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----- Original Message ----- >
On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:49:15 -0700 "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> 
writes:
> Since my migraines are pressure triggered,  I'm
> pretty miserable even though I really love the green this produces
> as well as the coolness!

Not to glory in your pain, but I'm very relieved to hear this--the husband 
and I recently decided for sure NOT to move to WA (going to NH instead!) and 
we both get pressure/weather migraines.  Sour grapes and all, but I'm glad 
to have one less reason not to regret our decision!

-E
PS--anyone have any suggestions for costume or museum related destinations 
in the northeast?

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I think a friend of mine just bought the Bernina equivalent, it has an
extension arm of some kind and she can program it up via her PC to do al
kinds of embroidery and quilting.

I just after a new machine myself but just something basic.


Sidney

On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 4:45 PM, Paula Praxis <praxis_729@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> I got the new Pfaff Creative Vision for Christmas last and I am loving it.
>  It has - I am told - the largest hoop of any home sewing machine.  If
> learning a new machine and software to go with it is an adventure to you I
> highly recommend this machine.  I'm also new to the machine embroidery
> scene.  Digitizing your own designs is so much easier than it use to be,  I
> bought the Floriani Embroidery suite Pro at quilt show at a very good
> discount.  I learn something new every time I open it up and go through a
> tutorial lesson.
>
>  Anniecat
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 17:39:39 -0700> From: fran@lavoltapress.com> To:
> h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Sewing Machine> > I'm
> looking at the new Pfaff Creative Vision and the Viking Designer SE. > The
> proprietary software looks on the face of it to be identical. (I > so far
> have not seen great reviews of Corel's.) Do you have any > preferences as to
> which machine is the best?> > Fran> > Monie wrote:> > I own the Viking
> Designer SE, I love it so if you have the cash? I would > > Most assuredly
> state pick it, but also? Since you were mentioning a larger> > field for
> embroidery? The newest Pfaff you should look at because at the> > moment it
> has the largest field.> > > > I went to several stores to play with the
> machines, once they see you are> > doing this not to 'play' but to see which
> machine is right for you?> > Typically they allow you to stitch out a
> design. > > > > Also? When speaking of embroidery machines it is more the
> program that you> > have that wi!
>  ll also achieve results. If you are into or know Coreldraw,> > there is
> an embroidery machine version. Also Pfaff and Husqvarna have their> > new
> program 4D which is very fun I am working with it, as well as> > Generations
> and well I bet a bunch more.> > > > So you don't have to get the TOP end
> machine, you can still get awesome> > results with the top end program!> > >
> > Cilean> > > > > > > > ______________________________
>
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He can wait if he truly loves you :)



On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 10:45 AM, Betsy Marshall <
betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote:

> Honeymoon trip!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 6:20 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Costuming Colloquium in Florence,
>
>
> Would so love to go, but have a slight hitch in that am getting married in
> November...
>
> *sigh*
>
> :o)
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 30/04/2008 20:43:42 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> I have  met some people who are saving up to go to the big event in
> November
> for  Janet Arnold. Here is the  link:
> http://www.fondazione-delbianco.org/inglese/InsertNews/Janet-Arnold.htm
>
> I  was wondering if anyone else was going to this event? I am hoping to
> get
> to  Florence during this time, as I will be in England so why not hop
>  down?
>
> There is rumor a new book in which Ms. Arnold was working on  before her
> demise will be unveiled at this event.
>
> Anyone else here  of this rumor?
>
> I would give my eyeteeth to get there, but if not I  want to give people
> some
> money in case the book is shown and they are  allowed to purchase it.
>
>
> Cilean
>
>
>
>
>
> <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
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I always thought frog closures were a chinese invention? Learn something new
everyday!

Sidney


On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 4:23 AM, Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:

> I made a coat dress/Spanish Surcoat which has frogs up the whole front
> opening.  I'm trying to get documentation on the use of frogs in Elizabethan
> England.  There are a couple of pictures in Janet Arnold.  Does anyone have
> some links to either portraits or other primary type docs showing use of
> frogs and/or how the specific ones shown were tied?
>
> I'm using some very clever doo dads carried by FolkWear for tying these
> frogs.  Much easier than just on a macrame board.  I can't find period
> pictures of exactly what I'm doing, but will settle for close <G>.
>
> Thanks
> Julie in Ramona (San Diego)
>
>
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 02:39:38 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan frog closures
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I love Frog closures too but they don't seem to be standard on English
Elizabethans.  However, there is a painting of Elizabeth in a white dress
with frogs, labeled "Polish Dress" and one of the fameous ones where she is
much older, holding gloves, the dress of a light color with orange frogging
(?).  Then there is one of the Russian ambassadors.  I believe they are of
Chinese origin, but spread west and north by our pre-16th Century date.

Gadget!?  From Folkwear?  Avarice rears its expensive head.

Wanda

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of S Young
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:47 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan frog closures
>
>
> I always thought frog closures were a chinese invention? Learn
> something new
> everyday!
>
> Sidney
>
>
> On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 4:23 AM, Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:
>
> > I made a coat dress/Spanish Surcoat which has frogs up the whole front
> > opening.  I'm trying to get documentation on the use of frogs
> in Elizabethan
> > England.  There are a couple of pictures in Janet Arnold.  Does
> anyone have
> > some links to either portraits or other primary type docs showing use of
> > frogs and/or how the specific ones shown were tied?
> >
> > I'm using some very clever doo dads carried by FolkWear for tying these
> > frogs.  Much easier than just on a macrame board.  I can't find period
> > pictures of exactly what I'm doing, but will settle for close <G>.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Julie in Ramona (San Diego)
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Talk of royal clothing styles has me thinking, does anyone know if any of
the dresses worn by Elizabeth and Margaret during the 50's are available in
pattern form?


Sidney
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> Not to glory in your pain, but I'm very relieved to hear this--the
husband
> and I recently decided for sure NOT to move to WA (going to NH
instead!)
> and
> we both get pressure/weather migraines.  Sour grapes and all, but I'm
glad
> to have one less reason not to regret our decision!
> 
> -E
> PS--anyone have any suggestions for costume or museum related
destinations
> in the northeast?

Where in NH?

Boston's Museum of Fine Arts has a costume collection, lots of small
historical societies (we're filthy with them up here) have them too...
Old York Historical in York, ME, several of the historic houses in
Portsmouth, NH... The university museum here at Univ. of NH (sadly, NOT
the museum -I- work for...though I get to play sometimes...I make museum
mannequins on the side...) has a small collection. Peabody-Essex Museum
in Salem, MA... Brick Store Museum in Kennebunk, ME... Dartmouth has a
collection too, I believe... NH Historical Society in Concord, NH
Not a lot of places will have things on display, but most will let you
in to look if you're researching something or ask.

Astrida
*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


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Pretty much everything that Jane said below :).
 
I would add George W. Digby's "Elizabethan Embroidery (Faber & Faber,
1963) for a good broader perspective on blackwork and embroidery in the
latter 16th C.
 
Mamluk is a MUST!  I don't have the titles in front of me but I think a
couple of books by Kathleen Epstein/Staples touch on this too.
 
Catherine
 
 
At 01:43 PM 1/05/2008, you wrote:
>Ages ago I forwarded a question about blackwork to this list on behalf
of a
>colleague. You folks were very helpful, so I'm 
>coming back with an add-on query.
>
>My colleague has continued her work and is approaching it from a
different
>angle now, and for background, she needs to bring herself up to speed
on
>what's known about embroidery in late medieval and early modern
Western
>Europe, especially England. She is especially interested in seeing
how
>blackwork fits into that context.
>
>She asks for recommendations of good published sources that will give
her a
>sense of what blackwork is and when it was done, based on specific
examples
>(art, documents, and especially surviving artifacts). She needs
sources she
>can cite in a formal paper, so Web sites will not do. Neither will
how-to
>books that include a little historical background (e.g. that something
was
>done in X century) but do not provide sources or evidence.
>
>She particularly needs definitions: What specific characteristics
lead
>historians to class the needlework on a 1550 shirt (for example) in
the
>category of "blackwork" style (as the term is understood), while
another
>example of embroidery that happens to be black would not be
considered
>"blackwork"? A source that explains the stitches, motifs, patterns,
etc. that
>are routinely associated by historians with the 
>term "blackwork" would be great.
 
Such a beasty doesn't really exist. There isn't 
one or even two books that cover all this area. 
And not many articles either, not academic ones anyway.
 
General History of European Embroidey at this time:
 
Bridgeman, Harriet; and Drury, Elizabeth. (eds). 
? ?Needlework, an Illustrated History?, (London: 
Paddington Press, 1978) - section on Great Briton
Schuette, Marie and M?ller-Christensen, Sigrid. 
?The Art of Embroidery? (London: Thames and Hudson, 1964)
 
Blackwork History/Techniques
 
Some of the best background about Blackwork comes from a how-to book:
 
Gostelow, Mary. Blackwork. (New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1976)
Geddes, Elisabeth, and Moyra McNeill. Blackwork 
Embroidery. (New York: Dover, 1976)
 
I also have a handout which describes what I 
consider to be the three main types of blackwork 
during the Elizabethan period with examples and 
details for find original institutions hold the egs.
 
See "Embroidery for Clothing - Non-Counted 
Blackwork" under "Class Handouts" on 
http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/research/index.html 
 

>(I realize that some people could argue that you can call almost
anything
>monochrome "blackwork" if you stretch the definition far enough, but
she's
>interested in what's traditionally assumed by the accepted
definitions, not
>ways to revise it.)
 
One thing to remember, most sources are heavily 
biased towards looking at early period Blackwork 
ie early Tudor under Henry VIII. You can find 
alot about that but much less about the later 
period stuff. Really there aren't any standard 
definitions of what constitutes blackwork.
 
>I am not asking anyone here to answer those questions for her ... even
if you
>did, she'd still need published authorities she can cite in a formal
paper.
>And she really needs to get up to speed on this on her own, and do her
own
>reading. So all I'm bothering you folks for are recommendations for
>academic-quality reference books. She'll be getting them ILL, so cost
and
>availability are not issues.
>
>Bonus points if you can also point her to a good overview source on
known
>embroidery styles from, say, 1300-1600, based on surviving pieces, so
she can
>get a sense of other known styles of this period and compare them with
what
>she learns about "blackwork." I think she does not have much of a
sense of
>just how much is known about specific embroidery 
>styles, and how many types of
>embroidery there were in this period.
 
My website:
 
Historical Needlework Resources - above period 
broken down by location, date and techniques. 
Some of the links to extant pieces may be broken 
as the museums etc keep changing their databases, 
but it will get her to the correct institution where she can search.
 
The quickest way to find extant examples is by 
looking in the "Period" section, which is then 
broken down by location and technique.
 
>No need for anything beyond Europe or outside the 1300-1600 range.
 
In relation to blackwork, I think that would be a 
mistake - look at the Mamluk embroidery such as 
the one on my site: 
http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_middle_east_mamluk.html 
and compare to the 16th C modelbuch patterns used 
a source by embroiderers in the 16th Century - almost identical.
 
>Thanks for all your help!
>
>--Robin
 
If she has specific questions I can probably 
chase down specific sources. I'm at work and don't have my books on
hand.
 
Cheers,
Jane
 

 
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Robin,
Does she have German? How about:
Mit Nadel und Faden: Kulturgeschichte der klassischen Handarbeiten by Marianne Stradal ISBN-13: 978-3451216084 

My German is quite rusty so I'll admit that I bought this for the pictures. It seemed to have many outside the usual survey stuff. Library catalogs say that this has bibliographic references. It might be good for trianglulating definitions.

Cheers,
Mary



Robin sent:
> She asks for recommendations of good published sources that
> will give her a 
> sense of what blackwork is and when it was done, based on
> specific examples 
> (art, documents, and especially surviving artifacts). She
> needs sources she 
> can cite in a formal paper, so Web sites will not do.
> Neither will how-to 
> books that include a little historical background (e.g.
> that something was 
> done in X century) but do not provide sources or evidence.

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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Oh, I forgot-- there's a living history museum in Portsmouth too,
Strawbery Banke (that was what the original settlers called the place
when they came over in the early 1600s, because of the wild strawberries
growing everywhere). They have a new exhibition space with occasional
costume shown, plenty in storage, plus a few roleplayers (ever-shifting
number). It's unique in that it doesn't focus on one time period, but
rather shows the history of the place from 1600s up to 1950. Each house
is a different date, most are original, some were moved to the site.
Most houses do not have roleplayers, but there's kit for Rev War, early
1800s, 1830s, 1870s, 19teens, WWII  (I know, because I used to do their
reproduction costumes!)

Also Plimoth Plantation, gem of living history museums. Everything
Williamsburg should be and isn't. They have an incredible program going
on now, a collaborative embroidery of a 17th c. jacket.... (MUST find
the time to get on that!!! Sigh...)

Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>:

> Ages ago I forwarded a question about blackwork to this list on behalf of a
> colleague. You folks were very helpful, so I'm coming back with an   
> add-on query.
>

*snip*

>
> Bonus points if you can also point her to a good overview source on known
> embroidery styles from, say, 1300-1600, based on surviving pieces, so she can
> get a sense of other known styles of this period and compare them with what
> she learns about "blackwork." I think she does not have much of a sense of
> just how much is known about specific embroidery styles, and how   
> many types of embroidery there were in this period.
>

The "bible" is Schuette & Christensen's "A Pictorial History of  
Embroidery."  It's chock full of pictures of extant pieces.   
Unfortunately most of the photos are in black and white, but they  
provide info on each piece -- colors, stitches, ground fabric type, etc.

King & Levey's "The Victoria and Albert Museum's Collection:  
Embroidery in Britain from 1200-1750.  All color pictures.  :-D

Bridgeman & Drury's Needlework "An Illustrated History"  More text  
than either of the above books -- they're mostly "picture books."

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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On Thu, 01 May 2008 08:18:45 -0500 "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
writes:
> Pretty much everything that Jane said below :).
>  
> I would add George W. Digby's "Elizabethan Embroidery (Faber & 
> Faber,
> 1963) for a good broader perspective on blackwork and embroidery in 
> the
> latter 16th C.
>  
> Mamluk is a MUST!  I don't have the titles in front of me but I 
> think a
> couple of books by Kathleen Epstein/Staples touch on this too.
>  
> Catherine

It's my understanding that Thomas (?) Trevelon's book is being re-issued,
and it is an amazing--if pricey--source.

Jane Ashelford's book on Elizabethan dress (sorry, been up 5 minutes and
can't remember the title) is a wonderful source for the contexts of
embroidery.

Arlys

Arlys
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>
> On Apr 30, 2008, at 2:23 PM, Julie wrote:
>>
>> I made a coat dress/Spanish Surcoat which has frogs up the whole  
>> front opening.  I'm trying to get documentation on the use of  
>> frogs in Elizabethan England.  There are a couple of pictures in  
>> Janet Arnold.  Does anyone have some links to either portraits or  
>> other primary type docs showing use of frogs and/or how the  
>> specific ones shown were tied?
>>

On May 1, 2008, at 5:39 AM, Wanda Pease wrote:

> I love Frog closures too but they don't seem to be standard on English
> Elizabethans.  However, there is a painting of Elizabeth in a white  
> dress
> with frogs, labeled "Polish Dress" and one of the fameous ones  
> where she is
> much older, holding gloves, the dress of a light color with orange  
> frogging
> (?).

It depends on how you define frogging.  We tend to think of frogs as  
a fancy piece of knotted cord on each side, one with a knotted ball  
of cord making a button, the other with a loop.  The two examples you  
give are of a different design.  Each has a flat horizontal piece of  
trim extending out in both directions from the center front with  
decorative tufts at the outer ends.  At the center is a button and  
loop closure.  This style is thought to have originated with Polish  
coats that had similar decorative fastenings (See Queen Eliz's  
Wardrobe Unlock'd pp. 136-8.  She notes that the term "frogging" was  
not used in the 16th c.).

The only other possibility I can think of is the portrait of  
Elizabeth of Valois showing knots of pearls down the center front:

http://www.mystudios.com/women/abcde/sofonisba_valois.jpg

It doesn't look as though the buttons and loops are integral with the  
knots (and I'm not sure how they could be, since the knots are  
strands of pearls), so it's still not quite a cognate with modern  
frogging in a structural sense.  But it does have some of the  
aesthetic idea of decorative knots associated with fastenings.  Can  
you extrapolate from this isolated example to justify modern  
frogging?  Your call.

Melanie Schuessler



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At 02:46 AM 5/1/2008, you wrote:
>I always thought frog closures were a chinese invention? Learn 
>something new everyday!

 From the little research I can do with my slowly growing Chinese 
costuming library, I see ties closing clothing until the 16th c. or 
so.  Even then, it's a simple monkey fist and loop.  I am sure, that 
your fancy loops and twists of the modern frog are either Russian or 
Polish (or surrounds) in origin.  The Chinese seem to prefer a simple 
button and loop type.

They might have come west, but truly are very late, relatively speaking.

Genie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Sewing Machine
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I've really only wanted fairly basic sewing machines before in my life, 
just good sturdy machines to sew with, the usual simple stitches.  I 
started out with a treadle, then I had an incredibly sturdy early Singer 
electric with a bentwood case that in retrospect I wish I hadn't parted 
with, then I had a Sears Kenmore that I used for years, till I beat it 
to death. After that I bought a lemon model of a Bernina that never 
worked right, which I gather is not typical for Bernina and they soon 
took it off the market, but it's turned me off Berninas ever since. 
Within a month I traded it in for the Viking I have now.

I like my current Viking, it's a good machine with the usual array of 
basic stitches, and really I mostly use the straight stitch. It still 
works great. It's just that I love embroidery, and I don't have time to 
hand embroider and still do everything else in life.

I downloaded some materials on both the Viking Designer SE and the new 
Pfaff Creative Vision. They both look extremely tempting. They both have 
an incredible array of features. The proprietary software for both seems 
identical (probably third-party product licensed to both manufacturers), 
so that's not a consideration. The Pfaff Creative Vision does seem to 
have the largest field, but I'm biased in favor of the Viking because I 
already have a more basic Viking and I like it.

So one thing I want to know is, suppose I want to embroider a large 
design that is not composed of repeating patterns/identical units. A 
design larger than the field, whatever that field is. Can either machine 
tile a pattern stored in memory?  Can I embroider a huge parrot by 
dividing the design into sections and telling the machine, now I'll do 
section 1A, then 1B, then 2A, and so on?

The other thing I'm trying to figure out is how to use designs scanned 
from antique magazines.  I see that the proprietary software allows the 
use of a digitizing tablet, but I've always found scanning to be easier. 
  I already have a large-format flatbed scanner. So can I scan an 
antique public-domain design on the scanner, program stitches for the 
bitmap using the proprietary software, and then embroider that?

Another thing I really want and have not so far found, is the kind of 
list computer manufacturers give you for parts. That is, a list of every 
single kind of foot, hoop, and other accessory not included with the 
machine but which can be used with the machine if you need that 
accessory, complete with prices.

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Paula Praxis wrote:
> I got the new Pfaff Creative Vision for Christmas last and I am loving it.  

<snip>
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Software for machines was New Sewing Machine
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One of my girlfriends has a husband that works for Microsoft. He loves their
embroidery machine. He uses it more than she does! :)

Anyhow, he found some non-proprietary software that works with most machines
if not all. We have used it over and over again for designs we made
ourselves. 

I will ask him what it is but in the mean time, now that we have changed the
subject heading maybe others will chime in with what software they found. :)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Sewing Machine

I've really only wanted fairly basic sewing machines before in my life, 
just good sturdy machines to sew with, the usual simple stitches.  I 
started out with a treadle, then I had an incredibly sturdy early Singer 
electric with a bentwood case that in retrospect I wish I hadn't parted 
with, then I had a Sears Kenmore that I used for years, till I beat it 
to death. After that I bought a lemon model of a Bernina that never 
worked right, which I gather is not typical for Bernina and they soon 
took it off the market, but it's turned me off Berninas ever since. 
Within a month I traded it in for the Viking I have now.

I like my current Viking, it's a good machine with the usual array of 
basic stitches, and really I mostly use the straight stitch. It still 
works great. It's just that I love embroidery, and I don't have time to 
hand embroider and still do everything else in life.

I downloaded some materials on both the Viking Designer SE and the new 
Pfaff Creative Vision. They both look extremely tempting. They both have 
an incredible array of features. The proprietary software for both seems 
identical (probably third-party product licensed to both manufacturers), 
so that's not a consideration. The Pfaff Creative Vision does seem to 
have the largest field, but I'm biased in favor of the Viking because I 
already have a more basic Viking and I like it.

So one thing I want to know is, suppose I want to embroider a large 
design that is not composed of repeating patterns/identical units. A 
design larger than the field, whatever that field is. Can either machine 
tile a pattern stored in memory?  Can I embroider a huge parrot by 
dividing the design into sections and telling the machine, now I'll do 
section 1A, then 1B, then 2A, and so on?

The other thing I'm trying to figure out is how to use designs scanned 
from antique magazines.  I see that the proprietary software allows the 
use of a digitizing tablet, but I've always found scanning to be easier. 
  I already have a large-format flatbed scanner. So can I scan an 
antique public-domain design on the scanner, program stitches for the 
bitmap using the proprietary software, and then embroider that?

Another thing I really want and have not so far found, is the kind of 
list computer manufacturers give you for parts. That is, a list of every 
single kind of foot, hoop, and other accessory not included with the 
machine but which can be used with the machine if you need that 
accessory, complete with prices.

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Paula Praxis wrote:
> I got the new Pfaff Creative Vision for Christmas last and I am loving it.


<snip>
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Thanks!

I am wondering for historic-type embroidery (of any historic period) 
people are using the predigitized designs around, which I have not 
checked into very much.  All I've really done, is the Viking site is 
offering a deal with a kind of coupon for $1,000 of their own 
accessories of your choice, feet and so on, which sounds good to me. 
However, since Viking does not seem to be selling machines directly off 
their site in any way I can perceive so far, this must be available only 
from participating vendors.

Anyway, the deal also includes a $500 coupon for a place that sells 
predigitized designs, and I have to say theirs didn't excite me all that 
much. However, it looks like everybody and their dog may be selling 
digitized embroidery designs. Does anyone speciailize in historic 
designs of any kind?  I want to digitize my own, but if anyone is 
selling ones I might really like and which might save me some work at 
some point, I'd like to know about that also.

It's been so long since I bought a machine I really don't know the 
market any more. I saw some new Viking Designers SE for sale on eBay, 
but I'm kind of afraid to buy a sewing machine off eBay.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Chiara Francesca wrote:
> One of my girlfriends has a husband that works for Microsoft. He loves their
> embroidery machine. He uses it more than she does! :)
> 
> Anyhow, he found some non-proprietary software that works with most machines
> if not all. We have used it over and over again for designs we made
> ourselves. 
> 
> I will ask him what it is but in the mean time, now that we have changed the
> subject heading maybe others will chime in with what software they found. :)
> 
> Chiara Francesca
> 
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On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 1:56 PM, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>  It's been so long since I bought a machine I really don't know the
>  market any more. I saw some new Viking Designers SE for sale on eBay,
>  but I'm kind of afraid to buy a sewing machine off eBay.
>
>
>  Fran
>  Lavolta Press
>  http://www.lavoltapress.com
>

>From previous experience, I wouldn't buy a sewing machine off of ebay
unless it was available for local pick-up.  Also keep in mind that it
will be much easier to get warranty service if you work with a local
dealer.

As for your various questions...  Pfaff and Husqvarna are owned by the
same company now (VSM group), hence their near-identical software,
which is produced by another division of the company.  The primary
third party software competitor is Embird, which is less expensive,
but you'll need to research compatibility for particular machines, and
it doesn't look like it's seen a major update recently.  All of the
design programs should allow you to split a design into multiple parts
to do embroideries larger than the hoop size.  The trick is
repositioning precisely to start the second (and later) sections so
that everything lines up properly.  Features for making this easier
vary - your best bet is asking a dealer to demonstrate it.

Part of the reason for all the recent discounts on Viking Designers is
that it looks like they're introducing a new top-of-the-line machine
later this year, I've been getting a lot of e-mail hype about it.

- Catrijn
(who has still never actually USED the embroidery portion of her Platinum 950E)
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<snip>

All of the
> design programs should allow you to split a design into multiple parts
> to do embroideries larger than the hoop size.  The trick is
> repositioning precisely to start the second (and later) sections so
> that everything lines up properly. 

Good--that means the embroidery field size does not matter as much.

> 
> Part of the reason for all the recent discounts on Viking Designers is
> that it looks like they're introducing a new top-of-the-line machine
> later this year, I've been getting a lot of e-mail hype about it.
> 
> - Catrijn
>

I was wondering whether the discounts were just because this is the kind 
  of computer purchase where you never really pay list price anyway, or 
because Viking was about to introduce a new model.  Because it seems 
just like buying other computer s/w and h/w, the manufacturer upgrades 
to a new version ten minutes after you buy the former version.

So, I am glad to know about the new model. When do they say they are 
introducing it, and what advantages do they say it has over the old model?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 2:28 PM, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>  I was wondering whether the discounts were just because this is the kind
>   of computer purchase where you never really pay list price anyway, or
>  because Viking was about to introduce a new model.  Because it seems
>  just like buying other computer s/w and h/w, the manufacturer upgrades
>  to a new version ten minutes after you buy the former version.
>
>  So, I am glad to know about the new model. When do they say they are
>  introducing it, and what advantages do they say it has over the old model?
>

What they are saying so far is practically nothing.  The info-light, media-heavy
pre-launch website is here:
http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/mediafiles/dd/prelaunch/index_en_US.htm

I should also note that with the exception of very new models, all
these machines
go on sale frequently - you shouldn't pay full price (ever, IMO).
It's just that the
discounts currently are a bit bigger than usual.

-Catrijn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
> Where in NH?

I'll be within commuting distance of Dartmouth, but I'm willing to drive a 
few hours to get my costuming jollies.  I'm not willing to go as far as NYC, 
but anything in New England or even possibly the bits of Canada around 
Montreal is on tap.  I may even get up the nerve to visit Yale's collection 
of illuminated manuscripts!

-E House


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Well, welcome!

I've been told wonders about this fabric store, but haven't been there
myself yet.
Delectable Mountain, in Brattleboro VT-- about an hour away from your
soon-to-be home!
http://www.delectablemountain.com/


Astrida
*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road 
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of Exstock
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:06 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
> > Where in NH?
> 
> I'll be within commuting distance of Dartmouth, but I'm willing to
drive a
> few hours to get my costuming jollies.  I'm not willing to go as far
as
> NYC,
> but anything in New England or even possibly the bits of Canada around
> Montreal is on tap.  I may even get up the nerve to visit Yale's
> collection
> of illuminated manuscripts!
> 
> -E House
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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I see what you mean about info-light. I am thinking of waiting till it 
comes out and seeing if the new features are better and so on.  How long 
after a machine comes out does the sale cycle start, and how often do 
they go on sale?

Thanks,

Fran


> 
> What they are saying so far is practically nothing.  The info-light, media-heavy
> pre-launch website is here:
> http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/mediafiles/dd/prelaunch/index_en_US.htm
> 
> I should also note that with the exception of very new models, all
> these machines
> go on sale frequently - you shouldn't pay full price (ever, IMO).
> It's just that the
> discounts currently are a bit bigger than usual.
> 
> -Catrijn
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> 
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20080430.222827.3300.2.Cley@juno.com><00dc01c8ab57$9f4e6a80$eb00a8c0@compaqub><ADBBA97D58D4F849920981A2C5C243FC01009AC0@MARMOSET.ad.unh.edu><00ee01c8abbe$53ebaff0$eb00a8c0@compaqub>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
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WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO, thanks a lot, they have the red/ black silk jacquard i 
can use for the Estrup renaissance dress i am going to make, ben looking so 
manny places without any results.
I am glad this shop isnt here in Copenhagen :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH


> Well, welcome!
>
> I've been told wonders about this fabric store, but haven't been there
> myself yet.
> Delectable Mountain, in Brattleboro VT-- about an hour away from your
> soon-to-be home!
> http://www.delectablemountain.com/
>
>
> Astrida
> *******************************
> Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
> Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
> Paul Creative Arts Center
> 30 College Road
> Durham, NH 03824-3538
> 603-862-0310
> FAX: 603-862-2191
>
> www.unh.edu/art-gallery
> *******************************
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On
>> Behalf Of Exstock
>> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:06 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
>> > Where in NH?
>>
>> I'll be within commuting distance of Dartmouth, but I'm willing to
> drive a
>> few hours to get my costuming jollies.  I'm not willing to go as far
> as
>> NYC,
>> but anything in New England or even possibly the bits of Canada around
>> Montreal is on tap.  I may even get up the nerve to visit Yale's
>> collection
>> of illuminated manuscripts!
>>
>> -E House
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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: )

Glad to help!

; )

Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road 
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:24 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
> 
> WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO, thanks a lot, they have the red/ black silk
jacquard i
> can use for the Estrup renaissance dress i am going to make, ben
looking
> so
> manny places without any results.
> I am glad this shop isnt here in Copenhagen :-)
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 9:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
> 
> 
> > Well, welcome!
> >
> > I've been told wonders about this fabric store, but haven't been
there
> > myself yet.
> > Delectable Mountain, in Brattleboro VT-- about an hour away from
your
> > soon-to-be home!
> > http://www.delectablemountain.com/
> >
> >
> > Astrida
> > *******************************
> > Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
> > Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
> > Paul Creative Arts Center
> > 30 College Road
> > Durham, NH 03824-3538
> > 603-862-0310
> > FAX: 603-862-2191
> >
> > www.unh.edu/art-gallery
> > *******************************
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> > On
> >> Behalf Of Exstock
> >> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:06 PM
> >> To: Historical Costume
> >> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
> >> > Where in NH?
> >>
> >> I'll be within commuting distance of Dartmouth, but I'm willing to
> > drive a
> >> few hours to get my costuming jollies.  I'm not willing to go as
far
> > as
> >> NYC,
> >> but anything in New England or even possibly the bits of Canada
around
> >> Montreal is on tap.  I may even get up the nerve to visit Yale's
> >> collection
> >> of illuminated manuscripts!
> >>
> >> -E House
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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I have a Designer SE, and I love it!  You may want to wait until next  month 
to buy.  The latest top of the line Viking is to come out then.   There is 
much speculation as to what features it will have, but the general idea  is that 
it will have the same large field as the Pfaff.  Based on past  experience, 
there will be a number of SE's (and probably also some Designer 1's  - also an 
excellent machine) traded in for the new TOL.  I have found the  Designers to 
be so much fun that owning one really recharged my  interest in machine sewing.
 
It is important when purchasing a machine that you get one from a reliable  
dealer who will provide solid support after the sale.  These are  computerized 
machines and have to be updated (by download) periodically.  I  would 
recommend finding a dealer who provides regular owner classes (not just  one lesson) 
if at all possible.  The software program Viking has is also a  lot of fun and 
fairly user friendly if you want to digitize.  Again,  classes are really 
useful, although the tutorials are pretty good.  If you  do end up buying a 
machine I strongly recommend joining the Designer SE Yahoo  user group.  The people 
on there have an amazing amount of knowledge and  are very generous with 
sharing.
 
Nancy




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
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MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:
>  
> I have a Designer SE, and I love it!  You may want to wait until next  month 
> to buy.  The latest top of the line Viking is to come out then.   There is 
> much speculation as to what features it will have, but the general idea  is that 
> it will have the same large field as the Pfaff. 

Now that is exactly what I am hoping for.
>  
> It is important when purchasing a machine that you get one from a reliable  
> dealer who will provide solid support after the sale.  These are  computerized 
> machines and have to be updated (by download) periodically.

But I could do the downloads myself, right?  As I do for the s/w on my 
computer. I see what you mean about local tech support though, as 
there's always some chance, however small, of getting a defective 
machine or otherwise having technical problems.

BTW, are their "embroidery sticks" machine-specific in any way, or can 
you use any computer data stick/flash drive?

Thanks,

Fran


   I  would
> recommend finding a dealer who provides regular owner classes (not just  one lesson) 
> if at all possible.  The software program Viking has is also a  lot of fun and 
> fairly user friendly if you want to digitize.  Again,  classes are really 
> useful, although the tutorials are pretty good.  If you  do end up buying a 
> machine I strongly recommend joining the Designer SE Yahoo  user group.  The people 
> on there have an amazing amount of knowledge and  are very generous with 
> sharing.
>  
> Nancy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
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Lavolta Press wrote:
> But I could do the downloads myself, right?  As I do for the s/w on my 
> computer. I see what you mean about local tech support though, as 
> there's always some chance, however small, of getting a defective 
> machine or otherwise having technical problems.

AFAIK, most updates to the machine are user-installable. Some may 
require a visit to the shop, though.

One of the big reasons for going to a good dealer is the start-up 
training. Embroidery machines in general, and Viking embroidery machines 
in particular, are very feature-rich systems. Without training owners 
often spend several years doing things in difficult and inefficient ways 
because they don't know about less obvious advanced options.

> BTW, are their "embroidery sticks" machine-specific in any way, or can 
> you use any computer data stick/flash drive?

I believe they're just ordinary USB flash drives formatted for Windows.

andy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Software for machines was New Sewing Machine
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Embrid
http://www.embird.com/

This is the software they use for their own designs.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 2:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Software for machines was New Sewing Machine


I see what you mean about info-light. I am thinking of waiting till it 
comes out and seeing if the new features are better and so on.  How long 
after a machine comes out does the sale cycle start, and how often do 
they go on sale?

Thanks,

Fran


> 
> What they are saying so far is practically nothing.  The info-light,
media-heavy
> pre-launch website is here:
> http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/mediafiles/dd/prelaunch/index_en_US.htm
> 
> I should also note that with the exception of very new models, all
> these machines
> go on sale frequently - you shouldn't pay full price (ever, IMO).
> It's just that the
> discounts currently are a bit bigger than usual.
> 
> -Catrijn
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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Since you mention that you will be in New Hampshire I have to  
recommend that you go to the Hood Art Museum at Dartmouth.  I was  
there for a non-costuming reason and just happened to have time to  
wander to their museum.  They have great early things (a wonderful  
early middle eastern art display) and many later American and  
European paintings.  Of course, having the Rockefellers attend your  
school probably helps the art collection... also there is a great  
Orozco mural in the basement of the Baker Library building -- and the  
admission was free.

Agnes
On Apr 30, 2008, at 11:47 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 01:50:19 -0500
> From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sorry,  had to laugh
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <00dc01c8ab57$9f4e6a80$eb00a8c0@compaqub>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> ----- Original Message ----- >
> On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:49:15 -0700 "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> writes:
>> Since my migraines are pressure triggered,  I'm
>> pretty miserable even though I really love the green this produces
>> as well as the coolness!
>
> Not to glory in your pain, but I'm very relieved to hear this--the  
> husband
> and I recently decided for sure NOT to move to WA (going to NH  
> instead!) and
> we both get pressure/weather migraines.  Sour grapes and all, but  
> I'm glad
> to have one less reason not to regret our decision!
>
> -E
> PS--anyone have any suggestions for costume or museum related  
> destinations
> in the northeast?
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
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Fran wrote:
> But I could do the downloads myself, right?  As I do for the s/w on my 

I've done them myself (when I remember to actually do them).

> BTW, are their "embroidery sticks" machine-specific in any way, or can 
> you use any computer data stick/flash drive?

I've used whatever USB stick/key/flashdrive I have handy, which usually isn't the one that came with the machine. However, the dealers are required to tell you that they can't offer technical support if you don't use the Viking stick or one on their approved list.

You can also transfer embroidery designs by plugging the machine directly into your computer, the machine has a USB port. I think it appears like another harrdrive on your machine, I haven't done this in a while so don't remember.

Ditto what Nancy said, June is the big Viking dealer convention and they're announcing the new machine then. Which means used Designer SE's may flood the market (including mine, *wink* *wink*).



Claudine

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Fran writes:

But I  could do the downloads myself, right?  As I do for the s/w on my  
computer. I see what you mean about local tech support though, as  
there's always some chance, however small, of getting a defective  
machine or otherwise having technical problems.

BTW, are their  "embroidery sticks" machine-specific in any way, or can 
you use any  computer data stick/flash drive?



Yes, you can do the downloads yourself.  The machine (SE) comes with a  USB 
cable to connect the machine with the computer as well as the software to  set 
up the connection.  
 
HV has a listing of which sticks are compatible on their website.   There 
have been some issues with compatibility in the past, so you do need to  pay 
attention.
 
It depends on the individual dealer as to when machines go on sale.   One of 
the best times to buy is when they have an all day class where they  bring in 
a lot of machines and let people take the class using the  machine.  I had 
already bought my machine, and was depressed when I heard  what the sale price 
was on the demo machines.  At this time it depends on  how soon you want a 
machine - for the new TOL I would expect to see a price  somewhere in the $7500 - 
8200 ball park (and I may be completely wrong).
 
I generally don't care much for the HV designs, although occasionally there  
are some nice ones.  They tend to be pricey relative to the  competition.  If 
you get a machine I would recommend looking at Embroidery  Library.  They have 
attractive, well-digitized designs, and they run sales  fairly frequently.  
To bring it back to a historic perspective, they have  some nice blackwork and 
Jacobean designs (although they're getting a bit far out  of typical Jacobean 
patterns based on their latest Jacobean sea  creatures). 
 
Hope that helps,
 
Nancy



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At this time it depends on  how soon you want a
> machine - for the new TOL I would expect to see a price  somewhere in the $7500 - 
> 8200 ball park (and I may be completely wrong).

And I assume that doesn't include their proprietary s/w embroidery 
editing package, or anything extra in terms of special feet, 
different-sized hoops, etc.?  I assume they give you some feet and hoops 
with the machine but perhaps not everything I'd want.

I may be wrong, it's been so long since I bought my old Viking, but I 
dimly remember dickering with the salespeople and getting a discount, 
like buying a car.

Where's a good website to buy machine embroidery thread BTW?

As I said, my old Viking is perfectly functional, though not 
top-of-the-line in its time. Is there any convenience to having one 
machine set up for sewing and another for embroidery, considering I 
already have one just for sewing?  I'm already wondering if, when I 
upgrade my computer, I should be putting my old one in the sewing room, 
considering I've always had my sewing room separate from my office and 
am likely to continue to want things that way.

Thanks,

Fran

>  
> I generally don't care much for the HV designs, although occasionally there  
> are some nice ones.  They tend to be pricey relative to the  competition.  If 
> you get a machine I would recommend looking at Embroidery  Library.  They have 
> attractive, well-digitized designs, and they run sales  fairly frequently.  
> To bring it back to a historic perspective, they have  some nice blackwork and 
> Jacobean designs (although they're getting a bit far out  of typical Jacobean 
> patterns based on their latest Jacobean sea  creatures). 
>  
> Hope that helps,
>  
> Nancy
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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I took over  Astrida"s position at Strawbery Banke, but I did stop at =

this fabric store on some of my may trips to Wilmington, VT.  My feeling =

was that the prices were out of my range and that of the museum as =

well.  I've hear that their client=E8le is doll clothes makers.

Dot Fisher
> I've been told wonders about this fabric store, but haven't been there
> > myself yet.
> > Delectable Mountain, in Brattleboro VT-- about an hour away from your
> > soon-to-be home!
> > http://www.delectablemountain.com/
> >
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
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But I could do the downloads myself, right?  As I do for the s/w on my
computer. I see what you mean about local tech support though, as
there's always some chance, however small, of getting a defective
machine or otherwise having technical problems.

BTW, are their "embroidery sticks" machine-specific in any way, or can
you use any computer data stick/flash drive?

Thanks,

Fran


I never bought a machine from a dealer before my embroidery machine, because 
I never was buying the higher-end machines. (And my PE750D is not exactly 
high end, still, but it's the most I ever spent on a machine.) After this 
one experience, I can't imagine buying from a store instead of a dealer ever 
again. My dealer has been terrific.

AFAIK, the higher-end embroidery machines can use regular USB memory sticks. 
My machine takes a reader/writer card and a convertor box. I almost got the 
machine with the thumb drive capability, but I really liked the operation of 
the one I chose instead, and since I already had the convertor box, it 
wasn't much of an issue.

Dianne 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Machines
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Where's a good website to buy machine embroidery thread BTW?

As I said, my old Viking is perfectly functional, though not
top-of-the-line in its time. Is there any convenience to having one
machine set up for sewing and another for embroidery, considering I
already have one just for sewing?

http://www.bfc-stash.com
http://www.longcreekmills.com
http://www.melco-mart.com
http://www.anembroideredaffair.com

All have good prices on thread and stabilizers. The only one I have personal 
knowledge of is bef-stash, as I have purchased several designs from them, 
and I have always been satisfied. The others, I've heard numerous good 
reports on.

Dianne 

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From: Jane Stockton <jane_stockton@webcon.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Standard reference books on embroidery history?
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At 12:19 AM 2/05/2008, you wrote:


>On Thu, 01 May 2008 08:18:45 -0500 "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
>writes:
> > Pretty much everything that Jane said below :).
> >
> > I would add George W. Digby's "Elizabethan Embroidery (Faber &
> > Faber,
> > 1963) for a good broader perspective on blackwork and embroidery in
> > the
> > latter 16th C.
> >
> > Mamluk is a MUST!  I don't have the titles in front of me but I
> > think a
> > couple of books by Kathleen Epstein/Staples touch on this too.
> >
> > Catherine
>
>It's my understanding that Thomas (?) Trevelon's book is being re-issued,
>and it is an amazing--if pricey--source.

I've looked at the Trevelyon copy I managed to talk my library into 
buying! It is very, very good. Great blackwork patterns for mens 
nightcaps, lots of "overall" patterns that could be adapted for coifs 
or other large area patterns.

So it's a good source for patterns but not really context.

>Jane Ashelford's book on Elizabethan dress (sorry, been up 5 minutes and
>can't remember the title) is a wonderful source for the contexts of
>embroidery.
>
>Arlys
>
>Arlys

Cheers,
Jane


------------------------------------
Jane Stockton - jane_stockton@webcon.net.au
Barony of Mordenvale, Kingdom of Lochac

In Prayse of the Needle - http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/ (personal website)
Historical Needlework Resources - http://medieval.webcon.net.au/ 
(resource website)
The Needles' Excellency - http://laren.blogspot.com/ (blog)

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Now from the hype which is nothing it tells you nothing but I was told this
is about a new machine.  Pfaff which is now part of Husqvarna has the
largest stitch out space on the market today.  But I was pretty sure
Husqvarna was not going to allow that to continue.  The program now for
Husqvarna is the 4D Edition. It came out last year and they have not said
they are going to implement a new one soon.  I think all of us who had the
3D and are just getting used to the 4D (Classes we waited for up to 6 months
for and are still in the process of taking) so I can't wait to see what the
new machine will do.  My Designer SE is only 2 years old this April so if
they have something that knocks my socks off, I might upgrade to the new
machine.  The 4D is very simple to you and it has a pretty large stitch out
plus the continuing version. It is pretty simple to make up fonts and to
make designs really, I have heard Generations is also very simple to use.

Typically they will give you a trade in allowance for the new machine, I
used my extremely old Pfaff and I got $1,500.00 off of the SE during the
Mother's day sale.


Cilean


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You folks are gems. I passed all the recommendations that came to me -- books, 
websites, and people -- to my colleague. She writes, "What a wealth of 
resources!---I do thank you and all of your friends for the references and 
input." She also says that beyond what she'll need for her paper, she's 
becoming interested in blackwork for its own sake, and is very glad for all 
the additional resources.

Depending on what exactly makes it into the paper, there is a chance she will 
wish to cite individuals who assisted. If that happens, I will contact those 
people directly. I have saved all the e-mails. Jane, I've given her your 
contact information directly, since you offered it, and I think also that your 
website will be much more useful to her than she could have anticipated when 
she asked me for books.

I add my own thanks to my friend's.

--Robin

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> > > Delectable Mountain, in Brattleboro VT

(snip)

> My feeling was that the prices were out of my range and that of the
> museum as well.  I've hear that their client?le is doll clothes
> makers.

<snip>

Yes, the stuff there (although delicious -- the proprietor has exquisite
taste) is certainly not cheap.  They do have (IIRC) two huge sales per year
and that is when you need to shop to buy.  It's not a sale in name only,
either; I remember scoring several silks at what was approximately 50 - 60%
their usual prices.

They have (or did have; I'm going on rather old knowledge here) a mailing
list and will mail you a postcard for these sales.  If you're in the area, I
highly recommend them.  The store is always worth a visit for the
inspiration.

Richard in MI
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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] New book from Oxbow Press:  Dressing the Past
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Status: RO

I received the email from David Brown Book =

Company today.  It sounds like a fascinating book.


Dressing the Past



edited by Margarita Gleba, Cherine Munkholt and Marie-Louise Nosch

Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and =

Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, gold =

sheet figures, Vikings, Medieval saints and =

sinners, Renaissance noblemen, Danish peasants, =

dressmakers and Hollywood stars appear in the =

pages of this anthology. This is not necessarily =

how they dressed in the past, but how the authors =

of this book think they dressed in the past, and =

why they think so. No reader of this book will =

ever look at a reconstructed costume in a museum =

or at a historical festival, or watch a film with =

a historic theme again without a heightened =

awareness of how, why, and from what sources, the =

costumes were reconstructed. The seventeen =

contributors come from a variety of disciplines: =

archaeologists, historians, curators with =

ethnological and anthropological backgrounds, =

designers, a weaver, a conservator and a scholar =

of fashion in cinema, and are all specialists =

interested in ancient or historical dress who =

wish to share their knowledge and expertise with =

students, hobby enthusiasts and the general =

reader. The anthology is also recommended for use =

in teaching students at design schools. 190, b/w =

illus, 32p col illus. (Oxbow Books 2008)
ISBN-13: 978-1-84217-269  Paperback. Publishers =

price US $50.00, DBBC Price US $40.00
ISBN-10: 1-84217-269-7


Table of Contents

Introduction by the Editors; Haute Couture in the =

Bronze Age: A History of Minoan Female Costumes =

from Thera (Marie-Louise B Nosch); You are What =

You Wear: Scythian Costume as Identity (Margarita =

Gleba); "On the Borders of East and West": A =

Reconstruction of Roman Provincial and Barbarian =

Dress in the Hungarian National Museum (Ilona =

Hendzsel, Eszter Istv=E1novits, Val=E9ria Kulcs=E1r, =

Dorottya Ligeti, Andrea =D3vari and Judit =

P=E1szt=F2kai-Sze?ke); A Weaver's Voice: Making =

Reconstructions of Danish Iron Age Textiles (Anna =

N=F8rgaard); Iconography and Costume from the Late =

Iron Age in Scandinavia (Ulla Mannering); Tools, =

Textile Production and Society in Viking Age =

Birka (Eva B Andersson); Spotlight on Medieval =

Scandinavian Dress: Sources and Interpretations =

(Kathrine Vestergaard Pedersen); Tailored =

Criticism: The Use of Renaissance and Baroque =

Garments as Sources of Information (Cecilia =

Aneer); Costume in a Museological Context: =

Dealing with Costume and Dress from Modern Danish =

History (Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen and Helle =

Leilund); Cut, Stitch and Fabrics: Female Dress =

in the Past 200 Years (Maj Ringgaard); Ancient =

Female Costume from Silent Cinema to Hollywood =

Glamour (Annette Borrell); Timeline (Agnete Wisti Lassen).


Here's the link to the book entry in the =

catalog:  http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=3D80134&MID=3D25998

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net =

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Subject: [h-cost] Best time to buy a machine ( was Re: Husqvarna Viking
	Machines
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Status: RO

My favorite time to buy is always late summer / early fall at the County 
Fair.  Find the sewing pavillian and be prepared to spend a while 
hanging out and testing.  ALL the dealers will be there so you can cross 
compare machines.

You can buy a demo machine at a great discount and often they have fab 
packages to go with.  Sometimes you just "reserve" the demo and pick it 
up towards end of fair, sometimes you get it at that time.

Do  your research in advance... so you know a bit about if you're going 
for the latest model or just looking for a great deal.

Warning....  while you get to look and see everything, you're also going 
to be working with their best sales folks.  If you're going to be 
getting something on the top end.... unless you go in knowing the other 
prices... collect the info... and take a breather.   At least get away 
from that area for a few hours.  Better... overnight at least to do 
research on the web.   Check the cost of the "extras" to see if you're 
getting a good deal on those too.  (Most times you do, but 
sometimes...)  If you're not buying the absolutely latest machine, 
confirm the price you're getting on the "older" model really is a deal.  
(Again, most times it's a steal... but occasionally hard-sell salesmen 
are dumping on commission.... if you come back with real prices... those 
prices will dump and you don't have to worry about getting it mail 
order.)  

The good thing: these machines are being demoed by real experts so you 
can really see everything they can do.   Insist on a test drive.  While 
the big guns are demoing... these machines are backed by a local sewing 
center.  OK, in a really big city, "local" may be relative... but still 
you've got someone you can drive to.  Often local dealers will give 
"free" lessons.  (Note, the lessons, they're going to try and sell you 
more stuff while you go along... but if you buy the good foot pack at 
the show, you already have the extra feet.)

One more warning... don't let them push you into overbuying what you 
need.   You'll feel like a kid in a mega candy store... but if you're 
coming in for just a good sturdy sewing machine... (Viking), you don't 
need a lot of the funky bells and whistles, keep your head down and buy 
what you need and stick to your budget.  Then again... if you are going 
for that new Viking Embroidery machine...  hey, it's just your Christmas 
present for the next 3 years (or your next car)... and just enjoy.

-Cat-


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Thanks you all for your kind advice, I'll think I'll go into buying some of these booklets - even if they might not be exactly what I would like, they could be a good reference later:-)

Zuzana

       
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Cat Devereaux wrote:
> My favorite time to buy is always late summer / early fall at the County 
> Fair.  Find the sewing pavillian and be prepared to spend a while 
> hanging out and testing. 

However, some of the best deals are going on right now, in the weeks 
just before Mother's Day. Everybody wants you to buy a sewing machine 
for mom, and many models are on sale.


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] CC26: The Lost Diaries
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...lost to lack of sleep, that is.

If you would like to read my Costume-Con 26 diaries, please check out 
<http://bovil.livejournal.com/tag/conventions>

andy

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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing and embroidery machines
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Hi, I have been following the discussion on embroidery
machines and decided to chime in and suggest that you
check out the Janome 110000 which is a TOL
sewing/embroidery machine.  If it seems like too many
bells and whistles (for me it is, I am impressed but
have no desire to purchase it); there is the 350E
which is an embroidery only machine that takes
software and has many of the capacities as a TOL but
costs less money and, as with all the Janome
embroidery machines, does not require a separate
embroidery unit.  The issue I have with the sewing /
embroidery combos is that when a design is being
stitched out, they really can't be stopped to use the
sewing function. 

Bernina, Viking, Pfaff, Babylock, and Brother all have
good quality embroidery machines as well.  It is just
good to see the different models, look at your budget
and the value you can realize with each machine and,
how easy--comfortable the machine seems to you.  Also
having dealer support and a place to go for classes
and/or quick interventions when something seems to be
going wrong.

As for software, I am clueless.  I have heard a Viking
ind. educator advise to first buy the software that
goes with your brand machine, learn that and then
branch out to the independent ones. 

Kathy
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me with.
How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did they
wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible through a
dress slit?  

Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)

much thanks,
Arlys, clueless in An Tir
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Hello,

I am writing to inquire if anyone can direct me to a close-up of the Darnley portrait of Queen Elizabeth.   I am intrigued by the trim on the front but can't see it well enough to see how it's made.

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.



_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 13:59:13 -0500
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is believed that
the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where the
pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt would
be hiked up for access. Though here
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat%27s%20Soccaccia.html
they seem to be on the outside.
Late 1400s there are some paintings that show that the pouch is worn under
the over garb and access was as with the pocket.

1. Take with grain o' salt as I have not thoroughly researched this.
2. Please note that this is not a SCA list and some here might not know what
SCA is. :)
3. Have you asked on the Italian Ren yahoo groups list?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me with.
How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did they
wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible through a
dress slit?

Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)

much thanks,
Arlys, clueless in An Tir


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Darnley portrait
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http://tinyurl.com/5uz2g9
Click on picture to get a wee bit bigger.

Are you talking about the orange Polish frogs or knot and loop closures?

-----Original Message-----
Hello,

I am writing to inquire if anyone can direct me to a close-up of the Darnley
portrait of Queen Elizabeth.   I am intrigued by the trim on the front but
can't see it well enough to see how it's made.

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.



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At 20:06 03/05/2008, you wrote:
>http://tinyurl.com/5uz2g9
>Click on picture to get a wee bit bigger.
>
>Are you talking about the orange Polish frogs or knot and loop closures?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Hello,
>
>I am writing to inquire if anyone can direct me to a close-up of the Darnley
>portrait of Queen Elizabeth.   I am intrigued by the trim on the front but
>can't see it well enough to see how it's made.


I seem to remember that Jean Hunnisett, who studied this portrait in 
great detail when making the costumes for "Elizabeth R", thought that 
the decoration was a piece of woven braid, looped at the front edge, 
(to take the button) sewn down and frayed to resemble tassels. It 
works very well if you do this, and is very similar to the painting.

Suzi

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Andy,
       What is this thing that you call Costume-Con? I have never heard of 
such a thing! ;P

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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Another list has posted an excerpt from a 1794 letter discussing London =

fashion and this question has come up: Does anyone know what the =

"pudding" in the following excerpt refers to? I've begun to research it =

but before I tread ground that may already be familiar to those more =

knowledgeable about the period, it seemed best to ask. I've found =

nothing obvious in the OED, have found references to pudding caps for =

children, and have some ideas, but nothing concrete for this:

"=85your Friend Mrs. Gosling has been obliged to put on the Cravat, but =

all Bows are left off, for the Ladies either a very full Muslin plain =

Stock with a larger Pudding, or the long cravats like your old one =

twisted round the neck & fastened behind: this moment Maria has made her =

appearance with the plain Stock but no pudding, she sais these are very =

comfortable no ends to treble [/sic/: trouble] her, we are really much =

entertained with her new appearance=85"


- Hope
------------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont

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Subject: [h-cost] Pfaff vs Husqvarna
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They are one and the same company.  That is why the program Creative and 4D
looks so much alike!!! They are! LOL

Pfaff currently has the largest hoop; however there is a new machine on the
horizon and Husqvarna is coming out with in June, so we have to see what
that is!!

My Designer is only 2 years old this April 24th, so perhaps if it is way
awesome, I shall trade in.  Who knows?


Cilean


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> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 10:40:51 -0700
> From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: Cley@juno.com
> Message-ID: <20080503.104053.3000.0.Cley@juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me with.
> How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did they
> wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible through a
> dress slit?
>
> Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)
>
> much thanks,
> Arlys, clueless in An Tir
>
>
My pet theory is that noblewomen didn't wear pouches at all, not the
way we seem to want to in the SCA. They didn't do their own shopping for
the most part, and they didn't go anywhere without people to carry stuff for 
them,
so why would they need them? They didn't have spare change/car keys/mobile
phones etc that they needed to keep close to their persons.

Similarly, if you were of a class where you might be going to the markets 
etc you'd
probably have a basket with you, so you could just put your purse in that. 
There
are very few instances where women are depicted wearing purses or pouches
(they're a bit more common on men), apart from the 13th century, where we're
usually told that this are almonieres (or some variant spelling), used for 
dispensing
alms.

This is not very handy, of course, if you do want somewhere to carry your 
car keys
around. In which case I'm also rather fond of the 'worn under the gown, 
accessible
through a pocket slit' approach. There is a certain amount of evidence for 
this,
although not really Italian Renn. evidence.

Claire/Angharad 

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Thanks! That is exactly what I needed! :-)

Arlys

On Sat, 3 May 2008 13:59:13 -0500 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
> http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
> To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is 
> believed that
> the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where 
> the
> pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt 
> would
> be hiked up for access. Though here
> http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat%27s%20Soccaccia.html
> they seem to be on the outside.
> Late 1400s there are some paintings that show that the pouch is worn 
> under
> the over garb and access was as with the pocket.
> 
> 1. Take with grain o' salt as I have not thoroughly researched this.
> 2. Please note that this is not a SCA list and some here might not 
> know what
> SCA is. :)
> 3. Have you asked on the Italian Ren yahoo groups list?
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me 
> with.
> How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did 
> they
> wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible 
> through a
> dress slit?
> 
> Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)
> 
> much thanks,
> Arlys, clueless in An Tir
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] wire frame
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Found this wire frame for a French gable while looking for something else.
http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image.php?id=59551&idx=10&fromsearch=tru
e

http://tinyurl.com/4p6n9d

De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wire frame
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At 19:17 04/05/2008, you wrote:

>Found this wire frame for a French gable while looking for something else.
>http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image.php?id=59551&idx=10&fromsearch=tru
>e
>
>http://tinyurl.com/4p6n9d
>
>De


This is the frame I measured and copied for the Gable headdress I 
made for Museum of London's new Medieval Gallery.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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Not a bad theory but it does have a wee bit o' problem with it.
Though I am sure that the probability of most noble women in the Italian
States had the merchant come to them (early rendition of the home shopping
network. :) ), probably from time to time they went out to shop. For the big
expenditures they would probably have had to have their sponse or head of
household send the money and make the final sale or if they were the head
(widow, courtesan, lady of the evening, etc..)they would make arrangements.
Even so, I believe that they would have to carry some money for emergencies,
on the spot small transactions therefore they would need a pouch of a sorts.
As for putting a pouch in a basket...well....that is asking for it to be
stolen. From paintings it would appear that people liked to keep their money
close and a basket is not close enough. :) They may not have carried cell
phones and the modern stuff normally carried in a purse but there were
probably small items carried. This statement is mostly based on the early
1500s "German" multi-pocket purse.
Most times when I have heard someone say that a woman is wearing an alms
pouch in the picture (even if it does not look like an alms pouch) it is
based on what they have been told "that women do not wear pouches" Perhaps
there are few paintings with women wearing pouches is that it is probably
under thier skirts. IMO, I have seen enough Italian paintings from the
Renaissance that gives me the impression that the pouch under at least the
out garment was a common practice, even for the noble woman.
Again, I have not done any strong research in this area so it is more
conjecture then hard fact.

De
aka in SCA: Delis Alms (Calontir)(Friese) or
(alt)Fiordelisia Dragano da Parma (N. Italia)
(alt)Arian verch Gwydion (Wales)
(alt) Sandrine D'Avalon (Burgundy)
(alt) Audaelfr Almsveig (Norse)
-----Original Message-----

My pet theory is that noblewomen didn't wear pouches at all, not the
way we seem to want to in the SCA. They didn't do their own shopping for
the most part, and they didn't go anywhere without people to carry stuff for
them,
so why would they need them? They didn't have spare change/car keys/mobile
phones etc that they needed to keep close to their persons.
Similarly, if you were of a class where you might be going to the markets
etc you'd probably have a basket with you, so you could just put your purse
in that.
There are very few instances where women are depicted wearing purses or
pouches (they're a bit more common on men), apart from the 13th century,
where we're
usually told that this are almonieres (or some variant spelling), used for
dispensing alms.

This is not very handy, of course, if you do want somewhere to carry your
car keys
around. In which case I'm also rather fond of the 'worn under the gown,
accessible
through a pocket slit' approach. There is a certain amount of evidence for
this,
although not really Italian Renn. evidence.

Claire/Angharad

_


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pfaff vs Husqvarna
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I joined the Viking Designer SE group on Yahoo and some people there, as 
well as on h-costume, gave me a lot of info.

The new TOL (top-of-the-line) Viking machine coming out in June is 
widely rumored to have the same large embroidery field as the latest TOL 
Pfaff, which if true would make the Viking the machine of choice for me. 
  People are also saying that new Viking models always have a variety of 
software and sometimes hardware bugs that need to be worked out. For the 
software bugs and some new features, you download software fixes 
yourself. For the hardware bugs, you have to take the machine back to 
your dealer.

San Francisco itself seems to have a shortage of Viking dealers. People 
have recommended a good dealer in Sunnyvale, and another one in Marin 
County. Those are places I can get to but not conveniently enough to 
want to do it a lot, plus there is the time issue of dealing with the 
upgrades/fixes. I can do it, but I have a computer to keep updated as it 
is.

Anyway, people are saying that unless you are burning to have the new 
model right away, it is wise to wait awhile, anywhere from 4 1/2 months 
to a year. The time recommended seems to depend on your level of 
optimism, the machine, and what you hear about its problems from early 
adopters. When buying computer software and hardware my philosophy has 
always been to wait for a fairly stable version. So I think I will wait 
maybe six months, depending on what I hear about any problems with the 
new model.

Many people say it is handy to have two machines, one set up for 
embroidery and one for sewing, and also to sew on one machine while the 
other embroiders. So I think I will keep my old Viking as long as it 
continues to work well. I have not found in the past that trade-ins 
really take that much off the price of the new machine. There is, BTW, a 
surprising number of people who not only love the TOL Vikings but own 
two identical ones at once, which they keep upgrading to the latest and 
greatest, and a TOL serger in addition. I suppose if you did a large 
amount of machine embroidery it might make sense to have two machines 
embroidering away.

My husband and I have been planning to buy a larger house for a couple 
of years at least, a project that keeps getting derailed by the fact 
that he's been working 60 hours a week for years. However, although I 
already have a sewing room all across the back of the house, it's not 
large enough to put another machine in, considering the stacks of books 
all over the floor. So one thing I will get is a larger sewing room. 
Both my parents died fairly recently and I have to decide if, among 
other things, I want to take my mother's antique treadle cabinet as part 
of my share of the estate. I already have an antique treadle cabinet 
with the fold-out panel that my parents bought me years ago. I took the 
machine out and had the cabinet fixed up as a solid tabletop and put my 
Viking on top of it. My father fixed up my mother's cabinet the same 
way, for her to put her machine on. I love these cabinets and the 
fold-out panels but, are the machines with the big embroidery fields too 
large to fit on the surface, especially if I want the fold-out to be 
available to support long skirts while I am sewing on them?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com





<snip>


> 
> Pfaff currently has the largest hoop; however there is a new machine on the
> horizon and Husqvarna is coming out with in June, so we have to see what
> that is!!
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Status: RO

At 11:33 AM 5/4/2008, you wrote:
>At 19:17 04/05/2008, you wrote:
>
> >Found this wire frame for a French gable while looking for something else.
> >http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image.php?id=59551&idx=10&fromsearch=tru
> >e
> >
> >http://tinyurl.com/4p6n9d
> >
> >De
>
>
>This is the frame I measured and copied for the Gable headdress I
>made for Museum of London's new Medieval Gallery.
>
>Suzi

Are you able to share the dimensions of the frame and the approximate 
gauge of the wire?  I  saw that the MOL page did not include any measurements.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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At 20:16 04/05/2008, you wrote:
>At 11:33 AM 5/4/2008, you wrote:
> >At 19:17 04/05/2008, you wrote:
> >
> > >Found this wire frame for a French gable while looking for something else.
> > >http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image.php?id=59551&idx=10&fro 
> msearch=tru
> > >e
> > >
> > >http://tinyurl.com/4p6n9d
> > >
> > >De
> >
> >
> >This is the frame I measured and copied for the Gable headdress I
> >made for Museum of London's new Medieval Gallery.
> >
> >Suzi
>
>Are you able to share the dimensions of the frame and the approximate
>gauge of the wire?  I  saw that the MOL page did not include any measurements.
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net


I will have to look up my notes - I did not measure the gauge of the 
wire - I used some wire I had in stock as no-one would ever see the 
underneath, and it had to be extremely solid as it was a handling piece.

Suzi

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Lavolta Press wrote:
> San Francisco itself seems to have a shortage of Viking dealers. People 
> have recommended a good dealer in Sunnyvale, and another one in Marin 
> County. Those are places I can get to but not conveniently enough to 
> want to do it a lot, plus there is the time issue of dealing with the 
> upgrades/fixes. I can do it, but I have a computer to keep updated as it 
> is.

If you're going to have to leave the city and are considering shops in 
the South Bay, I'm partial to Viking Sewing Center (Lincoln Avenue in 
Willow Glen/San Jose and East Estate in Cupertino 
<http://www.sewviking.com/>).

We just ran all of our machines through service there. Their technician 
is just superb, he even got my '54 Elna Supermatic back up to snuff 
(it's a first-year Supermatic and has some design flaws solved in later 
versions).

andy

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At 20:16 04/05/2008, you wrote:
>At 11:33 AM 5/4/2008, you wrote:
> >At 19:17 04/05/2008, you wrote:
> >
> > >Found this wire frame for a French gable while looking for something else.
> > >http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image.php?id=59551&idx=10&fro 
> msearch=tru
> > >e
> > >
> > >http://tinyurl.com/4p6n9d
> > >
> > >De
> >
> >
> >This is the frame I measured and copied for the Gable headdress I
> >made for Museum of London's new Medieval Gallery.
> >
> >Suzi
>
>Are you able to share the dimensions of the frame and the approximate
>gauge of the wire?  I  saw that the MOL page did not include any measurements.
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net

I cannot find my original notes, but have the file I wrote when 
making the headdress - would that be of use? I do remember the "legs" 
were not the same length, and neither were the two bits that went to 
the point. In other words it was very crooked, and there was no way 
of knowing if that was the original bend, or if someone had "mended" it.

Suzi

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I use the heaviest gauge of millinery wire for mine. I am talking about the sort of headdress you see in Holbein's Wife of an English Burgher. 
 
There is a photo somewhere in one of my books of a frame (I think it was for a collar support) wrapped with fine thread.  It makes sewing the fabric to it much easier!  
 
Sg> I cannot find my original notes, but have the file I wrote when > making the headdress - would that be of use? I do remember the "legs" > were not the same length, and neither were the two bits that went to > the point. In other words it was very crooked, and there was no way > of knowing if that was the original bend, or if someone had "mended" it.> > Suzi> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg

What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist  
decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart?  
  Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted?

Emma

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I find it hard to believe that they would have applied trim like  
that.  My best guess is that the skirt is too big for the child and  
the front openings were folded back on themselves, but why they would  
do that for a formal portrait is beyond me.  Who knows, there's  
probably some terribly important symbology in it.

It also looks like the child is wearing a linen smock with a band of  
blackwork embroidery, no forepart or petticoats, which I haven't seen  
before.

Margo


On May 4, 2008, at 6:36 PM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg

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Quoting 00217146@bigred.unl.edu:

> http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg
>
> What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist
> decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart?
>   Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted?
>

Somewhere, I seem to remember a discussion about this painting, and  
one of the suggestions/comments was that that wasn't *trim* but it was  
like chains/strings hanging from the waist.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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----- Original Message ----
From: "00217146@bigred.unl.edu" <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg

What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist  
decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart?  
  Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted?<<<<<





I think it's an optical illusion. What at first looked to me like an opening in the skirt, I now believe to be a blackworked handkercheif/small towel pinned to the waist. 

 
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.net


      Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
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On Sunday 04 May 2008, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg
>
> What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist
> decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart?
>   Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted?


I don't think there is any difference with the trim at all; I think that half 
of her skirt is partly obscured by a black blanket that covers most of the 
second half of her skirt.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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On May 4, 2008, at 7:10 PM, Bella wrote:
>
> I think it's an optical illusion. What at first looked to me like  
> an opening in the skirt, I now believe to be a blackworked  
> handkercheif/small towel pinned to the waist.

D'oh!  I see it now. :)

Margo
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In case anyone's interested, David Brown Book Company (Oxbow Books, in the UK) 
is selling the 2d edition of Gale Owen-Crocker's "Dress in Anglo-Saxon 
England" for USD $24.98;

http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/3280

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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>> 2. Image: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429.jpg .  These
>> medallions are borders on a three-tiered net dress.  My question:  What 
>> is
>> the name of the type of hand-crochet around the medallions?  It is a
>> cotton thread very similar what is used on doilies.  I am so embarrassed
>> that I can't remember this term. I have made this type of crochet so many
>> times.  It is made by using a double or triple crochet, then chain two or
>> three and then repeat.  There are three rows of this type of crochet
>> around each medallion.

Claire,
Thank you for your answer for what type of crochet surrounding the 
medallions on the dress.  Your answer is correct.  I checked several 
websites against your answer...filet.  I have seen the word spelled filet 
and fillet.  Are both spellings correct?  I have seen these used 
interchanged.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com 

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Many thanks to everyone for the suggestions about scanning oversized items. 
I am checking with the college Library to see if they have an extra large 
scanner bed.  If they don't I am checking with the school of arts.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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One more time...Rebecca suggested lattice crochet.  I found this example of 
a lattice bookmark:
http://www.yarncat.com/mybookmark.html .  This example does look like what 
is on the dress.  But other images that I found on 
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/search.php look kinda like the pattern 
but not as much as the fillet pattern.  Are both these patterns similar? 
Which would be the proper term to call the pattern on the dress?  I am so 
confused.

Does anyone know the website to change your membership status for the 
historic needlework email list?  I know there are h-costumers that are on 
h-needlework.  I changed to no mail when I was out of town, and lost my 
email with directions to change back my status to receiving mail.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance.
I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls.
I have looked everywhere, but dont seem to find any.
Where did they find the fabrics for Elizabeth Golden age?
Very happy if anybody could help.

Bjarne
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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This is not crotched. Its needle lace Penny, if you look at the right corner 
above the medallions, you can see some round loops on each center bar. 
Either this, or it could be a combination of crotched and needlelace.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catching up


>>> 2. Image: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429.jpg .  These
>>> medallions are borders on a three-tiered net dress.  My question:  What
>>> is
>>> the name of the type of hand-crochet around the medallions?  It is a
>>> cotton thread very similar what is used on doilies.  I am so embarrassed
>>> that I can't remember this term. I have made this type of crochet so 
>>> many
>>> times.  It is made by using a double or triple crochet, then chain two 
>>> or
>>> three and then repeat.  There are three rows of this type of crochet
>>> around each medallion.
>
> Claire,
> Thank you for your answer for what type of crochet surrounding the
> medallions on the dress.  Your answer is correct.  I checked several
> websites against your answer...filet.  I have seen the word spelled filet
> and fillet.  Are both spellings correct?  I have seen these used
> interchanged.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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At 09:40 05/05/2008, you wrote:
>I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could 
>also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance.
>I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted 
>here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls.
>I have looked everywhere, but dont seem to find any.
>Where did they find the fabrics for Elizabeth Golden age?
>Very happy if anybody could help.
>
>Bjarne


Try here - even if you don't like anything, it's a beautiful site, 
and the lady is so helpful.

http://www.hyenaproductions.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=6

Suzi

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I just sent another image to the web with a close-up of one medallion.  Feel 
free to download it and zoom in to see the stitches. 
http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429A.jpg  If using IE, place your 
cursor on the lower right corner, an arrow will appear, and click on it for 
the enlargement to see the stitches.  I am open for discussion.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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Hi Suzi,
I know Hyena, and i have had things from them before, but i dont find what i 
am looking for here.
Thanks anyway!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk brokade


> At 09:40 05/05/2008, you wrote:
>>I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could
>>also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance.
>>I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted
>>here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls.
>>I have looked everywhere, but dont seem to find any.
>>Where did they find the fabrics for Elizabeth Golden age?
>>Very happy if anybody could help.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> Try here - even if you don't like anything, it's a beautiful site,
> and the lady is so helpful.
>
> http://www.hyenaproductions.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=6
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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We've just begun to sell Chinese silk fabrics, also brocades, my sister buys them in China and I sell them in Europe. We currently don't have any red-black brocade, but we could possibly have a look next time we go shopping, it depends on how quickly you need the fabric.

Not very easy to get it this way, I know, but if you didn't find anything...

Zuzana
www.sartor.cz
Note: this shop is quite new, so there's almost nothing in it and almost no proper historical dresses - I'm working on it and hope to add some more interesting items during the summer.

       
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi Zuzana,
Thankyou for the big favour, but i think it would be two much to ask.
I only need one skirt height as i want to fake the underskirt and only have 
the front part in the real brokade. Rest of the dress is black. So it would 
be two much to ask you for such a little quantity.
Also the underskirt is decorated with gold braid in the front, wich i think 
is a shame, but it was the fashion i guess. Therefore the pattern of the 
fabric dont has to be so authentic as possible.
The whole buisiness in trying to recreate such a dress, has almost made me 
give up the whole buisiness.
The lace i baught from England wich is a reproduktion of a reticella lace is 
ideal, but it is two big and clumsy, not at all as fine as the portrait. And 
besides this the research and looking for the right materials, is really 
time consuming, the museum cant pay me for all the research, i think i might 
give it up after all.

Bjarne
---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk brokade


> We've just begun to sell Chinese silk fabrics, also brocades, my sister 
> buys them in China and I sell them in Europe. We currently don't have any 
> red-black brocade, but we could possibly have a look next time we go 
> shopping, it depends on how quickly you need the fabric.
>
> Not very easy to get it this way, I know, but if you didn't find 
> anything...
>
> Zuzana
> www.sartor.cz
> Note: this shop is quite new, so there's almost nothing in it and almost 
> no proper historical dresses - I'm working on it and hope to add some more 
> interesting items during the summer.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it 
> now.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Yes, that can happen...the research and everything around is so time consuming that it's not worth the money you get for it...it often happens to me...and I do it just because it's a kind of a hobby... 

Well, we won't go and search, but if we stumbled on something we might let you know:-)

Zuzana

Leif og Bjarne Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: Hi Zuzana,
Thankyou for the big favour, but i think it would be two much to ask.
I only need one skirt height as i want to fake the underskirt and only have 
the front part in the real brokade. Rest of the dress is black. So it would 
be two much to ask you for such a little quantity.
Also the underskirt is decorated with gold braid in the front, wich i think 
is a shame, but it was the fashion i guess. Therefore the pattern of the 
fabric dont has to be so authentic as possible.
The whole buisiness in trying to recreate such a dress, has almost made me 
give up the whole buisiness.
The lace i baught from England wich is a reproduktion of a reticella lace is 
ideal, but it is two big and clumsy, not at all as fine as the portrait. And 
besides this the research and looking for the right materials, is really 
time consuming, the museum cant pay me for all the research, i think i might 
give it up after all.

Bjarne
---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk brokade


> We've just begun to sell Chinese silk fabrics, also brocades, my sister 
> buys them in China and I sell them in Europe. We currently don't have any 
> red-black brocade, but we could possibly have a look next time we go 
> shopping, it depends on how quickly you need the fabric.
>
> Not very easy to get it this way, I know, but if you didn't find 
> anything...
>
> Zuzana
> www.sartor.cz
> Note: this shop is quite new, so there's almost nothing in it and almost 
> no proper historical dresses - I'm working on it and hope to add some more 
> interesting items during the summer.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it 
> now.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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---------------------------------
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I too think this is an illusion; an artist's attempt at=C2=A0 painting a =
realistic pose that shows what happens to the clothing when a child is =
being held. Most other paintings from earlier times are more concerned =
with content and meaning and not with pictoral renderings that try to =
duplicate the image of the sitters.
Kathleen=

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt
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On May 4, 2008, at 10:10 PM, Bella wrote:
>
> I think it's an optical illusion. What at first looked to me like  
> an opening in the skirt, I now believe to be a blackworked  
> handkercheif/small towel pinned to the waist.

Yes, it's a muckinder.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Ottoman, grosgrain, or corded silk.
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Anybody have any idea where I might be able to get hold of a decent weight  
silk (or silk and cotton) ottoman, grosgrain, or otherwise corded (not striped  
silk in a dark red colour?
 
Have tried the usuals (henry bertrand, james hare, etc, etc) and come up  
blank so far.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Needs to be UK or mail order.



   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt
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At 03:17 05/05/2008, you wrote:
>On Sunday 04 May 2008, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> > http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg
> >
> > What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist
> > decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart?
> >   Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted?
>
>
>I don't think there is any difference with the trim at all; I think that half
>of her skirt is partly obscured by a black blanket that covers most of the
>second half of her skirt.


I see the muckinder, but surely the trim is still not right if the 
top and bottom are meant to match? On the right side facing us, there 
are two rows of trim missing, if it's meant to match, in my opinion? 
I love the whole outfit though - sooo grownup!

Suzi

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>> I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could
>> also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance.
>> I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted
>> here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls.
>>
THANK YOU!  I've been looking for a red miniature Renaissance brocade  
for almost ten years!  Now I can finish the Ditchley Doll!

Margo

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
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Hi Margaret,

I am sorry I did not get back to you sooner but everything was in chaos when
I go back from London.  We lost one cat to cancer and almost lost another to
hyperthyroidism.  All is much improved now.  Anyway, I looked in several
stores and was unable to find anyplace in London or Colchester that sold
Pearsall's.  We even went online and the only place that had any was in
Wales.  It would need to be mail ordered.  I even went to a place here in
Va. Beach that as supposed to carry it and they did not.  The only other
place I could find was also online but nobody carries the spools.  I suspect
that you got some vintage silk that is no longer made.  Sorry I was no
successful.

Anne  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of margaret
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers

Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk 
Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone now

and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
Margaret 

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Sorry, this was supposed to be private.
Anne


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Subject: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating
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I'm planning a class on Cartridge Pleating for next week.  My time  frame is 
16C and I'm trying to keep it fairly basic.   Any  advice?  
 
Thanks,
Catherine  
 
 
 



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
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I'm not 100% sure this company mails to Europe, but it seems worth a try:
http://www.designerfabrics.ca/shop/scripts/

-E House
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ottoman, grosgrain, or corded silk.
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Last I heard, Fashion Fabrics Club had begun mailing worldwide, and they 
often have silk ottoman:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com

-E House 

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Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 10:42:52 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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At 02:07 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote:
>I just sent another image to the web with a close-up of one medallion.  Feel
>free to download it and zoom in to see the stitches.
>http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429A.jpg  If using IE, place your
>cursor on the lower right corner, an arrow will appear, and click on it for
>the enlargement to see the stitches.  I am open for discussion.
>
>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumelibrary.com
>www.costumeclassroom.com
>www.costumeslideshows.com

It looks like embroidery to me, with needle lace around the medallion.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] crotched
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I know we have disgussed the history of crotched here manny times. I was am=
azed when i got a book :
Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990ies from The Metropolidan Museum o=
f Arts.
There is a beautifull Robe a la francaise dated 1740ies, floral handpainted=
 cream silk moir=E9 faille.
It has crotcheted netting, cream silk fly-fringe and polycrome flowers of s=
ilk floss.
Crotcheted netting is made in a ecry colloured thread.
I didnt know crotching was as old as that!

Bjarne  =

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating
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One tip is to line the top of the fabric to be pleated with evenly checked
gingham. The regular spacing of the checks makes it easy to make even pleats
and the gingham finishes the top edge. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of CBellfleur@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:45 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating

I'm planning a class on Cartridge Pleating for next week.  My time  frame is

16C and I'm trying to keep it fairly basic.   Any  advice?  
 
Thanks,
Catherine  
 
 
 



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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Ottoman silk
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=ottoman%20silk

http://tinyurl.com/5aha24

Dark Red Ottoman silk
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=FF814

http://tinyurl.com/5gurv3

-----Original Message-----
Last I heard, Fashion Fabrics Club had begun mailing worldwide, and they 
often have silk ottoman:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com

-E House 



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Subject: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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I really like that pocket and would be interested in embroidering a replica.  I couldn't back out of the link to find the page with the pocket description, date, materials, etc.  Could someone please direct me to that part of the site?
Julie

----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
> http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
> To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is believed that
> the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where the
> pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt would
> be hiked up for access. 
 De
> 
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I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said
that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s.
Presently I can not find the site.

De

-----Original Message-----
I really like that pocket and would be interested in embroidering a replica.
I couldn't back out of the link to find the page with the pocket
description, date, materials, etc.  Could someone please direct me to that
part of the site?
Julie

----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
>
> If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
> http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
> To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is believed
that
> the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where the
> pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt would
> be hiked up for access.
 De
>
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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At 00:02 06/05/2008, you wrote:
>I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said
>that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s.
>Presently I can not find the site.

The embroidery seems very 18th century to me - are you sure it was 
1620? I have looked at a large number of pockets, and pictures of, 
for a small project I am working on, and have never seen one dated 
that early. Some of the MoL items are not always dated accurately, or 
with a very wide range of dates, as I have found while working there, 
as a volunteer.

Suzi

>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>I really like that pocket and would be interested in embroidering a replica.
>I couldn't back out of the link to find the page with the pocket
>description, date, materials, etc.  Could someone please direct me to that
>part of the site?
>Julie
>
>----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> >
> > If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
> > http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
> > To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is believed
>that
> > the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where the
> > pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt would
> > be hiked up for access.
>  De
> >
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
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Wikipedia gives this information about the site:
> VADS (Visual Arts Data Service) is a UK organisation that provides  
> digital images and other visual arts resources free and copyright  
> cleared for use in UK higher education and further education. It  
> has provided services to the academic community for 11 years, and  
> has built up a portfolio of visual art collections comprising over  
> 100,000 images. VADS is based at the University College for the  
> Creative Arts at Farnham.
>
Perhaps you could try writing the organization about the source?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On May 5, 2008, at 6:17 PM, Julie wrote:

> I really like that pocket and would be interested in embroidering a  
> replica.  I couldn't back out of the link to find the page with the  
> pocket description, date, materials, etc.  Could someone please  
> direct me to that part of the site?
> Julie
>
> ----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
>>
>> If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
>> http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
>> To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is  
>> believed that
>> the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases  
>> where the
>> pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over  
>> skirt would
>> be hiked up for access.
>  De
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crotched
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I have to say, this post wasn't what I was expecting from the subject line.=
  Honestly not sure what I *was* expecting.  =

Thanks for the giggle, Bjarne!
 =

Laurie> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Mon, =
5 May 2008 20:29:20 +0200> Subject: [h-cost] crotched> > I know we have dis=
gussed the history of crotched here manny times. I was amazed when i got a =
book :> Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990ies from The Metropolidan =
Museum of Arts.> There is a beautifull Robe a la francaise dated 1740ies, f=
loral handpainted cream silk moir=E9 faille.> It has crotcheted netting, cr=
eam silk fly-fringe and polycrome flowers of silk floss.> Crotcheted nettin=
g is made in a ecry colloured thread.> I didnt know crotching was as old as=
 that!> > Bjarne > _______________________________________________> h-costu=
me mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/li=
stinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
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> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 10:42:52 -0700
> From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catching up
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <200805051746.m45HkP2J082314@net.indra.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> At 02:07 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote:
>>I just sent another image to the web with a close-up of one medallion. 
>>Feel
>>free to download it and zoom in to see the stitches.
>>http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429A.jpg  If using IE, place your
>>cursor on the lower right corner, an arrow will appear, and click on it 
>>for
>>the enlargement to see the stitches.  I am open for discussion.
>>
>>Penny Ladnier,
>>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>>www.costumegallery.com
>>www.costumelibrary.com
>>www.costumeclassroom.com
>>www.costumeslideshows.com
>
> It looks like embroidery to me, with needle lace around the medallion.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
Hi Penny - I have only ever seen it spelled filet, but the pattern you sent 
for
'lattice' looks like what I would call filet. However, Joan may be right 
about the
lace medallions - when I first looked at them I wasn't sure they were filet, 
because
of the irregular shapes in the upper halves. It's only really the lower 
parts of the
meshwork that look like filet.

Claire 

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 2:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crotched



I have to say, this post wasn't what I was expecting from the subject line. 
Honestly not sure what I *was* expecting.
Thanks for the giggle, Bjarne!

I apologises for the mistake of the spelling. You must bear over with me, i 
am sorry i am not a native english speaker.

Bjarne 


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I apologises for the mistake of the spelling. You must bear over with me, i
> am sorry i am not a native english speaker.

You worry too much :-) We know you're not a native English speaker.
Those things happen to even to people whose first language is English.

It just made us smile :-)

Personnally, I though you had a pants fitting issue...
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's fun & charming.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 11:48 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet

> I apologises for the mistake of the spelling. You must bear over with
me, i
> am sorry i am not a native english speaker.

You worry too much :-) We know you're not a native English speaker.
Those things happen to even to people whose first language is English.

It just made us smile :-)

Personnally, I though you had a pants fitting issue...
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> Personally, I though you had a pants fitting issue...

     Oh those language funnies!  :-)

     Back to crochet =97 yes, the simple chains and such were around in the
18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.

     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some people
want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
patterns occurred in the 19th century.

     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done to
look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
to look like needle lace, etc.

     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on the
level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
justify using them.

     -Carol

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Bjarne, I *never* make fun of anyone who speaks more than one language! but 
I do get a chuckle out of the occasional malaprop.  I only speak the one I 
was born to and I admire anyone who can communicate in more than one 
language.

My mother speaks 4 fluently and can get along in two others. Her native 
language is French and I can limp along a little, but my cousins were 
terribly amused to find that I had HORSE on my head, not hair.  or was it 
hat?

Anyway, you do just fine in English -- far better than most of the people on 
this list could do in Danish, I'd guess.  Don't let it bother you if we 
sometimes get a smile from something you wrote -- A smile a day is healthy!

Denise
Iowa 

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Carol wrote:
>     Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in the
>18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.
>     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some people
>want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
>patterns occurred in the 19th century.
>     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done to
>look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
>to look like needle lace, etc.
>     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on the
>level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
>for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
>justify using them.

I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the crochet on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit later.... forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly _could_ be original if it's just chains and fastenings.

I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we have of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say what it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghans....<g>).

I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And then tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin lace; crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace, chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace.... <grin> Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think there's some truth in it.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
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When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book and 
post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C


> Carol wrote:
>>     Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in the
>>18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.
>>     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some people
>>want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
>>patterns occurred in the 19th century.
>>     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done to
>>look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
>>to look like needle lace, etc.
>>     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on the
>>level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
>>for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
>>justify using them.
>
> I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the crochet 
> on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit 
> later.... forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly _could_ 
> be original if it's just chains and fastenings.
>
> I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be 
> important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we have 
> of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say what 
> it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghans....<g>).
>
> I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster and 
> easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And then 
> tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin lace; 
> crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin 
> and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace, 
> chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace.... <grin> 
> Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think 
> there's some truth in it.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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If it weren't completely OT, I'd love to post some of the things my American college students write in English class. And, as you say, for most of them English is the only language they've got.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
>Sent: May 6, 2008 1:01 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Languages
>
>Bjarne, I *never* make fun of anyone who speaks more than one language! but 
>I do get a chuckle out of the occasional malaprop.  I only speak the one I 
>was born to and I admire anyone who can communicate in more than one 
>language.
>
>My mother speaks 4 fluently and can get along in two others. Her native 
>language is French and I can limp along a little, but my cousins were 
>terribly amused to find that I had HORSE on my head, not hair.  or was it 
>hat?
>
>Anyway, you do just fine in English -- far better than most of the people on 
>this list could do in Danish, I'd guess.  Don't let it bother you if we 
>sometimes get a smile from something you wrote -- A smile a day is healthy!
>
>Denise
>Iowa 
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
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I believe the dress in question is pictured on the MET museum site (I
just found my copy of the book to look it up).

It is featured on the first page on their highlights from the collection pa=
ge.

Dress (Robe =E0 la Fran=E7aise), 1740s
British; Country of Origin England
Harris B. Dick Fund, 1995 (1995.235a, b)

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/index.aspx?dep=3D=
8&vw=3D0

Here is a link to the page for the dress:

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_insti=
tute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=3Dthe_costume_institut=
e&pID=3D1&kWd=3D&OID=3D80001010&vW=3D0&Pg=3D1&St=3D5&StOd=3D1&vT=3D2

You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of
as trim from that period.  very interesting.  I wish the zoom was a
bit more closeup!  There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe.

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:17 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book a=
nd
>  post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me!
>
>  Bjarne
>
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
>  To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
>
>
>  > Carol wrote:
>  >>     Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in=
 the
>  >>18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.
>  >>     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some people
>  >>want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
>  >>patterns occurred in the 19th century.
>  >>     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done=
 to
>  >>look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
>  >>to look like needle lace, etc.
>  >>     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on t=
he
>  >>level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
>  >>for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
>  >>justify using them.
>  >
>  > I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the cro=
chet
>  > on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit
>  > later.... forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly _coul=
d_
>  > be original if it's just chains and fastenings.
>  >
>  > I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be
>  > important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we h=
ave
>  > of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say wh=
at
>  > it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghans....<g>).
>  >
>  > I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster a=
nd
>  > easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And =
then
>  > tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin la=
ce;
>  > crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobb=
in
>  > and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace,
>  > chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace.... <g=
rin>
>  > Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think
>  > there's some truth in it.
>  >
>  > ____________________________________________________________
>  > 0  Chris Laning
>  > |  <claning@igc.org>
>  > +  Davis, California
>  > http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
>  > ____________________________________________________________
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > h-costume mailing list
>  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  >
>
>
>  _______________________________________________
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>



-- =

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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I remember reading that it was early 1600s but I am not 100% sure of the
year 20. It was list in either Elizabethan or Jacobean.

De

-----Original Message-----

At 00:02 06/05/2008, you wrote:
>I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said
>that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s.
>Presently I can not find the site.

The embroidery seems very 18th century to me - are you sure it was
1620? I have looked at a large number of pockets, and pictures of,
for a small project I am working on, and have never seen one dated
that early. Some of the MoL items are not always dated accurately, or
with a very wide range of dates, as I have found while working there,
as a volunteer.

Suzi

>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>I really like that pocket and would be interested in embroidering a
replica.
>I couldn't back out of the link to find the page with the pocket
>description, date, materials, etc.  Could someone please direct me to that
>part of the site?
>Julie
>
>----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> >
> > If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
> > http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
> > To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is believed
>that
> > the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where the
> > pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt
would
> > be hiked up for access.
>  De
> >
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>


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The exhibit is from the V&A, last year. -
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/pockets/index.html

There is a link on the page to directions for making pockets.  I may try is
myself, since it can be hidden under a skirt.

Regina in L.A.
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Regina Voorhes wrote:
> The exhibit is from the V&A, last year. -
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/pockets/index.html
>
> There is a link on the page to directions for making pockets.  I may try is
> myself, since it can be hidden under a skirt.
>
> Regina in L.A.
>   
If you choose not to make your own, I make and sell pockets using 
authentic historical designs. Contact me if you are interested.

Connie
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I took a class on organ pipe pleating at a "War" once - best thing the teacher did was to make us actually do some of it in class. Maybe you could provide everyone with a piece of fabric, perhaps already lined as another person suggested and get the students to mark, gather and attach it to something?
 
Sg



> From: CBellfleur@aol.com> Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 11:44:55 -0400> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating> > I'm planning a class on Cartridge Pleating for next week. My time frame is > 16C and I'm trying to keep it fairly basic. Any advice? > > Thanks,> Catherine > > > > > > > **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family > favorites at AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Wow, that  looks exactly like a mesh crochet stitch. I saw a lot of it when
I used it for the sleeves of the Irish lace over-tunic of my wedding dress.
I would never have thought of it for something that early. Are we agreeing
that since it's basically a chain stitch attached here and there, it's more
than possible that this is really what we're looking at this early in the
history of crochet?

Impressed,
LynnD

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> I believe the dress in question is pictured on the MET museum site (I
> just found my copy of the book to look it up).
>
> It is featured on the first page on their highlights from the collection
> page.
>
> Dress (Robe =E0 la Fran=E7aise), 1740s
> British; Country of Origin England
> Harris B. Dick Fund, 1995 (1995.235a, b)
>
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/index.aspx?dep=
=3D8&vw=3D0
>
> Here is a link to the page for the dress:
>
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_ins=
titute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=3Dthe_costume_instit=
ute&pID=3D1&kWd=3D&OID=3D80001010&vW=3D0&Pg=3D1&St=3D5&StOd=3D1&vT=3D2
>
> You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of
> as trim from that period.  very interesting.  I wish the zoom was a
> bit more closeup!  There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe.
>
> On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:17 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> > When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book
> and
> >  post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me!
> >
> >  Bjarne
> >
> >
> >  ----- Original Message -----
> >  From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
> >  To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >  Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
> >
> >
> >  > Carol wrote:
> >  >>     Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around
> in the
> >  >>18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.
> >  >>     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some
> people
> >  >>want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
> >  >>patterns occurred in the 19th century.
> >  >>     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many
> done to
> >  >>look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
> >  >>to look like needle lace, etc.
> >  >>     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on
> the
> >  >>level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
> >  >>for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
> >  >>justify using them.
> >  >
> >  > I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the
> crochet
> >  > on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit
> >  > later.... forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly
> _could_
> >  > be original if it's just chains and fastenings.
> >  >
> >  > I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may
> be
> >  > important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we
> have
> >  > of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say
> what
> >  > it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag
> afghans....<g>).
> >  >
> >  > I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster
> and
> >  > easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And
> then
> >  > tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin
> lace;
> >  > crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for
> bobbin
> >  > and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace,
> >  > chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace....
> <grin>
> >  > Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think
> >  > there's some truth in it.
> >  >
> >  > ____________________________________________________________
> >  > 0  Chris Laning
> >  > |  <claning@igc.org>
> >  > +  Davis, California
> >  > http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> >  > ____________________________________________________________
> >  > _______________________________________________
> >  > h-costume mailing list
> >  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >  >
> >
> >
> >  _______________________________________________
> >  h-costume mailing list
> >  h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com<http://www.vintagevictori=
an.com/>
>  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>  _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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My copy of the title journal arrived in my hands today, on the east coast of the US.  It was ordered directly from Boydell & Brewster.

Ann in CT
only two papers read so far
more treats to come :)


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If it is mesh crochet, then the base chain has 5-6 chains between slip stit=
ches, and the loops are 9 sts long; second and third rows are slip stitched=
 to the fifth stitch in the previous row's loop.

It is possible that chain stitch was stitched with a needle to make 5 stitc=
h at the base chain and 9 stitch loops, rather than slip stitching.
Or we could be witnessing the early use of actual crochet as a separate cra=
ft, not just tambour embroidery.

Ann in CT

--- Lynn Downward wrote:

> Wow, that  looks exactly like a mesh crochet stitch. =

> I would never have thought of it for something that early.
> Are we agreeing
> that since it's basically a chain stitch attached here
> and there, it's more
> than possible that this is really what we're looking at
> this early in the history of crochet?
> =

> LynnD
> =

> Katy Bishop wrote:
> =

> > I believe the dress in question is pictured on the MET museum site (I
> > just found my copy of the book to look it up).
> >
> > It is featured on the first page on their highlights from the
> > collection page.
> >
> > Dress (Robe =E0 la Fran=E7aise), 1740s
> > British; Country of Origin England
> > Harris B. Dick Fund, 1995 (1995.235a, b)
> >
<http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/index.aspx?dep=
=3D8&vw=3D0>
> >
> > Here is a link to the page for the dress:
> >
<http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_inst=
itute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=3Dthe_costume_institu=
te&pID=3D1&kWd=3D&OID=3D80001010&vW=3D0&Pg=3D1&St=3D5&StOd=3D1&vT=3D2>
> >
> > You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of
> > as trim from that period.  very interesting.  I wish the zoom was a
> > bit more closeup!  There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe.



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Thank you so much for trying. I went shopping while in CA for cost-con-26 
and found some lovely fabric so the other project is on hold for a while 
anyway.
Margaret
> Hi Margaret,
>
> I am sorry I did not get back to you sooner but everything was in chaos 
> when
> I go back from London.  We lost one cat to cancer and almost lost another 
> to
> hyperthyroidism.  All is much improved now.  Anyway, I looked in several
> stores and was unable to find anyplace in London or Colchester that sold
> Pearsall's.  We even went online and the only place that had any was in
> Wales.  It would need to be mail ordered.  I even went to a place here in
> Va. Beach that as supposed to carry it and they did not.  The only other
> place I could find was also online but nobody carries the spools.  I 
> suspect
> that you got some vintage silk that is no longer made.  Sorry I was no
> successful.
>
> Anne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of margaret
> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:49 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for embroiderers
>
> Does anyone know of a distributor here in the US for Pearsalls Silk
> Embroidery Thread? I inherited some several years ago but its about gone 
> now
>
> and I would love to get some more. It is made in England.
> Margaret
>
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I wear a pocket in that style (with my own design of embroidery) with my 1640s outfit, because I like them and it doesn't show, but I, too, understood that they were really 18th century. I thought I had read that 17th century ones were plain.

>

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 15:40:46 -0500
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I remember reading that it was early 1600s but I am not 100% sure of the
year 20. It was list in either Elizabethan or Jacobean.

De

-----Original Message-----

At 00:02 06/05/2008, you wrote:
>I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said
>that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s.
>Presently I can not find the site.

The embroidery seems very 18th century to me - are you sure it was
1620? I have looked at a large number of pockets, and pictures of,
for a small project I am working on, and have never seen one dated
that early. Some of the MoL items are not always dated accurately, or
with a very wide range of dates, as I have found while working there,
as a volunteer.

Suzi

>De
>
*****************************************

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
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It could be very primitive crochet, or something else. There are certainly 
none
of the usual crochet stitches (doubles, trebles etc), only chains. To my eye 
it looks
like it has been worked horizontally (ie parallel to the skirt edges. Those 
two
vertical lines are the top and bottom of the narrow strips and extra loops 
have
been worked on the outside. I can't quite see what is going on with the 
edges
though - I think there's chenille thread covering them, and there is some 
kind of
wierd ruffly bit near the bottom of the petticoat which does not look like 
crochet
at all.

Claire

> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 18:20:59 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <701514.80117.qm@web51311.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> If it is mesh crochet, then the base chain has 5-6 chains between slip 
> stitches, and the loops are 9 sts long; second and third rows are slip 
> stitched to the fifth stitch in the previous row's loop.
>
> It is possible that chain stitch was stitched with a needle to make 5 
> stitch at the base chain and 9 stitch loops, rather than slip stitching.
> Or we could be witnessing the early use of actual crochet as a separate 
> craft, not just tambour embroidery.
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Lynn Downward wrote:
>
>> Wow, that  looks exactly like a mesh crochet stitch.
>> I would never have thought of it for something that early.
>> Are we agreeing
>> that since it's basically a chain stitch attached here
>> and there, it's more
>> than possible that this is really what we're looking at
>> this early in the history of crochet?
>>
>> LynnD
>>
>> Katy Bishop wrote:
>>

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"Textiles conservator Margaret Ordo=F1ez, a professor at the University of =

Rhode Island, spent a month at the site in 2004 examining 100 textile =

samples found in a tomb, and since then she has been analyzing tiny =

fragments of 49 samples she brought back to her lab to see what she =

could learn from them."


http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/04/080430173528.htm



Dawn

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Thanks Katy, you made it easy for me!
Yes this is the dress i was speaking of.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- =

From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C


I believe the dress in question is pictured on the MET museum site (I
just found my copy of the book to look it up).

It is featured on the first page on their highlights from the collection =

page.

Dress (Robe =E0 la Fran=E7aise), 1740s
British; Country of Origin England
Harris B. Dick Fund, 1995 (1995.235a, b)

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/index.aspx?dep=3D=
8&vw=3D0

Here is a link to the page for the dress:

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_insti=
tute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=3Dthe_costume_institut=
e&pID=3D1&kWd=3D&OID=3D80001010&vW=3D0&Pg=3D1&St=3D5&StOd=3D1&vT=3D2

You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of
as trim from that period.  very interesting.  I wish the zoom was a
bit more closeup!  There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe.

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:17 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book =

> and
>  post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me!
>
>  Bjarne
>
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
>  To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
>
>
>  > Carol wrote:
>  >>     Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in =

> the
>  >>18th century.  Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope.
>  >>     The reason for the "no crochet" pronouncement is that some people
>  >>want to use crocheted lace for 18th century.  The explosion of lace
>  >>patterns occurred in the 19th century.
>  >>     There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done =

> to
>  >>look like another type at various times throughout history.  Tatting
>  >>to look like needle lace, etc.
>  >>     Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact.  Depending on =

> the
>  >>level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work
>  >>for engageantes.  I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to
>  >>justify using them.
>  >
>  > I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the =

> crochet
>  > on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit
>  > later.... forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly =

> _could_
>  > be original if it's just chains and fastenings.
>  >
>  > I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be
>  > important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we =

> have
>  > of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say =

> what
>  > it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghans....<g>).
>  >
>  > I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster =

> and
>  > easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And =

> then
>  > tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin =

> lace;
>  > crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for =

> bobbin
>  > and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace,
>  > chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace.... =

> <grin>
>  > Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think
>  > there's some truth in it.
>  >
>  > ____________________________________________________________
>  > 0  Chris Laning
>  > |  <claning@igc.org>
>  > +  Davis, California
>  > http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
>  > ____________________________________________________________
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > h-costume mailing list
>  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  >
>
>
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- =

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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I hope you won't kill me for this...but when I was studying in America (at the age of 12), most of my schoolmates made such terrible spelling mistakes.... it's quite funny, but I was one of the few students who managed to get an A in spelling:-D

Zuzana

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote: If it weren't completely OT, I'd love to post some of the things my American college students write in English class. And, as you say, for most of them English is the only language they've got.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Land of Oz 
>Sent: May 6, 2008 1:01 PM
>To: Historical Costume 
>Subject: [h-cost] Languages
>
>Bjarne, I *never* make fun of anyone who speaks more than one language! but 
>I do get a chuckle out of the occasional malaprop.  I only speak the one I 
>was born to and I admire anyone who can communicate in more than one 
>language.
>
>My mother speaks 4 fluently and can get along in two others. Her native 
>language is French and I can limp along a little, but my cousins were 
>terribly amused to find that I had HORSE on my head, not hair.  or was it 
>hat?
>
>Anyway, you do just fine in English -- far better than most of the people on 
>this list could do in Danish, I'd guess.  Don't let it bother you if we 
>sometimes get a smile from something you wrote -- A smile a day is healthy!
>
>Denise
>Iowa 
>
>_______________________________________________
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Oh, goody!  I will be at the Met in about 2 weeks.  It looks like I will
lots of costumes to photograph.
Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C

Thanks Katy, you made it easy for me!
Yes this is the dress i was speaking of.

Bjarne

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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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I hire college students to intern in the museum for which I work, and as
part of the application process I require that they submit a
college-level paper so that I can see how well they write (writing is
part of the job). And the one person who wrote the most beautifully in
the seven years I've been doing this was a native Danish speaker. The
American college students couldn't write their way out of a paper bag.
Quite frightening, actually.... (Even more frightening is that most of
them can't identify the parts of a ruler or do basic fractions-- also
things the job requires since we hang art to specific measurements.
Meanwhile, my Danish student did all her calculations in metric and then
converted them--correctly--to Imperial.)


Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road 
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:59 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Languages - OT
> 
> I hope you won't kill me for this...but when I was studying in America
(at
> the age of 12), most of my schoolmates made such terrible spelling
> mistakes.... it's quite funny, but I was one of the few students who
> managed to get an A in spelling:-D
> 
> Zuzana
> 
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote: If it weren't completely OT, I'd love
to
> post some of the things my American college students write in English
> class. And, as you say, for most of them English is the only language
> they've got.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Land of Oz
> >Sent: May 6, 2008 1:01 PM
> >To: Historical Costume
> >Subject: [h-cost] Languages
> >
> >Bjarne, I *never* make fun of anyone who speaks more than one
language!
> but
> >I do get a chuckle out of the occasional malaprop.  I only speak the
one
> I
> >was born to and I admire anyone who can communicate in more than one
> >language.
> >
> >My mother speaks 4 fluently and can get along in two others. Her
native
> >language is French and I can limp along a little, but my cousins were
> >terribly amused to find that I had HORSE on my head, not hair.  or
was it
> >hat?
> >
> >Anyway, you do just fine in English -- far better than most of the
people
> on
> >this list could do in Danish, I'd guess.  Don't let it bother you if
we
> >sometimes get a smile from something you wrote -- A smile a day is
> healthy!
> >
> >Denise
> >Iowa
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
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Try it
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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
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On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 8:31 PM, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wow, that  looks exactly like a mesh crochet stitch. I saw a lot of it when
> I used it for the sleeves of the Irish lace over-tunic of my wedding dress.
> I would never have thought of it for something that early. Are we agreeing
> that since it's basically a chain stitch attached here and there, it's more
> than possible that this is really what we're looking at this early in the
> history of crochet?

> >
> >> >
> > http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_institute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=the_costume_institute&pID=1&kWd=&OID=80001010&vW=0&Pg=1&St=5&StOd=1&vT=2
> >
> > You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of
> > as trim from that period.  very interesting.  I wish the zoom was a
> > bit more closeup!  There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe.


> > > When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book
> > and
> > >  post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me!
> > >
> > >  Bjarne
> > >
I think you are right. There has been mention from 15th c. of Queen
Elizabeth's favorite cauls being made of chains. Could this have been
done the same? There were "crochets and hooks" counted in Queen Mary's
belongings when she returned to the court of Henry VIII. Then there is
a cope in a Spanish museum they say is trimmed in corochet. It seems
strange these things keep popping up but everyone says crochet didn't
exist until the 19th century. Maybe it just wasn't the fad until then.

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan dress generator
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Somewhere on the internet there is a sort of paper
doll Elizabethan dress design thing. A basic figure
that you can add basic shapes of costume pieces to,
and get an idea of what you want. Unfortunately it's
bookmarked on a computer I no longer have1 does anyone
know what I'm talking about? And where it is?

Thanks in advance,

MaggiRos

The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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Is this what you are looking for?
 =

http://www.sempstress.org/tools/dialadress.shtml
 =

 =

Laurie
 =

 =

 =

> Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:24:17 -0700> From: maggiros@yahoo.com> To: h-cos=
tume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan dress generator> > Somewhere =
on the internet there is a sort of paper> doll Elizabethan dress design thi=
ng. A basic figure> that you can add basic shapes of costume pieces to,> an=
d get an idea of what you want. Unfortunately it's> bookmarked on a compute=
r I no longer have1 does anyone> know what I'm talking about? And where it =
is?> > Thanks in advance,> > MaggiRos> > The Elizabethan World is at http:/=
/elizabethan.org> coming soon in paperback!> ______________________________=
_________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http:/=
/mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED=99  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=3DTXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Or is it this site? www.elizabethancostume.net Dressing Ceciely: An Elizabethan paper doll.

Catharine
-------------- Original message from MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Somewhere on the internet there is a sort of paper 
> doll Elizabethan dress design thing. A basic figure 
> that you can add basic shapes of costume pieces to, 
> and get an idea of what you want. Unfortunately it's 
> bookmarked on a computer I no longer have1 does anyone 
> know what I'm talking about? And where it is? 
> 
> Thanks in advance, 
> 
> MaggiRos 
> 
> The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org 
> coming soon in paperback! 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Oh, knowing how bad I am at the only non-English language I'm even vaguely  
able to communicate in (Italian), I'd agree about not making fun of any English 
 - as - second - language speaker!  and they do say that English is one  of 
the hardest languages to learn, because it's so inconsistent.
 
Is it bad that I always take measurements in imperial, then convert them to  
metric to use them / buy fabric / whatever?  Well.....living in the country  
that's probably the worst for using both systems at once.... (UK).
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 07/05/2008 19:01:22 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I hire  college students to intern in the museum for which I work, and as
part of  the application process I require that they submit a
college-level paper so  that I can see how well they write (writing is
part of the job). And the  one person who wrote the most beautifully in
the seven years I've been  doing this was a native Danish speaker. The
American college students  couldn't write their way out of a paper bag.
Quite frightening,  actually.... (Even more frightening is that most of
them can't identify the  parts of a ruler or do basic fractions-- also
things the job requires since  we hang art to specific measurements.
Meanwhile, my Danish student did all  her calculations in metric and then
converted them--correctly--to  Imperial.)


Astrida


 



   
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There is a bad joke around campus here.
They call a person who knows two languages bilingual, what do they call
someone who only knows one language... American. :P
It is becoming a necessity here to learn Spanish because of the influx of
people settling in the area that are coming from the south of the border. So
that joke will be fading away in the near future.

De



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Maggie - it only works with IE. I tried it in Firefox and it wouldn't work and then tried it in IE. Worked fine.

Kate
---- scarlettday@bellsouth.net wrote: 
> Or is it this site? www.elizabethancostume.net Dressing Ceciely: An Elizabethan paper doll.
> 
> Catharine
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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On May 7, 2008, at 11:53 AM, Bonnie Booker wrote:

> I think you are right. There has been mention from 16th c. of Queen
> Elizabeth's favorite cauls being made of chains. Could this have been
> done the same? There were "crochets and hooks" counted in Queen Mary's
> belongings when she returned to the court of Henry VIII. Then there is
> a cope in a Spanish museum they say is trimmed in crochet. It seems
> strange these things keep popping up but everyone says crochet didn't
> exist until the 19th century. Maybe it just wasn't the fad until then.


Santina Levey says in _Lace: A History_ that there is a braid used as  
trimming mentioned in the 16th century (1580s) Earl of Leicester's  
inventory that she thinks is chain stitch made with a hook -- but she  
doesn't say *why* she came to that conclusion.

Caul headdresses may have been trimmed with something similarly chain- 
like, but all the cauls I've seen have turned out to be made of solid  
fabric with diamond-shapes embroidered or couched onto the surface;  
they are not open hairnets in this era, or if they are, they are made  
in netting and always lined with fabric.

Unfortunately, most of the supposed identifications of "crocheted"  
trim or "crochet hooks" earlier than at least the mid-1700s have  
turned out to be flawed when examined closely. The "hooks and  
crotchets" in Queen Mary's wardrobe are a classic example -- once you  
see them, you realize that they are dress hooks, used for fastening  
the opening to a dress (like modern hoks and eyes, only bigger) or  
for looping up portions of the skirt. They are basically a little  
flat rectangle of metal with a bent-metal hook that is more or less  
semi-circular in shape -- the modern item they remind me of is a cup  
hook (for hanging cups in a cupboard. We have surviving examples  
still attached to garments that demonstrate clearly how they were used.

As I've said, I'm quite willing to believe Bjarne's example may be  
chain stitches and attachments made with a hook; I'm not dead set  
against there being crochet in the 18th century. But I see so many  
people jumping to conclusions from incomplete evidence that my  
initial response to most such suggestions is extreme skepticism until  
someone shows me really good evidence -- which it looks like Bjarne's  
example is. Yay for that!

Really, I do understand why people keep trying to find crochet  
earlier. But we have so many examples of new things originating  
suddenly and then becoming fads in a very short time -- even in the  
Middle Ages and Renaissance, when we don't usually think that of that  
happening -- that I don't see any need to think crochet was around  
for any length of time before it "caught on." My favorite example of  
a quick fad is, in fact, the rosary, which originated in more or less  
its present form around 1470: an amazing 100,000 people from all over  
Europe joined rosary confraternities in just seven years, from 1475 to
1481.

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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On May 7, 2008, at 10:15 PM, Chris Laning wrote:
> As I've said, I'm quite willing to believe Bjarne's example may be   =

> chain stitches and attachments made with a hook; I'm not dead set   =

> against there being crochet in the 18th century.

> Really, I do understand why people keep trying to find crochet   =

> earlier.


      18th Century costume reseachers have known about that example =97  =

the book from the Met has been out for quite some time!  Also fly  =

fringe bits are strung together either with a chain, a braid or a  =

woven tape.  Rick Hill of Colonial Williamsburg researched and taught  =

fringe-making, showing examples of all.

      Crochet had to develop somehow.  Tambour work was in use  =

(although it really gained popularity in the 1780s) =97 it being a  =

chain of embroidery made with a hook.  It's not surprising someone  =

would try it as a stand-alone chain.

      Similarly, knotting in the 18thC was done with a shuttle that  =

resembled a tatting shuttle.  Tatting as we know it developed later.

      Generally when people ask about crochet or tatting in relation  =

to the 18thC, they mean the lace and have a specific example at  =

hand.  That's why we often hear it did not exist at the time, it's  =

the answer to those questions.

      -Carol
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rare Textiles From Honduras Ruins Suggests Mayans
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Thanks Dawn for the link.  What wonderful research Margaret is doing!  There 
are some nice links on that webpage about the Mayans.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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At 11:02 PM 4/23/2008, you wrote:
>This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers come out, 
>wherever you are!
>
>About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

Books - right around 1100
Magazines - too many years to count of Sew News, Threads, Creative 
Machine Embroidery, Art Doll Quarterly, and a few issues of others 
along the way.

>What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

Don't remember now.

>What was your most recent purchase?

Several - at Costume Con 26 -
         Il Costume Popolare in Italia by Emma Calderini - 1946 - 
over half the book is color plates, it's in Italian (which we don't 
read, but Pierre's brother does....)
         Gothic Painting  by Jacques Dupont and Cesare Gnudi - 1954 - 
Study of paintings between the 12th and 14th centuries - 110 color 
plates printed separately and hand-leaved in.
         (Margaret Manatt of "The Gilded Bat" (vintage costume books 
and other stuph) is WAAAAYY too dangerous to shop at!)
And others....

>What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when 
>purchasing a publication?

Don't remember.

>About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

None

>What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on 
>fire, you would take it with you.

QEWU and Dressing a Galaxy (the one with the fabric swatches)

>What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book - a hippie 
book from the 60's or 70's - a quarter or so at a library sale....

>Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

Yes - the guest room has 3 bookcases and the upstairs landing has 3 
also, plus one in Pierre's sewing room.

>When did you start collecting?

20+ years ago

>Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Pleasure - definitely don't make any money from this!!

>Optional questions:
>
>How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

6 - Janome 11000, Husquvarna Designer 1, 25+ yr old Kenmore 
mechanical, a basic White serger, a Janome SewMini for travel, and a 
cobbler's machine we haven't had a chance to play with yet.

>How many sewing patterns do you own?

A 4-drawer filing cabinet stuffed full, a 3-drawer filing cabinet 
full, and several boxes and paper grocery bags stuffed and not 
sorted.  One of the more urgent "house projects" to be taken care of 
soon is organizing them.  Probably close to 400 or 500 total.

>I would like to add one more question:
>
>Time to come clean...What was the most price of  you have ever paid 
>for a book, collection of work, etc.  We won't tell your mate! 
>LOL!  You don't have to name give the title, just in case you were 
>taken to the cleaners on a purchase.  Example: a book and the amount.

Don't remember the book or amount, but almost guaranteed it came from 
the above mentioned Margaret Manatt.

Sandy

>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  

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A question has come up on another list about mourning colors in Europe during the Renaissance.  Black was obviously worn for fashion, not necessarily mourning.  Some sources say that white was worn for mourning in France.  What say you?

Thanks for your input,

Jane In No VA
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In the 16th century I can tell you this much.
Black was worn for initial mourning, the first year or two, and is
associated with "deepest mourning".  A cap of linen with a pleated
veil was typical in France, and that would usually be white.  Deepest
mourning was typically depicted by all black, the white pleated veil
of France is one exception that I know of.   For secondary mourning
other colors were deep grey, white, deep purple and black.

Henry VIII wore deepest mourning for a full year after the death of
Jane Seymour.
Phillip the Bold (IIRC) wore deepest mourning for his father from his
early 30s? until his own death.
Mary Queen of Scots wore deepest mourning for at least a full year
after the death of Frances.

Widows would usually wear mourning until a second marriage, or for the
rest of their lives.  One way that a widow could signal a willingness
to marry was to  put off the black. Although it was socially expected
that even a young woman would wear mourning for a husband for at least
two years, one year of deepest mourning and at least one year of
secondary. (and here I might be slipping into Victorian custom, so
I'll stop.)

That's the best I can do off the top of my head.
Bridgette.

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 9:28 AM, Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:
> A question has come up on another list about mourning colors in Europe during the Renaissance.  Black was obviously worn for fashion, not necessarily mourning.  Some sources say that white was worn for mourning in France.  What say you?
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Jane In No VA
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Ah ha, that's it. Thanks!
--- zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com> wrote:

> 
> Is this what you are looking for?
>  
> http://www.sempstress.org/tools/dialadress.shtml
>  
>  
> Laurie
>  
>  

The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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oh for goodness sake, IO didn't even think of that.
Thanks,

MaggiRos
--- Ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:

> Maggie - it only works with IE. I tried it in
> Firefox and it wouldn't work and then tried it in
> IE. Worked fine.
> 
> Kate
> ---- scarlettday@bellsouth.net wrote: 
> > Or is it this site? www.elizabethancostume.net
> Dressing Ceciely: An Elizabethan paper doll.
> > 
> > Catharine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Jane wrote:

>A question has come up on another list about mourning colors in Europe during the Renaissance.  Black was
>obviously worn for fashion, not necessarily mourning.  Some sources say that white was worn for mourning in
> France.  What say you?

I only know that there's a famous portrait of Mary Queen of Scots "en deuil blanc" (in white mourning) for her first husband.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book - a hippie 
book from the 60's or 70's - a quarter or so at a library sale>>

Hee hee. I have that book too. It's..um....interesting!

Dianne
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Here is the portrait of Mary in the French White Mourning veil.  Note
that she is wearing a simple French cut gown in black? beneath it.
Mari

http://www.nationalgalleries.org/media_collection/6/PG%20186.jpg
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From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
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Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 09:32:08 -0400
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The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by
widows in the 16th century.

Kass
 <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/>
Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
Certificate
<http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=123&d=160&e=&f=&g=&w=21
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marie Stewart
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 8:57 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe


Here is the portrait of Mary in the French White Mourning veil.  Note
that she is wearing a simple French cut gown in black? beneath it.
Mari

http://www.nationalgalleries.org/media_collection/6/PG%20186.jpg
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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
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Hmmmmm....   that's interesting.


> The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by
> widows in the 16th century.
>
> Kass
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From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 11:56:03 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
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Ireland tended to be about 50 years behind the times as far as fashion went.
So it was always assumed that this widow's wimple was just a hold-over from
the late medieval period.  But the portrait of Mary Queen of Scots you
showed makes me think that it wasn't so much an Irish-only thing.

Kass
 <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/>
Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marie Stewart
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe


Hmmmmm....   that's interesting.


> The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by
> widows in the 16th century.
>
> Kass

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May  9 12:11:36 2008
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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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I'm wondering if there is a Roman-Catholic / Gallic link...

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Kass McGann
<historian@reconstructinghistory.com> wrote:
> Ireland tended to be about 50 years behind the times as far as fashion went.
> So it was always assumed that this widow's wimple was just a hold-over from
> the late medieval period.  But the portrait of Mary Queen of Scots you
> showed makes me think that it wasn't so much an Irish-only thing.
>
> Kass
>  <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/>
> Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
> Certificate
> <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=123&d=160&e=&f=&g=&w=21
> &q=1&p=360&r=Y> .  They never expire!
> http://reconstructinghistory.com
> http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/
> http://kass-rants.livejournal.com
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Marie Stewart
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:42 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
>
>
> Hmmmmm....   that's interesting.
>
>
>> The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by
>> widows in the 16th century.
>>
>> Kass
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's certainly possible.

Kass
 <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/>
Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
Certificate
<http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=123&d=160&e=&f=&g=&w=21
&q=1&p=360&r=Y> .  They never expire!
http://reconstructinghistory.com
http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/
http://kass-rants.livejournal.com
http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marie Stewart
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 12:11 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe


I'm wondering if there is a Roman-Catholic / Gallic link...

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Kass McGann
<historian@reconstructinghistory.com> wrote:
> Ireland tended to be about 50 years behind the times as far as fashion
went.
> So it was always assumed that this widow's wimple was just a hold-over
from
> the late medieval period.  But the portrait of Mary Queen of Scots you
> showed makes me think that it wasn't so much an Irish-only thing.
>
> Kass

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own
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Gosh, me too. I made a bunch of stuff from it in the 70s. I've even based
some basic costumes on stuff in there - wizards, very early chemises, my
first SCA event outfit... Not top of my list, but I don't think I could ever
give it away. That stuff might come back into style some day!
Lynn

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 5:35 AM, Dianne <goofy4@comcast.net> wrote:

> The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book - a hippie
> book from the 60's or 70's - a quarter or so at a library sale>>
>
> Hee hee. I have that book too. It's..um....interesting!
>
> Dianne
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Free Mangle!
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I remember these being discussed before, even the photo was
interesting!  Here's the link:
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/zip/672307891.html

Good luck
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Does anyone have their favourite book "Lists" on amazon.com?

I am keen to update my tiny library with more titles.

Thanks

Sidney
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Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold bibliography
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Is there a collected list of her lifelong works? I have Patterns of 
Fashion and QEWU, but would like to see some of the articles and short 
pieces she wrote. Anyone got a good bibliography for her?



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold bibliography
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Hi Dawn--
There used to be one online. Google Janet Arnold. 
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 6:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold bibliography


Is there a collected list of her lifelong works? I have Patterns of 
Fashion and QEWU, but would like to see some of the articles and short 
pieces she wrote. Anyone got a good bibliography for her?



Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] I'll have you know (was Free Mangle)...
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...that if anyone's gonna mangle costumes around here, it's gonna be me!

-C.


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(Hi, Kass!)

I don't know, lots of the REST of the Irish garments we see in period art
are a lot old.  I think the wimple is just a wimple, though maybe you would
be more likely to see an old widow-lady wearing one.  The Chief's wife in
Derrick's Banquet is wearing a wimple.  They are still wearing turbans and
short veils and cotehardie, nearly, as well as the fact that the identifying
cultural garment for men is still a dress.  (You can only call it that if
you have been married to someone who wears one. - I made that up.)

Regina in L.A.
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I still recommend this book to newbie costumers, especially teens,  
who are no end amused by its groovieness.

Margo

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Speaking of Ms. Arnold, does anyone know of any pictures of her? I  
just find it so strange that I have no idea what such an important  
person in our field looked like.

Margo
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
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Getting into this discussion late, as with the 2 week Costume-Con 
hiatus, I'm still catching up on this list (lots of good stuff to 
read!).  Anyway,  my 2 cents:

Pierre has a Husquvarna Designer 1 and loves it.  He has all the 
newest toys that have come out for it - the XL hoop, the "endless" 
hoop, etc., and the newest software. He is the digitizer in the 
family - since all of the things we do are originals (originals as in 
not pre-digitized, sometimes, and sometimes drawn by us as well), and 
he's the one who can draw.  I pick the colors, though.  He wouldn't 
have any other machine.  While I don't know about the newer machines 
like the SE or the new one, be aware that the Viking software 
requires that a "dongle" be installed on the computer for the 
software to work.  If I can get him to chime in this weekend, he can 
give more details on digitizing.  I do know that you can do a large 
object in several pieces, as we did one - a large dragon for  the 
front of a costume.

I have the Janome 11000 and I love it also - we're very machine 
specific - He doesn't like my Janome and I don't like his Viking - 
just small differences in the way things are done (both sewing and 
embroidery) and how the machine "feels" cause this. They're both 
excellent machines.  The cool thing was that when we got my Janome, 
we didn't have to get different software - the Husqvarna/Viking 
software will output in the Janome format.  It might output in others 
as well.  The Janome will use either a standard flash drive or a 
machine-specific card, and can be connected to the computer as well - 
3 ways of entering designs.  One thing I like about the Janome is it 
is very well lit - I can work in a room with lesser lighting than I 
would normally like, because the lights are both bright enough, and 
they are full-spectrum.  I think it has 3 or 4 lights.  It comes with 
a bunch of feet, 2 hoops, etc.   What I really like about the Janome 
line is that a few years ago, they came out with an attachment that 
mimics a stand-alone machine called the "Omnistitcher".  What it does 
is allow you to apply cording, yarn, thin trim, etc. with a 
free-motion movement rather than running it thru a cording foot.  I 
have used this for several things to apply passementerie (or the 
fantasy version thereof) to costumes.  It is very quick and easy to 
do intricate scroll patterns with this - you can even do cursive writing!

As a side note, we both really like the Robison-Anton line of 
embroidery thread.  We have a lot fewer problems stitching out 
embroideries with this than with Sulky.

HTH,
Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  

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----- Original Message ----
From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Image

Speaking of Ms. Arnold, does anyone know of any pictures of her? I=A0 =

just find it so strange that I have no idea what such an important=A0 =

person in our field looked like.

Margo<<<<<
There's this one: http://www.vivahotels.com/images/news_images/janet-arnold=
/Janet-Arnold-1.jpg =

=A0
>From here: http://www.vivahotels.com/uk/events/costume-colloquium-a-tribute=
-to-janet-arnold.htm
=A0

=A0Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.net =



      Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
www.yahoo7.com.au/y7mail


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Does this help?


http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html 









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At 06:20 10/05/2008, you wrote:
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Image
>
>Speaking of Ms. Arnold, does anyone know of any pictures of her? I
>just find it so strange that I have no idea what such an important
>person in our field looked like.
>
>Margo<<<<<
>There's this one: 
>http://www.vivahotels.com/images/news_images/janet-arnold/Janet-Arnold-1.jpg
>
> >From here: 
> http://www.vivahotels.com/uk/events/costume-colloquium-a-tribute-to-janet-arnold.htm
>

I have personal photos of Janet Arnold - how do I post them to the 
forum? I really don't particularly want to post them to Photobucket, 
but will if I have to.

Suzi

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi All,

What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a
very open ended question!

What do you find best to use in what situations.

Sidney
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Is this the same machine I know as a "serger"?

I generally use the cones of thread which are mostly Polyester; though I
suspect it would be best to coordinate your needle thread(s) with your
fabric as is usually done for standard sewing machines. Hope this helps,
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of S Young
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 4:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

Hi All,

What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a
very open ended question!

What do you find best to use in what situations.

Sidney
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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At 12:20 10/05/2008, you wrote:
>Is this the same machine I know as a "serger"?
>
>I generally use the cones of thread which are mostly Polyester; though I
>suspect it would be best to coordinate your needle thread(s) with your
>fabric as is usually done for standard sewing machines. Hope this helps,
>Betsy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of S Young
>Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 4:11 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
>
>Hi All,
>
>What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a
>very open ended question!
>
>What do you find best to use in what situations.

In the U.K. I have always tried to buy proper overlocker thread, sold 
on big cones, for my old Singer industrial machine. When it was first 
made that was all that was available, so that is what it was made 
for. However, on certain occasions, like trying to match a specific 
colour, I do use whatever happens to match.

As a side note, I really hate synthetic thread of any kind, and 
recently found a real bargain in a box of 1000
metre white cotton thread spools - a thread which has been 
discontinued in the U.K.

Suzi

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I am so glad you mentioned the Designer 1 machine. I am purchasing one from a friend who bought it with all the accessories, but her health won't let her use it much. It is to be my first embroidery machine, so any advice will be greatly appreciated. She bought the extra software too, though I'm not sure yet what all that entails. 
   
  Thanks,
   
  Vicky

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
  Getting into this discussion late, as with the 2 week Costume-Con 
hiatus, I'm still catching up on this list (lots of good stuff to 
read!). Anyway, my 2 cents:

Pierre has a Husquvarna Designer 1 and loves it. He has all the 
newest toys that have come out for it - the XL hoop, the "endless" 
hoop, etc., and the newest software. He is the digitizer in the 
family - since all of the things we do are originals (originals as in 
not pre-digitized, sometimes, and sometimes drawn by us as well), and 
he's the one who can draw. I pick the colors, though. He wouldn't 
have any other machine. While I don't know about the newer machines 
like the SE or the new one, be aware that the Viking software 
requires that a "dongle" be installed on the computer for the 
software to work. If I can get him to chime in this weekend, he can 
give more details on digitizing. I do know that you can do a large 
object in several pieces, as we did one - a large dragon for the 
front of a costume.

I have the Janome 11000 and I love it also - we're very machine 
specific - He doesn't like my Janome and I don't like his Viking - 
just small differences in the way things are done (both sewing and 
embroidery) and how the machine "feels" cause this. They're both 
excellent machines. The cool thing was that when we got my Janome, 
we didn't have to get different software - the Husqvarna/Viking 
software will output in the Janome format. It might output in others 
as well. The Janome will use either a standard flash drive or a 
machine-specific card, and can be connected to the computer as well - 
3 ways of entering designs. One thing I like about the Janome is it 
is very well lit - I can work in a room with lesser lighting than I 
would normally like, because the lights are both bright enough, and 
they are full-spectrum. I think it has 3 or 4 lights. It comes with 
a bunch of feet, 2 hoops, etc. What I really like about the Janome 
line is that a few years ago, they came out with an attachment that 
mimics a stand-alone machine called the "Omnistitcher". What it does 
is allow you to apply cording, yarn, thin trim, etc. with a 
free-motion movement rather than running it thru a cording foot. I 
have used this for several things to apply passementerie (or the 
fantasy version thereof) to costumes. It is very quick and easy to 
do intricate scroll patterns with this - you can even do cursive writing!

As a side note, we both really like the Robison-Anton line of 
embroidery thread. We have a lot fewer problems stitching out 
embroideries with this than with Sulky.

HTH,
Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 08:24:36 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I never use cotton thread for anything, as I live in a dry climate, and 
it breaks faster.  I think I read that poly has more give to it as 
well.  I just use the cheap poly cone threads that are made for 
sergers.  One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think 
that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular 
machine sewing than all poly?  Joanns just discontinued the former.

Sylvia


On May 10, 2008, at 3:10 AM, S Young wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a
> very open ended question!
>
> What do you find best to use in what situations.
>
> Sidney
> _______________________________________________
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Anyone have any experience with/comments on Bernina machines?

Thanks

Jane In rainy No VA
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Hi Jane,

Greetings from soggy Fauquier County!  :)

I have a Bernina Artista 200e, which I adore.  It performs superbly as a
standard sewing machine, can do overlock/serging, and is really excellent at
embroidery.  It has fairly easy to understand instructions on scanning new
designs, can hoop very well and easily, and even has an attachment for
embroidering on baseball caps.  The Artista series is about 3 years old now,
but I really love mine.  :)

If you're nearby, give me a holler offline if you'd like to come by and play
with it sometime; I think getting to actually sew or embroider on a machine
is a good idea.

Cheers,
Sharon

On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 2:00 PM, <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 16:37:34 +0000
> From: "Jane Pease" <jmdpease@att.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Sewing and Embroidery Machines
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> Anyone have any experience with/comments on Bernina machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jane In rainy No VA
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>I never use cotton thread for anything, as I live in a dry climate, and
> it breaks faster.  I think I read that poly has more give to it as
> well.  I just use the cheap poly cone threads that are made for
> sergers.  One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think
> that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular
> machine sewing than all poly?  Joanns just discontinued the former.

I have an older Viking, and if I use the cheap coned thread on that machine 
I have no end of trouble. Skipped stitches, bobbin snarls, tension binding, 
etc.  I generally use Gutterman, which I think is a cotton/poly thread.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
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I took a serging class at a community college with a woman who ran a sewing machine repair place (they sold used and Viking machines too.).  She warned us that the large cones of thread sold as "serger thread" at places like Joannes were not good quality.  (This does not include the quality threads like Gutterman etc -nor does it include the specialty threads like wooly nylon - they seem to work just fine)  As a consequence I purchased thread from her but it never had any markings on it.  I was fortunate enough to buy a set of the basic colors - black, white, cream, and grey.... That was almost 20 years ago and I still have plenty....
 
My guess is that it is industrial quality thread - and oddly enough we have several of those tailoring ends/discount fabric stores in Phoenix that sells trims, buttons, fabric, etc.  They also sell what looks like thread cones which were used in industrial sewing construction, but perhaps were so color specific that when they were done with the "run" they just got rid of the thread. So, I guess I'd call it "used" thread - but I have never had any problems with any of it.  Who knows who made it!
 
Sg



> From: landofoz@netins.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 16:17:31 -0500> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread> > > I have an older Viking, and if I use the cheap coned thread on that machine > I have no end of trouble. Skipped stitches, bobbin snarls, tension binding, > etc. I generally use Gutterman, which I think is a cotton/poly thread.> > Denise B> Iowa > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>   One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think 
> that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular 
> machine sewing than all poly?  
I think it is going to depend on your machine and what you are sewing. 
Some of my older machines sew beautifully with silk and cotton threads, 
but snarl on any kind of polyester or synthetic thread. My new 
computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler, 
but shreds silk thread.

When I sew cotton fabrics I like to sew with cotton thread so the fibers 
all react the same way in the wash. Cotton threads can shrink in the 
wash and cause your seams to be come puckered.

> Joanns just discontinued the former.
>   
And lost my thread business. I still buy cotton covered poly from 
Hancock's.

Sadly, I noticed about 12 years ago that the quality of Coats & Clark 
dropped significantly. They used to sell a rather smooth thread, and the 
newer thread is much coarser and has more slubs in it by comparison. You 
can see and feel the difference.

Unfortunately, there isn't a good replacement for C&C. I was using 
Signature brand for a while there, but they discontinued their cotton 
home sewing thread a few years back, and I am down to my last couple of 
spools of it.




Dawn

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Defiinitely depends on the machine - my Janome works just fine with 
the super-fine monofilament thread (YLI wonder thread, available from 
Clotilde or Nancys Notions) or the Sulky clear poly thread, but 
Pierre's Designer 1 hates it - won't sew, breaks the thread, tangles 
in big loops on the bottom of the fabric, etc.  I don't use it for 
everything, but sometimes you need clear thread 'cause nothing else 
matches.  I don't use the Coats monofilament though - the contrast 
between the two is like the difference between 2 lb. test and 50 lb. 
test fishing line.

I have also noticed the decline in quality of Coats 
thread.  Unfortunately, the other brands don't come in anywhere near 
as many colors (at least in our area).

Sandy

At 07:21 PM 5/10/2008, you wrote:
>Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> >   One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think
> > that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular
> > machine sewing than all poly?
>I think it is going to depend on your machine and what you are sewing.
>Some of my older machines sew beautifully with silk and cotton threads,
>but snarl on any kind of polyester or synthetic thread. My new
>computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler,
>but shreds silk thread.
>
>Sadly, I noticed about 12 years ago that the quality of Coats & Clark
>dropped significantly. They used to sell a rather smooth thread, and the
>newer thread is much coarser and has more slubs in it by comparison. You
>can see and feel the difference.
>
>Unfortunately, there isn't a good replacement for C&C. I was using
>Signature brand for a while there, but they discontinued their cotton
>home sewing thread a few years back, and I am down to my last couple of
>spools of it.
>
>Dawn

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bernina, was: Re: Sewing and Embroidery Machines
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I did a quick google for your machine, WOW, it looks fantastic! Beats
the crap out of my simple Janome US2022 which is just dead simple to
use but nothing fancy.

Sidney



On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 5:52 AM, Sharon Henderson
<henderson.sharon@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Jane,
>
> Greetings from soggy Fauquier County!  :)
>
> I have a Bernina Artista 200e, which I adore.  It performs superbly as a
> standard sewing machine, can do overlock/serging, and is really excellent at
> embroidery.  It has fairly easy to understand instructions on scanning new
> designs, can hoop very well and easily, and even has an attachment for
> embroidering on baseball caps.  The Artista series is about 3 years old now,
> but I really love mine.  :)
>
> If you're nearby, give me a holler offline if you'd like to come by and play
> with it sometime; I think getting to actually sew or embroider on a machine
> is a good idea.
>
> Cheers,
> Sharon
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My best friend just bought a Bernina 440QE which she is very happy
with. She had an early model Pfaff and another Bernina but they gather
dust now that she has this one.

Sidney


On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 2:37 AM, Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience with/comments on Bernina machines?
>
> Thanks
>
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I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I 
have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need 
one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong 
with the main machine.

So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
different things?

Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!

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Speaking just for myself, I taught my kids to sew.  Snarling was heard over some people "hogging" the machine.  Then I had one croak in the middle of a major project, and I vowed never to be without a backup again.  So I have my main machine, and my backup, my son has a machine, my daughter has a machine, and I have a backup for THEM to use in case one of their machines goes down.  I also periodically help or teach other people to sew who are just learning, and it's easier for me to set up a spare machine than for them to haul theirs around in the car.  

Sewing machines and stock pots.  Got a bunch of both of them.   :-)

LuAnn



> Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:06:45 +0100
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: suzi@suziclarke.co.uk
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
> 
> 
> 
> I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I 
> have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need 
> one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong 
> with the main machine.
> 
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
> different things?
> 
> Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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> From: LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machin=
es

> SNIPPED Snarling was heard over some people "hogging" the machine. =

> Then I had one croak in the middle of a major project, and I vowed never =
to be without a backup again.  SNIPPED FOR BREVITY AND THOSE WHO GET THE LI=
ST IN DIGEST FORM> =

> Sewing machines and stock pots.  Got a bunch of both of them.   :-)

COMMENT
GenTLes of the List,
When our little group of living history enthusiasts were starting the "Comp=
any of The Duke's Leopards" in "old" Jersey in 2003, - one of the issues wa=
s costumes for those who hadn't already gotten them from previous involveme=
nts elsewhere.
Only three of the original lady founding members had sewing amchines. Thoug=
h other newbies wanting to join had probably learned to sew in "Household E=
conomics" Classes in their schooldays, - in their modern married lives and =
our "disposable" society they had never needed to buy sewing machines of th=
eir own.
Cheap sewing machines were needed to loan out.
So I took to visiting the local Charity [Hospice} Shop warehouse, and buyin=
g every discarded older sewing machine that came in for possible sale - con=
centrating on "good reputation" Brand names, and those with metal gears. Th=
e average price I paid before I stopped buying was =A35-00GB per machine.
Then I took the machines to our local indepewndent Sewing machine Engineer =
[ also a re-enactor of Napoleonic Wars & WW2, so he understood our problem =
of DIY costuming and lack of funds] and he did me a good deal on overhaul p=
rices.
The end result, when I left the "Duke's Leopards", was that I had 11 second=
hand but fully-overhauled sewing machines of varying ages and makes,  - ran=
ging from hand-operated Singers to "high-end" Berninas of the 1960's/70's -=
 up in the loft. =

2 of them [Singer "Fashionmates" with the same Model Number] I gave to our =
grand-daughter when she joined the SCA in the South of England. As she live=
s in a village in the middle of the open countryside of Salisbury Plain, mi=
les from any sewing machine engineer, I gave her both Fashionmates so she'd=
 have a standby one, if one broke while she was in the middle of making som=
e  garb for herself.
 Since those of us who are SCAdians in "old Jersey" are hoping to recruit o=
thers and found a Shire local to our island - I'm going to hang onto the re=
maining  9 machines - since I foresee the DIY-costuming problem arising aga=
in in that situation.
I don't know how widespread "charity shops" are in the USA [here in "old Je=
rsey we have OXFAM, MENCAP, and one for the "Jersey Hospice" and a couple o=
f others that I've never visited; most Uk towns of any size have at least o=
ne "charity shop"] - but if you want standby machines, try haunting your lo=
cal charity shop [do you call them "Thrift Shops" in the USA?]; - or what y=
ou call "yard sales" - [our UK equivalents are "car-boot sales"] - and try =
to pick-up secondhand sewing-machines that way. =

It's worked for me.

In Service,
Matthew Baker


--- On Sun, 11/5/08, LuAnn Mason <luann_mason@msn.com> wrote:

> =

> LuAnn
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I, for one, collect them.  I specialize in old treadles and  
handcranks.  I make mine fully functional. I have found the old  
Singers, prior to the 600 series, can sew through almost anything  
without a problem.  The newer plastic ones can have some real problems  
with multiple layers of denim and canvas and leather, for example. I  
do  keep one modern machine (a Janome 4800) and a serger, but the rest  
of my machines are rescues. They are pretty, they sew a better  
straight stitch than the new ones, and it is difficult to harm one.   
Unlike the new ones that go out of time alot.  I just picked up an  
industrial machine, sews perfectly, for free because the owner died  
and the son-in-law couldn't keep it.  Sews like a dream, now I have  
one real industrial treadle (Singer 31-15) and one electric (Singer  
95-40) plus a multitude of machines originally designed as home   
machines.  I guess I just like preserving some history. And as an  
added bonus, I can sew a tent if I want to <g>. One of the other  
machines, a 201, was my grandmother's machine. And it still works as  
well as the day she bought it (well, it got rewired once for safety).   
It was the one I learned on.  I'm sure there are a few more on this  
list who also collect and appreciate the old ones - I sometimes  
recognize a name or two from the treadle-on list. Sure, some of the  
features and stitches are nice on the new ones, so I keep one just in  
case I need it, but I find the majority of my sewing is straight  
stitch, and any of my machines can do that.
-Megan

On May 11, 2008, at 4:06 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I
> have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need
> one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong
> with the main machine.
>
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do
> different things?
>
> Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!
>
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Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 22:54:02 +1000
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have been collecting sewing machines so our dance group can make
costumes. As many of the dancers are students our budget was limited,
so I asked around for donations of old machines. These machines have
been wonderful and are often easy to service without taking in to
shops. I have about 8 sewing machines and two overlockers.
My husqvana is in for repairs, again, and these back up machines are
saving my skin!
In the meantime I'm contemplating selling my industrial satin stitcher
and straight stitcher and buying an embroidery machine, not for
sewing, but to do embroidery on baroque frockcoats and waistcoats. We
have been doing it all by hand, lovely, but slow. I've held off
because all our computers are macs, but I've now got a laptop with
windows xp on it, so might be able to use the software. Now I'm
looking for a good machine in the lower price bracket that will suit.

Cheers, Aylwen

http://www.bordonia.org
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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I find myself collecting machines as well. I began with a Viking that would 
through fits it if hit a pin and would have to go to the shop to get 
repaired (grrr) thus leaving me without a machine entirely. I then got a 
1950's or earlier Singer sewing machine, model 201-2, through Freecycle 
(yup--free) and it bends pins and keeps on going. My back up is a Singer 
Sew-Handy 20-10 (1950's, I think) that received some care from our local 
sewing machine repair shop and works as treat, as well as is hyper portable, 
as all it requires is a clamp to secure it to the table so it won't move as 
you turn the wheel. I just inherited a Singer Touch & Sew, model 600 E, from 
my husband's grandmother. As I lost the foot pedal in the process of 
transferring it to the car, I need to find another.

Man, it feel so good to have working machines and back-ups. Not having a 
machine was a low point.


Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LuAnn Mason" <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 4:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines


> Speaking just for myself, I taught my kids to sew.  Snarling was heard 
> over some people "hogging" the machine.  Then I had one croak in the 
> middle of a major project, and I vowed never to be without a backup again. 
> So I have my main machine, and my backup, my son has a machine, my 
> daughter has a machine, and I have a backup for THEM to use in case one of 
> their machines goes down.  I also periodically help or teach other people 
> to sew who are just learning, and it's easier for me to set up a spare 
> machine than for them to haul theirs around in the car.
>
> Sewing machines and stock pots.  Got a bunch of both of them.   :-)
>
> LuAnn
>
>
>
>> Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:06:45 +0100
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> From: suzi@suziclarke.co.uk
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery 
>> Machines
>>
>>
>>
>> I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I
>> have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need
>> one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong
>> with the main machine.
>>
>> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when
>> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do
>> different things?
>>
>> Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
> http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mobile_052008
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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I have 18 sewing machines in my house; two on loan making a whopping 20. 
Four are treadles, two feather weights, and the earliest dates (that I can 
tell) from 1919 I may have earlier models but I cannot trace them. This also 
includes my one lone serger and my industrial machine. My main machine is my 
Singer Stylist c.1969

My favourite is my hand crank portable c.1920 that save my bacon back the 
year we had Hurricane Juan and we were without power for over a week and I 
had sewing to do; sad irons, a hand crank and oil lamp...somehow fitting in 
my c1870s house

Sarah Paterson
Great Village, NS
Canada
----- Original Message ----- 

>
>
> I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I
> have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need
> one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong
> with the main machine.
>
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do
> different things?
>
> Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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I collect vintage machines and often will pick up
"rescues" and refurbish, date for awhile then pass
them on to someone who needs a machine.

I guess I love the old metal jobbers and they are so
dependable.  The older machines make me think of
another time when everyone sewed.  They are also in
most cases visually elegant.  I don't know why, I love
them and they provoke a sense of nostalgia in me
although I was born in the mid sixties and not the mid
thirties.

I use my more modern machines for most of my sewing
but when I need a strong straight stitch, I get out my
201.  I also have a Bernina I will travel with, a
smaller Featherweight I take quilt classes with and
some others I just use once in a while when I have
multiple projects occurring and need a quick "run-off"
without bothering my set-up.

I also found out that many of the thrift stores just
trash the machines--send them to the scrap yard and
sell the cabinets.  I don't want a world where these
machines are no longer around so I hedge my bets and
provide safe, clean, dry sanctuary.  Some time ago, I
underwent a purge and relocated several machine heads
through freecycle.

Kathy (Singers 400, 500, 15-91, 201, Bernina 810,
Bernette 006D serger, and Janome 9000, CS-100.) 
Previous foster parent of many Kenmores, a Pfaff, and
Japanese 15-91 clones that have gone on to new homes.
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
> different things?
The first machine was one my boyfriend bought at a charity sale, a 
1940's vintage machine in a beautiful cabinet, with all attachments. It 
sewed well, but it has a rubber wheel thingy that moves it instead of a 
belt, and it got hard to find the part after the local shop sold us the 
3 pieces they had.

About that time I inherited my grandmother's 1960's Kenmore and cabinet, 
and switched to that, but the old machine was so pretty I kept it.

When I went on to grad school I decided I needed a newer machine that 
did buttonholes, so I bought a cheap Elna. I kept both machines out to 
use since I often worked on different projects concurrently, and didn't 
like to constantly re-thread the machine throughout the week. I kept the 
Kenmore out of sentimentality.

I wanted a cabinet for the Elna, so I bought one at a yard sale, 
promptly took it apart and began to refinish it. That was 15 years ago, 
and it still isn't finished. It's in pieces in my garage. So I bought a 
2nd cabinet, but this one came with a White in it. The White is in a box 
in the garage and I had the Elna in that cabinet for several years. Have 
never used the White except to test it, and it works beautifully. I keep 
it because it is the machine that the cabinet was built for, and if I 
ever get rid of them it will be as a set. (And because I can't find it 
it the garage).

Then my husband decided that I needed a nicer machine, and took me to 
buy a top-of-the-line Viking after we got married. Now the Viking is in 
the cabinet and is my main machine, while I keep the Elna handy for 
traveling with, as it is more portable (and if it should get stolen out 
of my car I won't care as much).  My grandmother's Kenmore is in my 
sewing room with notions piled high on the table, and I use the vintage 
machine in the nice mahogany cabinet as an entryway table.


My husband inherited his mother's 60's era machine a few years ago, but 
we decided to sell it to a friend's mother who needed a backup machine.



Dawn

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Hello all, and happy Mother's day,

9 original models by Nostalgic Needle (Sharon Cohen) are up for auction on 
ebay. The 2 lowest starting prices are $19.00 and the highest starting price is 
for the Stumpwork Mirror Surround at $2,900.00.

The piece is featured on the cover of the Winter 2007 Sampler & Antique 
Needlework Magazine.  This intensive work of stumpwork was stitched in the manner 
of 17th Century English Stumpwork Mirror Surrounds and was accomplished by 
Sharon over a period of many years and features hundreds of thousands of stitches, 
every one worked with great care and love.  The embroidery is framed in a 
lovely gold toned wooden frame and has a mirror in the center in the traditions 
of old.

This special piece is a one of a kind embroidery by the artist and will 
feature documentation to the buyer's wishes to this effect.  The finished project 
measures 14 1/2" x 15 1/2" framed. 

Sharon Cohen has dozens of embroideries in private and public collections and 
this is her "masterwork" of the art of raised embroidery and she will never 
produce another one like it.


    
    
    




**************
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.
      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 10:13:44 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
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I have a Singer 20U commercial machine, a basic 4-thread serger, and  
a White Jeans machine for when I need a portable or free arm.    I  
also have a 20 year old Viking I 've been carting around with me for  
years because it's too good to get rid of and too expensive to fix,  
sigh...and an older serger which I'm giving to a friend.

I'm hoping to investigate embroidery machines soon, but for now what  
I have does fine.

Margo
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http://www.etsy.com/alchemy/request.php?id=9092
 
Anyone know what the origin of the name of this thing is?  Cool site btw for handmade items.
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I don't have many, and likewise on sewing professionally.
 
I have one that I use all the time, one that's a back up in case that goes  
down, and two that are of sentimental value that are at the back of my big walk 
 in cupboard (one was my Nana's, one was Nige's Nana's).
 
Don't think I''ll trade my current one in when I need a new one though, as  
that belonged to a friend's grandmother....
 
Other than that, one machine plus one back up would be my rule.  
 
I don't even have a proper overlocker at the mo.
 
 
Debbie
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 11/05/2008 14:05:00 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I am  fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I 
have only  two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need 
one, as long as  it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong 
with the main  machine.

So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one  when 
buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do  
different things?

Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current  job!


 



   
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On 11 May 2008, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> I am fascinated by the fact that some people have many machines. I 
> have only two plus a serger, and I sew professionally. I only need 
> one, as long as it works - the other is in case anything goes wrong 
> with the main machine.
> 
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
> different things?

My wife and I share two machines and a serger.  The theory is that the
fancy embroidery machine is used for fancy embroidery and as a backup,
while the simpler machine is used for most sewing to keep the mileage
off the expensive one.  Both are Husqvarnas, so they share feet, bobbins,
etc.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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On 11 May 2008, Aylwen Garden wrote:

> I've held off
> because all our computers are macs, but I've now got a laptop with
> windows xp on it, so might be able to use the software. 

That's a problem I have, too.  I have an ancient DOS machine that gets
dragged out to run the embroidery software, but I really need to find a
more modern solution before the ancient computer finally gives up the
ghost.  I'm looking at windows emulators for my Mac, and will probably
get a USB card reader.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? 

I forgot to answer this part. The last couple of machines that I bought were from Target and they don't do trade-ins. The Viking was from an estate sale.

kate
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> http://www.etsy.com/alchemy/request.php?id=9092
>  
> Anyone know what the origin of the name of this thing is?  Cool site btw for handmade items.

If you follow the link to knitty.com given on that etsy page, you can 
read the designer's statement: "I decided to call this design cleaves 
because it's a combination of a cowl and sleeves, and it covers my 
cleavage!"

W

-- 
*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear/
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  | 23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"----*
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---- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote: 
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
> different things?

I have 2 that I use on a consistent basis - the old Viking (because it has embroidery stitches) and the EuroPro because I love its button hole foot. The foot, unlike the one for the Viking, has small grippers that keep the fabric from sliding around. 

The JC Penney machine was a backup, but now should probably go to a good home. That is, as soon as I can find all of its attachments. My daughters tidied up and I can't find anything now!

The 2 antique machines I have are mostly because I love their appearance - and the treadle machine is the one that I used to make my wedding gown. The other is electrified, but it has a stunningly beautiful bentwood case.

I also have a small EuroPro that is dual powered - either batteries or AC - so it goes with me to SCA events (like Pennsic or Gulf Wars) for those uh-oh repairs (fixing an entire seam for example) that need to be done quickly. It's nice and does a regular lock stitch instead of a chain stitch. It's packed  in its own carrying case along with thread, extra batteries, pins, scissors, and needles.

Kate
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---- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote: 
> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
> different things?

I have 2 that I use on a consistent basis - the old Viking (because it has embroidery stitches) and the EuroPro because I love its button hole foot. The foot, unlike the one for the Viking, has small grippers that keep the fabric from sliding around. 

The JC Penney machine was a backup, but now should probably go to a good home. That is, as soon as I can find all of its attachments. My daughters tidied up and I can't find anything now!

The 2 antique machines I have are mostly because I love their appearance - and the treadle machine is the one that I used to make my wedding gown. The other is electrified, but it has a stunningly beautiful bentwood case.

I also have a small EuroPro that is dual powered - either batteries or AC - so it goes with me to SCA events (like Pennsic or Gulf Wars) for those uh-oh repairs (fixing an entire seam for example) that need to be done quickly. It's nice and does a regular lock stitch instead of a chain stitch. It's packed  in its own carrying case along with thread, extra batteries, pins, scissors, and needles.

Kate
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
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You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of jerking
going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether it's
dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I also like
to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much heat,
and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.

If you like to sew with cotton, look for Mettler silk finish. There is no
silk in it, but it is very smooth and a little bit shiny. Works well for
hand or machine sewing. I use it for quilting, too.

Kim

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
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I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? I 
know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams 
that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I 
never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm 
adding to the machine collection. . .

I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the 
bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great 
straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had 
another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it 
easy to get them into good condition?  Mine was like new.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Kim Baird wrote:
>  
> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of jerking
> going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether it's
> dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I also like
> to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much heat,
> and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.
> 

<snip>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
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Fran--
I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I really
liked it. I still don't use it for quilting, but it is very handy for
garment sewing. It finishes off seam allowances quickly and beautifully. I
use it when sewing Victorian clothing, too. I'm not about to finish all
those seams by hand overcasting, when they're not visible while wearing the
garment anyway.

Two other handy uses: rolled hems, such as napkins, and gathering anything.

Because they have so many possible settings, and differential feed, you can
make them do many different things. If you get a serger, please take a class
or two on what they can do.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 6:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? I
know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams that
can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I never sew
knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm adding to the
machine collection. . .

I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the bentwood
case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great straight
stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had another machine,
and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it easy to get them into
good condition?  Mine was like new.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Kim Baird wrote:
>  
> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of 
> jerking going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, 
> whether it's dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or 
> Metrosene. I also like to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it
covers the edge so well.
> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much 
> heat, and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.
> 

<snip>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Dianne" <goofy4@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
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I, for one, collect them.  I specialize in old treadles and
handcranks.  I make mine fully functional. I have found the old
Singers, prior to the 600 series, can sew through almost anything
without a problem. >>

Amen! My little Singer 99K is a gorgeous machine. The two Brother machines 
(one sewing, one embroidery only) are functional, and look it. They create 
beautiful things, but they aren't beautiful things in and of themselves.

Of course, I still want a treadle machine, and a handcrank, and a 
Featherweight, and ooh of course that shiny Duetta with the HUGE embroidery 
field. :-)

Dianne 

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What model would you recommend?

Thanks,

Fran

Kim Baird wrote:
> Fran--
> I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I really
> liked it. I
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Subject: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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BTW, who has a knitting machine/loom?

Fran
Lavolta Press
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BTW, who has a knitting machine/loom?

Fran
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:27:48 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they 
don't fray.  Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes, 
you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I 
always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged 
anymore

Sylvia

On May 11, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? 
> I
> know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams
> that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I
> never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm
> adding to the machine collection. . .
>
> I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the
> bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great
> straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had
> another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it
> easy to get them into good condition?  Mine was like new.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Kim Baird wrote:
>>
>> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of 
>> jerking
>> going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether 
>> it's
>> dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I 
>> also like
>> to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
>> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much 
>> heat,
>> and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.
>>
>
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they 
> don't fray.  Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes, 
> you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I 
> always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged 
> anymore

I'm still trying to find out when, historically, commercial cotton 
dresses in Sweden (heck, Scandinavia!) began to be overlocked? At some 
point it is historically accurate, but I can't find when. Anyone have 
any ideas?

           -Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitted Cleaves ?
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I'm new here and have been lurking, but I actually know the answer to this one.
The designer Katherine Summer O'Neal said
"I decided to call this design cleaves because it's a combination of a cowl and sleeves, and it covers my cleavage!"
from
http://www.knitty.com/issuespring05/PATTcleaves.html
Susan

From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Knitted Cleaves ?
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://www.etsy.com/alchemy/request.php?id=9092
 
Anyone know what the origin of the name of this thing is?  Cool site btw for handmade 
items.


If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein
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Take a look at Baby Lock or Bernette sergers.

Sewing machine dealers sell sergers, but they are not made by sewing machine
manufacturers. They are all made in Asia, to the specifications of the
company that puts its name on them.

Over the years, they have added many features to the original, home overlock
machine. Some of them are useful, some are only additional expense. 

I would recommend a 3/4 thread model with differential feed. You do NOT need
to pay extra for a serger that sets its own tensions for the different
stitches. A little practice and setting tensions is simple to do. In fact,
you are expected to adjust the tension any time you serge on a different
fabric, or with a different thread. 

Since you don't sew with knits, you won't need a cover stitch. This is the
stitch used to hem T-shirts, etc. Some sergers can convert from overlock to
cover stitch and back again, but you won't use this feature.

Models made within the last 10 years should be fairly easy to thread. You
don't need to buy something with an automatic threading system, unless you
want to spend the extra money. I do save time by tying the new thread on to
the old one, and pulling it through with the tension turned to zero.

You can get a blind hem foot for your serger, if you want to finish the raw
edge and hem at the same time, and at high speed. I usually find it easier
not to do this, but if I had a lot of curtains or something large to do, it
would come in handy.

Do try the machine before you buy. If it sounds clackety or feels shaky when
it sews, it's probably too cheaply made and you shouldn't buy it.

You can probably find a decent, used 3/4 thread serger with differential
feed under $300. If you buy from a dealer, don't hesitate to dicker on
price. If they won't come down, maybe they'll throw in a free accessory.

Good luck.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

What model would you recommend?

Thanks,

Fran

Kim Baird wrote:
> Fran--
> I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I 
> really liked it. I
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I only have four and they are collecting dust.  Does collecting dust count? 
One modern machine is for sewing when I get time.  A treadle that I bought 
to relearn how to use.  I opted to use a treadle in home ec. instead of the 
modern machines.  My old Kenmore was retired in 2006.  I won't get rid of it 
for sentimental reasons.  I have one electric machine from the 1920s that I 
have never used. It doesn't have an electric plug.  It is more for 
decoration in my office.

I thought of you all yesterday while going to yard sales.  There were a lot 
of old Kenmores in cabinets.  I thought about buying one, but knew I had no 
place to put them.  I really don't want to start collecting.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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You can use the serger a bit and be historically accurate for early
20th century dresses.  I have a lingerie dress, lightweight cotton
with lace insertion, from approx 1905, with some overlocked/serged
seams.

I had a very early Viking home serger, bought about 25 years ago, that
was always such a pain to thread and the tension would get screwed up
easily.  I haven't had a working serger for about 10 years now and I
miss it.  Does anyone have a recent Viking serger, any
recommendations?

Katy

On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 8:27 PM, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they
> don't fray.  Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes,
> you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I
> always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged
> anymore
>
> Sylvia
>
> On May 11, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
>> I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits?
>> I
>> know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams
>> that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I
>> never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm
>> adding to the machine collection. . .
>>
>> I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the
>> bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great
>> straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had
>> another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it
>> easy to get them into good condition?  Mine was like new.
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>> Kim Baird wrote:
>>>
>>> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of
>>> jerking
>>> going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether
>>> it's
>>> dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I
>>> also like
>>> to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
>>> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much
>>> heat,
>>> and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.
>>>
>>
>> <snip>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Hi, 

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if so. 

But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use something like pants???)? 

I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after all (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I rather post here and ask:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana
 
       
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery
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18?? No wonder you need that big house :).
 
I learned to sew on my grt-grandmother's treadle machine and my mothers
dependable singer and have four of my own right now.  Currently my main
machine is a Bernina (basic model, not to many bells and whistles but I
love it).  The backup is my 30 yr old White.  I also have a veteran
Kenmore that a friend used for sewing canvas and left me when she moved.
  I use it for the heavy duty sewing I don't want to push the Bernina on
(which isn't much).  There is also an old singer in a cabinet that used
to be the back-up machine but is now looking for a good home.
 
I have never felt the need for a serger, not sure why, just never
appealed to me.  Ditto with an embroidery machine altho I can see where
they could be very handy for some things if I was still sewing more
commercially.
 
Another question might be how many motors have we gone through on our
machines :)?  The White, which was my main machine during my heaviest
sewing time, is on it's second and could probably do with a third.
 
Catherine
 
*******************************
I have 18 sewing machines in my house; two on loan making a whopping
20. 
Four are treadles, two feather weights, and the earliest dates (that I
can 
tell) from 1919 I may have earlier models but I cannot trace them. This
also 
includes my one lone serger and my industrial machine. My main machine
is my 
Singer Stylist c.1969
 
My favourite is my hand crank portable c.1920 that save my bacon back
the 
year we had Hurricane Juan and we were without power for over a week
and I 
had sewing to do; sad irons, a hand crank and oil lamp...somehow
fitting in 
my c1870s house
 
Sarah Paterson
Great Village, NS
Canada
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
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I only have a simple Janome sewing machine and a basic Janome over
locker (Serger), they do me well. I imagine as my skills increase I
will look to better machines, but it would be logical to keep the
existing ones as back ups.


Sidney


On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 10:03 AM, Dianne <goofy4@comcast.net> wrote:
> I, for one, collect them.  I specialize in old treadles and
>  handcranks.  I make mine fully functional. I have found the old
>  Singers, prior to the 600 series, can sew through almost anything
>  without a problem. >>
>
>  Amen! My little Singer 99K is a gorgeous machine. The two Brother machines
>  (one sewing, one embroidery only) are functional, and look it. They create
>  beautiful things, but they aren't beautiful things in and of themselves.
>
>  Of course, I still want a treadle machine, and a handcrank, and a
>  Featherweight, and ooh of course that shiny Duetta with the HUGE embroidery
>  field. :-)
>
>  Dianne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages
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Off the top of my head, I've read about the use of rags, sea sponges, 
and corks. I've also read references of women letting it run down their 
legs, but that would be both disgusting and dangerous.

My personal theory is that women with poor nutrition or those of 
especially athletic bodies would have little to no menstrual cycle. I 
base this on studies done on modern day women with extremely low body 
fat and their reduced or non-existent cycles.

I don't have much time now, but will find my references and point you to 
them as soon as I can.

Connie

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if so.
>
> But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use something like pants???)?
>
> I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after all (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)
>
> I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I rather post here and ask:-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
>   

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I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!

For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, there's 
the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/

-- cv
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> My new
> computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler,
> but shreds silk thread.

When I had that problem with my Viking I found out it was the needle,
not the machine, that was shredding the thread.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages
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There was a great discussion on this topic in January of 2006.

While medieval medical literature doesn't necessarily reflect true life one gets the impression that medieval people were fanatically interested in periods. Not having one meant that your humors were out of balance and there are lots of herbal remedies to bring on the menses. (Now, some of these amount to early chemical abortions but that's another topic entirely.) 

It's possibly a medieval woman did not greet her period with the desire to hide it that modern marketing has instilled in many of us. It was part of life and meant that you were healthy. 

However, I suspect flauting it wasn't good either and I have a completly unsubstantiated theory the part of the humilation of being publicly stripped to one's shift showed off some old blood stains. 

Another aspect I intend to investigate someday is how much flow a woman who is not surrounded by so many artificial hormores has. There are so many phyoestrogeons in the environment that I'm not sure we can take modern experience as typical.

Cheers,
Mary Haselbauer



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The museum appears to have been closed.


On May 12, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!
>
> For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, 
> there's
> the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/
>
> -- cv
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I have five, in total. I have two Viking basic machines, a Daisy and a 310 
or 315. That one is over at the Consort's house for the sewing of his 
armor. I also have a Kenmore quilter's machine that was a gift from my 
mother*, her old avocado green metal Kenmore, with table, and an ancient 
electric with the brand name Stradivaro that scares me--it's very fast, 
and I don't think it understands "can't sew through X". And I'm trying to 
acquire a treadle machine and cabinet from a friend. Not sure where I'm 
going to put that one, though, the sewing room is kind of full at the 
moment.

Jen/pixel/Margaret

*I'd said to my sister that I needed a sewing machine to sew tents, 
because my first Kenmore (has since been sold to a friend) really wasn't 
up to it. Then I bought the first Viking. At Xmas, Mom hands me a very 
large box and says "You can open that and then I have to kill you." And 
she was very very confused when she offered to return the quilter's 
machine and I wrapped myself around it. "How many sewing machines do you 
*have*, now?" "Only three..." "But you won't use them all..." "Yes I 
will."
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Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

Thanks

Serena Dyer
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> Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/    
The Shoe Catalog
Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog has 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes and colors for men, women and children.
THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each catalog to:

AMAZON DRYGOODS
411 Brady Street
Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
Phone: 1-800-798-7979
info@amazondrygoods.com

Happy sewing,
    Deb

The Mantua-Maker
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The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me a
3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their catalog
and improved their customer service.

YMMV,
LynnD

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker <
deb@mantua-maker.com> wrote:

> > Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
> Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!
>
> I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
> reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
> The Shoe Catalog
> Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
> industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog has
> 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes and
> colors for men, women and children.
> THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00
>
> To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
> catalog to:
>
> AMAZON DRYGOODS
> 411 Brady Street
> Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
> Phone: 1-800-798-7979
> info@amazondrygoods.com
>
> Happy sewing,
>    Deb
>
> The Mantua-Maker
> www.mantua-maker.com
>  _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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JoAnn Peterson, owner of Laughing Moon Mercantile Patterns, has a new store
in Old Sacramento, Calif. JoAnn caters to Gold Rush/Civil War
reenactors. She has lots of great shoes/boots in her store, one or two of
which are 1830s-40s appropriate. I don't know where she gets her shoes, but
check out her website.

http://www.saccitydrygoods.com/category-s/31.htm

LynnD

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 10:34 AM, Serena Dyer <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
> Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum: 
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you period 
shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


> The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me 
> a
> 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
> that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their 
> catalog
> and improved their customer service.
>
> YMMV,
> LynnD
>
> On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker <
> deb@mantua-maker.com> wrote:
>
>> > Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
>> Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!
>>
>> I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
>> reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
>> The Shoe Catalog
>> Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
>> industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog 
>> has
>> 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes 
>> and
>> colors for men, women and children.
>> THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00
>>
>> To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
>> catalog to:
>>
>> AMAZON DRYGOODS
>> 411 Brady Street
>> Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
>> Phone: 1-800-798-7979
>> info@amazondrygoods.com
>>
>> Happy sewing,
>>    Deb
>>
>> The Mantua-Maker
>> www.mantua-maker.com
>>  _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:26:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes
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Sarah Juniper is a DREAM!!!
YEars and YEARS ago...let me stt is ust have beenabout 15 or so yers ago I was in England and ran into this woman at a Cavalier reenactment. I ordered shoes from her tht I have literally worn out...they were not !8hundreds shoes but she can do anything...and they hold up like noboies business and are of course repairable if they wear out...its just that 15 years welll..when you wear them at least 200 days a year....is gonna wear ANYTHING out completely..I highly recomend her nomatter what the price is now...she is a genius.!
Bambi

Gilbert <tgilbert737@roadrunner.com> wrote: I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum: 
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you period 
shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


> The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me 
> a
> 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
> that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their 
> catalog
> and improved their customer service.
>
> YMMV,
> LynnD
>
> On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker <
> deb@mantua-maker.com> wrote:
>
>> > Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
>> Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!
>>
>> I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
>> reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
>> The Shoe Catalog
>> Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
>> industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog 
>> has
>> 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes 
>> and
>> colors for men, women and children.
>> THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00
>>
>> To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
>> catalog to:
>>
>> AMAZON DRYGOODS
>> 411 Brady Street
>> Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
>> Phone: 1-800-798-7979
>> info@amazondrygoods.com
>>
>> Happy sewing,
>>    Deb
>>
>> The Mantua-Maker
>> www.mantua-maker.com
>>  _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride!!!!
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
       
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
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Amazon buys all their shoes from Annello & Davide in London and I at 
least have bought direct from Annello & Davide.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lynn Downward wrote:
> The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me a
> 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
> that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their catalog
> and improved their customer service.
> 
> YMMV,
> LynnD
> 
>
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Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:49:32 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes
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I also have a pair of shoes by Sarah Juniper (1570s), and I can't say  
enough good things about them.  She will make them as accurate as you  
wish, and you have never worn anything so comfortable.  Two caveats:   
as far as I know, she does not have email, and she does not take  
credit cards.  For those of us across the pond, it makes doing  
business less convenient, but it is SO worth it.

Melanie Schuessler


On May 12, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Gilbert wrote:

> I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum:
> http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you  
> period
> shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...
>
> Marjorie
>
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On Tuesday 06 May 2008 8:52:26 pm Ann Catelli wrote:
> My copy of the title journal arrived in my hands today, on the east coast
> of the US.  It was ordered directly from Boydell & Brewster.
>
> Ann in CT
> only two papers read so far
> more treats to come :)

I ordered my copy from Boydell & Brewer also.  It arrived Friday, but I've 
only read one of the papers so far.  Great stuff!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Cambridge History of Western Textiles - special offer
	from DBBC
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Some of us have said before what an evil tempter Ian Stevens of David Brown 
Book Company (Oxbow Books' American affiliate) can be.

This time he's outdone himself.  Heaven knows *I'm* tempted.  Look!

----------  Forwarded Message  ----------

Subject: Cambridge History of Western Textiles - special offer from DBBC
Date: Monday 12 May 2008
From: Ian Stevens <ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com>
To: cathy@thyrsus.com


Dear Catherine Raymond,


We have managed to secure some copies of "The Cambridge History of Western 
Textiles" to sell at the amazing price of $99.98. This two-volume set usually 
sells for $460.00.

Order before the end of May to get that price. After that, the price is very 
likely to increase.

Simply follow the link below to place your order securely online. Copies will 
be with us in the next week or so and we will bill and ship your orders as 
soon as we can thereafter.

With regards,

Ian Stevens
The David Brown Book Company
Tel_ 1-800-791-9354
	

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-------------------------------------------------------

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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I think you may have happened upon a server error or somesuch; it was 
working fine this morning and is likewise this evening.

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> The museum appears to have been closed.
>
>
> On May 12, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>
>   
>> I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!
>>
>> For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, 
>> there's
>> the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/
>>     

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Subject: [h-cost] Norris' Medieval Costume and Fashion
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Hello all,

Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am 
wondering how good his TEXT is.  I've heard so many of you mention 
this as one of the least desirable of costuming books, but no one 
says why.  Some of that is obvious, just looking at the pictures, but 
I wanted to get your opinions.  The date of origin is a big one, I'm 
sure, but what else?

Thanks,
Genie
Who would rather look at Chinese costume more than European these days.

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I have his Tudor volume rather than the Medieval one, but the text in  
the Tudor volume is entirely suspect.  Just as in his drawings, in  
his text there are some good bits of information and some that are  
almost entirely invented.  Since he doesn't cite anything, the only  
way you'll know the difference is to check up on him with other sources.

My favorite example from the Tudor book is a lovely drawing of Queen  
Elizabeth riding a horse in a black gown.  When I first saw it, I  
thought, "Neat!  I don't recognize that portrait--I wonder where it  
is..."  since he often redraws from 16th-century images.  Looking in  
the text, however, I found that he had invented the picture based on  
a short description from a 16th-century text.  He included the  
description in full.  Looking at the date on the description and the  
picture, I found that he hadn't really paid attention to what was  
fashionable in that year when he was drawing.  Much later, I found  
the actual description in the original source and realized that not  
only had he invented the picture on rather scanty evidence (and done  
a fairly poor job of it), he had embellished the description in his  
text as well, adding in details not found in the original!

I have also found the originals of some of his redrawings, and he is  
very prone to "correcting" the images so they'll be in line with his  
own sense of current fashion, including adding a cute little bow on  
top of a french hood in one redrawing of a memorial brass.

I don't trust him an inch.

Melanie Schuessler


On May 12, 2008, at 9:28 PM, Genie Barrett wrote:

> Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am
> wondering how good his TEXT is.  I've heard so many of you mention
> this as one of the least desirable of costuming books, but no one
> says why.
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Genie Barrett wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am 
> wondering how good his TEXT is.  I've heard so many of you mention 
> this as one of the least desirable of costuming books, but no one 
> says why.  Some of that is obvious, just looking at the pictures, but 
> I wanted to get your opinions.  The date of origin is a big one, I'm 
> sure, but what else?
The date is the root of most of the issues.  Norris was doing quite a 
good job for his day, and is actually better than some of the later 
costume texts, but far better things have been published since his time. 
The issues with redrawing, reinterpreting, and not really understanding 
what he's looking at have been mentioned.  He also perpetuates earlier 
mistakes.  A lot of this stems from earlier attitudes about costuming, 
which tried to interpret images and descriptions of clothing in forms 
familiar to the reader of that time, rather than according to sound 
historical research and analysis.

Susan

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I've heard that even today, in countries where women work hard and/or have
poor nutrition, menopause sets in much earlier, around the 30's. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:01 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

Hi, 

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the
archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if
so. 

But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval
women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use
something like pants???)? 

I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different
from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after
all (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the
way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the
middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I
rather post here and ask:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana
 
       
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Just back from a particularly exhilarating (and exhausting) Kalamazoo and 
catching up on a huge pile of e-mails.

One correspondent writes to me that she needs to make an Elizabethan coif for 
an SCA peerage ceremony. No idea yet if it's for male or female, but I'm 
guessing female. She asks if I can point her to patterns or instructions. This 
is out of my area -- can anyone offer a suggestion? If there's a web resource 
somewhere that would be great. Thanks!

--Robin

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What part of the era? I wear plain cheeks & ears over a forehead cloth, 
c1570 -  or do they want a blackwork worked quoife - or a pattern for the 
polychromatic? (Both of which I cannot yet prove was worn in public)

Drea has a great gallery of original embroidered quoifes.  I also might know 
who the quoife may be for, if you will share the name of the correspondant 
as I know of an up-coming elevation where this may apply.

Sarah Paterson
aka
Bess Darnley, OL,  in the SCA
----- Original Message ----- 

> Just back from a particularly exhilarating (and exhausting) Kalamazoo and
> catching up on a huge pile of e-mails.
>
> One correspondent writes to me that she needs to make an Elizabethan coif 
> for
> an SCA peerage ceremony. No idea yet if it's for male or female, but I'm
> guessing female. She asks if I can point her to patterns or instructions. 
> This
> is out of my area -- can anyone offer a suggestion? If there's a web 
> resource
> somewhere that would be great. Thanks!
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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The book "The Tudor Tailor" has scale patterns for coifs, both for men
and women. There are also patterns and detailed instructions for English
and French hoods, bongraces, caps and more.

Hope this helps.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:35 AM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs

Just back from a particularly exhilarating (and exhausting) Kalamazoo
and 
catching up on a huge pile of e-mails.

One correspondent writes to me that she needs to make an Elizabethan
coif for 
an SCA peerage ceremony. No idea yet if it's for male or female, but I'm

guessing female. She asks if I can point her to patterns or
instructions. This 
is out of my area -- can anyone offer a suggestion? If there's a web
resource 
somewhere that would be great. Thanks!

--Robin

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs
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At 15:15 13/05/2008, you wrote:
>The book "The Tudor Tailor" has scale patterns for coifs, both for men
>and women. There are also patterns and detailed instructions for English
>and French hoods, bongraces, caps and more.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Cindy Abel

Do make toiles of the coif patterns in the Tudor Tailor. I, who 
should have known better, didn't and the coif I made looked like it 
had been made for a rather malnourished child. But then I have a 
large head - yeah, no comments thanks!

Suzi

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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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The lovely people at Tudor Tailor seem to be small as well as lovely.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 11:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs

At 15:15 13/05/2008, you wrote:
>The book "The Tudor Tailor" has scale patterns for coifs, both for men
>and women. There are also patterns and detailed instructions for
English
>and French hoods, bongraces, caps and more.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Cindy Abel

Do make toiles of the coif patterns in the Tudor Tailor. I, who 
should have known better, didn't and the coif I made looked like it 
had been made for a rather malnourished child. But then I have a 
large head - yeah, no comments thanks!

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs
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At 16:40 13/05/2008, you wrote:
>The lovely people at Tudor Tailor seem to be small as well as lovely.
>
>Patty

Oh, indeed they are - very slender ladies, both Jane and Ninya!

>t 15:15 13/05/2008, you wrote:
> >The book "The Tudor Tailor" has scale patterns for coifs, both for men
> >and women. There are also patterns and detailed instructions for
>English
> >and French hoods, bongraces, caps and more.
> >
> >Hope this helps.
> >
> >Cindy Abel
>
>Do make toiles of the coif patterns in the Tudor Tailor. I, who
>should have known better, didn't and the coif I made looked like it
>had been made for a rather malnourished child. But then I have a
>large head - yeah, no comments thanks!
>
>Suzi
>
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Thanks everyone for your help!

I've bought shoes from Sarah Juniper in the past, and love them to pieces, but assumed from her website that this wasn't a period she works with.  I'm sending her an order soon anyway, so I'll ask her then.  I've sent an email to Annello and Davide too, I'm in the UK, so those two work best for me anyway!  

Thanks again, and I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
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It's heeeere!!!!
Just diving in--thank you Robin and everyone else!
The Russian flax industry is fascinating.
Pity I have to go out and do chores <G> But it's a great reward for 
finishing them up.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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At 11:35 PM 13/05/2008, you wrote:
>Just back from a particularly exhilarating (and exhausting) Kalamazoo and
>catching up on a huge pile of e-mails.
>
>One correspondent writes to me that she needs to make an Elizabethan coif for
>an SCA peerage ceremony. No idea yet if it's for male or female, but I'm
>guessing female. She asks if I can point her to patterns or 
>instructions. This
>is out of my area -- can anyone offer a suggestion? If there's a web resource
>somewhere that would be great. Thanks!
>
>--Robin

Robin,

History, construction and decoration details at: 
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html

Cheers,
Jane


------------------------------------
Jane Stockton - jane_stockton@webcon.net.au
Barony of Mordenvale, Kingdom of Lochac

In Prayse of the Needle - http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/ (personal website)
Historical Needlework Resources - http://medieval.webcon.net.au/ 
(resource website)
The Needles' Excellency - http://laren.blogspot.com/ (blog)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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Lurker here. I own 3 knitting machines: a regular Studio with ribbing  
attachment, a regular Studio with no ribber, and a chunky Studio. I haven't used  
them much lately but when my kids were small I was always making them hats,  
scarves, lined mittens, and sweaters. I used to be in craft fairs and made  
pretty good money just selling lined mittens and slippers. You don't have to  know 
how to hand knit to use a machine because the terminology is complete  
different.
 
I also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I haven't  
done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I could make stockings on 
it  that re enactors could use.
 
Chris P.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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How much is it like using a weaving loom?

I love knitted sweaters, I used to crochet, but for some reason I just 
have never wanted to knit by hand.

Fran

ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:
> Lurker here. I own 3 knitting machines: a regular Studio with ribbing  
> attachment, a regular Studio with no ribber, and a chunky Studio. I haven't used  
> them much lately but when my kids were small I was always making them hats,  
> scarves, lined mittens, and sweaters. I used to be in craft fairs and made  
> pretty good money just selling lined mittens and slippers. You don't have to  know 
> how to hand knit to use a machine because the terminology is complete  
> different.
>  
> I also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I haven't  
> done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I could make stockings on 
> it  that re enactors could use.
>  
> Chris P.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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At 04:05 14/05/2008, you wrote:
>Lurker here. I own 3 knitting machines: a regular Studio with ribbing
>attachment, a regular Studio with no ribber, and a chunky Studio. I 
>haven't used
>them much lately but when my kids were small I was always making them hats,
>scarves, lined mittens, and sweaters. I used to be in craft fairs and made
>pretty good money just selling lined mittens and slippers. You don't 
>have to  know
>how to hand knit to use a machine because the terminology is complete
>different.
>
>I also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I haven't
>done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I could make stockings on
>it  that re enactors could use.


A lady here in the U. K. makes lovely stockings with a machine. You 
might like to contact her and ask her advice/help. Her name is Sally Pointer.
  http://www.sallypointer.com/

Suzi 

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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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I used to crochet, but I never wanted to knit either. I think, for me,
it's because you get to use so much air (holes on purpose) when you
crochet - it goes faster.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines

How much is it like using a weaving loom?

I love knitted sweaters, I used to crochet, but for some reason I just 
have never wanted to knit by hand.

Fran

ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:
> Lurker here. I own 3 knitting machines: a regular Studio with ribbing

> attachment, a regular Studio with no ribber, and a chunky Studio. I
haven't used  
> them much lately but when my kids were small I was always making them
hats,  
> scarves, lined mittens, and sweaters. I used to be in craft fairs and
made  
> pretty good money just selling lined mittens and slippers. You don't
have to  know 
> how to hand knit to use a machine because the terminology is complete

> different.
>  
> I also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I
haven't  
> done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I could make
stockings on 
> it  that re enactors could use.
>  
> Chris P.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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On May 13, 2008, at 11:05 PM, ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:

> I also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I  
> haven't  done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I  
> could make stockings on it  that re enactors could use.


      It depends on the era and accuracy you're aiming for.  Circular  
knitters were used for stockings in the 19th century.  Prior to that,  
machine-knit stocking were knit flat to shape and seamed up the back  
and along the sides of the foot.  Hand knit stockings were always  
around and knit in the round.

      With a circular sock machine, you could make accurate stockings  
for the 19th and 20th centuries.  For earlier times, you can offer  
colors and materials beyond what is commercially available currently.

      Early knits for stockings, both hand and frame (machine) knit,  
are dense without much stretch.  Latch hook machines make a stretchy  
knit, and even with the tension set very high it's not exactly the same.

      Considering that a most historic costuming means compromise,  
you can provide something that will be useful to earlier reenactors.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking serger (was Overlocker thread)
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Katy,

I have a Viking 905, which I believe is still sold, that I bought at least 10 years ago.  It's pretty basic, but easy to thread and runs like a trooper.  You can do 2, 3 or 4 thread stitches, and it's easy to switch to/from rolled hems, etc.  http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/880.htm  

I finally had it serviced a few months ago, because it was acting up, and got thoroughly scolded by the service technician for not having it regularly serviced or oiling it every 100 hrs.  So, to quote the old Timex ad, it takes a licking and keeps on ticking!

My friend has the 910, which is the exact same machine, but it has a "sewing advisor" display that helps you to set the tension, differential, etc, rather than looking up the settings in the manual.  Not worth the extra money, IMO...

~mary

 
________________________________

The whole difference between construction and creation is exactly this: that a thing constructed can only be loved after it is constructed; but a thing created is loved before it exists.
~ Charles Dickens




>Message: 5
>Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 06:55:24 -0400
>From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
>
>I had a very early Viking home serger, bought about 25 years ago, that
>was always such a pain to thread and the tension would get screwed up
>easily.  I haven't had a working serger for about 10 years now and I
>miss it.  Does anyone have a recent Viking serger, any
>recommendations?
>
>Katy
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On May 14, 2008, at 12:38 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> How much is it like using a weaving loom?

      With either, it depends on how you set it up and your project.   
The motion of a home knitting machine is to slide the carriage back &  
forth, simpler than raising the sheds and throwing a shuttle in weaving.

      It gets complicated with shaping, but that can be done with  
punch cards on a knitting machine.  Patterns can be done with cards  
as well.

      One approach is to go to a store that sells the machines to see  
the features and capabilities of each.  I visited several stores to  
see different brands.

      It sounds like you have an idea of the type of things you want  
to make.  For historic costume, home knitting machines are most  
suitable for 19th ad 20th century items.

      -Carol
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> 
>       With either, it depends on how you set it up and your project.   
> The motion of a home knitting machine is to slide the carriage back &  
> forth, simpler than raising the sheds and throwing a shuttle in weaving.

I know this sounds totally decadent, but are there any home machines 
with electric carriages?

> 
>       It gets complicated with shaping, but that can be done with  
> punch cards on a knitting machine.  Patterns can be done with cards  
> as well.

And will they all take cards?

> 
>       One approach is to go to a store that sells the machines to see  
> the features and capabilities of each.  I visited several stores to  
> see different brands.

I will eventually, but due to time constraints, not right now. I 
probably won't get one till after we move, I need a bigger sewing room 
even for all the stuff I have now, let alone a new sewing machine and a 
knitting machine.

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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Lavolta Press wrote:
>>       With either, it depends on how you set it up and your project.   
>> The motion of a home knitting machine is to slide the carriage back &  
>> forth, simpler than raising the sheds and throwing a shuttle in weaving.
> 
> I know this sounds totally decadent, but are there any home machines 
> with electric carriages?

There are motor drives available for some knitting machines. They 
automate sliding the carriage, but that's it. The motor drive must be 
halted while carriage or needle settings are adjusted manually as 
required by your pattern. I don't know of any home machines that are 
fully automated.

>>       It gets complicated with shaping, but that can be done with  
>> punch cards on a knitting machine.  Patterns can be done with cards  
>> as well.
> 
> And will they all take cards?

Some machines support punch cards. Some machines have computer control. 
Some machines are purely manual.

There's a great demo on youtube 
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T26vuFnQgh4> in three parts that shows 
manual shaping of a sock.

andy

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Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 12:19:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets;
	was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
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Belatedly chiming in (sorry, I'm always a few weeks behind in reading this list).

Here's the webpage the picture of the pocket came from:
http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/pocketsofhistory.html

They don't have a date for the specific pocket being discussed, and their image database won't be online until 2008 (hello? it's 2008 already!), but they do mention that their pockets date from 1700 to 1800. The shape and embroidery on this pocket is very typical of pockets seen in the 1700s (as in, there's dozens of similar extant examples, many of them American). So, I'm afraid it's really unlikely that this pocket dates to the 1600s.

To the person who asked about making a pocket like this one: it's most likely crewelwork, and you can find diagrams of very similar pockets in (and I may need to verify):
"Fitting & Proper" by Sharon Ann Burnston
"Costume Close-Up" by Linda Baumgarten et. al.
"18th Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh
and lots of pretty pictures at:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/pockets/collections/index.html

If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :)



Claudine
(who collects photos of 18th c. pockets :)  )

----- Original Message ----
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 15:40:46 -0500
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I remember reading that it was early 1600s but I am not 100% sure of the
year 20. It was list in either Elizabethan or Jacobean.

De

-----Original Message-----

At 00:02 06/05/2008, you wrote:
>I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said
>that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s.
>Presently I can not find the site.

The embroidery seems very 18th century to me - are you sure it was
1620? I have looked at a large number of pockets, and pictures of,
for a small project I am working on, and have never seen one dated
that early. Some of the MoL items are not always dated accurately, or
with a very wide range of dates, as I have found while working there,
as a volunteer.

Suzi

>De
>
*****************************************

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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The computer control sounds cool.

Earlier I was looking at some bottom of the line machines where you had 
to get a machine for either fine, medium, or thick yarn--but you could 
not use all three on the same machine. Are there any machines that you 
can just adjust to your yarn thickness?

BTW, are there crocheting machines?

Thanks,

Fran



> Some machines support punch cards. Some machines have computer control. 
> Some machines are purely manual.
> 
> There's a great demo on youtube 
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T26vuFnQgh4> in three parts that shows 
> manual shaping of a sock.
> 
> andy
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
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On May 14, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> The computer control sounds cool.
>
> Earlier I was looking at some bottom of the line machines where you  
> had
> to get a machine for either fine, medium, or thick yarn--but you could
> not use all three on the same machine. Are there any machines that you
> can just adjust to your yarn thickness?

Carol K appears to have far greater knowledge on knitting machines  
than I do, but I can answer this one.

Knitting different size yarns by hand requires different size knitting  
needles. Knitting different size yarns by machine requires different  
size knitting needles, and this necessitates different needle spacing.  
The only way to "adjust" to different size needles would be to replace  
the whole needle bed, and that's the largest part of the machine.

Even the high-end machines have these limitations.

It is possible to run thicker yarns on machines designed for thinner  
yarns if the needles allow, but the needle spacing can still be an  
issue. One of the tricks is to move alternating needles into the "non- 
working" position to create extra space, but you're effectively  
halving the size of your machine when you do this, and probably  
wonking up the punch card or computer-controlled patterns.

andy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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Pity, I thought the miracles of computerization might now allow sliding 
in a new unit.  Still, the computer controls instead of punch cards are 
good to know about.

Fran

Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> On May 14, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>> The computer control sounds cool.
>>
>> Earlier I was looking at some bottom of the line machines where you  
>> had
>> to get a machine for either fine, medium, or thick yarn--but you could
>> not use all three on the same machine. Are there any machines that you
>> can just adjust to your yarn thickness?
> 
> Carol K appears to have far greater knowledge on knitting machines  
> than I do, but I can answer this one.
> 
> Knitting different size yarns by hand requires different size knitting  
> needles. Knitting different size yarns by machine requires different  
> size knitting needles, and this necessitates different needle spacing.  
> The only way to "adjust" to different size needles would be to replace  
> the whole needle bed, and that's the largest part of the machine.
> 
> Even the high-end machines have these limitations.
> 
> It is possible to run thicker yarns on machines designed for thinner  
> yarns if the needles allow, but the needle spacing can still be an  
> issue. One of the tricks is to move alternating needles into the "non- 
> working" position to create extra space, but you're effectively  
> halving the size of your machine when you do this, and probably  
> wonking up the punch card or computer-controlled patterns.
> 
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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On May 14, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> Pity, I thought the miracles of computerization might now allow  
> sliding
> in a new unit.  Still, the computer controls instead of punch cards  
> are
> good to know about.

Alas, this is a question of precision machining, not of computer  
control.

andy
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On May 14, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> Pity, I thought the miracles of computerization might now allow  
> sliding
> in a new unit.  Still, the computer controls instead of punch cards  
> are
> good to know about.

Alas, this is a question of precision machining, not of computer  
control.

andy
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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And here I thought precision machining had improved over the years too.

Fran

Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> On May 14, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>> Pity, I thought the miracles of computerization might now allow  
>> sliding
>> in a new unit.  Still, the computer controls instead of punch cards  
>> are
>> good to know about.
> 
> Alas, this is a question of precision machining, not of computer  
> control.
> 
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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On May 14, 2008, at 1:34 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> And here I thought precision machining had improved over the years  
> too.

Oh, it has, but that doesn't change the design of a knitting machine  
bed.

A modern knitting machine bed is usually a long chunk of aluminum with  
small carefully spaced machined channels in which the needles lie.  
It's a simple and effective design, with very tight tolerances. The  
practicality of engineering a bed with variable-depth and variable- 
width channels so hundreds of needles can be replaced with a different  
number of different-sized needles that require different spacing in  
the same area is absurd.

andy
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets;
	was:	Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
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Quoting cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com:

>
> If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly   
> could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have   
> spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :)
>

There are pockets in 16th C. Italian Paintings -- there just aren't  
any extant pockets that I know of -- although, niggling in the back of  
my brain is an extant pocket that dates from pre-1650.

A lady in the SCA has her research (and the snippets from a couple of  
the paintings) here
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's%20Soccaccia.html

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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It's been over 25 years since I looked at knitting machines, so I can 
hardly be expected to know everything about modern ones. I have seen 
that the comparatively simple knitting looms that were around when I 
looked 25 years ago are still available. And actually, the prices are so 
low, it's not that expensive to buy one each for fine, medium, and thick 
yarn. But y'know, I love equipment, and I want the latest in knitting 
machines. They seem to be rather out of fashion. There was a time when 
everybody had to have a sewing machine and a knitting machine, then they 
had to have a sewing machine and a serger, now they have to have an 
embroidery sewing machine.

For some reason, when I was a kid and my mother introduced me to crochet 
and knitting, I liked crochet and I disliked knitting. I couldn't stand 
counting stitches when knitting; but then I was pretty young.

Just the same I'd be interested in a home crocheting loom if there is 
such a thing. I spent five minutes on the net, and what I found is (a) 
instructions for doing a crochet stitch on a knitting machine and (b) 
simple devices for hairpin crochet--I had one of those when I was a kid too.

Fran


> 
> A modern knitting machine bed is usually a long chunk of aluminum with  
> small carefully spaced machined channels in which the needles lie.  
> It's a simple and effective design, with very tight tolerances. The  
> practicality of engineering a bed with variable-depth and variable- 
> width channels so hundreds of needles can be replaced with a different  
> number of different-sized needles that require different spacing in  
> the same area is absurd.
> 
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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On May 14, 2008, at 1:55 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> But y'know, I love equipment, and I want the latest in knitting
> machines. They seem to be rather out of fashion. There was a time when
> everybody had to have a sewing machine and a knitting machine, then  
> they
> had to have a sewing machine and a serger, now they have to have an
> embroidery sewing machine.

Unfortunately, your impression seems to be about right. Both Passap  
(the most advanced European manufacturer) and Brother (the biggest  
Japanese manufacturer) no longer produce knitting machines.

I'm not sure if it's that knitting machines don't lend themselves to  
multi-purpose designs, or if it's that they're pretty much useless  
without at least basic knowledge of hand-knitting. Then again, it  
could just be that serious knitting machines are large, too large for  
apartment-dwellers.

andy
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 20:56:57 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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On May 14, 2008, at 5:21 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> Unfortunately, your impression seems to be about right. Both Passap  
> (the most advanced European manufacturer) and Brother (the biggest  
> Japanese manufacturer) no longer produce knitting machines.

      Then maybe secondhand machines would be available.  I guess the  
idea of seeing machines at a shop is less likely, though.

> I'm not sure if it's that knitting machines don't lend themselves  
> to multi-purpose designs, or if it's that they're pretty much  
> useless without at least basic knowledge of hand-knitting. Then  
> again, it could just be that serious knitting machines are large,  
> too large for apartment-dwellers.

      Industrial machines would tend to be more limited, each to its  
particular purpose.  Some are much wider than home machines, can make  
very wide fabric or multiple items at once.   Home machines are made  
to be versatile for varied projects.

      Andy covered the details on gauges.  I think most people would  
start with the medium.  Since large-gauge handknitting goes faster,  
bulky knitters are not as crucial to have.  Fine gauge is also a  
specialty type of machine.

      You may well want to have all three gauges, fully computerized  
and automated.  But the medium would be a good start.

      -Carol
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Subject: [h-cost] NESAT X
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The 10th NESAT Conference (Northern European Society for 
Archaeological Textiles) is going on this week (13-18 May 2008) in Copenhagen.

You can download a schedule here 
http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/upload/application/pdf/f51d6748/Program%20May6.pdf

The current anticipated date of publication is Spring 2009.

Wish that I were there!.. but the DISTAFF sessions last week at the 
Medieval Congress in Kalamazoo were very good also.

Beth 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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>       Industrial machines would tend to be more limited, each to its  
> particular purpose.  Some are much wider than home machines, can make  
> very wide fabric or multiple items at once.   Home machines are made  
> to be versatile for varied projects.

Which is a good idea.

> 
>       Andy covered the details on gauges.  I think most people would  
> start with the medium. 

That's what I remember people starting with when I looked into this before.

  Since large-gauge handknitting goes faster,
> bulky knitters are not as crucial to have.  Fine gauge is also a  
> specialty type of machine.

I thought fine gauge might be nice for lacey knits.

I suppose I should consider taking up hand knitting, but I've got this 
childhood block about it. I suppose counting stitches is not so bad if 
you're an adult. I suppose I was also influenced by my mother's strong 
preference for crocheting over knitting.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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>
> I suppose I should consider taking up hand knitting, but I've got this
> childhood block about it. I suppose counting stitches is not so bad if
> you're an adult. I suppose I was also influenced by my mother's strong
> preference for crocheting over knitting.
>

I've also found that there are those who love crochet and hate
knitting, and other that love knitting and hate crochet.

I can do both, but I'd rather be knitting.

It's kind of like those that embroider, some like charted
designs/techniques and others that prefer free form work.

alex
-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've always seen crocheting as more freeform.

Fran

Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>> I suppose I should consider taking up hand knitting, but I've got this
>> childhood block about it. I suppose counting stitches is not so bad if
>> you're an adult. I suppose I was also influenced by my mother's strong
>> preference for crocheting over knitting.
>>
> 
> I've also found that there are those who love crochet and hate
> knitting, and other that love knitting and hate crochet.
> 
> I can do both, but I'd rather be knitting.
> 
> It's kind of like those that embroider, some like charted
> designs/techniques and others that prefer free form work.
> 
> alex
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In a message dated 5/13/2008 11:38:47 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

How much  is it like using a weaving loom?

I love knitted sweaters, I used to  crochet, but for some reason I just 
have never wanted to knit by  hand.

Fran


I don't know if anyone has answered this yet but I don't think it's  anything 
like a weaving loom. You have to manually increase and decrease and  bind 
off, and if you're using the ribbing attachment you have to manually  transfer 
the stitches over to it. Other than that it's just a matter of moving  the 
carriage back and forth. If you want a design, you just put a punch card in,  add 
the other color you want, then just go back and forth with the carriage. I  
also have a lace attachment but I've never tried using it. You still have to sew  
the pieces together by hand or you could use a serger. I didn't have a serger 
at  the time I was using my knitting machine a lot. There is a special 
carriage or  machine you can buy to connect the pieces. I actually have an old one I 
bought  somewhere but never tried it out.
 
Chris



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In a message dated 5/14/2008 2:15:41 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

A lady  here in the U. K. makes lovely stockings with a machine. You 
might like to  contact her and ask her advice/help. Her name is Sally Pointer.
http://www.sallypointer.com/

Suzi 


Thanks a lot for the info!  I'll check into it.
 
Chris P.



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I should think I could even use my straight knitting machines to make the  
stockings if I wanted a seam up the back. And even if you knit them by hand  
you're going to have some give because of the nature of the stitches. But right  
now I'm more concerned about sewing myself a couple more outfits than making  
stockings for other people. It's really hard trying to get some sewing done 
with  a retired husband around. Every time I want to go in my sewing room, he 
thinks  of some other work I should be doing instead.
 
Chris P.
 

On May 13, 2008, at 11:05 PM, ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:

> I  also own a very old stocking knitting machine that is circular. I  
>  haven't  done anything with that yet. I am curious to see if I   
> could make stockings on it  that re enactors could  use.


It depends on the era and accuracy you're  aiming for.  Circular  
knitters were used for stockings in the  19th century.  Prior to that,  
machine-knit stocking were knit  flat to shape and seamed up the back  
and along the sides of the  foot.  Hand knit stockings were always  
around and knit in the  round.

With a circular sock machine, you could make  accurate stockings  
for the 19th and 20th centuries.  For earlier  times, you can offer  
colors and materials beyond what is commercially  available currently.

Early knits for stockings, both  hand and frame (machine) knit,  
are dense without much stretch.   Latch hook machines make a stretchy  
knit, and even with the tension  set very high it's not exactly the same.

Considering  that a most historic costuming means compromise,  
you can provide  something that will be useful to earlier reenactors.

-Carol



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> 
> I don't know if anyone has answered this yet but I don't think it's  anything 
> like a weaving loom. You have to manually increase and decrease and  bind 
> off, and if you're using the ribbing attachment you have to manually  transfer 
> the stitches over to it. Other than that it's just a matter of moving  the 
> carriage back and forth. If you want a design, you just put a punch card in,  add 
> the other color you want, then just go back and forth with the carriage. I  
> also have a lace attachment but I've never tried using it. You still have to sew  
> the pieces together by hand or you could use a serger. I didn't have a serger 
> at  the time I was using my knitting machine a lot. There is a special 
> carriage or  machine you can buy to connect the pieces. I actually have an old one I 
> bought  somewhere but never tried it out.
>

OK, it sounds like fun.

Thanks,

Fran
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You can still find knitting machines on ebay. Just make sure you type in  
"knitting machine", not the plural. Brother and Studio machines are the more  
common ones and very much the same in the way they look and how you use  them. 
Passap is the more expensive one and the carriage and some of  the terminology 
is a bit different. I bought the Studios because there was a  store in town 
that handled them at the time, but if one was available I would  have rather gone 
for the Brother machines. I do love my Studio machines  though.
 
Chris P. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/14/2008 7:57:55 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

On May  14, 2008, at 5:21 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> Unfortunately, your  impression seems to be about right. Both Passap  
> (the most  advanced European manufacturer) and Brother (the biggest  
>  Japanese manufacturer) no longer produce knitting machines.

Then maybe secondhand machines would be available.  I guess  the  
idea of seeing machines at a shop is less likely,  though.

> I'm not sure if it's that knitting machines don't lend  themselves  
> to multi-purpose designs, or if it's that they're  pretty much  
> useless without at least basic knowledge of  hand-knitting. Then  
> again, it could just be that serious  knitting machines are large,  
> too large for  apartment-dwellers.

Industrial machines would tend  to be more limited, each to its  
particular purpose.  Some are  much wider than home machines, can make  
very wide fabric or multiple  items at once.   Home machines are made  
to be versatile  for varied projects.

Andy covered the details on  gauges.  I think most people would  
start with the medium.   Since large-gauge handknitting goes faster,  
bulky knitters are not  as crucial to have.  Fine gauge is also a  
specialty type of  machine.

You may well want to have all three  gauges, fully computerized  
and automated.  But the medium would  be a good start.

-Carol


 



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So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when 
buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do 
different things?

Suzi - wasting time 'cos I hate the current job!




Suzi, Suzi, Suzi

Some of us like to have different machines for different projects.  Some of
us collect them for their beauty.  Some of us just can't decide which
machine is best.  I just think that they are really cool!

Anne  (Singer treadle, 2 hand crank machines, a Featherweight, my mother's
old Slant-O-Matic,  my Singer Fashion machine bought 40 years ago, my newr
Singer with free arm and stretch stitch capability and my battery operated
lock stitch machine for camping)



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On May 14, 2008, at 9:49 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> I thought fine gauge might be nice for lacey knits.

      Or use thin yarn on a medium gauge machine.

> I suppose I should consider taking up hand knitting, but I've got  
> this childhood block about it. I suppose counting stitches is not  
> so bad if you're an adult. I suppose I was also influenced by my  
> mother's strong preference for crocheting over knitting.

      At least try scarves as a way to learn different stitches.  If  
you hate counting stitches, put a marker every 5 stitches and then  
you will see quickly if you are missing one.  Eventually you will get  
a feel for it and not have to count very much at all.

      -Carol
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On May 14, 2008, at 10:21 PM, ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:
> I should think I could even use my straight knitting machines to  
> make the stockings if I wanted a seam up the back. And even if you  
> knit them by hand  you're going to have some give because of the  
> nature of the stitches.

      You would think so, but when examining originals I can see that  
18th century handknits are done tighter and firmer than is done by  
modern handknitters.  Try knitting with a yarn that is the same  
thickness as your needles and you will be closer to it.

      But again, it all depends on whether you are aiming for exact  
repros, or something that improves on most of what is available and  
people will want.

> But right now I'm more concerned about sewing myself a couple more  
> outfits than making stockings for other people. It's really hard  
> trying to get some sewing done with a retired husband around. Every  
> time I want to go in my sewing room, he thinks  of some other work  
> I should be doing instead.

      If he's recently retired, sounds like he needs to find his own  
work he should be doing.  I take it he was in management?  :-D  I  
hate to suggest he might like the knitting machines, because then you  
still might not get to work with them yourself.

      -Carol
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> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when  
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do  
> different things?

      Tee hee - sewing machines are like cars, and it's all a matter  
of how you buy them.  Some people upgrade every few years, others get  
something for it's reliability and use it for decades.

      A few years back I had my machine serviced (cleaned & oiled).   
The rather opinionated repairman said he first learned on that  
machine, and exclaimed that he wouldn't give me $5 on a trade-in.  I  
said why would I get rid of a perfectly good machine for only $5?

      There are other machines that are are kept because they are  
sentimental, perhaps inherited.

      -Carol
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Anne Moeller wrote:
> Some of us like to have different machines for different projects.  Some of
> us collect them for their beauty.  Some of us just can't decide which
> machine is best.  I just think that they are really cool!

I buy machines because they're good at something that my other machines 
aren't. I very rarely think in terms of replacing machines, because at 
this point I've developed a collection of machines, each of which is the 
best at a particular technique and which I wouldn't consider 
substituting with something else.

andy

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This lady's blog researches internet links to various subjects of interest 
to textile people.  Here are documents she found on Project Gutenberg - 
dates between 1850 and 1920.
http://creativityjourney.blogspot.com/2008/03/textile-related-publications-1846-1921.html

Janet


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So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more
silk thread?
Just Curious! Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:22 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

> My new
> computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler,
> but shreds silk thread.

When I had that problem with my Viking I found out it was the needle,
not the machine, that was shredding the thread.
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi all,
I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale?
To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees.
Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think:
Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated.
Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions.

Bjarne
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It does look like a small French Farthingale or perhaps just a padded  
roll....there being a very small [or none at all] bit of bulk at the CF [the  strip 
of trim there seems to have a bit of a highlight at the point of the  bodice]
 
It is my understanding that at this point in time you sometimes see a  
Spanish Farthingale under a fuller pleated skirt....sometimes with a pad at the  
top. The angle at the waist looks too severe to be just the pleats of the  skirt 
holding it out. But the skirt definitely has a hint of that conical shape  you 
get with a Spanish farthingale.



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Because the top of this is rounded, rather than flat, I'd go with a
padded roll/cushion kind of thing.

The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist
than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum
roll.  Maybe a transtional style?

The shape I'd go with would be a "c" shape for the waist with a larger
"C" for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6" inches
(15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back.  Thickness of the pad would
be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as
required.

hope this helps
alex

On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files!
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
> Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale?
> To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees.
> Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think:
> Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated.
> Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions.
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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WEll actually ...do you remember having the spool with the nails and the yarn got looped over the nail and then you wrapped again and...well if you ever had one...this is making sense...a knitting "loom" is sort of like that concept with the lay the yarn out nd loops come through and ..gosh im not helping am I?
but they come in a few different forms...
Bambi

ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:  
In a message dated 5/13/2008 11:38:47 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

How much  is it like using a weaving loom?

I love knitted sweaters, I used to  crochet, but for some reason I just 
have never wanted to knit by  hand.

Fran


I don't know if anyone has answered this yet but I don't think it's  anything 
like a weaving loom. You have to manually increase and decrease and  bind 
off, and if you're using the ribbing attachment you have to manually  transfer 
the stitches over to it. Other than that it's just a matter of moving  the 
carriage back and forth. If you want a design, you just put a punch card in,  add 
the other color you want, then just go back and forth with the carriage. I  
also have a lace attachment but I've never tried using it. You still have to sew  
the pieces together by hand or you could use a serger. I didn't have a serger 
at  the time I was using my knitting machine a lot. There is a special 
carriage or  machine you can buy to connect the pieces. I actually have an old one I 
bought  somewhere but never tried it out.
 
Chris



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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride!!!!
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
       
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Hi,
Thanks Alexandria,
In patterns of Fashion vol. 1560- 1620 there actually are small wheel 
farthingales shown on effigy figures (page 68-69) About the same size these 
are dated 1610 so it would be very close to 1614 in Denmark.
Could off cause also be a roll as you have mentioned, and i am aware that 
the foot of the skirt, suggests a spanish farthingale.
What i wondered was if it would be way two far out to make the dress with 
this pleated frill in the top at (either the roll or the wheel) It was very 
fashionable at this time.
Thanks for your comments!
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.


> Because the top of this is rounded, rather than flat, I'd go with a
> padded roll/cushion kind of thing.
>
> The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist
> than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum
> roll.  Maybe a transtional style?
>
> The shape I'd go with would be a "c" shape for the waist with a larger
> "C" for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6" inches
> (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back.  Thickness of the pad would
> be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as
> required.
>
> hope this helps
> alex
>
> On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make 
>> the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files!
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
>> Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale?
>> To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees.
>> Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i 
>> would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with 
>> this, please let me know what you think:
>> Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated.
>> Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions.
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> -- 
> "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
> Friday..."  ;)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Because of its small size you could probably get away with a French farthingale.  You might want to read Robin's exhausitive expirmentation on that subject.  I personally don't see much "roundness" but as small as it is, based on Robin's work, I'd say you could achieve it that way.  And based on her hand position, I'd say it is flat in front.    I think the flounce is totally appropriate.  This style lasted, in various forms well in to the 1630's in the "Germanic" states.
 
Sg
 
I still have part of my experimentation on farthingales for the Elizaben gown I did for the Phoenix Art Museum if you are interested.  I'd have to send you the individual links as my website is still under massive reconstruction after loosing all the picture links.
 
 



> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:35:26 +0200> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.> > Hi,> Thanks Alexandria,> In patterns of Fashion vol. 1560- 1620 there actually are small wheel > farthingales shown on effigy figures (page 68-69) About the same size these > are dated 1610 so it would be very close to 1614 in Denmark.> Could off cause also be a roll as you have mentioned, and i am aware that > the foot of the skirt, suggests a spanish farthingale.> What i wondered was if it would be way two far out to make the dress with > this pleated frill in the top at (either the roll or the wheel) It was very > fashionable at this time.> Thanks for your comments!> Bjarne> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:02 PM> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.> > > > Because the top of this is rounded,!
  rather than flat, I'd go with a> > padded roll/cushion kind of thing.> >> > The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist> > than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum> > roll. Maybe a transtional style?> >> > The shape I'd go with would be a "c" shape for the waist with a larger> > "C" for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6" inches> > (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back. Thickness of the pad would> > be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as> > required.> >> > hope this helps> > alex> >> > On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:> >> Hi all,> >> I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make > >> the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files!> >> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm> >> Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale?> >> To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 de!
 grees.> >> Its not possible to see because of both hands cover!
 ing the area, but i > >> would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with > >> this, please let me know what you think:> >> Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated.> >> Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions.> >>> >> Bjarne> >> _______________________________________________> >> h-costume mailing list> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> >>> >> >> > -- > > "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you> > know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,> > injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's> > Friday..." ;)> > _______________________________________________> > h-costume mailing list> > h-costume@mail.indra.com> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> > > > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listin!
 fo/h-costume
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction
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>> If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly
>> could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have
>> spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :)

>There are pockets in 16th C. Italian Paintings -- there just aren't...

Yes, Allesandro Allori frescoes show several.  Very practical &
unadorned; they dont appear embroidered, one appears to have some sort
of braid covering a possible seam line.  The pockets are not shown on
principal characters in the frescoes, instead they are on the birthing
room staff, for example.  Look for the gals with their sleeves rolled
up.

>any extant pockets that I know of -- although, niggling in the back of
>my brain is an extant pocket that dates from pre-1650.

Museo del Traje, there is a 1575-1600 pocket in silver? gold? bullion
on formerly white silk. Unknown provenance.  Perhaps someone reads
Spanish better than I do.  Check their website & look for "bolsa" and
"indumentaria hist=F3rica".

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
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> So why do people have so many? Do you not trade in the old one when
> buying a new one, which is what I do? Do you have machines that do
> different things?

Hi Suzi!

Two of them are for historical re-creation events.  I had a great time
at one San Jose Historical Society event sewing up a simple apron with
my 1890s hand cranked "luggable" Amazon machine.  Zillions of boy
scouts, little girls, curious parents had to try it.  I'd let people
crank and I'd sew simple straight seams.  Little boys are speed demons
& like to crank really fast... when they start competing, time to
switch to lecture mode... or distract them by asking if they can
figure out how the machine works.

And of the rest, yes, the sturdy Singer is for leather, kevlar,
canvas; the Viking embroiders; the Babylock overlocks, but the 1940s
machine is just charming. No special or unique features.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Hi,
This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't show up in paintings. 
Lauren
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lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:

> This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't show up in paintings. 

The pocket slits in 14th c. clothing are generally understood as being a way 
to provide access to a belt, fastened over an underdress but below an 
overdress, holding a pouch or other items out of sight. It's not absolutely 
certain, though.

The Herjolfsnes finds date mostly from the very late 14th c., not the 13th. 
Some bits appear to be rather earlier or later but I don't think they're 
relevant to this question.

--Robin
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Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 17:34:16 +0000
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Thanks for the clarification, Robin, and sorry about the century -- I'm obsessed with the, like, three 13th century pieces out of the Greenland finds so I forget that the vast majority of stuff was later. 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> 

> lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote: 
> 
> > This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in some of the 
> Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest underlying pockets 13th 
> century, even though they don't show up in paintings. 
> 
> The pocket slits in 14th c. clothing are generally understood as being a way 
> to provide access to a belt, fastened over an underdress but below an 
> overdress, holding a pouch or other items out of sight. It's not absolutely 
> certain, though. 
> 
> The Herjolfsnes finds date mostly from the very late 14th c., not the 13th. 
> Some bits appear to be rather earlier or later but I don't think they're 
> relevant to this question. 
> 
> --Robin 
> _______________________________________________ 
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Quoting Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>:

>>> If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly
>>> could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have
>>> spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :)
>
>> There are pockets in 16th C. Italian Paintings -- there just aren't...
>
> Yes, Allesandro Allori frescoes show several.  Very practical &
> unadorned; they dont appear embroidered, one appears to have some sort
> of braid covering a possible seam line.  The pockets are not shown on
> principal characters in the frescoes, instead they are on the birthing
> room staff, for example.  Look for the gals with their sleeves rolled
> up.

See, my take on that is they show the existance of pockets.  Theirs  =

are "plain" and "utilitarian" just like their clothing -- compared to  =

those of the gentry and/or nobility.  I think that you could take the  =

differences between the clothing and extrapolate that the pouches  =

would probably be adorned as well.  Look at the shifts, for instance.   =

We have lots of pictorial evidance of working-class women, but none of  =

them have the heavily embroidered shifts/partlets that you see on  =

upper-class women.

>
>> any extant pockets that I know of -- although, niggling in the back of
>> my brain is an extant pocket that dates from pre-1650.
>
> Museo del Traje, there is a 1575-1600 pocket in silver? gold? bullion
> on formerly white silk. Unknown provenance.  Perhaps someone reads
> Spanish better than I do.  Check their website & look for "bolsa" and
> "indumentaria hist=F3rica".

Yeah, that's it.  :-)  I new somebody would know.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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In case anyone had trouble finding the pocket on the Museo Del Traje 
website, here's the enlarged photo:
http://snipurl.com/290d3  [museodeltraje_mcu_es]
And here's the inventory [inventario] number: CE000790

As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I 
make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement:  I mean really, how 
different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?!

Ok, sorry, just having a moment.  Carry on.

-E House
(just bought her first house about 30 minutes ago) 

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At 17:24 15/05/2008, you wrote:
> >> If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly
> >> could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have
> >> spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :)
>
> >There are pockets in 16th C. Italian Paintings -- there just aren't...
>
>Yes, Allesandro Allori frescoes show several.  Very practical &
>unadorned; they dont appear embroidered, one appears to have some sort
>of braid covering a possible seam line.  The pockets are not shown on
>principal characters in the frescoes, instead they are on the birthing
>room staff, for example.  Look for the gals with their sleeves rolled
>up.
>
> >any extant pockets that I know of -- although, niggling in the back of
> >my brain is an extant pocket that dates from pre-1650.
>
>Museo del Traje, there is a 1575-1600 pocket in silver? gold? bullion
>on formerly white silk. Unknown provenance.  Perhaps someone reads
>Spanish better than I do.  Check their website & look for "bolsa" and
>"indumentaria hist=F3rica".

There is a basic English language version of the =

web site, which makes it easier to find things. =

The "Bolso" is in the "Jewellery and Accessories" =

part of the site. (The search thingy is case sensitive.)

Suzi

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        "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 18:16:27 +0000
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Congratulations on buying a house. If I were having a less stupid day I would make some kind of clever observation about your name and home ownership. Anyway, congrats and best wishes!
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com> 

> In case anyone had trouble finding the pocket on the Museo Del Traje 
> website, here's the enlarged photo: 
> http://snipurl.com/290d3 [museodeltraje_mcu_es] 
> And here's the inventory [inventario] number: CE000790 
> 
> As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I 
> make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement: I mean really, how 
> different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?! 
> 
> Ok, sorry, just having a moment. Carry on. 
> 
> -E House 
> (just bought her first house about 30 minutes ago) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Congratulations on buying a house. If I were having a less stupid day I would make some kind of clever observation about your name and home ownership. Anyway, congrats and best wishes!
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com> 

> In case anyone had trouble finding the pocket on the Museo Del Traje 
> website, here's the enlarged photo: 
> http://snipurl.com/290d3 [museodeltraje_mcu_es] 
> And here's the inventory [inventario] number: CE000790 
> 
> As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I 
> make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement: I mean really, how 
> different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?! 
> 
> Ok, sorry, just having a moment. Carry on. 
> 
> -E House 
> (just bought her first house about 30 minutes ago) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Lauren wrote:
>This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in 
>some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest 
>underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't 
>show up in paintings. 

It certainly seems likely that pocket slits are to provide access to *something* hidden under the outer layer of garments, and the common thought is that in at least some cases, that "something" is some sort of self-contained "pocket" or pouch (i.e. not sewn into the seam as is the case with modern pockets)
that is hung from some sort of waist tie or belt. 

What *form* that pouch takes, however, is less certain -- since we generally don't get to see it <g>. The surviving 17th-18th century pockets seem to be flat, closed at the top and with a slit or opened seam partway down one side, giving access to the contents. On the other hand, when we get to see earlier pouches (such as in a painting where someone has lifted up the outer layer to display them) they seem to be simple drawstring bags with the opening at the top. Same principle, different shapes.

I'd certainly consider it very plausible, for a lot of medieval and renaissance contexts, to make one or two of the drawstring type of pouch, hang it/them from a ribbon tied around my waist, and wear them under a top layer with pocket slits. I'd be more doubtful about the plausibility of the later, flat style of hanging pocket in contexts before about 1600. (Though I haven't looked at the Spanish example yet.) OTOH, I can testify that the later style is certainly easier to get one's hand into when you can't see what you're doing.... so practicality might win in that case. 

(I have a farthingaleI made with a two-piece adjustable waistband, and it has side openings from the waist down to about thigh level. I sewed a pair of just this sort of flat pockets into the lower part of the openings, so they hang down *inside* the hoops. There are corresponding pocket slits in the outer gown. Very practical to keep a bulky wallet, keys and checkbook in, and they don't show at all -- but I don't have any historical justification for it, just practicality.)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets;
	was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
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Replying to a couple of emails.

Thank you to whomever found the photo at Museo de Traje (can't find that email at the moment). I'm adding it to my collection. :)

Susan Farmer wrote:
> A lady in the SCA has her research (and the snippets from a couple of  
> the paintings) here
> http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's%20Soccaccia.html

Yes, I saw this link posted earlier. Unfortunately, she says "this is so" without citing where she may have read it or why she came to such a conclusion.

But I love these pictures, because they do predate the 1700s, and the "pouches" do so much resemble 18th century pockets in shape and style. I wanted to see the whole paintings, and fortunately Kimiko uploaded scans:
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/ModaFirenze/index.html
She quoted a bit of what _Moda a Firenze_ had to say about these pocket-pouches, which the above website appears also to be quoting, and when I have a chance I'll have to crack open my copy and read up on it myself.

Exstock wrote:
> As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I 
> make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement:  I mean really, how 
> different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?!

I couldn't agree with you more! I don't know why 18th century tie-on pockets are called "pockets" at all and not pouches, but "pocket" is a documentably period term.

Congratulations on the house. House in the house! Sorry, I had to try. :)



Claudine

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This just hit my brain. Looking at
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat%27s%20Soccaccia.html
the second picture, it looks as if the pocket might have been made from what
was originally the slit in an outer garment for reaching in for the pouch or
pocket. That the triangle pieces may have been the tops of gores.

De



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On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 5:19 AM, Betsy Marshall
<betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote:
> So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more
> silk thread?
> Just Curious! Betsy
>

In my case, new needles. The type, size and brand of needle also makes
a difference. Your dealer should know which ones are better with what
kind of thread.
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>> So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more
>> silk thread?
>> Just Curious! Betsy

Sorry I hit send too soon.

I wanted to say I didn't use silk thread, but I was using very fine
synthetic thread (my brain wants me to say rayon but it might have
been nylon). It kept shredding and being generally very annoying,
until I changed my needle.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com>
> Congratulations on the house. House in the house! Sorry, I had to try. :)


Hee, thanks!  Hey, after almost 11 years of marriage, I still haven't gotten 
over being amused by my own last name.  (And it gets even better--the 
husband just became a PhD candidate, so in 3-5 years I'll be married to Dr. 
House.  One of my favorite TV shows!)

-the future Mrs. Dr. House... 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 3:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


> Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? 
> Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer

I've heard good things about Robert Land 
http://www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com/servlet/StoreFront from the 1860s 
American Civil War crowd. From the little bit of research I've done 1840s 
shoes (at least for women, I haven't looked at mens shoes) were not hugely 
different in style to the 1860s so you might try asking him if he would do 
something a little earlier.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]grapevine.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 15:15:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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	was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
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I'm a bit behind in my emails, but I hope those images
of the loose pockets help. The book doesn't state much
beyond what I posted, tho I haven't read it all yet,
so I may have missed a comment elsewhere in the book.

The earliest I've found comments on 16th century
pockets in general were from the trial of Anne Boleyn,
when one of her supposed lovers Wyatt claimed that
Anne had given him a jewel (or something) from her
pocket. What the pocket looked like or how it was
accessed, I do not know. The story was mentioned
briefly in the book Dress in the Court of King Henry
VIII, but the author did not go into any details on
pockets (much to my surprise).

Doing a quick google search, Jstor has the article
that mentions the Anne Boleyn story, but I don't have
access to those articles.
The Fall of Anne Boleyn
G. W. Bernard
http://www.jstor.org/pss/573258

Also, there is an image of an attached pocket on a
man's jacket skirt in the Mary Rose book (name escapes
me, but the one that has all the extant items in it).

I think I've wandered a different direction on
pockets, so I will end here.

Kimiko


--- cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com wrote:
> But I love these pictures, because they do predate
> the 1700s, and the "pouches" do so much resemble
> 18th century pockets in shape and style. I wanted to
> see the whole paintings, and fortunately Kimiko
> uploaded scans:
>
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/ModaFirenze/index.html
> She quoted a bit of what _Moda a Firenze_ had to say
> about these pocket-pouches, which the above website
> appears also to be quoting, and when I have a chance
> I'll have to crack open my copy and read up on it
> myself.



      
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Hope he's easier to live with than that TV guy...

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Exstock
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 3:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] House, was: Tie on pockets, dating correction

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com>
> Congratulations on the house. House in the house! Sorry, I had to try. :)


Hee, thanks!  Hey, after almost 11 years of marriage, I still haven't gotten

over being amused by my own last name.  (And it gets even better--the 
husband just became a PhD candidate, so in 3-5 years I'll be married to Dr. 
House.  One of my favorite TV shows!)

-the future Mrs. Dr. House... 

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On May 15, 2008, at 10:28 AM, Bambi TBNL wrote:
> Well actually ...do you remember having the spool with the nails  =

> and the yarn got looped over the nail and then you wrapped again  =

> and...well if you ever had one...this is making sense...a knitting  =

> "loom" is sort of like that concept with the lay the yarn out nd  =

> loops come through and ..gosh im not helping am I?
> but they come in a few different forms...
> Bambi


      You're talking about a peg frame, which is not like a modern  =

home knitting machine and not like the knitting frame invented by  =

Reverend Lee in 1589.

      The terms can be confusing =97 Lee's machine was called a  =

knitting frame, a hand frame and a stocking loom among other things.

      There are peg frames from the late 18th century, purse moulds,  =

that were used to make small purses.  Peg frame enthusiasts will  =

sometimes cite the terms for the Lee frame as being proof of the use  =

of peg frames, but it is not the same thing.

      Lee's machine was really quite complex.  It would knit an  =

entire row at once (in a series of steps), whereas modern latch hook  =

machines (both domestic and industrial) knit as the carriage goes  =

across, essentially knitting one stitch after another.

      -Carol
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Subject: [h-cost] Lace ID Help
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Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
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www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Bambi wrote:

>WEll actually ...do you remember having the spool with the nails and the yarn got looped over the nail and then >you wrapped again and...well if you ever had one...this is making sense...a knitting "loom" is sort of like that 
>concept with the lay the yarn out nd loops come through and ..gosh im not helping am I?
>but they come in a few different forms...
>Bambi

I think you mean "French knitting". I'be never done it myself but I remember other children doing it in the 1950s.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help
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I'm not clever enough to know the answer, only that it is not one of the 
types of lace that I make myself.  However, there are lots of experts at 
the Arachne list <lace@arachne.com>  If you prefer, I'll be happy to 
pass on your enquiry to them, and forward replies to you.

Linda Walton
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).


Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg
> 
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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It looks to me like Battenburg lace.  At work... that's all I can
think of without my books.
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Excactly what i would say, i also looked in Pat Earnshaws book, but there 
was none like this. But i think you are quite right with this!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help


> It looks like Irish crochet, most likely imitating gros point de
> Venise needle lace or the like.
>
> Beyond Pat Earnshaw's books, which are great for finer earlier laces
> but not more modern cheaper laces, a book I find easy to use for quick
> lace id is:
>
> "Guide to Lace and Linens, by Elizabeth M. Kurella isbn 0-930625-89-7
>
> Katy
>
> On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 4:02 AM, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> 
> wrote:
>> Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 
>> 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
>>  http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg
>>
>>  Penny Ladnier,
>>  Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>>  www.costumegallery.com
>>  www.costumelibrary.com
>>  www.costumeclassroom.com
>>  www.costumeslideshows.com
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  h-costume mailing list
>>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
> Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
> Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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It looks like Irish crochet, most likely imitating gros point de
Venise needle lace or the like.

Beyond Pat Earnshaw's books, which are great for finer earlier laces
but not more modern cheaper laces, a book I find easy to use for quick
lace id is:

"Guide to Lace and Linens, by Elizabeth M. Kurella isbn 0-930625-89-7

Katy

On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 4:02 AM, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
>  http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg
>
>  Penny Ladnier,
>  Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>  www.costumegallery.com
>  www.costumelibrary.com
>  www.costumeclassroom.com
>  www.costumeslideshows.com
>  _______________________________________________
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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It is Irish Crochet. I recognize the motifs (and if I had some time I
could probably find the patterns for them).

Onaree

On 5/16/08, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa
> 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen.

Bjarne 
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Lace ID Help
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>  Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg

I'm not a lace expert, but I do have a Lace Dictionary published in 1913.  I went through the whole book, and the closest I could 
match it to was Crochet Lace, also known as Irish Lace, raised Rose point, Point de Trico or Honiton crochet "to indicate the 
character of the design more than the technique."  There is more to the entry if anyone is interested.

There is a photo of the crochet lace at:  http://www.mantua-maker.com/id24.html
(or, if my sitebuilder gets repaired, at:  http://www.mantua-maker.com/crochet_lace_photo.html)
Click on the photo for a larger view.

If anybody has a better guess, I'll look up the entry and post it, too.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
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I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question.
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen.

Bjarne 
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Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake,
Thanks for the informations..

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress


>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off 
>base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can 
>see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to 
>wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was 
>particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with 
>England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. 
>Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the 
>wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the 
>question.
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
>
> -- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait 
> and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
> I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is 
> Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the 
> king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a 
> gift from the queen.
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
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No need to apologize, I'm just a fresh set of eyes looking at it. I'm sure you would have realized it eventually. I can't wait to see the finished product! (But I'll make do with the interesting 'in progress' postings in the mean time.)
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake,
Thanks for the informations..

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress


>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off 
>base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can 
>see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to 
>wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was 
>particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with 
>England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. 
>Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the 
>wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the 
>question.
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
>
> -- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait 
> and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
> I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is 
> Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the 
> king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a 
> gift from the queen.
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
> _____________________________________________________________
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If you hadnt told me, i would never have guessed because i was so sure about 
the S and Queen Sofie.
I also noted that the same thing occurs round her neck in the smaller 
jewellry.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress


> No need to apologize, I'm just a fresh set of eyes looking at it. I'm sure 
> you would have realized it eventually. I can't wait to see the finished 
> product! (But I'll make do with the interesting 'in progress' postings in 
> the mean time.)
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
>
> -- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake,
> Thanks for the informations..
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <penhalion@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
>
>
>>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off
>>base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can
>>see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to
>>wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was
>>particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with
>>England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist.
>>Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the
>>wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the
>>question.
>>
>> Karen
>> Seamstrix
>>
>> -- "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>> I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait
>> and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt.
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
>> I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is
>> Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the
>> king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a
>> gift from the queen.
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________
>> Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now!
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> schools.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3ol4Ju547MllPNBke42Cmnn2ui3OzXKVDT0dktzD1FaOro7e/?count=1234567890
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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--- Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com> wrote:


> Widows would usually wear mourning until a second
> marriage, or for the
> rest of their lives.  One way that a widow could
> signal a willingness
> to marry was to  put off the black. Although it was
> socially expected
> that even a young woman would wear mourning for a
> husband for at least
> two years, one year of deepest mourning and at least
> one year of
> secondary. (and here I might be slipping into
> Victorian custom, so
> I'll stop.)
> 
Yes, I think you are. That doesn't sound Elizabethan
to me. What I was just reading recently indicates that
a  month (a period called a "month's mind") was
considered entirely appropriate for mourning a spouse.
Men and women both were expected to remarry,
especially if there were children involved.

This is from David Cressy's Birth, Marriage, and
Death: Ritual, Religion, and the Life-Cycle in Tudor
and Stuart England, Oxford University Press, 1997. 

MaggiRos

The Elizabethan World is at http://elizabethan.org
coming soon in paperback!
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> 
> Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg
> 
> Penny Ladnier,

Without being able to see it closely, is sure looks like Irish-type crochet.  It has the little flower motifs crocheted separately and then crocheted into a ground.

Julie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
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In a message dated 5/14/2008 11:05:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

> But  right now I'm more concerned about sewing myself a couple more  
>  outfits than making stockings for other people. It's really hard   
> trying to get some sewing done with a retired husband around.  Every  
> time I want to go in my sewing room, he thinks  of  some other work  
> I should be doing instead.

If he's recently retired, sounds like he needs to find his own   
work he should be doing.  I take it he was in management?   :-D  I  
hate to suggest he might like the knitting machines,  because then you  
still might not get to work with them  yourself.

-Carol


Actually he was a police officer, retired as a Detective on the force.  
That's where he gets his "in charge" personality from. Also he's a workaholic.  
Work before play he always says and there's always work to do around the house.  
When it comes to something the kids need though, he doesn't say anything about 
 my sewing. Right now my daughter, who has her own house, wants me to make  
curtains for her bedroom. I just finished altering a Batman cape for my son.  
He's 28 and is a paramedic but he still loves his toys. He paid $1500 for this  
custom made costume. At that price it should have been perfect. 
 
I figure if I spend 1 day a week sewing on my garb and spend the evenings  
doing the hand sewing I should be able to get away without him complaining to me 
 about it.
 
Chris P.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
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------------------------------
Karen wrote:

>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look
>closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was
>common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in >the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as
>being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of >significant people is not out of the question.
 
That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered "too Papist" at the time.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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I don't know if the fashion lasted as late as 1640. I know that it was current from approximately 1530 (there's a painting of Jane Seymour where she is wearing a jeweled IHS brooch) thru the late Elizabethan/Jacobean. I'd take a look at period portraiture and check thru some inventories to see if they were stll doing it pre-Civil War.
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:


------------------------------
Karen wrote:

>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look
>closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was
>common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in >the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as
>being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of >significant people is not out of the question.

That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered "too Papist" at the time.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress
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Henry VIII considered himself a good Catholic til the day he died, even
though the Pope did not. :-) There are lots of examples of people wearing
crosses in that period -- check out those done by Holbein.

As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to
Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 5:12 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance
dress



------------------------------
Karen wrote:

>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off
base on the necklace. If you look
>closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and
H. In period it was
>common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials
of Jesus. It was particularly used in >the Protestant countries (I'm most
familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as
>being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation
although the wearing of initials/symbols of >significant people is not out
of the question.

That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of
the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but
decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered "too Papist"
at the time.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Reference question
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Hi, all,
Do you know, has anyone done a modern reprint of:
An Account of the robberies committed by John Morrison, and his  
accomplices, in and near Philadelphia, 1750 : Together with the  
manner of their being discover'd, their behaviour on their tryals, in  
the prison after sentence, and at the place of execution.
   Philadelphia, : Printed [by Anthony Armbruster?], in the year 1750-1.

T.H. Breen (among others) refers to it as containing detailed lists  
of everything Morrison stole. I can download it from the networked  
(online) resources of the Harvard Library, but I thought it possible  
someone had reprinted it.

Thanks!
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress
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Well, I did say "Papist' not 'Catholic'- I do realize that there's a difference. Henry continued to consider himself a good Catholic while denouncing the 'Bishop of Rome'. 

I also said 'crucifix' not 'cross'- once again there's a distinction. A cross is bare while a crucifix has the dead guy on it. 

Karen
Seamstrix

-- monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:


Henry VIII considered himself a good Catholic til the day he died, even
though the Pope did not. :-) There are lots of examples of people wearing
crosses in that period -- check out those done by Holbein.

As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to
Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 5:12 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance
dress



------------------------------
Karen wrote:

>I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off
base on the necklace. If you look
>closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and
H. In period it was
>common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials
of Jesus. It was particularly used in >the Protestant countries (I'm most
familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as
>being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation
although the wearing of initials/symbols of >significant people is not out
of the question.

That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of
the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but
decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered "too Papist"
at the time.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.
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OK, I admit it - I know a fairly bare minimum about this period.  
Generic Victorian upper and lower, and "generic" Edwardian upper/lower 
both highly corsetted and moving towards flapper wear.

But - I've been asked to teach my 4th graders part of their social 
studies unit for the quarter (I teach Library Media - not social 
studies), and while history is enough of a interest for me to be able to 
cover what I *need* to, I realized  that clothing had been left out of 
the unit... and since I'm changing the unit a bit anyway...  well, my 
thought was that the clothing changes between 1890 and 1910 show a heck 
of a lot about how people both worked and played *and* how many beliefs 
were rapidly changing... so I'd *love* to include a few pictures that I 
could show in a PowerPoint, fading from one to another.  I've got the 
same set up for a few pictures (yes, don't worry, well within the "Fair 
Use" range of copyright rules) of Baltimore from "now" back to "then"... 
and vice versa... but I have nothing with *people*, beyond one shepherd 
in Druid Hill Park... and he's not really all that distinctive, y'know?

Anyone able to point me to just a few pictures I can use?  I'm hoping 
for male and female, child and adult... from those three general 
clothing types... well, four really, if I consider general lower working 
class in there as well.

Sigh... this is what I get for coming up with "intersesting" ideas at 
the last moment, I guess...

-Liz   (gotta hit a library again tomorrow... and just my luck, my 
preferred one is across the street from a very crowded Wine Festival... 
which means little to no parking available...)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.
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"The Music Man", the movie with Shirley Jones, has some nice early 1900's
stuff I think about the end of the time you're looking at, about 1908-1910,
especially showing the difference between girls dresses, which were mid calf
and women's, which were long. Boys/men's clothes, too, (plus, it's a cool
movie).Of course, the big change came about during/after the first world
war.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cozit / Liz
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 8:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.

OK, I admit it - I know a fairly bare minimum about this period.  
Generic Victorian upper and lower, and "generic" Edwardian upper/lower both
highly corsetted and moving towards flapper wear.

But - I've been asked to teach my 4th graders part of their social studies
unit for the quarter (I teach Library Media - not social studies), and while
history is enough of a interest for me to be able to cover what I *need* to,
I realized  that clothing had been left out of the unit... and since I'm
changing the unit a bit anyway...  well, my thought was that the clothing
changes between 1890 and 1910 show a heck of a lot about how people both
worked and played *and* how many beliefs were rapidly changing... so I'd
*love* to include a few pictures that I could show in a PowerPoint, fading
from one to another.  I've got the same set up for a few pictures (yes,
don't worry, well within the "Fair Use" range of copyright rules) of
Baltimore from "now" back to "then"... 
and vice versa... but I have nothing with *people*, beyond one shepherd in
Druid Hill Park... and he's not really all that distinctive, y'know?

Anyone able to point me to just a few pictures I can use?  I'm hoping for
male and female, child and adult... from those three general clothing
types... well, four really, if I consider general lower working class in
there as well.

Sigh... this is what I get for coming up with "intersesting" ideas at the
last moment, I guess...

-Liz   (gotta hit a library again tomorrow... and just my luck, my 
preferred one is across the street from a very crowded Wine Festival... 
which means little to no parking available...)

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I've got a pleater foot, and very useful it is.

Does anyone know where I might find out how early pleater feet are?

The earliest I've got is directions for its use in a reprint of a c.1930 Singer Featherweight manual.


Ann in CT


      
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At 17:13 18/05/2008, you wrote:
>I've got a pleater foot, and very useful it is.
>
>Does anyone know where I might find out how early pleater feet are?
>
>The earliest I've got is directions for its use in a reprint of a 
>c.1930 Singer Featherweight manual.
>
>
>Ann in CT


As mechanical pleating machines were available in the Victorian era - 
think of all those layers of pleats in the 1870's - I would have 
thought that pleating feet were an early addition to machines. But 
that is pure assumption - no evidence at all. I too have pleating 
feet for my Singer, with photos of them to explain how they work, but 
unfortunately the photos are not dateable.

Suzi 

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And though I haven't really looked at their copyright rules too much, 
there's a ton of photos from that era at the Library of Congress's American 
Memory website:
http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/index.html

-E House 

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Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 18:33:08 -0400
From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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(hitting self over the head with a paper-towel tube...)

Of *course*!!! Why didn't I think of the Library of Congress???   Thanks 
E House!

(geez... you'd think after the number of times I've looked at that 
website the last few years for school stuff, I'd have actually thought 
to use it for work, wouldn't you?)


Thank you all!!!!

-Liz

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cozit / Liz" <imcozit@verizon.net>
> Of *course*!!! Why didn't I think of the Library of Congress???   Thanks
> E House!

Hee.  I only thought of it because I was actively looking at it at the same 
time as I was reading h-cost!  I also forget it far too often.

-E(lena) House

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The Music Man is set in 1912.  The clothing reflects that.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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At 10:10 PM 5/17/2008, you wrote:
>Well, I did say "Papist' not 'Catholic'- I do realize that there's a 
>difference. Henry continued to consider himself a good Catholic 
>while denouncing the 'Bishop of Rome'.
>
>I also said 'crucifix' not 'cross'- once again there's a 
>distinction. A cross is bare while a crucifix has the dead guy on it.

Please, the proper term is "corpus", not dead guy. You don't have to 
believe to be respectful.

Pierre

>Karen
>Seamstrix
>
>-- monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>Henry VIII considered himself a good Catholic til the day he died, even
>though the Pope did not. :-) There are lots of examples of people wearing
>crosses in that period -- check out those done by Holbein.
>
>As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to
>Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife.
>Monica

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Brangwyne" <tenpin.ma@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Never mind the 1870's.....how about the 1500's....

*shudders* 

and I'll probably do it again...

Brangwyne



> At 17:13 18/05/2008, you wrote:
>>I've got a pleater foot, and very useful it is.
>>
>>Does anyone know where I might find out how early pleater feet are?
>>
>>The earliest I've got is directions for its use in a reprint of a 
>>c.1930 Singer Featherweight manual.
>>
>>
>>Ann in CT
> 
> 
> As mechanical pleating machines were available in the Victorian era - 
> think of all those layers of pleats in the 1870's - I would have 
> thought that pleating feet were an early addition to machines. But 
> that is pure assumption - no evidence at all. I too have pleating 
> feet for my Singer, with photos of them to explain how they work, but 
> unfortunately the photos are not dateable.
> 
> Suzi 
> 

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Monica wrote:

>As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to
>Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife.

Yes, but he was emphatically not one himself. Supporters of Archbishop Laud's policies in the Church of England were accused by the Puritans of being "Papist", but would have been at pains to stress that they were actually good Protestants. I don't remember a cross being a common item of jewellery in mid-17th century portraits.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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I am really interesting in that time period as well,
particularly from 1910-1920 also.

I think that was the Gibson Girl era, Directoire, and
the Reform clothing was really cool.  The transition
of dress to the flapper era is really cool.  Recently
I saw a movie -- Iron Jawed Angels (I think that is
what was called).  It was about the newer generatiion
of suffragettes, they went on hunger strikes after
being imprisoned in a woman's workhouse for
demonstrating (basically holding up signs outside the
White House) during war time--"Obstructing Traffic".  
 It's On Demand on HBO.  Hillary Swank and Frances
O'Conner were in it.

The ladies in the movie don't have their hair bobbed
until after they are released from incarceration and I
believe that was more of a function of ridding
themselves of lice in collision with the new idea of
bobbed hair.

Alice Paul  and  Lucy Burns-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Jawed_Angels

What is interesting in the movie is that Alice Paul
wears some reform clothing in it.  I don't know how
accurate the costume is in this as I am not a scholar
of historical costume, just love it .

Perhaps you can get some screen shots.
the hemlines start going up during the war.  
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Things don't change much - I had a friend who was arrested at the 1968
Democratic National Convention for Obstruction Traffic.

Patty

signs outside the
White House) during war time--"Obstructing Traffic".  
 It's On Demand on HBO.  Hillary Swank and Frances
O'Conner were in it.

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Hello everyone,

I found this artist who makes ceramic tableware with drawings of people in historical costume on it, and I thought you guys might find it amusing. They're probably pretty pricey, since they're handmade in the USA, but just think: now you don't have to go to the movies to pick apart costume inaccuracies! You can do it at dinner in your own home! (Actually, I haven't looked hard enough to tell if the drawings are accurate, but since they're made to order, I'm sure the artist would be happy to add some inaccuracies if you asked!) You can quiz your guests! Drill your kids! Lol.

Check it out at: http://www.wolfwaretableware.com/

Tea Rose, who is apparently in a silly mood today
www.needleandclay.wordpress.com


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OMG, did they have to go to the workhouse and wear
those ugly dresses too?

Apparently, the women went on a hunger strike and were
forcefed.  In the movie, a senator's wife was in there
and he is the one who leaked the inhumane treatment
they were experiencing to the press.

The ladies' demonstration was basically standing in
front of the White House with signs being "Silent
Sentinels".  Alice Paul went up and threw quotes from
President Wilson about equal rights, freedom etc. into
a fire.

I am surprised they were arrested during the
Democratic Convention?  I could understand the
Republican Demonstration, they were just itching to
arrest people in NYC.

Back to the topic of dress at that time.  (I apologize
about my previous post as I was interrupted three
times and then just pressed "send" without rereading
it.)

Reform dress is of great interest to me as I am sure
women really wanted out of those corsets as they
pursued more autonomy in society.  I thought it
strange that much of the dress still required corsets
though.  Hillary Swank's character is shown wearing
skirt like pants but they are high wasted, the style
surely would have required a corset.

The older ladies are certainly wearing older styles,
more directoire -- very wasp waist, flat front
dresses, the front swallow breast with no great big
bustle on the back but  definitely had a little bump
and the bigger hair with wide hats.  The girls had
more modern hats, started out with long hair and
shirtwaists with neckties.  For evening you saw lots
of chiffon and georgette.  The girls also went
swimming and I want one of their suits!

Kathy
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  Well, I kinda LIKE the red/yellow one with the apple.....  <G>

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 11:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costumed tableware

Hello everyone,

I found this artist who makes ceramic tableware with drawings of people in
historical costume on it, and I thought you guys might find it amusing.
They're probably pretty pricey, since they're handmade in the USA, but just
think: now you don't have to go to the movies to pick apart costume
inaccuracies! You can do it at dinner in your own home! (Actually, I haven't
looked hard enough to tell if the drawings are accurate, but since they're
made to order, I'm sure the artist would be happy to add some inaccuracies
if you asked!) You can quiz your guests! Drill your kids! Lol.

Check it out at: http://www.wolfwaretableware.com/

Tea Rose, who is apparently in a silly mood today
www.needleandclay.wordpress.com


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Subject: [h-cost]  Sewing Machine Feet dating
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>I've got a pleater foot, and very useful it is.

>Does anyone know where I might find out how early pleater feet are?

>The earliest I've got is directions for its use in a reprint of a c.1930 Singer Featherweight manual.

Ann,
I have a pleater foot that came with my 1897 machine.  Many early
sewing machines have the relevant patent numbers engraved or stamped
on the machines themselves.
This sounds like a job for the patent office.  Here's the URL: www.uspto.gov
You can do keyword searches.  have fun,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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I'm going out on a limb to assume you're referring to ruffler feet, which
also often make pleats. :) The first instance I can find of "pleater" was in
1937 and was in regards to a shoemaking sewing machine, and the next was
1956 and referred to a way of making drapes...  I think the ruffler is what
we're looking for.

The oldest patent I could find is dated as filed in 1865, and talks about
how it's an improvement on the existing ruffler foot.  Unfortunately, the
illustration is dated 1887, which makes me think he sat in the patent
approval queue for some time.  (Perhaps he was a difficult customer? Or
unconvincing in his arguments about why his item was unique.)  There are a
*bunch* of patents coming in as "improvements" in ruffler feet around 1873,
including one that took "only" two months to be issued.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=OQ1pAAAAEBAJ  (Filed 1865, issues1887)
http://www.google.com/patents?id=sugeAAAAEBAJ  (Filed 1873, issued 1873)

The search for these yielded some really interesting stuff, including a
couple of interesting patent methods for making collars.

-Laura


On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 11:00 AM, <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 17:23:02 +0100
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing Machine Feet dating
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080518172020.0388a660@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> At 17:13 18/05/2008, you wrote:
> >I've got a pleater foot, and very useful it is.
> >
> >Does anyone know where I might find out how early pleater feet are?
> >
> >The earliest I've got is directions for its use in a reprint of a
> >c.1930 Singer Featherweight manual.
> >
> >
> >Ann in CT
>
>
> As mechanical pleating machines were available in the Victorian era -
> think of all those layers of pleats in the 1870's - I would have
> thought that pleating feet were an early addition to machines. But
> that is pure assumption - no evidence at all. I too have pleating
> feet for my Singer, with photos of them to explain how they work, but
> unfortunately the photos are not dateable.
>
> Suzi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 12:28:44 -0500
> From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <D8DB599A97254A7A9510B4F1751AEB19@compaqub>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>        reply-type=original
>
> And though I haven't really looked at their copyright rules too much,
> there's a ton of photos from that era at the Library of Congress's American
> Memory website:
> http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/index.html
>
> -E House
>
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Thank you so much, Laura,

Yes, I mean the ruffler foot.  Mine is a very close cousin to your first link, which I left quoted below.

It makes its ruffles is by making a little pleat, every stitch, or every 6 or 12 stitches, depending on how it's set.  modern ruffler foot:  <http://www.nancysnotions.com/NNVia/viaImagePageTacony.jsp?searchText=55705&pd=Ruffler%20Foot%20Low%20Shank>

Mine was very much torqued, and I used two pairs of pliers to straighten it out--if it had broken, well, it wouldn't actually go on the machine in its bent state.

I used it to ruffle the better part of 25 yards of cloth, less once it'd been ruffled, mostly on the every-6-stitches setting.  This is for the ruffled overlay on Truly Victorian 101 bustle.

Ann in CT

--- Laura Rubin wrote:

> I'm going out on a limb to assume you're referring
> to ruffler feet, which also often make pleats. :) 

> The oldest patent I could find is dated as filed in 1865,
> and talks about how it's an improvement on the existing ruffler foot. 
> Unfortunately, the illustration is dated 1887, which makes me think he
> sat in the patent approval queue for some time.  (There are a
> *bunch* of patents coming in as "improvements" in ruffler feet around
> 1873, including one that took "only" two months to be issued.
> 
> <http://www.google.com/patents?id=OQ1pAAAAEBAJ>  (Filed 1865,
> issues1887)
> 
> -Laura


      
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>I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
>Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale?
>To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees.
>Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i
>quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think:
>Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated.
>Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions.

Bjarne,
Looks like a wheel to me. Wheels came in many sizes.  There's a 16th c
quote in Norah Waugh citing a woman wearing one 4 feet across.  (Raise
your hand if you think someone was exaggerating!)

FWIW, I've now done 3 drum farthingale gowns.  While the edge of the
farthingale is hidden by her elbows, I suspect it will be sharper
rather than round. The padded roll over the conical farthigale will
not give the right-angle effect that I also see in this picture.
Part of that effect is created by the pinned ruffled edge and a
sufficiently stiff fabric.  My personal penchant is for stiff taffeta
(sarceonet, in England).
I've not looked at many Danish outfits; my knowledge comes exclusively
from the English & French sources. There are drums where the skirt
hangs vertically and drums where the lower edge kicks out as in this
one.  In my vile experiments, a barrel-shaped hoop creates that slight
angled-out, whereas the "Esperduccati" style appliance, leaves the
skirt to hang vertically unlike this picture.

Who is the lady in the painting?  I covet her jewelry!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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What is Esperduccati?  I can't even get a google hit on it!

There are drums where the skirt> hangs vertically and drums where the lower edge kicks out as in this> one. In my vile experiments, a barrel-shaped hoop creates that slight> angled-out, whereas the "Esperduccati" style appliance, leaves the> skirt to hang vertically unlike this picture.> > Who is the lady in the painting? I covet her jewelry!> --cin> Cynthia Barnes> CinBarnes@gmail.com
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http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/556967837tWiCMx?start=0

http://tinyurl.com/5skcwn

New to me site.

De

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Pricey indeed, but what fun=21
Kathleen (who has more interesting china and glassware than she should=21)
-----Original Message-----
From: =22Frank A Thallas Jr=22 <fathallas=40collinscom.net>
Sent 5/19/2008 4:29:14 PM
To: =22'Historical Costume'=22 <h-costume=40indra.com>
Subject: Re: =5Bh-cost=5D Costumed tableware  Well, I kinda LIKE the =
red/yellow one with the apple.....  <G>
Liadain
THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands =
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.comhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/liadain=
s_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces=40indra.com =
=5Bmailto:h-costume-bounces=40indra.com=5D On
Behalf Of tearoses=40aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 11:18 AM
To: h-costume=40indra.com
Subject: =5Bh-cost=5D Costumed tableware
Hello everyone,
I found this artist who makes ceramic tableware with drawings of people in
historical costume on it, and I thought you guys might find it amusing.
They're probably pretty pricey, since they're handmade in the USA, but just
think: now you don't have to go to the movies to pick apart costume
inaccuracies=21 You can do it at dinner in your own home=21 (Actually, I =
haven't
looked hard enough to tell if the drawings are accurate, but since they're
made to order, I'm sure the artist would be happy to add some inaccuracies
if you asked=21) You can quiz your guests=21 Drill your kids=21 Lol.
Check it out at: http://www.wolfwaretableware.com/
Tea Rose, who is apparently in a silly mood today
www.needleandclay.wordpress.com
_______________________________________________
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She has other eras as well. Excellent resource, thanks for sharing!
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/556967837tWiCMx?start=0

http://tinyurl.com/5skcwn

New to me site.

De

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Click for online loan, fast &amp; no lender fee, approval today
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Wow!  Not only pictures but commentary as well!   This took some time!  Definately seeing things I've never seen before.  Thanks! 

> From: otsisto@socket.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 01:10:33 -0500> Subject: [h-cost] 1600s portraits> > http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/556967837tWiCMx?start=0> > http://tinyurl.com/5skcwn> > New to me site.> > De> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>What is Esperduccati?  I can't even get a google hit on it!

The drawing that so many use to "prove" that the wheel farthingale is
just a circle of canes is called "Les Esperducattis".  It's from 1615
or so and illustrates a balleto of 4 men wearing the wheels. They are
assumed to be mocking womens' fashions.  Find it in Norah Waugh's
"Corsets & Crinolines", page 30 where she says it "suggests" that
might have been the way wheels were made previously.
I suppose is it amazing that no one's scanned the illustration & put
it on their costume webpage yet.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

>...There are drums where the skirt
> hangs vertically and drums where the lower edge kicks out as in this
> one. In my vile experiments, a barrel-shaped hoop creates that slight
> angled-out, whereas the "Esperduccati" style appliance, leaves the
> skirt to hang vertically unlike this picture.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Esperduccati?: WAS Danish Renaissance dress.
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Is that what the name of it was?  Knew the picture, but not the name....thanks!

> Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 11:34:35 -0700> From: cinbarnes@gmail.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Esperduccati?: WAS Danish Renaissance dress.> > >What is Esperduccati? I can't even get a google hit on it!> > The drawing that so many use to "prove" that the wheel farthingale is> just a circle of canes is called "Les Esperducattis". It's from 1615> or so and illustrates a balleto of 4 men wearing the wheels. They are> assumed to be mocking womens' fashions. Find it in Norah Waugh's> "Corsets & Crinolines", page 30 where she says it "suggests" that> might have been the way wheels were made previously.> I suppose is it amazing that no one's scanned the illustration & put> it on their costume webpage yet.> --cin> Cynthia Barnes> CinBarnes@gmail.com> 
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I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
 
 
GRRRRRR!
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Oh and while I am whining - what ever happened to the flared leg short - everything is pencil leg now!

> From: wickedfrau@msn.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 15:22:18 -0700> Subject: [h-cost] High Rise shorts? A little OT> > I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now. I was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....> > > GRRRRRR!> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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I know the application of this is Definately OT, but I am hoping some histo=
rical re-enactors have faced this issue somewhere along the line...
 =

I have been making fulled knitted slippers for awhile and got the idea to m=
ake myself a pair of boots (knee high and no heel-been looking for these fo=
r a couple of years) based on the pattern I was using.  They turned out pre=
tty well after some fiddling, but now I have to address the bit about water=
proofing them and adding some kind of sole so they can stand up to outside =
use.  I would just as soon not use a modern sole if I can avoid it.
My husband suggested using linseed oil to waterproof the fulled wool of the=
 body, but I've never heard of this.
Anybody know anything helpful here?
 =

TIA,
Laurie
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I thought everything had been low rise for so long, that waistlines 
were going up again.

Sylvia

On May 20, 2008, at 4:22 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  
> I was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
>
>
> GRRRRRR!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Try the men's department. Not only will they be less "fashionista" but they 
will be better made and less expensive.

Denise


>I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I 
>was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
>
>
> GRRRRRR!

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My teen-aged daughter swears that the style is getting to be slightly
high-rise again at her school. Thank goodness; I'm tired of the muffin top I
see on everyone, where the tight pants push up the pooch over the jeans and
look like the tops of muffins - even on thin girls.
LynnD

On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 4:32 PM, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> I thought everything had been low rise for so long, that waistlines
> were going up again.
>
> Sylvia
>
> On May 20, 2008, at 4:22 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>
> > I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.
> > I was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
> >
> >
> > GRRRRRR!
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Isn't a nice thing to be able to sew things the way you want them?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] High Rise shorts? A little OT

I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I was
in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
 
 
GRRRRRR!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] High Rise shorts?  A little OT
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>
> I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I was
> in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
>
>
> GRRRRRR!

Have you tried Old Navy?

/Jen
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To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 19:35:16 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] pirates? at CSA Symposium
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Hello, here's a question for those of you attending the Costume  
Society of America annual meeting this week:

If you get a chance to hear David Rickman's paper on pirates (in the  
session on costume in film) would you please share any resources you  
gained?  Or tidbits of information, or anything else!

I've agreed to help with a nautical-themed event in late September  
and I'm sure that some folks will want to "do" pirates.  But my main  
area for research in the past few years has been the 16th century and  
I don't think I can convince anyone that the Uskoks of Senj would be  
a fun look [see Vecellio]. . . never mind.  ;-)  This will be a  
decidedly tongue-in-cheek event -- it's in Iowa, which is a land- 
locked state, and we're calling it "Any Port in a Storm" -- with  
paper boat races on the stream that runs through the park, and so  
on.  (I expect a lot of Viking raiders to show up.)

Thanks for listening, and sharing,
Suzanne

(When they asked me what *my* persona would be for this event, I said  
"the woman standing on the wharf waving goodbye.")


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] High Rise shorts?  A little OT
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Try:
L.L. Bean (www.llbean.com)
Coldwater Creek (www.coldwatercreek.com) click on "outlet" for the good 
prices
Their "sit at the waits" shorts and pants come halfway up to my neck! 
(OK exaggerating a bit but for those of us with low rises it has been 
refreshing the last couple of years to be able to buy pants that say low 
rise but actually end up sitting at the waist.)

- Hope


Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
>> I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I was
>> in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
>>
>>     

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Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest
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Good morning,
I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now is taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is november 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00 pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but not as low as it was a few years ago. 

Scarlett
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] High Rise shorts?  A little OT
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I don't stay very much in style, so I shop at Goodwill a lot (I'm not
sure which is the chicken, which is the egg, here).


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] High Rise shorts? A little OT

I tried to go shopping for shorts today - EVERYTHING is low rise now.  I
was in Macy's, Dilliards, Penny's etc - nada - nothing....
 
 
GRRRRRR!
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Hi Scarlett--
I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the
book?
Thanks,
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of scarlettday@bellsouth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest


Good morning,
I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now is
taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK
site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is november
7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00
pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but
not as low as it was a few years ago.

Scarlett
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211385839&sr=8-11

Sarah
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest


> Hi Scarlett--
> I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the
> book?
> Thanks,
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of scarlettday@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest
>
>
> Good morning,
> I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now 
> is
> taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK
> site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is 
> november
> 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00
> pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but
> not as low as it was a few years ago.
>
> Scarlett
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Thanks Sarah!
Monica (Catriona)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of SPaterson
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/
0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211385839&sr=8-11

Sarah
----- Original Message -----
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest


> Hi Scarlett--
> I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the
> book?
> Thanks,
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of scarlettday@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest
>
>
> Good morning,
> I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now
> is
> taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK
> site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is
> november
> 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00
> pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but
> not as low as it was a few years ago.
>
> Scarlett
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:42:08 +0000
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If you search the ISBN (0333570820) on Amazon US, they  have a placeholder page ready for it. Don't know what that means exactly, but there it is. 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> 

> Thanks Sarah! 
> Monica (Catriona) 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On 
> Behalf Of SPaterson 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:10 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/ 
> 0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211385839&sr=8-11 
> 
> Sarah 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "monica spence" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> 
> 
> > Hi Scarlett-- 
> > I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the 
> > book? 
> > Thanks, 
> > Monica 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On 
> > Behalf Of scarlettday@bellsouth.net 
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM 
> > To: h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> > 
> > 
> > Good morning, 
> > I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now 
> > is 
> > taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK 
> > site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is 
> > november 
> > 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00 
> > pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but 
> > not as low as it was a few years ago. 
> > 
> > Scarlett 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 17:04:11 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] PS: Re:  Janet Arnold latest
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PS: Blackwell's says it will send it for $61.66 US (plus $7.20 S&H) when it's available.
http://bookshop.blackwell.com/jsp/display_product_info.jsp?isbn=9780333570821

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> 

> Thanks Sarah! 
> Monica (Catriona) 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On 
> Behalf Of SPaterson 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:10 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/ 
> 0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211385839&sr=8-11 
> 
> Sarah 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "monica spence" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> 
> 
> > Hi Scarlett-- 
> > I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the 
> > book? 
> > Thanks, 
> > Monica 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On 
> > Behalf Of scarlettday@bellsouth.net 
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM 
> > To: h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest 
> > 
> > 
> > Good morning, 
> > I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now 
> > is 
> > taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK 
> > site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is 
> > november 
> > 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00 
> > pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but 
> > not as low as it was a few years ago. 
> > 
> > Scarlett 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 11:54:13 -0700
From: Nancy Millis-MacHaffie <n.mm@gte.net>
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  a picture of the burial shroud of St. Bathilde of France.

 From the book of Textiles and Clothing from the Museum of London, pg 81.

The first paragraph on the left hand side says that " the 'Shroud of St 
Bathild"... has bands of huckaback bordering a mian web of tabby with a 
looped pile"...

Does anyone know where I can find a picture of this on the web?

I'm trying to define the word "band" here.  Is it a sewn on band, a woven 
in band?

Nancy
(who's been on the web for an hour now without sucees.  :)  )

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From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
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Hello,
I think I have a picture of this at home. I will check this evening.

Althea

On Wed, 21 May 2008 11:54:13 -0700, Nancy Millis-MacHaffie wrote
> a picture of the burial shroud of St. Bathilde of France.
> 
>  From the book of Textiles and Clothing from the Museum of London, 
> pg 81.
> 
> The first paragraph on the left hand side says that " the 'Shroud of 
> St Bathild"... has bands of huckaback bordering a mian web of tabby 
> with a looped pile"...
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a picture of this on the web?
> 
> I'm trying to define the word "band" here.  Is it a sewn on band, a 
> woven in band?
> 
> Nancy
> (who's been on the web for an hour now without sucees.  :)  )
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



***
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Althea Turner
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I suggest Kohl's Department stores, I do not know the website off hand, or 
SportsmansGuide.com.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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Thank you Althea!!

Nancy


At 01:59 PM 5/21/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I think I have a picture of this at home. I will check this evening.
>
>Althea

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
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From: Cilean <cilean@dracolore.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue
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Gottchalks has what they are calling "Traditional" cut and it has normal
rise pants.  I have been to Sears and they now have the same sort of pant
version, so look for that type and perhaps? It is what you are looking for!

Cilean 

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Has anyone suggested just making a pair?


-C.


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I thought about it, but I really don't want to spend my sewing time on that if I don't have too.  I used to be the person who said: "Oh, I can make that - don't need to buy it."  Then one of my costume buddies, straightened me out!  She said always buy what you can and make what you can't - it was a whole new perspective for me!
Sg
 



> From: stilskin@netspace.net.au> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue> > Has anyone suggested just making a pair?
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I have some pants/shorts that I have streamlined to the easiest pattern
ever. Two pieces, two seams, two hems (machine of course) and one casing for
the elastic. They sit at my waist and I make them in lovely wild cotton
prints (it's either that or tablecloths).
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue

I thought about it, but I really don't want to spend my sewing time on that
if I don't have too.  I used to be the person who said: "Oh, I can make that
- don't need to buy it."  Then one of my costume buddies, straightened me
out!  She said always buy what you can and make what you can't - it was a
whole new perspective for me!
Sg
 



> From: stilskin@netspace.net.au> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue> >
Has anyone suggested just making a pair?
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(delurking) I find making most of daughters clothes is the easier option than taking a bad tempered 6 year old around the shops trying on clothes.? Like myself, she finds?choosing fabric is much more fun!? As for shoe shopping with her, I only wish I could make her shoes as well...!

All the best
Jayne (lurking again!)








-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 22 May 2008 17:17
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue



I thought about it, but I really don't want to spend my sewing time on that if I 
don't have too.  I used to be the person who said: "Oh, I can make that - don't 
need to buy it."  Then one of my costume buddies, straightened me out!  She said 
always buy what you can and make what you can't - it was a whole new perspective 
for me!
Sg
 



> From: stilskin@netspace.net.au> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue> > Has 
anyone suggested just making a pair?
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Good morning all,

Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources
for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
of "Le Chevalier D'Eon", and while the costumes are for the most part only
glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*

I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight as
much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them as
close as possible to accurate--while still giving the "look" from the anime
production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would give
the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm doing
Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King Louis.
:)

I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)

Cheers,
Sharon/Jasta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
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At 16:54 23/05/2008, you wrote:
>Good morning all,
>
>Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources
>for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
>friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
>of "Le Chevalier D'Eon", and while the costumes are for the most part only
>glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*
>
>I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight as
>much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them as
>close as possible to accurate--while still giving the "look" from the anime
>production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
>underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would give
>the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
>anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm doing
>Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King Louis.
>:)
>
>I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
>sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
>gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
>They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)


I made a copy of Mme de Pompadour for the Wallace Collection, from 
the painting in their collection. http://tinyurl.com/6zyeuj

I have also made a copy of this for a different 
customer  http://tinyurl.com/5954gh

I have photos of the underwear I can show privately if that would help.

Otherwise, "Cut of Women's Clothes", "Cut of Men' s ditto", "Corsets 
and Crinolines" and any of the books by Linda Baumgarten, Hunnisett, 
Arnold would be a good starting point.

Suzi 
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Have you looked at the =22Dangerous Liaisons=22 collections/exhibit at the =
Metropolitan, 2004?  Not much in the way of lingerie but many extant =
costumes used for that display...for both men and women; very nice =
bibliography.
kathleen
-----Original Message-----
From: =22Sharon Henderson=22 <henderson.sharon=40gmail.com>
Sent 5/23/2008 11:54:24 AM
To: h-costume=40indra.com
Subject: =5Bh-cost=5D Questions on Louis XV (1760s) CostumingGood morning =
all,
Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources
for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
of =22Le Chevalier D'Eon=22, and while the costumes are for the most part =
only
glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*
I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight as
much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them as
close as possible to accurate--while still giving the =22look=22 from the =
anime
production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would give
the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm doing
Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King Louis.
:)
I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)
Cheers,
Sharon/Jasta
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume=40mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=

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_______________________________________________
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
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Dear Sharon Henderson.
Thanks for your post.
This is not anything about undergarments, but i am sure these wil be a big 
inspiration to you, they are to me!
Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 5:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming


> Good morning all,
>
> Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or 
> resources
> for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
> friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
> of "Le Chevalier D'Eon", and while the costumes are for the most part only
> glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*
>
> I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight 
> as
> much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them 
> as
> close as possible to accurate--while still giving the "look" from the 
> anime
> production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
> underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would 
> give
> the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
> anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm 
> doing
> Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King 
> Louis.
> :)
>
> I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
> sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
> gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
> They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Sharon/Jasta
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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> Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources
> for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?

Have a look at http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/18thlinks.htm - she has MANY links!  I think you'll find almost everything 
you need.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Textile Society of America - 2008 Symposium
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I thought that this might be of interest to others on the list.

Textiles as Cultural Expressions: 11th Textile =

Society of America Biennial Symposium 2008 (Honolulu) September 24 =96 27, =
2008
http://www.textilesociety.org/symposia_2008.htm
Preliminary Program as of March 3) - 832KB =

http://www.textilesociety.org/downloads/2008Symposium%20PreliminaryProgram.=
pdf

Regards,
Beth Matney =


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
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At 20:07 23/05/2008, you wrote:
>Dear Sharon Henderson.
>Thanks for your post.
>This is not anything about undergarments, but i am sure these wil be a big
>inspiration to you, they are to me!
>Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
>http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
>Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!
>
>Bjarne

What a wonderful resource Bjarne - thank you so much. I knew a few of 
these paintings, but so many all in one place - great!

Suzi

> > Good morning all,
> >
> > Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or
> > resources
> > for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
> > friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
> > of "Le Chevalier D'Eon", and while the costumes are for the most part only
> > glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*
> >
> > I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight
> > as
> > much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them
> > as
> > close as possible to accurate--while still giving the "look" from the
> > anime
> > production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
> > underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would
> > give
> > the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
> > anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm
> > doing
> > Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King
> > Louis.
> > :)
> >
> > I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
> > sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
> > gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
> > They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Sharon/Jasta
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Does anyone know what a birmingham or burlingham gown is?  A student has been in contact with me asking and I'm really not sure, I cant say I'd heard the term before.  I can only assume it is made from fabric manufacted there?  Apparently the reference comes from a quote from a historian regarding the slave trade.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
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Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids or a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to make servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am trying to find a source to replicate which will challenge the black gown/white apron look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
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Perhaps if there is a period referenced, this could whittle the search down
a bit.
Two things I can think of and one doesn't apply, the other maybe just a
coincidence; a restaurant in Birmingham Eng. called "The cap and gown" and I
vaguely remember someone in Civil War reenactment mentioning a specific
style found in Birmingham AL.
Otherwise, could it be Burlington gown as I have heard this in passing but
don't know anything about it/them?
De

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know what a birmingham or burlingham gown is?  A student has
been in contact with me asking and I'm really not sure, I cant say I'd heard
the term before.  I can only assume it is made from fabric manufacted there?
Apparently the reference comes from a quote from a historian regarding the
slave trade.

Thanks

Serena Dyer



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What country?

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids or
a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to make
servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am trying to
find a source to replicate which will challenge the black gown/white apron
look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.

Thanks

Serena Dyer


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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England primarily, but anything from eastern europe would be useful.

Thanks

Serena
dressing-history.co.uk


-----Original Message-----

What country?

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids or
a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to make
servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am trying to
find a source to replicate which will challenge the black gown/white apron
look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A birmingham or burlingham gown
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C18th - C19th century...I think.  Thanks for the possibilities you suggested, I'll let her know about them.

Thanks

Serena
dressing-history.co.uk

-----Original Message-----
Perhaps if there is a period referenced, this could whittle the search down
a bit.
Two things I can think of and one doesn't apply, the other maybe just a
coincidence; a restaurant in Birmingham Eng. called "The cap and gown" and I
vaguely remember someone in Civil War reenactment mentioning a specific
style found in Birmingham AL.
Otherwise, could it be Burlington gown as I have heard this in passing but
don't know anything about it/them?
De

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know what a birmingham or burlingham gown is?  A student has
been in contact with me asking and I'm really not sure, I cant say I'd heard
the term before.  I can only assume it is made from fabric manufacted there?
Apparently the reference comes from a quote from a historian regarding the
slave trade.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
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Aaaaaaaaahhh!
Lovely!!!!!
What a great inspiration.
I ordered some beautiful pink satin 18th century shoes for my doll and 
she definitely needs a dress to go with them.

Thanks!
    Deredere

Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Dear Sharon Henderson.
> Thanks for your post.
> This is not anything about undergarments, but i am sure these wil be a big 
> inspiration to you, they are to me!
> Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
> http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
> Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 5:54 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
>
>
>   
>> Good morning all,
>>
>> Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or 
>> resources
>> for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?  Some
>> friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version
>> of "Le Chevalier D'Eon", and while the costumes are for the most part only
>> glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one.  *grins*
>>
>> I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight 
>> as
>> much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them 
>> as
>> close as possible to accurate--while still giving the "look" from the 
>> anime
>> production.  Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and
>> underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would 
>> give
>> the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the
>> anime has proven a challenge.  If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm 
>> doing
>> Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King 
>> Louis.
>> :)
>>
>> I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc.  Bjarne, I've already
>> sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the
>> gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for.  *grins*
>> They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I...  :)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Sharon/Jasta
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>     
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>   

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These are from the google pictures
This is probably 1700s but was told it was 1800s
http://museumnetworkuk.org/portraits/artworks/holburne/large/img10.jpg
typical maid attire
http://tinyurl.com/4twjfy
scroll through
http://tinyurl.com/3t5ha4
late 1700s?
http://www.prints-online.com/pictures_608630/SERVING-MAID-CHOCOLATE.jpg

http://tinyurl.com/6jk2ky

slavey?
http://adamsmithlives.blogs.com/photos/uncategorized/slavey_2.jpg

hope this helps

-----Original Message-----

England primarily, but anything from eastern europe would be useful.

Thanks

Serena
dressing-history.co.uk


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=A0Haven't seen anything on the list since this message.JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir


----- Original Message ----
From: Cilean <cilean@dracolore.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 12:13:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue

Gottchalks has what they are calling "Traditional" cut and it has normal
rise pants.=A0 I have been to Sears and they now have the same sort of pant
version, so look for that type and perhaps? It is what you are looking for!

Cilean =


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      =

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At 14:19 29/05/2008, you wrote:

>  Haven't seen anything on the list since this message.JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
>aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Cilean <cilean@dracolore.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 12:13:16 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue
>
>Gottchalks has what they are calling "Traditional" cut and it has normal
>rise pants.  I have been to Sears and they now have the same sort of pant
>version, so look for that type and perhaps? It is what you are looking for!
>
>Cilean

Coo, a message from the future! The date is 22 June this year, and we 
are still in May! Oh, and I didn't get that message anyway.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] book sale
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http://store.doverpublications.com/index.html

Dover books is having a bargain bin sale. While browsing the sale titles, I noticed several books that might apply to recent H-Costume topics. One book written by a black butler in the Antebellum south, another on Military uniforms of the past and one on 18th century metal ornaments. 

Just FYI.  I don't get commission and I can't vouch for the usefulness of the individual titles, but it's worth a quick search if there is something you've been looking for.

I wanted some leather working books, but none of them are in the sale.  I'm going to go back and look for some books on knights and their horses' appointments.

Denise
Iowa
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Subject: [h-cost] I want to see the Louis Carrogis watercolors
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I'd love to see these watercolors, but the link doesn't work for me and when
I get to the web site all the error messages are in French.  Can someone
help me?

Martha

> Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
>
http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E
=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
> Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!
>
> Bjarne


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At 19:15 29/05/2008, you wrote:
>I'd love to see these watercolors, but the link doesn't work for me and when
>I get to the web site all the error messages are in French.  Can someone
>help me?
>
>Martha
>
> > Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
> >
>http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E
>=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
> > Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!
> >
> > Bjarne


>See if this works  http://tinyurl.com/5k8w4v

Suzi 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I want to see the Louis Carrogis watercolors
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Try this!
http://tiny.cc/PLZOh

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] I want to see the Louis Carrogis watercolors


> I'd love to see these watercolors, but the link doesn't work for me and 
> when
> I get to the web site all the error messages are in French.  Can someone
> help me?
>
> Martha
>
>> Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility:
>>
> http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2&Total=500&FP=17986705&E
> =2K1KTS5GS7Q6&SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6&New=T&Page=1
>> Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!!
>>
>> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Ribbon
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Can anybody recommend a supplier of silk ribbons from the UK?

Thanks

Serena
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Subject: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum
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Someone posted this another place I go. For those of you who collect 
machines, or drool at the thought.

http://www.sewmuse.co.uk/

Suzi

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http://www.londonbeadco.co.uk/

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Ribbon


> Can anybody recommend a supplier of silk ribbons from the UK?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Serena
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Subject: [h-cost] Friday Puzzler - Painting Identification
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http://pics.livejournal.com/ada_doom/pic/0002wrpe/

Hi everyone, I have a small mystery for the collective mind here:

I was contacted by a Luthier who used this painting as his inspiration for 
the construction of a new Lute. He would like to know the artist and the 
year of the painting. Other than 'Renaissance' he has no details and would 
like to know more.

I'm finding this picture very interesting due to the details on some of the 
ladies gowns, the pleats, the puffy sleeves. Its not something I recall 
coming across before - but then this is an era I have not focused on much as 
yet.

I plan on digging through the art archive I usually use for my research 
later this weekend to see what I can find, but I know there are folks here 
who specialize in this era, and might be able to narrow down the year and 
country for me. The Renaissance is a very big place. :0)

Thanks in advance!

Sheridan P


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Friday Puzzler - Painting Identification
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At 15:39 30/05/2008, you wrote:
>http://pics.livejournal.com/ada_doom/pic/0002wrpe/
>
>Hi everyone, I have a small mystery for the collective mind here:
>
>I was contacted by a Luthier who used this painting as his inspiration for
>the construction of a new Lute. He would like to know the artist and the
>year of the painting. Other than 'Renaissance' he has no details and would
>like to know more.
>
>I'm finding this picture very interesting due to the details on some of the
>ladies gowns, the pleats, the puffy sleeves. Its not something I recall
>coming across before - but then this is an era I have not focused on much as
>yet.
>
>I plan on digging through the art archive I usually use for my research
>later this weekend to see what I can find, but I know there are folks here
>who specialize in this era, and might be able to narrow down the year and
>country for me. The Renaissance is a very big place. :0)


The painting is by "Cossa", called "The Triumph of Venus", and was in 
the Schifanoia Palace, in Ferrara Italy, when used Elizabeth Birbari 
in "Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500", published by John Murray in 
1975. I am sorry I cannot give an exact date to the painting, but you 
should have enough information there to find it.

Suzi

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Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 11:15:48 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Friday Puzzler - Painting Identification
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The painting is from "The Allegory of the Months" by Francesco del Cossa, 
Italian, ca 1470.  The picture you posted is of a group of figures in the 
upper right-hand corner of "The Allegory of April: Triumph of Venus".
You can find the rest of it on Web Gallery of Art, under del Cossa:
http://www.wga.hu/index1.html

Hope this helps, 
                          -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: [h-cost] Thank you for Louis!
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Years ago I fell in love with a charming watercolor by Louis de Carmontelle
(also known as Louis Carrogis) in MIRROR MIRROR by Michael and Ariane
Batterberry.  It's three ladies having tea in the garden. I've been looking
for more of his work ever since.  This it IT!  Both Suzi's and Bjarne's
tinyurls worked.  Thanks again.
Martha

>See if this works  http://tinyurl.com/5k8w4v
Suzi 

Try this!
http://tiny.cc/PLZOh
Bjarne

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum
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Cool site!!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 3:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum


Someone posted this another place I go. For those of you who collect 
machines, or drool at the thought.

http://www.sewmuse.co.uk/

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum
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Such a cool site, thank you for posting!

I went to the site and found out the the Singer sewing machine I got through 
Freecycle (yup, free) was made in 1940, and the Singer treadle machine I got 
at a local antique warehouse for $55.00 was made in 1898 (and it still works 
and is in beautiful condition).

Thank you again!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 3:31 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum
>
>
> Someone posted this another place I go. For those of you who collect
> machines, or drool at the thought.
>
> http://www.sewmuse.co.uk/
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May 30 20:54:18 2008
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 20:51:16 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???
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I was typing the history of the coat & cloak industry from 1894.  The follo=
wing were the requirements for a model in 1894 from the book, Cole's Dictio=
nary of Dry Goods.  I thought it was funny when comparing  model requiremen=
ts for today.  So could you be a model in 1894?

"One of the most important if not the most responsible positions in a cloak=
 factory is that of the model, or "figure," and upon securing good ones dep=
ends the prosperity of the establishment.  The fact that women for the posi=
tion of models are paid from $12 to $18 per week for comparatively easy wor=
k is an indication that they cannot be had in great numbers.  It requires n=
o experience to be a model, but it does require natural grace and fine phys=
ical proportions-in fact, "the female form divine."  Good looks do not coun=
t, though a show-room figure must have attractions and dress much better th=
an the fitting-model in the workshop.  Manufacturers as a rule require a wo=
man of about 5 feet, 6 =BD inches in height.  She seldom goes under that, b=
ut sometimes half an inch more is desirable.  The professional figure has a=
 natural grace about her that cannot be acquired by artificial means.  Any =
young woman who has the height mentioned above, a bust measurement of 36 in=
ches, waist 24 inches, length of back from 16 =BD to 17 inches, arms 24 inc=
hes, neck 12 =BD inches, hips 42 inches, and 13 =BD inches across the shoul=
ders, is a perfect figure and can find steady employment in any cloak house=
 at any time she chooses.  =


 =


The show-room models generally have a contract for all the year round and a=
re paid in full for the same, but they seldom have anything to do except in=
 January and February when the buyers flock to market for the purchase of s=
pring goods, and in July and August when they lay in a supply of fall and w=
inter wraps.  The workroom models are always kept busy.  They are the harde=
st worked of any in the establishment, for upon her is tried twice at least=
 every garment turned out.  The sample, or trying-on model must be the most=
 perfect.  She, too, is compelled to toil the year round.  Large houses emp=
loy from 12 to 15 models."


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???
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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Any young woman who has the height mentioned above, a bust measurement of=
 36 inches, waist 24 inches, length of back from 16 =BD to 17 inches, arms =
24 inches, neck 12 =BD inches, hips 42 inches, and 13 =BD inches across the=
 shoulders, is a perfect figure and can find steady employment in any cloak=
 house at any time she chooses.  =

>   =


I know where to go if I'm ever stranded in 1894, though I might be =

slightly lacking in the hips. LOL!


Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] Open House
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We are having an open house to all The Costume Gallery's websites from today through June 2.  All areas will be FREE to access except the Costume Classroom.   Below you will find a list of our websites associated with our online Reference Library, www.costumelibrary.com . 

LIBRARY PASSWORDS:
Login: cg2003
Password: ccr6972
If you have a problem with the passwords, please email me privately.

Library's Slideshows:
http://www.costumeslideshows.com/ : 11 slideshows with 535 images. 
The passwords are the same as for the Library. 
____________________________

Fashion Color Database (FCD)
http://www.fcdatabase.com 
Over 2100 entries of color names and their trends, definitions, or usage.
The passwords for the FCD: ccr6972 . Do not use the login ***cg2003*** like for the Library. 
____________________________

Costume Encyclopedia:
www.costumeencyclopedia.com
Over 830 entries and 407 images of costume descriptions and definitions. 
____________________________

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???
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Holy cow!  I'm too short for them, but models are usually =

taller.  I have the right bust and hips, but no way is my =

waist that tiny - and when it was many years ago the rest =

of me was also much tinier. Ay yi yi!

Karen

On Fri, 30 May 2008 20:51:16 -0400
  "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> I was typing the history of the coat & cloak industry =

>from 1894.  The following were the requirements for a =

>model in 1894 from the book, Cole's Dictionary of Dry =

>Goods.  I thought it was funny when comparing  model =

>requirements for today.  So could you be a model in 1894?
> =

> "One of the most important if not the most responsible =

>positions in a cloak factory is that of the model, or =

>"figure," and upon securing good ones depends the =

>prosperity of the establishment.  The fact that women for =

>the position of models are paid from $12 to $18 per week =

>for comparatively easy work is an indication that they =

>cannot be had in great numbers.  It requires no =

>experience to be a model, but it does require natural =

>grace and fine physical proportions-in fact, "the female =

>form divine."  Good looks do not count, though a =

>show-room figure must have attractions and dress much =

>better than the fitting-model in the workshop. =

> Manufacturers as a rule require a woman of about 5 feet, =

>6 =BD inches in height.  She seldom goes under that, but =

>sometimes half an inch more is desirable.  The =

>professional figure has a natural grace about her that =

>cannot be acquired by artificial means.  Any young woman =

>who has the height mentioned above, a bust measurement of =

>36 inches, waist 24 inches, length of back from 16 =BD to =

>17 inches, arms 24 inches, neck 12 =BD inches, hips 42 =

>inches, and 13 =BD inches across the shoulders, is a =

>perfect figure and can find steady employment in any =

>cloak house at any time she chooses.  =

> =

> =

> =

> The show-room models generally have a contract for all =

>the year round and are paid in full for the same, but =

>they seldom have anything to do except in January and =

>February when the buyers flock to market for the purchase =

>of spring goods, and in July and August when they lay in =

>a supply of fall and winter wraps.  The workroom models =

>are always kept busy.  They are the hardest worked of any =

>in the establishment, for upon her is tried twice at =

>least every garment turned out.  The sample, or trying-on =

>model must be the most perfect.  She, too, is compelled =

>to toil the year round.  Large houses employ from 12 to =

>15 models."
> =

> =

> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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About 45 to 50 years ago I could have but that was before three kids and =

quitting smoking.
Margaret


On Fri, 30 May 2008 20:51:16 -0400
  "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> I was typing the history of the coat & cloak industry
>from 1894.  The following were the requirements for a
>model in 1894 from the book, Cole's Dictionary of Dry
>Goods.  I thought it was funny when comparing  model
>requirements for today.  So could you be a model in 1894?
>
> "One of the most important if not the most responsible
>positions in a cloak factory is that of the model, or
>"figure," and upon securing good ones depends the
>prosperity of the establishment.  The fact that women for
>the position of models are paid from $12 to $18 per week
>for comparatively easy work is an indication that they
>cannot be had in great numbers.  It requires no
>experience to be a model, but it does require natural
>grace and fine physical proportions-in fact, "the female
>form divine."  Good looks do not count, though a
>show-room figure must have attractions and dress much
>better than the fitting-model in the workshop.
> Manufacturers as a rule require a woman of about 5 feet,
>6 =BD inches in height.  She seldom goes under that, but
>sometimes half an inch more is desirable.  The
>professional figure has a natural grace about her that
>cannot be acquired by artificial means.  Any young woman
>who has the height mentioned above, a bust measurement of
>36 inches, waist 24 inches, length of back from 16 =BD to
>17 inches, arms 24 inches, neck 12 =BD inches, hips 42
>inches, and 13 =BD inches across the shoulders, is a
>perfect figure and can find steady employment in any
>cloak house at any time she chooses.
>
>
>
> The show-room models generally have a contract for all
>the year round and are paid in full for the same, but
>they seldom have anything to do except in January and
>February when the buyers flock to market for the purchase
>of spring goods, and in July and August when they lay in
>a supply of fall and winter wraps.  The workroom models
>are always kept busy.  They are the hardest worked of any
>in the establishment, for upon her is tried twice at
>least every garment turned out.  The sample, or trying-on
>model must be the most perfect.  She, too, is compelled
>to toil the year round.  Large houses employ from 12 to
>15 models."
>
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
> I have the right bust and hips, but no way is my
> waist that tiny - and when it was many years ago
> the rest of me was also much tinier. Ay yi yi!


Hey, it only said that the _grace_ could not be acquired by artificial 
means.  It didn't say that the measurements couldn't!

-E House  (has the 42" hips, at least...) 

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<Glaring at  E-house>Well I have the bust and hips measurements!  But not 
the height and waist.  I think I was 5' 6" in fifth grade.  By 6th grade I 
was heading to 5' 11".  I grew a lot that year.  The hips came from that 
time of life and my was size was 24 before son #4.  E-house at least you 
have grace...not me!  BTW, E-house are you a princess with all that grace?

Fashion designer Jean Patou is actually the one who is responsible for tall 
thin models.  He brought  six, 6-foot tall American models to Paris.  He 
paraded the models around wherever he went in Paris.  Of course, they were 
wearing his latest creations.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> BTW, E-house are you a princess with all that grace?

Hey, I never said I had grace--just 42" hips!  My point was that the 
description didn't rule out using artificial means to achieve the _physical_ 
measurements.

-E House


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E-house,

Okay...but I will give you grace!  so you can be the model today!  There is 
no way I can get shorter.

Mentioning artificial enhancements...at this moment I am putting slides 
online of a beautiful bodice from 1895-1897.  It has built-in bust 
enhancements.  The descriptions are not there at this moment but go to 
www.costumeslideshows.com and click on the VCU slideshow for 1890s ladies' 
fashions.  The first bodice, slides 17-19 show the enhancements.   I just 
loaded this bodice's photos and in the process of numbering them.  These are 
not really shields for under the arms, but go across the bustline.  They are 
heavily padded.
The passwords to the site for the free weekend are:
Login: cg2003
Password: ccr6972

I also have photos from the VCU collection of a beautiful early 1960s 
evening gown with enhancements made in the bust.  It will be awhile before I 
have it online.  The dress is very Marilyn Monroe skin tight style.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 4:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>> BTW, E-house are you a princess with all that grace?
>
> Hey, I never said I had grace--just 42" hips!  My point was that the
> description didn't rule out using artificial means to achieve the 
> _physical_
> measurements.
>
> -E House
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse 
http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would 
wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat 
conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station) 
would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy 
work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a 
badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even 
into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants 
wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched, 
white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on 
display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as 
another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been 
doing any messy work (or at least not recently).
I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of 
household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes 
includes references to clothing 
http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.html 
You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal 
portraits 
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES&row=0
HTH
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 3:01 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants


> Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids 
> or a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to 
> make servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am 
> trying to find a source to replicate which will challenge the black 
> gown/white apron look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer
> http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
> http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Have you looked at "The Workwoman's Guide" by a Lady?  It was published originally in 1838, and republished in 1986 by Opus 
Publications.

On page 110 of my copy is a description (with a tiny pattern elsewhere) of a "High Full Gown, to open in front" ... "particularly 
suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen maids, chair [char?] and washerwomen;"   I'm betting there are other descriptions, but 
I'm not finding them at the moment.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

> Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids
> or a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to
> make servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am
> trying to find a source to replicate which will challenge the black
> gown/white apron look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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I would think that a nurse would probably have worn something to identify
her profession from a maid or servant. What about the BBC series
"upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late) or did they have the sterio
type uniforms? There should be several BBC series that show maids in
uniforms.

-----Original Message-----
It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse
http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would
wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat
conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station)
would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy
work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a
badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even
into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants
wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched,
white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on
display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as
another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been
doing any messy work (or at least not recently).
I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of
household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes
includes references to clothing
http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.h
tml
You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal
portraits
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES&
row=0
HTH
Elizabeth


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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This period is before Florence Nightingale gave nursing it's prestige. Before her work in the Crimean War, nursing was not a particularly skilled or important job- most women did it more or less by default. I doubt there would have been an identifiable uniform for a nurse in the 1840's.
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
I would think that a nurse would probably have worn something to identify
her profession from a maid or servant. What about the BBC series
"upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late) or did they have the sterio
type uniforms? There should be several BBC series that show maids in
uniforms.

-----Original Message-----
It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse
http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would
wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat
conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station)
would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy
work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a
badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even
into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants
wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched,
white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on
display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as
another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been
doing any messy work (or at least not recently).
I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of
household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes
includes references to clothing
http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.h
tml
You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal
portraits
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES&
row=0
HTH
Elizabeth


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 18:22 31/05/2008, you wrote:
>I would think that a nurse would probably have worn something to identify
>her profession from a maid or servant. What about the BBC series
>"upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late) or did they have the sterio
>type uniforms? There should be several BBC series that show maids in
>uniforms.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would
>wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat
>conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station)
>would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy
>work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a
>badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even
>into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants
>wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched,
>white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on
>display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as
>another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been
>doing any messy work (or at least not recently).
>I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of
>household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes
>includes references to clothing
>http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.h
>tml
>You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal
>portraits
>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES&
>row=0
>HTH
>Elizabeth

The fashion plate is not actually of a nurse, but a nursemaid, and as 
such is not the same as a household servant. She ranks alongside a 
lady's maid, and although she is wearing dark clothing, was not 
expected to wear uniform.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Occupational-Costume-England-Eleventh-Century/dp/B00166AA20/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212255187&sr=1-8

This should have the information you require.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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At 18:28 31/05/2008, you wrote:
>This period is before Florence Nightingale gave nursing it's 
>prestige. Before her work in the Crimean War, nursing was not a 
>particularly skilled or important job- most women did it more or 
>less by default. I doubt there would have been an identifiable 
>uniform for a nurse in the 1840's.

During the Crimean War nurses at Scutari did not wear uniforms, as 
you say. They wore clean white aprons as a sign of their profession, 
which was not considered respectable, in most places. (A new 
biography on her has just been shown on British TV, which, of course 
I missed, but there were articles in several papers/magazines.) 
Uniforms were, I believe a later innovation, when the Nightingale 
School was instituted at St. Thomas's Hospital in London, when Miss 
Nightingale returned from the Crimea.

Suzi

>
>Karen
>Seamstrix
>
>-- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>I would think that a nurse would probably have worn something to identify
>her profession from a maid or servant. What about the BBC series
>"upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late) or did they have the sterio
>type uniforms? There should be several BBC series that show maids in
>uniforms.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would
>wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat
>conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station)
>would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy
>work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a
>badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even
>into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants
>wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched,
>white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on
>display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as
>another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been
>doing any messy work (or at least not recently).
>I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of
>household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes
>includes references to clothing
>http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.h
>tml
>You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal
>portraits
>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES&
>row=0
>HTH
>Elizabeth
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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In a message dated 5/31/2008 1:30:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
penhalion@juno.com writes:

upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late) 


****************
 
"Upstairs/Downstairs" takes place in the 20th century. Like  1908, 1910, 
1912, or both....it ran a long time. By then each servant  position had it's own 
uniform, just about. I remember an episode where one  of the chambermaids is 
promoted to Nursemaid. She is ridiculed for wearing her  special uniform, 
proudly, before she has actually taken over the  position.
 
And it's "too late" not "to late".... but you knew that.
 
I would think [though I'm guessing from what I know....and you want  
documentation] the cut of a maid's gown would be practical [open CF, not too  full a 
skirt] with all the aprons, sleeve guards and what-nots she needed to do  her 
job. Fabrics would be dark or grey and washable...unless she was answering  the 
door and then she might have a plain silk. But not a real uniform. Of  course 
manservants usually dealt with the public I think....y'know, the butler  
answering the door.
 
Then there are the "Great" households. Would they still have livery? A  la 
18th century? Just for the evening or also during the  day?



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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At 19:15 31/05/2008, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/31/2008 1:30:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>penhalion@juno.com writes:
>
>upstairs/downstairs" (this might be to late)
>
>
>****************
>
>"Upstairs/Downstairs" takes place in the 20th century. Like  1908, 1910,
>1912, or both....it ran a long time. By then each servant  position 
>had it's own
>uniform, just about. I remember an episode where one  of the chambermaids is
>promoted to Nursemaid. She is ridiculed for wearing her  special uniform,
>proudly, before she has actually taken over the  position.
>
>And it's "too late" not "to late".... but you knew that.
>
>I would think [though I'm guessing from what I know....and you want
>documentation] the cut of a maid's gown would be practical [open CF, 
>not too  full a
>skirt] with all the aprons, sleeve guards and what-nots she needed to do  her
>job. Fabrics would be dark or grey and washable...unless she was 
>answering  the
>door and then she might have a plain silk. But not a real uniform. Of  course
>manservants usually dealt with the public I think....y'know, the butler
>answering the door.
>
>Then there are the "Great" households. Would they still have livery? A  la
>18th century? Just for the evening or also during the  day?


The British Royal Household servants still wear uniform, livery and 
all for State occasions - think Coronation, Royal Wedding, coaches 
for the State Opening of Parliament etc.  In Queen Victoria's day the 
men servants wore the equivalent of black morning suits, with cutaway 
coats - there are photos. (It was sometimes difficult to tell the 
butler from the Lord!!) Many of the great households have had photos 
of their servants, all of whom would have worn some "kind" of 
uniform, such as aprons for the gardeners, caps and aprons for maids 
etc. However, for the date required it is highly unlikely these 
photos would be of any help, although uniform is very "fossilised".

Suzi

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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Could you be a model in 1894???
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Even using artificial means, there's no way I could get 
down to 24".  I don't compress that much - especially as 
short-waisted as I am.

This does explain the look of the fashion illustrations, 
and why I always thought I was never going to recreate 
that look - I can't!  The killer is that some people 
could/still can!

Karen

On Sat, 31 May 2008 01:50:11 -0500
  "Exstock" <exstock@gmail.com> wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
>> I have the right bust and hips, but no way is my
>> waist that tiny - and when it was many years ago
>> the rest of me was also much tinier. Ay yi yi!
> 
> 
> Hey, it only said that the _grace_ could not be acquired 
>by artificial 
> means.  It didn't say that the measurements couldn't!
> 
> -E House  (has the 42" hips, at least...) 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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I'm also terminally outta luck--5'10" and just can't win.  Too fat to be a 
model today, too tall to be a model any other time.  (And you'd think that 
what with models today being 7' tall, it'd be a bit easier to find clothing 
for tall people...)

The great thing about being into historical costume, though, is you can 
always find some era that really works well with your figure.  Pretty much 
every figure has been fashionable somewhere sometime!  It's very liberating. 
I've caught myself wanting to gain weight many times.  I look at doughnuts 
and think, well, I do want to fit into those old comfy jeans again, but 
think how smashing I'd look in an Italian Ren if I invited it and all its 
little round friends into my stomach.  (Actually, now that I think about it, 
a lot of the historical styles designed for skinny people wind up looking 
best on more substantial people.  Like Franco-Flemish late 14th/early 15thC 
cotes; sure, they were designed for the waifish splindly armed set, but you 
stuff a belly and some triple Fs into a bust supporting fitted cote and 
WOW.)

-E House
mmmmm.... doughnuts.... 

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From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?
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I am attending a Restoration Ball and do not have a costume. However,
I do have one I made a few weeks ago, an 1830 daydress. I know these
are completely different eras, but I'm desperate. I was wondering if
anyone thought I might be able to add something/do something to this
gown (without ruining it) to make it wearable for this ball, English
late 17th Century.
I am not looking for historical accuracy, just to look close to
period, so it is truly 'dress-up'. One day I will make the proper
outfit, I do have a pattern, but right now I do not have the time.
The picture of my gown is at
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v252/251/81/533339547/n533339547_417939_7562.jpg

Many thanks,
Aylwen
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 19:50:25 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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>>  a cap was a
>> badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned  
>> them (even
>> into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in  
>> restaurants
>> wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads)

I can recall most waitresses wearing caps and aprons well into the  
1960's, in rural California.

I think nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol, though.  I  
believe each nursing school had its own cap design.  I remember being  
in the hospital as a child, in 1967 or so, and being entranced with  
one nurse whose cap was a frilly little lampshade thing. I remember  
her saying it was a real pain to iron.

Margo
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:30:04 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] help please! need of 16th century shirts
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Status: RO

Can anyone help? I have someone in need of 16th century woman's high-necked
smock who does not sew well. I probably do not have time to make one for
her. In a quick scan online, I wasn't happy with what I was seeing. Does
anyone know of a reputable source with good historic shirts at a reasonable
price? Thanks!
 

*******************************************************************

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire

 

My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

*******************************************************************

 
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