I'm sorry, but the UT test is not the only available information on 
copyright.  I am not obligated to consider it so.  Why do you not 
instead read circular 29, or Richard Stim's _Getting Permission_?

Fran

Andrew T Trembley wrote:

> On Oct 4, 2007, at 1:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>>
>>> FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would  it  
>>> have on the market for the original or for permissions?
>>
>>
>> It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the  copyright 
>> owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than  the 
>> copyright violator, and the copyright owner can present that  evidence 
>> in court.
> 
> 
> I stated at the beginning that I was using the UT test as an example.  
> Go back and read <http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/ 
> copypol2.htm#test>.
> 
> Then come back with answers again, or with citations explaining how  the 
> analysis of their general counsel (who is trying to give their  faculty 
> as much freedom as possible while avoiding litigation) is  incorrect.
> 
> andy
> 
> 
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> 
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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:

> As for pictures, not only are they usually complete in themselves, bear 
> in mind that under US law (I understand that the laws of some foreign 
> countries are different, but do not know the details for each country) 
> photographs of paintings and other works of art have their own 
> copyrights, indepedent of the copyright status of the work of art 
> itself. Suppose a Renaissance painting is in an American museum, and the 
> museum photographs it. They can, and often do, charge for the use of 
> that photo.  If a different photographer photographs it someday, that 
> photo has its own, different copyright.

Not as black and white as all that anymore -- see Bridgeman v. Corel, as 
I mentioned yesterday. It is possible that such exact photographs of 
public domain works are no longer copyrightable in the US unless there 
is some additional creative content. See 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeman_Art_Library_v._Corel_Corp. for a 
relatively accessible explanation of this. But as it mentions, "it has 
yet to be cited by any appellate-level circuit court"; it's not 
*officially* the law of the land yet.

This does mean, however, if you copy an exact photograph of a 
Renaissance painting for your SCA Renaissance costuming class, you are 
probably going to be OK -- in the US. Probably. But not certainly. 
Anything can happen, and at some point, this might be tested at the 
Supreme Court level, and it could be you who gets sued in the process. 
But Bridgeman v. Corel at least means (to me, anyway) that you can use 
those types of images in the US with a clear conscience, as the original 
works are public domain, and the photographs themselves are probably not 
copyrightable based on Bridgeman v Corel.

(The sad thing is, even if you are in the right, you can still get sued, 
and it can still cost you a lot of money. But that is up to each of us 
to decide whether to take that risk, I guess.)

W
(For what it's worth, I think this decision is correct; once works are 
in the public domain, an owner of the physical work should not be able 
to de facto "re-copyright" them, as many museums have essentially 
attempted to do. I know they get income from it, but "hijacking the 
public domain" is unethical, and in a way contrary to the general 
mission of most museums. But that is just my opinion.)


*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear/
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  | 23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"----*
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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

 A few pins.


Now my other dummy, my full length these are my curves (OMGargh!)
dummy is wearing a non historical item that is still in the process of
being made. And no I can't say what that is. Suffice to say she is
practically nekkid at this point because I really am at the very
beginning stages!
She does though have a full length body suit stitched in place so she
can have more defined butt cheeks and breasts which will help in
drafting trousers and other body suits later.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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Status: RO


I took Fran's advice earlier to delete the "costume photos" subject lines r=
ather than slog through it all, but this came thru as I was reading 'what's=
 on your dress dummy'.
For a minute I wondered what I was missing that could have led to the below=
 quote, but then I realized that the god of email was just letting me have =
a laugh without any of the pain.
=20
Unfortunately, my dress dummy is wearing a bag of plastic bags while my dau=
ghter cleans her room (which is also my sewing room) and I, alas, am reduce=
d to sewing fold-em-up essential oil holders for my store.  Boring, assembl=
y line production, but at least the fabrics are pretty...
=20
Laurie
=20
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:48:56 -0700> From: fran@lavoltapress.com>  In th=
is > case, "troll" is not an insult, but I think a very accurate descriptio=
n. >=20
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop =
by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_Oc=
tWLtagline=
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 21:54:37 -0400
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Status: RO

On Thursday 04 October 2007, Cin wrote:
> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

My purely notional dummy is wearing nothing at the moment, but will soon sport 
yet another early-period type shift--this one with a speculative collar, 
based purely on a reconstruction drawing in a book on early Lithuanian 
costume.

After that, I plan to attempt a reconstruction of the Viking era costume based 
on this find:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 18:55:36 -0700
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Status: RO

The students are 9-11 yrs. old and we only have 6 45 min. classes. I don't
think I can ask them to buy a book for that.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 11:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos



Sharon Collier wrote:

> What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a
"new"
> publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just 
> part of the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for 
> them to use on their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one
individually.


This depends on whether the new publication is a reprint or not.

A reprint is material that is published exactly as is. No editing. No
redrawing of illustrations. No selection and organization of materials for
an anthology; or a selection and organization that is so obvious as to
require no originality.

For example, every single poem by Robert Burns ever published, reprinted
exactly as first published in the exact order of first publication, is a
reprint.  If the poems are chosen by arbitrary criteria such as "best
poems," and/or organized by arbitrary criteria such as "nature poems," 
"love poems," "Scottish poems," etc., then this is a new anthology covered
by modern copyright, and copying significant portions of it is a copyright
violation.

All new material added is covered by modern copyright, such as an
introduction, footnotes, glossary, index, and/or appendices; and even,
often, the page design and layout.  All modern translations from foreign
languages are covered by copyright, just as if they had originally been
written today in English.

If you have an exact reprint of a 16th-century blackwork manual (or the
16th-century blackwork manual itself), yes, you can freely copy the images.
If you are using someone else's redrawings or rechartings of the
16th-century manual, you are violating their copyright, whether the students
are given the material to trace or whether you photocopy it for them.
Legally, they should be told to buy the textbook.

It is also legal for you to take the original 16th-century manual or an
EXACT reprint (no editing, recharting, etc.), redraw/rechart the images
yourself, and hand that work out to your students.  But you have to go back
to the original.  You can't ride on someone else's previous work.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

On Thursday 04 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> The students are 9-11 yrs. old and we only have 6 45 min. classes. I don't
> think I can ask them to buy a book for that.

Doesn't Dover have any books of public-domain clip art that would serve the 
purpose?

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

I'd love to see pics. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:07 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

>From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> Heh ... Mardi 
>Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.

I dont think I can top that.

Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded taffeta, the
collar & cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs sleeves, closures &
a hem.
Adonis is, all Adonises should be, nekkid as a jaybird with a womans 1890s
chip straw hat embellished with ostrich feathers, orange taffeta ribbon &
roses.

The heads:
Anne, Catherine & Charles are wearing:
* Clara Eugenia's hat from the de Llano portrait.
* A kiss me quick bonnet c1840s trimmed with parrot feathers.
* A small butterfly hennin of gold silk shot with brass threads (which one
might call cloth of brass).  The brass wires to support the veil are too
short & flimsy. This hat needs a bit of reworking.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: RE: "repurposed" fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers
	dummywearing?
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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What great ideas - where was my brain? I've passed up lots of that =
stuff.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 5:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: "repurposed" fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers =
dummywearing?



On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
> There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so=20
> many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth=20
> bothering with.

If it's not bulky embellishment, it may still be good as lining or=20
interlining. I've got some ugly olive-drab linen with an uglier umber-
ish basketweave embroidery pattern on it. Got it dirt cheap. I've got=20
enough to line quite a few garments...

andy
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Status: RO

It's layered at the moment because I've got two projects in play:

1) a PVC version of a leather vest from the tv show "Firefly" that is
currently on hold until I find the right buckles and other notions to
complete it.

2) Over it is a white linen 16th c. shift which I am working on (along
with a shirt) as part of a base for a 16th century wardrobe suitable
for SCA events and the like.

Allison T.
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Status: RO

Thanks! I never thought of Dover. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos

On Thursday 04 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> The students are 9-11 yrs. old and we only have 6 45 min. classes. I 
> don't think I can ask them to buy a book for that.

Doesn't Dover have any books of public-domain clip art that would serve the
purpose?

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Status: RO


On Oct 4, 2007, at 12:09 PM, ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

> But you'll have a very hard time getting ANY published material  
> copied at Kinko's. Ten years or so ago they were the subject of a  
> big copyright-violation suit because they were helping/encouraging  
> faculty to "make their own textbooks" with photocopied materials,  
> and neither the faculty nor Kinko's pursued the necessary  
> permissions. Since then, Kinko's has been DEFINITELY "once burned,  
> twice shy" with copying. Some years ago I wanted to make little  
> thank-you cards for my TWELFTH NIGHT cast, and since we had danced  
> a lavolta as our curtain call I wanted to put "Queen Elizabeth I  
> Dancing with Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester" on the front of the  
> card. For that I needed (lacking a color scanner and a color  
> printer at home) a color photocopy of the painting....and the  
> counterperson at Kinko's WOULD NOT PERMIT me to make a tiny copy  
> for this innocuous purpose. Even UNpublished material: My truelove  
> had to photocopy the rough draft of a repair manual he was writing,  
> to ship it to the company he was writing it for--and that Kinko's  
> counterperson, seeing technical drawings bearing the company's  
> name, refused to copy it for him without a written release from the  
> company.

The conscientious counter person at Kinko's once tried to refuse me  
permission to make multiple copies of MY OWN WORK because it had a  
copyright notice on it.

I eventually convinced the manager that it was okay, but I was quite  
amused. :)

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: "repurposed" fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers
	dummywearing?
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:40:31 -0500
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Status: RO

For $2 a yd. 100% linen medium weight. White with black appliqued linen
flowers. Took the flowers off and now I have a solid white linen material. I
plan on attaching the flowers together to make a long vest, may line it with
another color or fancy crochet/needle work bettween the flowers.
For $1 a yd. 100% linen, white, medium weight with med.sized crabs
embroidered all over. Could not remove the crabs but the spacing of the
crabs allow the making of a Tudor style shift. Because you basically only
see the solid white neckline and not the rest of the shift. And the extra
material will be drawers. Though I am sure there will be giggles about me
having crabs or being crabby. :] Other embroidered pieces that I can not
remove the design, are planned for under garments that most likely won't be
seen.

De


-----Original Message-----
On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
> There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so
> many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth
> bothering with.


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Subject: Re: "repurposed" fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your
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Status: RO

And if they are, we all giggle about the wonderful design on them.

Hey, I saw a gown hand done 2 years ago at the Laurel's challenge with DUCKY 
cotton broadcloth lining. Was wonderful to pick up the hem and see that. Not 
to mention it was the talk of the challenge.

Starr


And the extra
> material will be drawers. Though I am sure there will be giggles about me
> having crabs or being crabby. :] Other embroidered pieces that I can not
> remove the design, are planned for under garments that most likely won't 
> be
> seen.
>
> De
>

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References: <d08.1d3aa834.34359ff8@aol.com>	<BAY131-W33487FF393B0056D3F131DAAA80@phx.gbl>	<3aa89d7f7790f7d09edad5a3aa333643@ntw.net>	<BAY131-W92761E1B25D0AAE394720AAA80@phx.gbl>	<4704769C.3000502@lavoltapress.com>	<BAY131-W87F22AF91F4198B2E2DB6AAA80@phx.gbl>	<470489D8.9060307@lavoltapress.com>	<47052475.9010308@bovil.com>	<470538B4.6090902@lavoltapress.com>	<5C5B89FA-64B0-4835-B7AB-01C1AF130208@bovil.com>	<47054D97.5090102@lavoltapress.com>	<632A0B79-4EAB-4C8E-9D7C-21E6FA44FAFC@bovil.com>	<4705608F.3070208@lavoltapress.com>	<F041CC60-8F18-4281-B21B-724F56BDA84B@bovil.com>
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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:
> So, my first assignment for YOU is for YOU to go buy Richard Stim's 
> _Getting Permissions:  How to License & Clear Copyrighted Materials 
> Online & Off._  It's readily available on the Nolo Press website, on 
> Amazon.com, and probably in libraries.  It contains an extensive 
> discussion of this issue.

Stim's work is the second reference I cited. He's the author of the 
"Copyright and Fair Use Overview" section at the Stanford's Copyright 
and Fair Use project. _Getting Permissions_ forms the core of that 
section. If you were checking citations instead of just tossing them 
around, you would have figured that out. I even cited him in a way that 
was easy for all the folks attempting to follow this discussion to follow.

<http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/index.html>

So yes, reading Stim is valuable. I did.

andy

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO

Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods.
   
  
Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
  Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care 
less if people think I'm nicey-nice.

Fran


Beteena Paradise wrote:

> I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in a manner which was a bit less off-putting.
> 
>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
References: <200710042032.l94KVYGN089758@net.indra.com>
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Status: RO

I agree that this discussion has gone on long enough, but...

>No library determines US copyright law.  What you are describing is=20
>merely the policy of your particular library.

>Fran

>> I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a =
section
> >of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.
>=20
>> Kate Bunting
>> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
>> University of Derby

Being in the UK, ours observes British copyright law! Sorry if I confused =
the issue.

Kate


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Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 21:39:29 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Reintroduction...yes, I'm back! (long)
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Status: RO

Hello all, dear, dear people on this list!

I don't know if _anyone_ will remember me. I joined h-costume in 1996
and have actually been on it ever since. When Eric Praetzel needed the
1997 archives for his archive page at
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/, I supplied them... so that's me,
just for reference.

I lived in Berlin, Germany at the time, and it's now over 5 years ago
that I announced that I was going to become a h-costume member from
Melbourne, Australia. ... and that I have been since then... but I've
been silent.

Now, I guess I'll have to explain why!

As the archives were online along with my old e-mail address (which
was barbara at math dot tu dash berlin dot de), the address was soon
pretty much useless. It got harvested by e-mail address collectors and
I suspect it became part of a virus kit, because it obviously became
the nominal (fake) sender address of virus e-mails that I, needless to
say, never sent (reading my e-mail mostly with a text-based interface
on unix-like systems). I used to have a pretty clear picture at that
time what viruses where currently around, from the number of 'reply'
e-mails that I got that an e-mail of 'mine' (that I had never sent)
had contained a virus.

So, I've been reluctant to post since then. In fact, this is my
special 'h-costume' mailing address now.

Now I'm back and I'm happy to read so many familiar names, still! I
believe I have only met one member of this list in person -- Bjarne,
we once sat together in a cafe in Kopenhagen. You showed me pictures
of your embroidery and I showed you pictures of someone else's
embroidery (namely that of the gold embroderers of Buchara,
Uzbekistan).

So now, I live in Melbourne, Australia, and a move across countries
like this does have its difficulties, it can also limit one's
creativity a bit. But September was costuming month. My daughter's
school turned 120 years, and the kids were supposed to dress up
"old-fashioned". The school gave some hints on how to do that, and I
browsed my 1887 dress pattern catalogues and found the hints were all
wrong. In fact, I had a hard time finding an 1887s 7 y.o. girl's
costume that would clearly stand out as 'old-fashioned' and could not
have been worn today as well, at least by little girls. Knee-length
skirts and ruffles never went away for girls, I believe. In the end, I
tried to make a costume a bit like Alice's in the original
illustrations of "Through the Looking Glass", in particular a "dress
apron" which I am really proud of, after instructions from the
"Workwoman's Guide, by a Lady". (Okay okay -- that's 1838, but Alice
wears one!) (And she is from 1865, I know -- but at least that way you
can tell that it's an 'old-fashioned' costume!)

Then, only a few days later, my church staged an event where we all
dressed up as people from the 16th century and all travelled from our
church to the Immigration Museum, where a 'German Fest' was on and one
of us, as 'Martin Luther', nailed '95 theses' to a door which we had
supplied ourselves. (The idea was that the other visitors were invited
to afterwards write down their own theses on 'what does the church
need today?' and nail them to the same wall.) At least of that event,
I can point to a few photos: at
http://www.kirche.org.au/index.php?id=104.

Now, I'm ashamed to have to say... I still don't own a dressmaker's
dummy and doubt I'll ever find one that's adjustable to my size. But
if I had one... I wish I already knew what would be on there.

I will be getting married. Yes, and for the very first time in my
life. I already have a daughter and am getting married for the very
first time in my life! And it relly feels like The big event that I
have been waiting for! The relationship with her father  went to
pieces, but now I have met this wonderful, chaotic, intelligent, lazy,
lovable guy who is actually saying he wants to stay with me for the
rest of his life! We will have one (formal) marriage celebration in
Germany and one (religious one) here.

And it's approaching way too fast. The date is early January, and I
also work full time and have a lot of other commitments. In fact, I
feel like I want to retreat and do nothing else for the next three
months than prepare the party. And the biggest question is, what will
we wear?

He does live-acting role play, has seen the costumes I make and has
now made up his mind that he will want to get married in an 1830s
suit. Now, I have never made something like that, and his idea on that
is also very vague, so I'm looking for patterns now. Where can I get
patterns for an elegant 1830s mens' suit?

And for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in historical costumes
came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199
(http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.html;
or, with English text:
http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834&la=uk&uart=167)
which to my eyes  seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason
not historic, but modern. I see 'medieval' in it (sleeves), 'modern'
(bare shoulders) and '1930s' (slim, straight line)... any more
opinions? But how will that match an 1830s mens' suit?  But I'm not
going to make something 1830s for myself -- for fun, yes, not for my
wedding. Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
waltz in that. Or a tango. Dancing is a big thing for both of us.

So I'm still not quite sure about my own dress and am still looking
for inspiration.

It's customary that the bridegroom cannot see the bride's dress before
the wedding, so I even have to do all of this secretly!


Okay, please forgive my long post. It's great to be back.


Barbara -_- Maren
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References: <edcaf0220710041214x6355ed29j52c4e020a3e555b0@mail.gmail.com>	<47053F55.6080609@lavoltapress.com>	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B0262A7D6@lynx.campus.muc.prv>	<47054F82.6000703@lavoltapress.com><18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B0262A7DB@lynx.campus.muc.prv>
	<47055695.7020001@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:02:07 -0700
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Status: RO

Re the copyright question, what if the book you are copying from isn't in
print any longer and someone across the country wants a pic from it and you
own it. Is it ok to send a copy since someone wouldn't want to send their
book across the country to someone they didn't now well, not to mention the
postage costs? And how would you get permission to do said copy? Write to
the publisher? What if it's a privately published pamphlet?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Congratulations on being close to the end of your project

The "end" is relative, especially as a book printer will have it for at
least two months after I finish with it.  I'll announce it on h-costume when
it is available for sale.


  and stretching yourself to do it (only an assumption,

based on your saying it was your hardest project).

I don't enjoy doing things that aren't hard, or where I'm not learning
anything.

Best,

Fran
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	<1191539136.470571c05f726@webmail.netspace.net.au>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:06:10 -0700
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Status: RO

Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would
have claimed! :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s

Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the
1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd
pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a
dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives
descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere.

The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such
as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new
outfit for you.

It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the
old pieces and really is a very clever thing.

My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across
the world in 1946:

"Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait
to get out of this uniform and into my good old..."

-C.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Oct  5 08:03:38 2007
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Kinko's
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Status: RO

Kinko's is also very strict on copyrighted material.  They actually moved 
their location away from our university.  When I was a student, there were 
forms in our textbook that we were supposed to copy for lessons.  Our 
instructor, who authored our textbook, wrote a letter and even visited 
Kinko's and gave permission for her students to copy the forms.  Kinko's 
would not accept her permission to copy the forms.  They stated that the 
textbook's publisher had to get formal permission.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 10:03:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

So it  sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution,  
huh?

Sylrog


Sylvia,
There are ready-made sets available.  They aren't cheap, but they save  you 
all the trouble.  Check out
_http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/_ 
(http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/) 
 
I'm sure such an investment depends on many times you or your institution  
intend this class to be taught, but it seems to me it might be well worth  while.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Subject: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
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Status: RO

At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote:
>Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would
>have claimed! :-)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
>Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
>
>Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the
>1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd
>pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a
>dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives
>descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere.
>
>The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such
>as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new
>outfit for you.
>
>It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the
>old pieces and really is a very clever thing.
>
>My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across
>the world in 1946:
>
>"Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait
>to get out of this uniform and into my good old..."


My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and 
shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was 
still in the Air Force.

Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had 
to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool 
going to waste...............................

I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how 
to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. 
And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, 
and new things made.

Suzi 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <edcaf0220710041214x6355ed29j52c4e020a3e555b0@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 22:29:04 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 5:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
> Please?
> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
well, it's not sufficiently assembled to be worn by my dummy but I'm 
currently working on a mid 1850s day dress, which may also become a mourning 
dress (it's black so I'll just add accessories) if my friend actually gets 
around to setting a date for the 'mourning' themed housewarming party she 
said she started talking about nearly 6 months ago. So right now my dummy is 
wearing nothing but a petticoat (and a sheer one at that :-o)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole  | Elizabeth Beaumont
Canberra, Australia  | Politarchopolis, Lochac
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
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In a message dated 10/5/2007 8:02:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Six  years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I  would
have claimed! :-)


And how many men would have cared about a suit's being 6 years out of  style?
 
Real examples--
My grandmother made me a winter coat from a Harris tweed man's suit--not  
sure how she got the suit.  (My grandfather was long gone by then)
 
And my brother cut up my mom's gold satin blouse to use for some kind  of 
backdrop on his model railroad.  He saw it wadded up in the basement and  thought 
it was fair game.  Since the damage was already done, I also used  some for 
doll clothes.  (Satin wasn't common in our household.)
 
Ann Wass
 
PS  I had a home ec. textbook from WWII--it also recommended  unraveling an 
old sweater and re-using the yarn.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 05:59:19 -0700
From: "ann marie" <bestinterests@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: more on tea gowns
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I sent the following on the first, but didn't see it on the list.  If it
made it there, please forgive me missing it.  I am really looking forward to
your help
Ann

On 10/1/07, ann marie <bestinterests@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Fran and  Kathleen wrote about the tea gown for the Belle Epoque (thank
> you for not reminding me of my spelling error) period.  For your further
> guidance, I will be a visitor at a hotel where the event is held.  I am,
> ahem, not a young girl, nor likely to fool anyone that I will be near that
> age again, but I am divorced.  Given this information, and the additional
> concern that this is not in my home, nor am I a guest of someone else,  what
> should I do to be appropriately dressed?
> Thank you for all of the information about the  beautiful gowns!  Did the
> exhibition of gowns have a catalog?  I will be looking at purchasing the
> referenced books, but do not wish to embarrass myself in my enthusiasm. Are
> there specific references to the service of tea that will help me learn a
> bit more?
> Ann
>
>
>
>
> --
> What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean
> Jacques Rousseau




-- 
What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness?  - Jean Jacques
Rousseau
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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My DD is currently disassembled and up on a shelf (in a bag) where it is
a favorite cat napping spot for one of our feline kids.

The DD in my head is currently planning out costumes for a local
community theater production of Gross Indecency: The Three Trials of
Oscar Wilde in January.  I love a director who plans ahead for period
pieces :).  Budget is limited so we will do a lot of repurposing from
thrift store finds and probably save the $$, and sewing time, for OW's
wardrobe.  That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear
for the second act.....

Handsewing is still my favorite to do but it is increasing limited by
arthritis.

Catherine
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Union suits - was: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

I looked on ebay and they have union suits between $10 and $20. :)

Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote:  That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear
for the second act.....

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<7.0.1.0.2.20071005131554.03428470@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 07:48:08 -0700
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> My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts 
> for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the 
> Air Force.
>
> Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had to be 
> replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to 
> waste...............................
>
> I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to 
> make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I 
> remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new 
> things made.
>
> Suzi

I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms.  He 
retired in 1974.  I remember my mother and I both having suits made from 
that wool.

Melusine 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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>Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I=20
>coule care less if people think I'm nicey-nice.
>
>Fran

I don't think anyone was talking about approval or being thought of as
"nicey-nice". Manners would have been appreciated, though. I am going to
take your own advice and delete future messages from Lavolta Press.
Sadly, I'm sure I will miss good content on occasion, but consistently
abrasive, antagonistic posts do a disservice to both sender and list.

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
References: <edcaf0220710041214x6355ed29j52c4e020a3e555b0@mail.gmail.com>	<47054013.6070800@reddawn.net>	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B0262A7D7@lynx.campus.muc.prv>	<47055D57.70404@reddawn.net>	<62C0A8EC-3BAA-4776-8766-9E63B21FBBC1@bovil.com>
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Status: RO

stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:
> "Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to 
> get out of this uniform and into my good old..."
>   
"I did it to save resources for the war effort..."

Come on, that one's easy.

andy

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Try Vermont Country Store. Maybe they can turn you on to some
rejects/damaged ones that would otherwise not be sold. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:04 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

My DD is currently disassembled and up on a shelf (in a bag) where it is a
favorite cat napping spot for one of our feline kids.

The DD in my head is currently planning out costumes for a local community
theater production of Gross Indecency: The Three Trials of Oscar Wilde in
January.  I love a director who plans ahead for period pieces :).  Budget is
limited so we will do a lot of repurposing from thrift store finds and
probably save the $$, and sewing time, for OW's wardrobe.  That is assuming
I can find enough union-suit type underwear for the second act.....

Handsewing is still my favorite to do but it is increasing limited by
arthritis.

Catherine
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO



Beteena Paradise wrote:

 > Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might > 
consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is > 
a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they > 
are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not > 
because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job > 
there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating > 
many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods.

Sorry, that club for controlling me doesn’t work.

First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with 
customer service. I’m not obliged to run my entire life, change my 
opinions, insert ridiculous “IMHO” statements and smiley faces all over 
my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, 
possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold 
through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell 
directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The 
customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn 
buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, 
no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining 
information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the 
author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all 
interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on won’t buy 
them anyway.

Fourth, I’ve run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is 
not the first time someone has told me that if I don’t change my 
opinions about copyright, etc., they won’t buy my books (usually someone 
interested in such a different era from any I’ve yet published on, that 
they wouldn’t buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest 
impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you don’t. Sine I’ve 
managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while 
still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on 
my business.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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Status: RO


> 
> I don't think anyone was talking about approval or being thought of as
> "nicey-nice". Manners would have been appreciated, though. I am going to
> take your own advice and delete future messages from Lavolta Press.
> Sadly, I'm sure I will miss good content on occasion, but consistently
> abrasive, antagonistic posts do a disservice to both sender and list.
> 
> Astrida
> 
>

Thank you for taking the sensible approach.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Union suits - was: What's your dressmakers dummy
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Status: RO

Beteena's good advice:
I looked on ebay and they have union suits between $10 and $20. :)

And Sharon's:
Try Vermont Country Store. Maybe they can turn you on to some
rejects/damaged ones that would otherwise not be sold. 

Thanks guys!  I'm watching a couple on eBay and will checkout VCS. 
Part of the problem is I am looking for more summer weight than the
long-john style.  The production is in January however so I may be able
to get the director to consider longer ones.  (4 guys will be romping
on-stage in these).  I have found some offered by Dharma trading at a
price that would be worth hemming/shortening, but they are out of stock
until December.  The joys of community theater budgets!  I am also
checking my local thrift stores regularly.

Catherine
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Status: RO

Sharon,
How very sweet of you to ask.  I'll put my costume website back up
after I go thru an interview process next week.   I didnt want an ego
search to find something quite so un-serious given that the job is
engineering program manager.  Hardly appropriate.
As soon as they say yeah or nay it'll be back up.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


I'd love to see pics.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:07 PM

Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded taffeta, the
collar & cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs sleeves, closures &
a hem.
<snip>
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Status: RO

Right now, I have on my dress form the toile for my niece's wedding dress.
It will be silk duchess satin modeled off of the Paulina Astor portrait at
the Huntington Library with the decorative elements of a Charles F. Worth
gown.  I have already produced 5 Belle Epoch silk taffeta blouses (used up
20 years of lace bit collection), 6 petticoats of heavy silk Organza ( a
delight to sew with) , one over embroidered silk organza wedding veil beaded
and one silk satin Dore corset (never again).  I have 5 walking skirts, 5
Eaton Jackets, the wedding dress and the "going away" picture hat left to do
by June.  And everyone in the wedding party, except myself is 1,300 miles
away....Lord help me!!

Terri casey

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Status: RO

We just had a ragtime era wedding in August with a ragtime ball.  My
groom wore 2007 fashions; Mme wore a 1912 knock off.  I dont think you
have to match.  I would recommend that you each wear what makes you
feel handsome/beautiful, comfortable, festive, but you know all that.

The Burda pattern is charming, and I do love a fishtail hem, but I do
not think that you, as a dancer will be pleased.  The upper skirt
looks likely to shorten your stride at the knee.   IMHO, It should be
fine for Argentine tango, 30s foxtrot, 20s tango, but anything with a
longer stride like polka or swing might be frustrating. You didnt say
what styles you plan to dance at the reception.

Congrats,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Barbara Marien said>And for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in
historical costumes
came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199
(http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.html;
or, with English text:
http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834&la=uk&uart=167)
which to my eyes  seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason
not historic, but modern. I see 'medieval' in it (sleeves), 'modern'
(bare shoulders) and '1930s' (slim, straight line)... any more
opinions? But how will that match an 1830s mens' suit?  But I'm not
going to make something 1830s for myself -- for fun, yes, not for my
wedding. Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
waltz in that. Or a tango. Dancing is a big thing for both of us.
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what's on the dress form
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:27:23 -0400
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Status: RO

A big job, but it sounds absolutely beautiful!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 5, 2007, at 3:16 PM, Terri wrote:

> Right now, I have on my dress form the toile for my niece's wedding  
> dress.
> It will be silk duchess satin modeled off of the Paulina Astor  
> portrait at
> the Huntington Library with the decorative elements of a Charles F.  
> Worth
> gown.  I have already produced 5 Belle Epoch silk taffeta blouses  
> (used up
> 20 years of lace bit collection), 6 petticoats of heavy silk  
> Organza ( a
> delight to sew with) , one over embroidered silk organza wedding  
> veil beaded
> and one silk satin Dore corset (never again).  I have 5 walking  
> skirts, 5
> Eaton Jackets, the wedding dress and the "going away" picture hat  
> left to do
> by June.  And everyone in the wedding party, except myself is 1,300  
> miles
> away....Lord help me!!
>
> Terri casey
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

I have a similar book that is a hardcover, and is an updated version of
about 300 pages. It is also big on (remodeling) reusing fabric and
altering worn and out-of-fashion clothing, not just for children, but
for women too. The section for men is limited, supposing that all but
the simplest garments require a tailor that would be beyond the skills
of most housewives(which appear to be pretty formidable to modern eyes),
but kind of a not-so-subtle tone throughout, that clothing for children
and women should be of good quality, but make, alter, and mend so that
men will have enough money, as the breadwinners after all, of good
quality purchased clothing and the services of a tailor.

However since the book was first published during the Depression and
cloth and notions were the most expensive factors in any new garment,
the book makes a lot of sense, putting it in its proper time: the
Depression and World War II. The book naturally favors quality wool,
linen, and cotton, over untested synthetics and blends where fabric
content wasn't broken down for the consumer. Patterns ran 10-50 cents
usually, which was considered expensive unless the pattern would be
reused and not too many alterations were required. The book encouraged
sewers to use an old garment that fit as a beginning point to making a
pattern and showed how to make different pattern pieces based on the
original garment.

Although people wanted to be fashionable as much as today, the book
stressed that while movies and magazines were sources of ideas for
making one's own clothing, a classic wardrobe, for wear year after year
with small often removeable details for seasonal changes and bows to
fashion was the all-important "Good Taste", not embracing every whim of
Dame Fashion, was the proper way to go.

A multi-season coat, good basic black dress, a suit, pared with
multi-function blouses and skirts that could be mixed and matched with
boleros, jackets, vests and belts or no for multiple looks were advised
even for women who could afford servants.

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Jean Waddie
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 3:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote:
>> Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I

>> would have claimed! :-)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of=20
>> stilskin@netspace.net.au
>> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
>>
>> Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is=20
>> the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo=20
>> of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a=20
>> pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever=20
>> cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read=20
>> elsewhere.
>>
>> The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old

>> such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a=20
>> stylish new outfit for you.
>>
>> It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern=20
>> over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing.
>>
>> My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out=20
>> across the world in 1946:
>>
>> "Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just=20
>> cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old..."
>
>
> My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and=20
> shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was=20
> still in the Air Force.
>
> Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had to

> be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to

> waste...............................
>
> I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how=20
> to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And

> I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and=20
> new things made.
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while
watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television.  I think I would
have been about three years old.  I remember the red wool - I don't
remember anything about the wedding!

Jean
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Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 21:46:57 +0100
From: Jean Waddie <waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
References: <edcaf0220710041214x6355ed29j52c4e020a3e555b0@mail.gmail.com>	<47054013.6070800@reddawn.net>	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B0262A7D7@lynx.campus.muc.prv>	<47055D57.70404@reddawn.net>	<62C0A8EC-3BAA-4776-8766-9E63B21FBBC1@bovil.com>	<1191539136.470571c05f726@webmail.netspace.net.au>	<011501c806f4$4c59f590$0200a8c0@bobfamilyroom>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071005131554.03428470@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote:
>> Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I 
>> would
>> have claimed! :-)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
>> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: "repurposed" fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
>>
>> Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the
>> 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 
>> 100-odd
>> pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a
>> dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives
>> descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere.
>>
>> The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old 
>> such
>> as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new
>> outfit for you.
>>
>> It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern 
>> over the
>> old pieces and really is a very clever thing.
>>
>> My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out 
>> across
>> the world in 1946:
>>
>> "Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just 
>> cannot wait
>> to get out of this uniform and into my good old..."
>
>
> My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and 
> shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was 
> still in the Air Force.
>
> Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had to 
> be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to 
> waste...............................
>
> I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how 
> to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And 
> I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and 
> new things made.
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while 
watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television.  I think I would 
have been about three years old.  I remember the red wool - I don't 
remember anything about the wedding!

Jean
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h-costume mailing list
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From: jmdpease@att.net (Jane Pease)
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] What's your Dressmaker's Dummy Wearing?
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Status: RO

A late Elizabethan wheel farthingale gown which, I begin to hope, may actually be done for the Jamestown Ball in a couple of weeks.  Based loosely on the Ditchley portrait, the underdress is done, and an overbodice is coming along, to be attached to an overskirt.  Still to do is the neck ruff and, of course, as much trimming as I can get done in whatever amount of time is left.  Fortunately the stomacher and sleeves were trimmed prior to assembly.  

The Jamestown Ball is an 18th century ball to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Jamestown colony in Virginia, and the invite says to come in any style of the last 400 years, and the earlier the better. The high-gussy Elizabethan style is too early to meet the qualifications, I know, but it is a ball, after all, and authenticity is not the main concern.  At the moment, my main concern is how to dance while taking up all that real estate.

Jane in Northern Virginia
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos
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Status: RO




Fourth, I've run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is=20
not the first time someone has told me that if I don't change my=20
opinions about copyright, etc.,=20

Fran, I don't think anyone asked you to change your opinions, just to
consider other people's feelings in your responses. (Not what they think
of you, but how you make them feel.)=20

Patty

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
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Status: RO

Lots of snippage <


>>>The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such
>>>as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new
>>>outfit for you.
>>>
>>>It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the
>>>old pieces and really is a very clever thing.
>>
>>I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on 
>>how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk 
>>etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool 
>>washed, and new



>Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper 
>while watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television.  I 
>think I would have been about three years old.  I remember the red 
>wool - I don't remember anything about the wedding!


Totally O.T. That was the day my now husband proposed to me for the 
first time! Long and silly story should follow, but won't. Suffice it 
to say we've been married over 30 years!

Suzi

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Status: RO

Almost missed this thread -- if the digest topic list is over 50%
copyright argument, it's been deleted unread.

I'm experimenting with the Tibetan Panel Coat pattern, getting it up to
my size.  After that, it'll be mainly research for something I want to
take to Costume Con in 2010.  I don't know yet if I can wear it myself or
if I'll have to find a male volunteer, either way I want lots of lead
time.  (I never wear makeup if I can help it, so making myself up to look
like a guy should take 6 months experimentation all by itself.  And if
I'm mailing fitting muslins to the model .... )

I'm also trying to get the stash better organized.  It's been getting a
boost recently from a fabric store going-out-of-business sale.

Leah
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/5/2007 4:48:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk writes:

Still  the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the
>>  1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of  
>> 100-odd
>> pages from a time when a Pocket Book would  still fit in a pocket shows a
>> dozen different stitches, odd  techniques, clever cheats, and gives
>> descriptions that are  superior to any I have read elsewhere.



**************
 
I found a period 40's commercial pattern for sleeves to cut from  contrasting 
fabrics and replace old fashioned sleeves or worn out sleeves of old  
dresses. These were very clever and also had belts and bags to make out of the  "new" 
fabric so the sleeves didn't look like an add on....though most of   the 
sleeve were cut in one with yokes or some other bits that crept decoratively  into 
the bodice and looked like they belonged there in the 1st place. Like I  
said... they were very clever. I used one in a new costume I was making for a  
stage production of a war-time radio broadcast. The dress was a mint green with  
a print of white and coffee colored leaves. I cut the sleeves of a grosgrain  
in the coffee color and scattered spherical copper beads on  them. Looked 
great!



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ancient Egyptian garment
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:30:36 -0600
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Status: RO

Thanks Heather and all the rest who responded.  I did get the pics and=20=

info from one or more of you and was able to share them with my class.

Sylvia

On Sep 25, 2007, at 9:58 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

>
> On Sep 25, 2007, at 8:02 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone=20
>> posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered=20
>> some time ago.  It included a photo of the garment.  I wanted to show=20=

>> my class.  Anyone have the link, if it still exists?
>
> There are a couple of dresses (or fragments of dresses) of this type=20=

> that I've run across.  At the moment I'm away from home, so going off=20=

> what's on the computer, it's cited in "Hall 1981" which I think must=20=

> be:
>
> Hall, Rosalind.  1981.  "Fishing-net dreses in the Petrie Museum" in =20=

> G=F6ttinger Miszellen:  42:36-46.
>
> But also in:
>
> Hall, Rosalind.  1986.  Egyptian Textiles.  Shire Publications,=20
> Aylesbury.  ISBN 0-85263-800-0
>
> which is more likely to have a color photo.
>
> Heather
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 19:09:51 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] copyright and copying
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Status: RO

In my experience, U.S. libraries are just as strict about notifying  
patrons as Kinko's is about notifying paying customers.  The  
difference is that the libraries post the legal requirements and then  
allow the patron to take responsibility for their own actions.  (Of  
course, I still reprimand anyone I catch not following the  
policy...!)  We aren't doing their copying for them; we *do* want  
them to know the law and abide by it.

Suzanne

>
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> Date: October 5, 2007 3:28:31 AM CDT
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> I agree that this discussion has gone on long enough, but...
>
>> No library determines US copyright law.  What you are describing is
>> merely the policy of your particular library.
>
>> Fran
>
>>> I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying  
>>> of a section
>>> of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.
>>
>>> Kate Bunting
>>> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
>>> University of Derby
>
> Being in the UK, ours observes British copyright law! Sorry if I  
> confused the issue.
>
> Kate

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Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:33:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shirley Hobbs <shirleyjhobbs@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Fran -
   
  I am sure you write very knowledgable books.  It is obvious from your posts that you are an expert at everything you undertake.  I am familiar with you from several costume related groups and I'm afraid I must say your expert attitude is indeed a turn-off.  You publish books relating to the era that I am involved in, but because of your personality I am afraid I will never purchase one of your books.  I suppose that will be my loss.  However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am sure are as good, if not better than yours.  But I am sure you disagree with anyone else's books being better than yours.  I don't think anyone is asking you to be nicey nice.  Some common courtesy would, however, be nice.  Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you don't need to treat them as if they are stupid.  This could have been a really good, interesting discussion.
   
  Cactus

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
  

Beteena Paradise wrote:

> Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might > 
consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is > 
a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they > 
are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not > 
because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job > 
there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating > 
many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods.

Sorry, that club for controlling me doesn’t work.

First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with 
customer service. I’m not obliged to run my entire life, change my 
opinions, insert ridiculous “IMHO” statements and smiley faces all over 
my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, 
possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold 
through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell 
directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The 
customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn 
buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, 
no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining 
information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the 
author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all 
interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on won’t buy 
them anyway.

Fourth, I’ve run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is 
not the first time someone has told me that if I don’t change my 
opinions about copyright, etc., they won’t buy my books (usually someone 
interested in such a different era from any I’ve yet published on, that 
they wouldn’t buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest 
impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you don’t. Sine I’ve 
managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while 
still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on 
my business.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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Status: RO

Can’t you guys just let a flame war die—-instead of inventing statements 
I never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me 
run around publicly denying them?

I’ve worked in publishing for 24 years, and I have several thousand 
books in my personal library. I own every competitive book on the 
market:  And furthermore, I’ve recommended numerous other books in my 
bibliographies, etc.  If you’re going to accuse me of something, try for 
a fact.

But:  OK, I’m assertive, aggressive, abrasive, an atheist, and 
everything that begins with an A.  I’m a nickel-plated bitch (I can’t 
think of anything else right now that begins with a B.  And I love every 
single minute of it.

But at least, I don’t write hate mail, either publicly or privately, or 
try to destroy personal reputations, or try to harm businesses, to prove 
how much nicer, kinder, politer, more popular, more conformist, more 
appropriately feminine, or more a member of an e-list clique, etc. I am.

Now, I really do have better things to do than answer repeated insults 
and invented statements.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


<snip>
However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am 
sure are as good, if not better than yours.  But I am sure you disagree 
with anyone else's books being better than yours.  I don't think anyone 
is asking you to be nicey nice.  Some common courtesy would, however, be 
nice.  Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you 
don't need to treat them as if they are stupid.

<snip>


Shirley Hobbs wrote:

> Fran -
>    
>   I am sure you write very knowledgable books.  It is obvious from your posts that you are an expert at everything you undertake.  I am familiar with you from several costume related groups and I'm afraid I must say your expert attitude is indeed a turn-off.  You publish books relating to the era that I am involved in, but because of your personality I am afraid I will never purchase one of your books.  I suppose that will be my loss.  However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am sure are as good, if not better than yours.  But I am sure you disagree with anyone else's books being better than yours.  I don't think anyone is asking you to be nicey nice.  Some common courtesy would, however, be nice.  Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you don't need to treat them as if they are stupid.  This could have been a really good, interesting discussion.
>    
>   Cactus
> 
> Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>   
> 
> Beteena Paradise wrote:
> 
> 
>>Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might > 
> 
> consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is > 
> a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they > 
> are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not > 
> because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job > 
> there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating > 
> many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods.
> 
> Sorry, that club for controlling me doesn’t work.
> 
> First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with 
> customer service. I’m not obliged to run my entire life, change my 
> opinions, insert ridiculous “IMHO” statements and smiley faces all over 
> my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, 
> possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold 
> through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell 
> directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The 
> customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn 
> buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, 
> no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining 
> information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the 
> author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all 
> interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on won’t buy 
> them anyway.
> 
> Fourth, I’ve run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is 
> not the first time someone has told me that if I don’t change my 
> opinions about copyright, etc., they won’t buy my books (usually someone 
> interested in such a different era from any I’ve yet published on, that 
> they wouldn’t buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest 
> impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you don’t. Sine I’ve 
> managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while 
> still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on 
> my business.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> test'; ">
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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> 
> I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms.  He
> retired in 1974.  I remember my mother and I both having suits made from
> that wool.
> Melusine

Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the things. 
One day, one day...

-C.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Repurposing" fabric in the 1940s
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>>
>> I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms. 
>> He retired in 1974.  I remember my mother and I both having suits made 
>> from that wool.
>> Melusine
>
> Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the 
> things.
> One day, one day...
>
> -C.

No, what I had was just the fabric.  The patches and his actual uniforms 
were in his storage unit when the facility burned.  He and my step-mother 
were full-time RV'ing, so they and the animals were fine, but they lost 
everything that wasn't in the motorhome, including family heirlooms.

Melusine 

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> Can’t you guys just let a flame war die—-instead of inventing statements I 
> never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me run 
> around publicly denying them?

 "_make me_"  ??!??  My kids are 13 and 15 and they quit saying "he made me" 
about 5 years ago. How old are you?

**Who** can't let it die?  Look in the mirror.


sheesh. 

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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Can we all just pull up our big girl pants and move on?
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Land of Oz
Sent: Fri 10/5/2007 10:25 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos



> Can't you guys just let a flame war die--instead of inventing =
statements I
> never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me =
run
> around publicly denying them?

 "_make me_"  ??!??  My kids are 13 and 15 and they quit saying "he made =
me"
about 5 years ago. How old are you?

**Who** can't let it die?  Look in the mirror.


sheesh.

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On Thursday 04 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Thanks! I never thought of Dover.

They do have tons of clip art books, and also works which are reprints in the 
strict sense.  And they have a website!  I believe its doverpublications.com.  
Good luck with your class!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Well, if you've been on that list any length of time, you'll probably have 
noticed that Fran *is* harsh. Personnally, I just delete her emails.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>


>I agree.  Can we not try to insult one another and start flame wars?
>
> Sylrob
>
> On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:36 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:
>
>> Wow - that was harsh!
>>
>> Patty

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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1830 info.
http://www.connerprairie.org/historyonline/clothing.html

AFAIK, they had layers of petticoats and not hoops.
http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#The%20Underwear 

Men/paperdoll 1830
http://www.fancyephemera.com/historicalfashion.html#1830sbeau

1830 wedding gowns
http://www.fancyephemera.com/bridepage2.html#BEAUTIFUL%20GOWNS

Fashion plates
http://weddingdressesgallery.com/?cat=9

Gown
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_500.htm

Scroll down to the pink gown
http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm

Or were you wanting 1930s?

De
-----Original Message-----

Barbara Marien said>And for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in
historical costumes
came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199
(http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.htm
l;
or, with English text:
http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834&la=uk&uart=167)
which to my eyes  seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason
not historic, but modern. I see 'medieval' in it (sleeves), 'modern'
(bare shoulders) and '1930s' (slim, straight line)... any more
opinions? But how will that match an 1830s mens' suit?  But I'm not
going to make something 1830s for myself -- for fun, yes, not for my
wedding. Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
waltz in that. Or a tango. Dancing is a big thing for both of us.


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The problem is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she chooses. It's her life and her kharma. The problem is that Fran is harsh to people in a public forum to such an extent that she has a reputation that people should avoid her at all costs. Her harshness has led to people leaving e-lists of topics they enjoy. Her cop-out of telling us to use a filter is not acceptable. I shouldn't have to filter out someone because they cannot come up with the common decency to behave in a manner accepted by the society in which she is travelling. In this case, that society is this e-list. Clearly as a group we find her behavior unacceptable. She should either put on HER big girl pants and save her venom for those in her real life who can choose to walk away. We, as a group, joined this list to talk about HISTORIC COSTUME... not to have to listen to a bitter woman call people thieves and trolls. Perhaps she should make a list called FRAN and then she can talk about anything she
 wants in a manner that she chooses and anyone who wants to participate can join that list.
   
  Now my personal rant is over and I prefer to return to talking about historic costumes so that is what I am going to do.   For example... I am considering a German gown similar to Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach55.html
   
  The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or is it embroidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight damask (I already have a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you think that a silk velvet would have enough body to it to work right with the damask? Or would something else work better?

Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
  Well, if you've been on that list any length of time, you'll probably have 
noticed that Fran *is* harsh. Personnally, I just delete her emails.

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AMEN!  Now back to the beautiful gown.  Looks like damask to me.
  http://www.myspace.com/wildthangstreasures
http://blog.myspace.com/wildthangstreasures
  http://groups.myspace.com/wildthangstreasures
  

Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:
    The problem is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she chooses. It's her 
   
   
   


  Lady Von
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
    http://groups.myspace.com/wildthangstreasures


       
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From: zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]How about "shunning"?(Was  Enough!!!!!.....) 
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 09:35:18 -0700
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=20
I find it interesting that you mention karma because this type of conundrum=
 has come up on several of my (very diverse) lists recently.  Perhaps it is=
 coming around as it was going around.=20
  At any rate, while I agree with you that Fran takes unacceptable libertie=
s (ie. name calling and belittling) in her communications with others on th=
is list, I am a believer in the right to free speech.  There are even times=
 when I enjoy what she has to say (for example, retrospectives on past fash=
ions). The best solution would be if she cared enough to study and learn po=
lite behavior, second best would be to take rants off list.The third soluti=
on if the above fail is not to engage in struggle with her, which is what m=
any of us already do with filters, etc.  In the old days it was called "shu=
nning" and is quite effective, especially over the internet where we can wa=
lk away even more effectively than in person.  In modified form, it is a ti=
me-honored parenting technique.
=20
My two cents,
Laurie (mother of 4)
=20
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 03:13:32 -0700> From: beteena@mostlymedieval.com> T=
o: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com> CC: > Subject: [h-c=
ost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list is supposed to be abou=
t.> > The problem is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she cho=
oses. It's her life and her kharma. The problem is that Fran is harsh to pe=
ople in a public forum to such an extent that she has a reputation that peo=
ple should avoid her at all costs. Her harshness has led to people leaving =
e-lists of topics they enjoy. Her cop-out of telling us to use a filter is =
not acceptable. I shouldn't have to filter out someone because they cannot =
come up with the common decency to behave in a manner accepted by the socie=
ty in which she is travelling. In this case, that society is this e-list. C=
learly as a group we find her behavior unacceptable. She should either put =
on HER big girl pants and save her venom for those in her real life who can=
 choose to walk away. We, as a group, joined this list to talk about HISTOR=
IC COSTUME... not to have to listen to a bitter woman call people thieves a=
nd trolls. Perhaps she should make a list called FRAN and then she can talk=
 about anything she> wants in a manner that she chooses and anyone who want=
s to participate can join that list.>=20
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your Dressmaker's Dummy Wearing?
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Please let us have some photos to see, screeeam! out loud


Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jane Pease" <jmdpease@att.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your Dressmaker's Dummy Wearing?


>A late Elizabethan wheel farthingale gown which, I begin to hope, may 
>actually be done for the Jamestown Ball in a couple of weeks.  Based 
>loosely on the Ditchley portrait, the underdress is done, and an overbodice 
>is coming along, to be attached to an overskirt.  Still to do is the neck 
>ruff and, of course, as much trimming as I can get done in whatever amount 
>of time is left.  Fortunately the stomacher and sleeves were trimmed prior 
>to assembly.
>
> The Jamestown Ball is an 18th century ball to celebrate the 400th 
> anniversary of the Jamestown colony in Virginia, and the invite says to 
> come in any style of the last 400 years, and the earlier the better. The 
> high-gussy Elizabethan style is too early to meet the qualifications, I 
> know, but it is a ball, after all, and authenticity is not the main 
> concern.  At the moment, my main concern is how to dance while taking up 
> all that real estate.
>
> Jane in Northern Virginia
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
waltz in that. 


****************
 
 
Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the  period.



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On Oct 6, 2007, at 6:13 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:
>
>   The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or  
> is it embroidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight  
> damask (I already have a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you  
> think that a silk velvet would have enough body to it to work right  
> with the damask? Or would something else work better?

The yellow could also be a figured cloth-of-gold.  Silk velvet (or  
what's called silk velvet today) is too limp to behave well in this  
context, but it's possible that you could underline it with something  
to stiffen it up.  It would be tricky to control the layers, since  
the velvet will want to crawl out the door when you try to sew it.   
If you do want to try this, I'd recommend first hand-basting the  
velvet to the underlining along all of the stitching lines, then hand- 
basting the underlined pieces to the rest before you sew it on the  
machine.  Even better would be hand-sewing the whole thing, as you  
can control it much more easily that way.  Best would be padstitching  
the velvet to the underlining, then hand-sewing the whole thing...how  
much time have you got??

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list
	issupposed to be about.
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Status: RO

I absolutely agreed with everything you said, and the brocade gown looks =
lovely.  I think your idea of silk velvet is probably a good idea.  I =
think anything heavier would not give you the same look as the painting =
and would definitely affect the flow of the gown.  I can't wait to see =
it when you're finished--be sure to post pictures.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Beteena Paradise<mailto:beteena@mostlymedieval.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> ; =
h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 3:13 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list =
issupposed to be about.


  The problem is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she =
chooses. It's her life and her kharma. The problem is that Fran is harsh =
to people in a public forum to such an extent that she has a reputation =
that people should avoid her at all costs. Her harshness has led to =
people leaving e-lists of topics they enjoy. Her cop-out of telling us =
to use a filter is not acceptable. I shouldn't have to filter out =
someone because they cannot come up with the common decency to behave in =
a manner accepted by the society in which she is travelling. In this =
case, that society is this e-list. Clearly as a group we find her =
behavior unacceptable. She should either put on HER big girl pants and =
save her venom for those in her real life who can choose to walk away. =
We, as a group, joined this list to talk about HISTORIC COSTUME... not =
to have to listen to a bitter woman call people thieves and trolls. =
Perhaps she should make a list called FRAN and then she can talk about =
anything she
   wants in a manner that she chooses and anyone who wants to =
participate can join that list.
    =20
    Now my personal rant is over and I prefer to return to talking about =
historic costumes so that is what I am going to do.   For example... I =
am considering a German gown similar to Duchess Katherine von =
Mecklenburg. =
http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach55.html<http://www.abcgallery.=
com/C/cranach/cranach55.html>
    =20
    The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or is =
it embroidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight damask (I =
already have a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you think that a =
silk velvet would have enough body to it to work right with the damask? =
Or would something else work better?

  Audrey Bergeron-Morin =
<audreybmorin@gmail.com<mailto:audreybmorin@gmail.com>> wrote:
    Well, if you've been on that list any length of time, you'll =
probably have=20
  noticed that Fran *is* harsh. Personnally, I just delete her emails.

  _______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Status: RO

Actually, a lot of the maneuverability issues depend on whether you're =
using a modern substitute hoop that has circular hoops all the way =
around suspended in a drawstring petticoat, or if you have a more =
accurate cage crinoline which a) shifts the weight of the skirts to the =
back and b) more importantly, has a "break" in the hooping along the =
front.  That "gap" (for lack of a better word) is the key to =
maneuverability in a hoop--you can sit, you can dance, you can do LOTS =
of things when the gap is there that become cumbersome when it isn't.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 6:11 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes



  In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
  otsisto@socket.net<mailto:otsisto@socket.net> writes:

  Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
  waltz in that.=20


  ****************
  =20
  =20
  Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the  period.



  ************************************** See what's new at =
http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: [h-cost]The last word? Re: [h-cost]How about "shunning"?(Was
	Enough!!!!!.....) 
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:45:25 -0400
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Status: RO

The trouble with clashes over manners, personalities, or offenses is  
that each of those involved wants to have the last word in the  
argument, whether it be a final word of self-defense or a final word  
of accusation or justification. But getting the last word is  
impossible if everybody wants it.

I enjoy this list because so many knowledgeable and artistic and  
dedicated people are so willing to share their knowledge, experience,  
and perspective, not only with the equally knowledgeable or equally  
educated or equally professional but also with the curious, the  
neophyte, the self-taught, and the amateur. I have benefited at one  
time or another from postings by almost everybody else on this list,  
including Fran.

I'd like the REAL last word to be: let's just stop going on about  
this sort of thing. If someone posts information that is inaccurate  
or only one part of the story, of course others should correct or add  
to the information. If someone posts an idea or opinion about the  
kinds of things this List properly addresses, then of course others  
should chime in. But if someone makes a remark that others consider  
inappropriate, can't we just shrug, murmur to ourselves "oh, there  
she (or he) goes again" (or even "what a jackass"), and then let the  
thing die on the vine? If someone wants to stop reading someone  
else's posts, isn't that an individual decision not necessary to  
announce? If someone wants to get into a personal dispute, can't it  
be done using personal e-mail addresses? If I want to open h-cost  
messages in order to learn about costume, fashion, sewing techniques,  
and other related subjects (the copyrights discussion was very  
interesting and very useful to me...for awhile...), shouldn't I be  
able to do that without having to guess which of 60 messages on a  
subject are worthwhile to me and which are merely angry or defensive  
people trying to have the last word?

That, at least, is my "last word." PLEASE, no need to comment on it!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 6, 2007, at 12:35 PM, zelda crusher wrote:

>
>
> I find it interesting that you mention karma because this type of  
> conundrum has come up on several of my (very diverse) lists  
> recently.  Perhaps it is coming around as it was going around.
>   At any rate, while I agree with you that Fran takes unacceptable  
> liberties (ie. name calling and belittling) in her communications  
> with others on this list, I am a believer in the right to free  
> speech.  There are even times when I enjoy what she has to say (for  
> example, retrospectives on past fashions). The best solution would  
> be if she cared enough to study and learn polite behavior, second  
> best would be to take rants off list.The third solution if the  
> above fail is not to engage in struggle with her, which is what  
> many of us already do with filters, etc.  In the old days it was  
> called "shunning" and is quite effective, especially over the  
> internet where we can walk away even more effectively than in  
> person.  In modified form, it is a time-honored parenting technique.
>
> My two cents,
> Laurie (mother of 4)
>
>> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 03:13:32 -0700> From:  
>> beteena@mostlymedieval.com> To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume- 
>> owner@mail.indra.com> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and  
>> a return to what this list is supposed to be about.> > The problem  
>> is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she chooses.  
>> It's her life and her kharma. The problem is that Fran is harsh to  
>> people in a public forum to such an extent that she has a  
>> reputation that people should avoid her at all costs. Her  
>> harshness has led to people leaving e-lists of topics they enjoy.  
>> Her cop-out of telling us to use a filter is not acceptable. I  
>> shouldn't have to filter out someone because they cannot come up  
>> with the common decency to behave in a manner accepted by the  
>> society in which she is travelling. In this case, that society is  
>> this e-list. Clearly as a group we find her behavior unacceptable.  
>> She should either put on HER big girl pants and save her venom for  
>> those in her real life who can choose to walk away. We, as a  
>> group, joined this list to talk about HISTORIC COSTUME... not to  
>> have to listen to a bitter woman call people thieves and trolls.  
>> Perhaps she should make a list called FRAN and then she can talk  
>> about anything she> wants in a manner that she chooses and anyone  
>> who wants to participate can join that list.>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
> http://www.reallivemoms.com? 
> ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list
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Status: RO

Beteena Paradise wrote:
 > The problem is not that Fran is harsh... Fran can be whatever she 
chooses. It's her life and her kharma.

You are absolutely right.  I DO do exactly what I want, whether I want 
to be "nice" or not--which is what seems to annoy people like you. This 
is why, on this and h-needlework, you’re hoping to make me cringe by the 
awful threat of not buying a book. It’s not that I’m not “nice”—your 
screaming uncontrollably and to hundreds of people about how much you 
dislike someone you’re never met, and with whom you interacted directly 
for the first time two weeks ago (see below), baldly lying about “people 
leaving lists,” calling names like “bitter woman,” urging me to go away, 
and trying to get everyone else to join in on “let’s kick Fran out, we 
don’t want her in our little costuming clique!” is hardly “polite.”

Beteena, you already publicly screamed at me in the course of a recent 
copyright discussion on the historic needlework list—just because you 
disagreed with my views.  And already tried all the same tricks of 
trying to jerk my chain by threatening not to buy my books, etc., etc. 
_Your_ cop out of “If I don’t like someone they should just 
automatically go away from wherever I happen to want to be” is not 
acceptable.

Mature people get over the idea that there are some people in many 
public situations—co-workers, club members, e-list members, even their 
relatives--whom they dislike. They learn to live with it. I mean, you 
dislike me.  So what.  Big deal. Who cares.

So, as long as you quit attacking me, and getting your friends to join 
in more public or private hate-mail campaigns, I won’t attack you.

So now I’ll make the usual statement to end a flame to try and convince 
everyone I didn’t write it at all, or to justify everything I said 
earlier, because I was really only interested in costuming all 
along—just like several Beteena and several other people on this forum. 
  Here goes:

Let’s get back to costuming!  See, I said it too!

Oh, right, guess I have to come up with a topic now, one to prove that I 
really make costumes; since people are always trying to assert that I 
really don’t sew, or that I’m not really interested in costuming--with 
no evidence to prove either of course, and plenty to the contrary.

Let’s see:  Well, what I’ve been doing, in the relatively scant time I 
get off staring at a monitor (I can’t  sew _all_ day because I have to 
work), is I bought some tank dresses off Dharma Trading, which were 
extra-long on me because I’m short. I dyed them, put U-shaped 
bias-binding casings up each side, and ran a drawstring up each. Voila, 
an exact duplicate of an expensive designer “parachute” tank dress I saw 
on a website. I’d like to provide links to both, but both have been 
taken off the site. Pity, because in California at least, tank dresses 
do very well as jumpers this time of year.

Basically, being short has been a real advantage to me recently. The 
other thing I’ve been doing, and that anyone can do if they wish, is to 
shorten long, full skirts that are too long by “swagging” them. It’s 
sort of the same principle as making a tuck, only you don’t sew it down. 
I put the skirt on a dress form and figure out where to put the “tuck” 
so I get something that looks nicely “swagged,” and of course I also 
figure out how deep to make the “tuck.” I sew a row of buttons all 
round, towards the bottom of the skirt, about a foot apart, or somewhat 
less. Then I sew button loops lower down, which of course go over the 
buttons.  Of course the loops can be unbuttoned whenever you want the 
skirt longer and straighter, giving you two style options. Only since 
I’ve been using it as a hemming method, I don’t.

I’ve “parachuted” a couple of skirts to shorten them too, like the tank 
dresses above.

The other thing I’ve done, is shorten skirts by pleating them at the 
bottom. You can do this at intervals too, to get a “swagged” effect, 
only it’s permanent.

I really like doing alterations, and “fixing things up.” It has a 
problem-solving aspect that appeals to me. I especially like it when I 
can make the garment look better than it did at first, as well as 
fitting better.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com






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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list is
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Status: RO

Must have been someone else. I'm not on that list or any of the other lists you are on. This is my only e-list. Though I have endured your rants on this list both before and after my 5 year hiatus, this was the first time I have ever bothered to speak out against your behavior. 

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:  Beteena, you already publicly screamed at me in the course of a recent copyright discussion on the historic needlework list—just because you disagreed with my views. 
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Status: RO

 > The best solution would be if she cared enough to study and learn > 
polite behavior

Maybe, Zelda, someone in addition to you could display some.

Fran

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From: Shirley Hobbs <shirleyjhobbs@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this list is
	supposed to be about.
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Status: RO

It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert.  Also, the second red "stripe" - it looks to me like it's been laid over the damask and "reverse appliqued" (design cut out of the red and stitched rather than the yellow being applied on top of the red).  What do you think?  It's a beautiful gown and hope to see pics of the finished product.
   
   
  Shirley

Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:
  ... I am considering a German gown similar to Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach55.html

The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or is it embroidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight damask (I already have a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you think that a silk velvet would have enough body to it to work right with the damask? Or would something else work better?



 

test'; ">
       
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 15:21:41 -0400
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Status: RO


Hi!

Many apologies with being late in replying, but I don't check my e-mails as much as I should!? My dressmakers dummy is currently wearing a white faux fur Russian hat edged in pearls.? No current project on the go, as I am taking my daughter to Disneyland Paris soon, and too busy with an over-exicted 5 year old under my feet!

With Regards
Jayne


-----Original Message-----
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 8.14pm
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?




I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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> Though I have endured your rants on this list both before and after my 5 year hiatus, 

> this was the first time I have ever bothered to speak out against your behavior. 

And this is the first time I've bothered to speak out against _yours_.

Why don't you show me what it's like to be polite, tolerant, caring 
about hurting other people's feelings, etc.?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 15:24:39 -0400
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Status: RO


Psssst.....

It would really help us all to change the subject header when we change
topics. Every time I see the others, the ones related to the flame war,
I just delete them unread. I'm sure I'm not the only one!

::Linda::

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] polonaise jacket
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Status: RO

A lady friend from Gustavs Skål, sended me a pattern of a polonaise jacket 
1785-90. Its supposed to be me who sew it and embroider it for her.
But i have never seen the pattern before. I think its a pattern she made 
herself.
In the front it has a compere closing, looking like a stomacher with slanted 
lines in A- form of the jacket sides.
What i dont understand about the pattern is, that the jacket dont have any 
pleats in the waistline the "skirt" width is achieved by slanting seams, 2 
center back pieces, 2 side pieces and 2 front pieces.
Would it not be more appropriate to make the width of the "skirt" bigger and 
make more room for pleats in stead of slanting lines?
The shape of the jacket is to be more of a "bustle" pad than a round pad.

??????

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ...what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Verity is attired in:  a generic "Italian Ren" cotton chemise based  
on one in Cut My Cote, and the orange polyester satin 1490's  
Florentine dress that I made for CostumeCon 25 [the challenge merely  
said to wear orange...].  Both pieces are there to remind me to get  
to work on the mending!  I have a bad habit of stepping on my own  
hems when going up stairs.

On the cutting table, I've got the pieces of a black silk split skirt  
pinned together [The Sewing Workshop's "Tahoe Pant" pattern].  In a  
bag next to the sewing machine are the pieces of an Elizabethan high- 
necked smock that I'm no closer to finishing than I was in April....

Suzanne

On Oct 5, 2007, at 7:29 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
>
>
>> I'm bored with the medical, trademarks & copyrights discussions.  Any
>> chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
>> Please?
>> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
>> --cin
>> Cynthia Barnes
>> CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Gentles of the List,
   I have a young grand-daughter who has become deeply interested in 18th C high-status European fashions after seeing the most-recently-mdae "Cinderella" film.
  As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her new interest.
   18th C. European fashions are not a subject I have had any reason to research - [though I DO know the military history in considerable depth], and I have no reference Base to help me.
  Would Members of the List be good enough to make Book suggestions to help us pruchase a couple of sutiable reference books for our grand-daughter?
   
   Julian Wilson,
  dwelling in "old" Jersey,
  [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 15thC.]. 


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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cotton wool
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 16:58:25 -0400
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Status: RO

Dawn, thank you for this bit of info. I really didn't know! 
But I actually like the 'lumpy bumpy" texture... it just seems more
tactile-y interesting. ;) 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn

  When it's made up and
> washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just
> can't imitate. 
> 

"Lumpy bumpy" is a 20th century phenomena that only happens when quilts 
get put into a washing machine. In the 1800's a quilt would have been 
hung and beaten, spot cleaned when necessary, and rarely completely 
emerged in water. Water makes the quilt quite heavy -- one person would 
have trouble lifting it -- and weakens the cotton fibers making them 
shred. Normally the filling would have remained quite flat within the 
quilt.

You can buy raw cotton by the bale here: http://www.cottonman.com/ 
Dawn



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

I took most of the following info out of the entries I maintain to put 
for book and magazine article bibliographies, etc.

* Fukai, Akiko, Tamami Suoh, Miki Iwagami, Reiko Koga, and Rii Nie. The 
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: Fashion: A History from the 
18th to the 20th Century. Köln: Taschen, 2002.

This obviously does not focus entirely on the 18th century. But it does 
include all or most of the pictures of a couple of books the Kyoto 
Costume Institute DID publish on the 18th century, and which I think are 
now out of print.  I think there are several very similar editions of 
this book--in one volume, in two volumes, hardcover, paperback. etc. I 
don't recall that there's a ton of difference between them, however.

* Los Angeles County Museum of Art. An Elegant Art: Fashion and Fantasy 
in the Eighteenth Century. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1983.

An exhibit catalog with informative essays on fashionable and fancy 
dress, fabrics, decoration, and deportment. Men's and women's clothes.

* Baumgarten, Linda and John Watson. Costume Close-Up: Clothing 
Construction and Pattern 1750-1790. New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1999.

Scale drafts, photos, and detailed descriptions of the original 
construction and decoration of 28 women’s and men’s garments.

Al of the above are large, illustrated, in color, and otherwise 
eminently suitable as gifts.

There's also an in-print museum catalog, _18th-Century Costume in the 
National Museums and Galleries of Merseyside_, which I haven't entered 
in the file.  It's still somewhere in a pile on my sewing room floor.  I 
recall it as a rather small but nice museum catalog.

There's a nice little set of volumes of 18th-century and 19th-century 
accessories from the Snowshill museum--try searching on Snowshill on 
Amazon.  Again, they are on a floor somewhere and not entered in my 
bibliography file.

Hope this helps.

Fran
Lavolta Press Book on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


julian wilson wrote:

> Gentles of the List,
>    I have a young grand-daughter who has become deeply interested in 18th C high-status European fashions after seeing the most-recently-mdae "Cinderella" film.
>   As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her new interest.
>    18th C. European fashions are not a subject I have had any reason to research - [though I DO know the military history in considerable depth], and I have no reference Base to help me.
>   Would Members of the List be good enough to make Book suggestions to help us pruchase a couple of sutiable reference books for our grand-daughter?
>    
>    Julian Wilson,
>   dwelling in "old" Jersey,
>   [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 15thC.]. 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Greetings to another resident of Insulae Draconis :)
   
  I really like the book What Clothes Reveal
   
  http://www.amazon.co.uk/What-Clothes-Reveal-Williamsburg-Decorative/dp/0300095805/ref=sr_1_1/203-4570731-7562354?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1191705583&sr=8-1
   
  It is focused on 18th c American fashions but the images are gorgeous and it shows both men's and women's fashions. 

julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
  As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her new interest.

Julian Wilson,
dwelling in "old" Jersey,
[aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 15thC.]. 

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From: Amy Cooper <littlecoopmonkey@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!.....Cranach gown
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 14:29:22 -0700
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Status: RO


I just finished my first attempt at a Cranach gown and would love to compar=
e notes with you Beteena, if you're interested.  There's a few ways you cou=
ld deal with the guards, either sewing them on to an already completed skir=
t, which seems to me to be the best way to get a good drape to the skirt, o=
r assemble the skirt in many pieces.  From the painting you linked, I'd gue=
ss that the middle band is appliqued or the cut-and-slash method.

I'd think you'd be safe doing a damask, but I'd definately line it.  I was =
short on fabric and am convinced that lining would have helped, so would ha=
ving enough to make a fuller skirt that wasn't box pleated.

Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
Beteena Paradise  wrote:
... I am considering a German gown similar to Duchess Katherine von Mecklen=
burg. http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach55.html

The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or is it emb=
roidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight damask (I already h=
ave a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you think that a silk velvet wo=
uld have enough body to it to work right with the damask? Or would somethin=
g else work better?
_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

julian wilson wrote:
>   As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her new interest.
>   

These are not cheap books (most of them anyway) but they are some of the 
best for the period. Amazon.com carries most of them, but not always at 
the best price.


_Patterns of Fashion I: 1660-1860 , by Janet Arnold. Photos, close-ups, 
description, and scale diagrams of actual garments. I highly recommend 
this.

_Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries_ by Avril 
Hart, Susan North. Eye candy, close-ups, and some detailed drawings -- 
but no patterns. Recommended.

_The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930_ and  _The Cut of Men's Clothes: 
1600-1900 _ by Norah Waugh. Pictures, scale diagrams of surviving 
garments, textual discussion and descriptive quotes from period sources. 
Highly recommended.
	
_Everyday Dress of Rural America, 1783-1800: With Instructions and 
Patterns_   by Merideth Wright. Drawings, descriptions, and scale 
diagrams of early every day dress. Aimed at the beginning re-enactor, 
but good for someone who's not making a silk ball gown right off the 
bat. Recommended.

  	
_Fitting & Proper_ by Sharon Ann Burnston. Photos and instructions. 
Another book aimed at re-enactors, very nicely done. Recommended.

_Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century_ 
(Metropolitan Museum of Art) by Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton, and Mimi 
Hellman. Eye candy. Photos and text. Gorgeous, but maybe not as useful 
for a beginner.


_What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal 
America_ by Linda Baumgarten. I'm not familiar with this one, but it 
looks promising and has good reviews.

_Costume Close Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790_ by 
Linda Baumgarten, John Watson, and Florine Carr. Photos, descriptive 
text, and scale diagrams with instructions. Based on the collection at 
Williamsburg. Aimed at the re-enactor, very nicely done.


Dawn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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>   As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our
> grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about
> 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her
> new interest.

     Is it a start of a library, or a start in constuming/reenactment? 
Lots of good books have been recommended, both the "eye-candy"
originals and references complete with pattern drafts.

     In the reenactment community, 'Whatever Shall I Wear," by Mara Riley
ad illustrated by Kate Johnson, is a good starter book, very
practical and inexpensive.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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The Metropolitan Museum of art did a catalogue of the same title for it's "Dangerous Liasons" show. The pictures age gorgeous and the manequins are posed in "social" groups. I am pretty sure you can get it on Amazon. 
Monica

----- Original Message -----
From: Beteena Paradise 
Date: Saturday, October 6, 2007 5:24 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
To: Historical Costume 

> Greetings to another resident of Insulae Draconis :)
> 
> I really like the book What Clothes Reveal
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/What-Clothes-Reveal-Williamsburg-
> Decorative/dp/0300095805/ref=sr_1_1/203-4570731-
> 7562354?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1191705583&sr=8-1
> 
> It is focused on 18th c American fashions but the images are 
> gorgeous and it shows both men's and women's fashions. 
> 
> julian wilson wrote:
> As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our 
> grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books 
> about 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference 
> library for her new interest.
> 
> Julian Wilson,
> dwelling in "old" Jersey,
> [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 
> 15thC.]. 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Neat ideas - I'm short, too.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sat 10/6/2007 2:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this listis =
supposed to be about.




Basically, being short has been a real advantage to me recently. The
other thing I've been doing, and that anyone can do if they wish, is to
shorten long, full skirts that are too long by "swagging" them. It's
sort of the same principle as making a tuck, only you don't sew it down.
I put the skirt on a dress form and figure out where to put the "tuck"
so I get something that looks nicely "swagged," and of course I also
figure out how deep to make the "tuck." I sew a row of buttons all
round, towards the bottom of the skirt, about a foot apart, or somewhat
less. Then I sew button loops lower down, which of course go over the
buttons.  Of course the loops can be unbuttoned whenever you want the
skirt longer and straighter, giving you two style options. Only since
I've been using it as a hemming method, I don't.

I've "parachuted" a couple of skirts to shorten them too, like the tank
dresses above.

The other thing I've done, is shorten skirts by pleating them at the
bottom. You can do this at intervals too, to get a "swagged" effect,
only it's permanent.

I really like doing alterations, and "fixing things up." It has a
problem-solving aspect that appeals to me. I especially like it when I
can make the garment look better than it did at first, as well as
fitting better.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com <http://www.lavoltapress.com/>=20






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Yes, I forgot about that one!

Fran

Beteena Paradise wrote:

> Greetings to another resident of Insulae Draconis :)
>    
>   I really like the book What Clothes Reveal
>    
>   http://www.amazon.co.uk/What-Clothes-Reveal-Williamsburg-Decorative/dp/0300095805/ref=sr_1_1/203-4570731-7562354?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1191705583&sr=8-1
>    

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My assumption (maybe I should have asked) was that for a gift book, the 
givers often want something that looks lavish; and that most costumers 
seem to start out with eye candy/inspiration. And they never quit 
_liking_ eye candy, but after a while they additionally want more 
detailed information, and more technical information, such as pattern 
drafts in their libraries.  But they don't necessarily want it all right 
away.

For pattern books, there's also the good old:

Gehret, Ellen J. Rural Pennsylvania Clothing. York: Liberty Cap Books, 
1976.

Scale drafts, hand-sewing instructions, and information on materials for 
colonial clothes.

Which many people use for clothing not specific to rural Pennsylvania. 
It's a good book, and it's a well-produced book, but it's not a 
super-lavish book.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>      Is it a start of a library, or a start in constuming/reenactment? 
> Lots of good books have been recommended, both the "eye-candy"
> originals and references complete with pattern drafts.
> 
>      In the reenactment community, 'Whatever Shall I Wear," by Mara Riley
> ad illustrated by Kate Johnson, is a good starter book, very
> practical and inexpensive.
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Alterations
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Status: RO

Another thing I've been doing for full sleeves (both blouses and 
sweaters) that are too long is this:  Obviously, you can usually hem a 
free-floating sleeve bottom or move up a cuff. And I've done a lot of 
both over the years. (Since my father, my brother, and my husband all 
have short arms too,I have removed and replaced a lot of cuffs.) But my 
newly favorite technique is to use some thin seam binding (I usually 
just buy the synthetic/silky stuff in a matching color, but if I have 
some suitable ribbon scraps around, I use those), sew it inside the 
sleeve in one or two places higher up on the sleeve, run some narrow 
elastic through to fit my arm at the place(s) where I want the sleeve to 
fall, and thereby puff the sleeve while also shortening it.

What I've always liked for straight blouse sleeves is to use a row of 
visible 1/2" tucks near the bottom, when I can, but that only works for 
certain women's styles.

If you have a straight or somewhat flared sleeve with no cuff, and there 
is a lot of decoration at the bottom of the sleeve, you can just cut the 
bottom off right above the decoration, cut off some fabric from the 
temporary new "bottom," and then sew the decorated part back on for a 
"cuff" look.  Obviously, some seam tapering is also necessary if the two 
parts no longer fit after you have cut out some "middle."

Really, sometimes I'd rather do alterations than sew from scratch. 
Especially when I'm really busy and need small projects.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Neat ideas - I'm short, too.
>  
> Patty
> 

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
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Status: RO

I made something similar for a friend in broad cloth with limited
fabric available.  I cut my bands as needed, and I had an under layer
skirt of cotton sheeting, that I sewed the bands to.  With the layers
the skirt has the weight that it needs to drape properly and even
though it's in cotton, and meant as a test, it's still one of her
favorites.


On 10/6/07, Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:
> I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
>
>   Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.
>
> Amy Cooper <littlecoopmonkey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Have you given any thought to patterns yet?
>
> -Amy
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] polonaise jacket
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Status: RO


     There is a caraco in Patterns of Fashion, and I think it's similar,
without pleats or maybe it has minimal pleats.

     If she made the pattern herself, then perhaps she has a preference. 
Maybe she took it from an original.  Either way, if you're making the
jacket for her you can ask about the design and whether she wants it
to be changed.

     -Carol


> A lady friend from Gustavs Skål, sended me a pattern of a polonaise jacket
> 1785-90. Its supposed to be me who sew it and embroider it for her.
> But i have never seen the pattern before. I think its a pattern she made
> herself.
> In the front it has a compere closing, looking like a stomacher with
> slanted lines in A- form of the jacket sides.
> What i dont understand about the pattern is, that the jacket dont have any
> pleats in the waistline the "skirt" width is achieved by slanting seams, 2
> center back pieces, 2 side pieces and 2 front pieces.
> Would it not be more appropriate to make the width of the "skirt" bigger
> and make more room for pleats in stead of slanting lines?
> The shape of the jacket is to be more of a "bustle" pad than a round pad.

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
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Status: RO

I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
   
  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.

Amy Cooper <littlecoopmonkey@hotmail.com> wrote:
  
Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
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In a message dated 10/6/2007 10:56:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Well,  they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the   period.



Ah, but they had practice.  I think a modern bride would be wise to  
practice, too, if she chose a hoop skirt--not only dancing, but walking,  sitting, 
getting in and out of a vehicle. . . .
 
Ann Wass 



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Ah, yes, the kowtow scene in King and I springs to mind....


A personal pet peeve is brides stomping around in their gowns because =
they never wear skirts and don't know how to move in them... hoop or no =
hoop...


Astrida

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Sat 10/6/2007 9:20 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
=20

=20
In a message dated 10/6/2007 10:56:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, =20
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Well,  they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the   period.



Ah, but they had practice.  I think a modern bride would be wise to =20
practice, too, if she chose a hoop skirt--not only dancing, but walking, =
 sitting,=20
getting in and out of a vehicle. . . .
=20
Ann Wass=20



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http://www.aol.com
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Some friends who do some costuming decided to have an historical themed 
wedding, Victorian era.

I went.

They did not realise that Wild West counts as Victorian.

Ya-haaaaa...

-C.


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In a message dated 10/6/2007 9:31:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

They did  not realise that Wild West counts as  Victorian.

Ya-haaaaa...




I think you mean, Yeeeeeee-haaaaaa.
 
That was cruel--funny, but cruel.
 
Well, better than going as Victoria in widowhood, I guess.
 
Ann Wass



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Haha...
 
I'm continually telling brides on a wedding forum I post to to practise  
walking in their dresses before the day.
 
They rarely pay any attnetion, but hey, I try!
 
:o)
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 07/10/2007 02:28:23 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Ah, yes,  the kowtow scene in King and I springs to mind....


A personal pet  peeve is brides stomping around in their gowns because they 
never wear skirts  and don't know how to move in them... hoop or no  hoop...







   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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In a message dated 10/6/2007 6:41:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

I would  like to give our
> grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated  reference books about
> 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal  reference library for her
> new interest.



You say she is "young"--just how old is she?  As beautiful as it is, I  would 
not, for example, give the catalogue for "Dangerous Liaisons" to someone  too 
young--it is definitely rated PG-13.  Actually, the pictures are great,  but 
the text would probably go over her head (heck, it practically goes over MY  
head), so maybe it would be all right.
 
Any of the heavy drafting books, like Arnold, also, I think would not be as  
much fun for a really young beginner.
 
And if she doesn't already know how to sew, I would get her started, just  in 
case she does decide to do living history.  Maybe give her lessons as a  
gift, if you can't do it yourself.
 
I got intimately acquainted with the few costume books in my high school  
library.  One I don't remember the name of, and haven't seen it since, but  I was 
very taken by the two-page spread of David's painting of Napoleon's  
coronation--I dressed my Barbie like Josephine for a high school project, and I  still 
have that dress.  Another was Wilcox's "Mode in Costume."  I  know, I know, 
it's terrible, but it helped get me started--I made paper doll  dresses like 
some of my favorites!  I found a cheap used copy over 20 years  ago, so it is on 
my bookshelf.
 
Ann Wass
Ann Wass 
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:40:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
LuAnn_Mason@msn.com writes:

Actually, a lot of the maneuverability issues depend on whether you're  using 
a modern substitute hoop that has circular hoops all the way around  
suspended in a drawstring petticoat, or if you have a more accurate cage  crinoline 
which a) shifts the weight of the skirts to the back and b) more  importantly, 
has a "break" in the hooping along the front.  That "gap"  (for lack of a 
better word) is the key to maneuverability in a hoop--you can  sit, you can dance, 
you can do LOTS of things when the gap is there that  become cumbersome when 
it isn't.



**************
 
True.
But still, even though cage crinolines were numerous, there are also  
examples of hooped petticoats, and hoops start out being circular before moving  into 
that trained, elongated form you see near the end of the period. So there  
was still a whole lotta waltzing going on in circular, hooped petticoats. Of  
course no one said it was easy!



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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 22:30:18 -0400
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Status: RO

That's something I've recommended to every bride I've sewn for, or even just
had a long conversation about their dress with. Ditto for a few early 20
somethings I've done college formals for. Most women simply have no
experience with anything longer than midcalf, never mind full skirts, and
don't know how to move in a dress with structure. 

I grew up wearing the longest skirts my mother would let me wear and the
first bride a made a gown for had perfect posture and knew how to handle a
skirt. Then I made my college roommate's first formal dress. Wow! The
lessons started with taking her out to buy her first pair of real shoes -
and trying to teach her how to walk in them (1 1/2 heels at the most)
instead of her usual sneakers. I though the shoe salesman would die trying
not to laugh. Just imagine the most frumpy, introverted, asexual college
student you can, along with a very girly little pixie yelling at her "no,
no, no, put you heel down before your toes! And don't spin on your heels,
turn on your toes" In another year I had her dressing in "girl clothes" and
even combing her hair. (I corrupted her in a few other ways too)

Beth Chamberlain

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 9:20 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

 
In a message dated 10/6/2007 10:56:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Well,  they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the   period.



Ah, but they had practice.  I think a modern bride would be wise to  
practice, too, if she chose a hoop skirt--not only dancing, but walking,
sitting, 
getting in and out of a vehicle. . . .
 
Ann Wass 



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

The first costuming book I ever had was _The Pictorial Encyclopedia of 
Fashion_, by Ludmila Kybalova et al. (It's a translation.)  I bought it 
from a remainder house for $1 or something, by mail, when I was 15 or 
16.  I thought it was incredibly cool.  My parents had been buying me 
Victorian and Edwardian clothes at estate auctions for years, but I had 
had no idea how to date them, or really what they meant. Then a little 
while later I got Millia Davenport's _The Book of Costume_ and Francois 
Boucher's _History of Costume_.  Even more cool, three whole books on 
historic costume! I still have them all. They're not exactly in-depth, 
of course, but it was not such a bad thing to have the equivalent of a 
"history of Western Civilization" lecture course on costume before I 
learned anything more detailed.  It gave me a framework for 
understanding what went where, era-wise.

I started working on constucting costumes taking clothing design courses 
in college, which was a real divergence from what all the other students 
were doing (although one woman in a couple of courses I took was making 
a lot of "authentic" ethnic clothing).

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 10/6/2007 6:41:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
> aquazoo@patriot.net writes:
> 
> I would  like to give our
> 
>>grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated  reference books about
>>18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal  reference library for her
>>new interest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You say she is "young"--just how old is she?  As beautiful as it is, I  would 
> not, for example, give the catalogue for "Dangerous Liaisons" to someone  too 
> young--it is definitely rated PG-13.  Actually, the pictures are great,  but 
> the text would probably go over her head (heck, it practically goes over MY  
> head), so maybe it would be all right.
>  
> Any of the heavy drafting books, like Arnold, also, I think would not be as  
> much fun for a really young beginner.
>  
> And if she doesn't already know how to sew, I would get her started, just  in 
> case she does decide to do living history.  Maybe give her lessons as a  
> gift, if you can't do it yourself.
>  
> I got intimately acquainted with the few costume books in my high school  
> library.  One I don't remember the name of, and haven't seen it since, but  I was 
> very taken by the two-page spread of David's painting of Napoleon's  
> coronation--I dressed my Barbie like Josephine for a high school project, and I  still 
> have that dress.  Another was Wilcox's "Mode in Costume."  I  know, I know, 
> it's terrible, but it helped get me started--I made paper doll  dresses like 
> some of my favorites!  I found a cheap used copy over 20 years  ago, so it is on 
> my bookshelf.
>  
> Ann Wass
> Ann Wass 
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes, pardner
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In a message dated 10/6/2007 9:39:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

think  you mean, Yeeeeeee-haaaaaa.

That was cruel--funny, but  cruel.

Well, better than going as Victoria in widowhood, I  guess.



***************
 
I dunno... carry a bottle of Bombay Gin and it could be  cute....



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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:45:29 -0600
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Status: RO

Wow!  When you said they aren't cheap, I had no idea you meant they 
cost a fortune!  They look great, but way out of my price range which 
would be less than a tenth of that.  I'd have to teach for the next 40 
years and I'm sure I won't be alive that long. Thanks for the info 
though.

Sylrog

On Oct 5, 2007, at 5:01 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 10/4/2007 10:03:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> So it  sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution,
> huh?
>
> Sylrog
>
>
> Sylvia,
> There are ready-made sets available.  They aren't cheap, but they save 
>  you
> all the trouble.  Check out
> _http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/_
> (http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/)
>
> I'm sure such an investment depends on many times you or your 
> institution
> intend this class to be taught, but it seems to me it might be well 
> worth  while.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] polonaise jacket
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Status: RO

There are several examples of jackets that have no pleats and the skirts  
flare out at the side and back seams to get some fullness. But I think of these  
as being earlier than the 1780s. Think of the quilted outfit in Janet Arnold.  
That jacket with a hood. It too has a compere like a stomacher that closes 
CF.  The jacket is tacked onto it, and there is an updated drawing in the back 
of the  book to show how it forms an "A" line , not the line shown in the 
initial  illustration.



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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re [h-cost] what's on the dress form
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Status: RO

>Right now, I have on my dress form the toile for my niece's wedding
>dress. It will be silk duchess satin modeled off of the Paulina Astor
>portrait at
the Huntington Library with the decorative elements of a Charles F.
>Worth gown.

Pictures!  Design sketches?  Do you think we could maybe have a teensy peek?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Oh, absolutely.  It's just interesting to trace the evolution because =
the crinolines that have the open fronts are so much more comfortable / =
wearable / danceable than the earlier hooped petticoat style.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 7:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes



  In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:40:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
  LuAnn_Mason@msn.com<mailto:LuAnn_Mason@msn.com> writes:

  Actually, a lot of the maneuverability issues depend on whether you're =
 using=20
  a modern substitute hoop that has circular hoops all the way around =20
  suspended in a drawstring petticoat, or if you have a more accurate =
cage  crinoline=20
  which a) shifts the weight of the skirts to the back and b) more  =
importantly,=20
  has a "break" in the hooping along the front.  That "gap"  (for lack =
of a=20
  better word) is the key to maneuverability in a hoop--you can  sit, =
you can dance,=20
  you can do LOTS of things when the gap is there that  become =
cumbersome when=20
  it isn't.



  **************
  =20
  True.
  But still, even though cage crinolines were numerous, there are also =20
  examples of hooped petticoats, and hoops start out being circular =
before moving  into=20
  that trained, elongated form you see near the end of the period. So =
there =20
  was still a whole lotta waltzing going on in circular, hooped =
petticoats. Of =20
  course no one said it was easy!



  ************************************** See what's new at =
http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>
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  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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Subject: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. was: Enough!!!!!.....
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Status: RO

I agree it looks to be damask and not embroidery. Note, found this
http://www.hancocks-paducah.com/item--i-SW-GEORGIO-FAWN--m-356_357_368.html

http://tinyurl.com/25a5lm


-----Original Message-----
It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert.  Also,
the second red "stripe" - it looks to me like it's been laid over the damask
and "reverse appliqued" (design cut out of the red and stitched rather than
the yellow being applied on top of the red).  What do you think?  It's a
beautiful gown and hope to see pics of the finished product.


  Shirley

Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:
  ... I am considering a German gown similar to Duchess Katherine von
Mecklenburg. http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach55.html

The yellow looks like a damask to my eyes. Do you think it is? Or is it
embroidery? Stamped velvelt? If I do it in a decent weight damask (I already
have a nice golden yellow cotton damask), do you think that a silk velvet
would have enough body to it to work right with the damask? Or would
something else work better?



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 00:38:52 -0500
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Status: RO

Note: those words were the original poster's, not mine. :)

De

-----Original Message-----

In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
waltz in that. 


****************
 
 
Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the  period.



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 00:48:53 -0500
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Status: RO

The Victorian era begins with her reign in 1937. To my understanding crine
or horse hair tape was uses in the sleeves and petticoats during the 1830s
but around 1840s or fifties is when the hoops skirts start appearing. You
Victorian/Civil War gowns w/hoops are 1861. So if 1830 is the choosen era,
then it is petticoats with crine.

-----Original Message-----
Oh, absolutely.  It's just interesting to trace the evolution because the
crinolines that have the open fronts are so much more comfortable / wearable
/ danceable than the earlier hooped petticoat style.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 7:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes



  In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:40:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
  LuAnn_Mason@msn.com<mailto:LuAnn_Mason@msn.com> writes:

  Actually, a lot of the maneuverability issues depend on whether you're
using
  a modern substitute hoop that has circular hoops all the way around
  suspended in a drawstring petticoat, or if you have a more accurate cage
crinoline
  which a) shifts the weight of the skirts to the back and b) more
importantly,
  has a "break" in the hooping along the front.  That "gap"  (for lack of a
  better word) is the key to maneuverability in a hoop--you can  sit, you
can dance,
  you can do LOTS of things when the gap is there that  become cumbersome
when
  it isn't.



  **************

  True.
  But still, even though cage crinolines were numerous, there are also
  examples of hooped petticoats, and hoops start out being circular before
moving  into
  that trained, elongated form you see near the end of the period. So there
  was still a whole lotta waltzing going on in circular, hooped petticoats.
Of
  course no one said it was easy!



  ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>
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Status: RO

If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the top, sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and usually lead to a good solution:-)

It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th century.



Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote: I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
   
  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.

Amy Cooper 
 wrote:
  
Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
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Have replied "off-list" to all who have been kind enough to respond to my query.
   
  Julian Wilson
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
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I'll definitely have to look for that. Thanks for the info!

Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:  It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th century.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. was: Enough!!!!!.....
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> It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert.  Also,
> the second red "stripe" - it looks to me like it's been laid over the damask
> and "reverse appliqued" (design cut out of the red and stitched rather than
> the yellow being applied on top of the red).  What do you think?  It's a
> beautiful gown and hope to see pics of the finished product.

The gold on these gowns typically depict a gold brocade. As in the
metal not a shade of yellow, which is why I tend to go for the damasks
bordered in velvet much easier to find good modern alternatives.

A reverse applique would be very wasteful of fabric especially in a
tiem where the bulk of the cost of a garment was in the material not
the making.
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bild:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._038.jpg
If you click to get to the larger image you'll see the pattern inside
the scroll work on the red is deliberate and made to fit the scrolls.
I've been hunting for a clearer image but can't  find one tonight.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes
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> From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> The Burda pattern is charming, and I do love a fishtail hem, but I do
> not think that you, as a dancer will be pleased.  The upper skirt
> looks likely to shorten your stride at the knee.   IMHO, It should be
> fine for Argentine tango, 30s foxtrot, 20s tango, but anything with a
> longer stride like polka or swing might be frustrating. You didnt say
> what styles you plan to dance at the reception.

Hello Cynthia,
thank you for these ideas!

At a friend's wdding, my now-fiance and I got to dance together for
the first time and noticed that we were able to dance especially well
together and knew nearly the same dances and figures, having both
learned it within the sports program of (different) German
universities.

We will be dancing 'ballroom and latin' -- Viennese Waltz, English
Waltz, Foxrot, Tango (not Argentino, the European Version), Disco-Fox,
Cha-cha-cha, Rumba, Samba, Jive, possibly Paso Doble. Plus probably
freestyle. But the opening dance is to be a 'snowball waltz'. That
doesn't mean the music will be the 'Snow Waltz' (no way!). It's named
after the effect with which you can start an avalanche with a
snowball. One couple starts alone. They dance together for a few
rounds and then separate, and each is asking someone else to dance.
These new couples again separate after a few rounds to invite still
others that are still seated... and in the end, everyone will be
dancing.

In Viennese Waltz, the couple has to make a full turn within about a
second or less. To achieve that, they need to be quite close together,
which is why the dance was considered immoral for a long time. I
believe it wasn't actually danced much in the 1830s at all, though I
may be wrong. In 1920s Tango, the couple has to be even closer, and
the gentleman slides his leg between hers.In either case, you need
freedom for the legs, so thanks, I'll go by your recommendation and
try a mock-up of that fishtail skirt first.

And anyway... he has seen the pattern already so I'm even more unsure
if I will make that dress.

De:
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

Thanks for all those links. They are wonderful, but they don't have
patterns. They help me for _his_ suit, in particular

http://www.fancyephemera.com/historicalfashion.html#1830sbeau

and

http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm (the two gentlemen's
coats, in particular the red one).

Now, where can I get patterns for that time? For a mans' suit?

For myself, I'm taking Cynthia's advice, no indeed, we don't have to match.

A good hint I found on one wedding website: I have to make sure that
the wedding dress will fit into a suitcase. So, cage crinolines and
most hoop skirts are out of the question!

That said, there is another style that interests me -- and that's
Dior-ish or similar. .

And I've now placed a bid on a dress form! I've found one that seems
to fit my measurements!

Lucky that in Germany, we don't have bridemaids.

:-)

Barbara M aren
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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In a message dated 10/6/2007 10:35:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

The  first costuming book I ever had was _The Pictorial Encyclopedia of  
Fashion_, by Ludmila Kybalova et al. (It's a  translation.) 


That is the book we used as the text in our college class, back in  1972.  I 
still have it, too.  It has chapters on different topics with  quickie 
definitions that I sometimes find useful.  The course instructor  wanted a book with 
lots of pictures for the money.  She only taught the  class every other year, 
to both home economics and theater majors.  
 
Ann Wass



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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. was: Enough!!!!!.....
	and a return
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Status: RO

I do see exactly what you mean. And thanks for this image, it is much better than the one I had. I can see a lot more detail. :)

michaela de bruce <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com> wrote:  If you click to get to the larger image you'll see the pattern inside
the scroll work on the red is deliberate and made to fit the scrolls.
I've been hunting for a clearer image but can't find one tonight.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

Dress in 18th century Europe 1715-1789. by Aileen Ribeiro. Amazon Uk have 
it.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 10:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations


> Gentles of the List,
>   I have a young grand-daughter who has become deeply interested in 18th C 
> high-status European fashions after seeing the most-recently-mdae 
> "Cinderella" film.
>  As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our 
> grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 
> 18th C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her 
> new interest.
>   18th C. European fashions are not a subject I have had any reason to 
> research - [though I DO know the military history in considerable depth], 
> and I have no reference Base to help me.
>  Would Members of the List be good enough to make Book suggestions to help 
> us pruchase a couple of sutiable reference books for our grand-daughter?
>
>   Julian Wilson,
>  dwelling in "old" Jersey,
>  [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 15thC.].
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Wild Thang's Treasures" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  return to what this list is supposed to be about.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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What a great idea!  I also am short and while I have shortened some garments, this method sounds wonderful. I will have to attempt.

    ________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sat 10/6/2007 2:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Enough!!!!!..... and a return to what this listis supposed to be about.


Basically, being short has been a real advantage to me recently. The
other thing I've been doing, and that anyone can do if they wish, is to
shorten long, full skirts that are too long by "swagging" them. It's

   


  Lady Von
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
    http://groups.myspace.com/wildthangstreasures


       
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

REPLIED - WITH MANY THANKS - OFFLIST.
  JW

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Dress in 18th century Europe 1715-1789. by Aileen Ribeiro. Amazon Uk have 
it.

Bjarne
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Status: RO


--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> 
> Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to
> dance a waltz in that. 
> 
> **************** 
>  
> Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the 
> period.

In the 1860s, when hoops were worn, waltzes and polkas
and schottisches were all danced, vigorously.

I, myself, while wearing my hoopskirts, have lead
other women in a full-turning waltz more than once. :)
  

So even a modern person, who does not wear hoops very
often, can waltz with little to no trouble in hoops.


Hoops are a bit like lampshades, though--if you move
one side down, the other is very likely to fly up.

Ann in CT


       
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Status: RO


I haven't tried their patterns before.  I was in a rush and ended up using =
a modified version of the bodice from Simplicity 7756 and the sleeves from8=
735.  They work well enough, but the back neckline of the bodice is quite h=
igh and the sleeves require some adjustign and fitting as well.  I've heard=
 good thing about Kass' pattern.

I think you should be fine on the skirt construction.  As was mentioned bef=
ore, the velvet will probably try to slip around, so lining it is a good id=
ea.  Personally, while I love the rich fabrics, I think the wool versions c=
ome out just as nice.  Most of the ones I've seen online are done up in woo=
l too.

Beteena Paradise  wrote:

I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with the=
m is that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well=
 create the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-) Otherwise I ma=
y get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?

Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewin=
g together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). Th=
at is why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask =
and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might wo=
rk better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer ver=
sion in wool first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grand=
er fabrics.


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Hoops Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


--- LuAnn Mason <LuAnn_Mason@msn.com> wrote:

> Oh, absolutely.  It's just interesting to trace the
> evolution because the crinolines that have the open
> fronts are so much more comfortable / wearable /
> danceable than the earlier hooped petticoat style.
> 
> LuAnn

My 'open-front' hoops have partial hoops around the
opening.  cccoooo <--the layers, atop one another
rather than side by side, of course. ;)

They are a hooped petticoat, and not a cage.

10 hoops, with a double line of hooping at the hem,
and only to my knees.  

I was going to a masquerade ball with them, and it was
very common in the 1860s for women at masquerade balls
to wear knee-length skirts.
Yes, respectable women. :)

Basically, I wasn't going to make more than one set of
hoops.  

I took the early bustle hoops pattern from Waugh's
Corsets and Crinolines, left off the bustle support
entirely, and mucked around until the pattern worked
as I wished it to.  
The pleat in each back piece did a nice job of
swinging the hoops back a bit, which you can see as
early as the late 1850s (in Boucher 20,000 Years of
Fashion, there's a dated progression set of pictures).

Ann in CT


       
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From: Mary + Doug Piero Carey <mary.doug@pierocarey.info>
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Subject: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance
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Status: RO

Lord, yes Kinko's staff has ABSOLUTELY NO understanding of fair use.  As 
a matter of fact, most of the time, they have it exactly backwards.  I 
have been Repeatedly told by Kinko staff that if I was making multiple 
copies for classroom use, it would be all right, but since I only wanted 
one copy for personal use, they could not allow me to make the copy. 

Once, a costumer friend wanted to make an outfit from a cover of 
Analog.  We didn't want to haul the issue around. (Which I own.)  
Kinko's brain dead staff insisted that the copyright notice for the SFBC 
ad back cover art meant that Stan Schmidt's permission to make 1 color 
enlargement for the purpose of verifying the fabric & trim colors was 
invalid.   <headcounter>

They have refused to let me make b&w reductions of original artwork for 
me to file with my home insurance policy.  I wanted to get the sales 
receipt & the image onto the same sheet.  Can you imagine a more 
innocuous purpose?

Don't believe ANYTHING a Kinko staffer tells you about copyright law!

Mary Piero Carey
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 12:16:37 -0600
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Status: RO

I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to make copies for you or 
are they walking around policing people to see what they are making 
copies of by themselves?

Sylrog

On Oct 7, 2007, at 11:37 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:

> Lord, yes Kinko's staff has ABSOLUTELY NO understanding of fair use.  
> As a matter of fact, most of the time, they have it exactly backwards. 
>  I have been Repeatedly told by Kinko staff that if I was making 
> multiple copies for classroom use, it would be all right, but since I 
> only wanted one copy for personal use, they could not allow me to make 
> the copy.
> Once, a costumer friend wanted to make an outfit from a cover of 
> Analog.  We didn't want to haul the issue around. (Which I own.)  
> Kinko's brain dead staff insisted that the copyright notice for the 
> SFBC ad back cover art meant that Stan Schmidt's permission to make 1 
> color enlargement for the purpose of verifying the fabric & trim 
> colors was invalid.   <headcounter>
>
> They have refused to let me make b&w reductions of original artwork 
> for me to file with my home insurance policy.  I wanted to get the 
> sales receipt & the image onto the same sheet.  Can you imagine a more 
> innocuous purpose?
>
> Don't believe ANYTHING a Kinko staffer tells you about copyright law!
>
> Mary Piero Carey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
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Status: RO

Do you have a title and ISBN nr.?
Seems to be a very interresting book!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown


> If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical 
> costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the 
> top, sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three 
> possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I 
> haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and 
> usually lead to a good solution:-)
>
> It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting 
> magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting 
> instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th 
> century.
>
>
>
> Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com> wrote: I already have the 
> Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so 
> much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the 
> pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get 
> Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
>
>  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by 
> sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or 
> regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight 
> between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton 
> velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking 
> of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and 
> then do one in the grander fabrics.
>
> Amy Cooper
> wrote:
>
> Have you given any thought to patterns yet?
>
> -Amy
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>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Status: RO

I'd get my digital camera out and take photos instead.

Aylwen


On 08/10/2007, at 4:16 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to make copies for you  
> or are they walking around policing people to see what they are  
> making copies of by themselves?
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Oct 7, 2007, at 11:37 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:
>
>> They have refused to let me make b&w reductions of original  
>> artwork for me to file with my home insurance policy.  I wanted to  
>> get the sales receipt & the image onto the same sheet.  Can you  
>> imagine a more innocuous purpose?
>>
>> Don't believe ANYTHING a Kinko staffer tells you about copyright law!
>>
>> Mary Piero Carey

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
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Status: RO

I wore a 1940's vintage dress with hoops at my wedding.. at times it felt like I was the Queen Mary II coming into port (gigle). I am a thin tall lady - not used to having a circumferance as large as my arm span.

The only thing that took extra thought was I had to replace the standard high-backed chair (at the dinning table) with a piano stool. The stool looked a little silly sitting behind the table, but when I sat down on it the skirts completely hid it and I looked 'graceful' - because the skirt was hanging properly, not trying to hit the ceiling.

Katheryne 

At 10/7/07 01:01 PM, you wrote:

--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> 
> Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to
> dance a waltz in that. 
> 
> **************** 
>  
> Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the 
> period.

In the 1860s, when hoops were worn, waltzes and polkas
and schottisches were all danced, vigorously.

I, myself, while wearing my hoopskirts, have lead
other women in a full-turning waltz more than once. :)
  
So even a modern person, who does not wear hoops very
often, can waltz with little to no trouble in hoops.

Hoops are a bit like lampshades, though--if you move
one side down, the other is very likely to fly up.

Ann in CT/h-costume 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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At 06:31 PM 10/6/2007, you wrote:

>These are not cheap books (most of them anyway) but they are some of 
>the best for the period. Amazon.com carries most of them, but not 
>always at the best price.


My favorite place for buying books like these is http://www.abebooks.com

Sometimes the prices can be absolutely fantastic. I got Queen 
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd from Germany for $132, including 
shipping. It was the most I had ever spent on a book, but I'm so glad 
I did--and I could never have even come close to that price on Amazon.

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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In a message dated 10/7/2007 4:02:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
goofy4@comcast.net writes:

My  favorite place for buying books like these is  http://www.abebooks.com



For out of print books, it is the best!  It is actually a clearing  house of 
many, many (I don't know HOW many) individual dealers, who actually  process 
your order and ship your book.  But abe--Advanced Book  Exchange--has improved 
so you can pay through them on-line with a credit card,  instead of having to 
arrange payment with the individual dealer.  You can  sort by price, and I 
often get things quite reasonably.  You can also see  the country of origin--I've 
gotten things from France and the UK.
 
But, as I say, once you start ordering used books from overseas, it's all  
over--there's no stopping you then.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Be careful of a bookseller on Abebooks called Anybook. They are registered out of Hialeah Florida. They don't actually have an inventory of books. They just list all of the books that other places are selling and mark them up by hundreds of dollars. If you google Anybook Hialeah you will see some of the experiences people have had.

Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net> wrote:  At 06:31 PM 10/6/2007, you wrote:

My favorite place for buying books like these is http://www.abebooks.com

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:43:29 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For finding books online, also try

http://used.addall.com/
http://www.addall.com/
http://www.bookfinder.com/

These are also meta-searches that trawl through lots of peoples'  
inventories.

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:59:11 -0400
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Status: RO

Hmmph! Just last week I went to Kinko's to copy a couple of patterns.
They could not possibly have been more accommodating, one of the
assistants actually fed the sheets into the poster copier for me. I told
her that I wanted to copy the pattern because I needed several sizes
made up, and I needed to be able to cut them out separately. She looked
at the pattern sheets and asked, "Is this like a pilgrim outfit or
something?" When I told her it was actually a for a WW1 era- reenactor,
her eyes glazed over and she didn't say another word. 
She obviously was not the least bit concerned or interested. 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance

Lord, yes Kinko's staff has ABSOLUTELY NO understanding of 
<snipped>

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Oooooh! I LOVE waltzing in hoop skirts! It's FUN! If you visit Dickens Fair,
they have tons of people doing just that all day long. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 6:12 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

 
In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a waltz in that. 


****************
 
 
Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the  period.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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In a message dated 10/7/2007 4:44:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

http://used.addall.com/
http://www.addall.com/



I've had several disappointments with addall.  Got all excited and  then the 
book wasn't available after all.  Never had that happen using  abe.
 
Ann Wass



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Again, not my statement. 

De

-----Original Message-----
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> 
> Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to
> dance a waltz in that. 
> 
>


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 17:51:29 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Interesting.  I've had that happen on both, and I would think the  
incidence would be the same for both, as they're both simply  
searching through other peoples' inventories.  I don't think addall  
or abebooks has any control over whether people actually have the  
books they're listing.

It's a risk I'm happy to take, as these services make it so much  
easier, in general, to find the OOP books I always seem to be seeking.

Melanie Schuessler


On Oct 7, 2007, at 5:30 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 10/7/2007 4:44:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> melanie@faucet.net writes:
>
> http://used.addall.com/
> http://www.addall.com/
>
>
>
> I've had several disappointments with addall.  Got all excited and   
> then the
> book wasn't available after all.  Never had that happen using  abe.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http:// 
> www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

Hello everyone,
I don't really post to this list very often but I was wondering if anyone
had any ideas on what I could breate out of a bedding set I have, it's a
Green Satin King Siz set.  I've already used the sheets to make a simple
kirtle.  My problem is that I'm not exactly sure what to make out of it.
Not only is it satin, but its quilted in sort of a strange way, I cannot
find pictures and I would take one, but an aquaintance has my camera at the
moment. The quilting is all symmetrical, in straight lines, but intead of
being noral quiltingit has some of it sticking up on some of the seams, I'm
not really sure how to perscribe it. I have a comforter, pillow cases and
curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in a
medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
you.....



*=B4=A8)
=B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

ABE and Alibris are services various booksellers, and even random 
individuals, can join to sell books; they pay ABE and Alibris for this 
service.  I looked into the terms of both a couple of years ago when my 
mother died and left me her large personal library (most of which, 
however, is still sitting exactly as she left it). As I recall, at the 
time ABE only charged a percentage of sales, but Alibris charged a 
listing fee whether the book ever sold or not.

Addall.com and Addall.com/used are meta-search services.  Addall.com is 
the new book search service--but see below.  Addall.com/used lists all 
the offerings of ABE, ALIBRIS, ILAB, and a couple of European 
ABE/ALIBRIS-like services. For whatever reason, Addall.com/used also 
lists many brand-new books; some of which, particularly books from 
foreign booksellers, are not listed in the "new" Addall.com at all.

Listings in Addall.com are not weeded out for source duplication. You 
may notice--especially if you are looking for an unusual book in used 
condition, where few copies are available and descriptions of condition 
are very detailed--as many as four different listings for the exact same 
copy of the same title.  Furthermore, the prices for duplicate listings 
vary slightly depending on the fees of services like ABE, etc. that are 
being meta-searched (the seller lists the book price and if there's an 
extra fee, they just tack it on).  For foreign purchases, the currency 
conversions may vary.

Bookfinder, once M-X Bookfinder, is an older service with search 
features that I think are no longer as good/sophisticated as Addall's, 
and usually with no larger selection.

ABE, Alibris, etc. only make sellers guarantee that a certain PERCENTAGE 
of titles listed are actually available. This is because many of the 
sellers also run bookstores; and so a customer might well walk in and 
buy a title before the online order is placed, or before the online 
database has been updated.

Amazon Marketplace makes sellers guarantee copies are actually 
immediately available, but many of them pay no attention to the rule.  A 
lot of the big Amazon Marketplace, and a few eBay, sellers of new books 
just upload a major wholesaler database (which the major wholesalers 
provide to bookstores).  This composes their huge listings of books.  If 
anyone buys a book, they just back-order it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> For finding books online, also try
> 
> http://used.addall.com/
> http://www.addall.com/
> http://www.bookfinder.com/
> 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com, Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
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Status: RO

On Sunday 07 October 2007, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> Interesting.  I've had that happen on both, and I would think the
> incidence would be the same for both, as they're both simply
> searching through other peoples' inventories.  I don't think addall
> or abebooks has any control over whether people actually have the
> books they're listing.

That's true. 

I can believe, however that the incidence of "ooops, sold alreadys" might be 
higher on addall because addall reports results from a number of different 
engines as well as book stores; addall searches abe, for example.  So some of 
the information addall is searching is two removes from the data it has (one 
remove because it's on abes, and the second remove because abe reports books 
on sale from many different stores in different countries).  

I like addall because it allows me to search most places I have a chance of 
making a hit at once, and it lets me find items that abe doesn't necessarily 
have.   I do note, however, that bookfinder.com often has stuff from European 
stores that addall does not have.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Thanks, Fran, for explaining the differences in the various book finding  
sites and how they work.
 
Ann Wass



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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Status: RO

Danielle M. Dewey wrote:
>  I have a comforter, pillow cases and
> curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in a
> medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
> you.....
> 


I honestly can't think of anything medieval that would be made in green 
quilted satin. However, if you're willing to consider fantasy styling, 
there are a couple patterns that might work:

Butterick 4050
http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/10000/itm_img/B4050.jpg

It might also work well on a man's fantasy tunic like Simplicity 4942.
http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4942/4942.jpg

Finally, have a look at Folkwear. They have a few coat patterns and 
other more modern era clothing items that you might like in green satin.
http://www.folkwear.com/patternindex.html



Dawn



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Status: RO

Might make a nice 18th c quilted petticoat...
Sarah
----- Original Message ----- 

 I have a comforter, pillow cases and
curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in a
medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
you.....



*´¨)
¸.·´¸.·´¨) ¸.·*¨).
(¸.·´ (¸.·´ .·´
.·´ ¸.·*`·~»*~Danielle~*»~
(¸.·´
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes .... A video of hooped
	women waltzing here.....
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Status: RO

here's a website that hold Victorian Ball about 4 x's a yr. 
  http://www.lahacal.org/film/waltz.html
  there  is a video on the addy of "the Merry Widow Waltz"  showing women waltzing with hoops of all sizes, this is my favorite web video to watch, it's like being transported in time...
    Melody

Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote:
  
--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> 
> Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to
> dance a waltz in that. 
> 
> **************** 
> 
> Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the 
> period.

In the 1860s, when hoops were worn, waltzes and polkas
and schottisches were all danced, vigorously.

I, myself, while wearing my hoopskirts, have lead
other women in a full-turning waltz more than once. :)


So even a modern person, who does not wear hoops very
often, can waltz with little to no trouble in hoops.


Hoops are a bit like lampshades, though--if you move
one side down, the other is very likely to fly up.

Ann in CT



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:13:23 -0700
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Status: RO

Mine is a modern one and I have no problems. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 10:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

Actually, a lot of the maneuverability issues depend on whether you're using
a modern substitute hoop that has circular hoops all the way around
suspended in a drawstring petticoat, or if you have a more accurate cage
crinoline which a) shifts the weight of the skirts to the back and b) more
importantly, has a "break" in the hooping along the front.  That "gap" (for
lack of a better word) is the key to maneuverability in a hoop--you can sit,
you can dance, you can do LOTS of things when the gap is there that become
cumbersome when it isn't.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 6:11 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes



  In a message dated 10/6/2007 1:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
  otsisto@socket.net<mailto:otsisto@socket.net> writes:

  Not one  of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a
  waltz in that. 


  ****************
   
   
  Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the  period.



  ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. 
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:01:35 -0500
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Status: RO

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=106
Click on the little picture and a new screen comes up, click on that picture
and another screen which will allow you to enlarge a bit more then the
wikipedia and a bit clearer. From the left of the skirt it appears to be
appliqué with embroidery for tacking down the edges and details. This would
make sense to have the appliqué instead of reverse appliqué as the use of
scrapes was more frugal then cutting out a piece so that the background
shows through. I had seen one painting with what appears to be reverse
appliqué but the cutout pieces was used on the garment elsewhere.

De

-----Original Message-----
> It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert.  Also,
> the second red "stripe" - it looks to me like it's been laid over the
damask
> and "reverse appliqued" (design cut out of the red and stitched rather
than
> the yellow being applied on top of the red).  What do you think?  It's a
> beautiful gown and hope to see pics of the finished product.

The gold on these gowns typically depict a gold brocade. As in the
metal not a shade of yellow, which is why I tend to go for the damasks
bordered in velvet much easier to find good modern alternatives.

A reverse applique would be very wasteful of fabric especially in a
tiem where the bulk of the cost of a garment was in the material not
the making.
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bild:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._038.jpg
If you click to get to the larger image you'll see the pattern inside
the scroll work on the red is deliberate and made to fit the scrolls.
I've been hunting for a clearer image but can't  find one tonight.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:21:43 -0700
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Status: RO

"Dangerous Liaisons" ISBN# 9-780300-107142 (I'm not sure if the "9" is part
of the number. The others are the ones under the barcode, the "9" is to the
left of the barcode.) This is a book with photos of the Metropolitan Museum
of Art's display of 18th century fashions, set on dummies doing what they
would have been really doing in those days, set in period rooms. Beautiful!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 1:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Cc: SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations

Gentles of the List,
   I have a young grand-daughter who has become deeply interested in 18th C
high-status European fashions after seeing the most-recently-mdae
"Cinderella" film.
  As a Christmas Present, my Lady and I would like to give our
grand-daughter a couple of profusely-illustrated reference books about 18th
C. Fashions as "starters" for a personal reference library for her new
interest.
   18th C. European fashions are not a subject I have had any reason to
research - [though I DO know the military history in considerable depth],
and I have no reference Base to help me.
  Would Members of the List be good enough to make Book suggestions to help
us pruchase a couple of sutiable reference books for our grand-daughter?
   
   Julian Wilson,
  dwelling in "old" Jersey,
  [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker, a veteran soldier of the late 15thC.]. 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:38:24 -0500
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Status: RO

Again, 1830s gowns did not have the hoops and crinolines, the fullness came
from the petticoats a few may have had horse hair tap or cording around the
hem.
The 1830s were refered to as the Jacksonian era.

Have not used these patterns
http://www.pastpatterns.com/008.html
http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html


Someone who will sew for you or patterns (have not used these people).
http://www.customvestments.com/

Women's underpinnings (note: no hoops or crinolines)
http://www.customvestments.com/womensundergarments.html

1830s based movie (costumes)Onegin
http://www.costumersguide.com/onegin/green3.jpg
http://www.costumersguide.com/onegin/green2.jpg
red dress
http://www.costumersguide.com/fashioninfilm/onegin1.jpg
http://www.costumersguide.com/onegin/orange2.jpg
http://www.costumersguide.com/onegin/orange4.jpg

This is not saying the these are authentic but it is to show the look. I
know that you have decided to do a later period but you need to put the two
styles together to see if they meld or look down right odd.

De


-----Original Message-----
De:
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

Thanks for all those links. They are wonderful, but they don't have
patterns. They help me for _his_ suit, in particular

http://www.fancyephemera.com/historicalfashion.html#1830sbeau

and

http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm (the two gentlemen's
coats, in particular the red one).

Now, where can I get patterns for that time? For a mans' suit?

For myself, I'm taking Cynthia's advice, no indeed, we don't have to match.

A good hint I found on one wedding website: I have to make sure that
the wedding dress will fit into a suitcase. So, cage crinolines and
most hoop skirts are out of the question!

That said, there is another style that interests me -- and that's
Dior-ish or similar. .

And I've now placed a bid on a dress form! I've found one that seems
to fit my measurements!

Lucky that in Germany, we don't have bridemaids.

:-)

Barbara M aren


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In a message dated 10/7/2007 5:52:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

I don't  think addall  
or abebooks has any control over whether people  actually have the  
books they're listing.



I think addall has a bigger 'reach' but I've never personally been  
disappointed at abe.  But, again, the only "damage" if a book isn't  available is 
getting your hopes up briefly!  Not quite the same as  the dealer who evidently 
jacks up the prices.  However, remember,  something is only worth what someone is 
willing to pay for it.
 
I must admit, I think I've gotten some good buys from dealers in used  books 
because my particular request wasn't their specialty, but they just  happened 
to acquire it somehow.  In that case, I figure we both make  out.  I don't 
think I've ever actually "stolen" anything.
 
Ann Wass 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com, Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for 18th C Costume Book recommendations
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 18:36:43 -0400
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On Sunday 07 October 2007, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> Interesting.  I've had that happen on both, and I would think the
> incidence would be the same for both, as they're both simply
> searching through other peoples' inventories.  I don't think addall
> or abebooks has any control over whether people actually have the
> books they're listing.

That's true. 

I can believe, however that the incidence of "ooops, sold alreadys" might be 
higher on addall because addall reports results from a number of different 
engines as well as book stores; addall searches abe, for example.  So some of 
the information addall is searching is two removes from the data it has (one 
remove because it's on abes, and the second remove because abe reports books 
on sale from many different stores in different countries).  

I like addall because it allows me to search most places I have a chance of 
making a hit at once, and it lets me find items that abe doesn't necessarily 
have.   I do note, however, that bookfinder.com often has stuff from European 
stores that addall does not have.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 22:12:07 -0400
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes .... A video of
	hoopedwomen waltzing here.....
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I was one of the founders of the Social Daunse Irregulars.  My photo is 
still hidden away on their webpage.  Period waltzing certainly can be done 
in hoops.  The clothing was worn when the dance was created!  Not so sure 
about modern show waltzing.

Ron Carnegie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melody Watts" <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes .... A video of 
hoopedwomen waltzing here.....


> here's a website that hold Victorian Ball about 4 x's a yr.
>  http://www.lahacal.org/film/waltz.html
>  there  is a video on the addy of "the Merry Widow Waltz"  showing women 
> waltzing with hoops of all sizes, this is my favorite web video to watch, 
> it's like being transported in time...
>    Melody
>
> Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
>> otsisto@socket.net writes:
>>
>> Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to
>> dance a waltz in that.
>>
>> ****************
>>
>> Well, they waltzed quite a lot in hoops in the
>> period.
>
> In the 1860s, when hoops were worn, waltzes and polkas
> and schottisches were all danced, vigorously.
>
> I, myself, while wearing my hoopskirts, have lead
> other women in a full-turning waltz more than once. :)
>
>
> So even a modern person, who does not wear hoops very
> often, can waltz with little to no trouble in hoops.
>
>
> Hoops are a bit like lampshades, though--if you move
> one side down, the other is very likely to fly up.
>
> Ann in CT
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
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Status: RO

Ooo, lookit the one that's two down from Katharina... it's black with
a gold-coloured placket and all those PEARLS!!!  I want to make that
one... the hat's a little wacky, but oh wow, the black--is that
velvet?  Pearl work all down the sides, and more beading on the gold
top of the placket...  Yum...  :)

Meli


De wrote:

-------------------
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=3D11507&Empnum=3D0&Inicio=3D106
Click on the little picture and a new screen comes up, click on that pictur=
e
and another screen which will allow you to enlarge a bit more then the
wikipedia and a bit clearer. From the left of the skirt it appears to be
appliqu=E9 with embroidery for tacking down the edges and details. This wou=
ld
make sense to have the appliqu=E9 instead of reverse appliqu=E9 as the use =
of
scrapes was more frugal then cutting out a piece so that the background
shows through. I had seen one painting with what appears to be reverse
appliqu=E9 but the cutout pieces was used on the garment elsewhere.
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <b49a69920710071926q210a240bt51365a6b70c9c5f3@mail.gmail.com>
In-Reply-To: <b49a69920710071926q210a240bt51365a6b70c9c5f3@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another German Gown
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 22:02:50 -0500
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Status: RO

OMG ... those GLOVES!!!!

That is a super super super fine leather ..... if it is real and not =
just an
artist interpretation. Hmmmm .... Does anyone know of an inventory of
costumes and accessories for Katharina?

Chiara Francesca

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Sharon Henderson
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 9:27 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Another German Gown

Ooo, lookit the one that's two down from Katharina... it's black with
a gold-coloured placket and all those PEARLS!!!  I want to make that
one... the hat's a little wacky, but oh wow, the black--is that
velvet?  Pearl work all down the sides, and more beading on the gold
top of the placket...  Yum...  :)

Meli


De wrote:

-------------------
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=3D11507&Empnum=3D0&Inicio=3D106
Click on the little picture and a new screen comes up, click on that =
picture
and another screen which will allow you to enlarge a bit more then the
wikipedia and a bit clearer. From the left of the skirt it appears to be
appliqu=E9 with embroidery for tacking down the edges and details. This =
would
make sense to have the appliqu=E9 instead of reverse appliqu=E9 as the =
use of
scrapes was more frugal then cutting out a piece so that the background
shows through. I had seen one painting with what appears to be reverse
appliqu=E9 but the cutout pieces was used on the garment elsewhere.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another German Gown
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 02:01:08 -0500
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Status: RO

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=91
Scroll down to portrait of a woman. look at all the slash work and white
gloves.

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=61
Scroll down to Salomé con la cabeza de San Juan Bautista #12 I can't tell if
it is lace or pearlwork or both.
Love the sleeves.

De

-----Original Message-----
OMG ... those GLOVES!!!!

That is a super super super fine leather ..... if it is real and not just an
artist interpretation. Hmmmm .... Does anyone know of an inventory of
costumes and accessories for Katharina?

Chiara Francesca



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ideas
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 02:16:57 -0500
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Status: RO

Maybe a Persian coat?
Can you remove the quilting without leaving marks or permanent stitch holes?
With satin, you are looking more at Renaissance fudging then Medieval,
especially shiny satin. Your also looking at winter attire with this satin
as it does not breath. Plus you should not make anything out of it that you
will want to wear around a fire.
If you are in SCA or similar group and if you have a coat of arms the has
green in it you could use the satin for heraldic display stuff.
Though it would not be material of the 1300s and 1400s, you could make a
sideless surcoat. Could use it for a cloak lining. Or you could make a
Florentine giornea and/or gammurra
http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/florentine.html

De

-----Original Message-----
I've already used the sheets to make a simple
kirtle.  My problem is that I'm not exactly sure what to make out of it.
Not only is it satin, but its quilted in sort of a strange way, I cannot
find pictures and I would take one, but an aquaintance has my camera at the
moment. The quilting is all symmetrical, in straight lines, but intead of
being noral quiltingit has some of it sticking up on some of the seams, I'm
not really sure how to perscribe it. I have a comforter, pillow cases and
curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in a
medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
you.....



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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown
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Status: RO

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/5/01duke.html
Katharina again in an even better view.

> http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=3D11507&Empnum=3D0&Inicio=3D61
> Scroll down to Salom=E9 con la cabeza de San Juan Bautista #12 I can't te=
ll if
> it is lace or pearlwork or both.
> Love the sleeves.

Given the way lace developed it is highly unlikely to be lace (It was
still rather geometric even in the later 16thC and delicate foliate
designs, as opposed to scrolling foliate, are later still). Also the
Germans were rather less fond of lace than the English, French,
Lowlanders, Spanish and Italians. What little you see later tends to
be understated.

> That is a super super super fine leather ..... if it is real and not just=
 an
> artist interpretation. Hmmmm .... Does anyone know of an inventory of
> costumes and accessories for Katharina?
Not just artistic licence:
http://pintura.aut.org/SearchProducto?Produnum=3D132982

But Cranach did tend to be a little creative with his art. Sometimes
the rings under the glove  sit higher on the finger than a ring over
the glove.


Ah Pintura. I keep forgetting you despite the many hours I have spent
wasting bandwidth over you.

Michaela
http://gtlittersweet.com
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISBN, was 18th century costume book
References: <200710080215.l982EjNN029263@net.indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sharon Collier wrote:

>"Dangerous Liaisons" ISBN# 9-780300-107142 (I'm not sure if the "9" is =
part
>of the number.

It is. The new 13-digit ISBNs all start with 978.=20

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes, it is. It's a company that specializes on drafting patterns, modern, of course, and they sell a magazine which includes a pattern drafting section. The magazines are two: "Damenrundschau" and "Herrenrundschau". They publish books that collect the articles in the magazines, sorted by topic, like "Dresses", "Coats", and "Historical patterns - for men" and "Historical patterns - for women". I think the men's historical patterns are better, they include more patterns. But I've just glanced through, I don't have them, but am going to order them.

The point is that you need to know how to make the basic dress sloper. That's explained once in a few years in the magazines or, it's in a separate book called "Kleider und Blusen". But that one costs around 100 euros and there are many modern garments, variations of dresses and such. 

It is a very good drafting method that they use, the best and most detailed one I've tried. You've got to learn quite a lot of thinks at the beginning to understand it, but when you get into it it's quite ok.

Unfortunately, they don't have any real webpage, so the only thing I could do for you is to scan what they offer and the ordering card (but I believe you can order by mail too).

Here's some information:

http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67

I think Fran from Lavolta Press has it, so you can ask her for her opinion, I don't know how much was she able to use it as, I think, she didn't have any information on how to do the sloper.

Zuzana

P.S.: All the publications are in German but you can do without the text. The only thing you have to understand is the sloper and you can get someone translate it for you - that's for all others who read this, as I believe that Bjarne can speak German...



Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: Do you have a title and ISBN nr.?
Seems to be a very interresting book!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown


> If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical 
> costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the 
> top, sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three 
> possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I 
> haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and 
> usually lead to a good solution:-)
>
> It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting 
> magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting 
> instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th 
> century.
>
>
>
> Beteena Paradise  wrote: I already have the 
> Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so 
> much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the 
> pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get 
> Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
>
>  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by 
> sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or 
> regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight 
> between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton 
> velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking 
> of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and 
> then do one in the grander fabrics.
>
> Amy Cooper
> wrote:
>
> Have you given any thought to patterns yet?
>
> -Amy
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Status: RO

Though this is allegorical and Cranach tends to have fanciful stuff, it
doesn't explain the "lacy" stuff under the left arm. The hemd is painted to
be very sheer and there looks to be something very sheer under the forearm
but the angle of the white speckle could be pearlwork on a sheer material or
maybe the floral lace was made in this era.
I have other garments to analyze so this one is on the back burner for now.

De

-----Original Message-----
> http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=61
> Scroll down to Salomé con la cabeza de San Juan Bautista #12 I can't tell
if
> it is lace or pearlwork or both.
> Love the sleeves.

Given the way lace developed it is highly unlikely to be lace (It was
still rather geometric even in the later 16thC and delicate foliate
designs, as opposed to scrolling foliate, are later still). Also the
Germans were rather less fond of lace than the English, French,
Lowlanders, Spanish and Italians. What little you see later tends to
be understated.



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Status: RO

Sylrog asked:

<I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to make copies for you or 
<are they walking around policing people to see what they are making 
<copies of by themselves?

Yes, I have seen Kinkos staff snooping around.  More often, I've seen a customer ask for help with a machine, and the staffer asks just what they want to do.  (This is an entirely proper question, as you often can't tell what settings to use if you don't know what the desired result is.) So the customer shows the staffer what they want to copy, and then the staffer decrees that the customer would be violating copyright and shoos the customer out the door.  The problem is that Kinkos' interpretation of Fair Use has almost always been wrong, when I've been observing.

As for my own experiences, the color copy problem happened back in the days when they didn't have color copiers for public use, you had to have them do it.  The problem with my b&w copies for insurance documentation was that the size of the originals required the use of the extra-large platen machine.  This, again, was not for general public use.  Believe me, knowing Kinkos' ignorance, I would NEVER have asked them to make any copy I could do myself!

It may just be that management in my region has a bug up its butt, and this policy isn't nationwide.

Mary Piero Carey


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 479
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:41:43 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

As I said in a previous posting, Kinko's got into MAJOR copyright- 
violation trouble ten or so years ago and since then their policy has  
been Extreme Vigilance, to the point of absurdity. If you have  
something other than your own typescript or your own drawings to  
copy, go somewhere else.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 8, 2007, at 9:30 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:

> Sylrog asked:
>
> <I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to make copies for you  
> or <are they walking around policing people to see what they are  
> making <copies of by themselves?
>
> Yes, I have seen Kinkos staff snooping around.  More often, I've  
> seen a customer ask for help with a machine, and the staffer asks  
> just what they want to do.  (This is an entirely proper question,  
> as you often can't tell what settings to use if you don't know what  
> the desired result is.) So the customer shows the staffer what they  
> want to copy, and then the staffer decrees that the customer would  
> be violating copyright and shoos the customer out the door.  The  
> problem is that Kinkos' interpretation of Fair Use has almost  
> always been wrong, when I've been observing.
>
> As for my own experiences, the color copy problem happened back in  
> the days when they didn't have color copiers for public use, you  
> had to have them do it.  The problem with my b&w copies for  
> insurance documentation was that the size of the originals required  
> the use of the extra-large platen machine.  This, again, was not  
> for general public use.  Believe me, knowing Kinkos' ignorance, I  
> would NEVER have asked them to make any copy I could do myself!
>
> It may just be that management in my region has a bug up its butt,  
> and this policy isn't nationwide.
>
> Mary Piero Carey
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <74848.95808.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
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Status: RO

Page 8 of this pdf document looks promising.  It is pretty small, but I bet 
you the first 3 are what you are looking for.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

>
> Here's some information:
>
> http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67 

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown
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Status: RO

Yeah, that gown has been on my to-do list for a while. It's stunning!

Sharon Henderson <henderson.sharon@gmail.com> wrote:  Ooo, lookit the one that's two down from Katharina... it's black with
a gold-coloured placket and all those PEARLS!!! I want to make that
one... the hat's a little wacky, but oh wow, the black--is that
velvet? Pearl work all down the sides, and more beading on the gold
top of the placket... Yum... :)

Meli

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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 12:08:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
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Status: RO


     Another used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction branch
of e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we
listmembers like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where
people unload books for $2 to $10 or so, and they have good
descriptions for condition.

     -Carol

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Status: RO

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      Another used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction branch
> of e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we
> listmembers like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where
> people unload books for $2 to $10 or so, and they have good
> descriptions for condition.

Speaking of which, right now is prime-time for costume books on Ebay. 
With Halloween coming up a lot of sellers who might not otherwise bother 
are listing all kinds of costume and clothing titles. It's the best 
selection of the year, for used costume books.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
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Status: RO

You might also go through alibris.com. They go through major book
searches, and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Arlys

On Mon, 8 Oct 2007 12:08:51 -0400 (EDT) aquazoo@patriot.net writes:
> 
>      Another used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction 
> branch
> of e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we
> listmembers like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where
> people unload books for $2 to $10 or so, and they have good
> descriptions for condition.
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


Hi,
  I dont mean to inturrupts but..
  If you need help with the captions nd such,I spent 5 years in German schools and though I 'm no official trnsltor,and it hs been  while, Id love to help.
  Bambi

Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Page 8 of this pdf document looks promising. It is pretty small, but I bet 
you the first 3 are what you are looking for.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

>
> Here's some information:
>
> http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67 

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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride!!!!
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
       
---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
 Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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Status: RO

I'm looking for a copy of an article by Janet Arnold.  The reference is:

 

Arnold, J., "Elizabethan and Jacobean smocks and shirts", Waffenund
Kostumkunde, Pt. 2 (1977), pp 89-110.  

 

Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this article?  

 

Thanks!

 

Sandy Toscano

 

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Status: RO

Quoting Sandy Toscano <jimandsandytoscano@comcast.net>:

> I'm looking for a copy of an article by Janet Arnold.  The reference is:
>
>
>
> Arnold, J., "Elizabethan and Jacobean smocks and shirts", Waffenund
> Kostumkunde, Pt. 2 (1977), pp 89-110.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this article?
>

Your library should be able to get it for you via InterLibrary Loan.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another German Gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEIBJJAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO

I haven't been able to get into this site all morning.
I think I know which picture you're talking about, 
but I can't tell! Could someone send me a .jpg of it
directly?

MaggiRos
--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Though this is allegorical and Cranach tends to have
> fanciful stuff, it
> doesn't explain the "lacy" stuff under the left arm.
> The hemd is painted to
> be very sheer and there looks to be something very
> sheer under the forearm
> but the angle of the white speckle could be
> pearlwork on a sheer material or
> maybe the floral lace was made in this era.
> I have other garments to analyze so this one is on
> the back burner for now.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> >
>
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=61
> > Scroll down to Salomï¿½ con la cabeza de San Juan
> Bautista #12 I can't tell
> if
> > it is lace or pearlwork or both.
> > Love the sleeves.
> 
> Given the way lace developed it is highly unlikely
> to be lace (It was
> still rather geometric even in the later 16thC and
> delicate foliate
> designs, as opposed to scrolling foliate, are later
> still). Also the
> Germans were rather less fond of lace than the
> English, French,
> Lowlanders, Spanish and Italians. What little you
> see later tends to
> be understated.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] cranach gown
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Status: RO

I'll rather send this to all so that everyone who is interested can order something. Here:

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf  

is a list of things they offer, and there should be all information necessary for the order. The first two books are the ones that come in question, and the "Kleider and Blusen" book for the sloper (they claim there is one, so let's hope they're right).Anyway, I can give you this necessary "sloper" information myself, so that you have something to start with. Just contact me privately:-)

I've called them and asked whether there was any additional information (like sloper) for the men's historical patterns necessary, and they told me no. So no need to order anything more for the men's patterns. (Actually, I wouldn't be too sure about this, but as soon as I get this book I'll let you know - I should get it till the end of October, but I hope it'll come sooner:-))

It's all in German, unfortunately, BUT as I said, you won't need it much... I don't read the texts either...even though they are interesting, but I wouldn't say necessary. You only have to understand the basics, but then it's ok... Anyway, Bambi said she would be so kind and translate something, if you needed it, and you can ask me too, but since I'm not an English native speaker, I'll never be so good:-)

Zuzana



       
---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! 
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another German Gown
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 14:57:39 -0500
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Status: RO

I seem to be having problems as well. I'll see if it is on another site. In
the mean time found this
http://worldart.sjsu.edu/VieO4319$18982*2454744

As for the black w/pearls, a large clearer image
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=23244

Found it
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=23232

http://tinyurl.com/22skb2

-----Original Message-----
I haven't been able to get into this site all morning.
I think I know which picture you're talking about,
but I can't tell! Could someone send me a .jpg of it
directly?

MaggiRos
--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Though this is allegorical and Cranach tends to have
> fanciful stuff, it
> doesn't explain the "lacy" stuff under the left arm.
> The hemd is painted to
> be very sheer and there looks to be something very
> sheer under the forearm
> but the angle of the white speckle could be
> pearlwork on a sheer material or
> maybe the floral lace was made in this era.
> I have other garments to analyze so this one is on
> the back burner for now.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >
>
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=61
> > Scroll down to Salomï¿½ con la cabeza de San Juan
> Bautista #12 I can't tell
> if
> > it is lace or pearlwork or both.
> > Love the sleeves.
>
> Given the way lace developed it is highly unlikely
> to be lace (It was
> still rather geometric even in the later 16thC and
> delicate foliate
> designs, as opposed to scrolling foliate, are later
> still). Also the
> Germans were rather less fond of lace than the
> English, French,
> Lowlanders, Spanish and Italians. What little you
> see later tends to
> be understated.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 18:05:50 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/8/2007 11:54:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

Another  used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction branch
of  e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we
listmembers  like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where
people unload  books for $2 to $10 or so, and they have good
descriptions for  condition.



And this is the one where I've suffered the most disappointment of listed  
books' not being available.
 
Ann Wass



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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:38:20 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I prefer to buy from dealers I know, but usually it's just combing  
through the stock and seeing if there's anything interesting. I'll  
still ask if they can find something they don't have in stock,  
usually waiting until I decide I can't live without it anymore.

In that case, I've used Amazon marketplace with good results.

I still:
1. review the seller feedback.
2. check where the seller is located.
3. see if the seller has any other web presence.

If possible I'll spend a bit more to go with a seller that's within  
easy driving distance, should there be a problem with the book not  
matching the description and quality listing.

andy
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 12:47:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 479
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes but the question is, if you're copying out of a
book or magazine, does someone come around and stop
you?

MaggiRos

--- Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
wrote:

> As I said in a previous posting, Kinko's got into
> MAJOR copyright- 
> violation trouble ten or so years ago and since then
> their policy has  
> been Extreme Vigilance, to the point of absurdity.
> If you have  
> something other than your own typescript or your own
> drawings to  
> copy, go somewhere else.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> On Oct 8, 2007, at 9:30 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey
> wrote:
> 
> > Sylrog asked:
> >
> > <I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to
> make copies for you  
> > or <are they walking around policing people to see
> what they are  
> > making <copies of by themselves?
> >

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
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Status: RO

Personally, when I want a rare antiquarian book where an expert vendor 
describes every nuance of the condition in paragraphs of detail, I go to 
an antiquarian bookseller (and one with a return policy, though I never 
order anything unless I'm sure I want it, so I very rarely return 
anything).  There are a couple of associations of same who define terms, 
and have guidelines for members who are listing books. See:

http://www.abaa.org/cgi-bin/abaa/abaapages/glossary.html
http://www.ioba.org/desc.html
http://www.rbms.info/yob.shtml

When I want serendipitous finds at a wide range of prices, I go to eBay. 
    Well, actually, I spend a couple of hours every day browsing eBay. 
I'm doing it even as I write this e-mail.  For modern books I always buy 
in new condition wherever possible. But if the book is out of print and 
I have to buy a used copy, I look at Addall/used before Amazon 
Marketplace.  That's because most of the booksellers whose merchandise 
is listed on Addall are pros.

The one thing I don't do, is expect an amateur, nonspecialist vendor to 
give me the same service as a specialist, only cheaper. It's 
unreasonable and fruitless to expect random eBay or Marketplace sellers 
just trying to unload the contents of their personal library, or their 
grandmother's attic, to have spent the years that pros spend learning 
about their merchandise. When I buy on eBay, as long as they send the 
item and it is not really, grossly, different from the listing, I take 
what I get without complaint. I've been going to auctions since 
childhood, and that's what auctions are all about. It's a form of 
gambling, only at least you get something or other for your money even 
when you "lose." Also, I've spent a great deal of time gaining expertise 
myself, so I don't have to rely on the vendors so much.

I also don't expect a used book to be in the same condition as a new 
one, only cheaper. If it's in used condition, I expect it to reflect that.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Andrew T Trembley wrote:

> I prefer to buy from dealers I know, but usually it's just combing  
> through the stock and seeing if there's anything interesting. I'll  
> still ask if they can find something they don't have in stock,  usually 
> waiting until I decide I can't live without it anymore.
> 
> In that case, I've used Amazon marketplace with good results.
> 
> I still:
> 1. review the seller feedback.
> 2. check where the seller is located.
> 3. see if the seller has any other web presence.
> 
> If possible I'll spend a bit more to go with a seller that's within  
> easy driving distance, should there be a problem with the book not  
> matching the description and quality listing.
> 
> andy

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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown
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Status: RO

> The hemd is painted to be very sheer and there looks to be something very sheer under the forearm

I'm not sure that it is. It looks more like there was a belt
originally that was painted over. The curve matches the way he painted
them in other artworks.

> but the angle of the white speckle could be pearlwork on a sheer material or
> maybe the floral lace was made in this era.

http://www.costumes.org/History/100pages/18THLACE.HTM
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~spok/metabook/oilace.html
That latter is just for Italian laces but it does have lots of extant examples.

It may well have been overpainted at a later date.


Chranach was churning these ladies out like nobodies business it seems
because they were a good seller. This one is a particularly rushed job
compared to some of his finer more carefully painted figures.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another German Gown
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 20:44:25 -0500
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Status: RO

discusssion picture
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=23232

It might be lace. This sort of looks like a possibility
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/renaissance/lace/7.gif
though it is not German.
It is also 1598 so yes it's a far reach. :)


-----Original Message-----
> The hemd is painted to be very sheer and there looks to be something very
sheer under the forearm

I'm not sure that it is. It looks more like there was a belt
originally that was painted over. The curve matches the way he painted
them in other artworks.

> but the angle of the white speckle could be pearlwork on a sheer material
or
> maybe the floral lace was made in this era.

http://www.costumes.org/History/100pages/18THLACE.HTM
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~spok/metabook/oilace.html
That latter is just for Italian laces but it does have lots of extant
examples.

Cranach was churning these ladies out like nobodies business it seems
because they were a good seller. This one is a particularly rushed job
compared to some of his finer more carefully painted figures.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
_______________________________________________


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 479
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:21:13 -0400
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Status: RO

The only jobs my truelove and I have tried to take to Kinko's have  
been oversized paper or color xeroxing, and for both we had to go to  
the desk and ask someone to do the copying for us....precipitating  
horrified refusals (see my earlier post for details). We don't go in  
there anymore--we go to a small but competent copy center owned by  
local people who DO understand fair use. So I can't tell you if my  
local Kinko's has people patrolling. But I'd suspect that, patrols or  
not, if they happened to notice someone copying out of a magazine or  
other bound object they'd step in. I imagine other people have more  
extensive experience with Kinko's and can comment more definitively.
--Ruth Anne

On Oct 8, 2007, at 3:47 PM, MaggiRos wrote:

> Yes but the question is, if you're copying out of a
> book or magazine, does someone come around and stop
> you?
>
> MaggiRos
>
> --- Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
> wrote:
>
>> As I said in a previous posting, Kinko's got into
>> MAJOR copyright-
>> violation trouble ten or so years ago and since then
>> their policy has
>> been Extreme Vigilance, to the point of absurdity.
>> If you have
>> something other than your own typescript or your own
>> drawings to
>> copy, go somewhere else.
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>> On Oct 8, 2007, at 9:30 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sylrog asked:
>>>
>>> <I'm a bit confused.  Are you asking Kinkos to
>> make copies for you
>>> or <are they walking around policing people to see
>> what they are
>>> making <copies of by themselves?
>>>
>
> Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The
> village was burning when we got here.
>
> Anon.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
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Status: RO

A persian coat might work.  It is a fairly thick comforter it would be
warm.  It is a little shiny though.  I just know I am never going to use it
again as a bedspread and thought I could put it to use.


Well thank you for the ideas, and if anyone thinks of anything else by all
means please share

*=B4=A8)
=B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
.

On 10/8/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>
> Maybe a Persian coat?
> Can you remove the quilting without leaving marks or permanent stitch
> holes?
> With satin, you are looking more at Renaissance fudging then Medieval,
> especially shiny satin. Your also looking at winter attire with this sati=
n
> as it does not breath. Plus you should not make anything out of it that
> you
> will want to wear around a fire.
> If you are in SCA or similar group and if you have a coat of arms the has
> green in it you could use the satin for heraldic display stuff.
> Though it would not be material of the 1300s and 1400s, you could make a
> sideless surcoat. Could use it for a cloak lining. Or you could make a
> Florentine giornea and/or gammurra
> http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/florentine.html
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I've already used the sheets to make a simple
> kirtle.  My problem is that I'm not exactly sure what to make out of it.
> Not only is it satin, but its quilted in sort of a strange way, I cannot
> find pictures and I would take one, but an aquaintance has my camera at
> the
> moment. The quilting is all symmetrical, in straight lines, but intead of
> being noral quiltingit has some of it sticking up on some of the seams,
> I'm
> not really sure how to perscribe it. I have a comforter, pillow cases and
> curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in a
> medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
> you.....
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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--=20
*=B4=A8)
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(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEEIFJIAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<415974.82012.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 00:40:31 -0400
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Status: RO

Just out of curiosity would his name be Richard Collins?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 5:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Valuation of collection

I have a friend who is both a lawyer and a costumed
weirdo like the rest of us. He practices here in
California, but he might be able to provide some
guidance. Contact information available on request.

MaggiRos


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Who licenses or acts as an agent for textile designs
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Status: RO

A publisher friend of mine wants to find someone to license and market, 
for mass manufacture, many years' worth of batik designs, only a small 
number of which are represented on:

http://www.alicewalkerbatik.com/Gallery/

Personally, I want the butterfly design on a velvet cape (a real shaped 
cape, not as shown; for which the design would probably have to be 
re-shaped) as an antique gold butterfly on a warm brown background, 
maybe with some beaded accents.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:
> A publisher friend of mine wants to find someone to license and 
> market, for mass manufacture, many years' worth of batik designs, only 
> a small number of which are represented on:


Check out the Surface Design Association
<http://www.surfacedesign.org/>

They may offer networking opportunities that could help make this happen.

andy

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Used book sources
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:53:56 -0700
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Status: RO

Also, check Amazon/Canada and Amazon/UK. I got a copy of "Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe:Unlock'd" that way. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 3:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Used book sources

 
In a message dated 10/8/2007 11:54:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

Another  used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction branch of
e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we listmembers
like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where people unload  books for
$2 to $10 or so, and they have good descriptions for  condition.



And this is the one where I've suffered the most disappointment of listed
books' not being available.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 00:26:25 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens' patterns
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Status: RO

Hello De ,

thanks for doing all this research -- I have now done some myself.

(looots of other links, and this one)
> http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html

My still-fiance has pretty much told me that what he would like is the
"1790's Frock Coate' 1837 - 1890" from this page, but they are saying
on their main page that they (Harper House) have just changed hands
and moved and might not have all items ready for shipping.

http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/Menspatterns.html seem to carry
the same frock, but the e-mail even bounced.

At a closer look, there doesn't seem to be that much out there!
Everybody is carrying items by everybody else -- this frock for
example is by Tailor's Guide, so I thought I'd ask them directly.

In fact, I've only found a few online pattern shops which have their
own patterns for this period:

Tailor's Guide http://www.tailorsguide.com/
(http://www.tailorsguide.com/images/f-coat.html)

Rocking Horse Farm (http://rockinghorse-farm.com/ ) -- but they are
closed until end of October

Kannik's Korner have a few interesting things at
http://www.kannikskorner.com/patmen2.htm

and of course Past Patterns, but at
http://www.pastpatterns.com/men.html, nothing resembles that style.


Does anyone on this list have any experience with these businesses?
(if not, I'll probably be the first one). I myself have already traded
with Past Patterns, and the service was prompt and very good. Even as
I'm ordering from outside the country.

btw... oh yes... has anyone made any of their patterns and can point
to pictures? It would be great to see them made up.

Barbara M ar en
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens' patterns
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 15:19:06 -0500
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Status: RO

I have used Past patterns and have learned that you definitly need a mock
up. Some of their patterns have problems and not always in the same area.
Clear instruction has been the main problem.

De




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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who licenses or acts as an agent for textile designs
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Status: RO

Thanks, will pass it on.

If memory serves (which maybe it doesn't), I saw or even subscribed to 
their journal back when I was doing a lot of weaving.  If it's the one I 
remember, it described a lot of interesting techniques being used by 
textile artists.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Andrew Trembley wrote:

> Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>> A publisher friend of mine wants to find someone to license and 
>> market, for mass manufacture, many years' worth of batik designs, only 
>> a small number of which are represented on:
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the Surface Design Association
> <http://www.surfacedesign.org/>
> 
> They may offer networking opportunities that could help make this happen.
> 
> andy
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kinko's Ignorance
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Status: RO

> We don't go in   
> there anymore--we go to a small but competent copy center owned by  
> local people who DO understand fair use. So I can't tell you if my  
> local Kinko's has people patrolling. But I'd suspect that, patrols 
> or  
> not, if they happened to notice someone copying out of a magazine or   
> other bound object they'd step in. I imagine other people have more   
> extensive experience with Kinko's and can comment more definitively.

I've needed to photocopy character sheets for convention games out of the
book(s) I'm demoing, have done this on several occasions, and have never
been chased down by Kinko's employees.  Of course, the closest one to my
job is always busy, I might be sneaking under the radar simply by not
chasing down the employees myself with questions.

Leah
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From: Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens' patterns
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Status: RO

On 10 Oct 2007, Barbara -_- M aren wrote:

> Hello De ,
> 
> thanks for doing all this research -- I have now done some myself.

If you don't mind a little more work, I am fond of

Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring
by R. I. Davis

<http://www.amazon.com/Mens-Garments-1830-1900-Pattern-Tailoring/dp/0887346480>

It will show you how to draft a pattern for a tail coat or frock coat.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 21:50:50 -0600
From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
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Status: RO

I finally found pictures of the set if it helps at all.

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREENTEA1.jpg

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREENTEA2.jpg

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREENTEA3.jpg

The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used I can
still make something out of that.....

On 10/8/07, Danielle M. Dewey <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> A persian coat might work.  It is a fairly thick comforter it would be
> warm.  It is a little shiny though.  I just know I am never going to use =
it
> again as a bedspread and thought I could put it to use.
>
>
> Well thank you for the ideas, and if anyone thinks of anything else by al=
l
> means please share
>
> *=B4=A8)
> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
> (=B8.=B7=B4
> .
>
>  On 10/8/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> >
> > Maybe a Persian coat?
> > Can you remove the quilting without leaving marks or permanent stitch
> > holes?
> > With satin, you are looking more at Renaissance fudging then Medieval,
> > especially shiny satin. Your also looking at winter attire with this
> > satin
> > as it does not breath. Plus you should not make anything out of it that
> > you
> > will want to wear around a fire.
> > If you are in SCA or similar group and if you have a coat of arms the
> > has
> > green in it you could use the satin for heraldic display stuff.
> > Though it would not be material of the 1300s and 1400s, you could make =
a
> > sideless surcoat. Could use it for a cloak lining. Or you could make a
> > Florentine giornea and/or gammurra
> > http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/florentine.html
> >
> > De
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I've already used the sheets to make a simple
> > kirtle.  My problem is that I'm not exactly sure what to make out of it=
.
> > Not only is it satin, but its quilted in sort of a strange way, I canno=
t
> > find pictures and I would take one, but an aquaintance has my camera at
> > the
> > moment. The quilting is all symmetrical, in straight lines, but intead
> > of
> > being noral quiltingit has some of it sticking up on some of the seams,
> > I'm
> > not really sure how to perscribe it. I have a comforter, pillow cases
> > and
> > curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would be in =
a
> > medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....Thank
> > you.....
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> --
> *=B4=A8)
> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
> (=B8.=B7=B4




--=20
*=B4=A8)
=B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
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Status: RO

Civil war evening gown comes to mind with this.
Perhaps
Simplicity 4510?
http://tinyurl.com/28p6cc
S9761
S5724
Or S4479?
B4954

-----Original Message-----
I finally found pictures of the set if it helps at all.

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=view&current=GREE
NTEA1.jpg

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=view&current=GREE
NTEA2.jpg

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=view&current=GREE
NTEA3.jpg

The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used I can
still make something out of that.....



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Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 23:40:02 -0600
From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
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Status: RO

That sounds beautiful, I'm not sure if I have that kind of skill though.

On 10/9/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>
> Civil war evening gown comes to mind with this.
> Perhaps
> Simplicity 4510?
> http://tinyurl.com/28p6cc
> S9761
> S5724
> Or S4479?
> B4954
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I finally found pictures of the set if it helps at all.
>
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREE
> NTEA1.jpg
>
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREE
> NTEA2.jpg
>
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREE
> NTEA3.jpg
>
> The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used I can
> still make something out of that.....
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--=20
*=B4=A8)
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(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost]wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens'
	patterns
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Barbara Maren wrote :
> http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html=20

>My still-fiance has pretty much told me that what he would like is the
>"1790's Frock Coate' 1837 - 1890" from this page, but they are saying
>on their main page that they (Harper House) have just changed hands
>and moved and might not have all items ready for shipping.

>http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/Menspatterns.html seem to carry
>the same frock, but the e-mail even bounced.

How do they think it can be from both the 1790s and 1837-90? The second =
website gives a more accurate date of 1790-1820.
Great style, though. If I were getting married I'd love to see my =
bridegroom in a coat like that.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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In a message dated 10/9/07 7:02:14 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> 
> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 00:26:25 +1000
> From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens'
>     patterns
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>     <228c7530710090726p7c24d41x80dd4da967e48572@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> Hello De ,
> 
> thanks for doing all this research -- I have now done some myself.
> 
> (looots of other links, and this one)
> > http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html
> 
> My still-fiance has pretty much told me that what he would like is the
> "1790's Frock Coate' 1837 - 1890" from this page, but they are saying
> on their main page that they (Harper House) have just changed hands
> and moved and might not have all items ready for shipping.
> 
> http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/Menspatterns.html seem to carry
> the same frock, but the e-mail even bounced.
> 
> At a closer look, there doesn't seem to be that much out there!
> Everybody is carrying items by everybody else -- this frock for
> example is by Tailor's Guide, so I thought I'd ask them directly.
> 
> In fact, I've only found a few online pattern shops which have their
> own patterns for this period:
> 
> Tailor's Guide http://www.tailorsguide.com/
> (http://www.tailorsguide.com/images/f-coat.html)
> 
> Rocking Horse Farm (http://rockinghorse-farm.com/ ) -- but they are
> closed until end of October
> 
> Kannik's Korner have a few interesting things at
> http://www.kannikskorner.com/patmen2.htm
> 
> and of course Past Patterns, but at
> http://www.pastpatterns.com/men.html, nothing resembles that style.
> 
> 
> Does anyone on this list have any experience with these businesses?
> (if not, I'll probably be the first one). I myself have already traded
> with Past Patterns, and the service was prompt and very good. Even as
> I'm ordering from outside the country.
> 
> btw... oh yes... has anyone made any of their patterns and can point
> to pictures? It would be great to see them made up.
> 
> Barbara M ar en
> 
> Hi Barbara, You could consider draughting up a pattern your self, or having 
> someone do it for you. If you want to consider that route try looking at the 
> following books. 1. Hill and Bucknell,   The Evolution of Fashion, Pub. 
> B.T.Batsford. I don't have it to hand at the moment but I seem to recall a frock 
> coat for about 1836. 2. Norah Waugh, The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900, Pub 
> Faber and Faber. Another one I don't have to hand but I'm sure there would be 
> something of interest. 3. R. I. Davis, Men's Garments 1830-1900, Pub Players 
> Press Inc. This has drawing instructions for an 1830  Dress coat, Frock coat, 
> Trousers and Waistcoat. Take your time and these are a straight forward 
> draw. 4. Edited R.L. Shep, Late Georgia Costume, Contains The Tailor's friendly 
> Instructor (1822), The Art of Tying the Cravat (1828), Pub. R.L. Shep. 
> Instructions for Coat, Frock coat, Waistcoat, Breeches, Pantaloons, and Trowsers. 
> You have to cope with the 1822 language in the instructions and it was intended 
> for tailors who were familiar with draughting layouts. This instructor was 
> republished in 1830 so I don't thing you would be looking at big changes in 
> the patterns. I assume this book was properly a prime resource for the Tailors 
> Guide pattern. You defiantly should get your intended to read The Art Of 
> Tying the Creavat to be sure he is a man who's cravat 'is a criterion by which 
> the rank of the wearer may be at once distinguished, and is of itself "a letter 
> of introduction'' ' . 5. Last but not least if you can find a copy of 
> Florence Theriault's, Fits and Starts, Pub. Gold Horse Publications, there is a 
> darling boys doll costume on page 8 showing an outfit of this 1830's period. A 
> white shirt with double pleated ruffles down the front, a creavat, A la Byron, 
> royal blue super fine tailed coat with navy blue velvet collar and cuffs, a 
> waist coat of multicoloured paisley design and fawn trousers strapped under 
> the foot. Ignore the centre front crease on the trousers. Who ever prepared 
> the costume for photography didn't realise that this crease would not come in 
> for another 50 years or so. Since you are in Oz you might try Ebay.au for a 
> copy of the 1830's pattern put out by the Power house Museum Sydney for the 
> bicentennial in 1988. There were four patterns. The one for men had a shirt and 
> front fall trousers you might find useful, a bit more 1840's than 1830. The 
> ladies dress 1836 is good, the sleeves are the main feature. Hope this is of 
> use. Regards Joy
> 

    
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Danielle M. Dewey wrote:
> That sounds beautiful, I'm not sure if I have that kind of skill though.
> 

You'd only be sewing straight lines. :)
The dresses are a lot less complicated than they look.


Dawn




> On 10/9/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>> Civil war evening gown comes to mind with this.
>> Perhaps
>> Simplicity 4510?
>> http://tinyurl.com/28p6cc
>> S9761
>> S5724
>> Or S4479?
>> B4954
>>
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Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:54:50 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau pattern books & mags was: Cranach gown
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... you also have a native German speaker on the list! And you have me all
excited -- while I was living in Germany, I haven't even noticed the
Rundschau myself, and now I'm about to go and subscribe to one of their
magazines -- have already subscribed to burda fashion patterns magazine (
http://www.burdamode.com/Magazines,1270777-1000019,enEN.html, but actually
the German one), but these ones
http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf hit even better the
point of what I need. Well, potentially. I do translations of the Spin-Off
magazine by Interweave Press (
http://www.interweave.com/spin/spinoff_magazine/default.asp) -- the other
way, from English into German -- on a voluntary basis. I'm also happy to
help!
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Status: RO


On Wed, 10 Oct 2007, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> Barbara Maren wrote :
>> http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html
>
>> My still-fiance has pretty much told me that what he would like is the
>> "1790's Frock Coate' 1837 - 1890" from this page, but they are saying
>> on their main page that they (Harper House) have just changed hands
>> and moved and might not have all items ready for shipping.
>
>> http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/Menspatterns.html seem to carry
>> the same frock, but the e-mail even bounced.
>
> How do they think it can be from both the 1790s and 1837-90? The second website gives a more accurate date of 1790-1820.
> Great style, though. If I were getting married I'd love to see my bridegroom in a coat like that.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>
It looks good on women, too. My wicked stepdaughter made one for me in 
this luscious claret and gold upholstery velvet (or it could be chenille) 
with gold silk facings. It looks amazing over black pants and a ruffled 
shirt. Because of the cutaway and how it goes over the chest it also makes 
me look rather thinner than I actually am, and that's not a bad thing 
either. Now that it's fall I should start wearing it to work again. ;-)

Jen
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 11:12:23 -0400
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Status: RO

That IS beautiful--I can see why you want to use it. But as a =20
theatrical costumer (community, low-budget!), I'd go Victorian with =20
it (and think I'd gone to heaven)....
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 9, 2007, at 11:50 PM, Danielle M. Dewey wrote:

> I finally found pictures of the set if it helps at all.
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?=20
> action=3Dview&current=3DGREENTEA1.jpg
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?=20
> action=3Dview&current=3DGREENTEA2.jpg
>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?=20
> action=3Dview&current=3DGREENTEA3.jpg
>
> The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used =20
> I can
> still make something out of that.....
>
> On 10/8/07, Danielle M. Dewey <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> A persian coat might work.  It is a fairly thick comforter it =20
>> would be
>> warm.  It is a little shiny though.  I just know I am never going =20
>> to use it
>> again as a bedspread and thought I could put it to use.
>>
>>
>> Well thank you for the ideas, and if anyone thinks of anything =20
>> else by all
>> means please share
>>
>> *=B4=A8)
>> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
>> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
>> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
>> (=B8.=B7=B4
>> .
>>
>>  On 10/8/07, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe a Persian coat?
>>> Can you remove the quilting without leaving marks or permanent =20
>>> stitch
>>> holes?
>>> With satin, you are looking more at Renaissance fudging then =20
>>> Medieval,
>>> especially shiny satin. Your also looking at winter attire with this
>>> satin
>>> as it does not breath. Plus you should not make anything out of =20
>>> it that
>>> you
>>> will want to wear around a fire.
>>> If you are in SCA or similar group and if you have a coat of arms =20=

>>> the
>>> has
>>> green in it you could use the satin for heraldic display stuff.
>>> Though it would not be material of the 1300s and 1400s, you could =20=

>>> make a
>>> sideless surcoat. Could use it for a cloak lining. Or you could =20
>>> make a
>>> Florentine giornea and/or gammurra
>>> http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/florentine.html
>>>
>>> De
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> I've already used the sheets to make a simple
>>> kirtle.  My problem is that I'm not exactly sure what to make out =20=

>>> of it.
>>> Not only is it satin, but its quilted in sort of a strange way, I =20=

>>> cannot
>>> find pictures and I would take one, but an aquaintance has my =20
>>> camera at
>>> the
>>> moment. The quilting is all symmetrical, in straight lines, but =20
>>> intead
>>> of
>>> being noral quiltingit has some of it sticking up on some of the =20
>>> seams,
>>> I'm
>>> not really sure how to perscribe it. I have a comforter, pillow =20
>>> cases
>>> and
>>> curtains.  Preferably the clothing I would creat out of it would =20
>>> be in a
>>> medieval style.  Any suggestions would be greatly =20
>>> appreciated.....Thank
>>> you.....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> *=B4=A8)
>> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
>> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
>> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
>> (=B8.=B7=B4
>
>
>
>
> --=20
> *=B4=A8)
> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
> (=B8.=B7=B4
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

What I'd like to know is where did you get the set in the first
place???  That's gorgeous--and I am coveting it big-time.  :)

Meli
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
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Status: RO


>>
>> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=view&current=GREENTEA3.jpg 
>>
>>
>> The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used I can
>> still make something out of that.....
>>

I think the sheets would make a lovely kimono, if you really want to cut 
them up.


Dawn


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau pattern books & mags was: Cranach gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It's interesting, but no one knows about it and personally, I consider it very good, actually I haven't found anything better on the subject (if anyone knows about something, please tell me!). 

Notice that when you've subscribed you can very cheaply buy the older magazines, each year in a book (Jahresband). One for 20 euros or something. You'll soon realize that you'll need the basic patterns = slopers, and you can buy the Jahresband that involves it (for dress, I guess it's 2003, for example). But you can call them and ask them, they'll tell you exactly.

The more magazines or "Jahresbände" you have, the better for you. Once upon a time they publish things like adjusting a pattern for a complicated figure and all the details you need to know about drafting, and the more information you have, the better you get. 

Barbara -_- M aren <bmwbmwb@gmail.com> wrote: ... you also have a native German speaker on the list! And you have me all
excited -- while I was living in Germany, I haven't even noticed the
Rundschau myself, and now I'm about to go and subscribe to one of their
magazines -- have already subscribed to burda fashion patterns magazine (
http://www.burdamode.com/Magazines,1270777-1000019,enEN.html, but actually
the German one), but these ones
http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf hit even better the
point of what I need. Well, potentially. I do translations of the Spin-Off
magazine by Interweave Press (
http://www.interweave.com/spin/spinoff_magazine/default.asp) -- the other
way, from English into German -- on a voluntary basis. I'm also happy to
help!
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau pattern books & mags
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Status: RO

Barbara,
I'm interested in the modern tailoring "schnitte" books.  Do you have
a list of translations that you've already done for these?  I'm not a
begining tailor by any stretch, so, only the more detailed articles
are going to be relevant as are the articles on historical techniques,
fit, construction, materials.  I"m interested in most methods for
heavily constructed garments, 16th thru 19th c.

Happy to answer tailoring questions if you like.  Would love to show
you, too. (Oh for a boondoggle to Oz!)  IMHO, most any pattern will
do, you're going to spend most of your jacket time on pin-fitting,
mockups, understructure & shaping.  I've used Norah Waugh's book
instead of patterns. Arnold, too, of course.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau pattern books & mags was: Cranach gown
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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       <228c7530710092254u5303de5ewb4b0885ddf5ab6fc@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

... you also have a native German speaker on the list! And you have me all
excited -- while I was living in Germany, I haven't even noticed the
Rundschau myself, and now I'm about to go and subscribe to one of their
magazines -- have already subscribed to burda fashion patterns magazine (
http://www.burdamode.com/Magazines,1270777-1000019,enEN.html, but actually
the German one), but these ones
http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf hit even better the
point of what I need. Well, potentially. I do translations of the Spin-Off
magazine by Interweave Press (
http://www.interweave.com/spin/spinoff_magazine/default.asp) -- the other
way, from English into German -- on a voluntary basis. I'm also happy to
help!
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost]wedding in historical costumes -1830s mens'
	patterns
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In a message dated 10/10/2007 4:04:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com writes:

It looks  good on women, too. My wicked stepdaughter made one for me in 
this  luscious claret and gold upholstery velvet (or it could be chenille) 
with  gold silk facings. It looks amazing over black pants and a ruffled  
shirt.


****************
 
Right after I worked on "Interview with the Vampire" in NOLA, I made a  bunch 
of 18th century shirts and some waistcoats and cut-aways, as well as  
half-fall breeches and jodhpurs for women for one of the girls on the crew who  had a 
clothing shop. We thought the men's stuff look great on women and it might  
catch on after the film. Alas, not so. No one wanted any of it. I gave some of  
it to my cousin Mary who raises and rides horses. She loved it and would wear 
 the stuff riding and at shows.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for an old quilt
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
On Oct 9, 2007, at 11:50 PM, Danielle M. Dewey wrote:

> I finally found pictures of the set if it helps at all.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?
> action=view&current=GREENTEA1.jpg

Perhaps a quilted petticoat, 1750-75 to wear "at home" with your
caraco.  Or if you like, Provencal fashions thru the early-19th c,
pretty much the same style.

Yeah, I know you said medieval, but I cant think of much that's
quilted & medieval except a civilian pourpoint or arming jack.  You've
discarded ideas with complex construction, so I'm left with no further
suggestions.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I bought the set from Bed, Bath & Beyond a few years ago when I was with my
highschool sweetheart still, My husband and I have a queen size bed and eve=
n
if we had a king I would not want to use the same bedding as with my ex,
this is why I want to cut them up.  Everyone is giving me wonderful ideas
thank you.

On 10/10/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>
>
> >>
> >>
> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?action=3Dview&current=
=3DGREENTEA3.jpg
> >>
> >>
> >> The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used I
> can
> >> still make something out of that.....
> >>
>
> I think the sheets would make a lovely kimono, if you really want to cut
> them up.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--=20
*=B4=A8)
=B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
(=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
.=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
(=B8.=B7=B4
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas
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On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:35 PM, Danielle M. Dewey wrote:

> I bought the set from Bed, Bath & Beyond a few years ago when I was =20=

> with my
> highschool sweetheart still, My husband and I have a queen size bed =20=

> and even
> if we had a king I would not want to use the same bedding as with my =20=

> ex,

Really?  That thought has never even crossed my mind.  Not that I sleep =20=

around, mind you.  Not any more, anyhow.  That was decades ago.  Now =20
I'm lucky if I can get my cats into bed with me.

Sylrog


> this is why I want to cut them up.  Everyone is giving me wonderful =20=

> ideas
> thank you.
>
> On 10/10/07, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>
>>>>
>> http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b133/SorayaNazli/?=20
>> action=3Dview&current=3DGREENTEA3.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The sheet set shown in the third pic is not the one I already used =
I
>> can
>>>> still make something out of that.....
>>>>
>>
>> I think the sheets would make a lovely kimono, if you really want to =20=

>> cut
>> them up.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> --=20
> *=B4=A8)
> =B8.=B7=B4=B8.=B7=B4=A8) =B8.=B7*=A8).
> (=B8.=B7=B4 (=B8.=B7=B4 .=B7=B4
> .=B7=B4 =B8.=B7*`=B7~=BB*~Danielle~*=BB~
> (=B8.=B7=B4
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Have a badly flea-infested dog sleep in them for a few nights, then send 
them to your ex as a gift.  Dog fleas will bite humans if no dog is 
available.

Fran

Danielle M. Dewey wrote:

> I bought the set from Bed, Bath & Beyond a few years ago when I was with my
> highschool sweetheart still, My husband and I have a queen size bed and even
> if we had a king I would not want to use the same bedding as with my ex,
> this is why I want to cut them up.  Everyone is giving me wonderful ideas
> thank you.
>
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: cleaning an old quilt (was Re: [h-cost] Ideas for an old quilt
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While we're talking about Old Quilts (tm) ...

I have a quilt that my grandmother made in the early 30s -- it's never  
been washed, and I want to get it cleaned and "preserved."  (*giggle*  
If it was photographs, I'd know what to do, but I digress ...)

It's edged in *red* so I really don't want to wash it, I'm sure it will run.

What do I need to do with this quilt to ensure that it continues to  
have a long and useful life?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO

Susan Farmer wrote:

> What do I need to do with this quilt to ensure that it continues to have 
> a long and useful life?
> 

Some web pages on this topic, that I wrote several years ago.

http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/antique.htm
http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/storage.htm
http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/documnt.htm

Not automatically throwing it in the washer is a good first step. :)
The red may or may not run, you can swab test it to see. It may be 
strong enough to hand wash, if it needs that much attention. There are 
various ways to take care of it -- and any vintage textiles -- depending 
on whether you want to store it or display it.


Dawn



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Status: RO

Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Susan Farmer wrote:
>
>> What do I need to do with this quilt to ensure that it continues to =20
>>  have a long and useful life?
>>
>
> Some web pages on this topic, that I wrote several years ago.
>
> http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/antique.htm
> http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/storage.htm
> http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/documnt.htm

Thanks!  I'll go read them right now.

>
> Not automatically throwing it in the washer is a good first step. :)
> The red may or may not run, you can swab test it to see. It may be
> strong enough to hand wash, if it needs that much attention. There are
> various ways to take care of it -- and any vintage textiles --
> depending on whether you want to store it or display it.
>

I figured that would be A Bad Thing!  I at least knew that much.  :-S  =20
It's in good shape -- physically, I think it would survive =20
hand-washing.  I don't want to do it if the dyes will run.  I'd like =20
to display it -- but I don't know if I'd *use* it or not.

Thanks!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> I figured that would be A Bad Thing!  I at least knew that much.  :-S
> It's in good shape -- physically, I think it would survive
> hand-washing.  I don't want to do it if the dyes will run.  I'd like to
> display it -- but I don't know if I'd *use* it or not.

Also check out the International Quilt Study Center's website: =20
http://www.quiltstudy.org/

They're currently housed in the same building as most of my textile =20
history classes, and we've worked with some of the quilts occasionally.

They don't wash quilts.  Ever.  To clean them, they vacuum very =20
carefully, with a special low-suction vacuum and through a fiberglass =20
screen (with the edges bound so it won't catch the fabric.)  A regular =20
household vacuum can be used, but you need to keep the end of the =20
nozzle an inch or more away from the fabric so it doesn't get sucked =20
up against the tube.

Making sausages out of medical stockinette and quilt batting is a good =20
idea, but I would recommend poly batting instead: polyester is =20
archivally safer than cotton is.  Cotton, as a cellulosic fiber, will =20
decompose, giving off acids the same way paper does, just not as =20
quickly.  When preparing an exhibit, we used 100% polyester to build =20
the forms whenever possible, and well-washed unbleached muslin when it =20
wasn't possible.

Emma

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Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:14:31 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I have a friend who is being sent to Germany for a week for work, and
she has little free time scheduled for the trip but she has a free
morning in Frankfurt.  Are there any costume museums, or must see
fabric or trim shops there?

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

I might use this idea. The Visa bill came in. He has been buying her linger=
ie on our joint account, and since I'm the one that still has an address I =
get the bills. Then, he bitches at me for every dime I am costing him - eno=
ugh that he has suggested I keep the heat off in the house this winter. I h=
ope that thong gives her rug burn.=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant =
tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, sli=
pped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head er=
ased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-Geor=
ge Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of kno=
wledge. =0AWho you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. The=
y can only assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you=
 to their own image.=0A=0AHave a badly flea-infested dog sleep in them for =
a few nights, then send =0Athem to your ex as a gift.  Dog fleas will bite =
humans if no dog is =0Aavailable.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Be sma=
rter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot wi=
th the All-new Yahoo! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=3Dca=
=0A
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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 01:11:46 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 1830s mens' patterns
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Status: RO

Hello Joy,

thanks for your long list:

1. Hill and Bucknell,   The Evolution of Fashion, Pub.  B.T.Batsford.

I actually own that one and have it here! Yes, there is a 1830s man's
outfit there. I should try to draft that myself but don't really have
the time (I think). The pattern sketches in there are quite rough and
the remarks relatively sparse. "trousers: cut with a front fall" huh?
how? That's precisely what I don't know how to do and need a pattern
for. I have a (general) problem with patterns for pants/trousers. But
it's a great resource to give me ideas. Then also, the frock from
Tailors Guide is double-breasted and the one in Hill& Bucknell
single-breasted.

2. Norah Waugh, The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900, Pub  Faber and Faber.

I apparently have the wrong book by Waugh here! and also by Arnold :-(
just missing that one period for men.

4. Edited R.L. Shep, Late Georgia Costume, Contains The Tailor's
friendly  Instructor (1822), The Art of Tying the Cravat (1828), Pub.
R.L. Shep.

Thanks a ton for all the advice..

::
Bar bara Ma rien
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From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau pattern books & mags
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Status: RO

Hi Cin,
> I'm interested in the modern tailoring "schnitte" books.  Do you have
> a list of translations that you've already done for these?

Oh, I hope my post was not confusing in this respect. I haven't
translated for Rundschau yet, but for a handspinnng magazine, and not
from German to English, but from English to German, and not whole
books yet, but always a few articles at a time. I don't have any of
the Rundschau books yet so couldn't look things up to tell you what
they mean. But if you have a passage or expression that you have a
problem with, just post it or e-mail me privately and I'll try to
help. And I'm familiar with tailoring terms in both languages.

B arbara M aren
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Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:19:16 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] frankfurt germany-sites to see
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Someone will be bound to ask, so it might as well be me - which Frankfurt - Frankfurt am Main? Or Frankfurt am Oder?
   
  I've worked for a year close to one, but know nothing about the other.
   
  JW

Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
  I have a friend who is being sent to Germany for a week for work, and
she has little free time scheduled for the trip but she has a free
morning in Frankfurt. Are there any costume museums, or must see
fabric or trim shops there?
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I'll have to ask her--thanks.

Katy

On 10/11/07, julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Someone will be bound to ask, so it might as well be me - which Frankfurt - Frankfurt am Main? Or Frankfurt am Oder?
>
>   I've worked for a year close to one, but know nothing about the other.
>
>   JW
>
> Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
>   I have a friend who is being sent to Germany for a week for work, and
> she has little free time scheduled for the trip but she has a free
> morning in Frankfurt. Are there any costume museums, or must see
> fabric or trim shops there?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Interested in attending the Lectures of Robin Netherton and Laurellen de Brandevin on October 20th and 21st?? Great,  space is still available and we are still accepting registrations. Registrations will need to be POSTMARKED by tomorrow, October 12 to secure your seat! 
Get registration forms and information here: www.costumetalk.com.

       
---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect.  Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.
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Status: RO

I was just thinking:  If your ex is using your joint credit card, it 
could be a legal process to untangle.

What if you reported it stolen, so he can't use it, and apply for 
another card under your own name?

Fran
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s mens' patterns
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:20:19 -0400
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Status: RO


On Oct 11, 2007, at 11:11 AM, Barbara -_- M aren wrote:

>
> 1. Hill and Bucknell,   The Evolution of Fashion, Pub.  B.T.Batsford.

I would recommend that you do not use this book for patterns.  Not  
only are the patterns sketchy, they're sometimes completely wrong.   
You'll need FAR more and better information than you can get from  
this book to make men's clothing from the 19th century.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
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Status: RO

Just saw Manohla Dargis's review of 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age' in the 
New York Times. Here's a sample:

"A kitsch extravaganza aquiver with trembling bosoms, booming guns and 
wild energy, “Elizabeth: The Golden Age” 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/gst/movies/movie.html?v_id=335198&inline=nyt_ttl> 
tells, if more often shouts, the story of the bastard monarch who ruled 
England with an iron grip and two tightly closed legs. It’s the story of 
a woman, who, as played by the irresistibly watchable Cate Blanchett 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/person/215038/Cate-Blanchett?inline=nyt-per> 
as David Bowie 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/person/82636/David-Bowie?inline=nyt-per> in 
his Ziggy Stardust period, sublimated her libidinal energies through 
court intrigue until she found sweet relief by violently bringing the 
Spanish Empire to its knees."

"But that’s getting ahead of this story, which begins in 1585 when Queen 
Elizabeth hit 52, though the film seems to put her closer to 38, Ms. 
Blanchett’s actual age. The blurring of fact and fancy is, of course, 
routine with this kind of opulent big-screen production, in which the 
finer points of history largely take a back seat to personal melodrama 
and lavish details of production design and costumes. In this regard 
“The Golden Age” 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/gst/movies/titlelist.html?v_idlist=332151;335198&inline=nyt_ttl> 
may set a standard for such an adulterated form: it’s reductive, 
distorted and deliriously far-fetched, but the gowns are fabulous, the 
wigs are a sight and Clive Owen 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/person/54491/Clive-Owen?inline=nyt-per> makes 
a dandy Errol Flynn 
<http://movies.nytimes.com/person/90030/Errol-Flynn?inline=nyt-per>, 
even if he’s really meant to be Walter Raleigh, the queen’s favorite 
smoldering slab of man meat."

Remainder at NYTimes (free subscription may be required):
http://movies.nytimes.com/2007/10/12/movies/12gold.html?th&emc=th

Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple 
moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration), the reviewer is 
spot-on. The costumes are certainly fabulous. Historically 
accurate....well...what do we expect??

- Hope

--------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, Academic Computing, U of Vermont
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Status: RO

Desson Thomson of the Washington Post has even more to say about the use 
of costumes in 'Elizabeth':

"Just in time for Halloween, "Elizabeth: The Golden Age" is here to tell 
us that evoking England 
<http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/related/topic/United+Kingdom?tid=informline>'s 
greatest queen is just a matter of finding the right gown, ruffled 
collar and frizzy wig. That seems to be the only purpose of this 
much-anticipated follow-up to 1998's "Elizabeth," which thrilled 
audiences with its spirited embrace of history and the introduction of a 
fiery newcomer named Cate Blanchett 
<http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/related/topic/Cate+Blanchett?tid=informline> 
. Unfortunately, director Shekhar Kapur 
<http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/related/topic/Shekhar+Kapur?tid=informline> 
has doffed that sensual primacy for a bloated costume opera, in which 
the characters are essentially dress-up dolls, and Elizabeth has evolved 
from our favorite royal ingenue to a lifeless, chalk-faced runway diva."

Complete, and scathing, review at:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/11/AR2007101102296.html?wpisrc=newsletter&wpisrc=newsletter&wpisrc=newsletter

- Hope

---------------
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Status: RO

Yikes! My apologies for not editing the previous 2 posts. I forgot that 
this particular e-mail client renders links as spelled out URLs when one 
chooses "send as text." Here I didn't want to complicate member 
e-mailboxes by sending as HTML and I ended up cluttering the messages 
with URLs. Ah well...

- Hope
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 09:22:23 -0400
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Status: RO

On Friday 12 October 2007, Hope Greenberg wrote:
[snip]

> Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple
> moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration), the reviewer is
> spot-on. The costumes are certainly fabulous. Historically
> accurate....well...what do we expect??

Not much.  Well, I don't.  I saw the first movie, and the costumes ranged 
from "Ren Faire close" to "What were they thinking!" in terms of accuracy.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Hope Greenberg wrote:

> Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple 
> moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration), the reviewer is 
> spot-on. The costumes are certainly fabulous. Historically 
> accurate....well...what do we expect??
> 

I expect some escapist fantasy and some pretty costumes, historical or 
not, and an evening out with my husband. Same as I'd get from any movie.


Dawn

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From: Charlene Charette <clclists1@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] flapper era headband
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Status: RO

I'm asking this for someone on another list.  Is there a specific term 
for the flapper era headband (I'm assuming she means in the US) other 
than "headband"?

TIA,
--Charlene


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Fillet, isn't it?

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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In the 'teens, the headdress consisting of a band worn across the
forehead was called a headache band, the popularity of which is
attributed to Irene Castle.

Katy

On 10/12/07, Charlene Charette <clclists1@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I'm asking this for someone on another list.  Is there a specific term
> for the flapper era headband (I'm assuming she means in the US) other
> than "headband"?
>
> TIA,
> --Charlene
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabeth Reviews
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Status: RO

What you said. It also seems that the director's vision was NOT one of
historical reality, either in costume or content:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/05/AR2007100500694.html

I am hoping that the acting will be good, at least!

Allison T.

On 10/12/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:


> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 10:14:26 -0500
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <470F8F52.4000206@reddawn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Hope Greenberg wrote:
>
> > Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple
> > moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration), the reviewer is
> > spot-on. The costumes are certainly fabulous. Historically
> > accurate....well...what do we expect??
> >
>
> I expect some escapist fantasy and some pretty costumes, historical or
> not, and an evening out with my husband. Same as I'd get from any movie.
>
>
> Dawn
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Actually, I do have one in my own name. I had it long before I had him. I h=
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ow. So I have taken him off every account I can legally yank his name from.=
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 if you have bad credit and no recent history with the company. =0AI had th=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
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In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

> the story of the bastard monarch 

*****************

It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz was 
conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed adultery is different 
from an annulment.

Of course in this film anything's possible. I suppose there'll be some 
females in outrageous full armor like that last one....



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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
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I think the question of her illegitimacy has to do with the fact that he could have still been legally married to Katherine of Aragon when he married Anne. When the Pope wouldn't declare the marriage void, he took over the English church and declared it void himself. Many didn't see that as a valid annulment. 
   
  And, as I recall, she was pregnant with Elizabeth when they married, but that doesn't make her a bastard as long as they were married by the time she was born.

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

> the story of the bastard monarch 

*****************

It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz was 
conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed adultery is different 
from an annulment.

Of course in this film anything's possible. I suppose there'll be some 
females in outrageous full armor like that last one....



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who licenses or acts as an agent for textile
  designs
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Status: RO

At 12:52 AM 10/9/2007, you wrote:
>Personally, I want the butterfly design on a velvet cape (a real 
>shaped cape, not as shown; for which the design would probably have 
>to be re-shaped) as an antique gold butterfly on a warm brown 
>background, maybe with some beaded accents.
>
>Fran


Wow, those are incredibly beautiful!

Dianne


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Status: RO

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
>
>   
>> the story of the bastard monarch 
>>     
>
> *****************
>
> It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz was 
> conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed adultery is different 
> from an annulment.
>
>   
She was illegitimised by Act of Parliament (along with Mary) when Henry 
married Jane Seymour, to make sure any children he had with Jane would 
take precedence, even if it hadn't been a boy.  But that was repealed 
later, I can't remember when but she would have done it when she came to 
the throne herself, if it hadn't been done before.

" Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple 
moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration)..."

My first thought was, surely that shade of purple wasn't invented until 
the 19th century?

JEan

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From: Beteena Paradise <beteena@mostlymedieval.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
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Status: RO

In the image I saw, it almost looked like it is a shot fabric with what could be black and blue... definitely black. You can see that in the skirt. But... it probably IS a rather later color of purple based on the rest of the costuming in the movie.
   
  But... it won't matter. I am sure I will see it and love it. I am always entertained by costume dramas and I adore Cate Blanchett.

Jean Waddie <waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
  My first thought was, surely that shade of purple wasn't invented until 
the 19th century?

JEan

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
>
>   
>> the story of the bastard monarch 
>>     
>
> *****************
>
> It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz was 
> conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed adultery is different 
> from an annulment.
>   
The exact date of the marriage of Anne Boleyn to Henry VIII is not 
known-- it was some time during late 1532 or January, 1533.  Elizabeth 
was born in early September, so it's not possible to know with certainty 
whether she was conceived just before or just after the marriage took 
place.  Her parents were definitely married when she was born, though, 
which is what matters in terms of legitimacy.

However, before Anne lost her head, her marriage to the King was 
annulled on the grounds of the consanguinuity of a previous sexual 
relationship between Henry and Anne's sister Mary, for which no 
dispensation had been granted (or sought, for that matter). Elizabeth 
was declared a bastard.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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References: <c2d.1ddf93ab.34413706@aol.com> <470FFC16.1080009@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 13:41:15 -0700
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Status: RO

And that raised the question of whether Mary Boleyn's son, Henry Carey, was
really Henry's bastard son, making him half brother to Elizabeth, instead of
only first cousin. Makes you wish you could be a fly on the wall....  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Adele de Maisieres
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 3:59 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
>
>   
>> the story of the bastard monarch
>>     
>
> *****************
>
> It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz 
> was conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed 
> adultery is different from an annulment.
>   
The exact date of the marriage of Anne Boleyn to Henry VIII is not
known-- it was some time during late 1532 or January, 1533.  Elizabeth was
born in early September, so it's not possible to know with certainty whether
she was conceived just before or just after the marriage took place.  Her
parents were definitely married when she was born, though, which is what
matters in terms of legitimacy.

However, before Anne lost her head, her marriage to the King was annulled on
the grounds of the consanguinuity of a previous sexual relationship between
Henry and Anne's sister Mary, for which no dispensation had been granted (or
sought, for that matter). Elizabeth was declared a bastard.


--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
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Status: RO

  Ladies & Gentlemen of the List,
  this List seems to be honoured by a number of people whose professional work is - or has been - Costuming - for Museums, Theatre, Films, and the like. Reading many past Posts while I have been lurking in the shadows and learning from you all, I suspect that some of you also have expertise in the conservation and cleaning of historic clothing.
   
  I plead for help on behalf of my Lady and her sister, from such of you as have experience in the restoration/conservation of historic clothing - especially the metallic lace which so often is to be found upon "dress" uniforms.
  "Old" Jersey's Catholic "cathedral" has just undergone a £1Million+plus renovation, to restore the building to it's original 1870's "Gothic Revival" splendour. 
  The Canon [Jersey's most senior Catholic priest] has subsequently -  and as a part of the renovation - created a small exhibition - in purpose-made display-cases - in one of the underused side-chapels - of many religious items which have languished hidden in storage for years. 
   
  Near-on 40 gorgeously-embroidered Copes and Chasubles have been discovered, for example, secreted in various cupboards and chests in seldom-visited corners of various Church properties. Some of these robes are believed to be over a century old, dating from the 1870's-80's.
  These robes will be displayed in rotation, so that visitors and Congregation may marvel at the High Craft of these wonderful examples of the highest-quality Embroidery. 
   
  Chalices, pattens, monstrances, reliquaries, small shrines, and other items, - many presented to the new Church when it was first consecrated in 1873 - have now been cleaned and restored by my Lady and her sister, and are on-display for the first in over 60 years. One Monstrance is said to have been donated  to the newly-consecrated St. Thomas'' Church by Louis Napoleon III, ex-Emperor of the French. A small coffered shrine, of over-gilded wood and plaster, now in restoration by myself - is known to have been donated by the Papacy of the Time.
   
  One of the exhibits is the Uniform of St. Thomas'  "Suisse" [from the French "suivre" - to follow, rather than from the "Swiss"  denoting a connection with the Papal Guard]. 
  The Suisse led all the Church processions - carrying a Mace and a Spontoon, to "clear the way". 
  The single-breasted swallow-tail coat is edged- and the "overall" trousers are  striped down the side seams - with metallic "gold" lace, almost a bright as the day they were delivered from the Tailors, [because they were properly stored-away when the "office" of the Suisse was not filled by the local priest in the early 1960's, following the retirement of the previous Suisse].
   However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also heavily ornamented with "gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich feathers  - was not so carefully stored-away, and - though the base fabric and feathers are untouched by Time, - the metallic lace has tarnished badly, and is now green instead of a bright gold.
   
  We would welcome suggestions as to how we might clean the metallic lace and restore it to a shine at least equal to that of the lace ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.
  
Thanking you in advance for your suggestions,
  Julian Wilson

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
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Status: RO

At 10:59 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>   Ladies & Gentlemen of the List,
>   this List seems to be honoured by a number of=20
> people whose professional work is - or has been=20
> - Costuming - for Museums, Theatre, Films, and=20
> the like. Reading many past Posts while I have=20
> been lurking in the shadows and learning from=20
> you all, I suspect that some of you also have=20
> expertise in the conservation and cleaning of historic clothing.
>
>   I plead for help on behalf of my Lady and her=20
> sister, from such of you as have experience in=20
> the restoration/conservation of historic=20
> clothing - especially the metallic lace which=20
> so often is to be found upon "dress" uniforms.
>   "Old" Jersey's Catholic "cathedral" has just=20
> undergone a =A31Million+plus renovation, to=20
> restore the building to it's original 1870's "Gothic Revival" splendour.
>   The Canon [Jersey's most senior Catholic=20
> priest] has subsequently -  and as a part of=20
> the renovation - created a small exhibition -=20
> in purpose-made display-cases - in one of the=20
> underused side-chapels - of many religious=20
> items which have languished hidden in storage for years.
>
>   Near-on 40 gorgeously-embroidered Copes and=20
> Chasubles have been discovered, for example,=20
> secreted in various cupboards and chests in=20
> seldom-visited corners of various Church=20
> properties. Some of these robes are believed to=20
> be over a century old, dating from the 1870's-80's.
>   These robes will be displayed in rotation, so=20
> that visitors and Congregation may marvel at=20
> the High Craft of these wonderful examples of the highest-quality=
 Embroidery.
>
>   Chalices, pattens, monstrances, reliquaries,=20
> small shrines, and other items, - many=20
> presented to the new Church when it was first=20
> consecrated in 1873 - have now been cleaned and=20
> restored by my Lady and her sister, and are=20
> on-display for the first in over 60 years. One=20
> Monstrance is said to have been donated  to the=20
> newly-consecrated St. Thomas'' Church by Louis=20
> Napoleon III, ex-Emperor of the French. A small=20
> coffered shrine, of over-gilded wood and=20
> plaster, now in restoration by myself - is=20
> known to have been donated by the Papacy of the Time.
>
>   One of the exhibits is the Uniform of St.=20
> Thomas'  "Suisse" [from the French "suivre" -=20
> to follow, rather than from the=20
> "Swiss"  denoting a connection with the Papal Guard].
>   The Suisse led all the Church processions -=20
> carrying a Mace and a Spontoon, to "clear the way".
>   The single-breasted swallow-tail coat is=20
> edged- and the "overall" trousers are  striped=20
> down the side seams - with metallic "gold"=20
> lace, almost a bright as the day they were=20
> delivered from the Tailors, [because they were=20
> properly stored-away when the "office" of the=20
> Suisse was not filled by the local priest in=20
> the early 1960's, following the retirement of the previous Suisse].
>    However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn=20
> "athwartships"] - also heavily ornamented with=20
> "gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich=20
> feathers  - was not so carefully stored-away,=20
> and - though the base fabric and feathers are=20
> untouched by Time, - the metallic lace has=20
> tarnished badly, and is now green instead of a bright gold.
>
>   We would welcome suggestions as to how we=20
> might clean the metallic lace and restore it to=20
> a shine at least equal to that of the lace=20
> ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.
>
>Thanking you in advance for your suggestions,
>   Julian Wilson

You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in=20
London, who very possibly supplied the braid in=20
the first place. I will try and get an address=20
for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the=20
Royal School of Needlework's conservator=20
department at Hampton Court might be able to help.

Suzi



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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Dear Suzi, 
  TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.
   
  yoursgratefully,
  Julian Wilson

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
    SNIPPED
> However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also heavily ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich  feathers - was not so carefully stored-away,  and - SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  tarnished badly, and is now green instead of a bright gold.
> We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the metallic lace and restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of the lace  ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED
  REPLY
  You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very possibly supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get an address for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal School of Needlework's conservator department at Hampton Court might be able to help.

Suzi
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Oct 14 06:48:41 2007
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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 11:48:02 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
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Status: RO

At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
>   TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.

I couldn't find them on line, but have put a request out on another 
list I'm on, as we have people who make military uniforms there.

Suzi

>
>   yoursgratefully,
>   Julian Wilson
>
>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>     SNIPPED
> > However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also 
> heavily ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white 
> ostrich  feathers - was not so carefully stored-away,  and - 
> SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  tarnished badly, and is now green 
> instead of a bright gold.
> > We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the 
> metallic lace and restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of 
> the lace  ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED
>   REPLY
>   You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very 
> possibly supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get 
> an address for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal 
> School of Needlework's conservator department at Hampton Court 
> might be able to help.
>
>Suzi
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 12:56:22 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
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At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
>   TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.
>

86 Margaret Street London W1W (0207 580 7488)

<http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/>http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/

Suzi

Apparently they have moved and changed hands and so on! (No pun intended!) 
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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 13:08:03 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Reply - [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Aha! Margaret Street, London? 
  Way back when the world was young, & rocks were soft, - one of my very first jobs was clerking for the Performing Rights Society whose HQ was in Margaret Street! Hand't thought of that for years.
  Anyway, TYVM for giving-up some of your Sunday morning to be so helpful.  My lady will now take action on that data.
   
  Best Wishes and Thanks,
  Julian

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
> TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.
>

86 Margaret Street London W1W (0207 580 7488)

http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/

Suzi

Apparently they have moved and changed hands and so on! (No pun intended!) 
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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 11:30:54 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
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Status: RO


I read somewhere that mettalic lace was originally cleaned by rubbing it
with a piece of bread saturated with urine.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:48 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.


At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
>   TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.

I couldn't find them on line, but have put a request out on another
list I'm on, as we have people who make military uniforms there.

Suzi

>
>   yoursgratefully,
>   Julian Wilson
>
>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>     SNIPPED
> > However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also
> heavily ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white
> ostrich  feathers - was not so carefully stored-away,  and -
> SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  tarnished badly, and is now green
> instead of a bright gold.
> > We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the
> metallic lace and restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of
> the lace  ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED
>   REPLY
>   You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very
> possibly supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get
> an address for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal
> School of Needlework's conservator department at Hampton Court
> might be able to help.
>
>Suzi
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:44:27 +0200
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Status: RO

http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/
This is the company Suzi Clarke would give you to ask about cleaning 
tarnished metal-

Bjarne 


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Subject: [h-cost] Seeking names in early textile research
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Status: RO


Passing along a question from a friend that I can't answer myself:=20
Can anyone point me to which researchers would be the "name" specialists st=
udying and publishing about textiles from the Near East and Aegean from the=
 fourth and third centuries B.C.?
=20
I know there are plenty of people in pre-medieval periods, but because it's=
 not my own area, I can't remember which scholars specialize in which perio=
ds and places, and I'd rather not e-mail all of them to find out.
=20
This is to help a student working in a related material culture area in the=
 period of Alexander the Great.
=20
Thanks!
=20
--Robin
=20
_________________________________________________________________
Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger=A0
http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=3Den-us&sourc=
e=3Dwlmailtagline=
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Status: RO

In case your wondering, yes there is still space available.  If you would still like to attend the Robin Netherton/Tammie Dupuis Lecture sereis next weekend (October 20, 21) in Eugene Oregon please visit our website at www.costumetalk.com for information on the event.   

Complete a registration form & bring it to you the day of the Lectures.  Space will be available on a first come first serve basis so plan to arrive early if you have not already mailed in your registration.  You may also contact either me or my partner via email from the website to let us know you are interested in attending & we will add you to our reservations list.   Payment will be due at check-in.
 
 Due to a plumbing issue with our original venue we have had to change locations.  The lectures will now be held at  The John G Shedd Institue for the Arts  http://www.ofam.org .  For directions, parking, hotel and restaurant information visit the links page on our website.
 
 I look forward to meeting new people, visiting with old friends and having the rare and wonderful opportunity to hear two amazing speakers do what they do best.  
 
 See you all next weekend.  
       
---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking names in early textile research
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Status: RO


On Oct 14, 2007, at 3:59 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> Passing along a question from a friend that I can't answer myself:
> Can anyone point me to which researchers would be the "name"  
> specialists studying and publishing about textiles from the Near  
> East and Aegean from the fourth and third centuries B.C.?
>
> I know there are plenty of people in pre-medieval periods, but  
> because it's not my own area, I can't remember which scholars  
> specialize in which periods and places, and I'd rather not e-mail  
> all of them to find out.
>
> This is to help a student working in a related material culture  
> area in the period of Alexander the Great.

I'm not sure that there are enough textiles surviving from that  
period to support a focused expert.  The only textile that comes to  
mind from that narrow window are some fragments found in an elaborate  
box in a tomb supposed to be that of Philip of Macedon.  (The  
identification may be more certain than I'm making it sound.)  This  
is discussed in Flury-Lemberg's _Textile Conservation and Reserach_  
and mentioned in an article in _Athens Annals of Archaeology_  
discussing the site in general (there's an offprint of this article  
available as:  Andronikos, M..  1980.  Royal Graves at Vergina.   
Athens Annals of Archaeology, Athens.)

Somewhat earlier than that target period, but possible also relevant  
are some textiles from the burial known as "the hero of Lefkandi",  
which is mentioned in Barber's _Prehistoric Textiles_, as well as in  
Popham, Mervyn, E. Touloupa & L.H. Sackett. 1982. "The hero of  
Lefkandi" in Antiquity 56:169-174.

I'm almost hesitant to suggest Barber as a _specialist_ in this  
topic, since she covers such a broad territory, but she probably  
comes closest to fitting the description of anyone I'm familiar with.

Heather

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Paternoster beads: medieval dress accessory
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Status: RO

For anyone interested who hasn't already heard about it, my booklet  
"Bedes Byddyng: Medieval Rosaries and Paternoster Beads" has been  
published (finally!) as issue #135 of the Compleat Anachronist (an  
SCA quarterly). It's  available at $4.50 per copy at: https:// 
secure.sca.org/cgi-bin/stockclerk/ca.html (Go to page 14 of the site  
and scroll down)

This is a short introduction to the history of rosary beads (mostly  
Christian ones), along with a look at the social history: what  
materials were used for beads, threads and accessories; numbers and  
significance of beads; how rosaries were made, sold, worn, and used;  
and a few pointers on how to tell whether a string of beads is a  
rosary or not. There is also an appendix with full instructions on  
making a rather generic set of medieval-style beads.

It was stressful to write, but satisfying. I hadn't seen it since I  
turned in the manuscript six months ago, and I am now grimacing over  
the usual quota of typos, formatting mistakes and bits of authorial  
disorganization that made it into the printed version. I'll do better  
next time: but I'm happy to have it to offer.

I'd be interested in anyone's comments (on or off list) once you've  
read it.

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Paternoster beads: medieval dress accessory
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Status: RO

I get CA and I found it useful & informative, thanks so much!

Ceit

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Chris Laning
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 12:19 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Paternoster beads: medieval dress accessory

For anyone interested who hasn't already heard about it, my booklet =20
"Bedes Byddyng: Medieval Rosaries and Paternoster Beads" has been =20
published (finally!) as issue #135 of the Compleat Anachronist (an =20
SCA quarterly). It's  available at $4.50 per copy at: https://=20
secure.sca.org/cgi-bin/stockclerk/ca.html (Go to page 14 of the site =20
and scroll down)

This is a short introduction to the history of rosary beads (mostly =20
Christian ones), along with a look at the social history: what =20
materials were used for beads, threads and accessories; numbers and =20
significance of beads; how rosaries were made, sold, worn, and used; =20
and a few pointers on how to tell whether a string of beads is a =20
rosary or not. There is also an appendix with full instructions on =20
making a rather generic set of medieval-style beads.

It was stressful to write, but satisfying. I hadn't seen it since I =20
turned in the manuscript six months ago, and I am now grimacing over =20
the usual quota of typos, formatting mistakes and bits of authorial =20
disorganization that made it into the printed version. I'll do better =20
next time: but I'm happy to have it to offer.

I'd be interested in anyone's comments (on or off list) once you've =20
read it.

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:47:14 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: what's the dressmakers dummy wearing
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Status: RO

Hooooray!

Firstly -- it's _there_ and it _almost_ resembles my measurements! (I
thought that was impossible).

Secondly, it's not wearing much, just a few pins which have been left in
there.
But in the course of this night, it had to wear all kinds of clothes that I
made years ago, to show me what a difference it would have made if I had had
it then.

Thirdly, it helped me design 2 foundation garments, to make the patterns for
them.

And how will I clean up the sewing room by the weekend when it has to be
guest room for our visitor?!

Happy, happy, happy

B arbara M a r ein
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Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:28:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paternoster beads: medieval dress accessory
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Congratulations, Chris!!

I look forward to reading a copy. :-)

Kimiko


--- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:

> For anyone interested who hasn't already heard about
> it, my booklet  
> "Bedes Byddyng: Medieval Rosaries and Paternoster
> Beads" has been  
> published (finally!) as issue #135 of the Compleat
> Anachronist (an  
> SCA quarterly).


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Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 00:15:39 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking names in early textile research
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Status: RO

On Oct 14, 2007, at 3:59 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>> This is to help a student working in a related material culture
>> area in the period of Alexander the Great.

Heather said:>I'm not sure that there are enough textiles surviving from that
period to support a focused expert.  The only textile that comes to
mind from that narrow window are some fragments found in an elaborate
box in a tomb supposed to be that of Philip of Macedon.  (The
identification may be more certain than I'm making it sound.)  This
is discussed in Flury-Lemberg's _Textile Conservation and Reserach_
and mentioned in an article in _Athens Annals of Archaeology_
discussing the site in general (there's an offprint of this article
available as:  Andronikos, M..  1980.  Royal Graves at Vergina.
Athens Annals of Archaeology, Athens.)

I suspect that might be Dr. Manolis Andronikos, the book I have of his
notes him at Univ of Thessalonika.  If it's the textile, I'm thinking
of, it is/was burnt offering grave goods, purple & gold (the metal)
but was not intended at clothing.  It can be seen in the Museum of
Thessaloniki.  It's a nifty piece of work.  I never did find a catalog
with a color photo.

The other Greek archaeologist I'd try as a starting point is Dr. Nicos
Papahatzis, but I'm sure he's long since retired.  As a starting
point, in seeking him or his collegues out, look for his work
annotating Pausanius' "Description of Greece".  He too was associated
with the Univ of Thessalonika, but the stuff I have of his related
only to sites in the Pelaponnesus.

There are zillions are digs throughout the country, but no one ever
publishes pics of the ratty scraps of textile.  Tourists & art
historians alike want the marbles, frescoes, useful household goods &
shiny jewelry.  The Vergina & nearby digs were particularly full of
shiny gold silver bronze bits.  Beautiful coronets, necklaces & even
thigh bands.  Exquisite armor.  Tableware.

Happy hunting!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Farthingale Calculator
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Status: RO

Sorry for the cross-posting, however, for anyone interested, I have
updated the Farthingale Calculator to allow you to choose the number of
boning rows.  Additionally, the calculator has moved.  To access it,
please go to http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/tools.html.

For anyone not familiar with the Farthingale Calculator, I set up a
program to determine for you both the circumference of each row of
boning and the length from the waist for each row for a farthingale.
The length for the first row of boning will be twice the distance
between any two rows, to allow the wearer to sit comfortably.
Additionally, these calculations do not take in to account a bumroll,
if worn under the farthingale.

The program doesn't seem to work with certain versions of IE. However,
for IE 7 users, there is a solution on the user end to make the program
work. If you go to Tools, Internet Options, Security, Custom Level, and
set "Allow websites to prompt using scripted windows" to enable, the
program works just fine. Somehow, setting it to temporarily allow this
doesn't cut it.

Thanks and happy sewing!

Margaret Roe


       
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Subject: [h-cost] S&ANQ Her Majesty's Costume collection, samplers,
	Elizabeth R
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Status: RO

Just wanted to let you know two things...

Part One (of four parts) of Sharon's newest project Stumpwork Mirror Surround 
appears in Sampler & Antique Needlework Quarterly - Vol 48, Fall 2007

This week there are 9 Ebay auctions for ORIGINAL needleworks stitched by 
Sharon Cohen of Nostalgic Needle.  These are the original designer models (one of 
a kind) that were stitched and photographed for the needlework patterns of the 
same names.

This week Sharon has the following 9 items up for auction:

- 2 framed samplers: 
       Golden Acorn (ebay Item number: 250176755747) 
       Random Motif (ebay Item number: 250176750557) 

- 3 separate auctions for the pieces in Her Majesty's Costume Collection 
       Her Majesty's Glove Scissor Case (Ebay item number: 250176777015)  
       Her Majesty's Coif Needlebook (Ebay Item 250176771367) 
       Her Majesty's Night Cap Pincushion (Ebay Item number: 250176767782) 

- Portrait of Elizabeth R (Ebay item number: 250176760980)

- 3 separate auctions for the pieces of the Sampler Posy Collection Perfect 
for a pincushion, ornament, or gift these pieces have opening bid price of ONLY 
$9 
       
       Rose Sampler Posy stitched by Sharon Cohen (item #: 250176751281)
       Honeysuckle Sampler Posy stitched by Sharon Cohen (#: 250176752192)
       Carnation Sampler Posy stitched by Sharon Cohen ( #: 250176752722) 


 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 06:42:00 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume curator position
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Status: RO


Here's a rare opening:

http://chronicle.com/jobs/id.php?id=3D0000528831-01&pg=3De

It requires significant curatorial experience, which makes sense, but good =
luck in finding someone with an "advanced degree in costume history."

I got this off a public list, so feel free to forward to lists for 19th-20t=
h c. costume history.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required  
to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot of  
discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions.  I  learned 
(Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white  tie 
and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux.  A man in black tie  and tails 
would be a servant ie butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a lot of 
research contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white 
vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos, black 
vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for servants 
and all other permutations.  The research they have found is  secondary, 
meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.  Have I been wrong 
all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedos were not 
considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were required for those 
occasions, although I do understand  that this convention gradually faded away.  Can 
someone elucidate me?
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

I think Miss Manners has covered the evolution of tails and the tuxedo--try one of her earlier etiquette books.? Tuxedos were definitely "informal" when first developed, so your characters should probably be wearing tails.? I think the white tie and tails had been codified by then, to include the starched front shirt and white pique waistcoat, but I could be wrong.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Cheryldee@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:32 am
Subject: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests



My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required  
to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot of  
discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions.  I  
learned 
(Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white  tie 
and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux.  A man in black tie  and tails 

would be a servant ie butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a lot of 
research contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white 
vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos, black 
vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for servants 
and all other permutations.  The research they have found is  secondary, 
meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.  Have I been 
wrong 
all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedos were not 
considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were required for those 
occasions, although I do understand  that this convention gradually faded away.  
Can 
someone elucidate me?
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe



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Subject: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
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Status: RO

Greetings,

I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next week. Which museums 
are the most interesting for costumes and textiles and are there 
shops that are a must-see? I am especially interested in everything 
related to the middle ages, but I like all other costumes as well.

Thank you so much for your recommendations,

Hanna

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Subject: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century
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Status: RO



When asked by a customer I was unable to answer her question, in 
spite of having looked at various fashion plates of the late 18th 
century (1770's). The one book I don't have in the Batsford series of 
"Gloves/Shawls/Shoes/Bags" is of course gloves. Can anyone tell me if 
ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking high status, without 
being at court. If you have written or text proof I would really 
appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the fashion plates are not 
really helpful. They show them being worn with court dress and with 
full dress, but I cannot find anything that says "Ball dress!)

Thanks for any help.

Suzi

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century
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Status: RO

I will look at my copy of that, you do mean the Eunis Close book in the
Batsford series, yes?

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 11:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century



When asked by a customer I was unable to answer her question, in 
spite of having looked at various fashion plates of the late 18th 
century (1770's). The one book I don't have in the Batsford series of 
"Gloves/Shawls/Shoes/Bags" is of course gloves. Can anyone tell me if 
ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking high status, without 
being at court. If you have written or text proof I would really 
appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the fashion plates are not 
really helpful. They show them being worn with court dress and with 
full dress, but I cannot find anything that says "Ball dress!)

Thanks for any help.

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Does anyone know anything about this book?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani

Zuzana

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:20:03 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
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Status: RO

On display last year at the Danish National=20
Historical Museum, there were some lovely copes=20
and embroidery, some tapestries, "Eric of=20
Pommerania's" belt (probably actually a woman's),=20
some nice medieval shoes and pattens and some of=20
the Greenland finds. I do not remember seeing the gloves.

The Viking and earlier parts of the collection=20
were closed. They will reopen next year.

We did not have a lot of time in Copenhagen=20
(spent more over on Jutland) due to a foul-up on=20
flights by AA, but we will be going back in the=20
next couple of years (possibly next year for NESAT).

Beth

At 01:01 PM 10/17/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:00:30 -0500
>From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <471631c8.4301360a.0569.ffffaa95@mx.google.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
>
>Ooo ... well, start here ...
>http://www.world66.com/europe/denmark/copenhagen/museums
>
>But if you go to Nationalmuseet, Danmarks Middelalder og Ren=E6ssance, in
>Copenhagen please take pictures of the gloves that are there for me!! :D
>
>If they are not on display ask if you can be allowed to see them for a
>researcher in the US.
>
>They found a bunch of them in the moats that were filled in. They speculate
>that the moats were filled in around 1625 so the gloves they found there
>could be from pre 1600. But I gotta see them to really date them=
 accurately.
>:)
>
>Thanks!
>Chiara Francesca
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
>
>Greetings,
>
>I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next week. Which museums
>are the most interesting for costumes and textiles and are there
>shops that are a must-see? I am especially interested in everything
>related to the middle ages, but I like all other costumes as well.
>
>Thank you so much for your recommendations,
>
>Hanna

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century
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Status: RO

At 19:01 17/10/2007, you wrote:
>I will look at my copy of that, you do mean the Eunis Close book in the
>Batsford series, yes?
>
>Chiara Francesca
>
>

I think so - as I don't have it I don't actually know!! (But I have 
your nice little book on glove making - very helpful for the making side.)

Suzi



>When asked by a customer I was unable to answer her question, in
>spite of having looked at various fashion plates of the late 18th
>century (1770's). The one book I don't have in the Batsford series of
>"Gloves/Shawls/Shoes/Bags" is of course gloves. Can anyone tell me if
>ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking high status, without
>being at court. If you have written or text proof I would really
>appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the fashion plates are not
>really helpful. They show them being worn with court dress and with
>full dress, but I cannot find anything that says "Ball dress!)
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Suzi
>
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From: Sunshine Buchler <sunny_buchler@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

> My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are requir=
ed  =0A> to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot=
 of  =0A> discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occas=
ions.  I  learned =0A> (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the ru=
le of thumb is white  tie =0A> and vest with tails, black tie and vest with=
 tux.  A man in black tie  and tails =0A> would be a servant ie butler or w=
aiter.  So my students have  found a lot of =0A> research contrary to what =
my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white =0A> vest and black tie =
with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos, black =0A> vest and tie=
 with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for servants =0A> and=
 all other permutations.  The research they have found is  secondary, =0A> =
meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.  Have I b=
een wrong =0A> all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedo=
s were not =0A> considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were r=
equired for those =0A> occasions, although I do understand  that this conve=
ntion gradually faded away.  Can =0A> someone elucidate me?=0A=0ACheck out =
Farid Chenoune's A History of Men's Fashion. I believe (but it's been many =
years since I looked at this reasarch) that it's just around the turn of th=
e century (so 1897 counts :-) ) that the tux moved from informal wear to be=
ing accecptable evening wear (although still not de rigeur for extreamly fo=
rmal occasions). I'd recomenend Sarah Levitt's Fashion in Photographs 1880-=
1900 for photos of all different levels of formality for both upper-class E=
nglish men and women.=0A=0ASorry, I'm not at home, so I can't access my lib=
rary for the answers m'self :-S =0AHope this helps!=0A    -sunny
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

I have a page of information on 1890s men's evening attire that may be
helpful, it has no photographs (yet) but it has original period
illustrations:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1890_men.html

Also our dance group's 1890s costume page has a description of men's
evening attire at the bottom of this page:

http://www.vintagedancers.org/costume_1890.html

Some general guidelines:
In the 1890s the tuxedo was very new, and considered as more informal
evening wear.

With tails, white ties seem to be pretty much universal, but both
white and black vests are seen, and they are usually cut fairly low.
Cummerbunds were not yet in fashion.

Collars are generally stand-up collars though occasionally a fold-over
(or very early wing tip) collars are seen, though they are pretty
rare.

Vest waistlines were not yet pointed, and ideally should not protrude
below the bottom of the tailcoat front.  This requires higher
waistlines on the trousers, closer to the natural waist than modern
fashions, for proper coverage (one of the hardest details to reproduce
using modern trousers, and modern men's ideas of where their waists
actually are:~).

Katy

On 10/17/07, Cheryldee@aol.com <Cheryldee@aol.com> wrote:
> My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required
> to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot of
> discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions.  I  learned
> (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white  tie
> and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux.  A man in black tie  and tails
> would be a servant ie butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a lot of
> research contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white
> vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos, black
> vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for servants
> and all other permutations.  The research they have found is  secondary,
> meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.  Have I been wrong
> all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedos were not
> considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were required for those
> occasions, although I do understand  that this convention gradually faded away.  Can
> someone elucidate me?
>
> Cheryl Odom
> College of Santa Fe
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

Isn't Kevin on this list?  Maybe not.  I know his name from theatre.  I 
heard him speak at a USITT conference several years ago.  He was quite 
knowledgeable.  I would be interested in reading this book.

Sylrog

On Oct 17, 2007, at 12:11 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Does anyone know anything about this book?
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani
>
> Zuzana
>
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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 23:28:44 +0100 (BST)
From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hi,

I second the suggestion for the National Museum. If
you're interested in replica medieval and viking age
jewellery, there are Museum Kopi Smykker
(http://www.museum-jewelry.dk/default.asp) in
Grønnegade, a stone's throw from Strøget/Kongens
Nytorv, and Raudi, in Laederstrade 31, parallel to
Strøget. 

If you have time, I'd also recommend taking the train
to Sweden, to the Kulturen museum in Lund
(http://www.kulturen.com) which has a great medieval
exhibition. Medieval eccleastical textiles* are found
in the Lunds Universitets Historiska Museum
(http://www.luhm.lu.se/). The cathedral is also nice.

You can e-mail me privately if you want non-textile
tips for the region.

*: http://www.luhm.lu.se/Skrud%20eng.html


/Lena



--- Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de> wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next
> week. Which museums 
> are the most interesting for costumes and textiles
> and are there 
> shops that are a must-see? I am especially
> interested in everything 
> related to the middle ages, but I like all other
> costumes as well.
> 
> Thank you so much for your recommendations,
> 
> Hanna
> 
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> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



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Status: RO

I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg

Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer  
this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the  
converging triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I  
think I see it, but I'm not sure.

Thanks to anyone who can help!

Margo Anderson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

I didn't thing tuxedos came in for evening wear until about the 1920s.   
They look wrong to me for 1890s.

Sylrog

On Oct 17, 2007, at 8:44 AM, annbwass@aol.com wrote:

> I think Miss Manners has covered the evolution of tails and the  
> tuxedo--try one of her earlier etiquette books.? Tuxedos were  
> definitely "informal" when first developed, so your characters should  
> probably be wearing tails.? I think the white tie and tails had been  
> codified by then, to include the starched front shirt and white pique  
> waistcoat, but I could be wrong.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cheryldee@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:32 am
> Subject: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
>
>
>
> My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are  
> required
> to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot of
> discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions.  
>  I
> learned
> (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is  
> white  tie
> and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux.  A man in black tie   
> and tails
>
> would be a servant ie butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a  
> lot of
> research contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of  
> white
> vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos,  
> black
> vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for  
> servants
> and all other permutations.  The research they have found is   
> secondary,
> meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.   
> Have I been
> wrong
> all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedos were not
> considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were required for  
> those
> occasions, although I do understand  that this convention gradually  
> faded away.
> Can
> someone elucidate me?
>
> Cheryl Odom
> College of Santa Fe
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at  
> http://www.aol.com
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<200710171500.l9HExwv3028769@net.indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:00:30 -0500
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Status: RO

Ooo ... well, start here ...
http://www.world66.com/europe/denmark/copenhagen/museums

But if you go to Nationalmuseet, Danmarks Middelalder og Ren=E6ssance, =
in
Copenhagen please take pictures of the gloves that are there for me!! :D

If they are not on display ask if you can be allowed to see them for a
researcher in the US.

They found a bunch of them in the moats that were filled in. They =
speculate
that the moats were filled in around 1625 so the gloves they found there
could be from pre 1600. But I gotta see them to really date them =
accurately.
:)

Thanks!
Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 10:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen

Greetings,

I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next week. Which museums=20
are the most interesting for costumes and textiles and are there=20
shops that are a must-see? I am especially interested in everything=20
related to the middle ages, but I like all other costumes as well.

Thank you so much for your recommendations,

Hanna

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:42:53 +0200
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Status: RO

If you are mostly interrested in the medieval period, you should go to the 
Nationalmuseet where they have the Greenland find clothes on wiev.
Also a trip to the Bymuseet, the (city museum) has a lot of things from 
medieval Copenhagen.
Museum of decorative arts is very nice with old textiles and also Rosenborg 
Castle is worth a visit.
Rosenborg was build early 1600 and has manny beautifull interriors.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hanna Zickermann" <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Where to go to in Copenhagen


> Greetings,
>
> I am going on a three-day trip to Copenhagen next week. Which museums are 
> the most interesting for costumes and textiles and are there shops that 
> are a must-see? I am especially interested in everything related to the 
> middle ages, but I like all other costumes as well.
>
> Thank you so much for your recommendations,
>
> Hanna
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c1c.20918868.3447770b@aol.com>	<200710171500.l9HExwv3028769@net.indra.com>	<7.0.1.0.2.20071017170233.03464e68@suziclarke.co.uk>	<47164e05.0313360a.6261.ffffd9e3@mx.google.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:17:07 -0500
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Status: RO

Thank you! Always nice to hear feedback on my booklet. :D

I will read the other tonight and get back to you when I get home from work.
:)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century

At 19:01 17/10/2007, you wrote:
>I will look at my copy of that, you do mean the Eunis Close book in the
>Batsford series, yes?
>
>Chiara Francesca
>
>

I think so - as I don't have it I don't actually know!! (But I have 
your nice little book on glove making - very helpful for the making side.)

Suzi



>When asked by a customer I was unable to answer her question, in
>spite of having looked at various fashion plates of the late 18th
>century (1770's). The one book I don't have in the Batsford series of
>"Gloves/Shawls/Shoes/Bags" is of course gloves. Can anyone tell me if
>ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking high status, without
>being at court. If you have written or text proof I would really
>appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the fashion plates are not
>really helpful. They show them being worn with court dress and with
>full dress, but I cannot find anything that says "Ball dress!)
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Suzi
>
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Status: RO

Cheryl,
I've fretted about this before with unsatisfactory results.  My latest
treasure trove to dig in, and this is for a period later than yours,
is the LOC archive of dance manuals  www.loc.gov.  Several of them
have photos of famous dance teachers in their most formal evening
wear.  I'm interested in the ragtime dance craze just prior to WWI.
I'm also interested in mens' wear for the 1920s dance & by the 20s,
well things had changed, but all that's outside your era of interest.

Anyway, try the LOC dance manuals. I havent been looking in the 1890s
books.  Also, RLShep has a large catalog of reprints of turn of the
previous century tailor's manuals.  I'd believe the writing of an
1890s tailor over Esquire magazine. While both are motivated to sell
clothes, at least the guy from 1890 was there at the time of interest.

'Luck!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are
required to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been
a lot of discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various
occasions.  I  learned (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that
the rule of thumb is white  tie and vest with tails, black tie and
vest with tux.  A man in black tie  and tails would be a servant ie
butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a lot of research
contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white
vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos,
black vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken
 for servants and all other permutations.  The research they have
found is secondary, meaning drawings from the period rather than
actual  photographs.

Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting for all 
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:03:25 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

It's a book about books [and journals, and patterns] -- aside from  
his introduction, I imagine it's mainly an annotated bibliography.   
Useful for directing further research... but I didn't get the  
impression that it's a cutter's manual.  It would be a good purchase  
for a library; whether Zuzana would find it useful is another  
question since it covers "American, English, and other".

... I just looked it up in my library's catalog.  We own a copy!  And  
I'd never paid any attention.  I'll post a review tomorrow [I'm at  
home now].
Suzanne

On Oct 17, 2007, at 4:44 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>
> Isn't Kevin on this list?  Maybe not.  I know his name from  
> theatre.  I heard him speak at a USITT conference several years  
> ago.  He was quite knowledgeable.  I would be interested in reading  
> this book.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Oct 17, 2007, at 12:11 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know anything about this book?
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani
>>
>> Zuzana
>>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:30:35 -0400
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 17 October 2007, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I didn't thing tuxedos came in for evening wear until about the 1920s.
> They look wrong to me for 1890s.

Ann's right; tuxedos were originally a kind of informal wear; they did not 
become formal wear until the 1920s.   Unfortunately, I don't remember enough 
to be more detailed than that.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Status: RO

I could tell you for nineteenth century, but not
earlier.  (yes.)

Check out the dance manual link that someone recently
posted on the Library of Congress site--I remember
looking there at 17th and 19th century manuals, so
perhaps they had some from the 18th as well.

Ann in CT

--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me if 
> ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking
> high status, without 
> being at court. If you have written or text proof I
> would really 
> appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the
> fashion plates are not 
> really helpful. They show them being worn with court
> dress and with 
> full dress, but I cannot find anything that says
> "Ball dress!)
> 
> Suzi

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Status: RO

>> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani 

>>I would be interested in reading this book.

Picked this up years ago at the Smithsonian, so the "review" will have lots of dust on the memory...

It's not something that is read.  It is literally lists and lists of sources on where the information is.  It would help you locate obscure sources if you're into extreme research.... or you needed complete situations on books and sources that you didn't have at your fingertips (like you're xeroxed from old book years ago and lost the full cites)

This is just IMHO, and though a cobwebbed memory.

-Cat-

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:37:27 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

=20
In a message dated 10/17/2007 8:34:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

Ann's  right; tuxedos were originally a kind of informal wear; they did not=20=
=20
become formal wear until the 1920s.   Unfortunately, I don't  remember enoug=
h=20
to be more detailed than  that.




**************
=20
This is what I remember too. And in the teens you might see a real mix, the=20=
=20
older men in older styles, the young men in tuxes.
=20
Here is what it says on "Definitions of the clothing & Textile  industry:"
=20
=20
The American name tuxedo is taken from Tuxedo Park, New York, a  private clu=
b=20
of country houses founded by Pierre Lorillard, the tobacco heir.  (The town=20
of Tuxedo and Tuxedo Park themselves were named by the Lenni-Lenape  Indians=
,=20
who called the largest lake in the area tucseto, meaning either  place of th=
e=20
bear or clear flowing water.) =20
Traditionally, the first Autumn Ball, held at the Tuxedo Club in October =20
1886, marked the official first American appearance of the English dinner =20
jacket, which was favored by the fast sporting crowd round the Prince of Wal=
es,  who=20
liked to wear a "Cowes" jacket, somewhat like a formal mess jacket, first at=
 =20
dinner aboard his yacht during the regattas held at _Cowes_=20
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowes) , and then later at other  evening ente=
rtainments, though=20
never in London. The original single- breasted  model was simply a tailcoat=20
without a tail, worn with a white piqu=E9 vest as  would be worn with a tail=
coat,=20
then later with a black vest ensuite with the  jacket and trousers.=20
At the 1886 Tuxedo Park Autumn Ball, Pierre Lorillard's young son Griswold =20
Lorillard and his friends startled guests, all in white tie and tailcoats, b=
y =20
wearing the new English dinner jackets, with scarlet evening vests. The=20
tailless  coats were similar in cut to hunting pinks worn in daytime at foxh=
unting=20
meets.  When after 1889, gentlemen in "tuxedos" were even admitted to the Dr=
ess=20
Circle  at the new Metropolitan Opera, the success of the new fashion was=20
made.=20
=20
=20
=20
A Tuxedo Park insider recalls a different story of the  Tuxedo Park=20
introduction of black tie, told him in the 1920s by Grenville Kane,  the las=
t founding=20
member of the Tuxedo Club. Kane remembered that it had been  James Brown=20
Potter who, after staying with the Prince of Wales at Sandringham in  the su=
mmer of=20
1886, brought back the new fashion to Tuxedo and introduced it to  the=20
members of the club =20
The American upper classes now generally prefer the terms "black tie" or =20
"dinner jacket" to "tuxedo", which is considered slightly vulgar.=20
Early evening clothes were uniformly black. The Duke of Windsor, when Prince=
 =20
of Wales, introduced midnight blue as an appropriate color, and even made th=
e=20
 double-breasted dinner jacket acceptable.=20
The waist sash called cummerbund (or cumberbund) was borrowed  after World=20
War I, from military dress in British _India_=20
(http://www.apparelsearch.com/World_Clothing_Industry/India/india.htm) .







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:48:17 +0200
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Hi Suzi
I got a wonderfull book this summer in Rome with prints from Morreau le 
Jeunne and Freiberg. It is old prints about the fashion. In manny of the 
prints, ladies are wearing gloves.
Also i can tell that the german reenactor ladies i visited this september 
used gloves in the evening at the danse soiré, i know this is no proof, but 
i know these ladies are very pickky about authentity..so.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 6:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Gloves in the 18th century


>
>
> When asked by a customer I was unable to answer her question, in spite of 
> having looked at various fashion plates of the late 18th century (1770's). 
> The one book I don't have in the Batsford series of 
> "Gloves/Shawls/Shoes/Bags" is of course gloves. Can anyone tell me if 
> ladies wore gloves when dancing - we are talking high status, without 
> being at court. If you have written or text proof I would really 
> appreciate a pointer in that direction, as the fashion plates are not 
> really helpful. They show them being worn with court dress and with full 
> dress, but I cannot find anything that says "Ball dress!)
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <430007.95863.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com><c6111a73f045c71731df6eed69f9eab8@ntw.net>
	<EAC806FA-E8F5-4610-8277-CE9F58B79759@margospatterns.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 03:14:33 -0400
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Status: RO

I was unable to pull up the webpage but I do seem to remember such a button
on other pictures.  If I can find anything else, I will let you know.  

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image

I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg

Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer  
this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the  
converging triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I  
think I see it, but I'm not sure.

Thanks to anyone who can help!

Margo Anderson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
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Status: RO

At 00:47 18/10/2007, you wrote:
>I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this 
>image:  http:// 
>commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg
>
>Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer
>this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the
>converging triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I
>think I see it, but I'm not sure.
>
>Thanks to anyone who can help!
I can't get the image to show up, but when I made my gable hood for 
the Museum of London, I did not "see" a button." the shape of the 
"pleats" on the box were formed simply by taking a tuck cross wise - 
it is a bit lumpy where the pleats cross, and it certainly looked 
pretty accurate, according to the Holbein drawing.

Suzi

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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 10:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/17/2007 8:42:17 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:


Ann's  right; tuxedos were originally a kind of informal wear;  they did not  
become formal wear until the 1920s.    Unfortunately, I don't  remember 
enough 
to be more detailed  than  that.






Actually, tuxedos started as a form of "infomal" formal wear, worn at  
gentlemen's clubs before 1900.  At least that is my understanding.
 
Cheryl Odom, poster of the original question



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In my never-ending search for groovy buttons, I found this site:
 
 
 
_Click here: Horn Bone Buttons Natural  Horn Buttons Horn Toggles buttons 
Belts india_ (http://ganmbuttons.com/)  



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From: Traci <traci@crimsonvision.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buttons
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Status: RO

Speaking of buttons; I'm on the lookout for some specific ones and though
everyone on here might be able to help.  They look sort of like a 4 sided
shield button with a tall point in the middle.  Here is a little collage I
made of them; hopefully you can see the details well enough to get an idea
of their shape:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a106/A_Dark_Horse/buttons.jpg

Any ideas on where I could get something like that in silver?

Thanks!
Elizabeta


On 10/18/07, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> In my never-ending search for groovy buttons, I found this site:
>
>
>
> _Click here: Horn Bone Buttons Natural  Horn Buttons Horn Toggles buttons
> Belts india_ (http://ganmbuttons.com/)
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO

Hi,
I made the muff wich i had embroidered. Now its done with initials two: =
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/DSC03435m.jpg

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buttons
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Status: RO

Oh...I forgot to include these guys...
 
_http://www.durangobutton.com/index.htm_ 
(http://www.durangobutton.com/index.htm) 



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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 11:26:40 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

AlbertCat,
I lost track of this thread.  Are you quoting _Cutting for All: The
Sartorial Arts_, Wikipedia or something else?  It's an interesting
story & one I hadnt heard in any kind of depth before, tho I find
myself in doubt give the anecdotal tales particularly those that dont
agree.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
**************

This is what I remember too. And in the teens you might see a real mix, the
older men in older styles, the young men in tuxes.

Here is what it says on "Definitions of the clothing & Textile  industry:"


The American name tuxedo is taken from Tuxedo Park, New York, a  private club
of country houses founded by Pierre Lorillard, the tobacco heir.  (The town
of Tuxedo and Tuxedo Park themselves were named by the Lenni-Lenape  Indians,
who called the largest lake in the area tucseto, meaning either  place of the
bear or clear flowing water.)...
<snip>
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From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <430007.95863.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com>	<c6111a73f045c71731df6eed69f9eab8@ntw.net>	<EAC806FA-E8F5-4610-8277-CE9F58B79759@margospatterns.com><7.0.1.0.2.20071018081104.03428cf0@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 13:41:52 -0500
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Status: RO

Looking at my copy of Holbein in England from the Tate, which has a decent 
but still too small image of this one, it looks like there's just not enough 
detail in the sketch itself to say for sure.  There's definitely something 
there, but it's just a sort of a v-shape where the lines meet, with shadow 
around it suggesting something that sticks out a bit.  It could be a lump 
where they meet, though that's not the shape that 4-finished-seams-meeting 
makes when I do it; it could be a button, though the sketch suggests a 
diamond-shaped ...whatever... and a self-fabric diamond-shaped button seems 
a bit odd.  It could be a covering patch, but in the sketch the ...thingy... 
is pretty 3D, and seems to stick out further than a patch would.

Sicne the British Museum (the sketch's home) makes it really difficult to 
link to database records:
http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/advanced_search.aspx
then search for <Holbein "two views"> and it'll be your only result.  Click 
on the small & then the medium image, and it'll take you to a pretty decent 
enlargement.

-E House




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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 15:29:07 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 10/18/2007 2:28:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

I lost  track of this thread.  Are you quoting _Cutting for All: The
Sartorial  Arts_,


*************
 
 
No. I just did a google of "Tuxedo"... or was it "Cummerbund,  history"?
 
anyway, it took me here:
 
_http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Clothing/Tuxedo_black_tie_definition
.htm_ 
(http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Clothing/Tuxedo_black_tie_definition.htm) 



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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 12:54:20 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: re: [h-cost] muff
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Status: RO

>Hi,
>I made the muff wich i had embroidered. Now its done with initials
two: >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/DSC03435m.jpg

Bjarne,
It's lovely, and you've made it with *my* initials.  Wonderful!  I
only which I could touch it.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 14:56:06 -0500
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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Status: RO

All,

Since some of you have asked...

I will not be running this again this year. It was fun last year and I 
enjoyed doing it, until it got to be January and some folks hadn't 
mailed out their exchanges yet. And then it got to be February and I was 
still chasing people. Then it came to be March and a couple folks never 
received anything from their partners.

So... if somebody else wants to pick this up and run with it, more power 
to you. You're welcome to it with my blessing, and I wish all 
participants a happy holiday of their choosing. :)



Dawn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 00:47 18/10/2007, you wrote:
>> I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
>> commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg
>>
>> Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer
>> this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the
>> converging triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I
>> think I see it, but I'm not sure.
>>
>> Thanks to anyone who can help!
> I can't get the image to show up, but when I made my gable hood for 
> the Museum of London, I did not "see" a button." the shape of the 
> "pleats" on the box were formed simply by taking a tuck cross wise - 
> it is a bit lumpy where the pleats cross, and it certainly looked 
> pretty accurate, according to the Holbein drawing.
>
> Suzi
>

Given the "front-back c1535" I'm guessing the picture is Holbein's 
drawing of an unknown English lady - try this link:  
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg    If you take the url 
back to ...tudor/ there's a great portfolio of pictures on this site. 

I can see what you mean, but I never saw it as a button before you 
suggested it, just the product of four triangles meeting.  There are so 
few pictures of the back of a gable hood, and with it always being black 
it's hard to confirm details!

Jean


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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 13:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting for all
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yeah, I thought it might be just a huge book with many links and sources... well, what I'm looking for, is anything about drafting and patterns. Historical methods and professional modern methods, on a rather higher level. Something like these Rundschau magazines I recently talked about...
Do you think it might be helpful for me? 

Zuzana

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From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tasha Tudor collection
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Status: RO

I just recieved the first issue of the new Victoria magazine, and =
there's an article devoted to Tasha Tudor's antique clothing collection. =
 Very pretty, mostly early 19th century dresses and jewelry.

Melusine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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THanks for your service, Dawn.  You did a great job--too bad not all  the 
participants cooperated.
 
I was just thinking I might sit out this year, anyway.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Oct 18 20:42:33 2007
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Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:14:31 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
In-reply-to: <4717915A.1020207@yahoo.co.uk>
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Status: RO

Jean Waddie wrote:
> I can see what you mean, but I never saw it as a button before you 
> suggested it, just the product of four triangles meeting.  There are 
> so few pictures of the back of a gable hood, and with it always being 
> black it's hard to confirm details! 

If you can stand one more word, there's a clearer image at 
http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_image.aspx?objectId=720891&partId=1&searchText=holbein&fromADBC=ad&toADBC=ad&orig=research%2fsearch_the_collection_database.aspx&currentPage=8&asset_id=31491
(or *http://tinyurl.com/yqemjv).*

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Denver Fabrics Newsletter - 10/16/07 - Great New Deals
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Status: RO

Here's the latest from the Denver Fabrics=20
liquidation sale.  I hope this is intelligible when it arrives.
Joan

>From: "Denver Fabrics " <df-mailroom@denverfabrics.com>
>Subject: Newsletter - 10/16/07 - Great New Deals
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 12:58:08 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>[]
>    <http://www.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>    <http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/denverstore/sewingcontact.htm>
>[]
>    <http://blog.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>No Coupon Code Needed
>[]
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DChalk>Chalk=20
>Cloth=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>Velour=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DSaf-col>Safety=20
>Colors
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-cha>Charmeuse=20
>Satin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/scrubs/nursing-scrubs.htm>Nursin=
g=20
>Scrubs=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DPE-Peachskin>Peachskin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Def-scdk>Scuba=20
>Double-Knit
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCtPq>Cotton=20
>Pique=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/oilcloth-tablecloth.htm>Oilcloth=
=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DLEbr>Pleather=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dct-seer>Seersucker=20
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DLEbr>Faux=20
>Leather=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-org>Organza=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-chi>Poly=20
>Chiffon=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DStrLa>Stretch=20
>Lace
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DStrFish>Fishnet=20
>Mesh=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dct-osna>Osnaburg=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dct-rnwr>Rainwear=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DStrMe>Stretch=20
>Mesh
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DWick>Wickaway=20
>
>
>
>[]
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCT-Afri>African=20
>Prints=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-cre>Crepe-Back=20
>Satin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-sa>Peau=20
>de=20
>Soie=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DCTTG-Ly>Stretch=20
>Twills
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DPC-Pop>Blazer=20
>Poplin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCTDE>Denim=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DBR-Taf>Poly=20
>Taffeta=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DSUP>Supplex=20
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCTDE-Bull>Bull=20
>Denim=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DPCeyelet>Eyelet=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DRay-jer>Rayon=20
>Jersey=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3Dct-swfl>Sweatshirt=20
>Fleece
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCamo>Camouflage=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/flannel.htm>Flannel=20
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/shirtings.htm>Shirting=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCT-In>T-Shirt=20
>Knits
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DCT-CO>Corduroy=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>Prints=20
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>Chiffon=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/apparel-prints.htm>Cotton=20
>Prints=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>Habotai=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>Knits=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DPOMole>Moleskin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DRA-Solids>Rayons=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Def-trve>Triple=20
>Velvet
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DVelour>Cotton/Poly=20
>Velour=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DStrno>Novelty=20
>Mesh=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DCTTG-Ly>Stretch=20
>Twill=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dunisat>Uniform=20
>Satin
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DPACK>Packcloth=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DStril>Stretch=20
>Illusion
>
>
>[]
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DAthFab>Athletic=20
>Uniform=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>=20
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>Prints=20
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>&=20
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/swimwear/swimwear.htm>Swimwear=
=20
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>=20
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>Batiks=20
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de=3D001&Category_Code=3DTE-solids>Tencel=20
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dct-lawn>Cotton=20
>Lawn=20
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>Satin
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dbr-fail>Faille=20
>Back=20
>Satin=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dct-ornt>Oriental=20
>Prints=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/slinky.htm>Slinky=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DHoloMet>Metallic=20
>
>
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Ddf>
>[]
>
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DSIr-cd>
>[]
>
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3Dwo-misc>
>[]
>
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
_Code=3DUPHFAB>
>[]
>
>
>[]
>
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DOTWVel>Rayon=20
>& Misc Velvet
>$4.98=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DRuBack>Rug=20
>Backing
>$4.98=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DBIQpc>Broadcloth=20
>15 Yd
>Pieces=20
>$15.00=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Store_Co=
de=3D001&Category_Code=3DFR-solid>Faux=20
>Fur
>$6.98
>
>
>All Sales Are Final =B7 Sale offers Only Available on Our Web Site
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/>www.denverfabrics.com
>
>We are liquidating our inventory to make way for new owners.
>
>Offers not valid at our Littleton store, which is not being sold
>and will continue to serve its Colorado customers.
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>[]
>
>   We can help. Please let us know of any=20
> questions or concerns that you have.
>
>Denver Fabrics takes your security very=20
>seriously. We use only the most trusted services=20
>to ensure that your information is never=20
>vulnerable to hackers or other malicious=20
>attacks. In addition, we promise to never share=20
>or sell your information to anyone, for any=20
>reason. Go to our security questions page for=20
>more info -=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/security_orderform/fabric-securi=
ty-1.htm>here
>
>
>   email:
>=20
><mailto:customerservice@denverfabrics.com>customerservice@denverfabrics.com=
=20
>
>   web:
>   <http://www.denverfabrics.com/contact-us.php>contact form
>   coupon codes:
>=20
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/denverstore/HowToCoupons.htm>how=20
>to use coupon codes
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Oct 18 20:44:32 2007
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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 20:14:33 -0400
From: Ailith  <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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Status: RO

I'm sorry that the Gift Exchange won't be happening this year. Even though my gift didn't show up last year, I did get a tremendous gift the first year - a new friend. My Secret Santa and I have become friends and are hoping to actually meet each other next year at an SCA event. :-)

Thanks so much Dawn! I appreciate all the time you put into organizing the exchange.

With warmest regards,

kate

---- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote: 
> All,
> 
> Since some of you have asked...
> 
> I will not be running this again this year. It was fun last year and I 
> enjoyed doing it, until it got to be January and some folks hadn't 
> mailed out their exchanges yet. And then it got to be February and I was 
> still chasing people. Then it came to be March and a couple folks never 
> received anything from their partners.
> 
> So... if somebody else wants to pick this up and run with it, more power 
> to you. You're welcome to it with my blessing, and I wish all 
> participants a happy holiday of their choosing. :)
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <430007.95863.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com><c6111a73f045c71731df6eed69f9eab8@ntw.net>
	<EAC806FA-E8F5-4610-8277-CE9F58B79759@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:57:02 +1000
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Margo Anderson" <lists@margospatterns.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image


> I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
> commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg
>
> Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer  this 
> question:  Is there a round button at the center of the  converging 
> triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I  think I see it, 
> but I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks to anyone who can help!
>
> Margo Anderson

You may also want to have a look at this effigy 
http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/browse/view.asp?id=66 (the Tudor Effigies 
website is back and it has it's own domain) it shows a 3D image of a Gable 
hood you can see the back is basically the same (a box covered with 4 
triangles) and there's definitely no button on this one.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

>>Yeah, I thought it might be just a huge book with many links and sources... well, what I'm looking for, is anything about drafting and patterns. Historical methods and professional modern methods, on a rather higher level. Something like these Rundschau magazines I recently talked about...
Do you think it might be helpful for me? 

No information in the book on techniques.  Just list and lists of where to find information. (I missed the earlier discussion, sorry.)

-Cat-

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Status: RO

Ailith wrote:
> I'm sorry that the Gift Exchange won't be happening this year. Even though my gift didn't show up last year, I did get a tremendous gift the first year - a new friend. My Secret Santa and I have become friends and are hoping to actually meet each other next year at an SCA event. :-)
I wouldn't write it off so fast--maybe we'll have a volunteer! 

I had a blast last year and was looking forward to it this year.  
Normally I'd stick up my hand but the ol' plate's a little too full at 
the moment.

Susan


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Subject: [h-cost] Facsimile of Grimani Breviary, 1520
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Status: RO

I just received my Levenger catalog today and found that they are the 
exclusive sellers of a numbered edition of a facsimile of the Grimani 
Breviary (originally made for Domenico Cardinal Grimani of Venice in 
1520).  This edition reproduces 110 paintings in full color.  The 
price is $150 (there are only 2,000 numbered copies).  Here's the 
link to the book on Levenger's on-line catalog 
http://www.levenger.com/PAGETEMPLATES/PRODUCT/Product.asp?Params=Category=14|Level=2|pageid=5917|Link=Txt 
.  It sounds like a wonderful book.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 22:30:51 -0400
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Quoting Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@rogers.com>:

> Ailith wrote:
>> I'm sorry that the Gift Exchange won't be happening this year. Even  
>>  though my gift didn't show up last year, I did get a tremendous   
>> gift the first year - a new friend. My Secret Santa and I have   
>> become friends and are hoping to actually meet each other next year  
>>  at an SCA event. :-)
> I wouldn't write it off so fast--maybe we'll have a volunteer! I had a
> blast last year and was looking forward to it this year.  Normally I'd
> stick up my hand but the ol' plate's a little too full at the moment.
>

nods.  I hear you.  Getting started with the new job has taken up a  
lot more time than I'd anticipated.  Haven't had any time to even sew  
yet!  :-(

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO

I didn't even realise that, he he, it is a girl named Camilla Blom.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 9:54 PM
Subject: re: [h-cost] muff


> >Hi,
>>I made the muff wich i had embroidered. Now its done with initials
> two: >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/DSC03435m.jpg
> 
> Bjarne,
> It's lovely, and you've made it with *my* initials.  Wonderful!  I
> only which I could touch it.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: scarlettday@bellsouth.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tasha Tudor collection
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 13:00:55 +0000
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Status: RO

I'm glad Hearst magazines are bringing it back. I was greatly dissappointed when they quit printing it several years ago. I really enjoyed it before and hope to again.  I look to it for inspiration on several things on decorating as I have an early 1900's home. 

Catharine

-------------- Original message from "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>: -------------- 


> I just recieved the first issue of the new Victoria magazine, and there's an 
> article devoted to Tasha Tudor's antique clothing collection. Very pretty, 
> mostly early 19th century dresses and jewelry. 
> 
> Melusine 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tasha Tudor collection
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Status: RO

 Thanks for the news on the new Victoria. For those that miss the
original Victoria, it is now 6 instead of 12 issues a year. So the first
issue is Nov-Dec. You can subscribe online or wait for the 30th for it
to appear on newsstands. It will be $4.95 on newsstands.

Cindy Abel

=20
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I was hoping to try it again, even though I never received a gift, nor an a=
cknowledgment of the one I sent  (and chose not to follow up on it, assumin=
g it would be a lot of trouble for you!). But thanks for all your hard work=
,  I think it was a great idea!=0AMelissa Roberts=0A=0A=0A_________________=
_________________________________=0ADo You Yahoo!?=0ATired of spam?  Yahoo!=
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Status: RO

Dawn,
It's a pity some people have to spoil something wonderful by failing
to follow thru on their commitments.  Thank-you for running it (and
for doing the thankless job of pestering) both years.  It was as much
fun putting the gift boxes together, as it was to
receive a box of treasures,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Since some of you have asked...

I will not be running this again this year. It was fun last year and I
enjoyed doing it, until it got to be January and some folks hadn't
mailed out their exchanges yet. And then it got to be February and I was
still chasing people. Then it came to be March and a couple folks never
received anything from their partners.

So... if somebody else wants to pick this up and run with it, more power
to you. You're welcome to it with my blessing, and I wish all
participants a happy holiday of their choosing. :)

Dawn
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:55:31 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress
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Status: RO

Funny what your costumes are used for.
I found this movie clip, about the hauntings of a danish mannor house =
Sels=F8.
They use a dummy with my first francaise dress i made in 1979 as the =
ghost!
Sorry its danish.........
http://www.tv2regionerne.dk/video.asp?Id=3D372939

Bjarne
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <430007.95863.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com><c6111a73f045c71731df6eed69f9eab8@ntw.net><EAC806FA-E8F5-4610-8277-CE9F58B79759@margospatterns.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071018081104.03428cf0@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:06:40 -0400
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Status: RO

http://tinyurl.com/2qjknn 
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image


> At 00:47 18/10/2007, you wrote:
>>I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this 
>>image:  http:// 
>>commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg
>>
>>Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer
>>this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the
>>converging triangles on the black "box" on the back of her head? I
>>think I see it, but I'm not sure.
>>
>>Thanks to anyone who can help!
> I can't get the image to show up, but when I made my gable hood for 
> the Museum of London, I did not "see" a button." the shape of the 
> "pleats" on the box were formed simply by taking a tuck cross wise - 
> it is a bit lumpy where the pleats cross, and it certainly looked 
> pretty accurate, according to the Holbein drawing.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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...it would be here.

I'm looking for North American retailers/wholesalers of ramie cloth.  
For that matter, I'm interested in any vendor who ships to the US...

andy
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Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 20:43:50 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress
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In a message dated 10/19/2007 6:11:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Sorry  its danish.........



******
 
There's no need to apologize for Danish.
 
I love Danish....especially a cheese danish...   :-P



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:05:41 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress
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Status: RO

It's actually interesting how I can understand every shot even if it is in  
Danish. There are so many shows on like this in English.... British and  
American... that I could tell exactly what was going on and what people were  
saying. The medium.... like all such frauds... was very good. Give her an award!  
These ghost stories are so funny when taken seriously.
 
How did they end up with that gown anyway?
 
* * * * 
 
Back in 1979 I designed "The Three Penny Opera" as a senior design student.  
There is a brothel scene in which I put the girls in teddies, tap pants,  
chemises....all kinds of what was just then becoming trendy lingerie but  also 
period [we did it in WWI]
 
Last year I went to a show at my old college... another Brecht play: "The  
Good Woman of Szechwan". In one scene the actors are pinning up laundry on a  
line to dry. Up goes one of my outfits for the other Brecht show. Back stage I  
complimented the props designer for her superior taste in undies. She looked 
at  me sideway so I explained she had used something I had designed 30 years 
ago.  "Well, I got the Brecht feel right, I suppose". I quipped.
 
 But it's true, you never know where your costumes will end  up.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 23:45:20 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress
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Status: RO

One of my 16th Century gowns ended up on the cover of a re-enactor's supply
catalogue. Pretty funny.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 9:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress


It's actually interesting how I can understand every shot even if it is in
Danish. There are so many shows on like this in English.... British and
American... that I could tell exactly what was going on and what people were
saying. The medium.... like all such frauds... was very good. Give her an
award!
These ghost stories are so funny when taken seriously.

How did they end up with that gown anyway?

* * * *

Back in 1979 I designed "The Three Penny Opera" as a senior design student.
There is a brothel scene in which I put the girls in teddies, tap pants,
chemises....all kinds of what was just then becoming trendy lingerie but
also
period [we did it in WWI]

Last year I went to a show at my old college... another Brecht play: "The
Good Woman of Szechwan". In one scene the actors are pinning up laundry on a
line to dry. Up goes one of my outfits for the other Brecht show. Back stage
I
complimented the props designer for her superior taste in undies. She looked
at  me sideway so I explained she had used something I had designed 30 years
ago.  "Well, I got the Brecht feel right, I suppose". I quipped.

 But it's true, you never know where your costumes will end  up.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct 20 01:19:27 2007
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From: Charlene Charette <clclists1@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] If there's anybody who would know...
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Status: RO

Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> ...it would be here.
> 
> I'm looking for North American retailers/wholesalers of ramie cloth. For 
> that matter, I'm interested in any vendor who ships to the US...
> 
> andy


These might give you some leads:
http://www.teonline.com/fabrics/ramie-fabrics.html
http://www.fabrics-suppliers.com/ramie-fabric.htm


--Charlene


-- 
I contend that we are both atheists.  I just believe in one fewer god 
than you do.  When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible 
gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours. -- Stephen Henry Roberts 
(1901-71), historian
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 08:30:54 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress/Old Costumes revived
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Status: RO

At 02:05 20/10/2007, you wrote:
>It's actually interesting how I can understand every shot even if it is in
>Danish. There are so many shows on like this in English.... British and
>American... that I could tell exactly what was going on and what people were
>saying. The medium.... like all such frauds... was very good. Give 
>her an award!
>These ghost stories are so funny when taken seriously.
>
>How did they end up with that gown anyway?
>
>* * * *
>
>Back in 1979 I designed "The Three Penny Opera" as a senior design student.
>There is a brothel scene in which I put the girls in teddies, tap pants,
>chemises....all kinds of what was just then becoming trendy lingerie 
>but  also
>period [we did it in WWI]
>
>Last year I went to a show at my old college... another Brecht play: "The
>Good Woman of Szechwan". In one scene the actors are pinning up laundry on a
>line to dry. Up goes one of my outfits for the other Brecht show. 
>Back stage I
>complimented the props designer for her superior taste in undies. She looked
>at  me sideway so I explained she had used something I had designed 30 years
>ago.  "Well, I got the Brecht feel right, I suppose". I quipped.
>
>  But it's true, you never know where your costumes will end  up.
I made a pile of costumes for the IMAX movie they use at Hearst 
Castle (don't ask) about the life of W.R. Hearst. The clothes barely 
appear in the movie, but one of the outfits went from Cosprop (the 
supplier) to ABC Costumes, a hire house, to a school hire department 
- schools hire costumes from there for plays!

Suzi 

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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress/Old Costumes revived
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Status: RO

I had a friend who was a "Gone With the Wind"... and Walter Plunket... nut.  
We were watching "Raintree County" and during the ball scene he kept pointing  
out gowns, as they waltzed by in seconds, from  "GWTW"!!!!



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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d28.1767f41e.344b81c6@aol.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress/Old Costumes revived
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:31:33 -0400
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Status: RO

Your friend needs to get a life ROFL!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 12:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress/Old Costumes revived

I had a friend who was a "Gone With the Wind"... and Walter Plunket... nut.

We were watching "Raintree County" and during the ball scene he kept
pointing  
out gowns, as they waltzed by in seconds, from  "GWTW"!!!!



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct 20 21:03:37 2007
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:55:52 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: ISO scan of a Morris tapestry
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Status: RO

I'm looking for someone who has a better picture than I do of the  
19th-century tapestry from Morris & Co. called "Adoration of the  
Magi" (designed by E. Burne-Jones).

All the pictures I can find on the Internet are tiny (400 pixels or  
so) and all the details of the original are invisible. I need a  
better look at this, so if anyone has a book with a better picture in  
it, I'd love to hear about it. This was one of the most popular  
Morris tapestries, so I know there are examples out there and some of  
them have probably featured in books.

TIA
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c5b.1af01f47.344aae65@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 16:55:35 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
Yes you are right about this, and the bad thing about the ghost story at 
Selsø is that it dont fit with any of the persons who lived there.
There is a tale about a wife who killed her husband in the bed, because she 
was so jealoux about his life with other wimen, later that night she regreat 
her deal, and threw herself out of the window down into the water where she 
drowned. The story points out that it was the wife of a person who rebuilded 
the castle in the 1730ies, problem with that is that he was a widower, his 
wife died before him.
I can only laugh at such people who think they feels other things than the 
rest of us, they are not telling the trouth.

My dress ended at the castle because i gave it away to them, so they could 
exhibit. They needed things, because it was almost empty of interriors.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 3:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my very first francaise dress


> It's actually interesting how I can understand every shot even if it is in
> Danish. There are so many shows on like this in English.... British and
> American... that I could tell exactly what was going on and what people 
> were
> saying. The medium.... like all such frauds... was very good. Give her an 
> award!
> These ghost stories are so funny when taken seriously.
>
> How did they end up with that gown anyway?
>
> * * * *
>
> Back in 1979 I designed "The Three Penny Opera" as a senior design 
> student.
> There is a brothel scene in which I put the girls in teddies, tap pants,
> chemises....all kinds of what was just then becoming trendy lingerie but 
> also
> period [we did it in WWI]
>
> Last year I went to a show at my old college... another Brecht play: "The
> Good Woman of Szechwan". In one scene the actors are pinning up laundry on 
> a
> line to dry. Up goes one of my outfits for the other Brecht show. Back 
> stage I
> complimented the props designer for her superior taste in undies. She 
> looked
> at  me sideway so I explained she had used something I had designed 30 
> years
> ago.  "Well, I got the Brecht feel right, I suppose". I quipped.
>
> But it's true, you never know where your costumes will end  up.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <02EFD829-6A23-4D43-AECC-02BFFB046557@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] If there's anybody who would know...
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 09:15:33 -0400
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Status: RO

I think Dharma carries it but it may be offered by another name.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew T Trembley" <attrembl@bovil.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] If there's anybody who would know...


> ...it would be here.
> 
> I'm looking for North American retailers/wholesalers of ramie cloth.  
> For that matter, I'm interested in any vendor who ships to the US...
> 
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:24 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO

Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group photo.  =
I thought you all would like to see it.  The cabinet card photo's back =
is written "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, West Virginia."
The raw image is at: http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA.jpg
Same image with markings of interest: =
http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA2.jpg =20
The photo images are really large for you to view the details and =
compare the two images.  If you are viewing the Internet Explorer, make =
sure to place your cursor on the lower right corner. Wait for the little =
box with arrows to appear then click on it for the enlargement.  I do =
suggest to open two windows to do the comparison. =20

I am trying to figure what is the occasion/event of this photo. =20

Details:=20
A. Two girls holding porcelain dolls.
B. Two elderly women holding bonnets in their hand.
C. Two men holding up papers in a display manner.
D.  Toddler girl in a floor length dress
E. Baby in a long white dress=20
F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur.  It is =
of a man on a horse.=20
G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while the =
photo was taken.
OVALS: I placed ovals or circles around what maybe flowers/corsages.  A =
couple of girls are holding flowers.  =20

Several of the children at wearing hats and some boys are holding =
theirs. =20

I wish I could find a group photo like this of my family.  Maybe this =
photo can make its way back to Uncle Lem's family or if I can find the =
county's library and send it to them. The dealer told me that he had =
looked up Sandyville, WV on the internet.  He said it was a community =
not a town.=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:58:05 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO

What a great picture! Thanks for sharing!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 11:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo


Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group photo.  I
thought you all would like to see it.  The cabinet card photo's back is
written "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, West Virginia."
The raw image is at: http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA.jpg
Same image with markings of interest:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA2.jpg
The photo images are really large for you to view the details and compare
the two images.  If you are viewing the Internet Explorer, make sure to
place your cursor on the lower right corner. Wait for the little box with
arrows to appear then click on it for the enlargement.  I do suggest to open
two windows to do the comparison.

I am trying to figure what is the occasion/event of this photo.

Details:
A. Two girls holding porcelain dolls.
B. Two elderly women holding bonnets in their hand.
C. Two men holding up papers in a display manner.
D.  Toddler girl in a floor length dress
E. Baby in a long white dress
F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur.  It is of a
man on a horse.
G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while the photo
was taken.
OVALS: I placed ovals or circles around what maybe flowers/corsages.  A
couple of girls are holding flowers.

Several of the children at wearing hats and some boys are holding theirs.

I wish I could find a group photo like this of my family.  Maybe this photo
can make its way back to Uncle Lem's family or if I can find the county's
library and send it to them. The dealer told me that he had looked up
Sandyville, WV on the internet.  He said it was a community not a town.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:56:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Dear Penny -

Based on the photo's similarity to many in my family
archives I would guess that it is either a family
reunion or a church picnic type of gathering. 

Unfortunately, my monitor isn't good enough to get a
detailed look at faces to see if there is much family
resemblance amongst the group, but I would guess
family celebration. Most of the church group photos in
my family boxes say something like "Christian Endeavor
picnic" or "Sunday School gathering". 

It would be interesting to see if you could trace the
family of "Uncle Lem". Thanks for sharing!
--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

> Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice
> large group photo.  I thought you all would like to
> see it.  The cabinet card photo's back is written
> "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, West
> Virginia."
> The raw image is at:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA.jpg
> Same image with markings of interest:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA2.jpg  
> The photo images are really large for you to view
> the details and compare the two images.  If you are
> viewing the Internet Explorer, make sure to place
> your cursor on the lower right corner. Wait for the
> little box with arrows to appear then click on it
> for the enlargement.  I do suggest to open two
> windows to do the comparison.  
> 
> I am trying to figure what is the occasion/event of
> this photo.  
> 
> Details: 
> A. Two girls holding porcelain dolls.
> B. Two elderly women holding bonnets in their hand.
> C. Two men holding up papers in a display manner.
> D.  Toddler girl in a floor length dress
> E. Baby in a long white dress 
> F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo
> or a blur.  It is of a man on a horse. 
> G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady
> who moved while the photo was taken.
> OVALS: I placed ovals or circles around what maybe
> flowers/corsages.  A couple of girls are holding
> flowers.   
> 
> Several of the children at wearing hats and some
> boys are holding theirs.  
> 
> I wish I could find a group photo like this of my
> family.  Maybe this photo can make its way back to
> Uncle Lem's family or if I can find the county's
> library and send it to them. The dealer told me that
> he had looked up Sandyville, WV on the internet.  He
> said it was a community not a town. 
>  
> Penny Ladnier, 
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIKEBJFCAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 02:00:34 -0400
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Status: RO

Your welcome!  My husband, son, and I are fascinated with this photo because 
it shows so much.  The two men displaying the papers is driving my son 
crazy.  He said that the papers contain a photo with writing underneath it. 
If you look at the toddler D, a lady is standing in back of her.  Behind 
this lady appears to be a child in an equestrian suit.   It is hard to see 
all the photo's details online.  Some of the people have their hands on 
people in front of them.

I have located on rootsweb a lady who researching Donahues in this area.  I 
hope her email address is current.  I also found the library for Jackson 
County where Sandyville is located.  I hope to call them Monday.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:12:23 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Oct 21, 2007, at 2:00 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The two men displaying the papers is driving my son crazy.  He said  
> that the papers contain a photo with writing underneath it.

I have a photo of my great-grandmother and several other ladies from  
about 1897.  In it, my g-gma is holding a photograph of her two young  
children.  I don't know why these seven or eight ladies decided to  
have their picture taken together in their good dresses or why she's  
holding the photo.  I don't believe that any of the other ladies are  
related to my family, and both children were alive at that time.

Melanie Schuessler
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:03:03 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO


I, too, have a great family photo. It seems to be from around 1910. My great
grandmother and her children-- my grandfather (a really handsome man) and
his sisters. The ladies are wearing dresses of their own creation
(GORGEOUS!) Theae are the great aunts who inspired my interest in sewing.
They put themselves through nursing school  by hand stitching gloves in
Gloversville, NY. This was pre WWI. They later ended up in WWI France
nursing the wounded.

If you would like to see it, someone will have to tell me how to post it
once it is scanned in to my computer...

Monica






-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 10:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo



On Oct 21, 2007, at 2:00 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The two men displaying the papers is driving my son crazy.  He said
> that the papers contain a photo with writing underneath it.

I have a photo of my great-grandmother and several other ladies from
about 1897.  In it, my g-gma is holding a photograph of her two young
children.  I don't know why these seven or eight ladies decided to
have their picture taken together in their good dresses or why she's
holding the photo.  I don't believe that any of the other ladies are
related to my family, and both children were alive at that time.

Melanie Schuessler
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:11:20 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kathy Hoover <kathoov@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO

Penny,
I am going to send this on to the West Virginia & Regional History 
Collection, located in the library I work in, and see if they can 
help.  They have, they say, 21,000 photos online and even more in 
their unscanned archive.  I did a quick search of the online and came 
up with nothing, although "Jackson" comes up a lot around here, since 
(American Civil War General) Stonewall Jackson was from West Virginia 
and many things have been named for him.  (There was no Donahue and 
no Sandyville, either.) The relative affluence of the people in the 
photo reflects the part of West Virginia they come from--on the west 
side, not far from the Ohio border and Ohio River, not in the most 
mountainous part of the state.  Sandyville, WV does come up on Google 
as a location, so perhaps it's enough of a town to have a Post Office! ;-)

I'll let you know if they can figure anything out,
Kathy Hoover
(Yes, Penny, I'm still here!)
Library Associate
Downtown Library
West Virginia University
Morgantown, WV



At 11:43 PM 10/20/2007, you wrote:
>Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group 
>photo.  I thought you all would like to see it.  The cabinet card 
>photo's back is written "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, 
>West Virginia."
>The raw image is at: http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA.jpg
>Same image with markings of interest: 
>http://www.costumegallery.com/Photos/WestVA2.jpg
>The photo images are really large for you to view the details and 
>compare the two images.  If you are viewing the Internet Explorer, 
>make sure to place your cursor on the lower right corner. Wait for 
>the little box with arrows to appear then click on it for the 
>enlargement.  I do suggest to open two windows to do the comparison.
>
>I am trying to figure what is the occasion/event of this photo.
>
>Details:
>A. Two girls holding porcelain dolls.
>B. Two elderly women holding bonnets in their hand.
>C. Two men holding up papers in a display manner.
>D.  Toddler girl in a floor length dress
>E. Baby in a long white dress
>F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur.  It 
>is of a man on a horse.
>G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while 
>the photo was taken.
>OVALS: I placed ovals or circles around what maybe 
>flowers/corsages.  A couple of girls are holding flowers.
>
>Several of the children at wearing hats and some boys are holding theirs.
>
>I wish I could find a group photo like this of my family.  Maybe 
>this photo can make its way back to Uncle Lem's family or if I can 
>find the county's library and send it to them. The dealer told me 
>that he had looked up Sandyville, WV on the internet.  He said it 
>was a community not a town.
>
>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumelibrary.com
>www.costumeclassroom.com
>www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group  =20
> photo.  I thought you all would like to see it.  The cabinet card  =20
> photo's back is written "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville,  =20
> West Virginia."

My guess is a Church Group.  It was the custom to go to a memebers =20
house for Sunday Dinner after the service.  Even for a crowd that =20
large.  I can remember at my grandparents house, that there would be 2 =20
or 3 tables of preachers, a couple of tables of men, then the women =20
would eat and then the children.  Granny fed a *LOT* of folks on =20
Church Sunday.  There's a sect of Baptists that you tend to find in =20
the Appalachian Mountains that still have services once a month -- =20
rather than the circuit riding preacher, the congregation moved from =20
church-house to church-house.  The practice dated from Colonial =20
Virginia when an individual congregation could only meet once a month =20
unless they were Anglican.

Anyway, I've got a similar photo taken around 1902.  My grandfather is =20
one of the children on the front row -- 2 of the 4 sets of =20
Great-GRandparents are under the Welcome sign, and the pastor of this =20
group (this is actually a Methodist Church) was a great-grand-father =20
(He's the person under the umbrella).  This was taken at the =20
Odd-Fellows hall on Birchfield in Wise Co., VA.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Genealogy/Images/Misc/odd.fellows-11x14.jp=
g

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
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Status: RO

Oh, yeah ...

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

>
> F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur.  It   
> is of a man on a horse.
> G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while   
> the photo was taken.

Folks were probably moving.  General exposure times were a couple of minutes.

susan (who does Genealogy and collects Old Photos in her Copious  
Amounts of Spare Time!)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: ISO scan of a Morris tapestry
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Status: RO

Hi...

  I do have a high resolution scan of this (2615 x 1732 pixels) - file 
size (jpeg) is 7.88Mb. I also have a scan of the Burne-Jones cartoon for 
the tapestry (scan is a bit grainy, but it does give a clearer idea of 
the costume drapery). Resolution for this is 1870 x 1209 pixels; file 
size (jpeg again) is 4.35Mb.

  Let me know if this is useful, and I'll send you the files off list 
(if the files are a bit big for your connection speed, I can downsample 
them! :-) )

Regards,
             Lessa



Chris Laning wrote:
> I'm looking for someone who has a better picture than I do of the 
> 19th-century tapestry from Morris & Co. called "Adoration of the Magi" 
> (designed by E. Burne-Jones).
>
> All the pictures I can find on the Internet are tiny (400 pixels or 
> so) and all the details of the original are invisible. I need a better 
> look at this, so if anyone has a book with a better picture in it, I'd 
> love to hear about it. This was one of the most popular Morris 
> tapestries, so I know there are examples out there and some of them 
> have probably featured in books.
>
> TIA


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Status: RO

  No worries! I've sent both files off list...

Regards,
             Lessa  :-)



> Thank goodness! Yes, I'd like that very much. If your e-mail will send a file that big, my e-mail has a 100-mB mailbox  :) 
>
> Both files would be very helpful, but the one of the tapestry itself especially so.
>
> Whew! I knew this was the right place to ask  :) 
>
> -----Original Message-----
>   
>> >From: Kalessa <kalessa.h@ukonline.co.uk>
>> >Sent: Oct 21, 2007 12:27 PM
>> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: ISO scan of a Morris tapestry
>> >
>> >Hi...
>> >
>> >  I do have a high resolution scan of this (2615 x 1732 pixels) - file 
>> >size (jpeg) is 7.88Mb. I also have a scan of the Burne-Jones cartoon for 
>> >the tapestry (scan is a bit grainy, but it does give a clearer idea of 
>> >the costume drapery). Resolution for this is 1870 x 1209 pixels; file 
>> >size (jpeg again) is 4.35Mb.
>> >
>> >  Let me know if this is useful, and I'll send you the files off list 
>> >(if the files are a bit big for your connection speed, I can downsample 
>> >them!  :-)  )
>> >
>> >Regards,
>> >             Lessa
>> >
>> >
>> >
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
>   

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:59:56 -0600
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Status: RO

I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list 
often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought 
I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been 
through the wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff 
and still remains.  I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see 
if someone has had good luck with some product  haven't tried.

Sylrog

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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:09:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Have you tried getting the stain wet with warm water
then rubbing baking soda into it mixed with hydrogen
peroxide? Let it sit for half and hour then wash as
usual. I found that it worked with chocolate that had
been through the wash several times.

Kenet

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since
> others on the list 
> often have problems cleaning costumes and antique
> clothing, I thought 
> I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain
> that has been 
> through the wash twice and treated with spot
> removers and other stuff 
> and still remains.  I may have to give up on it but
> I thought I'd see 
> if someone has had good luck with some product 
> haven't tried.
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
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Status: RO

That won't bleach the fabric?  It's not white.

On Oct 21, 2007, at 8:09 PM, Kenet Muir wrote:

> Have you tried getting the stain wet with warm water
> then rubbing baking soda into it mixed with hydrogen
> peroxide? Let it sit for half and hour then wash as
> usual. I found that it worked with chocolate that had
> been through the wash several times.
>
> Kenet
>
> --- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
>
>> I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since
>> others on the list
>> often have problems cleaning costumes and antique
>> clothing, I thought
>> I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain
>> that has been
>> through the wash twice and treated with spot
>> removers and other stuff
>> and still remains.  I may have to give up on it but
>> I thought I'd see
>> if someone has had good luck with some product
>> haven't tried.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
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Status: RO

At 06:59 PM 10/21/2007, you wrote:
>I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the 
>list often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I 
>thought I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has 
>been through the wash twice and treated with spot removers and other 
>stuff and still remains.  I may have to give up on it but I thought 
>I'd see if someone has had good luck with some product  haven't tried.
>
>Sylrog

Do you have any Synthrapol?  It's used to de-grease fabrics before 
dyeing and does a good job of getting the lanolin out of raw wool.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

G:  I think it's two women, as the dresses and hair are not the same.

If it helps, it looks like it's either spring or autumn, as the trees 
only have a few leaves and the grass looks sparse.  My feeling is autumn.

HTH,
Sandy

At 01:00 PM 10/21/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:24 -0400
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
>
>Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group 
>photo.  I thought you all would like to see it.  The cabinet card 
>photo's back is written "Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, 
>West Virginia."
>
>G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while 
>the photo was taken.
>
>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Sandy,

I believe it is springtime.  On of the smaller trees has flowers on it like 
a dogwood.  VA is in the same zone and dogwoods generally bloom in April.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Penny,

This is just fascinating, especially since I'm putting together
costumes for an 1895 play :).  Please keep us updated on your
discoveries about this.

Catherine
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Status: RO

What things have you tried? Simple Green works well on dissolving automotive
oil My son's basketball got smeared by rolling under a car and it was the
only stuff to get it off. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] cleaning problem

I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list
often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought I'd
see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been through the
wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff and still remains.
I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see if someone has had good
luck with some product  haven't tried.

Sylrog

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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 11:15:07 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Vendor: Threads in Time
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Status: RO

Gentle h-costumers,
One of the gals in my dance company is looking for a repro '20s dress
& has found a ready-made done by Threads in Time.  I said I'd check
with h-costume & see if anyone's bought from them.  We hope to find
out pretty quick if anyone's had quality, delivery or payment issues
with the vendor.  (I've never heard of them.)  If you have any
information about the return policy, if it doesnt fit or if she cant
high-kick in the dress.  (We dance a high-energy Charleston routine
among other  20s dances.)
Thanks for the help,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Hi Cin,
I was looking around online today and found the following page:
http://threadsintime.net/id1.html
<snip>
Liz
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 20:50:52 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are =
on wiev on the danish costume museum.
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of the =
costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear =
besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern =
cuts and also zoom in

Have fun!

Bjarne
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Tudor costume and effigies database update
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Status: RO


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Jane Malcolm-Davies <jane@jmdandco.com>
> Date: October 22, 2007 3:26:33 PM GMT-04:00
> To: Effigies2 <jane@jmdandco.com>
> Subject: COSTUMER'S INFO: Tudor costume and effigies database update
> Reply-To: costumeinfo@yahoogroups.com
>
> I am pleased to announce the addition of new effigies to the Costume
> Research Image Library (CRIL) at a new, user-friendly web address:
> www.tudoreffigies.co.uk. Please visit, take a good look at the 36 new
> effigies (all of which are in Sussex churches) and do send me  
> feedback. I
> would like to know: why are the effigies interesting to you, how  
> you will
> use the information they provide, and how can the database be  
> improved? If
> you are in touch with other people who would like to know about the  
> Tudor
> effigies available online, please pass on this message. If you  
> manage a
> links page for a relevant website, please add  
> www.tudoreffigies.co.uk to it.
> Thanks for your interest  and, to previous database users, thanks  
> very much
> for your patience while the address change and upgrade have been  
> happening!
> A third phase of research in Essex is underway (thanks to the Pasold
> Research Fund). Your comments help the project progress and provide  
> sound
> evidence for future grant applications. The research centre at  
> Winchester
> School of Art is coming to an end after five successful years. This  
> means
> that the database needs new funding or rehoming! Regards,
> Jane M-D (Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies)
> jane@jmdandco.com
>
>> .
>
> __,_._,___

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 18:52:47 -0600
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Status: RO

Those are awesome, Bjarne.  Thanks for sharing.  Wish I could 
understand the description.

Sylrog

On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are 
> on wiev on the danish costume museum.
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of 
> the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear 
> besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern 
> cuts and also zoom in
>
> Have fun!
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] King Tut Exhibit
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Status: RO

In Sept. I went to see the King Tut exhibit at Philadelphia.  No one =
could take photos inside the exhibit.  But I wanted to show you the =
front steps of the Franklin Institute where the exhibit was, =
http://www.costumegallery.com/Philly/tutstepslg.jpg .  I am so silly...I =
didn't notice this on the museum's steps when we arrived.  We crossed =
the street and my husband said, "Look at the steps!"

Many thanks to those who told me to rent the headsets.  It was really =
nice.  The first part of our trip we stayed at a hotel downtown to get =
the VIP package King Tut tickets.  This was really nice.  There was a =
special reception area at the museum with refreshments.  We also did not =
have to wait in line.  We by-passed all line stops that regular ticket =
purchasers had.  This really helped my aching back.  We walked around =
downtown Philly the previous day.

As for the exhibit, I was really impressed.  I was really thrilled to =
see many of the artifacts that I had only seen on TV, books or in art =
history class slides.  The artifacts looked exactly like they did in =
those previous mentioned versions.  So many times I go to exhibits and =
the artifacts look nothing like the photos. =20

My husband has been to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.  He enjoyed the =
exhibit but not as much as I did.  He is back out on the road again with =
his job.  Now that the kids are all adults but one, I hope to join him =
on the international trips.  He has one trip planned for Korea and Japan =
for February.  He really doesn't suggest Korea in February, but he =
suggests that I meet him in Japan. =20

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 01:54:54 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
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Status: RO

I actually managed to get a grease stain out with some corn starch 
applied rubbed into it after it had been wet.  It made a mess but the 
stain came out after it had been washed.  Oddly enough I had been 
thinking of the H-Costume thread on the cornmeal through people's 
hair for cleaning, when they don't wash it in the normal way...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:59 PM 10/21/2007, you wrote:
>I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the 
>list often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I 
>thought I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has 
>been through the wash twice and treated with spot removers and other 
>stuff and still remains.  I may have to give up on it but I thought 
>I'd see if someone has had good luck with some product  haven't tried.
>
>Sylrog

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 02:41:17 -0500
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Status: RO

Bjarne,
What season was this dress worn? 
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
Is it for a special occasion?

De

-----Original Message-----

On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are 
> on wiev on the danish costume museum.
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of 
> the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear 
> besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern 
> cuts and also zoom in
>
> Have fun!
>
> Bjarne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

IIRC, it is the one that Janet Arnold talks about in the volume of 
Patterns of Fashion that covers the 18th century.  She describes it 
as a travelling costume I believe.  Someone's whose book is handy 
will have to confirm it for me however, since my books are still in boxes.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:41 AM 10/23/2007, you wrote:
>Bjarne,
>What season was this dress worn?
>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
>Is it for a special occasion?
>
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
>
> > For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are
> > on wiev on the danish costume museum.
> > http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> > Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of
> > the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear
> > besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern
> > cuts and also zoom in
> >
> > Have fun!
> >
> > Bjarne

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Status: RO

At 09:16 23/10/2007, you wrote:
>IIRC, it is the one that Janet Arnold talks about in the volume of 
>Patterns of Fashion that covers the 18th century.  She describes it 
>as a travelling costume I believe.  Someone's whose book is handy 
>will have to confirm it for me however, since my books are still in boxes.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>At 02:41 AM 10/23/2007, you wrote:
>>Bjarne,
>>What season was this dress worn?
>>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
>>Is it for a special occasion?
>>
>>De

It is not the same costume, but one of several that are shown on the 
Danish costume site. But yes, it is called a travelling costume in 
the Janet Arnold book.

Suzi

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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 03:46:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

According to the site, this is a morning toilette ensemble. For recieving visitors while getting dressed and having hair done.

Tania

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote: At 09:16 23/10/2007, you wrote:
>IIRC, it is the one that Janet Arnold talks about in the volume of 
>Patterns of Fashion that covers the 18th century.  She describes it 
>as a travelling costume I believe.  Someone's whose book is handy 
>will have to confirm it for me however, since my books are still in boxes.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>At 02:41 AM 10/23/2007, you wrote:
>>Bjarne,
>>What season was this dress worn?
>>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
>>Is it for a special occasion?
>>
>>De

It is not the same costume, but one of several that are shown on the 
Danish costume site. But yes, it is called a travelling costume in 
the Janet Arnold book.

Suzi

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Not heard of them, but I can supply the undergarment she will need. Pretty =
in peach silk even. Only hitch is fitting. ;-)=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AIt=92s neve=
r too late to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais=
 imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. =0A-Irish proverb=
=0AUse what talent you possess: the woods would be very silent if no birds =
sang except those that sang best.=0A- Henry van Dyke =0APride makes us do t=
hings well, but it is love, that makes us do them to perfection.=0A-H. Jack=
son Brown=0A I said I'd check=0Awith h-costume & see if anyone's bought fro=
m them.  We hope to find=0Aout pretty quick if anyone's had quality, delive=
ry or payment issues=0Awith the vendor.  <snip>=0AHi Cin,=0AI was looking a=
round online today and found the following page:=0Ahttp://threadsintime.net=
/id1.html=0A<snip>=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Make free worldwide PC-to-PC c=
alls. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger at http://ca.messenger.yahoo.com/
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	<20071021134357.bm4iuiv3ksw8cs84@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:38:49 -0700
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Status: RO

Maybe contacting churches in this area would help. They may have kept a copy
of the photo for their archives. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 10:44 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo

Oh, yeah ...

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

>
> F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur.  It   
> is of a man on a horse.
> G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while   
> the photo was taken.

Folks were probably moving.  General exposure times were a couple of
minutes.

susan (who does Genealogy and collects Old Photos in her Copious Amounts of
Spare Time!)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Vendor: Threads in Time
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Status: RO

First time I heard of them.
How authentic is she wanting? Most of the costume side is a basic that can
be upgrade. The silver satin looks more like something that would have been
worn under a beaded shift and not with just a sash. It also apears to have
darts which I don't recall seeing with 1920s flapper. Is she able to make
her own?

-----Original Message-----
Gentle h-costumers,
One of the gals in my dance company is looking for a repro '20s dress
& has found a ready-made done by Threads in Time.  I said I'd check
with h-costume & see if anyone's bought from them.  We hope to find
out pretty quick if anyone's had quality, delivery or payment issues
with the vendor.  (I've never heard of them.)  If you have any
information about the return policy, if it doesnt fit or if she cant
high-kick in the dress.  (We dance a high-energy Charleston routine
among other  20s dances.)
Thanks for the help,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Hi Cin,
I was looking around online today and found the following page:
http://threadsintime.net/id1.html
<snip>
Liz


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 16:12:28 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I tried  spot remover, a laundry pretreater like Shout, and Zout.    
Has anyone tried Oxyclean?

On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:42 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> What things have you tried? Simple Green works well on dissolving 
> automotive
> oil My son's basketball got smeared by rolling under a car and it was 
> the
> only stuff to get it off.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:00 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] cleaning problem
>
> I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list
> often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought 
> I'd
> see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been through 
> the
> wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff and still 
> remains.
> I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see if someone has had 
> good
> luck with some product  haven't tried.
>
> Sylrog
>
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 15:51:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I used it on a bright yellow cotton blouse that I was
sure that I would never be able to wear again, since
the chocolate stain was right in front. The shirt did
not bleach out and the set in stain was gone. If you
are unsure about the material try a like fabric first.


Kenet

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> That won't bleach the fabric?  It's not white.
> 
> On Oct 21, 2007, at 8:09 PM, Kenet Muir wrote:
> 
> > Have you tried getting the stain wet with warm
> water
> > then rubbing baking soda into it mixed with
> hydrogen
> > peroxide? Let it sit for half and hour then wash
> as
> > usual. I found that it worked with chocolate that
> had
> > been through the wash several times.
> >
> > Kenet
> >
> > --- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I know this isn't exactly costume related, but
> since
> >> others on the list
> >> often have problems cleaning costumes and antique
> >> clothing, I thought
> >> I'd see if anyone had a solution for a grease
> stain
> >> that has been
> >> through the wash twice and treated with spot
> >> removers and other stuff
> >> and still remains.  I may have to give up on it
> but
> >> I thought I'd see
> >> if someone has had good luck with some product
> >> haven't tried.
> >>
> >> Sylrog
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 03:00:50 -0500
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Status: RO

By the way thank you for introducing the site. I love how you can zoom any
of the garments.

De


-----Original Message-----

On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are
> on wiev on the danish costume museum.
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of
> the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear
> besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern
> cuts and also zoom in
>
> Have fun!
>
> Bjarne


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

So it is not for say, winter but to go from town to town in. Was this a
popular or common style of travel clothes?

De

-----Original Message-----
>At 02:41 AM 10/23/2007, you wrote:
>>Bjarne,
>>What season was this dress worn?
>>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
>>Is it for a special occasion?
>>
>>De

It is not the same costume, but one of several that are shown on the
Danish costume site. But yes, it is called a travelling costume in
the Janet Arnold book.

Suzi


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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEEJEJKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:30:34 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
This outfit was used to wear from bed in the morning until you had finnished 
your toilette.
It was timeconsuming to get your hair set and also to make your morning 
toilette, so this outfit was used.
It was common to have visits of both ladies and gentlemen when you made your 
toilette.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


> Bjarne,
> What season was this dress worn?
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
> Is it for a special occasion?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
>
>> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are
>> on wiev on the danish costume museum.
>> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
>> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of
>> the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear
>> besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern
>> cuts and also zoom in
>>
>> Have fun!
>>
>> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] help finding a painting
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Status: RO

This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I can find 
a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible where Mary visits 
Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you can see both the unborn 
babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on their mothers stomachs. From memory 
it's 14th or 15th century Italian and I think one mother is wearing pink and 
the other blue but I may be mistaken. I was talking to a friend about it but 
without an artist or reasonably unique title a google image search didn't 
turn up anything useful. To bring this back to clothing, I think it would be 
fun to recreate the painting by painting or printing a picture of a baby 
onto a dress.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem
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Status: RO

I've used Oxyclean on silk that my granddaughter spilt soda on, and it
was left for years before I got it back to clean.  It took several
soakings with the cleaner but did come clean.

alex

On 10/22/07, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I tried  spot remover, a laundry pretreater like Shout, and Zout.
> Has anyone tried Oxyclean?
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:42 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
> > What things have you tried? Simple Green works well on dissolving
> > automotive
> > oil My son's basketball got smeared by rolling under a car and it was
> > the
> > only stuff to get it off.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> > On
> > Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> > Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:00 PM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] cleaning problem
> >
> > I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list
> > often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought
> > I'd
> > see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been through
> > the
> > wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff and still
> > remains.
> > I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see if someone has had
> > good
> > luck with some product  haven't tried.
> >
> > Sylrog
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

These are wonderful, Bjarne!
Thank you.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are on
wiev on the danish costume museum.
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of the
costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear besides
the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern cuts and also
zoom in

Have fun!

Bjarne
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:46:49 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: new books on textiles and clothing from DBBC
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Status: RO

Oh, for a bigger book budget!  I saw this and just had to pass the 
information on to an appreciative audience.

Joan

>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:30:21 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>From: ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>Subject: new books on textiles and clothing from DBBC
>
>Dear Joan Jurancich,
>
>I would like to draw your attention to several books relating to 
>medieval and archaeological textiles and clothing: some new and 
>others on their way to us at great prices.
>
>Firstly, long-awaited, but welcomed nonetheless, we have just 
>received "Ancient Textiles: Production, Craft and Society", a 
>collection of papers dealing with textiles from the ancient world, 
>with plenty of medieval papers and a few stretching into the 
>eighteenth century. A full list of papers can be viewed by clicking 
>the link for this book below.
>
>Accompanying this book is a useful short guide: "First Aid for the 
>Excavation of Archaeological Textiles". Also available from us right now.
>
>Just published by our friends at Brepols is "Weaving, Veiling and 
>Dressing: Textiles and their Metaphors in the Late Medieval Ages", 
>which presents a collection of essays on textiles and the medieval Church.
>
>On their way to us from England are two Boydell books which we have 
>managed to acquire at extremely good prices: Gale Owen-Crocker's 
>"Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" which was released in a new edition 
>in 2004 and the Museum of London's "Medieval Horse and its 
>Equipment". Secure your copies now!
>
>And finally, a brief reminder (because I am told that the books are 
>about to be shipped to us) about the late Olaf Goubitz's "Purses in 
>Pieces" and "Stepping through Time", both of which will be available 
>exclusively from us.
>
>We will look forward to hearing from you.
>
>With regards,
>
>Ian Stevens
>The David Brown Book Co.
>Tel: 1-800-791-9354
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>'Ancient Textiles' - edited by Carole Gillis and Marie-Louise B Nosch
>List Price: US$ 70.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.00 *
>List Price: US$ 70.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=44861&MID=25998
>
>'First Aid for the Excavation of Archaeological Textiles' - edited 
>by Carole Gillis and Marie-Louise B Nosch
>List Price: US$ 8.00 * Our Price: US$ 6.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=46414&MID=25998
>
>'Weaving, Veiling and Dressing: Textiles and their Metaphors in the 
>Late Middle Ages' - edited by K.M. Rudy and B. Baert
>List Price: US$ 131.00 * Our Price: US$ 105.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=62087&MID=25998
>
>'Dress in Anglo-Saxon England' - by Gale R Owen-Crocker
>List Price: US$ 55.00 * Our Price: US$ 24.98 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=3280&MID=25998
>
>'The Medieval Horse and Its Equipment' - edited by John Clark
>List Price: US$ 50.00 * Our Price: US$ 22.98 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=40763&MID=25998
>
>'Purses in Pieces: Archaeological Finds of Late Medieval and 16th 
>Century Leather Purses, Pouches, Bags and Cases in the Netherlands' 
>- by Olaf Goubitz
>List Price: US$ 40.00 * Our Price: US$ 35.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=81349&MID=25998
>
>'Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric 
>Times until 1800' - by Olaf Goubitz, Carol van Driel-Murray and 
>Willy Groenman-van Waateringe
>List Price: US$ 75.00 * Our Price: US$ 65.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=32567&MID=25998


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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:33:37 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: otsisto@socket.net, h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Vendor: Threads in Time
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Status: RO

The particular dress she's interested in is a "wink & a nod" at 20s.
That's plenty good enough for this dance troupe.  No, she's not able
to make her own (she's a college student) & I dont have time to help
them all into both 20s & Victorians.
Thanks for the comments!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Vendor: Threads in Time
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGEIGJKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

First time I heard of them.
How authentic is she wanting? Most of the costume side is a basic that can
be upgrade. The silver satin looks more like something that would have been
worn under a beaded shift and not with just a sash. It also apears to have
darts which I don't recall seeing with 1920s flapper. Is she able to make
her own?

-----Original Message-----
Gentle h-costumers,
One of the gals in my dance company is looking for a repro '20s dress
& has found a ready-made done by Threads in Time.  I said I'd check
with h-costume & see if anyone's bought from them.  We hope to find
out pretty quick if anyone's had quality, delivery or payment issues
with the vendor.  (I've never heard of them.)  If you have any
information about the return policy, if it doesnt fit or if she cant
high-kick in the dress.  (We dance a high-energy Charleston routine
among other  20s dances.)
Thanks for the help,
--cin
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)
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Status: RO

Hi! 

I've just received my copy of this book, so just a few information:

It has some few patterns on renaissance doublets, cape, and hosen. Then it has a few good-looking patterns for 18th century waistcoats and jackets and then many, many garments from the 19th century, coats, trousers and anything one would like to make. And many military garments, napoleon wars and younger. 

So, mainly for the 19th-century enthusiasists, though I found it very helpful for drafting men's fitted garments. The 16th century doublet pattern may be easily variated to earlier garments from the medieval period. The most fitted garments here are the waistcoats. They're also helpful, you just have to remember that the armhole and shoulder bit is enlarged. So when adding sleeves, make this part as in another pattern with sleeves. The patterns are very similar, so I think you can use incorporate more patterns in one.

The good thing is that you won't need any basics for understanding. All slopers are explained. You'll only need to know how the measurements are called in English. Which is no problem if you write to the list:-)

The shipping to EU could be about 12 euros, I think. But I have no Idea how much it is for America...

Zuzana

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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Thank you, Bjarne for the Danish museum site
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Status: RO

Wow!  Just lovely!

When you say,  "Also pdf files of the pattern cuts and also zoom in." do you
mean sewing patterns laid out as in Janet Arnold?  If so, how do I find
them?

Thanks again for this treat.

Martha



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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
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Status: RO

Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:

> This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I can
> find a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible where
> Mary visits Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you can see both
> the unborn babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on their mothers
> stomachs. From memory it's 14th or 15th century Italian and I think one
> mother is wearing pink and the other blue but I may be mistaken. I was
> talking to a friend about it but without an artist or reasonably unique
> title a google image search didn't turn up anything useful. To bring
> this back to clothing, I think it would be fun to recreate the painting
> by painting or printing a picture of a baby onto a dress.
> thanks

Elizabeth, I have one like that, but I'm at school and it's at home.  =20
I'll email it to you tonight.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

So was the hood for covering an unmade hair do?

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,
This outfit was used to wear from bed in the morning until you had finnished
your toilette.
It was timeconsuming to get your hair set and also to make your morning
toilette, so this outfit was used.
It was common to have visits of both ladies and gentlemen when you made your
toilette.

Bjarne



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Status: RO

I guess this is probably where the quilted robe evolved from. I was hoping
it was a little more of a public dress.

De

-----Original Message-----
According to the site, this is a morning toilette ensemble. For recieving
visitors while getting dressed and having hair done.

Tania



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Subject: [h-cost] Book: NESAT 9 is out!
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Status: RO

I know that a few of you are interested in the NESAT (Northern 
European Society for Archaeological Textiles) Volume 9 is now 
available for order.

http://www.archeotex.ch/aktuell.html

I have ordered mine from the Swiss online bookseller.. but given the 
way the post usually works, you will probably get yours before I do. 
The price is 48 CHF (Swiss Francs) plus shipping.

Beth  

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)
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Status: RO

So how does one buy this book???? Author, publisher, etc.?

Ann Wass




-----Original Message-----
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 1:42 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)



Hi! 

I've just received my copy of this book, so just a few information:

It has some few patterns on renaissance doublets, cape, and hosen. Then it has a 
few good-looking patterns for 18th century waistcoats and jackets and then many, 
many garments from the 19th century, coats, trousers and anything one would like 
to make. And many military garments, napoleon wars and younger. 

So, mainly for the 19th-century enthusiasists, though I found it very helpful 
for drafting men's fitted garments. The 16th century doublet pattern may be 
easily variated to earlier garments from the medieval period. The most fitted 
garments here are the waistcoats. They're also helpful, you just have to 
remember that the armhole and shoulder bit is enlarged. So when adding sleeves, 
make this part as in another pattern with sleeves. The patterns are very 
similar, so I think you can use incorporate more patterns in one.

The good thing is that you won't need any basics for understanding. All slopers 
are explained. You'll only need to know how the measurements are called in 
English. Which is no problem if you write to the list:-)

The shipping to EU could be about 12 euros, I think. But I have no Idea how much 
it is for America...

Zuzana

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)
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Status: RO

Is this it?
http://tinyurl.com/2lv3rt

or this
http://tinyurl.com/2nzu53

-----Original Message-----
i!

I've just received my copy of this book, so just a few information:

It has some few patterns on renaissance doublets, cape, and hosen. Then it
has a few good-looking patterns for 18th century waistcoats and jackets and
then many, many garments from the 19th century, coats, trousers and anything
one would like to make. And many military garments, napoleon wars and
younger.

So, mainly for the 19th-century enthusiasists, though I found it very
helpful for drafting men's fitted garments. The 16th century doublet pattern
may be easily variated to earlier garments from the medieval period. The
most fitted garments here are the waistcoats. They're also helpful, you just
have to remember that the armhole and shoulder bit is enlarged. So when
adding sleeves, make this part as in another pattern with sleeves. The
patterns are very similar, so I think you can use incorporate more patterns
in one.

The good thing is that you won't need any basics for understanding. All
slopers are explained. You'll only need to know how the measurements are
called in English. Which is no problem if you write to the list:-)

The shipping to EU could be about 12 euros, I think. But I have no Idea how
much it is for America...

Zuzana



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct 23 17:24:18 2007
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book: NESAT 9 is out!
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:23:22 -0400
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Status: RO

Is there a table of contents somewhere online?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler


On Oct 23, 2007, at 3:53 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> I know that a few of you are interested in the NESAT (Northern  
> European Society for Archaeological Textiles) Volume 9 is now  
> available for order.
>
> http://www.archeotex.ch/aktuell.html
>
> I have ordered mine from the Swiss online bookseller.. but given  
> the way the post usually works, you will probably get yours before  
> I do. The price is 48 CHF (Swiss Francs) plus shipping.
>
> Beth
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct 23 17:39:37 2007
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:34:34 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Elizabeth wrote:
> This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I can 
> find a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible where Mary 
> visits Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you can see both the 
> unborn babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on their mothers stomachs. From 
> memory it's 14th or 15th century Italian and I think one mother is wearing 
> pink and the other blue but I may be mistaken. I was talking to a friend 
> about it but without an artist or reasonably unique title a google image 
> search didn't turn up anything useful. To bring this back to clothing, I 
> think it would be fun to recreate the painting by painting or printing a 
> picture of a baby onto a dress.

The painting is "The Meeting of Mary and Elisabeth" by Max Reichlich, 
Austrian, ca 1513.  It's up on Web Gallery of Art.  I was interested in the 
jug and the beverage flask, but the fetuses doing the meet-and-greet between 
the pregnant bellies are what made the picture really memorable...
Enjoy,
             -Helen/Aidan


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References: <5011522ba5c43e266f8be55d389ed259@ntw.net><000201c814d2$e03fe2b0$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom><8299ff22487460f2ea78d9fde646e946@ntw.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] cleaning problem
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 21:00:58 -0400
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Status: RO

For grease; dab it with some GOOP hand cleaner, the one used by auto
mechanics to wash their hands. Lightly wet it and then dab it if its too
delicate the textile, if not just dab it and let stand for some while then
rinse.
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandria Doyle [mailto:garbaholic@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:41 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem

I've used Oxyclean on silk that my granddaughter spilt soda on, and it
was left for years before I got it back to clean.  It took several
soakings with the cleaner but did come clean.

alex

On 10/22/07, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I tried  spot remover, a laundry pretreater like Shout, and Zout.
> Has anyone tried Oxyclean?
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:42 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
> > What things have you tried? Simple Green works well on dissolving
> > automotive
> > oil My son's basketball got smeared by rolling under a car and it was
> > the
> > only stuff to get it off.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> > On
> > Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> > Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:00 PM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] cleaning problem
> >
> > I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list
> > often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought
> > I'd
> > see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been through
> > the
> > wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff and still
> > remains.
> > I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see if someone has had
> > good
> > luck with some product  haven't tried.
> >
> > Sylrog
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.

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Status: RO

_http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79_ 
(http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79) 
 
Can you please indulge me, Bjarne, and tell me what this fabric is?   It is 
very surprising to see a plaid this early, in a bibfront dress!
 
Thanks for sharing.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
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On Oct 23, 2007, at 6:23 AM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I =20=

> can find a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible =20=

> where Mary visits Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you =20
> can see both the unborn babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on =20
> their mothers stomachs. =46rom memory it's 14th or 15th century =20
> Italian and I think one mother is wearing pink and the other blue =20
> but I may be mistaken. I was talking to a friend about it but =20
> without an artist or reasonably unique title a google image search =20
> didn't turn up anything useful. To bring this back to clothing, I =20
> think it would be fun to recreate the painting by painting or =20
> printing a picture of a baby onto a dress.

Fortunately or unfortunately for you, there is not just one such =20
painting -- it's a fairly common theme.

However, my favorite is the one I made a "LOLsaints" picture out =20
of.... it's here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/claning/1057360496/in/=20
set-72157601285300832/

(P.S. Safe for work, but not for the humorless.... :)

Now that I look at that one again, it's one of the type where only =20
one infant, the future John the Baptist, is actually shown. I do have =20=

at least one that shows both infants.

Aha! It's from REALonline <http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonline/> =20=

which is an excellent image source for paintings, sculpture, et =20
cetera in Austria.

Go there, select "Bildthema" from the drop-down menu,  and search on =20
"Heimsuchung Mariens" (without the quotes) and you will get well over =20=

100 Visitation paintings when you click on "Zeige Bilder" ("see =20
pictures").

The one I have in mind is their picture number (Bildnummern) #000225. =20=

A direct link to just the picture is:
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7000108.JPG

The information on the main site (which uses frames) says as follows:
Tempera on wood, wing panel of an altar. Artist unknown, Upper =20
Austria, 1490-1500.
Now in the collection of Krems Cathedral, Austria.

Aha, here's another one: http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/=20
images/7001442.JPG
Another altar wing panel, tempera on wood, by the "Master of the =20
Pfarrwerfener Altar", probably painted in Salzburg around 1425-1430. =20
Now in the Museum Carolino Augusteum in Salzburg.

There's an interesting book stand in this one too: a detail is at
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7001444.JPG

Others I saw in a quick run-through:

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7013861.JPG or  =20
picture #012952
Each lady has a gold oval on her belly and I think I can see images =20
of babies in both.

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7013000.JPG or picture =20=

#012305
This one's especially interesting, with the two babies seemingly =20
kneeling in the air in front of their mothers.

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7006475.JPG or picture =20=

#008153
(I am sorely tempted to caption this one "MY halo is bigger than YOUR =20=

halo...")

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7006314.JPG or picture =20=

#004678
This one just has gold stars on both ladies' bellies.

And there are at least a couple more.

The one I made into a LOLsaints icon is also from REALonline, picture =20=

#000907
Direct link: http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7002773.JPG
Yet another altar wing panel, in tempera on wood by Konrad von =20
Friesach of K=E4rnten, 1450-1460.

Have fun!
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Status: RO

For grease; dab it with some GOOP hand cleaner, the one used by auto
mechanics to wash their hands. Lightly wet it and then dab it if its too
delicate the textile, if not just dab it and let stand for some while then
rinse.
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandria Doyle [mailto:garbaholic@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:41 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning problem

I've used Oxyclean on silk that my granddaughter spilt soda on, and it
was left for years before I got it back to clean.  It took several
soakings with the cleaner but did come clean.

alex

On 10/22/07, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I tried  spot remover, a laundry pretreater like Shout, and Zout.
> Has anyone tried Oxyclean?
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:42 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
> > What things have you tried? Simple Green works well on dissolving
> > automotive
> > oil My son's basketball got smeared by rolling under a car and it was
> > the
> > only stuff to get it off.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> > On
> > Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> > Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:00 PM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] cleaning problem
> >
> > I know this isn't exactly costume related, but since others on the list
> > often have problems cleaning costumes and antique clothing, I thought
> > I'd
> > see if anyone had a solution for a grease stain that has been through
> > the
> > wash twice and treated with spot removers and other stuff and still
> > remains.
> > I may have to give up on it but I thought I'd see if someone has had
> > good
> > luck with some product  haven't tried.
> >
> > Sylrog
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:28:00 -0700
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Status: RO


On Oct 23, 2007, at 2:34 PM, Helen Pinto wrote:

> The painting is "The Meeting of Mary and Elisabeth" by Max  
> Reichlich, Austrian, ca 1513.  It's up on Web Gallery of Art.  I  
> was interested in the jug and the beverage flask, but the fetuses  
> doing the meet-and-greet between the pregnant bellies are what made  
> the picture really memorable...

I have to admit, it's the only one I've seen where it looks like the  
babies are giving each other "high-fives"!
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Status: RO

I haven't found a full list but these are in it:

Ulla Mannering with L. R=E6der Knudsen,
         A Danish Early Germanic Iron Age Grave with Tablet Woven Cuffs
Margarita Gleba with J.M. Turfa,
         Digging for archaeological textiles in=20
museums: =91New=92 finds in the University of=20
Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology
Eva Andersson,
         Engendering Central Places, some aspects=20
of the organisation of textile production during the Viking Age.
Linda M=E5rtensson,
         Toolmakers? =96 On the production of tools=20
for making and treating textiles during the Viking Age.
Heini Kirjavainen,
         Some Finnish late Iron Age and Medieval=20
Twill Weaves from the 11th to the 15th century.

Hope this helps,
Beth

>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:23:22 -0400
>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>Is there a table of contents somewhere online?
>
>Thanks,
>Melanie Schuessler

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum: mounting question
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Status: RO

Can anyone figure out how they mounted for display the ladies' costumes? 
Especially one like this:
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=119

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

In one of the pictures the bottom of the stand is visible
( http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=14  );
it seems to me to be a wire form holding up the gown from the inside.

Just my .02

kate

> Can anyone figure out how they mounted for display the ladies' costumes? 
> Especially one like this:
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=119
> 
> Penny
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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEEJEJKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 22:48:48 -0700
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Status: RO

And was it worn in public, or as the name suggests, only as a "Morning"
dress, as I would wear my quilted robe around the house before dressing to
go out? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 12:41 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online

Bjarne,
What season was this dress worn? 
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=57
Is it for a special occasion?

De

-----Original Message-----

On Oct 22, 2007, at 12:50 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are 
> on wiev on the danish costume museum.
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of 
> the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear 
> besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern 
> cuts and also zoom in
>
> Have fun!
>
> Bjarne


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)
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http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.sautter-lackmann.de/lager/titel.php%3Fbn%3D523573&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=2&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DRundschau%2BHistorische%2BSchnitte%2BHaKa%26hl%3Den

Wow, yes, this looks like it! Where did you get this link??? The price is much lower in dollars...wow...but check for availibility (and let me know):-) 

Otherwise all information is here: 

And you can read the earlier discussions. It's something with rundschau in the title:-)

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf

Zuzana


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: Is this it?
http://tinyurl.com/2lv3rt

or this
http://tinyurl.com/2nzu53

-----Original Message-----
i!

I've just received my copy of this book, so just a few information:

It has some few patterns on renaissance doublets, cape, and hosen. Then it
has a few good-looking patterns for 18th century waistcoats and jackets and
then many, many garments from the 19th century, coats, trousers and anything
one would like to make. And many military garments, napoleon wars and
younger.

So, mainly for the 19th-century enthusiasists, though I found it very
helpful for drafting men's fitted garments. The 16th century doublet pattern
may be easily variated to earlier garments from the medieval period. The
most fitted garments here are the waistcoats. They're also helpful, you just
have to remember that the armhole and shoulder bit is enlarged. So when
adding sleeves, make this part as in another pattern with sleeves. The
patterns are very similar, so I think you can use incorporate more patterns
in one.

The good thing is that you won't need any basics for understanding. All
slopers are explained. You'll only need to know how the measurements are
called in English. Which is no problem if you write to the list:-)

The shipping to EU could be about 12 euros, I think. But I have no Idea how
much it is for America...

Zuzana



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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My guess is that the danish winter and the huge rooms on the mannorhouses 
could be quite chilly in the mornings, so a hood could be quite usefull.
Men wore caps on their heads when wearing banyans, so why not a hood for the 
ladies..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


> So was the hood for covering an unmade hair do?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
> This outfit was used to wear from bed in the morning until you had 
> finnished
> your toilette.
> It was timeconsuming to get your hair set and also to make your morning
> toilette, so this outfit was used.
> It was common to have visits of both ladies and gentlemen when you made 
> your
> toilette.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Can anyone figure out how they mounted for display the ladies' 
> costumes? Especially one like this:
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=119

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but however they did it, it was 
brilliant. I'm going to guess that they made hollow "dress forms" and 
cut away the portions that would show outside the dress. They could be 
fiberglass and painted to match the dress colors, or they could be clear 
polycarbonate.

andy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:59:13 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
I am sorry but the page dont give informations about the fabric. The dress 
is made for a small girl living in a small town on Funen.
It is mentioned that small girls could wear trousers to the dress.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


> _http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79_
> (http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79)
>
> Can you please indulge me, Bjarne, and tell me what this fabric is?   It 
> is
> very surprising to see a plaid this early, in a bibfront dress!
>
> Thanks for sharing.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum: mounting question
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Status: RO

I know the lady who helped them with this. She made individually body forms 
from wire and plaster. The form is hollow inside, only the surface body is 
there to support the dress.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum: mounting question


> Can anyone figure out how they mounted for display the ladies' costumes? 
> Especially one like this:
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=119
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Rundschau Historische Schnitte HaKa (men)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 02:11:15 -0500
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Status: RO

Googled it. :)
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Rundschau+Historische+Schnitte+HaKa&btn
G=Google+Search

De

-----Original Message-----
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.sautter-lackm
ann.de/lager/titel.php%3Fbn%3D523573&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=2&ct=result&pr
ev=/search%3Fq%3DRundschau%2BHistorische%2BSchnitte%2BHaKa%26hl%3Den

Wow, yes, this looks like it! Where did you get this link??? The price is
much lower in dollars...wow...but check for availibility (and let me
know):-)

Otherwise all information is here:

And you can read the earlier discussions. It's something with rundschau in
the title:-)

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf

Zuzana


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: Is this it?
http://tinyurl.com/2lv3rt

or this
http://tinyurl.com/2nzu53



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Subject: [h-cost] NYC Fashion District
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Status: RO

What are some of the names of the main streets in NYC fashion district?  =
I am working on a 1905 jobber's pocket manual that lists various fashion =
related businesses, retailers, manufacturers, and mills east of the =
Mississippi River.  I am just wondering if the streets list for =
businesses, etc. is what is called the fashion district today.   Some of =
the locations are 300-500 blocks of Broadway, Worth St., Green St., =
Leonard St. and White St.

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:31:18 +1000
From: "Barbara -_- M aren" <bmwbmwb@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
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Status: RO

2007/10/24, Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:
>
>
> On Oct 23, 2007, at 6:23 AM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> > This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I
> > can find a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible
> > where Mary visits Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you
> > can see both the unborn babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on
> > their mothers stomachs. ...


Fortunately or unfortunately for you, there is not just one such
> painting -- it's a fairly common theme.


Thanks for looking these up.
In most of these pictures, Mary doesn't wear a headdress/veil. She's a
virgin! Apparently not married...

B arbara M arien
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Status: RO

At 01:21 24/10/2007, you wrote:
>_http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79_
>(http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=79)
>
>Can you please indulge me, Bjarne, and tell me what this fabric is?   It is
>very surprising to see a plaid this early, in a bibfront dress!
>
>Thanks for sharing.
>
>Ann Wass


I think the trim is silk ribbon, according to the text. Although it's 
a huge jump, I would guess that the dress is probably silk too, in 
that case. There is a booklet  by Naomi Tarrant  "The Rise and Fall 
of the Sleeve" which has a very early plaid dress in silk.

Suzi

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Hiya all.

I am in the process of making a shirt (not historical), that has been on hold for several years.
When I started on the shirt, I used a wheel and tracing paper to get the pattern over to the fabric. 
It is white 100% linen. How can i get the marks out? it has been ironed a lot of times since then and I used a green tracing paper. I have not washed it yet, because I am afraid that will set the colour even better.

Tania

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Subject: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
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Status: RO

Did Philadelphia have a fashion district in the 19th Century into 1905?  If 
so where was it?  Does one still exist?  I know that a couple fashion 
publications were out of Philly. Also they were the largest producers of 
baby caps in the U.S. during the 1890s.  I am running across several 
manufacturers in the area in 1905.

I am putting all these listings from the jobber's manual into an Excel 
spreadsheet.  I am hoping to breakdown this book by state and city with the 
software when finished.  BTW, I am now west of the Mississippi now.  I have 
a couple of listings from Iowa!!!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

Thanks, Bjarne.  A child's dress makes sense--plaid seems to have been  
popular for them.  I did not know, though, that girls wore bibfront  dresses.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:56:26 -0400
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Status: RO

I don't know about the 19th C., but there is one today around 2nd or 4th 
Street. I check it out every time we are in Philly.  However, my mind is 
remembering that the present site is somewhat newer, as most of the old area 
was razed for re-development in the last quarter of the 20thC. There was one 
remeining store in the (?) area the first time I was checking out yellow 
pages listings.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:29 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District


> Did Philadelphia have a fashion district in the 19th Century into 1905? 
> If so where was it?  Does one still exist?  I know that a couple fashion 
> publications were out of Philly. Also they were the largest producers of 
> baby caps in the U.S. during the 1890s.  I am running across several 
> manufacturers in the area in 1905.
>
> I am putting all these listings from the jobber's manual into an Excel 
> spreadsheet.  I am hoping to breakdown this book by state and city with 
> the software when finished.  BTW, I am now west of the Mississippi now.  I 
> have a couple of listings from Iowa!!!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 24 October 2007, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
> I don't know about the 19th C., but there is one today around 2nd or 4th
> Street. I check it out every time we are in Philly.  However, my mind is
> remembering that the present site is somewhat newer, as most of the old
> area was razed for re-development in the last quarter of the 20thC. There
> was one remeining store in the (?) area the first time I was checking out
> yellow pages listings.

The current district in the vicinity of 4th Street and Bainbridge (which is 
what I assume Kathleen is referring to ) is not, strictly speaking, 
a "fashion district".  It's more of a fabric district; there are a 
concentration of good fabric sellers in that area.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thank you, Bjarne for the Danish museum site
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 14:26:46 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Martha,
If you find some costumes wich has smaller images further down to the right, 
there are black and white picture with patterns. Click on this and on top 
again appears a bigger picture of the pattern cut. Under this picture there 
is a link to a pdf file format where all the pattern cuts appears.
Hope you can understand this!
It is not all costumes that has pattern cuts, but for example manny of the 
1700 ones has, - the very first with the huge hoop has.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Thank you, Bjarne for the Danish museum site


> Wow!  Just lovely!
>
> When you say,  "Also pdf files of the pattern cuts and also zoom in." do 
> you
> mean sewing patterns laid out as in Janet Arnold?  If so, how do I find
> them?
>
> Thanks again for this treat.
>
> Martha
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1620's question
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Status: RO


Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....

My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the original
Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, and thought it
would be fun to dress the part. However, our usual is 1570's England, so we
need to update our current outfits a bit. What is the best/easiest way to
revise a somewhat later Elizabethan men's doublet and paned slops to update
it to 1620's? I'm thinking a falling collar and big lace cuffs; what about a
hat? Would a flat cap be approproate? or a tall hat? I am planning to wear a
"generic" kirtle and semi-fitted overgown (maybe I'll finally make some
sleeves!) with a black wool partlet over the ensemble, possibly a jacket
(based on Arnold) and a linen caul for my head. Would I need another head
covering over the caul?

Thanks for any suggestions!


*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:57:08 -0400
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Status: RO

Right on!  I read fabric for fashion. A favorite haunt when I am in town. 
Love the variety of shops and eateries.
KSM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District


> On Wednesday 24 October 2007, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>> I don't know about the 19th C., but there is one today around 2nd or 4th
>> Street. I check it out every time we are in Philly.  However, my mind is
>> remembering that the present site is somewhat newer, as most of the old
>> area was razed for re-development in the last quarter of the 20thC. There
>> was one remeining store in the (?) area the first time I was checking out
>> yellow pages listings.
>
> The current district in the vicinity of 4th Street and Bainbridge (which 
> is
> what I assume Kathleen is referring to ) is not, strictly speaking,
> a "fashion district".  It's more of a fabric district; there are a
> concentration of good fabric sellers in that area.
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
> available."-- Gregory Benford
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Oct 24 10:55:33 2007
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620's question
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Status: RO



You might get away with the doublet, even though doublets by 1620 have  risen 
to the natural waist [or higher] with no piece-cod and with long  tassets, 
but I'd think paned slops might be too old fashioned. The plain  hose of the 
period are not difficult to make at all. There are no cod pieces or  anything, 
and they open either at both side seams or have a  simple buttoned fly CF. Also 
old fashioned is the flat cap. A tall hat  with a wide brim would be very 
helpful in establishing the period.
 
If you have a doublet bodice, I'd go with that, and a full-ish skirt with a  
bulky petticoat and maybe even a round bumroll. All the conical shape of 
earlier  skirts are gone by 1620. You sometimes see the overskirt pulled up in 
front [I  did this once by tacking 3, 6" - 8" ribbons to the hem at CF and SF's 
and  then to the waistband... all inside the skirt... letting the back fall as 
it  may] revealing a contrasting skirt underneath. You too could even wear a  
tall hat with a coif underneath [on of my fave looks for women in this  period].
 
Both men's and women's sleeves tend to be tight. You can unpick the inside  
arm seam and open it up all the way, or in 2 or 3 sections to show the  chemise 
or shirt sleeve underneath... this will help the look.
 
Falling bands and wide collars will be very helpful in stating the period  
you want to evoke.



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Status: RO

 
Penny wrote:

What are  some of the names of the main streets in NYC fashion district?  I 
am  working on a 1905 jobber's pocket manual that lists various fashion related 
 businesses, retailers, manufacturers, and mills east of the Mississippi  
River.  I am just wondering if the streets list for businesses, etc. is  what is 
called the fashion district today.   Some of the locations  are 300-500 blocks 
of Broadway, Worth St., Green St., Leonard St. and White  St.




These are not in the current Garment District.  Some of these areas  did 
still have fabric stores as late as 2001 (stopped working downtown after the  
attacks and I haven't been back).  The Garment District is Westside upper  30's 
from Broadway over to 8th/9th Avenues.  The Broadway addresses would  be around 
1400.
 
Nancy



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Status: RO

Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....
> 
> My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the original
> Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, and thought it
> would be fun to dress the part. 

Have a look at the Plimouth Plantation site: http://www.plimoth.org/

There are lots of photos of costumed interpreters to draw inspiration 
from. They've done a good job with the research and the clothing from 
the time period -- clothing worn by the settlers as opposed to the folks 
home in London. Somewhere they used to have a section on the clothing, 
but they've redone the site *again*, and I can't find it now.



Dawn


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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:52:47 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: NYC Fashion District
In-reply-to: <c94.1a9b6120.3450bef6@aol.com>
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Status: RO

The remaining downtown stores -- what few they are -- are around West
Broadway.

The 9/11 attacks have been devastating to the garment industry. Today, most
of the industry is off-shore (China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia--- you
know, the garden spots of the world where they employ child and slave labor
and pay 38 cents a day... But I digress.)

The fabric stores were hardest hit because so few people sew now, and
whatever suppliers they had in the US textile the industry has dries up.

There are a few nice stores on 39th over by 8th ave. But they are very
expensive.

Monica
Works in Manhatten teaching fashion

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: NYC Fashion District



Penny wrote:

What are  some of the names of the main streets in NYC fashion district?  I
am  working on a 1905 jobber's pocket manual that lists various fashion
related
 businesses, retailers, manufacturers, and mills east of the Mississippi
River.  I am just wondering if the streets list for businesses, etc. is
what is
called the fashion district today.   Some of the locations  are 300-500
blocks
of Broadway, Worth St., Green St., Leonard St. and White  St.




These are not in the current Garment District.  Some of these areas  did
still have fabric stores as late as 2001 (stopped working downtown after the
attacks and I haven't been back).  The Garment District is Westside upper
30's
from Broadway over to 8th/9th Avenues.  The Broadway addresses would  be
around
1400.

Nancy



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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620's question
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Status: RO

"Sarah Morton’s Day" and "Samuel Eaton’s Day" are two great books from
Plimouth Plantation. I think they are available from Amazon also.  They show
children dressing and since the clothing is just like adults, it is very
useful for the reinactor and costumer.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620's question


Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....
>
> My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the original
> Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, and thought it
> would be fun to dress the part.

Have a look at the Plimouth Plantation site: http://www.plimoth.org/

There are lots of photos of costumed interpreters to draw inspiration
from. They've done a good job with the research and the clothing from
the time period -- clothing worn by the settlers as opposed to the folks
home in London. Somewhere they used to have a section on the clothing,
but they've redone the site *again*, and I can't find it now.



Dawn


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Status: RO

I am subscribed to Sotherby's Auction Catalogue Online and this week they have sent me one called "Important British Paintings". You have to sign up to fully browse the site but if you do you can get really close up views of the paintings.
There are several Elizabethan paintings and  Bjarne, many nice 18th Centiry portraits. Since they are up for auction, they may not be available for public viewing in the future.

http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails&event_id=28387

I am still browsing...hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Sarah Paterson


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Status: RO

You are looking a approx. 3 muskateers era. Baroque Era.

http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-follarkin1.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/j/p-johnson1.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/j/p-johnson2.htm
http://www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/opacdirect/3519.html

1600 and 1605 men
http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/HenriIV.JPG

1628
http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/Elegantsalamode.JPG

women 1613 and 1620
http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/MariedeMedicis.JPG

1620 and 1617 men
http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/PortraitdumarechaldeSouvre.JPG

http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/index.shtml
-----Original Message-----
Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....

My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the original
Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, and thought it
would be fun to dress the part. However, our usual is 1570's England, so we
need to update our current outfits a bit.

Thanks for any suggestions!


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Subject: [h-cost] cloth and clothing in Britain c. 700-1450
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Status: RO

Some of you may not be aware of the Lexis Project (see below).
For more information: http://lexisproject.arts.manchester.ac.uk/

The first publication is now available (see below for complete info):
Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD=20
450-1100: An Annotated bibliography. by:=20
Elizabeth  Coatsworth , Gale R.  Owen-Crocker

Hope that this is of interest.
Beth

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
http://www.arts.manchester.ac.uk/subjectareas/englishamericanstudies/academi=
cstaff/galeowencrocker/
In 2006 Professor Owen-Crocker was awarded=20
=A3765,576 for a 5-year Research Project The lexis=20
of cloth and clothing in Britain c. 700-1450:=20
origins, identification, contexts and change by=20
the Arts and Humanities Research Council.

The Project will produce a database of=20
terminology from all the medieval languages of=20
the British Isles: Old and Middle English, Old=20
Irish, Welsh and other Celtic languages,=20
Anglo-Norse, Anglo-Norman and Anglo-Latin and=20
will be illustrated with maps, drawings and photographs.

Professor Owen-Crocker is Director of the Project=20
in association with Dr Cordelia Warr=20
cordelia.warr@manchester.ac.uk and Dr Louise=20
Sylvester louise.sylvester@uce.ac.uk

The Project will employ two post doctoral=20
Research Assistants, one each at Manchester and=20
UCE BIrmingham, a part time Administrative=20
Assistant, and two part time technical staff. It=20
will fund consultancies on Old Irish and Old=20
Welsh and the services of an artist/cartographer.

In addition the AHRC is funding a PhD in Art=20
History associated with the Project.

The Project begins on 6 November 2006.
    * The Birmingham-based Research Assistant is Dr Mark Chambers.
    * The Manchester-based Administrative Assistant is Brian Schneider
    * The PhD student is Pamela Walker
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
BAR 445, 2007
Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100
An Annotated bibliography
by: Elizabeth  Coatsworth , Gale R.  Owen-Crocker
ISBN: 1407301357 9781407301358 , Price: =A336.00 DBBC $90.00
xi+201 pages; 43 b/w plates and drawings, 13 colour plates.

The Manchester Medieval Textiles Project began in=20
1994, as a collaboration between Elizabeth=20
Coatsworth of Manchester Metropolitan University=20
and Gale Owen-Crocker of the University of=20
Manchester. Both had specialist interests in the=20
literary and material culture of the early=20
medieval period, and both were conscious of a gap=20
in general knowledge of an important and=20
all-pervasive part of that material culture,=20
through the relative inaccessibility of sources=20
of information regarding medieval textiles. The=20
Manchester Medieval Textiles Project developed=20
with two objectives, both attempting to bring the=20
basic materials of the subject to a wider=20
audience. The first is to establish a catalogue=20
of all medieval textiles in the British Isles.=20
This starts from the needs of a seeker after=20
specific textiles, or textile objects, who will=20
also be interested in the context of discovery,=20
and will be accompanied by a glossary of textile=20
terms relevant to the finds. The catalogue will=20
be published in due course on the internet, as a=20
searchable database, the most useful form for=20
those who want to devise their own, new, research=20
questions of this material. The second objective=20
was to produce this annotated bibliography of=20
publications relevant to these textiles. It is=20
intended to show the range of sources available=20
to the historian of material culture, who wishes=20
to consider the evidence from the surviving=20
textiles, and whether specific publications will=20
have the kind of information they seek. Both=20
parts of the Project should enable those=20
interested in this material to see what materials=20
comparative to their object of interest exist=20
throughout the British Isles and Ireland; and the=20
differences between cultural areas should also be=20
more readily apparent. With Glossary; Annotated=20
Bibliography of textiles of the British Isles c.=20
AD 450-1100; List of find sites and present=20
locations of textiles of the British Isles c. AD=20
450-1100; List of find sites of textile tools and=20
other evidence of textile manufacture from the=20
British Isles c. AD 450-1100 and comparative=20
evidence from Europe; List of garments attested=20
among textiles of the British Isles c. AD=20
450-1100; List of non-clothing textiles attested=20
from the British Isles c. AD 450-1100; List of=20
historical persons associated with textiles named in the text; General=
 index.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =20

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
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Status: RO

Philadelphia had a stocking hosiery industry.  My mother's family worked 
in it.  My mother, BTW, was old enough to be my grandmother; or at 
least, she was from the generation previous to my father's.  She and all 
her relations are dead now, so there is no one I can ask for further info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Did Philadelphia have a fashion district in the 19th Century into 1905?  
> If so where was it?  Does one still exist?  I know that a couple fashion 
> publications were out of Philly. Also they were the largest producers of 
> baby caps in the U.S. during the 1890s.  I am running across several 
> manufacturers in the area in 1905.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting markings out of clothes
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Status: RO

Tania Gruning wrote:
> Hiya all.
>
> I am in the process of making a shirt (not historical), that has been on hold for several years.
> When I started on the shirt, I used a wheel and tracing paper to get the pattern over to the fabric. 
> It is white 100% linen. How can i get the marks out? it has been ironed a lot of times since then and I used a green tracing paper. I have not washed it yet, because I am afraid that will set the colour even better.
>   

1. Mark some scraps to test-clean.
2. Run one through your normal wash cycle. If it works you're home free.
3. Try mixing up some oxy-clean with water and soak a test scrap in it. 
It may knock out the color.
4. Try Synthrapol SP. It's a de-greaser and removes stray pigment, and 
is commonly used before dyeing fabrics.
5. Try a mild chlorine bleach solution. Linen can usually stand up to that.

Synthrapol SP from Dharma:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2127-AA.shtml

andy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book: NESAT 9 is out!
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:41:34 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It does!

Thanks so much,
Melanie


On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:19 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> I haven't found a full list but these are in it:
>
> <...>
> Hope this helps,
> Beth


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Subject: [h-cost] Romanian costume
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Status: RO

I know how hard it is to find good information on c 15th C costume 
(beautiful embroidery by the way) from southeast Europe, so I thought 
that I'd pass this on:
http://www.heritage.xtd.pl/pdf/full_marincas.pdf

Beth 

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Subject: [h-cost] Sharing another soucre for pictoral research
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Status: RO

I am subscribed to Sotherby's Auction Catalogue Online and this week they have sent me one called "Important British Paintings". You have to sign up to fully browse the site but if you do you can get really close up views of the paintings.
There are several Elizabethan paintings and  Bjarne, many nice 18th Centiry portraits. Since they are up for auction, they may not be available for public viewing in the future.

http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails&event_id=28387

I am still browsing...hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Sarah Paterson


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: NYC Fashion District
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:57:58 -0600
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Status: RO

Anyone know if this is true in the Los Angeles garment district as 
well?  I haven't been there since before 9/11.    It's gotten very 
difficult for us theatrical costume designers to find the fabrics we 
need anymore for our productions.

Sylrog

On Oct 24, 2007, at 9:52 AM, monica spence wrote:

> The remaining downtown stores -- what few they are -- are around West
> Broadway.
>
> The 9/11 attacks have been devastating to the garment industry. Today, 
> most
> of the industry is off-shore (China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia--- you
> know, the garden spots of the world where they employ child and slave 
> labor
> and pay 38 cents a day... But I digress.)
>
> The fabric stores were hardest hit because so few people sew now, and
> whatever suppliers they had in the US textile the industry has dries 
> up.
>
> There are a few nice stores on 39th over by 8th ave. But they are very
> expensive.
>
> Monica
> Works in Manhatten teaching fashion
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:30 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: NYC Fashion District
>
>
>
> Penny wrote:
>
> What are  some of the names of the main streets in NYC fashion 
> district?  I
> am  working on a 1905 jobber's pocket manual that lists various fashion
> related
>  businesses, retailers, manufacturers, and mills east of the 
> Mississippi
> River.  I am just wondering if the streets list for businesses, etc. is
> what is
> called the fashion district today.   Some of the locations  are 300-500
> blocks
> of Broadway, Worth St., Green St., Leonard St. and White  St.
>
>
>
>
> These are not in the current Garment District.  Some of these areas  
> did
> still have fabric stores as late as 2001 (stopped working downtown 
> after the
> attacks and I haven't been back).  The Garment District is Westside 
> upper
> 30's
> from Broadway over to 8th/9th Avenues.  The Broadway addresses would  
> be
> around
> 1400.
>
> Nancy
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
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Status: RO

Duh - I should have thought to check out Plimouth!

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 10:49 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620's question
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> > Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....
> > 
> > My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the 
> original 
> > Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, 
> and thought 
> > it would be fun to dress the part.
> 
> Have a look at the Plimouth Plantation site: http://www.plimoth.org/
> 
> There are lots of photos of costumed interpreters to draw 
> inspiration from. They've done a good job with the research 
> and the clothing from the time period -- clothing worn by the 
> settlers as opposed to the folks home in London. Somewhere 
> they used to have a section on the clothing, but they've 
> redone the site *again*, and I can't find it now.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:45:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting markings out of clothes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

When my Great Aunt passed over in 1999 I inherited all
her stash and sewing stuff. (I know!! Lucky me!) In
there were several shirtwaist type dresses which
appeared to be in the style of the 60's which had been
cut and marked in a similar manner. Since I wanted to
reuse the fabric I just tossed it in the washer with
cool water and it came out just fine. 

If the marks don't come out or aren't going to be
hidden in the darts or seams perhaps you could cover
them with embroidery or fabric paint.

--- Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hiya all.
> 
> I am in the process of making a shirt (not
> historical), that has been on hold for several
> years.
> When I started on the shirt, I used a wheel and
> tracing paper to get the pattern over to the fabric.
> 
> It is white 100% linen. How can i get the marks out?
> it has been ironed a lot of times since then and I
> used a green tracing paper. I have not washed it
> yet, because I am afraid that will set the colour
> even better.
> 
> Tania
> 
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th c. Quilted Items  RE: danish costume museum online
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--- Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:

> And was it worn in public, or as the name suggests,
> only as a "Morning"
> dress, as I would wear my quilted robe around the
> house before dressing to
> go out? 


I believe I read somewhere that some of the quilted
jackets are cut from quilted petticoats.

One quilted garment which was Not, is the beautiful
sacque at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a blue
(iirc) gown with the quilting panel running the length
of the pleats.  
It looked glazed, like the calamanco found in 
eighteenth quilts.  Or otherwise moderately shiny.

It was not in the relevant catalog (an exhibit of
costumes related to seasons), and I cannot find it in
the Met website.  :(

But it exists!

Ann in CT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
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Status: RO

Fran,

Do you know the name of the company that your mother worked.  I will check 
the name against my list.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

My mother never worked in the hosiery mills. Her father was a clerk in 
one of them, and her mother might have worked in one before marriage, 
I'm not sure. I think the Philadelphia hosiery business collapsed during 
the Depression. I know very little about my mother's family, they were 
mostly dead before I was born.

Fran

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Fran,
> 
> Do you know the name of the company that your mother worked.  I will 
> check the name against my list.
> 
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 22:36:24 -0400
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Status: RO

Here are some of the Philly addresses:
2623 Bodine St.

Coral St.

18 Strawberry St.

617 Chestnut St.

7th St.

2nd Ave. & St.

York & Jasper Sts.

Indiana Ave.

235 Chestnut St.

1226 Orkney St.

Cedar St.

119 N. 4th St.

17th St.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:08:32 -0500
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Status: RO

I just registered.
The have
 Property from Aristocratic Families including Coaches from a Royal Stable.
I'm going through some of the paintings.

De

-----Original Message-----
I am subscribed to Sotherby's Auction Catalogue Online and this week they
have sent me one called "Important British Paintings". You have to sign up
to fully browse the site but if you do you can get really close up views of
the paintings.
There are several Elizabethan paintings and  Bjarne, many nice 18th Centiry
portraits. Since they are up for auction, they may not be available for
public viewing in the future.

http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails&eve
nt_id=28387

I am still browsing...hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Sarah Paterson



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
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Status: RO

The only listing in this book named "Philadelphia" is the Philadelphia 
Tapestries Mill.  As for hosiery: Allegheny Hosiery Mills AND Thomas Buck 
Hosiery Co.  I am only 1/4 of the way typing the book and have 250 
businesses listed.  I will probably run across more hosiery mills/dealers.

This book was printed by The National Wholesale Dry Goods Association.  It 
does not list every fashion related business but does include other 
manufacturers of scissors, hooks-and-eyes, etc..  With this book I don't 
know what type of business except if mentioned in the business title.  This 
project will take years to find out what kind of businesses these are. 
Sometimes it might call for trips to the cities to research records.

Earlier this month in South Carolina I was doing research for genealogy and 
the SC/NC textile mills.  I pulled probate records on my g-grandfather 
Usher.  When the clerk handed me the records, they were about 3" thick.  The 
other records pulled were about 1/3" thick. Some of the his papers were 
fragile and I handed them to the clerk to copy.  G. Usher was murdered in 
1902 and I thought maybe they were so thick because of details of the 
murder.  The clerk was giggling while photocopying these records.  I came 
out and she had some other clerks and attorneys looking at the records. 
Generally there is a list of household property to be sold to settle the 
deceased debts.  In G-Usher's list was large amounts of muslin, 100+ prs. of 
shoes, etc.  I asked to look at some of his records and discovered that he 
owned a dry goods store.  The 100+ shoes was listed as part of his store's 
merchandise inventory.  On my last day in the trip, I went back to the Admin 
bldg. to see if I could find out the name his store via tax records, etc. 
The person I needed to talk with had left early.  His assistant told me to 
check with building and zoning.  I to the office and asked if they had 
records for a 1902 dry goods store.  Okay, the whole office was laughing 
then.  They asked what is a dry goods store.  I explained.  Then they told 
me to go back archives and ask for the person that I had missed.  All is not 
lost... I stayed an extra day to meet with this man in archives.  Now I have 
them feeling guilty...the asst. said she would have him pull the records and 
copy them for free.

My mother's grandfather also owned a dry goods store around the same time 
frame in central Alabama.  She lives in that area.  I am going to ask if she 
can find an inventory list in his probate records.  I have been researching 
dry goods stores for the past two years or so.  I was thrilled to find an 
inventory of a dry goods stores.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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A friend of mine visited the Danish Museum recently and took photos 
of some of the clothes on display there. She just sent me a photo of 
the child's plaid dress, with the information  card clearly 
displayed. This stated that the dress is made of wool.

Hope this helps.

Suzi

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<7.0.1.0.2.20071025120324.034241b8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] :Danish costume museum online/plaid dress
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 15:07:20 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Suzi,
Do you know if this dress: 
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=69

is on display at the moment?
If so i really want to go out and have a look myself.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] :Danish costume museum online/plaid dress


>
> A friend of mine visited the Danish Museum recently and took photos of 
> some of the clothes on display there. She just sent me a photo of the 
> child's plaid dress, with the information  card clearly displayed. This 
> stated that the dress is made of wool.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Oct 25 09:14:00 2007
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	<200710240815.59565.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:17:05 -0400
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Status: RO

For those who are interested in Philadelphia "fashion" district, I consulted
with a life long Philadelphia resident whose immigrant Italian grandfather
was himself a tailor in the early 20th century, and he replied "that's the
time that the immigrant jews and italians began to take over that trade from
the german immigrants [meaning the late 19th century]....there were a couple
of focus points, mostly in south philadelphia around the south street area,
one remnant still exists, believe it or not, Fabric Row, on south fourth
street, now it is about four blocks of stores between Bainbridge and Queen
streets, some of them have been there since the early part of the century."
Hope this helps.
Candace Perry
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Philadelphia Fashion District

On Wednesday 24 October 2007, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
> I don't know about the 19th C., but there is one today around 2nd or 4th
> Street. I check it out every time we are in Philly.  However, my mind is
> remembering that the present site is somewhat newer, as most of the old
> area was razed for re-development in the last quarter of the 20thC. There
> was one remeining store in the (?) area the first time I was checking out
> yellow pages listings.

The current district in the vicinity of 4th Street and Bainbridge (which is 
what I assume Kathleen is referring to ) is not, strictly speaking, 
a "fashion district".  It's more of a fabric district; there are a 
concentration of good fabric sellers in that area.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 14:49:42 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] :Danish costume museum online/plaid dress
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Status: RO

At 14:07 25/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
>Do you know if this dress: 
>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=69
>
>is on display at the moment?
>If so i really want to go out and have a look myself.
>
>Bjarne

I can always ask her if she saw it. "Recently" was some months ago - 
why don't you phone the Museum and ask - most museums are really helpful.

Suzi



>>A friend of mine visited the Danish Museum recently and took photos 
>>of some of the clothes on display there. She just sent me a photo 
>>of the child's plaid dress, with the information  card clearly 
>>displayed. This stated that the dress is made of wool.
>>
>>Hope this helps.
>>
>>Suzi
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Dear Suzi,
Yes ill do that, it was just because perhaps she had sended you some photos 
of this particular dress.
Then i would know it was on display. I really dream of making that dress one 
day, and i guess i must go and ask if i can examine it closer, i was allowed 
to come some  years ago and photograph gentlemens suits.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] :Danish costume museum online/plaid dress


> At 14:07 25/10/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear Suzi,
>>Do you know if this dress: 
>>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=69
>>
>>is on display at the moment?
>>If so i really want to go out and have a look myself.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> I can always ask her if she saw it. "Recently" was some months ago - why 
> don't you phone the Museum and ask - most museums are really helpful.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
>>>A friend of mine visited the Danish Museum recently and took photos of 
>>>some of the clothes on display there. She just sent me a photo of the 
>>>child's plaid dress, with the information  card clearly displayed. This 
>>>stated that the dress is made of wool.
>>>
>>>Hope this helps.
>>>
>>>Suzi
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 10:26:34 -0700
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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Newsletter - 10/24/07 - Final Markdowns - Last Chance
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Status: RO

Here's this morning's newsletter.
Joan Jurancich

>From: "Denver Fabrics " <df-mailroom@denverfabrics.com>
>Subject: Newsletter - 10/24/07 - Final Markdowns - Last Chance
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research
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Status: RO

Ooooh! Paintings of Queen Elizabeth I and "the Blessed Thomas Seymour",
guess it was a sympathizer who named that one. 
Also Victorian stuff-for Dickens Fair.
:-) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of SPaterson
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research

I am subscribed to Sotherby's Auction Catalogue Online and this week they
have sent me one called "Important British Paintings". You have to sign up
to fully browse the site but if you do you can get really close up views of
the paintings.
There are several Elizabethan paintings and  Bjarne, many nice 18th Centiry
portraits. Since they are up for auction, they may not be available for
public viewing in the future.

http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails&eve
nt_id=28387

I am still browsing...hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Sarah Paterson


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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 05:58:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting markings out of clothes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the advice.
Will try and wash it first, then I'll see what happens.
Hopes it goes out.

Tania


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	<NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIIEFJFCAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Status: RO

We got them from Scholastic Books, years ago. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 9:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1620's question

"Sarah Morton's Day" and "Samuel Eaton's Day" are two great books from
Plimouth Plantation. I think they are available from Amazon also.  They show
children dressing and since the clothing is just like adults, it is very
useful for the reinactor and costumer.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1620's question


Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> Well, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I have a question....
>
> My husband and I may have the chance to do a reading of the original 
> Thanksgiving proclamation at our church on Thanksgiving, and thought 
> it would be fun to dress the part.

Have a look at the Plimouth Plantation site: http://www.plimoth.org/

There are lots of photos of costumed interpreters to draw inspiration from.
They've done a good job with the research and the clothing from the time
period -- clothing worn by the settlers as opposed to the folks home in
London. Somewhere they used to have a section on the clothing, but they've
redone the site *again*, and I can't find it now.



Dawn


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Status: RO

Gloves, anyone?

Joan

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Status: RO

On Thursday 25 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Ooooh! Paintings of Queen Elizabeth I and "the Blessed Thomas Seymour",
> guess it was a sympathizer who named that one.
> Also Victorian stuff-for Dickens Fair.

"Blessed" Thomas Seymour?  Considering he was executed for treason (if it's 
the Tom Seymour I'm thinking of--Katherine Parr's last husband, right?), 
that's quite a promotion.  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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Status: RO

I thought it was pretty funny, too.
:-)
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 6:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research

On Thursday 25 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Ooooh! Paintings of Queen Elizabeth I and "the Blessed Thomas 
> Seymour", guess it was a sympathizer who named that one.
> Also Victorian stuff-for Dickens Fair.

"Blessed" Thomas Seymour?  Considering he was executed for treason (if it's
the Tom Seymour I'm thinking of--Katherine Parr's last husband, right?),
that's quite a promotion.  :-)



--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
available."-- Gregory Benford

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: <ReconstructingHistory-Patterns@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

I've posted this information on about 4 lists so sorry if you get it more 
than once
For those interested in Elizabethan clothing Sotheby's currently has 3
portraits of Queen Elizabeth I on their website which have been in private
collections until now (and therefore relatively inaccessible) you can see
them on this webpage http://preview.tinyurl.com/yr3le7 (the full url is
http://browse.sothebys.com/?c_date=Session%201+|+22+Nov+07%2C+10%3A30+AM<br>&c_image=http://www.sothebys.com/media/live/pub/2007/OCT/p37576_thumb.jpg&c_location=London,%20New%20Bond%20Street&c_name=Important+British+Paintings&cat=1&event_id=28387&g=1&i=1&sale_id=L07123&nb=1&dp=British+Pictures+Before+1850 )
I personally think the first one is the most interesting as it's clearly the
source for one of the re-drawings in Herbert Norris (you can see a scan of
Norris' picture on this page http://www.sapphireandsage.com/girdle.html ) 
but the best bit is that they are zoomable, you can zoom in really close to 
see details that are virtually impossible to see in most online scans, you 
will need to register to see the full size images but if you really object 
to giving Sotheby's your email address you can see if 
http://www.bugmenot.com/ has an id you can use.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Thread-Topic: Theater Group in NC in need of costume help!
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Status: RO

Hi,
I've been a member of the group for several years, I enjoy every post in =
it but I mostly lurk and read.
=20
I live in the Raleigh, NC area and we recently experienced a tragedy =
which I think is something that most costumers would be interested in =
knowing.  Out on the outter banks, there is a theatrical company called =
"The Lost Colony", they've been active for 70 years re-enacting the =
first English settlement on Roanoke Island.  On September 12, 2007 they =
suffered a loss that would have destroyed most organizations of their =
nature - a fire.  The entire costume shop has been destroyed.  They are =
seeking help - any help to replace what was lost - fabric, costumes, =
pro-bono seamstress work, etc.
=20
A 400 year-old mystery haunts Roanoke Island on North Carolina's Outer =
Banks. There, in 1587, about 120 men, women and children established the =
first English colony in the New World, then vanished without a trace, =
leaving historians and archaeologists with one of America's most =
perplexing mysteries.=20
=20
Written by Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright Paul Green, The Lost Colony =
tells their story in the dramatic setting of historic waterside Theatre =
on Roanoke Island. Now in its 70th season, The Lost Colony has been =
attended by millions and brings all the elements of family entertainment =
together for an unforgettable evening under the stars.=20
=20
                      Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire=20
                    Villa Dunes citizen saves Waterside Theatre
=20
(Manteo, NC - September 11, 2007) On 11 September 2007 at 12:35 A.M., a =
resident of Villa Dunes spotted a fire across the sound on Roanoke =
Island, and called 911. Part of The Lost Colony's Waterside Theatre was =
in flames. All fire departments north of Oregon Inlet responded.=20
=20
Fire crews worked swiftly and efficiently to control the blaze, and take =
necessary precautions to save the nearby men's dressing room structure. =
In spite of their efforts, the maintenance shed, which appears to have =
been at or near the source of the fire was completely destroyed. Charred =
pieces of framing in a flimsy skeleton, pointing irregularly toward the =
star-lighted sky, appear to be all that remains of what was the Irene =
Rains Costume Shop. All of the show costumes, all of the historic =
costumes, all of the fabrics, all of the shoes and hats are =
traditionally stored in the costume shop. All are lost-except the court =
costumes which fortunately are still at the dry cleaners, and a few that =
have already been delivered to the NC Museum of History for the Lost =
Colony exhibition scheduled to open in October.=20
=20
     All of the colonist costumes, and all of the Indian costumes were =
destroyed.=20
     All of the vintage costumes are lost=20
     All those built by Irene Rains in the 1940s and 1950s;=20
     And all of Fred Voelpel's in the 1960s, 70s and early 80s;=20
     MANY OF 5-TIME TONY AWARD-WINNING DESIGNER WILLIAM IVEY LONG'S =
COSTUMES WERE ALSO DESTROYED.=20
=20
Despite the loss, the show will go on. The Lost Colony's producing =
organization, the Roanoke Island Historical Association Board of =
Directors, had an emergency meeting to discuss future plans for the
rebuilding and replacement of the costume shop. "Whenever there is a =
disaster of this magnitude, you put one foot in front of another and =
keep going. You don't look behind, you look to the future. The Lost
Colony has rebounded from tragedy before and the show will go on next =
season. This dream will live forever," said John Tucker, Chairman of =
Board of Directors for the Roanoke Island Historical Association (RIHA), =
producer of The Lost Colony.=20
=20
As individuals who love the world of historical costuming, we can help =
this wonderful organization continue it's ongoing live performances long =
into the future. They not only put on the Lost Colony play, but several =
other performances - Shakespere Under the Stars and Tea with the Queen =
(Elizabeth 1). So, yes, they can use all manner of costumes.=20
=20
I've been in contact with some personnel at the Lost Colony organization =
and have offered to assist in whatever way they can utilize, sewing =
costumes, donating garments or fabric, whatever. We love to dip out toes =
into the past by walking around in someone else's "corset" for a day to =
try to imagine their lives. Therefore we all need to contact the =
production and offer what we can so we don't lose something precious =
forever. They can use our help! Afterall, who knows historical and/or =
theatrical costuming better then we do as a group???=20
=20
The address for the lost Colony is:=20
1409 National Park Drive=20
Manteo, NC 27954=20
The costume shop number is: 252-473-2281
The website is: www.thelostcolony.org
The email is: info@thelostcolony.org
=20
ANY costumes will be accepted, as well as costuming supplies.=20
---
=20
Donna Bates
djbates@bigdumbdog.com
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 12:52:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

No, no,  it's Blessed Thomas Percy, not Seymour. He was an earl of Northumberland. 

MaggiRos

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote: On Thursday 25 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Ooooh! Paintings of Queen Elizabeth I and "the Blessed Thomas Seymour",
> guess it was a sympathizer who named that one.
> Also Victorian stuff-for Dickens Fair.

"Blessed" Thomas Seymour?  Considering he was executed for treason (if it's 
the Tom Seymour I'm thinking of--Katherine Parr's last husband, right?), 
that's quite a promotion.  :-)





Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Oh WOW, those are wonderful pics!  Alas you cannot save the very
close-ups, but it is well worth the brief pain of filling out the
forms!  I have long wanted to make that gown and feared to start...
err, I mean the crimson van der Meulan portrait of Elizabeth.

Are those cuttes in the hem?  Some of the lozenges throughout the
fabric look 3-dimensional... could they be gems or silver pieces?  Oh,
and the detail on the girdle and the neckline, and just everything!
*wallows in rapture*  This is just wonderful!  Thank you Elizabeth!!

Meli

On 10/26/07, Elizabeth wrote:

> I've posted this information on about 4 lists so sorry if you get it more
> than once
> For those interested in Elizabethan clothing Sotheby's currently has 3
> portraits of Queen Elizabeth I on their website which have been in private
> collections until now (and therefore relatively inaccessible) you can see
> them on this webpage http://preview.tinyurl.com/yr3le7 (the full url is
> http://browse.sothebys.com/?c_date=Session%201+|+22+Nov+07%2C+10%3A30+AM<br>&c_image=http://www.sothebys.com/media/live/pub/2007/OCT/p37576_thumb.jpg&c_location=London,%20New%20Bond%20Street&c_name=Important+British+Paintings&cat=1&event_id=28387&g=1&i=1&sale_id=L07123&nb=1&dp=British+Pictures+Before+1850 )
> I personally think the first one is the most interesting as it's clearly the
> source for one of the re-drawings in Herbert Norris (you can see a scan of
> Norris' picture on this page http://www.sapphireandsage.com/girdle.html )
> but the best bit is that they are zoomable, you can zoom in really close to
> see details that are virtually impossible to see in most online scans, you
> will need to register to see the full size images but if you really object
> to giving Sotheby's your email address you can see if
> http://www.bugmenot.com/ has an id you can use.
> Elizabeth
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Quoting Sharon Henderson <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>:

> Oh WOW, those are wonderful pics!  Alas you cannot save the very
> close-ups, but it is well worth the brief pain of filling out the
> forms!  I have long wanted to make that gown and feared to start...
> err, I mean the crimson van der Meulan portrait of Elizabeth.

Theoretically, it's in your browser cache somewhere.  I poked around =20
in my Mozilla cache today, but didn't find it.  I haven't tried IE =20
yet.  Generally, if it *is* in cache, it's in pieces like a jig-saw =20
puzzle.

You can use the "print screen" button and then save that piece of the =20
painting.  You have to have a paint/photo program (Paint Shop Pro, =20
PhotoShop, MS Paint -- shoot, you can even paste it into a Word =20
Document!) and then just paste after you use the "print screen" =20
button.   I saved several pieces like that.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Here are the Norris comparison images
http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 7:46 AM
To: ReconstructingHistory-Patterns@yahoogroups.com; Historic Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I've posted this information on about 4 lists so sorry if you get it more 
than once
For those interested in Elizabethan clothing Sotheby's currently has 3
portraits of Queen Elizabeth I on their website which have been in private
collections until now (and therefore relatively inaccessible) you can see
them on this webpage http://preview.tinyurl.com/yr3le7 (the full url is
http://browse.sothebys.com/?c_date=Session%201+|+22+Nov+07%2C+10%3A30+AM<br>
&c_image=http://www.sothebys.com/media/live/pub/2007/OCT/p37576_thumb.jpg&c_
location=London,%20New%20Bond%20Street&c_name=Important+British+Paintings&ca
t=1&event_id=28387&g=1&i=1&sale_id=L07123&nb=1&dp=British+Pictures+Before+18
50 )
I personally think the first one is the most interesting as it's clearly the
source for one of the re-drawings in Herbert Norris (you can see a scan of
Norris' picture on this page http://www.sapphireandsage.com/girdle.html ) 
but the best bit is that they are zoomable, you can zoom in really close to 
see details that are virtually impossible to see in most online scans, you 
will need to register to see the full size images but if you really object 
to giving Sotheby's your email address you can see if 
http://www.bugmenot.com/ has an id you can use.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 01:40:48 -0400
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Status: RO

On Friday 26 October 2007, MaggiRos wrote:
> No, no,  it's Blessed Thomas Percy, not Seymour. He was an earl of
> Northumberland.

What a relief.  I didn't think anyone could even remotely claim that Seymour 
should be "blessed."  Thanks for the correction!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available."-- Gregory Benford

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking 
studs, myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie 

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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In-Reply-To: <200710271453.l9RErNeZ093819@net.indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

I am betting on jewels or studs too. We would have to look at all the other
portraits of her to really figure out what they are. And we need to track
where this painting ends up so that someone can go look at it!! :)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Genie Barrett
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 9:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking 
studs, myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct 27 16:17:27 2007
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking
studs, myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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Subject: [h-cost] Book: Ancient Textiles
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Status: RO

I received my copy from DBBC this week of

Gillis, Carole (ed.) & Nosch, Marie-Louise (ed.) Ancient Textiles 
Production, Crafts and Society. United States: Oxbow Books/David 
Brown Book Co, 2007.  ISBN 1842172026
from the conference http://www3.lu.se/klass/textiles/crossdisciplinary.html

The book contains a large number of papers covering a WIDE time 
period: from the earliest prehistory up to the 18th C. Three papers 
were of particular interest to me:
         1) "Textile Tools and Production during the Viking Age" by 
Eva B. Andersson had a nice table containing the elements of Viking 
costume for men and woment giving the weight of textile for each and 
weaving technique. This estimate is from the reconstruction done in 
Lejre and is based on the Haithabu/Hedeby finds.
         2) "Textile Production in Proto-historic Italy: from 
Specialists to Workshops" by Margarita Gleba has some nice 
information on the weaving of tablet borders and a nice illustration 
of a method using warp-weighted tablets.
         3)  "Woolen Textiles in Archaeological Finds and 
Descriptions in Written Sources of the 14th to 18th Centuries" by 
Kaus Tidow and Eva Jordan-Fahrbach

Please be aware that the Appendix is also available separately as:
Gillis, Carole, and Marie-Louise Nosch. First Aid for the Excavation 
of Archaeological Textiles. [Denmark]: Danish National Research 
Foundation's Centre for Textile Research, 2007. ISBN:9781842172230 
1842172239  OCLC:154660493

Beth 

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From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

At 12:55 PM 10/27/2007, you wrote:
>I am betting on jewels or studs too. We would have to look at all the other
>portraits of her to really figure out what they are. And we need to track
>where this painting ends up so that someone can go look at it!! :)


They look like studs to me, too. Isn't it jsut a gorgeous dress?

I wish I thought I would ever get such a project finished....

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

I finally got a chance to look at this webpage properly it's just amazing, 
thankyou for sharing it. Just one question, do you know what the scale is on 
the patterns? I'm guessing it's most likely to be in centimetres, but I 
can't see it clearly indicated on the patterns and thought it might be 
mentioned somewhere else on the site.
thanks
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:50 AM
Subject: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are on 
wiev on the danish costume museum.
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of the 
costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear besides 
the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern cuts and also 
zoom in

Have fun!

Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
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Status: RO

At 05:06 29/10/2007, you wrote:
>I finally got a chance to look at this webpage properly it's just 
>amazing, thankyou for sharing it. Just one question, do you know 
>what the scale is on the patterns? I'm guessing it's most likely to 
>be in centimetres, but I can't see it clearly indicated on the 
>patterns and thought it might be mentioned somewhere else on the site.
>thanks
>Elizabeth
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" 
><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:50 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
>
>
>For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards 
>are on wiev on the danish costume museum.
>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
>Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of 
>the costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will 
>appear besides the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of 
>the pattern cuts and also zoom in
>
>Have fun!
>
>Bjarne

In the books which have similar patterns it's 1:10, (cms) but I don't 
know about the online patterns, as I haven't had time to study them.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:41:31 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Elizabeth,
The scale of the online patterns are 1 square is 10 centimeters.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum online


>I finally got a chance to look at this webpage properly it's just amazing, 
>thankyou for sharing it. Just one question, do you know what the scale is 
>on the patterns? I'm guessing it's most likely to be in centimetres, but I 
>can't see it clearly indicated on the patterns and thought it might be 
>mentioned somewhere else on the site.
> thanks
> Elizabeth
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:50 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] danish costume museum online
>
>
> For those of you who are interrested clothes from 1700 and onwards are on 
> wiev on the danish costume museum.
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/index.html
> Only danish i am afraid, but look further down under the pictures of the 
> costume, there are smaller pictures to click and they will appear besides 
> the photo of the costume on top. Also pdf files of the pattern cuts and 
> also zoom in
>
> Have fun!
>
> Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Status: RO

 This link will take you to some online images from the Tasha Tudor
costume collection auction catalog.

It is on sale now at the site for $45.00

The few gowns modeled in the Nov-Dec issue of Victoria are exquisite.
I'm subscribing(still awaiting my first "sample" copy)but found the
issue Saturday at Bag & Save, my local discount grocery store, no less!

So happy this magazine is back, if only bi-monthly issues!

Cindy Abel

=20
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Subject: [h-cost] Danish Museum Patternmaker
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Status: RO

I was interested in finding out more about the patternmaker, Karen Jacobi,
who did (most of, if not all) the patterns on the museum web site.  She
seems to have been working in the 1970's -'90's in Denmark.  I've found one
book, but for all the Danish I can read, it might be a book about carving
duck decoys. Bjarne, do you know about her?  Are her patterns published in
book form?  Would that they were available in English translation!!

Jacobi, Karen
- Bevaring af gamle tekstiler. S.m. Minna Kragelund og Else Ostergaard.
Museumstekniske studier, Nationalmuseet 1978. 160 sider. (bevaring,
udstilling)

Martha



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Status: RO

These patterns all look very familiar to me.  Although I'd have to 
check, I believe they have all been published in the following series of 
books. Which I also think are partly translated into English (extended 
captions, if I recall), but again, I'd have to check the actual books 
and don't have time right now.

Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1700–Arene. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1977.
Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1790–1840. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1986.
Bech, Viben. Moden 1840–1890. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1989.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Martha Kelly wrote:

> Are her patterns published in
> book form?  Would that they were available in English translation!!

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	<127030.65318.qm@web32711.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:48:56 -0700
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Status: RO

Oops! I'm terrible with names. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 12:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another soucre for pictoral research

No, no,  it's Blessed Thomas Percy, not Seymour. He was an earl of
Northumberland. 

MaggiRos

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote: On Thursday 25 October
2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Ooooh! Paintings of Queen Elizabeth I and "the Blessed Thomas 
> Seymour", guess it was a sympathizer who named that one.
> Also Victorian stuff-for Dickens Fair.

"Blessed" Thomas Seymour?  Considering he was executed for treason (if it's
the Tom Seymour I'm thinking of--Katherine Parr's last husband, right?),
that's quite a promotion.  :-)





Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The village was
burning when we got here.

Anon.
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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEONJKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:07:00 -0700
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Status: RO

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:53:35 -0500
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Status: RO

:) I've been corrected, they are pinkings not slashes because they are small
cuts or they are cutouts. :)
whoopsie :)

De

-----Original Message-----

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200710271453.l9RErNeZ093819@net.indra.com>	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEONJKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<000b01c81a78$07a264e0$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
In-Reply-To: <000b01c81a78$07a264e0$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 18:43:49 -0500
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Status: RO

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 5:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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From: Ailith  <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
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Status: RO

I think they look like cut out diamonds as well. 

Just my .02

ailith

---- Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: 
> I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
> slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
> fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
> reuse.
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' portraits of Queen
	Elizabeth
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Status: RO

It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is a
portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
he needs to show off his work.

De

-----Original Message-----

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca



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References: <200710271453.l9RErNeZ093819@net.indra.com>	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEONJKAA.otsisto@socket.net><000b01c81a78$07a264e0$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 01:36:41 -0700
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Status: RO

Unfortunately, it's just info I picked up as a Ren Faire court person. I'll
run it by my friends and see if any of them have an actual source for the
info. It came up a few months ago in a discussion of a "new" gown for the
Queen. 
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 4:44 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 5:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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Status: RO

I do recall recently reading a list of sumptuary rules and noticing that
pinking/slashing was one of the things reserved for nobility. It said
something like, slashing/pinking may only be used if the person has a rank
of Baron or above. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 4:44 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 5:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEAGJLAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' portraits of
	QueenElizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 01:45:58 -0700
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Status: RO

I think he was Italian. The sumptuary rules were for England only. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 7:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' portraits of
QueenElizabeth

It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is a
portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
he needs to show off his work.

De

-----Original Message-----

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Museum Patternmaker
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Status: RO

Hi,
As Fran posted the books, i can only add that i dont know much about her. I 
had a telephone call with her manny years ago, because i wanted to tell her 
about some errors she made with one of the patterns. Its not a pattern on 
the website, but a pattern in "Moden i 1700 årene"
The mantua had an error with the sleave pattern, as the armscye had to be 
altered, when all the pleats had ben made in the sleave. Thats all.
But in all i think her patterns are very good!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Danish Museum Patternmaker


>I was interested in finding out more about the patternmaker, Karen Jacobi,
> who did (most of, if not all) the patterns on the museum web site.  She
> seems to have been working in the 1970's -'90's in Denmark.  I've found 
> one
> book, but for all the Danish I can read, it might be a book about carving
> duck decoys. Bjarne, do you know about her?  Are her patterns published in
> book form?  Would that they were available in English translation!!
>
> Jacobi, Karen
> - Bevaring af gamle tekstiler. S.m. Minna Kragelund og Else Ostergaard.
> Museumstekniske studier, Nationalmuseet 1978. 160 sider. (bevaring,
> udstilling)
>
> Martha
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] of jodphurs and orange blossoms
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Status: RO

Continuing Queen Maude and her wardrobe:

I have been trying to get another wedding gown view as I am gathering 
fabric, lace and trim for her 1898 wedding. The gown is trimmed with orange 
blossoms (waxed?). Were these sprigs of true blossoms, or is the term 
'waxed' another way of saying imitation flowers?  Also, have found some 
Honiton lace in my stash that should do quite nicely for the veil. I have a 
question as to the possibility that she might have been using her mother's 
(Alexandra) veil; however I cannot lay my hands on the wedding picture of 
that Royal.  I have the volume of Honiton Lace that documents Victoria's 
encouragement of Honiton as an English lace of quality.  Lots of pictures of 
details of design and the continuing use of Honiton by the Royals of 
succeeding generations. My samples are right-on .

Does anyone know when Jodphurs got that nomen for riding pants? Again, I 
have patterns from several sources that are plainly of the style for both 
men and women, but all use the term 'riding pants'...the male version 
feature the present fly front and the woman's is either a double split waist 
band on both sides or right side placket.  I assume that the word for the 
leg style has Indian origins, but when?

Kathleen 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' portraits
	ofQueenElizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 14:38:55 -0500
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Status: RO

So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
hand me down?

-----Original Message-----
I think he was Italian. The sumptuary rules were for England only.

-----Original Message-----
It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is a
portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
he needs to show off his work.

De

-----Original Message-----

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca



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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCEBFJLAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new'
	portraitsofQueenElizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 14:03:31 -0700
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Status: RO

I think the idea was it so weakened the fabric, it couldn't be re-used. Or
maybe it could be re-used, but not as originally intended. Silk could be
used for a gown for a noblewoman, but only as facings for someone of lesser
rank. I will try to remember/find where I saw the reference. 
S.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 12:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new'
portraitsofQueenElizabeth

So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
hand me down?

-----Original Message-----
I think he was Italian. The sumptuary rules were for England only.

-----Original Message-----
It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is a
portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
he needs to show off his work.

De

-----Original Message-----

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca



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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3
	'new'portraitsofQueenElizabeth
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Status: RO

I wish I could remember where I read it but on some extant pinked clothing
there was a glue substance that I thought sounded like our version of fray
check. Also some weaves and fabric do not fray as badly as some with wear
and tear. And considering that there are extant garments that are pinked, it
shows that they are not that weak. In Janet Arnold's book, PoF 1560 - 1620,
pg. 149 a green satin doublet with major pinking and cut. I doubt that a
farmer would have a pinked doublet as the pinking is not practical but
middle class might.

De

-----Original Message-----
I think the idea was it so weakened the fabric, it couldn't be re-used. Or
maybe it could be re-used, but not as originally intended. Silk could be
used for a gown for a noblewoman, but only as facings for someone of lesser
rank. I will try to remember/find where I saw the reference.
S.

-----Original Message-----
So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
hand me down?


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200710271453.l9RErNeZ093819@net.indra.com>	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEONJKAA.otsisto@socket.net><000b01c81a78$07a264e0$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>	<47267043.3d19360a.5b7b.680d@mx.google.com>
	<005001c81ad1$1d12af70$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
In-Reply-To: <005001c81ad1$1d12af70$020ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:37:08 -0500
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Status: RO

Sweet!

If you find the name of the book that quotes that, that would be great. :)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:45 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I do recall recently reading a list of sumptuary rules and noticing that
pinking/slashing was one of the things reserved for nobility. It said
something like, slashing/pinking may only be used if the person has a rank
of Baron or above. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 4:44 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 5:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new'
	portraitsofQueenElizabeth
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Status: RO

In PoF, there is a gown that it's noted was probably remade at some
point, because of the slashing patterns.  A portion of the skirt I
believe that didn't line up with the rest/all over scheme.  I'll have
to look that up as soon as I finish the current project and
Halloween...

alex

On Oct 30, 2007 4:03 PM, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I think the idea was it so weakened the fabric, it couldn't be re-used. Or
> maybe it could be re-used, but not as originally intended. Silk could be
> used for a gown for a noblewoman, but only as facings for someone of lesser
> rank. I will try to remember/find where I saw the reference.
> S.
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
> hand me down?
>

-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3
	'new'portraitsofQueenElizabeth
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Status: RO

A 1610 loose gown P.118 and I think it was not due to the slashing but the
wear and tear of the hem.

De

-----Original Message-----
In PoF, there is a gown that it's noted was probably remade at some
point, because of the slashing patterns.  A portion of the skirt I
believe that didn't line up with the rest/all over scheme.  I'll have
to look that up as soon as I finish the current project and
Halloween...

alex

On Oct 30, 2007 4:03 PM, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I think the idea was it so weakened the fabric, it couldn't be re-used. Or
> maybe it could be re-used, but not as originally intended. Silk could be
> used for a gown for a noblewoman, but only as facings for someone of
lesser
> rank. I will try to remember/find where I saw the reference.
> S.
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
> hand me down?
>

--
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
_______________________________________________
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new'
	portraitsofQueenElizabeth
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Status: RO

  I am not certain what period we are discussing, but I just took a look at 
the Elizabethan Sumptuary laws (Statues of Apparel).  There is nothing 
listed prohibiting slashes or pinking.  Most of the restrictions are for 
cloth or color (though some are for weaponry or horse tack).

    Remember also, that historically sumpturary taxes have never been 
effective.

Ron Carnegie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:38 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' 
portraitsofQueenElizabeth


> So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
> hand me down?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I think he was Italian. The sumptuary rules were for England only.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is 
> a
> portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
> he needs to show off his work.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
> referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.
>
> Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
> of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching 
> for
> years for that elusive text source.
>
> Chiara Francesca
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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	'new'portraitsofQueenElizabeth
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 22:57:49 -0700
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Status: RO

Yeah, I checked out the stuff online and didn't find the reference to
slashing, but I know I saw it somewhere, this summer. Trouble is, I flit all
over the internet, so it could have been anywhere. It even could have been
an "in-house" rule seen on one of the Ren Faire sites. If I ever come across
it again, I'm flagging it!
S. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3
'new'portraitsofQueenElizabeth

  I am not certain what period we are discussing, but I just took a look at
the Elizabethan Sumptuary laws (Statues of Apparel).  There is nothing
listed prohibiting slashes or pinking.  Most of the restrictions are for
cloth or color (though some are for weaponry or horse tack).

    Remember also, that historically sumpturary taxes have never been
effective.

Ron Carnegie

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:38 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3 'new' 
portraitsofQueenElizabeth


> So how would a middle class or poor person deal with a pinked or slashed
> hand me down?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I think he was Italian. The sumptuary rules were for England only.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> It doesn't make sense that it would be for the rich only in that there is 
> a
> portrait of a tailor with pinking all over. But I guess one could say that
> he needs to show off his work.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
> referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.
>
> Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
> of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching 
> for
> years for that elusive text source.
>
> Chiara Francesca
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:15:10 -0400
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I know I'm not the only one...

I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?

So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
too!
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Status: RO

I am in the process of doing my niece's wedding gown circa 1898.  I was
fortunate enough to see a vintage headwreath for a wedding ensemble and the
blossoms referred to are actually little replica orange blossoms moulded in
wax ,hand painted and I believe they had some sort of shellac over the wax
since it had browned a bit and was cracked.  Hope that helps.

Terri Casey

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Quoting Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com>:


> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?

I completely understand!  I compromised once by wearing my (now)  
husband's Tudor and saying I was Henry VIII.  Another time I wore one  
of my historical costumes, but it's not a period I normally work with,  
it was a one-off.

This year, I'm a historical preenactor!
http://dresdencodak.com/store/shirts.html#preenactment
It's been funny going through all the things I think are necessary for  
a "futuristic" costume.  A corset, for example.  And hardcore boots.   
And welding goggles.

Emma

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:38:59 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Oct 31, 2007, at 1:15 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?


I worked Faire. I don't wear Elizabethans for anything other than  
Elizabethan events anymore (not that I've gone to Elizabethan events  
in recent years nor do any of my Elizabethans fit, but neither is  
relevant).

I'm wearing 18th century Japanese in gaudy plaids and prints, because  
Japanese is still a relatively new costuming phase for me, and it's  
barely 2 months old.

andy


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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Status: RO

I did not have time to put together the costume I wanted to this year, so I 
'cheated' and used a dance costume - Hand embroidered caftan (Palestine 
style),  black turban and about 10 lbs of Afghan jewelry.

Everyone loved it, but I was feeling somewhat cheated. :0)

Now I'm wearing a skull dress, and purple dreadfalls, and am about to go to 
the pub for supper and a drink.

Sheridan P.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume


>I know I'm not the only one...
>
> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>
> So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
> way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
> too!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:23:31 -0600
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Status: RO

Why does everyone think that's cheating?  Why should you have to make a 
new costume every year?  Heck, I make costumes and clothing for 
everyone else all year long so I never have time to make anything for 
myself.  I would be thrilled to have any costume to wear on Halloween.  
For about 5 years now I've been wanting to make a Norma Desmond costume 
from Sunset Blvd for myself--complete with the pinkie cigarette holder, 
sunglasses and chin strap she wears to bed, but I've never had time.  
Maybe next year...

Sylrog

On Oct 31, 2007, at 5:14 PM, Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> I did not have time to put together the costume I wanted to this year, 
> so I 'cheated' and used a dance costume - Hand embroidered caftan 
> (Palestine style),  black turban and about 10 lbs of Afghan jewelry.
>
> Everyone loved it, but I was feeling somewhat cheated. :0)
>
> Now I'm wearing a skull dress, and purple dreadfalls, and am about to 
> go to the pub for supper and a drink.
>
> Sheridan P.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" 
> <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:15 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
>
>
>> I know I'm not the only one...
>>
>> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
>> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
>> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
>> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
>> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
>> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>>
>> So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
>> way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
>> too!
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 31 October 2007, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Why does everyone think that's cheating?  Why should you have to make a
> new costume every year?  Heck, I make costumes and clothing for
> everyone else all year long so I never have time to make anything for
> myself.  I would be thrilled to have any costume to wear on Halloween.
> For about 5 years now I've been wanting to make a Norma Desmond costume
> from Sunset Blvd for myself--complete with the pinkie cigarette holder,
> sunglasses and chin strap she wears to bed, but I've never had time.
> Maybe next year...

I have so much costume-related material--of all types, from LARPs and other 
events--that I never make a Halloween costume either.  I merely scrounge 
through the stuff for a combination of stuff that strikes my fancy.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt."-- Mark Twain
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:00:34 -0400
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Status: RO

I have severel antique headpieces and was never able to tell if they 
featured real waxed blossoms or is they were formed with wax over cloth. 
Thanks for your input. For this doll, I will use tiny faux flowers dipped in 
wax and mount them on a garland of faux boxwood,for the gown.  the headpiece 
will be a wire form with additional flowers treated in the same 
way...following the crown design of one of my antiques.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terri" <auntiegert@att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms


>I am in the process of doing my niece's wedding gown circa 1898.  I was
> fortunate enough to see a vintage headwreath for a wedding ensemble and 
> the
> blossoms referred to are actually little replica orange blossoms moulded 
> in
> wax ,hand painted and I believe they had some sort of shellac over the wax
> since it had browned a bit and was cracked.  Hope that helps.
>
> Terri Casey
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 20:09:27 -0500
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Status: RO

I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It is
a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost entirely
wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The leaves
are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed so
I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck together.

Beth Chamberlain

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Newsletter - 10/31/07 - Final Week - Sunday is the
 Last Day to Buy
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Status: RO

Here's the last chance for purchases from denverfabrics.com

Joan

>From: "Denver Fabrics " <df-mailroom@denverfabrics.com>
>Subject: Newsletter - 10/31/07 - Final Week - Sunday is the Last Day to Buy
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
>[]
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>[]
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>[]
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_Code=3Dly-sw>
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>[]
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>No Coupon Code Needed
>[]
>
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><http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=3DCTGY&Category=
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>[]
>
>
>All Sales Are Final =B7 Sale offers Only Available on Our Web Site
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/>www.denverfabrics.com
>
>We are liquidating our inventory to make way for new owners.
>
>Offers not valid at our Littleton store, which is not being sold
>and will continue to serve its Colorado customers.
>
><http://www.denverfabrics.com/>
>[]
>
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20071101010931.58426CF8048@xen2.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
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Status: RO

If you look at old photos of the turn of the century(20th) you will see some 
wedding gowns that were 'sprigged' with "orange blossoms" for a wedding; 
these trims were then removed (and saved?), so that all such trims might not 
have been used for the headpiece.
Your treasure trove gives me some evidence that the florals might have been 
faux...at least for the middle class.

Thanks for the contribution.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms


>I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It 
>is
> a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost 
> entirely
> wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The 
> leaves
> are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed 
> so
> I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
> attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck 
> together.
>
> Beth Chamberlain
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
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Status: RO

I just took all the pieces out of their box and underneath the tissue paper
they have tried to melt onto was a note: "Orange blossoms on veil Lavilla
May LaCoste Murphy Nov. 15, 1894" That would be my great grandmother. When
she married she was middle class but pretty much at the upper edge of that.
I probably have a hundred pictures of her but no wedding pictures. If anyone
is interested I posted a few pictures of the flowers. Unfortunately they are
quite beaten up.

Beth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms

If you look at old photos of the turn of the century(20th) you will see some

wedding gowns that were 'sprigged' with "orange blossoms" for a wedding; 
these trims were then removed (and saved?), so that all such trims might not

have been used for the headpiece.
Your treasure trove gives me some evidence that the florals might have been 
faux...at least for the middle class.

Thanks for the contribution.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms


>I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It 
>is
> a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost 
> entirely
> wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The 
> leaves
> are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed 
> so
> I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
> attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck 
> together.
>
> Beth Chamberlain
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] on old subject - Elizabethan Corsets
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Status: RO

In going through an old account I found the following email and was
wondering if those involved have more information?

I just made a pair of bodices that was boned, yet intended to wear as
the outer garment on more casual occasions, under a more formal gown
when "dressing up".  I am trying to gather all the documentation that
I can on the subject to support / explain my choices for this and a
bigger project...

thanks
alex


E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
 From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Non-Elizabethan Tudor Corset a Myth! (was
 PrincessElizabeth)
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 11:53:36 -0600
CC:

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small"
> While I agree with you, I would love to know the specific documentation
> you have on this. I am working on an upcoming show and tell lecture for my
> faire community where I deal with various Ren-faire costuming myths being
> busted by showing the historical images, if any, or other historical
> documentation that is available. While this was something I guessed at, it
> isn't something I've been able to show a "proof" of either way. I would
> love to be able to do so.


Well, this is going to be the short version! I have a room full of new cloth
and I want to go sew now! =}

It is largely deductive; it can't help but be, in the absence of some
document from 1550 saying "I wish mightily that they woulde make alle good
speed to invent the bloddy corset already, els I will surely bust myne
seames."

However, the best proof lies in its conspicuous absense in places where it
certainly should be present if worn. For example, here's a quote from
1532-5 by Francois Rabelais:
"Next to the smock they put on the pretty kirtle or vasquin of pure silk
chamelot; above that went the taffatie or tabi vardingale, of white, red
tanne, gray or any other colour; above this taffatie petticoat they had
another of cloth of tissue or brocade, embroidered with fine gold, and
interlaced with needlework or as they thought good."
Now if they wore corsets, it would surely be listed here, yes? You find the
same conspicuous absence in inventories of the day. Instead, the
inventories and other accounts of the day DO list what they used instead.
In the quote above, it is the "pretty kirtle or vasquin" [the vasquine being
a garment with a stiffened bodice and a skirt]. In an inventory of the era,
it is: "3 ells white Parchet (fustian) under the bodice at 27 pfund for
stiffening." For Katherine of Aragon in her last years, it was "Item, three
breeste clothis of Hollande cloth with tapis of the same."

Also helpful are descriptions by foreigners of the odd things they found
while traveling. Here's a quote from a travelogue by a Spanish courtier
who accompanied Prince Phillip to England in 1554; I'm including more that
necessary here, because it's funny, and also useful to anyone dealing with
this period:
"The Queen, however, is not at all beautiful; small, and rather flabby than
fat, she is of white complexion and fair, and has no eyebrows. She is a
perfect saint, and dresses badly. All the women here wear petticoats of
coloured cloth without admixture of silk, and above come coloured robes of
damask, satin or velvet, very badly cut. Their shoes are sometimes of
velvet, but more often of leather, and they wear black stockings and show
their legs up to the knee when walking. As their skirts are not long they
are passably immodest when walking, and even when seated. They are neither
beautiful nor graceful when dancing, and their dances only consist in
strutting or trotting about. Not a single Spanish gentleman has fallen in
love with one of them nor takes any interest in them, and their feelings for
us are the same."
Here we get more speculative and deductive; the Spanish almost certainly
originated the vasquine (described above) and therefore are used to seeing
firm figures. In fact, the supported body is called a "spagnolized body" in
1588. As one can easily fit over a firm underpinning such as the vasquine
(or a corset), clothing fit without the benefit of these firm underpinnings
will indeed look badly cut to a Spanish eye, and a Mary will indeed look
flabby without support.

The travelogue is also useful in tracking who's got it and who doesn't, when
it does arrive. For example, a Venetian ambassador visiting France described
the following in 1577:
"French women have inconcievably narrow waists ...[stuff about
farthingales]. Over the chemise they wear a corset or bodice, that they
call a "corps pique" which makes their shape more delicate and more slender.
It is fastened behind which helps show off the form of the bust."
This tells us that while the French had the corset in 1577, the Venetians
most likely did not. [Note: the word 'corset' here doesn't mean much, for
two reasons. First, this is a translation, and I don't know what word was
actually used in the original. Second, 'corset' didn't mean 'corset' in the
modern sense until around the early 19th century. More on that below.]

Finally, there's the matter of the amount of notice that corsets attracted
when they began to be known. They're commented on, they're preached
against, they're made fun of in verse, and generally start a noticeable
buzz. Earlier, all sorts of fashion innovations are ridiculed; if corsets
existed in the same places earlier, surely they would be ridiculed there as
well! Here's an example:
"These privie coates, by art made strong
with bones, with past, with such like ware
Whereby their backe and sides grow long,
and now they harnest gallants are;
Were they for use against the foe,
Our dames for amazones might goe." (Stephen Gosson, 1596)

>From here, I'll let you look into it, but here's a few tips. First, if you
don't already have them, get or check out:
"Corsets and Crinolines" by Norah Waugh
"The Corset: A Cultural History" by Valerie Steele
Neither is absolutely infallible, but both will be very helpful.
Second, watch out for the terminology in inventories, letters, etc. Like I
noted above, a corset is not a corset. A corse isn't one either, for that
matter. Words and phrases to watch for are:
pair of bodies
petticoat bodies
corps a pique'
French bodice/bodies
privy coat
whalebone bodice/bodies
Third, here is the approximate corset timeline I've worked out. It's rough
and I'm doing it by memory rather than looking at my notes, so disclaimer,
etc.
c1500-20: popularization of the busk [Italian]
c1520: vasquine [Spanish]
c1520-1570: vasquine spreads across Europe; bodices in general are
stiffened, but do not become a separate garment
c1570-77: separate stiffened bodice [French]
c1580-1590: 'French bodice' infiltrates England


Hope this helps. You can distribute it/use it for teaching, but please keep
my name attached!
Elena House

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I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 15:51:36 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

For the last couple of years I've taken my historical clothing and
added fantasy elements to them to make them "costumes" like last year
was the rust colored cote with the green wool over gown with leaf
dagged sleeves, added fall leaf garlands, make-up and jewelry and I
was "Autumn".  Took first place.

alex

On Oct 31, 2007 3:15 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
> I know I'm not the only one...
>
> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>
> So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
> way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
> too!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

My job really isn't conducive to costumes.  I just wear a Halloween  print 
turtleneck (can't really get into the big embellished holiday  sweaters!)
 
Ann Wass



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From: Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

One year I wore my prettiest mostly courtly/romantic
looking garb to work on Halloween and everyone thought
I was a nun. Today I had to wear some sort of costume
since I'm on the social committee. I pulled out a
peplos (ancient Greek) style dress and went as a
goddess. No less than 5 people said to me "So is this
one of your Renaissance dresses?" Sigh.

Mary
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: FW: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:35:44 -0500
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Status: RO

I guess including the link would have been helpful.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=452nioh3.7h56f6ev&x=0&y=-l0cwzu

Beth

-----Original Message-----
From: Beth Chamberlain [mailto:bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:09 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms

I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It is
a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost entirely
wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The leaves
are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed so
I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck together.

Beth Chamberlain

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