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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20071101043549.69DCECF8044@xen2.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 08:27:19 -0400
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Status: RO

These do look similar to some of mine.  Part of this seems to be 
garland-like. I have some wedding photos that I found while traveling, and 
many were from the New Branfells TX. where there was a German culture the 
turn of the 20th C.  The women are dressed in dark (black?) gowns.  What 
distinguishes the pics as 'wedding' is the peculiar garland that drapes 
across the head from knee to knee...no other veil. The grooms sport a 
boutinere of like flowers. My head pieces are all with a wire ring or 
stiffened band ; this is wrapped  with ribbon and the flowers are attached 
with a very fine wire.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 12:35 AM
Subject: FW: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms


>I guess including the link would have been helpful.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=452nioh3.7h56f6ev&x=0&y=-l0cwzu
>
> Beth
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Beth Chamberlain [mailto:bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:09 PM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
>
> I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It 
> is
> a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost 
> entirely
> wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The 
> leaves
> are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed 
> so
> I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
> attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck 
> together.
>
> Beth Chamberlain
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO


> One year I wore my prettiest mostly courtly/romantic
> looking garb to work on Halloween and everyone thought
> I was a nun. Today I had to wear some sort of costume
> since I'm on the social committee. I pulled out a
> peplos (ancient Greek) style dress and went as a
> goddess. No less than 5 people said to me "So is this
> one of your Renaissance dresses?" Sigh.

I feel your pain.  I wore a regency dress as "Emma" one year.  I was  
asked if I was Amish.

Emma

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:pinking and slashing was: 3
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Status: RO

There's an entry in an accounts book for wax used to seal these, and I
believe the quote was "slashes, pinkes & cuttes".  Try PoF, sure, but
if memory serves, it was in Fashion in Detail 16&17th c.  Gotta run,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

 De> Iwish I could remember where I read it but on some extant pinked clothing
there was a glue substance that I thought sounded like our version of fray
check.
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From: Tess <tesswhitecrow@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Have I reached Heaven? :)
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Status: RO

New to the list here and feel like I've found heaven! So many subjects of interest don't know where to look first! Not much interest in this topic where I live. (Haven't found anyone anyway.) Will spend some time looking at all your links and posts as soon as we can. Look forward to future conversations. Off to work now. 

Tess
 
Teach Only Love 
Be Only Love

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From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <870801590710311346p5f64542cx1ae803117d06ef81@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on old subject - Elizabethan Corsets
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Status: RO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> I just made a pair of bodices that was boned, yet intended to wear as
> the outer garment on more casual occasions, under a more formal gown
> when "dressing up".  I am trying to gather all the documentation that
> I can on the subject to support / explain my choices for this and a
> bigger project...

What date are you going for, in each project?

-E House

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Status: RO

A warning, this is very off topic, and i hope noone will be offended of =
me posting this.
But i think it is quite interresting, surprising and something of a =
sensation, very little costume related.


Yesterday evening the danish television showed a program from the danish =
Armory Museum in the heart of Old Copenhagen. Its a 17th century =
building. Some ghosthunters was allowed to put cameras in the Museum, to =
see if something happens. The Museum Staff often experience and sees =
manny manny unexplainable things there.
This is a link to the program, if your connection is good, you can =
easily see it.=20
If you scroll forward the program to a little more than halfway, the =
Museum piece starts.
You can click the right corner bottom button to get a full screen.
They really catched a moving figure at the end of a long corridor at the =
attic, it seems to go out of the wall, go down the hallway, disapear and =
then come back again and go into the wall again. The show takes the clip =
several times later in the show, also some strange lights appears, and a =
photo of a museum sign, wich blurs in a strange way.
Here is the link:
http://www.tinyurl.dk/2063

And please forgive this, but i just had to tell someone, i think it is =
wonderfull they finally got some evidense.........

Bjarne who wants to believe in this.
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:24:25 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on old subject - Elizabethan Corsets
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Status: RO

The date is roughly 1575.  The ultimate project is a gown similar to
Elizabeth I's in the Pelican Portrait.

I am going from the skin out, embroidered smock, bodies/corset,
petticoats, farthingale, etc before I get to the gown itself.

I was intrigued with the idea that the earlier corsets weren't "white"
or necessarily an undergarment.

alex


On Nov 1, 2007 2:10 PM, Exstock <exstock@gmail.com> wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> > I just made a pair of bodices that was boned, yet intended to wear as
> > the outer garment on more casual occasions, under a more formal gown
> > when "dressing up".  I am trying to gather all the documentation that
> > I can on the subject to support / explain my choices for this and a
> > bigger project...
>
> What date are you going for, in each project?
>
> -E House
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Have I reached Heaven? :)
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On Nov 1, 2007, at 11:27 AM, Tess wrote:
> New to the list here and feel like I've found heaven!


Welcome to the list, Tess!  I remember that feeling...  I found H- 
costume when I was a broke mother of two small children with  no  
other means of interacting with adults who shared my passion.  It's  
been my community for a dozen years now, and has brought me a trove  
of information and some good friends.  When I was considering  
starting my business, I came here for help and advice, and found it.   
I truly think my life would have been very different, and not nearly  
as rewarding, without this list.

Margo Anderson


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References: <870801590710311346p5f64542cx1ae803117d06ef81@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] on old subject - Elizabethan Corsets
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:36:59 -0700
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Status: RO

Looking in my old (1940's) dictionary, it says "stay" was both an
Anglo-Saxon word for the ropes used to hold up a mast and Old French for
prop or support. Maybe the use of cording to prop the bust got the two words
mixed up to mean the same thing. Also, this book says "corset" is from Old
French "cors" for body and that in the Middle Ages it was a close fitting
outer garment. Perhaps the English word "bodies" was just a literal
translation from the French "cors" or "corset", seeing as how sometimes the
English abhorred anything French. :-)
If anyone has the original quote, in the original language, it would be
interesting to see what the writer actually wrote.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 1:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] on old subject - Elizabethan Corsets

In going through an old account I found the following email and was
wondering if those involved have more information?

I just made a pair of bodices that was boned, yet intended to wear as the
outer garment on more casual occasions, under a more formal gown when
"dressing up".  I am trying to gather all the documentation that I can on
the subject to support / explain my choices for this and a bigger project...

thanks
alex


E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
 From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Non-Elizabethan Tudor Corset a Myth! (was
 PrincessElizabeth)
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 11:53:36 -0600
CC:

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small"
> While I agree with you, I would love to know the specific 
> documentation you have on this. I am working on an upcoming show and 
> tell lecture for my faire community where I deal with various 
> Ren-faire costuming myths being busted by showing the historical 
> images, if any, or other historical documentation that is available. 
> While this was something I guessed at, it isn't something I've been 
> able to show a "proof" of either way. I would love to be able to do so.


Well, this is going to be the short version! I have a room full of new cloth
and I want to go sew now! =}

It is largely deductive; it can't help but be, in the absence of some
document from 1550 saying "I wish mightily that they woulde make alle good
speed to invent the bloddy corset already, els I will surely bust myne
seames."

However, the best proof lies in its conspicuous absense in places where it
certainly should be present if worn. For example, here's a quote from
1532-5 by Francois Rabelais:
"Next to the smock they put on the pretty kirtle or vasquin of pure silk
chamelot; above that went the taffatie or tabi vardingale, of white, red
tanne, gray or any other colour; above this taffatie petticoat they had
another of cloth of tissue or brocade, embroidered with fine gold, and
interlaced with needlework or as they thought good."
Now if they wore corsets, it would surely be listed here, yes? You find the
same conspicuous absence in inventories of the day. Instead, the inventories
and other accounts of the day DO list what they used instead.
In the quote above, it is the "pretty kirtle or vasquin" [the vasquine being
a garment with a stiffened bodice and a skirt]. In an inventory of the era,
it is: "3 ells white Parchet (fustian) under the bodice at 27 pfund for
stiffening." For Katherine of Aragon in her last years, it was "Item, three
breeste clothis of Hollande cloth with tapis of the same."

Also helpful are descriptions by foreigners of the odd things they found
while traveling. Here's a quote from a travelogue by a Spanish courtier who
accompanied Prince Phillip to England in 1554; I'm including more that
necessary here, because it's funny, and also useful to anyone dealing with
this period:
"The Queen, however, is not at all beautiful; small, and rather flabby than
fat, she is of white complexion and fair, and has no eyebrows. She is a
perfect saint, and dresses badly. All the women here wear petticoats of
coloured cloth without admixture of silk, and above come coloured robes of
damask, satin or velvet, very badly cut. Their shoes are sometimes of
velvet, but more often of leather, and they wear black stockings and show
their legs up to the knee when walking. As their skirts are not long they
are passably immodest when walking, and even when seated. They are neither
beautiful nor graceful when dancing, and their dances only consist in
strutting or trotting about. Not a single Spanish gentleman has fallen in
love with one of them nor takes any interest in them, and their feelings for
us are the same."
Here we get more speculative and deductive; the Spanish almost certainly
originated the vasquine (described above) and therefore are used to seeing
firm figures. In fact, the supported body is called a "spagnolized body" in
1588. As one can easily fit over a firm underpinning such as the vasquine
(or a corset), clothing fit without the benefit of these firm underpinnings
will indeed look badly cut to a Spanish eye, and a Mary will indeed look
flabby without support.

The travelogue is also useful in tracking who's got it and who doesn't, when
it does arrive. For example, a Venetian ambassador visiting France described
the following in 1577:
"French women have inconcievably narrow waists ...[stuff about
farthingales]. Over the chemise they wear a corset or bodice, that they call
a "corps pique" which makes their shape more delicate and more slender.
It is fastened behind which helps show off the form of the bust."
This tells us that while the French had the corset in 1577, the Venetians
most likely did not. [Note: the word 'corset' here doesn't mean much, for
two reasons. First, this is a translation, and I don't know what word was
actually used in the original. Second, 'corset' didn't mean 'corset' in the
modern sense until around the early 19th century. More on that below.]

Finally, there's the matter of the amount of notice that corsets attracted
when they began to be known. They're commented on, they're preached against,
they're made fun of in verse, and generally start a noticeable buzz.
Earlier, all sorts of fashion innovations are ridiculed; if corsets existed
in the same places earlier, surely they would be ridiculed there as well!
Here's an example:
"These privie coates, by art made strong with bones, with past, with such
like ware Whereby their backe and sides grow long, and now they harnest
gallants are; Were they for use against the foe, Our dames for amazones
might goe." (Stephen Gosson, 1596)

>From here, I'll let you look into it, but here's a few tips. First, if 
>you
don't already have them, get or check out:
"Corsets and Crinolines" by Norah Waugh
"The Corset: A Cultural History" by Valerie Steele Neither is absolutely
infallible, but both will be very helpful.
Second, watch out for the terminology in inventories, letters, etc. Like I
noted above, a corset is not a corset. A corse isn't one either, for that
matter. Words and phrases to watch for are:
pair of bodies
petticoat bodies
corps a pique'
French bodice/bodies
privy coat
whalebone bodice/bodies
Third, here is the approximate corset timeline I've worked out. It's rough
and I'm doing it by memory rather than looking at my notes, so disclaimer,
etc.
c1500-20: popularization of the busk [Italian]
c1520: vasquine [Spanish]
c1520-1570: vasquine spreads across Europe; bodices in general are
stiffened, but do not become a separate garment
c1570-77: separate stiffened bodice [French]
c1580-1590: 'French bodice' infiltrates England


Hope this helps. You can distribute it/use it for teaching, but please keep
my name attached!
Elena House

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--
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or with
finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20071101043549.69DCECF8044@xen2.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:40:32 -0700
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Status: RO

Wow, those look so real. I have a tree in my yard and the blossoms/buds look
just like that. So much better than today's silk flowers. To me, the buds
look like cotton swabs. Maybe they're made the same way. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Chamberlain
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:36 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: FW: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms

I guess including the link would have been helpful.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=452nioh3.7h56f6ev&x=0&y=-l0cwzu

Beth

-----Original Message-----
From: Beth Chamberlain [mailto:bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:09 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] "wax" orange blossoms

I have the remains of either a great or gr-gr grandmother's headpiece. It is
a mix of cloth flowers coated in wax and "buds" which appear almost entirely
wax though they are too light so the core must be something else. The leaves
are green fabric very lightly coated. Unfortunately it's been disjointed so
I have no idea how it was originally arranged. And, it was stored in an
attic and the wax softened enough that parts are quite well stuck together.

Beth Chamberlain

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>> One year I wore my prettiest mostly courtly/romantic
>> looking garb to work on Halloween and everyone thought
>> I was a nun.
>
> I feel your pain.  I wore a regency dress as "Emma" one year.  I was 
> asked if I was Amish.

Yeah... I went to the medieval fair in Bayeux one year and I was wearing RED 
tunics. I was greeted with "Bonjour ma soeur"!

And then there's the time I was invited to a medieval wedding... the groom 
was wearing a tricorn hat :-/ 

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Status: RO

Hi,
Although it is in danish, lots of the sites has illustrations.
The danish book "Dagligtliv i Norden i det 16. =E5rhundrede" by Troels =
Lund, has ben published to the internet. It is several thick books.
The book about costume is here:
http://runeberg.org/dagligt/4/
Manny manny interresting illustrations.

Bjarne
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Subject: [h-cost] Conference publication: Textiles and Text
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Status: RO

Below is a conference proceedings that has=20
several papers that look quite interesting. Wish=20
that the price was a bit better though. Currently=20
only available from the publisher and Amazon-UK...

Beth

Textiles and Text (Maria Hayward and Chris Bennett eds.)   October 2007
The 3rd conference volume from the AHRC Tesearch=20
Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile=20
Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University=20
of Southampton ISBN: 9781904982265 =A347.50 (=20
$95.00) Paperback 268 Pages 140 colour, 173 half-tones Illustrations
http://www.archetype.co.uk
from the conference=
 http://www.annatextiles.ch/sympindex/06_tex/texrandtex.htm

Textiles and Text
Edited by Maria Hayward and Elizabeth Kramer
This publication focuses on the interrelationship=20
between archival and bibliographic research and=20
the study of extant objects. Papers consider how=20
archival and bibliographic research can inform=20
our knowledge of textiles and dress, in terms of=20
their production, consumption, dissemination and=20
deterioration and in turn, how the study of=20
extant objects can give added depth to this=20
analysis. The authors include conservators,=20
curators, historians and conservation scientists.
These postprints are the third in a series of=20
three volumes of papers emanating from the=20
conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for=20
Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile=20
Conservation Centre, University of the=20
Southampton, and published by Archetype=20
Publications. The themes for the preceding volumes are:

=95 Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic=20
Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and=20
Interpretation (published by Archetype 2005)
=95The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting,=20
Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials (published by Archetype 2006)

CONTENTS

Foreword Maria Hayward
Introduction Elizabeth Kramer

Into the archive
Researching the domestic interior: the example of=20
the =91Chintz Lady=92, Elsie de Wolfe Penny Sparke
=91I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it=20
myself=92: using documentary sources in the=20
analysis of the archaeological textile finds from=20
Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt Fiona J.L. Handley
What Essex man wore: an investigation into=20
Elizabethan dress recorded in wills 1558 to 1603=20
Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
Abundant images and scant text: reading textile pattern books Philip A.=
 Sykas
Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence=20
in identifying forgotten azlon fibres from the mid-20th century Mary Brooks

Adopting other strategies, using other sources
=91Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions=92:=20
constructing the Costume Research Image Library (CRIL) Jane Malcolm-Davies
Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII=92s wardrobe: an=20
investigation of the base Maria Hayward
A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steamship Edward F.=
 Maederv
(Ad)Dressing the century: fashionability and floral frocks Jo Turney
Sound recording and text creation: oral history=20
and the Deliberately Concealed Garments Project Dinah Eastop

Uncovering institutions
Late medieval Ladies of the Garter, 1348=961509:=20
fact or fiction? Shelagh Mitchell
Lace and documents: the Istituzioni di Ricovero e=20
Educazione (IRE) collections in Venice Isabella Campagnol Fabretti
Undated, unattributable and unfinished: forgotten=20
samplers and their re-evaluation through archival=20
research Joyce A. Taylor Dawson

Tracing textiles in trade: from account books to patents
Fashioning the Tudor court Cinzia Maria Sicca
Costume at the court of Cosimo and Eleonora de=20
Medici: on fashion and Florentine textile production Bruna Niccoli
Bought, stolen, bequeathed, preserved: sources=20
for the study of 18th-century petticoats Clare Rose
Analysing patents and objects: a preliminary=20
investigation into the crinolines of W.S. Thomson Katy May
Patents as a source of information about=20
synthetic textile dyes Rosemary M. Baker

The interaction between East and West
A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and=20
perceptions of Japan Elizabeth Kramer
Dragon robes and prairie ladies: the incongruity=20
between archives and artefacts Julia Petrov
Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles=20
in early 20th-century domestic interiors Sarah Cheang

Domesticity and gender explored and challenged
=91A Linnen Pockett a prayer Book and five keys=92:=20
approaches to a history of women=92s tie-on pockets Barbara Burman
The antimacassar in fact and fiction: how textual=20
resources reveal a domestic textile Alice McEwan
=91Inoffensively feminine=92: First World War=20
military concert parties, female impersonators and their costumes Sarah=
 Norris
Inspiring textile collections: textiles and text=20
combined in Winchester School of Art Library and=20
in the Special Collections, Hartley Library,=20
University of Southampton Libraries Linda Newington

Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians
Thistles and Thrissels: Scottish Covenanting=20
flags of the 17th and early 18th century George Dalgleish and Lynn McClean
Dye analysis, textiles and text: unravelling the=20
puzzle of Queen Charlotte=92s state bed Maria Jordan and Mika Takami
Joining forces: the intersection of two replica=20
garments Hilary Davidson and Anna Hodson

Information uncovered by conservation
Understanding the full story: acknowledging=20
intimate interactions of textiles and text as=20
both help and hindrance for preservation Cordelia Rogerson
The interaction of textile and text: the=20
conservation of a mid-16th-century chemise binding Maria Hayward
The investigation and documentation of a=20
communion table carpet in Corpus Christi College, Oxford Florence Maskell
Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text=20
hidden within a 1718 coverlet: documentation of=20
papers hidden within an early 18th-century=20
coverlet using transmitted light photography=20
Karen N. Thompson and Michael Halliwell
Jewish ceremonial textiles and the Torah:=20
exploring conservation practices in relation to=20
ritual textiles associated with holy texts Bernice Morris and Mary M. Brooks
A flag=92s life in New York: The New York State=20
Battle Flag Preservation Project Sarah C. Stevens

Objects without documentation: the role of=20
conservation science in revealing more about these artefacts
Collecting a near infrared spectral database of=20
modern textiles for use of on-site=20
characterisation Emma Richardson, Graham Martin and Paul Wyeth
Photodegradation of Phormium tenax fibres: the=20
role of naturally occurring coumarins Gerald J.=20
Smith, Raukura Chadwick, Ngaire Konese, Sue=20
Scheele, Stephen E. Tauwhare and Roderick J. Weston

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Subject: [h-cost] wheelfarthingale
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Status: RO

Browsing the book i mentioned earlyer today, finally found the =
illustration with the wheel farthingale lying on the floor.
But i am very disapointed, the illustration is dutch and from 1636.
I had seen this illustration in another book by Broby Johansen and he =
didnt mention the source for the illustration, and not the year either.
So i am dissapointed.=20
Still believe that wheel farthingales exsisted.
Here is the picture from Dagligtliv I Norden i det 16. =E5rhundrede.
Even that this is a french farthingale, i still believe its made from =
iron rings.=20
 http://runeberg.org/dagligt/9/0020.html

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> I know I'm not the only one...
>
> I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>
> So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
> way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
> too!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>   
I know exactly what you mean.  I have used my historical costumes as a 
base - for example once I added some accessories to my hangarok and went 
to a "cartoons" party as Honi from Hagar the Horrible (I made a tinfoil 
helmet for my rubber duck and she came as Kvack) - but on their own, 
they just feel like clothes.

JEan
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
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cathy@thyrsus.com said>
>I have so much costume-related material--

Yeah, it's like that here, too.  I found an unfinished STTNG med corps
uniform languishing in a box.  All it took was zipper installation,
shoulder pad removal (& re-build), rank pips, hems at wrists & a bit
of elastic for under the dance shoes... what?!  dance shoes?  Yeah, I
went to friday night waltz (www.fridaynightwaltz.com) did the time
warp, the scots reel, the polka & the hustle.  Awesome.  Star Trek
uniforms are great for dancing.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Thanks, Bjarne!

That's nifty.

Melanie


On Nov 2, 2007, at 10:07 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Although it is in danish, lots of the sites has illustrations.
> The danish book "Dagligtliv i Norden i det 16. =E5rhundrede" by =20
> Troels Lund, has ben published to the internet. It is several thick =20=

> books.
> The book about costume is here:
> http://runeberg.org/dagligt/4/
> Manny manny interresting illustrations.
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone
here as well:

Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"

I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The publication
party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the
books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is available in the US
for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
version in that it is larger than 8 x 10") from
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr
y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1    (David Brown Book company the US
distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)

Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley
publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society
www.costumesociety.org.uk .  You can subscribe, or buy individual articles.
I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (the present
one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset.  I'm not a penny
pinching young student, but an employed and old student working on my MA as
an Independent Scholar with my local university.  This is why I paid the
Student rate when I subscribed.  The individual article is for sale on-line
for $25.

The writers frequently have access to items that I didn't even know about.
The color chart is something I've been needing for years (and is pronounced
by one of my professor friends as a very good rendition.)

If you can't afford it, you can't.  That means you know what to ask your
Liberian for.  Old issues are available as are individual articles.

As you can see from the Table of Contents below, the Journal ranges over a
wide range of periods and places.

Wanda

Included in No. 41 are:

 The pair of straight bodies' and a pair of drawers' dating from 1603 which
Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey by Janet Arnold

'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance (Henry VIII timeframe) by
Cliodna Devit

'Rainbow for a Reign:  The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe (Queen Elizabeth,
with a color chart to give you an idea of what the name actually means -
such as 'maiden's blush' etc.

"The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailors' Guild
or Company of Merchants": By Nigel Sleigh-Johnson

"A Fashionable Confinement:  Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman" by
Harriet Waterhouse (not Elizabethan)

'Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?'  Thompson's
Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline by Lucy-Clare Windle

"The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple:  Confirmation and
First Confirmation Dress, 1850-2000 by Anthea Jarvis

The Wearing of the Red:  The Redcoat and the British Brand" by Nigel Arch

"A clinging Liberty tea-gown instead of a magenta satin':  The Colour Red in
Artistic Dress by Liberty & Co.' by Anna Buruma

"Modern Fashions for Modern Women:  The Evolution of New York Sportswear in
the 1930s" by Rebecca Arnold

"Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place" by Rosemary Harden
(my personal opinion is that his place is probably face down with a steak
through his heart - Wanda)

New Books and Articles by James Snowden and Naomi E.A. Tarrant


Selective List
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Rikke D. Giles
> Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:23 PM
> To: TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
>
>
> On 11/03/2007 12:47:05 PM, Wanda Pease wrote:
> > Got mine two weeks ago.  The American Distributor is David Brown
> > Books and the cost for the Paper back (comes in a Sleeve) is $96.  T
>
> Bleh, I ordered mine last July and still haven't gotten it!  Lucky
> you :)  I think I will have to contact David Brown.
>
> Aelianora
>
>
> This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com -
> more commonly known as The Renaissance Tailor; Recreating 16th
> and 17th Century Clothing.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
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>

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Status: RO

Me too - we do mostly Fantasy / Science Fiction costumes, and we have 
several racks of them in the attic, etc.  However, probably 98% of 
them require knowledge of the source, or at least an appreciation of 
SF, to "get" what they are.  So what do I wear to work for 
Halloween?  A 20-year old pirate coat, with suitable shirt and 
breeches.  People at least "get" pirates.....

There were only about 20 who dressed up, most were "closet 
scrounging" costumes.  My fave though was a co-worker, who's a bit of 
a Goth anyway, who did a pretty good version of Abby from N.C.I.S. 
(the TV show).

Sandy

At 08:09 PM 10/31/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:15:10 -0400
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
>
>I know I'm not the only one...
>
>I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
>clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
>one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
>something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
>have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
>also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>
>So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
>way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
>too!

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote :

>And then there's the time I was invited to a medieval wedding... the =
groom=20
>was wearing a tricorn hat :-/=20

Yes, a lot of people seem to use "medieval" as a general term for "long =
ago". When I do 17th century the public often refer to us as medieval.

Here in Britain adults don't dress up for Hallowe'en, but we did once wear =
costumes to work for one of those charity fundraising days. I wore 17th =
century clothing, and I too felt a bit as though I were cheating.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Some years ago I was invited to play hostess at a "Shakespeare  
dinner," a fund-raiser for a nearby not-very-good-but-very- 
pretentious Shakespeare theater--they wanted me to be one of Henry  
VIII's wives, as if that much to do with Shakespeare and certainly as  
if anybody ALIVE would want to play one of them gals. An early-music  
group I costumed was performing, and I knew what they were wearing-- 
handsome costumes (if I say so as shouldn't) intended to suggest a  
range of the couple of centuries their music is drawn from. I asked  
what the other performers would be wearing and learned that I was the  
ONLY "character"--everyone else who would be working at the event  
would be wearing "Shakespearean" outfits they were putting together  
themselves from costume shops, prom dresses, tights, and basic  
Simplicity tunics. So I figured historical accuracy was not going to  
be much of an issue, and since I had very little time to get ready...

And since they were paying me $50 and I had no spare change of my own  
to make a real investment...

I myself have NO really good costumes--I costume community theater,  
mainly, and I'm usually the director in those situations.

So I too got a Simplicity pattern that I thought would say  
"Shakespeare," bought some great fabric from the Clearance table at a  
local upholstery store, and presented myself not as one of Henry's  
dead dears but as the Duchess of Yore. It went over very well,  
although most people didn't get the joke (maybe they thought I'd said  
"York").

Anyway, that's the past to most: "yore." A mixed bag of pretty  
things, odd things, big sleeves, and flat shoes.

These Hallowe'en stories have been very entertaining, but not very  
surprising, since where the general public is saying "Yore," all  
these specialists are saying "1482" or "1624"!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Nov 5, 2007, at 4:11 AM, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote :
>
>> And then there's the time I was invited to a medieval wedding...  
>> the groom
>> was wearing a tricorn hat :-/
>
> Yes, a lot of people seem to use "medieval" as a general term for  
> "long ago". When I do 17th century the public often refer to us as  
> medieval.
>
> Here in Britain adults don't dress up for Hallowe'en, but we did  
> once wear costumes to work for one of those charity fundraising  
> days. I wore 17th century clothing, and I too felt a bit as though  
> I were cheating.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 07:46:13 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Just reread my posting. Of course one wants to play Henry's wives-- 
they wore wonderful clothing--I just thought it was a ghoulish notion  
to have somebody playing one of the gals at a SHAKESPEARE evening....  
--Ruth Anne

On Nov 5, 2007, at 7:13 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

> Some years ago I was invited to play hostess at a "Shakespeare  
> dinner," a fund-raiser for a nearby not-very-good-but-very- 
> pretentious Shakespeare theater--they wanted me to be one of Henry  
> VIII's wives, as if that much to do with Shakespeare and certainly  
> as if anybody ALIVE would want to play one of them gals. An early- 
> music group I costumed was performing, and I knew what they were  
> wearing--handsome costumes (if I say so as shouldn't) intended to  
> suggest a range of the couple of centuries their music is drawn  
> from. I asked what the other performers would be wearing and  
> learned that I was the ONLY "character"--everyone else who would be  
> working at the event would be wearing "Shakespearean" outfits they  
> were putting together themselves from costume shops, prom dresses,  
> tights, and basic Simplicity tunics. So I figured historical  
> accuracy was not going to be much of an issue, and since I had very  
> little time to get ready...
>
> And since they were paying me $50 and I had no spare change of my  
> own to make a real investment...
>
> I myself have NO really good costumes--I costume community theater,  
> mainly, and I'm usually the director in those situations.
>
> So I too got a Simplicity pattern that I thought would say  
> "Shakespeare," bought some great fabric from the Clearance table at  
> a local upholstery store, and presented myself not as one of  
> Henry's dead dears but as the Duchess of Yore. It went over very  
> well, although most people didn't get the joke (maybe they thought  
> I'd said "York").
>
> Anyway, that's the past to most: "yore." A mixed bag of pretty  
> things, odd things, big sleeves, and flat shoes.
>
> These Hallowe'en stories have been very entertaining, but not very  
> surprising, since where the general public is saying "Yore," all  
> these specialists are saying "1482" or "1624"!
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> On Nov 5, 2007, at 4:11 AM, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>
>> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote :
>>
>>> And then there's the time I was invited to a medieval wedding...  
>>> the groom
>>> was wearing a tricorn hat :-/
>>
>> Yes, a lot of people seem to use "medieval" as a general term for  
>> "long ago". When I do 17th century the public often refer to us as  
>> medieval.
>>
>> Here in Britain adults don't dress up for Hallowe'en, but we did  
>> once wear costumes to work for one of those charity fundraising  
>> days. I wore 17th century clothing, and I too felt a bit as though  
>> I were cheating.
>>
>> Kate Bunting
>> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:25:02 -0600
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Status: RO

I remember a story of a couple who sang at the New York Renaissance festival
back in the 70's. They said that it looked like the the people that owned
and ran the Fest. considered  "renaissance" anything pre Beatles. :)

-----Original Message-----
Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote :

>And then there's the time I was invited to a medieval wedding... the groom
>was wearing a tricorn hat :-/

Yes, a lot of people seem to use "medieval" as a general term for "long
ago". When I do 17th century the public often refer to us as medieval.

Here in Britain adults don't dress up for Hallowe'en, but we did once wear
costumes to work for one of those charity fundraising days. I wore 17th
century clothing, and I too felt a bit as though I were cheating.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.


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From: Sunshine Buchler <sunny_buchler@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii" now "The
	Journal of the Costume Society"
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Status: RO

> Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manl=
ey=0A> publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society=
=0A> www.costumesociety.org.uk .  You can subscribe, or buy individual arti=
cles.=0A> I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (=
the present=0A> one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset.  I'm n=
ot a penny=0A> pinching young student, but an employed and old student work=
ing on my MA as=0A> an Independent Scholar with my local university.  This =
is why I paid the=0A> Student rate when I subscribed.  The individual artic=
le is for sale on-line=0A> for $25.=0A=0ADoes anyone know - if I sign up no=
w will I get issue #41? or is the on-line per-artical order the only way to=
 get those articles?=0A=0AThanks!=0A    -sunny
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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii" now "The
	Journal of the Costume Society"
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 16:24:47 +0000
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Status: RO

Greetings,  
No, if you sign up now you will not get the back issue.  You have to contact them and order it separately.  I have just received confirmation that the issue has gone back to print.  (My order was lost in the mail, so I have to wait for the reprint)  They should be ready soon.  Contact the person in-charge of memberships and she can direct you to the person who is handling the selling and mailing.

Etiennette

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Sunshine Buchler <sunny_buchler@sbcglobal.net> 

> > Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley 
> > publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society 
> > www.costumesociety.org.uk . You can subscribe, or buy individual articles. 
> > I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (the present 
> > one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset. I'm not a penny 
> > pinching young student, but an employed and old student working on my MA as 
> > an Independent Scholar with my local university. This is why I paid the 
> > Student rate when I subscribed. The individual article is for sale on-line 
> > for $25. 
> 
> Does anyone know - if I sign up now will I get issue #41? or is the on-line 
> per-artical order the only way to get those articles? 
> 
> Thanks! 
> -sunny 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: [h-cost] NESAT 9
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My copy of NESAT 9 just arrived. It has a long list of very 
interesting articles over a wide geographical area and time period 
(if there is interest, I will try to list the contents over the next few days).

Beth

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Hello the list!

  My name is Liadain, I used to belong here a couple of years ago; I
primarily do blackwork and 16th-century, but am pretty much interested in
everything else as well....

Your Very Good Health!

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 04:30:18 -0600
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Status: RO

They also taked about it on their tape and mentioned the top seller was a
man that collected beach waste and created "picturesque" sculptures of rats,
bats, and buzzards. :)

-----Original Message-----

Ah! See, they meant it was "A" renaissance, not "THE"
Renaissance. :-)

MaggiRos
--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> I remember a story of a couple who sang at the New
> York Renaissance festival
> back in the 70's. They said that it looked like the
> the people that owned
> and ran the Fest. considered  "renaissance" anything
> pre Beatles. :)


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Ah! See, they meant it was "A" renaissance, not "THE"
Renaissance. :-)

MaggiRos
--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> I remember a story of a couple who sang at the New
> York Renaissance festival
> back in the 70's. They said that it looked like the
> the people that owned
> and ran the Fest. considered  "renaissance" anything
> pre Beatles. :)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote :
> 
> >And then there's the time I was invited to a
> medieval wedding... the groom
> >was wearing a tricorn hat :-/
> 
> Yes, a lot of people seem to use "medieval" as a
> general term for "long
> ago". When I do 17th century the public often refer
> to us as medieval.
> 
> Here in Britain adults don't dress up for
> Hallowe'en, but we did once wear
> costumes to work for one of those charity
> fundraising days. I wore 17th
> century clothing, and I too felt a bit as though I
> were cheating.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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I begged for my subscription to start with Volume 41.  When I subscribed I
specifically asked to start with 41 because I knew it was the one I really
wanted.  Ms. Hague was very nice and made sure I got the correct one to
start with.

You will always be surprised what you can get if you just ask.  I have a new
Supervisor who drives us crazy when we point out that we can't get X supply.
He asks if we have asked for it.  It's a horrible thing to have to admit
that you haven't actually asked, you just assumed and...   Then you go
slinking off and do ask and get what you want.  It would be demoralizing if
it wasn't getting me so many goodies I just assumed I couldn't have.

This can be true of museum collections and libraries.  The National Portrait
Gallery and a few of the other big, nose in the air museums can be horrible
to work with because they don't choose to work with the public.  On the
other hand many smaller museums and libraries are delighted when the public
whose taxes and donations support them show intelligent interest.

It's why I have a copy of an original Vecellio, printed in 1589.  It was
housed in the Library at Darmstadt, Germany.  They had no problems with
first of all bringing it out to be seen, and then photographically copying
it for about 10 cents a page.  The book was the equivalent of a paperback of
its time.

They would have let us look over their hand done manuscripts too, but not
take pictures.  This stuff exists in Europe by the ton.  In the last few
years fire, flood, and insurrection have destroyed huge amounts of the Human
heritage.  Many old world places are desperate to put their stuff onto the
net where it will remain even if the original is blown up by some deluded
idiot.

Wanda
>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 9
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 22:55:32 -0400
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Status: RO

On Monday 05 November 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> My copy of NESAT 9 just arrived. It has a long list of very
> interesting articles over a wide geographical area and time period
> (if there is interest, I will try to list the contents over the next few
> days).

Someone actually posted a substantial portion of the table of contents, not 
too many days ago.

I plan to buy it, but probably not for a few months at least, since I just 
succeeded in finding--and buying--a copy of NESAT 2--something that rarely 
turns up on the used book market.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt."-- Mark Twain
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sunny,

I checked into this for a while last night.  I was confused like you.  I 
also do not understand RRS.   I found Vol. #42 on a website for almost $75 
USD.  To become a UK Costume Society member from the U.S. is $50.  This 
price includes the journal.

I am interested in the journal's article about first communion/confirmation 
dresses.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Status: RO

I believe that I was the one who posted the original announcement and 
the titles of 5 of the 40 papers. The amazing thing was that I 
ordered on 23 Oct and it arrived 5 Nov... in rural Arkansas (USA)!

Congrats on scoring NESAT 2!

Beth

At 01:02 PM 11/6/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 22:55:32 -0400
>From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 9
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <200711052155.33247.cathy@thyrsus.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>On Monday 05 November 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > My copy of NESAT 9 just arrived. It has a long list of very
> > interesting articles over a wide geographical area and time period
> > (if there is interest, I will try to list the contents over the next few
> > days).
>
>Someone actually posted a substantial portion of the table of contents, not
>too many days ago.
>
>I plan to buy it, but probably not for a few months at least, since I just
>succeeded in finding--and buying--a copy of NESAT 2--something that rarely
>turns up on the used book market.
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume & Fashion museums in Milan
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Status: RO

You'd think they'd be easy to find.  Milan & fashion, goes together
rather like bread & butter, doesnt it, yet I can seem to locate one.
There's a Silk Museum (Museo della Seta) in Como about an hr due N of
Milan, but I know nothing about it.  If you've been, can you give a
quick review, please?

We're leaving for Italy on a whim tomorrow. (DH has to work; I' have
to go as a technical advisor. <grin>)  We'll be in Torino, Genoa too.
If you can think of something worth a costumer's (or a castle
junkie's) while, I'd go & report.  I do know about the Egyptian Museum
in Torino & all those lovely art galleries in Milan.  There's even a
new one in Genoa.

Your kind suggestions most welcome!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 14:53:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Newcomer (sort of)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Welcome back!!

Kimiko

(aka Joane Silvertoppe)



--- Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>
wrote:

> Hello the list!
> 
>   My name is Liadain, I used to belong here a couple
> of years ago; I
> primarily do blackwork and 16th-century, but am
> pretty much interested in
> everything else as well....
> 
> Your Very Good Health!
> 
> Liadain


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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the journal of the Costume Society
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 20:24:34 -0600
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Status: RO

Dear Penny and Sunny (and others),

Costume is an academic journal and so more likely to be found in an  
academic library.  You can ask your [college or public] library if  
they will do article requests via InterLibrary Loan.  My library gets  
them electronically and sends the patron a link; it's up to the  
patron to Save the file or print it.  You can see the contents of the  
volume (note that there is a typo -- vol. 41 is the 2007 issue) at

http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/journal.html

The IngentaConnect website -- the platform that makes Maney  
publications available electronically -- indicates that it is  
possible to buy articles with a credit card... I haven't looked into  
this but I suspect that it is very expensive.  :-)

You can also look up (or ask your librarian to look up) the journal  
in WorldCat and find out which library in your area has a  
subscription.  Then make a trip over there and make your own copies!   
I searched for "Costume the journal of the Costume Society" (because  
"costume" is much too broad a term) and found that there are 4  
libraries in my state that have subscriptions -- 3 of them are state- 
supported schools and so I have the privilege of using their  
periodical reading rooms.  Also, some states have a State Library  
system that can do ILL for any state employee -- it's worth checking  
into, if you think you qualify.

http://www.worldcat.org/

And for those of you who attend the International Congress on  
Medieval Studies in Kalamazoo in May:  last year, Maney had a table  
in the vendor hall and they just happened to be selling copies of the  
latest issue for $40.  I have my fingers crossed that they will be  
offering vol. 41 at the next Congress!

Suzanne

p.s. Penny, don't worry about RSS.  It's just another way to get  
early notification of things that interest you.  Your kids (or  
librarian) can probably explain it to you.  :-)  And vol. 42 of  
Costume won't be published 'til next summer so I think that website  
is suspicious.


On Nov 6, 2007, at 1:01 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>
> Sunny,
>
> I checked into this for a while last night.  I was confused like  
> you.  I also do not understand RRS.   I found Vol. #42 on a website  
> for almost $75 USD.  To become a UK Costume Society member from the  
> U.S. is $50.  This price includes the journal.
>
> I am interested in the journal's article about first communion/ 
> confirmation dresses.
>
> Penny Ladnier,

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 523
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 06 November 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> I believe that I was the one who posted the original announcement and
> the titles of 5 of the 40 papers.]

You may have been.  I thought I'd remembered seeing a contents list for NESAT 
IX, but when I looked, couldn't find it.  (I did find the program schedule 
for the NESAT X conference, which will be in Denmark in May 2008--nifty 
topics there too.)


> The amazing thing was that I 
> ordered on 23 Oct and it arrived 5 Nov... in rural Arkansas (USA)!

That's great.  Congratulations.  

I'm planning to wait a few months until David Brown cuts their price (they 
will, eventually).  

>
> Congrats on scoring NESAT 2!

Thanks.  It shows up darn seldom on the used book sites--the last time I saw a 
copy was a good three or four years ago.

Now the only one I need is NESAT 1--which I have never seen in a book search.  
I think you were the one who said that there were very few copies printed, 
and it may be that only the participants got copies.  :-(


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt."-- Mark Twain
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Cutting for All!" [long]
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Status: RO

There've been some great book recommendations on the list lately --  
and that reminds me that I never sent my review of "Cutting for  
All! : the sartorial arts, related crafts, and the commercial paper  
pattern; a bibliographic reference guide for designers, technicians,  
and historians" by Kevin L. Seligman.

As we suspected, it's an annotated bibliography.  As with all such  
products, its usefulness decreases with time.  And this was published  
in 1996 -- before a lot of us had internet access.  There are other  
ways to acquire this information now.  That's not to say that this is  
a bad book, just that it's not an essential purchase for a home  
library.  It's worth a look if you can find it in your library or get  
it on Inter-Library Loan.

The first chapter, on the "History of the development of the  
publication of books, professional journals, and the emergence of the  
paper pattern industry" is 46 pages long, profusely illustrated, and  
quite interesting.  The author tells us that the "earliest surviving  
work on cutting" was published in 1580 in Spain; that the first  
French work is dated 1671, the first English work appeared in 1789  
and the first in America in 1809.  So most of the chapter deals with  
the 19th century, with just a page or two on the 20th century.

The second chapter is "Chronological listings" and has exactly 3  
publications listed for 1500-1599, one of which is Alcega in the  
original and one of which is the English translation published in  
1979... oh well.  There are 3 Spanish publications and one French  
listed for 1600-1699.  There are a whopping eleven listings for  
1700-1799 but 2 of them are 20th century articles about extant  
garments.  For the 19th century, he subdivides by decade with just a  
page or two at first then it really takes off by 1880.  The chapter  
ends with 1989 (another drawback to bibliographies is that they are  
often slightly out of date by the time they see print!).  Aside from  
the exceptions noted above, the listings in each chronological  
section are contemporary works *not* historical treatments that  
happened to be published in a particular decade.  Works by Janet  
Arnold, Dorothy Burnham, Jean Hunnisett, Blanche Payne, et al.,  
appear in the "Costume and dance" chapter later in the book.

Other chapters list "Professional journals" (American and English)  
published for the professional tailor and dressmaker; "Journal  
articles" (American, English, Other) from costume related  
professional journals that feature pattern drafts as part of the  
article; and various subjects such as "Folk and national dress",  
"Millinery" and "Commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and  
catalogs".  The indexes are extensive.  Each entry is brief, with  
only a sentence or two to describe the work; sometimes he lists a  
specific library that has the work (the U.S. Library of Congress,  
Harvard, The British Library, the New York Public Library, etc.); non- 
English language materials are noted but there's very little coverage  
of non-English language journals (I was surprised that I could only  
find one of Janet Arnold's Waffen-und Kostumkunde articles).  The  
indexes are extensive -- about 40 pages worth.  I would have liked to  
see some cross-references (in the chronological listing for 1944, I  
found "Short-cuts to sewing success" by the DuBarry Patttern Company;  
in the chapter on pattern companies, I found that DuBarry Patterns  
were manufactured by Simplicity as the house brand for Woolworth's  
from 1934 to 1946 and no mention of their other publication) but  
that's probably because I'm lazy.  ;-)

My final observation is that there is no attempt to evaluate any of  
these sources.  They are all presented without comment as to their  
veracity and/or usefulness.  He did borrow annotations from other  
bibliographies but these are indicated by letter codes that are  
explained in the Introduction.

Questions?
Suzanne

On Oct 17, 2007, at 4:44 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Does anyone know anything about this book?
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani
>
> Zuzana
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Cutting for All!" [long]
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Quoting Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>:

> There've been some great book recommendations on the list lately --


What a great posting, thank you,

-C.


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Status: RO

I've had _Cutting for All_ since it was published, and have corresponded 
briefly with Kevin Seligman about it.  My friend Robb Shep (R. L. Shep 
books on costuming) was also involved in the project, and has discussed 
it with me.

Kevin Seligman had a large personal collection of works on costuming, 
most of which which he has since donated to the library at the LA County 
Museum of Arts. This bibliography is partly based on his collection, and 
partly on books sold by Robb Shep during the long period when Robb was a 
dealer in used costuming books (he has since sold that business to Fred 
Struthers, though Fred mostly sells new books these days).  Robb said 
the bibliography is also based partly on Betty Williams' collection, 
which went to the University of Rhode Island after her death.

Kevin Seligman's original plan was to have extensive annotations for 
every work. Robb saved many years of his own catalog listings and 
annotations, and he said he offered them to Kevin Seligman to use as 
needed. But Seligman's publisher did not want to invest in a book that 
long, therefore very expensive to print, and which after all would have 
a limited specialist audience; and so the publisher insisted that 
Seligman cut way down on the annotations.

I too wish Keven Seligman would update _Cutting for All_. A year or so 
ago I bought a book from him that the LA Museum had not wanted because 
it was a duplicate of one they already had. At that time I asked him if 
he had any plans to update _Cutting for All_ soon, and he said no. 
Note, for an updated edition to be published, he would have to sell his 
publisher on the idea.  As this edition is still in print, they will 
want to sell out their print run first, even if they plan a new edition 
at some point in the future.  However, it still might happen someday and 
I certainly hope it does.  But note that the listings are mostly of 
antique sources, and they are not going to get any more outdated than 
they are already.

I think it is a very useful bibliography.  There are many fewer early 
sources listed, quite simply because many fewer early sources were 
published. It is in the second half of the 19th century that an 
explosion in publishing books and magazines, on pattern cutting as well 
as many other subjects, took place. Also, in the 19th century there was 
a fever for inventing scientific improvements, and again, this affected 
pattern cutting as well as many other things.

Although I would like more annotations to describe what is in a book 
before I buy it somewhere on the used market, I think it would have been 
completely out of place for Seligman to evaluate the sources for 
"veracity" and "usefulness."  The bibliography is intended, as far as I 
can tell, to be used by everyone with any interest in historic 
garment-pattern cutting for any purpose whatever, or even only in books 
on the subject. (Used-book dealers often refer to "Seligman," for 
example.) Sources useful to some people will necessarily be useless to 
many others. It's a list, not a review media.

As for "veracity," most of the sources listed are old, not modern works. 
  While it is certainly true that the authors of original sources can 
make mistakes, be misled, be biased, lie, etc. (being just as human as 
modern authors), I'm not sure how you'd apply the concept of "veracity" 
to a list of technical works on garment cutting and sewing, which is 
what this bibliography is.  Certainly, the 19th-century style of titling 
books on any subject is bombastic (my favorite book title in this 
bibliography is _The Archetypical Consummation_), but I just take that 
for granted.

I don't think the intention was ever to list every library that has a 
copy of every book, which is another thing that would greatly lengthen 
_Cutting for All_. You need to do a library search on a book if it 
interests you. I don't know why Seligman listed any libraries at all.

At any rate, I've gotten a great deal of use out of _Cutting for All_ in 
building my own collection.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Suzanne wrote:

> 
> My final observation is that there is no attempt to evaluate any of  
> these sources.  They are all presented without comment as to their  
> veracity and/or usefulness.  He did borrow annotations from other  
> bibliographies but these are indicated by letter codes that are  
> explained in the Introduction.
> 
> Questions?
> Suzanne

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This on-line store has some silk taffeta in a pretty color they call 
"antique brass" on sale for $7.99 a yard -
http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/catalog.php?cat_id=54&page=1

I'm seriously tempted but I'm trying not to buy more fabric right now.  I've 
ordered from this place before and had no problems.

Janet


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Subject: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list
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Status: RO


I=92m gathering information for the planning stages of a new project, and I=
=92d love to get input from the people on this list.

If you could consult a reference book that was an encyclopedia of clothing =
and textiles in the British Isles (including Ireland) in the Middle Ages (d=
efined as Anglo-Saxon period through 1450), what entries would you expect t=
o find in it?

This might include anything from large overviews ("headwear") to articles o=
n specific terms or garments ("wimple," "hood"); social and economic issues=
 ("sumptuary law," "guilds"); techniques ("gore," "couching"); important so=
urces and artifacts ("Bayeux tapestry," "Black Prince=92s surcote"), or any=
thing else related to dress and textiles or the study thereof.

What would you look up? Go wild. Free-associate. Brainstorm. There's nothin=
g too big or too small for this question. Just keep it to concepts relevant=
 to the British Isles, 400-1450.

And as long as we=92re making a wish list, if there=92s a particular living=
 scholar you wish would be the author of an article -- the person you=92d c=
onsider the world's expert on that topic =96- tell me that too. For example=
:

Wool trade - John Munro
Ermine =96 Elspeth Veale
etc.

List as many as you like. Ultimately I will be compiling a list of many hun=
dreds of items.

Thank you all, again, for being my focus group!

-- Robin










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To: h-costume@indra.com, margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine Suiting
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Status: RO

Yes, it's another forwarding by your on-line fabric-stash enabler.
Joan

>Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 07:15:38 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Fabric.com" <list@fabric.com>
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine Suiting
>
>This message contains graphics. If you do not see the graphics, 
><http://sdm3.rm04.net/servlet/MailView?ms=MTE4OTkwMAS2&r=Njg0Njk0NTAxMQS2&j=MzU4MDcwMzES1&mt=1>click 
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>[]
>
>
>  Apparel & Fashion Fabric
>
>Quilting Fabric
>
>Home Decor Fabric
>
>Notions & Patterns
>
>CLEARANCE
>
>Fabric.com Deal of the Day
>
>
>Wednesday 11/07/07
>
>25% Off Wool Gabardine Suiting
>
>Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time
>
>[]
>
>
>Sale Price: Starting at $6.74 yd
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Regular Price: $8.98 yd
>
>Compare at: $12.99 yd
>
>
>This wool gabardine has a small diagonal twill weave. It's got nice 
>drape and would be appropriate for skirts, dresses, jackets and 
>lined trousers. 100% wool, 58'' wide.
>Shop Now
>

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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk taffeta (should be "Ban taffeta")
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Status: RO

I have a bone to pick with the stuff.

Many years back as a DJ I was working a wedding. I start to hear a slight hiss-
hiss noise and think, oh, great, speaker or amp problem just when I don't need 
it.

I check my equipment settings, faders, mic levels, lines, all those other tech 
things. Nothing amiss. I check my cables, all okay.

I go to one speaker. Nothing wrong. The other speaker, nothing wrong. Stand 
back, nothing seems wrong but still the damned hiss.

Then I realise the cause, three bridesmaids in taffeta dresses dancing,

-C.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk taffeta
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Status: RO

Yummm, both of the silk faille look yummy too.


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Status: RO


 Hilarious!,=20
thanks for the giggle,
=20
Laurie
=20
> Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 10:57:53 +1100> From: stilskin@netspace.net.au> To:=
 h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk taffeta (should be "Ban ta=
ffeta")> CC: > > I have a bone to pick with the stuff.> > Many years back a=
s a DJ I was working a wedding. I start to hear a slight hiss-> hiss noise =
and think, oh, great, speaker or amp problem just when I don't need > it.> =
> I check my equipment settings, faders, mic levels, lines, all those other=
 tech > things. Nothing amiss. I check my cables, all okay.> > I go to one =
speaker. Nothing wrong. The other speaker, nothing wrong. Stand > back, not=
hing seems wrong but still the damned hiss.> > Then I realise the cause, th=
ree bridesmaids in taffeta dresses dancing,> > -C.> > > -------------------=
-----------------------------------------> This email was sent from Netspac=
e Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au> > __________________________________=
_____________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mai=
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Book Signing
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Status: RO

For those of you in the Barrie, Ontario region, come join me at Chapters
this Saturday, November 10, at 76 Barrie View Drive, 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. =
I=92ll
be signing copies of my cookbook, Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, and my =
new
historical fiction, Shadow Song.

=20

Regards,

Lorina Stephens

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of quality customs shower doors, books by Lorina Stephens,
hand-crafted cooperage, fine art, embroidery supplies, Porter music =
boxes.=20

Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens

                             Recipes of a Dumb Housewife,  by Lorina
Stephens

519-799-5577 HYPERLINK "mailto:info@5rivers.org"info@5rivers.org - =
HYPERLINK
"http://www.5rivers.org"www.5rivers.org

=20


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From: zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Night caps
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 07:58:40 -0800
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Status: RO


Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,=20
            "Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap=20
             had just settled down for a long winter's nap"
=20
When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they contructed?  =
How did they stay on?
=20
I'm assuming they may have been worn any time that fires were the only sour=
ce of home heating, but I have only seen images from late 1800's and early =
1900's.  I'd like to make some.
Anyone know?
=20
Laurie
=20
=20
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
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Status: RO

I'm not going to Ontario for a book signing, but congratulations!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

> For those of you in the Barrie, Ontario region, come join me at Chapters
> this Saturday, November 10, at 76 Barrie View Drive, 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. I’ll
> be signing copies of my cookbook, Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, and my new
> historical fiction, Shadow Song.
> 
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:34:22 +1100
From: Jane Stockton <jane_stockton@webcon.net.au>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Night caps
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Status: RO

At 02:58 AM 9/11/2007, you wrote:

>Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,
>             "Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap
>              had just settled down for a long winter's nap"
>
>When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they 
>contructed?  How did they stay on?
>
>I'm assuming they may have been worn any time that fires were the 
>only source of home heating, but I have only seen images from late 
>1800's and early 1900's.  I'd like to make some.
>Anyone know?
>
>Laurie

Well, they must have been fairly common in the Elizabethan period as 
there are quite a few surviving examples in museums of highly 
embroidered nightcaps.

Try searching the V&A, Cleveland Museum of Art, and the MFA Boston. 
They all have online images.

For construction - 
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/art%26scribes/Embroid/nightcap.htm

Cheers,
Jane


------------------------------------
Jane Stockton - jane_stockton@webcon.net.au
Barony of Mordenvale, Kingdom of Lochac

In Prayse of the Needle - http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/ (personal website)
Historical Needlework Resources - http://medieval.webcon.net.au/ 
(resource website)
The Needles' Excellency - http://laren.blogspot.com/ (blog)

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Night caps
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Status: RO

Hi,
Also 17th and 18th century have some very nice night caps survived.
If you would like to try to embroider an 18th century one, there is a 
gorgeous pattern in the book "Costume Close Up" from Colonial Williamsburg. 
It has the draft of the embroidery two.
Night caps were used by men, not only when they went to bed, but also when 
they were relaxed at home, wearing a banyan (house coat). In 18th century 
they were ideal, because when mundane, they didnt have to wear a wig, but 
could use the night cap in stead. They were made with manny beautifull 
embroideries, with polycrome collours and the banyans was also very 
collourfull.

Bjarne
 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Night caps
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In a message dated 11/8/2007 6:02:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Also  17th and 18th century 


And I'd say as far back as medieval. You can see them in illustrations  
sometimes. Of course I can't think of any now, but I remember doing a show and  
making a simple linen one to be worn under a broad brimmed hat. I saw it in an  
illumination. It had long ties [untied and hanging] that would tie under the  
chin. And of course this was a man out and about in the day, but the same kind  
of close coif-like cap could serve the purpose of a night cap...which was  to 
keep your head warm. It covered his ears.
 
For all we know the Roman could have worn them. I mean, think about it.  Such 
a useful item before central heating.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Night caps
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Status: RO

Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,
            "Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap
             had just settled down for a long winter's nap"

When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they contructed? 
How did they stay on?

-----------------

My dad stills wears them and my mom makes them for him out of flannel.  Last 
time they visited he left one behind. This one is cut on the fold and it 
looks a bit like a quarter circle pie shaped piece, except it is a bit flat 
on top and still sloping outward slightly at the bottom. There is one flat 
felled seam and a hem of about an inch and a half.  It's a bit loose when he 
wears it and near as I knew he just puts it on and it stays on.

Susan in Bellevue, WA. 

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So it looks as though I'd be safe using a basic coif pattern with ties (my =
hair is very slippery).
It seems I may have been wrong about the time period I quoted originally, t=
hough.  I did a google and found 2 New York Times articles from 1883 and 18=
84 (related one to the other) about a doctor who suggested going "back" to =
wearing night caps "like our grandfather's did" in order to eliminate dream=
ing and have peaceful sleep.  The second article states that the author has=
 tried this and indeed it works, altho "men are no more likely to wear a ni=
ght cap than women are to wear sensible footwear".
=20
There was also a reference to gentlemen wearing them as Bjarne suggests, no=
t as sleepwear, but as informal dress at home during the day.  I hadn't con=
sidered the wig issue!
=20
Thanks all,
Laurie
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!=A0 Play Star Shuffle:=A0 the word scramble =
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=3Dstarshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc=
t=
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Night caps
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> Well, they must have been fairly common in the Elizabethan period as > th=
ere are quite a few surviving examples in museums of highly > embroidered n=
ightcaps.> > Try searching the V&A, Cleveland Museum of Art, and the MFA Bo=
ston. > They all have online images.> > For construction - > http://katerin=
a.purplefiles.net/art%26scribes/Embroid/nightcap.htm>=20
This is fantastic, thanks Jane!
=20
Laurie
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  
> In a message dated 11/8/2007 6:02:30 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> 
> Also  17th and 18th century 
> 
> And I'd say as far back as medieval. You can see
> them in illustrations  
> sometimes. Of course I can't think of any now, 

I remember an illumination of a couple who'd just
conceived a baby getting the baby's soul shipped down
by heavenly express (rather like the Holy Spirit in
the Annuciation genre), and both mother and father
have their heads covered.  Late fourteenth/early
fifteenth century.

Not much of a reference, I know.  Sorry.

Ann in CT

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Night caps
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Status: RO

One of the ace pilots who flew with the Red Baron, a delightful youngster
named Kurt Wolff, had a nightcap with a black velvet band that he wore as a
lucky talisman.  Somewhere I have a pic of him and another officer; the guy
is teasing him by holding up the tail of the nightcap.  :)  Lothar von
Richthofen remembered it as being made from "knitted blue silk".  I read
somewhere a long, long time ago that the nightcap had belonged to Wolff's
late father, a minor politician who died when Wolff was a very young child.
Can't remember where I read it, alas...  In the pics I've seen of Wolff in
the nightcap, the garment seems like the stereotypical one we see in old
illustrations: hangs off the head with a long tail, and possibly something
at the end like a tassel.  The black velvet band was probably the part that
held it on the head.

The pilots of the Great War were a very superstitious lot.  I know of one
who flew with a teddy bear in the open cockpit of his plane (though I'm sure
the bear was lashed down well!).

Cheers,
Meli/Sharon

Laurie asks:

Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,
           "Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap
            had just settled down for a long winter's nap"

When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they contructed?
 How did they stay on?

I'm assuming they may have been worn any time that fires were the only
source of home heating, but I have only seen images from late 1800's and
early 1900's.  I'd like to make some.
Anyone know?

Laurie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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Status: RO

Congrats Lorina!   I really wish I could be there for it.  :-)

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:30 AM 11/8/2007, you wrote:
>For those of you in the Barrie, Ontario region, come join me at Chapters
>this Saturday, November 10, at 76 Barrie View Drive, 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. I'll
>be signing copies of my cookbook, Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, and my new
>historical fiction, Shadow Song.
>
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Lorina Stephens

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From: juliana foulare <txldyjuliana@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
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Greetings all,
     I have a question for everyone. I have been wanting a machine that does embroidery for yearsss. It now seems that this will become a reality. After looking at soooo many I'm confused (not that it takes much to do that) and can't make up my mind. My question is this  in your opinion which one do you "feel" is best and why you feel this way? You can either answer on the list or to me privately.   txldyjuliana@yahoo.com
   
  Thank you for your time,
      Dianna

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
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In a message dated 11/9/2007 3:35:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
txldyjuliana@yahoo.com writes:

After  looking at soooo many I'm confused (not that it takes much to do that) 
and  can't make up my mind. My question is this  in your opinion which one do 
 you "feel" is best and why you feel this way?


I don't have experience with their embroidery machines, but I would  probably 
go with a Bernina.  I do have a regular Bernina machine and,  through the 
shop where I bought it, have heard people who are into embroidery  and are very 
happy with theirs.  The people who make Berninas, in  Switzerland, really seem 
to care about producing a quality product.
 
Ann Wass



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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 01:59:09 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Night caps
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Status: RO

I don't know exactly when they started being worn but there is a 
famous portrait miniature of Henry VIII's illegitimate son Henry 
Fitzroy wearing one.  Oh, now that I think of it, I seem to remember 
a number of 15th century French illuminations depicting people in bed 
wearing them, as well...  At that time they would have most likely 
been made of linen, but it is rather difficult to generalize about 
construction.  I seem to remember some of the extant ones I've seen 
in the V&A being of a four panel construction, tapering to a point at 
the crown.....if that makes any sense.  I don't remember seeing any 
ties but then I wasn't looking for any.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:58 AM 11/8/2007, you wrote:

>Here's a suitably esoteric question for this group.  Night caps.  As in,
>             "Mama in her kerchief and I in my cap
>              had just settled down for a long winter's nap"
>
>When were they worn?  What were they made of ?  How were they 
>contructed?  How did they stay on?
>
>I'm assuming they may have been worn any time that fires were the 
>only source of home heating, but I have only seen images from late 
>1800's and early 1900's.  I'd like to make some.
>Anyone know?
>
>Laurie

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Status: RO

That sounds like a biggin. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 4:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Night caps

 
In a message dated 11/8/2007 6:02:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Also  17th and 18th century 


And I'd say as far back as medieval. You can see them in illustrations
sometimes. Of course I can't think of any now, but I remember doing a show
and making a simple linen one to be worn under a broad brimmed hat. I saw it
in an illumination. It had long ties [untied and hanging] that would tie
under the chin. And of course this was a man out and about in the day, but
the same kind of close coif-like cap could serve the purpose of a night
cap...which was  to keep your head warm. It covered his ears.
 
For all we know the Roman could have worn them. I mean, think about it.
Such a useful item before central heating.



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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:50:46 -0600
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
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On Nov 9, 2007 5:33 AM,  <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/9/2007 3:35:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> txldyjuliana@yahoo.com writes:
>
> After  looking at soooo many I'm confused (not that it takes much to do that)
> and  can't make up my mind. My question is this  in your opinion which one do
>  you "feel" is best and why you feel this way?
>
>
> I don't have experience with their embroidery machines, but I would  probably
> go with a Bernina.  I do have a regular Bernina machine and,  through the
> shop where I bought it, have heard people who are into embroidery  and are very
> happy with theirs.  The people who make Berninas, in  Switzerland, really seem
> to care about producing a quality product.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
Along those same lines, I have a pffaff, and I love it.  My mother
loved it too before she let me have it, some twenty-five years ago.
since then she has had several pfaff's that do all kinds of things.
she purchased a nearly top of the line pfaff for machine embroidery
and really likes it, even several years later.

I've always done my embroidery by hand so I can't offer much help with the why's

alex



-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT: Book Signing 
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Status: RO

	Thanks, Fran and Danielle. I have two more signings coming up this
month, one at Smith Books in Owen Sound, and Chapters in Guelph. 

	Books can be had online through all the major chains, in a few
select book stores, and signed directly from me through my website.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of  books by Lorina Stephens, quality custom shower doors,
hand-crafted cooperage, fine art, embroidery supplies, Porter music boxes. 
Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens
                             Recipes of a Dumb Housewife,  by Lorina
Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: embroidery machine
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At 7:50 AM -0700 11/9/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  > In a message dated 11/9/2007 3:35:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>>  txldyjuliana@yahoo.com writes:
>>
>>  After  looking at soooo many I'm confused (not that it takes much 
>>to do that)
>>  and  can't make up my mind. My question is this  in your opinion 
>>which one do
>>   you "feel" is best and why you feel this way?

I have 2 POEMs also known as Husygrams. They are embroidery only 
heads--I have wonderful sewing machines, solid metal, so just needed 
the embroidery part. It talks to the computer with a simple cable, 
designs are handled on the computer, no cards that can go bad and 
over time become hard to find. The digitizing program is not 
automatic, but is very powerful. The stitches are very nice, and 
there are 2nd party digitizing/sewing out programs available.
Best part? I got my 2nd machine for $100 with extras. It is not in 
production, but there are a number out there...
They are good sturdy home use machines that can handle occasional 
large runs of patches/t shirts/whatever for your favorite club or the 
occasional very large embroidery project.
If you are looking to do commercial work, there are better machines 
out there than the various home machines...and the $$$ reflect that 
<G>
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:12:19 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Night caps
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 11/9/2007 10:10:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

That  sounds like a biggin. 



***************
 
 
Indeed.
 
Main Entry: 2biggin
Function:  noun
Etymology: Middle French 
beguin
: _CAP _ (javascript:lookWord('cap');) : a : a  child's cap b : _NIGHTCAP _ 
(javascript:lookWord('nightcap');) 




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
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Status: RO

On Nov 9, 2007, at 12:34 AM, juliana foulare wrote:
> Greetings all,
>      I have a question for everyone. I have been wanting a machine  
> that does embroidery for yearsss. It now seems that this will  
> become a reality. After looking at soooo many I'm confused (not  
> that it takes much to do that) and can't make up my mind. My  
> question is this  in your opinion which one do you "feel" is best  
> and why you feel this way? You can either answer on the list or to  
> me privately.

You don't buy an embroidery machine, you buy a sewing machine dealer.

You don't buy an embroidery machine, you buy digitizing software.

Seriously. You're talking about a very powerful machine that can do a  
lot of things and that can cost more than I've paid for most of my cars.

It is worth buying from a dealership with good classes. You'll want  
the classes so you can learn the full range of techniques available  
to you. Otherwise you're buying a really expensive machine that you  
will barely know how to use.

It is worth doing a serious evaluation of the digitizing software.  
It's how you tell the machine to do what it does. Many of the  
"stitches" and embroidery techniques aren't in the machine. The  
machine just moves a hoop around and drops the needle; the digitizing  
software defines the fill stitches, the satin stitches, everything.

That all said, when I finally buy an embroidery machine, I'm getting  
a Husqvarna Designer SE. I've got a good local dealer I trust.  
Husqvarna has the most sophisticated software on the market right  
now. It's simply the most flexible home embroidery machine on the  
market.

andy
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
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Status: RO

I think the first question is what do you want to embroider? Then you 
need to evaluate your budget. As a professional embroiderer, I can 
make suggestions, but each machine has different capabilities and 
without knowing what you're planning to do and having a general idea 
of budget it's hard to recommend any one particular machine.

Connie

At 03:34 AM 11/9/2007, you wrote:

>Greetings all,
>      I have a question for everyone. I have been wanting a machine 
> that does embroidery for yearsss. It now seems that this will 
> become a reality. After looking at soooo many I'm confused (not 
> that it takes much to do that) and can't make up my mind. My 
> question is this  in your opinion which one do you "feel" is best 
> and why you feel this way? You can either answer on the list or to 
> me privately.   txldyjuliana@yahoo.com
>
>   Thank you for your time,
>       Dianna
>
>


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Status: RO

I have the Husqvarna Designer 1. I personally think the Husqvarna's 
are the best out there.

Sandy uses a Janome 11000. It is also excellent.

I would recommend actually trying a few of them, and take your own 
fabrics to test with, samples of the things you typically sew.  We 
use such different fabrics than the general population that even if 
the store has anything other than the stiff cardboardy test fabric, 
it won't be anything like our costume fabrics. Sometimes the actual 
features are pretty equivalent; but the feel and process differs. If 
often comes down to the personal feel you have for the machine.

Keep in mind the embroidery software you will need if you intend to 
do anything other than pre-canned designs. You want one that you 
understand and can use fairly easily.

Pierre



"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 02:18:34 -0500
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 07 November 2007, [Robin Netherton] wrote:
> I=E2=80=99m gathering information for the planning stages of a new projec=
t, and I=E2=80=99d
> love to get input from the people on this list.
>
> If you could consult a reference book that was an encyclopedia of clothing
> and textiles in the British Isles (including Ireland) in the Middle Ages
> (defined as Anglo-Saxon period through 1450), what entries would you expe=
ct
> to find in it?

Here's some that occur to me, focused as I am on the early part of the peri=
od=20
you cite:

peplos
diamond twill
lozenge twill
broken lozenge twill
use of beads in costume
use of embroidery in costume
veils
warp-weighted loom
horizontal loom=20
linen
linen production
dyes
madder
nalbinding (the "Coppergate sock" could be an entry as well)


=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt."-- Mark Twain

=2D------------------------------------------------------

=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt."-- Mark Twain
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Subject: [h-cost] Speaking of fleece...
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Status: RO


      This is an odd thing, but hopefully useful to someone.  There  
is free fleece available in Northern Virginia (DC area).  I think it  
may be angora goat.  Someone raises them and has been shearing and  
collecting the fleeces, but not doing anything with them.  This is  
info I'm getting from my (non-fiber-oriented) boss, so it's slightly  
vague.

      If anyone is in the area and wants to go check it out and see  
if the fleece is useable, send me a private note.

      Also it's ok to forward this to any people or lists that might  
have DC/Virginia area people interested in the fiber.

      Thanks!
      -Carol Kocian
      aquazoo@patriot.net
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: embroidery machine (cahuff)
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Status: RO

> I would recommend actually trying a few of them, and take your own
> fabrics to test with, samples of the things you typically sew.  We
> use such different fabrics than the general population that even if
> the store has anything other than the stiff cardboardy test fabric,
> it won't be anything like our costume fabrics. Sometimes the actual
> features are pretty equivalent; but the feel and process differs. If
> often comes down to the personal feel you have for the machine.
>


Oh, something else that you want to look at, the threading of machine
and bobbins.  I do remember my mom being very frustrated with the
serger she had first gotten because you practically had to stand on
your head to thread it.

alex
-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish
	list
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:11:30 -0600
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Status: RO



Cathy wrote, in response to my request earlier:

> Here's some that occur to me, focused as I am on the early
> part of the period you cite:
>
> peplos
> diamond twill
> lozenge twill
> broken lozenge twill
> use of beads in costume
> use of embroidery in costume
> veils
> warp-weighted loom
> horizontal loom
> linen
> linen production
> dyes
> madder
> nalbinding (the "Coppergate sock" could be an entry as well)

This is exactly the sort of list I was hoping for! I think, though, from th=
e responses that have been coming to me privately (and the absence of reply=
 on the list) I wasn't clear enough in my first post. So I'll try again, mo=
re directly.

I'm one of a team of editors working on a new, big, important project (yes,=
 there's already a publisher committed) to create an encyclopedia of dress =
and textiles in Britain, 450-1450. Right now we're developing the master li=
st of headwords that will define the entire arrangement of the encyclopedia=
. And we know we won't think of everything ourselves.

So I'm asking those of you who work in medieval clothing -- the potential u=
sers of this reference book -- what you'd like to see in it. I need, specif=
ically, terms that you might want to look up, like Cathy provided above.

This might include anything from large overviews ("headwear") to articles o=
n specific terms or garments ("wimple," "hood"); social and economic issues=
 ("sumptuary law," "guilds"); techniques ("gore," "couching"); important so=
urces and artifacts ("Bayeux tapestry," "Black Prince=92s surcote"), or any=
thing else related to dress and textiles or the study thereof -- as long as=
 it's connected to the British Isles (including Ireland), 450-1450.

And as long as we=92re making a wish list, if there=92s a particular living=
 scholar you wish would be the author of an article -- the person you=92d c=
onsider the world's expert on that topic =96- tell me that too. We already =
have some of the field's top scholars involved, and we don't want to overlo=
ok anyone.

Replies to me are OK, to the list is better (partly because it might promot=
e brainstorming, but also because some people have reported some erratic bo=
uncing of my mail!).

A bribe: To anyone who gives me a helpful response, I will send a discount =
coupon for certain much-desired books in medieval dress and textile study f=
rom my publisher.

Please do not forward this message to other lists. You may forward to speci=
fic individuals with interest in the topic if you send this entire message.

Thanks again,

Robin

_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=3DTXT_TAGHM&loc=3Dus=
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Status: RO


As per Robin's request for headwords:

fillet
barbette
chainse
wicklebandr
leg wrappings
hose
chausses
cotte
kirtle
gown
gunna
brooch
laces
braies
breeches
fur, use of fur
pelice
pelicon
chemise
precious stones
pearls


Jen/Pixel
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
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swaddling
clothing for infants and toddlers
underwear
aprons
breast support
maternity clothing
wills - clothing handed down through generations
second hand clothing

Are these too earthy?

Mary
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Status: RO

Spinning technology!
Spindle types and weights
timeline of wheel types and introduction...
detailed drawings!
and details on types of yarns-
wpi, fiber type, plies etc etc
And while we are blue skying it...
fiber types, timeline of introduction
and fiber prep tools and devices
What dyes where used
a good color chart of the dyes...

And have it be an affordable book <G>

Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
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From: "Wilson, Annette" <Annette.Wilson@environment.gov.au>
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Status: RO

Hi Robin,
here is my few cents worth:

gloves
shoes
underclothing=20
hose
cotehardie :-)
tailoring
construction sewing/seam and hem treatments
oil cloth
=66elt
cotton
hemp
canvas (tent materials etc)
painting on textiles
starch (if it was used before 1450)
prevention of insect attack (moth damage to silk and wool, possibly also
treatment of furs and bedding against fleas)
domestic textiles (napery, bed hangings, bedsheets, blankets,
curtains...)
cushions
storage (of clothing and domestic textiles)
cleaning
cloth armour (eg multi-layer linen jacks)
the rag trade and paper production

I'm sure I can think of more :-)

Annette Wilson

____________________________________

Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:11:30 -0600
=46rom: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your
	wish	list
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W3114C30FE0BCBA97E92DCAAA800@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"Windows-1252"



Cathy wrote, in response to my request earlier:

> Here's some that occur to me, focused as I am on the early part of the

> period you cite:
>
> peplos
> diamond twill
> lozenge twill
> broken lozenge twill
> use of beads in costume
> use of embroidery in costume
> veils
> warp-weighted loom
> horizontal loom
> linen
> linen production
> dyes
> madder
> nalbinding (the "Coppergate sock" could be an entry as well)

This is exactly the sort of list I was hoping for! I think, though, from
the responses that have been coming to me privately (and the absence of
reply on the list) I wasn't clear enough in my first post. So I'll try
again, more directly.

I'm one of a team of editors working on a new, big, important project
(yes, there's already a publisher committed) to create an encyclopedia
of dress and textiles in Britain, 450-1450. Right now we're developing
the master list of headwords that will define the entire arrangement of
the encyclopedia. And we know we won't think of everything ourselves.

So I'm asking those of you who work in medieval clothing -- the
potential users of this reference book -- what you'd like to see in it.
I need, specifically, terms that you might want to look up, like Cathy
provided above.

This might include anything from large overviews ("headwear") to
articles on specific terms or garments ("wimple," "hood"); social and
economic issues ("sumptuary law," "guilds"); techniques ("gore,"
"couching"); important sources and artifacts ("Bayeux tapestry," "Black
Prince's surcote"), or anything else related to dress and textiles or
the study thereof -- as long as it's connected to the British Isles
(including Ireland), 450-1450.

And as long as we're making a wish list, if there's a particular living
scholar you wish would be the author of an article -- the person you'd
consider the world's expert on that topic -- tell me that too. We
already have some of the field's top scholars involved, and we don't
want to overlook anyone.

Replies to me are OK, to the list is better (partly because it might
promote brainstorming, but also because some people have reported some
erratic bouncing of my mail!).

A bribe: To anyone who gives me a helpful response, I will send a
discount coupon for certain much-desired books in medieval dress and
textile study from my publisher.

Please do not forward this message to other lists. You may forward to
specific individuals with interest in the topic if you send this entire
message.

Thanks again,

Robin


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Uniform dress of a Suisse pictures, anyone?
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Status: RO

Would anyone be interested in seeing the "uniform dress" of a "Suisse" of the Roman Catholic Church? It dates from the 1870's.  After nearly 40 years in storage of one kind or another, almost forotten, - my wife and her sister have just prepared it for permananent exhibition at the newly-renovated and re-dedicated "Gothic Revival" St. Thomas' Church, St. Helier, "old" Jersey. I have just restored the Spontoon; and am starting to make a replica Mace - which were part of his equipment.
  If so, I have 2  good pictures [one monchrome from the 1960's and one colour from 2007] that I can post to the List's photo files. [So long as someone tells me what sizes of images those photo files will accept!]
   
  Julian Wilson
Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com> wrote:
  swaddling
clothing for infants and toddlers
underwear
aprons
breast support
maternity clothing
wills - clothing handed down through generations
second hand clothing

Are these too earthy?

Mary
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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:49:51 +0000 (GMT)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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A well-researched and well-illustrated book  [or 2, or 3] about English middle-class and upper-class  Dress in England during the Reign of Henry 7th.
  Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal with "Tudor Dress or Costume" slides over the Reign of Henry 7th (1485-1509) as though he never existed;  - and begins in 1509 with the Accession of Henry 8th!.
   
  Julian Wilson,
  in "old" Jersey
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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 17:30:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Flax
Linen
Line (re: linen)
Tow (ditto linen)
Hemp
Nettle

Line as clothing insides, too. ;)
Interlining
Flatlining (provided it was done in the focus period)

Wool
Woolen
Worsted

Silk
Reel/ed
Spun

Cotton
Cottoned (as a treatment of wool)

Dyestuffs
Cochineal/kermes (the one from the Mediterranean,
obviously, not from Mexico)
Woad
Indigo
Weld
Madder


Godet
Wheel piece

Stitches
Running stitch
Back stitch, and its shorter variations like
'half-back' and prick stitch

making fabric:
Weaving
Plain, linen, tabby and other names for plain weave
Twill
Satin
Tablet-weaving--twined and 3/1 twill structures are a
good start
Brocade/ing
Velvet/een

Felting
Nalbinding 
Fingerloop braiding/plaiting
Narrow work

Fulling
Shearing (cloth & sheep)
Brushing

so far

Ann in CT


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Status: RO


> A well-researched and well-illustrated book [or 2, or 3] about
> English middle-class and upper-class Dress in England during the
> Reign of Henry 7th.
>=20
> Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal
> with "Tudor Dress or Costume" slides over the Reign of Henry
> 7th (1485-1509) as though he never existed; - and begins in
> 1509 with the Accession of Henry 8th!.

I agree with you on that one. And there are very few scholars doing work in=
 that period right now, I've noticed.

However, I think you (and a few other people) may have read only my subject=
 line and not my message, in which I indicated I'm collecting headwords for=
 entries (not book topics) for an encyclopedia covering Britain from 450-14=
50. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

Many many thanks to those of you who are sending me ideas for headwords, bo=
th on- and off-list. I've collected quite a few that we hadn't yet consider=
ed, and I expect we will be using many of them. Keep 'em coming!

--Robin

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Status: RO


Since I'm supposed to be writing a paper on globalization, naturally I 
work on coming up with more headwords:

gardes-corps
chapes
ceinture
girdles
tapes
bezants
pins
saya
garters
shoes
slippers
boots
buskins
sandals
chopines
coif
hood
mantle
vair
ermine
miniver
scarlet
fustian
cendal
samite
wadmal
tippets
chaplets
buckram
Roman jackets
parti-colour
purfell
spangles
rosaries
paternosters


Jen/Pixel
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list
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Status: RO

Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread late and didn't read the beginnings of it.
  However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume.
  My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an "English Fashion". By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I - is that - due to the social "uncertainty" arising from the power struggles of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have allowed/encouraged the development of an "English Fasjion". By everything I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th,  - English "fashions" were heavily influenced by those of the "most brilliant" Court" in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders.
  I won't try and drag you further into a  discussion on this when you are concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my wish List.
   
  Regards,
  Julian Wilson, [in 2007]
  "Matthew Baker"  [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and then King of England, - in the SCA]
Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:
  
> A well-researched and well-illustrated book [or 2, or 3] about
> English middle-class and upper-class Dress in England during the
> Reign of Henry 7th.
> 
> Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal
> with "Tudor Dress or Costume" slides over the Reign of Henry
> 7th (1485-1509) as though he never existed; - and begins in
> 1509 with the Accession of Henry 8th!.

I agree with you on that one. And there are very few scholars doing work in that period right now, I've noticed.

However, I think you (and a few other people) may have read only my subject line and not my message, in which I indicated I'm collecting headwords for entries (not book topics) for an encyclopedia covering Britain from 450-1450. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

Many many thanks to those of you who are sending me ideas for headwords, both on- and off-list. I've collected quite a few that we hadn't yet considered, and I expect we will be using many of them. Keep 'em coming!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
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Status: RO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
<< ... Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal with 
"Tudor Dress or Costume" slides over the Reign of Henry 7th (1485-1509) as 
though he never existed;  - and begins in 1509 with the Accession of Henry 
8th! >>

I second that, except I'd like to expand it to 1485-1530.  Judging by most 
resources, the 16th century begins sometime in the mid 1530s or early 1540s.

Although mind you, I'm far more interested in the Franco-Flemish stuff. 
With a nice sprinkling of Dutch.  My wish-list submission--completely 
unsuited to the request made to the list--is for more English-language 
costume books devoted to non-English areas.

-E House


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Nov 14 04:16:59 2007
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] A crochet question
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Status: RO

Not exactly a historical matter, but it's one of those 'if you guys =
don't know
I don't know who does' questions.

I just acquired some lovely Italian yarn for a very very cheap price=20
probably because it is bright orange. Bright orange is not my colour,
especially since I have in mind making something I might wear to work
with it. I have no issues with dying it (it's cotton, so I'm not =
expecting it
to felt, just maybe shrink a bit).=20

So the question is, is it better to dye the yarn now (and how on earth =
do you=20
go about drying 800m of dyed yarn if so) or crochet it and dye the =
garment?

Oh, and look I just thought of a historical question. I know crochet =
dates from
the 18th century (I have this idea in my head that it's less than a =
coincidence that
it shows up around the time tambour embroidery (also done with a hook) =
was
popular). And it was very popular for lace type work in Edwardian times. =
But when
did it start to be used for heavy or close garments in the same way as =
knitting (eg
for bedjackets, shawls etc)?=20

I have found a 50's era pattern for a New Look style dress crocheted out =
of organza
ribbon (so tempted to give that a go), so I know it was at least before =
then.

Claire
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Status: RO

If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like
Procion, I don't think it makes a difference.
Anything involving hot water, though, will
shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should
be dyed first, then crocheted.

Yay, crochet!! :)

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Status: RO

At 08:06 AM 11/7/2007, you wrote:

>I'm gathering information for the planning stages of a new project, 
>and I'd love to get input from the people on this list.


Has anyone mentioned color definitions?
gore
gusset
hemming/edging techniques
which dags are documented
stitches used for seams
shoulder seams... as the sleeve turns from seam on the back to seam 
under the arm.
sleeve shapes/patterns
collars...stand up, spread out, fold down?
purpointe...how wide spread, which countries
gloves
armor that reflects clothes and vice versa
history of the kilt
types of kilt
how to fold a great kilt

I'm sure more will come up
Genie 

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Status: RO

Don't forget the little stuff:

Needle
pin
thimble

Are you sure this is going to all fit into one book :)?

Catherine
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Status: RO

Hey Julian,

I'm right there with you!  My SCA persona, Meleri ferch Iasper ap Dafydd, is
a follower of the beloved and darn-near sainted Earl of Pembroke, the Earl
of Richmond's uncle and protector... :)  I would love to see a good study of
this period too!  I'm sure the Burgundian influences remained because of the
Yorkist duchess, but we must not discount the influence of Brittany (itself
alas probably heavily influenced by Burgundy), owing to the Exilic Years of
Henry and Earl Jasper.  From the few pics we have of Henry and his queen, we
do know the "standard silhouettes" were in operation: the skirted doublet
and over-robe (chamarre, I think?), and that French-style round cap with the
laced sides for the guys, and the kirtle along Burgundian lines but with a
more lowered waist and less bulky skirt for the ladies, with the long, slim
sleeves and the long-sided English gable hood... but there had to be more to
it all than that!  I know the excesses of Henry 8's reign and following,
where the kid blew the budget Dad had left him, have taken most of the
attention--and I'm good with that because I love the classic 1520s and 30s
looks.  But somewhere between the garb of the waning Yorkist rulers and the
flash of Henry 8 there has to have been SOMEthing!!  :)

Any Lancastrians who wanna chat, drop me a note any time...  :) My thesis is
on Jasper Tudor so I'm a bit... focused.  :)

Cheers,
Meli

----------Julian scripsit:

Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread
late and didn't read the beginnings of it.
 However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the
Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which
you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume.
 My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for
English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an "English
Fashion". By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from
the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I -
is that - due to the social "uncertainty" arising from the power struggles
of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have
allowed/encouraged the development of an "English Fasjion". By everything
I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th,  - English
"fashions" were heavily influenced by those of the "most brilliant" Court"
in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess
Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders.
 I won't try and drag you further into a  discussion on this when you are
concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my
wish List.

 Regards,
 Julian Wilson, [in 2007]
 "Matthew Baker"  [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and
then King of England, - in the SCA]
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
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Status: RO

At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote:
>I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone
>here as well:
>
>Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
>
>I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The publication
>party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the
>books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is available in the US
>for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
>version in that it is larger than 8 x 10") from
>http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr
>y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1    (David Brown Book company the US
>distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)
>
>Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley
>publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society

This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a 
complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year!

Suzi

>www.costumesociety.org.uk .  You can subscribe, or buy individual articles.
>I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (the present
>one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset.  I'm not a penny
>pinching young student, but an employed and old student working on my MA as
>an Independent Scholar with my local university.  This is why I paid the
>Student rate when I subscribed.  The individual article is for sale on-line
>for $25.
>
>The writers frequently have access to items that I didn't even know about.
>The color chart is something I've been needing for years (and is pronounced
>by one of my professor friends as a very good rendition.)
>
>If you can't afford it, you can't.  That means you know what to ask your
>Liberian for.  Old issues are available as are individual articles.
>
>As you can see from the Table of Contents below, the Journal ranges over a
>wide range of periods and places.
>
>Wanda
>
>Included in No. 41 are:
>
>  The pair of straight bodies' and a pair of drawers' dating from 1603 which
>Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey by Janet Arnold
>
>'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance (Henry VIII timeframe) by
>Cliodna Devit
>
>'Rainbow for a Reign:  The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe (Queen Elizabeth,
>with a color chart to give you an idea of what the name actually means -
>such as 'maiden's blush' etc.
>
>"The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailors' Guild
>or Company of Merchants": By Nigel Sleigh-Johnson
>
>"A Fashionable Confinement:  Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman" by
>Harriet Waterhouse (not Elizabethan)
>
>'Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?'  Thompson's
>Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline by Lucy-Clare Windle
>
>"The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple:  Confirmation and
>First Confirmation Dress, 1850-2000 by Anthea Jarvis
>
>The Wearing of the Red:  The Redcoat and the British Brand" by Nigel Arch
>
>"A clinging Liberty tea-gown instead of a magenta satin':  The Colour Red in
>Artistic Dress by Liberty & Co.' by Anna Buruma
>
>"Modern Fashions for Modern Women:  The Evolution of New York Sportswear in
>the 1930s" by Rebecca Arnold
>
>"Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place" by Rosemary Harden
>(my personal opinion is that his place is probably face down with a steak
>through his heart - Wanda)
>
>New Books and Articles by James Snowden and Naomi E.A. Tarrant
>
>
>Selective List
>Book Reviews
>Exhibitions
>Study Day
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Rikke D. Giles
> > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:23 PM
> > To: TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
> >
> >
> > On 11/03/2007 12:47:05 PM, Wanda Pease wrote:
> > > Got mine two weeks ago.  The American Distributor is David Brown
> > > Books and the cost for the Paper back (comes in a Sleeve) is $96.  T
> >
> > Bleh, I ordered mine last July and still haven't gotten it!  Lucky
> > you :)  I think I will have to contact David Brown.
> >
> > Aelianora
> >
> >
> > This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com -
> > more commonly known as The Renaissance Tailor; Recreating 16th
> > and 17th Century Clothing.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheRenaissanceTailor/
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
> >
>
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Status: RO



Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens?
regards
Joy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Henry VII Fashion (was: Dress topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list)
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Status: RO

> A well-researched and well-illustrated book  [or 2, or 3] about English 
middle-class and upper-class 
> Dress in England during the  Reign of Henry 7th.
> Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal with 
"Tudor Dress or Costume" slides 
> over the Reign of Henry 7th (1485-1509) as though he never existed;  - 
and begins in 1509 with the
> Accession of Henry 8th!.
 
This book is neither entirely English, nor entirely about fashion 
(although there is a chapter on it); I've found _Women of Distinction: 
Margaret of York And Margaret of Austria_ edited by Yvonne Bleyerveld to 
be a wonderful resource for the time period you mention, as well as 
fascinating reading.
        -sunny

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Status: RO


> Don't forget the little stuff:> > Needle> pin> thimble> > Are you sure th=
is is going to all fit into one book :)?
With multiple thousands of entries ... OK, it will be a big book. I am one =
of a team of editors conscripted to help sort it all out.
=20
Many terms (e.g. garment names) will have very short "definition"-type entr=
ies. The items above, though, might end up covered in a larger article on "=
sewing tools." Either way, we have to create a home for the concept, which =
is why these lists you folks are giving me are so useful. We are building o=
ur outline, and I'm taking the terms people give me and seeing whether they=
 represent categories we've covered (or not). There have been quite a few n=
ew ideas coming in!
=20
That said, let me note I'm having to cut out all the terms and sources that=
 are not English or connected to Britain. So, yes to the Luttrell Psalter, =
no to the Book of Chess. And while of course we'll have articles touching o=
n foreign influence, we won't be needing to describe the "saya," for instan=
ce.
=20
I'll be assembling my contribution to the master list in about a week or so=
, so keep 'em coming -- concepts as well as terms. Don't forget your ideal =
authors if you there's a scholar you associate with some field.=20
=20
You folks are wonderful!
=20
--Robin
=20
=20
=20
=20
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!=A0 Play Star Shuffle:=A0 the word scramble =
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=3Dstarshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc=
t=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
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Status: RO

Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need to use pretty warm 
water for best results.

The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers, sometimes quite a 
lot.  Also, the earlier in the process you dye the fibers, the more 
thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is better than dyed in 
the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed in the woven 
material, and dyed in the material is better than dyed in the made-up 
garment. Hence the old saying, "Dyed in the wool."

Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem to take it up, and 
discover that it is pale, or even still white, on the inside of the old 
hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the dye visibly penetrates 
better into the upper surface, than further down into the intertwinings 
of the yarn.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Maureen Campbell wrote:

> If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like
> Procion, I don't think it makes a difference.
> Anything involving hot water, though, will
> shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should
> be dyed first, then crocheted.
> 
> Yay, crochet!! :)
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 11/14/2007 12:54:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

"Dyed in  the wool."



******************
 
 
I thought this referred to the 18th century practice of mixing wool with  
other fibers, like linen or cotton, for coats and such. The wool offered warmth  
but the other fibers made the cloth not so expensive. Anyway, when dyed,, say  
blue, the wool would soak up the dye and the linen  not so much so you  ended 
up with something that kinda looks like what we today call "kettle cloth".  
The fabric was "dyed in the wool". 
 
But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of  
a story.



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Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:18:24 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment
with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh
for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of
stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. 

Basically, it is no more than a couple pieces of 2x4
with dowels plugged in. Before the dye bath, I would
wind the yarn across the bars in a single layer with
fairly firm tension. Leave on the bars until you are
done immersing in the dye bath and rinse water. Dry on
the bars. By keeping it under a fair amount of tension
it didn't have as much opportunity to contract.

The nice part is that you can construct them to fit
down in whatever size tub you have for your dye bath.
We were lucky to have come across some fairly deep
metal pans being discarded from the VA Hospital
kitchen. Worked like a charm.

Good luck.

--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need
> to use pretty warm 
> water for best results.
> 
> The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers,
> sometimes quite a 
> lot.  Also, the earlier in the process you dye the
> fibers, the more 
> thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is
> better than dyed in 
> the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed
> in the woven 
> material, and dyed in the material is better than
> dyed in the made-up 
> garment. Hence the old saying, "Dyed in the wool."
> 
> Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem
> to take it up, and 
> discover that it is pale, or even still white, on
> the inside of the old 
> hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the
> dye visibly penetrates 
> better into the upper surface, than further down
> into the intertwinings 
> of the yarn.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> Maureen Campbell wrote:
> 
> > If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like
> > Procion, I don't think it makes a difference.
> > Anything involving hot water, though, will
> > shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should
> > be dyed first, then crocheted.
> > 
> > Yay, crochet!! :)
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Status: RO


Sorry, I didn't read your message all that carefully. Yes: wool and silk 
both absorb dye better than cotton or linen, and cotton absorbs it 
better than linen.  But if you dye a material woven from mixed fibers, 
you are not dyeing "in the wool," but in the material.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


> I thought this referred to the 18th century practice of mixing wool with  
> other fibers, like linen or cotton, for coats and such. The wool offered warmth  
> but the other fibers made the cloth not so expensive. Anyway, when dyed,, say  
> blue, the wool would soak up the dye and the linen  not so much so you  ended 
> up with something that kinda looks like what we today call "kettle cloth".  
> The fabric was "dyed in the wool". 
>  
> But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of  
> a story.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 11:51:43 -0700
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Status: RO

  Thanks!  Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on =
to
some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from
Raphael's "La Muta".  And then I'll need the gown to go with it...
    Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to =
"cat
parvo" before we found them.  Last one is a holy terror now. <G>

Happy stitching!
Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Joy Shillaker
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back



Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens?
regards
Joy
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

I must second that your blackwork is magnificent!
What a lot of work, and so beautifull!!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back


  Thanks!  Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on to
some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from
Raphael's "La Muta".  And then I'll need the gown to go with it...
    Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to "cat
parvo" before we found them.  Last one is a holy terror now. <G>

Happy stitching!
Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joy Shillaker
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back



Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens?
regards
Joy
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Status: RO

  Thanks!  Next on my list of "things to learn" is to get better at =
various
needle-
laces, to trim my smocks and shirts up in high style...
  And someday to do beautiful silk work like yours!

Liadain


THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 12:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: welcome back

I must second that your blackwork is magnificent!
What a lot of work, and so beautifull!!

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back


  Thanks!  Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on =
to
some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from
Raphael's "La Muta".  And then I'll need the gown to go with it...
    Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to =
"cat
parvo" before we found them.  Last one is a holy terror now. <G>

Happy stitching!
Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Joy Shillaker
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back



Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens?
regards
Joy
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include
alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For
example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in
German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.?

Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862=3D0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


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Status: RO


> My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include> alongs=
ide the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For> example, it=
's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in> German, and what a=
bout Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.?
It would be beyond the scope of the encyclopedia to try to address this com=
prehensively in all cases, but given that the English used terms from other=
 languages (particularly French) to describe various fashions, there's goin=
g to be some non-English terminology creeping in. It will be up to the auth=
ors of the individual articles to consider whether and how to address this =
in each case ... but it's a point I'll make sure is raised early on. Thanks=
 for mentioning it.
=20
--Robin
_________________________________________________________________
Boo!=A0Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare=
!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=3Dwl_hotma=
ilnews=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
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Status: RO

I've never seen it used in any sense but fastness.  For example, if you 
call someone, "A dyed-in-the-wool Republican," you mean their political 
beliefs are thoroughly those of the Republican party, not mixed or 
uncertain.

Of course, if you dye some woolen yarn one color, and some linen thread 
another color, if you weave a fabric from both you might get something 
the modern fashion industry would call "heathered." (Or instead striped, 
or checked, depending on how you set up the loom and wove the fabric.) 
Or for that matter, if both yarns are wool. What matters is having the 
different colors. In this case the wool could be dyed either before or 
after spinning, but you'd need to do it before weaving.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>  
> But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of  
> a story.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
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Status: RO


Back in the days when I used to do a lot of weaving and crocheting, I 
never became interested in spinning, for some reason. I bought pre-dyed 
yarn. However, my philosophy is that if something is likely to shrink, 
I'd rather get it over with before I go to a lot of trouble making a 
garment by any method.

One great thing the device you describe has going for it, is keeping the 
yarn from becoming a totally tangled mess while being agitated to 
distribute the dye.  A problem I've always had while dyeing things like 
long lengths of lace trim.

The other thing about crochet, knitting, and lace is that they can be 
fragile. Of course, this depends on how fine your yarn or thread is, how 
well you tuck the ends in, and how careful you are when agitating the 
piece. But I'm going to agitate something during dyeing, if I have the 
choice I prefer it to be in a less fragile state, as I'd rather not 
spend a lot of effort making something, then have it come apart during 
dyeing.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


> Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment
> with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh
> for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of
> stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. 


<snip>
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need
>>to use pretty warm 
>>water for best results.
>>
>>The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers,
>>sometimes quite a 
>>lot.  Also, the earlier in the process you dye the
>>fibers, the more 
>>thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is
>>better than dyed in 
>>the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed
>>in the woven 
>>material, and dyed in the material is better than
>>dyed in the made-up 
>>garment. Hence the old saying, "Dyed in the wool."
>>
>>Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem
>>to take it up, and 
>>discover that it is pale, or even still white, on
>>the inside of the old 
>>hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the
>>dye visibly penetrates 
>>better into the upper surface, than further down
>>into the intertwinings 
>>of the yarn.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>Maureen Campbell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like
>>>Procion, I don't think it makes a difference.
>>>Anything involving hot water, though, will
>>>shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should
>>>be dyed first, then crocheted.
>>>
>>>Yay, crochet!! :)
>>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> 
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> 
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

BTW, as someone debating whether to get rid of the 8-harness jack loom 
in the garage, I have a conundrum.

I loved the process of weaving. But I just was not all that thrilled by 
hand-woven material.  It was OK, and I made a lot of home-furnishings 
type things. But stylistically, I'm not no longer that interested in the 
rough-looking bedspreads, etc. that I used to make, and as for woven 
wall hangings, these days I'm totally uninterested.

The only kind of wall hanging I'd ever consider making is a tapestry, 
which I never used to do, except when I learned the techniques in 
textile arts class. I do still like tapestries.

What I was really most interested in making then was garments. Garment 
fabric is of course comparatively fine and very time-consuming to weave. 
I wanted to get on to making the garments, so it just seemed more 
efficient to buy fabric.

The loom also has sentimental value, but given the its size, I suppose 
I'll eventually sell it. I just hate to ever get rid of anything.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

> Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment
> with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh
> for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of
> stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. 
> 
> Basically, it is no more than a couple pieces of 2x4
> with dowels plugged in. Before the dye bath, I would
> wind the yarn across the bars in a single layer with
> fairly firm tension. Leave on the bars until you are
> done immersing in the dye bath and rinse water. Dry on
> the bars. By keeping it under a fair amount of tension
> it didn't have as much opportunity to contract.
> 
> The nice part is that you can construct them to fit
> down in whatever size tub you have for your dye bath.
> We were lucky to have come across some fairly deep
> metal pans being discarded from the VA Hospital
> kitchen. Worked like a charm.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need
>>to use pretty warm 
>>water for best results.
>>
>>The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers,
>>sometimes quite a 
>>lot.  Also, the earlier in the process you dye the
>>fibers, the more 
>>thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is
>>better than dyed in 
>>the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed
>>in the woven 
>>material, and dyed in the material is better than
>>dyed in the made-up 
>>garment. Hence the old saying, "Dyed in the wool."
>>
>>Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem
>>to take it up, and 
>>discover that it is pale, or even still white, on
>>the inside of the old 
>>hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the
>>dye visibly penetrates 
>>better into the upper surface, than further down
>>into the intertwinings 
>>of the yarn.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>Maureen Campbell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like
>>>Procion, I don't think it makes a difference.
>>>Anything involving hot water, though, will
>>>shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should
>>>be dyed first, then crocheted.
>>>
>>>Yay, crochet!! :)
>>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> 
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> 
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Status: RO

Oops, just read the "England only" bit. But still, the other languages
would be very useful-- at least as a handle on research using the
encyclopedia as a launch pad.

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862=3D0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 4:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your
wishlist


My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include
alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For
example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in
German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.?

Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862=3D0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] "Dress at the Court of King
	Henry Viii"
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Status: RO

Suzi,

I'm missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume 
(Journal of the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of 
these for sale, please let me know!

I'm also looking Textile History Vol 18 and Dress #26, 1999. (Journal 
of the Costume Society
of America)

Best price that I could find for "Dress at the Court of King Henry 
Viii" in the USA was Barnes&Noble. They say that it will ship Nov 
20... I've had it on order for awhile.

Beth

At 08:40 PM 11/14/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:14 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>
>At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote:
> >I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone
> >here as well:
> >
> >Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
> >
> >I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The publication
> >party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the
> >books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is available in the US
> >for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
> >version in that it is larger than 8 x 10") from
> >http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr
> >y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1    (David Brown Book company the US
> >distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)
> >
> >Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley
> >publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society
>
>This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a
>complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year!
>
>Suzi

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Dress and textile topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 19:54:03 -0800
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Status: RO

I don't think those are too earthy at all!  Except for the swaddling and
clothing for infants are things I'd really be interested in knowing.  Given
the right book I'd probably be willing to spring for the baby stuff too.

Wanda
>
>
> swaddling
> clothing for infants and toddlers
> underwear
> aprons
> breast support
> maternity clothing
> wills - clothing handed down through generations
> second hand clothing
>
> Are these too earthy?
>
> Mary
> ________

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Subject: [h-cost] Potential Closure of Conservation Centre - England 
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"OK, not many of you have heard of the Textile Conservation Centre in 
Winchester; but if you're museum staff, or costume historians, or 
otherwise have any serious interest in the preservation of some of 
the most fragile of our historic artefacts, and if you support the 
training of world-class conservators to do more of the same 
elsewhere, then please go to:
<http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCCclosure>http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCclosure
and sign up!
Otherwise it will be closed by the 'if it doesn't make a profit it 
can't be important' mentality that has screwed up so many worthwhile 
things of late. "

 From another list I'm on - please sign if you agree with the 
petition - too many places like this in England are being 
closed/destroyed. I am sure international pressure will help.

Suzi
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Status: RO

Another fan of late 15th century here too. I did a fairish bit of
digging around into women's clothes of this period (sorry Julian
not so interested in men's clothes) about 5 years ago. Actually
it must be more than that, because I had no kids then and my
eldest is six now. Anyway.
There is a brief and distinctly English style between the
Burgundian phase and what I like to call 'proto-Tudor'. This
style begins in the 1570s and disappears very abruptly in
1485 when the proto-Tudor style comes in just as abruptly. It
consists of a close-fitting, low waisted kirtle with a low round
neck with a 'bertha' style round collar. The sleeves are tight
and long, often going over the hand, and it is worn with a
very distinctive style of long girdle. The trucated hennin (or
flowerpot hat) was very commonly worn with this style.

The proto-Tudor style is pretty much as you've described it.
The train is often very long and pinned up to the back of the waist.
Also the wide sleeves that are common with this style in France
and the Low Countries are not unusual in England. The style
seems to filter down very quickly to the middle and lower
classes as many illuminations from this period show women
with square necked kirtle and gowns. Curiously, some of them
have an odd diagonal opening at the front that I've never quite
figured out.

There is not a lot of info out there for this period. Older books,
if you can work around their flaws, were the best sources I found.
eg Cunnington, or Kelly. Also books on funeral brasses and tapestries,
which were at their peak during this period. Another source I found
quite useful is an illustrated edition of the Canterbury Tales I have (it
was very common here a few years ago) that draws most of it's illuminations
from late 15th century illuminations and woodcuts.

Claire

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:05:10 -0500
From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Henry 7 Fashion Trends
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID:
<b49a69920711140605p98d0fedrdc35257a91051fed@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Hey Julian,

I'm right there with you!  My SCA persona, Meleri ferch Iasper ap Dafydd, is
a follower of the beloved and darn-near sainted Earl of Pembroke, the Earl
of Richmond's uncle and protector... :)  I would love to see a good study of
this period too!  I'm sure the Burgundian influences remained because of the
Yorkist duchess, but we must not discount the influence of Brittany (itself
alas probably heavily influenced by Burgundy), owing to the Exilic Years of
Henry and Earl Jasper.  From the few pics we have of Henry and his queen, we
do know the "standard silhouettes" were in operation: the skirted doublet
and over-robe (chamarre, I think?), and that French-style round cap with the
laced sides for the guys, and the kirtle along Burgundian lines but with a
more lowered waist and less bulky skirt for the ladies, with the long, slim
sleeves and the long-sided English gable hood... but there had to be more to
it all than that!  I know the excesses of Henry 8's reign and following,
where the kid blew the budget Dad had left him, have taken most of the
attention--and I'm good with that because I love the classic 1520s and 30s
looks.  But somewhere between the garb of the waning Yorkist rulers and the
flash of Henry 8 there has to have been SOMEthing!!  :)

Any Lancastrians who wanna chat, drop me a note any time...  :) My thesis is
on Jasper Tudor so I'm a bit... focused.  :)

Cheers,
Meli

----------Julian scripsit:

Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread
late and didn't read the beginnings of it.
 However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the
Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which
you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume.
 My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for
English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an "English
Fashion". By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from
the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I -
is that - due to the social "uncertainty" arising from the power struggles
of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have
allowed/encouraged the development of an "English Fasjion". By everything
I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th,  - English
"fashions" were heavily influenced by those of the "most brilliant" Court"
in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess
Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders.
 I won't try and drag you further into a  discussion on this when you are
concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my
wish List.

 Regards,
 Julian Wilson, [in 2007]
 "Matthew Baker"  [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and
then King of England, - in the SCA]


------------------------------


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Potential Closure of Conservation Centre - England 
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 18:46:56 +0000
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Status: RO

> http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCclosure 
> and sign up! >>

Unfortuately, only British citizens or residents can sign the petition.

Colleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Potential Closure of Conservation Centre -
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Status: RO

At 18:46 15/11/2007, you wrote:
> > http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCclosure
> > and sign up! >>
>
>Unfortuately, only British citizens or residents can sign the petition.
>
>Colleen


You can still write to the Department of Culture, Media and Sport, as 
I wrote in my corrected message sent immediately after my first.


http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/ContactUs/


Suzi 

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Status: RO


Apparently you have to be British (hah!) to sign the petition. 
However, if you go to the website below, you should be able to 
contact the "Department of Culture, Media and Sport", which should be 
the relevant Government Department.
http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/ContactUs/

Sorry for the confusion.

"OK, not many of you have heard of the Textile Conservation Centre in 
Winchester; but if you're museum staff, or costume historians, or 
otherwise have any serious interest in the preservation of some of 
the most fragile of our historic artefacts, and if you support the 
training of world-class conservators to do more of the same 
elsewhere, then please go to:
<http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCCclosure>http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCclosure
and sign up!
Otherwise it will be closed by the 'if it doesn't make a profit it 
can't be important' mentality that has screwed up so many worthwhile 
things of late. "

 From another list I'm on - please sign if you agree with the 
petition - too many places like this in England are being 
closed/destroyed. I am sure international pressure will help.

Suzi
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
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My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.   
Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she  
might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?

Margo
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I don't remember the numbers, but Paul Meekins had a load of these at the  
re-enactor's market last weekend - more than he usually has.
 
_www.paulmeekins.co.uk_ (http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk) 

 
 
 
In a message dated 15/11/2007 19:07:39 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I'm  missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume 
(Journal of  the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of 
these for sale,  please let me know!

 



   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Shopping in China
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At 12:11 AM 11/16/2007, you wrote:
>My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.
>Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she
>might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?
>
>Margo

I did my shopping in Hong Kong, so I can't say anything about prices, 
but as for fabric, you should be able to find just about anything you 
want.  I got silk, rayon, and cotton.  Linen may be tougher, but I 
know that there is a large suit making business there, so any sort of 
suiting (man made, linen, wool) should be available.  Sounds like fun.

Genie

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane Asher..( remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?) book for fancy dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece but in all the oves and after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a book fobic neanderthal...many of my books were destroyed, but this string reminds me of that book. what I remember
1.  JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls Queen Elizabth  I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique draperies, a humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of individually wrapped hard candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot glue settings with gilded hot glue "couching" drawing hatching patterns between each one...really pretty COOL!!!
a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume of horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a card across his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with milar hair decorations...( she was a firecraker)
I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all costuming..even the most  serious period stuff..
THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for the BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her popularity among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited that with no budget to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and her "little shop"  resorted to thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred insied out and spray painted  with cake doilies for templated to make large brocade like patterns and stiffent the fabrics... chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going to be asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not the paints and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or would eat each other up in storage..chuckkle
Bambi

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote: Me too - we do mostly Fantasy / Science Fiction costumes, and we have 
several racks of them in the attic, etc.  However, probably 98% of 
them require knowledge of the source, or at least an appreciation of 
SF, to "get" what they are.  So what do I wear to work for 
Halloween?  A 20-year old pirate coat, with suitable shirt and 
breeches.  People at least "get" pirates.....

There were only about 20 who dressed up, most were "closet 
scrounging" costumes.  My fave though was a co-worker, who's a bit of 
a Goth anyway, who did a pretty good version of Abby from N.C.I.S. 
(the TV show).

Sandy

At 08:09 PM 10/31/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:15:10 -0400
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" 
>Subject: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
>
>I know I'm not the only one...
>
>I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
>clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
>one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
>something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
>have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
>also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
>
>So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
>way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
>too!

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride!!!!
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
       
---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.
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Status: RO

Thanks Debbie.

I've sent him an email. All the ones he has listed on his site, I have.

Beth

At 07:02 PM 11/16/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 07:59:41 EST
>From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>
>I don't remember the numbers, but Paul Meekins had a load of these at the
>re-enactor's market last weekend - more than he usually has.
>
>_www.paulmeekins.co.uk_ (http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk)
>
>In a message dated 15/11/2007 19:07:39 GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>I'm  missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume
>(Journal of  the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of
>these for sale,  please let me know!

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Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 17:28:02 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

Hi Bambi,

I own that book and it's wonderful! i think it's out of print but am not
certain. I'm still at work, so I can't give you the correct name but will
try to remember to do so when I go home. I found it in a second-hand
bookstore a few years ago for $4US. It's not the kind of costuming I do and
was going to put it back but realized who had modeled some of the costumes
and had to have the book for the fun of it.

Other than the Queen Elizabeth costume, my two favorites were the elf ona a
mushroom (a child who's torso was used, stuffed legs set onto a mushroom
shape and the child's legs and feet were the stem of the mushroom) and the
jelly fish, which depended on a whole lot of bubble wrap cut in long,
flowing streams. Really fun stuff, and possible for almost anyone to make.

And yes, she and her costuming partner used all sorts of unexpected things
to make these costumes. These are more for a fancy dress party than for
trick or treating.

LynnD


On 11/16/07, Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane Asher..(
> remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?) book for fancy
> dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece but in all the oves and
> after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a book fobic neanderthal...many of
> my books were destroyed, but this string reminds me of that book. what I
> remember
> 1.  JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls Queen
> Elizabth  I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique draperies, a
> humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of individually wrapped hard
> candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot glue settings with gilded hot
> glue "couching" drawing hatching patterns between each one...really pretty
> COOL!!!
> a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume of
> horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a card across
> his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
> Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with milar hair
> decorations...( she was a firecraker)
> I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
> and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all
> costuming..even the most  serious period stuff..
> THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for the
> BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her popularity
> among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited that with no budget
> to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and her "little shop"  resorted to
> thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred insied out and spray painted  with
> cake doilies for templated to make large brocade like patterns and stiffent
> the fabrics... chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going
> to be asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much
> later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not the paints
> and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or would eat each other up
> in storage..chuckkle
> Bambi
>
> Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote: Me too - we do
> mostly Fantasy / Science Fiction costumes, and we have
> several racks of them in the attic, etc.  However, probably 98% of
> them require knowledge of the source, or at least an appreciation of
> SF, to "get" what they are.  So what do I wear to work for
> Halloween?  A 20-year old pirate coat, with suitable shirt and
> breeches.  People at least "get" pirates.....
>
> There were only about 20 who dressed up, most were "closet
> scrounging" costumes.  My fave though was a co-worker, who's a bit of
> a Goth anyway, who did a pretty good version of Abby from N.C.I.S.
> (the TV show).
>
> Sandy
>
> At 08:09 PM 10/31/2007, you wrote:
>
> >Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:15:10 -0400
> >From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin"
> >Subject: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
> >
> >I know I'm not the only one...
> >
> >I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
> >clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
> >one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
> >something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
> >have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
> >also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?
> >
> >So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
> >way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
> >too!
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
> -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL
>
> I am made for great things by GOD
> and walk with Pride!!!!
> Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
> (please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try
> it now.
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO

The book is called _Jane Asher's Costume Book_ ISBN: 0932086314 
and used copies are currently available for as little as $1 US.     
                  -Helen/Aidan

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Status: RO

Beth,  I have the Dress book already from David Brown. I went to the Barnes
and Nobel site and although they have it listed I don't see a price.
Actually I'm the one who wrote the bit about bribery and corruption to get
my copy.  It is definitely worth the money to me.  It is going right into
it's place next to Queen Elizabeth's Closet Unlocked.  That book is also
printed in the UK by Maney publishing as are my Inventories of the Palace of
White Hall 1542.

I've been in touch with Janet Hogue and she has put me in touch with their
marketing manager Alison Holgate who asked what things the SCA might be
interested in.  I did my best to cover as much as I could and to assure her
that there were plenty of people outside the SCA "Period" or even
organization who were there ready to be marketed to.  She wrote me back with
these suggestions:

"It sounds like we have got loads of titles that would be of interest. In
the way of journals we have...

Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
Textile History
Arms & Armour
Exemplaria: A Journal of Theory in Medieval & Renaissance Studies (history,
theatre, literature, etc)
Medieval Sermon Studies
Medieval Archaeology
Post-Medieval Archaeology
Journal of the British Archaeological Association (?)
Vernacular Architecture (?)

In books we have:
Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd"

Some sound a bit peculiar until you realize that Sermons frequently mention
articles of clothing that are too high, too tight, too revealing, etc.
Archeology is where we find a lot of textile or other finds.  Now I have to
have her give me some quotes for prices.  She was thinking it might be
possible to do something on the order of a special rate for people from a
particular e-group.  Such thoughts need to be encouraged!  I did mention
that Queen Elizabeth's Closet was a pretty sure winner for those of us into
that age.  I'm still kicking myself for only buying one of the mispriced
ones!

Wanda Pease

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:41 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] "Dress at the Court of
> KingHenry Viii"
>
>
> Suzi,
>
> I'm missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume
> (Journal of the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of
> these for sale, please let me know!
>
> I'm also looking Textile History Vol 18 and Dress #26, 1999. (Journal
> of the Costume Society
> of America)
>
> Best price that I could find for "Dress at the Court of King Henry
> Viii" in the USA was Barnes&Noble. They say that it will ship Nov
> 20... I've had it on order for awhile.
>
> Beth
>
> At 08:40 PM 11/14/2007, you wrote:
> >Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:14 +0000
> >From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> >
> >At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote:
> > >I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of
> use to someone
> > >here as well:
> > >
> > >Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] "Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii"
> > >
> > >I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The
> publication
> > >party for the book was to have been 1 October in England.
> Which is why the
> > >books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is
> available in the US
> > >for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
> > >version in that it is larger than 8 x 10") from
> >
> >http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%
20of%20Henr
> >y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1    (David Brown Book company the US
> >distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)
> >
> >Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a
Manley
> >publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society
>
>This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a
>complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year!
>
>Suzi

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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 05:41:33 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
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At 17:05 16/11/2007, you wrote:
>HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane 
>Asher..( remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?) 
>book for fancy dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece 
>but in all the oves and after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a 
>book fobic neanderthal...many of my books were destroyed, but this 
>string reminds me of that book. what I remember
>1.  JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls 
>Queen Elizabth  I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique 
>draperies, a humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of 
>individually wrapped hard candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot 
>glue settings with gilded hot glue "couching" drawing hatching 
>patterns between each one...really pretty COOL!!!
>a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume 
>of horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a 
>card across his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
>Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with 
>milar hair decorations...( she was a firecraker)
>I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
>and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all 
>costuming..even the most  serious period stuff..
>THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for 
>the BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her 
>popularity among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited 
>that with no budget to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and 
>her "little shop"  resorted to thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred 
>insied out and spray painted  with cake doilies for templated to 
>make large brocade like patterns and stiffent the fabrics... 
>chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going to be 
>asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much 
>later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not 
>the paints and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or 
>would eat each other up in storage..chuckkle

I'm sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives" 
costumes for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean Hunnisett. 
Janet was not a costumer but an historian. Jean was on the staff of 
the BBC at the time, and went on to make all Glenda Jackson's 
costumes for "Elizabeth R". I helped Jean to refurbish some of the 
"Wives" costumes when they were on show at Hampton Court in the 
1980's, and Coke bottle tops, metal chains, pieces of laces sprayed 
gold, furnishing fabrics, gum drops (a kind of round sweet), resin 
were all put to good use. By the time "Elizabeth R" came around the 
BBC realised they were on to a good thing, and actually gave Jean a 
reasonably decent budget.

Suzi  

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Henry VII Fashion (was: Dress topics,
	medieval Britain: Your wish list)
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Gentles of the Historic Costume List,
  this humble veteran soldier thanks all of you who have responded to my question about English Dress & Fashion in the Reign of King Henry VII.
  Some of the references cited were of books already in his small reference library, but some of them were unknown to him, and he is most grateful.
   
  YiS,
  "Matthew Baker" [in the SCA]
  Julian Wilson [in 2007]
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fabric
-cost of
-use of
-sumptuary laws relating to
-import of
-export of
-types of

Gunvor



-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 10:25:39 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

That brings back memories, I saw that exhibit at Hampton Court in the
80s, when I was just starting to study costumes.  I wonder where my
photos of the exhibit are.

Katy

On Nov 17, 2007 12:41 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 17:05 16/11/2007, you wrote:
> >HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane
> >Asher..( remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?)
> >book for fancy dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece
> >but in all the oves and after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a
> >book fobic neanderthal...many of my books were destroyed, but this
> >string reminds me of that book. what I remember
> >1.  JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls
> >Queen Elizabth  I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique
> >draperies, a humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of
> >individually wrapped hard candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot
> >glue settings with gilded hot glue "couching" drawing hatching
> >patterns between each one...really pretty COOL!!!
> >a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume
> >of horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a
> >card across his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
> >Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with
> >milar hair decorations...( she was a firecraker)
> >I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
> >and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all
> >costuming..even the most  serious period stuff..
> >THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for
> >the BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her
> >popularity among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited
> >that with no budget to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and
> >her "little shop"  resorted to thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred
> >insied out and spray painted  with cake doilies for templated to
> >make large brocade like patterns and stiffent the fabrics...
> >chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going to be
> >asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much
> >later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not
> >the paints and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or
> >would eat each other up in storage..chuckkle
>
> I'm sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives"
> costumes for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean Hunnisett.
> Janet was not a costumer but an historian. Jean was on the staff of
> the BBC at the time, and went on to make all Glenda Jackson's
> costumes for "Elizabeth R". I helped Jean to refurbish some of the
> "Wives" costumes when they were on show at Hampton Court in the
> 1980's, and Coke bottle tops, metal chains, pieces of laces sprayed
> gold, furnishing fabrics, gum drops (a kind of round sweet), resin
> were all put to good use. By the time "Elizabeth R" came around the
> BBC realised they were on to a good thing, and actually gave Jean a
> reasonably decent budget.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

Margo Anderson wrote:
> My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.  
> Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she might 
> be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?
Get some ramie. Vegetable fiber cloth, naturally bright white, pretty 
much unavailable in North America.

andy
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Status: RO

Thanks Wanda,

Like everyone, I have a budget.. so journals (particularly the 
expensive Maney ones) are usually dropped in favor of books. Many 
look quite interesting.. if only I qualified for the student rate!

Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/17/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:39:02 -0800
>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>
>Beth,  I have the Dress book already from David Brown. I went to the Barnes
>and Nobel site and although they have it listed I don't see a price.
>Actually I'm the one who wrote the bit about bribery and corruption to get
>my copy.  It is definitely worth the money to me.  It is going right into
>it's place next to Queen Elizabeth's Closet Unlocked.  That book is also
>printed in the UK by Maney publishing as are my Inventories of the Palace of
>White Hall 1542.
>
>I've been in touch with Janet Hogue and she has put me in touch with their
>marketing manager Alison Holgate who asked what things the SCA might be
>interested in.  I did my best to cover as much as I could and to assure her
>that there were plenty of people outside the SCA "Period" or even
>organization who were there ready to be marketed to.  She wrote me back with
>these suggestions:
>
>"It sounds like we have got loads of titles that would be of interest. In
>the way of journals we have...
>
>Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
>Textile History
>Arms & Armour
>Exemplaria: A Journal of Theory in Medieval & Renaissance Studies (history,
>theatre, literature, etc)
>Medieval Sermon Studies
>Medieval Archaeology
>Post-Medieval Archaeology
>Journal of the British Archaeological Association (?)
>Vernacular Architecture (?)
>
>In books we have:
>Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd"
>
>Some sound a bit peculiar until you realize that Sermons frequently mention
>articles of clothing that are too high, too tight, too revealing, etc.
>Archeology is where we find a lot of textile or other finds.  Now I have to
>have her give me some quotes for prices.  She was thinking it might be
>possible to do something on the order of a special rate for people from a
>particular e-group.  Such thoughts need to be encouraged!  I did mention
>that Queen Elizabeth's Closet was a pretty sure winner for those of us into
>that age.  I'm still kicking myself for only buying one of the mispriced
>ones!
>
>Wanda Pease

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Shopping in China
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> My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.
> Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she
> might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?

I havent been to Shanghai, but my very well trained husband (who can
give the lecture on different kinds of silk verbatim) has been a lot.
There are interesting tourist markets around.  Best of course, to have
a friendly native guide or a Chinese speaker with you who can help
with the negotiations.

There's a main street, Nan Jing Rd that leads more or less from
Peoples Park to the Bund.  Closer to the Bund it's pedestrians only &
there,  among the posh shops, are fabric stores that deal in
everything, esp silks.  Go price checking here.   You'll be at the
Bund anyway, amongst the old European style buildings, at night to
look across the Huang Po River towads the Pearl Tower for the
lightshow.  Here's a link:
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/shanghai/shopping.htm
Raz says, further toward the Bund the shops get a little older &
rundown looking.  That's where the fabric shops are.  Look also for
the little beaded figures that you can hang from your cellphone (it's
an Asian thing).  I have a red Mandarin guy & a cute pink lizard on
mine.

There's an another area for tourists near the old teahouse.  He's
pretty sure its the Yu Yuan Garden, shown here:
http://www.lovetoeatandtravel.com/Site/Intl/China/Shanghai/Fun/Yu_Yuan_Garden.htm
There's another bunch of very posh shops near this famous garden, but
the periphery blocks are full of places where you can get better
deals.

Silk rugs - Hao Yin No. 1488 HongQiao Road  tel. 13901848866  He says
amazingly beautiful rugs for 100s of US$.  I laughed.  Usually they're
1000s of US$.  OK it sounds odd, but we brought a Tajekestani one home
in our luggage from Singapore.  They fold, they dont break or leak,
they're easy to ship & Customs doesnt raise an eyebrow.

Buy something fabulous!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Shopping in China
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On Nov 18, 2007 9:26 AM, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> > My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.
> > Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she
> > might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?
>
> I havent been to Shanghai, but my very well trained husband (who can
> give the lecture on different kinds of silk verbatim) has been a lot.
--cin

Raz remembered s'more.  He found this:

Silk Market

Sat in the heart of Dong Jia Du Lu, this market is best reached by
getting a taxi as finding it on foot is not easy and it's quite a
hike. A wide array of silks, some better quality than others but
bargain silk scarves and shawls to be found here. Haggling encouraged!

Xiang Yang Lu Clothes Market

As centrally located as you could wish for, please allow at least 3
hours to tour this market! Has toilets, refreshments and people
offering you VCDs/DVDs for sale on almost every corner. This markets
sits on the corner of Huai Hai Zhong Lu and Xiang Yang Nan Lu.

The clothes on offer here are amazingly cheap, but please do not just
accept the first offer, haggle away to your hearts' content here. Some
people say a better bargain is had in the early evening as the vendors
are prepared to haggle and get lower prices. For anything you can
imagine, this place is a Must-See in Shanghai.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Books on recent costume history
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I teach a costume/fashion class and am wondering if there are any 
costume history books that cover the 1960s up to 2000.  All mine stop 
around 1975.  Has anyone written a more current one?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Was wondering if anyone had any experience with this line -- I 
understand it is an older one. I'm seeing them on ebay now, at 
reasonable prices.



Dawn

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Status: RO

I used the ones on the Elizabethan coif. It was great!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Queta's Closet Patterns


Was wondering if anyone had any experience with this line -- I 
understand it is an older one. I'm seeing them on ebay now, at 
reasonable prices.



Dawn

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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 09:08:11 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
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Status: RO

I didn't find the book this weekend - busy, only spent a few minutes
looking, books a mess, la-la-la. Thankfully someone else knew the name of
the book and that it's available.

LynnD


On 11/17/07, Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> That brings back memories, I saw that exhibit at Hampton Court in the
> 80s, when I was just starting to study costumes.  I wonder where my
> photos of the exhibit are.
>
> Katy
>
> On Nov 17, 2007 12:41 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> > At 17:05 16/11/2007, you wrote:
> > >HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane
> > >Asher..( remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?)
> > >book for fancy dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece
> > >but in all the oves and after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a
> > >book fobic neanderthal...many of my books were destroyed, but this
> > >string reminds me of that book. what I remember
> > >1.  JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls
> > >Queen Elizabth  I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique
> > >draperies, a humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of
> > >individually wrapped hard candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot
> > >glue settings with gilded hot glue "couching" drawing hatching
> > >patterns between each one...really pretty COOL!!!
> > >a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume
> > >of horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a
> > >card across his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
> > >Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with
> > >milar hair decorations...( she was a firecraker)
> > >I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
> > >and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all
> > >costuming..even the most  serious period stuff..
> > >THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for
> > >the BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her
> > >popularity among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited
> > >that with no budget to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and
> > >her "little shop"  resorted to thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred
> > >insied out and spray painted  with cake doilies for templated to
> > >make large brocade like patterns and stiffent the fabrics...
> > >chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going to be
> > >asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much
> > >later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not
> > >the paints and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or
> > >would eat each other up in storage..chuckkle
> >
> > I'm sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives"
> > costumes for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean Hunnisett.
> > Janet was not a costumer but an historian. Jean was on the staff of
> > the BBC at the time, and went on to make all Glenda Jackson's
> > costumes for "Elizabeth R". I helped Jean to refurbish some of the
> > "Wives" costumes when they were on show at Hampton Court in the
> > 1980's, and Coke bottle tops, metal chains, pieces of laces sprayed
> > gold, furnishing fabrics, gum drops (a kind of round sweet), resin
> > were all put to good use. By the time "Elizabeth R" came around the
> > BBC realised they were on to a good thing, and actually gave Jean a
> > reasonably decent budget.
> >
> > Suzi
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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	history
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Status: RO

Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I teach a costume/fashion class and am wondering if there are any
> costume history books that cover the 1960s up to 2000.  All mine stop
> around 1975.  Has anyone written a more current one?
>
>

And on a similar note ...

What's your favorite text for pre-20th century clothing?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
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Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books on recent costume history
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Status: RO

Try Fairchild Publishers. They do Women's Wear Daily. They just  published
"20th Century Dress in the United States" by Jane Farrell-Beck and Jean
Parsons
ISBN: 978-1-56367-415-0. If you are getting books for the class, you can
usually get a copy for yourself to check before placing the order.

Monica


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Books on recent costume history


I teach a costume/fashion class and am wondering if there are any
costume history books that cover the 1960s up to 2000.  All mine stop
around 1975.  Has anyone written a more current one?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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published " 20th Century Dress in the United States


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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Halloween and the perception of costume
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My Appologies..for remembering incorrectly...but i was sure I heard it at a lecture bye JAnet in the early 90's..guess i must be getting senile...sorry.
  Bambi

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  At 17:05 16/11/2007, you wrote:
>HAs ANybody got a copy of or know how to get a copy of the Jane 
>Asher..( remember the ORIGINAL Paul McCartney gal back in the 60's?) 
>book for fancy dress or costuming or somthing.. ,I had a copy onece 
>but in all the oves and after an unfortunate 5 year marriage with a 
>book fobic neanderthal...many of my books were destroyed, but this 
>string reminds me of that book. what I remember
>1. JAnes own daughter or granddaughter dressed in a little girls 
>Queen Elizabth I jeweled costume made out of thirft shop antique 
>draperies, a humongous paper doily ruff , and jewles out of 
>individually wrapped hard candies like Charmes nestled in gilded hot 
>glue settings with gilded hot glue "couching" drawing hatching 
>patterns between each one...really pretty COOL!!!
>a grown man ( JAmes Coburn) actually modeling a "jailbird" costume 
>of horizontally srtiped shirt with a convits number written on a 
>card across his chset and the piece de ressistance... huge bird feet .
>Haly MIlls dress I believe in a huge brightly colored tube with 
>milar hair decorations...( she was a firecraker)
>I do not remember the title of the book but it was TOTALLY UNFOGETABLE
>and reminded me even then to keep my sence of humore about all 
>costuming..even the most serious period stuff..
>THe LAte GREAT Jante Arnolde ,herself told stories of costuming for 
>the BBC's 6 Wives of HEnry the Eight , which sort of launched her 
>popularity among the unenitiated back then..and yet...she admited 
>that with no budget to speak of,and no time to do it in...she and 
>her "little shop" resorted to thift shop curtains, sometimes tunred 
>insied out and spray painted with cake doilies for templated to 
>make large brocade like patterns and stiffent the fabrics... 
>chuckle. She also said if she had has a clue they were going to be 
>asked for to used in other series...that SHE was to costume much 
>later...she might have paid a bit more attention to whater or not 
>the paints and the goddess know WHAT fabrics were compatible or 
>would eat each other up in storage..chuckkle

I'm sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives" 
costumes for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean Hunnisett. 
Janet was not a costumer but an historian. Jean was on the staff of 
the BBC at the time, and went on to make all Glenda Jackson's 
costumes for "Elizabeth R". I helped Jean to refurbish some of the 
"Wives" costumes when they were on show at Hampton Court in the 
1980's, and Coke bottle tops, metal chains, pieces of laces sprayed 
gold, furnishing fabrics, gum drops (a kind of round sweet), resin 
were all put to good use. By the time "Elizabeth R" came around the 
BBC realised they were on to a good thing, and actually gave Jean a 
reasonably decent budget.

Suzi 

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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride!!!!
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
       
---------------------------------
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In a message dated 11/19/2007 9:10:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com writes:

I'm  sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives" 
costumes  for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean  Hunnisett


I also THOUGHT Janet Arnold also lectured on the subject, but I could be  
wrong.  I remember, in the early 1990s, she was making the rounds in the  US, and 
I heard her speak on both the Medici Grave Clothes and one other  
topic--either it was "Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" (which of course we know  she wrote 
about) OR the wives of Henry VIII.  Sorry this is so vague--but I  traveled 
almost 200 miles to hear her speak on the one she HADN'T spoken on,  only to 
learn she was repeating one I had already heard.  But I can't  remember which was 
which!
 
Are you SURE she didn't consult on Henry VIII, even if she didn't design  it?
 
Anyone else remember?
 
Ann Wass 



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Subject: [h-cost] Was Halloween now 6 Wives and Elizabeth R
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At 02:16 20/11/2007, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 11/19/2007 9:10:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com writes:
>
>I'm  sorry, but I have to correct you. The person who made the "Wives"
>costumes  for the BBC series was not Janet Arnold, but Jean  Hunnisett
>
>
>I also THOUGHT Janet Arnold also lectured on the subject, but I could be
>wrong.  I remember, in the early 1990s, she was making the rounds in 
>the  US, and
>I heard her speak on both the Medici Grave Clothes and one other
>topic--either it was "Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" (which of 
>course we know  she wrote
>about) OR the wives of Henry VIII.  Sorry this is so vague--but I  traveled
>almost 200 miles to hear her speak on the one she HADN'T spoken on,  only to
>learn she was repeating one I had already heard.  But I 
>can't  remember which was
>which!
>
>Are you SURE she didn't consult on Henry VIII, even if she didn't design  it?

Oh, yes, I'm very sure. I knew Jean Hunnisett very well, and she got 
very indignant when people suggested that Janet Arnold had influenced 
the making of both "Henry" and "Elizabeth", and in fact asked me to 
make it very clear in an obituary I wrote on her, under her 
instruction. Janet was researching "QEWU" at the time of Elizabeth, 
and knew the director's wife, so was invited on set to see how things 
were. She took loads of photos, which must be somewhere. She and Jean 
already knew each other through membership of the Costume Society, 
and Janet offered to make some ruffs, as that was her particular area 
of research at the time. That was her only involvement in either of 
the two series, according to Jean.

The designer of "The 6 Wives" was John Bloomfield 
(http://www.televisionheaven.co.uk/henry.htm), a theatre designer, ho 
was still designing when Jean left Glyndebourne a year or so before 
she died. The designer of "Elizabeth R" was Elizabeth Waller 
(http://www.pfd.co.uk/clients/wallere/t-cde.html), who I also know, 
and worked for (the worst ever job) on "Company of Wolves".

Suzi

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In a message dated 11/20/2007 3:48:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

She took  loads of photos, which must be somewhere. She and Jean 
already knew each  other through membership of the Costume Society, 
and Janet offered to make  some ruffs, as that was her particular area 
of research at the time. That  was her only involvement in either of 
the two series, according to  Jean.




Well, if she took loads of photos, maybe she DID lecture on it.   Actually, 
you have awakened some memories from over 15 years ago--I think she  did 
lecture on it, but made no design claims or anything of the sort.   (I'm afraid I 
have to admit that I hadn't heard of Jean Hunnisett back  then, so if she was 
mentioned, it wouldn't have meant anything to me.)  And  it was the Queen 
Elizabeth lecture I travelled 200 miles for and then she  didn't give it.  
 
Ann Wass



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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 14:03:29 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Was Halloween now 6 Wives and Elizabeth R
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At 11:04 20/11/2007, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 11/20/2007 3:48:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>She took  loads of photos, which must be somewhere. She and Jean
>already knew each  other through membership of the Costume Society,
>and Janet offered to make  some ruffs, as that was her particular area
>of research at the time. That  was her only involvement in either of
>the two series, according to  Jean.
>
>
>
>
>Well, if she took loads of photos, maybe she DID lecture on it.   Actually,
>you have awakened some memories from over 15 years ago--I think she  did
>lecture on it, but made no design claims or anything of the 
>sort.   (I'm afraid I
>have to admit that I hadn't heard of Jean Hunnisett back  then, so if she was
>mentioned, it wouldn't have meant anything to me.)  And  it was the Queen
>Elizabeth lecture I travelled 200 miles for and then she  didn't give it.
>

It is possible that it was a lecture on "Costume in a Theatrical 
Context". (not her title).This was something Janet found very 
interesting, and went frequently to the theatre. She happily 
suspended disbelief about historical accuracy, something I can do in 
theatre but not on film! She used to do a lecture on how you could 
date a movie simply by looking at the costume design, make-up and 
wigs, and particularly hats. (Gainsborough hats in 16th and 17th 
century movies were a particular source of amusement, I remember!)

I saw and heard most of the lectures she gave, as she would try them 
out on us at college, and I would regularly travel to hear her if 
possible, although not 200 miles! They varied very little, as she had 
all the slides and notes together, and could just pick up the 
appropriate one as required. (A treasure trove for someone to inherit 
- don't I wish that was me?!)

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain:
  Your
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Most of what I thought is more dress accessories but it might be of some use.
For earlier in the period I thought of :
- wrist clasps
- maybe an entry or something parpahenalia commonly hanging off belts 
like toiletries, shears, keys, knives, amulets, pouches, crystal balls etc
- regional variations. I'm thinking particularly of Kent and the 
different placement of brooches in the grave that some have suggested 
to indicate a open robe as well as the various influence saxons, 
anglian, jutes etc had on dress.
- coloured veils
- dress pins

-Then there is:
- hooks and eyes
- buttons
- toggles
- pilgrim badges, funerary badges
- braids (various techniques used to make them, finishing, gummed edges etc)
- ribbons
- ecclesiastical garments and clothing of monks, nuns, priests and 
their changes over the period
- servant livery
- robes, chains, and badges of office
- leather
- opus anglicanum
- jewellery (brooches, ear rings, finger rings, pendant, necklaces, 
bracelets etc.)
- belt buckles, stap ends


Sharon Nevin


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Subject: [h-cost] Hello?
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I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could someone let 
me know if this goes through. :0)

Thanks!

Sheridan P


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At 09:14 AM 11/23/2007, you wrote:
>I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could 
>someone let me know if this goes through. :0)
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sheridan P


Got it,  everyone must be busy..

Genie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello?
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Got it loud and clear!

Starr
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shane Sheridan Chabot" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Hello?


>I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could someone let 
>me know if this goes through. :0)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sheridan P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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Dear list,
Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll kick  
off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
 
I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some very  
expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can make  something 
like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was  in my 
stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it has a  printed 
design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead didn't  match 
color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th trip to  
JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough trims in  my 
stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, solid  white 
skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt  has three 
rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has another  white trim 
around the edge, and each also has yet another trim around the  neckline.  
The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The navy bodice 
is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
 
After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
 
Ann Wass



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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I'm embarking on making blackwork kits for my granddaughters. They're old
enough to learn now. :-)

Arlys

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:04:20 EST AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> Dear list,
> Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, 
> I'll kick  
> off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
>  
> I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some 
> very  
> expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can 
> make  something 
> like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was  
> in my 
> stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it 
> has a  printed 
> design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead 
> didn't  match 
> color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th 
> trip to  
> JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough 
> trims in  my 
> stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, 
> solid  white 
> skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt 
>  has three 
> rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has another 
>  white trim 
> around the edge, and each also has yet another trim around the  
> neckline.  
> The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The 
> navy bodice 
> is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
>  
> After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's 
> hottest 
> products.
>
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001
)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:23:25 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm not yet to the gift sewing phase - right now I'm
concentrating on getting through my youngest son's
Eagle ceremony tomorrow. My folks are headed to a
month in India over Christmas, so we had our big
family get together this weekend and combined
Thanksgiving and Eagle and a couple birthdays. A bit
overkill, but given the way our family comes and goes,
necessary.

I will start on the gifts next week - Promise. I only
have a couple things that didn't get finished last
year. :-)
Then Ansel wants a new Frobisuit for Bristol next year
and he definitely needs a couple of new shirts and I
need to finish the demi-cape.....
Rebecca

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Dear list,
> Since the traffic has been light, and we assume
> people are busy, I'll kick  
> off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:23:25 -0800> From: ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> Su=
bject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC=
: >> Then Ansel wants a new Frobisuit for Bristol next year
=20
A what?
=20
Laurie
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_1120=
07=
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On Nov 23, 2007, at 10:24 AM, zelda crusher wrote:

>
>> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:23:25 -0800> From:  
>> ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making  
>> holiday gifts?> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC: >> Then Ansel wants a  
>> new Frobisuit for Bristol next year
>
> A what?


My guess would be that
    Bristol = Bristol Renaissance Faire
    Frobi = Sir Martin Frobisher (if I'm remembering the name right)
    suit = outfit

Good guess?
____________________________________________________________
O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
+  Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
     Guild of St. George, Northern California
     http://paternosters.blogspot.com  -  http://paternoster-row.org
____________________________________________________________


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Yes, your message has gotten through to me just fine!

Julie

Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:
> I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could 
> someone let me know if this goes through. :0)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sheridan P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Received loud and clear. Over and out.

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shane Sheridan Chabot" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Hello?


>I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could someone let 
>me know if this goes through. :0)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sheridan P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Aha!

Thats what I was hoping, my email provider occasionally eats email from time 
to time, it then burps and dumps 100 messages on my poor beleaguered pc. :0)

I was getting nervous....

Thanks everyone!


>From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello?
>Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:58:30 -0600
>
>At 09:14 AM 11/23/2007, you wrote:
>>I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could someone 
>>let me know if this goes through. :0)
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Sheridan P
>
>
>Got it,  everyone must be busy..
>
>Genie
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Sarah Paterson <sjpaterson@eastlink.ca>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Frobisuit (WAS: Busy making holiday gifts?)
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That was mine...

Sarah Paterson

-----Original Message-----



My guess would be that
    Bristol = Bristol Renaissance Faire
    Frobi = Sir Martin Frobisher (if I'm remembering the name right)
    suit = outfit

Good guess?
____________________________________________________________
O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
+  Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
     Guild of St. George, Northern California
     http://paternosters.blogspot.com  -  http://paternoster-row.org
____________________________________________________________


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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  I'm making blackwork rushnyki (icon scarves) for friends at church
(progress can be seen at my flickr page below), in between nursing =
orphan
kittens and now trying to housebreak a very cute puppy with no clue =
about
"inside" and "outside"...
   I don't think I'm going to finish my Christmas presents by Christmas. =
<G>
I think some may turn into Theophany (12th Night) presents, and nameday
presents, and birthday presents....


THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:04 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Dear list,
Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll =
kick =20
off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
=20
I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some very =20
expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can make
something=20
like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was  in my =

stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it has a
printed=20
design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead didn't  =
match

color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th trip =
to =20
JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough trims =
in
my=20
stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, solid
white=20
skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt  =
has
three=20
rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has another  =
white
trim=20
around the edge, and each also has yet another trim around the  =
neckline. =20
The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The =
navy
bodice=20
is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
=20
After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
=20
Ann Wass



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's =
hottest

products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=3Daoltop000300000000=
01)
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I will be out of the office starting  11/22/2007 and will not return until
11/26/2007.


I am out of the office for Thanksgiving, if you have an urgent request,
call me at 510-882-4399.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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In a message dated 11/23/2007 4:01:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
fathallas@collinscom.net writes:

I'm  making blackwork rushnyki (icon scarves) for friends at church
(progress  can be seen at my flickr page below),


Good heavens!  How ambitious!
 
I don't know how others feel about making multiples--one year, I decided,  
since money was tight, to make our three ministers identical pieced stoles--I  
had all the silk at home already in all the liturgical colors--red, green,  
purple, and cream.  I worked out my pattern, and the first one was  fun,  But by 
the time I got to the third one!  Knew I had to keep  going, but I really 
didn't want to.
 
Ann Wass



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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Status: RO

  Heh.  I think the word may be "nuts", at least in my case...or at =
least
biting off more than I want to chew.  I can't do multiples of the same
pattern - I get bored just doing the same pattern on two ends of these
scarves!=20
Every one - if ever ever I finish them - will be different, and =
therefore I
will still like them when I'm finished. <G>

   I've been offered goof money for custom pieces, but I find I just =
can't
get into the embroidery if I HAVE to do it.  Guess if I'm ever gonna get
rich (hah!) will have to do the work first, and sell it later....

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 3:05 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

=20
In a message dated 11/23/2007 4:01:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, =20


Good heavens!  How ambitious!
=20
I don't know how others feel about making multiples--one year, I =
decided, =20
since money was tight, to make our three ministers identical pieced
stoles--I =20
had all the silk at home already in all the liturgical colors--red, =
green, =20
purple, and cream.  I worked out my pattern, and the first one was  fun,
But by=20
the time I got to the third one!  Knew I had to keep  going, but I =
really=20
didn't want to.
=20
Ann Wass



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's =
hottest

products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=3Daoltop000300000000=
01)
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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  Ooo, fun!  And what good taste in techniques to learn! <G>

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:21 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

I'm embarking on making blackwork kits for my granddaughters. They're old
enough to learn now. :-)

Arlys

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:04:20 EST AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> Dear list,
> Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, 
> I'll kick  
> off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
>  
> I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some 
> very  
> expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can 
> make  something 
> like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was  
> in my 
> stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it 
> has a  printed 
> design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead 
> didn't  match 
> color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th 
> trip to  
> JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough 
> trims in  my 
> stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, 
> solid  white 
> skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt 
>  has three 
> rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has another 
>  white trim 
> around the edge, and each also has yet another trim around the  
> neckline.  
> The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The 
> navy bodice 
> is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
>  
> After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's 
> hottest 
> products.
>
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001
)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:23:02 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Magnificent!  Thanks for sharing.

Susan
"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness" Carol H.

On Nov 23, 2007, at 4:00 PM, Frank A Thallas Jr wrote:

>   I'm making blackwork rushnyki (icon scarves) for friends at church
> (progress can be seen at my flickr page below), in between nursing 
> orphan
> kittens and now trying to housebreak a very cute puppy with no clue 
> about
> "inside" and "outside"...
>    I don't think I'm going to finish my Christmas presents by 
> Christmas. <G>
> I think some may turn into Theophany (12th Night) presents, and nameday
> presents, and birthday presents....
>
>
> THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
> wildernesse, the Outlands
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
>
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I got it.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Fri 11/23/2007 10:14 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Hello?



I have not been receiving any email from the list lately, could someone =
let
me know if this goes through. :0)

Thanks!

Sheridan P


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Congratulations to you & your son on his Eagle.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Fri 11/23/2007 12:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?



I'm not yet to the gift sewing phase - right now I'm
concentrating on getting through my youngest son's
Eagle ceremony tomorrow. My folks are headed to a
month in India over Christmas, so we had our big
family get together this weekend and combined
Thanksgiving and Eagle and a couple birthdays. A bit
overkill, but given the way our family comes and goes,
necessary.

I will start on the gifts next week - Promise. I only
have a couple things that didn't get finished last
year. :-)
Then Ansel wants a new Frobisuit for Bristol next year
and he definitely needs a couple of new shirts and I
need to finish the demi-cape.....
Rebecca

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Dear list,
> Since the traffic has been light, and we assume
> people are busy, I'll kick=20
> off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat =
folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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LOL!  That would explain why I got NUTHIN' when I googled "Frobisuit"!
Laurie> From: claning@igc.org> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 11:09:10 -0800> To: h=
-costume@indra.com> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Frobisuit (WAS: Busy making hol=
iday gifts?)> > > On Nov 23, 2007, at 10:24 AM, zelda crusher wrote:> > >> =
>> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:23:25 -0800> From: > >> ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.n=
et> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making > >> holiday gifts?> To: h-costume@in=
dra.com> CC: >> Then Ansel wants a > >> new Frobisuit for Bristol next year=
> >> > A what?> > > My guess would be that> Bristol =3D Bristol Renaissance=
 Faire> Frobi =3D Sir Martin Frobisher (if I'm remembering the name right)>=
 suit =3D outfit> > Good guess?> __________________________________________=
__________________> O Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford> + Chr=
is Laning <claning@igc.org>> Guild of St. George, Northern California> http=
://paternosters.blogspot.com - http://paternoster-row.org> ________________=
____________________________________________> > > _________________________=
______________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> h=
ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE=
!
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_1120=
07=
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I have had good luck finding reasonably priced tropical weight wool from
fashionfabrics.com  They have been reliable and occasionally have some
great sales.  I have also had pretty good luck dying the light weight wool
just using Rit dye.  A lot of times they have tan or something kind of
bland.Be careful with ordering velvet from them though.  That was the only
time I was disappointed with their fabric.

Beverly

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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> Dear list,
> Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll kick  
> off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
>  

No, we're enjoying a self indulgent, quiet weekend at home pigging out 
on turkey and cranberry salad, and planning a tropical cruise. :)

I wish I had a sewing project, but I got so burned out over Halloween 
that it will be a while before I spend time in the sewing room again.


Dawn

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frobisuit (WAS: Busy making holiday gifts?)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Exactly right!! I was running through the list in my
head and didn't stop to think that most folks wouldn't
know what a Frobisuit was. 

You can see it here - he's the one in gold/red, 

waving at the camera
http://robynsroost.com/brf07/week7/brf046.jpg

standing at the far right
http://robynsroost.com/brf07/week3/brf116.jpg

His current garb has been through 2 hard years of use
and he lost weight over his stay in York, so now it
doesn't fit well.

My problem is - once again - finding fabric. I lucked
into the the tropical weight wool crepe I used last
time. Not having the same luck this go around. 

I mostly like living way out in the country, but times
like this I would kill to live near a large city with
good fabric stores. Wal-Mart and JoAnn's just don't
cut it.

Rebecca

--- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:

> 
> On Nov 23, 2007, at 10:24 AM, zelda crusher wrote:
> 
> >
> >> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 09:23:25 -0800> From:  
> >> ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [h-cost]
> Busy making  
> >> holiday gifts?> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC: >>
> Then Ansel wants a  
> >> new Frobisuit for Bristol next year
> >
> > A what?
> 
> 
> My guess would be that
>     Bristol = Bristol Renaissance Faire
>     Frobi = Sir Martin Frobisher (if I'm remembering
> the name right)
>     suit = outfit
> 
> Good guess?
>
____________________________________________________________
> O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
> +  Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
>      Guild of St. George, Northern California
>      http://paternosters.blogspot.com  - 
> http://paternoster-row.org
>
____________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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bazizi@uci.edu wrote:
> I have had good luck finding reasonably priced tropical weight wool from
> fashionfabrics.com  They have been reliable and occasionally have some
> great sales.  I have also had pretty good luck dying the light weight wool
> just using Rit dye.  A lot of times they have tan or something kind of
> bland.Be careful with ordering velvet from them though.  That was the only
> time I was disappointed with their fabric.

That's the major problem with ordering over the internet, you never 
really know what you're getting until it arrives. And with places like 
FashionFabrics, which carry a lot of random bolts left over from fashion 
manufacturers, you can't be sure that anything you are getting is going 
to be at all what you expect. Any two wools or velvets are likely to be 
of completely different origin.

Some really good deals there, though, if you're willing to take the 
chance. :)

I haven't seen any nice wools in a long time, an I have lousy luck 
trying to dye anything.



Dawn
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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  Thanks!  I may have to go to "minirushnyki" (sized for one icon instead of
a group) if I hope to finish any more, sigh....
   But then I'd get to do many many more patterns!

Liadain
  Whose clutter has gone past creative into downright "artistic"...<G>

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 5:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Magnificent!  Thanks for sharing.

Susan
"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness" Carol H.


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Greetings Liadain,
=20
What's the next step past artistic - I think I'm there. Currently, even =
the sewing macine is buried. (Maybe that's two steps beyond.)
=20
Ceit=20

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Fri 11/23/2007 11:18 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?





Liadain
  Whose clutter has gone past creative into downright "artistic"...<G>

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies




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I have just had a week off work making curtains for the new house.  I'm 
pretty pleased - two pairs of muslins, two pairs of full curtains, and 
two pairs for our two garden sheds, to stop people seeing what we are 
keeping in there.  We've spent today putting up new poles and hanging 
the curtains - the people before us had only white blinds and thin 
curtains, it's so much cosier now!

I have to go back to work on Monday - pooh!

JEan

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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  Heh.  You win.  I can see my sewing machine.  However, I do NOT have a
place to plug it in.

Liadain
Having just returned from venturing to town, and buying MORE stuff

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rickard, Patty 
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 8:51 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Greetings Liadain,
 
What's the next step past artistic - I think I'm there. Currently, even the
sewing macine is buried. (Maybe that's two steps beyond.)
 
Ceit 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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At 08:52 PM 11/24/2007, you wrote:
>  Heh.  You win.  I can see my sewing machine.  However, I do NOT have a
>place to plug it in.
>
>Liadain
>Having just returned from venturing to town, and buying MORE stuff


I'm still working on my embroidered Elizabethan commission and 
cursing my embroidery machine for dying so I have to do this 
embroidery BY HAND (and it's elaborate, too.)

But just yesterday, the new motor arrived for my Singer 99K so at 
least part of today will be spent plugging that little beauty in and 
playing with it!

Dianne


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Maybe a breaker bar and a loooog extension cord?
=20
Ceit

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Sat 11/24/2007 8:52 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?




  Heh.  You win.  I can see my sewing machine.  However, I do NOT have a
place to plug it in.

Liadain
Having just returned from venturing to town, and buying MORE stuff

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies




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So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people, 
got cool books...)
and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!!
on the first weekend in May!!!! WAHHAAAAAAAA!!
That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend.
So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard >grumph<
Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict 
the next time they plan an event. Please?
Ta
Carol, Fri, getting ready, Mon not mobile before the whole shebang ends :-(
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net> wrote:
  So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people, 
got cool books...)  COMMENT
  Darkover Grand Council?
  I have the feeling I may be missing something!
   I'm a great fan of MZB's "Darkover" Novels. 
  Is there a Role-playing participatory group [like the SCA] for "Darkover Series" enthusiasts? 
  If so, someone please send me the URL for the Home Page - so I can take a look and see what "Darkover" enthusiasts are doing, and where, and with whom.
   
  Julian Wilson,
  in "old" Jersey,
  [isolated from the world by the English Channel and the Gulf of St. Malo].


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From: Kathleen Hanrahan <kathleen.hanrahan@homenode.us>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Darkover " group? - was CC 2009 whine...
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Julian,

julian wilson wrote:
 > cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net> wrote:
 > >  So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people,
 > >  got cool books...)  COMMENT
 >
 > Darkover Grand Council?
 > <snip>
 > If so, someone please send me the URL for the
 > Home Page - so I can take a look and see what
 > "Darkover" enthusiasts are doing, and where,
 > and with whom.

I believe that Carol is referring to the Darkover Con which happens 
annually over the (US) Thanksgiving weekend.  It seems to always (that 
I've heard) take place in Timonium, Maryland (MD) which is on the East 
Coast, about a half hour drive north of Baltimore, Maryland.

In the US, Thanksgiving is the fourth Thursday of November.

Here is the URL - http://www.darkovercon.com/


Kathleen
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     Oh no!  The organizers may well have thought the Sheep & Wool fest
would be fun for CC participants to see.  Not good for people who
will be at Sheep & Wool full time, though.  You might be able to do
some of the evening things at Costume Con, though.

     -Carol


> So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people,
> got cool books...)
> and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!!
> on the first weekend in May!!!! WAHHAAAAAAAA!!
> That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend.
> So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard >grumph<
> Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict
> the next time they plan an event. Please?
> Ta
> Carol, Fri, getting ready, Mon not mobile before the whole shebang ends
> :-(
> --
> Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!


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  Embroidery?  MACHINE?!?  What manner of sorcery is THIS? <G>

   Sounds like you're gonna have fun with the new one, though....someday
maybe, when we can plug in more than 2 things in our house without the
circuit breakers popping...<G>


Liadain
Little house on the prairie



THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne & Greg Stucki
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

At 08:52 PM 11/24/2007, you wrote:
>  Heh.  You win.  I can see my sewing machine.  However, I do NOT have a
>place to plug it in.
>
>Liadain
>Having just returned from venturing to town, and buying MORE stuff


I'm still working on my embroidered Elizabethan commission and 
cursing my embroidery machine for dying so I have to do this 
embroidery BY HAND (and it's elaborate, too.)

But just yesterday, the new motor arrived for my Singer 99K so at 
least part of today will be spent plugging that little beauty in and 
playing with it!

Dianne


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  Yup.  Got that just as standard operating procedure.  Just no empty
outlets any more...
Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rickard, Patty 
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Maybe a breaker bar and a loooog extension cord?
 
Ceit

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Sat 11/24/2007 8:52 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?




  Heh.  You win.  I can see my sewing machine.  However, I do NOT have a
place to plug it in.

Liadain
Having just returned from venturing to town, and buying MORE stuff

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies




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I'm handsewing some baby doll clothes from the 1960's, from?the Simplicity recent re-issues for my daughters Christmas box (or should that be huge stocking?!).? Handsewing them because I am doing jury service, and most of the time is spent waiting around.? 

Regards
Jayne

-----Original Message-----
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 5.04pm
Subject: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?



Dear list,
Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll kick  
off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
 
I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some very  
expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can make  
something 
like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was  in my 
stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it has a  printed 

design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead didn't  match 
color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th trip to  
JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough trims in  my 
stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, solid  white 
skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt  has three 
rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has another  white trim 

around the edge, and each also has yet another trim around the  neckline.  
The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The navy bodice 

is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
 
After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
 
Ann Wass



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 14:15:50 -0700
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  Oooo, cool project!  (And I hope an interesting trial, so you are not too
bored...)

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of needlethread96@aol.co.uk
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 12:59 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

I'm handsewing some baby doll clothes from the 1960's, from?the Simplicity
recent re-issues for my daughters Christmas box (or should that be huge
stocking?!).? Handsewing them because I am doing jury service, and most of
the time is spent waiting around.? 

Regards
Jayne


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Darkover " group? - was CC 2009 whine...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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TYVM, Kathleen.
  I shall look up that website a.s.a.m.b.
  So there's even role-playing for MJB Drakover fans?
  Wonderful.
  Thanks again,
  Julian

Kathleen Hanrahan <kathleen.hanrahan@homenode.us> wrote:
  Julian,

julian wilson wrote:
> cahuff wrote:
> > So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people,
> > got cool books...) COMMENT
>
> Darkover Grand Council?
> 
> If so, someone please send me the URL for the
> Home Page - so I can take a look and see what
> "Darkover" enthusiasts are doing, and where,
> and with whom.

I believe that Carol is referring to the Darkover Con which happens 
annually over the (US) Thanksgiving weekend. It seems to always (that 
I've heard) take place in Timonium, Maryland (MD) which is on the East 
Coast, about a half hour drive north of Baltimore, Maryland.

In the US, Thanksgiving is the fourth Thursday of November.

Here is the URL - http://www.darkovercon.com/


Kathleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 02:13 PM 11/25/2007, you wrote:

>   Embroidery?  MACHINE?!?  What manner of sorcery is THIS? <G>


It is a wondrous thing, this sorcery--except when you have spent 
months planning out the designs for this outfit (it is for Carnevale 
in Venice, and accuracy is not a requirement) and then the bloody 
machine DIES in the middle of it!

If I wasn't in a hurry, I'd be enjoying the process, and I'm thinking 
of making some hand-embroidered garb for myself (in a slightly more 
leisurely fashion) after I'm done with this but WAAAH I want my machine!

Dianne


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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 16:00:33 -0700
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  Heh.  Machines seem to do that, yep.  But even by hand, if there's a
deadline, something comes up - kittens, puppies, kids, broken body
parts....<G>

Liadain
Getting ready top watch "Hogfather" on TV in one hour YAY!!!!

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne & Greg Stucki
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 3:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

At 02:13 PM 11/25/2007, you wrote:

>   Embroidery?  MACHINE?!?  What manner of sorcery is THIS? <G>


It is a wondrous thing, this sorcery--except when you have spent 
months planning out the designs for this outfit (it is for Carnevale 
in Venice, and accuracy is not a requirement) and then the bloody 
machine DIES in the middle of it!

If I wasn't in a hurry, I'd be enjoying the process, and I'm thinking 
of making some hand-embroidered garb for myself (in a slightly more 
leisurely fashion) after I'm done with this but WAAAH I want my machine!

Dianne


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Subject: [h-cost] New Book on Silk Fabrics in Paintings
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This was in the latest new book listing from Michael Shamansky, and I would  
like to know if anyone has had a chance to see a copy yet or had heard 
anything  about it (realizing it is not set to come out until February).
 
Thanks,
 
Nancy
 
Catalog Number: 53524
Title: Merchants, Princes and Painters Silk  Fabrics in Italian and Northern 
Paintings, 1300-1550 
Author: Monnas,  Lisa
Price: $75.00 
ISBN: 9780300111170 
Description: New Haven  and London: Yale University Press, 2008. 28cm., 
hardcover, 352pp., 150 color,  100 b&w illus. Covering a period that witnessed the 
flowering of the  Renaissance and the major expansion of the Italian silk 
industry, this volume  examines the Italian silk fabrics depicted in paintings 
from Italy, England and  the Netherlands over the course of 250 years. Through a 
close study of the  workshop practice and techniques of the artists who 
represented these fabrics,  Lisa Monnas offers a masterly evaluation of the 
paintings as source material for  classifying surviving textiles. Dealing with an 
exceptionally long period, she  considers a large number of examples in greater 
depth than has ever been  attempted, and gives particular attention to the 
identification of historic  textile types and their weave structure. Monnas 
examines a wide range of  subjects, including silk as a marker of social status, the 
material possessions  of artists and their ownership of textiles as props, the 
involvement of painters  in silk design, and the repetition and transfer of 
patterns. She considers the  evidence of paintings not only for the veracity 
with which the silks are  depicted but also for their value as a historic source 
concerning the use of  fabrics. Over a period of two and a half centuries, 
tastes and patterns of  consumption altered, and these changes, which can be 
traced through documentary  sources, are reflected in the paintings. The 
conclusion of this impressive  analysis brings the discussion full circle by looking 
at the reincarnation,  during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, of 
silk patterns taken from  late-medieval and renaissance paintings, reproduced 
as wallpapers or woven as  new fabrics (some of which are still in production 
today). This important and  desirable book - beautifully illustrated with many 
unfamiliar paintings and with  surviving fabrics, some of which have never 
been reproduced before - not only  re-evaluates the dating and identification of 
individual textiles, but also  brings fresh insights into the material values 
of the artists and their clients.  Its authoritative and original approach to 
both fabrics and paintings makes it  of inestimable value to historians of 
textiles, art and material culture alike.  ^Available February 2008^. 




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ce8.1e875949.347b78a5@aol.com>
In-Reply-To: <ce8.1e875949.347b78a5@aol.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Book on Silk Fabrics in Paintings
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:05:42 -0600
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That would soooo compliment:
"The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice" by Luca Mola
It is on my list of books to get. I also would like to know more about the
one from Lisa Monnas. :)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:17 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] New Book on Silk Fabrics in Paintings

This was in the latest new book listing from Michael Shamansky, and I would

like to know if anyone has had a chance to see a copy yet or had heard 
anything  about it (realizing it is not set to come out until February).
 
Thanks,
 
Nancy
 
Catalog Number: 53524
Title: Merchants, Princes and Painters Silk  Fabrics in Italian and Northern

Paintings, 1300-1550 
Author: Monnas,  Lisa
Price: $75.00 
ISBN: 9780300111170 
Description: New Haven  and London: Yale University Press, 2008. 28cm., 
hardcover, 352pp., 150 color,  100 b&w illus. Covering a period that
witnessed the 
flowering of the  Renaissance and the major expansion of the Italian silk 
industry, this volume  examines the Italian silk fabrics depicted in
paintings 
from Italy, England and  the Netherlands over the course of 250 years.
Through a 
close study of the  workshop practice and techniques of the artists who 
represented these fabrics,  Lisa Monnas offers a masterly evaluation of the 
paintings as source material for  classifying surviving textiles. Dealing
with an 
exceptionally long period, she  considers a large number of examples in
greater 
depth than has ever been  attempted, and gives particular attention to the 
identification of historic  textile types and their weave structure. Monnas 
examines a wide range of  subjects, including silk as a marker of social
status, the 
material possessions  of artists and their ownership of textiles as props,
the 
involvement of painters  in silk design, and the repetition and transfer of 
patterns. She considers the  evidence of paintings not only for the veracity

with which the silks are  depicted but also for their value as a historic
source 
concerning the use of  fabrics. Over a period of two and a half centuries, 
tastes and patterns of  consumption altered, and these changes, which can be

traced through documentary  sources, are reflected in the paintings. The 
conclusion of this impressive  analysis brings the discussion full circle by
looking 
at the reincarnation,  during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries,
of 
silk patterns taken from  late-medieval and renaissance paintings,
reproduced 
as wallpapers or woven as  new fabrics (some of which are still in
production 
today). This important and  desirable book - beautifully illustrated with
many 
unfamiliar paintings and with  surviving fabrics, some of which have never 
been reproduced before - not only  re-evaluates the dating and
identification of 
individual textiles, but also  brings fresh insights into the material
values 
of the artists and their clients.  Its authoritative and original approach
to 
both fabrics and paintings makes it  of inestimable value to historians of 
textiles, art and material culture alike.  ^Available February 2008^. 




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest

products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
_______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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Holiday gifts, hah! I just finished making may daughter's Dickens dress and
hat. She said she wanted to make it herself, but with college, she didn't
have time and so, I was asked to do it----1 week before Fair opening. But I
managed. If you go to Dickens, she's Miss Kate Nickleby, all in black. I'm
rather pleased with the way she looks, if I do say so myself. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:04 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Dear list,
Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll kick
off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
 
I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some very
expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can make
something like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was
in my stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it has
a  printed
design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead didn't  match
color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th trip to
JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough trims in
my stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, solid
white skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt
has three rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has
another  white trim around the edge, and each also has yet another trim
around the  neckline.  
The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The navy
bodice is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
 
After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
 
Ann Wass



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From: "Meredith Moseley-Bennett" <mmbennett@esta.org>
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 14:08:41 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Short Film Movie Shoot
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I am looking for "movie quality" costumes to rent for four short films:
Joan of Arc
Babe Ruth
Thomas Jefferson
Davy Crockett

Does anyone have items I could rent?  Joan and Babe shoot weekend after
next, and Jefferson and Crockett shoot the weekend after that.
Thanks,

Meredith Moseley-Bennett
Certification Coordinator
Entertainment Technician Certification Program-ETCP
875 Sixth Avenue, Suite 1005
NYC, NY 10001
Phone:  212.244.1505
Fax:  212.244.1502
"Take the world as it is, not as it ought to be."


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?
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This fall, I made myself a long [to the ankle] cotton robe to bum around  the 
house in when I don't want to get dressed. I found some great and  
interesting batiks and some wonderfully outrageous African prints so I'm  making 
everybody one. They take about 8 hours to prepare, cut and sew  [one work day I 
guess] if I take my time....not bad. I've got about a dozen to  make all together 
[4 are done] Doing them up right with French seams and,  some that it is 
impossible to match the pattern on patch pockets, get  welt pockets.
 
So everyone gets one of those and I bought them all an iPod Shuffle too....  
and an artsy fartsy 2008 calendar.
 
See....just get everyone the SAME THING! [well, I did pick fabrics with the  
recipients in mind... and the artists on the  calendars.]



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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book on Silk Fabrics in Paintings
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I have had it on order for about a month (Amazon had a very good 
pre-order discount). Though I have not seen it as yet, I have other 
things by Lisa and they are good.

The publisher's page:
http://yalepress.yale.edu/yupbooks/book.asp?isbn=9780300111170

FYI. you may also want to look through their sale.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/26/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 20:17:25 EST
>From: MaddNancy@aol.com
>This was in the latest new book listing from Michael Shamansky, and I would
>like to know if anyone has had a chance to see a copy yet or had heard
>anything  about it (realizing it is not set to come out until February).
>
>Thanks,
>
>Nancy
>
>Catalog Number: 53524
>Title: Merchants, Princes and Painters Silk  Fabrics in Italian and Northern
>Paintings, 1300-1550
>Author: Monnas,  Lisa
>Price: $75.00
>ISBN: 9780300111170

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Here is a message which I am forwarding (with permission) from Sue Fink, 
  a lace maker in New Zealand.  It was originally sent to the list for 
lace makers, (lace@arachne.com).  Hurray for Bjarne!
 From Linda Walton
In cold wet foggy High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [lace] Bjarne Drew
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:54:41 +1300

I am sure that the name Bjarne Drew will mean something to a lot of the
longer standing Arachnids!  Bjarne makes reproduction costumes from the 
17th and 18th century and also the lace to go on them (which was where 
Arachne came in!)  Issue 56 of the Australian magazine Inspirations has 
a lovely article about Bjarne and shows some of his costumes and also a 
picture of him at his pillow.

It was lovely to read the article and realise that though Bjarne has
disappeared from our ken, he is still happily making his costumes.

Sue Fink
In lovely sunny warm Masterton, New Zealand

-- 



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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 10:17:35 +1100
From: Jane Stockton <jane_stockton@webcon.net.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article
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Linda,

Thanks for letting us know. I will have to pick up a copy next time 
I'm at the newsagent. I wonder if Bjarne needs a copy??

Cheers,
Jane


At 09:52 AM 28/11/2007, you wrote:
>Here is a message which I am forwarding (with permission) from Sue 
>Fink,  a lace maker in New Zealand.  It was originally sent to the 
>list for lace makers, (lace@arachne.com).  Hurray for Bjarne!
> From Linda Walton
>In cold wet foggy High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.
>
>-------- Original Message --------
>Subject: [lace] Bjarne Drew
>Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:54:41 +1300
>
>I am sure that the name Bjarne Drew will mean something to a lot of the
>longer standing Arachnids!  Bjarne makes reproduction costumes from 
>the 17th and 18th century and also the lace to go on them (which was 
>where Arachne came in!)  Issue 56 of the Australian magazine 
>Inspirations has a lovely article about Bjarne and shows some of his 
>costumes and also a picture of him at his pillow.
>
>It was lovely to read the article and realise that though Bjarne has
>disappeared from our ken, he is still happily making his costumes.
>
>Sue Fink
>In lovely sunny warm Masterton, New Zealand
>
>--
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

------------------------------------
Jane Stockton - jane_stockton@webcon.net.au
Barony of Mordenvale, Kingdom of Lochac

In Prayse of the Needle - http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/ (personal website)
Historical Needlework Resources - http://medieval.webcon.net.au/ 
(resource website)
The Needles' Excellency - http://laren.blogspot.com/ (blog)

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC 2009 whine...
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 14:55:10 -0800
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On Nov 25, 2007, at 6:00 AM, cahuff wrote:
> So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people,  
> got cool books...)
> and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!!
> on the first weekend in May!!!! WAHHAAAAAAAA!!
> That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend.
> So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard  
> >grumph<
> Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict  
> the next time they plan an event. Please?


So putting on my cranky hat:
Try scheduling an international-scope event. There are no good  
weekends. Our Costume-Con in San Jose (for which we picked dates  
nearly 6 years ago) is booked against the West Kingdom 2008 Spring  
Collegium Occidentalis. No matter how wide you cast your net for a  
conflict-free date, you'll never find one.

Putting on my practical hat:
You can go to Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival any year, if it's in  
your backyard. CC won't be in your backyard again for at least half a  
decade. Go to the event that you'll regret missing for years instead  
of the one that you'll also be able to go to in 2008 and 2010.

andy
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  Totally cool!  Yay. Bjarne!

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Linda Walton
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 3:53 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article

Here is a message which I am forwarding (with permission) from Sue Fink, 
  a lace maker in New Zealand.  It was originally sent to the list for 
lace makers, (lace@arachne.com).  Hurray for Bjarne!
 From Linda Walton
In cold wet foggy High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [lace] Bjarne Drew
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:54:41 +1300

I am sure that the name Bjarne Drew will mean something to a lot of the
longer standing Arachnids!  Bjarne makes reproduction costumes from the 
17th and 18th century and also the lace to go on them (which was where 
Arachne came in!)  Issue 56 of the Australian magazine Inspirations has 
a lovely article about Bjarne and shows some of his costumes and also a 
picture of him at his pillow.

It was lovely to read the article and realise that though Bjarne has
disappeared from our ken, he is still happily making his costumes.

Sue Fink
In lovely sunny warm Masterton, New Zealand

-- 



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20071127225527.VJQH22541.fep23.mail.dk@www1.indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 08:14:39 +0100
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Dear Linda, Jane and Liadain
Thanks for letting me knowing this. Nice that some of my old arachne friends 
noticed it.
But a little note, i dont make lace anymore.
Also Jane! i dont need an extra copy, i had one send for me, when the 
article was published, but thanks for the offer anyway!
This month i also made a projekt for the magazine, a lit for a sewing 
basquet, wich i call Marie Antoinettes Mobcap.
Its a domeshaped lit with embroidered roses and forgetmenots edged with a 
nice cotton lace- hence the name mobcap, because it reminds me a little of a 
mobcap. The magazine wanted me to make some projekts for the readers. A 
purse is in my mind two, when i get more time.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:52 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article


> Here is a message which I am forwarding (with permission) from Sue Fink, a 
> lace maker in New Zealand.  It was originally sent to the list for lace 
> makers, (lace@arachne.com).  Hurray for Bjarne!
> From Linda Walton
> In cold wet foggy High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [lace] Bjarne Drew
> Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:54:41 +1300
>
> I am sure that the name Bjarne Drew will mean something to a lot of the
> longer standing Arachnids!  Bjarne makes reproduction costumes from the 
> 17th and 18th century and also the lace to go on them (which was where 
> Arachne came in!)  Issue 56 of the Australian magazine Inspirations has a 
> lovely article about Bjarne and shows some of his costumes and also a 
> picture of him at his pillow.
>
> It was lovely to read the article and realise that though Bjarne has
> disappeared from our ken, he is still happily making his costumes.
>
> Sue Fink
> In lovely sunny warm Masterton, New Zealand
>
> -- 
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Nov 28 12:23:31 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] The Golden Age of Couture
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Here is some information about a current exhibition.  Even if you can't 
visit in person, the website is interesting.  There is also a free 
pattern to to download, (click on "Create a Couture Inspired Dress"); 
and when you've made it, there's a page to upload a video of it.

Linda Walton (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)


The Golden Age of Couture at the V&A, (Victoria and Albert Museum, 
London), - Until 6 January 2008:-
The Golden Age of Couture is a stunning exhibition featuring work by 
Parisian couturiers such as Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre 
Balmain, and Hubert de Givenchy, together with their London counterparts 
Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. The exhibition looks at the secret 
world of couture, exploring the structure of fashion's grand houses, the 
skill and craftsmanship of the ateliers, and the lifestyle of the chic 
clientele. Illustrated with fabulous period gowns and photographs, it 
shows the process and inspiration behind some of the most glamorous 
styles of all time.

More info:   http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/
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Is there an exhibit catalog?

Thanks.

Fran
Lavolta Press books on historic costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Linda Walton wrote:

> Here is some information about a current exhibition.  Even if you can't 
> visit in person, the website is interesting.  There is also a free 
> pattern to to download, (click on "Create a Couture Inspired Dress"); 
> and when you've made it, there's a page to upload a video of it.
>
<snip>
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article
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  Sounds like great projects - will have to see if my local bookstore =
can
get the magazine!
=20
Liadain


THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 12:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article

Dear Linda, Jane and Liadain
Thanks for letting me knowing this. Nice that some of my old arachne =
friends

noticed it.
But a little note, i dont make lace anymore.
Also Jane! i dont need an extra copy, i had one send for me, when the=20
article was published, but thanks for the offer anyway!
This month i also made a projekt for the magazine, a lit for a sewing=20
basquet, wich i call Marie Antoinettes Mobcap.
Its a domeshaped lit with embroidered roses and forgetmenots edged with =
a=20
nice cotton lace- hence the name mobcap, because it reminds me a little =
of a

mobcap. The magazine wanted me to make some projekts for the readers. A=20
purse is in my mind two, when i get more time.........

Bjarne



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] sewing needles
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Hi.
Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for my =
embroidery any more.
I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads are =
two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.
Does any know where i can get any online please?

Bjarne 
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From: "Brangwyne" <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing needles
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 14:01:21 -0500
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I found this one:

http://www.craftonline.co.uk/83/shop.cfm

Starr

--------------------

Hi.
Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for my 
embroidery any more.
I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads are two 
big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.
Does any know where i can get any online please?

Bjarne
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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At 18:56 28/11/2007, you wrote:
>Hi.
>Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for 
>my embroidery any more.
>I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
>The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads 
>are two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.
>Does any know where i can get any online please?


MacCulloch and Wallis, Kleins, several places on line, all on my links page.

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php

Suzi

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Bjarne,

Here is a shop based in the UK that lists them
http://www.craftonline.co.uk/83/shop.cfm

Beth

At 01:07 PM 11/28/2007, you wrote:
>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 19:56:21 +0100
>From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Subject: [h-cost] sewing needles
>
>Hi.
>Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for 
>my embroidery any more.
>I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
>The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads 
>are two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.
>Does any know where i can get any online please?
>
>Bjarne

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 20:35:52 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
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Stupid me, it was because i misspelled the name, sorry folks!
But could someone tell me wich are smallest, 5/10 - 3/9 or 7?
Usually not attended to the size nr. cause i just chose the smalles i =
could get.
Also heard that you can get extremely fine sharps with the numbers of 12 =
according to Inspirations Magazine issue where i am in, there is an =
article of the Suzhou embroidery tour that the magazine had. They use =
sharps nr 12 and where might i get some of them?
Would it say that a size 8 is finer than a size 7?

Bjarne who just discovered how stupid i really am, not nowing anything =
at all about sewing needles............

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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: CC 2009 whine...
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I've regrettably been out of the Costume Con loop for the past couple
of years precisely because it's been so far away in past years. Having
it in Baltimore is FANTASTIC for me, as it's only a jump up the road
from me!

In other words - great good news! If I decide to do the Wool festival
I can always do a "field trip" from CC....

Allison T.

On Nov 28, 2007 2:07 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 14:55:10 -0800
> From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC 2009 whine...
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <46BFEB39-B96D-445D-ADE7-A764F700E737@bovil.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
> On Nov 25, 2007, at 6:00 AM, cahuff wrote:
> > So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people,
> > got cool books...)
> > and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!!
> > on the first weekend in May!!!! WAHHAAAAAAAA!!
> > That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend.
> > So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard
> > >grumph<
> > Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict
> > the next time they plan an event. Please?
>
>
> So putting on my cranky hat:
> Try scheduling an international-scope event. There are no good
> weekends. Our Costume-Con in San Jose (for which we picked dates
> nearly 6 years ago) is booked against the West Kingdom 2008 Spring
> Collegium Occidentalis. No matter how wide you cast your net for a
> conflict-free date, you'll never find one.
>
> Putting on my practical hat:
> You can go to Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival any year, if it's in
> your backyard. CC won't be in your backyard again for at least half a
> decade. Go to the event that you'll regret missing for years instead
> of the one that you'll also be able to go to in 2008 and 2010.
>
> andy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CC 2009 whine...
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Andy said,
> Putting on my practical hat:
> You can go to Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival any year, if it's in
> your backyard. CC won't be in your backyard again for at least half a
> decade. Go to the event that you'll regret missing for years instead
> of the one that you'll also be able to go to in 2008 and 2010.


     The other perspective — Carol Huff has a fiber-related business and
the Sheep & Wool Festival is not optional.  The practicality works
for lots of other people, but I think Carol is perfectly justified to
whine in this case.  So the people who go to CC can take a side trip,
visit her booth and buy stuff.  :-)
-Carol

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At 19:35 28/11/2007, you wrote:
>Stupid me, it was because i misspelled the name, sorry folks!
>But could someone tell me wich are smallest, 5/10 - 3/9 or 7?
>Usually not attended to the size nr. cause i just chose the smalles 
>i could get.
>Also heard that you can get extremely fine sharps with the numbers 
>of 12 according to Inspirations Magazine issue where i am in, there 
>is an article of the Suzhou embroidery tour that the magazine had. 
>They use sharps nr 12 and where might i get some of them?
>Would it say that a size 8 is finer than a size 7?
>
>Bjarne who just discovered how stupid i really am, not nowing 
>anything at all about sewing needles............

I sew with Millwards needles, and the higher the number the finer the 
needles, so an Embroidery 10, or a Sharp 10 is finer that a 7. You 
can buy complete packs of 10's in most haberdashery shops here. And 
in MacCullochs

http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Category.aspx/HandNeedles

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing needles
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Thanks a lot Suzi,
Mc Culloch and Wallis its going to be, i know these John James needles, also 
those you cant get here anymore, its Prym who has taken over the market.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing needles


> At 18:56 28/11/2007, you wrote:
>>Hi.
>>Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for my 
>>embroidery any more.
>>I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online.
>>The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads are 
>>two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself.
>>Does any know where i can get any online please?
>
>
> MacCulloch and Wallis, Kleins, several places on line, all on my links 
> page.
>
> http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 20:45:16 +0000
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I've been experimenting with fine needles in various sizes from various makers -- the Macculloch page that Suzi posted is mostly John James needles, which are quite nice.  My recent experiments have suggested that the S. Thomas & Sons are a bit "springier", if you like that in a needle. I've never had the opportunity to try the Millward's. Because my eyes are going bad, I have been buying the size 10 and size 12 crewel needles, which are fine and have a long eye that is easier to poke a thread through. Bjarne, if you are seeking small eyes (on your needles) and your *own* eyes are good, go with the plain "sharps" -- 12s are really nice and tiny, and the heads should not stick out. "Quilters" are shorter, if you like a very short needle.  

A thing that drives me nuts about needles is that while a bigger number means a smaller size in general, the series starts over after 12 --  so they get smaller from 1-12, then the numbers start over at 13, which is an *immense* darner and then they go down again (so a number 18 darner is about the size of a number 1 darner; just maddening!) Chenilles and tapestries have immense eyes, start at 13 and get smaller down to 26 or 28 -- but a 26 or 28 chenille is nowhere near as fine as a 12 sharp. There are some interesting pictures of the range of needle sizes within some of the common types here: http://www.colonialneedle.com/html/about-needles.html
The page is called "all about needles" but it actually leaves off some of the things I most want to know, like what it means when a packet says the size is 4/8 or 7/9, or why you might want your needles gold or platinum plated, or how you can tell what length a needle will be. Perhaps someone on the list will enlighten me on those points? ;-)
Best,
Lauren
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 

> At 19:35 28/11/2007, you wrote: 
> >Stupid me, it was because i misspelled the name, sorry folks! 
> >But could someone tell me wich are smallest, 5/10 - 3/9 or 7? 
> >Usually not attended to the size nr. cause i just chose the smalles 
> >i could get. 
> >Also heard that you can get extremely fine sharps with the numbers 
> >of 12 according to Inspirations Magazine issue where i am in, there 
> >is an article of the Suzhou embroidery tour that the magazine had. 
> >They use sharps nr 12 and where might i get some of them? 
> >Would it say that a size 8 is finer than a size 7? 
> > 
> >Bjarne who just discovered how stupid i really am, not nowing 
> >anything at all about sewing needles............ 
> 
> I sew with Millwards needles, and the higher the number the finer the 
> needles, so an Embroidery 10, or a Sharp 10 is finer that a 7. You 
> can buy complete packs of 10's in most haberdashery shops here. And 
> in MacCullochs 
> 
> http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Category.aspx/HandNeedles 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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packet says the size is 4/8 or 7/9,=20

I thought that meant that those sizes were included in an assortment.
Thanks for your wonderful information!

Patty

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For the incogniscenti among us, what exactly is Costume Con? Who sponsors it"  Where is information available?

Thanks,

Jane In NO VA
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:36:37 -0600
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
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 There are some interesting pictures of the range of needle sizes
within some of the common types here:
http://www.colonialneedle.com/html/about-needles.html
> The page is called "all about needles" but it actually leaves off some of the things I most want to know, like what it means when a packet says the size is 4/8 or 7/9, or why you might want your needles gold or platinum plated, or how you can tell what length a needle will be. Perhaps someone on the list will enlighten me on those points? ;-)
> Best,
> Lauren

I was told that the gold plating would keep the finishing from wearing
off the needle.  I didn't find it that helpful.  I just find that no
matter what I wear off the finish when I'm working on a project, I'm
rather obsessive when I'm working which means a lot of hours close
together on the project.

As to the length, there are some stitches that are easier if you have
a smaller needle, while others are better with a larger needle.  In
general I have found that the needle ought to match the size of the
thread/floss/cord/ribbon you are working with.  Larger than your
thread and you  can leave big holes, smaller that your thread and you
fight to get it through.  Some of the "tougher" fabrics to work on -
like velvet or tight weaves, the smaller the diameter the needle the
better.

alex
hope this helps



-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 13:47:22 -0800
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On Nov 28, 2007, at 1:15 PM, Jane Pease wrote:
> For the incogniscenti among us, what exactly is Costume Con? Who  
> sponsors it"  Where is information available?

Costume-Con is the international conference of fantasy, science  
fiction, historical and fashion costumers. It's attended by costume  
hobbyists, professionals and academics.

The Costume-Con history website is at <http://www.costume-con.org/>.  
There you will find documentation and pictures from conferences up to  
Costume-Con 24 in Des Moines.

This spring Costume-Con 25 was held in St. Louis, and the local  
committee persuaded Robin Netherton to present there.

Costume-Con 26 will be held April 25-28, 2008 at the San Jose  
Doubletree in California. Find more information at <http:// 
www.cc26.info/>.

Costume-Con 27 will be held May 1-4, 2009 at the Holiday Inn Select  
Timonium in the Baltimore, MD area. There's a PDF flyer at <http:// 
www.costume-con.com/cc27/cc27flyer2.pdf>.

Costume-Con 28 is scheduled for 2010 at the Hilton Milwaukee City  
Center in Wisconsin. Website at <http://www.cc28.org/>.



andy
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Andy,
are they ever gonna' decide which weekend to hold it?  I couldn't  
find the specific dates listed anywhere....

Suzanne


On Nov 28, 2007, at 3:47 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Costume-Con 28 is scheduled for 2010 at the Hilton Milwaukee City  
> Center in Wisconsin. Website at <http://www.cc28.org/>.
>
>
>
> andy
>

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Does anyone know if Truly Victorian put out a lady's swimsuit pattern? I
thought I'd bought one, but can't find it and am urgently trying to remember
the brand to help me find it in my mountain of patterns.

Many thanks, 

Aylwen


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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:00:33 +1100
Subject: Re: [h-cost] URGENT - swimsuit pattern
From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sorry - I think it was the Mantua Maker pattern.
Off now to find it ......

Cheers, Aylwen


On 29/11/07 3:51 PM, "Aylwen & John Garden" <garden@netspeed.com.au> wrote:

> Does anyone know if Truly Victorian put out a lady's swimsuit pattern? I
> thought I'd bought one, but can't find it and am urgently trying to remember
> the brand to help me find it in my mountain of patterns.
> 
> Many thanks, 
> 
> Aylwen
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] URGENT - swimsuit pattern
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Have you looked at
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/swimwear_1.htm
There are two pages of Victoria Swimsuits on there.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen & John Garden
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 11:01 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] URGENT - swimsuit pattern

Sorry - I think it was the Mantua Maker pattern.
Off now to find it ......

Cheers, Aylwen


On 29/11/07 3:51 PM, "Aylwen & John Garden" <garden@netspeed.com.au> wrote:

> Does anyone know if Truly Victorian put out a lady's swimsuit pattern? I
> thought I'd bought one, but can't find it and am urgently trying to
remember
> the brand to help me find it in my mountain of patterns.
> 
> Many thanks, 
> 
> Aylwen
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Andy wrote:
 > > Costume-Con 28 is scheduled for 2010 at the Hilton Milwaukee City > > =
Center in Wisconsin. Website at http://www.cc28.org/.
=20
Suzanne asked:
> are they ever gonna' decide which weekend to hold it? I couldn't > find t=
he specific dates listed anywhere....
It's the weekend falling over Saturday, May 8, 2010. I know this only becau=
se Henry Osier, who is planning the con, asked me to speak there, and I nee=
ded to know the date to make sure it wouldn't conflict with the Medieval Co=
ngress at Kalamazoo. (It's the week before the Congress that year, which wi=
ll mean a whole lot of driving and not a lot of sleep for me in that two-we=
ek period!)
=20
When I couldn't find the date on the CC28 website, I pointed out to Henry t=
hat it might be a wise idea to add it. That was months ago, and it doesn't =
appear that the site has been updated, despite what I know were his best in=
tentions. Henry has a livejournal where he's reporting progress on con plan=
s, but the date isn't there either! Perhaps if enough people complain, he c=
an get his web person on the ball.
=20
--Robin
=20
=20
=20
_________________________________________________________________
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i=92m Init=
iative now.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=3DTAGLM=
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:36:37 -0600
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:
<870801590711281336t29f0fa4x5e03ae5567a80a7d@mail.gmail.com>
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 There are some interesting pictures of the range of needle sizes
within some of the common types here:
http://www.colonialneedle.com/html/about-needles.html
> The page is called "all about needles" but it actually leaves off some of 
> the things I most want to know, like what it means when a packet says the 
> size is 4/8 or 7/9, or why you might want your needles gold or platinum 
> plated, or how you can tell what length a needle will be. Perhaps someone 
> on the list will enlighten me on those points? ;-)
> Best,
> Lauren

>I was told that the gold plating would keep the finishing from wearing
>off the needle.  I didn't find it that helpful.  I just find that no
>matter what I wear off the finish when I'm working on a project, I'm
>rather obsessive when I'm working which means a lot of hours close
>together on the project.

It also probably makes the needle smoother (you sometimes see them
with just gold around the eye) which helps to stop the thread from
snagging or fraying. This is probably more important if you're using silk
thread than anything else.

>As to the length, there are some stitches that are easier if you have
>a smaller needle, while others are better with a larger needle.  In
>general I have found that the needle ought to match the size of the
>thread/floss/cord/ribbon you are working with.  Larger than your
>thread and you  can leave big holes, smaller that your thread and you
>fight to get it through.  Some of the "tougher" fabrics to work on -
>like velvet or tight weaves, the smaller the diameter the needle the
>better.
Also you can sew more quickly with a small needle (presumably the in
and out action is quicker). When I first started sewing I read that
tailors preferred to use sharps (ie small needles) and I always assumed
that this was why.

Claire 

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I find that the gold needles pass through the fabric just a tiny bit 
easier.  I'm mostly using tapestry needles on aida cloth.  I can see the 
gold ones better, too.  That's probably more a function of the colors of 
the fabric (almost always white), and the chair & the carpeting, which 
are pretty dark!  I find a dropped needle quicker when it is gold.  I 
have some platinum needles, but haven't noticed that they handle 
differently than plain ones.

Gold & platinum coatings might be useful in really damp or salty-aired 
locations, where quick rusting is a problem.

Mary Piero Carey
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 06:42:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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COSTUME-CON is a convention dedicated to the art and
craft of costuming. The convention has its roots in
science fiction and fantasy conventions and historic
re-enactment type events, but all forms of costuming
are welcome. Costume-Con is a "travelling"
national-level convention, and is in a different city
and run by a different committee each year. 

http://www.costume-con.com/info.html

Kenet Muir, Jax, FL

--- Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:

> For the incogniscenti among us, what exactly is
> Costume Con? Who sponsors it"  Where is information
> available?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jane In NO VA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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In a message dated 29/11/2007 19:01:17 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Also you  can sew more quickly with a small needle (presumably the in
and out action  is quicker). When I first started sewing I read that
tailors preferred to  use sharps (ie small needles) and I always assumed
that this was  why.

Claire 


That's right.
 
I was trained to use betweens for most sewing - they're shorter than sharps  
and tend to be a bit stronger.
 
Being honest, though, I tend to use larger needles if I'm doing lots of  
handstitching (as in 16 hours or so a day), cos it stops my hands  cramping.

 



   
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 14:39:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Claire Clarke <angharad@adam.com.au> wrote:

> > it actually leaves off some of the things I most
> > want to know, like why you might want your
> > needles gold or platinum plated,
> > Lauren
> 
> >I was told that the gold plating would keep the
> > finishing from wearing off the needle.  I didn't
> > find it that helpful.  I just find that no matter
> > what I wear off the finish when I'm working
> > on a project
> 
> It also probably makes the needle smoother (you
> sometimes see them
> with just gold around the eye) which helps to stop
> the thread from
> snagging or fraying. 
> 
> Claire 

I corode nickel-plated needles, just the way my skin
chemistry works, so I end up with black needles.  
My gold-plated needles are still yellow, and the
platinum-plating is still white.

They'll still be subject to ordinary friction and
wear, so if you wear out regular needles, you'll also
wear out the fancy plated needles.

Ann in CT


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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: "betweens" (was RE: [h-cost] sewing needles
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:16:03 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Nov 29, 2007, at 12:09 PM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> I was trained to use betweens for most sewing - they're shorter  
> than sharps
> and tend to be a bit stronger.

I'll admit that I do very little hand sewing, but...

I'm completely on-board with betweens. They're great for doing  
running stitch; since they're shorter there's less drag from the  
needle. I've been working my way through a big pack of vintage  
betweens with flat-ground eyes (much like suture needle eyes) and  
I'll be very disappointed when I get to the last one and have to  
start using new ones.

andy
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Subject: [h-cost] dying red to get "russet"
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Hello!

Coming out of the lurking woodwork to ask a question about dyeing. I've done a little dying before, but don't claim to have any sort of clue!

I have a piece of 100% cotton chamois flannel (which, by the way, is lovely for faking the look of some wools) and it's a slightly pale red ("barn red" according to the label). I really want a more russet red, if that's the right name, sort of a more orangey, browny, warm, deep shade. Think "fall colors" not "Christmas." So, what color dye or dyes should I use to turn my pale red to this color? Brown? Orange? More red? An art store in my area carries Procion/Jacquard dyes, so that's probably what I'll be using. I'm not fixated on a specific color, I just want something different than what I've got!

Thanks in advance, and apologies if I don't reply, I'm creeping back into the woodwork now. :)



Claudine

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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 22:48:28 -0500
From: Ailith  <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
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I corrode nickel-plated needles as well - sharps, betweens, or tapestry needles. I buy gold plated needles whenever I find them. I got a bunch of them last Christmas in a set from Jo-Ann's. There was a pair of stork scissors, a tape measure, a gold plated thimble, and gold plated needles. I've got enough to last me for several years. :-)

Kate
---- Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote: 

> I corode nickel-plated needles, just the way my skin
> chemistry works, so I end up with black needles.  
> My gold-plated needles are still yellow, and the
> platinum-plating is still white.
> 
> They'll still be subject to ordinary friction and
> wear, so if you wear out regular needles, you'll also
> wear out the fancy plated needles.
> 
> Ann in CT
> 
> 
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At 03:47 PM 11/28/2007, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>      The other perspective =97 Carol Huff has a fiber-related business and
>the Sheep & Wool Festival is not optional.  The practicality works
>for lots of other people, but I think Carol is perfectly justified to
>whine in this case.  So the people who go to CC can take a side trip,
>visit her booth and buy stuff.  :-)

Carol certainly has a legitimate conflict that is=20
not easily resolved. However, Andy, if a bit=20
grumpy today, is also correct. It is nearly=20
impossible to schedule these events, regardless=20
of their purpose, without conflicting with=20
something. Keep in mind that other events are not=20
the only consideration. Also in the mix are the=20
available venues and their costs. Each event=20
requires certain types of facilities.=20
Costume-Cons, for example, are space hogs. We=20
need a certain number and type of rooms as well=20
as a ball room amenable to the stage events. In=20
conjunction with that we have to negotiate a=20
weekend that where the prices quoted by the=20
facility are amenable to our pricing structure.

I gather that Carol's event is an annual event=20
that likely uses the same facility year after=20
year and employs the same organizing=20
committee.  (correct me if that assumption is=20
incorrect). It therefore has a "in" with its=20
facility. The facility can count on an event=20
which will bring it a certain amount of revenue=20
on a given weekend. It is therefore likely to be=20
willing to offer price concessions and other incentives.

Costume-Con changes cities each year. It is also=20
run by different and unique committees each year.=20
(CC 24 and 25 were unique and unprecedented with=20
me as co-chair in both years. ) Each committee=20
has to negotiate from a position of=20
non-repetitiveness with the facilities. (And=20
possibly only one or two which actually have the=20
amenities we require.) So it is not unusual to=20
have the dates "forced" on us by the available=20
facilities as well as potential conflicts.

Pierre

>-Carol

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda =20


_______________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
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At 03:47 PM 11/28/2007, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>      The other perspective =97 Carol Huff has a fiber-related business and
>the Sheep & Wool Festival is not optional.  The practicality works
>for lots of other people, but I think Carol is perfectly justified to
>whine in this case.  So the people who go to CC can take a side trip,
>visit her booth and buy stuff.  :-)

Carol certainly has a legitimate conflict that is=20
not easily resolved. However, Andy, if a bit=20
grumpy today, is also correct. It is nearly=20
impossible to schedule these events, regardless=20
of their purpose, without conflicting with=20
something. Keep in mind that other events are not=20
the only consideration. Also in the mix are the=20
available venues and their costs. Each event=20
requires certain types of facilities.=20
Costume-Cons, for example, are space hogs. We=20
need a certain number and type of rooms as well=20
as a ball room amenable to the stage events. In=20
conjunction with that we have to negotiate a=20
weekend that where the prices quoted by the=20
facility are amenable to our pricing structure.

I gather that Carol's event is an annual event=20
that likely uses the same facility year after=20
year and employs the same organizing=20
committee.  (correct me if that assumption is=20
incorrect). It therefore has a "in" with its=20
facility. The facility can count on an event=20
which will bring it a certain amount of revenue=20
on a given weekend. It is therefore likely to be=20
willing to offer price concessions and other incentives.

Costume-Con changes cities each year. It is also=20
run by different and unique committees each year.=20
(CC 24 and 25 were unique and unprecedented with=20
me as co-chair in both years. ) Each committee=20
has to negotiate from a position of=20
non-repetitiveness with the facilities. (And=20
possibly only one or two which actually have the=20
amenities we require.) So it is not unusual to=20
have the dates "forced" on us by the available=20
facilities as well as potential conflicts.

Pierre

>-Carol

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda =20


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <61449.49770.qm@web53610.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dying red to get "russet"
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 01:34:38 -0600
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If you want a more muted color but one that's not much darker, you might 
just add in either a tan, camel, or rust colored dye.

If you want something darker and more vibrant, there are a couple of 
different ways to do it.  One, if you're lucky, is to find a dye that's 
almost exactly the color you want, except a bit too warm, and overdye it in 
that (if you look at the dye and think, "Oh, that's a bit too 
yellow-orangy", or "a bit too brown" it's probably about right).  The other 
is to mix together red, a tad of orange, and brown, and use that to overdye; 
if you want a dark but still faded and "natural" looking color, use a very 
dark brown such as sepia (but use it very sparingly or take the fabric out 
of the dye a bit early); if you want a richer, more intense color, use a 
lighter brown such as chocolate, and leave your fabric in the dye longer for 
a deeper color.

-E House

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Subject: *****SPAM***** Re: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist
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I don't know what headword you would use for this (the Tudor Tailor calls it 
a yard cloth, the Medieval Tailor's Assistant calls it a kerchief I suspect 
Yard Cloth would be the more period term) but the many and varied uses for a 
simple rectangular/square piece of linen would be something I'd like to see.

My brain is fried and that's all I can think of that hasn't been covered 
elsewhere.
This topic springs to mind because I am heavily involved in recruiting new 
people to the SCA who have never sewn a button before, many people think 
hats when you mention headwear and they therefore believe it's too hard but 
when I give them a piece of white cotton (my budget doesn't extend to giving 
away linen, yet) and show them how to use it (and not just for headwear, 
it's an apron and a partlet and an emergency dishcloth among other uses) I 
have been told on one occasion that it is the most useful gift anyone has 
ever given them.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ 

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles
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On the subject of needles, my biggest problem is that I seem to have them 
break a lot.  For some of them, I chalk this up to their being 'vintage' 
steel.  About 5 years ago, I managed to get one of these in my foot; it 
broke off eye- forward which was lodged in my right big toe...and not 
visable. After x-ray, in laproscoptic surgery the steel broke millimeter by 
mill until it was all out. Stitches came out as planned, and then 36 hrs 
later I was admitted to the hospital ...where they kept me for 8 days.  It 
was over seven months before I could wear a proper shoe!  That needle was of 
WW2 vintage.  I have stopped picking up odds and ends of old sewing  boxes 
except for samples in my vintage/ antique sewing tools.

I have tried some of the name brands that have been mentioned in this 
conversation and some of these also seem to break more often than usual 
expectation. I have been blameing  it on the quality of steel being used. 
This is certainly true if one buys look-alikes. Smaller needles both in 
length and guage do seem a little more reliable for my present projects.

kathleen

 Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp sewing needles


>I corrode nickel-plated needles as well - sharps, betweens, or tapestry 
>needles. I buy gold plated needles whenever I find them. I got a bunch of 
>them last Christmas in a set from Jo-Ann's. There was a pair of stork 
>scissors, a tape measure, a gold plated thimble, and gold plated needles. 
>I've got enough to last me for several years. :-)
>
> Kate
> ---- Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I corode nickel-plated needles, just the way my skin
>> chemistry works, so I end up with black needles.
>> My gold-plated needles are still yellow, and the
>> platinum-plating is still white.
>>
>> They'll still be subject to ordinary friction and
>> wear, so if you wear out regular needles, you'll also
>> wear out the fancy plated needles.
>>
>> Ann in CT
>>
>>
>> 
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I just received a Deal-of-the-day email from Fabric.com with a notice 
about a Dupioni Silk promotion.  Here's the link to the sale pages: 
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-dupioni-silk-fabric-promotionally-priced-dupioni-silk-fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-11/26/07%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20day-_-Friday


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]sewing needle breakage
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 17:01:13 +0000
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Hi,
I don't know what the "usual expectation" is -- not being snarky, I just often am puzzled by how our ancestors managed when needles were scarce and expensive, given that they *do* bend and break. My breakage problems tend to have one of about three sources: 1) I am trying to use some coarse "authentic" thread (hemp, linen, wool) pulled out of my weaving supplies that is just a bit too big for the needle, so the doubled bit has trouble following the needle through the fabric and eventually the strain pulls the eye off; 2) I am using a fine needle on a fairly heavy fabric, and I get to bending it when trying to make fine stitches; 3) I am using a fine needle on many layers of fabric, which seems to aggravate both 1) and 2).  So I am always quite happy to blame myself for the breakage, rather than the needles! But the nicer they are the more I burn through; sometimes I get out my 70s-era giant steel needles, which  none of my costumer friends find fit for anything but basting, !
 and do 
some unacceptably coarse seams just to deal with the frustration. I suppose I *could* resort to using modern threads -- so fine! so smooth! -- but that would be cheating! ;-)
Lauren
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> 

> On the subject of needles, my biggest problem is that I seem to have them 
> break a lot. 
<snip snip>
> 
> I have tried some of the name brands that have been mentioned in this 
> conversation and some of these also seem to break more often than usual 
> expectation. I
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen sale (was Dupioni Silk on Sale at Fabric.com
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Joan Jurancich wrote:
> I just received a Deal-of-the-day email from Fabric.com with a notice 
> about a Dupioni Silk promotion.  Here's the link to the sale pages: 
> http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-dupioni-silk-fabric-promotionally-priced-dupioni-silk-fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-11/26/07%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20day-_-Friday 
> 
> 


If you want a real STEAL on fabric, check out the $3.18  90" wide linen 
they have:

http://www.fabric.com/sew-crazy-sale-up-to-65-off-extra-wide-linen-fabric.aspx




Dawn

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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 16:48:29 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]sewing needle breakage
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I use milliners' straws sizes 8, 9, or 10 depending on what I'm sewing, and
haven't broken a needle since I first started using them. They are thin with
long eyes so they're easy to thread and they are bendable, just right when
you're working with buckram or something that won't move the way you want it
to. (Some needles I bend on purpose and some just bow slightly as I
use them.) They are longer than the shorter needles, but I'm sewing for
accuracy not speed and I don't care how long hand sewing takes me because
most of my sewing is by machine. I don't quilt and haven't gotten that
wonderful rocking running stitch I've seen others use. Maybe it's me, maybe
the needles, but for my sewing it doesn't much matter.

If you find you're breaking needles, try a couple milliners' needles and see
if they solve your problem. I swear by mine. John James makes a good
milliners' straw; you can pick them up at Lacis, Hedgehog, lots of places
on-line. I purchased several packages a few years ago from a needle museum
in England.

LynnD


On 11/30/07, lauren.walker@comcast.net <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I don't know what the "usual expectation" is -- not being snarky, I just
> often am puzzled by how our ancestors managed when needles were scarce and
> expensive, given that they *do* bend and break. My breakage problems tend to
> have one of about three sources: 1) I am trying to use some coarse
> "authentic" thread (hemp, linen, wool) pulled out of my weaving supplies
> that is just a bit too big for the needle, so the doubled bit has trouble
> following the needle through the fabric and eventually the strain pulls the
> eye off; 2) I am using a fine needle on a fairly heavy fabric, and I get to
> bending it when trying to make fine stitches; 3) I am using a fine needle on
> many layers of fabric, which seems to aggravate both 1) and 2).  So I am
> always quite happy to blame myself for the breakage, rather than the
> needles! But the nicer they are the more I burn through; sometimes I get out
> my 70s-era giant steel needles, which  none of my costumer friends find fit
> for anything but basting, !
> and do
> some unacceptably coarse seams just to deal with the frustration. I
> suppose I *could* resort to using modern threads -- so fine! so smooth! --
> but that would be cheating! ;-)
> Lauren
> http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
>
> > On the subject of needles, my biggest problem is that I seem to have
> them
> > break a lot.
> <snip snip>
> >
> > I have tried some of the name brands that have been mentioned in this
> > conversation and some of these also seem to break more often than usual
> > expectation. I
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]sewing needle breakage
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On Nov 30, 2007 11:01 AM,  <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi,
> I don't know what the "usual expectation" is -- not being snarky, I just often am puzzled by how our ancestors managed when needles were scarce and expensive, given that they *do* bend and break.



See, I wear the coating off as mentioned earlier, but I rarely break
hand sewing needles.  usually that happens when trying to pull a
needle threaded with a too large thread, I think.  I tend to maintain
a hold on my needles that is rather light.  If I get a twist in my
thread that brings the arm stretch up shorter than what I expect the
needle is usually out of my hand.

Then again, I prefer embroidery, usually styles that I can use
tapestry needles so I don't poke my fingers.

alex
-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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