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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 21:32:38 +1030
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Subject: [h-cost] nice hems
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So I've finally decided I need to do something about my appalling hems.
I'm talking about getting them level, not actually sewing them. =
Especially
on dresses with large volumes of skirt (I'm rather fond of large volumes =
of
skirt) that are floor length or longer. For instance, houppelandes or=20
cotehardies with 6m or more hems.

My dress dummy has a hem marker thingy, but it is not wide enough
for such skirts. Mostly I try to find the shortest seam and trim round =
in=20
line with that, which doesn't always work very well. Last time, with a =
kirtle
with a 7m hem I tried hanging it up on a coathanger in a doorway, but =
the skirt
basically just fell into a set of narrow folds, which still made it very =
difficult to
judge what was level with what.

There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought =
of, but=20
do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?

Claire/Angharad



 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems
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On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 12:02:38 +0100, Claire Clarke <angharad@adam.com.au>  
wrote:
> There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought  
> of, but
> do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?

this is what I do with floorlenght or longer medieval dresses/houppelandes;
put the garment on the floor folded in half (sideways). this gives you an  
idea of the curve from front to back. most of the floor lenght or longer  
garments needs more lenght at the back than at the front, and needs to be  
of a comfortable lenght at the front. ideally you should have a sloping  
curve from center front to center back. I tend to go with 10cm/2 inches  
longer at the back for dresses without trains. this is too long for  
somebody without a butt btw.
;-)

get a tailors chalk and draw the curve you want to test, put on garment to  
see if this will work. readjust if necessary (most people are a little  
loopsided) and gently start trimming. trim 2-3 times (a little at a time)  
instead of once if in doubt.

Good luck !

Gunvor
-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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I put my dress form on a stool, and mark the hem as if the dress form were 
a person wearing the outfit.  I mark this height by using a solid ruler 
and measuring from the floor to my desired level. The longer the hem, the 
closer to the floor I declare to be "the level" (remembering that there's 
a stool there to make the whole thing longer then floor length.

Good luck!
        -sunny

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<There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of,
but
<do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?

The simplest thing I have found to do:

1.  Get a chalk skirt marker (a tall plastic rod with a chalk marker
attached, usually with a bulb for blowing a chalk mark).  I believe the most
popular maker these days is Dritz and they are not expensive.

2.  Stand on a settee or box so that the skirt hangs free all the way
around; make sure you are wearing any proper undergarments and proper shoes.

3.  Have a friend corroborate with you where you'd like the hem to be, then
while you stand up straight (at a natural stance, of course) have your
friend go all the way around you and mark the hem with the chalk marker.

This will work even if your hems are beyond floor level.  If you are dealing
with a train, then mark the skirt the correct length for walking at the
front and sides.  Figure out what length you'd like the train to be (and the
angle you'd like it to achieve), and mark it at your pleasure while it is
off your body.

This method works very well no matter what the circumference; I have
marked huge ball gown hems this way -- you have to move the fabric about to
make sure you get enough marks, but they always come out beautifully.

Richard in MI
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Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 18:35:03 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems
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At 11:02 01/02/2008, you wrote:
>So I've finally decided I need to do something about my appalling hems.
>I'm talking about getting them level, not actually sewing them. Especially
>on dresses with large volumes of skirt (I'm rather fond of large volumes of
>skirt) that are floor length or longer. For instance, houppelandes or
>cotehardies with 6m or more hems.
>
>My dress dummy has a hem marker thingy, but it is not wide enough
>for such skirts. Mostly I try to find the shortest seam and trim round in
>line with that, which doesn't always work very well. Last time, with a kirtle
>with a 7m hem I tried hanging it up on a coathanger in a doorway, 
>but the skirt
>basically just fell into a set of narrow folds, which still made it 
>very difficult to
>judge what was level with what.
>
>There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't 
>thought of, but
>do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?
>
>Claire/Angharad




>Have you tried finishing the hem then levelling the skirt from the top/waist?

>When I levelled the 8 yard hem of my houppelande, which is slightly 
>longer than floor at the front, and trained at the back, I didn't 
>worry about it being level, except at the seams, as no-one is going 
>to go round that with a tape measure to check it.


Suzi



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Claire Clarke wrote:
>
> There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of, but 
> do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?
>
>   

Get a helper.  I have a sewing buddy and we take turns crawling around 
on the floor for each other when we need gowns hemmed.




Dawn

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems
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I put my gown on and see where the skirt is touching the floor and put
a pin there.  If I need to I'll step on it to create a fold so when I
bend over to pin I know where the pin goes.  Then I straighten and
check that the pin is in the place that I want it to be.  I keep doing
that until I have the whole of the hem marked.  This way if you need
extra in the back or front, depending on where your curves are, this
is automatically determined.

alex

On Feb 1, 2008 5:02 AM, Claire Clarke <angharad@adam.com.au> wrote:
> So I've finally decided I need to do something about my appalling hems.
> I'm talking about getting them level, not actually sewing them. Especially
> on dresses with large volumes of skirt (I'm rather fond of large volumes of
> skirt) that are floor length or longer. For instance, houppelandes or
> cotehardies with 6m or more hems.
>

-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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An exhibit of "wearable technology," at the Boston Museum of Science.

http://www.mos.org/events_activities/lectures&d=2091

http://seamless.sigtronica.org/

Which has a link to their press release.

http://www.news.com/2300-1008_3-6031047-1.html

Photo gallery.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 17:30:11 -0600
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My method developed from a blend of laziness and perfectionism, and the lack 
of a sewing helper.  I put the dress on (inside out, if I plan for it to be 
unwashable).  Then I grab a chalk marker or colored pencil, and stand beside 
my kitchen counter.

My kitchen counter happens to be just the right height--about an inch below 
the widest part of my hips--but any flat surface that's at the right height 
and wide enough to rest the chalk marker on would work just fine.  You might 
consider piling books on the edge of a table or desk until it's the right 
height, if you're not so lucky with your kitchen counter.  Your surface 
needs to be high up enough that there are few folds in the skirt where 
you're marking, but low enough so that you're just barely past the widest 
part of your lower half, and your hips and rear have already had whatever 
effect they're going to have on the placement of the hem.

Standing beside my surface, I press the marker down on it, point out, with 
the hand opposite the side I'm about to mark.  For example, if I'm marking 
my left side, I use my right hand to hold the marker in place.  Then, 
standing as straight as possible, and using my other hand (in this example, 
the left hand) to make sure that as much of the fabric as possible comes 
into contact with the marker, I rotate slowly; the marker marks the fabric 
as I go.  (It's ok to miss an inch or two, here and there, with your marks; 
you can generally figure out later where the curve should go based on what 
is marked.)  If you're generally symmetrical, you can get away with marking 
only one side; personally, even though I am symmetrical when it comes to 
length I like to mark both sides and average out the curves, just to make 
sure the mark is accurate and I didn't twitch at the wrong moment.

Once the curve is marked, I measure the distance from the surface to the 
floor.  Ok, I don't, because I've got it memorized: 36" exactly. (Why yes, 
it is hard for me to buy pants.) That means that if I want to have a 
floor-length hem, I need to measure down exactly 36" inches from the curve I 
just marked, plus seam allowance.  Whatever your surface-to-floor distance 
is, use it to figure out how much you need to add to the curve to reach your 
desired length + seam allowance.

Take off your dress, and lay it flat on the floor, with a fold from the top 
of the front to the bottom at one end, and the back at the other.  The 
bodice and sleeve portion should be all bunched up at the top of what will 
look vaguely like a triangle.  Lock up your cats, and smooth the gown out 
all nice and tidy, with the current hem edges matched together as perfectly 
as possible.  Pin the current hem edges together every foot or so, so that 
when you cut the new hem you can be sure that you're cutting the same amount 
off of each side.  (Unless you're asymmetrical and had to mark each side 
separately; in that case you don't need to mess with pinning.  Just be sure 
to mark the new hem as below on both sides!)

Get a yardstick, or two if you are planning on a longer-than-floor length. 
(If two, go ahead and tape them together to the correct length; it'll save 
headaches.)  Then, ignoring where your seams are, place the yardstick at a 
90 degree angle to your marked curve.  The easiest way to do this is to line 
up the top edge of your yardstick with the marks.  Then, at your desired 
length, make a mark on EACH side of the yardstick.  Move your yardstick an 
inch or two further along your marked curve, remembering to readjust it so 
that it's at that 90 degree angle and the top edge matches the curve, and 
mark again.  This should place your next set of hem marks several inches 
from your first set--far enough that you don't have to spend all day 
marking, but close enough that you can easily draw in a curve.  Continue all 
the way around, and then go back and join up your hem marks in a smooth 
curve.  If you're particularly nervous, you can unpin the hem, try the gown 
on to see if your new hem marks are satisfactory, and then go back through 
the smoothing/pinning process again before you cut your new hem line, but 
personally I'm far too lazy for that.

If you have an especially wide skirt or are trying for an especially tough 
hem length (like exactly floor-length all the way around) it may help to 
make preliminary marks on your curve mark, dividing it up into equal 
sections--say, front, front-side, side, side-back, back. Then, measure the 
length of the front, side, and back first, making sure that the side hem 
measurement mark is exactly halfway between the front & back hem marks. 
Then, you can mark the hem halfway between the front and the side, then 
halfway between the front and the front-side, and so on, using your 
preliminary marks on the curve to help.  This is the method I use 95% of the 
time, but then I have a very vocal inner Adrian Monk.

If you plan on having a train, figure out your desired length at the front, 
the sides, and the back.  Write this down somewhere.  Using that 
information, figure out the length of several landmarks in between the front 
and the back.  For example, let's say I want a train of 16" in the back, 
with 8" on each side to give it a smooth curve.  My length from the mark to 
the front is 36"; my length from the mark to halfway between the front and 
the side is 40"; my length from the mark to the side is 44"; my length from 
the mark to halfway between the side and the back is 48"; my length from the 
mark to the back is 50".  If I need more than just those measurements to 
figure out the curve of the hem, I can measure halfway in between the front 
and the front-side, and add in a length of 38" (halfway between my front 
length of 36" and my front-side length of 40"), and so on all the way around 
the hem.

(Note--with trains, I personally prefer to wait until I'm a bit closer to 
the sides before adding in any extra length, because if I'm planning on a 
long train, the front hem of my garment could easily wind up with a 
frowny-face sort of curve.  I generally keep the front at a constant length 
until I'm at the front-side portion, then I start gradually adding in the 
length.)

Though I do occasionally hem otherwise finished dresses this way, most of 
the time I actually wind up marking the hem-length on my fitting muslin once 
I'm happy with the fit.  Since my fitting muslin is generally upper-thigh 
length, this tends to work out beautifully.  By figuring out my hem before I 
cut out my fabric, I can use a thriftier & more efficient fabric layout, 
which is way more of a priority for me than it probably should be.  Also, if 
I'm only marking the fitting muslin, I can use a Sharpie marker for the 
marking, which is a lot easier than trying to get the chalk to make enough 
of an impression.

-E House

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From: Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems
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On 01 Feb 2008, Dawn wrote:

> Claire Clarke wrote:
> >
> >There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of, 
> >but do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?
> >
> >  
> 
> Get a helper.  I have a sewing buddy and we take turns crawling around 
> on the floor for each other when we need gowns hemmed.

I second that.  Also note that you don't need to mark the hem at the
exact place you want the hem to be.  You can mark where the garment hits
the floor, or, what I find easier, about 12.5 inches (one ruler length)
above the floor.  This gives you a line that will be horizontal when the
garment is worn, so you can add or subtract from that to get the length
you really want.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 16:03:23 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 39
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Hi Richard--
What a great idea! Thanks!
Monica (Catriona)


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Richard Harper
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 2:28 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 39


<There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of,
but
<do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?

The simplest thing I have found to do:

1.  Get a chalk skirt marker (a tall plastic rod with a chalk marker
attached, usually with a bulb for blowing a chalk mark).  I believe the most
popular maker these days is Dritz and they are not expensive.

2.  Stand on a settee or box so that the skirt hangs free all the way
around; make sure you are wearing any proper undergarments and proper shoes.

3.  Have a friend corroborate with you where you'd like the hem to be, then
while you stand up straight (at a natural stance, of course) have your
friend go all the way around you and mark the hem with the chalk marker.

This will work even if your hems are beyond floor level.  If you are dealing
with a train, then mark the skirt the correct length for walking at the
front and sides.  Figure out what length you'd like the train to be (and the
angle you'd like it to achieve), and mark it at your pleasure while it is
off your body.

This method works very well no matter what the circumference; I have
marked huge ball gown hems this way -- you have to move the fabric about to
make sure you get enough marks, but they always come out beautifully.

Richard in MI
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Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 13:29:05 +1000
From: "S Young" <sid.young@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computational Couture
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Hi Fran,


I had a look at you web site and am interested in some of the books, do you
take paypal?

Sidney


>
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
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No, just checks and money orders.  All the book pages link to an order 
form you can print out.

Thanks for your interest,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

S Young wrote:
> Hi Fran,
> 
> 
> I had a look at you web site and am interested in some of the books, do you
> take paypal?
> 
> Sidney
> 
> 
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002401c864c1$f5440300$6501a8c0@GilgameshII>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 22:49:03 -0600
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Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk 
Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone now 
and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
Margaret 

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We use the chalk-skirt-marker-and-box method also.  Our box is one of 
those Rubbermaid plastic steps - cheap, sturdy, non-skid, and small 
enough to not interfere with the hems of most skirts.  It's also very 
flat on top - important if you're wearing odd shoes (which for me is 
any heel over 1").

Sandy

At 01:27 PM 2/1/2008, you wrote:
><There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of,
>but do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?
>
>The simplest thing I have found to do:
>
>1.  Get a chalk skirt marker (a tall plastic rod with a chalk marker 
>attached, usually with a bulb for blowing a chalk mark).  I believe 
>the most popular maker these days is Dritz and they are not expensive.
>
>2.  Stand on a settee or box so that the skirt hangs free all the 
>way around; make sure you are wearing any proper undergarments and 
>proper shoes.
>
>3.  Have a friend corroborate with you where you'd like the hem to 
>be, then while you stand up straight (at a natural stance, of 
>course) have your friend go all the way around you and mark the hem 
>with the chalk marker.
>
>This will work even if your hems are beyond floor level.  If you are 
>dealing with a train, then mark the skirt the correct length for 
>walking at the front and sides.  Figure out what length you'd like 
>the train to be (and the angle you'd like it to achieve), and mark 
>it at your pleasure while it is off your body.
>
>This method works very well no matter what the circumference; I have
>marked huge ball gown hems this way -- you have to move the fabric about to
>make sure you get enough marks, but they always come out beautifully.
>
>Richard in MI

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hem marking
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Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> We use the chalk-skirt-marker-and-box method also.  

My method is similar, but even lower-tech. I stand on a phone book. My 
choice of book depends on whether I want a hem that brushes the floor or 
comes a little higher or lower. For instance, if I want a hem that just 
touches the floor, I stand on a book that is about the width of the hem 
allowance. I then get a husband or friend to scoot around me marking the 
point where the skirt hits the ground. The hard floor makes a nice firm 
backing to the chalk as you mark.

You do need to make sure the skirt is falling straight down to the point 
being marked, and move the excess width of skirt aside as needed as you 
work your way around the person.

Then proceed as someone else explained -- take off the dress, and fold 
along the center front line and center back line with the skirt lying 
flat and the two sides perfectly matched up. At that point I pin 
through both layers, along the line of my chalk marks visible on the 
upper side. I flip the whole thing over, and I can see whether the lines 
match by comparing the chalk marks on the other side to the line of pins 
showing through. I can average the two lines by eye as I cut a smooth 
line from center front to center back.

If I want a train, I add the right amount to the back and taper the line 
out starting at the side front.

--Robin
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Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 20:33:52 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hem marking
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You can also put your hoop or farthingale on the hoop, and place the gown
over the top.
Aylwen

On Feb 2, 2008 4:24 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
wrote:

> We use the chalk-skirt-marker-and-box method also.  Our box is one of
> those Rubbermaid plastic steps - cheap, sturdy, non-skid, and small
> enough to not interfere with the hems of most skirts.  It's also very
> flat on top - important if you're wearing odd shoes (which for me is
> any heel over 1").
>
> Sandy
>
> At 01:27 PM 2/1/2008, you wrote:
> ><There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought
> of,
> >but do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?
> >
> >The simplest thing I have found to do:
> >
> >1.  Get a chalk skirt marker (a tall plastic rod with a chalk marker
> >attached, usually with a bulb for blowing a chalk mark).  I believe
> >the most popular maker these days is Dritz and they are not expensive.
> >
> >2.  Stand on a settee or box so that the skirt hangs free all the
> >way around; make sure you are wearing any proper undergarments and
> >proper shoes.
> >
> >3.  Have a friend corroborate with you where you'd like the hem to
> >be, then while you stand up straight (at a natural stance, of
> >course) have your friend go all the way around you and mark the hem
> >with the chalk marker.
> >
> >This will work even if your hems are beyond floor level.  If you are
> >dealing with a train, then mark the skirt the correct length for
> >walking at the front and sides.  Figure out what length you'd like
> >the train to be (and the angle you'd like it to achieve), and mark
> >it at your pleasure while it is off your body.
> >
> >This method works very well no matter what the circumference; I have
> >marked huge ball gown hems this way -- you have to move the fabric about
> to
> >make sure you get enough marks, but they always come out beautifully.
> >
> >Richard in MI
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>  -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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> of a sewing helper.  I put the dress on (inside out, if I plan for it to 
> be unwashable).

Careful with this method though. When you put it inside out, the right side 
ends up on your left and vice-versa, so if you're even slightly lopsided 
(most of us are) your hem will end up longer on one side than on the other.

One important thing to remember too... the only way to be sure it's straight 
is to iron the fold, pin or baste temporarily, put the dress back on and 
look at yourself. Some fabrics stretch in weird ways and what looks straight 
when you mark it will end up looking weird when you wear it. 

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Subject: [h-cost] slops for women?
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I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and found a strange
reference to slops for women on page 64.

It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess
Mary each "received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood". A similar reference is made on
p. 65 that Elizabeth of York's sister had a "slop" made as part of her
mourning gear (along with mantle, sircote, kirtle, hood) for
Elizabeth's funeral (1503).

I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hem marking
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>> We use the chalk-skirt-marker-and-box method also.  
> My method is similar, but even lower-tech. I stand on a phone book. My 
> choice of book depends on whether I want a hem that brushes the floor 
> or comes a little higher or lower. For instance, if I want a hem that 
> just touches the floor, I stand on a book that is about the width of 
> the hem allowance. I then get a husband or friend to scoot around me 
> marking the point where the skirt hits the ground. The hard floor 
> makes a nice firm backing to the chalk as you mark.
I second this one.  Pretty much any friend can mark where the fabric 
hits the floor, while they may be far too nervous to try to mark a 
distance up from the floor.  My husband swore that he could not mark a 
hem straight, but using this method he marked a dress for me with box 
pleats at the front and a train at the back and it came out perfectly!

Jean
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
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Greetings Allison,

I glossed right over that list, so thank you for
bringing it to my attention.

Two thoughts I have on slops. One is that further down
the same paragraph they note that both Catherine and
Mary are riding horses, since they get special
pillions saddles. Perhaps the slops were for when they
are riding their horses?

The other item is in the back of the book, Glossary,
pg 435
SLOP loose breeches or hose with wide legs; a cloak or
nightgown.

I think in the situation given, perhaps this time the
slops refer to a type of cloak? Not really positive,
and perhaps more info will come around further into
the book when they discuss women's clothing.

And while I read the women's section a bit, I jumped
around. Right now I am deep into Henry VIII's clothing
section, after having finished the black garments of
his father. Man Henry VII and his family wore a lot of
black garments!

Kimiko


--- "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and
> found a strange
> reference to slops for women on page 64.



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No, let them eat steaks like the rest of us do,

-C.


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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 26 HIstorical Masquerade
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Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade

Call for Entries

The Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade recognizes creativity, 
scholarship, stage presentation, and workmanship skills in the context 
of historical clothing. It celebrates the history of costume, including 
all cultures, periods, and types of dress. "Historical costume" is 
costume based on clothing that was worn or could have been worn 
somewhere in the past of this world.

The Historical Masquerade will take place on Sunday, April 27th, 2008. 
To enter the CC26 Historical you must be a member of CC26, as must all 
models you may plan to use. We are expecting to have a particularly 
large number of entries for this Costume-Con, as the Bay Area has so 
many opportunities for historical costuming. Because of that, we would 
like to encourage interested costumers to pre-register, even if you 
only think you will have a garment completed in time. You can submit a 
registration form, or contact the masquerade directors to express your 
interest. Deadline for submission by mail: April 15th, 2008 
(registration forms can be obtained on the Costume-Con 26 website).

Deadline for registration at the con: 8 p.m. Friday, April 25th, 2008, 
but please don't wait in case we are unable to accept all submissions 
due to space/time limitations.

Thanks, and we are looking forward to a very wonderful historical 
masquerade at CC26!

Eleanor Farrell and Shelley Monson
Masquerade Directors

CC26 website: http://www.cc26.info
email: histmasq@cc26.org

Please feel free to repost this announcement.... thanks!
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 15:29:35 -0600
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Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the gown  
from dirt?  I believe they were sometimes made to match the gown.   
I'm blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know I've seen it  
somewhere....  Perhaps someone else on the list will know!

Suzanne

On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
> Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST
>
> I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and found a strange
> reference to slops for women on page 64.
>
> It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
> relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
> author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess
> Mary each "received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
> kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood".
> <snipped>
> I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
> What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allison T.

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 18:08:34 -0500
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May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 3, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Suzanne wrote:

> Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the gown=20
> from dirt?  I believe they were sometimes made to match the gown.  I'm=20
> blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know I've seen it=20
> somewhere....  Perhaps someone else on the list will know!
>
> Suzanne
>
> On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>> From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
>> Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST
>>
>> I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and found a strange
>> reference to slops for women on page 64.
>>
>> It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
>> relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
>> author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess
>> Mary each "received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
>> kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood".
>> <snipped>
>> I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
>> What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Allison T.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Regarding pants for you-Lands End makes a lot of their pants in a Tall
version. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Exstock
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems

My method developed from a blend of laziness and perfectionism, and the lack
of a sewing helper.  I put the dress on (inside out, if I plan for it to be
unwashable).  Then I grab a chalk marker or colored pencil, and stand beside
my kitchen counter.

My kitchen counter happens to be just the right height--about an inch below
the widest part of my hips--but any flat surface that's at the right height
and wide enough to rest the chalk marker on would work just fine.  You might
consider piling books on the edge of a table or desk until it's the right
height, if you're not so lucky with your kitchen counter.  Your surface
needs to be high up enough that there are few folds in the skirt where
you're marking, but low enough so that you're just barely past the widest
part of your lower half, and your hips and rear have already had whatever
effect they're going to have on the placement of the hem.

Standing beside my surface, I press the marker down on it, point out, with
the hand opposite the side I'm about to mark.  For example, if I'm marking
my left side, I use my right hand to hold the marker in place.  Then,
standing as straight as possible, and using my other hand (in this example,
the left hand) to make sure that as much of the fabric as possible comes
into contact with the marker, I rotate slowly; the marker marks the fabric
as I go.  (It's ok to miss an inch or two, here and there, with your marks;
you can generally figure out later where the curve should go based on what
is marked.)  If you're generally symmetrical, you can get away with marking
only one side; personally, even though I am symmetrical when it comes to
length I like to mark both sides and average out the curves, just to make
sure the mark is accurate and I didn't twitch at the wrong moment.

Once the curve is marked, I measure the distance from the surface to the
floor.  Ok, I don't, because I've got it memorized: 36" exactly. (Why yes,
it is hard for me to buy pants.) That means that if I want to have a
floor-length hem, I need to measure down exactly 36" inches from the curve I
just marked, plus seam allowance.  Whatever your surface-to-floor distance
is, use it to figure out how much you need to add to the curve to reach your
desired length + seam allowance.

Take off your dress, and lay it flat on the floor, with a fold from the top
of the front to the bottom at one end, and the back at the other.  The
bodice and sleeve portion should be all bunched up at the top of what will
look vaguely like a triangle.  Lock up your cats, and smooth the gown out
all nice and tidy, with the current hem edges matched together as perfectly
as possible.  Pin the current hem edges together every foot or so, so that
when you cut the new hem you can be sure that you're cutting the same amount
off of each side.  (Unless you're asymmetrical and had to mark each side
separately; in that case you don't need to mess with pinning.  Just be sure
to mark the new hem as below on both sides!)

Get a yardstick, or two if you are planning on a longer-than-floor length. 
(If two, go ahead and tape them together to the correct length; it'll save
headaches.)  Then, ignoring where your seams are, place the yardstick at a
90 degree angle to your marked curve.  The easiest way to do this is to line
up the top edge of your yardstick with the marks.  Then, at your desired
length, make a mark on EACH side of the yardstick.  Move your yardstick an
inch or two further along your marked curve, remembering to readjust it so
that it's at that 90 degree angle and the top edge matches the curve, and
mark again.  This should place your next set of hem marks several inches
from your first set--far enough that you don't have to spend all day
marking, but close enough that you can easily draw in a curve.  Continue all
the way around, and then go back and join up your hem marks in a smooth
curve.  If you're particularly nervous, you can unpin the hem, try the gown
on to see if your new hem marks are satisfactory, and then go back through
the smoothing/pinning process again before you cut your new hem line, but
personally I'm far too lazy for that.

If you have an especially wide skirt or are trying for an especially tough
hem length (like exactly floor-length all the way around) it may help to
make preliminary marks on your curve mark, dividing it up into equal
sections--say, front, front-side, side, side-back, back. Then, measure the
length of the front, side, and back first, making sure that the side hem
measurement mark is exactly halfway between the front & back hem marks. 
Then, you can mark the hem halfway between the front and the side, then
halfway between the front and the front-side, and so on, using your
preliminary marks on the curve to help.  This is the method I use 95% of the
time, but then I have a very vocal inner Adrian Monk.

If you plan on having a train, figure out your desired length at the front,
the sides, and the back.  Write this down somewhere.  Using that
information, figure out the length of several landmarks in between the front
and the back.  For example, let's say I want a train of 16" in the back,
with 8" on each side to give it a smooth curve.  My length from the mark to
the front is 36"; my length from the mark to halfway between the front and
the side is 40"; my length from the mark to the side is 44"; my length from
the mark to halfway between the side and the back is 48"; my length from the
mark to the back is 50".  If I need more than just those measurements to
figure out the curve of the hem, I can measure halfway in between the front
and the front-side, and add in a length of 38" (halfway between my front
length of 36" and my front-side length of 40"), and so on all the way around
the hem.

(Note--with trains, I personally prefer to wait until I'm a bit closer to
the sides before adding in any extra length, because if I'm planning on a
long train, the front hem of my garment could easily wind up with a
frowny-face sort of curve.  I generally keep the front at a constant length
until I'm at the front-side portion, then I start gradually adding in the
length.)

Though I do occasionally hem otherwise finished dresses this way, most of
the time I actually wind up marking the hem-length on my fitting muslin once
I'm happy with the fit.  Since my fitting muslin is generally upper-thigh
length, this tends to work out beautifully.  By figuring out my hem before I
cut out my fabric, I can use a thriftier & more efficient fabric layout,
which is way more of a priority for me than it probably should be.  Also, if
I'm only marking the fitting muslin, I can use a Sharpie marker for the
marking, which is a lot easier than trying to get the chalk to make enough
of an impression.

-E House

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "3mountains" <3mountains@yahoogroups.com>,
        "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 20:34:08 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen
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Well, it's been a good week.  Saturday stopped at the organic only fabric
store on 104th and Sandy for some cotton voile embroidered in a wandering
pattern (I have plans for reverse couching.) Then on to the Pendleton store
in Washougal for 6.5 yards of Oxblood color gabardine at $3.95 a yard.

Today the Good Will on 122nd avenue yielded a complete bolt of Navy Blue
Linen (imported original 100% says the old bolt it's on) for $14.99 for the
whole thing.

Considering the amount of flannel and double-knits I'd say that someone who
had been working towards "she who has the most fabric..." is giving up.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
"Live your life so your children can tell their children
That you not only stood for something wonderful,
But that you acted upon it".  Dan Zadra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen
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In a message dated 2/3/2008 11:25:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

Considering the amount of flannel and double-knits I'd say that someone  who
had been working towards "she who has the most fabric..." is giving  up.



Double knits?  Sounds more likely to me that "she" has gone on to her  reward 
and her family has been cleaning out.  
 
Ann Wass



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen
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Well, my 'evil' site/source of the week was pushing the e-Bay buttons for 
embroidered/beaded  lace!  I have garnered some beautiful borders from 
antique or vintage saris.  And one of the connected stores has saris of the 
same description.  Yardages of  both are upwards or over 6-7.  Starting 
prices are about $9. And the delivery from Bombay has been quite fast. 
Sigh.

Queen Maude is getting some of it but I must put my mind to other uses too!

Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "3mountains" <3mountains@yahoogroups.com>; "H-Costume" 
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 11:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen


> Well, it's been a good week.  Saturday stopped at the organic only fabric
> store on 104th and Sandy for some cotton voile embroidered in a wandering
> pattern (I have plans for reverse couching.) Then on to the Pendleton 
> store
> in Washougal for 6.5 yards of Oxblood color gabardine at $3.95 a yard.
>
> Today the Good Will on 122nd avenue yielded a complete bolt of Navy Blue
> Linen (imported original 100% says the old bolt it's on) for $14.99 for 
> the
> whole thing.
>
> Considering the amount of flannel and double-knits I'd say that someone 
> who
> had been working towards "she who has the most fabric..." is giving up.
>
>
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> "Live your life so your children can tell their children
> That you not only stood for something wonderful,
> But that you acted upon it".  Dan Zadra
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:24:40 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
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Not sure whether you mean my question or Suzanne's, but I have no
problem with your forwarding my original question.

Allison T.

On Feb 4, 2008 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 18:08:34 -0500
> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <db5ad186cce939c13413aad0dd2bc1cf@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=ISO-8859-1;     format=flowed
>
> May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo?
>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 18:57:59 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Erm, why not?  But now that I've found the reference that eluded me  
yesterday, it may not matter.  I was thinking of "safeguard" and  
according to Arnold it was "an outer skirt or petticoat worn by women  
to protect their dress when riding." (in 'Lost from Her Majesties  
Back' , p. 89)

So, an accessory for riding--but for the lady, not the horse.   ;-)
My apologies!
Suzanne

On Feb 4, 2008, at 1:01 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Date: February 3, 2008 5:08:34 PM CST
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo?
>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
> On Feb 3, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Suzanne wrote:
>
>> Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the  
>> gown from dirt?  I believe they were sometimes made to match the  
>> gown.  I'm blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know  
>> I've seen it somewhere....  Perhaps someone else on the list will  
>> know!
>>
>> Suzanne
>>
>> On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>>
>>> From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
>>> Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST
>>>
>>> I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and found a strange
>>> reference to slops for women on page 64.
>>>
>>> It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
>>> relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
>>> author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and  
>>> Princess
>>> Mary each "received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
>>> kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood".
>>> <snipped>
>>> I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
>>> What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Allison T.
>>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 21:51:02 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Let me run it by  the Sidesaddle Riders Groups and see what they say.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 4, 2008, at 7:57 PM, Suzanne wrote:

> Erm, why not?  But now that I've found the reference that eluded me=20
> yesterday, it may not matter.  I was thinking of "safeguard" and=20
> according to Arnold it was "an outer skirt or petticoat worn by women=20
> to protect their dress when riding." (in 'Lost from Her Majesties=20
> Back' , p. 89)
>
> So, an accessory for riding--but for the lady, not the horse.   ;-)
> My apologies!
> Suzanne
>
> On Feb 4, 2008, at 1:01 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
>> Date: February 3, 2008 5:08:34 PM CST
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>>
>>
>> May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo?
>>
>> Susan
>>
>> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
>> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
>> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>>
>> On Feb 3, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Suzanne wrote:
>>
>>> Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the gown=20
>>> from dirt?  I believe they were sometimes made to match the gown. =20
>>> I'm blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know I've seen it=20
>>> somewhere....  Perhaps someone else on the list will know!
>>>
>>> Suzanne
>>>
>>> On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
>>>> Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST
>>>>
>>>> I'm reading "Dress in the Court of Henry VIII" and found a strange
>>>> reference to slops for women on page 64.
>>>>
>>>> It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female
>>>> relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The
>>>> author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and=20
>>>> Princess
>>>> Mary each "received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote,
>>>> kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood".
>>>> <snipped>
>>>> I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women.
>>>> What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>>
>>>> Allison T.
>>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
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My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding 
a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman 
would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?

Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He was 
Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration 
and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson 
administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd 
just returned from Paris.

begin quote:
"February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
dressed."
:end quote

I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they 
are just theories.

Thanks,
Agnes 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: slops for women
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I'll have to check the glossary when I get back home - thanks!

I'm also intrigued by the possibility that slops = some kind of saddle
cloth. Hmm..

Allison T.

On Feb 3, 2008 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:


> Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 20:48:04 -0800 (PST)
> From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <237805.18544.qm@web32204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Greetings Allison,
>
> I glossed right over that list, so thank you for
> bringing it to my attention.
>
> Two thoughts I have on slops. One is that further down
> the same paragraph they note that both Catherine and
> Mary are riding horses, since they get special
> pillions saddles. Perhaps the slops were for when they
> are riding their horses?
>
> The other item is in the back of the book, Glossary,
> pg 435
> SLOP loose breeches or hose with wide legs; a cloak or
> nightgown.
>
> I think in the situation given, perhaps this time the
> slops refer to a type of cloak? Not really positive,
> and perhaps more info will come around further into
> the book when they discuss women's clothing.
>
> And while I read the women's section a bit, I jumped
> around. Right now I am deep into Henry VIII's clothing
> section, after having finished the black garments of
> his father. Man Henry VII and his family wore a lot of
> black garments!
>
> Kimiko
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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At 19:03 05/02/2008, you wrote:
>My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically 
>regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why 
>an 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
>
>Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John 
>Hay.  He was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the 
>Lincoln administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic 
>attache during the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball 
>in DC in February 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
>
>begin quote:
>"February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
>danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
>la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
>roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
>whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
>Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
>blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
>alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
>Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
>dressed."
>:end quote
>
>I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers 
>as they are just theories.


The Empress Eugenie was painted in 18th century dress by Franz Xavier 
Winterhalter, in the 1850's. It's a lot later, but could it be this 
kind of clothing do you think? The 18th century was very popular at that time.

http://tinyurl.com/34tyx6

Suzi 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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It sounds to me like they were doing a historically-themed event...
Possibly the "marquise" style references the Marquise de Pompadour?
Though the neck ribbon (if just a simple ribbon)is definitely from the
1790s... Not that blending times in reenactments never happens! ; )


Astrida


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 2:04 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>=20
> My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically
> regarding
> a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867
woman
> would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
>=20
> Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.
He
> was
> Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln
administration
> and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson
> administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when
he'd
> just returned from Paris.
>=20
> begin quote:
> "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> dressed."
> :end quote
>=20
> I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers
as
> they
> are just theories.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Agnes
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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I suspect it was a costume ball, either in 18th-century dress or with 
this "set" in 18th-century dress. Note that 1867 is almost, though not 
quite, a centennial year of the Declaration of Independence.

For fancy costume balls, it was not uncommon for a group of people to 
get together to dress in one historic theme, work up a dance that they 
felt was evocative of that era (though Victorian "18th-century" dances 
for such occasions were usually faux recreations, even at times when old 
people who had actually done 18th-century dances were still around), and 
dance it together at the ball.

In this case, for a near-centennial in the capital, possibly one set did 
a commemorative dance. Or a number of people, while not actually in 
historic dress, did something such as wearing hair powder to honor the 
theme.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Agnes Gawne wrote:
> My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically 
> regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 
> 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
> 
> Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He 
> was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln 
> administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache 
> during the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in 
> February 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> 
> begin quote:
> "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> dressed."
> :end quote
> 
> I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as 
> they are just theories.
> 
> Thanks,
> Agnes
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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My first guess is a "fancy-dress" (costume) or themed ball.=20

LuAnn



> From: gawne@mac.com
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:03:35 -0800
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>=20
> My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regard=
ing=20
> a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman=20
> would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
>=20
> Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He =
was=20
> Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration=
=20
> and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson=20
> administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd=
=20
> just returned from Paris.
>=20
> begin quote:
> "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> dressed."
> :end quote
>=20
> I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as t=
hey=20
> are just theories.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Agnes=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:41:02 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
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Check Hedgehog Handworks in the L.A. area. I don't know if she has it, but
she's certainly got a lot of wonderful lines of threads.

LynnD


On 2/1/08, margaret <m.p.decker@att.net> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk
> Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone
> now
> and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
> Margaret
>
> _______________________________________________
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Sounds like a costume ball, sometimes called fancy dress ball.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:04 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding
a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman
would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?

Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He was
Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration
and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson
administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd
just returned from Paris.

begin quote:
"February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who danced
the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a la marquise.
I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and Mrs.
Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the blue ribbon
around the neck, a little refinement in which she was alone -- Miss Kinzie,
a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully dressed."
:end quote

I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they
are just theories.

Thanks,
Agnes 

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References: <013301c86829$d2804a70$ca496b8c@fhcrc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 15:59:35 -0600
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How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -

The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George 
Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency). 
Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at least the 
mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According to the old style 
calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11.  At least in 
1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others marked 
the occasion on the 11th instead.

By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root in the 
American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its traditions 
included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions given 
by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns throughout the 
land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and fellow 
February baby (born on the 12th of the month).  The first formal observance 
of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination, when 
both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's 
Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did 
become a legal holiday in several states.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question


> My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically 
> regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 
> 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
>
> Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He 
> was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln 
> administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during 
> the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 
> 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
>
> begin quote:
> "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> dressed."
> :end quote
>
> I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as 
> they are just theories.
>
> Thanks,
> Agnes
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time=
, and it finally started to leak.  Whaaaaa!

I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006.  (I=
 wrote them and asked them to do another soon.)
I also contacted Threads magazine since most of their recent reviews are on=
 more expensive "ironing systems."

But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best? Ar=
e you aware of reviews in other publications?
I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their servic=
e records in years past hasn't been great.

Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!

Thanks

Sg

P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your opino=
n.


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Anyone have access to the OED?  I don't anymore, but it is always fun to lo=
ok there for some clues.


Sg



> Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 14:14:24 -0500
> From: athurman@gmail.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> CC:=20
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: slops for women
>=20
> I'll have to check the glossary when I get back home - thanks!
>=20
> I'm also intrigued by the possibility that slops =3D some kind of saddle
> cloth. Hmm..
>=20
> Allison T.
>=20
> On Feb 3, 2008 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> > Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 20:48:04 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <237805.18544.qm@web32204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1
> >
> > Greetings Allison,
> >
> > I glossed right over that list, so thank you for
> > bringing it to my attention.
> >
> > Two thoughts I have on slops. One is that further down
> > the same paragraph they note that both Catherine and
> > Mary are riding horses, since they get special
> > pillions saddles. Perhaps the slops were for when they
> > are riding their horses?
> >
> > The other item is in the back of the book, Glossary,
> > pg 435
> > SLOP loose breeches or hose with wide legs; a cloak or
> > nightgown.
> >
> > I think in the situation given, perhaps this time the
> > slops refer to a type of cloak? Not really positive,
> > and perhaps more info will come around further into
> > the book when they discuss women's clothing.
> >
> > And while I read the women's section a bit, I jumped
> > around. Right now I am deep into Henry VIII's clothing
> > section, after having finished the black garments of
> > his father. Man Henry VII and his family wore a lot of
> > black garments!
> >
> > Kimiko
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: slops for women
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: slops for women


>Anyone have access to the OED?  I don't anymore, but it is always fun to 
>look there for some clues.
>Sg



good idea, I did just that I've copied the relevant definition below which 
specifically mentions it's use for women's mourning in the 16th century.
Elizabeth

   2. a. An outer garment, as a loose jacket, tunic, cassock, mantle, gown, 
or smock-frock.
  For modern examples cf. the Eng. Dial. Dict. s.v. Slop n.21.
c1386 CHAUCER Pars. T. 422 The..scantnesse of clothyng as been thise kutted 
sloppes or haynselyns. c1440 York Myst. xxxi. 77 Se at my sloppe be wele 
sittande. c1440 Promp. Parv. 460/1 Sloppe, garment, mutatorium. c1489 CAXTON 
Sonnes of Aymon xxi. 466 Gyve me a newe sloppe and a large hode. 1523 LD. 
BERNERS Froiss. I. clxxvi. 213 He armed hymselfe with secrete armour, and 
dyd on a sloppe aboue, and a cloke aboue that. a1548 HALL Chron., Hen. VIII, 
55b, The mantels had great capes like to the Portingal slopys. a1618 
SYLVESTER Hymn of Alms 195 Wks. (Grosart) II. 210 To see some painted face, 
Or Fire~new Fashion in a Sleeve or slop. a1668 DAVENANT News fr. Plymouth 
IV. i, I will embrace thy long loose slopp and kiss Thy drivell'd Beard. 
1825 KNAPP & BALDWIN Newgate Cal. III. 448/2 A slop or shirt over it. 1841 
BORROW Zincali I. i, He was dressed in a coarse waggoner's slop. 1881 YOUNG 
Ev. Man his own Mechanic 12 The clothes of the amateur..should be protected 
at least by a loose 'slop' or jacket of canvas.
    b. spec. (See quot.) Obs.1

15.. Bk. of Precedence in Q. Eliz. Acad. 28 A slope is a morning Cassock for 
Ladyes and gentile wemen, not open before.
    c. (See quot.) Obs.0

1688 HOLME Armoury II. 395/2 A Womans face proper, with a Slop on her 
head..; the attire..makes me judge it to be rather some kind of Slop or 
Maunch for the head... Some term this a French Hood pendant. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 16:22:19 -0800
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On Feb 5, 2008, at 3:47 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or  
> sixth time, and it finally started to leak.  Whaaaaa!
>
> I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in  
> 2006.  (I wrote them and asked them to do another soon.)
> I also contacted Threads magazine since most of their recent reviews  
> are on more expensive "ironing systems."

I've got the Rowenta SuperPress 055 (external boiler) but it's a few  
years old. That said, I can heartily recommend an iron with an  
external boiler. No spitting, no lime, no staining ***ever*** because  
the water is below the iron and it's just steam being piped to it.  
Also, you can steam with a cold sole-plate.

Costco Online has the EuroPro Shark external tank iron for $99  
usually; I haven't tried it, but if it works that's an excellent price.

andy
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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Saragrace,

Thanks for sending out this request. I'm hoping to purchase a new iron soon
too, and have looked at the Rowenta line.  My old Black & Decker from over
15 years ago needs to be gently put to rest soon. I'm not committed to
Rowenta yet, remembering some of the recent comments.

So, what do you all say? Help Saragrace and me decide.

To help a bit, I don't iron much but press while sewing, weight isn't a
problem for me, I like to have steam and optional spray. If I was able to
get one without the automatic shut-off, I'd be happy but I don't know if
anyone is making those anymore...

LynnD


On 2/5/08, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>
> I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth
> time, and it finally started to leak.  Whaaaaa!
>
> I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in
> 2006.  (I wrote them and asked them to do another soon.)
> I also contacted Threads magazine since most of their recent reviews are
> on more expensive "ironing systems."
>
> But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best?
> Are you aware of reviews in other publications?
> I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their
> service records in years past hasn't been great.
>
> Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!
>
> Thanks
>
> Sg
>
> P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your
> opinon.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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On Feb 5, 2008, at 4:24 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> To help a bit, I don't iron much but press while sewing, weight  
> isn't a
> problem for me, I like to have steam and optional spray. If I was  
> able to
> get one without the automatic shut-off, I'd be happy but I don't  
> know if
> anyone is making those anymore...

The external-boiler models generally don't have auto shut-off. Mine  
doesn't.

I don't want spray in my iron, just steam. I got a Polder Ironing  
Station (board) and it's got a shelf for a little trigger-spray  
bottle. Easy to refill and one less thing on the iron that could break  
or leak.

andy
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am like Andy, I love my steam tank system. 

I have a Rowenta DG-980, with the removable tank. It
cost a little more, and I am not sure if the removable
tank is worth the extra cost, but I love it anyway. I
keep it on the entire time I am sewing, and it doesn't
shut itself off. Steam is great, and I can press with
a cooler plate if I want (tho' it might sputter a bit,
so I give it a short upright steaming burst to clear
the vents a bit, right before I actually press). I
have found I like the control better, it is lighter in
my hand since I am not lugging water around, too. It
does not spray water, but that's fine as I have been
using a water bottle, too. And the steaming action can
last an hour or more before refilling, for those yards
and yards of linen.

And since I keep it on a rolling table, I can move it
around if I need to, without much worry about the tank
falling and going boom. I just have to remember to
unplug or my little ones turn it on and leave it on,
which really isn't too bad those couple of times that
has happened. I would definitely buy another one when
this one eventually dies.

Kimiko


--- Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like,
> please give your opinon.



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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Oh yesssss - I definately do not iron!  I press too!  I don't care about sp=
ray, cause I just use a bottle for that....and I REALLY don't like auto-shu=
t off.  I use a timer and set it for the anticipated time - sometimes 8 hou=
rs - I intend to sew.  Also, I like a steel plate - not teflon.

I use these:  http://www.amazon.com/jobar-international-inc-jb9825-Shield/d=
p/B000M0N3U2=20

They are hard to find, but I see there are other makers coming out with the=
m.   If you buy one, be sure you get one with plenty of holes.....also, and=
 extra spring helps to hold it on better.

Sg



 > To help a bit, I don't iron much but press while sewing, weight isn't a
> problem for me, I like to have steam and optional spray. If I was able to
> get one without the automatic shut-off, I'd be happy but I don't know if
> anyone is making those anymore...
>=20
> LynnD
>=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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On Feb 5, 2008, at 4:22 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> Costco Online has the EuroPro Shark external tank iron for $99  
> usually; I haven't tried it, but if it works that's an excellent  
> price.

Someone just pointed out that the Shark isn't on Costco online  
anymore, and they're right. I haven't looked in a few months.

andy
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I have one very much like this: Euro-Pro EP8001 Steam Generator Iron, see
http://www.amazon.com/Euro-Pro-EP8001-Steam-Generator-Iron/dp/B00006RVIJ
I don't think the brand makes much difference, as long as you get the
external tank. I've used many irons over the years, and nothing works as
well as having the tank full of steam at the touch of a button.

However, I do have a Eruo Pro ironing table, with suction. I think this
makes a lot of difference, too. Even for cotton or linen, I don't need very
high heat. The steam and the suction work together to get all the wrinkles
out. They don't make that one anymore, but there are other brands, such as
Hi Steam PND 1000AC, 700W Vacuum Suction Commercial Ironing Board , see
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp02315-0794.html

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 5:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time,
and it finally started to leak.  Whaaaaa!

I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006.  (I
wrote them and asked them to do another soon.) I also contacted Threads
magazine since most of their recent reviews are on more expensive "ironing
systems."

But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best? Are
you aware of reviews in other publications?
I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their service
records in years past hasn't been great.

Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!

Thanks

Sg

P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your
opinon.


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <013301c86829$d2804a70$ca496b8c@fhcrc.org>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:36:02 -0800
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Sounds like a masquerade all to me. I just went to a costume ball wedding
and the bride wore 17th century costume, with powdered hair. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 11:04 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding
a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman
would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?

Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He was
Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration
and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson
administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd
just returned from Paris.

begin quote:
"February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who danced
the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a la marquise.
I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and Mrs.
Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the blue ribbon
around the neck, a little refinement in which she was alone -- Miss Kinzie,
a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully dressed."
:end quote

I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they
are just theories.

Thanks,
Agnes 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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I just got a new iron, a Westinghouse, cost $20 at Target. What I like about
it is that it changes color depending on the temperature. This is a really
good feature, as my old iron melted some taffeta (thankfully only the seam
allowance). 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 3:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time,
and it finally started to leak.  Whaaaaa!

I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006.  (I
wrote them and asked them to do another soon.) I also contacted Threads
magazine since most of their recent reviews are on more expensive "ironing
systems."

But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best? Are
you aware of reviews in other publications?
I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their service
records in years past hasn't been great.

Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!

Thanks

Sg

P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your
opinon.


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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My first thought also was that it must have been an 18th-century themed =
ball, especially as the Cotillion was a dance of that period.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful
little cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic
design, done in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it
was a George Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted
not having bought it.....

Katy

On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>
> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George
> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at least the
> mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According to the old style
> calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11.  At least in
> 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others marked
> the occasion on the 11th instead.
>
> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root in the
> American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its traditions
> included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions given
> by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns throughout the
> land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and fellow
> February baby (born on the 12th of the month).  The first formal observance
> of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination, when
> both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's
> Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did
> become a legal holiday in several states.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
>
> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically
> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an
> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
> >
> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He
> > was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln
> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during
> > the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February
> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> >
> > begin quote:
> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> > blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> > alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> > dressed."
> > :end quote
> >
> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as
> > they are just theories.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Agnes
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:49:23 -0600
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	<3586f5070802060544h27caee54r269bc5f5b6aee3be@mail.gmail.com>
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes, there are photo sources that show people costumed in what we would
consider bad 18th century costume, especially the women. There was a
great interest in American history at this time, and it probably helped
spur the restoration of Williamsburg to its colonial roots.=20

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 7:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful little
cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic design,
done in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it was a
George Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted not having
bought it.....

Katy

On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>
> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George=20
> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at=20
> least the mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According=20
> to the old style calendar in use back then, however, he was born on=20
> February 11.  At least in 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday

> on the 22nd while others marked the occasion on the 11th instead.
>
> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root=20
> in the American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its=20
> traditions included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and=20
> receptions given by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in=20
> taverns throughout the land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another

> revered president and fellow February baby (born on the 12th of the=20
> month).  The first formal observance of his birthday took place in=20
> 1865, the year after his assassination, when both houses of Congress=20
> gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's Birthday did not=20
> become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did become a
legal holiday in several states.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
>
> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically=20
> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why=20
> > an
> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her
neck?
> >
> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.

> > He was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln=20
> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache=20
> > during the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in

> > February
> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> >
> > begin quote:
> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who=20
> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a

> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and=20
> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of=20
> > the blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she=20
> > was alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb
danseuse.
> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully=20
> > dressed."
> > :end quote
> >
> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers

> > as they are just theories.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Agnes
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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	<000901c86556$f06801c0$c2b04a0c@toshibauser>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 03:01:58 -0500
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Is this superior to other embroidery threads?
Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of margaret
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers

Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk 
Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone now

and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
Margaret 

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I _adore_ my Rowenta DG-980 Steam Generator, but unfortunately it isn't 
available any more :-( I use it all the time, and have had it for about 5 
years. It makes loud noises now when the water reservoir gets low (which 
it didn't used too) and very occasionally spirts rust (probably 'cause I 
don't remember to clean it out as often as I should...) but it makes 
ironing immensely easier. I actually like it better then most of the 
industrial irons I've worked with - it's less fussy, and the steam it 
produces gives me equally good and fast results.

Good Luck!
        -sunny



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <013301c86829$d2804a70$ca496b8c@fhcrc.org><002801c86842$69b92250$76aca946@yourxhtr8hvc4p>
	<3586f5070802060544h27caee54r269bc5f5b6aee3be@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:14:19 -0500
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I have had something like this in my collection.  A note with mine said that 
it was a garment worn in 1936 for a GWA celebration ball.  The fabric was 
'screaming gunnysack' as might have been appropriate for the Great 
Depression. Also have a red sateen gents jacket with lovely lace cuffs and 
gilt trim that came from another source, but was used during the 30's 
decade.

kathleen Mitchell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question


> Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful
> little cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic
> design, done in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it
> was a George Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted
> not having bought it.....
>
> Katy
>
> On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
>> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>>
>> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George
>> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
>> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at least 
>> the
>> mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According to the old 
>> style
>> calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11.  At least 
>> in
>> 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others 
>> marked
>> the occasion on the 11th instead.
>>
>> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root in 
>> the
>> American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its traditions
>> included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions 
>> given
>> by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns throughout 
>> the
>> land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and 
>> fellow
>> February baby (born on the 12th of the month).  The first formal 
>> observance
>> of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination, 
>> when
>> both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's
>> Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it 
>> did
>> become a legal holiday in several states.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
>> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
>> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>>
>>
>>
>> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically
>> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an
>> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
>> >
>> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay. 
>> > He
>> > was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln
>> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache 
>> > during
>> > the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February
>> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
>> >
>> > begin quote:
>> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
>> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
>> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
>> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
>> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
>> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
>> > blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
>> > alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
>> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
>> > dressed."
>> > :end quote
>> >
>> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as
>> > they are just theories.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Agnes
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question for embroiderers
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Fireside carries it...
http://www.firesidestitchery.com
along with many other silks...and there is a good Indian restaurant 
around the corner...plus a good Vet specialty practice...<G>
Of course if you are going to the Vet's, there is no money for 
Fireside, but it's fun to shop anyhow.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <OF7D7A7AF5.DCE06744-ON852573E7.00519FFB-852573E7.00521228@KP.ORG>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:25:24 -0500
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I have had Rowentas in the past and loved them.  "Spitting" was always a 
problem, eventually.  As a shop appliance, I presume that It got more use 
than the usual iron.  My present is a Sunbeam with automatic shut off.  Not 
a good choice.  It shuts off in about 45 seconds because it is in prone 
position...even if it is moving!! Hardly time to press a linen napkin, never 
mind a garment.  So far, it doesn't spit.  The burst of steam is fair but 
not up to the pressure of the Rowenta

If I were in the market for a new one, especially for bespoke sewing, I 
would definitely get something with a separate water tank.  Borrowed the 
steamer from the college last year when preparing the vast collection on the 
auction block and that was such a plus!

Kathleen

If I was shopping for
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT


>I _adore_ my Rowenta DG-980 Steam Generator, but unfortunately it isn't
> available any more :-( I use it all the time, and have had it for about 5
> years. It makes loud noises now when the water reservoir gets low (which
> it didn't used too) and very occasionally spirts rust (probably 'cause I
> don't remember to clean it out as often as I should...) but it makes
> ironing immensely easier. I actually like it better then most of the
> industrial irons I've worked with - it's less fussy, and the steam it
> produces gives me equally good and fast results.
>
> Good Luck!
>        -sunny
>
>
>
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:29:37 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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Yes, the one I saw also screamed cheap 1930s cotton prints.  It had a
very elaborate manufacturers label, with woven print, saying it was a
George Washington bicentennial dress.  It was such a pitiful little
thing, I wonder if there are any in museum costume collections?

The gents jacket sounds spiffy.  A friend of mine has an 18th century
style gents jacket done in arts and crafts print fabric, seems to be
from the turn of the century.

Katy

On Feb 6, 2008 10:14 AM, LLOYD MITCHELL <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> I have had something like this in my collection.  A note with mine said that
> it was a garment worn in 1936 for a GWA celebration ball.  The fabric was
> 'screaming gunnysack' as might have been appropriate for the Great
> Depression. Also have a red sateen gents jacket with lovely lace cuffs and
> gilt trim that came from another source, but was used during the 30's
> decade.
>
> kathleen Mitchell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 8:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
> > Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful
> > little cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic
> > design, done in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it
> > was a George Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted
> > not having bought it.....
> >
> > Katy
> >
> > On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
> >> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
> >>
> >> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George
> >> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
> >> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at least
> >> the
> >> mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According to the old
> >> style
> >> calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11.  At least
> >> in
> >> 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others
> >> marked
> >> the occasion on the 11th instead.
> >>
> >> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root in
> >> the
> >> American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its traditions
> >> included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions
> >> given
> >> by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns throughout
> >> the
> >> land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and
> >> fellow
> >> February baby (born on the 12th of the month).  The first formal
> >> observance
> >> of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination,
> >> when
> >> both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's
> >> Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it
> >> did
> >> become a legal holiday in several states.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
> >> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
> >> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically
> >> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an
> >> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
> >> >
> >> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.
> >> > He
> >> > was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln
> >> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache
> >> > during
> >> > the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February
> >> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> >> >
> >> > begin quote:
> >> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
> >> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
> >> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> >> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> >> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
> >> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the
> >> > blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
> >> > alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> >> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
> >> > dressed."
> >> > :end quote
> >> >
> >> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as
> >> > they are just theories.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >> > Agnes
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > h-costume mailing list
> >> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> > katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
> >     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
> >      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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This has been my experience exactly. The only other good thing about the 
Sunbeam is that there is a blinking red light that is constant as long as 
the iron is plugged in.  This helps me to remember to unplug it when not in 
use. ..like when I off on a trip!!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT


>I had a Sunbeam, purchased a year or two ago, that would shut off
> constantly while being used; it did steam wonderfully, and could be
> used as a steamer as it even steamed when held vertically.  I finally
> gave up on it as it was so frustrating, I ended up having to turn off
> the power strip and wait a minute before I could turn it back on.
>
> I recently did a household iron search, specifically looking for one
> with a "on" or reset button, and found a GE iron at Wal-Mart, that
> actually has a reset button--no more unplugging the iron and plugging
> back in to turn back on!  It says it stays on for an hour.
> Annoyingly, many household irons now have no on button as a "safely
> feature" and are designed to turn off after 1/2-1 hour, regardless of
> whether it's being used and must be reset or unplugged.
>
> I will eventually get an iron with a separate reservoir, but for now
> this one has been ok:
>
> GE Retractable cord Iron
> 16934 (? Number on box)
>
> http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5924585
>
> On Feb 6, 2008 10:25 AM, LLOYD MITCHELL <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
>> I have had Rowentas in the past and loved them.  "Spitting" was always a
>> problem, eventually.  As a shop appliance, I presume that It got more use
>> than the usual iron.  My present is a Sunbeam with automatic shut off. 
>> Not
>> a good choice.  It shuts off in about 45 seconds because it is in prone
>> position...even if it is moving!! Hardly time to press a linen napkin, 
>> never
>> mind a garment.  So far, it doesn't spit.  The burst of steam is fair but
>> not up to the pressure of the Rowenta
>>
>> If I were in the market for a new one, especially for bespoke sewing, I
>> would definitely get something with a separate water tank.  Borrowed the
>> steamer from the college last year when preparing the vast collection on 
>> the
>> auction block and that was such a plus!
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> If I was shopping for
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 9:56 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
>>
>>
>> >I _adore_ my Rowenta DG-980 Steam Generator, but unfortunately it isn't
>> > available any more :-( I use it all the time, and have had it for about 
>> > 5
>> > years. It makes loud noises now when the water reservoir gets low 
>> > (which
>> > it didn't used too) and very occasionally spirts rust (probably 'cause 
>> > I
>> > don't remember to clean it out as often as I should...) but it makes
>> > ironing immensely easier. I actually like it better then most of the
>> > industrial irons I've worked with - it's less fussy, and the steam it
>> > produces gives me equally good and fast results.
>> >
>> > Good Luck!
>> >        -sunny
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > NOTICE TO RECIPIENT:  If you are not the intended recipient of this
>> > e-mail, you are prohibited from sharing, copying, or otherwise using or
>> > disclosing its contents.  If you have received this e-mail in error,
>> > please notify the sender immediately by reply e-mail and permanently
>> > delete this e-mail and any attachments without reading, forwarding or
>> > saving them.  Thank you.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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Status: RO

Mine's a bog-standard tefal domestic iron, with a separate water  tank.  
Although I use it as a dry iron generally (I tend to use a spray  bottle or 
dauber if I need to steam), it has spray steam and shot of  steam.
No idea what model number it is, though it's an older one - has been on  8-20 
hours per day every working day for the last 7 or 8 years, and is still  
going strong.
 
 
Also have (I think a singer) steam press - again no idea what model.   Sorry.



   
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> Message: 5 
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:29:37 -0500 
> From: "Katy Bishop" 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Message-ID: 
> <3586f5070802060729lec11612xc16720f0f85612a8@mail.gmail.com> 
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> 
> Yes, the one I saw also screamed cheap 1930s cotton prints. It had a 
> very elaborate manufacturers label, with woven print, saying it was a 
> George Washington bicentennial dress. It was such a pitiful little 
> thing, I wonder if there are any in museum costume collections? 
> > **************************************** 


The DAR Museum did an exhibition a few years ago on bi-centennial (or colonial revival?)costumes.  Alden O'Brien was curator, I believe, and could probably provide additional information.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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Status: RO

I recently had to replace my iron and got a Black and Decker Digital 
Advantage D2020. I'm not sure I'd recommend this to anyone. I had very 
little choice when purchasing this one, as I was in the middle of a 
commissioned costume and couldn't wait more than 24 hours to find a 
replacement.

Anyway, it's heavy enough, steams well, and gets the basic job done, but 
it is heavy. The water fill spot has a little cap over it which is nice, 
but it is also narrow which makes filling it difficult and I've already 
lost the little cup that came with it that you're supposed to use.

The single most annoying feature is the self shut off. It shuts off 
after a short time, I am constantly having to turn it back on while I am 
sewing. It's easy enough to do that, just pick it up and the motion 
turns it back on. Yes, picking up the iron turns it on. Good thing we 
don't have kiddies around any more. Also, if it is plugged in and your 
power fluctuates, or goes off and comes back on, the iron turns itself 
on. Bad, bad bad.

The digital temperature set is not my favorite feature. Theoretically 
you can just push the button with your thumb while holding the iron and 
it goes up or down. But if you turned it on at 1 and turned it up to 5 
and you want to adjust the temp down you have to go through 6, 7, and 6 
again, and 5, to get to 4.

And this sucker is heavy. I know heavy can be good, but it's heavy 
enough it's almost difficult for me to use. It was heavy before I messed 
up my shoulder, and these days it's downright exhausting to use it 
sometimes.

It does have an on/off dial and adjustment for the steam, so you can 
have any temp setting and steam combo. It's nice to be able to shut 
steam off without having to empty the iron.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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In a message dated 2/6/2008 10:30:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
katybishop64@gmail.com writes:

It was  such a pitiful little
thing, I wonder if there are any in museum costume  collections?



*******************
 
Well, at least it wasn't 100% polyester with a zipper up the back.... like  a 
1976 Bicentennial costume.
 
I once saw a fascinating exhibit at FIT of Halloween costumes...starting in  
the mid 1800's to the present. It was a great show. If this exists, I'm sure  
someone is collecting George Washington Bicentennial  costumes.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
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I just had to forward this to the lists.  I hope=20
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Joan

>Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:14:41 -0500 (EST)
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Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:45:39 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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I had a Sunbeam, purchased a year or two ago, that would shut off
constantly while being used; it did steam wonderfully, and could be
used as a steamer as it even steamed when held vertically.  I finally
gave up on it as it was so frustrating, I ended up having to turn off
the power strip and wait a minute before I could turn it back on.

I recently did a household iron search, specifically looking for one
with a "on" or reset button, and found a GE iron at Wal-Mart, that
actually has a reset button--no more unplugging the iron and plugging
back in to turn back on!  It says it stays on for an hour.
Annoyingly, many household irons now have no on button as a "safely
feature" and are designed to turn off after 1/2-1 hour, regardless of
whether it's being used and must be reset or unplugged.

I will eventually get an iron with a separate reservoir, but for now
this one has been ok:

GE Retractable cord Iron
16934 (? Number on box)

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5924585

On Feb 6, 2008 10:25 AM, LLOYD MITCHELL <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> I have had Rowentas in the past and loved them.  "Spitting" was always a
> problem, eventually.  As a shop appliance, I presume that It got more use
> than the usual iron.  My present is a Sunbeam with automatic shut off.  Not
> a good choice.  It shuts off in about 45 seconds because it is in prone
> position...even if it is moving!! Hardly time to press a linen napkin, never
> mind a garment.  So far, it doesn't spit.  The burst of steam is fair but
> not up to the pressure of the Rowenta
>
> If I were in the market for a new one, especially for bespoke sewing, I
> would definitely get something with a separate water tank.  Borrowed the
> steamer from the college last year when preparing the vast collection on the
> auction block and that was such a plus!
>
> Kathleen
>
> If I was shopping for
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 9:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
>
>
> >I _adore_ my Rowenta DG-980 Steam Generator, but unfortunately it isn't
> > available any more :-( I use it all the time, and have had it for about 5
> > years. It makes loud noises now when the water reservoir gets low (which
> > it didn't used too) and very occasionally spirts rust (probably 'cause I
> > don't remember to clean it out as often as I should...) but it makes
> > ironing immensely easier. I actually like it better then most of the
> > industrial irons I've worked with - it's less fussy, and the steam it
> > produces gives me equally good and fast results.
> >
> > Good Luck!
> >        -sunny
> >
> >
> >
> > NOTICE TO RECIPIENT:  If you are not the intended recipient of this
> > e-mail, you are prohibited from sharing, copying, or otherwise using or
> > disclosing its contents.  If you have received this e-mail in error,
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> > delete this e-mail and any attachments without reading, forwarding or
> > saving them.  Thank you.
> > _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:56:16 -0500
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Wow, I'd like to see that jacket!  Nothing like a Morris print to catch the 
eye!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question


> Yes, the one I saw also screamed cheap 1930s cotton prints.  It had a
> very elaborate manufacturers label, with woven print, saying it was a
> George Washington bicentennial dress.  It was such a pitiful little
> thing, I wonder if there are any in museum costume collections?
>
> The gents jacket sounds spiffy.  A friend of mine has an 18th century
> style gents jacket done in arts and crafts print fabric, seems to be
> from the turn of the century.
>
> Katy
>
> On Feb 6, 2008 10:14 AM, LLOYD MITCHELL <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
>> I have had something like this in my collection.  A note with mine said 
>> that
>> it was a garment worn in 1936 for a GWA celebration ball.  The fabric was
>> 'screaming gunnysack' as might have been appropriate for the Great
>> Depression. Also have a red sateen gents jacket with lovely lace cuffs 
>> and
>> gilt trim that came from another source, but was used during the 30's
>> decade.
>>
>> kathleen Mitchell
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 8:44 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>>
>>
>> > Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful
>> > little cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic
>> > design, done in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it
>> > was a George Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted
>> > not having bought it.....
>> >
>> > Katy
>> >
>> > On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
>> >> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>> >>
>> >> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George
>> >> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
>> >> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at 
>> >> least
>> >> the
>> >> mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According to the old
>> >> style
>> >> calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11.  At 
>> >> least
>> >> in
>> >> 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others
>> >> marked
>> >> the occasion on the 11th instead.
>> >>
>> >> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root 
>> >> in
>> >> the
>> >> American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its traditions
>> >> included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions
>> >> given
>> >> by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns 
>> >> throughout
>> >> the
>> >> land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and
>> >> fellow
>> >> February baby (born on the 12th of the month).  The first formal
>> >> observance
>> >> of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination,
>> >> when
>> >> both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address.  While 
>> >> Lincoln's
>> >> Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it
>> >> did
>> >> become a legal holiday in several states.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
>> >> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
>> >> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically
>> >> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why 
>> >> > an
>> >> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her 
>> >> > neck?
>> >> >
>> >> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.
>> >> > He
>> >> > was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln
>> >> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache
>> >> > during
>> >> > the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in 
>> >> > February
>> >> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
>> >> >
>> >> > begin quote:
>> >> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who
>> >> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a
>> >> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
>> >> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
>> >> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and
>> >> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of 
>> >> > the
>> >> > blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was
>> >> > alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
>> >> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully
>> >> > dressed."
>> >> > :end quote
>> >> >
>> >> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers 
>> >> > as
>> >> > they are just theories.
>> >> >
>> >> > Thanks,
>> >> > Agnes
>> >> > _______________________________________________
>> >> > h-costume mailing list
>> >> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >> >
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>> > --
>> > Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> > katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>> >     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>> >      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
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Status: RO

The John Hay quote sounds like a description of an early version of
historical re-enactment.

There are many sites, particularly in VA that do GW Birthnight Balls
and similar events.
http://oha.alexandriava.gov/oha-main/gw200/oha-gw-birthnight.html
http://www.washingtonbirthday.net/html/events.html
I also remember Carlyle House in Alexandria VA doing them.
Sounds like fun. I'd go, if DC wasnt the other end of the country.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
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Status: RO

 
In my experience it's one of the best available in the world (although  
naturally it dpends on the end use).
 
 
Sorry - don't know of a US stockist, as I just order through the webisite  
direct (but am in UK).
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/02/2008 14:52:46 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Is this  superior to other embroidery threads?
Anne


 



   
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 11:56:16 -0800
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If the label said "Bicentennial" that would mean it was dated 1976,
correct?, no matter what the fabric looked like. Or was it celebrating the
bicentennial of his birth, 1932?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 5:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful little
cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic design, done
in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it was a George
Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted not having bought
it.....

Katy

On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <newton2@kansas.net> wrote:
> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>
> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George 
> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at 
> least the mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According 
> to the old style calendar in use back then, however, he was born on 
> February 11.  At least in 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday 
> on the 22nd while others marked the occasion on the 11th instead.
>
> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root 
> in the American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its 
> traditions included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and 
> receptions given by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in 
> taverns throughout the land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another 
> revered president and fellow February baby (born on the 12th of the 
> month).  The first formal observance of his birthday took place in 
> 1865, the year after his assassination, when both houses of Congress 
> gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's Birthday did not 
> become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did become a legal
holiday in several states.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
>
> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically 
> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why 
> > an
> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
> >
> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  
> > He was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln 
> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache 
> > during the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in 
> > February
> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> >
> > begin quote:
> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who 
> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a 
> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and 
> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of 
> > the blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she 
> > was alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully 
> > dressed."
> > :end quote
> >
> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers 
> > as they are just theories.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Agnes
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>



--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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Excellent point, andy, about one less thing to break or leak. i have spray
bottles that i could use instead. thanks!

Lynn


On 2/5/08, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:
>
> On Feb 5, 2008, at 4:24 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> > To help a bit, I don't iron much but press while sewing, weight
> > isn't a
> > problem for me, I like to have steam and optional spray. If I was
> > able to
> > get one without the automatic shut-off, I'd be happy but I don't
> > know if
> > anyone is making those anymore...
>
> The external-boiler models generally don't have auto shut-off. Mine
> doesn't.
>
> I don't want spray in my iron, just steam. I got a Polder Ironing
> Station (board) and it's got a shelf for a little trigger-spray
> bottle. Easy to refill and one less thing on the iron that could break
> or leak.
>
> andy
> _______________________________________________
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I found this list of retail shops that carry Pearsall's. I hope this will be a good link and not too expensive. 
http://www.tristanbrooks.com/Pearsalls/Retail.htm

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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I, also, have a Black and Decker.  It's the Classic model - no auto  shut-off 
and just a regular, old-fashioned dial setting.  Cost about $30.  It, too, is 
heavy, but I like that.  It's almost the same as the GE I  had in college in 
1970's.  
 
My criteria in an iron is how close to the point the steam vents are.   Some 
of them have all the vents in the wide part which does absolutely no good  
trying to press a seam open!  
 
Has anyone ever used the tiny iron you see in the Quilt shows?  Would  it be 
useful for getting into close seams?  
 
Catherine 
 
In a message dated 2/6/2008 12:22:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

I  recently had to replace my iron and got a Black and Decker Digital  
Advantage D2020. I'm not sure I'd recommend this to anyone. I had very  
little choice when purchasing this one, as I was in the middle of a  
commissioned costume and couldn't wait more than 24 hours to find a  
replacement.

Anyway, it's heavy enough, steams well, and gets the  basic job done, but 
it is heavy. The water fill spot has a little cap over  it which is nice, 
but it is also narrow which makes filling it difficult  and I've already 
lost the little cup that came with it that you're  supposed to use.

The single most annoying feature is the self shut off.  It shuts off 
after a short time, I am constantly having to turn it back on  while I am 
sewing. It's easy enough to do that, just pick it up and the  motion 
turns it back on. Yes, picking up the iron turns it on. Good thing  we 
don't have kiddies around any more. Also, if it is plugged in and your  
power fluctuates, or goes off and comes back on, the iron turns itself  
on. Bad, bad bad.

The digital temperature set is not my favorite  feature. Theoretically 
you can just push the button with your thumb while  holding the iron and 
it goes up or down. But if you turned it on at 1 and  turned it up to 5 
and you want to adjust the temp down you have to go  through 6, 7, and 6 
again, and 5, to get to 4.

And this sucker is  heavy. I know heavy can be good, but it's heavy 
enough it's almost  difficult for me to use. It was heavy before I messed 
up my shoulder, and  these days it's downright exhausting to use it 
sometimes.

It does  have an on/off dial and adjustment for the steam, so you can 
have any temp  setting and steam combo. It's nice to be able to shut 
steam off without  having to empty the iron.

Dawn







**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
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The colors hold true for the whole spool (it comes on a spool as a single 
thread which I like), did not fray easily, and did not tangle if I used 
bee's wax.
Margaret


> Is this superior to other embroidery threads?
> Anne
>
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 17:31:36 -0600
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>
> In my experience it's one of the best available in the world (although
> naturally it dpends on the end use).
>
>
> Sorry - don't know of a US stockist, as I just order through the webisite
> direct (but am in UK).
>
>
>
May we have the URL?
Margaret 

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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
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It ain't the iron, it's the ironer.

Like anything else, you have to practise to be good at it,

-C.


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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washington Ball (or tea, or ?)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 18:04:02 -0600
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Fun!
And on the same general subject, the Library of Congress has a  
collection of historic dance manuals that includes some etiquette  
books -- I know I've seen a description of how to host a "Washington  
Ball" in one of them, but it was from my own grandmother's era (1910- 
ish) and so doesn't answer the original question.  The illustration  
showing a "Martha Washington" costume was delightfully  
Edwardian.  ;-)  If you go to http://www.loc.gov/index.html and put  
"Washington Ball" in the search box you'll probably find it... or  
search the "American Memory" section of their website for An American  
Dance Companion.

Suzanne
(who of course can NOT find the pages she printed over a year ago  
from that etiquette manual)

On Feb 6, 2008, at 1:01 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> Date: February 6, 2008 12:26:35 PM CST
> To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
> The John Hay quote sounds like a description of an early version of
> historical re-enactment.
>
> There are many sites, particularly in VA that do GW Birthnight Balls
> and similar events.
> http://oha.alexandriava.gov/oha-main/gw200/oha-gw-birthnight.html
> http://www.washingtonbirthday.net/html/events.html
> I also remember Carlyle House in Alexandria VA doing them.
> Sounds like fun. I'd go, if DC wasnt the other end of the country.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes

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Subject: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your iron? - again
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Okay -C, just have to ask .... do you really mean the tool has nothing to do
with it?

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 4:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

It ain't the iron, it's the ironer.

Like anything else, you have to practise to be good at it,

-C.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your iron? -
	again - OT
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On Feb 6, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Wicked Frau wrote:
> Okay -C, just have to ask .... do you really mean the tool has  
> nothing to do
> with it?

When we were young, we made our irons out of adobe. Sure, you moisten  
the fabric you're pressing and you'll get mud all over it, but they  
were real, and we liked it!

andy
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your iron? -
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It is so unfair that at times like this,  I have no way to explain why I ha=
ve just laughed myself off the chair. =20
God give me a hobby with a language I can share with my loved ones.
=20
Laurie
=20
> When we were young, we made our irons out of adobe. Sure, you moisten > t=
he fabric you're pressing and you'll get mud all over it, but they > were r=
eal, and we liked it!> > andy
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!=A0Play the word scramble challenge with sta=
r power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=3Dstarshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja=
n=
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
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Saturday morning I am leaving for Honolulu, Hawaii...tagging along with =
my husband on a business trip.  I will be returning Sunday the 17th.  =
Can anyone please suggest museums or places of interest for history, =
costume, and fashion related.  I also love gardens and flowers.  I have =
planned to go to the Palace, Pearl Harbor, and someone suggested the =
market where the Pro Bowl is held (of course after Sunday's game).  This =
person told me there is a great market at the Pro Bowl arena during the =
week.  Is this true? =20

I will be going to no mail for email lists Thursday night.  If you have =
suggestions after that time, please email me privately.  I will be =
checking private email messages starting Monday-Friday from Hawaii.   =20
 =20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your iron?
	-again - OT
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What a concept!  I've uses mud for a lot of things...never thought of using 
it to iron with.  Will have to pass this one on to my grandchild. My-oh-my!!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:42 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your 
iron? -again - OT



It is so unfair that at times like this,  I have no way to explain why I 
have just laughed myself off the chair.
God give me a hobby with a language I can share with my loved ones.

Laurie

> When we were young, we made our irons out of adobe. Sure, you moisten > 
> the fabric you're pressing and you'll get mud all over it, but they > were 
> real, and we liked it!> > andy
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star 
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 47
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Thanks for the info.!

Katy

On Feb 6, 2008 11:54 AM, Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:29:37 -0500
> > From: "Katy Bishop"
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
> > To: "Historical Costume"
> > Message-ID:
> > <3586f5070802060729lec11612xc16720f0f85612a8@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > Yes, the one I saw also screamed cheap 1930s cotton prints. It had a
> > very elaborate manufacturers label, with woven print, saying it was a
> > George Washington bicentennial dress. It was such a pitiful little
> > thing, I wonder if there are any in museum costume collections?
> > > ****************************************
>
>
> The DAR Museum did an exhibition a few years ago on bi-centennial (or colonial revival?)costumes.  Alden O'Brien was curator, I believe, and could probably provide additional information.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
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From: Kathy Stormberg <kstormy@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 13:35:56 -0800
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Yes, there is a great market at the stadium (forget what it is called) but =
I do not remember that is was everyday.  You can buy all the same Hawaii-th=
eme souvenirs, seat covers, clothes, jewelry, etc. but it is cheaper than e=
lsewhere.  Worth it to do one-stop souvenir shopping then you can basically=
 forget shopping the rest of the trip.  Watch your purse, though.  Lots of =
petty theft.  Also the fabric stores there sell Hawaiian print fabric if th=
at is interesting to you.  They also have shops dedicated to selling mumus.=
  Check the Yellow Pages when you get there if you can't find out any other=
 way.  There used to be a shop in Ala Moana mall that sold Hawaiian quiltin=
g themed items; they were nice to look at.  There should be Hawaiian style =
quilts on exhibit someplace.  Sorry I can't be more specific; it was eight =
years ago that I spent a few months there and my memory is hazy, plus a lot=
 may have changed.  Have fun!

P.S.  The number 8 bus runs up and down the main drag of Waikiki pretty fre=
quently and it is often easier to take the bus in this area as parking is t=
errible.  However if you are debating renting a car it is worth a day to ci=
rcumnavigate the island (1/4 tank of gas in an economy car).  The North Sho=
re is very pretty and the waves should still be quite high this time of yea=
r.  Also the Polynesian Cultural Center (run by the Mormons, incidentally, =
and next to their college campus) is very nice and is on the windward side =
of the island.  You can take the bus but it is a long ride.
----------------------------------------
> From: penny@costumegallery.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 00:42:06 -0500
> CC:=20
> Subject: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
>=20
> Saturday morning I am leaving for Honolulu, Hawaii...tagging along with m=
y husband on a business trip.  I will be returning Sunday the 17th.  Can an=
yone please suggest museums or places of interest for history, costume, and=
 fashion related.  I also love gardens and flowers.  I have planned to go t=
o the Palace, Pearl Harbor, and someone suggested the market where the Pro =
Bowl is held (of course after Sunday's game).  This person told me there is=
 a great market at the Pro Bowl arena during the week.  Is this true? =20
>=20
> I will be going to no mail for email lists Thursday night.  If you have s=
uggestions after that time, please email me privately.  I will be checking =
private email messages starting Monday-Friday from Hawaii.   =20
>  =20
> Penny Ladnier,=20
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Clarification:
Just looked at my post and something is unclear:  the fabric shops and mumu=
 shops are not at the Stadium.  They are various places in town.  The Stadi=
um is strictly for souvenir stuff.  I remember going on Wednesday.

-Kathy
----------------------------------------
> From: kstormy@hotmail.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
> Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 13:35:56 -0800
> CC:=20
>=20
>=20
> Yes, there is a great market at the stadium (forget what it is called) bu=
t I do not remember that is was everyday.  You can buy all the same Hawaii-=
theme souvenirs, seat covers, clothes, jewelry, etc. but it is cheaper than=
 elsewhere.  Worth it to do one-stop souvenir shopping then you can basical=
ly forget shopping the rest of the trip.  Watch your purse, though.  Lots o=
f petty theft.  Also the fabric stores there sell Hawaiian print fabric if =
that is interesting to you.  They also have shops dedicated to selling mumu=
s.  Check the Yellow Pages when you get there if you can't find out any oth=
er way.  There used to be a shop in Ala Moana mall that sold Hawaiian quilt=
ing themed items; they were nice to look at.  There should be Hawaiian styl=
e quilts on exhibit someplace.  Sorry I can't be more specific; it was eigh=
t years ago that I spent a few months there and my memory is hazy, plus a l=
ot may have changed.  Have fun!
>=20
> P.S.  The number 8 bus runs up and down the main drag of Waikiki pretty f=
requently and it is often easier to take the bus in this area as parking is=
 terrible.  However if you are debating renting a car it is worth a day to =
circumnavigate the island (1/4 tank of gas in an economy car).  The North S=
hore is very pretty and the waves should still be quite high this time of y=
ear.  Also the Polynesian Cultural Center (run by the Mormons, incidentally=
, and next to their college campus) is very nice and is on the windward sid=
e of the island.  You can take the bus but it is a long ride.
> ----------------------------------------
>> From: penny@costumegallery.com
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 00:42:06 -0500
>> CC:=20
>> Subject: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
>>=20
>> Saturday morning I am leaving for Honolulu, Hawaii...tagging along with =
my husband on a business trip.  I will be returning Sunday the 17th.  Can a=
nyone please suggest museums or places of interest for history, costume, an=
d fashion related.  I also love gardens and flowers.  I have planned to go =
to the Palace, Pearl Harbor, and someone suggested the market where the Pro=
 Bowl is held (of course after Sunday's game).  This person told me there i=
s a great market at the Pro Bowl arena during the week.  Is this true? =20
>>=20
>> I will be going to no mail for email lists Thursday night.  If you have =
suggestions after that time, please email me privately.  I will be checking=
 private email messages starting Monday-Friday from Hawaii.   =20
>>  =20
>> Penny Ladnier,=20
>> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>> www.costumegallery.com
>> www.costumelibrary.com
>> www.costumeclassroom.com
>> www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <penny@costumegallery.com>
References: <001c01c8694c$2d0914e0$6601a8c0@momlaptop>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
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Little China is really worth a visit too... One of the great things to do in 
Hawaii is snorkeling, but I didn't get to do any on Oahu so I can't direct 
you to any nice spots :-) The surfing's probably still good even though the 
main swells are probably over by now. If you get great surfing conditions 
it's worth a look, most good surfing spots are along the north-eastern part 
of the island.

I envy you, but then, I can't complain, I'm leaving for Japan in about 50 
days ;-)

Have a nice trip!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 12:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii


Saturday morning I am leaving for Honolulu, Hawaii...tagging along with my 
husband on a business trip.  I will be returning Sunday the 17th.  Can 
anyone please suggest museums or places of interest for history, costume, 
and fashion related.  I also love gardens and flowers.  I have planned to go 
to the Palace, Pearl Harbor, and someone suggested the market where the Pro 
Bowl is held (of course after Sunday's game).  This person told me there is 
a great market at the Pro Bowl arena during the week.  Is this true?

I will be going to no mail for email lists Thursday night.  If you have 
suggestions after that time, please email me privately.  I will be checking 
private email messages starting Monday-Friday from Hawaii.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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OOOH, yes! The PCC (Polynesian Cultural Center) was always a favorite place to go when I lived in Waipahu.


 
JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir


----- Original Message ----
From: Kathy Stormberg <kstormy@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2008 1:35:56 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii


Yes, there is a great market at the stadium (forget what it is called) but I do not remember that is was everyday.  You can buy all the same Hawaii-theme souvenirs, seat covers, clothes, jewelry, etc. but it is cheaper than elsewhere.  Worth it to do one-stop souvenir shopping then you can basically forget shopping the rest of the trip.  Watch your purse, though.  Lots of petty theft.  Also the fabric stores there sell Hawaiian print fabric if that is interesting to you.  They also have shops dedicated to selling mumus.  Check the Yellow Pages when you get there if you can't find out any other way.  There used to be a shop in Ala Moana mall that sold Hawaiian quilting themed items; they were nice to look at.  There should be Hawaiian style quilts on exhibit someplace.  Sorry I can't be more specific; it was eight years ago that I spent a few months there and my memory is hazy, plus a lot may have changed.  Have fun!

P.S.  The number 8 bus runs up and down the main drag of Waikiki pretty frequently and it is often easier to take the bus in this area as parking is terrible.  However if you are debating renting a car it is worth a day to circumnavigate the island (1/4 tank of gas in an economy car).  The North Shore is very pretty and the waves should still be quite high this time of year.  Also the Polynesian Cultural Center (run by the Mormons, incidentally, and next to their college campus) is very nice and is on the windward side of the island.  You can take the bus but it is a long ride.
----------------------------------------
> From: penny@costumegallery.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 00:42:06 -0500
> CC: 
> Subject: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
> 
> Saturday morning I am leaving for Honolulu, Hawaii...tagging along with my husband on a business trip.  I will be returning Sunday the 17th.  Can anyone please suggest museums or places of interest for history, costume, and fashion related.  I also love gardens and flowers.  I have planned to go to the Palace, Pearl Harbor, and someone suggested the market where the Pro Bowl is held (of course after Sunday's game).  This person told me there is a great market at the Pro Bowl arena during the week.  Is this true?  
> 
> I will be going to no mail for email lists Thursday night.  If you have suggestions after that time, please email me privately.  I will be checking private email messages starting Monday-Friday from Hawaii.    
>  
> Penny Ladnier, 
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick suggestions for Hawaii
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Thanks to everyone who responded with the wonderful suggestions.  My husband 
will be working during the day, so I have that time to explore the island.

If anyone has more suggestions, please email me off-list.  I am now going to 
no mail for h-costume.

Thanks again,
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest
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While I was browsing the British Library's=20
Integrated Catalogue (using the search terms=20
"costume thesis"), I ran across the following of=20
interest. After several years of trying to=20
interlibrary loan British theses and=20
dissertations from every library in the state=20
(universities and my local), I have given up and=20
started to selectively purchase them (usually not=20
TOO expensive as microform.. except those from=20
Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?

Thanks,
Beth Matney

Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland=20
1406-1460..  University of London, 1987.. DX189880
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-=
19633?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000010&format=3D99=
9

Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with=20
special reference to the visual history of=20
costume in his era..  University of Lancaster, 1993.. DX228822
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-=
78349?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000008&format=3D99=
9

Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the=20
dress in some of Durer's paintings and drawings /=20
(London : University of London, 1992.)  thesis DX231935
2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-=
63366?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000011&format=3D99=
9

Sig=FCenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir=20
en la pintura g=F3tica aragonesa / (Zaragoza=20
[Spain] : Instituci=F3n "Fernando el Cat=F3lico",=20
Excma. Diputaci=F3n de Zaragoza, 2000.)
  YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764)
257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented=20
as the author=92s thesis, Universidad de Zaragoza,=20
1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. 183-190) and index.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-=
61578?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000018&format=3D99=
9

Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des=20
Graberfeldes von Liebenau, Kr. Nienburg/Weser :=20
vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der=20
fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen im Spannungsfeld=20
zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.)
  X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.))
386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented=20
as the author=92s thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998.=20
Includes bibliographical references.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-=
51792?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000023&format=3D99=
9

While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements=20
in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer=20
Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm
Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule=20
Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 62355641
also in King's College London - Courtauld=20
Institute of Art Library ; Theses K4708 HAR =20

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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 11:01:35 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] lace supplier
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Has anyone, especially those in the US, used this company for cotton laces:

http://cottonlace.com/

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: [h-cost] Grant offer in Germany Pls pass on
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I'm not subscribed to any of the sca mailing lists, but i ran into 
this stipend on my Russian grants LJ group, and maybe people on the 
SCA lists might be interested.

www.hab.de/forschung/stipendien/
http://www.hab.de/forschung/stipendien/post_doc-e.htm

This is a grant for library research on the Middle Ages and Early 
Modern Era. Intended for postdocs (or, as the Russian so quaintly 
says, "people who have just defended their dissertations"). They pay 
1000 or 1600 Euro per month, plus travel expenses to Wolfenbeuttel.



       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 10:22:10 -0600
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a thesis =
loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at best.

Dissertation Abstracts International is the best source to actually =
purchase a copy, but there are many theses that simply aren't available, =
especially anything older than ten years. And they aren't cheap. I =
purchased a bound two volume thesis about 25+ years ago I badly needed =
for a paper and it was $30 then. No, it wasn't historic costume related, =
but I still have it(Like this cost me a whole $30 and I had to eat =
peanut butter sandwiches for lunch for a month to make up the cost of it =
and the rest of my interlibrary loans for the stupid paper which I did =
snag an A for anyway!).
Cindy Abel


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:01 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

While I was browsing the British Library's Integrated Catalogue (using =
the search terms "costume thesis"), I ran across the following of =
interest. After several years of trying to interlibrary loan British =
theses and dissertations from every library in the state (universities =
and my local), I have given up and started to selectively purchase them =
(usually not TOO expensive as microform.. except those from =
Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?

Thanks,
Beth Matney

Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 1406-1460..  University of =
London, 1987.. DX189880
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9IT=
X6-19633?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000010&forma=
t=3D999

Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with special reference to the =
visual history of costume in his era..  University of Lancaster, 1993.. =
DX228822
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9IT=
X6-78349?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000008&forma=
t=3D999

Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the dress in some of =
Durer's paintings and drawings / (London : University of London, 1992.)  =
thesis DX231935
2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9IT=
X6-63366?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000011&forma=
t=3D999

Sig=FCenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir en la pintura =
g=F3tica aragonesa / (Zaragoza [Spain] : Instituci=F3n "Fernando el =
Cat=F3lico", Excma. Diputaci=F3n de Zaragoza, 2000.)
  YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764)
257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented as the author's thesis, =
Universidad de Zaragoza, 1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. =
183-190) and index.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9IT=
X6-61578?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000018&forma=
t=3D999

Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des Graberfeldes von =
Liebenau, Kr. Nienburg/Weser :=20
vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen =
im Spannungsfeld zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.)
  X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.))
386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented as the author's =
thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998.=20
Includes bibliographical references.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9IT=
X6-51792?func=3Dfull-set-set&set_number=3D075256&set_entry=3D000023&forma=
t=3D999

While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English =
Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) =
249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule =
Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 62355641 also in King's College London - =
Courtauld Institute of Art Library ; Theses K4708 HAR =20

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Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> While I was browsing the British Library's Integrated Catalogue (using 
> the search terms "costume thesis"), I ran across the following of 
> interest. After several years of trying to interlibrary loan British 
> theses and dissertations from every library in the state (universities 
> and my local), I have given up and started to selectively purchase them 
> (usually not TOO expensive as microform.. except those from 
> Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?

> 
> Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 1406-1460..  University of 
> London, 1987.. DX189880
> http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-set&set_number=075256&set_entry=000010&format=999 

I saw pieces of this spread out on her living room floor in 1989! I'm 
surprised the degree has such a late date on it, as this is the work 
that got Margaret Scott the job of writing the 14th-15th c. volume of 
the Visual History of Dress series in the mid-1980s. She studied at the 
Courtauld, and IIRC almost no one there was doing work in the medieval 
period at the time. I don't know if anyone else has ever done an 
in-depth study of Scottish medieval dress. Among the little I recall, 
she showed how Scotland got much of its influence from Flanders, as 
England got its influence from France. I've noticed that bits and pieces 
of this worked its way into her other writing over the years.


> While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
> The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English 
> Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 
> 249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm
> Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 
> 62355641
> also in King's College London - Courtauld Institute of Art Library ; 
> Theses K4708 HAR 

Jennifer Harris is absolutely top-notch for 12th century, and one of the 
few costume historians out there working in this era who has an eye for 
practical clothing construction issues and not just literary and 
rhetorical aspects. This should be good.

--Robin
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A standard thesis (PhD) from the BL (most later UK theses) run about 
31GPB (or $50 if you can get them to use the international price 
list) for microform or about double for a paperbound single vol... 
and then there is Cambridge... where you must get it directly from 
the University Library at much higher prices. The last quote that I 
got from them (on a 2 vol) was over 200GBP (beyond my price range). 
Those through BL are easy to get through BL Direct with a credit 
card. If in the UK, you can ILL most through BL. The ones from USA 
are very easy.. UMI will sell direct for about $35 (paper, unbound) 
or many university libraries subscribe to an electronic service and 
students can download them for free. If in the UK, BL users can also 
access those from UMI (up to 1Sept 2001).

If someone needs help navigating BL, drop me a note.

Beth

At 11:06 AM 2/8/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 10:22:10 -0600
>From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
>
>Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a 
>thesis loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at best.
>
>Dissertation Abstracts International is the best source to actually 
>purchase a copy, but there are many theses that simply aren't 
>available, especially anything older than ten years. And they aren't 
>cheap. I purchased a bound two volume thesis about 25+ years ago I 
>badly needed for a paper and it was $30 then. No, it wasn't historic 
>costume related, but I still have it(Like this cost me a whole $30 
>and I had to eat peanut butter sandwiches for lunch for a month to 
>make up the cost of it and the rest of my interlibrary loans for the 
>stupid paper which I did snag an A for anyway!).
>Cindy Abel

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Hawaii
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I was just in Hawaii--the same area in November/December. The Aloha stadium  
has the market but on game days it closes at 2 pm the other days it is later-- 
Open every Wednesday, Saturdays  and Sundays from 6am-3pm. There is a $1 fee 
per person over age 11 also.  There are a number of booths that sell clothes 
and a few that sell  Hawaiian print material there. Their website is: 
_http://www.alohastadiumswapmeet.net/_ (http://www.alohastadiumswapmeet.net/) 
 
Hilo Hatties  (_http://www.hilohattie.com/_ (http://www.hilohattie.com/) ) is 
another  great store to got to. They are a good place to get food at plus 
coffee. If you  want to bring home pineapples this is a great place to get them 
as they are  packed with the approved agricultural stamp for "customs"--this 
applies for  anything going out of the state--even to the rest of the US. Each 
airline allows  for so many to be brought on the airplane in addition to your 
luggage without a  penalty--they will tell you the current regulations if you 
ask. For an added fee  they will mail them directly to your house also--their 
name brand stuff can be  mailed home also. If you check in the discount area of 
Hilo Hatties there might  be some wrap skirts that are on the larger size but 
for a great deal. I bought  one of those to remake into something my size as 
I loved the print and the price  was right.
 
Here are some good websites to check out: _http://www.visit-oahu.com/_ 
(http://www.visit-oahu.com/) 
_http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/_ (http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/) 
_http://www.internationalmarketplacewaikiki.com/_ 
(http://www.internationalmarketplacewaikiki.com/) 
_http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/_ (http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/) 
Shopping--  
_http://www.gohawaii.com/search?types=listings%2Cevents&location=41&category=574&subcategory=&q_ 
(http://www.gohawaii.com/search?types=listings,events&location=41&category=574&subcategory=&q) =
 
If you use a credit card the stores are big on asking to see id. This was  
something I was not used to and did not have id with me one time--it was in the  
car. Also if you go to downtown Wiakiki parking is free at the meters on  
weekends. It might be after 5 also but I did not go there at night. There is a  
great Cheese Cake Factory restaurant down there also.
There are lots of one way streets also in Wiakiki and we had to turn around  
alot. 
I hope this helps.
Kelly  
m311@aol.com
www.mysensaria.com/time2spa  






**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
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I did a bit more literature search through Copac.. Here are some more 
that I found of interest. I think that another trip to London is in 
order... (my next scheduled is 2010 when the V&A and the Ashmolean 
expansions are complete). <grin>

Beth

Shirazi-Mahajan, Faegheh. Costumes and textile designs of the 
Il-Khanid, Timurid and Safavid dynasties in Iran from the thirteenth 
to the seventeenth century. thesis (Ph.D.) - Ohio State University, 
1985. 287 pp. OCLC:82926908 UMI 8519027

Toplis, Alison. The dress of the Merovingian court in the Frankish 
kingdom, circa 450 - 700 A.D. : a study in early medieval dress. 
vi,88 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. Notes:Dissertation: 
(MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1993.

Ashelford, Jane. Emblems in English costume and furnishing, 
1560-1612. 2 v. in 1 : ill.; 28 cm.. Notes:Plates 6, 34, 44 & 49 are 
missing. Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 1973. Includes bibliographical references.

Hamnett, Melissa. Fashioning a self : issues of identity surrounding 
women's dress in England, 1590-1640..:viii, 165 leaves : ill., ports. 
; 30 cm. Bibliography : leaves 159-165. Typescript. Submitted to 
fulfill the requirements of the M.A. in the History of Design, 
jointly run by the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Royal College 
of Art. Thesis (M.A.) -- Royal College of Art. 2004. Location: V&A Libraries

Currie, Elizabeth.  A Florentine family wardrobe 1566-1606.125 
leaves, [44] leaves of plates : ill., general. table ; 30 cm. 
Bibliography : leaves 120-125. Glossary. Notes: Submitted to fulfill 
requirement of M.A. History of Design course jointly run by the Royal 
College of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum. Typescript. 
Thesis(M.A.)--Royal College of Art, 1998. Location: V&A Libraries

Drum, Karen. Footwear of the early Tudor period, 1485-1550 : and a 
catalogue of the early Tudor footwear collection of the Department of 
Costume, Museum of London.:2 v. in 1 : ill. ; 31 cm. Includes 
bibliographical references. Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of 
London (Courtauld Institute of Art), 1982.

Fingerlin, Ilse. Gurtel des hohen und spaten Mittelalters. 
(Series:Kunstwissenschaftliche Studien (Deutscher Kunstverlag) ; Bd. 
46). Published: [Munchen] : Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1971. 495 p. : 
ill. ; 26 cm. Bibliography: p. 300-301. ISBN: ISBN:3422006451 9783422006454
OCLC:1446877 (37 US libraries) Notes:A revision of the author's 
thesis, Freiburg i.B., 1967.

Dubner-Manthey, Birgit. Die Gurtelgehange als Trager von 
Kleingeraten, Amuletten und Anhangern symbolischer Bedeutung im 
Rahmen der fruhmittelalterlichen Frauentract : archaologische 
Untersuchungen zu einem charakteristischen Bestandteil der weiblichen 
Tracht. Published: [s.n., Berlin], 1987. :200 p. : ill. ; 21 cm. 
Includes bibliographical references (p. 7-22). Notes:Thesis 
(doctoral)--Freie Universitat Berlin, 1987

Straw, Amanda Louise. An investigation into the work of Hans Holbein 
the Younger as a source for understanding Englishwomen's headwear, 
c.1526-1543. 48 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1995

Deevy, Mary B. Medieval ring brooches in Ireland : a study of 
jewellery, dress, and society . (Series:Wordwell monograph series ; 
no. 1) Published: Bray, Co. Wicklow : Wordwell, 1998. ix, 142 p : 
ill. (some col.), maps ; 25 cm..Includes bibliographical references 
(p. 75-85). ISBN: 1869857240. OCLC:40135497 (17 US libraries) 
Notes:This book is based on an M.A. thesis submitted to the 
Department of Archaeology, University College Dublin, 1995.

Lehner, Julia. Die Mode im alten Nurnberg : modische Entwicklung und 
sozialer Wandel in Nu rnberg, aufgezeigt an den Nurnberger 
Kleiderordnungen (Series:Nurnberger Werkstu cke zur Stadt- und 
Landesgeschichte ; Bd. 36) Published: Nurnberg : Stadtarchiv Nurnberg 
: Auslieferung, Universita tsbuchhandlung Korn und Berg, 1984. :xi, 
288 p : ill ; 21 cmI. ncludes index, Bibliography: p. 275-280. ISBN: 
3874320952 OCLC:60011742 18154420 (15 US libraries)
Notes:Originally presented as the author's thesis 
(doctoral)--Universitat Erlangen-Nurnberg, 1984

Symonds, Anna. Queen of Kings : the dress of Anne of Denmark. 129 
leaves : ill. ; 31cm. Bibliography : leaves 100 - 107. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 2002

Dawson, Elizabeth. Some aspects of court entertainment in fifteenth 
century Burgundy : with special reference to Olivier de la Marche's 
descriptions of the theatrical costumes worn at the Feast of the 
Pheasant in 1454 and at Charles the Bold's wedding banquet in 
1468.:90 leaves ; 32 cm. Includes bibliographical references. 
Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute of 
Art), 1989.

Hill, Virginia Arabella Maria. Women's dress at the court of the 
Sforza : a study of the foreign influences on the fashions worn at 
the princely courts of Northern Italy in the second half of the 
fifteenth century.:56 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1993


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 18:19:54 -0800
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On Feb 8, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

> Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a  
> thesis loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at  
> best.

Just a comment from the university point of view on the question:   
Very often the university has only a single copy of a thesis  
available to the public -- I know U.C. Berkeley only as a single copy  
of mine.  And that one copy is the "proof" that it was ever written  
in the first place.  (My department also has a copy, but it isn't for  
public circulation.)  So the consequences of that copy going  
walkabout while off on interlibrary loan are fairly dire.   This  
might explain why they're a little leery of lending them out.

Heather
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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 21:34:00 -0500
From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to 
dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and 
silk (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).

I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says 
"dry clean only, short cycle" but also says "light steam, light press".  
I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey, 
I've got "allergy skin" - the fewer chemicals up against it the 
better)... but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that 
combination with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about 
the combo.  My *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of 
the fabric, not in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish "leaf " 
patterned slightly shinier than the matte black of the rest of the material.

Anyone out there able to say either "probably ok" or "definitely 
don't"?  It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out 
by totally messing it up before wearing.


Fingers crossed!
-Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck 
of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make 
something before I need it in March)

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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 22:26:51 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
says dry clean, then dryclean.
Monica
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cozit / Liz
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:34 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to
dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and
silk (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).

I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says
"dry clean only, short cycle" but also says "light steam, light press".
I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey,
I've got "allergy skin" - the fewer chemicals up against it the
better)... but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that
combination with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about
the combo.  My *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of
the fabric, not in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish "leaf "
patterned slightly shinier than the matte black of the rest of the material.

Anyone out there able to say either "probably ok" or "definitely
don't"?  It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out
by totally messing it up before wearing.


Fingers crossed!
-Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck
of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make
something before I need it in March)

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I'd dry clean it also.  However, do you have a cleaners that uses the 
CO-2 cleaning method?   It uses far less chemicals and lower temps 
than regular dry cleaning processes.  Since we got one in our town 
(Here in Lincoln, Nebraska, the chain is "Hangers"), I haven't used 
anyone else, and have had good results, including getting cigarette 
smoke smell out of a wool beret.

Another argument for dry cleaning - rayon can shrink, even in cold 
water on gentle - I washed the top of a rayon pantsuit after spilling 
something on it - it shrank enough that I couldn't button it 
after.  It might make your dress look like it was made of "bubble" 
fabric - not a good thing.

Sandy

At 08:34 PM 2/8/2008, you wrote:

>I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It 
>says "dry clean only, short cycle" but also says "light steam, light press".
>I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also 
>(hey, I've got "allergy skin" - the fewer chemicals up against it 
>the better)...
>
>-Liz
>_______________________________________________

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lace supplier
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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No, but I can see why you'd want to, especially if
those samples really are cotton lace.

Ann in CT

--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone, especially those in the US, used this
> company for cotton laces:
> 
> http://cottonlace.com/
> 
> Katy



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monica spence wrote:
> I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
> says dry clean, then dryclean.

Most of the time the tag says "dry clean" because the manufacturer 
doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is "safe". They are 
required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is too 
much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular fabric 
or a  line of clothing. So it says "dry clean" and they are covered.

It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you 
are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or 
cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low 
iron setting.


Dawn

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The pictures are somewhat the same as for Capitol Laces of which I have 
samples; I have not seen many of these patterns reproduced in poly.  They 
sure look like antique Val lace.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ann Catelli" <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lace supplier


> No, but I can see why you'd want to, especially if
> those samples really are cotton lace.
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone, especially those in the US, used this
>> company for cotton laces:
>>
>> http://cottonlace.com/
>>
>> Katy
>
>
>
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. 
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 11:05:43 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
In-reply-to: <47AD4515.7000409@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked in
the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and technical
desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality Assurance
program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer lets
manufacturers  put a "dry clean only " tag on a garment. A manufacturer must
allow the customer  the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged by
the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then the
MFG. can say on their tag "Cold water only" or "Dry clean only" etc. Mfgs no
longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting "Use dry
bleach when necessary" tag on their girl's swimwear.

If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something happens,
you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
necessarily the store's problem.

Monica







-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


monica spence wrote:
> I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
> says dry clean, then dryclean.

Most of the time the tag says "dry clean" because the manufacturer
doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is "safe". They are
required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is too
much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular fabric
or a  line of clothing. So it says "dry clean" and they are covered.

It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you
are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or
cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low
iron setting.


Dawn

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 09:36:44 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Do you have any idea where one finds these instructions?  I have a 
small online clothing business and put "dry clean only" on a lot of my 
tags.  I'd like further information on the legalities.

Sylrog

On Feb 9, 2008, at 9:05 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked 
> in
> the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and 
> technical
> desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality 
> Assurance
> program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer 
> lets
> manufacturers  put a "dry clean only " tag on a garment. A 
> manufacturer must
> allow the customer  the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
> water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged 
> by
> the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then 
> the
> MFG. can say on their tag "Cold water only" or "Dry clean only" etc. 
> Mfgs no
> longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
> because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
> deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting 
> "Use dry
> bleach when necessary" tag on their girl's swimwear.
>
> If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something 
> happens,
> you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
> Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
> necessarily the store's problem.
>
> Monica
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:16 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
>
>
> monica spence wrote:
>> I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the 
>> tag
>> says dry clean, then dryclean.
>
> Most of the time the tag says "dry clean" because the manufacturer
> doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is "safe". They are
> required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is 
> too
> much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular 
> fabric
> or a  line of clothing. So it says "dry clean" and they are covered.
>
> It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you
> are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or
> cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low
> iron setting.
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 11:58:05 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
In-reply-to: <f896e4f82e921407dff81e4a28cdad7f@ntw.net>
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Hi!
Try the Federal Trade Commission website.

I don't know if small busnesses are "required" to test, but if your garments
are sold in certain stores, you will be. The big stores and catalogues
(Wal-mart, Target, Sears, JC Penney, Disney, etc.) that I worked with
required testing and provided HUGE manuals. They also  told us to use
specific testing labs that knew  the store requirements. The outcomes of the
tests were sent to the stores and the manufacturer.

Testing is really expensive. It is one of the reason that 95% of US
manufacturinng has gone off-shore to places where a worker makes 30 cents an
hour. But that is another discussion. :-(

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


Do you have any idea where one finds these instructions?  I have a
small online clothing business and put "dry clean only" on a lot of my
tags.  I'd like further information on the legalities.

Sylrog

On Feb 9, 2008, at 9:05 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked
> in
> the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and
> technical
> desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality
> Assurance
> program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer
> lets
> manufacturers  put a "dry clean only " tag on a garment. A
> manufacturer must
> allow the customer the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
> water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged
> by
> the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then
> the
> MFG. can say on their tag "Cold water only" or "Dry clean only" etc.
> Mfgs no
> longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
> because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
> deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting
> "Use dry
> bleach when necessary" tag on their girl's swimwear.
>
> If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something
> happens,
> you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
> Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
> necessarily the store's problem.
>
> Monica
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:16 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
>
>
> monica spence wrote:
>> I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the
>> tag
>> says dry clean, then dryclean.
>
> Most of the time the tag says "dry clean" because the manufacturer
> doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is "safe". They are
> required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is
> too
> much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular
> fabric
> or a  line of clothing. So it says "dry clean" and they are covered.
>
> It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you
> are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or
> cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low
> iron setting.
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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I know that should be the case in theory... but I've a linen shirt 
(embroidered with a synthetic), and a rayon dress that I've bought in 
the last year - both have "dry clean only"... and both have been hand 
washed and delicate cycle cold water (just got a no-agitator top-loader) 
quite a number of times and they look "like new" still.  There might be 
a minimal amount of fading, but not so you'd notice unless maybe if you 
had a slip of the fabric when it was new.  I've got older items that are 
the same way.  All of *those*, however have been cheaper and not a 
needed in a fairly short amount of time... so I've been willing to 
experiment.

This one I'm still not sure what I'll do with - mostly because it *is* 
black, and mostly rayon.  The only reason I figured on hoping for the 
best (and I may try it after the trip) is because it had the "light 
steam" -  which indicates that the issue shouldn't be shrinkage, as any 
steam would affect the material negatively if it were a concern.  Oh, 
actually there's another reason as well... it's feel is rather different 
from most rayon and rayon blends that I've come across with that label.  
It's softer - almost feels like it's been washed already... and the 
chemical itch I often get from trying on new clothes wasn't there.

Now I have to figure out whether to dry clean it before the trip or 
not.  One chemical or the other it's going to be a bother.  I really 
wish I had the time to make something out of material I trust... ah well.


Thanks all!
-Liz

>From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
>
>Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked in
>the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and technical
>desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality Assurance
>program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer lets
>manufacturers  put a "dry clean only " tag on a garment. A manufacturer must
>allow the customer  the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
>water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged by
>the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then the
>MFG. can say on their tag "Cold water only" or "Dry clean only" etc. Mfgs no
>longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
>because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
>deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting "Use dry
>bleach when necessary" tag on their girl's swimwear.
>
>If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something happens,
>you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
>Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
>necessarily the store's problem.
>
>Monica
>
>
>
>
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
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>From Mary Corbet/Needle'n Thread.com:
   
  Good news - there is a supplier in the US. You can purchase Pearsall's - approximately 350 shades in 75 color categories - from An Itch to Stitch.

Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
  Check Hedgehog Handworks in the L.A. area. I don't know if she has it, but
she's certainly got a lot of wonderful lines of threads.

LynnD


On 2/1/08, margaret wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk
> Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone
> now
> and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
> Margaret
>
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http://www.tristanbrooks.com/Pearsalls/silk.htm

outlets
http://www.tristanbrooks.com/Pearsalls/Retail.htm

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Hi Liz,
if it was just the fabric and not a finished garment, IŽd definately wash it. It sounds like the warp and weft threads make the shiny pattern. But on a finished garment, I donŽt know if the cycle of the washing machine might crease the lining or interfacing so much that a light iron canŽt remove the creases. 
However, as you mentioned allergy-skin, you might try just hanging the dress out in a rainy night and drip dry. The rain will wash out most odors and dust, and probably a good deal of the chemicals in the material as well. This is a good trick for wool clothing that needs to be refreshed but canŽt stand frequent washing. And thereŽs not cycle in the rain, besides perhaps a little wind.
Hope this helps,
Hanna


-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 21:34:00 -0500
> Von: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
> An: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Betreff: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

> I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to 
> dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and 
> silk (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).
> 
> I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says 
> "dry clean only, short cycle" but also says "light steam, light press".  
> I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey, 
> I've got "allergy skin" - the fewer chemicals up against it the 
> better)... but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that 
> combination with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about 
> the combo.  My *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of 
> the fabric, not in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish "leaf " 
> patterned slightly shinier than the matte black of the rest of the
> material.
> 
> Anyone out there able to say either "probably ok" or "definitely 
> don't"?  It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out 
> by totally messing it up before wearing.
> 
> 
> Fingers crossed!
> -Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck 
> of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make 
> something before I need it in March)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: quick fabric washing question ,
	...........my 2 pence
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I wonder if the dye has anything to do with "shrinkability", I bought, from the same mfg, 2 "hawaiian" print shirts - same size,cut  and pattern.One was a red background, one was blue-washed both in cold water, the red one stayed the same size, the blue one shrunk a full size.
  In my realm, if fabric does not "survive " washing, I don't use it for good garb. I just work around what left of the yardage and get on with it.
  I figure ,people in the "old days" didn't have dry cleaning, (which I personally detest,sitting and perspiring in a soup of toxic chemicals next to your skin- the largest organ in your body, is not my idea of healthy) silk and wool were not dry cleaned in the past, it was washed ,if only daubbed with water.
  for what its worth.....
  Melody 
  
Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
  I'd dry clean it also. However, do you have a cleaners that uses the 
CO-2 cleaning method? 
Sandy

At 08:34 PM 2/8/2008, you wrote:

>I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.>
>-Liz
>_______________________________________________

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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Hannah, thanks for this "new" idea. I'd heard of laying wool garments in
the snow to freshen and clean, but not rain. How do you keep the garment
from stretching when it gets heavy with water?=20

Curiously,

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann


....However, as you mentioned allergy-skin, you might try just hanging
the dress out in a rainy night and drip dry. The rain will wash out most
odors and dust, and probably a good deal of the chemicals in the
material as well. This is a good trick for wool clothing that needs to
be refreshed but can=B4t stand frequent washing. And there=B4s not cycle =
in
the rain, besides perhaps a little wind.
Hope this helps,
Hanna


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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IMO, you'd probably be okay in a wash bag in cold water and short cycle, but 
I wouldn't risk it directly in the machine. Rayon gets much more fragile 
when it's wet and can shrink. Watch out for those colours, sometimes they 
run badly on "dry-clean-only" items, especially the cheaper ones. You can 
usually find out how bad it is by rubbing a damp light-coloured towel on the 
inside of a hem - if your towel turns the colour of the fabric... well you 
get the idea :-)

I chuck most everything in the machine, even when it says dry clean only, 
except when it's something structured, lined and/or interfaced like a suit 
or a coat (even then, most modern sports coats can't be dry cleaned, you 
have to wash them in a front-loader). But I do put the fragile items in a 
wash bag and wash in cold water on a short, delicate cycle.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cozit / Liz" <imcozit@verizon.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


> I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to 
> dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and silk 
> (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).
>
> I just bought a "nice dress" that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says 
> "dry clean only, short cycle" but also says "light steam, light press". 
> I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey, 
> I've got "allergy skin" - the fewer chemicals up against it the better)... 
> but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that combination 
> with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about the combo.  My 
> *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of the fabric, not 
> in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish "leaf " patterned slightly 
> shinier than the matte black of the rest of the material.
>
> Anyone out there able to say either "probably ok" or "definitely don't"? 
> It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out by totally 
> messing it up before wearing.
>
>
> Fingers crossed!
> -Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck 
> of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make something 
> before I need it in March)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Message-ID: <012701c86c0e$44024300$6d01a8c0@p4audrey>
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIGEGAFKAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 12:56:29 -0500
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> Mfgs no
> longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
> because it is convenient or safe.

Then why do they insist on putting "dry clean only" on unlined, 100% linen 
pants? Lined I'd understand, because if they shrink then the lining will be 
too big, but unlined??

100% cotton jeans shrink and they don't put a "dry clean" tag on them, why 
would they do it for linen if it's because of the shrinkage? Becase people 
don't know how to iron them after they've been washed? It's certainly not 
because of the dye (the two pairs of pants in question were white and 
natural-coloured)... then why? 

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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
In-reply-to: <012701c86c0e$44024300$6d01a8c0@p4audrey>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Linen shrinks an enormous amount. Especially if it is not pre-washed. Most
linen used in Mfg. is not prewashed/preshrunk because the finish will come
off and it will look terrible. The linen garment is also usually tailored
differently than denim. The fibers of linen react much dirrerent than cotton
to water. Lots of denim today is preshrunk and "distressed", so a lot of the
shrink factor is gone by the time it is cut and sewn.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


> Mfgs no
> longer have the luxury of putting the "Dry clean only" tag on a garment
> because it is convenient or safe.

Then why do they insist on putting "dry clean only" on unlined, 100% linen
pants? Lined I'd understand, because if they shrink then the lining will be
too big, but unlined??

100% cotton jeans shrink and they don't put a "dry clean" tag on them, why
would they do it for linen if it's because of the shrinkage? Becase people
don't know how to iron them after they've been washed? It's certainly not
because of the dye (the two pairs of pants in question were white and
natural-coloured)... then why?

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:54:17 -0500
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Well, I guess I have the right approach then. I hate the sizing they put on 
linen because I think it makes it look terrible (as soon as you move it 
wrinkles, and there's no way to take the wrinkles out after that). When you 
wash it the sizing goes out, the fabric is softer, and the wrinkles are much 
less apparent and much more natural. You do have to iron it with a water 
bottle though, or it doesn't look as good.

And I think it's a good thing those garments shrink :-) Stores where I 
normally wear a size 2, for example, when they have linen garments the size 
0 is still to big for me. I still haven't figured out why they always cut 
the linen things so *** big! :-)

Actually, I wasn't thinking so much as today's blue jeans (they all have 
spandex or one of those stretchy materials nowadays, so they never shrink 
and you have to remember to buy them too small or they fall off when you 
wear them), but the ones I was wearing about 10 years ago, before stretchy 
became the way to go. I remember having a pair hemmed after washing once, 
and needing to redo the hem because it shrank again after the second 
washing.

But that's also true of linen. I now wash my fabric (not the already made 
garments) on hot twice before I use it.... won't get caught twice at the 
double-shrinking thing!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:16 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


> Linen shrinks an enormous amount. Especially if it is not pre-washed. Most
> linen used in Mfg. is not prewashed/preshrunk because the finish will come
> off and it will look terrible. The linen garment is also usually tailored
> differently than denim. The fibers of linen react much dirrerent than 
> cotton
> to water. Lots of denim today is preshrunk and "distressed", so a lot of 
> the
> shrink factor is gone by the time it is cut and sewn.
>
> Monica 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question
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If you think your fabric might stretch, you can=20
lay it flat on a "clothes-line-stand" (I don=B4t=20
know what Fluegelwaeschetrockner is in English -=20
it=B4s a frame thing with wires between) with a=20
towel underneath so that it cannot sag and=20
stretch between the wires. There are also frames=20
with net available in some stores, for drying knit sweaters.

At 13:19 10.02.2008, you wrote:
>Hannah, thanks for this "new" idea. I'd heard of laying wool garments in
>the snow to freshen and clean, but not rain. How do you keep the garment
>from stretching when it gets heavy with water?
>
>Curiously,
>
>Linda
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
>
>
>....However, as you mentioned allergy-skin, you might try just hanging
>the dress out in a rainy night and drip dry. The rain will wash out most
>odors and dust, and probably a good deal of the chemicals in the
>material as well. This is a good trick for wool clothing that needs to
>be refreshed but can=B4t stand frequent washing. And there=B4s not cycle in
>the rain, besides perhaps a little wind.
>Hope this helps,
>Hanna
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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In a message dated 2/10/2008 12:56:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
audreybmorin@gmail.com writes:

Then why  do they insist on putting "dry clean only" on unlined, 100% linen  
pants?


***************
 
 
Because no one irons anymore.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
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Subject: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets
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Some friends asked me to upload these and I thought that some of you 
might be interested as well.

Here are images of two hair nets
1st half of the 14th C. Note the 38 heraldic devices on this one.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c48.jpg

2nd half of the 14th C
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg

Enjoy!
Beth Matney

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Or owns an iron.  We helped a friend when she needed 2 dance recital 
outfits altered for her young daughters.  They were a mess.  The 
straps were waaaay too long on both of them (the reason for 
altering), which we can understand.  However, they were crossover 
spaghetti straps, 2 on each side.  The two dresses - supposedly 
identical - had the straps on one hopelessly tangled when they were 
stitched down.  She said that these were very expensive dresses (like 
$40 or $50 for each), and there was maybe 1/4 yard spandex and 1 yard 
of tulle in them.  Go figure.  And, of course, the tulle was all 
scrunched up from shipping.  We told her she would have to press the 
skirts, and she looked at us like we were from Mars - she didn't own an iron.

Sandy

At 02:23 PM 2/10/2008, you wrote:
>In a message dated 2/10/2008 12:56:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>audreybmorin@gmail.com writes:
>
>Then why  do they insist on putting "dry clean only" on unlined, 100% linen
>pants?
>
>***************
>  Because no one irons anymore.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets
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How very, very cool, thank you.

Is this one woven (for lack of a better word) braid with spangles at  
the intersections?

> 2nd half of the 14th C
> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg


emma

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Subject: [h-cost] Job opening: asst. professor, costume design
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Just saw posted an ad for this:

Assistant Professor of Costume Design (tenure-track appointment)
University of Missouri - St. Louis

It's the second one on this page:
https://tomsawyer.umsl.edu/webapps/weboffice/acadjobs/unitlisting.cfm?id=7

I should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts center.

--Robin
no affiliation
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Job opening: asst. professor, costume design
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In a message dated 2/11/2008 8:08:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:


I  should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts  center.



I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume  
shop--and didn't put it in the basement!
 
Ann Wass



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<<?I? should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts? center.

I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume? 
shop--and didn't put it in the basement!>>

With no windows and no place to store anything.? Oh, and no ventillation.....
?
Ann Wass



Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe

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At 15:14 11/02/2008, you wrote:
><<?I? should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts? center.
>
>I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume?
>shop--and didn't put it in the basement!>>
>
>With no windows and no place to store anything.? Oh, and no ventillation.....
>?
>Ann Wass
>
>
>
>Cheryl Odom
>College of Santa Fe


And stairs of course, not elevators!

Suzi 

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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 11:08:43 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume shop
In-reply-to: <7.0.1.0.2.20080211153506.036efcf0@suziclarke.co.uk>
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I think most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
one, much less worked in one!
Monica
Former Grad Assistant at the SUNY-Binghamton Costume shop (a LONG time aga)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop


At 15:14 11/02/2008, you wrote:
><<?I? should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts?
center.
>
>I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume?
>shop--and didn't put it in the basement!>>
>
>With no windows and no place to store anything.? Oh, and no
ventillation.....
>?
>Ann Wass
>
>
>
>Cheryl Odom
>College of Santa Fe


And stairs of course, not elevators!

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop
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In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
monicaspence@optonline.net writes:

I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
one, much  less worked in one!



And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but sit in  
the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space please!!!! Not just in 
 the wings. It would be nice to not have to go out in the parking lot to 
cross  from stage left to stage right during a performance.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:40:06 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume shop
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Been there, done that!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:42 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop



In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
monicaspence@optonline.net writes:

I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
one, much  less worked in one!



And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but sit in
the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space please!!!! Not just
in
 the wings. It would be nice to not have to go out in the parking lot to
cross  from stage left to stage right during a performance.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000
00025
48)
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <cb6.239fdd32.34e1a930@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Job opening: asst. professor, costume design
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 13:49:24 -0500
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You mean they might get situated elsewhere?
 My campus shop was in a U-shaped building at the opposite end from the 
theater...right next to the dressing rooms...in the basement of course! In 
our old theater one usually had to change costumes in the wings; in the new 
one they do the same because there is no time to travel.  I was consulted in 
the planning stage but then the boss for the construction design red-lined 
99% of my requests and suggestions. No storage space, design space, 
maintenance equipment,laundry, or showers for performers.  The building was 
airconditioned..but not in the costume area.  And it adervitised all the 
time about being "state of the art!" Now, when they built the new Sports 
facility, all these areas of concern were well taken care of.
Sigh
kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Job opening: asst. professor, costume design


>
> In a message dated 2/11/2008 8:08:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> robin@netherton.net writes:
>
>
> I  should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts 
> center.
>
>
>
> I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume
> shop--and didn't put it in the basement!
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 13:52:23 -0500
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And how about the "Greenroom"...located in the main lobby; but painted 
green...with a little kitchenette for ?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop


>
> In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> monicaspence@optonline.net writes:
>
> I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
> one, much  less worked in one!
>
>
>
> And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but sit 
> in
> the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space please!!!! Not 
> just in
> the wings. It would be nice to not have to go out in the parking lot to
> cross  from stage left to stage right during a performance.
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 13:08:23 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets
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Here's a bit more info:

>One of the nets is netted from 2-ply silk threads in green and white with
>arms embroidered in silk and gilt silver thread. The arms were embroidered
>on coarse linen ground and then sewn on to the net.
>The other net is made from narrow woven silk bands, white, with parchment
>bits sewn on to the crossings. The parchment was probably once blue. I have
>long since wanted to reproduce that net, and I even managed to get parchment
>and silk bands, but I haven't found the time yet.
>
>Both nets come from art and antiquity sales, so their provenance is not
>known, and dating is a little unsure because of the same reasons. They
>probably date to the 14th c. though.
>
>Greetings,
>Katrin

At 01:00 PM 2/11/2008, you wrote:
>Is this one woven (for lack of a better word) braid with spangles at
>the intersections?
>
> > 2nd half of the 14th C
> > http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg
>
>emma

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:51:09 +0000
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Where did you find the addition information?  Astrid

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> 

> Here's a bit more info: 
> 
> >One of the nets is netted from 2-ply silk threads in green and white with 
> >arms embroidered in silk and gilt silver thread. The arms were embroidered 
> >on coarse linen ground and then sewn on to the net. 
> >The other net is made from narrow woven silk bands, white, with parchment 
> >bits sewn on to the crossings. The parchment was probably once blue. I have 
> >long since wanted to reproduce that net, and I even managed to get parchment 
> >and silk bands, but I haven't found the time yet. 
> > 
> >Both nets come from art and antiquity sales, so their provenance is not 
> >known, and dating is a little unsure because of the same reasons. They 
> >probably date to the 14th c. though. 
> > 
> >Greetings, 
> >Katrin 
> 
> At 01:00 PM 2/11/2008, you wrote: 
> >Is this one woven (for lack of a better word) braid with spangles at 
> >the intersections? 
> > 
> > > 2nd half of the 14th C 
> > > http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg 
> > 
> >emma 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info
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Amen, Brother! I am constantly amazed by how much these "theater design 
professionals" make on designing such non-functional crap. I have been 
in only a few places that really show some (pardon the phrase) 
intelligent design. On a good note, our Brother and Sister writers will 
hopefully soon be back. As a side note, any one interested in some pics 
of Miss America gowns? The MAP is moving their offices from one of the 
venues I'm working at. The gowns and some shoes (from the "show us your 
shoes" schtick of the MA parade) will probably not be there long. There 
are about 7 gowns and 15 pairs of (mostly silly) shoes. Let me know 
within a few days and I'll take a camera in and snap some pics. Cheers, 
Mike T.


>
>And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but sit in  
>the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space please!!!! Not just in 
> the wings. It would be nice to not have to go out in the parking lot to 
>cross  from stage left to stage right during a performance.
>
>
>  
>
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References: <d52.23f42fb3.34e1d4c2@aol.com>
	<001d01c86cdf$3d287eb0$2f01a8c0@IBMTHINKPAD>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume shop
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:46:09 -0800
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The kitchenette was for washing out paint brushes, of course, and the other
part was for making food for use onstage. (white bread with an apricot half
for "eggs", etc.), and for heating the dye water. 
Tee-hee :-) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop

And how about the "Greenroom"...located in the main lobby; but painted
green...with a little kitchenette for ?
Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop


>
> In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> monicaspence@optonline.net writes:
>
> I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never 
> been IN one, much  less worked in one!
>
>
>
> And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but 
> sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space 
> please!!!! Not just in the wings. It would be nice to not have to go 
> out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during 
> a performance.
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0
> 03000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info
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A good case is the Mountain View performing Arts Center. It was designed
with a lovely fly loft. But a city architect thought the fly loft spoiled
the "look" of the building, so he cut it down by half. (at least, that's the
story I heard, but it is so believable) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of michael tartaglio
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info

Amen, Brother! I am constantly amazed by how much these "theater design
professionals" make on designing such non-functional crap. I have been in
only a few places that really show some (pardon the phrase) intelligent
design. On a good note, our Brother and Sister writers will hopefully soon
be back. As a side note, any one interested in some pics of Miss America
gowns? The MAP is moving their offices from one of the venues I'm working
at. The gowns and some shoes (from the "show us your shoes" schtick of the
MA parade) will probably not be there long. There are about 7 gowns and 15
pairs of (mostly silly) shoes. Let me know within a few days and I'll take a
camera in and snap some pics. Cheers, Mike T.


>
>And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but 
>sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space 
>please!!!! Not just in  the wings. It would be nice to not have to go 
>out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during a
performance.
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group 
members:-

"Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th 
and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than 
previously believed. ...  When the area around Lake Mälaren was 
Christianized about a century later, womens dress style became more 
modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson."

It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English"
http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/

What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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> It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English"
> http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/
>
> What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!
>
> Linda Walton,
> (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
> ___________________

Pity there was absolutely no supporting documentation other than this
woman's bare word.  Until I see a whole lot more, like what she really said,
where she said it, and what made her believe it.  I think I'll stick with
the more conservative view.  Bare skin, cold! Mosquitoes and Malaria?

Brrr
Regina

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop
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Hey, this makes sense!  I"ll pass this on to the present shop steward.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:46 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume shop


> The kitchenette was for washing out paint brushes, of course, and the 
> other
> part was for making food for use onstage. (white bread with an apricot 
> half
> for "eggs", etc.), and for heating the dye water.
> Tee-hee :-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:52 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop
>
> And how about the "Greenroom"...located in the main lobby; but painted
> green...with a little kitchenette for ?
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop
>
>
>>
>> In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> monicaspence@optonline.net writes:
>>
>> I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never
>> been IN one, much  less worked in one!
>>
>>
>>
>> And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but
>> sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space
>> please!!!! Not just in the wings. It would be nice to not have to go
>> out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during
>> a performance.
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
>> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0
>> 03000000025
>> 48)
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info
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Ours got to keep the flyspace but the "garage door" between the shop and 
stage is only 10x10 so we still have to build everything On stage..just as 
we always had to in the little theater..  When a show is up for performance, 
the costumes are hanging out there in the shop and it is a trial to keep the 
actors/construction crew from grabbing the nearest 'cloth' for a paint mop 
up.  The red liner also found no reason to connect the lights on the catwalk 
to the lighting booth.  So the poor light guys have to climb the flyspace 4 
stories to access the overheads and then return to the lightbooth in the 
back of the auditorium to check and run the board.

Don't know if it was a tech problem or not but the fall curtain was never 
used the first 3 years the Theater was open.  It may be that no one (even 
the first Tech director)knew how to  "fly" them or anything else.  That has 
changed, at least, and the current director puts all his equipment through 
the paces.  And he got a clotheswasher installed!  It is in the carpenter 
shop...but what the heck!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:48 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info


>A good case is the Mountain View performing Arts Center. It was designed
> with a lovely fly loft. But a city architect thought the fly loft spoiled
> the "look" of the building, so he cut it down by half. (at least, that's 
> the
> story I heard, but it is so believable)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of michael tartaglio
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info
>
> Amen, Brother! I am constantly amazed by how much these "theater design
> professionals" make on designing such non-functional crap. I have been in
> only a few places that really show some (pardon the phrase) intelligent
> design. On a good note, our Brother and Sister writers will hopefully soon
> be back. As a side note, any one interested in some pics of Miss America
> gowns? The MAP is moving their offices from one of the venues I'm working
> at. The gowns and some shoes (from the "show us your shoes" schtick of the
> MA parade) will probably not be there long. There are about 7 gowns and 15
> pairs of (mostly silly) shoes. Let me know within a few days and I'll take 
> a
> camera in and snap some pics. Cheers, Mike T.
>
>
>>
>>And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but
>>sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space
>>please!!!! Not just in  the wings. It would be nice to not have to go
>>out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during a
> performance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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There has been a bit of discussion about this on=20
the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:

see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=3D48
http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

Beth

At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +0000
>From: Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
>
>I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group
>members:-
>
>"Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th
>and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than
>previously believed. ...  When the area around Lake M=E4laren was
>Christianized about a century later, women=92s dress style became more
>modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson."
>
>It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English"
>http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/
>
>What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!
>
>Linda Walton,
>(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:10:52 +0100
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Gustafs Sk=E5l invited to a small winter party at L=F6vsta G=E5rd on the =
second of february this year.
It was very cosy and intimate because we were not as manny people as =
usually when they invite to partys at Beatelund.
I compleately forgot to take pictures, but a lady borrowed my camera, =
and ended up with these pictures:
  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/lovstagard.htm
The party started at 3 o clock in the afternoon, but the people i drowe =
with, had to work to afternoon, so we came a little late, about 5.30. It =
was very far out in the countryside, and it was a snowblitz, but we came =
safely to the place.
A charming old farm with lovely interriors in the 18th century style.
Wonderfull food and wonderfull entertaintment, dansing and gambling, =
killed the night.
Thanks to the organisers and the wonderfull place they found.

Bjarne
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At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:

>Where did you find the addition information?  Astrid

It was posted by a member of another list (75 years) in response to 
my request for additional information from the original article in 
Waffen... (see bottom of photos for citation). I have not seen that 
article myself... which is in German (would love to get a copy). 
Contact me off list if you wish to speak to her directly.

Beth 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:18:26 -0600
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Thanks for the link. This is a simple in shape, but effective look. I =
haven't been able to attend the Eastern Nebraska/Western Iowa Renfaire =
for the last couple of years, but there was a group in Tartar(our Middle =
Ages era)costume, complete with weaponry, the last time I was there. =
With the Northern Europe and Germanic ancestries of many Nebraskans and =
Iowans, I'm surprised not more attendees choose their own ancestral =
costumes.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 2:07 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. =
Here is an image of her reconstruction:

see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=3D48
http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

Beth

At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +0000
>From: Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
>
>I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group
>members:-
>
>"Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th =

>and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than=20
>previously believed. ...  When the area around Lake M=E4laren was=20
>Christianized about a century later, women's dress style became more=20
>modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson."
>
>It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English"
>http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/
>
>What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!
>
>Linda Walton,
>(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)

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Not my era, but those tortoise brooches are all hollowed, right?  Which 
argues for them being put over some convex body area.

Also, I came across this interesting link:

http://www3.baylor.edu/~Chris_Marsh/risala.htm

In section 82 there are two references to females wearing metal or 
wooden "boxes" on, specifically, their breasts.

Fran

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. 
> Here is an image of her reconstruction:
> 
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825
> 
> Beth
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I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance  
for only $3.00/yard!  The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I  
thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!"  My  question to 
the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as  well, but 
what periods, styles or  types of garments could I use with the  black?  
Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses?  I'm open to most periods -  mostly involved in 
Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late  Victorian/ Edwardian.  There 
is no hurry for this  -- I just need  to know some possiblities.
 
Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom.
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 12:36:56 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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This reconstruction isn't what I would describe as "provocative" by  
modern standards!  Just goes to show what to what lengths the media  
will go to to sex things up.

Margo
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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I'm not sure what you are saying but if you are saying that the tortoise
brooches were worn over the mammary because they are "bowl" like, this would
be incorrect because there is a vertical pin in it.

-----Original Message-----
Discoveries


Not my era, but those tortoise brooches are all hollowed, right?  Which
argues for them being put over some convex body area.

Also, I came across this interesting link:

http://www3.baylor.edu/~Chris_Marsh/risala.htm

In section 82 there are two references to females wearing metal or
wooden "boxes" on, specifically, their breasts.

Fran

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list.
> Here is an image of her reconstruction:
>
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825
>
> Beth


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> There has been a bit of discussion about this on
> the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:
>
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

Thanks for the image!  Interesting.  




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:28:05 -0500
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Margo Anderson wrote:
> This reconstruction isn't what I would describe as "provocative" by
> modern standards!  Just goes to show what to what lengths the media
> will go to to sex things up.

True, it's not provocative by modern standards, but to be fair to the poor 
reporter consider this:  if Viking women normally covered their breasts with 
at least two layers of clothing, having just a thin linen shift over them 
might register as "sexy"  (In the same way that, at the height of the 
Victorian period, an unexpected amount of legshow when the woman was in day 
dress registered as "sexy.")

Whether the single-layer-over-the-breasts look was unique to the kind of 
costume Larsson posits would depend on how common it really was for women 
other than slaves to wear only a single garment over the breasts.  It might 
also depend on whether Viking women bound or otherwise wore undergarments 
that supported the breasts (something we really have no data on at present).




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:23:44 +0000
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My first thought would be to go with the late Victorian/Edwardian. You have to be careful with mourning customs earlier, but thanks to Queen Victoria, by then it had become fashionable to spend your life in mourning -- or just look like you were. And 5 1/3 yards might get you to a late Vict. gown or walking suit or walking skirt -- probably too little for a mid-century giant hoopskirt, but once they narrow back down again somewhat you're in the ballpark. 
 Anyway, enjoy! 
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: FyneHats2@aol.com 

> I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance 
> for only $3.00/yard! The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I 
> thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!" My question 
> to 
> the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as well, but 
> what periods, styles or types of garments could I use with the black? 
> Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses? I'm open to most periods - mostly involved in 
> Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late Victorian/ Edwardian. 
> There 
> is no hurry for this -- I just need to know some possiblities. 
> 
> Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom. 
> 
> Donna Scarfe 
> Fyne Hats By Felicity 
> 
> 
> 
> **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
> Awards. Go to AOL Music. 
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565) 
> _______________________________________________ 
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:25:33 +0000
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I'm curious -- has Thora Sharptooth weighed in on this on Norsefolk? I'd be interested in her thoughts. 
Lauren
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> 

> There has been a bit of discussion about this on 
> the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction: 
> 
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48 
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825 
> 
> Beth 
> 
> At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote: 
> >Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +0000 
> >From: Linda Walton 
> > 
> >I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group 
> >members:- 
> > 
> >"Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th 
> >and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than 
> >previously believed. ... When the area around Lake Mälaren was 
> >Christianized about a century later, womens dress style became more 
> >modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson." 
> > 
> >It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English" 
> >http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/ 
> > 
> >What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction! 
> > 
> >Linda Walton, 
> >(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:
>  "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!"  My  question to 
> the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as  well, but 
> what periods, styles or  types of garments could I use with the  black? 

It'll always be good as a lining.

IIRC the English Tudor period had a lot of dark colors, it might be 
suitable as an undergown, or the lining to a velvet or wool overgown.


Dawn

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:45:55 -0500
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Lavolta Press wrote:
> Not my era, but those tortoise brooches are all hollowed, right?  Which
> argues for them being put over some convex body area.

As someone else pointed out, the pin goes through the center hollow, which 
cuts against a placement over the nipple.  The following picture of one of 
the brooches from the Pskov find is a good example of this:

http://pskovarheolog.ru/imgs/docs/68-149.jpg




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Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:
> I'm curious -- has Thora Sharptooth weighed in on this on Norsefolk? I'd be
> interested in her thoughts. Lauren


Not yet--though I expect she will eventually.  It's possible she hasn't seen a 
photo of Larssen's proposed reconstruction yet.


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Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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That=B4s the most beautiful Viking/Rus outfit I=B4ve=20
seen so far! But when I suggested the look to an=20
SCA friend for court garb, she pointed out the=20
little string that holds the upper edge together=20
quite awquardly, and there would be strain on the=20
pearl string if you remove that little string.=20
However, that Valkyria figure next to the photo=20
with the shawl looks pretty much like that=20
outfit, but appears to have a small apron or so=20
in front. Could it be that there were decorative=20
aprons or bibs that went with this outfit and=20
were not included in the box found in Russia? What do you think?

At 22:28 12.02.2008, you wrote:
>On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Margo Anderson wrote:
> > This reconstruction isn't what I would describe as "provocative" by
> > modern standards!  Just goes to show what to what lengths the media
> > will go to to sex things up.
>
>True, it's not provocative by modern standards, but to be fair to the poor
>reporter consider this:  if Viking women normally covered their breasts=
 with
>at least two layers of clothing, having just a thin linen shift over them
>might register as "sexy"  (In the same way that, at the height of the
>Victorian period, an unexpected amount of legshow when the woman was in day
>dress registered as "sexy.")
>
>Whether the single-layer-over-the-breasts look was unique to the kind of
>costume Larsson posits would depend on how common it really was for women
>other than slaves to wear only a single garment over the breasts.  It might
>also depend on whether Viking women bound or otherwise wore undergarments
>that supported the breasts (something we really have no data on at=
 present).
>
>
>
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Subject: [h-cost] Origin of velvet
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Okay, I know this is going to be one of those simple questions with a complicated answer, but I was just curious about when and where velvet was invented? Specifically, would velvet or something similar have been available, even to the very rich, in Constantinople around 800 AD? If not, when and where do we first have evidence of it? This is for a story I'm writing rather than a costume I'm building, so any information would be useful. 

Thanks for your collective wisdom and generosity!

Tea Rose

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that  Valkyria figure next to the photo 
with the shawl


 
Those little Valkyrie figures date from the Migration period and should not  
be used to extrapolate Viking garb.
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 






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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Origin of velvet
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:25:56 -0600
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Yes, it does have a complicated answer. Scholars are still debating it.

Try this website:
http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/Hst-of-Velvet-art.html for a
mention of velvet as early as 948 AD in Moorish Spain. But it might have
existed on Constantinople earlier, but silk velvet doesn't seem to have
been known in Europe before the 12th century.

Hope this helps!

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 4:10 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Origin of velvet

Okay, I know this is going to be one of those simple questions with a
complicated answer, but I was just curious about when and where velvet
was invented? Specifically, would velvet or something similar have been
available, even to the very rich, in Constantinople around 800 AD? If
not, when and where do we first have evidence of it? This is for a story
I'm writing rather than a costume I'm building, so any information would
be useful.=20

Thanks for your collective wisdom and generosity!

Tea Rose

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 17:44:56 -0500
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On Feb 12, 2008, at 4:28 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>  It might
> also depend on whether Viking women bound or otherwise wore  
> undergarments
> that supported the breasts (something we really have no data on at  
> present).

Indeed.  I notice that the reconstruction is worn over a modern bra.   
It's also interesting that the article says the brooches (called  
buckles in the article) were worn "centrally" over the breast (which  
presumably means right over the nipple--ouch), but the same sentence  
implies that the brooches were generally found at waist level.   
Perhaps they assume that all Viking women had very large and/or saggy  
breasts at death?  To those who study the drawings of these grave  
finds:  is it true that the brooches generally show up at waist level  
rather than farther up the torso?  I have to say I don't think I've  
ever seen anyone in re-enacting circles wear them as high as the  
collarbone (cited in the article as the location that this new theory  
is debunking).

I also wonder about Larsson's assertion that what was thought to be  
the front of the garment was actually the back.  I know that  
archeology is complicated and that the passage of time obscures many  
things and that fabric is often ignored during excavation, making it  
difficult to determine where things were later on, but still...

Very interesting topic!

Melanie Schuessler
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That is more of a "Celtic" and Roman style with tubular apron and no straps.

-----Original Message-----
 I have to say I don't think I've  
ever seen anyone in re-enacting circles wear them as high as the  
collarbone (cited in the article as the location that this new theory  
is debunking).


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Origin of velvet
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 18:03:11 -0500
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Okay, I know this is going to be one of those simple questions with a
> complicated answer, but I was just curious about when and where velvet was
> invented? Specifically, would velvet or something similar have been
> available, even to the very rich, in Constantinople around 800 AD? If not,
> when and where do we first have evidence of it? This is for a story I'm
> writing rather than a costume I'm building, so any information would be
> useful.

There's an article on this with a brief bibliography from Stefan's Florilegium 
(a compendium of SCA e-mail posts and articles on various topics):

http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/Hst-of-Velvet-art.html


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 18:02:40 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Do you mean that the collarbone-location style referred to in the  
article is more like a peplos?  Were these large brooches worn with  
those?

The people I mentioned that I've seen were wearing dresses with  
straps and the brooches somewhere between the collarbone and the nipple.

Thanks,
Melanie


On Feb 12, 2008, at 5:55 PM, otsisto wrote:

> That is more of a "Celtic" and Roman style with tubular apron and  
> no straps.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>  I have to say I don't think I've
> ever seen anyone in re-enacting circles wear them as high as the
> collarbone (cited in the article as the location that this new theory
> is debunking).
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Hanna Zickermann wrote:
> That=B4s the most beautiful Viking/Rus outfit I=B4ve
> seen so far! But when I suggested the look to an
> SCA friend for court garb, she pointed out the
> little string that holds the upper edge together
> quite awquardly, and there would be strain on the
> pearl string if you remove that little string.
> However, that Valkyria figure next to the photo
> with the shawl looks pretty much like that
> outfit, but appears to have a small apron or so
> in front. Could it be that there were decorative
> aprons or bibs that went with this outfit and
> were not included in the box found in Russia? What do you think?

There's certainly evidence that aprons (i.e., of the type that fastened aro=
und=20
the waist and covered the front of the body from the waist down) were worn =
in=20
=46inland and other regions around the Baltic.

However, it's worth noting that the Pskov find was not trimmed along the op=
en=20
long edge, but along the top (with appliqued-on silk strips that were fairl=
y=20
wide).  The Pskov reconstructionists found stitch holes that they identifie=
d=20
with where the fastening loops were sewn on, and this matched up with the=20
direction in which the silk appliques ran.  If the Pskov garment were assum=
ed=20
to be like the "apron dress" in Larsson's reconstruction, the silk-decorate=
d=20
area would hardly have shown in the front at all--it would have run across=
=20
the small of the woman's back.



=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 18:55:01 -0600
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Sounds about right.
The circular style brooches
(Skrydstrup Brooch,scroll down)
http://www.nordicarts.com/viking_brooches_01_HUB.htm
would more likely have been used but I have seen some at SCA events use the
tortoise brooch instead because that is what they had.
I have come to understand that brooch style may vary from region to region
and sometimes town to town.

-----Original Message-----

Do you mean that the collarbone-location style referred to in the
article is more like a peplos?  Were these large brooches worn with
those?

The people I mentioned that I've seen were wearing dresses with
straps and the brooches somewhere between the collarbone and the nipple.

Thanks,
Melanie


On Feb 12, 2008, at 5:55 PM, otsisto wrote:

> That is more of a "Celtic" and Roman style with tubular apron and
> no straps.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>  I have to say I don't think I've
> ever seen anyone in re-enacting circles wear them as high as the
> collarbone (cited in the article as the location that this new theory
> is debunking).
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 20:14:50 -0500
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On Tuesday 12 February 2008, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> On Feb 12, 2008, at 4:28 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >  It might
> > also depend on whether Viking women bound or otherwise wore
> > undergarments
> > that supported the breasts (something we really have no data on at
> > present).
>
> Indeed.  I notice that the reconstruction is worn over a modern bra.

The white showing through does indeed look like a modern bra, but if so it's 
not a particularly supportive one, in light of how low the model's bustline 
has sagged.  


> It's also interesting that the article says the brooches (called
> buckles in the article) were worn "centrally" over the breast (which
> presumably means right over the nipple--ouch)

That seems to be Larsson's theory judging from the reconstruction picture.  
She seems to think this is a better explanation than the shifting of the 
brooches as the body decomposed in the grave (typically the reason cited for 
brooches found at waist level)--but note that the model in the picture has 
large breasts that have sagged low enough to be close to the waist.  On a 
small breasted woman, or a woman whose breasts were supported, or even on a 
very long-waisted woman, it wouldn't be possible to position the brooches 
near the natural waist and have them anywhere close to nipple level.


> , but the same sentence 
> implies that the brooches were generally found at waist level.
> Perhaps they assume that all Viking women had very large and/or saggy
> breasts at death?  To those who study the drawings of these grave
> finds:  is it true that the brooches generally show up at waist level
> rather than farther up the torso?

It varies.  A friend on another list sent photos of two examples of brooches 
in situ (some of these are reconstructions of how the skeletons & brooches 
were found):

Gotland 
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/grave%20plans/HPIM1392.jpg

Birka 
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/grave%20plans/taf40fig5grave968.jpg

Here's a picture I found of the Adwick-le-Street woman's grave, though this is 
harder to parse, but it is genuinely in situ:

http://www.show.me.uk/site/news/STO201.html

Reconstruction of a Viking woman's grave from the Isle of Lewis:

http://www.cne-siar.gov.uk/school/tolstaprimary/2004site/vikings/vikingsburials2.htm

> I have to say I don't think I've 
> ever seen anyone in re-enacting circles wear them as high as the
> collarbone (cited in the article as the location that this new theory
> is debunking).

Depends on what she means by collarbone and where she's measuring from. 
Possibly it depends on the strap arrangement as well.  On my double-wrapped 
apron dresses the top of the brooches rides near my collarbones (though out 
toward the end of my collarbones, near the armpits), because the dress is 
most secure that way.


> I also wonder about Larsson's assertion that what was thought to be
> the front of the garment was actually the back.  

I don't buy it for the Pskov find, at least.  It would be insane to bother to 
sew lengths of precious red and blue silk to your linen apron dress and then 
put that part of the dress at the small of your back, where only cowards 
sneaking up on you would be likely to see it.  

> I know that 
> archeology is complicated and that the passage of time obscures many
> things and that fabric is often ignored during excavation, making it
> difficult to determine where things were later on, but still...
>
> Very interesting topic!

Indeed.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Hello, I am trying to locate the discussion board but think I have to 
send an email to your here first, unless this is just for a separate 
mailer which is fine also. Thanks.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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My first reaction is - that looks chilly! Why would you use all that 
fabric to keep your bum warm and not your torso? It looks more 
convincing with the shawl, but as Hanna said, the Valkyrie figure seems 
to have something apron-like in front.

My husband has also commented that there is evidence that ordinary women 
wore tortoise brooches, not just the idle rich, and a train is not very 
practical when you're working.

Anyone read enough Swedish to tell us if the University press release 
gives any more information?

Jean


Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. 
> Here is an image of her reconstruction:
>
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825
>
> Beth
>
> At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:
>> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +0000
>> From: Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
>>
>> I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group
>> members:-
>>
>> "Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th
>> and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than
>> previously believed. ... When the area around Lake Mälaren was
>> Christianized about a century later, womens dress style became more
>> modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson."
>>
>> It's from "The Local - Sweden's News in English"
>> http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/
>>
>> What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!
>>
>> Linda Walton,
>> (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Mourning underwear. Black petticoat for wearing under Ren dress so the dirt
doesn't show as much as with lighter fabrics. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of FyneHats2@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:21 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance
for only $3.00/yard!  The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I
thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!"  My
question to the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors
as  well, but what periods, styles or  types of garments could I use with
the  black?  
Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses?  I'm open to most periods -  mostly involved
in Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late  Victorian/
Edwardian.  There is no hurry for this  -- I just need  to know some
possiblities.
 
Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom.
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
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Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_=5Bh-cost=5D_L=F6vsta_G=E5rd_in_Sweden?=
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:16:25 -0500
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What fun!  And you look grande as usual.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Lövsta Gård in Sweden


Gustafs Skål invited to a small winter party at Lövsta Gård on the second of 
february this year.
It was very cosy and intimate because we were not as manny people as usually 
when they invite to partys at Beatelund.
I compleately forgot to take pictures, but a lady borrowed my camera, and 
ended up with these pictures:
  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/lovstagard.htm
The party started at 3 o clock in the afternoon, but the people i drowe 
with, had to work to afternoon, so we came a little late, about 5.30. It was 
very far out in the countryside, and it was a snowblitz, but we came safely 
to the place.
A charming old farm with lovely interriors in the 18th century style.
Wonderfull food and wonderfull entertaintment, dansing and gambling, killed 
the night.
Thanks to the organisers and the wonderfull place they found.

Bjarne
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 07:46:39 -0700
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Black is pretty ubiquitous amongst the upper class.  The color was one of t=
he more expensive ones to manufacture and maintain.  Check out the "Golden =
Age" of Dutch painting for instance.  Also, it was supposedly one of Queen =
Elizabeth's favorites - next to white.  I'd say your only challenge is the =
amount you have.  Not quite enough for a whole outfit, but surely a skirt o=
r bodice which could be coordinated with something else.

Sg



> From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:23:44 +0000
> CC:=20
>=20
> My first thought would be to go with the late Victorian/Edwardian. You ha=
ve to be careful with mourning customs earlier, but thanks to Queen Victori=
a, by then it had become fashionable to spend your life in mourning -- or j=
ust look like you were. And 5 1/3 yards might get you to a late Vict. gown =
or walking suit or walking skirt -- probably too little for a mid-century g=
iant hoopskirt, but once they narrow back down again somewhat you're in the=
 ballpark.=20
>  Anyway, enjoy!=20
> -------------- Original message --------------=20
> From: FyneHats2@aol.com=20
>=20
> > I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on cleara=
nce=20
> > for only $3.00/yard! The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I=
=20
> > thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!" My que=
stion=20
> > to=20
> > the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as wel=
l, but=20
> > what periods, styles or types of garments could I use with the black?=20
> > Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses? I'm open to most periods - mostly involve=
d in=20
> > Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late Victorian/ Edwardia=
n.=20
> > There=20
> > is no hurry for this -- I just need to know some possiblities.=20
> >=20
> > Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom.=20
> >=20
> > Donna Scarfe=20
> > Fyne Hats By Felicity=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Gramm=
y=20
> > Awards. Go to AOL Music.=20
> > (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=3Daolcmp00300000002565)=20
> > _______________________________________________=20
> > h-costume mailing list=20
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com=20
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Other then make a nice summer formal suit, how about this?
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/JTintorettoPOALady.jpg

De


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen
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Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In 
regards to the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black 
linen, I know from experience that when something good like that lands 
on your lap it's very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins 
are full of about 5 yd cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces 
that I am afraid to use because there is only enough for one dainty 
outfit and then it's gone. When the black linen comes to mind, the late 
Victorian or Edwardian period definitely is a good era to use it on, so 
many suits and things were made with black linen. In fact, the dress 
Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they are touring the ship 
comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit with that and use 
a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured lace in 
addition to that.
I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only 
made one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased 
pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era 
small accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where 
to start or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority 
who have made them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat 
making class?
Justine:)


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 17:21:04 -0500
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On Feb 13, 2008, at 3:42 PM, ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:

> h I am not sure where to start or what formal techniques other  
> costumers use! Do the majority who have made them use both patterns  
> and techniques acquired from a hat making class?

I am not familiar with historical Victorian millinery techniques, but  
a great book with clear instructions for theatrical techniques is  
_From the Neck Up_ by Denise Dreher.  It's not too expensive, and  
it's fairly easy to use.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Greetings Justine, and welcome to the group.

I learned from two sources, the first is the book
already mentioned, "From the Neck Up". A really good
book imo. The other source was from patterns and a
class with Lynn McMasters, who has Victorian era hat
patterns with full instructions.
http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/

Kimiko


--- ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:
<snip>
> I need some advice on accessory making, particularly
> hats. I have only 
> made one hat and it was entirely without the
> assistance of a purchased 
> pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian
> and Edwardian era 
> small accessories as well, not just garments though
> I am not sure where 
> to start or what formal techniques other costumers
> use! Do the majority 
> who have made them use both patterns and techniques
> acquired from a hat 
> making class?
> Justine:)
> 



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In a message dated 2/13/2008 5:21:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

I am not  familiar with historical Victorian millinery techniques, but  
a great  book with clear instructions for theatrical techniques is  
_From the  Neck Up_ by Denise Dreher.  It's not too expensive, and  
it's  fairly easy to use.



***********************************
Hats are hats. The "theatrical" methods are often the REAL methods because  
many hats, especially big elaborate ones, are a "make it work" affair. I have a 
 bunch of period bonnets from the 1840's and 50's that my long ago roommate  
collected and we just couldn't throw out.... they are all rotting and  falling 
apart. No you cannot wear them or fix them, BUT you can see their  innards 
and see how they were made. Lots of cardboard and wire. And some of the  most 
amazing and clever decoration you've ever seen [why my roommate  wouldn't throw 
them out] 
There's one simple oyster colored silk bonnet [covering a cardboard and  wire 
frame] decorated with the most realistic wild morning glories, made of  
paper, you've ever seem Very fine and delicate.
 
My fave is a bonnet that is formed from a wire frame that is like an open  
mesh. Woven into the frame in geometric patterns are long bias strips of  
blue-grey silk organdy.... which curl up into tubes. On one side is a cluster of  
loops of the tubular organdy strips. It's light as a feather and translucent.  
I've never seen anything like it!



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Where are you located? I ask because there are some Victorian costume
classes about to start around here (San Francisco bay area). It is a series
of classes, starting with underwear and moving on to the outer garments,
meant for folks who wish to make their own costume for the Dickens Fair
(1840-1860-ish). If you are interested, I'll send you the info. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 12:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen

Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In regards to
the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black linen, I know
from experience that when something good like that lands on your lap it's
very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins are full of about 5 yd
cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces that I am afraid to use because
there is only enough for one dainty outfit and then it's gone. When the
black linen comes to mind, the late Victorian or Edwardian period definitely
is a good era to use it on, so many suits and things were made with black
linen. In fact, the dress Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they
are touring the ship comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit
with that and use a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured
lace in addition to that.
I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only made
one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased pattern. I
would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era small
accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where to start
or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made
them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class?
Justine:)


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Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:31:50 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] muckinger construction
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I have a quick question for those of you who go to the
Bristol Ren Faire. 

Ansel was asking me to make him something called a
muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a
double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his
description, I am thinking that the double layer was
to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching.

Can anybody point me to a description of this
accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up
with much. None of the examples shown were double
layered.

The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed.
http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html
  Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a
monogram F (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms
popular at the time? I don't recall that being much of
a fashion until later.

Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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When you only have so much, try to step out of monochromatic and use other
colors.

http://www.antiquedress.com/item4691.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4597.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3623.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3649.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_490.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_114.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_21.htm


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"In a move to disseminate faculty research and scholarship more broadly, =
the Faculty of Arts and Sciences (FAS) voted Tuesday (Feb. 12) to give =
the University a worldwide license to make each faculty member=92s =
scholarly articles available and to exercise the copyright in the =
articles, provided that the articles are not sold for a profit."

http://www.news.harvard.edu/gazette/2008/02.14/99-fasvote.html

-E House
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Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 14:19:06 +1300
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
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> Black is pretty ubiquitous amongst the upper class.  The color was one of the more expensive ones to manufacture and maintain.  Check out the "Golden Age" of Dutch painting for instance.  Also, it was supposedly one of Queen Elizabeth's favorites - next to white.  I'd say your only challenge is the amount you have.  Not quite enough for a whole outfit, but surely a skirt or bodice which could be coordinated with something else.


It's also pretty ubiquitous of the lower classes too:) And middle. But
usually in wool and silk. 5 and 1/3 yards is pretty close to 5m and I
used that much of red linen to make my Cleves ensemble easily:) Big
sleeves and all:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/91424360@N00/2179604210/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/91424360@N00/2178837383/ (the skirts rurn
nack but are made to overlap by about 4" when closed.... yes
perspective is way off in the pic I tried to correct for it but it
didn't work!)

I could probably have used even less because the back is two full
width of the fabric with no shaping. I also have half length sleeves
that the full sleeves pin to.
I just folded my fabric in half and cut gored panels for the front,
with piecing as you see in Alcega and the extant gowns:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/91424360@N00/2165083275/
I could have topped and tailed the pieces too to avoid that seam, but
I like it:)

Each sleeve length is half the fabric width so I got both sleeves from
about 90cm of fabric.

It worked out as:
3X 1.2m for the skirt (3.6m) (a little too much reallt and I wound up
with some strips left over)
80-90cm for the sleeves (so 4.4-4.5 for skirt and sleeves)
50-60cm for the bodice and half length sleeves.

This was 150cm wide fabric (60") so I was able to use that little. For
a narrower fabric I would have plotted to get more shaping in the back
of the skirt to be able to get my full sleeves or just made a short
sleeved gown only.


I also have 6m of wide wool in cream to get through and I'm thinking
surcoat and kirtle.....

regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
(I have also made full gowns from double to queen sized blankets so
had to learn to use period cutting to make best use of fabric!)
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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
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> http://www.flickr.com/photos/91424360@N00/2179604210/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/91424360@N00/2178837383/ (the skirts rurn
> nack but are made to overlap by about 4" when closed.... yes
> perspective is way off in the pic I tried to correct for it but it
> didn't work!)

Oy, typos got through.. make that "skirts turn back"

Michaela de Bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] muckinger construction
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 18:17:33 -0600
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Well, my husband and I usually pick up hankies at garage sales and use them.
However, we are middle-class working folks, so lots of lace and embroidery
wouldn't be a good choice for us.

I would say a square of linen, hemmed (maybe with hem-stitch?) and a bit of
embroidery would be fine...lace if he wants to be pretensious or "make an
impression" with the nobles. Remember, lace is EXPENSIVE at this time, so he
would have paid a pretty penny (or pound!) for it. I'm not really sure about
the monogram.

I can offer, if interested, blackworking a muckinger for you/him. Contact me
privately if you're interested!

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence at the Dirty Duck Inn
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 5:32 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] muckinger construction
> 
> I have a quick question for those of you who go to the 
> Bristol Ren Faire. 
> 
> Ansel was asking me to make him something called a muckinger 
> which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a double layer 
> embroidered hanky. Based on his description, I am thinking 
> that the double layer was to cover the back of machine 
> embroidery stitching.
> 
> Can anybody point me to a description of this accessory? I 
> did a google search and didn't come up with much. None of the 
> examples shown were double layered.
> 
> The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed.
> http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html
>   Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a monogram F 
> (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms popular at the 
> time? I don't recall that being much of a fashion until later.
> 
> Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> 
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between 
> the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer-- 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Dear friends,
Was there a Digest issue 57?  I certainly didn't receive it, but I  
seem to be reading responses to messages in it....
Would someone be so kind as to forward number 57, assuming it really  
exists?
Thanks!
Suzanne
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] muckinger construction
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 20:53:45 -0600
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Muckinger or Muckender (Ger. schnupftuch (sp?) )Is a handkerchief. This is
the first I have heard of it being two layers but I am not an expert on
this.

-----Original Message-----

I have a quick question for those of you who go to the
Bristol Ren Faire.

Ansel was asking me to make him something called a
muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a
double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his
description, I am thinking that the double layer was
to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching.

Can anybody point me to a description of this
accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up
with much. None of the examples shown were double
layered.

The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed.
http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html
  Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a
monogram F (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms
popular at the time? I don't recall that being much of
a fashion until later.

Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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http://www.antiquedress.com/item9923.htm

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Subject: [h-cost] 1882 gown
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Thought some would want to see this before it went bye bye.
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6179.htm

#6179 - c. 1882 Black Silk Taffeta Bustle Gown!  Near Mint Condition! Like
new!  Really... it's unbelievable that this is over 120 years old!
Wonderfully elaborate with all the bells and whistles you would want in a
bustle gown - pleats, swags, bows, tucks, fringed gathered rosettes, crochet
buttons, etc., etc.  Just take the time to look at the close-up photos of
all the detailing (click on photo at left).  Even has things you didn't know
you wanted, like the skirt having a hidden pocket under one of the tiers of
lace. The cuffs are great - like little ribbon tied gifts.  The bodice is
boned also with a hidden inside pocket.   Measures: 32" bust (fits more like
a 30" bust due to 12" across back), tight ribcage, 26/27" waist, 40" long
skirt from waist to hem.  Could certainly have been a half-mourning gown due
to the black silk taffeta and white tulle trim at cuffs and neck.  Shown
over a bustle not included.  For display, you would only have to stuff the
backside with cotton or tissue for the right look if you don't have a
bustle.  One of those elaborate pieces you can get lost in while looking at
all the detailing.


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Subject: [h-cost] Millinery:
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In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of 
historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. I 
am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is 
absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort 
of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that 
happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less 
than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places 
that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast offers 
the best variety, I was considering going to the costume college this 
spring but it was sold out, maybe next year.
About the hats, there are a couple in my possession that are opened 
underneath and you can see the innerds, they usually tend to be made up 
much in the same way, with a wire frame and buckram or some sort of hay 
stuffing. Were there specific rules to those things in those days or 
did the milliners just make them the best they could using their own 
skills to replicate the latest fashions I wonder? The tricky part seems 
to be creating hats or bonnets with asymetrical frames, moreso to cover 
them with fabrics such as velvet where the material seemed to perfectly 
fitted. The trimmings were so unusual at times, I have a tiny little 
bonnet that is overflowing with an assortment of trims, many of which I 
don't think I could even identify!  It's hard to find such trimmings in 
the modern market. There are little tiny metal balls in the size of 
peas dangling all over, stiff curly thin gold stems sticking out all 
over, the usual vibrant coloured silk foliage, lace, velvet tabs, etc. 
Thank you for the suggestion on the book by Denise Dreher, that will be 
the next Amazon search. Goodnight:)


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ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:
> In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of 
> historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. 
> I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is 
> absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort 
> of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that 
> happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less 
> than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places 
> that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast 
> offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume 
> college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year.

You're more in Rev & Regency territory, with a bit of mid-Victorian from 
the Civil War folks.

Contact the Delaware Valley Costumers' Guild.
http://dvcg.bravehost.com/

I'm not sure if Sandy will be able to respond; the last I talked to him 
he was really sick.

andy

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Muckinger construction
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Otsisto wrote:

Muckinger or Muckender (Ger. schnupftuch (sp?) )Is a handkerchief. This is
the first I have heard of it being two layers but I am not an expert on
this.

-----Original Message-----

I have a quick question for those of you who go to the
Bristol Ren Faire.

Ansel was asking me to make him something called a
muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a
double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his
description, I am thinking that the double layer was
to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching.

Can anybody point me to a description of this
accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up
with much. None of the examples shown were double
layered.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------------------------

I've seen it spelled "muckinder" (in the Cunnington 17th century book). A =
Google search on that brings up several definitions, mainly calling it a =
child's handkerchief worn attached to the clothing. I don't think the =
double layer construction is essential.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Muckinger construction
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The term 'muckinger' is just an Elizabethan term for 'handkercheif'. The=
re's no special construction implied. The double layered-ness is, as you=
 suspected, a modern cheat so that machine embroidery can be used. In pe=
riod a muckinger might be plain linen or it might have a lace edge or a =
bit of blackwork around the edge. You are also right in that initials ar=
en't really done that much in period. If there's a symbol Ansel likes to=
 use as a personal 'device', it would be more appropriate to have that e=
mbroidered on it. =

 =

Karen
Seamstrix
Philadelphia, Lady Scrope BRF, Guild of St. George


-- "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
Otsisto wrote:

Muckinger or Muckender (Ger. schnupftuch (sp?) )Is a handkerchief. This =
is
the first I have heard of it being two layers but I am not an expert on
this.

-----Original Message-----

I have a quick question for those of you who go to the
Bristol Ren Faire.

Ansel was asking me to make him something called a
muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a
double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his
description, I am thinking that the double layer was
to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching.

Can anybody point me to a description of this
accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up
with much. None of the examples shown were double
layered.
------------------------------------------------------------------------=
----------------------------

I've seen it spelled "muckinder" (in the Cunnington 17th century book). =
A Google search on that brings up several definitions, mainly calling it=
 a child's handkerchief worn attached to the clothing. I don't think the=
 double layer construction is essential.

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am =
pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm

Bjarne
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] new waistcoat
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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You should be pleased - it's wonderful (as usual)!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat

Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am
pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm

Bjarne
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"Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I 
am
pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm"

______________________________________________

That is absolutely stunning, is the embroidery hand done or by 
machine?? There's an art I would love to learn.


________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new waistcoat
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  Ooooo, Bjarne, just saw the pictures on LJ - I am SO coveting this.  It is
beautiful!

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat

Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am
pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm

Bjarne
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Manny thanks.
The embroidery surely is hand done. No machine here.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:44 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Waistcoat:


> "Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I 
> am
> pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm"
> 
> ______________________________________________
> 
> That is absolutely stunning, is the embroidery hand done or by 
> machine?? There's an art I would love to learn.
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
> http://webmail.aol.com
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>

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Anyone who can embroider ultimately has my respect. It is amazing what 
that embellishment can do for any project, how it can alter it so much 
in appearance. A lady friend of mine brought some of her Chinese 
antiques for display at our China themed tea and what she had was 
amazing. She bought them there years ago for a song and are probably 
worth over a thousand dollars! She had a skirt going back to the 1800s 
(not sure which dynasty that would have been) but let me tell you.. it 
was made of a series of different coloured silk panels all pleated over 
one another vertically, and each panel was hand embroidered the full 
length!! She had many peices of the same quality and all the embroidery 
was done by hand and it was so fine, that you could NOT find a single 
knot on the back, the embroidery was reversible!! We guessed that the 
artists must have used a continuous stitch but the use of colours in 
each design was immense so it's mind boggling trying to understand how. 
There was a peice of embroidery that was a decorative piece, it was a 
little white cat chasing a grasshopper but it was set in round glass 
with a round wooden frame and stand and all there was was the cat and 
the grasshopper further down, they weren't even connected and it was 
too reversible, it looked so real the rendering of the fur!


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Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 07:42:52 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new waistcoat
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It is beautiful! A friend just embroidered an 18th C Frockcoat I am sewing -
I will take photos soon to share, but we are both very inspired by your
work!
Regards, Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org

On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 6:13 AM, Frank A Thallas Jr <
fathallas@collinscom.net> wrote:

>  Ooooo, Bjarne, just saw the pictures on LJ - I am SO coveting this.  It
> is
> beautiful!
>
> Liadain
>
> THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
> wildernesse, the Outlands
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:56 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat
>
> Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am
> pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Lady Bean,

Cape May NJ is relatively close to you.  It is a wonderful source for =20
Victorian Items.   It is a long  trip from northern NJ, but a few of my =20
friends go to Cape May at various times during the year for fabulous =20
Weekend dances and activities-dressed in Victorian Attire, of course.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 14, 2008, at 1:46 AM, ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:

> In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of =20
> historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. =20
> I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is =20
> absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort =20
> of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that =20
> happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less =20
> than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places =20
> that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast =20
> offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume =20
> college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year.
> About the hats, there are a couple in my possession that are opened =20
> underneath and you can see the innerds, they usually tend to be made =20
> up much in the same way, with a wire frame and buckram or some sort of =20
> hay stuffing. Were there specific rules to those things in those days =20
> or did the milliners just make them the best they could using their =20
> own skills to replicate the latest fashions I wonder? The tricky part =20
> seems to be creating hats or bonnets with asymetrical frames, moreso =20
> to cover them with fabrics such as velvet where the material seemed to =20
> perfectly fitted. The trimmings were so unusual at times, I have a =20
> tiny little bonnet that is overflowing with an assortment of trims, =20
> many of which I don't think I could even identify!  It's hard to find =20
> such trimmings in the modern market. There are little tiny metal balls =20
> in the size of peas dangling all over, stiff curly thin gold stems =20
> sticking out all over, the usual vibrant coloured silk foliage, lace, =20
> velvet tabs, etc. Thank you for the suggestion on the book by Denise =20
> Dreher, that will be the next Amazon search. Goodnight:)
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________=20
> _
> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - =20
> http://webmail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 20:49:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new waistcoat
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Bjarne,
  as always, your workmanship - nay - craftsmanship of genius is absolutely stunning!
   
  Julian & Sally Wilson,
  in "old" Jersey
   
  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat

Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am
pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm

Bjarne
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery
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the chinese uses an arrangement of 3 seed stitches to secure the start and the end of the embroidery thread. In good chinese embroidery there should not be a single knot unless it is pekingeese.

Tania

ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote: Anyone who can embroider ultimately has my respect. It is amazing what 
that embellishment can do for any project, how it can alter it so much 
in appearance. A lady friend of mine brought some of her Chinese 
antiques for display at our China themed tea and what she had was 
amazing. She bought them there years ago for a song and are probably 
worth over a thousand dollars! She had a skirt going back to the 1800s 
(not sure which dynasty that would have been) but let me tell you.. it 
was made of a series of different coloured silk panels all pleated over 
one another vertically, and each panel was hand embroidered the full 
length!! She had many peices of the same quality and all the embroidery 
was done by hand and it was so fine, that you could NOT find a single 
knot on the back, the embroidery was reversible!! We guessed that the 
artists must have used a continuous stitch but the use of colours in 
each design was immense so it's mind boggling trying to understand how. 
There was a peice of embroidery that was a decorative piece, it was a 
little white cat chasing a grasshopper but it was set in round glass 
with a round wooden frame and stand and all there was was the cat and 
the grasshopper further down, they weren't even connected and it was 
too reversible, it looked so real the rendering of the fur!


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Subject: [h-cost] Cape May:
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Susan, it is about three hours from where I am and too far for a one 
day trip, I suppose staying overnight is a good idea but most of the 
b&bs and hotels in Cape May have really increased rates because of it 
being such a tourist area. Can ladies attend the dances without a 
partner? I was told that it doesn't matter because with dance cards 
partners change throughout the night anyhow.


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Justine,

I don't go to the dances.  I have a horse at home with me and we spend =20
our time and money doing Horse Things while the other ladies and their =20
gentlemen do Costume Things.  I am part of a small group that =20
volunteers at Acorn Hall in Morristown.  The ladies are very nice and =20
help each other sew Period Correct clothing and make hats for the =20
outfits.

Ask your local Historical Society if there is a similar group near you. =20
  I found them by accident while touring the Hall.  We are in a hotbed =20
of Revolutionary War sites here in NJ, but if you look, you can find =20
Victorian activities.  In fact, while the rest of the ladies are =20
hostess-ing at Acorn Hall, I am with other horse friends, riding =20
sidesaddle at Fosterfields Living History Farm during Victorian Weekend =20
in early May, each year.

All the ladies that go to the dances do not have a gentleman, so I am =20
sure the dances are open to you.  Google Cape May attractions and see =20
what you find!  Have fun!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 14, 2008, at 4:28 PM, ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:

> Susan, it is about three hours from where I am and too far for a one =20
> day trip, I suppose staying overnight is a good idea but most of the =20
> b&bs and hotels in Cape May have really increased rates because of it =20
> being such a tourist area. Can ladies attend the dances without a =20
> partner? I was told that it doesn't matter because with dance cards =20
> partners change throughout the night anyhow.
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________=20
> _
> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - =20
> http://webmail.aol.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] new waistcoat
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 19:57:17 -0800
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Aylwen, I do Renaissance dancing also. Do you have any videos of your
performances? We mostly do Italian and French court dances.
Sharon C.(oops, have to add costume content-we do them in period costume)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new waistcoat

It is beautiful! A friend just embroidered an 18th C Frockcoat I am sewing -
I will take photos soon to share, but we are both very inspired by your
work!
Regards, Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org

On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 6:13 AM, Frank A Thallas Jr <
fathallas@collinscom.net> wrote:

>  Ooooo, Bjarne, just saw the pictures on LJ - I am SO coveting this.  
> It is beautiful!
>
> Liadain
>
> THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
> wildernesse, the Outlands
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:56 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat
>
> Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I 
> am pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm
>
> Bjarne
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Hi all,
At the theatre last night I was asked about the value of old sewing machines. I had no idea on this one:
a)it works and has the original finish(es), accessories and attachments
b)manufactured in Guelph, Ontario, Canada in 1861 by Raymond Sewing Machine
c)RSM was purchased in 1912 or 1916 by White Sewing Machine
d)treadle powered and shuttle.

I haven't seen this yet as I'm busy at the theatre and fighting off my allergies which deplete my energy. I thought I'd ask you collectors if this is worth looking at. Any answers?

It was also described as a "heavy old thing."

Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Dear all,
I am most gratefull to all of you who commented on my new waistcoat =
embroidery.
Its always nice to be phraised!
You are all very kind!

Thankyou..........

Bjarne
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Ummmmm  speaking as a member of the "treadle-on" group, run, do not  
walk, take pictures and save that thing.  Post pictures and send the  
link to the treadle-on groups so we can identify it and let you know.   
If it is a working machine that was actually manufactured in 1861, it  
may be worth some money, but if they are simply reading some patent  
dates off it it may not be that old.  Most old machines are worth  
whatever somebody would pay for them, but there are a few that are  
worth substantially more, and there is no way to know without a  
positive ID, and that takes pictures.
Let us know what you find out.  To find treadle-on go to www.treadleon.net 
  and look for a link to the mailing list.
-Megan

On Feb 15, 2008, at 3:12 PM, AVCHASE wrote:

> Hi all,
> At the theatre last night I was asked about the value of old sewing  
> machines. I had no idea on this one:
> a)it works and has the original finish(es), accessories and  
> attachments
> b)manufactured in Guelph, Ontario, Canada in 1861 by Raymond Sewing  
> Machine
> c)RSM was purchased in 1912 or 1916 by White Sewing Machine
> d)treadle powered and shuttle.
>
> I haven't seen this yet as I'm busy at the theatre and fighting off  
> my allergies which deplete my energy. I thought I'd ask you  
> collectors if this is worth looking at. Any answers?
>
> It was also described as a "heavy old thing."
>
> Audy
>
> in the high boonies of Central Texas
>
> ________________________________________
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> A better way to Internet
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Subject: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
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Susan, do you do any costuming? You mentioned you are more a horse 
person so I wondered if you wear any particular riding garb. I have 
gotten the impression that the Morris Co. historical society is a very 
active group with a large membership in terms of costuming, dancing, 
etc. Last year I attended a vintage fashion show and tea in Scranton 
and many of the attendees and/or participants were from there. As a 
matter of fact, only a week or two after was their Victorian Fest at 
Acorn Hall and Fosterfeilds but it was too much travel for our car to 
make another long trip so I am shooting for this year. I just became a 
member of the board of directors as well as the chairperson for ways 
and means at my local historical society, they are fairly active and do 
try to mix it up but I hope my presence there now may influence the 
programming and we can integrate more living history programming 
similar to that of what groups in surrounding areas pursue. It seems 
the hardest thing is making initial contact with people who share such 
interests, even moreso in finding anyone willing to participate 
publicly as if they are too shy to bring their costuming into the 
public eye or just do not keep such hobbies at all, being that 
criticism is very harsh around towards people who do something 
historical. It is heartbreaking and I am sure there are critics 
everywhere, in other areas though the interest seems to overcome fear 
of not keeping up with the Jones' so to speak. Every year we have a 
traveling civil war encampment that comes to a local state park with 
battles and a camp village with tradespeople and merchants which is 
great fun. They do not advertise this and even the fact that this is 
going on all over the park, was unfortunate to overhear a couple of 
young kids making comments to one of the encampment ladies in costume. 
I recall the reference to her in her civil war garb as being "princess 
leah".
How nice that you are horse person, horses are wonderful creatures. One 
day it would be nice to have some land and keep one. Only small pets 
are easy to keep where I live, it is an almost urban landscape, just we 
have yards of a bit larger scale than those in the inner city. Do they 
make costumes for horses?  I made costume for my rabbit one Halloween. 
Take care:)
Justine


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 Do they
make costumes for horses? =20
=20
Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding  =
(if it isn't armour).
=20
Patty=20

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 16 17:19:39 2008
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 17:12:56 -0500
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On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
>  Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding  (if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too.  Consider this 
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
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Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by =
many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in =
reference to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic =
garments. But online I find horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-----Original Message-----

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
>  Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding =
 (if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too.  Consider =
this=20
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=3Dproduct_detail&p=3D598&c=3D=
131

--=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 08:30:54 -0500
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I think it's spelled caparison, for those who want to search it online.

Melanie


On Feb 17, 2008, at 3:38 AM, otsisto wrote:

> Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed  
> by many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding  
> is in reference to horse armour and camparison is the fabric  
> heraldic garments. But online I find horse people calling it barding.
> http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
> http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf
> \
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A little help, please.
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Hi all,

Quick question but I am not understanding something
from the 16th century that I think is an abbreviation
or something similar.

di

Here are two sentences that use it.

"the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
together iij oz di di quarter"

"a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
garters weying one ounce quarter di"

Thanks for any help with this.

Kimiko





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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A little help, please.
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 18:27:41 -0600
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It looks to me like it is a number..."d" refers to a number, + "i" which
would stand for 1. Yes...here it is:

http://literacy.kent.edu/Minigrants/Cinci/romanchart.htm

d = 500, so di = 501


*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 12:55 PM
> To: historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] A little help, please.
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Quick question but I am not understanding something from the 
> 16th century that I think is an abbreviation or something similar.
> 
> di
> 
> Here are two sentences that use it.
> 
> "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle of the 
> curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half gilte with a 
> sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged Dyamounte like a 
> sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying together iij oz di di quarter"
> 
> "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of garters 
> weying one ounce quarter di"
> 
> Thanks for any help with this.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       
> ______________________________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A little help, please.
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Status: RO

At 10:55 AM 2/17/2008, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Quick question but I am not understanding something
>from the 16th century that I think is an abbreviation
>or something similar.
>
>di
>
>Here are two sentences that use it.
>
>"the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
>of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
>gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
>Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
>together iij oz di di quarter"
>
>"a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
>garters weying one ounce quarter di"
>
>Thanks for any help with this.
>
>Kimiko

It's an abbreviation for "dimidio", or half. In this case , "di di 
quarter" is 5/8 ounce (one half ounce plus one half of one half ounce).  The
quarter di" is 3/8 ounce (one quarter ounce plus one half of one 
quarter ounce). There is a table of measures in QEWU on page 242 that 
gives the meanings of all these abbreviations.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A little help, please.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you to Melanie, Rebecca, and Joan for your help
with this little question. I can now understand what
is going on with my reading!

And thanks also Joan for letting me know about the
reference in QEWU, I will pull that book out for
further info on the measurements.

Thanks all again,

Kimiko





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It is that time, I have to plan making not only my first bustle gown, 
but probably best if I get a bustle era ball gown knocked out of the 
way since I do not have one. What is a good pattern to start with? I 
keep finding a pattern on ebay called Buckaroo Bobbins and it is a 
pattern for a polonaise and bustle skirt but I am not sure if it would 
be a good pattern, it could be just as unathentic as the one or two 
incredibly inaccurate patterns produced by the large companies. The 
polonaise gown looks easy enough but with out any experience it may be 
alot harder than thought to be. Would it be best to try out that era 
first with something simple to get the feel for it? When I do make the 
ball gown, it isn't going to be an easy 1-2-3 peice like my others to 
date so maybe if there are any bustlers out there you could share some 
hints on how to get started and what to avoid/try. Goodnight and 
thanks, Justine:)


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Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 21:12:05 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ball dress:
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My two censts is that you peruse the Truly Victorian website. They focus on
the bustle era. Their patterns are well researched, fit very well and have
excellent instructions. They have everything you'll need, from corset,
bustles, underskirts, overskirts and bodices. You can also email them with
questions and they are very helpful.

Not related but I'm a big fan of their work.
LynnD

On Feb 17, 2008 8:16 PM, <ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com> wrote:

> It is that time, I have to plan making not only my first bustle gown,
> but probably best if I get a bustle era ball gown knocked out of the
> way since I do not have one. What is a good pattern to start with? I
> keep finding a pattern on ebay called Buckaroo Bobbins and it is a
> pattern for a polonaise and bustle skirt but I am not sure if it would
> be a good pattern, it could be just as unathentic as the one or two
> incredibly inaccurate patterns produced by the large companies. The
> polonaise gown looks easy enough but with out any experience it may be
> alot harder than thought to be. Would it be best to try out that era
> first with something simple to get the feel for it? When I do make the
> ball gown, it isn't going to be an easy 1-2-3 peice like my others to
> date so maybe if there are any bustlers out there you could share some
> hints on how to get started and what to avoid/try. Goodnight and
> thanks, Justine:)
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or heraldric
	items..., spelling is the key
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The spelling may be throwing people off. According to Mirriam  Websters its; "Caparison"
  no "M" .
  
Main Entry: 1ca·par·i·son   
Pronunciation: \k&#601;-&#712;per-&#601;-s&#601;n, -&#712;pa-r&#601;-\   
Function: noun   
Etymology: Middle French caparaçon, from Old Spanish caparazón   
Date: 1579   1 a: an ornamental covering for a horse b: decorative trappings and harness
  2: rich clothing : adornment
  
Melody
  
otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in reference to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic garments. But online I find horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-----Original Message-----

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding (if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too. Consider this 
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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Thank you Lynn for your advice, TV patterns have a good vibe about 
them, people who use them seem satisfied and being that you said they 
have good instructions makes me all the more certain that that will be 
where my patterns are purchased from. Ageless has all the same patterns 
they do, not sure which of their patterns classify as "ageless" as 
opposed to TV or folklore patterns, etc. I wonder if there is a haute 
couture's secret dressmaking and design bible floating around somewhere 
 from way back when that has all the good information on how to create a 
totally custom style, cause the styles you see reproduced (not to say 
there aren't reproductions being made so well you can't tell the 
difference) are rarely varied in pattern when there are so many unusual 
methods of bustle, skirt, sleeve, drapery and bodice treatments of the 
originals. We get to use what is available of printed patterns from 
then with inspiration taken from original examples but someone knew how 
to create them from their head and that's sweet. Lots of money to the 
person who develops the skill of custom pattern drafting in historical 
reproduction clothing. :)
Justine.


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http://www.westernersoutfitter.com/Vintage%20Patterns.htm
or 
http://www.riverjunction.com/catalog/patterns/Truly1.html
or the source
http://www.trulyvictorian.com/

-----Original Message-----
It is that time, I have to plan making not only my first bustle gown, 
but probably best if I get a bustle era ball gown knocked out of the 
way since I do not have one. What is a good pattern to start with? I 
keep finding a pattern on ebay called Buckaroo Bobbins and it is a 
pattern for a polonaise and bustle skirt but I am not sure if it would 
be a good pattern, it could be just as unathentic as the one or two 
incredibly inaccurate patterns produced by the large companies. The 
polonaise gown looks easy enough but with out any experience it may be 
alot harder than thought to be. Would it be best to try out that era 
first with something simple to get the feel for it? When I do make the 
ball gown, it isn't going to be an easy 1-2-3 peice like my others to 
date so maybe if there are any bustlers out there you could share some 
hints on how to get started and what to avoid/try. Goodnight and 
thanks, Justine:)


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or
	heraldricitems..., spelling is the key
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:53:47 -0500
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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My Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary gives these definitions:=20
Bard:
1. A piece of armor or ornament for a horse's neck, breast or flank.
2. To furnish with bards.

Caparison:
1. a. An ornamental covering for a horse.

b.Decorative trappings and harness.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or =
heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

The spelling may be throwing people off. According to Mirriam  Websters =
its; "Caparison"
  no "M" .
 =20
Main Entry: 1ca=B7par=B7i=B7son  =20
Pronunciation: \k&#601;-&#712;per-&#601;-s&#601;n, -&#712;pa-r&#601;-\   =

Function: noun  =20
Etymology: Middle French capara=E7on, from Old Spanish caparaz=F3n  =20
Date: 1579   1 a: an ornamental covering for a horse b: decorative =
trappings and harness
  2: rich clothing : adornment
 =20
Melody
 =20
otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by =
many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in =
reference to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic =
garments. But online I find horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-----Original Message-----

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding =
(if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too. Consider =
this=20
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=3Dproduct_detail&p=3D598&c=3D=
131

--=20
Cathy Raymond=20

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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      =20
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try =
it now.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or
	heraldricitems..., spelling is the key
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:49:38 -0500
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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>From www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf=20


Horse Barding is a very broad term. It is variously
defined as a piece of armor used to protect or
armor a horse1, an ornamental caparison for a
horse2, horse trappings3, and "sometimes referring
to the armour or the cloth decoration that served
to identify the owner"4. It derives from the Middle
English and Old French Barde and from the
Arabic Barda, which is a padded saddle or saddle
cloth.5 It was not unusual during a tournament or
when engaged in warfare for horse armor to be
used in addition to the cloth decoration.

1 Dictionary.com - The American Heritage=AE Dictionary of the English =
Language, Fourth
Edition, Copyright =A9 2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company.
2 http://www.onelook.com/?loc=3Dlemma3&w=3Dbard
3 Websters online - 1828 dictionary
4 http://www.onelook.com/?loc=3Dlemma3&w=3Dbard
5 Dictionary.com, Encarta.msn.com/dictionary



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or =
heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

The spelling may be throwing people off. According to Mirriam  Websters =
its; "Caparison"
  no "M" .
 =20
Main Entry: 1ca=B7par=B7i=B7son  =20
Pronunciation: \k&#601;-&#712;per-&#601;-s&#601;n, -&#712;pa-r&#601;-\   =

Function: noun  =20
Etymology: Middle French capara=E7on, from Old Spanish caparaz=F3n  =20
Date: 1579   1 a: an ornamental covering for a horse b: decorative =
trappings and harness
  2: rich clothing : adornment
 =20
Melody
 =20
otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by =
many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in =
reference to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic =
garments. But online I find horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-----Original Message-----

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding =
(if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too. Consider =
this=20
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=3Dproduct_detail&p=3D598&c=3D=
131

--=20
Cathy Raymond=20

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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h-costume mailing list
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      =20
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try =
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I would definitely start with a Truly Victorian pattern.  Their  website is 
wonderful with pictures of their outfits made up by themselves or  other 
customers! It really helps with the planning.  I would also second  the mention that 
the instructions are easy to follow.  I made up my first  bustle ball gown 
for a Costume College gala and there was no problem in getting  it together.  
And, as was mentioned, Heather and Laura MacNaughton are  wonderful about 
answering your questions.
 
Good luck!
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Fellicity
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts (was: A little help, please.)
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> "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
> of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
> gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
> Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
> together iij oz di di quarter"
>
> "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
> garters weying one ounce quarter di"
>
> Thanks for any help with this.
>
> Kimiko

Joan, I believe, has the right explanation for the above citation, but
be careful. In some cases, a reference will be clear that the odd
units refer to money rather than weight. Such as:

'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales 14d.' 1555. Petrie Archives

In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius = a
unit of money.  I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
the roman denarius was?  I leave to someone from the other side of the
pond to explain further.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200802161712.57164.cathy@thyrsus.com><IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEFFKBAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B02D23603@lynx.campus.muc.prv>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 21:07:35 -0500
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>From the French, caparaÃ§on...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rickard, Patty " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co


>I bet that's right - but I think it's caparison.
>
> Patty
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On 
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:39 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
>
> Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by many 
> a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in reference 
> to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic garments. But online 
> I find horse people calling it barding.
> http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
> http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
>>  Do they
>> make costumes for horses?
>>
>> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding 
>> (if
>> it isn't armour).
>
> Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too.  Consider 
> this
> item from Historic Enterprises:
>
> http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
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On Feb 12, 2008, at 12:06 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2  
> list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:
>
> see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

I won't exactly say that Norse costume experts on other mailing lists  
seem to be laughing themselves into stitches over this..... but.......

There are certainly some aspects of it that don't look very  
practical, such as the train. Also, as someone on another list  
pointed out, generally costume found in one place and time will show  
some sort of evolutionary relationships to the costume of other,  
similar places at the same time, before and afterward. But I'm not  
aware of anything remotely like this anywhere in northern Europe  
(disclaimer: but then, I'm hardly an expert....) To me, it would seem  
much more plausible that the placement of garment parts reconstructed  
here is the result of subsidence in the graves from which the  
originals came, rather than that they were actually worn that way.

There is certainly merit in challenging the established "applecart"  
of wisdom about how things were done, just to be sure no one is  
getting too complacent or thinks that we know everything. But some  
challenges have a lot of plausible reasoning and evidence behind  
them, and others, well, don't.

(I recently ran across someone who claims that French, Italian and  
Spanish all descended from Modern English, and that Latin never  
existed as a living language, it was merely scribal shorthand.  
Definitely one of the more far-out attempts to re-think established  
wisdom, and apparently without much in the way of evidence  
either...... http://itre.cis.upenn.edu/~myl/languagelog/archives/ 
005394.html#more)
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Thanks for the info on patent dating. When the machine was checked it was found to have patent dates of 1879 and 1880 and was styled as a "NEW RAYMOND". I haven't seen it yet as I'm tied up with the current show at the theatre.
 I'd love to have a treadle machine as that is what I learned on and sewed, in a factory, on late 19thC. or early 20th C. electric powered treadle machines.
I haven't a clue what to offer for it. Ideas anyone? I understand that there are pics, which I haven't seen yet, but I don't know how to post them.

Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 00:23:21 -0500
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On Monday 18 February 2008, Chris Laning wrote:
> On Feb 12, 2008, at 12:06 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2
> > list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:
> >
> > see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> > http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825
>
> I won't exactly say that Norse costume experts on other mailing lists
> seem to be laughing themselves into stitches over this..... but.......

You're absolutely right, Chris.  I know this because I'm also a member of some 
of the other lists and have participated in those discussions.  :-)

I'll add here that a lot of what Larsson has proposed in her reconstruction 
comes from a recent (2006) find in Pskov, Russia, of large fragments of what 
appear to have been an undertunic with a gathered neck and an apron dress.  
The Pskov team is preparing an article on their find which will be presented 
at NESAT in 2008 and be in NESAT X, but here's a good factual summary in 
English of the preliminarily released details:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm

The abstract for the NESAT paper gives some additional details that I wanted 
to raise here, for they present additional reasons counting against this 
proposed reconstruction:

"Related with this outer item of the costume [i.e., the presumed undertunic] 
was the largest piece among the silk details found. It was a complete upper 
part (152 cm long and 25.5 cm wide) of the apron. At equal distances from the 
centre, fragments of two loops or shoulder-straps were preserved. The loops 
themselves were found on the pins of two oval fibulae.

The silken trimming of the upper part of the apron consisted of several 
details cut from different kinds of silk. These all were cloths of the 
Byzantine type. On silken cloth no. 1, a woven pattern has been recognized 
with a scene of the Sassanian prince Bahram Gur hunting. In Europe, cloths 
with similar designs are known by finds from Milan, Cologne, and Prague. 
Within the territory of Russia they have been found at mountain burial 
grounds of the northern Caucasus. All of them are dated, at the latest, to 
the 9th Century being imitations of the earlier Sassanian textiles."

In Larsson's reconstruction, the part of the apron dress that is ornamented 
with this precious, antique (the Sassanian silks are dated 9th century, while 
the burial is dated late 10th century) silk goes *at the small of the back.*  
I can't imagine any Viking wearing a garment in a fashion that would make it 
hard to find the most precious ornamentation on the garment.

Overall, I agree with Chris's parting shot on this sort of daringly different 
reconstruction:

> There is certainly merit in challenging the established "applecart"
> of wisdom about how things were done, just to be sure no one is
> getting too complacent or thinks that we know everything. But some
> challenges have a lot of plausible reasoning and evidence behind
> them, and others, well, don't.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts (was: A little help, please.)
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At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:
> > "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
> > of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
> > gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
> > Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
> > together iij oz di di quarter"
> >
> > "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
> > garters weying one ounce quarter di"
> >
> > Thanks for any help with this.
> >
> > Kimiko
>
>Joan, I believe, has the right explanation for the above citation, but
>be careful. In some cases, a reference will be clear that the odd
>units refer to money rather than weight. Such as:
>
>'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales 14d.' 1555. Petrie Archives
>
>In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius =3D a
>unit of money.  I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
>refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
>the roman denarius was?  I leave to someone from the other side of the
>pond to explain further.

I believe that "d" is actually pence, not=20
shillings, in English money. We used to have,=20
prior to decimalisation on 15/2/71, a system of=20
pounds, shillings and pence, shortened to =A3.s.d.=20
Therefore the "14d" mentioned above is actually=20
14 pence, not shillings. I will try and check the=20
origins of the notation - but am busy, so it might take a while.

Suzi=20

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Money & weights
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Cynthia wrote:
>In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius = a
>unit of money.  I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
>refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
>the roman denarius was?  I leave to someone from the other side of the
>pond to explain further.

"d" means an old penny, not a shilling. "Denarius" was used as the Latin word
for it, perhaps because a denarius was a small coin in Roman times? 

Â£ s d = Libri, solidi, denarii.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Money & weights
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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IIRC, the first copper coinage was not issued until the Reign of either henry VIII or of Edward VI.
  My particular period of re-enactment is late-15th Century England, Brittany, & the Anglo-Norman Isles, - and at that time the shilling did not exist save as a "unit of account" - and everyone was paid in pennies - which were actually coins containing something over 97%fine  of real silver, [a plentiful metal in medieval Europe from great middle-European mines such as Kutna Hora]. 
  In my period, a Craft Journeyman in England could expect to earn an average 6 silver pennies for a day's labour. A ploughman - 4d/day.  A Knight on campaign - 24d/day for himself - with additional allowances for his  personal soldiery, for his servants, and for their maintainance.
  There are some really good online references for this sort of info; - and Peter Spufford has written 2 wonderful books on the subjects of money and of trade in medieval Europe - which are likely to be of interest to any re-enactor. Especiallt those of us who have done demos, and have had MoP ask "what did it cost? - or - How much did you earn?  - or - what were your wages?"
  At that time, for over a century previously, maybe longer [IIRC],  a number of the silver coins in circulation had the reverse design containing a cross; - and as it was not a crime at the time to "deface the coinage", -  various medieval coin hoards discovered in modern times have been found to contain silver pennies either cut in half or even cut in quarters along the axis of that reverse cross design. 
  In fact the medieval half-penny of the British isles was literally that - a silver penny cut in half - at least up to the Reign of Henry VIII - there was no half-penny coin minted. In France, the equivalent size & value coin to the British silver penny was the silver "sol" - but the greedy French Kings devalued the currency so much and so often that by the time I re-enact - one English silver penny was worth 28 "sols" from any French Mint.
   
   
  In Service to the Light, and to Drachenwald,
  Matthew Baker.

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
  Cynthia wrote:
>In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius = a
>unit of money. I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
>refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
>the roman denarius was? I leave to someone from the other side of the
>pond to explain further.

"d" means an old penny, not a shilling. "Denarius" was used as the Latin word
for it, perhaps because a denarius was a small coin in Roman times? 

£ s d = Libri, solidi, denarii.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts
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> At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:
> > > "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
> > > of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
> > > gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
> > > Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
> > > together iij oz di di quarter"
> > >
> > > "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
> > > garters weying one ounce quarter di"
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help with this.
> > >
> > > Kimiko
> >
> >Joan, I believe, has the right explanation for the above citation, but
> >be careful. In some cases, a reference will be clear that the odd
> >units refer to money rather than weight. Such as:
> >
> >'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales 14d.' 1555. Petrie Archi=
ves
> >
> >In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius =3D a
> >unit of money.  I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
> >refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
> >the roman denarius was?  I leave to someone from the other side of the
> >pond to explain further.
>
> I believe that "d" is actually pence, not
> shillings, in English money. We used to have,
> prior to decimalisation on 15/2/71, a system of
> pounds, shillings and pence, shortened to =A3.s.d.
> Therefore the "14d" mentioned above is actually
> 14 pence, not shillings. I will try and check the
> origins of the notation - but am busy, so it might take a while.
>
> Suzi

Thanks Suzi (and nice to hear from you!)
Were there silver pennies in the 16th c?  Still stuck on the denarius
thing, ya see,

And BTW, Kimiko, that's one big diamond & George jewel that you've got
described there.  The three oz of gold alone makes a pricey bauble at
today's rates.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts
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Cin wrote:
>> At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:
>>     
>>>> "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
>>>> of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
>>>> gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
>>>> Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
>>>> together iij oz di di quarter"
>>>>
>>>> "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
>>>> garters weying one ounce quarter di"
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any help with this.
>>>>
>>>> Kimiko
>>>>         
> <snip>
>
> And BTW, Kimiko, that's one big diamond & George jewel that you've got
> described there.  The three oz of gold alone makes a pricey bauble at
> today's rates.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
>
>   
I think you'll find it's regalia of the Order of the Garter! So price 
was unlikely to be a concern to the wearer.  See this site:  
http://www.royal.gov.uk/OutPut/Page3210.asp  - section below the fourth 
picture.

Jean


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Subject: [h-cost] Mari to the white courtesy phone
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Is Mari Alexander on this list?

Emma

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Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 20:56:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> And BTW, Kimiko, that's one big diamond & George
> jewel that you've got
> described there.  The three oz of gold alone makes a
> pricey bauble at
> today's rates.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com


It is a description of the one Henry VIII wore, from
the inventory accounts (Dress in the Court of King
Henry VIII). It also stated that his entire Garter
Collar weighed xlv ounces!

Something this brings to mind... this would have been
troy ounces, right? Anyone know for sure?

Kimiko





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Hello everyone, I have just been observing your posts to one another, 
fascinated by the topics. Earlier periods aren't quite my interest but 
I find the bits of knowledge you contain very interesting. That is my 
second problem as a costumer, scholarly research. Aside from going onto 
websites and reading in timeline books where all the information is 
already researched and digested for others to read, which is my main 
source of learning, where do you find this stuff? The only thing I have 
thought of is to go to a library but than I wonder, where to beging 
digging deep into the collection to find original sources of info. The 
Victorian fashion era seems to be vwidely available on an informal 
research scale but where may I look for resources of the hardcore 
information that serious historians and researchers study before 
relaying all they've learned to the rest of us? One of these I will hit 
the FIT book store up in the fashion district, since they have not only 
a large collection but a course focusing on preservation and curatorial 
studies. Take care:)
Justine


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=20
Is it just me, or has everyone received these last three posts several time=
s?
=20
Laurie
=20
> Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 14:31:42 -0800> From: cinbarnes@gmail.com> To: h-c=
ostume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts> CC: > =
> > At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:> > > > "the foreparte of the George of =
Dyamountes the Mayle> > > > of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer =
half> > > > gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged> > > > Dyamo=
unte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying> > > > together iij oz di d=
i quarter"> > > >> > > > "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of> >=
 > > garters weying one ounce quarter di"> > > >> > > > Thanks for any help=
 with this.> > > >> > > > Kimiko> > >> > >Joan, I believe, has the right ex=
planation for the above citation, but> > >be careful. In some cases, a refe=
rence will be clear that the odd> > >units refer to money rather than weigh=
t. Such as:> > >> > >'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales 14d.' =
1555. Petrie Archives> > >> > >In this example, the costs are is 14d, where=
 the d is denarius =3D a> > >unit of money. I'm not clear how or why the Br=
its kept using d to> > >refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a si=
lver coin just as> > >the roman denarius was? I leave to someone from the o=
ther side of the> > >pond to explain further.> >> > I believe that "d" is a=
ctually pence, not> > shillings, in English money. We used to have,> > prio=
r to decimalisation on 15/2/71, a system of> > pounds, shillings and pence,=
 shortened to =A3.s.d.> > Therefore the "14d" mentioned above is actually> =
> 14 pence, not shillings. I will try and check the> > origins of the notat=
ion - but am busy, so it might take a while.> >> > Suzi> > Thanks Suzi (and=
 nice to hear from you!)> Were there silver pennies in the 16th c? Still st=
uck on the denarius> thing, ya see,> > And BTW, Kimiko, that's one big diam=
ond & George jewel that you've got> described there. The three oz of gold a=
lone makes a pricey bauble at> today's rates.> --cin> Cynthia Barnes> CinBa=
rnes@gmail.com> _______________________________________________> h-costume =
mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listi=
nfo/h-costume
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Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.=A0You IM, we g=
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Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 13:13:13 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] repeated posts
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I see you haven't received a response in the past 4 hours. I only received
it once.
LynnD


On 2/20/08, zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Is it just me, or has everyone received these last three posts several
> times?
>
> Laurie
>
> > Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 14:31:42 -0800> From: cinbarnes@gmail.com> To:
> h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts>
> CC: > > > At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:> > > > "the foreparte of the
> George of Dyamountes the Mayle> > > > of the curates and Rivet of the sam=
e
> of Siluer half> > > > gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged>=
 >
> > > Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying> > > > together =
iij
> oz di di quarter"> > > >> > > > "a little George of gold to hang at a Col=
lar
> of> > > > garters weying one ounce quarter di"> > > >> > > > Thanks for a=
ny
> help with this.> > > >> > > > Kimiko> > >> > >Joan, I believe, has the ri=
ght
> explanation for the above citation, but> > >be careful. In some cases, a
> reference will be clear that the odd> > >units refer to money rather than
> weight. Such as:> > >> > >'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales
> 14d.' 1555. Petrie Archives> > >> > >In this example, the costs are is 14=
d,
> where the d is denarius =3D a> > >unit of money. I'm not clear how or why=
 the
> Brits kept using d to> > >refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was =
a
> silver coin just as> > >the roman denarius was? I leave to someone from t=
he
> other side of the> > >pond to explain further.> >> > I believe that "d" i=
s
> actually pence, not> > shillings, in English money. We used to have,> >
> prior to decimalisation on 15/2/71, a system of> > pounds, shillings and
> pence, shortened to =A3.s.d.> > Therefore the "14d" mentioned above is
> actually> > 14 pence, not shillings. I will try and check the> > origins =
of
> the notation - but am busy, so it might take a while.> >> > Suzi> > Thank=
s
> Suzi (and nice to hear from you!)> Were there silver pennies in the 16th =
c?
> Still stuck on the denarius> thing, ya see,> > And BTW, Kimiko, that's on=
e
> big diamond & George jewel that you've got> described there. The three oz=
 of
> gold alone makes a pricey bauble at> today's rates.> --cin> Cynthia Barne=
s>
> CinBarnes@gmail.com> _______________________________________________>
> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _________________________________________________________________
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finding information
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Justine wrote:
>...That is my 
>second problem as a costumer, scholarly research. Aside from going onto 
>websites and reading in timeline books where all the information is 
>already researched and digested for others to read, which is my main 
>source of learning, where do you find this stuff? The only thing I have 
>thought of is to go to a library but than I wonder, where to begin 
>digging deep into the collection to find original sources of info. 

First, you can always ask on this and other mailing lists. If you explain what types of things, centuries and geographic areas you're looking for, there will probably be lots of people who can give you book and article titles as a place to start. The more specific you can be, the better. You can also ask whether a particular book is considered to be a good one -- Iris Peacock's costume books, for instance, are not.

With regards to libraries, you're on the right track. There is *much* more information available in book form than online (and it's often easier to tell whether the information is any good). People who teach research classes now have to hammer it into their students' heads that the Internet is *not* your best or only source for serious research.

The bigger the library, the better the chances of it having useful material; university and college libraries are often the best place to start, especially if you don't live in a big city (big-city libraries are often good, too). Most university libraries are open to anyone who wants to walk in and look at things, and you can generally photocopy things even if you can't take them out. My local public university has a "Friends of the Library" program and I've had a card through them for years that lets me take out up to 10 books.

The way I always start when researching a new area is to look up the call numbers (whatever system your library uses) for a few books in the right general subject area (in your case, historical clothing). A reference librarian can almost always help you with such a search, and many libraries now have their catalogs online. It doesn't much matter exactly which titles you start with.

Step 2 is to go to the section of the shelves where those books are, and start looking at everything on the shelf that looks interesting or relevant. Pick out the ones where it looks as though the authors are basing what they say on actual research (i.e. probably _not_ "So-and-so's Book of Quick'n'Easy Stage Costumes" ;).

Step 3 (and this is the key!) is to turn to the back of the book and read the BIBLIOGRAPHY. This will list the books and papers the authors used for reference. *This* is the important section to photocopy, because now you can go looking for any of _those_ books and articles that look relevant. Find those and repeat the process ;)

One of the best sources of information on the nitty-gritty details of clothing is articles published in professional journals in history. The most practical way to discover which articles to look for is to get the references from someone else's bibliography. Again a reference librarian can help you sort out the cryptic note in the bibliography that says something like "J. Hist. Text. 48:3-39" (I made that one up). Bound copies of the journal may be available in the library or on microfilm, even if they're not near the main bookshelf you started with.

Of course, you will very soon begin to find books and articles that sound absolutely fascinating but that the library doesn't have. Inter-library loan is your friend here. You can generally ILL a specific book through your public library, although some library systems do this much better and more quickly than others (and some have to charge for the service, though most don't). 

Hope this helps -- ask more questions anytime.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finding information
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In a message dated 2/20/2008 4:50:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
claning@igc.org writes:

The only  thing I have 
>thought of is to go to a library but than I wonder, where  to begin 
>digging deep into the collection to find original sources of  info.


The notes in secondary sources should send you to the primary sources, many  
of which you may have access to--see below.
 
Your local university libary probably has its catalogue on-line. I, for  
example, live near the University of Maryland.  If I find a primary source  listed 
in a book, the first place I look is the Maryland card catalogue.   It is 
absolutely amazing what is available there on microfilm.  (Godey's  Lady's Book 
and Peterson's magazine, for example, both great sources for the  second half 
of the nineteenth century, should be available on microfilm--the  only drawback 
is that they are in black and white, not color.)  As was  pointed out, you 
can usually walk in and use a university library, no questions  asked.  If you 
live near the institution from which you graduated, check on  alumni 
privileges.  Some allow members of the alumni association borrowing  privileges.  I 
splurge for the $150 Friends of the Library membership at  Maryland because that 
also gets me inter-library loan privileges.
 
I don't know how other state work, but, here in Maryland, if one has a  
public library card, one can access almost all the other libraries in the state  
and have books from those other libraries sent to your local one--again, you can 
 do the hunting and the requesting on-line.  This is probably not so useful  
for primary source material, but may help you find that sought-after  
out-of-print 20th century costume book. 
 
It's all about the hunt, you know--you just keep going and going.
 
Ann Wass



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
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Subject: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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Help!!

My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they 
should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as 
usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to 
discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England 
and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a 
total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up 
to and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from 
post 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period 
specialists.

I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same 
artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dress. 
Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these 
portraits?

My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male members 
of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone has 
any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful.

And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears 
gown as an example of symbolism.

Many many many thanks,

pixel/Jen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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Janet Arnold has some excellent examples of this in her book "A Handbook=
 of Costume". One really good example is on pages 22-23 where she compar=
es 4 different portraits of Jane Seymour where, although all clearly int=
ended to be the same outfit, there are significant differences in the de=
tails. =

 =

Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com> wrote:

Help!!

My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they=
 =

should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as=
 =

usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to =

discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England=
 =

and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a =

total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up =
=

to and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from =
=

post 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period =

specialists.

I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same=
 =

artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dres=
s. =

Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these =

portraits?

My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male member=
s =

of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone ha=
s =

any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful.

And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears =
=

gown as an example of symbolism.

Many many many thanks,

pixel/Jen
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_____________________________________________________________
Click to make millions by owning your own franchise.
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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There are a few here, including three images of Jane Seymour (two 
paintings, one sketch):
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/

- Hope
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(answered privately)

On Feb 19, 2008, at 4:33 PM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> Is Mari Alexander on this list?
>
> Emma
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 23:07:52 -0600
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This is not Tudor or Elizabethan, but Bronzino did at leasttwo of the same 
person in the same dress with different sleeves.
Margaret


>
> Help!!
>
> My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they 
> should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as 
> usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to 
> discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England 
> and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a 
> total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up to 
> and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from post 
> 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period specialists.
>
> I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same 
> artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dress. 
> Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these 
> portraits?
>
> My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male members 
> of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone has 
> any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful.
>
> And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears 
> gown as an example of symbolism.
>
> Many many many thanks,
>
> pixel/Jen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finding information
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>  The notes in secondary sources should send you to the primary sources, many
>  of which you may have access to--see below.

This is probably the first best way to start out:)

I also recommend finding out what Inter-library Loan (ILL) scheme your
local library has. Some books you request will not be allowed out of
another collection but you may just get lucky.

Also google books is a marvelous place for finding transcriptions of
historic texts, I just recently (re)found a few myself:
http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/870338.html
Basically I did a search for a fabric term that I knew was in use in
the time I was most interested in (sadly my German specific terms
don't turn up much of anything). And using other spelling variants
turns up even more books:)

Project Guttenburg also turns up some interesting works and there are
all manner of catalogues online for similar types of searches which
you can then take to your library's ILL librarian:)

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:51:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Just an update... I've been perusing through some
Google books, and found this one.
A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress...
By James Robinson Planché
I think you can click this and view it:
http://books.google.com/books?id=f419oz-NWDgC&rview=1
Page 469 includes an entry on Slops, which gives more
illumination of the word with regards to women's
mourning clothing.

"That slops were not breeches as late as the reign of
Henry VII., is evident from the ordinances issued by
his mother, Margaret Countess of Richmond, for "the
reformation of apparell for great estates of women in
the tyme of mourninge," wherein the Queen's
gentlewomen are directed to wear " sloppes," which are
explained to mean mourning cassocks "for ladies and
gentlewomen, not open before." In the first year of
Henry VIII, also, according to Hall, upon Shrove
Sunday, after a goodly "banket" in the Parliament
Chamber at Westminster, a masque was presented in
which, amongst many other fancifully attired
personages (the King being one), there entered six
ladies, two of whom were in garments of "crymosyne and
purpull, made like long slops, embroidered and fretted
with golde after the antique fascion ; and over the
slop was a shorte garment of cloth of golde, scant to
the knee, fascioned like a tabard," &c. But though
they were not breeches,..."

There's a lot more, but that gets the drift with
regards to mourning clothing.

Kimiko





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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:51:24 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you're planning to cover up to 1600 and not just 1500-1600, you  
might consider expanding your talk to include discussion of 14th and  
15th-century images of saints.  Robin Netherton is the expert here,  
but I do a little version of Jeff Foxworthy's "you might be a redneck  
if" that I call "they might be a saint if" in my Costume History  
class.  Images of saints are particularly common in these centuries  
in Italy and the Low Countries, though they appear elsewhere as  
well.  They tend to be wearing fanciful and/or imaginary clothing,  
and for some reason modern people looking for research always seem to  
zoom in on them.

The key is that often saints are depicted holding or standing on  
something odd.  They might be holding a severed head, a plate of  
breasts, an eyeball on a stick, a spiked wheel, a tower, etc.  Or  
these elements might be somewhere else in the painting.  They often  
relate to the way in which the saint was martyred and were meant to  
identify the subject to the medieval viewer.

Another giveaway is of course a halo or a set of wings--biblical  
characters and angels can almost never be trusted for clothing  
research.  Saints are also often depicted holding a strange green  
feather-looking thing, which is meant to be a palm frond.

I tell my students to check out the caption first then start looking  
for the odd props.  In addition to saints and biblical folk,  
mythological and classical people depicted in medieval and  
Renaissance paintings are often not trustworthy for research.  If the  
person is meant to represent "Honesty" or some other abstract  
concept, they are probably not wearing "real" clothing either.

I encourage you to work this information in, because much of the bad  
research that I see depicts saints, biblical, mythological, or  
classical people.

Melanie Schuessler



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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On Feb 21, 2008, at 4:51 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> If you're planning to cover up to 1600 and not just 1500-1600, you  
> might consider expanding your talk to include discussion of 14th  
> and 15th-century images of saints.  Robin Netherton is the expert  
> here, but I do a little version of Jeff Foxworthy's "you might be a  
> redneck if" that I call "they might be a saint if" in my Costume  
> History class.  Images of saints are particularly common in these  
> centuries in Italy and the Low Countries, though they appear  
> elsewhere as well.  They tend to be wearing fanciful and/or  
> imaginary clothing, and for some reason modern people looking for  
> research always seem to zoom in on them.


For instance, Robin is fond of pointing out that elaborately  
decorated or jeweled bands along the hemline are usually confined to  
"queens, saints, angels and other people who don't have to worry  
about getting their hems dirty." ;)
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Subject: [h-cost] Glowing review of *Medieval Clothing & Textiles 2* ( TMR
	08.02.19 )
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I thought people would enjoy this review of the second volume of  
MC&T. (It's an annual: volume 4 is due out later this spring). The  
reviewer is clearly delighted with it and says some nice things about  
how the study of clothing and textiles illuminates other aspects of  
medieval life. Well, duh! We knew that!

Congrats, Robin and Gale!


> From: The Medieval Review <tmrl@indiana.edu>
> Date: February 20, 2008 9:30:46 AM PST
> To: tmr-l@indiana.edu, bmr-l@brynmawr.edu
> Subject: TMR 08.02.19 Netherton and Owen-Crocker, Medieval Clothing  
> (Ball)
>
> Netherton, Robin, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, eds.  <i>Medieval Clothing
> and Textiles</i>, vol. 2.  Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2006.  $42.20.
> ISBN: 1843832038, ISBN-13: 9781843832034.
>
>    Reviewed by Jennifer L. Ball
>         Brooklyn College
>         jball@brooklyn.cuny.edu
>
>
> Unlike many volumes of collected papers stemming from conferences,
> <i>Medieval Clothing and Textiles</i> makes no attempt at cohesion;
> rather, in this second volume in the journal, it compiles essays that
> use a breadth of approaches to the subject of dress and textiles.
> This is the forte of this journal and several of the essays can be
> used as case studies in methods to be applied to one's own research.
> As a vehicle for dress and textile studies, rather than simply a
> publication of DISTAFF sessions from the Leeds and Kalamazoo
> conferences [1], the quality of papers is notably high and will be of
> interest to others beyond medieval historians of textiles and dress.
> The eight essays are, with few exceptions, truly interdisciplinary
> encompassing the fields of archaeology, paleography, sociology, art
> history, literature and economics, and have a broad scope
> chronologically (seventh-seventeenth century).  Geographically
> speaking, however, this collection is limited to Western Europe with
> essays about Ireland, England, Italy, France and Germany.  Due to the
> constraints of the short review, I list the contents here by author
> and abbreviated subject, but speak of the articles thematically rather
> than writing a complete review of each of the articles.  The essays
> arranged chronologically are: Whitfield on dress in Irish "Wooing of
> Becfhola;" Owen-Crocker on the Bayeux Tapestry; Wright on textiles in
> French Romance; Farmer on Paris' textile markets; Jaster on English
> sumptuary laws; Leed on Renaissance cleaning techniques of textiles;
> Sherrill on fur in the Renaissance; and Nunn-Weinberg on English
> embroidered jackets in painted portraits.  The journal has a few black
> and white illustrations, no doubt an economic decision, and concludes
> with some helpful short book reviews and a detailed index; color
> illustrations, and a greater number of them, is a needed addition if
> funds ever permit.
>
> <i>Medieval Clothing and Textiles</i>, volume 2, will reach
> medievalists outside of the field of textiles and dress studies due to
> its use of material culture to illuminate broader aspects of medieval
> daily life, beyond the making of cloth and wearing of clothes.  Monica
> Wright's essay, among the strongest in the volume, illustrates the
> shift from gift to mercantile exchange and from women's/domestic work
> to men's/professional work, through an examination of French romance.
> Textiles were repeatedly used in the resolution of conflicts;
> characters withhold items they have made or make and give textile
> items.  Wright concludes that these acts uphold a traditional societal
> system in which women are the primary makers of textiles and a profit-
> economy had not yet emerged.  Textiles play a crucial role in this
> body of French literature and point to the larger dialogue about the
> professionalization of the cloth-making industry occurring at the time
> these romances were written.
>
> Also demonstrating the great economic impact of textiles is Margaret
> Rose Jaster's examination of sumptuary laws at the point that they
> were rescinded in early seventeenth-century England.  A distinct
> anxiety about the "impoverishment of the realm" (92) due to the
> consumption of foreign apparel and textiles presents itself in
> homilies, pamphlets and other writings of the day.  The texts the
> author discusses are often funny, while the laws themselves conversely
> seem like frantic attempts to put out a fire already out of control:
> the rage for garments and cloth from abroad.  The legislation, repeal,
> and subsequent discussion in the various forms of popular literature
> can't help but remind one of our (American) fretting the loss of the
> automobile industry to outsiders or our current obsession with oil;
> textiles were such a major economic force in medieval Europe, as essay
> after essay in this volume demonstrates.
>
> Some of the essays have paradigmatic frameworks that we expect: Paris,
> noted often as the birthplace of fashion, has a larger textile market
> than previously noted by scholars (Farmer essay) and Italian sables
> were markers of extreme wealth (Sherrill essay), for example.
> Exceptional however, is Drea Leed's fascinating look at the business
> of cleaning textiles.  An examination of the tips for stain removal in
> the fifteenth-century <i>Kunstbuch</i> illuminates value in a highly
> original way.  The manner in which a velvet or silk is cleaned is a
> strong indicator of value; soaking, in the water from boiled peas no
> less, is a method for less precious textiles, while targeting spots
> (of wagon grease, as one instruction notes) for removal is important
> for the most expensive velvets and silks (103-4).  Here again, the
> interest of the essay to non-textile specialists will be great as it
> demonstrates an advanced knowledge of chemistry at the time and points
> to a sub-industry of professional cleaning that we might normally
> overlook.
>
> Many of the essays in the volume use texts as evidence, as so many in
> the field of dress studies must due to the lack of surviving garments.
> Niamh Whitfield's comparison of garments described in the Irish story,
> "The Wooing of Becfhola," presents a sound methodological approach
> that should be read by anyone who reconstructs garments from literary
> descriptions.  Additionally, the author moves easily between
> paleography and archaeology, making the most of limited evidence to
> convincingly conclude that the dress described in Becfhola's story is
> contemporary to the writing of the tale.  I suggest, however, that the
> author commission professionally drawn reconstructions for future
> work, as the amateur sketch of Becfhola and Flann distracts from the
> solid arguments made in the text.
>
> Gale Owen-Crocker's highly original essay on the Bayeux Tapestry also
> focuses on text.  In this case the design process is imagined through
> careful reading of the inscription.  She posits a Norman, Latin-
> speaking patron telling an English artist the major scenes to be
> included and distinguishes other parts of the inscription and
> accompanying scenes that were, perhaps, <i>ad hoc</i>.  At first
> glance the close attention to punctuation, syntax, diction, and the
> like seems to have no place in a volume on textiles, but in her
> concluding pages, she demonstrates the importance of studying text and
> image side by side.  Significantly we gain a glimpse into little
> understood workshop practices and imagine how patron and artist(s) may
> have worked together on this famous embroidery.
>
> In addition to text, some authors use images as evidence for
> understanding textiles and dress--Whitfield uses sculpture and metal
> objects for comparison with the descriptions of dress to imagine early
> Irish clothing and Sherrill mines portraits for representations of the
> <i>zibellini</i>, fur stoles, often decorated with jewels, originating
> in Italy that became fashionable at the various courts of Western
> Europe.  It is the final essay by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, though,
> which is most compelling with regard to the use of images as textile
> evidence.  Through a contextualization of the embroidered jackets worn
> by dozens of women in the early seventeenth-century, the author gives
> us new readings of English painted portraits of noble women.  The
> jackets point to the practice of amateur theatre at court, known as
> masque; this exclusive hobby, open only to the court favorites,
> involved the wearing of costumes in high contrast colors--often dark
> embroidery on light ground--with a heavy use of metallic details to
> stand out and impress the audience.  Here it is also most unfortunate
> that we must rely on black and white images because we are forced to
> trust the descriptions in her essay, but that is no fault of the
> author's of course.  Nunn-Weinberg's work is made even more
> interesting by the inclusion of a case study of <i>Elizabeth Vernon,
> Countess of Southampton</i> (unknown, 1600) in which the subject
> critiques her queen through the masque portrait.  This reader however,
> was left with further questions, especially about the intended
> audience for such a portrait.
>
> The deeper contextual reading seen in the Nunn-Weinberg essay is
> unfortunately lacking in the article on fur stoles by Sherrill.
> Surely more could be said about the context for the social role of
> stoles beyond their obvious status as markers of great wealth.  The
> author leaves the suggestion that they were at one point fertility
> symbols or associated with the Annunciation largely unexplored.  The
> catalogue of representations and references to the stole will
> nonetheless be helpful for further study.
>
> Volume 2 of this series will engage anyone interested in the study of
> textiles and dress of western medieval Europe; additionally scholars
> of economic history, social history, literature and art history will
> find articles of interest.  However, as a Byzantinist, it is my hope
> that future volumes will reach beyond the West; there is no need,
> especially when discussing the textile industry that united east and
> west through trade and shared material culture, to limit the focus to
> Western Europe.  In fairness to the editors, this may be due to
> submissions received rather than editorial choice; if this is so,
> perhaps the journal needs to solicit papers in Byzantine, Islamic and
> other medieval studies newsletters.  Nevertheless the editors have
> kept the level of scholarship admirably high, particularly in the
> methods and interdisciplinary approaches used in the present volume,
> which bodes well for the future of the journal.
>
> Notes:
> 1. DISTAFF is Discussion, Interpretation, and Study of Textile Arts,
> Fabrics, and Fashion. While many of the papers come from the sessions
> at Leeds and Kalamazoo, papers are peer-reviewed by an editorial board
> and some are submitted without first having been identified through
> the conferences. <i>Medieval Clothing and Textiles</i>, vol. 2, ed.
> Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker (Woodbridge: Boydell Press,
> 2006), xiii.

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Subject: [h-cost] Crill's Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West
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Hi,
I just got my copy of Rosemary Crill's Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West. Oh WOW. Eighty-eight color plates. A beautiful, wonderful, book -- and for me, kind of the Missing Link on 17th and 18th century Indian fabrics for the European and American markets. It's gorgeous. 
Just had to share my excitement.
Lauren Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
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Thank you for your wonderful advice again, I never thought to look in 
the back of the book for the sources where the author did the research 
 from! This is something I got from ebay and thought it would be worth 
having, the original would be awesome but this is a copy of the entire 
book on cd rom:

"The History of Fashion in France or The dress of women from the 
Gallo-Roman period to the present time.
>From the French of M. Augustin Challamel.
By Mrs. Cashel Hoey and Mr. John Lillie
1882 "

It has 293 pages which are said to be all included in the disc and for 
the price I paid for it ($8) I am sure it will be worth something 
without losing much. This seems like a good place to start for my own 
collection, minus the dozens of Dover paper doll books my sister and I 
have accumlated over the years. I have the Godeys fashion plate book, 
and the history of underwear, and the history of the corset and there 
are others I want still but it is time to get into the real 
researching. Those books are good for at a glance information, and the 
pictures are stimulating too of course. Moore College of Art in Phila 
is where I went and they had a good library too, I think there would be 
no problem with me getting in there and looking around and perhaps 
atleast making printouts. they did have antique books in there that 
were costume porfolios but I think they were ethnic costumes, worth 
taking another look at though. Take care
Justine:)



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: slops for women
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Thank you for this. I've had other things going on and have not been
able to follow up my original question, but slops =3D women's mourning
clothes makes a lot of sense given the original context.

Allison T.

On Thu, Feb 21, 2008 at 7:50 AM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
>  Message: 10
>  Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:51:33 -0800 (PST)
>  From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
>  To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>  Message-ID: <192285.12169.qm@web32205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1
>
>  Just an update... I've been perusing through some
>  Google books, and found this one.
>  A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress...
>  By James Robinson Planch=E9
>  I think you can click this and view it:
>  http://books.google.com/books?id=3Df419oz-NWDgC&rview=3D1
>  Page 469 includes an entry on Slops, which gives more
>  illumination of the word with regards to women's
>  mourning clothing.
>
>  "That slops were not breeches as late as the reign of
>  Henry VII., is evident from the ordinances issued by
>  his mother, Margaret Countess of Richmond, for "the
>  reformation of apparell for great estates of women in
>  the tyme of mourninge," wherein the Queen's
>  gentlewomen are directed to wear " sloppes," which are
>  explained to mean mourning cassocks "for ladies and
>  gentlewomen, not open before." In the first year of
>  Henry VIII, also, according to Hall, upon Shrove
>  Sunday, after a goodly "banket" in the Parliament
>  Chamber at Westminster, a masque was presented in
>  which, amongst many other fancifully attired
>  personages (the King being one), there entered six
>  ladies, two of whom were in garments of "crymosyne and
>  purpull, made like long slops, embroidered and fretted
>  with golde after the antique fascion ; and over the
>  slop was a shorte garment of cloth of golde, scant to
>  the knee, fascioned like a tabard," &c. But though
>  they were not breeches,..."
>
>  There's a lot more, but that gets the drift with
>  regards to mourning clothing.
>
>  Kimiko
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Subject: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes
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Greetings:

I just joined this list and the fantasy list at the beginning of the 
week as these were the only costume related forums I could find.  I 
don't want to muddy up the list with off-topic stuff, so hopefully 
someone here can point me in the right direction.

I'm directing a play that takes place in the 1930's.  Finding 
authentic costumes isn't proving difficult, HOWEVER,

For one scene we need the actors to be able to do a quick change from 
plain grey to colorful tops while onstage, hopefully by throwing back 
a flap or cape/cloak of some sort.  Is anyone here involved in theater 
costuming and has experience with this sort of thing?  Or do you know 
where I can find this info?

Any help is appreciated.  Forgive me if this is a little off-topic.

Thanks,

Anthony Toohey
The Stage Hands
anthony@thetooheys.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:00:13 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You should address this to The Costumers Manifesto email list.  It's a 
Yahoo groups list.

Sylvia

On Feb 21, 2008, at 12:29 PM, Anthony Toohey wrote:

> Greetings:
>
> I just joined this list and the fantasy list at the beginning of the
> week as these were the only costume related forums I could find.  I
> don't want to muddy up the list with off-topic stuff, so hopefully
> someone here can point me in the right direction.
>
> I'm directing a play that takes place in the 1930's.  Finding
> authentic costumes isn't proving difficult, HOWEVER,
>
> For one scene we need the actors to be able to do a quick change from
> plain grey to colorful tops while onstage, hopefully by throwing back
> a flap or cape/cloak of some sort.  Is anyone here involved in theater
> costuming and has experience with this sort of thing?  Or do you know
> where I can find this info?
>
> Any help is appreciated.  Forgive me if this is a little off-topic.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony Toohey
> The Stage Hands
> anthony@thetooheys.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume
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I want to thank everyone who gave me some ideas of what to do with my 5+  
yards of black linen.  It may go for bodice lining primarily, but some of  the 
other non-monochromatic images were intriguing.
 
(I have to stop buying material for which I have no immediate use, I keep  
telling myself but I always give in!)
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:Finding Information
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 15:22:52 -0500
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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That does sound like a fun find, but do please be very careful of such
tertiary sources (overviews and fact books that aren't actually from the
period in question and just summarize information from sources which
themselves MIGHT refer to the original primary source, but who knows?),
especially Victorian ones. The road to hell is paved with the good
intentions of Victorian costume historians... These are the folks who
came up with images of 14th century gowns worn over curvy 19th c.
corsets and hoops...

So, enjoy the images, but if something strikes your fancy, turn to
sources a little closer to your period of interest to try to find what
the original actually might have looked like. And please, please, if you
have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
from library shelves....

Looking in the bibliography and in footnotes is indeed an excellent way
to find info. Sometimes a bit of digging turns up surprises-- I once
decided to look up a reference to medieval women's underwear that a lot
of people quoted from a book on Italian textiles by Maureen Mazzaoui.
The author footnoted her source for the statement. I went to find the
source. And discovered it was in a tertiary source with lots of
inventive line drawings and nothing to back up the claim, with no
further footnoting to follow up on. So, just because it's in a book,
don't take it as Truth! And have fun digging--it's like figuring out a
really complex and intriguing puzzle!

Astrida


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:55 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re:Finding Information
>=20
> Thank you for your wonderful advice again, I never thought to look in
> the back of the book for the sources where the author did the research
>  from! This is something I got from ebay and thought it would be worth
> having, the original would be awesome but this is a copy of the entire
> book on cd rom:
>=20
> "The History of Fashion in France or The dress of women from the
> Gallo-Roman period to the present time.
> >From the French of M. Augustin Challamel.
> By Mrs. Cashel Hoey and Mr. John Lillie
> 1882 "
>=20
> It has 293 pages which are said to be all included in the disc and for
> the price I paid for it ($8) I am sure it will be worth something
> without losing much. This seems like a good place to start for my own
> collection, minus the dozens of Dover paper doll books my sister and I
> have accumlated over the years. I have the Godeys fashion plate book,
> and the history of underwear, and the history of the corset and there
> are others I want still but it is time to get into the real
> researching. Those books are good for at a glance information, and the
> pictures are stimulating too of course. Moore College of Art in Phila
> is where I went and they had a good library too, I think there would
be
> no problem with me getting in there and looking around and perhaps
> atleast making printouts. they did have antique books in there that
> were costume porfolios but I think they were ethnic costumes, worth
> taking another look at though. Take care
> Justine:)
>=20
>=20
>=20
>
________________________________________________________________________
> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! -
> http://webmail.aol.com
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1203622143.21393@einstein.he.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 12:54:16 -0800
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Have the grey tops button up to the neck, with overlapping fronts "lapels",
rather like a military coat. Line the lapels with the bright colors you
want. Then, by opening the neck and folding back the lapels, you'll get a
quick color change. The rest of the top will still be grey, but not so
noticeable if the lapels are large.
Or just make the grey tops easily removable (Velcro or snaps), with the
colorful tops underneath.
You could also add/switch/flip scarves, capelets, etc. Do all the costumes
have to be the same? I might be fun to see how many different ways you can
switch to color.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Anthony Toohey
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:29 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes

Greetings:

I just joined this list and the fantasy list at the beginning of the week as
these were the only costume related forums I could find.  I don't want to
muddy up the list with off-topic stuff, so hopefully someone here can point
me in the right direction.

I'm directing a play that takes place in the 1930's.  Finding authentic
costumes isn't proving difficult, HOWEVER,

For one scene we need the actors to be able to do a quick change from plain
grey to colorful tops while onstage, hopefully by throwing back a flap or
cape/cloak of some sort.  Is anyone here involved in theater costuming and
has experience with this sort of thing?  Or do you know where I can find
this info?

Any help is appreciated.  Forgive me if this is a little off-topic.

Thanks,

Anthony Toohey
The Stage Hands
anthony@thetooheys.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 12:55:51 -0800
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I just saw "Becoming Jane" last night (thanks Netflix!) and she had some
very nice dresses made of linen.A dark blue walking dress, especially. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of FyneHats2@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:09 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume

I want to thank everyone who gave me some ideas of what to do with my 5+
yards of black linen.  It may go for bodice lining primarily, but some of
the other non-monochromatic images were intriguing.
 
(I have to stop buying material for which I have no immediate use, I keep
telling myself but I always give in!)
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume
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(I have to stop buying material for which I have no immediate use, I keep
telling myself but I always give in!)>>

Many of us do that--I bought twenty-seven yards of wool in the last couple 
of weeks. I know where about eight of it will be used, the rest I bought 
because it was on sale and really really cheap. (10 yards of a lightweight 
wool blend for $2.99 a yard!)

Dianne 

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Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
>> If you're planning to cover up to 1600 and not just 1500-1600, you 
>> might consider expanding your talk to include discussion of 14th and 
>> 15th-century images of saints.  Robin Netherton is the expert here, 
>> but I do a little version of Jeff Foxworthy's "you might be a redneck 
>> if" that I call "they might be a saint if" in my Costume History 
>> class.  Images of saints are particularly common in these centuries in 
>> Italy and the Low Countries, though they appear elsewhere as well.  
>> They tend to be wearing fanciful and/or imaginary clothing, and for 
>> some reason modern people looking for research always seem to zoom in 
>> on them.

Chris Laning added:

> For instance, Robin is fond of pointing out that elaborately decorated 
> or jeweled bands along the hemline are usually confined to "queens, 
> saints, angels and other people who don't have to worry about getting 
> their hems dirty." ;)

With you folks out there, I don't have to feel so guilty about being 
away from list mail for a couple of days!

The OP asked for post-1300 examples of "why visual sources should not be 
taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research." There are many, 
many reasons why.

One obvious issue is that of fanciful, allegorical, or symbolic 
depictions such as Melanie and Chris pointed out, but there are other 
issues as well. Some people assume, for instance, that they won't have 
problems as long as they stick with images of real people, but there are 
plenty of examples (some already brought up on this list) that 
underscore the point that artists depicting real individuals or 
historical scenes had other priorities than exact faithful reproduction. 
They might have been paid to make certain people appear rich, important, 
intelligent, pious, politically affiliated, etc., and each of those 
qualities could be expressed through specific clothing (which may or may 
not have existed, and may or may not have belonged to the person in 
question). Making it even more fun, sometimes artists deliberately 
included allegorical or symbolic elements in portraits of real people, 
to communicate messages that would be understood by the viewers. This is 
especially an issue when you're dealing with portraits of royalty or 
other important people. Funerary sculpture (brasses and effigies) often 
includes symbolic or traditional features peculiar its purpose (loose 
hair and garlands for women, armor for men who were not soldiers). So do 
some donor paintings, illuminations, and stained glass depictions that 
were designed to commemorate a person's position or accomplishments. 
Heraldic garments are a particular problem, as some types existed and 
others almost certainly did not.

Beyond that, you have to take into account restrictions of the visual 
medium involved, and these considerations differ among media. Colors 
used in paintings (achieved with pigments) do not exactly match up to 
colors of fabric (achieved with dyes). Tapestries tend to be good 
sources for real textile colors, but they are prone to showing disparate 
elements from different time periods within a single scene, the result 
of mixing and matching parts of cartoons dating from different periods. 
And on and on. Marcia Schlemm, known to some people on this list as 
Katrei in the SCA, gave a bang-up paper once at Kalamazoo showing how 
the preponderance of polka-dotted gowns in enamels were almost certainly 
a direct result of the process of enamel-making, not likely a 
representation of a particular fashion of dotty embellished garments.

I could go on, but I don't have the time for a long post. If I were 
speaking, it would take me an hour just to give you a good overview, and 
more to examine any one of these angles (as I know for a fact, as I've 
built multiple lectures around this issue). Other people are supplying 
good examples of specific artworks that might be useful for the class in 
question. But there's no shortage of material.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:06:22 -0600
From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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Chris Laning wrote:
> I thought people would enjoy this review of the second volume of MC&T. 
> (It's an annual: volume 4 is due out later this spring). The reviewer is 
> clearly delighted with it and says some nice things about how the study 
> of clothing and textiles illuminates other aspects of medieval life. 
> Well, duh! We knew that!
> 
> Congrats, Robin and Gale!

Thanks, Chris! People have been sending me copies of this one since it 
appeared. We're pretty pleased with the assessment; the reviewer is a 
respected costume historian in her own right and I hope to have the 
chance to work with her someday.

Two of the authors in the volume she reviewed (vol. 2) are regulars on 
this list: Drea Leed and Danielle Nunn-Weinberg. Congrats to them, too, 
for a job well done.

Reviews seem to take a long time to catch up to publications. We publish 
once a year, and our third volume came out in April 2007; see 
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM for contents. That volume includes 
a paper by listmember Melanie Schuessler on 15th-c. children's clothing.

Our fourth volume is at the printer this week and is due out in a couple 
of months. You can see the contents here:
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43833662.HTM
... and you can pre-order either through Boydell or other dealer such as 
Amazon (prices vary).

This volume has a number of papers that should be of especial interest 
to historic costumers (in addition to costume historians). I'm 
particularly pleased about a paper giving a close analysis of a 
surviving linen cap attributed to the 14th-century saint Birgitta of 
Sweden, complete with photos, measurements, and diagrams of construction 
and likely mode of wear for the cap itself, as well as detailed 
discussion and diagrams of the embroidered decoration. One of the two 
authors is a Danish clothing historian, and the other is a re-enactor 
and costumer from Belgium. I suspect we will be seeing Birgitta caps on 
re-enactors all over two continents after this comes out.

Another paper, by quilt historian Lisa Evans (who may be known to some 
of you as a re-enactor in the Boston area), starts with an entry for a 
decorated quilt in Henry VII's inventory and examines it from every 
possible angle. She takes into account the 16th century quilt industry, 
Henry's marital history, the symbolic use of heraldic motifs, and the 
political intrigues of the Tudor court to build an extremely plausible 
and logical account of the origin, use, and significance of this textile 
object. It reads like a mystery story.

For those of you who have heard me speak on the Greenland multi-gore 
gown: I've promised for a long time to do a proper written paper on 
this, and I've finally gotten it done. That's in volume 4 as well. Yes, 
there's a pattern diagram.

Other papers discuss the linguistic development of costume terms 
("wimple" and "cuff"), linen production in medieval Russia, references 
to scarlet clothing in Icelandic sagas, a new method for classifying 
archaeological textiles that takes appearance into account, and symbolic 
use of women's turbans in 15th-century French painting.

And now I'm working on volume 6. No rest for the wicked.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:13:53 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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Hi Margaret--
Could you please reference the Bronzino paintings you wrote about? I am VERY
interested ...
Thanks-
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of margaret
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references



This is not Tudor or Elizabethan, but Bronzino did at leasttwo of the same
person in the same dress with different sleeves.
Margaret


>
> Help!!
>
> My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they
> should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as
> usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to
> discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England
> and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a
> total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up to
> and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from post
> 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period specialists.
>
> I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same
> artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dress.
> Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these
> portraits?
>
> My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male members
> of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone has
> any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful.
>
> And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears
> gown as an example of symbolism.
>
> Many many many thanks,
>
> pixel/Jen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glowing review of *Medieval Clothing & Textiles 2* 
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On Feb 21, 2008, at 9:06 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>
> Reviews seem to take a long time to catch up to publications. We  
> publish once a year, and our third volume came out in April 2007;  
> see http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM for contents. That volume  
> includes a paper by listmember Melanie Schuessler on 15th-c.  
> children's clothing.

Actually, it's 16th-century children's clothing--1530s to be  
specific.  I just don't want any 15th-century fans to get excited, go  
find it, and then realize it's not what they thought.

Melanie
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 22:08:56 -0500
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On Feb 21, 2008, at 10:13 AM, Chris Laning wrote:
>
> For instance, Robin is fond of pointing out that elaborately  
> decorated or jeweled bands along the hemline are usually confined  
> to "queens, saints, angels and other people who don't have to worry  
> about getting their hems dirty." ;)

I'd like to point out that in the 16th century, highly decorated  
bands along the hemline were actually fashionable.  It's true that  
only certain people (the wealthy) could afford them, but they're not  
markers of imaginary clothing in the 16th like they might be in  
earlier centuries.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glowing review of *Medieval Clothing & Textiles 2*
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On Thursday 21 February 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:

> And now I'm working on volume 6. No rest for the wicked.

Wow.  Volume 6! Whatever became of Volume 5? ;-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
> On Feb 21, 2008, at 9:06 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>>
>> Reviews seem to take a long time to catch up to publications. We 
>> publish once a year, and our third volume came out in April 2007; see 
>> http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM for contents. That volume 
>> includes a paper by listmember Melanie Schuessler on 15th-c. 
>> children's clothing.
> 
> Actually, it's 16th-century children's clothing--1530s to be specific.  
> I just don't want any 15th-century fans to get excited, go find it, and 
> then realize it's not what they thought.

Oh, drat, sorry. I really did know the difference -- just typoed.

--Robin
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> On Thursday 21 February 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
>> And now I'm working on volume 6. No rest for the wicked.
> 
> Wow.  Volume 6! Whatever became of Volume 5? ;-)

I'm working on that too. Seriously. Most of the submissions for 5 are in 
hand and in various stages of review or editing, and the rest are due 
imminently. In between, we're starting to line up submissions for vol. 6 
(something I was working on today, so that's where my head was).

Or I could have just typoed again... I am juggling e-mails and notes 
among so many files right now I am lucky I know what year it is.

--Robin
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Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> And please, please, if you
> have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
> take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
> no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
> from library shelves....

Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for 
Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources 
that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of a 
misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous 
interpretations.

I pick up some volumes in used bookstores and at library sales, but I'd 
really rather spend my money on the good resources! So if you have a 
book that's too awful to use, and you want to take it out of of the 
hands of unwary costumers AND put it to constructive use, contact me and 
see if I have it already, or if I need it. I'll gladly reimburse for 
postage.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Bad books:
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After I checked my mail this morning and got all the tips about 
researching, starting with cconsulting the back of the book, I went and 
looked in the back of some of my books! One book wasn't a book on 
fashion, but in it the author rather studies and compares the 
differences between our society today and Victorian society, and how 
many of the things that are bad today are the result of things that 
changed from that era, it really is fascinating and she nails many good 
points in the head. The bibliography is huge! Most of the literature 
consists of books written in the 1980s and 90's but there are a few 
titles, most reprinted, from the 1880s and I noticed that most of those 
were reprinted by one specific publishing company, so I will look them 
up. I will be sure to send along any bad books I get but most of my 
purchases are done so with care to avoid that sort of problem. However, 
I recall quite a few of those basic costume through history books on 
our library shelves that were printed I guess mainly for kids doing 
reports on a specific time period or someone doing a play. Our library 
system also has the network so that you can reserve/order books from 
any other library within the system and it's fairly fast cause I did it 
once, our branch here, though the prettiest library you can imagine, 
has a very poor selection on such topics for serious researchers, 
sadly. Even the other titles from other locations were again those 
broken down overview books where one person has done all the hunting 
and gathering and sloshed it together into one book. I will remember 
now that whenever I have one of those, to get a piece of paper and pen 
or pencil and just browse through the back of it. I have an original 
book of etiquette from 1880 so I take much of the content of that book 
more seriously than I would a new book about the Victorian era only 
such form varied from place to place and what rules applied in one town 
may not have been weighed so heavily in others.


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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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=20
And as my mother used to say ..."and the righteous don't need any"
=20
Patty

________________________________



And now I'm working on volume 6. No rest for the wicked.

--Robin


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There are two diffrent copies out there of a portrait of Lucrezia 
Panciatichi app. 1540 in a red dress one with purple under sleeves is at the 
Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence and one with  red under sleeves whose 
citation I cannot of course find at the moment. I'm not sure if the second 
one was by Bronzino or one of his students.
Margaret


> Hi Margaret--
> Could you please reference the Bronzino paintings you wrote about? I am 
> VERY
> interested ...
> Thanks-
> Monica
> 
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>> And please, please, if you
>> have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
>> take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
>> no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
>> from library shelves....
>
> Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for 
> Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources 
> that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of 
> a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous 
> interpretations.

I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do 
historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources 
(including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian 
Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater).

andy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
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Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> On Feb 21, 2008, at 10:13 AM, Chris Laning wrote:
>> For instance, Robin is fond of pointing out that elaborately 
>> decorated or jeweled bands along the hemline are usually confined to 
>> "queens, saints, angels and other people who don't have to worry 
>> about getting their hems dirty." ;)
>
> I'd like to point out that in the 16th century, highly decorated bands 
> along the hemline were actually fashionable.  It's true that only 
> certain people (the wealthy) could afford them, but they're not 
> markers of imaginary clothing in the 16th like they might be in 
> earlier centuries.


Every century and culture has its real but impractical clothing. The 
Japanese fashion of nagabakama (those long pants that trail for a meter 
or so behind you) was never practical, and really only wearable if one 
never left the confines of castles or shrines with immaculately polished 
floors.

andy

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] slops for women?
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>snip< Shrove
> Sunday, after a goodly "banket" in the Parliament
> Chamber at Westminster, a masque was presented in
> which, amongst many other fancifully attired
> personages (the King being one), there entered six
> ladies, two of whom were in garments of "crymosyne and
> purpull, made like long slops, embroidered and fretted
> with golde after the antique fascion ; and over the
> slop was a shorte garment of cloth of golde, scant to
> the knee, fascioned like a tabard," &c. But though
> they were not breeches,..."
>
> There's a lot more, but that gets the drift with
> regards to mourning clothing.
>
> Kimiko

Now it really makes me want to scream "Pictures!  We want Pictures!" since I
can't visualize what they are supposed to look like.

Regina

>

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If you can get a copy of Roy Strong's Elizabethan Icon book, there are
portraits of sisters that are wearing the same dress but in a mirror image
(one faces right, the other left).  I think he suggests that paintings were
made of something like this and the face put in to order.

Regina (too lazy to go down and up stairs for the book)

> -
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Watch for this new series--Was: bad books
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In a message dated 2/21/2008 11:11:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com writes:

However,  
I recall quite a few of those basic costume through history books on  
our library shelves that were printed I guess mainly for kids doing  
reports on a specific time period or someone doing a play. 


I am one of the authors for a series on American costume that Greenwood  
Publishing has commissioned.  Their target market is primarily this sort of  
thing--reference books for public libraries and university libraries.   However, 
I'm really being put through my paces to include as much primary  resource 
material as I can, and also to provide what they call a "rich"  reference list for 
those who want to delve further.  I have tried to track  down those stories 
for my period (Federal era--1785-1820) and, if I can't find  an answer, I say 
so--a couple of times I've been frustrated that I have come up  against a dead 
end for some of those things that have been floating around  seemingly forever. 
 Also, my first chapter is an overview of US history,  and I've similarly 
found that even recent US history surveys get things wrong,  or, at least, not 
exactly right.  Alas, I can't tell you yet when the  series will come out, but 
I'm confident that, when it does, the volumes will not  be in the "bad books" 
category.
 
Ann Wass



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bad books:
From: "Barbara" <harpnfiddle@pobox.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Just out of curiosity, does anyone maintain a list of these "Bad Books"
for those of us in the early stages of our interest in historical costume?
I don't want to look at a book and realize after I buy it that the
research is suspect.

I have started a list of "good books" to look out for, but a "bad book"
list would be very helpful.
Barbara
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There is a very interesting book called _The Square Halo and other 
Mysteries of Western Art: images and the stories that inspired them_ by 
Sallie Fisher. 


Mary Piero Carey
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Some things depend on where you are.  In Ohio, for example, anybody can walk into a public university & use the collection, no questions asked.  (Your Tax Dollars at Work) Private schools can restrict access, but in practice, they usually don't notice another busy searcher in the stacks.  (I really hope the spate of muckers   shooting up college campuses doesn't get this kind of casual access shut down.)  Checking books out at colleges is a different matter, but guest cards are frequently available.  If you don't want to get a guest card, you could browse the shelves, make lists and then ask your local public library to get an interlibrary loan on the things you want.  I've heard that other states are more restrictive, but some are even looser than we are.


Worldcat is a delightful tool.  Go to www.worldcat.org  Put the name of your book or author into the search box.  Give it your zip code when it asks for it.  Hit search.  Your results will be given in order of increasing distance from your location.  You then plan your road trip, or decide to swamp the local ILL librarians.  <G>

All libraries are not on Worldcat, as it is a paid service that small libraries don't always have in the budget, but libraries big enough to have really deep costume collections are generally in it, at least in my neck of the woods.

Mary Piero Carey



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There is a short bad books list at Jessamyn's Closet.  The lady is  
very nice and I'm sure she would welcome suggestions for additions to  
the list.

http://jessamynscloset.com/badbooks.html

I second the recommendation against anything by John Peacock.

Melanie Schuessler



On Feb 22, 2008, at 8:24 AM, Barbara wrote:

> Just out of curiosity, does anyone maintain a list of these "Bad  
> Books"
> for those of us in the early stages of our interest in historical  
> costume?
> I don't want to look at a book and realize after I buy it that the
> research is suspect.
>
> I have started a list of "good books" to look out for, but a "bad  
> book"
> list would be very helpful.
> Barbara
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:47:55 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
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One thoing I do with my SCA apprentices is show the drawings/ engravings in
the bad costume references next to the original artwork. It really opens
their eyes.

Monica


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Andrew Trembley
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books


Robin Netherton wrote:
> Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
>> And please, please, if you
>> have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
>> take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
>> no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
>> from library shelves....
>
> Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for
> Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources
> that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of
> a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous
> interpretations.

I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do
historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources
(including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian
Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater).

andy

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On Feb 22, 2008, at 5:27 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:

> There is a very interesting book called _The Square Halo and other  
> Mysteries of Western Art: images and the stories that inspired  
> them_ by Sallie Fisher.


I'll second that endorsement. A delightful book and very useful: it  
explains a _lot_ of cryptic scenes in medieval paintings, and does so  
with a sense of humor.
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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>
> I could go on, but I don't have the time for a long post. If I were speaking, 
> it would take me an hour just to give you a good overview, and more to 
> examine any one of these angles (as I know for a fact, as I've built multiple 
> lectures around this issue). Other people are supplying good examples of 
> specific artworks that might be useful for the class in question. But there's 
> no shortage of material.
>
> --Robin
>
Hi, OP here. ;-) I am loving the references already posted--my partner is 
going to have to play editor and prune down my list or we'll never manage 
only an hour. *grins*

We're going for just a general overview, designed to make people maybe 
think first before they say "I know they wore X, it's in all the 
pictures!" After that, it might be developed into individual articles 
addressing specifics but we haven't gotten that far yet.

We have lots of sources for 12th, 13th, and early 14th century Europe, and 
a reasonable amount of 14th and 15th c., it's the later stuff that I have 
little to nothing of--either sources or knowledge--which is why I asked. 
The sheer quantity of knowledge on this list is astounding, and I thank 
you very much for your kind assistance.

IIRC (notebook is at the partner's house) we plan to touch on pretty much 
everything Robin mentions--it will be a challenge to keep it down to an 
hour. And I do have a copy of The Square Halo. ;-)

Again, thank you,

Jen/pixel/Margaret FitzWilliam
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Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:

> We're going for just a general overview, designed to make people maybe 
> think first before they say "I know they wore X, it's in all the 
> pictures!" ... we plan to touch on pretty 
> much everything Robin mentions--it will be a challenge to keep it down 
> to an hour. 

So what lucky group will get the benefit of this class, and when? It 
sounds like a useful service. I hope once it's developed, you'll be able 
to re-use it for other groups.

--Robin
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric storage
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Hi,  I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
locker (climate controlled). The problem is that when I took a bunch of
stuff out of the attic at my current place, I found a silver fish (a bug
that eats fabric among other things).  I'm repacking, throwing away the
boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned that
I might take a bug or two with me.

Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack fabric
for storage? I was thinking that that way I could at least isolate my best
stuff.
But I live in the great northwest where it is rather damp and I am worried
that things might just mold if I do that.

Does anyone have suggestions?

Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)

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As a rule of thumb, avoid absolutely anything that has redrawings (sketches  
etc) unless it gives the actual source of the image.
 
Generally it helps to avoid anything that covers a huge timespan in one  
volume, unless it's a compression of prior multi volumes, or for use as merely a  
general overview.
 
 
In fact - any book that doesn't give its sources specifically - whether  
written or pictorial.
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 22/02/2008 19:01:16 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Just out  of curiosity, does anyone maintain a list of these "Bad  
>  Books"
> for those of us in the early stages of our interest in  historical  
> costume?
> I don't want to look at a book and  realize after I buy it that the
> research is suspect.
>
> I  have started a list of "good books" to look out for, but a "bad  
>  book"
> list would be very helpful.
> Barbara
>  _______________________________________________


 



   
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Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:

  COMPLETELY off topic, but the above would be a great name for something -
a law firm, a girl band..... ;-)
   Sorry,  had to say it.

   And kinda on topic - the palm fronds in saint pics in western countries
(Italy, Spain, etc) generally denote martyrdom.  In eastern iconography,
martyrdom is indicated by the saint holding a cross....

Liadain


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  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great =
Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes =
offered
on eBay....
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
    I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, =
and
a couple of volumes of Norris....

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric storage
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scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
>  I'm repacking, throwing away the
> boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned that
> I might take a bug or two with me.
>   
There is a spray for silverfish. I had them in Texas, they just appeared 
one day. When I moved what we did was my housemate printed sheets of 
paper that said "silverfish poison" or somesuch, and after spraying them 
with the stuff we placed them inside the cardboard packing boxes, 
outside the plastic bags my fabric was in. Havent seen one of the little 
buggers since.



Dawn


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Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> There is a short bad books list at Jessamyn's Closet.  The lady is 
> very nice and I'm sure she would welcome suggestions for additions to 
> the list.
>
> http://jessamynscloset.com/badbooks.html 

Some of those books really are not that bad. What a lot of people forget 
when doing research of any kind is that you need more than a single 
source. I don't know if they still teach that in grade school, to use at 
least 3 sources -- and not one of them can be the encyclopedia. By the 
time you hit high school or college it should have been taught, but 
there still seem to be a lot of adults who base their evidence off a 
single drawing or portrait.

Further, the list on that website was taken (without credit) from an 
article in the SCA publication Compleat Anachronist #39 Costume Studies 
II, which itself was reprinted from a newsletter series called "Seams 
Like Old Times". The issue should still be available from the SCA stock 
clerk for $4 or $5. There is a lengthy annotation for each entry which 
explains WHY it is a bad source, and the bibliography -- which is 33 
pages long -- also has a number of good recommended sources in it. 
Although most of the books listed date from the 40's to the 70's and 
have been out of print for decades, they still show up and can be useful 
sources.


Dawn

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Some of those books really are not that bad.
...
> Although most of the books listed date from the 40's to the 70's and have 
> been out of print for decades, they still show up and can be useful 
> sources.

Along those lines, as I am busy spending scads of time looking for wills & 
inventories on Google books, I'd like to make sure that people don't get 
confused and think that everything written on historical matters during the 
era of Bad Costuming Books is worthless.  People in the 19th century seemed 
to have a positive mania for transcribing very useful historical documents.

-E House 

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In a message dated 2/22/2008 9:06:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

http://jessamynscloset.com/badbooks.html



***************
 
She lists
 
"Braun and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures"
 
I'm sorry but I love this book. However, I also know it's from  the 1840's. 
[You can clearly see it in the silhouettes of the women's  clothes...in any 
period] This makes it kinda fun, especially when they do the  Orient. And I love 
the Nationalistic costumes...which are indeed costumes. I  think it's worth 
having. But no one in their right mind would consider it a  completely accurate 
history.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bad books:
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:10:05 -0500
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On Friday 22 February 2008, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/22/2008 9:06:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> melanie@faucet.net writes:
>
> http://jessamynscloset.com/badbooks.html
>
>
>
> ***************
>
> She lists
>
> "Braun and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures"
>
> I'm sorry but I love this book. However, I also know it's from  the 1840's.
> [You can clearly see it in the silhouettes of the women's  clothes...in any
> period] This makes it kinda fun, especially when they do the  Orient. And I
> love the Nationalistic costumes...which are indeed costumes. I  think it's
> worth having. But no one in their right mind would consider it a 
> completely accurate history.

There are definitely reasons to have some of these "bad" books (as she said, 
Robin Netherton collects them as evidence of different types of 
misconceptions about the costume of earlier periods that have infected the 
accepted "knowledge" across the history of costume research).  I don't detest 
Peacock, for example, because though he can't draw period silhouettes with 
great accuracy his timeline books give a useful general idea of types of 
change over time--particularly if you are already familiar with period styles 
from period art and other sources.

The biggest generalization I would make about the "bad" books is that they 
should not be given as a first, second, or third book to beginners, because 
they tend to give people the wrong mindset and other kinds of wrong ideas 
about historic costume and costume research.  I was fortunate in that the 
first costume history books I encountered were the ones written by the 
Cunningtons.  They use redrawings, true, but they're reasonably faithful 
redrawings, usually with indications of what the original source is, and they 
are steeped in the idea that period art should be a first stop in attempting 
to learn about period costume.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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On Feb 22, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Exstock wrote:

> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
>> Some of those books really are not that bad.
> ...
>> Although most of the books listed date from the 40's to the 70's  
>> and have been out of print for decades, they still show up and can  
>> be useful sources.
>
> Along those lines, as I am busy spending scads of time looking for  
> wills & inventories on Google books, I'd like to make sure that  
> people don't get confused and think that everything written on  
> historical matters during the era of Bad Costuming Books is  
> worthless.  People in the 19th century seemed to have a positive  
> mania for transcribing very useful historical documents.


They did indeed, and it's a great help. I would never say *all*  
Victorian sources were bad; it's more complicated than that. Although  
any Victorian source needs to be checked out -- and we should be  
doing that anyway.

I think the problem is mainly that Victorian writers on the Middle  
Ages and Renaissance were very, very confident. They were *certain*  
that they could look at a fragmentary, incomplete artifact and  
"restore" it to what it looked like when it was new.  They also seem  
to have been fairly relaxed about generalzing from very few  
examples.  Modern researchers are much more cautious, and try to  
question their own biases and to not make any assumptions beforehand.

I'd still say "not reliable" is a good starting assumption when  
looking at Victorian sources, but that doesn't make them useless.
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Kohler


Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models), and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of his early 19th century bodices as a guide.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 2:52 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information)



  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on eBay....
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
    I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of Norris....

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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annbwass@aol.com wrote:

> Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models), and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of his early 19th century bodices as a guide.

The patterns are maybe better for the later periods; I don't know that 
material, so I can't judge. At least for later garments, there was 
better extant material to work with, which is still the case for people 
researching those periods today.

However, some of the patterns for medieval garments in Kohler are pure 
fantasy (like the 12th-century dress with curved seams under the 
breasts). Others are early attempts that have since been revised by 
better research (like the Golden Gown pattern that inserts a waistline 
seam and misidentifies back and front). And many of the pattern 
drawings, IIRC, are presented as fact without making clear which are 
taken from real garments and which are simply someone's conjecture.

Kohler also is guilty of making sweeping statements that sound more 
authoritative than there is evidence for. Much of what's in that book 
has been repeated as fact by later authors and become enshrined as such 
in the literature. For instance, there's that "14th century" sleeveless 
chemise for which the provenance was never accurately determined (and it 
is lost, probably destroyed, so we'll never know).

Some of the material in the book, of course, was not Kohler's own, but 
must have been added by Emma Von Sichart, who revised the book 
substantially for the 1928 edition -- for instance, to include the 
just-published Greenland finds. Kohler himself died in 1876. So there's 
a mix of older and not-so-old scholarship in that book, and possibly 
some inconsistencies arising from that.

--Robin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
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In a message dated 2/22/2008 4:44:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

The  patterns are maybe better for the later periods; I don't know that  
material, so I can't judge. 


Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,  
and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric storage
References: <200802121901.m1CJ17os014992@net.indra.com>	<200802121628.05454.cathy@thyrsus.com>	<200802122201.m1CM13om032778@net.indra.com>	<200802121808.33128.cathy@thyrsus.com>	<Pine.LNX.4.61.0802201134360.4370@rocky.itasca.net>	<6C2A0530-54A1-475A-80CA-1345FCC63DD7@faucet.net>	<A84B1DF6-F7CF-4F69-B42B-C8AEA58ECA9D@igc.org>	<47BE26DB.7010807@netherton.net>	<Pine.LNX.4.61.0802212230590.27215@rocky.itasca.net>	<47BF0CCE.2090906@netherton.net>
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I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags as 
I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags for 
garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen them 
advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, blankets, 
pillows, etc. I don't know how effective they are. Another thought I had 
was those zippered bags like the ones that comforters come in when they 
are new. I'm sure you could find them in a storage/organization type 
store. Or how about tupperware tubs? I know they don't seal airtight, 
but unless you are going to be diving into them often, you could seal 
the lid with duct tape.

I hope that helps!

Natalie



scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
> Hi,  I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
> locker (climate controlled). The problem is that when I took a bunch of
> stuff out of the attic at my current place, I found a silver fish (a bug
> that eats fabric among other things).  I'm repacking, throwing away the
> boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned that
> I might take a bug or two with me.
>
> Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack fabric
> for storage? I was thinking that that way I could at least isolate my best
> stuff.
> But I live in the great northwest where it is rather damp and I am worried
> that things might just mold if I do that.
>
> Does anyone have suggestions?
>
> Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)
>
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I have several books that I (and others) consider to be not good - some of  
them (eg Kohler) come in handy for the photos if nothing else...
 
But I do tend to find that they come in handy as a design source for modern  
clothes  :o)
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 23/02/2008 00:44:02 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I am the  proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain
and  Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe  this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes offered
on  eBay....
But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk.  :-P
I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have  Peacock, and Kohler, and
a couple of volumes of  Norris....

Liadain







   
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric storage
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:50:19 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My 2 cebts worth:

I have used the Space Bags.  They are great to keep stuff dry and=20
clean.  Also reduces bulk, somewhat, because they suck the excess air=20
out.

I cannot comment if they are "archival quality".  I imagine that clean=20
and dry is better than damp.

Fill the bags on a low humidity day, so the fabrics don't bring excess=20
moisture into the sealed bag environment.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 22, 2008, at 7:43 PM, Natalie wrote:

> I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags=20
> as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags=20
> for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen=20
> them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, blankets,=20
> pillows, etc. I don't know how effective they are. Another thought I=20
> had was those zippered bags like the ones that comforters come in when=20
> they are new. I'm sure you could find them in a storage/organization=20
> type store. Or how about tupperware tubs? I know they don't seal=20
> airtight, but unless you are going to be diving into them often, you=20
> could seal the lid with duct tape.
>
> I hope that helps!
>
> Natalie
>
>
>
> scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
>> Hi,  I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
>> locker (climate controlled). The problem is that when I took a bunch=20
>> of
>> stuff out of the attic at my current place, I found a silver fish (a=20
>> bug
>> that eats fabric among other things).  I'm repacking, throwing away=20
>> the
>> boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned=20
>> that
>> I might take a bug or two with me.
>>
>> Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack=20
>> fabric
>> for storage? I was thinking that that way I could at least isolate my=20
>> best
>> stuff.
>> But I live in the great northwest where it is rather damp and I am=20
>> worried
>> that things might just mold if I do that.
>>
>> Does anyone have suggestions?
>>
>> Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Susan,

The vacuum storage topic was just discussed on another list, and the 
consensus was that for some things it would be OK, but anything with 
a texture or nap would be damaged.  Reason is that you are 
compressing wrinkles into the fabric, so a lot of ironing would be 
necessary when removing the fabric, and things with nap, or delicate 
fabric, might be permanently wrinkled.  One person mentioned a 
quilted comforter that came out very flat and could not be re-fluffed.

If you have time, for the stuff you can't wash, put your fabric in 
normal zipper bags and stick them in the freezer for a couple of days 
to a week.  Take them out of the bags to warm up (to avoid 
condensation) then when they're warm and dry, re-pack them.  The 
freezer should kill any remaining bugs.

Good luck!
Sandy

At 12:39 PM 2/22/2008, you wrote:

>Hi,  I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
>locker (climate controlled). The problem is that when I took a bunch of
>stuff out of the attic at my current place, I found a silver fish (a bug
>that eats fabric among other things).  I'm repacking, throwing away the
>boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned that
>I might take a bug or two with me.
>
>Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack fabric
>for storage? I was thinking that that way I could at least isolate my best
>stuff.
>But I live in the great northwest where it is rather damp and I am worried
>that things might just mold if I do that.
>
>Does anyone have suggestions?
>
>Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
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I find that the Kohler book is a good place to start when I want to get a
vague idea before looking into a new period. I've come across a lot worse
"beginners" books, some being x-mas presents from evil friends.

My personal pet pieve is an early 15thC period book with fairly accurate
drawings of weapons and a mixture of Disney medieval and better documented
drawings of garments. I've threatend violence if anybody uses that book as
a source again for garments, as the personal favorites always turns out to
be the fantasy garments. I'd rather see Disney's Sleeping Beauty used as a
source to be honest.
:-)

Gunvor




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Hi all,
I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with =
my interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided =
to leave.
Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will =
have manny interresting disgussions in the future.=20
Take care.............

Bjarne 
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:58:29 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne,

Please remember us and send photos of your Fabulous Creations.

We will miss you.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 23, 2008, at 10:01 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

> Hi all,
> I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with=20
> my interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have=20
> desided to leave.
> Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you=20
> will have manny interresting disgussions in the future.
> Take care.............
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] body measurements
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Hi, 
   
  I'm searching for some information on English names for body measurements. I mean the body measurements that are necessary for pattern drafting. I need to translate instructions for taking body measurements for my webpage to English and I'm not very sure of all the names, I've seen many variations on how to call the different measurements on the internet, but I'm sure that officially there aren't many versions (it's all sure to be in some ISO norm, but if I could only find it).
   
  The best I've found was on this webpage with pattern drafting software:
  http://www.leenas.com/English/Standard_measurements.html
  but still, there aren't all the measurements and I'd like to have something else to compare.
   
  So if you know of any good source on this, either in English with descriptions, or some German-English translation, I'd be very thankful for it:-)
   
  Zuzana
   

       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Subject: [h-cost] Digest 68?
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Was there a Digest vol. 7, issue 68?  I suspect there was, because I  
seem to have missed some queries that are now being answered.  :-)

Would someone please forward no. 68 to me?

TIA,
Suzanne
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  True!  He's just another "don't take it as gospel" guy.   And he DOES
show'discuss something besides English clothing, which was about all we
could lay hands on in The Bad Old 2-towels-plus-safety-pins=3Dtabard =
days!
<G>

Liadain
Finding something good in almost EVERY book...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of annbwass@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 2:30 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was:
FindingInformation)




Kohler


Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live =
models),
and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one =
of
his early 19th century bodices as a guide.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 2:52 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding
Information)



  I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of "Ancient Costumes Of Great =
Britain
and Ireland", by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814.
Maybe this is the source of the "Druid sleeves" on half the costumes =
offered
on eBay....
  But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P
    I seem to be collecting Bad Books.  I also have Peacock, and Kohler, =
and
a couple of volumes of Norris....

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands=20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,  
> and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.

And I think that's one of the dangers for Kohler, particularly for 
beginners.  If they see the extant garments with patterns in the latter 
part of the book, and the smattering of extant garments with layouts for 
earlier periods, they could very well conclude that all the layouts are 
based on extant garments--including that bliaut with the "breast bags" 
that Robin mentioned earlier.

"Bad" books are fascinating in their own right as attempts to understand 
historic costume, often by comparing it to whatever was contemporary to 
the writer, but only for more advanced researchers. 

Susan

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Don't forget us completely Bjarne!  You do exquisite work.  Is there any way
you can remain able to post, but not be inundated by mail you don't want to
read?  Maybe the digests so you could just hit "delete"?

In the meantime, Goodbye, Good Luck.

Wanda

> ----
> Hi all,
> I hate to do this, but i don't think that h-costume has any topics
> with my interests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i
> have decided to leave.
> Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope
> you will have many interesting discussions in the future.
> Take care.............
>
> Bjarne
> ________

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vaccuum bags.....
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I have used the 1 st generation vaccuum bags with mixed success, I packed  away a large bag with sweaters in them ,all nice and flat, under my bed. About sweater time rolling around ,I tried to remove said bag. Unhappily, the seal failed along the way and my sweaters "expanded" .I had to have 2 people jack up the foot of the bed so I could extradite them. All the while I thought they were "safe" and sealed up they were open and gathering dust,smells and moisture.
  The bags I bought were from the original designer, not a Pic n save knock off, they had the "zip lock "bag trac along the top and I figured failed at the very edges of the trac. Maybe a strip of duct tape might have aleveated the problem,but they never mention that in the info-mercials.
  The very small sized bags seem to do better in not cutting loose the seal.,maybe size is a factor.Or if you don't "smoosh" the all the way down to the krinkley stage, the may work ok
  My experience on the matter,
   Melody
  

Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
  My 2 cebts worth:

I have used the Space Bags. They are great to keep stuff dry and 
clean. Also reduces bulk, somewhat, because they suck the excess air 
out.

Susan


On Feb 22, 2008, at 7:43 PM, Natalie wrote:

> I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags 
> as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags 
> for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen 
> them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, >
> I hope that helps!
>
> Natalie
>
>
>
> scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
>> Hi, I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
>> locker (climate controlled). >> I might take a bug or two with me.
>>> Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack 
>> fabric for storage? I>>
>> Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)
>>


       
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 23:39:05 -0500
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne - I will miss you and your marvelous creations.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Sat 2/23/2008 10:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT a farewell.



Hi all,
I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with =
my interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided =
to leave.
Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will =
have manny interresting disgussions in the future.
Take care.............

Bjarne
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vacuum bags.....
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 02:56:59 -0600
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The early forms had problems with keeping a seal I have had better luck with
the new ones. The originals I keep for things that just need to be stored
but not flattened. I did have a problem opening the new "box" form after I
had sealed and vacuumed the air out. Definitely had a good seal as it
wouldn't open and I ended up ripping it. :P

-----Original Message-----
I have used the 1 st generation vaccuum bags with mixed success, I packed
away a large bag with sweaters in them ,all nice and flat, under my bed.
About sweater time rolling around ,I tried to remove said bag. Unhappily,
the seal failed along the way and my sweaters "expanded" .I had to have 2
people jack up the foot of the bed so I could extradite them. All the while
I thought they were "safe" and sealed up they were open and gathering
dust,smells and moisture.
  The bags I bought were from the original designer, not a Pic n save knock
off, they had the "zip lock "bag trac along the top and I figured failed at
the very edges of the trac. Maybe a strip of duct tape might have aleveated
the problem,but they never mention that in the info-mercials.
  The very small sized bags seem to do better in not cutting loose the
seal.,maybe size is a factor.Or if you don't "smoosh" the all the way down
to the krinkley stage, the may work ok
  My experience on the matter,
   Melody


Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
  My 2 cebts worth:

I have used the Space Bags. They are great to keep stuff dry and
clean. Also reduces bulk, somewhat, because they suck the excess air
out.

Susan


On Feb 22, 2008, at 7:43 PM, Natalie wrote:

> I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags
> as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags
> for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen
> them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, >
> I hope that helps!
>
> Natalie
>
>
>
> scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
>> Hi, I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
>> locker (climate controlled). >> I might take a bug or two with me.
>>> Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack
>> fabric for storage? I>>
>> Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)
>>



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Subject: [h-cost] looking for lg. checked fabric 
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Please send replies to me directly -- even though I have reinstated my =
mail delivery, I'm still not getting any messages from this list.


I am looking for cotton fabric (possibly poly/cot blend) in a LARGE blue =
picnic check.  I found a suitable fabric at Joann's and Walmart, but in =
both places it only comes in red.

Blue preferred, but black or purple might do. The check needs to be =
quite large though -- the fabric we saw had solid colored squares about =
1.25 inches. Bigger squares would be okay too. Not smaller than an inch, =
though, as it need to say "gingham check" from a long distance view. =
Anything smaller dissolves visually.

Depending on width, I'll probably need 4-8 yards.  Since I know I would =
ask if someone else posted this -- the answer is : we are making a =
Dorothy (wiz of oz) dress for a horse.  No, not a large ugly woman, an =
actual 4-legged equine.

I'm checking with various groups first, then I'll start looking at =
on-line stores.
Thanks!
Denise B
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A question of height....
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Hi All,
   I don't know if this question has been asked in the past and answered, but I'd like to know, if not.
  Is there any definitive answer on how tall Elizabeth (the first) was? Are there any  "tailor's notes" on her physical  dimensions ?
   
  I know her cousin was quite tall of a woman in her age, how did Lizzy measure up?
   
  Thanks ,
  Melody

       
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vacuum bags.....
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:51:03 -0500
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I have never worked with those bags before, they look like they'd be 
really good to have around, if they work as they should however. My 
problem isn't in storing new fabrics so much as how to safely store 
away my garments. I am familiar with techniques for storing away 
vintage and antique textiles and garments, it's just that my house 
really prohibits me to do so well spacewise. At the moment most of my 
peices are hanging from padded hangers, with their skirt weight 
alleviated from gravity by being draped softly over a second hanger to 
remove the strain. I go in and rehang them every month or so so that 
creases don't form and any strain doesn't continually linger in the 
same place. I fear moths, since there seem to be many around here and 
this summer I plan first to remove the carpeting from my second floor, 
which is ancient (when was the last time people carpeted with red and 
rust orange?? Probably when people still paneled their walls with faux 
wood paneling and white faux wood panel on the ceiling!! I wanted some 
opinions on whether making unbleached muslin garment bags with zippers 
would help not only to keep dust off the garments, but keep bugs off as 
well so long as there are no openings for them to get into. I wouldn't 
bag them and leave them unattended forever, I would still check them 
regularly and at that point, for any bug holes, etc. I keep dark blinds 
in the room and closed to protect them from light as well as keep the 
door closed to prevent access heat to enter the room, as it gets very 
warm upstairs. The room is already a few degrees cooler, being that it 
is on the north side of the house. My only other fear is humidity 
control, it gets very dry in winter and humid in summer. Are there any 
reliable humidifiers out there that actually work? I have a cheap $20 
one that operates in the front bedroom but according to my hydrometer, 
it makes little difference. I suppose that the comfortable location on 
the meter is deal moisture, not too high nor low. If anyone has any 
suggestions or opinions about this please let me know. Also, what is a 
good company to insure valuable items? My collection has been growing 
and now includes one or two pieces that were very costly and feel it 
may be best to get them insured soon. Talk soon:)

-----Original Message-----
From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 3:56 am
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vacuum 
bags.....

The early forms had problems with keeping a seal I have had better luck 
with
the new ones. The originals I keep for things that just need to be 
stored
but not flattened. I did have a problem opening the new "box" form 
after I
had sealed and vacuumed the air out. Definitely had a good seal as it
wouldn't open and I ended up ripping it. :P

-----Original Message-----
I have used the 1 st generation vaccuum bags with mixed success, I 
packed
away a large bag with sweaters in them ,all nice and flat, under my bed.
About sweater time rolling around ,I tried to remove said bag. 
Unhappily,
the seal failed along the way and my sweaters "expanded" .I had to have 
2
people jack up the foot of the bed so I could extradite them. All the 
while
I thought they were "safe" and sealed up they were open and gathering
dust,smells and moisture.
   The bags I bought were from the original designer, not a Pic n save 
knock
off, they had the "zip lock "bag trac along the top and I figured 
failed at
the very edges of the trac. Maybe a strip of duct tape might have 
aleveated
the problem,but they never mention that in the info-mercials.
  The very small sized bags seem to do better in not cutting loose the
seal.,maybe size is a factor.Or if you don't "smoosh" the all the way 
down
to the krinkley stage, the may work ok
  My experience on the matter,
   Melody


Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
  My 2 cebts worth:

I have used the Space Bags. They are great to keep stuff dry and
clean. Also reduces bulk, somewhat, because they suck the excess air
out.

Susan


On Feb 22, 2008, at 7:43 PM, Natalie wrote:

> I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags
> as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags
> for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen
> them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, >
> I hope that helps!
>
> Natalie
>
>
>
> scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
>> Hi, I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage
>> locker (climate controlled). >> I might take a bug or two with me.
>>> Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack
>> fabric for storage? I>>
>> Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside)
>>



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A question of height....
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:11:13 -0500
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On Sunday 24 February 2008, Melody Watts wrote:
> Hi All,
>    I don't know if this question has been asked in the past and answered,
> but I'd like to know, if not. Is there any definitive answer on how tall
> Elizabeth (the first) was? Are there any  "tailor's notes" on her physical 
> dimensions ?
>
>   I know her cousin was quite tall of a woman in her age, how did Lizzy
> measure up?

I recall that her effigy was measured at 5 foot 3 inches or something of the 
sort, but I don't remember the source of that information so I'll defer to 
anyone who does.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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I've seen several definitive answers on this (and other) lists, but I'm 
afraid that they were all different.  The one that stuck in my head best (I 
think a letter was quoted) was 5'7" with her cousin being "too tall" at 
5'9", but of course that means absolutely nothing, since a) I could be 
remembering wrong, and b) even if I'm remembering right, that doesn't mean 
that the answer was right.

A web search, by the way, turns up 5'3"-5'5" as the most common heights 
given, for whatever that's worth.  If she was 5'3" near the end of her life 
it wouldn't be odd for her to have been 5'5" at her tallest, given the 
shrinking effects of age/osteoporosis.

-E "Non-Answers-R-Us" House


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Subject: [h-cost] Archives Annoucement
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Archive Announcement

As the International Costumers' Guild Archivist, I would like to seek 
your help as well as inform you of its current status. We have posted 
a beginning inventory of Archive materials for your perusal. This is 
only a preliminary list. It reflects what I, and Bruce Mai as my 
assistant, have cataloged so far or are currently processing. There 
are many more that we have yet to examine.

We are always interested in adding materials to the Archives, whether 
it is old or new. If you have something to fill in our gaps, it would 
be very much appreciated. We have photo collections that are only 
partial records for particular events. Some video is old and not in 
good condition. If you have anything that will  help, please contact 
me (icg-archivist (at) costume.org) or Bruce (gallery-admin (at) costume.org).

Please keep in mind that materials not from conventions and 
masquerades are always welcome!

The address to view the catalogs is:

<http://www.costume.org/archive_cat_main.html>http://www.costume.org/archive_cat_main.html 
or go the ICG site, <http://www.costume.org>www.costume.org and click 
on the catalog link on the left side.

Don't hesitate to ask us any questions you may have.

Thank you all for your support.



Pierre Pettinger

ICG Archivist


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A question of height....
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 00:06:17 -0500
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On Monday 25 February 2008, Exstock wrote:
> I've seen several definitive answers on this (and other) lists, but I'm
> afraid that they were all different.  The one that stuck in my head best (I
> think a letter was quoted) was 5'7" with her cousin being "too tall" at
> 5'9", but of course that means absolutely nothing, since a) I could be
> remembering wrong, and b) even if I'm remembering right, that doesn't mean
> that the answer was right.

I remember that Antonia Fraser claims in her biography of Mary Queen of Scots 
that Mary (who I assumed was the "cousin" of Elizabeth referred to) was 
nearly 6 feet tall (5' 11', or something like that).  However, I don't 
remember what Fraser's alleged source was.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:37:44 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A question of height....
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Queen Bess had a discussion with James Melville, Mary Stuart's
ambassador, in 1564 basically grilling him with details all about her
rival. She asked if Mary were taller, to which Melville quickly replied
that she was. Bess replied, "Then she is too high. I myself am neither
too high nor too low." (First Elizabethan_Carolly Erickson, 218).

Mary Stuart was almost six feet tall. (Ibid., 200).

Arlys

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 23:01:03 -0600 "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com> writes:
> I've seen several definitive answers on this (and other) lists, but 
> I'm 
> afraid that they were all different.  The one that stuck in my head 
> best (I 
> think a letter was quoted) was 5'7" with her cousin being "too tall" 
> at 
> 5'9", but of course that means absolutely nothing, since a) I could 
> be 
> remembering wrong, and b) even if I'm remembering right, that 
> doesn't mean 
> that the answer was right.
> 
> A web search, by the way, turns up 5'3"-5'5" as the most common 
> heights 
> given, for whatever that's worth.  If she was 5'3" near the end of 
> her life 
> it wouldn't be odd for her to have been 5'5" at her tallest, given 
> the 
> shrinking effects of age/osteoporosis.
> 
> -E "Non-Answers-R-Us" House
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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It's not online, but I can e-mail you privately with the mesurement form  and 
the instructions I send to long distance customers, if it would be any  help.
 
 
 
In a message dated 25/02/2008 01:40:14 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hi,  

I'm searching for some information on English  names for body measurements. I 
mean the body measurements that are necessary  for pattern drafting. I need 
to translate instructions for taking body  measurements for my webpage to 
English and I'm not very sure of all the names,  I've seen many variations on how 
to call the different measurements on the  internet, but I'm sure that 
officially there aren't many versions (it's all  sure to be in some ISO norm, but if I 
could only find it).

The best I've found was on this webpage with pattern drafting  software:
http://www.leenas.com/English/Standard_measurements.html
but still,  there aren't all the measurements and I'd like to have something 
else to  compare.

So if you know of any good source on this,  either in English with 
descriptions, or some German-English translation, I'd  be very thankful for it:-)

Zuzana


 



   
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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:08:07 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
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I hate to say me too, but Bjarne, you are probably the most influential
person in my enjoyment of clothing of your chosen period. I've never been
interested in the 1750s-80s untilI saw your wonderful work. I hope you
aren't giving up on h-needlework too!

Thanks for all the joy you've brought so many of us.

LynnD


On 2/23/08, Rickard, Patty <RICKARPA@muc.edu> wrote:
>
> Bjarne - I will miss you and your marvelous creations.
>
> Patty
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Sat 2/23/2008 10:01 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
>
>
>
> Hi all,
> I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with my
> interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided to
> leave.
> Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will
> have manny interresting disgussions in the future.
> Take care.............
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] understanding paintings of Saints
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In a message dated 2/22/2008 12:23:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
claning@igc.org writes:

On Feb  22, 2008, at 5:27 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:

> There is a  very interesting book called _The Square Halo and other  
>  Mysteries of Western Art: images and the stories that inspired  
>  them_ by Sallie Fisher.


I'll second that endorsement. A delightful  book and very useful: it  
explains a _lot_ of cryptic scenes in  medieval paintings, and does so  
with a sense of  humor.



*********************
 
Hmmmmm.... I have to check this out. This is a little OT but...
 
Y'know one of my fave artists is Francisco de Zurbaran. He must have  painted 
every saint there was at the time [and some of the most bored and "I'm  over 
it" looking putti ever]. I mean... how many paintings of St Rufina are  there?
 
_http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/painting/religious-paint/christ-sain
t/rufina/zurbaran22.jpg_ 
(http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/painting/religious-paint/christ-saint/rufina/zurbaran22.jpg) 
 
Notice how the painting is almost a costume plate. And his daring use of  
dangerous color combinations. He's Spanish so the canvases reek of mystic  
symbolism. In the Saint's portraits there is always a symbol of their  
martyrdom...sometimes being carried on a silver tray by the saint, like St.  Agatha, who's 
breasts were cut off by her tormentors. Here she is with them on a  tray, like 
2 Jell-o molds!
 
_http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/1/index.html_ 
(http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/1/index.html) 
 
His more famous paintings are of St Margaret [further down the page of the  
last link]...talk about a costume plate!
And a moving rendering of St Serapion.
 
_http://artchive.com/artchive/z/zurbaran/zurbaran_serapion.jpg_ 
(http://artchive.com/artchive/z/zurbaran/zurbaran_serapion.jpg) 
 
He also does oddly compelling still-lifes.[still-lives?]
 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Yeah, with all the period/regional specific email lists, I find that I too =
may be signing out....
=20
Sg=
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On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:

> Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
>
>> We're going for just a general overview, designed to make people maybe 
>> think first before they say "I know they wore X, it's in all the pictures!" 
>> ... we plan to touch on pretty much everything Robin mentions--it will be a 
>> challenge to keep it down to an hour. 
>
> So what lucky group will get the benefit of this class, and when? It sounds 
> like a useful service. I hope once it's developed, you'll be able to re-use 
> it for other groups.
>
> --Robin

SCA, initially, at the end of March. And then it might be a paper article 
or a web article, we're not sure.

Jen/pixel/Margaret
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:25:01 -0600
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Thread-Index: Ach38xiXWqeKWcLVQEySytnfmt06tQAAZ+vw
References: <200802121901.m1CJ17os014992@net.indra.com><200802121628.05454.cathy@thyrsus.com><200802122201.m1CM13om032778@net.indra.com><200802121808.33128.cathy@thyrsus.com><Pine.LNX.4.61.0802201134360.4370@rocky.itasca.net><6C2A0530-54A1-475A-80CA-1345FCC63DD7@faucet.net><A84B1DF6-F7CF-4F69-B42B-C8AEA58ECA9D@igc.org><47BE26DB.7010807@netherton.net><Pine.LNX.4.61.0802212230590.27215@rocky.itasca.net><47BF0CCE.2090906@netherton.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.61.0802251143470.15947@rocky.itasca.net>
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Best overview in a fairly short form and has scale patterns to boot is
"The Tudor Tailor" This covers Tudor and Elizabethan eras.

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references


On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:

> Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
>
>> We're going for just a general overview, designed to make people=20
>> maybe think first before they say "I know they wore X, it's in all
the pictures!"
>> ... we plan to touch on pretty much everything Robin mentions--it=20
>> will be a challenge to keep it down to an hour.
>
> So what lucky group will get the benefit of this class, and when? It=20
> sounds like a useful service. I hope once it's developed, you'll be=20
> able to re-use it for other groups.
>
> --Robin

SCA, initially, at the end of March. And then it might be a paper
article or a web article, we're not sure.

Jen/pixel/Margaret
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 18:44:18 -0700
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Where do you find all the period/regional specific lists?

Sylvia

On Feb 25, 2008, at 10:53 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> Yeah, with all the period/regional specific email lists, I find that I 
> too may be signing out....
>
> Sg_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Understanding paintings of saints
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Status: RO

  =20
=20


I love St. Margaret's bag. It's uncannily like the "Greek shepherds' bags" =
which we all carried our books in when I was a student in the early 70s.

Kate
=20
 -----------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:36:00 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20
Subject: Re: [h-cost] understanding paintings of Saints
To: h-costume@indra.com=20
Message-ID: <cd8.24731f92.34f45680@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII"

=20
In a message dated 2/22/2008 12:23:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, =20
claning@igc.org writes:


Y'know one of my fave artists is Francisco de Zurbaran. He must have  =
painted=20
every saint there was at the time [and some of the most bored and "I'm  =
over=20
it" looking putti ever]. I mean... how many paintings of St Rufina are  =
there?
=20
_http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/painting/religious-paint/christ-s=
ain
t/rufina/zurbaran22.jpg_=20
(http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/painting/religious-paint/christ-s=
aint/rufina/zurbaran22.jpg)=20
=20
Notice how the painting is almost a costume plate. And his daring use of =
=20
dangerous color combinations. He's Spanish so the canvases reek of mystic =
=20
symbolism. In the Saint's portraits there is always a symbol of their =20
martyrdom...sometimes being carried on a silver tray by the saint, like =
St.  Agatha, who's=20
breasts were cut off by her tormentors. Here she is with them on a  tray, =
like=20
2 Jell-o molds!
=20
_http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/1/index.html_=20
(http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/1/index.html)=20
=20
His more famous paintings are of St Margaret [further down the page of the =
=20
last link]...talk about a costume plate!
And a moving rendering of St Serapion.
=20
_http://artchive.com/artchive/z/zurbaran/zurbaran_serapion.jpg_=20
(http://artchive.com/artchive/z/zurbaran/zurbaran_serapion.jpg)=20
=20
He also does oddly compelling still-lifes.[still-lives?]
=20



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.     =
=20
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-d=
uffy/
2050827?NCID=3Daolcmp00300000002598)


------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:53:06 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <BAY133-W25F0E17F0C47391C54C02AD2180@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1"

Yeah, with all the period/regional specific email lists, I find that I too =
may be signing out....
=20
Sg

------------------------------

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h-costume@mail.indra.com=20
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=20


End of h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 76
****************************************

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Status: RO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
<< I love St. Margaret's bag. It's uncannily like the "Greek shepherds' 
bags" which we all carried our books in when I was a student in the early 
70s. >>


It's also very similar to the mochilas carried in many parts of South 
America.  Not too surprising there, though, considering how heavy an 
influence Spain had in the 17thC!

If there were several guns stuffed in it and an AK-47 slung over the other 
shoulder, I'd feel as if I were having a flashback to the Guajira. For that 
matter, if she were wearing a jacket and a bowler hat, she'd be the spitting 
image of 50 zillion Bolivian women.

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell - other email lists
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 05:44:37 -0700
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Status: RO

Geez, Lynn wrote me offline and reminded me of the other reason one is on t=
hese lists - to help others.  (Embarrassed Smiley)
=20
I guess I'll be here for awhile.  As to Sylivia's question:  The other list=
s that come to mind are mostly on Yahoo - Yahoo has a whole slew of them.  =
If you are not familiar with Yahoo, email me offline for some tips on findi=
ng and deciding whether to join a group.
=20
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheRenaissanceTailor/
=20
There is another group of them - someone else will be able to direct you sp=
ecifically because I can't find them myself - they are hosted by an email "=
server" that is something like MEDCO.
=20
Sg



> From: sylvia@ntw.net> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT a farewell.> Date: Mon, 25=
 Feb 2008 18:44:18 -0700> To: h-costume@indra.com> CC: > > Where do you fin=
d all the period/regional specific lists?> > Sylvia> > On Feb 25, 2008, at =
10:53 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:> > > Yeah, with all the period/regional sp=
ecific email lists, I find that I > > too may be signing out....> >> > Sg__=
_____________________________________________> > h-costume mailing list> > =
h-costume@mail.indra.com> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costum=
e> >> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing =
list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-co=
stume=
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 08:20:51 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Can anyone recommend other email lists for Victorian era costuming?  I
plan to stay with H-costume, though interest waxes and wanes,
interesting items are posted often enough even if its not always my
area of interest.  The list sure has changed over the years.

I came across this site:

http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/content/view/62/103/

Has anyone used it, any opinions?  I doubt I want to pay $10 per month
for a subscription.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 08:41:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell - other email lists
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


     I belong to some period-specific lists, and I plan to stay on this
one as well.

     Although it covers time periods and places that I'm not doing,
h-Costume keeps me in touch with a larger group of people who are
like-minded.  Research, finding fabrics, challenges in fit and
construction are common to any era of costume.  Learning about eras
on either side of "my" time period is useful, and I'm just plain
curious about all eras.

     On this list, I can read about the accomplishments of others  things
I would miss if I stuck to lists of one particular time period.

     Thank you everyone for being here!
     -Carol


> Geez, Lynn wrote me offline and reminded me of the other reason one is on
> these lists - to help others.  (Embarrassed Smiley)

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      I belong to some period-specific lists, and I plan to stay on this
> one as well.
>
>      Although it covers time periods and places that I'm not doing,
> h-Costume keeps me in touch with a larger group of people who are
> like-minded.  

I've joined a number of period specific lists and find I'm not getting 
much out of them. Traffic is light and it can be weeks between posts, 
and the general level of knowledge is pretty low. I know all groups 
aren't like that ( I hope!) but the ones I joined are. I much prefer 
H-Cost with the rich variety of discussion and the cross pollination of 
topics. I only recreate a few historic eras but I enjoy reading about 
the others.



Dawn

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In a message dated 2/26/2008 11:25:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

I only  recreate a few historic eras but I enjoy reading about 
the  others.



***************
Plus...it's a "community", y'know. Kinda like an e-cocktail party...where  
the hostess keeps the guests more or less on topic.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
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> AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> > Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century,
> > and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured.

A good use for bad costume books?   I like to use a pile of them as a
monitor stand.  Kohler's just too small. Into the bin!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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On Tuesday 26 February 2008, Dawn wrote:

> I've joined a number of period specific lists and find I'm not getting
> much out of them. Traffic is light and it can be weeks between posts,
> and the general level of knowledge is pretty low. I know all groups
> aren't like that ( I hope!) but the ones I joined are. I much prefer
> H-Cost with the rich variety of discussion and the cross pollination of
> topics. I only recreate a few historic eras but I enjoy reading about
> the others.
>
That's pretty much my experience as well.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.

 

Beth Chamberlain

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] yourwardrobeunlockd was other email groups
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http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ is by far one of the best subscriptions I
have ever paid for short of my Victoria magazine (which btw is back!!).

I downloaded one article and was amazed at the knowledge I got, from just
one article!!

It is a pretty serious magazine for really serious costumers and tailors.
She is always seeking out folks to interview and add articles on their
expertise to it. She has a personal blog, http://harmanhay.livejournal.com/,

and a blog for the magazine,
http://syndicated.livejournal.com/wardrob_unlockd, 
that you can join to read about what is going on before you get a
subscription.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 7:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] other email groups

Can anyone recommend other email lists for Victorian era costuming?  I
plan to stay with H-costume, though interest waxes and wanes,
interesting items are posted often enough even if its not always my
area of interest.  The list sure has changed over the years.

I came across this site:

http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/content/view/62/103/

Has anyone used it, any opinions?  I doubt I want to pay $10 per month
for a subscription.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
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1880s in Paris
Worth, Pingat, and Laferriere was labeling then

-----Original Message-----
Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.



Beth Chamberlain

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
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Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't 
seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to 
decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who 
has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious costumer, 
or professional. Moreso, I am very much driven to enhance my education 
and skills as a costumer but just can't seem to learn what steps to 
take to increase my level! I know of the people who have specific 
period correct skills such as needlework, etc and those who reguarly 
attend specific classes, but find most of the options I have for 
reaching those resources of knowlege in person are separate from me by 
great divides, distance and finances especially. It is with hope that 
in joining this list, and now with keen interest in the "wardrobe" 
subscription that was mentioned in earlier posts today that being in 
communication with such groups is a good start, though it isn't certain 
how effective joining any amount of lists will be in turning my 
somewhat sedentary costuming hobby into something very sucessful and 
active. What does it take? How many hours about do those of you who are 
consider yourselves serious put into your work. Does using reproduced 
original patterns, altered modern period patterns, and self drafted 
patterns to construct a garment in period with period styling of 
fabrics, trims, etc. that is correct for fit, style, etc, count in 
calling oneself a costumer? When I have the chance, I will post photos 
of the work I have done and if it wouldn't be an inconvenience, I would 
greatly appreciate any working feedback on what I have done thus far, 
possibly on improvements or suggestions on what to try additionally. At 
this point, resources limited, I am not incredibly focused on having 
exactly authentic fabrics or trims, but am generally using the best I 
can find that still contains a rather period looking feel. Meaning, the 
material could be modern from Joann's and maybe not in material used in 
1860 per se or possibly even an authentic colour, but is period looking 
and nothing obviously out of time frame. Luckily, despite many 
unsucessful google searches for period fabrics or reproduction fabrics, 
today I stumbled onto a website for a small supply store that can only 
be one that someone had told me about at a Civil War ball near 
Gettysburg last year. I was searching for millinery wire and in 
spotting the phone number curiously looked for the address as it was a 
recognizable area code. They sell what I believe to be civil war era 
fabrics for reenactors and other notions, I can't wait to trek out that 
way and visit this summer. It is the other elements of costuming that 
confuse me, such as where to learn what exact dyes were being used in 
each era, aside from what colours were represented in current fashion 
plates and the variations of skirt lengths and widths from year to 
year. Surely at this point in reading the many facets of direction I am 
in need of I seem like too much inexperience to be helped with one 
answer but any advice would help. thank you so much for your time, 
again:)
Justine.


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
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At 01:28 27/02/2008, you wrote:
>Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
>in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
>House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
>something earlier.


I have a Worth bodice of around 1860 (ish) which has a label in it, 
if that is any help? I will be doing a "show and tell" with it 
shortly if you want me to scan it and send it off list?

Suzi

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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 09:41:30 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
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I have a Pingat evening bodice, 1860s, with a waist tape label.

Katy

On Wed, Feb 27, 2008 at 2:48 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 01:28 27/02/2008, you wrote:
>  >Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
>  >in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
>  >House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
>  >something earlier.
>
>
>  I have a Worth bodice of around 1860 (ish) which has a label in it,
>  if that is any help? I will be doing a "show and tell" with it
>  shortly if you want me to scan it and send it off list?
>
>  Suzi
>
>
>
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 09:55:27 -0500
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Justine,

I wouldn't worry so much about labels.  All of us have different  
skill sets, and we all aim to improve over time.  Some of us are  
lucky enough to make our living doing this, but there are many others  
who are quite serious and highly skilled but who are not technically  
professionals.

You've already started taking the right steps to improve your  
knowledge and skills.  You've gotten some good tips on research, so  
that's one thing you can do.  If you're interested in the mid-19th  
century, look online first at some of the fashion plates from Godey's  
Lady's Book and some of the others from that era.  Examples can be  
found at
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/godeytitle.html
http://www.iath.virginia.edu/utc/sentimnt/gallgodyf.html
http://www.history.rochester.edu/godeys/toc-m.htm

There are plenty of other places online where you can find images  
from the 19th century
http://www.costumegallery.com/ (some content requires subscription)
http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Victorian.html
http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/index.html
http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/index.shtml

and sites that have images of extant garments:
http://www.demodecouture.com/realvict/
http://www.elegantvintage.com/
http://www.meg-andrews.com/
http://www.vintagetextile.com/index.html
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau.asp
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/ 
19.html

These will give you more information on styles, details,  
construction, and materials.  The closer you can get to those, the  
better your costumes will be.  In fact, they'll start looking like  
historic clothing rather than costumes.  Try choosing a specific year  
or two and researching the clothing of that time.  Then narrow it  
down to a country and then a region, because there were certainly  
regional differences, even within countries.  For example, people in  
New York City in 1850 were wearing very different clothing than those  
in rural Kansas in the same year.  Then focus on a specific type of  
garment--evening gowns or working dresses or maternity dresses.  As  
you narrow your research, you'll begin to see the details of cut,  
color, fabric, style, etc. much more clearly.

Once you're ready to start on a new project, there are some places  
online selling fabrics and other materials for 19th-century  
reproductions, including
http://www.corsetmaking.com/
http://www.grannd.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? 
Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=GS&Category_Code=CC
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/
http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/index.php
http://www.periodfabric.com/
http://www.colonialcrafts.com/category/Reproduction_Fabric/c41

There are of course many purveyors of reproduction patterns out there  
of varying qualities.  Reviews of some of them can be found at
http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/

If you have strong patterning skills, you can use one of the books  
that reproduce 19th-century patterns, like those sold at R.L. Shep  
http://www.rlshep.com/

As for dyes, the mid-19th century was an exciting time.  I can't  
recommend any specific resources, but you might try some histories of  
textiles to start and see what their sources are for this particular  
period.

I've taken most of the links above from my online bookmark site at  
http://del.icio.us/melisant which has many many other fun links.   
Feel free to browse.

Melanie Schuessler
(also a contributor to Your Wardrobe Unlock'd)
>

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
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ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:
> I am still having trouble trying to decypher the difference between an 
> amateur costumer (myself, one who has a general knowledge of a topic) 
> and one who is a serious costumer, or professional. 

A professional costumer is one who gets paid for her services and who 
lists such income on her tax forms at the end of the year. Professionals 
may also have published costume research in a professional or academic 
journal. I won't say it's people who can make a living at costuming, 
because very few can.

An amateur is someone who does it because they love it and it's fun, not 
because it is a job or there is some kind of professional recognition 
involved. (I'm not saying professionals don't love what they do)  Most 
of the people you will meet at recreation events, renaissance faires, 
and science fiction conventions are going to be amateurs, regardless of 
the level of sewing expertise they have.

Justine, can you do us a favor and use paragraph breaks when you write. 
It will make your posts so much easier to read.


Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Your Wardrobe Unlock'd (was: other email groups)
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> I came across this site:
> 
> http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/content/view/62/103/
> 
> Has anyone used it, any opinions?  I doubt I want to pay $10 per month
> for a subscription.

I've enjoyed all three issues so far - each one has had at least something 
to make me think about. I thought the article on how to take your 
costuming to the next level was particularly thought inspiring, and I've 
heard nice things about the corset pattern drafting tutorial - which I 
haven't tried to use, being much fonder of draping then flat patterning as 
a technique. Currently I rate it at about the same level as _Threads_ - 
but since my sewing is almost entirely costuming, it's more on-target for 
me then much of _Threads_ is. I was concerned about the price too, but so 
far, I haven't regretted it, and unlike regular magazines you can opt out 
at any time. Of course, I may be biased - I'm being profiled in this 
month's issue ;-)

        -sunny

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> Of course, I may be biased - I'm being profiled in this 
> month's issue ;-)

Minor correction, the month hasn't changed yet; I'm being profiled in 
_next_ month's issue. Bjarne was profiled this month :-)
        -sunny

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
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Status: RO

At 05:28 PM 2/26/2008, you wrote:
>Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
>in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
>House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
>something earlier.
>
>
>
>Beth Chamberlain

I have the book "Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their 
Clothes 1770-1870" by Jane Tozer & Sarah Levitt.  On pages 111-112 
there are pictures of labels in shoes and hats from the late 18th 
century.  On page 116 there is an illustration of a label in a man's 
stock, c. 1840.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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	<OFFDD53495.630F1D8D-ON852573FC.005F9CF0-852573FC.006039E6@KP.ORG>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:03:52 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Uniquely You form for sale
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I know that we have had the discussion of dress forms on this list many
times, and wanted to inform that I have put up a UY form on ebay for sale
(Item Id: 110228560792) It is a size Medium. Why am I getting rid of it?
Well, it's 25 lbs too big :) and while UY forms squish, they don't squish
*that* much!
 
*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
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Subject: [h-cost] THE SERIOUS COSTUMER
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Justine,
My dear you are on the right track.
I have a question for you. What and why are you costuming?
 To earn a living; to learn a skill and gain knowledge;to fulfill artistic urges;to achieve recognition?, etc.
 Do you want to teach; to draft patterns; to sew; to costume for competitions; for plays; for re-enactments; for yourself, etc.?
 Find your dimensions. Find where you want to work.
 I do plays. Now after thirty seven years, mostly on small stage in community theatre. Previously I worked small stages in colleges and universities and parks and recreation departments of several cities in Los Angeles. Two years I did the only work for a high school ever - I costumed Miss Drill Team USA competition entries. The first year was a US second place. The next year was a US first and an international second. That was for the drill team of which my work was only a part.
 I've made very little money often having to carry a second job between contracts.
 I didn't want to teach so never applied. I research, in a shallow way (there is not a lot time for it in the short prep period)all my plays.
 I've a MFA, UCLA and six respected awards. Re-enactors don't work the way I do, that is "quick and dirty." There are many different facets to being a costume designer. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Hello and thank you for such wonderful replies to last nights' posting 
they were very helpful, structural, ideas to relfect on and things to 
look into. I cannot wait for some extra time to explore the links you 
sent to me Melanie. Some of them I recognize and have saved in my 
favourites but a good many look new to me:)

In terms of what interests me most about costuming, it is very hard to 
say and off the top of my head many of the possible directions one may 
take with such an artform are equally appealing to me in that knowing 
which one to concentrate on most is difficult. I know it is hard to 
make steady, let alone good money using costuming as the basis for a 
career and if I could that would be wonderful.

The elements I have found to be most rewarding or invigorating thus far 
have been in the actual styling of a garment's materials, trims, etc 
and developing a design. I enjoy that part moreso than the sewing since 
sewing the project is often tedious and time consuming and my skills 
not always good and it would be more fun in creating a new piece if I 
could complete it before I get tired of seeing it.

I love anything about the Victorian era in way in which I want to jump 
through time and live that life and the fashion is an exciting part of 
it. Wearing of the garments is not just for special events or 
reenacting for me, it is somewhat of my lifestyle at this point and 
though it's hard to pull off a full bustle to go to the food store, 
there are ways to mix and match modern and old pieces to create an 
ensemble that carries the essence of old fashion.

I collect period peices no matter what condition and enjoy the research 
alot. I attended Moore College of Art for two years in the fashion 
program and my sparked interest in wearing Victorian  and Edwardian 
clothing coinsided with my first year in the majour, a school costume 
collection included. I started reconsidering my interest in joining the 
glamorous world of fashion design when it turned out to be fun learning 
how to go to stores and steal ideas from other designers to produce 
marketable lines of clothing that other people will want to wear and 
the notion of working for a large clothing label, probaly doing work 
that is somewhat related to the actual design of the clothing really 
didn't seem to me like a good career to spend so much money getting 
into so I left and have been spending the last three years fine tuning 
what exactly I would like to do.

Lately I have become more connected with local historic sites and 
museum as well as organizations in hopes that what I know about the era 
may be put to some good use and I can share my knoweldge with the 
public rather than have it build up in my head and just look pretty 
around my house and never be used. Being a tour guide of sorts or 
living history actress would really work well for me and my goal now is 
to get back into school aand get a degree in art education. Sometimes 
you have make choices and I prefer to get a good steady job as soon as 
possible than wait many years and spend so much more money to try and 
get into a master's program to study costume conservation, which has 
become the ideal career path unceratin sucess.

I am here writing to all of you, because there are some things I do 
well yet there are so many technical aspects to costuming I have not 
developed and to be an accurate costumer who hopes to educate other 
people reliably, it is getting those specific details to the clothing 
like colours, materials, etc (as mentioned in my post) and getting them 
right, that seems so just to be so out of reach to me.

Do I like sewing? Yes I  think so, but only when the project is going 
well. Maybe finding better ways to sew, or the correct ways in which to 
sew the styles of clothing I am working on would be helpful in making 
them look less homemade. Obviously there were specific techniques as 
available in alot of books that are not in my collection yet for 
stitching and assembling different parts of a garment that I have sewn 
in whatever way I could come up with just to make it work. In studying 
original peices, nearly all of what i have seen is far from perfect in 
comparison to our standards for modern commercially made clothing, I 
imagine because so many peices were made by local tailors or 
seamstresses, or at home.

Through studying them I have learned some great things, like how to 
attach hooks and eyes much faster without having to keep cutting and 
knotting the thread by using a long continuous stitch. It would be 
wonderful to see the differences in the clothing I have and with 
couture pieces by Worth to see how they did such things.

Again, I appreciate the information that was passed along and intend to 
look into it later. I am off to sleep because in about 13 hours I hope 
to visit the museum at FIT for the first time and see what they have. 
Have any of you heard about the Perelman center in Philadelphia, the 
newest addition to the Philadelphia Musuem of Art? It is a separate 
building behind the museum which includes a fashion wing. I was very 
disappointed after waiting so many years for an increased display since 
the art museum only ever had a collection of maybe 8 gowns that never 
seemed to change, dating from the 1850s and 1860s, and the new 
collection is very small. They tried to, with limited space, display as 
many various examples of fashion history as possible and what they have 
is very good quality but many important examples were missing when I 
was there for the free grand opening admission.

Take care:)
Justine



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ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:
> Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't 
> seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to 
> decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who 
> has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious costumer, 
> or professional.

A professional costumer is someone who loves costuming so much they're 
willing to work for far less money than they're worth so they don't have 
to do something else. It often involves a lot of production grunt-work 
making higher-margin dull and functional items so one can afford the 
time spent on fancy artistic projects.

An amateur costumer is anyone who does it for the fun and the art, 
regardless of skill level, without looking for financial compensation. 
Amateurs also can choose to only do the fun projects.

Frankly, I find the drain on my finances from paying for my own fabric 
to be far more acceptable than the inability to pay the rent that too 
often comes with an artistic profession. Besides, I actually like my 
well-paying tech job.

andy

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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 12:36:09 +0000
From: Hilary Davidson <h.davidson@qmul.ac.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
References: <200802280004.m1S044YM021525@net.indra.com>
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The earliest one I know of, remarkable for its rarity, is a man's =20
tartan worsted cloak c 1828-1830 with a label stating it's made by =20
John Eyre of New Bond Street, London.

Otherwise, Suzi is on the right track, they appear more and more from =20
the 1860s. I don't know if you can count the imprints of manufacturers =20
such as Thomsons on their crinolines as dressmakers/tailors. There are =20
labels in hats from the 1830s at least, shoes even earlier. By the =20
1880s it's quite common in produced clothing. I could put you in touch =20
with someone who's researching this for a thesis if it would be helpful.

cheers, Hilary

Subject: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
   3.3.1  unnamed  [text/plain]  0.26 KB

Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.



Beth Chamberlain


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From: Hilary Davidson <h.davidson@qmul.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing - resending
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Sorry all, the top bit of the post fell off. It was meant to read:

The earliest, rare example I know of is a man's worsted tartan cape  
dated 1828-30, with a label proclaiming it to be made by John Eyre of  
New Bond Street, London. Otherwise, Suzi is on the right track, they  
appear more and more from
the 1860s. I don't know if you can count the imprints of manufacturers
such as Thomsons on their crinolines as dressmakers/tailors. There are
labels in hats from the 1830s at least, shoes even earlier. By the
1880s it's quite common in produced clothing. I could put you in touch
with someone who's researching this for a thesis if it would be helpful.

cheers, Hilary


Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting  
labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century.  
I know
House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.



Beth Chamberlain


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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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I've sending this in behalf of a friend who is looking for websites, 
books or other reseruces as reference for 18th and 19th century 
clothing. The paragraph below is a cut and paste from her email (with 
permission):

"The book I am editing is set in late 1700's-early 1800's Scotland. The 
second book is early 1800's, set in the Caribbean islands (with English 
and French, and island people) as well as London and Scotland, perhaps 
Paris.  Anything you send on costumes will be tucked away and used. 
It's so important to get these details right, so having resources I can 
trust is huge."

If you have any suggestions of where she can look, please let me know, 
or you can email me off-list if you prefer.

Thanks in advance,

Melissa
goslomo at gmail dot com

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> Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
> in their goods?

TO BE PICKY, it goes way, way back to the idea of tradesmen or craftsmen 
leaving thier mark in or on thier work (remember the joke about the Nike flash 
on the armour in A Knight's Tale?).

It initially involved a notch, a hammered mark (in leather, for instance), a 
particular shaped stitch or letter stitched in to clothing to define the maker.

I have no hard evidence as to when these vanity marks became more formal such 
as manufacturers' tags but vaguely recall reading early-to-mid-19th century as 
when it came about, in line with factory production, mail order catalogues, and 
so on.

I hope this helps, if not, you can print it to line your cocky's cage,

-C.


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <47C72A41.1030209@where.else.net.nz>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 17:03:37 -0800
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I'm assuming you know about the ban on tartan and kilts after 1745. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melissa B. Muckart
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

I've sending this in behalf of a friend who is looking for websites, books
or other reseruces as reference for 18th and 19th century clothing. The
paragraph below is a cut and paste from her email (with
permission):

"The book I am editing is set in late 1700's-early 1800's Scotland. The
second book is early 1800's, set in the Caribbean islands (with English and
French, and island people) as well as London and Scotland, perhaps Paris.
Anything you send on costumes will be tucked away and used. 
It's so important to get these details right, so having resources I can
trust is huge."

If you have any suggestions of where she can look, please let me know, or
you can email me off-list if you prefer.

Thanks in advance,

Melissa
goslomo at gmail dot com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 17:08:49 -0800
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For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

Hi all,
I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with my
interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided to
leave.
Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will have
manny interresting disgussions in the future. 
Take care.............

Bjarne
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Andrew Trembley wrote:
> ladybeanofbunny1@aol.com wrote:
>> Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't 
>> seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to 
>> decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who 
>> has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious 
>> costumer, or professional.
>
> A professional costumer is someone who loves costuming so much they're 
> willing to work for far less money than they're worth so they don't 
> have to do something else. It often involves a lot of production 
> grunt-work making higher-margin dull and functional items so one can 
> afford the time spent on fancy artistic projects.
>
> An amateur costumer is anyone who does it for the fun and the art, 
> regardless of skill level, without looking for financial compensation. 
> Amateurs also can choose to only do the fun projects. 

I don't think the term "professional costumer" and "serious costumer" 
are synonymous, and neither of them are synonymous with "costume 
scholar" --although all three can and do overlap.

I know "professionals" who, frankly, are not nearly as talented as some 
amateurs I know.  I know professionals whose focus is outside the 
serious study of historical clothing and who are thus not costume 
scholars.  I know amateurs who are costume scholars, as well as a few 
who make some money off of costuming but not anything approaching a real 
salary.  Plenty of these are "serious" - but they're not professionals.

I also know costume scholars who are not in any real sense of the word 
costumers.  They study historic clothing and its aspects (textiles, 
etc.) but do not make costumes.

And I think the lines between all of these are not clear.  They're more 
like three intersecting circles describing one's involvement in costume 
and costume research.

I think we need to be careful about terminology.  Amateur has 
unfortunately lost most of its original, lovely meaning and is sometimes 
misinterpreted as "unknowledgeable, second-rate, slapdash, etc."   The 
academic world has now evolved the term "independent scholar", which is 
no longer quite the pejorative it once was.

Susan

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I think he has already left.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/

-----Original Message-----
For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 



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From: "Christine Shamblin" <nini1961@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
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I need some help in determining what color is being referred to when the
term "bottle green" was used in the early 19th century.

Free online Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bottle+green)
calls it " A dark to moderate or greyish green", and Wiktionary (
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bottle_green) says "a dark
green<http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/green>colour, like that of some
wine
bottles <http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/wine_bottle>." and gives a color
swatch.  I don't really trust a color swatch on a computer monitor, however.

I think I need a physical swatch. Can someone in the know point me to a
paint chip (e.g. Behr paint color #1234), or a DMC embroidery floss or
Madiera thread color number, or some such thing?  Or would someone who has
some bottle green fabric be willing to send me a small snippet?

Thanks.

Christine Shamblin

-- 
"I'm a Material Girl...want to see my fabric collection?"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
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As dye formulas varied, I don't think you will find one "definitive" bottle  
green.  But I'll check my Pantone book tomorrow to see if it has anything  
that I would think of as bottle green--which is dark and probably slightly  
grayed.
 
Ann Wass



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(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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