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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bottle green
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I agree that because dye processes on each type of fabric varies, it 
would be hard to find one exact example of what "bottle green" is 
precisely, especially since the dyes and materials used in the early 
19th century were different from what is readily available today but 
don't quote me on that as I do not know for sure. It is a good guess, 
however, that in calling it bottle green, it most likely did closely 
resemble the green glass that bottles were made with at that time, and 
those are probably more easily found to compare.
Cobalt glass was gorgeous and it is makes me wonder whether or not the 
word was used as well in dye applications.
This is a very old town, the third I believe in America to become a 
borough, and because we are located on the river, often times during 
low tide if you rummage through the stones on the bank you can find 
renmant shards of cobalt glass and other types of glasses. Sometimes 
you can find complete bottle necks or bottoms with the maker 
information on it and it would be interesting to research such 
information and try to track the original product. Particularly, 
remnants of old pottery and flatware turn up less often but are the 
most interesting to study, as people in those days did not have trash 
collection and therefore used the river as a place to quickly discard 
their rubbish.
Hope you find out more about the colour and am curious to know more 
also. Take care:)
Justine.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 01:51:43 -0800
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Thank you. I was talking to a friend and tried to show her his costumes and
realized I'd deleted it somehow along the way.
Sharon C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 10:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

I think he has already left.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/

-----Original Message-----
For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 02:01:11 -0800
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My husband had to make a coat for his character, Mr. Brownlow, from "Oliver
Twist". In the book it describes him as wearing a bottle green coat, so we
went looking for material of that color. We found what we thought was the
perfect color, a dark, but still bright green, but at over $150 a yard, we
decided to go for something slightly different. The color we ended up with
was brighter, but under the lights (ambers, mostly) it's OK. When did
aniline dyes become widespread? OT was set in the 1840's, so bottle green
could/would have been duller than we're used to today, correct?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Christine Shamblin
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 2:29 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?

I need some help in determining what color is being referred to when the
term "bottle green" was used in the early 19th century.

Free online Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bottle+green)
calls it " A dark to moderate or greyish green", and Wiktionary (
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bottle_green) says "a dark
green<http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/green>colour, like that of some wine
bottles <http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/wine_bottle>." and gives a color
swatch.  I don't really trust a color swatch on a computer monitor, however.

I think I need a physical swatch. Can someone in the know point me to a
paint chip (e.g. Behr paint color #1234), or a DMC embroidery floss or
Madiera thread color number, or some such thing?  Or would someone who has
some bottle green fabric be willing to send me a small snippet?

Thanks.

Christine Shamblin

--
"I'm a Material Girl...want to see my fabric collection?"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
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In a message dated 3/1/2008 5:01:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

When  did
aniline dyes become widespread? OT was set in the 1840's, so bottle  green
could/would have been duller than we're used to today,  correct?



The first aniline dye, mauve, was discovered in 1856.  It was a few  years 
before aniline greens hit the market.  Before that, dyeing green was  almost 
always at least a two-step process--dyeing with indigo blue and then  overdyeing 
with a yellow (or vice versa).  Since indigo is a vat dye, one  can't just mix 
blue and yellow in a dye bath to get green.  There was one  natural green, 
lo-kao, imported from China by the mid-19th century, but it is a  very vibrant 
bright green, not at all what one would use for men's wear.   It was a novelty 
and mostly used to dye silk for women's dresses.
 
Ann Wass



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bottle-green
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I've always thought of "Bottle green" as being somewhere between your 
"typical" green glass of the American colonial/ revolutionary period... 
and what those nasty flies have on them.  So of course I had to look and 
wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn says it is "dark to moderate or greyish 
green"

The fly?  There's a picture at 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_bottle_fly  I wonder if they were 
thinking of the color, or the combination of green and brown's overall 
look... or if it came from something else entirely.

-Liz

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From: Joseph Stevens <MaisondeHadley@aol.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
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And let's not forget about Scheele's Green and Emerald Green--Wikipedia 
lists them at 1775 and 1814 respectively.  Neither one would have been 
very pleasant to encounter due to the arsenic content. 

Joseph Stevens

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> The first aniline dye, mauve, was discovered in 1856.  It was a few  years 
> before aniline greens hit the market.  Before that, dyeing green was  almost 
> always at least a two-step process--dyeing with indigo blue and then  overdyeing 
> with a yellow (or vice versa).  Since indigo is a vat dye, one  can't just mix 
> blue and yellow in a dye bath to get green.  There was one  natural green, 
> lo-kao, imported from China by the mid-19th century, but it is a  very vibrant 
> bright green, not at all what one would use for men's wear.   It was a novelty 
> and mostly used to dye silk for women's dresses.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  1 17:17:27 2008
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If it's any help, the bottle green I wore as part of my school uniform was  
something like Pearsall's no 15 Apple Green thread.
 
I'd describe it as a very dark green - probably a shade or two lighter than  
a rifle green, and in fact, very like the green of a wine bottle that's not 
held  up to the light.
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 01/03/2008 19:00:49 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


I  need some help in determining what color is being referred to when the
term  "bottle green" was used in the early 19th century.

Free online  Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bottle+green)
calls it " A  dark to moderate or greyish green", and Wiktionary  (
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bottle_green) says "a  dark
green<http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/green>colour, like that of  some
wine
bottles <http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/wine_bottle>."  and gives a color
swatch.  I don't really trust a color swatch on a  computer monitor, however.

I think I need a physical swatch. Can  someone in the know point me to a
paint chip (e.g. Behr paint color #1234),  or a DMC embroidery floss or
Madiera thread color number, or some such  thing?  Or would someone who has
some bottle green fabric be willing  to send me a small snippet?

Thanks.

Christine  Shamblin


 



   
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming Old West Event
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Hello!

I know that most of you tend to be interested in less modern periods, but 
there are a slowly growing number of Old West Reenactors who are getting serious 
about getting things right. This event has been going on for years and is a 
fun time.

http://www.riverjunction.com/Jubilee/JubileeMain.html

And in case you are wondering, I and CC28 have nothing to do with the event. 
I just like going to it.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
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In a message dated 3/1/2008 3:26:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
MaisondeHadley@aol.com writes:

And  let's not forget about Scheele's Green and Emerald Green--Wikipedia 
lists  them at 1775 and 1814 respectively.  Neither one would have been 
very  pleasant to encounter due to the arsenic content. 



Technically those are pigments, not dyes, but they were eventually used to  
color garments--you are correct.  However, I think they were used to paint  
walls and color wallpapers before they were used to color garments.   (Pigments 
require a binder to adhere to fabric, rather than being absorbed into  the 
fabric--probably one reason whey the arsenical greens were the basis of  horror 
stories about women wearing garments colored witht them.)
 
Ann Wass



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 11:52:12 -0500
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> A professional costumer is one who gets paid for her services and who 
> lists such income on her tax forms at the end of the year.

And some of the professional costumers know less than we do about historical 
costumes. It all depends what they specialize in. Some who call themselves 
amateurs will be period to the last tiny stitch, and some who call 
themselves professionals will sell you a T-tunic of knit material with inset 
sleeves. Of course, the opposite is also true!

In other words... don't worry too much about the categorizations... 

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Hi gang,

It's a little early to be promoting this, I suppose,
but I thought some of you would like to know that
finally I've been nudged sufficiently and have the
resources at last to Just Do It: self-publish the
Compendium of Common Knowledge, 1558-1603, otherwise
available as http://elizabethan.org/compendium --yes,
ISBN
and index and everything. 

I've even hired a professional book designer(someone
whose work I know), so it will be properly typeset and
actually look like a real book, as well as be one. It
should be ready sometime this summer as a trade
paperback via Print On Demand (printer still TBD).
That means you'll order it online and they'll make you
a proper bound copy and send it to you.  Can't say
what the price will be yet, of course, but I'll keep
it as reasonable as possible. After all, we're giving
it away online every day. :-)

Not a lot of costume content, I know, but hey, all
those Elizabethans need some context! More news as it
becomes available,

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Compendium going to print
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 16:43:35 -0800
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Oooooo! I want one! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Compendium going to print

Hi gang,

It's a little early to be promoting this, I suppose, but I thought some of
you would like to know that finally I've been nudged sufficiently and have
the resources at last to Just Do It: self-publish the Compendium of Common
Knowledge, 1558-1603, otherwise available as
http://elizabethan.org/compendium --yes, ISBN and index and everything. 

I've even hired a professional book designer(someone whose work I know), so
it will be properly typeset and actually look like a real book, as well as
be one. It should be ready sometime this summer as a trade paperback via
Print On Demand (printer still TBD).
That means you'll order it online and they'll make you a proper bound copy
and send it to you.  Can't say what the price will be yet, of course, but
I'll keep it as reasonable as possible. After all, we're giving it away
online every day. :-)

Not a lot of costume content, I know, but hey, all those Elizabethans need
some context! More news as it becomes available,

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The village was
burning when we got here.

Anon.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@theoldforest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] need Regency help
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This was posted to the F-costume list. If someone could help her, please 
write to her direct (address is listed) since she's not a member of 
h-costume. Thanks! - Judy Mitchell



In a message dated 3/2/2008 6:42:52 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jika_songe@hotmail.com writes:

Hello,

My name is Jeanne, and I am a senior high school  student at Seoul 
Foreign School in South Korea. I am enrolled in a theatre  arts class, 
and we are curently working on a project called the research 
commission, in which we have to write a report on a specific area of 
theatre  in detail, in my case, costumes. I wanted to write about 
Regency Era costumes,  and found your website very helpful. I was 
wondering if you would be willing  to help me by answering a few
questions ? I would like to write specifically  about Regency hats, the 
capote, and would need to know things like how  expansive is the fabric 
(if it's in straw, for example), what to do to create  the general 
shape, what type of laces you would use for decoration... If you  could 
give me some information, point out a book that I could refer to, or 
direct me to someone else who could help me, I would be very grateful. 
Thank  you !
Jeanne
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For those who may be interested:

I'll be doing a full day of lectures in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, on 
Saturday, April 5. The lecture day is sponsored by the Milwaukee SCA 
group, but non-members are quite welcome to attend.

The lecture program will run from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (including a break 
for lunch) and will cover five topics:

The Gothic Fitted Dress
The Greenland Gored Gown
Will the Real Sideless Surcote Please Stand Up?
The Problem of Women's Heraldic Dress
Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for Costume Research

Cost is $17 for SCA members or $20 for non-members. If you're a student, 
you pay only $10. Deadline for registrations is March 22, 2008, but 
because seats are limited, I'd encourage you to get reservations in 
earlier rather than later. (If you're not a member, you can skip the 
line on the form where it asks you for an SCA name!) Garb is optional.

You can find more information on the topics, location, etc. here:
http://caeranterth.northshield.org/Calendar/Netherton.html

Feel free to forward/repost this message.

--Robin
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April 5, huh? Hmmmmm....nothing on the calendar at the moment...time to
wheedle the hubby about watching the toddler for the day... :)

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 8:30 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture date
> 
> For those who may be interested:
> 
> I'll be doing a full day of lectures in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 
> on Saturday, April 5. The lecture day is sponsored by the 
> Milwaukee SCA group, but non-members are quite welcome to attend.
> 
> The lecture program will run from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (including 
> a break for lunch) and will cover five topics:
> 
> The Gothic Fitted Dress
> The Greenland Gored Gown
> Will the Real Sideless Surcote Please Stand Up?
> The Problem of Women's Heraldic Dress
> Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for 
> Costume Research
> 
> Cost is $17 for SCA members or $20 for non-members. If you're 
> a student, you pay only $10. Deadline for registrations is 
> March 22, 2008, but because seats are limited, I'd encourage 
> you to get reservations in earlier rather than later. (If 
> you're not a member, you can skip the line on the form where 
> it asks you for an SCA name!) Garb is optional.
> 
> You can find more information on the topics, location, etc. here:
> http://caeranterth.northshield.org/Calendar/Netherton.html
> 
> Feel free to forward/repost this message.
> 
> --Robin
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed
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Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed


   We are pleased to welcome Drea Leed, independent scholar and owner of the most extensive Elizabethan and Tudor costuming reference on the Web, The Elizabethan Costume    Page, as our speaker April 12-13, 2008.

Ms. Leed has studied Renaissance clothing and textiles for over ten years. She’s presented papers at the International Congress of Medieval Studies at Kalamazoo and the Medieval Congress at Leeds, England. Ms. Leed has given several talks and seminars on the topic of Renaissance and Elizabethan dress for various groups, and taught a six-week class on Elizabethan Dress at the CostumeClassroom.com.
   Among Ms. Leed’s published works is "The Well-Dress'd    Peasant: 16th Century Workingwoman's Dress.” She has recently published an    article, "Textile Cleaning Techniques in Renaissance Europe,” in    Medieval Clothing & Textiles II.
   Ms. Leed is currently working on a complete transcription of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts and an analysis of sixteenth century tailoring as discovered through original documents.
   She lives in Springfield, Ohio with her husband and cat, where she works as a software engineer to support her research and costume book-collecting habits.
 
Saturday, April    12:
 
Introduction and General Survey of Tudor and    Elizabethan  Dress  
   Discussion of available sources/books 
   General Q&A on Tudor and Elizabethan clothing     
   Lunch (1 hour break, lunch    provided)
 
Overview of Elizabethan Underpinnings- corset,    bumroll and farthingale
   Demonstration: how to make a corset 
   End of Regular Session 

Saturday Workshop:    Making a Custom Corset Pattern  (1 hour)  
This hands-on    workshop is limited to 20 students (THREE SPACES LEFT!). All materials are    included in the registration. 
Students will learn the basics of measuring and drafting corset pattern, taking home a paper pattern suitable for constructing their own corset. After drafting is complete, Dress up! Any attendees who wish to can try on a variety of corsets.
 
Evening    Social with  Drea Leed
Information TBA at    lecture
 
 
Sunday, April  13:
   The Perfect Gown: Making an outfit that's right for you: Choosing patterns, fabrics, colors, decoration and detailing, general construction tips, good sources, accessories 

Lunch (1 hour break,    lunch provided)
   Tudor and Elizabethan Headwear and Hairstyles
   Demo: Making a French Hood & Elizabethan    Coif 
   End of Regular Session 
   Sunday Workshop: Make an Elizabethan coif (2    hours)
This hands-on workshop is limited to 20 students. (FIVE SPACES LEFT!)    All materials are included in the registration.
Students will draft, cut    and construct a linen Elizabethan Coif.

The site for this lecture    will be The Center for  Meeting and    Learning in Eugene, Oregon. We'll be in the Auditorium    room, with comfy seating, great views, and complete plug in availability for    your laptops!  Please also note that lunch for both days is    provided with your registration.

    Registration information can be found at www.CostumeTalk.com!


   Please join us for what promises to be a great weekend!


   Dame Fearga Kavanagh & Dame Karis Jessica Percy
(mka) Jonna Hayden & Jamie Parker


   Please note--this is not an    SCA event, and is not sponsored by any branch.

       
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Hello, oy there are so many good things coming up in terms of lectures 
and classes in the near future but none of them are in the Philadelphia 
region! If there is anyone out there who knows of any or may have 
influence over the planning for such events PLEASE please please start 
coming to this immediate area, we're parch!

Cape May and Gettysburg are close enough to make the trip for for 
specific events, however, those are pretty much the only nearest hubs 
for costuming. One is strictly for Civil War costuming and would you 
believe the tourists give strange stares to people in historic garb? 
Cape May has a wide range of things though I don't make it down there 
often, in fact I haven't yet. Both places are no less than three hours 
 from here and many of the attendees to CM travel that far or greater to 
go so I wonder why there is never activity in the areas in between.

Through one of my first posts, I was informed about the Costumers Guild 
which operates in my immediate area but as usual when there is or was 
such a group they are no longer active, I haven't recieved any response 
as of yet.

Do any of you attend the annual conference hosted by the Genteel Arts 
out in Gettysburg? I have heard it is very good and will likely plan to 
go far enough in advance next year that it won't be booked up.

Have any of you ever been asked to speak publicly about period clothing 
of any era?
A lady friend of mine asked me a very lovely question last night and I 
may need a little advice before giving her a reply. She was told about 
my collection of antique clothing and my general passion for it, and 
asked if I ever hold public programs involving them. I told her I 
haven't yet but am honoured to be considered in doing so. The program 
would be about 45 minutes and I am trying to come up with a theme for 
it, a way in which I can utlize my collection for such a purpose since 
I am far from having a complete collection of anything.

If anyone could offer any suggestions for a program theme and would 
need to know what I have to work with please email me directly.

Take care everybody:)

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Robin,
       When are they bringing you into town? My schedule has changed and I am 
not leaving that weekend till Saturday morning.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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CC2010Milw@cs.com wrote:
> Robin...

Answered privately.
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 18:55:55 -0800
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Nearby motels, crash space, etc.? Being Eugene area I might try sleeping in
my car, but then again maybe not?

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jamie Parker
> Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 10:38 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed
>
>
> Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed
>
>
>    We are pleased to welcome Drea Leed, independent scholar and
> owner of the most extensive Elizabethan and Tudor costuming
> reference on the Web, The Elizabethan Costume    Page, as our
> speaker April 12-13, 2008.
>
>

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Hi all!

The current issue of Threads April/May 2008,(#136) has 2 interesting articles on  theatrical costuming:

pg.34-37     Backstage at the Opera: learn how costumes are crafted for the stage  Suzanne M. Hanna  (on Michigan Opera Theatre)

pg.59-62   At The Cirque: discover the secrets behind Cirque Productions  Michaela Murphy

Enjoy!

Mary Piero Carey

We don't have issues... we have subscriptions.

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Hi..I'm new here. A friend told me about this list, so I decided to join. I  
wanted to pass along a new costuming magazine that is out. The first issue is  
available online only, and it's really good! The girl who started it is only 
16  and she has done a fantastic job! Check it out at
_www.costumemakermagazine.com_ (http://www.costumemakermagazine.com) 
 
It's well worth it!

Robin



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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I will be out of the office starting  03/07/2008 and will not return until
03/17/2008.


If you have an urgent request, call me at 510-882-4399 or talk to Amy
Sordi. Thank you!


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Subject: [h-cost] [Fwd: DISTAFF: Pre-Kalamazoo mailing]
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Greetings!

Since I haven't seen this pop up here yet, thought I'd pass it on. 
DISTAFF sponsors sessions for papers on textile/costume research at the 
International Congress on Medieval Studies in Kalamazoo, and is also 
behind the Medieval Costume and Textiles yearly journal series (many of 
the articles in those volumes were originally papers at sessions put on 
by DISTAFF).  We have several DISTAFF regulars on this list, including 
Robin Netherton. 

Susan

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	DISTAFF: Pre-Kalamazoo mailing
Date: 	Sat, 8 Mar 2008 10:54:05 -0600 (CST)
From: 	Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
To: 	DISTAFF list: ;



[This message is going to the people who have signed up for DISTAFF
announcements at previous dress/textiles sessions at the medieval
congresses at Kalamazoo and Leeds; people who have spoken at past DISTAFF
sessions or who have proposed papers; and a few other interested parties.
DISTAFF (Discussion, Interpretation, and Study of Textile Arts, Fabrics,
and Fashion) is a group formed to sponsor sessions at Kalamazoo and Leeds
on medieval and Renaissance textiles and dress.]

Once again, it's our annual warm-up post for the International Congress on
Medieval Studies at Kalamazoo, scheduled this year for May 8-11. Even if
you are not going to Kalamazoo this year, keep reading; the next few items
may still be of interest to you. (A few additional announcements will come
in a separate post.)

THIS YEAR: DISTAFF is sponsoring four sessions at Kalamazoo. They are
scheduled for Friday late afternoon and all three Saturday slots. Please
note that since the Congress program was finalized, we have had some
changes in our lineup; you will find the up-to-date scheduling information
below (and also in the Congress corrigenda). The DISTAFF reception will be
on Saturday at 5:15, right after our last session.

THINKING AHEAD: If you're considering submitting a paper proposal on a
dress/textiles topic for the 2009 Kalamazoo Congress, please drop me a
note (not a full proposal!) as soon as possible. If we have already
discussed your idea, drop me another note now as a reminder. We need this
information in hand BEFORE the Congress starts, so that we can consider it
during our planning meeting. We turn in our 2009 session request in
mid-May, just after this year's conference, and our session themes will
reflect our understanding of what submissions we can expect. We'll have
all summer to nail down the details of which papers will fit in those
sessions, so even if you haven't completely formulated your ideas on what
you might be interested in presenting, we want to hear from you now.

IDENTIFY YOURSELF: At the request of a number of DISTAFF regulars, we've
created an avenue for Congress-goers (past, present, future, or in-spirit)
to publicly display their affiliation. You can find a tasteful selection
of DISTAFF book bags, t-shirts, caps, and coffee mugs at our CafePress
shop, here: http://www.cafepress.com/distaff . All the items feature the
website logo designed by DISTAFF webmistress Drea Leed. One dollar of
every purchase helps offset the costs of DISTAFF activities at Kalamazoo.

THE 2008 DISTAFF SESSIONS. We have had one change from the published
program: Elizabeth Coatsworth is unable to make the trip and sends her
heartfelt regrets. To even out the 2008 sessions, Nancy Feldman agreed to
move from session I to take the empty slot in session IV.

Here are this year's offerings:

Friday, May 9, 3:30 p.m.
Session 318, Fetzer 2020
Dress and Textiles I: Makers and Methods
Presider: Robin Netherton, DISTAFF
-- Rigid Heddle and Weaving Sword: Images of Band Weaving in the Manesse 
   Codex
	Cindy Ruesink, Independent Scholar
-- The Sign of Some Degree: The "Mystery" of Capping
	Kirstie Buckland, The Knitting History Forum
-- Silk Dyers and the Growth of Fashion in Late Medieval Italy
	Carole Collier Frick, Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville
 
Saturday May 10, 10:00 a.m.
Session 398, Bernhard 209
Dress and Textiles II: Clothing and the Church
Presider: Gale R. Owen-Crocker, University of Manchester
-- Investing a Vestment with Value: The Interpretation of the Pallium in
   the Latin Church (c. 800-c. 1200)
	Steven A. Schoenig, S.J., Columbia University
-- Taking the Veil: Anglo-Saxon Women Religious and Liminal Symbolism
	Janet Gilligan, Wayne State College
-- Female Saints in Rupestrian Paintings in Apulia and Basilicata:
   Tradition or Fashion?
	Luisa Derosa, University of Bari
-- Donations from the Body for the Soul: Apparel, Devotion, and Status in 
   Late Medieval Strasbourg
	Charlotte A. Stanford, Brigham Young University

Saturday May 10, 1:30 p.m.
Session 455, Bernhard 210
Dress and Textiles III: Clothing, Critics, and Class
Presider: Monica L. Wright, Univ. of Louisiana-Lafayette
-- Dressing Up in Sin: Pride and Clothing in Nicole Bozon's "Char
   d'Orgueil"
	Laurie Postlewate, Barnard College
-- Women's Dress in Renaissance Venice: Matron or Courtesan?
	Jasmin Cyril, Central Michigan University
-- "Mighty in her Resources but Mightier in Virtue": The Female Image as 
   a Personification of Renaissance Venice
	Tawny Sherrill, California State University, Long Beach

Saturday May 10, 3:30 p.m.
Session 506, Bernhard 208
Dress and Textiles IV: Extant Garments and Furnishings 
Presider: Robin Netherton, DISTAFF
-- Three Embroidered Alms Purses: The Process of Production in Paris at
   the Beginning of the 14th Century [MOVED FROM SESSION 318]
	Nancy Feldman, School of the Art Institute of Chicago
-- Your Mommy Dresses You Funny: A Comparison of Personal and 
   Professional Clothing Construction Techniques in Late Antiquity
	Linda M. Blowney, University of Pennsylvania
-- Anomaly or Sole Survivor? The Impruneta Cushion and Early Italian 
   Patchwork
	Lisa Evans, Independent Scholar

Saturday May 10, 5:15 p.m.
Bernhard 107
DISTAFF reception


OTHER SESSIONS AND PAPERS OF INTEREST. As usual, the Congress program
includes several other papers of particular interest to scholars of
textiles and dress. In scanning the program, I found two other
costume-related sessions, one material culture session that may
particularly appeal to DISTAFF members, and a number of individual papers
that, judging from their titles, might have some connection to clothing
and textile themes. Please note that this is not an exhaustive list; these
are only the items that I noticed in my own skim of the program. Obviously
some of these will conflict with one another or with DISTAFF sessions.

Sessions:

Friday May 9, 10:00 a.m.
Session 206, Fetzer 1035
Costume in Medieval Literature, including Chaucer
Sponsor: Medieval Association of the Midwest (MAM)
Organizer: Laura F. Hodges, Independent Scholar
Presider: Laura F. Hodges
 -- Alison's "Coler" Continued: Bringing the Visual Evidence to the 
    Literary Problem
	Robin Netherton, DISTAFF
 -- Jean de Meun's Glad Rags on the Rack: Missing Fortune's Sartorial
    Opportunities
	Laurel Broughton, Univ. of Vermont
 -- Do Clothes Make the "Vilain"?: A Reconsideration of the "Herdsman's"
    Costume in Chretien de Troyes's Yvain
	Lorraine Kochanske Stock, Univ. of Houston

Friday May 9, 1:30 p.m.
Session 294, Bernhard 211
Clothing, Material Culture, and Iconography in the Pearl-Poems
Sponsor: Pearl-Poet Society
Organizer: Kimberly Jack, Loyola Univ., Chicago
Presider: Adrienne J. Odasso, Centre for Medieval Studies, Univ. of York
 -- Morgan's Headdress: "Toreted and Treleted with Tryfles Aboute" (SGGK
    960)
	Laura F. Hodges, Independent Scholar
 -- The Iconography of Jonah's Nudity and the Prophet's Dirty Mantle in
    Patience
	Kimberly Jack
 -- Jewels and Jewelers in Pearl
	Elizabeth Keim Harper, Univ. of North Carolina-Chapel Hill

Saturday May 10, 1:30 p.m.
Session 427, Fetzer 2016
Excavating the Middle Ages: Using Archaeology and/or Anthropology in the
Classroom
Sponsor: TEAMS (Consortium for the Teaching of the Middle Ages)
Organizer: Dorsey Armstrong, Purdue Univ.
Presider: Anita Obermeier, Univ. of New Mexico
 -- Bringing the Museum to the Classroom: Archaeological Teaching Tools
    for Underclassmen
	Cynthia Turner Camp, Cornell Univ.
 -- Teaching Material Culture and Theory in Medieval Studies: The Pros and
    Cons
	Kellie Meyer, Univ. of New Mexico
 -- Image, Fact, and the Critical Imagination: Teaching Anglo-Saxon
    Studies through Archaeology
	Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Univ. of Manchester


Individual papers: Please be aware I have no idea whether some of these
papers actually have any clothing/textile content other than their titles,
so choose accordingly. 

Thursday May 8, 1:30 p.m.
(in Session 69, Fetzer 1040: Cistercian Fathers: The Golden Age)
 -- Clothes Maketh the Saint: Aelred's Narrative Strategy in the Life of
    Saint Ninian
	Marie Anne Mayeski, Loyola Marymount Univ.

Saturday May 10, 1:30 p.m.
(in Session 413, Valley I 100: Material Objects, Spiritual Significance in
the Pearl-Poems)
 -- Pride, Penance, and Aristocratic Dress in Sir Gawain and the Green
    Knight
	Nicole D. Smith, Univ. of North Texas

Saturday May 10, 3:30 p.m.
(in Session 502, Bernhard 105: In Memory of Jacqueline Frank II:
Iconography of Medieval Paris and Saint-Denis)
 -- Suites of Power Suits: Portal Ensembles of Medieval Courtiers
	Janet Snyder, West Virginia Univ.

Sunday May 11, 8:30 a.m.
(in Session 541, Schneider 1320: Women Warriors and Women in War in the
Middle Ages)
 -- The Pan-Hispanic Ballad of La Doncella Guerrera: Cross-Dressing Woman
    or Traditional Girl Next Door?
	Sarah Portnoy, Univ. of Southern California

Sunday May 11, 8:30 a.m.
(in Session 542, Schneider 1330: Physical Object, Somatic Response: Art
and Bodies during the Middle Ages)
 -- (Un)Dressed: Nakedness and Adornment in Chaucer's The Book of the
    Duchess
	Gabriel Haley, Univ. of Virginia

Sunday May 11, 10:30 a.m.
(in Session 576, Fetzer 1035: Medieval Border Cultures II: Cultural
Frontiers in Britain and France)
 -- Trinkets and Charms: The Use and Socio-cultural Significance of Dress
    Accessories from Two Border Regions in Britain, ca. 1300-1700
	Eleanor Standley, Durham Univ.


You can see the Congress schedule for yourself at:
http://www.wmich.edu/medieval/congress/sessions.html

Note that Congress pre-registration ends April 15, and there's a hefty
late fee for anyone who registers after that point (including on-site
registrants). For registration, go to:
http://www.wmich.edu/medieval/congress/registration.html


Feel free to forward this message to other interested parties. As usual,
anyone who attends any DISTAFF sessions may get on the "member" list just
by signing the sheet we pass around at each year's sessions. There are no
dues, meetings, or obligations.


We look forward to seeing many of you next month!

--Robin Netherton, for DISTAFF      





 






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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Other DISTAFF announcements
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Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> Since I haven't seen this pop up here yet, thought I'd pass it on. 
<snip post listing DISTAFF sessions at Kalamazoo 2008>

Thanks, Susan! I would have done this myself shortly -- you beat me to it.

Below are a couple of other announcements I just sent to the DISTAFF 
list that might be of interest to h-cost. And in a moment I'll post 
separately some news related to the Medieval Clothing and Textiles 
journal, separated out for easier forwarding. Feel free to forward 
either or both of the announcements below.

NEWSLETTER FOR ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES. Ulla Mannering of the Centre for 
Textile Research in Copenhagen sends this notice: As of 2008, 
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter (ATN) is being published by the newly 
established Friends of Archaeological Textiles Newsletter and edited at 
the Centre for Textile Research. ATN is a twice-yearly publication 
focusing on textiles found in archaeological contexts dating from the 
prehistoric to the modern age. Geographically, ATN concerns itself 
mainly with the Old World textiles (from Western Europe to Japan) but 
New World textiles may be included if deemed relevant. ATN began 
publication in 1985 to provide a medium for discussion, interaction, and 
exchange of information between archaeologists, conservators, 
historians, art historians, biologists, chemists, geologists, and 
craftspeople who have archaeological textiles at the core of their 
interests. Over the years, ATN has moved from an informational service 
to become an important venue for publication of important scientific 
articles. It also includes notes and queries, reviews, resources, and 
conference and event announcements.  To subscribe, visit 
http://www.atnfriends.com .

BAYEUX TAPESTRY CONFERENCE. The British Museum is sponsoring a 
conference called “The BT@ the BM: New Research on the Bayeux Tapestry” 
on July 15-16, 2008. The conference seeks to highlight recent and new 
research on the Tapestry, and to disseminate those findings to a wider 
audience, in the hope of furthering discussion, debate, and the sharing 
of ideas about this unique textile. Conference fee is £10 for one day or 
£15 for both days. For details, contact Dr. Michael Lewis, Department of 
Portable Antiquities & Treasure, British Museum, London, WC1B 3DG; 
e-mail mlewis@thebritishmuseum.ac.uk ; tel: (0044) 020 7323 8611.

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Subject: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
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I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I  
found at the library.

"Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych" was  
published in 2006 in conjunction with an exhibition of the same name,  
prepared by the National Gallery of Art in Washington and the  
Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten in Antwerp, in association with  
Harvard University Art Museums.  Authors are John Oliver Hand,  
Catherine A. Metzger, and Ron Spronk.  From the opening paragraph of  
the foreword, to the final paragraph of the acknowledgments on p.  
275, this book is an armchair art history seminar of the Low  
Countries in the 15th & 16th centuries and a delight to read.  Every  
work is discussed in terms of who made it, for whom, when, and what  
some of the symbols are [or may be, if there's no consensus] -- and  
while that's the part that contributed to my personal education, the  
really cool part is that each work is also represented by good color  
reproductions of the whole work and details thereof -- pages and  
pages of STUFF.

This book is a treasure trove of household furnishing and dress  
details.  Carpets, candles, books, vases, scissors...!  Slippers,  
smocks, rosaries, rings, purses...!  I can't take it all in, in one  
sitting.  And I really want to know:  are those frog closures on St.  
Paul's coat (on p. 131), or just a rendition of ladder lacing?  ;-)   
(Painted in the first half of the 16th century, it reminds me a bit  
of the "Polish" fastenings of some Elizabethan doublets.)

Anyway, I highly recommend this work for students of material culture  
as well as art history students.  It's big -- it's hard to carry home  
in a standard-size briefcase -- and it's going to be even more  
difficult to return because it's so beautiful it'll hurt to give it  
up.  :-)  And there's an awesome bibliography, too, which has had me  
pounding out ILL requests all morning.

Enjoy!
Suzanne

p.s.  ISBN 0-300-12155-5, 339 p., published by the National Gallery  
of Art (Washington) in association with Yale University Press.

p.p.s  I know someone will ask, so here's the quote from the  
Foreword:  "In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries master artists  
such as Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden, and Hugo van der Goes-- 
working in the territory that includes present-day Belgium, The  
Netherlands, Luxembourg, and portions of France--produced some of the  
most beautiful and intriguing paintings of the period.  The  
significance of this region at the time far outstripped its  
relatively small size, for its cities constituted vital hubs for  
commerce and banking, major sources of fine art and luxury items, and  
dynamic centers for a burgeoning art market.  One popular art form  
was the Netherlandish diptych, comprising two panels hinged together  
like a book, on which the painted images assumed a compelling  
relationship to one another as a result of their pairing. ..."   And  
the final line of the Acknowledgments:  "Finally, we express  
heartfelt thanks to Dare Hartwell, Beth Miller, and Karma Tomm, who  
on many occasions saved us from becoming totally unhinged."

  
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Feel free to forward this to other individuals and lists.

Volume 4 of the annual journal Medieval Clothing and Textiles will be 
published in April 2008. Papers in this volume of particular interest to 
costumers and re-enactors include:
  -- an in-depth study of an extant 14th-century embroidered linen cap 
(with diagrams explaining both the cap construction and the embroidery 
stitches)
  -- a classification system for surviving archaeological textiles based 
on their visual attributes (with photos)
  -- a re-analysis of the Greenland multi-gored gown, examining the 
possible development of its construction (with diagrams) and comparing 
it with styles in mainland Europe
  -- an overview of the use and types of quilts in Henry VIII's 
inventory, with a close look at one unusual and mysterious example

... as well as other papers that will be of particular interest to 
individuals depending on their areas and periods of focus. See details 
and a full contents list at http://www.boydell.co.uk/43833662.HTM .

PREVIOUS MC&T VOLUMES: If you haven’t bought your own copies of the 
journal yet because you’ve been waiting for a good deal, now is the 
time. Boydell and Brewer will shortly be offering the first three 
volumes as a three-book set at a substantial discount: £50 (UK) or $95 
(US). That’s roughly 40 percent off list price. I don’t have a webpage 
for the offer yet, but it should be available by April 17, 2008, via the 
B&B website at http://www.boydell.co.uk , under the ISBN 
978-1-84383-420-5. This offer is open to anyone.
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  9 21:00:35 2008
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "SCA-GARB" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 18:00:06 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: [MEDIEV-L:55023] mss
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I lurk on this list which is for Professional Academics.  They do tolerate
and take interest in those without the degrees and tenure tracks.  They can
be some of our own Big League SCA members disguised as their Mundane selves
(Duke Finnvarr de Trahe, Sir Andrew of Riga, and more) who actually teach
College Courses and have letters behind their names.  They can also be
people with a lot of Professional Re-enactment experience (Henk d'Jong who
loathes the SCA).  Best yet, there are a bunch of lurkers like myself who
occasionally ask a question, or wade in when the Academic is obviously wrong
(women's side saddles were unsafe at any speed which Countess Illaria took
out with words and pictures!)

At any rate, although this looks like a blog address, it has some of the
neatest Manuscripts you have ever seen on the web, complete with
illuminations.  The text is mainly in French but who buys a book (or, in
this case looks at it) for the text? (grin).  This selection of manuscripts
has wonderful illuminations.  I suspect it has MUCH more but my second
language is Troll.

Regina

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-MEDIEV-L@listproc.cc.ku.edu
[mailto:owner-MEDIEV-L@listproc.cc.ku.edu]On Behalf Of pecia
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 7:45 AM
To: MEDIEV-L@listproc.cc.ku.edu
Subject: [MEDIEV-L:55023] mss


Pierre Geraut et son exemplaire du « Roman de la Rose » (ms Paris
Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève 1127)

Les Coustumes de Bretaigne de Guillaume Davy

Le Roman de Otinel : un copiste de Saint-Brieuc en 1317 ...

http://blog.pecia.fr

jean luc deuffic
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 18:40:15 -0800
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I have one word for you: Enabler!!  

Book is for Sale on Amazon for a mere (!) $54.00.

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Suzanne
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 10:17 AM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
> 
> 
> I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I  
> found at the library.
> 
> "Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych" 
> 
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Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 19:37:56 -0700
From: Sharon Zakhour <Sharon.Zakhour@Sun.COM>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
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Yes, it's a good price, but it's out of stock.  :-)

Bianca

Wanda Pease wrote:
> I have one word for you: Enabler!!  
>
> Book is for Sale on Amazon for a mere (!) $54.00.
>
> Regina
>   
_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] MC&T journal,
	new volume announcement and a special offer on past volumes
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 23:41:56 -0500
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On Sunday 09 March 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
> Feel free to forward this to other individuals and lists.

[snip]
>
> PREVIOUS MC&T VOLUMES: If you haven=92t bought your own copies of the
> journal yet because you=92ve been waiting for a good deal, now is the
> time. Boydell and Brewer will shortly be offering the first three
> volumes as a three-book set at a substantial discount: =A350 (UK) or $95
> (US). That=92s roughly 40 percent off list price. I don=92t have a webpage
> for the offer yet, but it should be available by April 17, 2008, via the
> B&B website at http://www.boydell.co.uk , under the ISBN
> 978-1-84383-420-5. This offer is open to anyone.

I'd be upset, except I've managed to get the existing 3 volumes for close t=
o=20
this price.  :-)

I really am looking forward to IV--it has several articles I expect to find=
=20
very, very interesting with regard to my main area of costume interest.

=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke
smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I
live too far away!)

So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent
and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there.

I've found a few online references
(http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0715272815935.html?4,
http://ask.yahoo.com/20021212.html,
http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-cigarette-smoke-smell)
and while I'm still researching, I have a few questions:

1) most of the recommendations I've read for removing tobacco smoke
from fabrics involve phospate based detergents, vinegar, and/or
ammonia. This is great for whites, but will this affect dyed fabrics?

2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as
linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or
silk items?

3) Any further recommendations?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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On Mar 10, 2008, at 6:12 PM, A. Thurman wrote:

> My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke
> smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I
> live too far away!)
>
> So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent
> and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there.

The Sharper Image "ionic breeze" air cleaners are actually  
surprisingly good on getting out smoke odors if you use them in an  
enclosed space. Hang your stuff in a closet, plug in the air cleaner,  
and close the door. Leave it for a week or so. The cleaner produces a  
small amount of ozone, and that just eats up the smoke smell.

Then there's the old theatrical trick; fill a pump-spray bottle full  
of vodka. Hang the stuff you want to deodorize, and mist lightly with  
vodka. Repeat daily for a few days.

If all else fails, Febreeze.

andy
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Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:01:11 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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I don't know if it would work on clothing, but this is the
recommendation I got for removing the smell from a meat filled freezer
that went bad.....

place newspapers on the bottom of the container, sprinkle baking soda
in a generous layer and then sprinkle that generously with vanilla.
It absorbed the smell out of the freezer, which I thought was a goner,
like you wouldn't believe.

Katy

On 3/10/08, A. Thurman <athurman@gmail.com> wrote:
> My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke
> smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I
> live too far away!)
>
> So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent
> and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there.
>
> I've found a few online references
> (http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0715272815935.html?4,
> http://ask.yahoo.com/20021212.html,
> http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-cigarette-smoke-smell)
> and while I'm still researching, I have a few questions:
>
> 1) most of the recommendations I've read for removing tobacco smoke
> from fabrics involve phospate based detergents, vinegar, and/or
> ammonia. This is great for whites, but will this affect dyed fabrics?
>
> 2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as
> linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or
> silk items?
>
> 3) Any further recommendations?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allison T.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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A good dry cleaner should be able to get the smell out of the wool 
and silk.  I had a wool military beret borrowed by a smoker friend 
(who has since quit - yay!!)  When I got it back it reeked of 
smoke.  I took it to the cleaners and when it came back - no 
smell!  BTW, this was a cleaner that used the CO2 process - so the 
understructure was not affected, and there was no chemical smell, either.

HTH,
Sandy

At 09:01 PM 3/10/2008, you wrote:
> > 2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as
> > linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or
> > silk items?
>
> > Allison T.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 05:06:50 -0400
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There is a spray product available at places such as Home Depot that
does a very good job of removing smoke smells from things. I didn't use
it on clothing, but read the label and see if it's recommended or not. A
few years back our kitchen caught fire and this spray really did an
excellent job on the house, including the furniture. I gave the rest of
the can to my sister to get the tobacco pipe smell out of her car after
her husband has been driving it for a while. She said it worked there as
well. Sorry I can't remember the exact name but it was located in the
cleaning section of HD. 

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of A. Thurman
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 9:12 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics

My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke
smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I
live too far away!)

So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent
and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there.

I've found a few online references
(http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0715272815935.html?4,
http://ask.yahoo.com/20021212.html,
http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-cigaret
te-smoke-smell)
and while I'm still researching, I have a few questions:

1) most of the recommendations I've read for removing tobacco smoke
from fabrics involve phospate based detergents, vinegar, and/or
ammonia. This is great for whites, but will this affect dyed fabrics?

2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as
linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or
silk items?

3) Any further recommendations?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 09:33:30 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Hey, I never told you to BUY the book!  ;-)  That's what Inter- 
Library Loan is for....

Suzanne

> From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> Date: March 9, 2008 9:40:15 PM CDT
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> I have one word for you: Enabler!!
>
> Book is for Sale on Amazon for a mere (!) $54.00.
>
> Regina
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
>> bounces@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of Suzanne
>> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 10:17 AM
>> To: h-costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] book: "Prayers and Portraits"
>>
>>
>> I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I
>> found at the library.
>>
>> "Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych"
>>

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I have been doing this for a couple of years now through the Scottsdale Cen=
ter for the Arts and also the Phoenix Art Museum as well as some college le=
cturing. Also, our PAM has a costume institute - so that small group is alw=
ays happy for a lecture or demonstration.   My suggestion is to contact a l=
ocal museum, art center, or college and offer up your services.  Offer  a t=
opic to them and solicit ideas...they are thrilled whenever I do something.=
=20
=20
I should note, I've only been paid once for doing this, and I think it work=
ed out to less than $5.00 an hour, but it is SO much fun!
=20
Sg
_____________________________________________________________> Have any of =
you ever been asked to speak publicly about period clothing > of any era?> =
A lady friend of mine asked me a very lovely question last night and I > ma=
y need a little advice before giving her a reply. She was told about > my c=
ollection of antique clothing and my general passion for it, and > asked if=
 I ever hold public programs involving them. I told her I > haven't yet but=
 am honoured to be considered in doing so. The program > would be about 45 =
minutes and I am trying to come up with a theme for > it, a way in which I =
can utlize my collection for such a purpose since > I am far from having a =
complete collection of anything.> > If anyone could offer any suggestions f=
or a program theme and would > need to know what I have to work with please=
 email me directly.> > Take care everybody:)> > ___________________________=
____________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> htt=
p://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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I haven't tried it on smoke, but good old White Vinegar is my fall back. Lord 
knows it works for getting a certain cat smell out of fabric for me!

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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From: Antonia Calvo <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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CC2010Milw@cs.com wrote:

>I haven't tried it on smoke, but good old White Vinegar is my fall back. Lord 
>knows it works for getting a certain cat smell out of fabric for me!
>  
>


Does it work when the cat is a smoker?


-- 
Antonia Calvo 
(formerly known as Adele de Maisieres)

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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If you have the capability the best thing I've ever found for getting smoke  
out of fabrics is simply to give them a really good airing - preferably  
outdoors.





   
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We had some threads come in on a special order (the type you can't 
return).  Well, they were the nastiest smelling things due to someone 
being a smoker where they were stored.  Someone made the suggestion to 
put the threads in a paper bag then put the bag into the freezer over 
night.  Surprisingly enough, it worked.  Being in the freezer killed the 
icky tobacco smoke stink.

Hope this helps.

Peggy

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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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We've been looking at this painting
http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422

Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halo's).  To my *very*  
untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than Magi.  The  
individual in the peach/orange with the blue head-wrap reminds me more  
of The Magdalene rather than one of the Magi.

I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints iconography -- and  
I know that there are folks on this list that are more knowledgeable  
than I.  Half my brain tells me that I should just take the painting  
title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't  
like any other representations of Magi that I've seen.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:18:55 -0400
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Well, here is my opion: I love the Christian art from Early through the Byz=
antine Era.
At that time, any who actively participated in the Nativity paintings were =
given the halo to distinguish who were important and those who were inciden=
tal to the painting. Mother, baby, Joseph and magi had that honor. It was a=
s if to say these people were touched by God to be there at that time, to w=
itness this special event.. the birth of God's Son made into human flesh. T=
he fulfilment of the prophesies of the Jewish Bible/Torah.=20
The magi were well educated men, usually of high ranking and social status.=
.. so people would believe them. They researched the star for many years be=
fore finding the Christ child. THey had travelled for mnay months to get th=
ere at just the right time.=20
Joseph was given this honor because God and his angels had told him that Ma=
ry had notbetrayed their marriage vow. Joseph was to raise the holy child a=
nd guide him until he was old enough to begin his teachings.=20
Mary, of course. was the Holy Vessel in which the Holy Child was made flesh=
. She was perfect in God's eyes, the symbol of the love and caring that onl=
y a mother can have most of the time. Mary had been choosen long before she=
 was told by the angel.=20
The halos themselves held stars to represent the heavens and godly environm=
ents. This was the symbol of heaven... the star... just like the star that =
shone that night.
I say all this because I took a class on Early Christian Art and Iconograph=
y. I did research on the Madonna and Child in the Haga Sophia. Through that=
 research, I read lots of books trying to find out what each part meant. Th=
e colors, the jewels, the way the people were portrayed by posture... right=
 down to that white hanky on Mary's finger. I finally found out what that w=
as last year. I met a man who was Orthodox Christian from Constantinople/Is=
tanbul. He told me that the handkerchief respresented the partonage of Mary=
, who was the parton saint of that city. Through her, the city prospered an=
d was under her protection. Some say the cloth represented the swaddling cl=
othes, or the cloth in which the body of Christ was wrapped (especially the=
 cloth that was put over the face of the dead before wrapping and oils appl=
ied) or the cloth to wipe away her tears at his death. Either way, the symb=
olism is a wide open field. Well worth reading if you're really interested.=
 Look in iconography books and symbol books.
Sorry so long a message but I love that research. Great stuff to those Chri=
stians that don't know and aren't taught in thier churches either. Most of =
the symbolism is lost to the books when it does have a bearing on any faith=
 in the world, Christian, Jew, Hebrew or Moslim. Don't know about other rel=
igions but all have symbolism.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> Date: Tue, 11 Mar=
 2008 19:58:23 -0400> From: sfarmer@goldsword.com> To: h-costume@indra.com>=
 CC: > Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question> > We've been looking a=
t this painting> http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg> Bille=
d as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422> > Are those really=
 the Magi? (The folks with the halo's). To my *very* > untrained eye, they =
remind me more of saints than Magi. The > individual in the peach/orange wi=
th the blue head-wrap reminds me more > of The Magdalene rather than one of=
 the Magi.> > I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints iconograph=
y -- and > I know that there are folks on this list that are more knowledge=
able > than I. Half my brain tells me that I should just take the painting =
> title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't > like=
 any other representations of Magi that I've seen.> > Thanks!> Susan> -----=
> Susan Farmer> sfarmer@goldsword.com> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College=
> Division of Science and Math> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/>=
 > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing lis=
t> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costu=
me
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.=A0You IM, we g=
ive.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=3Dtext_hotmail_join=
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Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:52:08 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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Hmmmm. I'm usually pretty good at this (Catholic school fom grade 1 through
grad school) I would have thought the person in the front in red was
probably Mary Magdelene because the cup is part of the iconography and it
looks like a woman. But I am stumped.

St. Joseph is the guy in yellow at the left.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question


We've been looking at this painting
http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422

Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halo's).  To my *very*
untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than Magi.  The
individual in the peach/orange with the blue head-wrap reminds me more
of The Magdalene rather than one of the Magi.

I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints iconography -- and
I know that there are folks on this list that are more knowledgeable
than I.  Half my brain tells me that I should just take the painting
title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't
like any other representations of Magi that I've seen.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Well, not that I'm trained either...but if you zoom in the two guys kneeling
have crowns by their feet, indicating their royalty I assume, which would
point to Magi/Kings. Ah - the third crown is behind the back of the standing
guy.

Also, I don't know when it started, but one of the Magi very often is
dressed like a far eastern/persian (vs. two that look more European), which
may by the one with the blue wrap around his head. They are also all
carrying small vials/gifts, which would again be Magi. 

Also, Jesus is an infant, and the Magdalene doesn't show up in the Biblical
account until He is well into His ministry (after age 30).

So, that's my two cents.

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:58 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
> 
> We've been looking at this painting
> http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
> Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422
> 
> Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halo's).  To 
> my *very* untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than 
> Magi.  The individual in the peach/orange with the blue 
> head-wrap reminds me more of The Magdalene rather than one of 
> the Magi.
> 
> I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints 
> iconography -- and I know that there are folks on this list 
> that are more knowledgeable than I.  Half my brain tells me 
> that I should just take the painting title at face value and 
> go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't like any other 
> representations of Magi that I've seen.
> 
> Thanks!
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
> Division of Science and Math
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> Hmmmm. I'm usually pretty good at this (Catholic school fom grade 1 through
> grad school) I would have thought the person in the front in red was
> probably Mary Magdelene because the cup is part of the iconography and it
> looks like a woman. But I am stumped.

See, that's what I thought.  The belt makes it look like a woman's  
garment; but the bearded man on the horse in the background is also  
wearing a belted garment.

It's got me stumped; but I'm so far out of my league on this one!

>
> St. Joseph is the guy in yellow at the left.
>

nods.  That one I knew!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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>  Ah - the third crown is behind the back of the standing guy.

     Yes, held by a woman (?) who is also holding a sword.

     My guess is that the Magi are the three bearded men with halos.  The
one with the blue headwrap seems to be wearing a high-waisted gown
and seems to have breasts.  No cloak like the three (definite) men
are wearing.

     Notice also the woman holding the sword and crown also has blue
gloves, as does the guy with the pointy beard and blue turban & wrap.

     At first I thought Magi in green held a sword, but it looks more like
the lining of his cloak.

     Interesting painting!

     -Carol

>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:58 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
>>
>> We've been looking at this painting
>> http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
>> Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422
>>
>> Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halos).  To
>> my *very* untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than
>> Magi.  The individual in the peach/orange with the blue
>> head-wrap reminds me more of The Magdalene rather than one of
>> the Magi.
>>
>> I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints
>> iconography -- and I know that there are folks on this list
>> that are more knowledgeable than I.  Half my brain tells me
>> that I should just take the painting title at face value and
>> go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't like any other
>> representations of Magi that I've seen.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Susan
>> -----
>> Susan Farmer
>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
>> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
>> Division of Science and Math
>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Joseph is the one in the left lower corner in yellow.
The Magi in red seems to be a little fancier then the other two. There is
always one magi that looks different (Persian, young,...), but this one
definitely looks female. A larger picture helps a wee bit.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4e/Don_Lorenzo_Monaco_001.jp
g

http://tinyurl.com/2xxo2r

Here the young mens garments have two waistline?(A bit blurry)
http://tinyurl.com/ytvw4m

The retainer in lavender has a liripipe on not a high waisted belt. You can
see a lower waistline on him.

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11710&Empnum=0&Inicio=16
In the beheading of St. Catherine,(#19) the man to the far right appears to
have it tied a few inches above the natural waistline. But the "Virgin
Annunciate" (#24) shows a high waistline. :P

Anyway the hair indicates male even if the waistline suggests female.


-----Original Message-----
>  Ah - the third crown is behind the back of the standing guy.

     Yes, held by a woman (?) who is also holding a sword.

     My guess is that the Magi are the three bearded men with halos.  The
one with the blue headwrap seems to be wearing a high-waisted gown
and seems to have breasts.  No cloak like the three (definite) men
are wearing.

     Notice also the woman holding the sword and crown also has blue
gloves, as does the guy with the pointy beard and blue turban & wrap.

     At first I thought Magi in green held a sword, but it looks more like
the lining of his cloak.

     Interesting painting!

     -Carol

>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:58 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
>>
>> We've been looking at this painting
>> http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
>> Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422
>>
>> Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halos).  To
>> my *very* untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than
>> Magi.  The individual in the peach/orange with the blue
>> head-wrap reminds me more of The Magdalene rather than one of
>> the Magi.
>>
>> I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints
>> iconography -- and I know that there are folks on this list
>> that are more knowledgeable than I.  Half my brain tells me
>> that I should just take the painting title at face value and
>> go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't like any other
>> representations of Magi that I've seen.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Susan
>> -----
>> Susan Farmer
>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
>> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
>> Division of Science and Math
>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<64225.72.13.239.193.1205287407.squirrel@webmail.patriot.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 22:05:01 -0500
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How do you determine that the person holding the sword and crown is a woman?
My scan of the crowd seems to show all men, and holding a sword would
definitely be a man's job. The gown worn is pretty much the same as the
black man in pink directly to his right.

And as mentioned before, the man in yellow sitting in the corner is
definitely Joseph. For one, he has no brocaded trim on his gown. Not sure if
yellow is significant (probably!) 

And I still think the red-gowned person is the third Magi, as 1) that is
where the crown is and 2) this person is holding one of the three gifts.
Yellow gowned Joseph is not.

Where is Robin to tell us all how far off we are??? :-)

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of aquazoo@patriot.net
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 9:03 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
> 
> >  Ah - the third crown is behind the back of the standing guy.
> 
>      Yes, held by a woman (?) who is also holding a sword.
> 
>      My guess is that the Magi are the three bearded men with 
> halos.  The one with the blue headwrap seems to be wearing a 
> high-waisted gown and seems to have breasts.  No cloak like 
> the three (definite) men are wearing.
> 
>      Notice also the woman holding the sword and crown also 
> has blue gloves, as does the guy with the pointy beard and 
> blue turban & wrap.
> 
>      At first I thought Magi in green held a sword, but it 
> looks more like the lining of his cloak.
> 
>      Interesting painting!
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> >> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer
> >> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:58 PM
> >> To: Historical Costume
> >> Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
> >>
> >> We've been looking at this painting
> >> http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
> >> Billed as "Adoration of the Magi" by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422
> >>
> >> Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halos).  
> To my *very* 
> >> untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than Magi.  The 
> >> individual in the peach/orange with the blue head-wrap reminds me 
> >> more of The Magdalene rather than one of the Magi.
> >>
> >> I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints 
> iconography -- and 
> >> I know that there are folks on this list that are more 
> knowledgeable 
> >> than I.  Half my brain tells me that I should just take 
> the painting 
> >> title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't 
> >> like any other representations of Magi that I've seen.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Susan
> >> -----
> >> Susan Farmer
> >> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> >> Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
> >> Division of Science and Math
> >> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> And as mentioned before, the man in yellow sitting in the corner is
> definitely Joseph. For one, he has no brocaded trim on his gown. Not sure if
> yellow is significant (probably!) 

Yes to all. Yellow is one of the "Jewish" clues in art of some places 
and periods, very likely including this one.

> And I still think the red-gowned person is the third Magi, as 1) that is
> where the crown is and 2) this person is holding one of the three gifts.

Correct. One of the Magi is routinely shown as a beardless, beautiful 
youth, dressed in particularly exotic foreign dress. That's him. The 
other two, according to custom, are middle-aged and old respectively, so 
they represent the three ages of man.

(In Northern painting, but not so often in Italian, the three are also 
typically of different races -- white Western European, swarthy or black 
African, and some attempt at Asian or, failing that, Eastern European. 
These patterns don't match up consistently with the age distribution; 
e.g. sometimes the African is young, sometimes middle-aged.)

Often people look at the gift out of context and think it's the 
Magdalen's ointment jar, but that's obviously not the correct reading 
here. The entire painting is very formulaic; that's part the artist's 
deliberate attempt to make sure the viewer recognizes it. You have 
mother, baby, three haloed figures in exotic dress, three crowns, three 
gifts, the stable setting; these are the necessary ingredients for the 
Magi scene. Positions are pretty standardized also: One of the Magi is 
presenting a gift, the others waiting, at least one of them kneeling. 
Joseph is in the corner, placed as observer but not participant (look at 
the direction of the gazes). And so on.

Artists will sometimes play with the arrangement of a formulaic scene 
for artistic purposes. Because people are used to seeing a scene done in 
a certain way, making a change can be a way to call attention to some 
aspect, e.g. you might direct the Virgin's gaze the position of a donor, 
or align the figures to place emphasis on some element of the setting. I 
don't think we need to read the young Magus as a woman, though; that 
would be beyond the scope of the sort of artistic alteration one sees in 
this period. And although this figure has feminine elements, you do see 
a *lot* of Italian youths who look feminine to our eyes.

The figures standing around all look to me like male entourage -- lots 
of foreign elements in the headwear, etc. I'd like to know more about 
the circumstances of the image; there may be a religious order that has 
some significance in the representation here.

Lots of stuff going on up top, most noticeably the Annunciation to the 
Shepherds.

No idea about that little cloud of praying angels on the stable wall.

 > Where is Robin to tell us all how far off we are??? :-)

Robin has been fighting with e-mail trouble all day. If you've tried to 
write me and it bounced, keep trying. I'm still yelling at my ISP.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Saint/iconography question
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I'm no expert on mediaeval costume, but I did happen to read yesterday =
that, before it became customary to show the Magi as of different races =
(to signify all peoples acknowledging Jesus), they used to be portrayed as =
representing different age groups.=20

Of the 3 figures presenting containers, 1 has a grey beard, 2 a brown one, =
and 3 is beardless. Admittedly he does look feminine to our eyes, but the =
fact that he holds a phial like the others suggests to me that he is a =
Magus.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 06:38:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: saint/iconography question
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Unless the context of this painting is a series on the
nativity I wonder if it actually more of a sideways
"Virgin and Child Entroned with Saints and Angels."
One is more likely to see Mary and Jesus presented in
the center with saint important to the patron around
the sides or below. I've been looking a lots and lots
of nativity images in researching children's clothing
and there generally aren't that many people hanging
around a regualr nativity. But then why don't the rest
of them have halos. 

If the person in red looks like Mary Magdalene then
the guy in front looks a lot like St. Peter. The third
haloed fellow just doesn't look exotic enough to be a
Magi. The artist certainly knew how to paint people of
different ethnities. 

Could the three haloed people be saints important in
the life of Jesus. Peter and Mary M make sense but
could the third one be Paul. He sometimes is depicted
with a sword. 

Twelve years of Catholic school AND an art history
degree and I'm still not sure. Context is everything.
Maybe the patron was picky or the artist's modelbook
had the saints mislabeled. 

Cheers,
Mary



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Subject: [h-cost] material for Russian coat
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Yes it has been like years but a friend of mine needs help that only 
clothaholics can provide. She would like to make the following coat for a 
play and still actually be able to use afterwards. She lives in England and 
is relatively clueless about where to find winter fabrics now that it is 
almost spring. Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few online 
fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the 
appropriate type of material even at this time of year?

 Thanks in advance!

 Cass (clothaholic and costumer on ice until the kids are in school and 
the hubby has a better job...) 

 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] material for Russian coat
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Hi--

I have just discovered a local store geared toward the craft of hooked =
and needle-punched and braided rugs-- which uses wool cut into narrow =
strips. So in this age of polar fleece, there's a store chock-full of =
wools of all weights and colors, year-round! I suggest she look for =
something like that.=20

No idea if that particular craft is "big" in England, but it's certainly =
worth looking into...


Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
> Behalf Of Cassandra Greer
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:07 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] material for Russian coat
>=20
> Yes it has been like years but a friend of mine needs help that only
> clothaholics can provide. She would like to make the following coat =
for a
> play and still actually be able to use afterwards. She lives in =
England
> and
> is relatively clueless about where to find winter fabrics now that it =
is
> almost spring. Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few =
online
> fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the
> appropriate type of material even at this time of year?
>=20
> =A0Thanks in advance!
>=20
> =A0Cass (clothaholic and costumer on ice until the kids are in school =
and
> the hubby has a better job...)
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
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Another useful bit to help you identify the Magi: frankincense and myrrh 
are aromatic resins*, so they're going to be in containers. Two of the 
Magi are always holding containers of some sort--either covered cups or 
boxes.

Incidentally, the actual Biblical text (in Luke, IIRC) does not specify 
the number of Magi, it just says "and there came wise men from the East". 
People decided that there were three of them because there were three 
gifts mentioned.

Regards,

Jen/pixel/Margaret

*if you spill myrrh into your electric stove and fail to clean it out 
sufficiently, the aroma when the stove is on will last about six months.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 92
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Wherabouts is she?  And what kind of woollen fabric is she  after?
 
There's always the re-enactor's market this weekend.
 
Failing that there are a number of suppliers that carry wools all year  round 
for re-enactors and the like.  Depends what she needs.
 
There are some who make hooky mats here still, but it's a bit of a dying  art 
- has been seen as antiquated for quite a few decades - although there are  
shops here that will have stuff for it, there aren't likely to be many that  
specialise in that alone.
 
Mind you, that said retail haberdashery shops and fabric shops in general  
are something of a dying breed here.
 
 
 


>Yes it has been like years but a friend of mine needs help that  only 
>clothaholics can provide. She would like to make the following coat  for a 
>play and still actually be able to use afterwards. She lives in  England and 
>is relatively clueless about where to find winter fabrics  now that it is 
>almost spring. Could any of you knowledgeable people  suggest a few online 
>fabric stores either in the States or in Europe  that would have the 
>appropriate type of material even at this time of  year?

>Thanks in advance!

>Cass (clothaholic and  costumer on ice until the kids are in school and 
>the hubby has a better  job...) 
 
 
In a message dated 12/03/2008 18:02:55 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hi--

I have just discovered a local store geared toward the  craft of hooked and 
needle-punched and braided rugs-- which uses wool cut into  narrow strips. So 
in this age of polar fleece, there's a store chock-full of  wools of all 
weights and colors, year-round! I suggest she look for something  like that. 

No idea if that particular craft is "big" in England, but  it's certainly 
worth looking  into...


Astrida


 



   
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Cassandra Greer wrote:
>  Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few online 
> fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the 
> appropriate type of material even at this time of year?
>
>   
Fabric.com has a few wools in solid colors left. Fashionfabricsclub.com 
has a better variety, including blends, in various prices.  
Voguefabricsstore.com also has wools at reasonable prices. Much more 
expensive wools can be had from dozens of online shops by searching 
"fabric store wool" on google.

Unless she is looking for something specific in color or weave, it ought 
to be fairly easy to find  coat weight fabrics online.



Dawn

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> Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:27:27 -0500> From: pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com
=20
*if you spill myrrh into your electric stove and fail to clean it out suffi=
ciently, the aroma when the stove is on will last about six months.LOL!  Th=
at little tidbit has all the earmarks of the voice of experience....
=20
Laurie
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ur "fix".
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
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Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:25:23 +1300
From: Antonia Calvo <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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CC2010Milw@cs.com wrote:

>I haven't tried it on smoke, but good old White Vinegar is my fall back. 
Lord 
>knows it works for getting a certain cat smell out of fabric for me!
>
Does it work when the cat is a smoker?
-- 
Antonia Calvo 
(formerly known as Adele de Maisieres) 

Yes, but only Cigars and Pipes, and Turkish Cigarettes!

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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Quoting Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com>:

> Unless the context of this painting is a series on the
> nativity I wonder if it actually more of a sideways
> "Virgin and Child Entroned with Saints and Angels."
> One is more likely to see Mary and Jesus presented in
> the center with saint important to the patron around
> the sides or below. I've been looking a lots and lots
> of nativity images in researching children's clothing
> and there generally aren't that many people hanging
> around a regualr nativity. But then why don't the rest
> of them have halos.

This is what the wga.hu site says about the painting.

"Probably created for the Sant'Egidio's church in Florence, the =20
central panel was executed by Lorenzo Monaco, painter and Camaldolite =20
monk whose activity as illuminator appears in bright colours. His =20
wholly Gothic style also emerges in lengthened figures. Prophets and =20
the Annunciation in the upper part are by Cosimo Rosselli, and was =20
added at the end of 15th century when the original triptych was made =20
rectangular, with the almost complete abolition of divisions between =20
panels.

Restored in 1995"

And thanks all for the comments.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Susan Farmer wrote:
> ... at the end of 
> 15th century when the original triptych was made rectangular, with the 
> almost complete abolition of divisions between panels.

and

> Restored in 1995"

That means at least two occasions on which parts were repainted, 
possibly significantly. That means things like, say, the shape of a 
silhouette are VERY suspect, because these things may change as someone 
repaints a background or redefines a figure.

Although one would *hope* that a modern restorer would know the 
difference between a man and a woman in a formulaic scene like this, it 
is not inconceivable that the strangely feminine shape of the young 
Magus's torso is a result of the restorer's brush.

--Robin
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] material for Russian coat in England
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 17:52:53 -0800
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If the lady lives near London the answer is BOROVIC Street and Borovic
Fabrics.  This is in the theater district or close to it.  I was there years
ago (I know for a fact it is still there) and a new show was opening in a
couple of months.  I was behind the set and costume people.  They were
ordering in the 100's of yards of various fabrics.  When I got served I felt
strange asking for 3 yards of this gorgeous white and gold quilted brocade.
The clerks didn't even blink.  They also directed me towards the back where
the Harris Tweed was kept (no, not what you are likely to want for a Russian
coat).  The storefront was about 15' wide but went all the way to the center
of the block and up four floors.  All filled with fabrics of every type.
Most of the street, which is really an alley with delusions of grandeur -
you can only walk down it during the day - is made up of shops with the same
sort of merchandise.  They cater to the theater, but will never pass up a
pound note if it's to be had!
>From a Blog on wedding dresses:
"MrsHays2B, my fabric is from Borovic Fabrics (I think that's what they are
called!) They are based in Berwick Street, Soho. (Just off Oxford Street)
There are LOADS of fabric and silk shops on that street, also lots of
accessories shops in the area too - we got the beads for my Tiara from a
bead shop a couple of streets away. They are stunning! Well worth a day-trip
into London, even if you are just after ideas."

Evidently the Beatles (there are people on this list that still remember the
Beatles, aren't there? (whimper, feeling OLD today) got the silk that most
of their wildest costumes were made from there as well.

Looking for Wool in England seems like coals to Newcastle, but there you are
:-)

Regina




> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:17 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] material for Russian coat
>
>
> Cassandra Greer wrote:
> >  Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few online
> > fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the
> > appropriate type of material even at this time of year?
> >
> >
>

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Well, they sure look like the 3 kings to me.  They've taken off their 
crowns (see them either in hand or on the ground) and there are little 
fancy boxes that could hold frankincesne & myrhh.  Now, who the lady in 
orange & blue is?  I dunno.

Mary Piero Carey
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Has she looked online? One source for starters:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_items.aspx?TypID=5&Viewby=Types&Pa
ge=1

http://tinyurl.com/kzdc6

Sorry, I don't know of any stores in England but I vaguely remember
something about a store in Edinburgh (sp?) Scot. and that there is wool
fabric sold in most Scottish fabric retailers year round. This is a vague
memory, possibly flawed memory or dated.

De

-----Original Message-----
Yes it has been like years but a friend of mine needs help that only
clothaholics can provide. She would like to make the following coat for a
play and still actually be able to use afterwards. She lives in England and
is relatively clueless about where to find winter fabrics now that it is
almost spring. Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few online
fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the
appropriate type of material even at this time of year?

 Thanks in advance!

 Cass (clothaholic and costumer on ice until the kids are in school and
the hubby has a better job...) 

 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
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In a message dated 3/11/2008 11:07:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

A larger  picture helps a wee  bit.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4e/Don_Lorenzo_Monaco_001.jp
g



********************
 
Yes it does. The only woman in this painting is Mary. 
 
And I love the Lego castle at the top right. And, oh look!...there are the  
shepherds being told of the event by an angel on the upper  left.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: saint/iconography question
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In a message dated 3/12/2008 8:03:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

> Restored in 1995"


Interesting!
 





We here, so interested in accuracy and history, may tend to forget  attitudes 
towards paintings like this and others, in the past. The fact that we  can 
all read and write takes away a lot of the utilitarian function such works  had 
originally. Of course those in the past though the painting pleasant and  
lovely enough to restore and reshape so that it could remain useful and on view.  
But long past restorations hardly seem interested in accuracy or the original  
concepts and wishes of the artist.
 
I don't mean this as a negative criticism, just a very interesting  
observation. Everyone, living in the thick of his or her time period is not  
responsible for future attitudes so can be cut much slack. I mean, hey, we tore  down 
Penn. Station!...so the monks cut a door through "The Last Supper".
 
It sometime works the other way. Remember when they were restoring the  
Sistine Chapel ceiling? Some art scholars were whining and decrying how removing  
the layers of varnish was removing subtle color effects Michelangelo had 
labored  over. I thought: "Good grief! The ceiling's what? 40 feet in the air. It's 
not  like you can get close to it. Why would Michelangelo paint subtle 
anything? As  the bright colors and scene-painting techniques were revealed, it all 
made so  much more sense than "subtle color effect". More like centuries of 
smoke and  soot from candle and lamp lights.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] material for Russian coat in England
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At 01:52 13/03/2008, you wrote:
>If the lady lives near London the answer is BOROVIC Street and Borovic
>Fabrics.  This is in the theater district or close to it.

The shop is called Borovick's, and it is in Berwick street. It is 
just off Oxford Street, not in the theatre district. I is no longer 
quite as big as Wanda thinks, and really doesn't have a great 
selection of wool. There are many specialist fabric shops in Berwick 
Street, one which simply sells cotton and linen fabrics, (good for 
Regency), and one which sells fabric for men's wear in particular, 
suitings, coatings and so on, called something I cannot remember at 
this hour of the morning. Ha, remembered - "Textile King".

As I don't know what a "Russian coat" actually is, I cannot recommend 
specific fabric shops, but Abimelech Hainsworth 
http://www.abimelech.co.uk/ has the best selection of wools in 
England in my opinion. They are expensive, but many of them can be 
left with raw edges when making Regency coats for men, just as the 
originals were.

Otherwise I suggest using my Links page for information on suppliers. 
http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php

Suzi 

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Regina wrote:
>Evidently the Beatles (there are people on this list that still remember the
>Beatles, aren't there? (whimper, feeling OLD today) got the silk that most
>of their wildest costumes were made from there as well.

Well, clearly they are not entirely forgotten :-) "American Idol" had 
the competitors singing Beatles' songs the other night. Of course 
they were in a variety of styles, none like the originals. I don't 
watch that show, but was switching around during commercials and 
heard a few minutes.

I don't have cable, so the only "reality" show i actually watch is 
"America's Next Top Model" (it's my "guilty pleasure" confession). 
Every once in a while there are some interesting garments or make-up. 
Last night, in one segment, they were wearing garments and 
accessories made of raw beef for a photo shoot in the huge 
refrigerator of a large commercial butcher. This part of the episode 
wasn't about the clothing but about modelling well in taxing 
situations. There was also a fashion show of incredibly boring stuff 
by some dull designer.

Lilinah
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 21:02:52 +0100
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Dear all,
I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again.=20
This is because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the =
danish courtdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late =
period 1614).
I am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned the =
place back then.
On monday ill make a good scan of the portraits for you to see, i am =
sure that i am going to need a lot of help from you experts, its manny =
years ago i made renaissance, and my knolledge about theperiod is very =
limited.
The female costume is as far as i can see, without any farthingale, and =
quite simple, with long narrow sleaves in black, bodice black, and =
overskirt black. The only collour is the underskirt wich is red and =
black with gold lace on it. The collar is a standing one, with a lace in =
the edge.
The mans portrait is rather dark and its difficult to see clearly but i =
suppose its trunkhoses doublet and a cloak with a small ruff round the =
neck, both persons have white cuffs edged with lace. The female has a =
coiff embroidered with pearls and edged with lace.
So you are going to have me here for a while, i am looking forwards to =
all the help i can get from you...........

Manny greetings

Bjarne in Denmark. 
_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance costume
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On Saturday 15 March 2008, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Dear all,
> I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again.
> This is because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the
> danish courtdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late period
> 1614). I am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned
> the place back then.
[snip]

That's great, Bjarne!  Thanks for the confidence you have in us.  It's good to 
have you back--for whatever reason!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Hooray! - Welcome back, Bjarne. I'm looking forward to seeing progress =
reports.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Sat 3/15/2008 4:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance costume



Dear all,
I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again.
This is because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the =
danish courtdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late =
period 1614).
I am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned the =
place back then.
On monday ill make a good scan of the portraits for you to see, i am =
sure that i am going to need a lot of help from you experts, its manny =
years ago i made renaissance, and my knolledge about theperiod is very =
limited.
The female costume is as far as i can see, without any farthingale, and =
quite simple, with long narrow sleaves in black, bodice black, and =
overskirt black. The only collour is the underskirt wich is red and =
black with gold lace on it. The collar is a standing one, with a lace in =
the edge.
The mans portrait is rather dark and its difficult to see clearly but i =
suppose its trunkhoses doublet and a cloak with a small ruff round the =
neck, both persons have white cuffs edged with lace. The female has a =
coiff embroidered with pearls and edged with lace.
So you are going to have me here for a while, i am looking forwards to =
all the help i can get from you...........

Manny greetings

Bjarne in Denmark.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20080315200255.UXLW25567.fep40.mail.dk@your4dacd0ea75>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance costume
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 23:18:34 -0400
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I'm happy to see that you will be sharing this next exciting project with 
us.  You are such an inspiritation to the rest of us, juggling a day job 
with your heartoccupation! May our goodwishes energize you toward another 
spectacular  presentation.

Kathleen (still spending joy time on the wardrobe of Queen maud)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 4:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance costume


Dear all,
I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again.
This is because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the 
danish courtdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late period 
1614).
I am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned the place 
back then.
On monday ill make a good scan of the portraits for you to see, i am sure 
that i am going to need a lot of help from you experts, its manny years ago 
i made renaissance, and my knolledge about theperiod is very limited.
The female costume is as far as i can see, without any farthingale, and 
quite simple, with long narrow sleaves in black, bodice black, and overskirt 
black. The only collour is the underskirt wich is red and black with gold 
lace on it. The collar is a standing one, with a lace in the edge.
The mans portrait is rather dark and its difficult to see clearly but i 
suppose its trunkhoses doublet and a cloak with a small ruff round the neck, 
both persons have white cuffs edged with lace. The female has a coiff 
embroidered with pearls and edged with lace.
So you are going to have me here for a while, i am looking forwards to all 
the help i can get from you...........

Manny greetings

Bjarne in Denmark.
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 26 membership available
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Hello!

I talked to my friend in Chicago yesterday and she told me that her 
membership for CC26 is still available! She just wants to get $60 back!

Contact me off lists.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Renaissance costume
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 06:06:58 -0700
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This is just preceding the period I did for the Phoenix Art Museum...I can'=
t wait to see the portraits.  Because everyone is wearing black, the devil =
is in the details. =20
=20
Though it is difficult to see in most pictures, the black fabrics often wer=
e tone on tone damasks.  It was challenging to find something nice but reas=
onably priced.
=20
Will you make the lace you think?
Sg



> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Sat, 15 Mar=
 2008 21:02:52 +0100> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance costume> > Dear a=
ll,> I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again. > This is =
because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the danish cour=
tdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late period 1614).> I =
am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned the place =
back then.> On monday ill make a good scan of the portraits for you to see,=
 i am sure that i am going to need a lot of help from you experts, its mann=
y years ago i made renaissance, and my knolledge about theperiod is very li=
mited.> The female costume is as far as i can see, without any farthingale,=
 and quite simple, with long narrow sleaves in black, bodice black, and ove=
rskirt black. The only collour is the underskirt wich is red and black with=
 gold lace on it. The collar is a standing one, with a lace in the edge.> T=
he mans portrait is rather dark and its difficult to see clearly but i supp=
ose its trunkhoses doublet and a cloak with a small ruff round the neck, bo=
th persons have white cuffs edged with lace. The female has a coiff embroid=
ered with pearls and edged with lace.> So you are going to have me here for=
 a while, i am looking forwards to all the help i can get from you.........=
..> > Manny greetings> > Bjarne in Denmark. > _____________________________=
__________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http:=
//mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
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Hi,

do any one of you know any corset supplies (busks, bones etc.) manufacturers, in America or Europe? I was wondering about buying the corset components directly from the manufacturer, but as I am just a beginner in the fashion industry, I don't really know where to search.

Thanks for any help,

Zuzana
       
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Corset Supplies:
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Good afternoon, I know a great resource for corset supplies and ready 
made corsets, it is a corsetiere company and boutique located in 
Philadelphia, only minutes from where I live called Delicious Corsets. 
They have a website where you can find anything needed for making 
corsets from grommets and material to wood boning for early corset 
models, spoon busks, and patterns.
It is the company I always do business with for any corsetting 
projects, they are pleasant to do business with and very helpful and if 
you live near them (which I doubt) they will place orders over the net 
or phone and allow you to come pick them up in person at the shop.
The web address is: www.corsetmaking.com.
Hope this helps and take care:)
Regards,
Justine.

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>Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 13:07:39 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>From: Ian Stevens <ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com>
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>Subject: special offers on new and forthcoming titles in Medieval Studies
>  from DBBC
>
>Dear Joan Jurancich,
>
>We are promoting a number of new and forthcoming titles in Medieval 
>Studies on a couple of new leaflets.
>
>The first focuses on Viking studies as several of our partner 
>publishers have announced interesting new titles and we have 
>recently started handling books from Roskilde's Viking Ship Museum. 
>This leaflet can be accessed by following this link:
>
>http://www.oxbowbooks.com/pdfs/leaflets/Vikings.pdf
>
>
>The second leaflet draws together information on new, recent and 
>forthcoming titles on Medieval Art and Illumnated Manuscripts. 
>Included are books from Brepols/Harvey Miller, Peeters, Hirmer, 
>Reichert and Australia's Macmillan Art Publishing. To view this 
>leaflet, follow this link:
>
>http://www.oxbowbooks.com/pdfs/leaflets/MedArtMS.pdf
>
>
>Both leaflets contain offer prices and the offers are good through 
>May 15th (Vikings) or April 30th (Medieval Art and Manuscripts). 
>Simply quote the reference code for each leaflet when ordering to 
>secure the offer price.
>
>I hope you enjoy the selections and we will look forward to dealing 
>with your orders.
>
>With regards,
>
>Ian Stevens
>The David Brown Book Company
>Tel: 1-800-791-9354

I thought that members of this list might be interested in these new 
book leaflets.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
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Farthingale in Canada and in Los Angeles, CA sell all the metal used for
costuming from bones to busks to hoop wire. She carries a million things you
didn't even know you wanted. In the US, reach her at
http://www.farthingalesla.com/

LynnD

On 3/17/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> do any one of you know any corset supplies (busks, bones etc.)
> manufacturers, in America or Europe? I was wondering about buying the corset
> components directly from the manufacturer, but as I am just a beginner in
> the fashion industry, I don't really know where to search.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Zuzana
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?  Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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On Monday 17 March 2008, Joan Jurancich wrote:

>
> I thought that members of this list might be interested in these new
> book leaflets.

And so at least some of us are... though I too get e-mails from DBBC advising 
me of their sales events; I wonder why I didn't get these.

Anyway, thanks!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Subject: [h-cost] DBBC; neat info on fabric stabilizers
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Go on the website and get on their mailing list if you want hard copy. I
believe you can also view the flyers online.

I went looking for info on fabric stabilizers today and bumped into a
really cool site which matches stabilizers to fabric. Check it out:

http://www.emlibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=PR1153

Arlys

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 21:01:13 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
<cathy@thyrsus.com> writes:
> On Monday 17 March 2008, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> 
> >
> > I thought that members of this list might be interested in these 
> new
> > book leaflets.
> 
> And so at least some of us are... though I too get e-mails from DBBC 
> advising 
> me of their sales events; I wonder why I didn't get these.
> 
> Anyway, thanks!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 13:00:57 +0100
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Hello,
Thankyou all for the nice welcome back to the list. You are all very =
kind. I feel that here on this list, i have manny renaissance experts so =
this is why i joined again to get help with the costumes i am going to =
make.
I have some questions for you, but i dont have time right now, ill have =
to get back later today, but i have uploaded the pictures of the =
portraits here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
The pictures are in a very poor condition, its not due to a bad =
photograph, but because the portraits simply needs a restauration. As i =
cant go to the museum right now (its in the other side of the country) i =
have to stick to these photos from a book.
I am looking forwards to any comments on this, and i thank you all in =
advance for your gennerous help.

Bjarne
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes
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Dear Bjarne
  If you need a live model to put the dress on, I volounteer ;-)
   
  Tania (Denmark)

Leif og Bjarne Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hello,
Thankyou all for the nice welcome back to the list. You are all very kind. I feel that here on this list, i have manny renaissance experts so this is why i joined again to get help with the costumes i am going to make.
I have some questions for you, but i dont have time right now, ill have to get back later today, but i have uploaded the pictures of the portraits here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
The pictures are in a very poor condition, its not due to a bad photograph, but because the portraits simply needs a restauration. As i cant go to the museum right now (its in the other side of the country) i have to stick to these photos from a book.
I am looking forwards to any comments on this, and i thank you all in advance for your gennerous help.

Bjarne
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
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Thanks for all the help, but I already know all companies like this, I must say that these two mentioned really are wonderful.
Nevertheless, this is not what I am looking for, I probably didn't express myself very clearly...:-) I would like to find the companies that manufacture all these things, that means, I'd like to find a place where all these retail stores take their goods from. A quite hard-to-find information, I admit, that no one wants to tell you. Many of the bones etc. are made somewhere in Germany, but God knows where. I've only found this company, which I regard to be quite a success:

www.luettges.com

But they make just steel bones and spiral steel (but the spiral is quite expensive), and plastic bones - these not useful rigilene things. But the bones look quite good (about 0,6 euro/m - 8mm bones). 

I know busks and maybe spiral steel must be made somewhere else in Germany. And the goods from VenaCava are maybe from America, but I am not sure. 

I think that if you want to go into some business in costume making, it really is good to take all the things most directly as possible. But it might be also useful for anybody who makes costumes, as making a hoop skirt requires quite a lot of boning and the pice differences are very important.

Thanks if you can find anything,

Zuzana

P.S.: If someone's interested in the company I mentioned, I can send you some prices and minimum orders they told me, just for information:-)

       
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Subject: [h-cost] Armor question
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This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's out of 
my own field.

I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a buckler. 
There is no additional detail. I need to know what that would mean to 
the medieval reader.

So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the round 
metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) from c. 
1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I know that 
shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather than just 
look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel better consulting 
people who work in armor of this period and have a broader sense of the 
available evidence.

Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work (period 
document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an expert who has 
studied these well enough to be considered an authority (e.g. not just 
"this is what works for me when I make them" or "my Laurel says...").

If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on period 
evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query along. I 
will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this list.

Thanks,

Robin

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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:32:53 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
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Hi Zuzana,

it seems like Streifeneder builds all kinds of prothesis - so they 
might make the other things as well:
www.streifeneder.de
Wissner sells all kinds of Lingerie-notions and has the largest 
selection of all kinds of boning and busks.
www.wissner.de
Thaemert seems to be famous for breast-protheses, but he also sells 
spiral and spring steel.
www.thaemert.de

Best wishes,
Hanna


At 18:05 18.03.2008, you wrote:
>Thanks for all the help, but I already know all companies like this, 
>I must say that these two mentioned really are wonderful.
>Nevertheless, this is not what I am looking for, I probably didn't 
>express myself very clearly...:-) I would like to find the companies 
>that manufacture all these things, that means, I'd like to find a 
>place where all these retail stores take their goods from. A quite 
>hard-to-find information, I admit, that no one wants to tell you. 
>Many of the bones etc. are made somewhere in Germany, but God knows 
>where. I've only found this company, which I regard to be quite a success:
>
>www.luettges.com
>
>But they make just steel bones and spiral steel (but the spiral is 
>quite expensive), and plastic bones - these not useful rigilene 
>things. But the bones look quite good (about 0,6 euro/m - 8mm bones).
>
>I know busks and maybe spiral steel must be made somewhere else in 
>Germany. And the goods from VenaCava are maybe from America, but I 
>am not sure.
>
>I think that if you want to go into some business in costume making, 
>it really is good to take all the things most directly as possible. 
>But it might be also useful for anybody who makes costumes, as 
>making a hoop skirt requires quite a lot of boning and the pice 
>differences are very important.
>
>Thanks if you can find anything,
>
>Zuzana
>
>P.S.: If someone's interested in the company I mentioned, I can send 
>you some prices and minimum orders they told me, just for information:-)
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Looking for last minute shopping deals?  Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm

I see that the coif is not edged with lace, is it a linnen coif she has =
under the black pearl embroidered coif, wich shows in the front?
Would this dress have the bodice sewed on to the skirt? Or is it =
seperate?
Would the neck cut of the bodice be the same as the white collar? So =
that the white collar is resting on a black collar wich belongs to the =
bodice?
Do you think the bodice has epaulettes on the armscyes?
How is the bodice closed in the front, should i make black fabric =
covered buttons?
Does the sleaves also have buttons at the wrist?
I am not going to make the costume compleately with original underwear, =
only just make the costume, so that it looks like the portrait.
Do you think i need to make a corset to get the right shape?=20
Is it enough support for the skirts just to make a small bumroll?

These are my first questions for you, the male costume is comming later, =
they want me to start with the female costume.

Bjarne 
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The german company you would like to know would be Wiessner.
http://www.wissner.de/

I use their plastic bones, and they are very nice for corsets. I mostly make 
18th century stays.
Their minimum order is 200 meter.
A very happy costumer

Bjarne



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Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:31:33 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
In-Reply-To: <47E00611.6020303@netherton.net>
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At 18:12 18/03/2008, you wrote:
>This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's 
>out of my own field.
>
>I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
>brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a 
>buckler. There is no additional detail. I need to know what that 
>would mean to the medieval reader.
>
>So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the 
>round metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) 
>from c. 1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I 
>know that shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather 
>than just look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel 
>better consulting people who work in armor of this period and have a 
>broader sense of the available evidence.
>
>Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work 
>(period document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an 
>expert who has studied these well enough to be considered an 
>authority (e.g. not just "this is what works for me when I make 
>them" or "my Laurel says...").
>
>If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list 
>or board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on 
>period evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this 
>query along. I will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or 
>to this list.


http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/forums/index.php?sid=015d50138313ab0602c50d078cae20b3

Introduce yourself, i.e. , join, log in, and then ask your question. 
You will get a lot of answers, hopefully not to silly - the forum 
does not always take itself or its members seriously.

Suzi 

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Bjarne, because we can't see the details you can see it is hard to answer s=
ome of these questions.  Have you found any other examples of similar costu=
mes?
=20
The men's seems pretty straight forward Late or Post Elizabethan - I have s=
een lots of pictures similar.
But the woman's is rather unique ..... that would be the one where more exa=
mples will be helpful.
=20
I will poke around on Bildindex to see if I can find anything else....
=20
Sg



> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Tue, 18 Mar=
 2008 20:57:24 +0100> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes> =
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm> > I see that the coif is not edge=
d with lace, is it a linnen coif she has under the black pearl embroidered =
coif, wich shows in the front?> Would this dress have the bodice sewed on t=
o the skirt? Or is it seperate?> Would the neck cut of the bodice be the sa=
me as the white collar? So that the white collar is resting on a black coll=
ar wich belongs to the bodice?> Do you think the bodice has epaulettes on t=
he armscyes?> How is the bodice closed in the front, should i make black fa=
bric covered buttons?> Does the sleaves also have buttons at the wrist?> I =
am not going to make the costume compleately with original underwear, only =
just make the costume, so that it looks like the portrait.> Do you think i =
need to make a corset to get the right shape? > Is it enough support for th=
e skirts just to make a small bumroll?> > These are my first questions for =
you, the male costume is comming later, they want me to start with the fema=
le costume.> > Bjarne > _______________________________________________> h-=
costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailm=
an/listinfo/h-costume=
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Robin,
I forwarded your message to my husband (Jeb/Donal) who is on the Armor  
Archive list.  Someone there is sure to have information that could help  you.  
 
Catherine  
 
In a message dated 3/18/2008 2:17:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

If  anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
board  that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on period  
evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query along. I  
will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this  list.

Thanks,

Robin







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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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At 01:12 PM 3/18/2008, you wrote:
>So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the 
>round metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) 
>from c. 1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I 
>know that shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather 
>than just look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel 
>better consulting people who work in armor of this period and have a 
>broader sense of the available evidence.
>
>Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work 
>(period document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an 
>expert who has studied these well enough to be considered an 
>authority (e.g. not just "this is what works for me when I make 
>them" or "my Laurel says...").


I have no proof, but from the pictures I've seen, and the shield boss 
I use, I would say it's just larger than the man's fist with a gauntlet on.

Sorry, not very definite, but you don't want one bigger because the 
shield slips around too much.

Good luck
Genie 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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Robin,

I can't provide measurements, but I can point you to a document on-line 
with graphic representation of a buckler "Anonymous Fechtbuch: 
Manuscript  I.33" 13th century German Sword & Buckler Manual. Here is 
the link.
http://www.thearma.org/Manuals/i33/i33.htm

Based on this artwork, the buckler varied in size quite a bit, so I'm 
not sure you'll get a definitive answer.

Connie

Robin Netherton wrote:
> This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's out 
> of my own field.
>
> I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
> brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a buckler. 
> There is no additional detail. I need to know what that would mean to 
> the medieval reader.
>
> So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the round 
> metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) from c. 
> 1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I know that 
> shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather than just 
> look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel better 
> consulting people who work in armor of this period and have a broader 
> sense of the available evidence.
>
> Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work 
> (period document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an expert 
> who has studied these well enough to be considered an authority (e.g. 
> not just "this is what works for me when I make them" or "my Laurel 
> says...").
>
> If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
> board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on 
> period evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query 
> along. I will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this 
> list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes
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My two cents...
I would guess linen coif under the decorated one.  I believe it was
typical to do so.
I think this is a separate skirt and bodice.  There is just a hint of
the tabs at the bottom of the bodice that usually indicates separates
(sleeves or skirts), which is reinforced by the way the skirt opens to
show the underskirt.
The neck line/collar reminds me of some late Elizabethan open
bodice/doublet styles that I've seen in QEWU.  I'll look again tonight
to see if I can pull examples.
I think I can see little tabs/epaulettes at the armscyes.  They don't
look like much more than a inch or two of a wide ribbon folded in half
and sewn done... at least that's how I've gotten that look before.
I don't know that I've seen buttons on a woman's bodice.  It always
seems to be lacing in the back opening or hook and eyes set into the
seams for a front opening.  If there were a separate bodice it could
go either way, but with the way the top opens I'd make it front
opening.
I haven't seen buttons at the sleeves cuff, during this period.
If this is going to be worn by a manikin than I would either make the
corset for the shaping, or bone the bodice so it holds the shape.  I
know that my gowns that I put on a modern manikin or sewing form,
don't look right without the corset.
if the skirt is heavy enough the bum roll may be enough since these
skirts don't spread really wide.

alex
for what it's worth...

On Tue, Mar 18, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm
>
>  I see that the coif is not edged with lace, is it a linnen coif she has under the black pearl embroidered coif, wich shows in the front?
>  Would this dress have the bodice sewed on to the skirt? Or is it seperate?
>  Would the neck cut of the bodice be the same as the white collar? So that the white collar is resting on a black collar wich belongs to the bodice?
>  Do you think the bodice has epaulettes on the armscyes?
>  How is the bodice closed in the front, should i make black fabric covered buttons?
>  Does the sleaves also have buttons at the wrist?
>  I am not going to make the costume compleately with original underwear, only just make the costume, so that it looks like the portrait.
>  Do you think i need to make a corset to get the right shape?
>  Is it enough support for the skirts just to make a small bumroll?
>
>  These are my first questions for you, the male costume is comming later, they want me to start with the female costume.
>
>  Bjarne
>  _______________________________________________
>


-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
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Most retailers and wholesalers I'm aware of get their corset supplies from  a 
manufacturing company in Germany - they have a website that I have 
bookmarked,  but obviously (cos I'm looking for it)  I can't find it right  now.
 
May come up on a web search though.
 
Other than that the retailers I'd recommend are Farthingales in Canada and  
Vena Cava Designs in the UK.
 
 
Debbie
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 18/03/2008 18:03:02 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hi,

do any one of you know any corset supplies (busks, bones  etc.) 
manufacturers, in America or Europe? I was wondering about buying the  corset components 
directly from the manufacturer, but as I am just a beginner  in the fashion 
industry, I don't really know where to search.

Thanks  for any help,

Zuzana


 



   
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In a message dated 3/18/2008 1:03:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes: 
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 16:10:56 -0700
> From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>     <8296995c0803171610m500a4332oca9f109014b14e5@mail.gmail.com>
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> 
> Farthingale in Canada and in Los Angeles, CA sell all the metal used for
> costuming from bones to busks to hoop wire. She carries a million things you
> didn't even know you wanted. In the US, reach her at
> http://www.farthingalesla.com/

Lisa's stuff rocks, in my opinion. I have meet her at many Costume-Cons and 
she is easy to work with.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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I agree with Alex, definitely a corset if on a human, if on an appropriate =
manikin, just boning.  What kind of manikin will you use? Our fashion depar=
tment at Phoenix art Museum has all these expensive Kyoto dummies, but none=
 with any proper shape probably prior to the late 17 hundreds. =20
=20
I didn't realize until now that the skirt does stand away from the waist so=
mewhat.  At first glance it looked like it was hanging straight down, almos=
t like a closely fitting "loose gown."  I think I see the skirt away from t=
he bodice now....Yes definitely a "French Farthingale,"  easy to make.  No =
drum etc.
=20
The head piece.  Does the lace stick straight up without apparent support, =
or is there another piece in black (sort of like the Anne of Cleves headdre=
ss) behind it that I can't see?
=20
Sg
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20



> Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:01:47 -0500> From: garbaholic@gmail.com> To: h-=
costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes> CC: >=
 > My two cents...> I would guess linen coif under the decorated one. I bel=
ieve it was> typical to do so.> I think this is a separate skirt and bodice=
. There is just a hint of> the tabs at the bottom of the bodice that usuall=
y indicates separates> (sleeves or skirts), which is reinforced by the way =
the skirt opens to> show the underskirt.> The neck line/collar reminds me o=
f some late Elizabethan open> bodice/doublet styles that I've seen in QEWU.=
 I'll look again tonight> to see if I can pull examples.> I think I can see=
 little tabs/epaulettes at the armscyes. They don't> look like much more th=
an a inch or two of a wide ribbon folded in half> and sewn done... at least=
 that's how I've gotten that look before.> I don't know that I've seen butt=
ons on a woman's bodice. It always> seems to be lacing in the back opening =
or hook and eyes set into the> seams for a front opening. If there were a s=
eparate bodice it could> go either way, but with the way the top opens I'd =
make it front> opening.> I haven't seen buttons at the sleeves cuff, during=
 this period.> If this is going to be worn by a manikin than I would either=
 make the> corset for the shaping, or bone the bodice so it holds the shape=
. I> know that my gowns that I put on a modern manikin or sewing form,> don=
't look right without the corset.> if the skirt is heavy enough the bum rol=
l may be enough since these> skirts don't spread really wide.> > alex> for =
what it's worth...> > On Tue, Mar 18, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews=
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:> > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.ht=
m> >> > I see that the coif is not edged with lace, is it a linnen coif she=
 has under the black pearl embroidered coif, wich shows in the front?> > Wo=
uld this dress have the bodice sewed on to the skirt? Or is it seperate?> >=
 Would the neck cut of the bodice be the same as the white collar? So that =
the white collar is resting on a black collar wich belongs to the bodice?> =
> Do you think the bodice has epaulettes on the armscyes?> > How is the bod=
ice closed in the front, should i make black fabric covered buttons?> > Doe=
s the sleaves also have buttons at the wrist?> > I am not going to make the=
 costume compleately with original underwear, only just make the costume, s=
o that it looks like the portrait.> > Do you think i need to make a corset =
to get the right shape?> > Is it enough support for the skirts just to make=
 a small bumroll?> >> > These are my first questions for you, the male cost=
ume is comming later, they want me to start with the female costume.> >> > =
Bjarne> > _______________________________________________> >> > > -- > "I'm=
 buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you> know, havin=
g to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,> injury, mosquito=
 infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's> Friday..." ;)> _________=
______________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@m=
ail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's out 
> of my own field.
>
> I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
> brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a buckler. 
> There is no additional detail. I need to know what that would mean to 
> the medieval reader.
>
> So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the round 
> metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) from c. 
> 1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I know that 
> shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather than just 
> look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel better 
> consulting people who work in armor of this period and have a broader 
> sense of the available evidence.
>
> Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work 
> (period document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an expert 
> who has studied these well enough to be considered an authority (e.g. 
> not just "this is what works for me when I make them" or "my Laurel 
> says...").
>
> If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
> board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on 
> period evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query 
> along. I will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this 
> list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
I'd second all the answers you've had - ask on LivingHistory, look at 
the Fechtbuch and other fighting manuals.  The key thing is that a 
buckler is more like a piece of armour for the hand than a body-covering 
shield, the idea is that you move it around and block (and sometimes 
punch) with it.  The boss is the domed part that covers your knuckles, 
so fist-sized is the general idea.

Jean

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:22:00 -0500
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This is 1562
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/margaret_audley.JPG 
Duchess of Norfolk
Middle class English women
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/fourladies.JPG

Various portraits 1598 - 1616
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Various_9.htm

The woman's outfit looks to be within this range

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Various_5.htm

which is 1563-1572 but most of these are English.



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Subject: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar
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Hello, all -

I'm making a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, 
at least, relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's 
pattern...).  (It will also have wings, but that's part of the 
fantasy <g>).  I want a large standing collar rather than a ruff, 
similar to the picture here:

<http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg>

Or:
http://tinyurl.com/2yduje

The problem is, I have no idea how to make one, or how it attaches to 
the costume.  Can someone please point me to a book or website that 
might give me some clues?  I need to finish this by tax day (Apr. 15 
for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is giving me fits also.

Many thanks in advance.
Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Armor question
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http://www.hadesign.co.uk/SRS/html/buckler.htm

A boss is two things. It is a metallic center to a shield and a shield
alone. If you can get a copy of Di Grassi's Giacomo DiGrass you may find the
citation you are looking for.
However, the url above has several quotes from this book and other that
roughly describes the size of a boss in the period you are describing.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 1:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Armor question

This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's out of 
my own field.

I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a buckler. 
There is no additional detail. I need to know what that would mean to 
the medieval reader.

So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the round 
metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) from c. 
1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I know that 
shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather than just 
look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel better consulting 
people who work in armor of this period and have a broader sense of the 
available evidence.

Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work (period 
document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an expert who has 
studied these well enough to be considered an authority (e.g. not just 
"this is what works for me when I make them" or "my Laurel says...").

If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on period 
evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query along. I 
will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this list.

Thanks,

Robin

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Thanks to all who responded! One listmember sent me a catalog entry from 
the Museum of Lond, of an extant buckler from the right period. Another 
posted the request to an armorer's forum and got back two more extant 
examples. Problem solved. This is a great list!

--Robin
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar
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At 03:41 19/03/2008, you wrote:
>Hello, all -
>
>I'm making a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, 
>at least, relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's 
>pattern...).  (It will also have wings, but that's part of the 
>fantasy <g>).  I want a large standing collar rather than a ruff, 
>similar to the picture here:
>
><http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg>
>
>Or:
>http://tinyurl.com/2yduje
>
>The problem is, I have no idea how to make one, or how it attaches 
>to the costume.  Can someone please point me to a book or website 
>that might give me some clues?  I need to finish this by tax day 
>(Apr. 15 for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is giving 
>me fits also.


You could try googling for "Supportasse", or you could look in 
"Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by Jean Hunnisett, 
where you will find instructions for the one worn by Glenda Jackson 
in "Elizabeth R.". Or you could try "The Tudor Tailor" by Ninya 
Mikhaila and Jane something-Davies (?) ( - sorry - not enough cups of tea!)


Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar
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Hi,

I hope this will help
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/elizabethan_wired_ruff.html

Deredere

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> Hello, all -
>
> I'm making a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, 
> at least, relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's 
> pattern...).  (It will also have wings, but that's part of the fantasy 
> <g>).  I want a large standing collar rather than a ruff, similar to 
> the picture here:
>
> <http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg>
>
> Or:
> http://tinyurl.com/2yduje
>
> The problem is, I have no idea how to make one, or how it attaches to 
> the costume.  Can someone please point me to a book or website that 
> might give me some clues?  I need to finish this by tax day (Apr. 15 
> for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is giving me fits also.
>
> Many thanks in advance.
> Sandy
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>  -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda 
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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A lot of it depends on the style of dress.  I made one for the Suitable Gow=
n for Her Majesty presentation that worked great.  It just slide into the f=
ront of the rolls created by the outer gown "lapels."  I will look for a pi=
cture and post it.  My websites are just fubar right now and probably will =
be for awhile.
=20
Can you show us a picture of the dress you are making?
=20
Sg
=20
P.S.  I am assuming also that you realize there are two collars/ruffs there=
 right?



> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 07:32:47 +0000> To: h-costume@indra.com> From: suz=
i@suziclarke.co.uk> Subject: Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing =
collar> CC: > > At 03:41 19/03/2008, you wrote:> >Hello, all -> >> >I'm mak=
ing a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, > >at least, =
relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's > >pattern...). (It w=
ill also have wings, but that's part of the > >fantasy <g>). I want a large=
 standing collar rather than a ruff, > >similar to the picture here:> >> ><=
http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg>> >> >=
Or:> >http://tinyurl.com/2yduje> >> >The problem is, I have no idea how to =
make one, or how it attaches > >to the costume. Can someone please point me=
 to a book or website > >that might give me some clues? I need to finish th=
is by tax day > >(Apr. 15 for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress i=
s giving > >me fits also.> > > You could try googling for "Supportasse", or=
 you could look in > "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by Jea=
n Hunnisett, > where you will find instructions for the one worn by Glenda =
Jackson > in "Elizabeth R.". Or you could try "The Tudor Tailor" by Ninya >=
 Mikhaila and Jane something-Davies (?) ( - sorry - not enough cups of tea!=
)> > > Suzi > > _______________________________________________> h-costume =
mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listi=
nfo/h-costume=
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I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this s=
kirt and thought it was a great idea.  I think I had seen a variation on th=
is a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but thi=
s is the first time I've seen it in a catalogue. =20
=20
http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=3DP8276+S
=20
Has anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flounc=
y mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably perma=
nently sewn in.
=20
Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt!  I know I plan on using=
 it for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.
Sg
=20
As one of my favorite historians said:
=20
"If you thought of it, they probably did too."=
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Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 10:56:31 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan,
 Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric weights!
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Status: RO

A sale on linen in three weights.  I thought that list members would 
like to have the opportunity to order.

Joan
(who already has a linen stash 8-))

>To: "Joan" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>From: "Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle" <ask@fabrics-store.com>
>Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 08:11:12 -0400
>Subject: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric weights!
>
>Dear Joan,
>
>Winter is almost officially over and to celebrate the Spring Equinox 
>- we are having an enormous sale!
>
>We are taking all the basic fabric weights:
>Light weight 3.5 ounces/yard 100% linen
>Medium weight 5.3 ounces/yard 100% linen
>Heavy weight 7.1 ounces/yard 100% linen
>
>We are including the utmost necessary fabrics :
>Bleached
>Bleached Softened
>Natural
>Natural Softened
>
>We are cutting them down to easy to order 20 yard bolts and 
>discounting the bolts 10%!
>
>The Natural and Bleached colors never go out of style and the weight 
>diversity allows you to make anything ranging from bed linens for 
>children, to summer suits for both men and women, to slipcovers for your couch.
>
>Hey, with this discount - you can even have linen as your wall paper.
>
>These utmost necessary fabrics, in the basic weights necessary to 
>complete most projects - will be on sale only for this week until 
>Sunday March 23.
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tym&m=1dKkRdW0h7kVyH&b=9_NkqVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0A>Enter 
>here to go directly to the discounted bolts and save 10%!
>
>Thank you and enjoy,
>
>Nikolai Karpushin
>Owner and President,
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tym&m=1dKkRdW0h7kVyH&b=9_NkqVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0A>Fabrics-store.com
>
>P.S. Don't forget that with every purchase, you earn points that can 
>be transferred into dollar credit.
>
>P.P.S. Sign up to receive our Doggie bag alerts and be the first to 
>know when new Doggie bags are posted. These are 1st quality precut 
>pieces of fabric. Since they are precut, you get them at terrific 
>discount. After all, you'd cut them anyway.
>
>P.P.P.S If you know someone who will value this information, feel 
>free to forward them this email.
>
>Terms & Conditions
>Offer cannot be applied to previous or pending purchases.
>
>Creative Work Media, LLC., 6325 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 102, 
>Hollywood, CA 90038, USA
>
>To unsubscribe or change subscriber options visit:
><http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zIycHBwcLA==>http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zIycHBwcLA==
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
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In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy 
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably  
permanently sewn in.


You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the  
same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud, puddles,  
etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing to do  over 
an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an issue of  
practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of the patent  "Dress 
Elevators" in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your skirt, or simply  using 
pins.
 
~Joseph



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
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Dear all,
I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull =
suggestions and comments on my coming projekt.
I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me =
in a folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more =
questions later when i start the projekt.
One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to =
have a close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, =
and ill take my camera with me.
Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, =
then have another important order and you dont have the time to make =
research. I must do this later.

If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet =
a guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed =
dolls 60 cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his =
dolls, and as i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we =
made a swap, he sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one =
of his dolls. I started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much =
longer time than i figured it would, but its also because i am so =
critical in details. I am going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes =
print "Les Adieaux".=20
So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now =
i am embroidering the pannels for the dress.
See more here:=20
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm

Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm

And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front.

Two buisy!

Bjarne
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Hi, Robin:
You may want to ask Stephen of Forth Castle at www.forth-armoury.com. He has done research outside the usual SCA sphere of things. If he doesn't know he also may be able to point you to someone else who may have documentation. I loved your lectures in St. Louis last year.
I am trying to find more Victorian horror-photos of "period" costumes for you.
I wish I had something else to offer.
thanks,
Debra


 
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I'm interested. How much is it by the yard or by the bolt? I need one bolt =
of the light weight linen. Costumes to make for upcoming events. i loved th=
e linen chemise I made last year. Light and kept me cooler than I thought.=
=20
PLEASE let us know how to get in on this deal!!!Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>=
 Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 10:56:31 -0700> To: h-costume@indra.com> From: joan=
mj@surewest.net> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard=
 bolts in different fabric weights!> > A sale on linen in three weights. I =
thought that list members would > like to have the opportunity to order.> >=
 Joan> (who already has a linen stash 8-))> > >To: "Joan" <joanmj@surewest.=
net>> >From: "Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle" <ask@fabrics-store.com>> >Date: =
Wed, 19 Mar 2008 08:11:12 -0400> >Subject: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard bo=
lts in different fabric weights!> >> >Dear Joan,> >> >Winter is almost offi=
cially over and to celebrate the Spring Equinox > >- we are having an enorm=
ous sale!> >> >We are taking all the basic fabric weights:> >Light weight 3=
.5 ounces/yard 100% linen> >Medium weight 5.3 ounces/yard 100% linen> >Heav=
y weight 7.1 ounces/yard 100% linen> >> >We are including the utmost necess=
ary fabrics :> >Bleached> >Bleached Softened> >Natural> >Natural Softened> =
>> >We are cutting them down to easy to order 20 yard bolts and > >discount=
ing the bolts 10%!> >> >The Natural and Bleached colors never go out of sty=
le and the weight > >diversity allows you to make anything ranging from bed=
 linens for > >children, to summer suits for both men and women, to slipcov=
ers for your couch.> >> >Hey, with this discount - you can even have linen =
as your wall paper.> >> >These utmost necessary fabrics, in the basic weigh=
ts necessary to > >complete most projects - will be on sale only for this w=
eek until > >Sunday March 23.> ><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=3DC4tym&m=
=3D1dKkRdW0h7kVyH&b=3D9_NkqVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0A>Enter > >here to go directly t=
o the discounted bolts and save 10%!> >> >Thank you and enjoy,> >> >Nikolai=
 Karpushin> >Owner and President,> ><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=3DC4t=
ym&m=3D1dKkRdW0h7kVyH&b=3D9_NkqVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0A>Fabrics-store.com> >> >P.S=
. Don't forget that with every purchase, you earn points that can > >be tra=
nsferred into dollar credit.> >> >P.P.S. Sign up to receive our Doggie bag =
alerts and be the first to > >know when new Doggie bags are posted. These a=
re 1st quality precut > >pieces of fabric. Since they are precut, you get t=
hem at terrific > >discount. After all, you'd cut them anyway.> >> >P.P.P.S=
 If you know someone who will value this information, feel > >free to forwa=
rd them this email.> >> >Terms & Conditions> >Offer cannot be applied to pr=
evious or pending purchases.> >> >Creative Work Media, LLC., 6325 Santa Mon=
ica Blvd., Suite 102, > >Hollywood, CA 90038, USA> >> >To unsubscribe or ch=
ange subscriber options visit:> ><http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjC=
ycjCxstEa0zIycHBwcLA=3D=3D>http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxst=
Ea0zIycHBwcLA=3D=3D> _______________________________________________> h-cos=
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listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120=
08=
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Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and waistcoat=
.Sg=
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Status: RO

Just click on the link ( I snipped the original email to make it 
easier to find).  You can go to Fabric.com and subscribe to their 
email announcements to get them directly.

At 01:11 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:

>I'm interested. How much is it by the yard or by the bolt? I need 
>one bolt of the light weight linen. Costumes to make for upcoming 
>events. i loved the linen chemise I made last year. Light and kept 
>me cooler than I thought.
>PLEASE let us know how to get in on this deal!!!Sincerely, Rebecca 
>Rautine[snip]>Hey, with this discount - you can even have linen as 
>your wall paper.> >> >These utmost necessary fabrics, in the basic 
>weights necessary to > >complete most projects - will be on sale 
>only for this week until > >Sunday March 
>23.> ><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tym&m=1dKkRdW0h7kVyH&b=9_Nk 
>qVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0A>Enter > >here to go directly to the discounted 
>bolts and save 10%!>

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and waistcoat.

The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have one 
myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there, in the 
$100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on fabrics for it....



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan,
	Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric wei...
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Actually, it's Fabrics-store.com.  I'm on their list, too.   Just ordered my 
first fabric from them in January.  They also will send  swatches (for free!). 
   
 
Catherine   
 
In a message dated 3/19/2008 4:36:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

Just  click on the link ( I snipped the original email to make it 
easier to  find).  You can go to Fabric.com and subscribe to their 
email  announcements to get them directly.







**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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 >I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this=
 skirt and thought it was a great idea. I >think I had seen a variation on =
this a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but t=
his is the >first time I've seen it in a catalogue. >http://www.pyramidcoll=
ection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=3DP8276+S>Has anyone ever come across this look =
in any period in history? The flouncy mode reminds me of some southern bell=
e >look, but those are probably permanently sewn in.>Great idea for keeping=
 your skirts out of the dirt! I know I plan on using it for my less than hi=
storically accurate stuff >with the SCA.>Sg
=20
Mid-19th century: to raise the skirt slightly to show a fancy overpetticoat=
 or to provide ease in walking or sports such as croquet.
=20
Regards,
Kelly=20
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/=
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Suzi said:
>You could try googling for "Supportasse", ...

...or, in Dutch, "portefraise".  There are two extant wire frames in
museum collections; I've written about them on this list previously.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:20:46 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
In-reply-to: <cd9.28037016.3512b959@aol.com>
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>From the back it reminds me of a Robe a la Polinaise C. 1700s. Or a Roman
shade. :-)

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of MaisondeHadley@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 2:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?



In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
flouncy
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
permanently sewn in.


You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the
same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud,
puddles,
etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing to do
over
an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an issue of
practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of the patent
"Dress
Elevators" in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your skirt, or simply
using
pins.

~Joseph



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
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Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:01:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: corset supplies manufacturers
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Many, many thanks!

I'd say Wissner looks like the company everyone buys goods from...just a shame they don't sell less than 200 meters, but well, I could perhaps handle that somehow....:-)

As someone was interested in the Luettges company's prices, here is what they wrote to me, with some necessary translations, I hope you'll see them in red:

DESIRA-Metall-Federn,  endlos               €/Meter            Flat  steel
      6x0,6mm         Art.-Nr. 2600 005           0,7425
  8x0,4mm         Art.-Nr. 2150 005           0,6263
11x0,5mm         Art.-Nr. 2250 005           0,8303 

  Mindestbestellmenge: 1  Ring = 25m je Abmessung.       Minimal amount  25m 

 Spiralfedern,  endlos
    7x0,75mm       Art.-Nr. 3320 000           1,56 €/m           Spiral  steel

Mindestbestellmenge:  1 Ring = ca. 40-60  Meter Lauflänge.          Minimal amount  40-60m
 7mm Metallkappen         Art. 7004 000    2,916 €/100 Stück         Metal caps, min.100pcs,  2,916 €/100pcs
  Mindestabnahmemenge:  100 Stück. 

 Am Meisten verkaufen  wir für Reifröcke unsere DESIRA-Metall-Federn 6x0,60mm.             For hoopskirts the size  6x0,60mm of flat steels is best.
 Sollten Sie breiteres  Material benötigten, so können wir die Abmessung 11x0,50mm  empfehlen.               if wider bone  necessary, 11x0,50mm is good.
   Unsere  Konditionen lauten wie folgt:
     Lieferzeit: ca. 1 Woche  nach Zahlungseingang.
Zahlung:   Vorauskasse
Lieferung: ab Werk,  zuzüglich Verpackung.
Mindestbestellwert:  77,00 Euro Nettowarenwert.             minimal  Total 

  Person to contact: Engels - Sabine  [sabine.engels@luettges.com]
Minimal amount of pre-cut flat  steels is 100pcs.
Hope it's useful,

Zuzana






       
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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 00:19:59 +0100
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Hi,
Before i got this doll i have now, i searched and considered these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-2-Part-OBITSU-Body-60-cm-white-Tone-Dollfie_W0QQitemZ270214881051QQihZ017QQcategoryZ84635QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My dolls head is a fairy, with a pointed nose, big eyes, it has wings to 
attach in the back. Got 2 wigs with it.
But i think these on ebay looks good two, most important thing with these is 
the body, its a dream to make for this size of doll, and also that it can 
move every body part is good. I have the feeling i am going quite chrazy 
with this doll clothing thing, have a lot of ideas that i want to make 
trough.........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.


> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>> Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and 
>> waistcoat.
>
> The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have one 
> myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there, in the 
> $100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on fabrics for 
> it....
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Baltimore Area Costume Event
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Dear List Members:
Those of you in the Mid-Atlantic region of the US may be interested in this=20=
=20
event.
=20
Ann Wass
=20
=20
A DAY AT MOUNT CLARE MUSEUM HOUSE
Carroll Park, 1500 Washington Blvd.,  Baltimore MD 21230
Saturday, April 19
10:00 am - 3:30 pm=20
Spend  the morning viewing the exhibit in the museum house:
"It=E2=80=99s In the Details:  Quality in Fashion-Clothing from the Carrolls=
 to the=20
Dames  (1760-1917)"

Then adjourn to the carriage house for a box lunch and an afternoon of =20
illustrated talks and workshops:
Colleen Callahan, Costume and Textile  Specialists
"Bustles, Bloomers & Naked Elbows: Women=E2=80=99s Fads &  Fashions in the 1=
9th=20
Century"
=20
Carolann Schmitt, Genteel Arts Academy=20
hands-on workshop teaching  cartridge pleating, fringe, and bows
(materials provided)
=20
Ann Wass, Riversdale House Museum
=E2=80=9C'Fresh Assortment of Fine  Goods':Shopping in Federal Baltimore"
=20
Cost of the program, includes admission to the museum, lunch & workshop  kit=
:
$30 members of CSA, the National Society of the Colonial Dames of  America,=20
or Friends of Mount Clare, $25 for student members of CSA, $35 for  non-memb=
ers
=20
For more information call 410-837-3262 or e-mail _info@mountclare.org_=20
(mailto:info@mountclare.org)=20
=20
To register, make check or money payable to CSA Mid-Atlantic Region  and =20
MAIL TO: Debbie Farthing, 8210 Deerbrooke Ct., Pasadena MD 21122;  must be=20
received by April 16.
Please indicate any dietary restrictions with  your registration.




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL=20
Home.     =20
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=3D15?ncid=3Daol=
hom00030000000001)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a 
guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 
cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as 
i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he 
sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I 
started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i 
figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in details. I am 
going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print "Les Adieaux".
So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am 
embroidering the pannels for the dress.
See more here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm

---------

As always, your work is beautiful! I think the Canadian guy is getting the 
better end of the deal :-) The dress is beautiful and I love looking at your 
embroidery. The doll, however, is kinda creepy.  I'm sure it will be 
gorgeous when it is completely dressed and has a wig.

Denise B

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Welcome to the club!
Do you know that they can be awfully addictive?
A friend of mine who also has ball jointed dolls send me a website from 
that friend of yours.
I told her that I knew you from this list.

I am still working on a 19th century dress and tomorrow I will order her 
wig with ringlets.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html

My darkelf is from dollzone en my girl is from Luts http://www.eluts.com/
She is a senior delf and she is slightly more mature than other models. 
She poses beautifully.
They are wonderfull to take pictures from.
Oh i forgot Losboll it is a flooting head not sure if it is he or she.
I experiment on it to get better on face painting.
http://85.17.225.57/202500001-202550000/202519501-202519600/202519562_6_Guec.jpeg

Her you can probably vieuw some more pictures of them.
http://deredere.hyves.nl/

I love them.... With the ones I have I can change wigs, eyes and 
eyelashes even the face paint if I really want.

Yea totally addictive :-)


Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Dear all,
> I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull suggestions and comments on my coming projekt.
> I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me in a folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more questions later when i start the projekt.
> One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to have a close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, and ill take my camera with me.
> Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, then have another important order and you dont have the time to make research. I must do this later.
>
> If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in details. I am going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print "Les Adieaux". 
> So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am embroidering the pannels for the dress.
> See more here: 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm
>
> Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm
>
> And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front.
>
> Two buisy!
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>   

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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 16:34:39 -0700
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On Mar 19, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Dawn wrote:
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>> Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and  
>> waistcoat.
>
> The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have  
> one myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there,  
> in the $100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on  
> fabrics for it....

<obligatory_pimping>
If you're coming to Costume-Con 26 <http://www.cc26.info>, we've got  
some very knowledgeable ball-joint doll (sometimes referred to as  
resin dolls) folks attending, and there's going to be a ball-joint  
doll reception in our doll exhibit.
</obligatory_pimping>

Japanese ball-joint dolls (exemplified by the Volks "Dollfie" lines)  
are usually very expensive. There are Japanese brands like Obitsu that  
are more reasonably priced.

There are several Korean manufacturers who make dolls that are as well- 
crafted as the Japanese dolls, and while their design sense is  
sometimes different, they're often very beautiful too. They're also a  
lot cheaper.

A warning, though: These dolls can be habit-forming. I don't think  
it's unintentional that one of the largest US retailers of BJDs is  
named "Junky Spot." <http://www.junkyspot.com/>

andy
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:10:39 -0400
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On Wednesday 19 March 2008, MaisondeHadley@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> wickedfrau@msn.com writes:
>
> http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S
>
> Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
> flouncy mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
> permanently sewn in.
>
>
> You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the
> same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud,
> puddles, etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing
> to do  over an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an
> issue of practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of
> the patent  "Dress Elevators" in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your
> skirt, or simply  using pins.
>

I'd add that, so far, all of the comments relate to the interestingly poofy 
style of the skirt.  1860s bodices were very different than the top of this 
dress, and the combination of the two (the plain, scoop-necked bodice with no 
front seams and the flounced skirt) strikes me as modern.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:12:57 -0500
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>From the back? Are you possible mistaking the pulled up skirt version as the
back of the outfit?

-----Original Message-----
>From the back it reminds me of a Robe a la Polinaise C. 1700s. Or a Roman
shade. :-)

Monica

-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
flouncy
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
permanently sewn in.



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Subject: [h-cost] Partlets
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It must be obvious when I'm working on a paper, because that's when I 
start peppering the list with questions (rather than writing long 
treatises to answer other people!). As usual, this is about something 
that's rather removed from my own area -- so I don't know much about it.

In my paper (which relates to an aspect of late 14th c. English 
middle-class dress), I'm making a passing reference to partlets, 
specifically to say that they don't show up till well past the period 
I'm focusing on. However, I'd like to be able to say something a little 
more concrete, specifically how much later it is that partlets do show 
up, and in what places.

It's obvious that partlets in a variety of styles are all over the place 
in the late 16th century, but I'm having a harder time nailing down when 
they first appear. (It doesn't help that my reference library is very 
spotty after the late 1400s.)

Along with getting dates for first appearances, I'm especially 
interested in finding clear images of partlets worn outside the dress 
(tied under the arms). White is best, but I'd be happy to find others as 
well. I particularly need examples that have collars, as I'm comparing 
collar styles among different garments over time.

So far the earliest partlets I've located for England are some 
suggestions in Holbein's drawings, around the 1530s, but these are very 
sketchy (literally) so I'm not sure of them, and I can't use the images 
because they're not clear enough. So I still need a good early start 
date and/or example from England.

I found a picture of a woman with a white partlet, worn on the outside 
and tied under the arms, in Flanders, 1563 (specifically in a painting 
by Beuckelaer reproduced in Drea's book on Flemish workingwomen's 
clothing). I don't know how much earlier they show up.

For France, I found a fancy beaded partlet of something transparent, 
worn over a dress, also from 1563, in a portrait of Claude de Beaune 
from the studio of Francois Clouet, now at the Louvre (Fig. 328 in 
Payne). That also feels rather late.

I have nothing on the early side for Italy, Germany, or Spain; my 
library is too slim for these regions.

Can anyone point me toward an earlier appearance for any of these 
countries, and/or toward images of the partlets worn with the ties visible?

To underscore my need here: This is a passing reference in a paper on 
another topic, and I just want to be sure I get the right ballpark for 
first appearances. This is NOT a paper on partlets, and I'm not 
interested in doing extensive research on partlets. (Not this time.) 
Thus my hope that someone else who has already been down this road will 
be able to toss me a date or an image!

Thanks,

Robin




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This is similar to one method of making the Polonaise, in the 18th
century:   http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm

Jean


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this skirt and thought it was a great idea.  I think I had seen a variation on this a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but this is the first time I've seen it in a catalogue.  
>  
> http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S
>  
> Has anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably permanently sewn in.
>  
> Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt!  I know I plan on using it for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.
> Sg
>  
> As one of my favorite historians said:
>  
> "If you thought of it, they probably did too."_______________________________________________
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>   



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Are you treating the transparent kerchiefs at the neck of the circa-1400 
era as something not-a-partlet-ancestor?

-- cv
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Are you treating the transparent kerchiefs at the neck of the circa-1400 
> era as something not-a-partlet-ancestor?

They're not relevant in this case. My concern is actually collars in the 
late 14th c. (actually I'm analyzing a particular narrative passage that 
mentions a collar, so I'm talking about what the collar might have 
looked like). In discussing possibilities, I mention partlets as collars 
made as separate garments, as opposed to the types of collars that are 
attached to, or part of, a garment. It's not the main point of my paper, 
but I need to be able to acknowledge that such a thing does show up at 
some point past the period I'm focusing on.

The scarves that go over the shoulders might well be ancestors to the 
partlet, but they don't have collars, so mercifully I don't have to talk 
about them. If I were focusing on partlet development, I would.

All this just so I can say the equivalent of "and a while later you see 
this thing called a partlet ..." But vagueness is so unprofessional.

--Robin

-- 

Robin Netherton
Editor at Large
robin@netherton.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest to 
interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk 
piece a shawl/wrap?
or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl

What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)

I have found the sleeve in "Art of Costume in Russia", plate referance #13

For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the 
studio of Marten von Meytens.
Thanks
Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!) 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa
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This portrait?
http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp
or
http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php
http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg

-----Original Message-----
Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest to
interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk
piece a shawl/wrap?
or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl

What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)

I have found the sleeve in "Art of Costume in Russia", plate referance #13

For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the
studio of Marten von Meytens.
Thanks
Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!)


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No, not really - two?  I don't / didn't see that.

Sandy

Thanks to all for your suggestions - researching now!

At 10:05 AM 3/19/2008, you wrote:
>A lot of it depends on the style of dress.  I made one for the 
>Suitable Gown for Her Majesty presentation that worked great.  It 
>just slide into the front of the rolls created by the outer gown 
>"lapels."  I will look for a picture and post it.  My websites are 
>just fubar right now and probably will be for awhile.
>
>Can you show us a picture of the dress you are making?
>
>Sg
>
>P.S.  I am assuming also that you realize there are two 
>collars/ruffs there right?

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
appears in?

The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
anyone.

--Robin
yeah, heavy research day
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Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
> I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
> on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
> appears in?
> 
> The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
> anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead
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Agnolo Bronzino, c1528 -32, Royal Collection, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth I=
I.=0A=0Ahttp://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/theartofitaly/object.a=
sp?row=3D13&exhibs=3DCITAFLORO&item=3D14=0A=0A=0A =0ABella=0AThe Realm of V=
enus=0Ahttp://realmofvenus.net=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: =
Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>=0ATo: Historic Costume List <h-costum=
e@indra.com>=0ASent: Thursday, 20 March, 2008 2:45:35 PM=0ASubject: [h-cost=
] Re: Painting ID?=0A=0AYes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?=
=0Ahttp://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg=0A=0ARobin Netherton wr=
ote:=0A> I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's =
no ID =0A> on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a bo=
ok it =0A> appears in?=0A> =0A> The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in c=
ase that rings any bells for =0A> anyone.=0A=0A--Robin=0Ahalf brain-dead=0A=
_______________________________________________=0Ah-costume mailing list=0A=
h-costume@mail.indra.com=0Ahttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 00:26:59 -0400
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On Thursday 20 March 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
> Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
> http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg
>
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID
> > on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it
> > appears in?
> >
> > The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for
> > anyone.

I found it attributed as follows on Jen Thompson's site:

Agnolo Bronzino: A Daughter of Matteo Sofferoni, 1530-1532
The Royal Collection, Her Majesty the Queen, Elizabeth II

Sorry I don't know what book/s you can find it in, but knowing that it's from 
the Queen's collection might help you find one.  Good luck.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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  I love that one!  It's a Bronzino, and I think it's at Hampton Court - if
I remember right  Hope that helps a bit.

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 9:16 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
> I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
> on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
> appears in?
> 
> The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
> anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead
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Many thanks to Catherine and Bella! I figured this would look familiar 
to someone who works in that period. It would have taken me forever...

--Robin
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Portrait of a lady in green, c.1528-32  c.1528-32
  Agnolo Bronzino
  Acquired by Charles I
   
  http://tinyurl.com/3xfphj

   
  Message: 14
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:15:35 -0500
From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <47E1E4E7.60408@netherton.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
> I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no
 ID 
> on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it
 
> appears in?
> 
> The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells
 for 
> anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead


       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Hi Bjarne you may find these people helpful. They are very friendly and 
full of fantastic advice
http://www.tudorgroup.co.uk/
regards
Joy
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Hi Robin, the Royal Armories might be able to help you
http://www.royalarmouries.org/
regards
Joy
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Joy Shillaker wrote:
> Hi Robin, the Royal Armories might be able to help you
> http://www.royalarmouries.org/

Thanks, Joy (and others who have responded), but as I posted this 
afternoon, I got what I needed earlier, in the form of a citation to an 
extant item.

Don't want people to be scurrying around on this one on my behalf now...

--Robin
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This is a french style court gown. It is boned bodice laced center back and 
skirt over pannier.
I have made a lot of research of this style because i made a danish court 
dress in this style.
Look in "Costume" and Janet Arnold made a pattern draft of Sofia Magdalenas 
wedding dress, wich also is in this style. Besides this you can find 
informations about the style in Lena Rangstrøms "Klæder for tid och evighet"
Sweden is very lucky because they have 5 dresses preserved in this style, 
this is: Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress and court dress, Sofia Albertinas 
wedding dress and then dresses belonging to Ulrika Eleonora. Lena Rangstrøm 
also made a small book about Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress, with lots of 
photos - some even taken with xray pictures, to see the boning in the 
bodices.
It is so interresting reading.
For a pannier in this shape, you can use Blanche Paines patterndraft of the 
pannier worn with Ulrika Eleonoras coronation dress. Its pleated in shape, 
before the channels for the hoops are inserted.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 4:43 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa


> This portrait?
> http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp
> or
> http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php
> http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest 
> to
> interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
> Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
> Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk
> piece a shawl/wrap?
> or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl
>
> What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)
>
> I have found the sleeve in "Art of Costume in Russia", plate referance #13
>
> For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the
> studio of Marten von Meytens.
> Thanks
> Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partlets
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:00:56 +1030
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>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:35:18 -0500
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partlets
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <47E1CD66.903@netherton.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>> Are you treating the transparent kerchiefs at the neck of the circa-1400
>> era as something not-a-partlet-ancestor?
>
> They're not relevant in this case. My concern is actually collars in the
> late 14th c. (actually I'm analyzing a particular narrative passage that
> mentions a collar, so I'm talking about what the collar might have
> looked like). In discussing possibilities, I mention partlets as collars
> made as separate garments, as opposed to the types of collars that are
> attached to, or part of, a garment. It's not the main point of my paper,
> but I need to be able to acknowledge that such a thing does show up at
> some point past the period I'm focusing on.
>
> The scarves that go over the shoulders might well be ancestors to the
> partlet, but they don't have collars, so mercifully I don't have to talk
> about them. If I were focusing on partlet development, I would.
>
> All this just so I can say the equivalent of "and a while later you see
> this thing called a partlet ..." But vagueness is so unprofessional.
>
I think around 1525 is a safe bet for partlet as collar - see the 
rudimentary
collared partlet on a couple of the Holbein sketches of Thomas More's 
family.
For partlet as outerware, not partlet as shirt, they first seem to appear as 
those
black things filling in the square neckline of late 15th century gowns, but 
again
the collars don't appear to the 1520s or so.

Might the collar in question be a necklace?

Claire/Angharad 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ball jointed dolls
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I would be very curious to know how many of us on the list are now 
into BJDs.  How many of us got into them because of the possibilities 
for costuming them?  I know when I talked my husband into letting me 
get my first girl (a Limhwa half-elf) I swore it would be my only 
doll and I wanted her so that I could make her all the costumes I 
wanted to do but couldn't make for myself for various reasons.  One 
year later and I have four dolls, two floating heads (it was five 
until this past weekend - I just sold my Bobobie Sprite), and my 
husband Michael has his first doll on layaway.  My friend Heather 
doesn't call it "dollycrack" for nothing.  ;-)

However, back to costuming, they really are ideal for it, with the 
single drawback, of the bodies being non-malleable so that when 
making underpinnings such as stays, it can be difficult to create the 
correct the look even when using them.  Once I'm done my current 
sewing commitments, I get to go back to work on my 18th century stuff 
for my girls.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:54 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:
>Welcome to the club!
>Do you know that they can be awfully addictive?
>A friend of mine who also has ball jointed dolls send me a website 
>from that friend of yours.
>I told her that I knew you from this list.
>
>I am still working on a 19th century dress and tomorrow I will order 
>her wig with ringlets.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html
>
>My darkelf is from dollzone en my girl is from Luts http://www.eluts.com/
>She is a senior delf and she is slightly more mature than other 
>models. She poses beautifully.
>They are wonderfull to take pictures from.
>Oh i forgot Losboll it is a flooting head not sure if it is he or she.
>I experiment on it to get better on face painting.
>http://85.17.225.57/202500001-202550000/202519501-202519600/202519562_6_Guec.jpeg
>
>Her you can probably vieuw some more pictures of them.
>http://deredere.hyves.nl/
>
>I love them.... With the ones I have I can change wigs, eyes and 
>eyelashes even the face paint if I really want.
>
>Yea totally addictive :-)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Maria Teresa
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The first one was Bingo!  I thought it was a seated figure but the style of 
the gown is true to my other source.  The other views you cite are also 
interesting!
Thanks for the look-see; I see I have my work cut out ... (The exhibit I am 
working on is presently developing with the title "Cut Down to Size")
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 11:43 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa


> This portrait?
> http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp
> or
> http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php
> http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest 
> to
> interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
> Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
> Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk
> piece a shawl/wrap?
> or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl
>
> What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)
>
> I have found the sleeve in "Art of Costume in Russia", plate referance #13
>
> For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the
> studio of Marten von Meytens.
> Thanks
> Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Maria Teresa
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 08:38:17 -0400
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Thank you so much; the Sofi Magdalenas gown should fit the bill.  I couldn't 
find the Arnold last eve but will ferret it out today. The Waugh diagrams 
are before me for a gown of this period; I will compare the two and see what 
will work best for a 16" doll. Unfortunately I haven't time to do the 
embroidery (as if I could attempt it) but do have some lovely antique heavy 
gold work on tapes sufficient for the skirt and will try some surface work 
for the stomacher. The detail work on such as found in the Kyoto collection 
should give me some closeup of pattern and stitching.
 Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Maria Teresa


> This is a french style court gown. It is boned bodice laced center back 
> and skirt over pannier.
> I have made a lot of research of this style because i made a danish court 
> dress in this style.
> Look in "Costume" and Janet Arnold made a pattern draft of Sofia 
> Magdalenas wedding dress, wich also is in this style. Besides this you can 
> find informations about the style in Lena Rangstrøms "Klæder for tid och 
> evighet"
> Sweden is very lucky because they have 5 dresses preserved in this style, 
> this is: Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress and court dress, Sofia Albertinas 
> wedding dress and then dresses belonging to Ulrika Eleonora. Lena 
> Rangstrøm also made a small book about Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress, 
> with lots of photos - some even taken with xray pictures, to see the 
> boning in the bodices.
> It is so interresting reading.
> For a pannier in this shape, you can use Blanche Paines patterndraft of 
> the pannier worn with Ulrika Eleonoras coronation dress. Its pleated in 
> shape, before the channels for the hoops are inserted.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 4:43 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa
>
>
>> This portrait?
>> http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp
>> or
>> http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php
>> http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t
>> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg
>> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest 
>> to
>> interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
>> Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
>> Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk
>> piece a shawl/wrap?
>> or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl
>>
>> What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)
>>
>> I have found the sleeve in "Art of Costume in Russia", plate referance 
>> #13
>>
>> For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the
>> studio of Marten von Meytens.
>> Thanks
>> Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!)
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Forwarded to Ailith.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thu 3/20/2008 12:14 AM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Painting ID?



I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID
on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it
appears in?

The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for
anyone.

--Robin
yeah, heavy research day
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Jean, these aren't "tied" up per se with the intention of letting them down=
 to train are they? =20
Sg



> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:34:47 +0000> From: waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> To: =
h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history befo=
re?> CC: > > This is similar to one method of making the Polonaise, in the =
18th> century: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87=
.htm> > Jean=
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Oh yeah - I think we got that.  :)   I didn't even realize it was a dress, =
I was only interested in the mechanics of the skirt.  I actually like the t=
op part of it [sin shiny poly fabric of the skirt].  I don't have the figur=
e for the top though...and I can't imagine wearing any of it in its current=
 state for anything but a fantasy thing....> I'd add that, so far, all of t=
he comments relate to the interestingly poofy > style of the skirt. 1860s b=
odices were very different than the top of this > dress, and the combinatio=
n of the two (the plain, scoop-necked bodice with no > front seams and the =
flounced skirt) strikes me as modern.=
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Claire Clarke wrote:


> I think around 1525 is a safe bet for partlet as collar - see the 
> rudimentary
> collared partlet on a couple of the Holbein sketches of Thomas More's 
> family.
> For partlet as outerware, not partlet as shirt, they first seem to 
> appear as those
> black things filling in the square neckline of late 15th century gowns, 
> but again
> the collars don't appear to the 1520s or so.

Thanks. This is consistent with what I expected; it's good to know I 
haven't made a glaringly erroneous assumption.

The Holbein sketches are too, um, sketchy to use as visual aids unless 
you know what you're looking for. If you can think an image of one of 
those 1520s collars, please let me know (books are fine, in fact 
preferred to online), but don't go to extended trouble hunting it up for me!

> Might the collar in question be a necklace?

No -- I thought of that, but fortunately, there's enough color/material 
description to rule out that one from the context. Which leaves me 
looking at and describing Collar Styles Through The Ages.

--Robin
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The earliest partlet I can think of is Brugundian, "Portrait of a Lady" by 
Rogier Van Der Wyeden's workshop: 
http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=ng1433
It's not worn on top of the dress, and its probably not as structured a 
partlet as you were thinking... there's not really a collar.

For Italy try 1485, "Portrait of a Young Woman" by Domenico Ghirlandaio: 
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html 
which I think is the clearest picture of an early Florentine coverciere 
(which gets translated as partlet) worn on the outside of the dress, 
although it's not the earliest portrait. There are a lot of other Italian 
pictures to choose from at: 
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html Again, no 
collars associated with these partlets yet.

For Spain, if you have a copy of _Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530_ by Ruth M. 
Anderson that would be my first go-to source.

In Germany you get gollers with collars fairly early, but I don't know if 
you'd count those as partlets... they're as much mini-capelets as 
partlets. Here's an example: 
http://www.museothyssen.org/thyssen/coleccion/ficha925.htm?
You might scroll though the pictures on 
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/ to get an overview. Unfortunately 
the links to the earlier versions of gollers don't seem to be working.
BTW, a lovely image of a German partlet worn outside of the dress is 
http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_image.aspx?image=ps278657.jpg&retpage=21768 
but it's _long_ after your time frame of interest (1547)

Hope this helps!
        -sunny

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Do you still need a book reference? If so, I'm pretty sure the Bronzino 
portrait is in _Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and 
Renaissance Portraits of Women_
edited by David Alan Brown.
        -sunny 
 

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Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org wrote:
> The earliest partlet I can think of is Brugundian, "Portrait of a Lady" by 
> Rogier Van Der Wyeden's workshop: 
> http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=ng1433
> It's not worn on top of the dress, and its probably not as structured a 
> partlet as you were thinking... there's not really a collar.

Could easily be a scarf rather than a partlet (or any garment 
specifically sewn to shape) as such, in fact.

(much really good detail snipped)

> ...but it's _long_ after your time frame of interest (1547)

Actually, very helpful, as all this verifies my sense that collars as 
standalone garments are understood to show up much after the period I'm 
addressing, and that they also seem to come from a different line of 
evolution (e.g. first there's shoulder-wraps and they grow collars, 
rather than collars separating themselves from garments).

This list is great. Thanks, all!

--Robin
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Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org wrote:
> Do you still need a book reference? If so, I'm pretty sure the Bronzino 
> portrait is in _Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and 
> Renaissance Portraits of Women_
> edited by David Alan Brown.

Thanks! That will help.

(I have to take conventional slides of a bunch of these images for my 
presentation.)

--Robin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: need advice on making a standing collar
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Yes, the smaller ruffled one is atop the large smooth one. I noticed that
too.
LynnD


On 3/19/08, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
>
> No, not really - two?  I don't / didn't see that.
>
> Sandy
>
> Thanks to all for your suggestions - researching now!
>
> At 10:05 AM 3/19/2008, you wrote:
> >A lot of it depends on the style of dress.  I made one for the
> >Suitable Gown for Her Majesty presentation that worked great.  It
> >just slide into the front of the rolls created by the outer gown
> >"lapels."  I will look for a picture and post it.  My websites are
> >just fubar right now and probably will be for awhile.
> >
> >Can you show us a picture of the dress you are making?
> >
> >Sg
> >
> >P.S.  I am assuming also that you realize there are two
> >collars/ruffs there right?
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
> -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
>
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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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Does anyone make a doll that is similar to a real 18th century fashion  
doll...y'know, carved of wood, painted with enamel, kinda quaintly  crude?



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Subject: RE: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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Thread-Topic: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I remember one of my doll magazines featuring a maker of 18th style
wooden dolls. But they don't come cheap--I think they were maybe $400
undressed and $750 up dressed. Theriault's sold some exclusives, but I
don't get their catalog anymore. I believe they still have an online
store.

While I love the BJD's and covet at least one in my lifetime, it won't
happen without a lottery. Volks Super Dollfie now has a factory store in
L.A., which if one has the $$, you can have a doll made from start to
finish per your specs from their full-choice system.

Cindy Abel.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 11:55 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance
costumes.

Does anyone make a doll that is similar to a real 18th century fashion
doll...y'know, carved of wood, painted with enamel, kinda quaintly
crude?



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on
AOL=20
Home.     =20
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=3D15?ncid=3D=
aol
hom00030000000001)
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Subject: RE: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:30:41 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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 She isn't exactly ball-jointed, but I just got a little 10 1/2 doll
named Momoko that I've wanted for years. I got her from Cherished
Friends for $109.00 including shipping. She is a Japanese creation now
manufactured in China. She is 1/6 human scale, but that works out to
about 5'3", rather than Barbie's 5'9" She reminds me of Francie(Barbie's
Modern Cousin from the mid-60's)and has a more realistic skin tone than
most U.S. dolls who appear to live at the tanning parlor or who are
addicted to all-over spray tanning.

Tonner Company Store has a new Ultra Basic Tyler(16")in three hair
colors for $50+shipping. Tonner also makes 22" American Model dolls that
sell for around $100 for a basic doll, if you can find one as Tonner
produces them in limited editions of 300-500 for basic and dressed
dolls.

Doll manufactures are starting to cut back on doll lines and production
numbers, in view of the present economy so an American Model might be
more difficult to get. I managed to finally snag a basic doll last year.

Cindy Abel

=20
=20
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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Be wary of exageration, too, of course. There's an
early description of an Irish woman with a brooch the
size of a dinner plate, which seems pretty unlikely. A
buckler is fairly small, but still.

Maggie
--- Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
wrote:

> At 01:12 PM 3/18/2008, you wrote:
> >So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss
> (meaning the 
> >round metal stud-like thing in the middle of a
> small round shield) 
> >from c. 1400 England? I have no idea if any
> artifacts exist, but I 
> >know that shields with central bosses are evident
> in artwork. Rather 
> >than just look at illuminations and guess, though,
> I would feel 
> >better consulting people who work in armor of this
> period and have a 
> >broader sense of the available evidence.
> >
> >Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a
> written work 
> >(period document or a modern study), an extant
> artifact, or an 
> >expert who has studied these well enough to be
> considered an 
> >authority (e.g. not just "this is what works for me
> when I make 
> >them" or "my Laurel says...").
> 
> 
> I have no proof, but from the pictures I've seen,
> and the shield boss 
> I use, I would say it's just larger than the man's
> fist with a gauntlet on.
> 
> Sorry, not very definite, but you don't want one
> bigger because the 
> shield slips around too much.
> 
> Good luck
> Genie 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Writing, editing, razzmatazz
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Ball jointed dolls-why did you get into them?
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I have a friend who has one.  I drafted a couple of patterns for it, for he=
r.  I'd love to own a couple of them.  But I ran into the stated problem wi=
th the torso...rats. (Same problem I have with the Kyoto Manikins at my loc=
al museum)  Maybe we could gang up and make them make a couple of period to=
rsos!=20
=20
If you search in Yahoo, you will come up with about 64 groups which discuss=
 them.  This is the one I belong to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OurSilen=
tFriends/
=20
They are pretty active (though I am not).
=20
I understand some folks think they are creepy, but I am very attracted to t=
heir androgyny for some reason (hmmmm maybe that is too much information - =
huh?)  =20
=20
There are several books out there that are really "Art" books of the dolls =
dressed up in all kinds of interesting costumes and "posed" - they are pret=
ty cool.
=20
Sg
=20
=20



Y
=20
> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 06:10:50 -0500> To: h-costume@indra.com> From: gil=
shallos@comcast.net> CC: > Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ball jointed dolls> > I wo=
uld be very curious to know how many of us on the list are now > into BJDs.=
 How many of us got into them because of the possibilities > for costuming =
them? I know when I talked my husband into letting me > get my first girl (=
a Limhwa half-elf) I swore it would be my only > doll and I wanted her so t=
hat I could make her all the costumes I > wanted to do but couldn't make fo=
r myself for various reasons. One > year later and I have four dolls, two f=
loating heads (it was five > until this past weekend - I just sold my Bobob=
ie Sprite), and my > husband Michael has his first doll on layaway. My frie=
nd Heather > doesn't call it "dollycrack" for nothing. ;-)> > However, back=
 to costuming, they really are ideal for it, with the > single drawback, of=
 the bodies being non-malleable so that when > making underpinnings such as=
 stays, it can be difficult to create the > correct the look even when usin=
g them. Once I'm done my current > sewing commitments, I get to go back to =
work on my 18th century stuff > for my girls.> > Cheers,> Danielle=
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Preliminary Costume-Con 26 Program Listing is now up
 at cc26.info!
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--BEGIN FORWARDED MESSAGE--
I've just finished loading the program info for Costume-Con 26 into our
online database, and you can now view it at
<http://www.cc26.info/view_program.php>

I'm still working to consolidate a few pieces that ended up duplicated
in the database, so pardon our dust while I continue a bit of cleanup; I
thought you'd want to see what we have in store as soon as possible.

Kevin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
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I didn't even realize it was a dress, I was only interested in the 
mechanics of the skirt.

The modern "skirt tied together in places" look has been around for two 
or three years. I've not only seen many examples, I've bought a couple 
of dozen at least.

There are many variants. The ties are usually twill tapes dyed to match 
the fabric, but sometimes they are ribbons or strips made of the 
fabric. Occasionally buttons and loops are used instead of ties. Usually 
the skirt is long or calf-length, but sometimes it is knee length or so. 
Usually it is pretty full to very full.  Often it is a separate skirt, 
but sometimes it is the skirt of a dress, a tunic top, or a 3/4-length 
or longer coat or sweater/knit coat.

Often the ties are meant to raise the skirt in a place or places, at 
will. Sometimes the skirt is made longer in back, on both sides, on one 
side, or occasionally even in front. (However, it is not made long 
enough to drag on the ground when not tied up, this not being very 
convenient for modern wear.) When the ties are tied, the skirt is 
leveled, more or less. But sometimes the skirt is made the same length 
all around, and the ties raise it unevenly. Sometimes the ties create a 
kind of bustle on the upper part of the skirt. Sometimes the ties are 
meant to pull parts together across the skirt, narrowing it at will. One 
simple variant where the sides of an A-line skirt are pulled across the 
front and tied with the side "points" together, is called an apron skirt.

I'm also seeing a lot of "roman shade" tie skirts (you pull the ties up 
to ruche the skirt as much as desired at the bottom, and tie them 
together), or permanently ruched or elasticized skirts that have the 
same effect, except you can't un-ruche them.

I believe the inspiration for these styles is the late 1860s through the 
1880s, but they are not attempts at historic recreation per se.

Designers/manufacturers that have been producing these styles include 
Ronen Chen (Israeli), Hanna/La Journee, Spirithouse, Surrealist, and 
numerous others, especially some European manufacturers. Sometimes this 
is marketed as part of a layered style called "lagenlook," which I 
believe to be German for "layered look," but the term has caught on in 
English to some extent.  I see it a lot on eBay, especially with 
international sellers--the "lagenlook" seems to be popular in both 
Germany and England. XCVI Wearables has made a lot of the elasticized 
ruched-up skirts.

The full European "lagenlook" involves things like wearing a long skirt 
and also either a shorter skirt or a tunic top, one or all of them tying 
up in some way, and possibly a big drapey sweater on top of it all.
Websites that often carry skirts in the tied styles include 
www.artfulwears.com and www.2chicboutique.com. Ebay sellers that carry 
it include guaranteed_authentic_ fashion (they specialize in drapey knit 
versions of the lagenlook), and many others.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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From: Genie Barrett <ladymaggie@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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At 01:09 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:
>Be wary of exageration, too, of course. There's an
>early description of an Irish woman with a brooch the
>size of a dinner plate, which seems pretty unlikely. A
>buckler is fairly small, but still.
>
>Maggie


Yes, but I have seen Celtic broaches that ARE the size of a shield 
boss.  That famous penanular-looking one, can't remember the name, 
that is in the Irish Museum of Art.  (The same museum that the 
Shinrone gown is in.)  That was at least six inches across.  My 
shield boss isn't much bigger than that.

Though I won't argue that exaggeration is a very likely thing in some cases.

Genie

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Thanks a lot Joy, ill try it,

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 8:30 AM
Subject: [h-cost] for Bjarne


> Hi Bjarne you may find these people helpful. They are very friendly and 
> full of fantastic advice
> http://www.tudorgroup.co.uk/
> regards
> Joy
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: Ball jointed dolls was:[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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Dear Deredere,
Thanks for the link to your dolls, they are lovely.
It is for sure, that you get addicted to this, i am up into my neck in 
inspiration to make lots of clothes, and i cant waite til i get this dress 
finnished and shipped away so that i can make some in my own 
taste.............
Those french fashion prints i found online some time ago, are screaming at 
me, do me do me!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: Ball jointed dolls was:[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.


> Welcome to the club!
> Do you know that they can be awfully addictive?
> A friend of mine who also has ball jointed dolls send me a website from 
> that friend of yours.
> I told her that I knew you from this list.
>
> I am still working on a 19th century dress and tomorrow I will order her 
> wig with ringlets.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html
>
> My darkelf is from dollzone en my girl is from Luts http://www.eluts.com/
> She is a senior delf and she is slightly more mature than other models. 
> She poses beautifully.
> They are wonderfull to take pictures from.
> Oh i forgot Losboll it is a flooting head not sure if it is he or she.
> I experiment on it to get better on face painting.
> http://85.17.225.57/202500001-202550000/202519501-202519600/202519562_6_Guec.jpeg
>
> Her you can probably vieuw some more pictures of them.
> http://deredere.hyves.nl/
>
> I love them.... With the ones I have I can change wigs, eyes and eyelashes 
> even the face paint if I really want.
>
> Yea totally addictive :-)
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
>> Dear all,
>> I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull 
>> suggestions and comments on my coming projekt.
>> I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me 
>> in a folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more 
>> questions later when i start the projekt.
>> One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to 
>> have a close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, and 
>> ill take my camera with me.
>> Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, 
>> then have another important order and you dont have the time to make 
>> research. I must do this later.
>>
>> If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a 
>> guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 
>> 60 cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, 
>> and as i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a 
>> swap, he sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his 
>> dolls. I started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time 
>> than i figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in 
>> details. I am going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print "Les 
>> Adieaux". So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, 
>> right now i am embroidering the pannels for the dress.
>> See more here: 
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm
>>
>> Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat:
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm
>>
>> And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front.
>>
>> Two buisy!
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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The 2006/07 issue of "Dolls and Teddy Bears featured the master crafter 
Peter Wolf's 18C dolls, 12 in all.  They range frpm $3200 plus to $650s. 
Impressive lot.  dollmasters.com will put them before your eye!

For myself, I made a 10" cloth lady doll and gave it the Crackle treatment. 
On more than one occasion, she has passed for wood!! (The crackle treatment 
involves painting the doll form with brown or any other base color; this is 
overpainted with the crackle compound and white paint is applied while the 
crackle coating is still somewhat wet.  When it dries, it "crackles" to 
reveal the base coat.  Voila, old wood!)

Kathleen




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.


I remember one of my doll magazines featuring a maker of 18th style
wooden dolls. But they don't come cheap--I think they were maybe $400
undressed and $750 up dressed. Theriault's sold some exclusives, but I
don't get their catalog anymore. I believe they still have an online
store.

While I love the BJD's and covet at least one in my lifetime, it won't
happen without a lottery. Volks Super Dollfie now has a factory store in
L.A., which if one has the $$, you can have a doll made from start to
finish per your specs from their full-choice system.

Cindy Abel.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 11:55 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance
costumes.

Does anyone make a doll that is similar to a real 18th century fashion
doll...y'know, carved of wood, painted with enamel, kinda quaintly
crude?



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on
AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aol
hom00030000000001)
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As far as I know, it's not intended as a way of keeping your skirt out 
of the mud.  But on the other hand, it's not a permanent, sewn 
arrangement, it's definitely something done with cords that you can 
either loop up or let down.  It would be nice if there was any evidence 
of someone wearing the same dress different ways on different occasions 
- like you sometimes get diaries or accounts showing that sleeves could 
be interchangeable in Tudor times.  I don't know that much detail of the 
period.

Jean


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Jean, these aren't "tied" up per se with the intention of letting them down to train are they?  
> Sg
>
>
>
>   
>> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:34:47 +0000> From: waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?> CC: > > This is similar to one method of making the Polonaise, in the 18th> century: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm> > Jean_______________________________________________
>>     
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>   


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?
References: <BAY133-W26541FF390CC89B767A2CDD2070@phx.gbl>	<47E186F7.7000405@yahoo.co.uk>	<BAY133-W56FE50A3247274555A0479D2000@phx.gbl>
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In the late 1860s there were various methods of looping up a skirt with 
ring/drawstring arrangements or buttons to make it look different over 
an underskirt. My book _Reconstruction Era Fashions_ shows some of them.

In the 1880s it was common to "polonaise" tunics/long bodices, and 
overskirts, with ties (or sometimes with buttons); but an important 
reason was that the garment could be made much flatter to clean and 
iron, than if it were permanently bunched up.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Jean Waddie wrote:
> As far as I know, it's not intended as a way of keeping your skirt out 
> of the mud.  But on the other hand, it's not a permanent, sewn 
> arrangement, it's definitely something done with cords that you can 
> either loop up or let down.  It would be nice if there was any evidence 
> of someone wearing the same dress different ways on different occasions 
> - like you sometimes get diaries or accounts showing that sleeves could 
> be interchangeable in Tudor times.  I don't know that much detail of the 
> period.
> 
> Jean
> 
> 
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>> Jean, these aren't "tied" up per se with the intention of letting them 
>> down to train are they?  Sg
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:34:47 +0000> From: waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> 
>>> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in 
>>> history before?> CC: > > This is similar to one method of making the 
>>> Polonaise, in the 18th> century: 
>>> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm> > 
>>> Jean_______________________________________________
>>>     
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>   
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
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In a message dated 3/20/2008 3:56:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

The  2006/07 issue of "Dolls and Teddy Bears featured the master crafter 
Peter  Wolf's 18C dolls, 12 in all.  They range frpm $3200 plus to $650s.  



*************
 
Nach...they cost a lot. This does not seem unreasonable to me....if you  
think about it: Carved [by hand?] from wood. Painted [by hand?] and then dressed  
[again...by hand?]. 
 
I mean....look at these:
 
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-630-=-SD-631.jpg_ 
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-630-=-SD-631.jpg) 
 
These were just what I was thinking about. I love 'em! 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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Subject: [h-cost] 18 century dolls by Peter Wolf
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Here are links to the other 18th century fashion type dolls made by Peter  
Wolf on the web site. These are great fun!
 
 
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg_ 
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg) 
 
_http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=2094_ 
(http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=2094) 
 
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg_ 
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg) 
 
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg_ 
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg) 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
_______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18 century dolls by Peter Wolf
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Thank you Albert! I knew this was the artist I was thinking of. These
are all handmade and probably better than the original dolls. I just
love that the outfits are made from fabric scraps(or appear to be), just
like many surviving originals.

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 3:44 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 18 century dolls by Peter Wolf


Here are links to the other 18th century fashion type dolls made by
Peter Wolf on the web site. These are great fun!
=20
=20
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg_=20
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg)=20
=20
_http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=3D2094_=20
(http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=3D2094)=20
=20
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg_=20
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg)=20
=20
_http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg_=20
(http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg)=20



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on
AOL=20
Home.     =20
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=3D15?ncid=3D=
aol
hom00030000000001)
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Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 18:51:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ball jointed dolls
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--- Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
wrote:

> I would be very curious to know how many of us on
> the list are now into BJDs.  
> 
> Danielle

I am currently clothing one of my bjds in 1880s style
clothing skin-out.  Her figure is reasonable for the
period, though a little flat chested.

Better than my own figure works, though I also am
making 1880s for me.  I have an 1830s figure.

What I'll do to dance. :)

Ann in CT


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The Tara brooch?
http://tinyurl.com/ywblmo

http://www.haverford.edu/engl/faculty/Sherman/Irish/brooch.htm

I'm not sure if it is the pin that is 7" long or that the brooch is 7" in
diameter.

-----Original Message-----
At 01:09 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:
>Be wary of exageration, too, of course. There's an
>early description of an Irish woman with a brooch the
>size of a dinner plate, which seems pretty unlikely. A
>buckler is fairly small, but still.
>
>Maggie


Yes, but I have seen Celtic broaches that ARE the size of a shield
boss.  That famous penanular-looking one, can't remember the name,
that is in the Irish Museum of Art.  (The same museum that the
Shinrone gown is in.)  That was at least six inches across.  My
shield boss isn't much bigger than that.

Though I won't argue that exaggeration is a very likely thing in some cases.

Genie


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Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century English Stumpwork Mirror Surround in SANQ
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Hello, I  was wondering if you would be able to forward this to anyone you 
think might be interested.  Our retaining wall fell (about 4 feet from back 
door) and its turned into huge, very expensive problem.

Ebay auction of the following:
ORIGINAL STUMPWORK MIRROR SURROUND by Nostalgic Needle
Ebay Item number: 250227899974 

This auction is for the one-of-a-kind original stumpwork mirror surround 
designed and stitched by Sharon Cohen of Nostalgic Needle.  The piece is featured 
on the cover of the Winter 2007 Sampler & Antique Needlework Magazine.  This 
intensive work of stumpwork was stitched in the manner of 17th Century English 
Stumpwork Mirror Surrounds and was accomplished by Sharon over a period of 
many years and features hundreds of thousands of stitches, every one worked with 
great care and love.  The embroidery is framed in a lovely gold toned wooden 
frame and has a mirror in the center in the traditions of old.

This special piece is a one of a kind embroidery by the artist and will 
feature documentation to the buyer's wishes to this effect.  The finished project 
measures 14 1/2" x 15 1/2" framed. 

Sharon Cohen has dozens of embroideries in private and public collections and 
this is her "masterwork" of the art of raised embroidery and she will never 
produce another one like it.




**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.
      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Armor question
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On Thursday 20 March 2008, otsisto wrote:
> The Tara brooch?
> http://tinyurl.com/ywblmo
>
> http://www.haverford.edu/engl/faculty/Sherman/Irish/brooch.htm
>
> I'm not sure if it is the pin that is 7" long or that the brooch is 7" in
> diameter.

It's the pin.  The brooch is large, but not *that* large.  I saw the original 
back when the Tara Brooch, the Chalice of Armagh, and some other Irish 
treasures were doing a US museum tour, about 20 years ago.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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At 09:53 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:
>The Tara brooch?
>http://tinyurl.com/ywblmo

That's the one.  My memory is that it's 5"-6" in diameter.

Genie  

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Okay, I know this is an unnecessary reply but,
=20
COOOOOL!!!!  Thanks!
Sg



> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 13:28:02 -0700> From: fran@lavoltapress.com> To: h=
-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history befor=
e?> CC: > > In the late 1860s there were various methods of looping up a sk=
irt with > ring/drawstring arrangements or buttons to make it look differen=
t over > an underskirt. My book _Reconstruction Era Fashions_ shows some of=
 them.> > In the 1880s it was common to "polonaise" tunics/long bodices, an=
d > overskirts, with ties (or sometimes with buttons); but an important > r=
eason was that the garment could be made much flatter to clean and > iron, =
than if it were permanently bunched up.=
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Subject: [h-cost] Twill Weave
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I bought some wool fabric with a twill weave off ebay recently, but the =
weave turned out to be much more open than I had hoped.  Does anyone =
know when open twill weaves started to be used, as opposed to tighter =
gabardines etc?

Thanks

Serena Dyer
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Wow, this is completely new to me!  Never heard of it.  Thanks for the fashion update!  
Sg



> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 11:18:11 -0700> From: fran@lavoltapress.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?> CC: > > I didn't even realize it was a dress, I was only interested in the > mechanics of the skirt.> > The modern "skirt tied together in places" look has been around for two > or three years. I've not only seen many examples, I've bought a couple > of dozen at least.> > There are many variants. The ties are usually twill tapes dyed to match > the fabric, but sometimes they are ribbons or strips made of the > fabric. Occasionally buttons and loops are used instead of ties. Usually > the skirt is long or calf-length, but sometimes it is knee length or so. > Usually it is pretty full to very full. Often it is a separate skirt, > but sometimes it is the skirt of a dress, a tunic top, or a 3/4-length > or longer coat or sweater/knit coat.> > Often the ties are meant to raise the skirt in a place or places, at > will. Sometimes!
  the skirt is made longer in back, on both sides, on one > side, or occasionally even in front. (However, it is not made long > enough to drag on the ground when not tied up, this not being very > convenient for modern wear.) When the ties are tied, the skirt is > leveled, more or less. But sometimes the skirt is made the same length > all around, and the ties raise it unevenly. Sometimes the ties create a > kind of bustle on the upper part of the skirt. Sometimes the ties are > meant to pull parts together across the skirt, narrowing it at will. One > simple variant where the sides of an A-line skirt are pulled across the > front and tied with the side "points" together, is called an apron skirt.> > I'm also seeing a lot of "roman shade" tie skirts (you pull the ties up > to ruche the skirt as much as desired at the bottom, and tie them > together), or permanently ruched or elasticized skirts that have the > same effect, except you can't un-ruche them.> > I believe the ins!
 piration for these styles is the late 1860s through the > 1880!
 s, but they are not attempts at historic recreation per se.> > Designers/manufacturers that have been producing these styles include > Ronen Chen (Israeli), Hanna/La Journee, Spirithouse, Surrealist, and > numerous others, especially some European manufacturers. Sometimes this > is marketed as part of a layered style called "lagenlook," which I > believe to be German for "layered look," but the term has caught on in > English to some extent. I see it a lot on eBay, especially with > international sellers--the "lagenlook" seems to be popular in both > Germany and England. XCVI Wearables has made a lot of the elasticized > ruched-up skirts.> > The full European "lagenlook" involves things like wearing a long skirt > and also either a shorter skirt or a tunic top, one or all of them tying > up in some way, and possibly a big drapey sweater on top of it all.> Websites that often carry skirts in the tied styles include > www.artfulwears.com and www.2chicboutique.com. Ebay seller!
 s that carry > it include guaranteed_authentic_ fashion (they specialize in drapey knit > versions of the lagenlook), and many others.> > Fran> Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns> http://www.lavoltapress.com> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Some of us make simple "costumes" for Parades.  We usually cover the 
bridle and reins with fabric or have a larger fancy saddle pad or 
flowers around the horses neck.
A friend dressed as Raggedy Ann and her horse was Andy.  She used a 
pair of old denim pants to fashion a pair of shorts for her horse's 
front legs.  They attached to his breastcollar.  She made leg wraps in 
a stripe for "socks".  A child's Sailor Hat attached to his bridle at 
the top of his head completed his costume.

Here we are at the Hambletonian Parade in NJ as Tropical Riders. It was 
JULY.  Notice I have a banner on the side of my horse and am riding 
sidesaddle.  My husband and his horse have flowers.  We are wearing 
shorts.  Not everyone dresses so silly.  ( See the woman behind us?   
She is in standard Western Show Attire.  Her horse is some sort of 
Champion.)


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Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 16, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

>  Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding =20
>  (if it isn't armour).
>
> Patty
>
> _______________________________________________________________________=20
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Have you been asking yourself
"Why should I go to San Jose for Costume-Con?"

Well, you should go to San Jose because Costume-Con is there. While  =

you're in San Jose, though, the Bay Area beckons with unique  =

opportunities for fun. If you're in to decadent food and beverage,  =

we've definitely got you covered.

Come out a day early. Check in to our hotel on Wednesday night,  =

because on Thursday morning (4/24) chocolate awaits!

It's about an hour's trip to Berkeley, but it's worth it. Scharffen  =

Berger Chocolate Maker is a first-tier chocolate manufacturer,  =

starting with the raw beans and controlling every step in the process  =

of making the best small-batch chocolate in the country. After the  =

tour, we'll take lunch at Caf=E9 Cacao, right in the Scharffen Berger  =

factory.

 From lunch we'll continue the short jaunt from Scharffen Berger to  =

St. George Spirits, a cradle of craft-distilling in the US. Located at  =

the northwest end of Naval Air Station Alameda (a site familiar to the  =

fans of Mythbusters) in an old hangar, St. George Spirits is classic  =

Schwartzwald, Germany transplanted to California. Under the St. George  =

name, J=F6rg, Lance and their crew distill eaux de vie, liqueuers and a  =

superb single-malt whisky. Their recent Absinthe release rocked the  =

spirits world. They're also well-known for distilling the "Hangar One"  =

series of flavored vodkas. In a partnership with John Scharffenberger,  =

they produce "Qi" tea liqueurs and "Essence of Cacao" perfume. Taste  =

carefully.

If a chocolate maker and a distiller aren't enough, you'll have to  =

wait until Tuesday (4/29). They're more than enough for any single day.

If you stay until Tuesday, you can ensure your California visit is  =

complete. Our Tuesday food & beverage tour is wine tasting. Forget  =

Napa and Sonoma, though; they're a long drive and expensive to boot.  =

Much closer to San Jose is the Livermore Valley, home to Lawrence  =

Livermore Labs and the oldest wine-growing region in California.

Livermore is still a town of boutique wineries where 5000 cases a year  =

is big production and folks squander their retirement making small  =

amounts of great wine. Bent Creek Winery is a great example of this,  =

run by best friends who retired from the Livermore School district,  =

and wizards with Syrah. Cedar Mountain Winery has been making wine a  =

bit longer, and this pair of retired physicists from Lawrence  =

Livermore Lab are well-known for their award winning Cabernet  =

Sauvignon and Merlot. Finally, it wouldn't be Livermore without  =

someone who retired from the wine business to run a winery, and Thomas  =

Coyne Winery, housed in the oldest standing winery in California, has  =

made a name working with ugly-duckling grapes like Malbec, Petit  =

Verdot and Mourv=E9dre. We'll be stopping at all three, and (like almost  =

every day in almost every tasting room in Livermore) the wine makers  =

will be present.

Please, plan to stay the extra days and enjoy the region. As the  =

convention approaches, we'll be working out the logistics of these  =

trips. If you're interested in going on either tour, email fbtours@cc26.org

On the web:
Costume-Con 26
http://www.cc26.info/

Scharffen Berger Chocolate Makers
http://www.scharffenberger.com/

Caf=E9 Cacao
http://www.cafecacao.biz/

St. George Spirits
http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/

Hangar One Vodka
http://www.hangarone.com/

Bent Creek Winery
http://www.bentcreekwinery.com/

Cedar Mountain Winery
http://www.wines.com/cedarmountain/cedarmtn.html

Thomas Coyne Winery
http://thomascoynewinery.com/
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Hi Robin,

I was wrong,_Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and 
Renaissance Portraits of Women_ does not have the Bronzino portrait you 
were asking about - it was a different green dress from that time period 
:-S I'm afraid I couldn't find a book with the portrait you're interested 
in.

Sorry!
        -sunny
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Was there supposed to be a link attached to this for a picture?  There was none.
Sg



> ( See the woman behind us? > She is in standard Western Show Attire. Her horse is some sort of > Champion.)> 
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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I got an inquiry from someone in South Carolina who wants an 1860s
wedding dress.  Does anyone know of a historical dressmaker anywhere
near South Carolina, or one who could do such a job long distance?
She says she's been looking but hasn't found anyone, but likes the
dresses she's seen on my site.  I can't take on such a job at the
moment, but said I'd ask around for a recommendation.  Thanks.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:56:43 -0400
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There was a photo.

I will post the photo under Pasovasz.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Mar 24, 2008, at 11:36 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> Was there supposed to be a link attached to this for a picture?  There =

> was none.
> Sg
>
>
>
>> ( See the woman behind us? > She is in standard Western Show Attire. =

>> Her horse is some sort of > Champion.)>
> _______________________________________________
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otsisto wrote:
> I seem to be catching the tail end of this so...if you are looking for a
> specific Bronzino painting, perhaps you can look here
> http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/bronzino_agnolo.html

Thanks -- I had posted an online unidentified image and asked for help 
identifying it (which a bunch of people were able to do instantly!). I 
did not know at the time it was Bronzino's, or I wouldn't have needed 
the clue!

I also asked where I might find a published version in a book, for 
purposes of making a (conventional) slide for a lecture. I think I'm 
covered in this case, as I've found another image that will serve as an 
example of my point even if the Bronzino doesn't turn up in published form.

It occurs to me that it might be useful at this point to repost these 
two links:

http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html
http://thread.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume/

Not terribly useful for conventional archive searching, but very useful 
if you miss some posts and want to go back and see the recent 
discussion. I use these sites a lot because I tend to delete threads 
that don't appear to be in my area of interest ... and then sometimes 
I'll catch a post later that makes me want to read the previous messages 
for context.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting ID
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I seem to be catching the tail end of this so...if you are looking for a
specific Bronzino painting, perhaps you can look here
http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/bronzino_agnolo.html

A mention of a Bronzino green dress, here are two
http://tinyurl.com/36o9od
http://festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor5.html

For Bronzino you are looking for the 1530s (roughly)

De
-----Original Message-----
Hi Robin,

I was wrong,_Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and
Renaissance Portraits of Women_ does not have the Bronzino portrait you
were asking about - it was a different green dress from that time period
:-S I'm afraid I couldn't find a book with the portrait you're interested
in.

Sorry!
        -sunny


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dressmakers in SC
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Hi,

I don't know if this helps but I found this web site some time ago and they
look like they could do this type of work:

http://www.originals-by-kay.com/

They are not in South Carolina but only a phone call away ;)


Sidney


On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 2:03 AM, Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> I got an inquiry from someone in South Carolina who wants an 1860s
> wedding dress.  Does anyone know of a historical dressmaker anywhere
> near South Carolina, or one who could do such a job long distance?
> She says she's been looking but hasn't found anyone, but likes the
> dresses she's seen on my site.  I can't take on such a job at the
> moment, but said I'd ask around for a recommendation.  Thanks.
>
> Katy
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 


Visit Sid's
"Classic Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Site"
http://z900.piczo.com/
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I can recommend Lynn Cogdill who lives in Spartanburg, SC. You may contact
her at nimbleneedlereproductions@charter.net

Carolann Schmitt


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Thanks!. :)

-----Original Message-----
It occurs to me that it might be useful at this point to repost these 
two links:

http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html
http://thread.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume/

Not terribly useful for conventional archive searching, but very useful 
if you miss some posts and want to go back and see the recent 
discussion. I use these sites a lot because I tend to delete threads 
that don't appear to be in my area of interest ... and then sometimes 
I'll catch a post later that makes me want to read the previous messages 
for context.

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 03:28:09 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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At 08:51 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:

>--- Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>
> > I would be very curious to know how many of us on
> > the list are now into BJDs.
> >
> > Danielle
>
>I am currently clothing one of my bjds in 1880s style
>clothing skin-out.  Her figure is reasonable for the
>period, though a little flat chested.
>
>Better than my own figure works, though I also am
>making 1880s for me.  I have an 1830s figure.
>
>What I'll do to dance. :)
>
>Ann in CT

I recognize your name from DoA. :-)  I'm planning on getting back to 
the 1780s red & white striped polonaise from the Kyoto Costume 
Institute (and book) for one of my BJDs (my Limhwa half-elf to be 
precise).  I have a red and white striped silk taffeta that is too 
narrow a stripe for me but, a perfect size for her.

I wish we had dance groups and the like out here in Minnesota but 
there isn't much besides the SCA.

Cheers,
Danielle (gilshallos on DoA)


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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Thanks.  I'll forward all this info to her.

Katy

On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 6:24 PM, Carolann Schmitt
<cschmitt@genteelarts.com> wrote:
> I can recommend Lynn Cogdill who lives in Spartanburg, SC. You may contact
>  her at nimbleneedlereproductions@charter.net
>
>  Carolann Schmitt
>
>
>
>
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Thanks.  I'll forward all this info to her.

Katy

On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 6:06 PM, S Young <sid.young@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
>  I don't know if this helps but I found this web site some time ago and they
>  look like they could do this type of work:
>
>  http://www.originals-by-kay.com/
>
>  They are not in South Carolina but only a phone call away ;)
>
>
>  Sidney
>
>
>
>
>  On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 2:03 AM, Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  > I got an inquiry from someone in South Carolina who wants an 1860s
>  > wedding dress.  Does anyone know of a historical dressmaker anywhere
>  > near South Carolina, or one who could do such a job long distance?
>  > She says she's been looking but hasn't found anyone, but likes the
>  > dresses she's seen on my site.  I can't take on such a job at the
>  > moment, but said I'd ask around for a recommendation.  Thanks.
>  >
>  > Katy
>  >
>  > --
>  > Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>  > katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
>  >     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>  >      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > h-costume mailing list
>  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  >
>
>
>
>  --
>
>
>  Visit Sid's
>  "Classic Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Site"
>  http://z900.piczo.com/
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
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I've just purchased the Period Impression Tea Bodice Pattern #403 and
am looking for examples in portraits etc. I've seen a few modern
examples, but nothing historical, and want to make sure that I make it
to the correct period. I can't find any examples in my godeys picture
collection either, but it is not too extensive. Does anyone here know
of any pictures that can help me in my research?
http://www.jamescountry.com/patterns/periodimpressions/new/ppi45.jpg
Many thanks, Aylwen
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That looks to be the picture from the 1863 bodice from Janet Arnolds
Patterns of Fashion, copied line for line except for the scallop decoration.
I don't know the pattern #403 or the company Period Impression, but that's
what you've got.

LynnD


On 3/25/08, Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I've just purchased the Period Impression Tea Bodice Pattern #403 and
> am looking for examples in portraits etc. I've seen a few modern
> examples, but nothing historical, and want to make sure that I make it
> to the correct period. I can't find any examples in my godeys picture
> collection either, but it is not too extensive. Does anyone here know
> of any pictures that can help me in my research?
> http://www.jamescountry.com/patterns/periodimpressions/new/ppi45.jpg
> Many thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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I should have asked if anyone has made this pattern - am I way off in my
opinion?
LynnD


On 3/25/08, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> That looks to be the picture from the 1863 bodice from Janet Arnolds
> Patterns of Fashion, copied line for line except for the scallop decoration.
> I don't know the pattern #403 or the company Period Impression, but that's
> what you've got.
>
> LynnD
>
>
>  On 3/25/08, Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > I've just purchased the Period Impression Tea Bodice Pattern #403 and
> > am looking for examples in portraits etc. I've seen a few modern
> > examples, but nothing historical, and want to make sure that I make it
> > to the correct period. I can't find any examples in my godeys picture
> > collection either, but it is not too extensive. Does anyone here know
> > of any pictures that can help me in my research?
> > http://www.jamescountry.com/patterns/periodimpressions/new/ppi45.jpg
> > Many thanks, Aylwen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

I haven't seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice, but I've hardly seen every surviving original garment from that time period.  My own experience with that pattern line is that they are basically modified modern patterns--the shoulder line, armscye, side seams, and back construction are not consistent with the cut of garments from the time periods they are attempting to portray, so I don't use this particular line.  I suppose it depends on if you're looking for a costume or want to make a reproduction that's consistent with extant clothing examples.   If you want to make a costume, it doesn't really matter.  If you want a reproduction piece consistent with the cut and tailoring of the time period, you won't get it from this pattern.

My nickel, for whatever it's worth.

LuAnn


> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:00:18 -0700
> From: lynndownward@gmail.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
> 
> I should have asked if anyone has made this pattern - am I way off in my
> opinion?
> LynnD
> 
> 
> On 3/25/08, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > That looks to be the picture from the 1863 bodice from Janet Arnolds
> > Patterns of Fashion, copied line for line except for the scallop decoration.
> > I don't know the pattern #403 or the company Period Impression, but that's
> > what you've got.
> >
> > LynnD
> >
> >
> >  On 3/25/08, Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've just purchased the Period Impression Tea Bodice Pattern #403 and
> > > am looking for examples in portraits etc. I've seen a few modern
> > > examples, but nothing historical, and want to make sure that I make it
> > > to the correct period. I can't find any examples in my godeys picture
> > > collection either, but it is not too extensive. Does anyone here know
> > > of any pictures that can help me in my research?
> > > http://www.jamescountry.com/patterns/periodimpressions/new/ppi45.jpg
> > > Many thanks, Aylwen
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I am currently researching costumes/clothing that would have been worn
by the Vendish people. Does anyone here know what they might have worn
as a special outfit that might now have been considered a folk
costume, considering they have now been assimilated into German
society.
Thanks, Aylwen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
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In a message dated 3/25/2008 7:01:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lynndownward@gmail.com writes:

I should  have asked if anyone has made this pattern - am I way off in  my
opinion?
LynnD



*****************
 
 
Yes. I have made the gown from "Patterns of Fashion"....using the book  as a 
guide [it was almost the right size] not a commercial pattern. It was for a  
film we did in Richmond for The Family Channel back in 1995 called "Tad"...  
about Abe Lincoln's young son and seeing the goings on in the White House during 
 the Civil War through his eyes. It was worn by actress Jean Louisa Kelly in 
the  role of Julia Taft.
 
That was an interesting project. I also made a Union general uniform for  the 
character of Tom Thumb.... that's right, for a midget. And a gown I made  
from cafe curtains ended up on Jane Curtin....which I still have and call "The  
Jane Curtin Curtain Dress".



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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In a message dated 3/25/2008 8:36:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

haven't  seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice


**************
 
Again....it is taken from an extant garment and completely worked out  by 
Janet Arnold in "Patterns of Fashion, vol. II"....it's the 1st gown in the  book. 
There is a complete pattern and a view of the inside of the bodice. Pages  20 
& 21.



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
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At 14:35 26/03/2008, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 3/25/2008 8:36:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>luann_mason@msn.com writes:
>
>haven't  seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice
>
>
>**************
>
>Again....it is taken from an extant garment and completely worked out  by
>Janet Arnold in "Patterns of Fashion, vol. II"....it's the 1st gown 
>in the  book.
>There is a complete pattern and a view of the inside of the bodice. Pages  20
>& 21.

I've actually seen this gown for real - and made a copy, using the 
Arnold pattern for a starter. The dress is rather an odd shape - the 
lady appears to have a 44" bust, and a very small waist, from what I 
remember - not noticeable in the drawings. It's a very pretty chine 
(sorry accent missing) silk, in a mauvey shade, and is very 
attractive. I would not call it a tea gown, just a day dress. Tea 
gowns, to me, are a much later fashion.

Suzi

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I have made the dress from Patterns of Fashion too; it was my first
Victorian costume - and didn't know I wasn't good enough to make it
correctly at the time. It did eventually fit and I wore it for 4-5 years at
the Dickens Fairs in San Francisco. That's why I recognized the picture so
quickly.

However, I meant that I had never made the PI pattern and wondered if anyone
had any experience with it and any of the other PI patterns.

LynnD


On 3/26/08, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
> At 14:35 26/03/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >In a message dated 3/25/2008 8:36:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> >luann_mason@msn.com writes:
> >
> >haven't  seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice
> >
> >
> >**************
> >
> >Again....it is taken from an extant garment and completely worked out  by
> >Janet Arnold in "Patterns of Fashion, vol. II"....it's the 1st gown
> >in the  book.
> >There is a complete pattern and a view of the inside of the bodice.
> Pages  20
> >& 21.
>
> I've actually seen this gown for real - and made a copy, using the
> Arnold pattern for a starter. The dress is rather an odd shape - the
> lady appears to have a 44" bust, and a very small waist, from what I
> remember - not noticeable in the drawings. It's a very pretty chine
> (sorry accent missing) silk, in a mauvey shade, and is very
> attractive. I would not call it a tea gown, just a day dress. Tea
> gowns, to me, are a much later fashion.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] [Reminder: CC26 Historical Masquerade Pre-registration]
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-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [GBACGCostumers] Reminder: CC26 Historical Masquerade 
Pre-registration
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:13:17 -0000
From: emfarrell.geo <emfarrell@earthlink.net>

Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade

Call for Entries

The Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade recognizes creativity,
scholarship, stage presentation, and workmanship skills in the context
of historical clothing. It celebrates the history of costume,
including all cultures, periods, and types of dress. "Historical
costume" is costume based on clothing that was worn or could have been
worn somewhere in the past of this world.

The Historical Masquerade will take place on Sunday, April 27th, 2008.
To enter the CC26 Historical you must be a member of CC26, as must all
models you may plan to use. We are expecting to have a particularly
large number of entries for this Costume-Con, as the Bay Area has so
many opportunities for historical costuming. Because of that, we would
like to encourage interested costumers to pre-register, even if you
only think you will have a garment completed in time. You can submit a
registration form, or contact the masquerade directors to express your
interest. Deadline for submission by mail: April 15th, 2008
(registration forms can be obtained on the Costume-Con 26 website).

Deadline for registration at the con: 8 p.m. Friday, April 25th, 2008,
but please don't wait in case we are unable to accept all submissions
due to space/time limitations.

Thanks, and we are looking forward to a very wonderful historical
masquerade at CC26!

Eleanor Farrell and Shelley Monson
Masquerade Directors

CC26 website: http://www.cc26.info
email: histmasq@cc26.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
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In a message dated 3/25/2008 5:41:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

I  haven't seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice, but I've  
hardly seen every surviving original garment from that time period.  My  own 
experience with that pattern line is that they are basically modified  modern 
patterns--the shoulder line, armscye, side seams, and back construction  are 
not consistent with the cut of garments from the time periods they are  
attempting to portray, so I don't use this particular line.  I suppose it  depends on 
if you're looking for a costume or want to make a reproduction  that's 
consistent with extant clothing examples.   If you want to  make a costume, it 
doesn't really matter.  If you want a reproduction  piece consistent with the cut 
and tailoring of the time period, you won't get  it from this pattern.



I second LuAnn's comment and would further add that if you are serious  about 
constructing a dress like this, you are better off drafting the pattern  from 
Patterns of Fashion 2 than using the Period Impressions.  The Period  
Impressions pattern is NOT copied line for line from the one in the book.   Be 
prepared, because a properly made reproduction isn't going to be cheap  and its a 
style that isn't highly common or appropriate for all  situations.  The original 
the pattern draft in the book was taken from is  silk, and one which would 
have been expensive even in its time, and IIRC the  dress is fully lined in silk 
as well.  There isn't really much of a way  around it--its a high fashion 
garment, made out of high end fabric, worn by a  woman who had the means to wear 
such things.
 
If you're willing to devote the time, money, and patience to recreating  this 
dress as it really should be, it would be kinda cool to see at some sort of  
indoor living history event if your impression is of a wealthy upper class 
lady  who regularly wears expensive, trendy clothing.  If, however, the draw to  
it is the trim emulating a jacket and you want a dress for at a battle  
reenactment, IMO you would be better served in making a dress of a lightweight  
(i.e. tropical weight, challis) wool dress with a regular high neckline and  
trimming it to look like there's a jacket.  The postillion back  wouldn't be 
inappropriate here, either.  This shows up in fashion plates,  but more importantly, 
you see it in CDVs and original garments.  That  would more common than the 
Watteau necked bodice in POF2, and would be more  serviceable for event wear, 
especially out of the lightweight wool depending on  what region of the country 
you're from.
 
The Period Impressions #403 is seen en masse at most events around the  
country, and 9.5 times out of 10 out of a cotton calico fabric.  Frankly,  they 
just look wrong to a trained eye because the style is taken out of its  context 
and made in the wrong fabric off a poorly drafted pattern and its being  worn 
in the wrong setting.  And to be more to the point, cotton doesn't  drape and 
fit a figure like a period silk would.  So like I said, if you  spend the money 
to make it out of silk, it would be downright gorgeous to see if  all of the 
variables fit to your impression.  But the style doesn't lend  itself to 
battle reenactments and after the investment you'd put into it you  probably 
wouldn't want to, either.
 
Just my $.02,
Joseph



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Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:17:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Hi all,

I am looking for some help, mostly because I am
finding only a few  
images of the following style of short over long
skirts (long kirtle, with short gown skirt) for the
early Henry VIII Tudor era. I am thinking that maybe
it may have been a medieval style, but I am barely
familiar with styles before the 1500s. So, I am hoping
others here might have insight into this particular
fashion design. This was also crossposted to SCA-Garb
LJ community & mailing list, so I apologize if seeing
it here is annoying.

So, is the following a Tudor or medieval fashion
style?

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/
MaryLouisXIIDtl5.jpg
(http://tinyurl.com/23j8o7 )

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/WithyAltrSUrsula1514.jpg
(http://tinyurl.com/23qzew )

I've been seeing shorter gown skirts over long kirtle
skirts in a couple of Tudor images. I believe Jane
Malcolm-Davies has one of her effigy images that is in
a shorter over long skirt style. I've checked her site
again, and her server is down for me. will check back
later). I knew of the image from the illumination,
which is why I scanned it in (the one on the left).
Another from an illumination is here:
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/H8StNicholasMaidens.html
(http://tinyurl.com/2yfyqz )

The first two images above are from 1514. Both are of
English subjects, but painted from outside of England.
First one is a detail from an illumination of Mary
Tudor (the French Queen) and King Louis XII of France
(illuminator unknown). This is one of the ladies in
waiting. The second is a side panel of an English
subject, a merchant tailor named Paul Withypool, as a
donor painting. The artist is Italian, Antonio da
Solario. This is from the side panel of the triptych
with St. Ursula (according to one web site description
of the triptych).

The image of the lady in waiting to Mary is what
started me on the hunt, ever since I saw it in one of
my history books on the Tudors a few years ago.

Is the image of St. Ursula complete fantasy? I have
been warned images of saints often are. Is the style
based on medieval styles? Since I don't know much
about medieval styles, could it have been a style seen
in earlier medieval images? Anyone know?

I am smitten by the St. Ursula image for some reason,
and want to reproduce it for SCA wearing (or Faire, if
it is Tudor appropriate). But me, the historical
costumer, am unwilling to break "the rules" and get
laughed at, for wearing what did not actually get worn
during the Pre-17th century time period. And while a
part of me is thinking of making & wearing it anyway,
I would prefer if I can somehow document it before I
take the time to make it. And if it is medieval, and
not Tudor, that's ok, too. And if it is pure fantasy
or "ancient" in style, I will deal.

Any suggestions, other images or links, and comments
are welcome, and appreciated.

Kimiko Small
www.kimiko1.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Those wrap around pants?
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Can anyone direct me to the name or a pattern of those baggy wrap around and tie at the waist pants you see at "ren" fairs?
 
Thanks,Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those wrap around pants?
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Oops, I should have googled first...these are not the Bali or Indian wrap arounds.  As I recall they had a drawstring at the bottom of the leg.
Sg



> From: wickedfrau@msn.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:54:05 -0700> Subject: [h-cost] Those wrap around pants?> > Can anyone direct me to the name or a pattern of those baggy wrap around and tie at the waist pants you see at "ren" fairs?> > Thanks,Sg> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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I'm fairly sure it isn't medieval -- I can't think of an example which 
shows a short skirt over a long one, although it should be noted that 
*many* people making modern versions of medieval clothing wear them this 
way*.  I'd be very interested to hear if anyone on your other email 
lists come up with a medieval source for it.  There are some cases where 
long skirts are tucked up showing the undertunic skirts, but that's not 
the same thing.

The jewels at the hem might be something only seen with saints' 
clothing.  Not sure -- perhaps Robin will opine on this one.

*In fact, one time I saw a group of women put on their shifts, then a 
long skirt, then a short nylon petticoat over the skirt, then a short 
overtunic, the petticoat serving to stop the shorter overtunic from 
riding up on the long skirt.

cv
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

> few images of short over long skirts (long kirtle,
> with short gown skirt) 
> 
> Kimiko Small

I see many images of short skirts over longer ones,
and every one is allegorical.

This doesn't count tucked-up skirts, like one of the
maidens in the St. Nicholas illumination you cite.

So, I suppose a tucked-up skirt later redrawn by one
of the many costume historians who didn't/don't "get
it" might show a short over long skirt arrangement not
on a Ste., Queen, Goddess, etc..

So, not "real", unless you were dressing for a real
Masque, like Drea's Queen of the Amazons on the
Elizabethan Costuming Page.

Ann in CT


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From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A plea for help
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I am busy making another renaissance dress for my daughter, so am
asking if anyone might be able to help me with some sewing.
Our dance group needs 15 white cotton blouses with full/puffed sleeves
to the elbow, elastic and then some lace that extends past the elbow.
It is a blouse similar to what the Hungarian, Polish & German female
dancers wear. I've seen some on square dance sites but there are too
many ruffles around the neck for us.
Thanks, Aylwen
Bordonian Heritage Dancers
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea Bodice question
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In a message dated 3/26/2008 4:49:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
MaisondeHadley@aol.com writes:

IMO you  would be better served in making a dress of a lightweight  
(i.e.  tropical weight, challis) wool dress with a regular high neckline and  
 
trimming it to look like there's a jacket. 


*****************
Or actually make a gown with a separate jacket. That  would offer you mare 
"looks" y'know...gowns sans jacket.... Skirt and blouse  with jacket....



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those wrap around pants?
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I think you mean "sarouelles." The Sarouelles Pattern #119 is available from Folkwear. Several styles are included.

Kathleen Norvell


-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 7:54 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Those wrap around pants?



Can anyone direct me to the name or a pattern of those baggy wrap around and tie 
at the waist pants you see at "ren" fairs?
 
Thanks,Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help
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Where are you and by when do you need them?
Sharon in California 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A plea for help

I am busy making another renaissance dress for my daughter, so am asking if
anyone might be able to help me with some sewing.
Our dance group needs 15 white cotton blouses with full/puffed sleeves to
the elbow, elastic and then some lace that extends past the elbow.
It is a blouse similar to what the Hungarian, Polish & German female dancers
wear. I've seen some on square dance sites but there are too many ruffles
around the neck for us.
Thanks, Aylwen
Bordonian Heritage Dancers
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Subject: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing
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I need some help (or you can translate this to "I'm feeling too lazy  =

to do the research myself right now").

I'm looking for two things:
	=95 Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm looking for  =

something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and  =

Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something  =

that the less-than-educated viewer will think "Oooh, old!" when they  =

see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts.  =

OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or PostScript.
	=95 Tudor & Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, handbills  =

and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources  =

preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online  =

collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might be  =

able to get to them.

Andy Trembley
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 10:51:13 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help
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We are in Australia but I buy a lot from the US. I would prefer to buy
from US or Australia, not the UKas our dollar is too weak against the
pound & euro.
I've found a few pictures of what we need. The bodice/waistcoat will
be black, blouse white cotton with cotton lace (so it can be bleached
later) and the full circle skirt purple with gold trim. Ideally bodice
black wool, but that may be too expensive, so a solid cotton twill
lined with cotton, black eyelets for lacing up. If anyone cares to
quote for a whole outfit that would be fantastic. We need 15 of these
but have a limited budget, so we can sew trim on to save costs & hem
the skirts. I have to pay for all this myself as the students can't
afford it. If I can pay off in instalments that would be perfect, and
we'd need to do one as a dummy run to make sure its okay. I'm happy to
pay for that one as well. We need to have these done by the end of
July, so there is not much time. We want to use them in August and
will be touring to New Zealand in September.
http://costumes.lovetoknow.com/images/Costumes/0/0d/National_costumes.jpg
http://www.pirkadat.org/photos/20041209/cp5+.jpg
http://www.dvorana.cz/costumes_jp/turnov/tur-celek-1.jpg
Cheers, Aylwen
ps. so we get this off the list, please reply to my email at aylwengg@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help
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Also, we've just thought to save time/costs we can use our cancan
skirts as the skirts. The girls love their weight and swoosh.
Aylwen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear  was: A plea for help
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These look to be German/Austrian folkwear. Were Germans or Austrians a
predominant immigrant nation in your area?
dirndl
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Dirndl.jpg
http://www.dirndl-dress.com/dirndlhistory.php
http://www.lederhosen-aigner.de/html/dirndl.html
http://www.dirndls.com/
http://www.mydirndl.com/12832/index.html

-----Original Message-----
http://costumes.lovetoknow.com/images/Costumes/0/0d/National_costumes.jpg
http://www.pirkadat.org/photos/20041209/cp5+.jpg
http://www.dvorana.cz/costumes_jp/turnov/tur-celek-1.jpg
Cheers, Aylwen
ps. so we get this off the list, please reply to my email at
aylwengg@gmail.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear was: A plea for help
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Our group is not completely historical, its a long story.......
but elements of our history are actually Wend/Sorb.
We have the pleasure of making the Bordonian National Costume for the
first time.
If you want to hear the whole story, I am happy to discuss it offline,
but its all documented in some dance books my husband published
recently.
Cheers4now, Aylwen
htp://www.bordonia.org

On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:44 AM, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> These look to be German/Austrian folkwear. Were Germans or Austrians a
>  predominant immigrant nation in your area?
>  dirndl
>  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Dirndl.jpg
>  http://www.dirndl-dress.com/dirndlhistory.php
>  http://www.lederhosen-aigner.de/html/dirndl.html
>  http://www.dirndls.com/
>  http://www.mydirndl.com/12832/index.html
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  http://costumes.lovetoknow.com/images/Costumes/0/0d/National_costumes.jpg
>  http://www.pirkadat.org/photos/20041209/cp5+.jpg
>  http://www.dvorana.cz/costumes_jp/turnov/tur-celek-1.jpg
>  Cheers, Aylwen
>  ps. so we get this off the list, please reply to my email at
>  aylwengg@gmail.com
>
>
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing
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Try "Blackadder" font -- always looks "old" or "Rennaissance-ish".

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing


I need some help (or you can translate this to "I'm feeling too lazy
to do the research myself right now").

I'm looking for two things:
	=95 Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm looking for
something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and
Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something
that the less-than-educated viewer will think "Oooh, old!" when they
see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts.
OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or PostScript.
	=95 Tudor & Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, handbills
and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources
preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online
collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might be
able to get to them.

Andy Trembley
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Google "Jeff Lee's website"

Jeff has some lovely late period fonts you can download for free.

Arlys

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 15:15:02 -0700 Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
writes:
> I need some help (or you can translate this to "I'm feeling too lazy  
> 
> to do the research myself right now").
> 
> I'm looking for two things:
> 	• Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm 
> looking for  
> something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and  
> Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something  
> 
> that the less-than-educated viewer will think "Oooh, old!" when they 
>  
> see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts. 
>  
> OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or 
> PostScript.
> 	• Tudor & Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, 
> handbills  
> and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources  
> 
> preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online  
> collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might 
> be  
> able to get to them.
> 
> Andy Trembley
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 23:40:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Thank you Ann,

If you happen to have links to those images, or know
of a book source with some, please let me know off
list. I am going to collect them, so I can try to
learn what's going on.

And I could always make it up as a masque dress...
masques were quite popular in Henry's court, and from
what I am reading, those masquers got to keep their
custom made outfits after the masque.

Kimiko


--- Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I see many images of short skirts over longer ones,
> and every one is allegorical.
> <snip>
> So, not "real", unless you were dressing for a real
> Masque, like Drea's Queen of the Amazons on the
> Elizabethan Costuming Page.
> 
> Ann in CT



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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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--- Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org> wrote:
><anip> I'd be very interested to hear if anyone on
> your other email 
> lists come up with a medieval source for it. 


Thank you Cynthia. I am getting a few links, mostly
16th c., a few medieval (but on the longer end of
short), and will be collecting them, then putting them
on a page so I can sort through them and figure this
thing out. I will post here when I do.

Kimiko





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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 04:12:11 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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 Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Can I just add that anyone who doesn't have a copy of this marvellous
> book should really think about getting one as a standard reference if
> they work on the 16th century, much like Janet Arnold's. I've had my
> copy for about 8 years now, and it's one of the most useful books
> I've ever had (

After reading the information above I went to the David Brown site to order
another softback.  Sadly they came back "haven't any more".  I cried, I
whined, I send pleas directly to Ian Stevens their friendly marketing
director who just happened to be in England at the moment.  He sent our into
the dim reaches of Oxbow books warehouse and unearthed the last 5 copies
they had.

I say Had because I now have them.  They are $70 each because David Brown
charged $65 plus $5 shipping.  If you want one I can let you have it for
that plus the amount it will cost to media mail (or other, contact me) it to
you.  I'm also trying to get my hands on some others that aren't perfect,
but can be made to have all the information.

Now this is not an attempt to undercut either Oxbow, David Brown (my
favorite form of Crack), or Mr. and Mrs. Bean.  I desperately want this book
back in print.  The thing is that I believe that it would sell slowly but
steadily in about 200 copies per year (or am I under/over estimating?).
David Brown would be happy to handle the selling if it had the opportunity.

Buying copies to the Editor/Translator/book publisher get money for more
copies and Royalties for all their hard work is the only way to get this
done.

Anyway, if anyone wants a copy now, let me know and we can probably make a
deal.  Like Hilary, this is a book I wouldn't be without.  The patterns are
to scale and really work.  It isn't a book for a new sewer.  It may not even
be a book for someone who hasn't worked with period style patterns before.
Took me years to figure out what was going on with some of them, but then
it's a Eureka! moment.

Regina Romsey.
P.S.  If you live in England or a European country, you might try and
contact Mrs. Bean directly.  If they have more copies available themselves,
I'm sure they would be happy to sell too!
e:
> >
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing
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For those of you in the area of Sturbridge, MA. 
    Jeanine


Last month to get cheap trim

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Joyce Parker [mailto:JParker@Wrights.com]
*Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:48 PM
*To:* Joyce Parker
*Subject:* FACTORY OUTLET

Faithful Customers and Friends:

We are sorry to announce that the Factory Outlet will be closing.  We do 
not have a definite date yet so we will continue as usual until a 
decision is made.

We are happy to say we are going forward with our spring fabric sale and 
will include all store inventory in the sale.  Yes, even the closeout 
merchandise.  Imagine the savings!  Better yet everything will be 
reduced by 25% at the register. We are also extending the time.  The 
sale will continue through April 25^th *.**  Remember April 1**^st ** 
-25**^th **, 25% off.*  Post the flyer below on your frig to remind you.

Joyce Parker

Manager       

                                                                                  
                                     *FACTORY 
OUTLET *                                        
                                                                                       
                                                 
*OUR ANNUAL SPRING SALE BEGINS  *
*APRIL 1st      *

                                            
*IS SPECIAL     *
*_ALL STORE MERCHANDISE  _*
*25% OFF        *
                                       
                                       
                                       
NO FURTHER DISCOUNTS ALLOWED   

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing
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Arrrggghhhhh!!!! One of my very favorite places to shop!? More fun than a candy store!? I used to make a detour to stop there if I was anywhere in the vicinity.? So, yes, anyone who lives in the area--go once, twice, as many times as you can before they close.

Ann Wass

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeanine Swick <jeanine@woollycat.net>
To: ICG-D@yahoogroups.com; F-Costume@yahoogroups.com; Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 10:18 am
Subject: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing



For those of you in the area of Sturbridge, MA. 
    Jeanine


Last month to get cheap trim

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Joyce Parker [mailto:JParker@Wrights.com]
*Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:48 PM
*To:* Joyce Parker
*Subject:* FACTORY OUTLET

Faithful Customers and Friends:

We are sorry to announce that the Factory Outlet will be closing.  We do 
not have a definite date yet so we will continue as usual until a 
decision is made.

We are happy to say we are going forward with our spring fabric sale and 
will include all store inventory in the sale.  Yes, even the closeout 
merchandise.  Imagine the savings!  Better yet everything will be 
reduced by 25% at the register. We are also extending the time.  The 
sale will continue through April 25^th *.**  Remember April 1**^st ** 
-25**^th **, 25% off.*  Post the flyer below on your frig to remind you.

Joyce Parker

Manager       

                                                                                  

                                     *FACTORY 
OUTLET *                                        
                                                                                       

                                                 
*OUR ANNUAL SPRING SALE BEGINS  *
*APRIL 1st      *

                                            
*IS SPECIAL     *
*_ALL STORE MERCHANDISE  _*
*25% OFF        *
                                       
                                       
                                       
NO FURTHER DISCOUNTS ALLOWED   

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Subject: [h-cost] Reminder: Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade
	Pre-registration
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Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade

Call for Entries

The Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade recognizes creativity,
scholarship, stage presentation, and workmanship skills in the context
of historical clothing. It celebrates the history of costume, including
all cultures, periods, and types of dress. "Historical costume" is
costume based on clothing that was worn or could have been worn
somewhere in the past of this world.

The Historical Masquerade will take place on Sunday, April 27th, 2008.
To enter the CC26 Historical you must be a member of CC26, as must all
models you may plan to use. We are expecting to have a particularly
large number of entries for this Costume-Con, as the Bay Area has so
many opportunities for historical costuming. Because of that, we would
like to encourage interested costumers to pre-register, even if you
only think you will have a garment completed in time. You can submit a
registration form, or contact the masquerade directors to express your
interest. Deadline for submission by mail: April 15th, 2008
(registration forms can be obtained on the Costume-Con 26 website).

Deadline for registration at the con: 8 p.m. Friday, April 25th, 2008,
but please don't wait in case we are unable to accept all submissions
due to space/time limitations.

Thanks, and we are looking forward to a very wonderful historical
masquerade at CC26!

Eleanor Farrell and Shelley Monson
Masquerade Directors

CC26 website: http://www.cc26.info
email: histmasq@cc26.org

Please feel free to repost this announcement.... thanks!

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:05:38 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
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As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you can join to talk about these dolls?

Thanks in advance

Bjarne
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <47ECFE4C.9060707@woollycat.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing
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Bummer!!!!!! Next to the Brimfield summer session, my annual shopping in 
northern Ma has been a longtime haunt for costume trim.  Always great 
bargains for trims and notions and the unusual find.  And wo could beat the 
automatic markdowns.
SIGH

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <annbwass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <JKWAssociates@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing


>
> Arrrggghhhhh!!!! One of my very favorite places to shop!? More fun than a 
> candy store!? I used to make a detour to stop there if I was anywhere in 
> the vicinity.? So, yes, anyone who lives in the area--go once, twice, as 
> many times as you can before they close.
>
> Ann Wass
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeanine Swick <jeanine@woollycat.net>
> To: ICG-D@yahoogroups.com; F-Costume@yahoogroups.com; Historic Costume 
> <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 10:18 am
> Subject: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing
>
>
>
> For those of you in the area of Sturbridge, MA.
>    Jeanine
>
>
> Last month to get cheap trim
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Joyce Parker [mailto:JParker@Wrights.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:48 PM
> *To:* Joyce Parker
> *Subject:* FACTORY OUTLET
>
> Faithful Customers and Friends:
>
> We are sorry to announce that the Factory Outlet will be closing.  We do
> not have a definite date yet so we will continue as usual until a
> decision is made.
>
> We are happy to say we are going forward with our spring fabric sale and
> will include all store inventory in the sale.  Yes, even the closeout
> merchandise.  Imagine the savings!  Better yet everything will be
> reduced by 25% at the register. We are also extending the time.  The
> sale will continue through April 25^th *.**  Remember April 1**^st **
> -25**^th **, 25% off.*  Post the flyer below on your frig to remind you.
>
> Joyce Parker
>
> Manager
>
>
>
>                                     *FACTORY
> OUTLET *
>
>
>
> *OUR ANNUAL SPRING SALE BEGINS  *
> *APRIL 1st      *
>
>
> *IS SPECIAL     *
> *_ALL STORE MERCHANDISE  _*
> *25% OFF        *
>
>
>
> NO FURTHER DISCOUNTS ALLOWED
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Is this your site?
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/bordonia.htm

-----Original Message-----
Our group is not completely historical, its a long story.......
but elements of our history are actually Wend/Sorb.
We have the pleasure of making the Bordonian National Costume for the
first time.
If you want to hear the whole story, I am happy to discuss it offline,
but its all documented in some dance books my husband published
recently.
Cheers4now, Aylwen
htp://www.bordonia.org



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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Bjarne:

I searched for ball jointed dolls+groups on Yahoo and there are several
groups as well. Check out:
 www.denofangels.com for lots of information on BJDs. U.S. Doll
magazines Haute Doll and FDQ carry lots of info on BJD's as well.

She isn't exactly a BJD, but I started collecting(if two dolls is
collecting}a multi-jointed doll called Momoko. She is 1/6 scale and 10
1/2" tall. A dainty 5'3" in comparison to Barbie's more substantial U.S.
beef fed 5'9" in real scale. Originally Japanese made, she is now
produced in China, which has cut her price 1/3 - 1/2 of the Japan
Petworks dolls, and increased production numbers.

Volks dolls in Japan is the Holy Grail of most BJD fans--you can have a
doll custom made for about $700 and up in U.S. dolls. There is also a
U.S. showroom and production center in California.

Hope this helps!!

Cindy Abel



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls

As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you
can join to talk about these dolls?

Thanks in advance

Bjarne
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Dear Cindy,
Thanks a lot!

The one i have is a Volks Super Dolfie.

Bjarne  


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls


> Bjarne:
> 
> I searched for ball jointed dolls+groups on Yahoo and there are several
> groups as well. Check out:
> www.denofangels.com for lots of information on BJDs. U.S. Doll
> magazines Haute Doll and FDQ carry lots of info on BJD's as well.
> 
> She isn't exactly a BJD, but I started collecting(if two dolls is
> collecting}a multi-jointed doll called Momoko. She is 1/6 scale and 10
> 1/2" tall. A dainty 5'3" in comparison to Barbie's more substantial U.S.
> beef fed 5'9" in real scale. Originally Japanese made, she is now
> produced in China, which has cut her price 1/3 - 1/2 of the Japan
> Petworks dolls, and increased production numbers.
> 
> Volks dolls in Japan is the Holy Grail of most BJD fans--you can have a
> doll custom made for about $700 and up in U.S. dolls. There is also a
> U.S. showroom and production center in California.
> 
> Hope this helps!!
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:06 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
> 
> As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you
> can join to talk about these dolls?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Researching Folk Costumes
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Hi Aylwen,

I just did a very very superficial check on Geman =

sites. In short, I found out that the Vendish =

were a Slavic tribe/people and closely related to =

the Sorbs. There is still a minority in eastern =

Germany. Vendish and Sorbish appear to have the =

same roots, but during the GDR the Sorbish =

culture was pampered while the Vendish were =

neglected, so that there is more information =

about the Sorbish than the Vendish. So says  the =

website of the Vendish minority, unfortunately in =

German only, but they might answer an English inquiry. http://www.diewenden=
.de/
But perhaps the Sorbish can help you with what =

you are looking for? This site has information in =

English: http://sorben.com/sorb2/
Then there=B4s a region called "Wendland" in =

Germany which has villages in a traditional =

Vendish shape, the "Rundlingsdorf". One of them =

has a village museum in one of the old =

farmhouses. They might have information about =

costume in that area, however they appear to have =

mostly 19. century things: =

http://www.luechow.de/index.htm?baum_id=3D5154&inhalt_id=3D112641 =

If the link does not work directly, here=B4s the =

museum=B4s contact address: rundlingsmuseum@elbtalaue-wendland.de

Hope this helps,
Hanna

At 02:15 26.03.2008, you wrote:
>I am currently researching costumes/clothing that would have been worn
>by the Vendish people. Does anyone here know what they might have worn
>as a special outfit that might now have been considered a folk
>costume, considering they have now been assimilated into German
>society.
>Thanks, Aylwen
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
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Popping out of lurking.

I'll contact Bjarne off-list and fill him in on some fun places onlineto discuss BJD's.. But I also request that this discussion be droppedfrom the list, since it's so waaaaaay off topic. :)

Cindy: Momoko has ball joints and therefore is, technicially, a BJD (some people prefer ABJD for Asian Ball-Jointed Doll). There's a bit of an elitist attitude out there that if the doll isn't cast resin, 60cm or 42cm tall doll in the style of the Volks Dollfie that it' isn't a BJD, and shouldn't be included in BJD discussions. Others, though, are far more inclusive, and are happy to talk about Momoko, Syberites, and Tonner's Ellowyne Wilde.

I know you're generalizing, but I will raise my hand in saying that Volks dolls are not my own holy grail. I personally am a bigger fan of more realistic sculpts, such as those made by Elfdoll. Volks  dolls happen to be the most expensive in their size classes. You can find similar dolls for hundreds of dollars less, and if that's still too rich for you, you can go down in size to 42cm (aka MSD), and even smaller sizes (I have several that are only around 5" tall).

To wrestle in at least a little on-topic commentary: as other's have mentioned, BJD's are great to sew for because they have very correct proportions, except for their ridiculously long legs. Ok, some also have ridiculously large boobs. There's a couple of folks out there doing historic clothes and shoes for these dolls, and some of the doll clothing companies have been doing psuedo-historical stuff for a while. Ellowyne Wilde and her size counterpart Evangeline Ghastly have some really nifty, psuedo-Victorian outfits. If you're interested in more information, contact me off-list.

And now back to lurking. :)



Claudine
(playing with BJD's since 2005 :)  )

----- Original Message ----
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:52:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls

Bjarne:

I searched for ball jointed dolls+groups on Yahoo and there are several
groups as well. Check out:
 www.denofangels.com for lots of information on BJDs. U.S. Doll
magazines Haute Doll and FDQ carry lots of info on BJD's as well.

She isn't exactly a BJD, but I started collecting(if two dolls is
collecting}a multi-jointed doll called Momoko. She is 1/6 scale and 10
1/2" tall. A dainty 5'3" in comparison to Barbie's more substantial U.S.
beef fed 5'9" in real scale. Originally Japanese made, she is now
produced in China, which has cut her price 1/3 - 1/2 of the Japan
Petworks dolls, and increased production numbers.

Volks dolls in Japan is the Holy Grail of most BJD fans--you can have a
doll custom made for about $700 and up in U.S. dolls. There is also a
U.S. showroom and production center in California.

Hope this helps!!

Cindy Abel



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls

As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you
can join to talk about these dolls?

Thanks in advance

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls-groups
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OurSilentFriends/
 
This is a VERY active group.  Lots of great pictures and discussions.
Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
Sharon Collier 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 5:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

 Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Can I just add that anyone who doesn't have a copy of this marvellous 
> book should really think about getting one as a standard reference if 
> they work on the 16th century, much like Janet Arnold's. I've had my 
> copy for about 8 years now, and it's one of the most useful books I've 
> ever had (

After reading the information above I went to the David Brown site to order
another softback.  Sadly they came back "haven't any more".  I cried, I
whined, I send pleas directly to Ian Stevens their friendly marketing
director who just happened to be in England at the moment.  He sent our into
the dim reaches of Oxbow books warehouse and unearthed the last 5 copies
they had.

I say Had because I now have them.  They are $70 each because David Brown
charged $65 plus $5 shipping.  If you want one I can let you have it for
that plus the amount it will cost to media mail (or other, contact me) it to
you.  I'm also trying to get my hands on some others that aren't perfect,
but can be made to have all the information.

Now this is not an attempt to undercut either Oxbow, David Brown (my
favorite form of Crack), or Mr. and Mrs. Bean.  I desperately want this book
back in print.  The thing is that I believe that it would sell slowly but
steadily in about 200 copies per year (or am I under/over estimating?).
David Brown would be happy to handle the selling if it had the opportunity.

Buying copies to the Editor/Translator/book publisher get money for more
copies and Royalties for all their hard work is the only way to get this
done.

Anyway, if anyone wants a copy now, let me know and we can probably make a
deal.  Like Hilary, this is a book I wouldn't be without.  The patterns are
to scale and really work.  It isn't a book for a new sewer.  It may not even
be a book for someone who hasn't worked with period style patterns before.
Took me years to figure out what was going on with some of them, but then
it's a Eureka! moment.

Regina Romsey.
P.S.  If you live in England or a European country, you might try and
contact Mrs. Bean directly.  If they have more copies available themselves,
I'm sure they would be happy to sell too!
e:
> >
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help
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I happen to have living with me a German exchange student, (is that
serendipitous, or what?) so if you don't have anyone to translate the
Vendish site, I will ask her to do it.
Sharon Collier 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help

We are in Australia but I buy a lot from the US. I would prefer to buy from
US or Australia, not the UKas our dollar is too weak against the pound &
euro.
I've found a few pictures of what we need. The bodice/waistcoat will be
black, blouse white cotton with cotton lace (so it can be bleached
later) and the full circle skirt purple with gold trim. Ideally bodice black
wool, but that may be too expensive, so a solid cotton twill lined with
cotton, black eyelets for lacing up. If anyone cares to quote for a whole
outfit that would be fantastic. We need 15 of these but have a limited
budget, so we can sew trim on to save costs & hem the skirts. I have to pay
for all this myself as the students can't afford it. If I can pay off in
instalments that would be perfect, and we'd need to do one as a dummy run to
make sure its okay. I'm happy to pay for that one as well. We need to have
these done by the end of July, so there is not much time. We want to use
them in August and will be touring to New Zealand in September.
http://costumes.lovetoknow.com/images/Costumes/0/0d/National_costumes.jpg
http://www.pirkadat.org/photos/20041209/cp5+.jpg
http://www.dvorana.cz/costumes_jp/turnov/tur-celek-1.jpg
Cheers, Aylwen
ps. so we get this off the list, please reply to my email at
aylwengg@gmail.com _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear was: A plea for help
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Yes, although the sources page is missing. I will get it back up later.
It all starts at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/bordonia2.htm
Its been amazing how many dancers here have adopted the Bordonian identity.
Cheers, Aylwen

On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:44 AM, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> Is this your site?
>  http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/bordonia.htm
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  Our group is not completely historical, its a long story.......
>  but elements of our history are actually Wend/Sorb.
>  We have the pleasure of making the Bordonian National Costume for the
>  first time.
>  If you want to hear the whole story, I am happy to discuss it offline,
>  but its all documented in some dance books my husband published
>  recently.
>  Cheers4now, Aylwen
>  htp://www.bordonia.org
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white
on off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without
embroidering them all.
So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those
flowers.  I know that there are special paints that are typically used
on silk, but I was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
using these on silk fabric?  This gown will be worn occasionally -
maybe two or three times a year at most, and I expect it to be hand
washed only when it needs it.

thanks
alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Acrylic will make it stiff.

-----Original Message-----
I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white
on off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without
embroidering them all.
So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those
flowers.  I know that there are special paints that are typically used
on silk, but I was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
using these on silk fabric?  This gown will be worn occasionally -
maybe two or three times a year at most, and I expect it to be hand
washed only when it needs it.

thanks
alex


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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I once added colour to trim by hand painting it with regular dye - it was 
highly successful.
Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 
> -----Original Message-----
> I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
> invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white
> on off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without
> embroidering them all.
> So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those
> flowers.  I know that there are special paints that are typically used
> on silk, but I was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
> watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
> using these on silk fabric?  This gown will be worn occasionally -
> maybe two or three times a year at most, and I expect it to be hand
> washed only when it needs it.
>
> thanks
> alex
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Having gotten way too much paint on my clothes over the years, (I paint
sets, I can tell you that acrylics do not easily wash out. Plus, they go
through the washer and dryer. I've washed my paint clothes loads of times.
Try the wash/paint technique first, because they do add stiffness.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Adding color to silk

I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white on
off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without embroidering
them all.
So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those flowers.  I
know that there are special paints that are typically used on silk, but I
was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
using these on silk fabric?  This gown will be worn occasionally - maybe two
or three times a year at most, and I expect it to be hand washed only when
it needs it.

thanks
alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Alexandria Doyle wrote:
> So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those
> flowers.  I know that there are special paints that are typically used
> on silk, but I was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
> watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
> using these on silk fabric? 

I have used Dy-na-flow on silk. I got a set of about ten colors for 
about $15 online, but they are also readily available in craft and 
fabric stores. I used the brights set, but got pastel results. My yellow 
and pink came out nice, I had trouble getting a good orange down, and 
the darker blue and purples just washed out.  The colors bleed, so if 
you wanted it to stay in one place you need to put down a wax or 
something like they show on the silk painting websites to outline your 
shape. Once it dries it is colorfast.

I've also used Tulip Color Spray, which is more of a paint than a dye. I 
got good color with the blues and greens I used, but the result was a 
bit stiff. This stuff also bleeds and spreads, if that's not the effect 
you want you need to outline it with something.

My experience with acrylic paint on fabric is that fabric readily takes 
the paint and holds it well. You wouldn't think water based paint is 
hard to remove, but it is. The fabric will be stiff where it has been 
painted, it's essentially a layer of plastic. The advantage is that it 
won't spread after it's applied, and you have pretty good control with a 
brush in putting it exactly where you want it for detail.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Having done a certain amount of fabric painting in my youth, dilute 
acrylic paints a bit so they sink into the fabric and are more flexible. 
There's medium you can buy to add that's specifically for fabric, but I 
never noticed that it made much of a difference.

Jen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
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On Mar 28, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Dear Cindy,
> Thanks a lot!
>
> The one i have is a Volks Super Dolfie.

A bit of a warning... most of the online doll communities I know of  
have a pretty high drama quotient.

andy
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:59:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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I seriously suggest using the medium if one wants to
paint with acrylics on fabric. Acrylic will flake or
peal over time, and the medium helps to prevent that.
I lost my favorite theatre stage hands shirt because
we didn't know that when we painted them with watered
down, but straight acrylics.

Kimiko


--- "Pixel, Goddess and Queen"
<pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com> wrote:

> There's medium you can buy to add that's
> specifically for fabric, but I 
> never noticed that it made much of a difference.
> 
> Jen



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Ann Catelli wrote:
> --- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>   
>> few images of short over long skirts (long kirtle,
>> with short gown skirt) 
>>
>> Kimiko Small
>>     
>
> I see many images of short skirts over longer ones,
> and every one is allegorical.
>
> This doesn't count tucked-up skirts, like one of the
> maidens in the St. Nicholas illumination you cite.
>
> So, I suppose a tucked-up skirt later redrawn by one
> of the many costume historians who didn't/don't "get
> it" might show a short over long skirt arrangement not
> on a Ste., Queen, Goddess, etc..
>
> So, not "real", unless you were dressing for a real
> Masque, like Drea's Queen of the Amazons on the
> Elizabethan Costuming Page.
>
> Ann in CT
>   
Mary Tudor's lady in waiting, and the girl on the right in the St 
Nicholas picture, don't appear to be tucking up their skirts in any way.
 (In the St Nicholas, I can't tell what her hands are doing, but her 
apron is lying flat).  I'm intrigued, if this is allegorical or an 
artistic convention,
why did artists want to show shorter skirts like that?  Is it just that 
she's so poor, she's grown out of her gown ;-) ?

Jean

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Can you find a site with the St. Nick painting?
It is possible (without seeing the painting) that it could be a wide guard
or a replacement of a worn hem with different available material.
De
-----Original Message-----
Mary Tudor's lady in waiting, and the girl on the right in the St
Nicholas picture, don't appear to be tucking up their skirts in any way.
 (In the St Nicholas, I can't tell what her hands are doing, but her
apron is lying flat).  I'm intrigued, if this is allegorical or an
artistic convention,
why did artists want to show shorter skirts like that?  Is it just that
she's so poor, she's grown out of her gown ;-) ?

Jean


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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That is the complete image I scanned in of that part
of the triptych, so anything further was not painted
(or has not survived). This is the full image I have.
http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/?action=3Dv=
iew&current=3DWithypoolAltr1514.jpg
( http://tinyurl.com/3ybmpy )

I have found the effigy monument that shows a short
gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
The woman:
http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/?action=3Dv=
iew&current=3D95_main.jpg
( http://tinyurl.com/2kp5ay )
The view of her hem:
http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/?action=3Dv=
iew&current=3D95_137_main.jpg
( http://tinyurl.com/2kwfxq )

There is an interesting little note that Jane provided
with that image.
"The top layer (the gown) is shorter than the under
layer (the kirtle). This was described as
characteristic of Englishwomen's dress by the Venetian
ambassador in 1554 (quoted in Carter, A [1984] =93Mary
Tudor=92s Wardrobe=94 in Costume, 18, 20)."

This is part of what has spurred my search. I am
wondering just how short those gown skirts got.

Kimiko


--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Can you find a site with the St. Nick painting?
> It is possible (without seeing the painting) that it
> could be a wide guard
> or a replacement of a worn hem with different
> available material.
> De



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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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You would wonder, except she's got enough jewels on
her to buy a longer gown; so she must not be that
poor. But then, it is a Saint. It may represent
something I don't understand about her story or why
she and 11,000 virgins were all killed by the Huns
(maybe they dressed "provocatively" with these
demi-skirted gowns.)
{I am trying to be funny, and it is failing badly -
sorry}

Kimiko


--- Jean Waddie <waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<snip>
> apron is lying flat).  I'm intrigued, if this is
> allegorical or an 
> artistic convention,
> why did artists want to show shorter skirts like
> that?  Is it just that 
> she's so poor, she's grown out of her gown ;-) ?
> 
> Jean



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Surely, with all the "painted silk" scarves and such around, there is an  
acrylic-like dye just for silks, and a medium for making it whatever consistency  
you want. Have you e-mailed or called the folks at Dharma Trading Co. ?
 
Dharmatrading.com
 
And depending on how intricate you get.... it might take just as long a  
embroidery. :-P
 
I saw someone do this to white on white embroidery on a fringed piano shawl  
with permanent markers.... the kind designers and illustrators use. They come 
in  every color known to man, but are used up quickly on fabric. They bleed a  
little....it really depends on the fabric how much. They are dye...an alcohol 
 based dye I believe.... and will fade in sunlight.... like  dye.



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Subject: [h-cost] Making History Hip
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I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume, but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more accessible through documentary, TV series and movies is making the "sport" of costuming so much more popular. 
 
http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5
 
Sg
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Oh dear, humour crossing past each other and failing to meet!  I meant 
the girl in the St Nicholas painting - I'm assuming they are the three 
poor girls who
couldn't marry because they had no dowries, so St Nicholas threw three 
purses of money through their window one night (or something like that) 
to help them.
Still just a frivolous suggestion.  But the quote from the Venetian 
ambassador is interesting, and would explain Mary Tudor's lady in waiting. 

Jean


Kimiko Small wrote:
> You would wonder, except she's got enough jewels on
> her to buy a longer gown; so she must not be that
> poor. But then, it is a Saint. It may represent
> something I don't understand about her story or why
> she and 11,000 virgins were all killed by the Huns
> (maybe they dressed "provocatively" with these
> demi-skirted gowns.)
> {I am trying to be funny, and it is failing badly -
> sorry}
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> --- Jean Waddie <waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> <snip>
>   
>> apron is lying flat).  I'm intrigued, if this is
>> allegorical or an 
>> artistic convention,
>> why did artists want to show shorter skirts like
>> that?  Is it just that 
>> she's so poor, she's grown out of her gown ;-) ?
>>
>> Jean
>>     
>
>
>
>       ____________________________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> I have found the effigy monument that shows a short
> gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
> Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
> The view of her hem:
> http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/?action=view&current=95_137_main.jpg
> ( http://tinyurl.com/2kwfxq )

That's really interesting!

Although I'd class this as much different than the thigh-high overgown 
of the tryptych.  This one is ankle-length with a 
longer-than-floor-length underskirt, after all.  I wonder if there was 
some element of modesty for the effigy involved, so one couldn't look up 
her skirts, or if it is an accurate version of what they were wearing?  
It certainly should pool prettily around the feet when upright.

cv
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Do you have a picture of the entire effergy?  I'm wondering if what looks l=
ike a short gown over a kirtle is really a fold of the kirtle? Lynn

Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org> wrote:  Kimiko Small wrote:
> I have found the effigy monument that shows a short
> gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
> Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
> The view of her hem:
> http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/?action=
=3Dview=A4t=3D95_137_main.jpg
> ( http://tinyurl.com/2kwfxq )

That's really interesting!

Although I'd class this as much different than the thigh-high overgown =

of the tryptych. This one is ankle-length with a =

longer-than-floor-length underskirt, after all. I wonder if there was =

some element of modesty for the effigy involved, so one couldn't look up =

her skirts, or if it is an accurate version of what they were wearing? =

It certainly should pool prettily around the feet when upright.

cv
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That should teach ME to not read and reply really late
at night when I should just go to bed.

Sorry, I didn't catch which Saint image you were
referring to, and it was plain as day.

Kimiko


--- Jean Waddie <waddiejean@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Oh dear, humour crossing past each other and failing
> to meet!  I meant 
> the girl in the St Nicholas painting - I'm assuming
> they are the three 
> poor girls who
> couldn't marry because they had no dowries, so St
> Nicholas threw three 
> purses of money through their window one night (or
> something like that) 
> to help them.
> Still just a frivolous suggestion. 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/browse/view.asp?id=95

I am taking the word of Dr. Jane Malcolm-Davies as to
the skirt length, as she has viewed the effigy in
person, and I have not.


--- Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Do you have a picture of the entire effergy?  I'm
> wondering if what looks like a short gown over a
> kirtle is really a fold of the kirtle? Lynn



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 19:30:40 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> Sharon Collier
>

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-----Original Message-----
From: Wanda Pease [mailto:wandap@hevanet.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> Sharon Collier
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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Is it only men's clothes?
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> Sharon Collier
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 13:53:43 +0000
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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Hi there,

No it isn't only men's clothing.  It also includes women's garments and other types of barding; of course the horse barding came before women's clothing in the book.  Wonder if that is a comment of the times on how we as ladies rated.  (he he).

Etiennette
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> Is it only men's clothes?
> Sharon 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Wanda Pease
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:31 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
> 
> Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
> have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
> tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
> Manual to help young tailor's with their art.
> 
> If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
> think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
> These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
> with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
> instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
> have help understanding.
> 
> Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
> I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
> understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
> translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
> decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
> Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.
> 
> A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
> the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
> first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
> man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
> you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
> They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
> farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
> the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
> corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.
> 
> Regina Romsey
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> > [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> > To: 'Historical Costume'
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
> >
> >
> > Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> > Sharon Collier
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 13:53:43 +0000
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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Hi there,

No it isn't only men's clothing.  It also includes women's garments and other types of barding; of course the horse barding came before women's clothing in the book.  Wonder if that is a comment of the times on how we as ladies rated.  (he he).

Etiennette
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> Is it only men's clothes?
> Sharon 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Wanda Pease
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:31 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
> 
> Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
> have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
> tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
> Manual to help young tailor's with their art.
> 
> If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
> think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
> These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
> with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
> instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
> have help understanding.
> 
> Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
> I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
> understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
> translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
> decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
> Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.
> 
> A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
> the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
> first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
> man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
> you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
> They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
> farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
> the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
> corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.
> 
> Regina Romsey
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> > [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> > To: 'Historical Costume'
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
> >
> >
> > Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> > Sharon Collier
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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No, it has women's clothes as well. 
Sg



> From: sharon@collierfam.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:48:14 -0700> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe> > Is it only men's clothes?> Sharon > >
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it 
> had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there 
> are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume, 
> but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more accessible 
> through documentary, TV series and movies is 
> making the "sport" of costuming so much more popular. 
> http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5

You might add the "Highlander" TV series. I know the production company made a 
DVD for schools that chronicled all of the Highlander flashbacks as an 
introduction different periods and societies.

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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I don't have the original post, but I thought the
short skirt over long skirt thing seemed Spanish. So
here's something I found that might be useful. It's
from Weidnitz "Trachtenbuch" about 1530 or 1540. 

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2767477510025622007ZaBAUb

MaggiRos



--- Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Do you have a picture of the entire effergy?  I'm
> wondering if what looks like a short gown over a
> kirtle is really a fold of the kirtle? Lynn
> 
> Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org> wrote:  Kimiko
> Small wrote:
> > I have found the effigy monument that shows a
> short
> > gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
> > Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
> > The view of her hem:
> >
> 

The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Though I vaguely remember seeing some German prints and French manuscript
illuminations with either the short over dress or the long "peplum" bodice
(this is the first I remember seeing both on one figure), I wonder if the
artists might have mistaken a "tuck" of fabric like it is here in the Lotto
painting?
http://www.abcgallery.com/L/lotto/lotto6.html
for a long peplum.


-----Original Message-----
I don't have the original post, but I thought the
short skirt over long skirt thing seemed Spanish. So
here's something I found that might be useful. It's
from Weidnitz "Trachtenbuch" about 1530 or 1540.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2767477510025622007ZaBAUb

MaggiRos


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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I found the original post.  The effergy is from c1535 and is of Edith Pexall nee Brocas. This was noted by Dr. Jane Malcolm Davies.  On first look I thought it might be a fold in the kirtle at least thats what it looked like to me.  The kirtle looks almost to long almost as if it were more a nightgown(Chemise) and a kirtle over it?  I was just wondering if kimiko or someone could give me more info on Edith Pexall also such as her status (Nobility?).  I'm just very interested in this time period of history and its dress.  Thanks, Lynn Ps How common was this in period?

MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:  I don't have the original post, but I thought the
short skirt over long skirt thing seemed Spanish. So
here's something I found that might be useful. It's
from Weidnitz "Trachtenbuch" about 1530 or 1540. 

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2767477510025622007ZaBAUb

MaggiRos



--- Lynn Roth wrote:

> Do you have a picture of the entire effergy? I'm
> wondering if what looks like a short gown over a
> kirtle is really a fold of the kirtle? Lynn
> 
> Cynthia Virtue wrote: Kimiko
> Small wrote:
> > I have found the effigy monument that shows a
> short
> > gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
> > Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
> > The view of her hem:
> >
> 

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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The commentary in the Dover reprint I got this from
says the whole upper section is a jacket, and it may
be. A lot of German peasant women in the woodcuts are
shown with jackets with a long peplum or skirting that
is definitly not a tuck of the skirt. That this one
has another colored band at the bottom looks to me
like it's meant to be the bottom edge of something,
not the middle. Plus it's so flat. It's hard to
believe that anyone who has actually seen a woolen
dress tucked up would mistake it for a flat frill or
peplum. (Cranach gets it.) This lady isn't a peasant,
but it could surely be a jacket.

Click the B/W image next to it in the album for the
back view. ("Hey lady, turn around!")
Here it is directly.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2710325920025622007dsYOiq

Of course, they're all artist's impressions, not
photographs. But this "jacket" does seem like the
curiosity in the OP's picture.

For more short gown (but not that short)over longer
kirtle, there are these two
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2505459060025622007pIZwWA
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2824775790025622007jsyHRh

MaggiRos

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Though I vaguely remember seeing some German prints
> and French manuscript
> illuminations with either the short over dress or
> the long "peplum" bodice
> (this is the first I remember seeing both on one
> figure), I wonder if the
> artists might have mistaken a "tuck" of fabric like
> it is here in the Lotto
> painting?
> http://www.abcgallery.com/L/lotto/lotto6.html
> for a long peplum.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> I don't have the original post, but I thought the
> short skirt over long skirt thing seemed Spanish. So
> here's something I found that might be useful. It's
> from Weidnitz "Trachtenbuch" about 1530 or 1540.
> 
>
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2767477510025622007ZaBAUb
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Kate Pinner <pinnerk@mccc.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
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If you still have a copy, and it is a translation, I would love one. You can
contact me off-list at pinnerk@mccc.edu
  Kate

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

 Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Can I just add that anyone who doesn't have a copy of this marvellous 
> book should really think about getting one as a standard reference if 
> they work on the 16th century, much like Janet Arnold's. I've had my 
> copy for about 8 years now, and it's one of the most useful books I've 
> ever had (

After reading the information above I went to the David Brown site to order
another softback.  Sadly they came back "haven't any more".  I cried, I
whined, I send pleas directly to Ian Stevens their friendly marketing
director who just happened to be in England at the moment.  He sent our into
the dim reaches of Oxbow books warehouse and unearthed the last 5 copies
they had.

I say Had because I now have them.  They are $70 each because David Brown
charged $65 plus $5 shipping.  If you want one I can let you have it for
that plus the amount it will cost to media mail (or other, contact me) it to
you.  I'm also trying to get my hands on some others that aren't perfect,
but can be made to have all the information.

Now this is not an attempt to undercut either Oxbow, David Brown (my
favorite form of Crack), or Mr. and Mrs. Bean.  I desperately want this book
back in print.  The thing is that I believe that it would sell slowly but
steadily in about 200 copies per year (or am I under/over estimating?).
David Brown would be happy to handle the selling if it had the opportunity.

Buying copies to the Editor/Translator/book publisher get money for more
copies and Royalties for all their hard work is the only way to get this
done.

Anyway, if anyone wants a copy now, let me know and we can probably make a
deal.  Like Hilary, this is a book I wouldn't be without.  The patterns are
to scale and really work.  It isn't a book for a new sewer.  It may not even
be a book for someone who hasn't worked with period style patterns before.
Took me years to figure out what was going on with some of them, but then
it's a Eureka! moment.

Regina Romsey.
P.S.  If you live in England or a European country, you might try and
contact Mrs. Bean directly.  If they have more copies available themselves,
I'm sure they would be happy to sell too!
e:
> >
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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On Mar 29, 2008, at 3:49 AM, Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> I have found the effigy monument that shows a short
> gown over very long kirtle from Dr. Jane
> Malcolm-Davies effigies web site.
> The woman:
> http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/? =

> action=3Dview&current=3D95_main.jpg
> ( http://tinyurl.com/2kp5ay )
> The view of her hem:
> http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/sstormwatch/CostumeIdeas/? =

> action=3Dview&current=3D95_137_main.jpg
> ( http://tinyurl.com/2kwfxq )
>
> There is an interesting little note that Jane provided
> with that image.
> "The top layer (the gown) is shorter than the under
> layer (the kirtle). This was described as
> characteristic of Englishwomen's dress by the Venetian
> ambassador in 1554 (quoted in Carter, A [1984] =93Mary
> Tudor=92s Wardrobe=94 in Costume, 18, 20)."

This is a trifle misleading, I'm afraid.  In =93Mary Tudor=92s Wardrobe,=94=
  =

Carter quotes Soranzo, the Venetian ambassador, as saying "Queen  =

Mary's garments are of two sorts; the one a gown such as men wear but  =

fitting very close, with an underpetticoat which has a very long  =

train; and this is her ordinary costume, being also that of the  =

gentlewomen of England.  The other garment is a gown and bodice, with  =

wide hanging sleeves in the French fashion which she wears on state  =

occasions." (p. 15)  It is the first style that Malcolm-Davies is  =

using as textual evidence for this shorter outer gown.  But Carter  =

presents a fairly detailed argument that this style is actually a  =

loose gown over a trained kirtle.  Her summary is "Moreover, orders  =

for French kirtles generally follow those for loose gowns, and it may  =

be asserted that this is the combination inferred by Soranzo, with  =

the kirtle train visible below the hem of the gown." (p. 19)  It is  =

implied here that Carter believes the loose gown on women to have  =

been floor-length, but she states it earlier when discussing how a  =

woman's loose gown differed from the "gown such as men wear" that  =

Soranzo references. (p. 17)  (There are of course shorter loose gowns  =

on women later in the century, though the evidence for them is from  =

France and Italy.)

So using this reference as an argument that wearing a shorter fitted  =

gown (like the one in this effigy or the other problematic examples  =

we've seen) over a longer kirtle was a general fashion among  =

Englishwomen at this time is a bit disingenuous.

There is something of a disconnect between the idea of "loose gown"  =

and the description of "fitting very close," but there are some  =

funeral brasses from the 1550s and later that show loose gowns with a  =

girdle worn on top so that the fullness is held close to the body.   =

If anyone has a copy of Laver's _Costume of the Western World:  Early  =

Tudor_, plate 42 is a good example from 1550.  Page 96 of  =

Ashelford's  _Visual History of Costume:  The Sixteenth Century_ has  =

an almost identical look from 1578, but as Robin helpfully pointed  =

out to me once, patterns for brasses were used long after the  =

fashions they depicted went out of style.

All that said, there do appear to be at least two English examples of  =

a slightly shorter fitted gown over a longer kirtle that can't be  =

explained via allegorical representation or sainthood without a bit  =

of a stretch (the effigy and Mary Tudor's lady in waiting).  Whatever  =

it was, it doesn't seem to have been a general fashion.

Melanie Schuessler
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip
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Hi David!

Do you remember who made that DVD with the Highlander Flashbacks? I teach
fashion history and this would be SOOOOOO cool.
Thanks for the help.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of David S. Mallinak
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 11:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip



Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it
> had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know
there
> are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume,
> but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more
accessible
> through documentary, TV series and movies is
> making the "sport" of costuming so much more popular.
> http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5

You might add the "Highlander" TV series. I know the production company made
a
DVD for schools that chronicled all of the Highlander flashbacks as an
introduction different periods and societies.

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Thank you MaggiRos, I really appreciate these images
and where they came from.

I am going to collect as many as I can find, and try
to organize them to time and location, so I can try to
see a pattern, if any.

And the note that it is a jacket is similar to the
thought that the saint was wearing something similar
to a German man's skirted jacket. If there are more
German styles like this, I will be raiding a friend's
collection, as she focuses on German styles.

Kimiko


--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> The commentary in the Dover reprint I got this from
> says the whole upper section is a jacket, and it may
> be. A lot of German peasant women in the woodcuts
> are
> shown with jackets with a long peplum or skirting
<snip>
> Click the B/W image next to it in the album for the
> back view. ("Hey lady, turn around!")
> Here it is directly.
>
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2710325920025622007dsYOiq
> 
> Of course, they're all artist's impressions, not
> photographs. But this "jacket" does seem like the
> curiosity in the OP's picture.
> 
> For more short gown (but not that short)over longer
> kirtle, there are these two
>
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2505459060025622007pIZwWA
>
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2824775790025622007jsyHRh
> 
> MaggiRos



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?
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Hello Lynn,

As far as I understand, smocks (aka chemises) were not
as long as to the floor, but usually somewhere around
the knee length, maybe to ankles. I am no expert on
smocks, tho.

Her status I think is that of gentlewoman, which may
or may not be noble in birth, but of higher station
than most of the people. However, the husband is not
noted as being knight, but their son was a knight. She
is noted as being the heir to a named estate, which
might mean she was the daughter of a wealthy merchant
(and sole surviving heir?) They were at least wealthy
enough to purchase an effigy monument. It would be a
guess, unless one wanted to hunt that particular
family down (and Jane has listed the sources she
used).

As to how common this style was? Not very common I
think, but that's why I am hunting them down to find
out. It is not a style I've seen often in images, but
then I've not paid direct attention, until recently.
The problem with this time frame (roughly
1510-1540ish), is that individual people portraits,
unless a group image of some sort, often are of a
person from the waist up, so lower body details were
not painted. Finding the exceptions can prove very
helpful.

If you haven't gotten it yet, may I suggest checking
out the book called the Tudor Tailor, written by Dr.
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila. It will give
you a good background of info, as well as some scaled
patterns of the Tudor period.

Kimiko


--- Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I found the original post.  The effergy is from
> c1535 and is of Edith Pexall nee Brocas. This was
> noted by Dr. Jane Malcolm Davies.  On first look I
> thought it might be a fold in the kirtle at least
> thats what it looked like to me.  The kirtle looks
> almost to long almost as if it were more a
> nightgown(Chemise) and a kirtle over it?  I was just
> wondering if kimiko or someone could give me more
> info on Edith Pexall also such as her status
> (Nobility?).  I'm just very interested in this time
> period of history and its dress.  Thanks, Lynn Ps
> How common was this in period?



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Thank you Melanie for that clarification. I have the
article in question, but it is in my sewing room pile
of stuff (that I sooo need to clean up), so I hadn't
been able to read it yet.

Also, thanks for the other images to look for. I will
hunt those down, as I know I have one book, and may
have the other (or the library does).

It may not be a general fashion, but it would be nice
to know of alternate styles, if they were really done
then, and not just from a few people's imaginations.

Kimiko


--- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
>> (quoted in Carter, A [1984]
>> =93Mary
>> Tudor=92s Wardrobe=94 in Costume, 18, 20)."
> =

> This is a trifle misleading, I'm afraid.  In =93Mary
> Tudor=92s Wardrobe,=94  =

<snip lots of great info and other stuff to check out,
for length.>
> =

> All that said, there do appear to be at least two
> English examples of  =

> a slightly shorter fitted gown over a longer kirtle
> that can't be  =

> explained via allegorical representation or
> sainthood without a bit  =

> of a stretch (the effigy and Mary Tudor's lady in
> waiting).  Whatever  =

> it was, it doesn't seem to have been a general
> fashion.
> =

> Melanie Schuessler




      _____________________________________________________________________=
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Subject: [h-cost] John Adams HBO series
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Hello, all!

Has anyone been watching the HBO series, "John Adams"?  What is your 
general impression of:
Costumes - both the principal characters and the general 
populace/servants/etc.?
Depiction of the general attitudes and society of the period?

We've enjoyed it so far, and to our non-expert eye, the costumes and 
such look pretty good.  It's obvious the women are wearing corsets, 
etc., and some of the costumes have been fabulous - esp. the one in 
tonight's episode that Abigail Adams wore to the opera - the robe a 
la francaise (I think I got the term correct, did I?)  We did notice 
that they thanked the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in the credits.

Sandy (and Pierre)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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      Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner, but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.


Saragrace wrote:

I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume, but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more accessible through documentary, TV series and movies is making the "sport" of costuming so much more popular. 
 
http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5 
 
Sg



Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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I know its not a period fabric, but does anyone know when silk dupion was first produced/used?

Thanks

Serena
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In a message dated 3/31/2008 5:02:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

Trust an  American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney 
accents!  



*****************
 
And can you tell someone from Alabama from someone from North Carolina? I  
can.... usually.
 
Anyway.... on "Last of the Mohicans" about half the costume shop was  
British. Someone found a map of the US with all the states drawn in but not  named. 
We Xeroxed it and passed it around to see how well the Brits would  do 
identifying states. They were AMAZING! They even got those big square  states out west 
right. Sometimes I get confused out there. The most common  mistake was they 
thought New England was a state.
 
I assure you.... I couldn't tell York from  Glouster.



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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In a message dated 3/31/2008 5:02:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

Trust an  American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney 
accents!  



*****************
 
And can you tell someone from Alabama from someone from North Carolina? I  
can.... usually.
 
Anyway.... on "Last of the Mohicans" about half the costume shop was  
British. Someone found a map of the US with all the states drawn in but not  named. 
We Xeroxed it and passed it around to see how well the Brits would  do 
identifying states. They were AMAZING! They even got those big square  states out west 
right. Sometimes I get confused out there. The most common  mistake was they 
thought New England was a state.
 
I assure you.... I couldn't tell York from  Glouster.



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
_______________________________________________
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Maybe the writer hasn't actually seen the series, but
has read the books? we'll never know.


MaggiRos
who can tell the difference between the accents

--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:

> 
>       Trust an American not to know the difference
> between Yorkshire and Cockney accents! I believe
> Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a
> Londoner, but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.
> 
> 
> Saragrace wrote:
> 
> I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this
> and was wondering why it had taken so long for the
> media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there
> are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is
> with respect to costume, but I think it is kind of
> cool how the emphasis on making history more
> accessible through documentary, TV series and movies
> is making the "sport" of costuming so much more
> popular. 
>  
> http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5 
>  
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
> University of Derby
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dupion
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ummm...well it's not pre 1600 but I think someone once told me that it was
around in the 1880s or a little bit old. :)

A few things I learned recently about it from a online site:
Dupioni Silk (also spelled Duppioni) is produced by reeling silk fibers from
two silk worms that have spun one cocoon together and usually produces a
rough yarn. Therefore, irregularity in sheerness or weight, sometimes
referred to as bands or shadings, is characteristic of dupioni silk fabric.
Black specks which occasionally appear in dupioni silk fabric are part of
the original cocoon of the silk worm. Removing them would not only weaken
the fabric but destroy part of its beauty and character. These
characteristics are inherent to dupioni silk fabric and should not be
considered as defects in weaving.
Dupioni is often marked 'Dry Clean Only,' but it can be washed if you wash
it before you cut it out. Dupioni silk fabric loses much of its stiffness
when washed, and just a bit of its sheen, but it still looks great. It will
shrink up to 14% - 5 inches (13 cm) per yard - when washed, but it is very
difficult to wrinkle after that. And no dry cleaning bills!.

-----Original Message-----
I know its not a period fabric, but does anyone know when silk dupion was
first produced/used?

Thanks

Serena


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Kimiko,  Thank you for the information and the picture of the effigy.  My personna in the sca is around the 1530's in England as nobility,  but my general interest is in the period of the gable headresses.  There isn't very much primary documentation that I've been aable to find on this period.  I do have the tudor Tailor aand really enjoy it.  Thanks for the information. Lynn

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:  Hello Lynn,

As far as I understand, smocks (aka chemises) were not
as long as to the floor, but usually somewhere around
the knee length, maybe to ankles. I am no expert on
smocks, tho.

Her status I think is that of gentlewoman, which may
or may not be noble in birth, but of higher station
than most of the people. However, the husband is not
noted as being knight, but their son was a knight. She
is noted as being the heir to a named estate, which
might mean she was the daughter of a wealthy merchant
(and sole surviving heir?) They were at least wealthy
enough to purchase an effigy monument. It would be a
guess, unless one wanted to hunt that particular
family down (and Jane has listed the sources she
used).

As to how common this style was? Not very common I
think, but that's why I am hunting them down to find
out. It is not a style I've seen often in images, but
then I've not paid direct attention, until recently.
The problem with this time frame (roughly
1510-1540ish), is that individual people portraits,
unless a group image of some sort, often are of a
person from the waist up, so lower body details were
not painted. Finding the exceptions can prove very
helpful.

If you haven't gotten it yet, may I suggest checking
out the book called the Tudor Tailor, written by Dr.
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila. It will give
you a good background of info, as well as some scaled
patterns of the Tudor period.

Kimiko


--- Lynn Roth wrote:

> I found the original post. The effergy is from
> c1535 and is of Edith Pexall nee Brocas. This was
> noted by Dr. Jane Malcolm Davies. On first look I
> thought it might be a fold in the kirtle at least
> thats what it looked like to me. The kirtle looks
> almost to long almost as if it were more a
> nightgown(Chemise) and a kirtle over it? I was just
> wondering if kimiko or someone could give me more
> info on Edith Pexall also such as her status
> (Nobility?). I'm just very interested in this time
> period of history and its dress. Thanks, Lynn Ps
> How common was this in period?



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Thank you ever so much for the pictures of the effergy.  They are beautiful.  I am also takking the word of Dr. Davies, but i'm curious as to how common this was, for what time period and weather it waas just gentlewomen or seen in poor, nobile etc.  also what types of material were used.  Thankks, Lynn

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:  http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/browse/view.asp?id=95

I am taking the word of Dr. Jane Malcolm-Davies as to
the skirt length, as she has viewed the effigy in
person, and I have not.


--- Lynn Roth wrote:

> Do you have a picture of the entire effergy? I'm
> wondering if what looks like a short gown over a
> kirtle is really a fold of the kirtle? Lynn



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(Feel free to forward the following as long as you send the message 
in its entirety.)

As noted here earlier, I'm giving a full day of lectures in 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, this Saturday, April 5. The lecture day is 
sponsored by the Milwaukee SCA group, but non-members are quite 
welcome to attend.

I've been informed that there is enough space left that people may 
still send in registrations even at this late date.

It's also possible that people may be admitted at the door, space 
permitting. If you think you might want to make last-minute plans, 
please contact the organizers to find out what the room status is. I 
do not know if there is a surcharge for walk-ins.

Website with contact information is here:
http://caeranterth.northshield.org/Calendar/Netherton.html

The website also has details on the lecture topics, location, etc.

--Robin


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Hi Robin
 
I am glad to hear this.  I live about 25 miles away and wanted to attend, but never got any reply to the e-mail I sent.  I'll try again!
 
Laurie> Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:46:44 -0500> From: robin@netherton.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lectures, Milwaukee> > (Feel free to forward the following as long as you send the message > in its entirety.)> > As noted here earlier, I'm giving a full day of lectures in > Milwaukee, Wisconsin, this Saturday, April 5. The lecture day is > sponsored by the Milwaukee SCA group, but non-members are quite > welcome to attend.> > I've been informed that there is enough space left that people may > still send in registrations even at this late date.> > It's also possible that people may be admitted at the door, space > permitting. If you think you might want to make last-minute plans, > please contact the organizers to find out what the room status is. I > do not know if there is a surcharge for walk-ins.> > Website with contact information is here:> http://caeranterth.northshield.org/Calendar/Netherton.html> > The website also has details on the lectur!
 e topics, location, etc.> > --Robin> > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is it only men's clothes?
> Sharon
>
>

No.  Both women's and men's clothing.  Again, this is middle class Spanish,
not the Infanta's.  Although they were probably similar in cut and
construction, Royal clothing certainly utilized items that most well to do
people did not.

There are patterns for what we call a farthingale that are put together
quite differently than we do now.  They are also fairly narrow.  Remember
that Spain stayed with the cone shaped silhouette while England went for the
bum roll and pleated looks late in the century.

The patterns consist of drawings of various widths of fabric with pattern
shapes laid out on them.  Usually 3 patterns to a page.  This shows you that
they are quite small.  I measured them, checked the measurement chart
(doesn't look like anything you have ever seen before) and drew full size
patterns on pattern making muslin (gingham which has such nice even squares
on it).

More than anything else, this book will show you what the pattern pieces
looked like; how they were placed on fabrics of various widths that were
available then (none in the 60" woolen widths we are used to).

Once you have the hang of what Master Alcega was trying to put across to men
who were already familiar with the craft of sewing garments, you will love
the book.  The first part of it is a facsimile of the original Spanish book.
The second part is the translation with each of the patterns done again.
The measurements are not translated, but there is a page at the front of the
translated section that discusses what the markings mean, and how wide
fabrics were believed to be from various countries.

Regina

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip
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 Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney 
accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner, 
but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.>>

Can you tell the difference between a Michigan accent and a Pennsylvania 
accent?

How about Kentucky and Texas?

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk
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Acrylic will make it stiff.

-----Original Message-----
I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white
on off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without
embroidering them all.
So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those
flowers.  I know that there are special paints that are typically used
on silk, but I was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   >>

I can't imagine that watercolors or oils would work well at all.

I would either use acrylic, heavily thinned with a textile medium, or bite 
the bullet and buy silk paints from Dharma.

Dianne 

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Well, if someone is PA Dutch or from Western PA or from South Philadelphia,
you should be able to tell, youse guys!
KY and TN sound very different from TX.
Candace Perry
Bally, PA

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

 Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney 
accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner,

but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.>>

Can you tell the difference between a Michigan accent and a Pennsylvania 
accent?

How about Kentucky and Texas?

Dianne

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Status: RO

I went and checked with my husband about the original books, I assume 
that's what the writer was referring to.  But it would be worrying if 
people then listened to Sean Bean's accent and thought "Ah, that's what 
Cockney is!"

Jean


Kate M Bunting wrote:
>       Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner, but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.
>
>
> Saragrace wrote:
>
> I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume, but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more accessible through documentary, TV series and movies is making the "sport" of costuming so much more popular. 
>  
> http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5 
>  
> Sg
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
> University of Derby
>
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