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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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Reading various posts makes me more confident that this suggestion  
might be helpful: try looking at the illustrations to Charles  
Dickens' novels. David Copperfield is, if I recall correctly, 1850,  
but much of it is set earlier, in David's boyhood and adolescence,  
making the "period" of the illustrations 1820-1840. Several other  
novels AND The Pickwick Papers are earlier. The illustrations, mostly  
by Phiz, are wonderful, and show characters of many classes and  
callings. I'd bet there's a lady's maid or a housemaid, or both, in  
there somewhere. Sorry don't have online sources, but any library  
would have the books.
And speaking of books, is London Labour and the London Poor too  
early? I associate it with Dickens' time but might be wrong.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On May 26, 2008, at 1:01 PM, Serena Dyer wrote:

> Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house  
> maids or a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have  
> been asked to make servants' dress of this date for historical  
> interpretation, and am trying to find a source to replicate which  
> will challenge the black gown/white apron look, which our visitors  
> seem to associate with them.
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer
> http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
> http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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I have this bad habit of finding portraits that I like on the web and then
forgetting where I saw them.  Can someone help me with this one?

The person selling it on e-bay labeled it as Anne Boleyn, but not possible.
I think it may be Austrian, but who is it and from where?



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DOLL-HOUSE-TUDOR-PICTURE-Anne-Boleyn-ELABORATE-FRAME_W
0QQitemZ190226350668QQihZ009QQcategoryZ112548QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVi
ewItem



Regina

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You are right that is not Anne Boleyn.
smaller url so others don't have to cut and paste.
http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4

It could also be Spanish

-----Original Message-----

I have this bad habit of finding portraits that I like on the web and then
forgetting where I saw them.  Can someone help me with this one?

The person selling it on e-bay labeled it as Anne Boleyn, but not possible.
I think it may be Austrian, but who is it and from where?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DOLL-HOUSE-TUDOR-PICTURE-Anne-Boleyn-ELABORATE-FRAME_W
0QQitemZ190226350668QQihZ009QQcategoryZ112548QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVi
ewItem

Regina


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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Banyan
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I have finished my Banyan. For those  who would like to see it, its here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm

Bjarne
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4


Well, to be fair, there's some small possibility it is a portrait of AB; it 
could just be posthumous.

...and, it looks like that may be the case.  It's attributed to Marcus 
Gheeraerts the younger, as a posthumous romanticized portrait.  Since he 
painted for QE once or twice, she may well have asked for it.

-E House

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>  > http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4

>  Well, to be fair, there's some small possibility it is a portrait of AB; it
>  could just be posthumous.
>
>  ...and, it looks like that may be the case.  It's attributed to Marcus
>  Gheeraerts the younger, as a posthumous romanticized portrait.  Since he
>  painted for QE once or twice, she may well have asked for it.


Where did you see the attribution?  Just curious as I didn't see it on
the auction.

It's definitely not Anne, she's wearing distinctly post 1600 Spanish
dress so is from the Spanish or Austrian Court.

I'm not sure if I came across this particular portrait on an auction
site or Bildindex. My files are huge and haven't been orderd from
across three HDDs so I'm not sure where I have that one either. I
think it was bildindex but I cannot access the site right now.
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/late.htm
But the style is definitely in line with those images I collected a while back.

She is very much in the style of Pantoja de la Cruz:
http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/cruz_juan_pantoja_de_la.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/p/pantoja/index.html
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11.516

The softness and roundness of the way her features have been painted
as well as the style of dress.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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No, that wasn't in the auction description--it's the result of Google 
searching.  Not saying that it's definitely true; just that the only places 
I found that attributed the image to anyone said Gheeraerts.

-E House

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> No, that wasn't in the auction description--it's the result of Google
>  searching.  Not saying that it's definitely true; just that the only places
>  I found that attributed the image to anyone said Gheeraerts.

http://www.marileecody.com/sixwivesimages.html
At the bottom it is listed as being by Frans Pourbus :) And it is much
more in his style- Pantoja, Coello and Pourbus at one stage get very
close to each other in some portraits. Coello tends to be more rigid
and restrained while Pourbus much softer and Pantoja generally is
between. But I'm really not sure why it is said to be Anne.

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/p/pourbus/frans_y/portlady.html
Here's why, it was an inscription added much much later.

I keep thinking all the Italian ladies wore their ruffs open in this
style, many did but some were as close to Spanish in their style as
they could get.
That cross really suggests Spanish though, her hair however is not
piled very high which is also ...


I adore c1600 Spanish and Italian gowns and am definitely making
something in the style soon.
http://pintura.aut.org/SearchProducto?Produnum=41533
Something like this.

Darnit!!!! This thread has seriously derailed my current thoughts
where were in armour and modern costume mode. And I seriously need to
redo links all over the show as Gabrius has departed. But now I have a
whole lot of new links to replace them with :D

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 11:52:38 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Forbes' legacy lives in Carlisle
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Is anyone on the list involved in this? It's my alma mater. My 40th  
reunion is the following week, so I doubt I'll get down there to see  
the encampment.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

Begin forwarded message:

>
> If you want to go to Dickinson a weekend early, this is what you  
> will find at the college.
>
>
>
> http://postgazette.com/pg/08153/885925-37.stm

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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Quoting michaela de bruce <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>:

>>  > http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4
>
>>  Well, to be fair, there's some small possibility it is a portrait of AB; it
>>  could just be posthumous.
>>
>>  ...and, it looks like that may be the case.  It's attributed to Marcus
>>  Gheeraerts the younger, as a posthumous romanticized portrait.  Since he
>>  painted for QE once or twice, she may well have asked for it.
>
>
> Where did you see the attribution?  Just curious as I didn't see it on
> the auction.
>
> It's definitely not Anne, she's wearing distinctly post 1600 Spanish
> dress so is from the Spanish or Austrian Court.

I've seen it attributed to Pourbus rather than Gheeraerts.  Wikipedia  
claims Gheeraerts -- all other sources including this entry cite  
Pourbus.
http://encyclopedia.farlex.com/Anne+Boleyn  With her eyes, it also  
looks like the work of Sofonisba Anguissola; but I leave the  
attribution to the folks that know.


As to it can't be Anne, I disagree.  It's attributed as a posthumous  
painting -- as the above posted indicated possibly at the behest of  
Elizabeth, her daughter, who might have requested those clothes.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Quoting michaela de bruce <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>:

*snip*

>
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/p/pourbus/frans_y/portlady.html
> Here's why, it was an inscription added much much later.
>

Cool!  Did not know that.  wga.hu must have done an update since the  
last time I looked at Pourbus.  :-)

Thanks!

Susan
-----
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 01:57 AM 6/1/2008, you wrote:
>I have finished my Banyan. For those  who would like to see it, its here:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm
>
>Bjarne

Bjarne,
As usual, it's very handsome.  And looks to be comfortable, too.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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In a message dated 5/31/2008 10:52:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lists@margospatterns.com writes:

I think  nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol,  though.


****************
 
I wonder how nun's veils play into this. Sisters of mercy, y'know. Many  nuns 
were nurses y'know, from the beginning.



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
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(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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In a message dated 6/1/2008 4:57:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm



************
 
Just lovely, as usual.
 
I hope you will also make one of those caps whose pattern looks like 4  
shapes that resemble and iron....a sort of pointed arch shape. You sew them  
together and cover the point at the top with a tassel, then turn the bottom up  like 
a cuff. You can wear that with your banyan open and flowing, your shirt and  
breeches showing underneath.



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 12:54 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants



In a message dated 5/31/2008 10:52:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lists@margospatterns.com writes:

I think  nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol,  though.


****************

I wonder how nun's veils play into this. Sisters of mercy, y'know. Many
nuns
were nurses y'know, from the beginning.



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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At 18:58 01/06/2008, you wrote:
>Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
>Monica
Nurses don't wear actual veils, but caps, some of which are very, 
very elaborate. St. Thomas's "sisters" used to wear a cap called a 
Nightingale, which was a nightmare to fold and starch. Some Matrons 
seem to have worn veil-like headdresses, and used to march along 
corridors like ships in full sail.

Nuns still wear veils here, but fairly simple, going by the nuns from 
the place just off Oxford Street, In London's West End.

Suzi


>In a message dated 5/31/2008 10:52:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>lists@margospatterns.com writes:
>
>I think  nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol,  though.
>
>
>****************
>
>I wonder how nun's veils play into this. Sisters of mercy, y'know. Many
>nuns
>were nurses y'know, from the beginning.
>
>
>
>**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
>Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
>(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d31.300757c6.35743081@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 20:36:03 +0200
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Banyan
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Hi,
Yes i was considering one of these you mention, but i thoght this one was a =

little humouristic two. Besides embroidering a cap would be fun, but as i a=
m =

only going to use this once, i wouldnt make two much of it.
I am using it in September at the aniversary of Gustavs Sk=E5l. We are goin=
g =

to be gathered a whole weekend, with breakfast two, and this is where i am =

going to use it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- =

From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Banyan


>
> In a message dated 6/1/2008 4:57:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm
>
>
>
> ************
>
> Just lovely, as usual.
>
> I hope you will also make one of those caps whose pattern looks like 4
> shapes that resemble and iron....a sort of pointed arch shape. You sew =

> them
> together and cover the point at the top with a tassel, then turn the =

> bottom up  like
> a cuff. You can wear that with your banyan open and flowing, your shirt =

> and
> breeches showing underneath.
>
>
>
> **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
> Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=3D4&?NCID=3Daolfod0003000000000=
2)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> =



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On Sunday 01 June 2008 4:47:50 am otsisto wrote:
> You are right that is not Anne Boleyn.
> smaller url so others don't have to cut and paste.
> http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4
>
> It could also be Spanish

I'll third that.  Anne Boleyn was executed in 1536--decades before ruffs 
became fashionable wear.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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  Pretty, but definitely NOT Tudor.  My first (semi-educated) impression was
Dutch- Rubens, Rembrandt, etc portraiture....
   She looks familiar.  Maybe someone here "knows" her- will be interesting
to see!

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 1:48 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] portraits?

You are right that is not Anne Boleyn.
smaller url so others don't have to cut and paste.
http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4

It could also be Spanish

-----Original Message-----

I have this bad habit of finding portraits that I like on the web and then
forgetting where I saw them.  Can someone help me with this one?

The person selling it on e-bay labeled it as Anne Boleyn, but not possible.
I think it may be Austrian, but who is it and from where?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DOLL-HOUSE-TUDOR-PICTURE-Anne-Boleyn-ELABORATE-FRAME_W
0QQitemZ190226350668QQihZ009QQcategoryZ112548QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVi
ewItem

Regina


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  Huh!  Kewl!  Is there a place to see the "original"?
 

Liadain again,
Who should read ALL the mail before "speaking".  <G>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4


Well, to be fair, there's some small possibility it is a portrait of AB; it 
could just be posthumous.

...and, it looks like that may be the case.  It's attributed to Marcus 
Gheeraerts the younger, as a posthumous romanticized portrait.  Since he 
painted for QE once or twice, she may well have asked for it.

-E House

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On Saturday 31 May 2008 9:10:53 pm Aylwen Garden wrote:
> I am attending a Restoration Ball and do not have a costume. However,
> I do have one I made a few weeks ago, an 1830 daydress. I know these
> are completely different eras, but I'm desperate. I was wondering if
> anyone thought I might be able to add something/do something to this
> gown (without ruining it) to make it wearable for this ball, English
> late 17th Century.
> I am not looking for historical accuracy, just to look close to
> period, so it is truly 'dress-up'. One day I will make the proper
> outfit, I do have a pattern, but right now I do not have the time.
> The picture of my gown is at
> http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v252/251/81/533339547/n53333
>9547_417939_7562.jpg

It seems to me that if you want something that's even remotely close to period 
for 17th Century, the pattern of the fabric are simply wrong, as is the drape 
of the bodice.  On the other hand, the sleeves aren't too far from 17th c 
Dutch, particularly if you wear a white fichu and a chemise with lace-trimmed 
sleeves, so that the lace hangs down, or if you tack suitable lace to the 
ends.  Take a look at the pictures on this page and see what *you* think:


http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/costumes_vermeer_dress.html


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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In a message dated 6/1/2008 2:36:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Besides  embroidering a cap would be fun, but as i am 
only going to use this once,  i wouldnt make two much of it.



******************
 
Are you telling us you don't sit around at home in period clothes?
 
I mean, doesn't everyone?



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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You could take the track of being an 1830s person doing a fancy dress
costume, the lines of your gown could give the impression of a
restoration era "costume."  You could add appropriate to the period
trims to your current gown to make it look restoraion-esque.

Here's an 1890s example from the MFA in Boston:

it is:
Woman's Evening Dress in 2 parts
French, about 1895
Maker: House of Worth
Silk and machine-made cotton lace
A dress in two parts, of gold colored satin, designed in the style of
the mid-17th century
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Gift of Mrs. J. D. Cameron Bradley, 1950
Accession number: 50.3142a


http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=65576&coll_keywords=&coll_accession=&coll_name=dress&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=silk&coll_culture=&coll_classification=&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=1&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=2&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=241

I have more detailed pictures of it form an exhibition but not sure I
can find them.

Katy

On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 9:10 PM, Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am attending a Restoration Ball and do not have a costume. However,
> I do have one I made a few weeks ago, an 1830 daydress. I know these
> are completely different eras, but I'm desperate. I was wondering if
> anyone thought I might be able to add something/do something to this
> gown (without ruining it) to make it wearable for this ball, English
> late 17th Century.
> I am not looking for historical accuracy, just to look close to
> period, so it is truly 'dress-up'. One day I will make the proper
> outfit, I do have a pattern, but right now I do not have the time.
> The picture of my gown is at
> http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v252/251/81/533339547/n533339547_417939_7562.jpg
>
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Before doing anything, you need to work out who the audience/what the 
expectations are for this ball.

Will you be among a group of costume nazis or is it a group coming together for 
music, manners and olde time fun?

If it is a strict costume event, you will have to go to much effort but for a 
social dance, go for the basic shape and a few accessories and trim -- your 
average community group is not going to notice the fall of a sleeve, the hieght 
of a waist or the weave of a fabric just as your average cinema audience never 
noticed Edith Head's tailored sleeve heads in that Sinbad movie.

Or, as Sun Tzu said, don't panic (actually, that was Douglas Adams, Sun Tzu 
said to know your battlefield before battle, but it all runs together in the 
wash).


-C.


> > I am attending a Restoration Ball and do not have a costume. However,
> > I do have one I made a few weeks ago, an 1830 daydress. I know these
> > are completely different eras, but I'm desperate. I was wondering if
> > anyone thought I might be able to add something/do something to this
> > gown (without ruining it) to make it wearable for this ball, English
> > late 17th Century.
> > I am not looking for historical accuracy, just to look close to
> > period, so it is truly 'dress-up'. One day I will make the proper
> > outfit, I do have a pattern, but right now I do not have the time.



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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>
> The fashion plate is not actually of a nurse, but a nursemaid, and as
> such is not the same as a household servant. She ranks alongside a
> lady's maid, and although she is wearing dark clothing, was not
> expected to wear uniform.
>
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Occupational-Costume-England-Eleventh-Century/dp/B00166AA20/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212255187&sr=1-8
>
> This should have the information you require.
>
> Suzi

Oops, yes, sorry for the confusion I meant nurse as in nanny, not nurse in 
the modern sense of a hospital nurse. thankyou for the correction Suzi.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]grapevine.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?


> You could take the track of being an 1830s person doing a fancy dress
> costume, the lines of your gown could give the impression of a
> restoration era "costume."  You could add appropriate to the period
> trims to your current gown to make it look restoraion-esque.
>
<snip>

On that topic, I saw this picture of Queen Victoria in fancy dress as a 
Restoration era lady 
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=restoration&x=12&y=13&object=400822&row=37 
and this is the actual costume from the painting 
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=restoration&x=12&y=13&object=74860&row=36 A 
wide lace berthe and matching lace on the sleeves would seem to be a good 
start to try to get the impression across.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]grapevine.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?now Worth Gown
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At 03:05 02/06/2008, you wrote:
>You could take the track of being an 1830s person doing a fancy dress
>costume, the lines of your gown could give the impression of a
>restoration era "costume."  You could add appropriate to the period
>trims to your current gown to make it look restoraion-esque.
>
>Here's an 1890s example from the MFA in Boston:
>
>it is:
>Woman's Evening Dress in 2 parts
>French, about 1895
>Maker: House of Worth
>Silk and machine-made cotton lace
>A dress in two parts, of gold colored satin, designed in the style of
>the mid-17th century
>Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
>Gift of Mrs. J. D. Cameron Bradley, 1950
>Accession number: 50.3142a
>
>
>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=65576&coll_keywords=&coll_accession=&coll_name=dress&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=silk&coll_culture=&coll_classification=&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=1&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=2&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=241
>
>I have more detailed pictures of it form an exhibition but not sure I
>can find them.
>
>Katy

Please allow me a moment's brag!

I have a Worth bodice, in not brilliant condition, which is exactly 
the same as this, except for the sleeves, and the pattern on the 
fabric. The cut is identical, the fabric the same colour but with a 
large "lily" type pattern, but the sleeves were probably "balloon" 
ish in shape - the chiffon inner is rather shredded, but I have never 
been able to work out the sleeve properly. It was bought by a friend 
for the lace, which she still has, and which is identical. However 
she didn't want the bodice (!) and I was the lucky recipient!!

Suzi


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Ruthanne Asked:

Is anyone on the list involved in this? It's my alma mater. My 40th  
reunion is the following week, so I doubt I'll get down there to see  
the encampment.
>
> If you want to go to Dickinson a weekend early, this is what you  
> will find at the college.
>
> http://postgazette.com/pg/08153/885925-37.stm

-----------------------

I am a member of Muskets of the Crown, that august and startlingly red group in the picture, which is organizing and running the event.  I am also a member of the dance group from Alexandria VA that is doing the Saturday evening dance.  Alas, I am currently still pretty much horizontal, recovering from abdominal surgery 10 days ago, and there is no way I will be putting on stays for a good long while, so I will not be there myself.  But I know that there are numerous activities  planned and several British and American F&I groups planning to be in attendance.  If anyone is in the area and can attend, you are sure to enjoy yourself--something for everyone.

Aren't they just the ticket in their wee kilts and imposing bearskin caps?  They are so proud of them--all thoroughly documented to the Grenadiers of the 77th Regiment of Foot, I hasten to add.  The short one in front is my sweetie, by the way, in his mustachio'ed, more rotund days. So if course I think he is the most handsome.

Jane in No VA
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
Monica

The nurse in overall charge of a ward was, and for all I know still is, called Sister. I read some books by an author named Lucilla Andrew in which the nurse of the operating room (called an operating theatre)was referred to as Sister Theatre. Can someone tell me if that's been changed or not?
  Thanks
  Carol Mitchell



                     

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In a message dated 30/05/2008 19:01:12 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Can  anybody recommend a supplier of silk ribbons from the  UK?

Thanks

Serena



Also v v rouleaux (check the spelling)



   
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On Jun 1, 2008, at 11:57 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp? 
> searchText=restoration&x=12&y=13&object=74860&row=36 A
> wide lace berthe and matching lace on the sleeves would seem to be  
> a good
> start to try to get the impression across.

That's great!  It's very interesting to see both the painting and the  
dress.

Aylwen, do you have any fabric scraps left from your 1830s dress?  I  
think the lace collar and sleeves are very necessary, but adding the  
tabs would also help a lot, especially if your gown has a pointed  
waistline (can't tell under that fan).

Melanie Schuessler

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My Lady has been a working Nurse all her life in the UK, for the last 32 years working in "Care of The Elderly". Nurses in charge of the Nursing Service for any Department/Ward were called "Sisters". And, yes, there was a "Theatre Sister".
And the Boss Nurse of a UK Hospital was traditionally titled "Matron" who ran her domain with an iron fist in a vlevet glove - that often even terrified Senior Consultant Physicians and Surgeons
And the proudest qualification for a Nurse was to have the post-Nominal Letters SRN after his'her name ["State Registered Nurse" - qualifying was the "practical" equivalent of a "Batchelors' Degree" Course&nbsp; in Academe, since study durations were the same length] And a Student Nurse's proudest day would be when she got her Royal College of Nursing Badge and a silver belt Buckle at her Graduation Ceremony.
And Hospital "Matrons" used to be superbly- qualified Nurses who earned promotion the hard way, working up from "Staff Nurses" to "Charge Nurses", to Ward Sisters, and on upwards.
And the people under care used to be known as "Patients".
Until the Politically Correct&nbsp;politicians and "civil servants* " [ - *they are arrogant rather than civil, and they are NOT "your" servants, they only serve themselves and their political superiors!]&nbsp;in the Labour Party started messing with the National Nealth Service.
Someone with Political Power decided that the NHS was wasting too much money, and that the Service needed professional "managers" - with qualifications in Administration but not in Medicine or Nursing.
So now UK Hospitals have "clients" instead of "patients; - and "Ward Managers" instead of "Sisters" - people without nursing qualifications who run their departments with financial budgets and performance "targets" in mind, not with "patient care" as their first priority.
Someone hidden behind the UK Civil Service veil of "Governmental Confidentiality" decided that certain "titles" were "elitist", so SRN's were required to re-Certify as "Registered General Nurses".And the post of the Hospital Matron vanished&nbsp; - replaced by a senior Administrator&nbsp; who is more liekly to have a Masters Degree in Administration than having been a practical working urse with a thorough knowledge of caring but efficient care of "patients" - sorry, "clients".
&nbsp;
Julian Wilson,
proud to have been husband to a working Nurse for over 40 years.


--- On Mon, 2/6/08, Carol Mitchell &lt;carolmitchel@att.net&gt; wrote:

From: Carol Mitchell &lt;carolmitchel@att.net&gt;
Subject: [h-cost] Nurses and nuns
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Monday, 2 June, 2008, 8:41 AM

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
Monica

The nurse in overall charge of a ward was, and for all I know still is, called
Sister. I read some books by an author named Lucilla Andrew in which the nurse
of the operating room (called an operating theatre)was referred to as Sister
Theatre. Can someone tell me if that's been changed or not?
  Thanks
  Carol Mitchell



                     

Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  

Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         

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> I am using it in September at the aniversary of Gustavs Sk?l. We are going
to be gathered a whole weekend, with breakfast two, and this is where i am
going to use it.

Bjarne,
I just love it when you show off the things you've made for yourself.
This one is really charming; the breakfast party is a great reason to
have such a unique outfit, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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> http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?
> searchText=restoration&x=12&y=13&object=74860&row=36 A
> wide lace berthe and matching lace on the sleeves would seem to be
> a good start to try to get the impression across.

Queen Victoria had a Restoration costume done for a Fancy Dress ball
c1850.  It was on display at the Museum of London recently.  You could
tell everyone you were a Victorian doing 17th c styles. <grin>  The
above writer is correct, a lace collar or bertha would be the big
visual clue, as would a wig of bouncy "spaniel" curls.

Have fun at the party,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Way off-topic: Indianapolis?
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My apologies in advance for an off-topic posting, but it seems I "know" a lot 
of people on this list without knowing exactly where they are, and this seems 
the best way to find out whether I have a net-friend in Indianapolis.

I am considering a trip to Indianapolis in early July, but this is contingent 
on finding a place to stay for myself and my (well-behaved) teenaged son for 
two nights. One couch and one hunk of floor is acceptable. We are quiet and 
low-maintenance, we handle our own meals, and we will be out and about (most 
of the day and late both evenings) so do not need entertainment. On the other 
hand, I'd be happy to make time to sit and chat about costume if my host(ess) 
so desires! We also do dishes and bring tasty treats to share.

If anyone can help, please contact me off-list. Thanks.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] YSL
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Fashion Designer Yves St. Laurent died June 1, 2008 
http://www.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/europe/06/01/laurent.obit.ap/

Last week I videotaped from the Sundance channel a documentary about him titled "Yves St. Laurent : His Life and Times/5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris."  The film is in French with English subtitles. It is very good and has extensive interviews with him at different points in his career.  There are also interview with other designers that were his friends.  I checked and amazon.com is selling the DVD. 

Some YSL fashion history:
YSL took over the House of Dior when Dior died.
YSL had many first in the fashion industry, womenswear division:
1958: Trapeze dress while designing for House of Dior.
1959: Bubble dress while designing for House of Dior.
1962: The 3/4 length coat.
1962: First designer to use a black model in Paris fashion shows.
1963: Thigh-high boots.
1965: Dresses based on  the paintings of Mondrian.  As my daughter said, "This is one of the most famous dresses in the world!"  Judge for yourself: http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/ho/11/euwf/ho_C.I.69.23.htm
1966: The smoking or tuxedo jacket and suit.
1967: Knickerbocker suit.
1968: Culottes, see-through blouses
1968: Safari Jacket.
1969: Trouser Suit or American call it pantsuit.  This suit made it socially acceptable for women to wear pants for all kinds of occasions.
1971: Blazer
1976: Introduced his Cossack or Russian Peasant Collection.  This collection made YSL one of my favorite designers.  We studied the collection while I was earning my Associate's degree in Fashion in 1976. 

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?
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Hi, I'm the ball organiser and probably the one with the reputation
for historical accuracy. I don't push this line too much at these
events so thats not a problem.
The dress has a straight waistband, not on the waist.
Elizabeth, you are horrible! You should never have shown me that
picture at http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=restoration&x=12&y=13&object=74860&row=36
!!!
Now I really want to make that dress, and this attempt to keep my life
slightly saner than usual has just been thrown out the window!
At least, in the event of me not taking this plunge, I might just try
to add some Dutch elements over the dress.

Cheers, and thanks, Aylwen
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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I am continuing the free access period to the Library, www.costumelibrary.com until Tuesday night so you can see the latest additions.  The passwords for the Library are:
Login: cg2003
Password: ccr6972
*************************************************************************************************************
Two big additions were added to the Library this weekend:
Addition 1. I have the definitions from the Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods from the A & B sections online at:
A-section: 32 definitions, 10 pages
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1894/Dictionary/A_index.pdf
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1894/Dictionary/A_definitions.pdf 
B-section: 119 definitions, 32 pages
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1894/Dictionary/B_index.pdf 
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1894/Dictionary/B_definitions.pdf

Cole's is a very thick dictionary published in 1894 to be used chiefly by Dry Goods retailers. To see a general definition of dry goods look at the end of this message. The dictionary is a really good reference. It provides detailed information such as the weaving methods, origin of textile or fashions, pronouncations, etc. This book can be so detailed with the long definitions such as cotton, it has charts with export information by decade for the 19th Century, and even how to plant cotton. The cotton section is 10 pages long, excluding the charts with listings of factories/mills that produced cotton textiles. Those are found on http://www.costumegallery.com/Textiles/ under the cotton heading. All that information came from the Cole's book. 

This is where this definition website gets temporarily tricky! The index and definitions are separate files. When you go to a term in the index, click on it and the link will take you the definition. Each term is a link but is not underlined. The problem, this links work perfectly in Mozilla/Firefox, but the links do not work properly in Internet Explorer. You can get to the definition file but not the correct definition. A temporary fix is to copy the term from the index, and do a search on the definition page. This works well. 
To view the pages in both browser's you will need Adobe Reader 8 and ActiveX turned on in your browser. 

This browser problem made husband's hair grow really gray this past weekend while trying to work this problem. He is determined to figure out the problem this week. When he fixes the problem, all the files will be located at one URL.

*************************************************************************************************************
Addition 2. The 1890s ladies slideshow from the Virginia Commonwealth University Fashion Dept. Collection is online. Go to http://www.costumeslideshows.com/ to access the slideshow. This addition so far has 60 photos of 6 fashions. I will be adding more fashions to this section. 

The addition of the 1890s gives the costumeslideshow site 12 slideshows with 595 photos. 
_______________________________________________

Definition from the 1894 Cole's Dictionary:  

Dry Goods: Textile fabrics, and related articles of trade; as, cloth, shawls, wraps, ready-made garments, blankets, ribbons, thread, yarn, hosiery, millinery, etc., in distinction from hardware, groceries, etc.  In this sense the term is used almost exclusively in the United States, though not, as generally supposed, a term of American origin.  
_______________________________________________

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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Oh! A h-costumer is being modest!  Kathleen Mitchell is having an exhibit of her historic costumed dolls.  I received a lovely postcard with her Queen Victoria doll on it.  Here the info:

Cut Down to Size: A Costumer's Art in Miniature
When: May 7-July 26, 2008
Where: Bradford House Gallery, Washington, PA, USA
Website: www.bradfordhouse.org

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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In a message dated 02/06/2008 19:01:18 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Don't  nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several  movies...
Monica

The nurse in overall charge of a ward was, and for  all I know still is, 
called Sister. I read some books by an author named  Lucilla Andrew in which the 
nurse of the operating room (called an operating  theatre)was referred to as 
Sister Theatre. Can someone tell me if that's been  changed or not?
Thanks
Carol  Mitchell


There is still a nursing hierarchy, and there are still sisters (though I'm  
by no means an expert, as am not a nurse) - from memory sisters wear dark blue 
 uniforms, as opposed to light blue (when not in scrubs), and a sister would 
be  the most senior nurse on a ward.  Not sure if they still have matrons (who 
 would be the most senior nurse in a hospital).
 
Never seen a nurse wearing a veil, or anything similar.
 
 



   
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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 09:02:53 -0400
Thread-Topic: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
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I think nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol, though.  I
believe each nursing school had its own cap design.  I remember being
in the hospital as a child, in 1967 or so, and being entranced with
one nurse whose cap was a frilly little lampshade thing. I remember
her saying it was a real pain to iron.

Margo

My mother was a nurse in the 60s - graduation was frequently called "capping", because of the cap's importance as a symbol. Her cap was relatively plain & I can remember her starching it & flattening it on the refrigerator to dry. When it was dry, she took it down & folded it into shape.

Patty
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I have a full page picture of this dress in one of my costume books at
home. Queen Victoria wore it to a court costume ball. I think Prince
Albert was dressed as Charles II and she was Catherine of Branzaga. At
another ball, Albert went as Edward III and she was his consort
Phillipa.

Cindy Abel



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 11:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?

Hi, I'm the ball organiser and probably the one with the reputation
for historical accuracy. I don't push this line too much at these
events so thats not a problem.
The dress has a straight waistband, not on the waist.
Elizabeth, you are horrible! You should never have shown me that
picture at
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=restora
tion&x=12&y=13&object=74860&row=36
!!!
Now I really want to make that dress, and this attempt to keep my life
slightly saner than usual has just been thrown out the window!
At least, in the event of me not taking this plunge, I might just try
to add some Dutch elements over the dress.

Cheers, and thanks, Aylwen
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Thanks to everyone who answered my questions about nurses in the U.K. BTW, I begin to understand some of the hostility towards the NHS. 
Penny, thanks for the access to your wonderful website. The other times it's been open I didn't have a computer of my own, so I was really glad to have the chance.
Carol 



                     

Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  

Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         

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Subject: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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An entire grocery sack of vintage patterns (late 1950s to early 1980s)
rescued from my elderly neighbor's basement awaits a good home with a
loving family. Sounds like I'm trying to give away a kitten, but
unlike a kitten these patterns wont eat much, make messes of your yarn
or shread your drapes.
Take 'em all; they're yours.  Speak quickly or they're going to be
posted on SanJoseFreeCycle.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
San Jose, Calif
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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The University of Rhode Island has a pattern archive and might be interested in some of them.? They are to the point where they don't just take whole collections, but they will take ones that fill in holes in the collection.? Email me privately and I'll give you contact information.? But she will want a list.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 6:41 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home



An entire grocery sack of vintage patterns (late 1950s to early 1980s)
rescued from my elderly neighbor's basement awaits a good home with a
loving family. Sounds like I'm trying to give away a kitten, but
unlike a kitten these patterns wont eat much, make messes of your yarn
or shread your drapes.
Take 'em all; they're yours.  Speak quickly or they're going to be
posted on SanJoseFreeCycle.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
San Jose, Calif
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Work Class Gardens
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Hello!

Does anyone know of a good site about gardens that Work Class Sods had in 
Victorian times? The best I have been able to find is a seed catalog from the 
1890's.

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
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From: Robert Powell <wolfonwear@yahoo.com>
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I have a good home and would very much like them. Email me.

annbwass@aol.com wrote:  The University of Rhode Island has a pattern archive and might be interested in some of them.? They are to the point where they don't just take whole collections, but they will take ones that fill in holes in the collection.? Email me privately and I'll give you contact information.? But she will want a list.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Cin 
To: h-cost 
Sent: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 6:41 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home



An entire grocery sack of vintage patterns (late 1950s to early 1980s)
rescued from my elderly neighbor's basement awaits a good home with a
loving family. Sounds like I'm trying to give away a kitten, but
unlike a kitten these patterns wont eat much, make messes of your yarn
or shread your drapes.
Take 'em all; they're yours. Speak quickly or they're going to be
posted on SanJoseFreeCycle.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
San Jose, Calif
CinBarnes@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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Are they still available?

Dianne
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If not, I have a bunch that my friend gave me (her mom was a seamstress)
plus a bunch of adapted ones that my other friend gave me after she decided
to stop doing theatre. I'm in CA, 30 mi. south of SF. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1837 Underwear
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http://www.dressing-history.co.uk/pages/images/3428162.jpg

The fashion plate above, dated as 1837, shows a lady in a corset.  Does 
anybody have any idea what it is that fastens her corset at the front, as 
there is obviously something there, but metal corset busks were not, I 
believe it is generally thought, used until the 1850s?

Thanks

Serena 

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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help
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I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm getting ready to attach
the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front. It is open
like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me how the
skirt opens?

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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On an educated guess, since you didn't post an image you are working from, but I am thinking the skirt also opens in front, as a slit down from the laced opening a short ways, just enough to help you get the dress over the head.

That is what I will be doing with my 1500s working dress I am working on.

Kimiko


--- On Thu, 6/5/08, Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008, 8:39 AM
> I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm
> getting ready to attach
> the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front.
> It is open
> like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me
> how the
> skirt opens?
> 
> -- 
> Aspasia Moonwind
> _______________________________________________


      
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Metal split/2-part corset busks were invented in 1829 by a French corsetier, 
so it's certainly possible, even though they weren't immediately widespread. 
Being a fashion plate, this would likely show the most avant garde features! 
The loop & post type of fastening for the metal 2-part corset busk wasn't 
invented until 1848, though, so don't imagine anything available in 1837 as 
looking exactly like a modern busk.  Unfortunately, I'm not sure exactly 
what it did look like!

What area is this plate from?  I don't know enough about the outerwear 
fashions of the era to be able to tell if it could be French.  Not that it 
matters; English corsetiers could certainly have made use of a French 
invention, but it would make it slightly likelier.  However, there were 
several attempts in the 1830s to make quick corset removal easier, and to 
make it easier to lace the corset without help, so it's barely possible this 
is some other gadget. (Can't imagine what, though; it doesn't fit any of the 
ones I'm familiar with.)

-E House
 

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This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages 
since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If 
anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.

My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.   
Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.   
I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams 
that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam 
downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front 
sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently 
garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the 
front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are 
often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see 
where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need 
to match on either the front or the back?

Sylvia

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 16:13:01 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Status: RO

At 03:50 PM 6/5/2008, you wrote:
>This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
>since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
>anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
>
>My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
>Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
>I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams
>that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
>downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
>sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
>garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the
>front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
>often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see
>where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need
>to match on either the front or the back?
>
>Sylvia

Personally, I wouldn't worry about matching them if you think they 
look okay.  I'd baste the jacket together, put it on, and have 
someone take a look at it.  If they don't see a problem, I'd go ahead 
and sew it up.

How far off are they from matching?  Could you add a row or two of 
plain stitching paralleling the seams to make them come together visually?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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In a message dated 6/5/2008 7:17:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

How far  off are they from matching?


********************
 
This is a good question. If they are off just a little, it can look like a  
mistake. But then a little is easy to fix and move so they do match. If they  
look like they never were intended to match,  then...OK!



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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They're off 1.5" on one side to 2" on the other.


On Jun 5, 2008, at 6:53 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 6/5/2008 7:17:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> joanmj@surewest.net writes:
>
> How far  off are they from matching?
>
>
> ********************
>
> This is a good question. If they are off just a little, it can look 
> like a
> mistake. But then a little is easy to fix and move so they do match. 
> If they
> look like they never were intended to match,  then...OK!
>
>
>
> **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking 
> with
> Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 08:04:20 +0200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
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It=B4s a modern jacket? From what I=B4ve learned, in =

modern custom-made clothing it=B4s rather =

coincidence whether the seams match or not. It=B4s =

just a design issue. Industrially made garments =

often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching seams.

Hanna

At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote:
>This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
>since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
>anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
>
>My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
>Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
>I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams
>that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
>downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
>sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
>garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the
>front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
>often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see
>where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need
>to match on either the front or the back?
>
>Sylvia
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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I saw the traveling exhibition of Princess Diana's clothing several years a=
go(it came to Omaha!) and noted on all the long-sleeved garments that the s=
leeves were two-piece and the seams all matched up.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On B=
ehalf Of Hanna Zickermann
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:04 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves

It=B4s a modern jacket? From what I=B4ve learned, in =

modern custom-made clothing it=B4s rather =

coincidence whether the seams match or not. It=B4s =

just a design issue. Industrially made garments =

often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching seams.

Hanna

At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote:
>This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
>since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
>anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
>
>My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
>Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
>I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams
>that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
>downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
>sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
>garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the
>front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
>often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see
>where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need
>to match on either the front or the back?
>
>Sylvia
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Not what I wanted to hear.   Heaven forbid that my clothes are not on a =

par with royalty.  Just kidding.   Thanks all for the comments.   I =

don't think I'm going to worry about it.  The pattern has too many =

other fitting problems anyhow I need to deal with.   I thought I would =

be saving myself some time using commercial patterns when I should have =

just drafted it from the start.    I need it to look good because I'm =

wearing it for my son's wedding next week.   Purchased some beautiful =

ice blue dupioni from Exotic Silks at a pretty penny and want to do =

justice to it.

Sylvia

On Jun 6, 2008, at 8:15 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

> I saw the traveling exhibition of Princess Diana's clothing several =

> years ago(it came to Omaha!) and noted on all the long-sleeved =

> garments that the sleeves were two-piece and the seams all matched up.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =

> On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:04 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
>
> It=B4s a modern jacket? From what I=B4ve learned, in
> modern custom-made clothing it=B4s rather
> coincidence whether the seams match or not. It=B4s
> just a design issue. Industrially made garments
> often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching =

> seams.
>
> Hanna
>
> At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote:
>> This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
>> since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
>> anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
>>
>> My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
>> Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
>> I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess =

>> seams
>> that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
>> downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
>> sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
>> garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the
>> front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
>> often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd =

>> see
>> where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need
>> to match on either the front or the back?
>>
>> Sylvia
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted confirmation. You
can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com It isn't one
dress, but a combination. I'm in a wheel chair and can't do hoops. It
has been a while since I have updated, but just my running thoughts
and pictures and documentation as I go.


> On an educated guess, since you didn't post an image you are working from, but I am thinking the skirt also opens in front, as a slit down from the laced opening a short ways, just enough to help you get the dress over the head.
>
> That is what I will be doing with my 1500s working dress I am working on.

>


>> I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm
>> getting ready to attach
>> the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front.
>> It is open
>> like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me
>> how the
>> skirt opens?
>>>
>
> ___________________________________________
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What do you mean when you say a two pieced sleeve? 2piece vertical or 1 hor=
izontally connected? Haven't seen that one but there are also sleeves the h=
ave a front and backs seam so the outter part is smooth. Can't think what a=
 2 piece sleeve looks like. Brain block recently.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine

> From: sylvia@ntw.net
> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:55:32 -0600
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
> =

> Not what I wanted to hear.   Heaven forbid that my clothes are not on a =

> par with royalty.  Just kidding.   Thanks all for the comments.   I =

> don't think I'm going to worry about it.  The pattern has too many =

> other fitting problems anyhow I need to deal with.   I thought I would =

> be saving myself some time using commercial patterns when I should have =

> just drafted it from the start.    I need it to look good because I'm =

> wearing it for my son's wedding next week.   Purchased some beautiful =

> ice blue dupioni from Exotic Silks at a pretty penny and want to do =

> justice to it.
> =

> Sylvia
> =

> On Jun 6, 2008, at 8:15 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> =

> > I saw the traveling exhibition of Princess Diana's clothing several =

> > years ago(it came to Omaha!) and noted on all the long-sleeved =

> > garments that the sleeves were two-piece and the seams all matched up.
> >
> > Cindy Abel
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =

> > On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
> > Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:04 AM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
> >
> > It=B4s a modern jacket? From what I=B4ve learned, in
> > modern custom-made clothing it=B4s rather
> > coincidence whether the seams match or not. It=B4s
> > just a design issue. Industrially made garments
> > often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching =

> > seams.
> >
> > Hanna
> >
> > At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote:
> >> This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
> >> since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
> >> anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
> >>
> >> My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
> >> Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
> >> I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess =

> >> seams
> >> that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
> >> downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
> >> sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
> >> garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the
> >> front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
> >> often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd =

> >> see
> >> where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams need
> >> to match on either the front or the back?
> >>
> >> Sylvia
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> =

> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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2 piece, vertically.


On Jun 6, 2008, at 12:53 PM, Becky Rautine wrote:

>
>
> What do you mean when you say a two pieced sleeve? 2piece vertical or =

> 1 horizontally connected? Haven't seen that one but there are also =

> sleeves the have a front and backs seam so the outter part is smooth. =

> Can't think what a 2 piece sleeve looks like. Brain block recently.
> Sincerely,
> Rebecca Rautine
>
>> From: sylvia@ntw.net
>> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:55:32 -0600
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
>>
>> Not what I wanted to hear.   Heaven forbid that my clothes are not on =

>> a
>> par with royalty.  Just kidding.   Thanks all for the comments.   I
>> don't think I'm going to worry about it.  The pattern has too many
>> other fitting problems anyhow I need to deal with.   I thought I would
>> be saving myself some time using commercial patterns when I should =

>> have
>> just drafted it from the start.    I need it to look good because I'm
>> wearing it for my son's wedding next week.   Purchased some beautiful
>> ice blue dupioni from Exotic Silks at a pretty penny and want to do
>> justice to it.
>>
>> Sylvia
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2008, at 8:15 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>>
>>> I saw the traveling exhibition of Princess Diana's clothing several
>>> years ago(it came to Omaha!) and noted on all the long-sleeved
>>> garments that the sleeves were two-piece and the seams all matched =

>>> up.
>>>
>>> Cindy Abel
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com =

>>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>>> On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
>>> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:04 AM
>>> To: Historical Costume
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
>>>
>>> It=B4s a modern jacket? From what I=B4ve learned, in
>>> modern custom-made clothing it=B4s rather
>>> coincidence whether the seams match or not. It=B4s
>>> just a design issue. Industrially made garments
>>> often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching
>>> seams.
>>>
>>> Hanna
>>>
>>> At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote:
>>>> This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
>>>> since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
>>>> anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link.
>>>>
>>>> My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself.
>>>> Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them.
>>>> I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess
>>>> seams
>>>> that end at the armhole.   I really can't adjust the front seam
>>>> downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front
>>>> sleeve seam.   The back seams don't match either but I've frequently
>>>> garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in =

>>>> the
>>>> front but they match on the opposite side.  I know 2 piece sleeves =

>>>> are
>>>> often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd
>>>> see
>>>> where you all stand on this issue.  Do you really think the seams =

>>>> need
>>>> to match on either the front or the back?
>>>>
>>>> Sylvia
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> It=92s easy to add contacts from Facebook and other social sites through =

> Windows Live=99 Messenger. Learn how.
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I can't seem to access your site. Is the url correct?

Kimiko


--- On Fri, 6/6/08, Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Friday, June 6, 2008, 11:27 AM
> Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted
> confirmation. You
> can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com
<snip>


      
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Subject: [h-cost] new elist for research in Textiles and Clothing
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As you know, it is a bit difficult to keep up with the literature, 
conferences, symposia, etc. in the field of textiles and clothing 
from the post-Roman through the early modern periods (500-1600CE). It 
is a field spanning many disciplines in many languages with the 
indexing of the journals quite scattered (if indexed at all) and many 
titles not well publicized or easily available outside their country 
of publication. Well, in an informal discussion after a DISTAFF 
session at the last International Medieval Congress (Kalamazoo 2008) 
several of us (Dr. Carole Collier Frick, Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker, Robin 
Netherton and myself) bemoaned this and it was decided that an elist 
might be useful. So I have created two:

A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/

and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. : 
MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/

Though MEDTC-RESOURCES will include the titles and announcements from 
MEDTC-DISCUSS (delayed and edited), it will not include any of the 
discussion of them and only in MEDTC-DISCUSS will you be able to post 
directly (I am quite happy to pass on any suggestions, however)

These lists are academic in focus and scholarly in tone.  Discussion 
of personal projects (other than publications), reproduction 
techniques, supplies, social or re-enactment events, etc. should be 
taken elsewhere.  Please see the full descriptions at the links above.

Whether you join or not, please sent your list of publications(in any 
language) for inclusion to mailto:MEDTC-RESOURCES@yahoogroups.com or 
directly to me at mailto:bmatney@alltel.net It would be most appreciated.

I do hope that one of these elists will be of interest and assistance 
and that you will choose to participate. Please pass this invitation 
along to any colleagues or institutions that might also be interested.

Thank you.

Beth Matney  

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> > Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted
>  > confirmation. You
>  > can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com

http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia (no .com after that)
Best to copy and paste as, in my mail anyway, the automatic linking
started from the 1 last time ;)

You also need to be a member of myspace (which I am, geek*) to see the
photos. I'm not sure which of the images you are aiming for but at
least one figure in the Herod scene has a close front bodice and if
you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.

All the images I've seen show no indication that the gowns open below
the waist of the skirt. Most lacing visibly finishes at the waist,
such as the two main figures in the Herod image.
I have seen, and cannot find it again, a c1500s painting with the
Madonna weeping and what may be side lacing. But I cant find it again
so that may be poor memory.


Regards,
Michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com

*lj, blogger, myspace, facebook, yahoo groups**, tribe and lots of
fora online....
** Yahoo only just left me back in after a few months of bad coding
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With tailoring head on, I'd say that on a modern garment, they should  match.
 
Generally it's simply a case of fiddling about with both body and sleeve  
patterns till they do.
 
A little off is less of an issue (up to half an inch or so) - more than  that 
and I'd personally have to alter.
 
 
 
Debbie
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/06/2008 19:01:46 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

This  isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages 
since I  belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If  
anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a  link.

My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for  myself.   
Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and  adapting them.   
I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front  and back princess seams 
that end at the armhole.   I really  can't adjust the front seam 
downward any more than it already is and it  isn't matching the front 
sleeve seam.   The back seams don't  match either but I've frequently 
garments where they don't match in the  back or they don't match in the 
front but they match on the opposite  side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are 
often seen in 19th century onward  women's garments so I thought I'd see 
where you all stand on this  issue.  Do you really think the seams need 
to match on either the  front or the back?


 



   
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-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Kimiko,

Kimiko Small wrote:
| I can't seem to access your site. Is the url correct?

I think that this is it:
<http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia>

Kathleen

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 17:44:08 -0600
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
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I can do that in the back, but the front sleeve seam is so low, where I 
think it needs to be, that the front princess seam can't match.   It 
may be that I recall only seeing the back seams match in the past.

Sylvia



On Jun 6, 2008, at 5:38 PM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

>
> With tailoring head on, I'd say that on a modern garment, they should  
> match.
>
> Generally it's simply a case of fiddling about with both body and 
> sleeve
> patterns till they do.
>
> A little off is less of an issue (up to half an inch or so) - more 
> than  that
> and I'd personally have to alter.
>
>
>
> Debbie
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 06/06/2008 19:01:46 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> This  isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages
> since I  belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list.   If
> anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a  link.
>
> My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for  myself.
> Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and  adapting them.
> I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front  and back princess 
> seams
> that end at the armhole.   I really  can't adjust the front seam
> downward any more than it already is and it  isn't matching the front
> sleeve seam.   The back seams don't  match either but I've frequently
> garments where they don't match in the  back or they don't match in the
> front but they match on the opposite  side.  I know 2 piece sleeves are
> often seen in 19th century onward  women's garments so I thought I'd 
> see
> where you all stand on this  issue.  Do you really think the seams need
> to match on either the  front or the back?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
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In a message dated 6/6/2008 3:27:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

2 piece,  vertically


****************
 
A shape that evolved obviously to accommodate the natural curve of the arm  
when at rest by one's side. For centuries the outside seam falls at the  
shortest part of that arch: from where your arm meets your chest down to the mid  
point of where your arm "folds" on itself when you bend your elbow to the  wrist 
bone where the metacarpal bone for you thumb attaches. The longer outside  
seam  usually runs from a little higher than where your arm attaches  to your 
torso in back, at the shoulder blade, across the bony part of the  elbow to the 
protruding bone of the wrist. Matching the seams on the bodice was  not really 
a concern. The way one's arm hangs was the deciding factor.
 
It's interesting how the earlier versions....all the way to the 19th  
century.... are two identical curved pieces, the difference being the top piece  had 
a sleeve head and the under sleeve piece is scooped out to eliminate fabric  
under the arm. Otherwise, it's the same curved piece. Indeed sometimes the 
above  the elbow part of the sleeve in the back is a straight seam. It could be  
cut on the fold [and is sometimes] without a seam at all until after the  
elbow. The shorter inside curve usually is a curve from the shoulder to the  wrist. 
 
Still even later, like the late 19th century, especially on men's coats,  the 
under sleeve piece becomes narrower than the top piece, nudging both seams  
to the underside of the sleeve.



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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I don't actually understand what do you mean by the front not matching seams, as on the sleeve, there should only be one seam just in the middle of the armhole and one in the back.

The seams in the back are not meant to match, most drafting methods produce bodice and sleeve pattern's seams independent of each other. So it's quite common for tailors that these seams don't match. In my patternmaking course they even didn't make the front (or underarm) seams to match, so that we could gather the sleeve's head just as we wanted and weren't limited by matching of any seams.

More modern patternmaking methods, however, produce matching seams. The Rundschau patternmaking system I use has a matching underarm seam.  
The Burda patterns I think have both seams matching. 

You can always adjust the pattern so that the back seams match. You just have to guess right how much ease you'd need for the sleeve to sew into the armhole. It depends on the distance from the top to the seam and the fabric itself (how easy it would gather without making ugly bulks). The further from the sleeve top the seam is, the more ease you should add. Note that the whole back part should be roughly 3cm wider than the same part of the armhole - and the gathering should be biggest at the top and fade out going to the bottom. I suggest to stop gathering about 6-7 cm from the underarm seam.
(I admit my pattern has the underarm seam slightly pushed to the front, which makes the whole back part larger, so in other patterns where the undearm seam is just in the middle, the numbers I said might be slightly smaller.)

Zuzana

 


Zuzana
__________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 






       
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I would suggest going to google and asking about sewing lists. They have continued some of the thousands of old lists, and it is possible to get a daily list of postings so you don't need to log in every day.
Carol Mitchell



                     

Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  

Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         

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From: Carol Mitchell <carolmitchel@att.net>
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I would suggest going to google and asking about sewing lists. They have continued some of the thousands of old lists, and it is possible to get a daily list of postings so you don't need to log in every day.
Carol Mitchell



                     

Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  

Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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On Friday 06 June 2008 4:15:41 pm Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> As you know, it is a bit difficult to keep up with the literature,
> conferences, symposia, etc. in the field of textiles and clothing
> from the post-Roman through the early modern periods (500-1600CE). It
> is a field spanning many disciplines in many languages with the
> indexing of the journals quite scattered (if indexed at all) and many
> titles not well publicized or easily available outside their country
> of publication. Well, in an informal discussion after a DISTAFF
> session at the last International Medieval Congress (Kalamazoo 2008)
> several of us (Dr. Carole Collier Frick, Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker, Robin
> Netherton and myself) bemoaned this and it was decided that an elist
> might be useful. So I have created two:
>
> A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/
>
> and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. :
> MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/

I have joined both and agree that they will be useful.  Thank you.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Hi,

I just tried to join  MEDTC-DISCUSS and I was denied. Any idea why the 
moderator would be denying people?

Is the list only for a select few?
            --Kathy


On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at  3:30 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> On Friday 06 June 2008 4:15:41 pm Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>> As you know, it is a bit difficult to keep up with the literature,
>> conferences, symposia, etc. in the field of textiles and clothing
>> from the post-Roman through the early modern periods (500-1600CE).

>> A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/
>>
>> and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. :
>> MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/
>
> I have joined both and agree that they will be useful.  Thank you.
>
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Thanks for that explanation. I can see what you meant now.I think that the =
2 peice would definitely hang better if cut that way. It can even make the =
slit/peek-a-boo area easier to align.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: Albe=
rtCat@aol.com> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:13:55 -0400> To: h-costume@indra.co=
m> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves> > > In a message dated 6/6/2008 3=
:27:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > sylvia@ntw.net writes:> > 2 piece, ver=
tically> > > ****************> > A shape that evolved obviously to accommod=
ate the natural curve of the arm > when at rest by one's side. For centurie=
s the outside seam falls at the > shortest part of that arch: from where yo=
ur arm meets your chest down to the mid > point of where your arm "folds" o=
n itself when you bend your elbow to the wrist > bone where the metacarpal =
bone for you thumb attaches. The longer outside > seam usually runs from a =
little higher than where your arm attaches to your > torso in back, at the =
shoulder blade, across the bony part of the elbow to the > protruding bone =
of the wrist. Matching the seams on the bodice was not really > a concern. =
The way one's arm hangs was the deciding factor.> > It's interesting how th=
e earlier versions....all the way to the 19th > century.... are two identic=
al curved pieces, the difference being the top piece had > a sleeve head an=
d the under sleeve piece is scooped out to eliminate fabric > under the arm=
. Otherwise, it's the same curved piece. Indeed sometimes the > above the e=
lbow part of the sleeve in the back is a straight seam. It could be > cut o=
n the fold [and is sometimes] without a seam at all until after the > elbow=
. The shorter inside curve usually is a curve from the shoulder to the wris=
t. > > Still even later, like the late 19th century, especially on men's co=
ats, the > under sleeve piece becomes narrower than the top piece, nudging =
both seams > to the underside of the sleeve.> > > > **************Get trade=
 secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with > Tyler Florence" on AOL =
Food. > (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=3D4?&NCID=3Daolfod0003000=
0000002)> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailin=
g list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-=
costume
_________________________________________________________________
Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join yo=
u on Windows Live=99 Messenger.
https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=3DTXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new elist for research in Textiles and Clothing
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kathysmassmail@verizon.net wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I just tried to join  MEDTC-DISCUSS and I was denied. Any idea why the 
> moderator would be denying people?
>
> Is the list only for a select few?
>             --Kathy
>   
I got on, and I'm not select -- but be sure to put in a personal note if 
it gives you a box for it.  That way the moderator will know you're not 
a spammer.  I said I was a medieval hat fanatic -- it doesn't have to be 
much, just something clearly not spam, I expect.  Probably saying you 
heard about it on h-cost would be plenty.

I moderate a couple of lists through Yahoo and you'd be surprised how 
many spammers try to get on even tiny lists.

cv
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun  7 22:44:12 2008
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new elist for research in Textiles and Clothing
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I have received several requests to join MEDTC-DISCUSS since I posted 
the announcement here. Most I accepted, but a few I rejected. This 
was not personal. I simply could not determine who they were or where 
they heard about the list and I was concerned about spam. Try again. 
If you are on h-costume, at a minimum please say so and give your 
name in the comment field. With no comment, you will be denied. A few 
seem to have thought that it  was a SCA or other reenactment list. It 
is not. I also have no intention in competing with h-costume, we 
serve different purposes. I will be remaining on h-costume.

>A discussion list, MEDTC-DISCUSS: 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/
>
>and a newsletter list for announcements of titles, etc. : 
>MEDTC-RESOURCES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/
>
>These lists are academic in focus and scholarly in tone.  Discussion 
>of personal projects (other than publications), reproduction 
>techniques, supplies, social or re-enactment events, etc. should be 
>taken elsewhere.  Please see the full descriptions at the links above.

Thank you.

Beth Matney  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  8 06:18:12 2008
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] new book: Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques
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See what I found:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsets-Historic-Techniques-Jill-Salen/dp/1906388016/ref=pd_sbs_b?ie=UTF8&qid=1211385839&sr=8-11

Looks good! Perhaps another of the few useful sources about making corsets...

Zuzana


Zuzana
__________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 






       
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061/ref=cm_pdp_profile_reg_itm?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3KJHNCB8D3ZQ9&colid=1VNW1G2JC020I

Another interesting one I've found. Expected in September 2008. 

Zuzana


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www.sartor.cz 






       
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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
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> least one figure in the Herod scene has a close front bodice and if
> you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
> Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
> I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
> Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.
>

Thanks for the help. What really caught my eye was the portrait of
Juana la Loca. I looked for a bodice in the 1490s that carried out
that theme. I have the kirtle underneath. The bodice is cut out and
the eyes bought for the laces. I have a lot of embroidery throughout.
I have most of my good gowns with closed bodices, lacing in the back,
side, front. I wanted something I had nothing of for some special silk
a friend brought me back from China. I have had to study completely
new cuts and ideas for this. I love the ideas.
-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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Yay, I got in on take 2. Thanks for the help!
          --Kathy
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Subject: [h-cost] Regency silliness in two short weeks...
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The Bay Area English Regency Dance Society (www.baers.org) Presents: The 
Great Regency Shipwreck Ball, (or "Regency Survivor")

We can't get off this island, so we might as well entertain ourselves!
Caller Alan Winston with The Divertimento Dance Orchestra
Saturday June 21, 2008 8:00-11:30pm
Arlington Church (52 Arlington Ave, Kensington, CA)

The Divertimento Orchestra will provide jolly music.  The marooned 
elite, in any remaining finery, are invited to dance arm-in-arm with the 
ships' captain and crew.  Meet up at 8PM sharp aboard the ruins for 
dance, drink and good company!

Come as you are, whether Passenger, Pirate, Native, Merfolk or member of 
Her Majesty's Royal Navy.  If your wardrobe was relocated to Davy Jones' 
Locker during the fateful storm, fashion yourself new togs from local 
flora (grass skirts are all the rage among the natives!).

We've made peace with the island inhabitants and the merfolk in the bay, 
so we will feast with them on seafood, fresh fruits, springwater and 
provisions salvaged from the hold. The contribution of exotic new 
delicacies from forays inland are welcome - as long as you have already 
tried them first.

Subscriptions are $20 at the door, $15 in advance.
$2 discount for GBACG, BACDS, and COYOTE/SFCOP members.
Advance mail registrations must be received by us no later than June 18th.
Costumes admired but not required. All dances taught during the ball. No 
partner required.

Make out checks to "BAERS", and send them to
BAERS c/o Vanessa Schnatmeier 1122 Hudson Street Redwood City, CA 94061

Name(s): __________________________________________________________
Street Address: ________________________________________________
City, State, ZIP: ______________________________________________
Phone: (____________) ____________ - ________________
Email: ______________________________________________

Mark if new address for mailing list: __ Number of admissions desired ______

What is the English Regency? See http://www.baers.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
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I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left,  
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is  
generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of  
farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the "Look, first the  
hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an  
underskirt and hidden" interpretation.  I was thinking about the  
allegorical aspect of religious art.

Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head  
of John the Baptist.

Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to  
hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the  
outside?  (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies  
behind her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on  
the outside?

Any thoughts?

Emma

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
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00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left,  
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is  
> generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of  
> farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the "Look, first the  
> hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an  
> underskirt and hidden" interpretation.  I was thinking about the  
> allegorical aspect of religious art.
> 
> Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head  
> of John the Baptist.
> 
> Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to  
> hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the  
> outside?  

Here's a color version with a larger view:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_John_Retable.jpg

I should note first that I've never studied the Spanish farthingale in Spanish 
art, and perhaps these hoops-on-the-outside are all over the place in more 
reliable contexts. However, if this is the only example handy, I'd want more 
collaboration.

The first problem is, of course, that Salome is often depicted with layers of 
artistic clues to indicate she is (a) historical, (b) Biblical, (c) foreign, 
(d) a dancer, and (e) a "bad" woman on the lines of a courtesan. So any style 
that specifically shows up on Salome or other similar characters, particularly 
if it is very showy or bizarre, may be a deliberate artistic attempt to show 
something not worn by real live women of the artist's time.

Second is the specific issue you note -- that Salome was traditionally 
supposed to have danced in not-quite-full-dress. In medieval paintings you 
don't generally see her naked (I can't think of even one but I wouldn't be 
surprised if there's an example out there somewhere). But I can think of at 
least one image in which she is shown without the layers one would expect of a 
princess. (It is a c. 1300 English manuscript illumination in which she is 
wearing only a simple single dress layer while she is dancing, but in the 
adjacent scene, when she presents the platter, she has obvious multiple layers 
like the other women present.)

Here's an image of a Spanish Salome from perhaps slightly earlier than your 
example, showing Salome wearing the hooped thing as an underskirt. Go to the 
12th row, left: http://jessamynscloset.com/15thgallery.html

(I haven't taken the time to look at the rest of the many images on this page 
so perhaps there's even another one in there somewhere!)

However, in the example Emma cites, Salome is not dancing, but is in the 
platter scene, and with two ladies. Emma goes on to ask:

 > If that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies behind her?

It is possible that by this point, the visible hoops had become code for 
"Salome" and were picked up by other artists of the same region and used in a 
broader context in paintings having to do with Salome. I have seen the same 
thing happen with other styles in 15th c. art in Flanders, when a dress detail 
was used with a clear purpose by an early painter (such as ven der Weyden or 
van Eyck) and the later ones picked up and ran with it with less focused 
consideration. However, I toss that out only as a possibility to explore, for 
someone willing to look at a whole lot of Spanish art, and particularly at 
depictions of Salome and other similar religious/historical figures. It's not 
a judgment I can make based on two examples! It might make a very cool paper 
for someone, though. (Particularly if you could spend a few weeks nosing 
around at the zillions of unreproduced medieval images that seem to be hanging 
all over Spain in churches and small art collections.)

--Robin






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The only place I have heard/seen of Salome dancing naked (near naked) is in
Hollywood pictures. Anyway, if you look at the two women behind her, they
are wearing the same type of hoop skirt so I am inclined to say that she is
not dressed only in her under garments.
I believe that there are more examples of this type of Spanish dress
somewhere.
Slight trivia: The Salome mentioned in the bible is the mother of the
apostles James and John. It is in the book by Joseph Flavius that mentions a
daughter of Herodias.
In the bible, all it said was that the daughter danced and that the head was
given to her and she gave it to Herodias and not the King. The King, if it
wear not for the promise would not have kill John.


-----Original Message-----

I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left,
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is
generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of
farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the "Look, first the
hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an
underskirt and hidden" interpretation.  I was thinking about the
allegorical aspect of religious art.

Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head
of John the Baptist.

Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to
hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the
outside?  (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies
behind her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on
the outside?

Any thoughts?

Emma

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In a message dated 6/10/2008 12:52:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

If  that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies behind her?

It is  possible that by this point, the visible hoops had become code for  
"Salome" and were picked up by other artists of the same region and used  in 
a 
broader context in paintings having to do with  Salome.


*******************************
 
You'll notice that the Royal Family, Salome, Herodias and Antipas, are all  
in the same beige and black brocade....or embroidery, or whatever the pattern  
represents. It seems logical within the context of just this painting that the 
 hoops on the other kneeling ladies are to show they are part of Salome's  
train.
 
Great painting, isn't it? I love all the hand gestures, denoting  
astonishment(?)



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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> Great painting, isn't it? I love all the hand gestures, denoting  
> astonishment(?)

Not to mention the bizarre non-perspective of the platter, and the dishes on 
the table.

Talk about hand gestures (and facial expressions) -- see my absolute favorite 
Salome here (click and blow up to enjoy):

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/massys/quentin/1/st_john3.html

I spent ages standing in front of it in Antwerp. Quentin Massys may be 
strange, but he's never dull. You can just hear Salome saying, "Did I do good, 
Mommy?" (I disagree with the comment on the WGA page saying her face bears the 
"stamp of evil.")

Nice dress, too.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
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 I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this
painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons.

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.png<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png>
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpg<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg>

Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border)
from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here
in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for
the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and
made it available to the world.

I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version
will fit nicely on a desktop.

Enjoy!

MaggiRos
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
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At 19:27 10/06/2008, you wrote:
>  I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this
>painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons.
>
>commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.png<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png>
>commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpg<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg>
>
>Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border)
>from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here
>in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for
>the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and
>made it available to the world.
>
>I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version
>will fit nicely on a desktop.
>
>Enjoy!
>
>MaggiRos


Thank you so much.

Suzi

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for more images see:
Anderson, Ruth Matilda. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic notes & 
monographs. New York: Hispanic Society of America, 
1979.  ISBN:0875351263 9780875351261 OCLC:4858873
http://www.worldcat.org/search?q=isbn%3A0875351263

Note that the shape is different from the later cone shaped 
"Elizabethan" Spanish farthingale (that I've always rather liked. 
Antonio Moro (Anthony More, Antonis Mor van Dashorst) did a lovely 
full sized standing portrait of the Infanta Clara Eugenia that is 
part of the Houston Museum of Fine Arts collection. It had an impact 
on me years ago...

Beth

>Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:43:20 -0500
>From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
>
>I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left,
>http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is
>generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of
>farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the "Look, first the
>hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an
>underskirt and hidden" interpretation.  I was thinking about the
>allegorical aspect of religious art.
>
>Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head
>of John the Baptist.
>
>Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to
>hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the
>outside?  (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies
>behind her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on
>the outside?
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Emma

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
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OMG!!!!! Thank-you! Thank-you! Thank-you!
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this
painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons.

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.png<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png>
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpg<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg>

Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border)
from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here
in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for
the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and
made it available to the world.

I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version
will fit nicely on a desktop.

Enjoy!

MaggiRos
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Re this picture: 
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_John_Retable.jpg

The farthingale worn on the outside is seen all over the place in Spanish 
art, at least according to Ruth Matilda Anderson, in _Hispanic Fashion: 
1480-1530_ (a book I highly recommend if you're interested in Spanish 
fashion!) so it's not just an oddity of the picture above.
        -sunny


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http://tinyurl.com/4rk3xu
I knew I would find the site with the other "farthingale styles.


-----Original Message-----
Re this picture:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_John_Re
table.jpg

The farthingale worn on the outside is seen all over the place in Spanish
art, at least according to Ruth Matilda Anderson, in _Hispanic Fashion:
1480-1530_ (a book I highly recommend if you're interested in Spanish
fashion!) so it's not just an oddity of the picture above.
        -sunny



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
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-----Original Message-----
 I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this
painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons.

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.png
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c
_1569.png

http://tinyurl.com/4tdbsv


commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c
_1569.jpg

http://tinyurl.com/3zbxb9

Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border)
from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here
in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for
the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and
made it available to the world.

I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version
will fit nicely on a desktop.

Enjoy!

MaggiRos


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
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Oh dear! I didn't think it was going to break or I'd have tiny'd it myself.
Thanks!

On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 1:47 PM, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>  I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this
> painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons.
>
> commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.png
>
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c
> _1569.png<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/4tdbsv
>
>
> commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpg
>
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c
> _1569.jpg<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/3zbxb9
>
> Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border)
> from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here
> in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for
> the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and
> made it available to the world.
>
> I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version
> will fit nicely on a desktop.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> MaggiRos
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603: A handbook for writers, actors,
& re-enactors
ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
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otsisto wrote:
> http://tinyurl.com/4rk3xu
> I knew I would find the site with the other "farthingale styles.

Great collection. You can get a little information about the images by holding 
the cursor over them, and some show you closeups (but not all, and not all the 
linked ones work).

The unanswered question: Of the very few that show the farthingale worn alone 
(without an overskirt), are any meant to show a 15th c. Spanish woman in 
realistic fashion? Some of the images are clearly religious, allegorical, 
historical, or foreign. Of course this may in part reflect the nature of the 
available art -- much of which was religious or allegorical. One or two of 
them may represent women deliberately shown in a state of semi-undress.

There doesn't seem to be as much of a problem with the images that show the 
farthingale as a partially visible underlayer; it looks like at least some are 
realistic.

Number of images is one thing, and of course that has to be where to start. 
But context is the next question. I have on occasion found hundreds of 
depictions of a style that I still could not in good faith argue was routinely 
worn in life, because in essentially every image the choice of garment had a 
clear rhetorical significance in context. To answer the question of whether 
the Spanish farthingale with visible hoops, worn as the outer layer, was ever 
a real fashion for real women -- and, if so, when and where and by whom -- a 
researcher would need to gather dozens or hundreds of images and look at them 
with an eye to subject matter, medium, region, and time period. There's a 
really good paper topic for someone who cares about this fashion! (I've done 
it for some other fashions, but not this one.)

--Robin
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Emma, this is definitely not underwear and it has nothing to do with  
Salome herself.  It's more of a fad among the well-to-do, from  
roughly 1470 to 1500, in Spain.  My guess is that the artist used  
this style of dress to indicate that Salome was a lady of high rank.   
(My Bible dictionary says that she was the king's stepdaughter; she  
danced for the king and his dinner guests so probably NOT naked.)

There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough]  
"Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530" by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the  
author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by  
garment type to show the development of styles.  It's a great place  
to get started if you're interested in this era.

Suzanne

> Date: June 10, 2008 10:43:20 AM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left, http:// 
> www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is  
> generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of farthingale/ 
> virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the "Look, first the hoops were  
> worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an underskirt and  
> hidden" interpretation.  I was thinking about the allegorical  
> aspect of religious art.
>
> Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the  
> head of John the Baptist.
>
> Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to  
> hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on  
> the outside?  (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the  
> ladies behind her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of  
> hoops on the outside?
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Emma

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>  There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough]
>  "Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530" by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the
>  author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by
>  garment type to show the development of styles.  It's a great place
>  to get started if you're interested in this era.

And it's more than just a picture book;) There are samples of texts
that collaborate what is seen in art.

There are examples real people wearing what the saints do in the
artwork and vice versa- to a degree anyway, there are probably symbols
in the costume to signify these are important people from the past. I
have seen hoops on figures depicting real women but they had the four
panel over skirt on top.

More hoops as per the Salome image:
http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099
While the ladies are probably depicted in such a way that they would
read as antique or foreign to the intended audience the hooped skirts
themselves do match to the texts very well. One fashion was to have
hoops contrast in colour as ell as texture. Apparently a deep red
(crimson I think) and green were a favourite combination. This is from
Hispanic Costume and the author comparing the colours in several text
(inventories and wardrobe accounts etc.)

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
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michaela de bruce wrote:
>>  There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough]
>>  "Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530" by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the
>>  author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by
>>  garment type to show the development of styles.  It's a great place
>>  to get started if you're interested in this era.
> 
> And it's more than just a picture book;) There are samples of texts
> that collaborate what is seen in art.

It sounds like that's the book to have. Textual analysis adds a world of meaning.

> There are examples real people wearing what the saints do in the
> artwork and vice versa- to a degree anyway, there are probably symbols
> in the costume to signify these are important people from the past. I
> have seen hoops on figures depicting real women but they had the four
> panel over skirt on top.

And that brings us back to the question that started this discussion: Whether 
it was a popular fashion to wear the hoop skirt alone, rather than an underlayer.

> More hoops as per the Salome image:
> http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099

Although this is another Biblical image, it does make me think that perhaps 
the key is not simply real vs. biblical/historical/allegorical, but also the 
nature of the setting and the mood the artist wanted to evoke. This appears to 
be a Birth of Mary image, and the scene takes place in the confines of a 
lady's chamber, with only other ladies in attendance. That's a circumstance 
where it might make sense for upper-class women to be without their formal 
overgowns.

It may be that showing these women without overskirts reflects the artist's 
intent to show the intimacy of the scene. If so, the style might be "real," 
but that doesn't mean it would be considered fashionable for women to have 
appeared in hoops without overskirts on the street, or at dinner, or at church.

Among the handful of other images shown so far of women in hoops without 
overskirts was a camp follower (what some would call a "laundress") with 
soldiers -- it was hard to make out detail, but perhaps she was deliberately 
portrayed as such to give the overtone of half-dress or intimacy (or lack of 
modesty!)

I think there's very likely a layer of meaning here that viewers of the 
artwork would have understood -- just as people in some not-so-distant 
cultures would read loads of meaning in the presence and number of aprons a 
woman wore. Or think about styles for men of a century ago, and the difference 
between depicting one in a full suit, as opposed to with his jacket off and 
shirt-sleeves showing. In any of these contexts, artists could use the 
recognized implications of layers of dress to signify something about the 
setting or the characters.

The 15th c. Flemish painters did as much with the recurring presentation of 
women in short-sleeved underdresses, worn without a formal overdress, with or 
without added sleeves to cover the chemise sleeves on the lower half of the 
arms. You never see this in formal portraits, but you do see the style on 
realistic working women, AND on upper-class women in private scenes (in fact, 
I can think of one in another Birth of Mary), AND also as visual code to 
signify certain Biblical figures (notably Mary Magdalen).

Does Anderson say anything about the circumstances in which the hoop-alone 
style appears in artwork, or does she just refer to it as one option of 
wearing the clothing, without discussion of the context in which that would 
have been done?

--Robin

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Your computer added < and > to it so that I had to cut and paste. Was no
problem.

-----Original Message-----
Oh dear! I didn't think it was going to break or I'd have tiny'd it myself.
Thanks!



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This has been my wallpaper for a long time but with a much more grainy
version.  I hope to be wearing something like one of the middle class gowns
(green with a red petticote this weekend!

Thanks you!!!!!

Regina

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From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown
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Dear All
My daughter needs a new Elizabethan gown for our Shakespeare Ball in
mid-July. I have made the 'most scrumptious' sleeves but with other
commitments don't think I have enough time to make a full court gown
at this stage and should think about a doublet. When web browsing last
night I looked at doublets and didn't see any that had sleeves, they
were mostly sleeveless worn over a linen shirt. I'd hate to leave off
these sleeves, so am asking here if anyone has seen highly ornate
sleeves worn with doublets anywhere. The sleeves are 3-paned purple
velvet with couched gold cord, white trim and gold beads.
Also on this topic, she does not like the idea of the doublet done up
at the neck, and she cannot wear a ruff as she is a musician on the
night playing violin. Do you think it ok to leave open?
Many thanks,
Aylwen
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Thank you, Michaela!!  I haven't seen this image before.  [Now, do I  
know anyone going to Barcelona...?]

Suzanne

> From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
> Date: June 10, 2008 7:44:34 PM CDT
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

> <message trimmed >

> More hoops as per the Salome image:
> http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099
> While the ladies are probably depicted in such a way that they would
> read as antique or foreign to the intended audience the hooped skirts
> themselves do match to the texts very well. One fashion was to have
> hoops contrast in colour as ell as texture. Apparently a deep red
> (crimson I think) and green were a favourite combination. This is from
> Hispanic Costume and the author comparing the colours in several text
> (inventories and wardrobe accounts etc.)
>
> Michaela
> http://glittersweet.com

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Robin, I think you are pushing this argument too far.  There are too  
many women in this scene for them *all* to be attendants.  What I see  
here is the custom of visiting the mother following delivery to  
congratulate her on a safe and happy outcome -- some of these ladies  
have just arrived, so they're not in a state of undress.  In fact, I  
would expect them to be wearing their best on a visit of such  
ceremonial importance.

There is another image, IIRC in a museum in France (will provide  
reference later), showing Isabella and her ladies in similar gowns  
with a sort of loose sleeveless overgown, open down the front.  Such  
an overgown would suggest that the gown with hoops on the outside is  
a fashionable garment and not something that is intended to be hidden.

Suzanne

> From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
> Date: June 10, 2008 9:12:35 PM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>

> <message trimmed>

> Although this is another Biblical image, it does make me think that  
> perhaps the key is not simply real vs. biblical/historical/ 
> allegorical, but also the nature of the setting and the mood the  
> artist wanted to evoke. This appears to be a Birth of Mary image,  
> and the scene takes place in the confines of a lady's chamber, with  
> only other ladies in attendance. That's a circumstance where it  
> might make sense for upper-class women to be without their formal  
> overgowns.
>
> It may be that showing these women without overskirts reflects the  
> artist's intent to show the intimacy of the scene. If so, the style  
> might be "real," but that doesn't mean it would be considered  
> fashionable for women to have appeared in hoops without overskirts  
> on the street, or at dinner, or at church.
>
<trimmed again>
>
> --Robin

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She can't just wear a doublet. She must wear something to cover the lower  
half of the body. Do you already have trunk hose of something? If you must make  
a skirt anyway, it seems to me a gown bodice is easier than a doublet. A gown 
 out of amazing fabric would take less time than a doublet. In many ways more 
 adjustable. Look at a gown that laces up both side back seams....like in 
Orazio  Gentileschi's "Lute Player" ...which is a little past half way on this  
page:
 
_http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/bio/g/gentiles/orazio/biograph.html_ 
(http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/bio/g/gentiles/orazio/biograph.html) 
 
 
 
Imagine that in a fabulous fabric....with your fabulous sleeves tied on as  
well.
 
Boning could be done with something like Rigelene on a muslin  flatlining. Of 
course I'm thinking you already have a chemise and petticoat  laying around 
somewhere.
 
Anyway, don't discount a gown.
 
There is in Janet Arnold a doublet gown for a small girl [but looks just  
like an adult gown] with hanging sleeves and real sleeves....or at least lacing  
holes for real sleeves. But it buttons up right to the standing collar....and  
across one shoulder too if I am remembering  correctly.



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In a message dated 6/11/2008 8:10:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/bio/g/gentiles/orazio/biograph.html


***********
 
 
I'm sorry.... you have to hit "Works" apparently to get to the images of  
paintings.



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Suzanne wrote:
> Robin, I think you are pushing this argument too far.

Actually, I'm trying not to make an argument at all! My point is that you 
can't look at images in isolation. You have to look at a lot of them -- in 
context, and in combination.

As I've said several times, I don't know much about Spanish fashion, and I 
haven't looked comprehensively at this style in Spanish art. So I have been 
raising the questions I would want to see answered before I formed an opinion 
on how the garment was worn (if I were doing that research): Are there 
sufficient examples of the style, how do they show it being worn, in what 
circumstances, by what women? What patterns arise that might indicate either 
actual fashion, or the use of costume by artists in an unrealistic way to 
achieve a goal?

Artists *do* use fashions in this way, particularly in the 15th century. Yet 
way too often, people (even authors of respected books) take a few images and 
describe the costume in them as routine wear by fashionable women, without 
considering the patterns evident in the artwork.

I raised several scenarios: The hooped skirt worn alone might be fashionable 
wear (but the images offered so far don't include much in the way of examples 
that present that straightforwardly, like portraits). It might be an 
indication of informal or intimate circumstances, presented either 
realistically (e.g. on the camp follower and a few other images) or to evoke a 
particular implication for a narrative scene (as is often done in religious or 
historical paintings). It might be associated with certain 
historical/religious/allegorical figures. And it's possible all of these 
things are true, but at different times -- e.g. fashionable wear for decade or 
two, then passing into art and thereafter used for certain iconographical 
scenes or characters long after real people stopped wearing it that way.

>  There are too  
> many women in this scene for them *all* to be attendants.  What I see  
> here is the custom of visiting the mother following delivery to  
> congratulate her on a safe and happy outcome -- some of these ladies  
> have just arrived, so they're not in a state of undress.  In fact, I  
> would expect them to be wearing their best on a visit of such  
> ceremonial importance.

That is certainly one possible reading, and it's based on your own 
expectations and assumptions of what would happen in the event being depicted. 
But before you decide what's going on in the picture, it's helpful to look at 
other depictions of the same scene. I may be wrong, but I have guessed that 
this is the Birth of Mary -- not just because of the presence of haloes on 
certain figures, but because the layout of the picture is very much like that 
of other paintings from this period of the Birth of Mary by artists elsewhere 
in Europe. The artists followed certain patterns and conventions. And in 
Flanders, right about this time, I know of at least one painting that shows a 
sizable number of women attending Mary's birth, in a very similar layout. And 
at least some of them are wearing noticeably informal dress. I haven't held 
the two up next to each other to see differences and similarities -- I frankly 
don't have time or interest to dig out the other image (which could be 
anywhere in a long row of books), or a bunch of other Birth-of-Mary images, 
which is what should be done -- but just from my knowledge of the genre I can 
tell you the parallel is strong enough that anyone wanting to figure out 
what's going on in this scene, and what conventions were routinely followed 
among artists, should be looking at other examples and considering them. It 
also helps to know that there was a huge traffic of art between Burgundy and 
Spain in this period, so you see a lot of echoes from one place to the other.

> There is another image, IIRC in a museum in France (will provide  
> reference later), showing Isabella and her ladies in similar gowns  
> with a sort of loose sleeveless overgown, open down the front.  Such  
> an overgown would suggest that the gown with hoops on the outside is  
> a fashionable garment and not something that is intended to be hidden.

And that's exactly the sort of information-gathering I'd hope anyone would do 
in the process of determining who (if anyone) wore the fashion, and in what 
circumstances. A handful of portraits of real women wearing hoop skirts 
without an overlayer would balance the handful of images we've seen in which 
the style is potentially being used as artistic code.

Slight confusion, though: If there's an overgown in that picture, then this 
isn't an example of the "hoops worn without an overgown," is it? I don't think 
anyone -- certainly not me -- has suggested that the hooped skirt was meant to 
be hidden completely. We've already seen a wide range of examples of the 
hooped skirt visible as an underskirt; the elusive images are those of it 
being worn with nothing at all over it. If you thought I was suggesting that 
the hooped skirt was never meant to show at all, I can see why you thought I 
was pushing way too far. But I never thought that, said it, or sugggested it.

The original poster asked a very specific question: Was the hooped skirt, in 
life, ever worn on the outside as fashionable wear on its own, rather than 
being clearly used as an underskirt, partially visible (or completely hidden) 
beneath an overskirt? She pointed to one image that is often used as proof of 
"fashionable wear" in this manner that is patently unreliable for several 
reasons (Salome). And while other people have offered a lot of additional 
examples of hooped skirt images -- with and without overskirts -- individual 
examples still don't answer the question of who wore it, in what manner, and when.

(Emma, if I misunderstood your original question, please set me straight.)

How many images do you need to feel safe drawing a conclusion? It's not a 
question of number, but proportion. The more examples you have of the style in 
question, the better you can determine whether the preponderance of them are 
in potentially nonrealistic contexts, or whether there's as much 
representation in realistic contexts as you'd see with other styles of this 
period.

Personally, as it stands, I truly can make no guess as to what *was* done, 
because I haven't done the kind of study I'm suggesting that someone else (who 
cares about this fashion more than I do) should do. But it will take more than 
pointing out a few examples in paintings.

--Robin
not trying to be difficult, just giving a historian's perspective

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown
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Really easy is a loose gown. More like a sleeveless robe. Worn over a
chemise, of course, but that can be a white/cream shirt with  the collar cut
off so just the collar band is on. Tie on the gorgeous sleeves you've made
to the armholes in 3 places, leaving the underarm loose. Later, you can make
a matching underskirt.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 4:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown

Dear All
My daughter needs a new Elizabethan gown for our Shakespeare Ball in
mid-July. I have made the 'most scrumptious' sleeves but with other
commitments don't think I have enough time to make a full court gown at this
stage and should think about a doublet. When web browsing last night I
looked at doublets and didn't see any that had sleeves, they were mostly
sleeveless worn over a linen shirt. I'd hate to leave off these sleeves, so
am asking here if anyone has seen highly ornate sleeves worn with doublets
anywhere. The sleeves are 3-paned purple velvet with couched gold cord,
white trim and gold beads.
Also on this topic, she does not like the idea of the doublet done up at the
neck, and she cannot wear a ruff as she is a musician on the night playing
violin. Do you think it ok to leave open?
Many thanks,
Aylwen
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>  don't think I have enough time to make a full court gown at this
> stage and should think about a doublet.

Actually, "Court Gown" doesn't necessarily mean a low necked bodice  
and skirt, any more than the modern "evening gown" means any specific  
style.  It's a description of the level of richness and  
ornamentation, not the cut or style of the garment.  A court gown  
could be a low necked bodice and skirt or it could a doublet bodice,  
probably with a matching skirt for this level of formality till quite  
late in the century.  It could also be a loose gown, which is like a  
coat that flares from the shoulders, or a fitted gown, which fits  
closely to the body and may or may not have a waistline seam.

I agree with Albert that a doublet would probably be more, not less,  
work than a simple fitted bodice and skirt.  Don't futz around with  
trimming details if you're short of time: find a beautiful brocade  
and let it do the work for you. This style is seen in a number of  
period paintings of female musicians, so it seems particularly  
appropriate here.

As to wearing the collar open, I would say yes, especially for a  
musician who needs ease of movement.  It was good enough for Mary,  
Queen of Scots, who was painted several times wearing a shirt or  
smock with a large ruff worn open.

Margo
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From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Thanks for this idea, it could be the best thing. She has an older
green dress that is too tight that I need to alter some stage, she is
in this photo at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/renaissance.jpg
with the violin. If I make a lose gown in purple it can be worn over
the green when I make it larger for her.
Thanks, Aylwen

2008/6/12 Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:
> Really easy is a loose gown. More like a sleeveless robe. Worn over a
> chemise, of course, but that can be a white/cream shirt with  the collar cut
> off so just the collar band is on. Tie on the gorgeous sleeves you've made
> to the armholes in 3 places, leaving the underarm loose. Later, you can make
> a matching underskirt.
> Sharon C.
>
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
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> michaela de bruce wrote:
>>>  There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough]
>>>  "Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530" by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the
>>>  author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by
>>>  garment type to show the development of styles.  It's a great place
>>>  to get started if you're interested in this era.
>>
>> And it's more than just a picture book;) There are samples of texts
>> that collaborate what is seen in art.
>
> It sounds like that's the book to have. Textual analysis adds a world of 
> meaning.
>
>> There are examples real people wearing what the saints do in the
>> artwork and vice versa- to a degree anyway, there are probably symbols
>> in the costume to signify these are important people from the past. I
>> have seen hoops on figures depicting real women but they had the four
>> panel over skirt on top.
>
> And that brings us back to the question that started this discussion: 
> Whether
> it was a popular fashion to wear the hoop skirt alone, rather than an 
> underlayer.
>
>> More hoops as per the Salome image:
>> http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099
>
> Although this is another Biblical image, it does make me think that 
> perhaps
> the key is not simply real vs. biblical/historical/allegorical, but also 
> the
> nature of the setting and the mood the artist wanted to evoke. This 
> appears to
> be a Birth of Mary image, and the scene takes place in the confines of a
> lady's chamber, with only other ladies in attendance. That's a 
> circumstance
> where it might make sense for upper-class women to be without their formal
> overgowns.
>
> It may be that showing these women without overskirts reflects the 
> artist's
> intent to show the intimacy of the scene. If so, the style might be 
> "real,"
> but that doesn't mean it would be considered fashionable for women to have
> appeared in hoops without overskirts on the street, or at dinner, or at 
> church.
>
> Among the handful of other images shown so far of women in hoops without
> overskirts was a camp follower (what some would call a "laundress") with
> soldiers -- it was hard to make out detail, but perhaps she was 
> deliberately
> portrayed as such to give the overtone of half-dress or intimacy (or lack 
> of
> modesty!)
>
> I think there's very likely a layer of meaning here that viewers of the
> artwork would have understood -- just as people in some not-so-distant
> cultures would read loads of meaning in the presence and number of aprons 
> a
> woman wore. Or think about styles for men of a century ago, and the 
> difference
> between depicting one in a full suit, as opposed to with his jacket off 
> and
> shirt-sleeves showing. In any of these contexts, artists could use the
> recognized implications of layers of dress to signify something about the
> setting or the characters.
>
> The 15th c. Flemish painters did as much with the recurring presentation 
> of
> women in short-sleeved underdresses, worn without a formal overdress, with 
> or
> without added sleeves to cover the chemise sleeves on the lower half of 
> the
> arms. You never see this in formal portraits, but you do see the style on
> realistic working women, AND on upper-class women in private scenes (in 
> fact,
> I can think of one in another Birth of Mary), AND also as visual code to
> signify certain Biblical figures (notably Mary Magdalen).
>
> Does Anderson say anything about the circumstances in which the hoop-alone
> style appears in artwork, or does she just refer to it as one option of
> wearing the clothing, without discussion of the context in which that 
> would
> have been done?
>
> --Robin
>

I couldn't help noticing in the early link with loads of images
(http://jessamynscloset.com/15thgallery.html) that the Salome
with outside hoops is from a Catalan picture, and the Salome
with hoops on the underskirt is from Madrid (not Catalan). Further
down there's another image of a fairly ordinary looking woman (dating
from nearly 100 yrs later mind you) who also looks like she's got her
hoops on the outside and is listed as being from Barcelona (ie Catalan).
Catalonia has always been a pretty independent part of Spain (it was part
of the Kingdom of Aragon at the time of the Salomes). Is it possible that 
the
hoops on the outside are a Catalan fashion?

Claire 

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Claire Clarke wrote:

> I couldn't help noticing in the early link with loads of images
> (http://jessamynscloset.com/15thgallery.html) that the Salome
> with outside hoops is from a Catalan picture, and the Salome
> with hoops on the underskirt is from Madrid (not Catalan). Further
> down there's another image of a fairly ordinary looking woman (dating
> from nearly 100 yrs later mind you) who also looks like she's got her
> hoops on the outside and is listed as being from Barcelona (ie Catalan).
> Catalonia has always been a pretty independent part of Spain (it was part
> of the Kingdom of Aragon at the time of the Salomes). Is it possible that 
> the
> hoops on the outside are a Catalan fashion?

Regional variation would make a huge lot of sense, if the pattern continues to 
hold!

The Birth of Mary at http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 
mentioned earlier also appears to be Catalan, if I'm interpreting the caption 
correctly (but I don't read the language).

Someone who has more time than I do, and who cares about this, might want to 
comb the rest of the examples at that site. The Catalan medieval paintings 
appear to be accessible by clicking the keyword link below the picture that 
reads "Gotico Catalan Pintura." The very first link appears to be more 
artworks from the Barcelona Museum of Catalan Art, and there's another similar 
link further down (Museo Nacional de Arte de Cataluna) that might be the same 
or a different museum.

If the Catalan identification holds, the next step would be to look at the 
spread of images within Catalan art to see whether there is an 
overskirt/underskirt distinction there too, or whether the preponderance of 
representations show the hoops as overskirts, which would then imply a 
regional style. You'd want to verify that the style crosses religious/secular 
boundaries in art (as opposed to still being associated with iconographic 
images) and whether it's peculiar to certain class levels and/or 
circumstances. Another useful step would be to see whether the pattern holds 
in other media, such as sculpture or tapestry, which would really strengthen 
the argument.

I know, real easy for me to plot out someone else's research project. 
Obviously we have to deputize someone from this list to go spend a month in 
Barcelona art collections...

--Robin
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Does anyone know of an exact date when fan front bodices were introduced in 
the 1840s?

Thanks, Serena 

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In a message dated 6/11/2008 11:12:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lists@margospatterns.com writes:

It was  good enough for Mary,  
Queen of Scots, who was painted several times  wearing a shirt or  
smock with a large ruff worn  open.



******************
 
 
Yeah....but look what happened to her!



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In a message dated 6/12/2008 12:02:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
aylwengg@gmail.com writes:

http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/renaissance.jpg



******************
 
Nice group. The green gown is lov-er-ly.



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In a message dated 6/12/2008 8:12:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 


**********************
 
 
Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with the horizontal lines  on 
her skirt, but no hoops?



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Earlier. In that big tome from the Kyoto Museum "Fashion", there's an  1830's 
gown with a fan front. Page 192....dated C.  1835.



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I noticed that - she also appears to have a loose-fitting over-gown  (brown) 
with elbow-length sleeves and a slit neckline.  Quite different  from anyone 
else.  
 
Catherine  
 
In a message dated 6/12/2008 11:03:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099  

**********************

Did y'all notice the servant in the left  corner with the horizontal lines on 
her skirt, but no  hoops?







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From: Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net>
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I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use it.Lllynn

Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com> wrote:  > least one figure in the Herod scene has a close front bodice and if
> you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
> Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
> I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
> Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.
>

Thanks for the help. What really caught my eye was the portrait of
Juana la Loca. I looked for a bodice in the 1490s that carried out
that theme. I have the kirtle underneath. The bodice is cut out and
the eyes bought for the laces. I have a lot of embroidery throughout.
I have most of my good gowns with closed bodices, lacing in the back,
side, front. I wanted something I had nothing of for some special silk
a friend brought me back from China. I have had to study completely
new cuts and ideas for this. I love the ideas.
-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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Low class copycat.  There's always one.  You get a great idea and then all the hoi polloi want to ape their betters....
 
Laurie(who is, in fact, the hoi polloi and apes her betters almost constantly)
 
 
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts> > > http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 > > > > Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with the horizontal lines on > her skirt, but no hoops?> > > 
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In a message dated 6/12/2008 11:51:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
laswa@hotmail.com writes:

Low  class copycat.


*****************
 
Really! Just look at her Moorish inspired  headdress.



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> Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with the horizontal lines  on 
> her skirt, but no hoops?

You know, when this discussion started, I looked at the pictures and thought 
to myself, "What if that isn't hoops on the outside but a tiered skirt with 
banding at the hem of each tier?" 

In that case, might not a servant be wearing a fashion similar to the upper 
class folks, but without the added luxury of the hoops?  Perhaps a castoff 
dress from her mistress? 

 -Helena 



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> I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use it.Lllynn

Side or side back would be my bet. You see either in Italian and
Flemish art of a time just before and after and much later in the
16thC Alcega has a pattern for a kirtle with bodice that has the
closure side back (the front and back bodice pieces are on the fold,
same with front and back of the skirt).

http://www.alfayomega.es/estatico/anteriores/alfayomega336/enportada/ep_reportaje2.html
This is the image I mentioned earlier that shows hoops worn by real
people but that has the open gown.
What is interesting about this image is that it shows a high waist.
There is a legend that the hoops came about to hide a pregnancy.
Doesn't this high waist with hoops support this idea rather more than
a regular waisted garment? No idea if it is true or not but I could
believe the rumour started after seeing this particular style!

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts [long]
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There've been a number of intriguing comments on this thread.  To go  
back to the beginning, Emma asked about this picture, which she found  
in a discussion concerning the development of the farthingale:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ 
Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_John_Retable.jpg

and her question was, "Salome was supposed to have danced naked  
before she asked for the head of John the Baptist.  Is it possible  
that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to hint at this  
nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the outside?   
(if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies behind  
her?)  Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on the  
outside?"

I suggest that we break up the question into 2 parts:
(1)  WHO was Salome?  In the 21st century, what does "everybody know"  
about her?  In the 15th century, what did "everybody know" about her?
(2)  WHAT is she wearing in this depiction?  Is this style ever seen  
any where else?  Does it have an iconographic meaning?

To start with question #1, I'd like to re-iterate the point that  
several people made, which is that the Bible story never says that  
Salome took her clothes off.  It just says that the king was pleased  
with the girl's dance, offered to give her anything she asked for,  
and she ran to her mama to ask what she should say.  (Since her mama  
hated John the Baptist, she took advantage of the situation to have  
the guy put to death.)  That doesn't sound much like a femme fatale.   
We don't even know how old she was!

In fact, the earliest depictions of Salome as lascivious dancer that  
I was able to find in a quick search of my university library catalog  
date to the late 19th century in France.  It appears that the story  
of Salome appealed to a number of arty types and they all had their  
own re-telling of the story -- Flaubert, Mallarme, Wilde [his play,  
Salome, was originally written in French], etc. -- which involved  
some sex and obsessive behavior, and then Richard Strauss was  
inspired to write an opera based on Wilde's version, and finally  
there was a turn-of-the-20th-century entertainer in London (Maud  
Allan) who made her name doing a scandalous version of Salome's  
"dance of the 7 veils" which was probably inspired by the then- 
current literary and operatic versions.  I haven't investigated the  
Hollywood history of Salome but I'll bet it was equally fantasy-based.

So, what did people in the 15th century "know" about Salome?  They  
may have known that Salome was the stepdaughter of the king; they  
probably knew that John the Baptist had been preaching against the  
morals of the court and the queen was infuriated by his comments.   
Without the creative license of Strauss, et al., would they have  
imagined Salome as a woman of questionable virtue?  I don't know.   
The only medieval versions I've seen of this scene are set at the  
king's banquet.  If the viewer didn't "know" that Salome was doing a  
strip-tease then the viewer would see a girl of the noble family  
appearing at court, IMO.  Other viewpoints welcome, of course.  We  
can all learn from each other.  :-)

Going on to question #2, since the painting in question shows  
everyone fully dressed, right down to their hair and jewellery, I  
don't see any reason to re-interpret this as an informal scene.  And  
for reasons that I stated yesterday, I don't believe that the other  
[non-Salome] depictions shared by list-members need to be interpreted  
as informal scenes.  The image that provoked this discussion even  
seems to be embellished with 3-dimensional gold chains on the  
principal characters, which makes me think it is very formal indeed.   
If you look at the images in the link that otsisto sent

http://tinyurl.com/4rk3xu

you'll see many that appear in Anderson's book on Hispanic Costume.   
That work is generally considered to be a standard in the field and I  
don't remember Anderson suggesting that the verdugada is an  
undergarment.  But I'd be happy to have input from folks who've  
studied this period!  It seems to me that this is a short-lived  
fashion that is worthy of further study.  Most of the evidence dates  
from 1470-1495 -- and we're still fascinated by it centuries later!

Suzanne
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On Thursday 12 June 2008 9:23:35 pm Suzanne wrote:

[snipping most]

> If you look at the images in the link that otsisto sent
>
> http://tinyurl.com/4rk3xu
>
> you'll see many that appear in Anderson's book on Hispanic Costume.
> That work is generally considered to be a standard in the field and I
> don't remember Anderson suggesting that the verdugada is an
> undergarment.  But I'd be happy to have input from folks who've
> studied this period!  It seems to me that this is a short-lived
> fashion that is worthy of further study.  Most of the evidence dates
> from 1470-1495 -- and we're still fascinated by it centuries later!

What impresses me about the images in the Villani article (the link otsisto 
sent) is how many of them show a bodice in the same color/pattern as the 
fabric of the obviously hooped skirt being worn with them.  That may be one 
of the better arguments in favor of the idea that skirts were, however 
briefly, worn with the hoops showing on the outside as a fashion statement.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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I am fishing for some info, and thought, ah-ha! H-Cos can help!   My friend
MaggiRos specifically suggested Robin Netherton, but I know there are some
other experts out there.  So, folks, here I go.

I am preparing a class for the Costumers' Guild West's Costume College 2008
on Irish Headdresses.  My focus period is the 16th century, the point at
which Irish culture is crumbling and giving way to English-ness.

The head coverings of Irish women are very old-fashioned, and include veils
and wimples.  Not to mention those silly hats!  I know a little about veils
and almost nothing about wimples.  So, the question is, does anyone know any
good sources for the shapes of veils and wimples being worn in the
mid-to-late 15th C. and how they work?

Thanks (and credit will be given for assistance),
Regina in L.A.
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Regina Voorhes wrote:
> I am fishing for some info, and thought, ah-ha! H-Cos can help!   My friend
> MaggiRos specifically suggested Robin Netherton, but I know there are some
> other experts out there.  ...

I certainly hope so, because I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about Irish 
veils and wimples in the 15th and 16th centuries!

Surely there's someone else on the list who does, though. You might also 
contact Kass McGann at Reconstructing History, as she does Early Modern Irish.

--Robin
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Back to Salome again, but only briefly, as I am loaded with work and will not 
be able to pursue this thread further (I spent way too much time online this 
week).

Suzanne wrote (among many other things in a very thoughtful and helpful post):

 > I suggest that we break up the question into 2 parts:
 > (1)  WHO was Salome?  In the 21st century, what does "everybody know"
 > about her?  In the 15th century, what did "everybody know" about her?
 > (2)  WHAT is she wearing in this depiction?  Is this style ever seen
 > any where else?  Does it have an iconographic meaning?

That last question is probably even more important than the first one. What 
people knew about a religious character or story in the 15th century is the 
starting point; the key element for our purposes (interpreting an image) is 
how that knowledge became translated -- and cemented -- in artwork. And 
iconographic conventions don't always match historical, religious, or 
theological understanding. Sometimes they are holdovers from earlier eras. 
Sometimes they are the result of confusion. (Consider the images of Catherine 
of Alexandria that show her with a wedding ring in the "Mystic Marriage." 
Whoops -- that's Catherine of Siena's story. Oh well.)

So, before I would feel comfortable stating what is going on in a picture like 
this one, I'd want to be reasonably familiar with how artists of that place 
and time handled that particular scene, so I could determine what elements of 
the scene were routinely repeated, and how this artist followed that 
convention, and where he chose to depart from it.

I'm afraid I don't know Salome images from 15th c. Spain. And I have not made 
a significant study of Salome depictions overall (as I have with some other 
figures). However, I do know enough Salome representations from elsewhere and 
elsewhen in Europe to hazard some guesses on *possibilities* that may be at 
play in the mind of a 15th c. artist.

Salome might be considered, and represented, as:
  -- a historical figure
  -- a religious figure
  -- a foreigner
  -- an evildoer (I know, she was just doing what her mother said, but she's 
still seen as an evildoer because she was instrumental in John the Baptist's 
death)
  -- a dancer
  -- a princess.

Thus a medieval artist might draw on any of these themes in dressing Salome; 
the choice would depend in large part on what was customary for presentations 
of that scene in his place and time.

More than one of these devices might be present at once. I have seen a c. 1300 
English illumination that depicts Salome as a "dancer" in one panel (and this 
is where "informal" dress comes into play, as she was wearing only an 
undergown in that scene) and as a "princess" in the adjacent panel, on the 
same page. In early 15th c. France, the Limbourg brothers gave her an odd 
little tiara (which might have meant "foreigner" or might have meant 
"princess"; it's hard to tell), and dressed her in a currently fashionable 
gown but added stripes of a type that, elsewhere in the book, appear on 
Biblical/historical/exotic figures -- and, interestingly, on a couple of 
dancing girls. (The history of stripes as a real-life marker for prostitutes 
may be relevant here as well.) Yet I have seen many, many people look at this 
Salome image and assume that because the gown is of the fashionable style, the 
stripes must be evidence of contemporary fashionable decoration. No -- they 
are some sort of marker for her character.

It would be quite extraordinary for Salome to be unmarked in 15th c. Spanish 
art; there is certainly something, maybe many things, about her dress in this 
scene that are there specifically to differentiate her from the contemporary 
fashionable woman. But without knowing what is considered normal, and what 
shows up in other religious art, and particularly what shows up in other 
Salome scenes, I can only guess at which elements are the ones you cannot 
trust. The hoop skirt might be one such element. Or it might not -- it might 
be currently fashionable dress in the Catalan style. The point is, this 
picture will never tell us, because Salome's depiction is deviant by 
definition. By the time you know enough (from a study of other artwork) to 
know how to interpret it, you'll have better evidence from elsewhere. Other 
artwork could eventually show us how to interpret Salome's dress, but Salome's 
dress can't tell us much in itself.

This post is already longer than I intended, so I'll add just one small 
clarification. Suzanne wrote:

 > Going on to question #2, since the painting in question shows
 > everyone fully dressed, right down to their hair and jewellery, I
 > don't see any reason to re-interpret this as an informal scene.  And
 > for reasons that I stated yesterday, I don't believe that the other
 > [non-Salome] depictions shared by list-members need to be interpreted
 > as informal scenes.

It seems I was not clear in what I meant by "informal." I was not referring to 
the *scenes* as informal situations. I was referring to a manner of wearing 
dress (in this case, an undergown without the overgown that would be added for 
full formal dress). Artists have been known to use this device to make a 
point. The painting I was talking about was the Birth of Mary, a scene in 
which (in some Flemish examples of this period that may overlap with Spanish 
artistic convention) the absence of the formal overgown in a gathering of 
women attending a childbirth helps signal the intimacy and privacy of a scene.

The Flemish painters, and others, also used that same "informal" dress in many 
other contexts. Realistically, it can indicate a working woman, or a 
prostitute, or a person in great distress. Less realistically, it became the 
"uniform" for Mary Magdalen among some Flemish painters, probably for a 
variety of reasons, some related to the circumstances just noted.

I agree that the Salome *scene* is not informal, and don't think I said it 
was. However, I have seen Salome depicted elsewhere in what is recognizably 
not-formal dress, specifically when presented in the role of dancer. As I 
explained several posts ago (at least I think I tried to), it is not 
impossible that this form of dress may have been become part of the "Salome" 
identification, copied and elaborated on from one image to the next, and over 
time became used by some artists to represent "Salome" regardless of what 
scene she appeared in. You see the same thing happen with many other 
characters -- i.e. elements of costume are used to identify certain people 
even if (in real life) that person would not have been wearing that style in 
that particular situation. (An obvious example is the depiction of a king or 
queen in bed, naked or in a shift, but still wearing a crown.) Is this what 
happened -- as Emma first wondered -- with Salome in what was supposed to be 
seen as an undergown? I have no idea! But I think it's a possibility worth 
considering and investigating, even if it turns out wrong.

I have raised a lot of those possibilities. They certainly can't all be right. 
They might all be wrong. I'm not arguing for any of them. I am, however, 
trying to make the point that when you look at dress in religious or 
historical paintings, there's a lot going on that can't be explained by the 
logic of the situation being depicted.

About the one thing I *can* state with certainty (and really the only point 
I've been hoping to make in this whole thread) is that I don't think it's wise 
to use a handful of examples, most of which have religious or iconographical 
contexts, as evidence for fashionable wear. Before you can figure out whether 
those examples are reliable representations, you need a lot more study of 
*other* artwork (and literary and historical evidence about dress if 
available) ... which, in this case, I am not going to do. But perhaps someone 
else reading this who is interested can use the suggestions I posted as a 
source of ideas for what to look at in chasing this down.

(And I do think that the Catalan angle would be well worth investigating.)

--Robin
never one to make things simpler
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On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 11:21 AM, Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use it.Lllynn
>
Juan de Alcega was printed in a later period, however the styles
seemed not to move much in Spain after the beginning of the 15th c.
There were many different styles, they were the leaders at the time.
The Hispanic Costume Book shows where they fasten up with an open
front, closed laced front, back  and side closures. I can't see what
kind of closures.
Yes, many of them with the over "robe" and high waist look like they
could be pregnant, even the children. What a good coverup.

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about  
Vecellio's costume book, "The clothing of the Renaissance world:  
Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi  
et Moderni" by Margaret F. Rosenthal & Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames &  
Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.  *Only* $91.25!  ;-)

Suzanne 
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----- Original Message ----
From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: [h-cost] "Clothing of the Renaissance World"

FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about=A0 =

Vecellio's costume book, "The clothing of the Renaissance world:=A0 =

Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi=A0 =

et Moderni" by Margaret F. Rosenthal & Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames &=A0 =

Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.=A0 *Only* $91.25!=A0 ;-)

Suzanne<<<<<
Whoa! Thank goodness I pre-ordered it a while back when it was listed at $7=
8.75!
=A0

=A0
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net =




      Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
www.yahoo7.com.au/mail
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I was interpreting her as wearing trousers, actually, though the size of the webbed picture makes any firm conclusions on her outfit premature.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:

> > 
> > http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 
> 
> 
> **********************
>  
>  
> Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with
> the horizontal lines on her skirt, but no hoops?



      
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Hi,

I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD

Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume books are to be found?

Thanks for any tips,

Zuzana

 


___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 






       
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to 
>some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read 
>about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot 
>of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand 
>costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to 
>make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>
>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the 
>costume books are to be found?
>
>Thanks for any tips,
>
>Zuzana

Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find 
second hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells 
costume books for certain is R.D. Franks, 
(http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion trade 
book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion student 
orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.)

As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each area 
of London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky.

Sorry not to be more helpful.

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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What about Waterstones? I got a lot there last time i were in London. As i 
recall it its in a street next to Oxford Street?
I got both costume related and embroidery related books there, and i thoaght 
they had a nice collection.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library


> At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some 
>>library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at 
>>amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, 
>>maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books 
>>(any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list what 
>>to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>>
>>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume 
>>books are to be found?
>>
>>Thanks for any tips,
>>
>>Zuzana
>
> Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find second 
> hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells costume books 
> for certain is R.D. Franks, (http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a 
> specialist fashion trade book shop, so there is a lot of modern 
> tailoring/fashion student orientated content. (I was disappointed when I 
> went last.)
>
> As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each area of 
> London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky.
>
> Sorry not to be more helpful.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 12:26 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>What about Waterstones? I got a lot there last time i were in 
>London. As i recall it its in a street next to Oxford Street?
>I got both costume related and embroidery related books there, and i 
>thoaght they had a nice collection.

That always depends on the stocking policy of the manager - sometimes 
you get lucky - I haven't!!

Suzi


>Bjarne
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:10 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
>
>
>>At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to 
>>>some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read 
>>>about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a 
>>>lot of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some 
>>>second hand costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see 
>>>the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>>>
>>>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the 
>>>costume books are to be found?
>>>
>>>Thanks for any tips,
>>>
>>>Zuzana
>>
>>Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find 
>>second hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells 
>>costume books for certain is R.D. Franks, 
>>(http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion 
>>trade book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion 
>>student orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.)
>>
>>As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each 
>>area of London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky.
>>
>>Sorry not to be more helpful.
>>
>>Suzi
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Well, last time I was in London I had just one day  - Saturday, and the R.D.Franks bookshop was not open and then I was probably late to get to the largest London bookshop on Piccadilly:-( All other bookshops I visited (Charing Cross rd etc.) had only a small collection of costume books. The best place to buy such books was the V&A museum shop. But I thought there must be another place with many costume books? There should be at least one larger library, or art-oriented library... We have one central library in Prague where you can find almost any Czech book, so I thought there will be one in London, too?

Zuzana


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
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At 13:11 14/06/2008, you wrote:

>Well, last time I was in London I had just one day  - Saturday, and 
>the R.D.Franks bookshop was not open and then I was probably late to 
>get to the largest London bookshop on Piccadilly:-( All other 
>bookshops I visited (Charing Cross rd etc.) had only a small 
>collection of costume books. The best place to buy such books was 
>the V&A museum shop. But I thought there must be another place with 
>many costume books? There should be at least one larger library, or 
>art-oriented library... We have one central library in Prague where 
>you can find almost any Czech book, so I thought there will be one 
>in London, too?
>
>Zuzana

Not that I know of, and I have lived in London since 1971. And I'm 
told that my personal library is better than most of the colleges' 
libraries - and they teach costume!

Suzi

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Ha! I found the V&A museum has a library or what - The national Art library?
I'm searching the catalogue and it seems they have most books I'd like to look at.
They say it's situated in the V&A museum...I hope they would let me in:-)

Zuzana


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If you have the time, you could take the train down to Bath.
The museum of Costume, Bath has a large museum shop, packed with all kinds 
of costume related books.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 10:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] London public library


> Hi,
>
> I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some 
> library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at 
> amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, 
> maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books 
> (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list what 
> to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>
> Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume 
> books are to be found?
>
> Thanks for any tips,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
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At 14:51 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>Ha! I found the V&A museum has a library or what - The national Art library?
>I'm searching the catalogue and it seems they have most books I'd 
>like to look at.
>They say it's situated in the V&A museum...I hope they would let me in:-)
>
>Zuzana


It used to be such a pain getting a reader's ticket that I forgot 
about it. Haven't used it for 25 years, so I hope it has changed for 
the better. You used to have to wait such ages to get the books you 
wanted too, I never thought of checking out books I wanted to buy.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
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Hi - Jean here, I've changed my email address again!

The British Library, in their new building at St Pancras, is the 
National Deposit Library, which gets a copy of every book published in 
Britain.  But you can't really just turn up and look at stuff, you have 
to prove you have a serious reason for research and apply for a reader 
pass... a lot of hassle!  http://www.bl.uk/services/reading/reading.html

Jean

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Well, last time I was in London I had just one day  - Saturday, and the R.D.Franks bookshop was not open and then I was probably late to get to the largest London bookshop on Piccadilly:-( All other bookshops I visited (Charing Cross rd etc.) had only a small collection of costume books. The best place to buy such books was the V&A museum shop. But I thought there must be another place with many costume books? There should be at least one larger library, or art-oriented library... We have one central library in Prague where you can find almost any Czech book, so I thought there will be one in London, too?
>
> Zuzana
>
>
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>        
> _______________________________________________
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It could have been that the hoop stiffener was not rigid, like whalebone,
but rope or cord, which is what early hoops were made of.  They would fold
like that when sitting. Somewhere on a site I just recently saw (which I do
not remember) is a picture of a woman wearing rope hoops that fold just like
the one shown in the painting.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 6:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

I was interpreting her as wearing trousers, actually, though the size of the
webbed picture makes any firm conclusions on her outfit premature.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:

> > 
> > http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099
> 
> 
> **********************
>  
>  
> Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with the horizontal 
> lines on her skirt, but no hoops?



      
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Actually, I am searching for info on veils and wimples for any country in
Europe, in the period.  I think the Irish just kept wearing the same thing
on their heads with appropriately silly additions, after everyone else moved
on to hats.  It's the basics of veils and wimples I  need,  if anyone can
point me at resources.

Thanks,
Regina in L.A.


> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 23:45:02 -0500
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Beyond the Veil?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4851FB4E.5050302@netherton.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Regina Voorhes wrote:
> > I am fishing for some info, and thought, ah-ha! H-Cos can help!   My
> friend
> > MaggiRos specifically suggested Robin Netherton, but I know there are
> some
> > other experts out there.  ...
>
> I certainly hope so, because I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about
> Irish
> veils and wimples in the 15th and 16th centuries!
>
> Surely there's someone else on the list who does, though. You might also
> contact Kass McGann at Reconstructing History, as she does Early Modern
> Irish.
>
> --Robin
>
>
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You can search some British libraries online before you go to see what they have in there collections.  Here are a couple of links:

British library (some branches in London)  http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/?func=file&file_name=login-bl-list
V&A  National Art Library  http://catalogue.nal.vam.ac.uk/

Museum of London http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/English/Collections/OnlineResources/  and 
http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/English/Collections/1700Today/Dress-fashion.htm  I'm not sure if these can be searched, but they do 
have a large online bookstore.

Costume Museum at Bath  www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/  or http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/  Neither of these are working just now for me 
to get the search link, but I *think* you can search the collection, and I'm sure they have an online bookstore.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com


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I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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On Saturday 14 June 2008 10:52:57 pm otsisto wrote:
> I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
> other than a partlet?

A fairly short veil.  Or, perhaps, a coif of some kind.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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I would use the silk gauze as a covering layer for embroidered sleeves. I don't know if that would be enough, tho'.

Not sure about the netting at all... 

Kimiko


--- On Sat, 6/14/08, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>

> I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item
> can I make of it
> other than a partlet?



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to do.
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The white silk is light weight and though it is said to be a gauze it is not
very see through. Too flimsy for a coif and not see through enough to have
embroidery show through. The netting on the other hand is somewhat see
through.
This is the silk gauze. it is lightweight and I thought it was going to be
sheer and it aint.
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=QQ574
This shows the netting silk but in red
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=AA034

-----Original Message-----
I have 1yd x 45" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Can somebody enlighten me with what is silk zibeline? Is it the same as duchesse silk satin?

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk zibeline
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*From Wikipedia....*

*
*

*Zibeline* is a thick, soft fabric <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloth> with
a long nap <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nap_%28textile%29>. It is usually
made of wool <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wool>, such as
mohair<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohair>or
alpaca <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpaca>, but can also be made from the
hair of other animals, such as camels <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camel>.

Zibeline can also refer to either the sable<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sable>(
*Martes zibellina*) or its pelt, which zibeline was originally made from.


On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 10:22 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews <
drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

> Can somebody enlighten me with what is silk zibeline? Is it the same as
> duchesse silk satin?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Here's also a picture:

http://en.texsite.info/index.php/Zibeline%3B_zibeline

This site has an advantage that it's in many languages - a good thing if you need to translate some textile term:-)

Zuzana


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Sartor...custom-made costumes
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Use it as the puffs in pinked or slashed sleeves for a tudor or elizabethan!
You may have to double it or put some cotton wool behind it so it will stay
puffy, but it would work.

Maybe the netting would work over emboridered sleeves.
     MaggiRos
-- 
Maggie Secara
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603: Elizabethan commonplaces for
writers, actors, & re-enactors
ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 4:15 AM, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> The white silk is light weight and though it is said to be a gauze it is
> not
> very see through. Too flimsy for a coif and not see through enough to have
> embroidery show through. The netting on the other hand is somewhat see
> through.
> This is the silk gauze. it is lightweight and I thought it was going to be
> sheer and it aint.
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=QQ574
> This shows the netting silk but in red
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=AA034
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I have 1yd x 45" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
> other than a partlet?
> I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
> to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
> netting?
>
> De
>
>
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otsisto wrote:
> The white silk is light weight and though it is said to be a gauze it is not
> very see through. Too flimsy for a coif and not see through enough to have
> embroidery show through. 
>   

At this point in my life I'd be making either a fairy costume or using 
it for a dance costume. However, for something historic I think I'd go 
with making chemise sleeves to be worn under a sleeveless or multi-part 
sleeved Italian gown, for summer.


Dawn


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Around Christmas, somebody was talking about a St.
Stephen (?) pin cushion that they had been given. Came
from a web-site with similar type nifty gifty
products. I bookmarked the site and now can not find
it. Does anybody remember this? 

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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I dont remember the conversation, but could it be these people - 
http://www.simplyscissors.com/ ?

Serena

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 11:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] pincushion


> Around Christmas, somebody was talking about a St.
> Stephen (?) pin cushion that they had been given. Came
> from a web-site with similar type nifty gifty
> products. I bookmarked the site and now can not find
> it. Does anybody remember this?
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
>
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat 
> folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 15:55:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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No, not the same, but WOW!! Those are some really neat
sissors!!

This site offered gifts of a more humorous nature.
T-shirts, mugs, misc items.

--- Serena Dyer <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk> wrote:

> I dont remember the conversation, but could it be
> these people - 
> http://www.simplyscissors.com/ ?
> 
> Serena
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 11:41 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] pincushion
> 
> 
> > Around Christmas, somebody was talking about a St.
> > Stephen (?) pin cushion that they had been given.
> Came
> > from a web-site with similar type nifty gifty
> > products. I bookmarked the site and now can not
> find
> > it. Does anybody remember this?
> >
> > Rebecca Burch
> > Center Valley Farm
> > Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> >
> > The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the
> ones between the flat 
> > folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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REBECCA BURCH wrote:
> Around Christmas, somebody was talking about a St.
> Stephen (?) pin cushion that they had been given. Came
> from a web-site with similar type nifty gifty
> products. I bookmarked the site and now can not find
> it. Does anybody remember this? 

St. Sebastian. I was the lucky recipient. It's here:

http://www.philosophersguild.com/index.lasso?page_mode=Product_Detail&item=0195

--Robin
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> I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
> other than a partlet?
> I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a 
> partlet
> to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
> netting?
>
> De
>
>
You could make a little butterfly veil to go with one of those 'flowerpot'
hennins from the latter half of the 15th century.

As for the silk netting, even though I also have nowhere to wear anything 
other
than pre-1600's, I would save it up towards making an Edwardian evening
dress - one of those with multiple layers of satin and lace and net and 
hideous
complicated fastenings.

Claire 

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Subject: [h-cost] Yuan Dynasty (Chinese/Mongolian) costume?
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Hi guys,

I'm trying to recreate a Yuan dynasty outfit for my husband. He's 
especially interested in the Mongolian "plaited garment" (pg. 140 of 
5000 years of Chinese Costume). Apparently, it has "a broad band made of 
plaited threads [...] sewn to the waist." They have a sketch of the 
back, I believe, and a picture of a pottery figurine from Jiaozuo, Henan 
Province showing the front, sort of.

Does anyone have any more information on this garment? Googling was 
spectacularly unsuccessful and I can't find another picture of the 
pottery figurine that shows the back.

On a side note, they also have a cute four-sided hat that goes with it, 
which I looked at then realized they were the identical shape to our 
bedside lamp shades. A trip to the home improvement store is obviously 
needed!

Thanks.
           --Kathy
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d995e66f0806141319h1ff6f7f7r759bd0fdc6d36976@mail.gmail.com>
	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEPDKHAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 19:03:30 -0700
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Make oversleeves, if it's translucent enough. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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Can you make a gauze ruff?
 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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6:02 PM

_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 19:27:24 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Fabulous stuff, but how do you order anything from them? They won't even
send me more information because I'm an "unauthorized domain".

MaggiRos

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:36 PM, Serena Dyer <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
wrote:

> I dont remember the conversation, but could it be these people -
> http://www.simplyscissors.com/ ?
>
>
>

-- 
Maggie Secara
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603: Elizabethan commonplaces for
writers, actors, & re-enactors
ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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I meant, how do you order from http://www.simplyscissors.com/

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 7:27 PM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:

> Fabulous stuff, but how do you order anything from them? They won't even
> send me more information because I'm an "unauthorized domain".
>
> MaggiRos
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:36 PM, Serena Dyer <
> serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> I dont remember the conversation, but could it be these people -
>> http://www.simplyscissors.com/ ?
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Maggie Secara
> A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603: Elizabethan commonplaces for
> writers, actors, & re-enactors
> ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9




-- 
Maggie Secara
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603: Elizabethan commonplaces for
writers, actors, & re-enactors
ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
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Had not thought of that but I think the gauze is to flimsy and would require
too much starch.

Thank you,
De

-----Original Message-----

Can you make a gauze ruff?


-----Original Message-----
I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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:) I have been toying with making a Burgundian.
The "netting" as they labeled it looks more like very fine and flimsy Aida
cloth.
One of the reasons I do not like ordering fabric online is because I can not
handle it or see it up close.
The White silk was suppose to be for a Venetian partlet. Thinking gauze =
sheer,..nope.
The cream was for a 1920s but the weave isn't right so I am going to make
out of some of it a partlet to coordinate with fabric for a cream and white
Venetian V-gown. Now all that needs to be decided with the latter is who
will it be made for. If I can find someone to help fit me, it will be mine.
Otherwise it will be made for a friend.

Thank you,
De

-----Original Message-----

You could make a little butterfly veil to go with one of those 'flowerpot'
hennins from the latter half of the 15th century.

As for the silk netting, even though I also have nowhere to wear anything
other
than pre-1600's, I would save it up towards making an Edwardian evening
dress - one of those with multiple layers of satin and lace and net and
hideous
complicated fastenings.

Claire

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I recently purchased a great short fur coat for $10, unfortunately, it smells of body odor and cigarette smoke. How do I get this smell out of the fur? I had thought of brushing baking soda through it, letting it sit for a while in a bag, then vacuuming it out and then letting it sit again with some aromatic herb sachets. Will this work or should I do something else?

Thanks, Marion
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to remove smells from fur?
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>I recently purchased a great short fur coat for $10, unfortunately, it 
>smells of body odor and cigarette smoke. How do I get this smell out of the 
>fur? I had thought of brushing baking soda through it, letting it sit for a 
>while in a bag, then vacuuming it out and then letting it sit again with 
>some aromatic herb sachets. Will this work or should I do something else?
>
>

I think I've read that cornmeal can be used on fur, but personally, I'd have 
it professionally cleaned. If it was just the smoke smell, you could air it 
out on a covered porch or clothesline, but body odor means sweat and skin 
oils.

Denise B 

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Marion McNealy wrote:
> I recently purchased a great short fur coat for $10, unfortunately, it smells of body odor and cigarette smoke. How do I get this smell out of the fur? I had thought of brushing baking soda through it, letting it sit for a while in a bag, then vacuuming it out and then letting it sit again with some aromatic herb sachets. Will this work or should I do something else?
>   
Fur will mostly sort itself out with sun and clean air. If you can hang 
it on the back porch on a breezy day the fresh air will do wonders. If 
there's gunk on the fur, a wet washcloth (just like you were cleaning up 
a messy puppy) will help get it clean.

The lining, however, may need washing. Or replacing.

What kind of fur is it? And what kind of lining? I have a full length 
rabbit coat with a polyester lining, and I know from experience (having 
been caught in a downpour and soaked) that it can handle getting wet. It 
looked horrible wet, but it dried just by hanging in place, and was so 
nice a fluffy afterward.

If it's a jacket and the polyester lining is nasty, I'd be tempted to 
remove it and wash it, or replace it. (Take a pattern from the original).



Dawn

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I know this subject comes up from time to time, but I couldn't find if this 
particular one had been covered:

How do you get stains from underarm deodorant out of fabric? This isn't a 
sweat stain, but residue and discolouration from the deodorant itself.

Any ideas?

Sheridan P.


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What is the fabric in question?

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Shane Sheridan Chabot
<shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I know this subject comes up from time to time, but I couldn't find if this
> particular one had been covered:
>
> How do you get stains from underarm deodorant out of fabric? This isn't a
> sweat stain, but residue and discolouration from the deodorant itself.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Sheridan P.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stains
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One is 100% cotton, the other a poly/cotton blend. I also have a silk shift 
that is starting to have issues as well.

S


>From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stains
>Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:21:41 -0400
>
>What is the fabric in question?
>
>On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Shane Sheridan Chabot
><shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > I know this subject comes up from time to time, but I couldn't find if 
>this
> > particular one had been covered:
> >
> > How do you get stains from underarm deodorant out of fabric? This isn't 
>a
> > sweat stain, but residue and discolouration from the deodorant itself.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Sheridan P.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Marion McNealy <m_mc_nealy@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to remove smells from fur?
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Dawn wrote: 
What kind of fur is it? And what kind of lining? 

----------------
I haven't a clue on the fur, it *might* be a dyed rabbit, but I don't know.  The lining is poly and nasty. I think most of the smell is coming from it. I'll try removing it and airing it out well. If that fails, I'll take it in to get it professionally cleaned.

-Marion
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to remove smells from fur?
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At 16:36 16/06/2008, you wrote:
>Dawn wrote:
>What kind of fur is it? And what kind of lining?
>
>----------------
>I haven't a clue on the fur, it *might* be a dyed rabbit, but I 
>don't know.  The lining is poly and nasty. I think most of the smell 
>is coming from it. I'll try removing it and airing it out well. If 
>that fails, I'll take it in to get it professionally cleaned.

When I was *much* younger, in the early 50's my grandma showed me how 
to clean fur using clean white breadcrumbs from an uncut loaf. It 
worked but was boring to do.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stains
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http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-remove-deodorant-stains.htm
Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Acetate, Burlap, Carpet/Synthetic, Carpet/Wool, Cotton,
Fiberglass, Linen, Rayon, Silk, Triacetate, Wool

Apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened
with alcohol (dilute alcohol with 2 parts water for acetate, Rayon, and
triacetate; test silk for colorfastness before using alcohol). Keep both
moist. Allow to stand as long as any stain is being removed. If the stain
remains (and as a last resort), flush (the method of applying stain remover
to loosen staining materials and residue from stain removers) with a
solution of warm sudsy water with a little ammonia added (use special care
on silk and wool). Rinse with clear water. Apply a solution of warm water
with a little white vinegar added, taking special care with this solution on
cotton and linen. Rinse again with clear water. Dry thoroughly. (If the
color of the fabric has been changed, it may possibly be restored by
sponging (the method of using light strokes with a dampened pad working
outward from the center of the stain) lightly with a solution of 2 parts
water and 1 part ammonia.) Caution: Never iron material with a deodorant
stain. The combination of chemical and heat interaction will ruin most
fabrics.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Acrylic Fabric, Modacrylic, Nylon,
Olefin, Polyester, Spandex

Most deodorant stains can be removed by pretreating (the method of applying
a stain-removing agent directly to the stained area before laundering) with
a liquid detergent or prespotter such as Shout Liquid Laundry Stain Remover
and launder as usual. If the stain doesnt seem to be loosening with the
pretreatment, rinse out the detergent and flush with white vinegar. Rinse in
clear water. If the stain remains, flush the area with denatured alcohol.
Rinse with clear water and dry or launder as usual.

or
http://tinyurl.com/5eev4g

silks
http://cleaning.tips.net/Pages/T0144_Removing_Stains_from_Silk.html

http://tinyurl.com/6nouu3


-----Original Message-----
One is 100% cotton, the other a poly/cotton blend. I also have a silk shift
that is starting to have issues as well.

S


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Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 13:07:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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That's it exactly!  Thank you.

--- Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:

> REBECCA BURCH wrote:
> > Around Christmas, somebody was talking about a St.
> > Stephen (?) pin cushion that they had been given.
> Came
> > from a web-site with similar type nifty gifty
> > products. I bookmarked the site and now can not
> find
> > it. Does anybody remember this? 
> 
> St. Sebastian. I was the lucky recipient. It's here:
> 
>
http://www.philosophersguild.com/index.lasso?page_mode=Product_Detail&item=0195
> 
> --Robin
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Marion McNealy wrote:
> I recently purchased a great short fur coat for $10, unfortunately, it smells of body odor and cigarette smoke. How do I get this smell out of the fur? I had thought of brushing baking soda through it, letting it sit for a while in a bag, then vacuuming it out and then letting it sit again with some aromatic herb sachets. Will this work or should I do something else?

When in doubt, try the old theatrical wardrobe trick (but start with a 
test swatch). Mix up equal parts vodka and water. Put in a spray-mister. 
Mist the lining lightly. Let air out. Repeat. I'm not sure how the fur 
and skin itself would stand up to this, though, if you did the outside too.

Another good trick is to put it in a closet with one of those Sharper 
Image ionic air cleaners for a few days. We did that with a very smoky 
leather jacket and the smell just went away.

andy
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I'm interested in playing with Regency England fashions but know almost 
nothing about them. Can anyone recomend a good book or two on this topic?

Margaret 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yuan Dynasty (Chinese/Mongolian) costume?
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On Sunday 15 June 2008 8:57:18 pm kathysmassmail@verizon.net wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm trying to recreate a Yuan dynasty outfit for my husband. He's
> especially interested in the Mongolian "plaited garment" (pg. 140 of
> 5000 years of Chinese Costume). Apparently, it has "a broad band made of
> plaited threads [...] sewn to the waist." They have a sketch of the
> back, I believe, and a picture of a pottery figurine from Jiaozuo, Henan
> Province showing the front, sort of.
>
> Does anyone have any more information on this garment? Googling was
> spectacularly unsuccessful and I can't find another picture of the
> pottery figurine that shows the back.

Chances are that any sites that would be useful to you are Chinese language 
sites, and unless you read Chinese you can't really Google effectively for 
those.  There are, in general, very few English-language sites on the costume 
history of Asian cultures.

However, after looking at the pictures to which you referred, I'd say that 
there's probably a bit of a translation issue here.  The picture looks 
like "pleated" fabric not "plaited" (or braided) threads.  In fact, the 
period figurine they provide a picture of looks as though he's wearing a 
buckled garment with straps over his long skirted tunic more than anything 
else.
 

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: [h-cost] Book Sale
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I am having a book sale from our in-house library collection.  You can find the book listing at: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/BOOKS_TO_SELL.htm .   This list is changing daily, so please check the listing often.  Daily, I am adding books and deleting them from the list as they sell.  I have already had three people want the same book.  In cases like that, I will sell to the person who emails me first.

If you would like to purchase any of the books, email me at penny@costumegallery.com .  Shipping is the actual cost to your home or business.   When you email me, make sure to include your name, mailing address, and a phone number if located in the U.S.  Please make sure to copy and paste the title of the book and include it in your email. Terms of sale are located at the bottom of the book list webpage.

Someone asked today if I was going out of business.  I am staying in business, as I have since 1996.  I'm not retiring for several more years.   I have wanted to do this type of sale for several summers.  Now seems to be a good time to have the sale.  

I hope you enjoy the sale! 
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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Experiment on some scraps with borax & eucalyptus oil with a mild water rinse --
 it will move everything except an ex-wife,

-C.


------------------------------------------------------------
This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yuan Dynasty (Chinese/Mongolian) costume?
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"Plaited" is the old term for what we now call "Pleated". 
"Threads" was an informal term for fabric or clothing.

I guessing that the description of that photo was written a *long* time ago, and the editor didn't think to update the language.
 
Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

> I'm trying to recreate a Yuan dynasty outfit for my husband. He's
> especially interested in the Mongolian "plaited garment" (pg. 140 of
> 5000 years of Chinese Costume). Apparently, it has "a broad band made of
> plaited threads [...] sewn to the waist." They have a sketch of the
> back, I believe, and a picture of a pottery figurine from Jiaozuo, Henan
> Province showing the front, sort of.
>
> Does anyone have any more information on this garment? Googling was
> spectacularly unsuccessful and I can't find another picture of the
> pottery figurine that shows the back.



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> I'm interested in playing with Regency England fashions but know almost 
> nothing about them. Can anyone recommend a good book or two on this 
topic?

I just finished a regency dress :-) (you can see it here: 
http://sbuchler.livejournal.com/61788.html ) 'cause of that I have an 
enormous regency book collection...none of which is with me at the moment, 
so I'm going to list my favorites from memory:

For basic construction "getting started" advice, I'd turn to:
Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860_
Jean Hunnisett's _Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's 
Dress 1800-1909_

>From a pretty pictures/good read standpoint I'd turn to:
_Fashion_ published by the Kyoto Institute (not much text, and it's not 
specific to regency, but the regency dresses are well worth drooling over 
;-) and it has all the photos that the earlier _Revolution in Fashion 
1715-1815_ had, but it's lots cheaper the pictures in the 1-volume and 
2-volume sets are the same as far as I can tell.)
Katell le Bourhis' _The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to 
Empire, 1789-1815_ (only useful for French fashions, but has interesting 
text and beautiful pictures)
_In Royal Fashion_ (this isn't as generally useful, as it's an analysis of 
Princess Charlotte's and Queen Victoria's wardrobes, but the text is 
fascinating, the pictures are beautiful, and it's not that often you get 
to analyze the wardrobe for an individual)
_Ackermann's Costume Plates_ published by Dover (this is pretty cheap, and 
gives a nice smattering of the late-regency fashion plates)
Nancy Bradfield's _Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930_ (this is 
all re-drawings of extant garments, but it shows how the clothes are 
fastened and other useful bits that are generally hard to see when looking 
at either the pattern or photos of the garments)
Penelope Byrde's _Jane Austen Fashion_ (this doesn't have much in the way 
of pictures but it does talk about how clothes were used/worn and has a 
good breakdown of accessories and all the bits and pieces that make up an 
outfit. Of the books, this is probably the best overview, if you combine 
it with something that has lots of pictures)

For one-stop-shopping overview, my favorite sources are all on-line:
http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/reg3.html (generally a really nice overview 
with portraits, extant garments and fashion plates, plus useful historical 
and cultural info)
http://www.demodecouture.com/realvict/ (pictures of extant garments)
http://www.songsmyth.com/costumerscompanion.html (useful breakdown of the 
parts that make up the outfits, plus reviews of patterns and pointers 
towards sources for accessories)

Hope that wasn't too much :-)
        -sunny
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 20:33:23 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] slightly OT forward from H-Museum
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I know some of you on h-costume are involved with historic house  
museums, but I don't know who among you might be on the H-Museum list  
so I'm forwarding this query to all.  [see below]
Suzanne


From: "Potvin, Ronald Matthew" <Ronald_Potvin@brown.edu>
Subject: Historic House Museum closings
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 10:19:20 -0400
--------------------------------------------------------

Hi all,

I am doing some research attempting to quantify the depth of the current
historic house museum "malaise" in the United States. Information about
attendance, finances, and staffing are available through various  
sources.
However, verifiable information about closings of house museums is more
difficult to obtain and is often anecdotal. Although I realize that
soliciting information in this fashion also is anecdotal in nature,  
these
examples will help me to identify the depth of the problem as well as  
the
factors that led to the closings. So, If anyone has heard of the  
closing or
failure of a historic house museum, especially a small historic house
museum, I would appreciate that information. Links to online articles or
journal citations would also be helpful. Thanks in advance.

Ron M. Potvin
Assistant Director & Curator
John Nicholas Brown Center
Box 1880, Brown University
Providence, RI 02912
401.863.1177
401.863.7777 fax

--
H-MUSEUM
H-Net Network for Museums and Museum Studies
E-Mail: h-museum@h-net.msu.edu
WWW: http://www.h-museum.net


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On Tuesday 17 June 2008 2:37:38 pm Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker wrote:
> "Plaited" is the old term for what we now call "Pleated".
> "Threads" was an informal term for fabric or clothing.
>
> I guessing that the description of that photo was written a *long* time
> ago, and the editor didn't think to update the language.

I knew about the older use of "plaited."  (See my post on the topic.)  
The "threads" explanation didn't occur to me, but it makes sense if we assume 
that the translator may have picked up English from...many different sources.  
Thanks.  




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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My husband sent this to me.  Has anyone seen this before?  
 
Thanks, 
Catherine    
 
Does anyone know where this picture comes from?  A fellow on  the Armour 
Archive is wondering.


I find the idea of a clearly noble lady tending a forge more than a  little 
jarring . . . 




 
____________________________________







**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Need the URL to the image.  I have a suspicion, but would like to verify.
Mari

2008/6/18  <CBellfleur@aol.com>:
>
> My husband sent this to me.  Has anyone seen this before?
>
> Thanks,
> Catherine
>
> Does anyone know where this picture comes from?  A fellow on  the Armour
> Archive is wondering.
>
>
> I find the idea of a clearly noble lady tending a forge more than a  little
> jarring . . .
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Sorry, I thought the image was imbeded in the e-mail.  I'll try  again.  
 
Catherine
 
In a message dated 6/18/2008 9:34:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
maricelt@gmail.com writes:

Need the  URL to the image.  I have a suspicion, but would like to  verify.
Mari

2008/6/18   <CBellfleur@aol.com>:
>
> My husband sent this to me.   Has anyone seen this before?
>
> Thanks,
>  Catherine
>
> Does anyone know where this picture comes  from?  A fellow on  the Armour
> Archive is  wondering.
>
>
> I find the idea of a clearly noble lady  tending a forge more than a  little
> jarring . .  .
>
>
>
>
>
>  ____________________________________







**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:45:33 -0400
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Ah, it probably is, but my GMail is stripping the image out.  Too bad.  Mari

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 9:37 AM,  <CBellfleur@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Sorry, I thought the image was imbeded in the e-mail.  I'll try  again.
>
> Catherine
>
> In a message dated 6/18/2008 9:34:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> maricelt@gmail.com writes:
>
> Need the  URL to the image.  I have a suspicion, but would like to  verify.
> Mari
>
> 2008/6/18   <CBellfleur@aol.com>:
>>
>> My husband sent this to me.   Has anyone seen this before?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>  Catherine
>>
>> Does anyone know where this picture comes  from?  A fellow on  the Armour
>> Archive is  wondering.
>>
>>
>> I find the idea of a clearly noble lady  tending a forge more than a  little
>> jarring . .  .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  ____________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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CBellfleur@aol.com wrote:

> Sorry, I thought the image was imbeded in the e-mail.  I'll try  again.  

I don't think the list allows images or attachments. Can you send us a URL?

Like Mari, I have a suspicion. Several, in fact. There are some well-known 
illuminations of women working a forge, mostly images from moral tales of 
long-ago good women, or the blacksmith's wife who forged the nails for the 
crucifixion, or some such. None of them, to my knowledge, are meant to be seen 
as representing real women blacksmiths.

The image of a woman at a forge I see reproduced most (e.g. in some of the 
Medieval Woman products) is from the allegorical romance Le Roman de la Rose. 
I'd have to look up the context of the image, but I can assure you the figure 
is not meant to be realistic. She has other symbolic elements to her dress, 
too, including a sideless surcote and a bare head with long flowing hair.

--Robin
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This website got mentioned on another list I subscribe to, and I thought 
some of you might like to see it.

 http://www.annegracie.com/writing/costumepage.htm

I had no idea bodices could be arranged that way!

Your fascinated,

Mary Piero Carey

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Jeb is trying to get the URL from the original poster.   I'll forward it as 
soon as he gets it.  Other lists I'm on strip  attachments, too.  
 
The description you gave (sideless, bare head/long hair) matches the  picture 
he sent me.  She is standing in front of the forge with tongs in  the fire.  
Her gown and the skirt of the sideless are a rusty-red color,  with the upper 
part of the sideless in ermine.  Cuffs on her gown are dark  (black?).  Three 
men are in the foreground hammering on a piece on the  anvil.  
 
Catherine 
 
In a message dated 6/18/2008 9:58:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

I don't  think the list allows images or attachments. Can you send us a  URL?

Like Mari, I have a suspicion. Several, in fact. There are some  well-known 
illuminations of women working a forge, mostly images from  moral tales of 
long-ago good women, or the blacksmith's wife who forged  the nails for the 
crucifixion, or some such. None of them, to my  knowledge, are meant to be 
seen 
as representing real women  blacksmiths.

The image of a woman at a forge I see reproduced most  (e.g. in some of the 
Medieval Woman products) is from the allegorical  romance Le Roman de la 
Rose. 
I'd have to look up the context of the image,  but I can assure you the 
figure 
is not meant to be realistic. She has  other symbolic elements to her dress, 
too, including a sideless surcote  and a bare head with long flowing  hair.

--Robin







**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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CBellfleur@aol.com wrote:

> The description you gave (sideless, bare head/long hair) matches the  picture 
> he sent me.  She is standing in front of the forge with tongs in  the fire.  
> Her gown and the skirt of the sideless are a rusty-red color,  with the upper 
> part of the sideless in ermine.  Cuffs on her gown are dark  (black?).  Three 
> men are in the foreground hammering on a piece on the  anvil.  

Yes, that's the one I'm seeing here in the Medieval Woman Book of Days, at 
November 12. There's a tiny detail of it there, but I know I've seen the full 
image in some other publications, probably in one of the MW calendars.

The Book of Days cites it as Roman de la Rose, Paris, Bibliotheque 
Sainte-Genevieve, MS 1125, fol. 115, but I believe that is wrong. The latter 
image (same book, earlier manuscript) is most likely the one seen here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/1862182937/

The one you describe (reproduced in the Book of Days) is clearly 15th c. I'm 
sure I have a better citation for the specific manuscript in one of my other 
books, but not at my fingertips and no time to hunt right now.

In any case, the figure is not real. It is the allegorical figure of Nature, 
who is described as making children at a forge. In the 15th c. image, she is 
dressed in symbolic "queen" costume, but crownless.

--Robin
feverishly editing MC&T vol. 5

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I wrote:

 > The Book of Days cites it as Roman de la Rose, Paris, Bibliotheque
 > Sainte-Genevieve, MS 1125, fol. 115, but I believe that is wrong. The latter
 > image (same book, earlier manuscript) is most likely the one seen here:
 > http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/1862182937/

Typo, sorry. The Sainte-Genevieve MS is 1126, not 1125. But still not the 
correct citation for the image you're asking about. Right book, wrong manuscript.

--Robin
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In a message dated 6/18/2008 10:19:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JBRMM266  
writes:

The  original poster sent me the URL:  
_http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm_ (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm)   







**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
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_______________________________________________
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Quoting CBellfleur@aol.com:

>
> In a message dated 6/18/2008 10:19:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JBRMM266
> writes:
>
> The  original poster sent me the URL:
> _http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm_   
> (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm)
>

If I had to guess, I'd say that was one of the illustrations from  
Christine de Pizan's "City of Women."  There are other such examples  
in that manuscript (like women building a house .....)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Susan Farmer wrote:

>> _http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm_  
>> (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm)
> 
> If I had to guess, I'd say that was one of the illustrations from 
> Christine de Pizan's "City of Women."  There are other such examples in 
> that manuscript (like women building a house .....)

I wrote a bit earlier that I had found a detail of the image (a close-up of 
just the lady) in the Medieval Woman Book of Days, attributed to a 14th c. 
Roman de la Rose. The Roman de la Rose does have a scene in which Dame Nature 
(an allegorical figure) is described as working at a forge, making new people 
to replace dead ones. However, the attribution line on the image in the Book 
of Days was clearly wrong, as this picture was obviously late 15th c. (I 
posted a link to the actual 14th c. picture, a much earlier rendition of 
Fortune at the forge.)

While I was waiting for that e-mail to come through on the list, I've been 
chatting with Cathy's husband Jeb, who posed the original question. Here's the 
gist of what I wrote to him (pertinent bits of several messages tidied up and 
combined):

---

Because the image was misattributed in the book I have, there is a slight 
possiblity this is not a Roman de la Rose, and thus not Dame Nature, but in 
any case the costume clearly signals an allegorical or symbolic presentation. 
So this can't be used as evidence for women blacksmiths, much less women 
blacksmiths in sideless surcotes with their hair down! For your purposes, 
though, the rendition of the forge and the blacksmithing tools, techniques, 
etc. is probably as accurate as any other image from the period.

[Then I saw the full image, which shows the rest of the shop, including three 
men making armor]

Having seen the full image, I think now that it is not the Roman de la Rose, 
but rather a scene from Boccaccio's "Livre des cleres et nobles femmes," of 
which there are quite a few illuminated manuscripts from this period. (I'd put 
this one around 1480-1500 offhand.) There's a scene in that book of a queen 
who supervises armourer-making or possibly helps make armour. I don't have the 
book handy so can't look up the story, but I know I've seen several 
illuminations of the scene.

---

Susan is right that there are a number of unrealistic images of queenly 
allegorical figures doing craft and building work in the Cite des Dames. (One 
of my favorites shows a queen doing bricklaying.) I don't recall any scenes of 
armor-forging in that context, though.

--Robin

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I believe there are several Roman de la Rose manuscripts.
One was illuminated 1350 France.

>From 15th century Roman de la Rose
http://www.mml.cam.ac.uk/gradstudies/eurolit/images/rose.jpg

Tapestry Roman de la Rose
http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/03/hm3_3_2_6a.html

The poem "Roman de la Rose" was written by Guillaime de Lorris in c1275. It
was a popular poem to illustrate.

-----Original Message-----
Susan Farmer wrote:

>> _http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm_
>> (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm)
>
> If I had to guess, I'd say that was one of the illustrations from
> Christine de Pizan's "City of Women."  There are other such examples in
> that manuscript (like women building a house .....)

I wrote a bit earlier that I had found a detail of the image (a close-up of
just the lady) in the Medieval Woman Book of Days, attributed to a 14th c.
Roman de la Rose. The Roman de la Rose does have a scene in which Dame
Nature
(an allegorical figure) is described as working at a forge, making new
people
to replace dead ones. However, the attribution line on the image in the Book
of Days was clearly wrong, as this picture was obviously late 15th c. (I
posted a link to the actual 14th c. picture, a much earlier rendition of
Fortune at the forge.)



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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses
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I believe the last dress pictures, the one with the pink buttons is in
Janet Arnold (Patterns of Fashion vol. I, p.58)

Katy

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 10:06 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey
<mary.doug@pierocarey.info> wrote:
> This website got mentioned on another list I subscribe to, and I thought
> some of you might like to see it.
>
> http://www.annegracie.com/writing/costumepage.htm
>
> I had no idea bodices could be arranged that way!
>
> Your fascinated,
>
> Mary Piero Carey
>
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses
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At 15:36 19/06/2008, you wrote:
>I believe the last dress pictures, the one with the pink buttons is in
>Janet Arnold (Patterns of Fashion vol. I, p.58)
>
>Katy

I believe Berrington Hall now contains what was the Snowshill 
Collection of Charles Wade. This was moved from one National Trust 
property, Snowshill, to another, which had more suitable premises. It 
would be wonderful if we could all see all of the collection. Much of 
it is drawn in "Costume in Detail" by Nancy Bradfield.

Just thought y'all would like to know that useless piece of information.

And thanks for sharing.

Suzi


>On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 10:06 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey
><mary.doug@pierocarey.info> wrote:
> > This website got mentioned on another list I subscribe to, and I thought
> > some of you might like to see it.
> >
> > http://www.annegracie.com/writing/costumepage.htm
> >
> > I had no idea bodices could be arranged that way!
> >
> > Your fascinated,
> >
> > Mary Piero Carey
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
>  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I want a book on 19th century costume with a combination of actual
photos as well as drawings like those in "Costume in Detail."

Katy

On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 10:43 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 15:36 19/06/2008, you wrote:
>>
>> I believe the last dress pictures, the one with the pink buttons is in
>> Janet Arnold (Patterns of Fashion vol. I, p.58)
>>
>> Katy
>
> I believe Berrington Hall now contains what was the Snowshill Collection of
> Charles Wade. This was moved from one National Trust property, Snowshill, to
> another, which had more suitable premises. It would be wonderful if we could
> all see all of the collection. Much of it is drawn in "Costume in Detail" by
> Nancy Bradfield.
>
> Just thought y'all would like to know that useless piece of information.
>
> And thanks for sharing.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>> On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 10:06 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey
>> <mary.doug@pierocarey.info> wrote:
>> > This website got mentioned on another list I subscribe to, and I thought
>> > some of you might like to see it.
>> >
>> > http://www.annegracie.com/writing/costumepage.htm
>> >
>> > I had no idea bodices could be arranged that way!
>> >
>> > Your fascinated,
>> >
>> > Mary Piero Carey
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
>>  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] T-Tunics -help fitting
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Hello everyone

I'm posed to start my pre-pennsic sewing spree (mostly for others as i have
jury duty starting july 28th!).  My husband has outgrown most of his old
garb AND is finally letting me make him something besides dells. Ok,  so
have I - outgrown my outfits, but that is priority at this point.

So he finally decided on just basic t-tunics and pants (but waits until
may/june to decide ARGH!), but i have small troubles with t-tunics,
hopefully ya'all will be as helpful with t-tunic questions as you are with
more complicated questions

question 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a fitting
challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on
http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always having
trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not too
big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly under
the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so
that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most grateful.
I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a trapazoid,
and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that
ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if you
want me to, I can post.

questiohn 2) I am looking for trim options.  Can anyone point me to their
fav pictures of t-tunics in art?

question 3) I am looking for pictures  of modern sca/recreaters in good
looking t-tuincs, can anyone point me to them on the web? I mean good/period
looking pictures, not the stupid looking i made my first piece of garb out
of some poly thing garb.  (my first garb was a skirt and ren fair chimes out
of ply so i am not trying to be critical, just that is not of which i am
looking for pictures.)

Thanks, Jordana
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] T-Tunics -help fitting
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One of the things I've done is make the main panel wider at the hem
and narrower at the shoulders (maybe only in the front panel) for the
guys with the gut.  I liken it to dealing with a pregnant women's
belly.  You don't necessarily need a wider back, just room in the
front. that keeps the gores on the sides the same size and the flow is
better.  I took this from looking at the diagrams of existent clothing
on Marc Carlson's site.

alex

On 6/19/08, J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> question 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a fitting
> challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always having
> trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not too
> big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly under
> the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so
> that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most grateful.
> I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a trapazoid,
> and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that
> ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if you
> want me to, I can post.
>


-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:20:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] T-Tunics -help fitting
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I solved the beer belly thing by adapting the
Cheesemaker Smock from Folkwear. Basically, the
shoulders are fitted to a yoke and the body is pleated
into the yoke. That way the shoulder seam didn't end
up at his elbows and the fabric didn't strain around
the middle. 

The pattern called for gathering, but I thought it
made too much of a balloon effect. So I ended up
tapering the body, so the top edge was about six
inches smaller than the bottom and I pleated the top
into the yoke. 

It is a little more trouble than a T-tunic, but you
don't have to repair the underarm rips quite as often.

--- J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone
> 
> I'm posed to start my pre-pennsic sewing spree
> (mostly for others as i have
> jury duty starting july 28th!).  My husband has
> outgrown most of his old
> garb AND is finally letting me make him something
> besides dells. Ok,  so
> have I - outgrown my outfits, but that is priority
> at this point.
> 
> So he finally decided on just basic t-tunics and
> pants (but waits until
> may/june to decide ARGH!), but i have small troubles
> with t-tunics,
> hopefully ya'all will be as helpful with t-tunic
> questions as you are with
> more complicated questions
> 
> question 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly,
> which is a bit of a fitting
> challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the
> basic construction on
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html,
> but i am always having
> trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that
> the shoulders are not too
> big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have
> to start directly under
> the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to
> gracefully manage t-tunics so
> that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i
> would be most grateful.
> I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but
> a more of a trapazoid,
> and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it,
> but I assume that
> ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would
> be the point, but if you
> want me to, I can post.
> 
> questiohn 2) I am looking for trim options.  Can
> anyone point me to their
> fav pictures of t-tunics in art?
> 
> question 3) I am looking for pictures  of modern
> sca/recreaters in good
> looking t-tuincs, can anyone point me to them on the
> web? I mean good/period
> looking pictures, not the stupid looking i made my
> first piece of garb out
> of some poly thing garb.  (my first garb was a skirt
> and ren fair chimes out
> of ply so i am not trying to be critical, just that
> is not of which i am
> looking for pictures.)
> 
> Thanks, Jordana
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Subject: [h-cost] Does anybody recognise...?
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A bit of a long shot, but does anybody recognise the below description of a  
sewing machine?  
 
There's a guy on another forum I post to who wants to learn to sew, but  he's 
having problems with working out how the threading mechanism works.
 
"a very old german machine ....it is fully metal less carry case painted  
grey and has EXZELLENZ written at the top but no numbers on it"
 
If anybody has any ideas / suggestions, ta
 
Debbie




   
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From: "J A Urbik" <jaurbik@gmail.com>
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That is a great idea!  The whole wider at the hem then at the shoulders is
what I have been doing, but it had not occurred to me to make the front
bigger/wider then back.  DUH to me!

On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 2:08 PM, Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@gmail.com>
wrote:

> One of the things I've done is make the main panel wider at the hem
> and narrower at the shoulders (maybe only in the front panel) for the
> guys with the gut.  I liken it to dealing with a pregnant women's
> belly.  You don't necessarily need a wider back, just room in the
> front. that keeps the gores on the sides the same size and the flow is
> better.  I took this from looking at the diagrams of existent clothing
> on Marc Carlson's site.
>
> alex
>
> On 6/19/08, J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > question 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a
> fitting
> > challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on
> > http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always
> having
> > trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not
> too
> > big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly
> under
> > the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so
> > that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most
> grateful.
> > I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a
> trapazoid,
> > and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that
> > ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if
> you
> > want me to, I can post.
> >
>
>
> --
> "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
> Friday..."  ;)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Yep, the average tunic is not made for those of us who are nonskinny!

The trapezoidal front and back panels are one good solution.  Another is 
to have side panels (the side gores/godets) which are not pointed, but 
have a few inches across the top.  They would start at the armhole, 
still, though, and require some finessing with the sleeves.

I find this a lot in modern clothing: I am fat, but my shoulders are 
still size 12; it's things from around my armpit and downwards that are 
size 22.  For float dresses, I order for my shoulders, because the rest 
will fit!

I know this list has had some other suggestions for plump folks and 
tunics; you might want to try searching the archives.

cv
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There are a number of Yahoo group specializing in sewing machine repair - some vintage...I would try there. 
http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=sewing+machine+repair
Sg



> From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:14:51 -0400
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Does anybody recognise...?
> 
>  
> A bit of a long shot, but does anybody recognise the below description of a  
> sewing machine?  
>  
> There's a guy on another forum I post to who wants to learn to sew, but  he's 
> having problems with working out how the threading mechanism works.
>  
> "a very old german machine ....it is fully metal less carry case painted  
> grey and has EXZELLENZ written at the top but no numbers on it"
>  
> If anybody has any ideas / suggestions, ta
>  
> Debbie
> 
> 
> 
> 
>    
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Suzi,
not at all "useless"!  Since my daughter is moving to England next  
week, I'm hoping to make a trip over myself in the next year.  Up-to- 
date info on museum collections is greatly appreciated.  :-)

Suzanne
[in Iowa but not in the flood plain]

On Jun 19, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Date: June 19, 2008 9:43:02 AM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses
>
<snipped for brevity's sake>

> I believe Berrington Hall now contains what was the Snowshill  
> Collection of Charles Wade. This was moved from one National Trust  
> property, Snowshill, to another, which had more suitable premises.  
> It would be wonderful if we could all see all of the collection.  
> Much of it is drawn in "Costume in Detail" by Nancy Bradfield.
>
> Just thought y'all would like to know that useless piece of  
> information.
>
> And thanks for sharing.
>
> Suzi

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Suzi wrote...

>I believe Berrington Hall now contains what was the Snowshill 
>Collection of Charles Wade. This was moved from one National Trust 
>property, Snowshill, to another, which had more suitable premises. It 
>would be wonderful if we could all see all of the collection. Much of 
>it is drawn in "Costume in Detail" by Nancy Bradfield.

I spend a week in South Shropshire every August and have visited Berrington Hall from there. I too wished that the costume collection was on display. I believe you have to make special arrangements to view it and only on certain days.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost]  T-Tunics -help fitting
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 Tunics are every where -did you have a certain time or place in mind? It's easier to get a good result if you are aiming at a specific idea ( Russian , Norman, etc). I wish I could find Tim Nalley's  (AKA Mordak) pattern. He has a similar body shape and has solved the issue beautifully. As I recall, one of his tunic patterns has the body piece cut in 3 long rectangles, instead of one. The seam runs  vertically (about over the nipples) and gores are placed in these seams. It's very graceful and allows for extra belly space. If you are interested, I'll ask Tim for more costuming information, he's a very good costumer and loves to share.

Here are some good patterns, many are based on extant garments
St Louis shirt
http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/index.html
The A tunic
http://housebarra.com/EP/ep06/14Atunic.html
Extant clothing with basic patter shapes
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html
Russian tunic with trapezoidal gores
http://costume.mashaholl.com/#shirt
Russian coat
http://genvieve.net/sca/ncoat.html

Susan

If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein


1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a fitting
challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on
http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always having
trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not too
big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly under
the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so
that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most grateful.
I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a trapazoid,
and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that
ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if you
want me to, I can post.



Thanks, Jordana


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I was in London last year and there was a lovely used bookstore across=A0th=
e street from the British Museum. Sadly the only thing I remember about the=
 name is it started with a Q. But they had a whole section about fashion in=
 the back next to the Art books. I wish I could be more helpful than that. =



----- Original Message ----
From: "h-costume-request@indra.com" <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 2:00:01 PM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 236

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
=A0=A0=A0 h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
=A0=A0=A0 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
=A0=A0=A0 h-costume-request@mail.indra.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
=A0=A0=A0 h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."


Today's Topics:

=A0 1. "Clothing of the Renaissance World" (Suzanne)
=A0 2. Re: "Clothing of the Renaissance World" (Bella)
=A0 3. Re: Farthingale thoughts (Ann Catelli)
=A0 4. London public library (Zuzana Kraemerova)
=A0 5. Re: London public library (Suzi Clarke)
=A0 6. Re: London public library (Leif og Bjarne Drews)
=A0 7. Re: London public library (Suzi Clarke)
=A0 8. Re: London public library (Zuzana Kraemerova)
=A0 9. Re: London public library (Suzi Clarke)
=A0 10. Re: London public library (Zuzana Kraemerova)
=A0 11. Re: London public library (Leif og Bjarne Drews)
=A0 12. Re: London public library (Suzi Clarke)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 19:13:44 -0500
From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: [h-cost] "Clothing of the Renaissance World"
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Message-ID: <6A133E88-3591-4600-824E-EB74BF42CB3D@cybermesa.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3DUS-ASCII; delsp=3Dyes; format=3Dflowed

FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about=A0 =

Vecellio's costume book, "The clothing of the Renaissance world:=A0 =

Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi=A0 =

et Moderni" by Margaret F. Rosenthal & Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames &=A0 =

Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.=A0 *Only* $91.25!=A0 ;-)

Suzanne =



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 18:27:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Clothing of the Renaissance World"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <333164.50008.qm@web31505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1

----- Original Message ----
From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: [h-cost] "Clothing of the Renaissance World"

FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about? =

Vecellio's costume book, "The clothing of the Renaissance world:? =

Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi? =

et Moderni" by Margaret F. Rosenthal & Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames &? =

Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.? *Only* $91.25!? ;-)

Suzanne<<<<<
Whoa! Thank goodness I pre-ordered it a while back when it was listed at $7=
8.75!
?

?
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net =




=A0 =A0 =A0 Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email addres=
s.
www.yahoo7.com.au/mail


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 18:35:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <911188.38238.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii

I was interpreting her as wearing trousers, actually, though the size of th=
e webbed picture makes any firm conclusions on her outfit premature.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:

> > =

> > http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=3D15099 =

> =

> =

> **********************
>=A0 =

>=A0 =

> Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with
> the horizontal lines on her skirt, but no hoops?



=A0 =A0 =A0 =



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 01:16:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] London public library
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Message-ID: <795077.66680.qm@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1

Hi,

I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some libra=
ry or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at amazon or o=
n this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, maybe some books=
 that are hard to get or some second hand costume books (any good shops?). =
I just want to see the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I =
am a poor student:-DD

Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume bo=
oks are to be found?

Thanks for any tips,

Zuzana




___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz =







=A0 =A0 =A0 =


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:10:53 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080614100342.0394d268@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed

At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to =

>some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read =

>about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot =

>of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand =

>costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to =

>make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>
>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the =

>costume books are to be found?
>
>Thanks for any tips,
>
>Zuzana

Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find =

second hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells =

costume books for certain is R.D. Franks, =

(http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion trade =

book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion student =

orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.)

As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each area =

of London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky.

Sorry not to be more helpful.

Suzi



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 13:26:32 +0200
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000801c8ce11$80f5fdf0$b514a150@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=3Dflowed; charset=3D"iso-8859-1";
=A0=A0=A0 reply-type=3Dresponse

What about Waterstones? I got a lot there last time i were in London. As i =

recall it its in a street next to Oxford Street?
I got both costume related and embroidery related books there, and i thoagh=
t =

they had a nice collection.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- =

From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library


> At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some =

>>library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at =

>>amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, =

>>maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books =

>>(any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list wha=
t =

>>to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>>
>>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume =

>>books are to be found?
>>
>>Thanks for any tips,
>>
>>Zuzana
>
> Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find second =

> hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells costume books =

> for certain is R.D. Franks, (http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a =

> specialist fashion trade book shop, so there is a lot of modern =

> tailoring/fashion student orientated content. (I was disappointed when I =

> went last.)
>
> As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each area of =

> London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky.
>
> Sorry not to be more helpful.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> =





------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 13:00:18 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080614125927.03938058@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed

At 12:26 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>What about Waterstones? I got a lot there last time i were in =

>London. As i recall it its in a street next to Oxford Street?
>I got both costume related and embroidery related books there, and i =

>thoaght they had a nice collection.

That always depends on the stocking policy of the manager - sometimes =

you get lucky - I haven't!!

Suzi


>Bjarne
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:10 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
>
>
>>At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to =

>>>some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read =

>>>about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a =

>>>lot of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some =

>>>second hand costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see =

>>>the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor studen=
t:-DD
>>>
>>>Is there any large public library or a library where most of the =

>>>costume books are to be found?
>>>
>>>Thanks for any tips,
>>>
>>>Zuzana
>>
>>Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find =

>>second hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells =

>>costume books for certain is R.D. Franks, =

>>(http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion =

>>trade book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion =

>>student orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.)
>>
>>As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each =

>>area of London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be luc=
ky.
>>
>>Sorry not to be more helpful.
>>
>>Suzi
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 05:11:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <865388.16739.qm@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1


Well, last time I was in London I had just one day=A0 - Saturday, and the R=
.D.Franks bookshop was not open and then I was probably late to get to the =
largest London bookshop on Piccadilly:-( All other bookshops I visited (Cha=
ring Cross rd etc.) had only a small collection of costume books. The best =
place to buy such books was the V&A museum shop. But I thought there must b=
e another place with many costume books? There should be at least one large=
r library, or art-oriented library... We have one central library in Prague=
 where you can find almost any Czech book, so I thought there will be one i=
n London, too?

Zuzana


___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz =







=A0 =A0 =A0 =


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 13:32:59 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080614133114.03965980@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed

At 13:11 14/06/2008, you wrote:

>Well, last time I was in London I had just one day=A0 - Saturday, and =

>the R.D.Franks bookshop was not open and then I was probably late to =

>get to the largest London bookshop on Piccadilly:-( All other =

>bookshops I visited (Charing Cross rd etc.) had only a small =

>collection of costume books. The best place to buy such books was =

>the V&A museum shop. But I thought there must be another place with =

>many costume books? There should be at least one larger library, or =

>art-oriented library... We have one central library in Prague where =

>you can find almost any Czech book, so I thought there will be one =

>in London, too?
>
>Zuzana

Not that I know of, and I have lived in London since 1971. And I'm =

told that my personal library is better than most of the colleges' =

libraries - and they teach costume!

Suzi



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 06:51:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <540712.15159.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1

Ha! I found the V&A museum has a library or what - The national Art library?
I'm searching the catalogue and it seems they have most books I'd like to l=
ook at.
They say it's situated in the V&A museum...I hope they would let me in:-)

Zuzana


___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz =







=A0 =A0 =A0 =


------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:42:51 +0200
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <001001c8ce2c$ed5606a0$0ee73f50@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=3Dflowed; charset=3D"iso-8859-1";
=A0=A0=A0 reply-type=3Doriginal

If you have the time, you could take the train down to Bath.
The museum of Costume, Bath has a large museum shop, packed with all kinds =

of costume related books.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- =

From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 10:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] London public library


> Hi,
>
> I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some =

> library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at =

> amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, =

> maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books =

> (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list wha=
t =

> to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD
>
> Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume =

> books are to be found?
>
> Thanks for any tips,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> =





------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:09:52 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080614160728.0395ce88@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed

At 14:51 14/06/2008, you wrote:
>Ha! I found the V&A museum has a library or what - The national Art librar=
y?
>I'm searching the catalogue and it seems they have most books I'd =

>like to look at.
>They say it's situated in the V&A museum...I hope they would let me in:-)
>
>Zuzana


It used to be such a pain getting a reader's ticket that I forgot =

about it. Haven't used it for 25 years, so I hope it has changed for =

the better. You used to have to wait such ages to get the books you =

wanted too, I never thought of checking out books I wanted to buy.

Suzi



------------------------------

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


End of h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 236
*****************************************



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] T-Tunics -help fitting
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Status: RO

susang45, I'd love the infromation if you could ask Tim.

On Fri, Jun 20, 2008 at 10:19 AM, susang45@juno.com <susang45@juno.com>
wrote:

>  Tunics are every where -did you have a certain time or place in mind? It's
> easier to get a good result if you are aiming at a specific idea ( Russian ,
> Norman, etc). I wish I could find Tim Nalley's  (AKA Mordak) pattern. He has
> a similar body shape and has solved the issue beautifully. As I recall, one
> of his tunic patterns has the body piece cut in 3 long rectangles, instead
> of one. The seam runs  vertically (about over the nipples) and gores are
> placed in these seams. It's very graceful and allows for extra belly space.
> If you are interested, I'll ask Tim for more costuming information, he's a
> very good costumer and loves to share.
>
> Here are some good patterns, many are based on extant garments
> St Louis shirt
> http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/index.html
> The A tunic
> http://housebarra.com/EP/ep06/14Atunic.html
> Extant clothing with basic patter shapes
> http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html<http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/%7Emarc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html>
> Russian tunic with trapezoidal gores
> http://costume.mashaholl.com/#shirt
> Russian coat
> http://genvieve.net/sca/ncoat.html
>
> Susan
>
> If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A.
> Einstein
>
>
> 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a fitting
> challenge.  I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always having
> trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not
> too
> big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly under
> the arms.  if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so
> that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most
> grateful.
> I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a trapazoid,
> and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that
> ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if
> you
> want me to, I can post.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Jordana
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here for great computer networking solutions!
>
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Hey beautiful,

I don't know if you are planning you trip yet, but they started this 
conversation on the H-Cost list and these two posts looked interesting.

Hope all is well
Maggie



At 02:07 PM 6/20/2008, they wrote:

I was in London last year and there was a lovely used bookstore 
across the street from the British Museum. Sadly the only thing I 
remember about the name is it started with a Q. But they had a whole 
section about fashion in the back next to the Art books. I wish I 
could be more helpful than that.


>The only book shop that sells
>costume books for certain is R.D. Franks,
>(http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion trade
>book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion student
>orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.)

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At 04:00 PM 6/20/2008, you wrote:
>Hey beautiful,


LOL  Well, I feel foolish... Supposed to be private...

Maggie

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No idea, not my machine, as said.
 
 
 
In a message dated 21/06/2008 19:02:05 GMT Standard Time, 
_h-costume-request@indra.com_ (mailto:h-costume-request@indra.com)   writes:
That is not enough info. :)
 
What does the presser foot look like, tall, pointing up and slender like a  
finger, pointing sideways, or flat like a table? What kind of cabinet is it in? 
 How is it powered?
 
?
Chiara Francesca




   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library
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That would be the British Library here, which has a coy of every book ever  
published in the UK.
 
However, knowing it's there and getting a reading card are two entirely  
different matters  :o)
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 21/06/2008 19:02:05 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

We have  one central library in Prague where you can find almost any Czech 
book, so I  thought there will be one in London, too?


 



   
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Subject: [h-cost] Seeking contact near Bakewell
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Do we have any listmembers around Bakewell (England)?

Or perhaps someone has a good photo of the effigy of George Vernon and his two 
wives at All Saints' Church? One of my authors needs to confirm a costume 
detail of the wives' headdress that we think is misrepresented in a book. 
(Yes, between us we've already been all over the 'net and in multiple volumes 
on church monuments.)

Thanks...

--Robin
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At 19:57 22/06/2008, you wrote:
>Do we have any listmembers around Bakewell (England)?
>
>Or perhaps someone has a good photo of the effigy of George Vernon 
>and his two wives at All Saints' Church? One of my authors needs to 
>confirm a costume detail of the wives' headdress that we think is 
>misrepresented in a book. (Yes, between us we've already been all 
>over the 'net and in multiple volumes on church monuments.)
>
>Thanks...
>
>--Robin

Have you tried contacting the Tudor Tailor people, Ninya Mikhaila and 
Jane - something-Davis?  They have been photographing and annotating 
effigies in churches. There is a web site online with their currently 
published pictures, of which I do not have a record, unfortunately. 
However, they may also have unpublished documentation.

Suzi

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Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 19:57 22/06/2008, you wrote:
>> Do we have any listmembers around Bakewell (England)?
>>
>> Or perhaps someone has a good photo of the effigy of George Vernon and 
>> his two wives at All Saints' Church? One of my authors needs to 
>> confirm a costume detail of the wives' headdress that we think is 
>> misrepresented in a book. (Yes, between us we've already been all over 
>> the 'net and in multiple volumes on church monuments.)

> Have you tried contacting the Tudor Tailor people, Ninya Mikhaila and 
> Jane - something-Davis?  They have been photographing and annotating 
> effigies in churches. There is a web site online with their currently 
> published pictures, of which I do not have a record, unfortunately. 
> However, they may also have unpublished documentation.

Thanks, but I believe my author has already checked with them. I'll verify.

--Robin

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I've never been to London (sigh), but I used to buy books from Foyle's bookshop-pre-internet and pre-weak dollar. I don't think I bought any costuming books from them, but I notice that they are called the largest bookshop in London, so I'd assume they must have several costume books. 
BTW, it was also pre-decimal coinage for England, which gives you an idea of how long ago it was. I checked just to make sure they were still in business.
Carol



                     

Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  

Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         

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Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier 

Yes.

Email me privately, 

goofy4@comcast.net

Dianne
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Hi, A non-profit sailing place I frequent had an old industrial pfaff sewing machine donated. They can't figure out how to get it to work as the upper thread isn't catching the bobbin thread.  I took a look at it and think that the upper thread isn't getting low enough to catch the bobbin thread. I'm not sure how to fix this. I did tell them to check the needle, but the needles in the drawer were the right ones for the machine. 

Any advise where I can get more help? I did find that the pfaff has a bunch of manuals up, but I didn't see a model number on the machine (but I may have been looking at the wrong spot).  And this is an old one and I am not sure their manuals go back that far.

I'd love to get them up and running with this as then they may let me use it from time to time ;-)

thanks, Susan in Seattle
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From: Robert Powell <wolfonwear@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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I am still interested also

Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:  I for one am. Been do=
ing pattern grading research so any left over's would be greatly appreciate=
d after you all are done using them. :)

=E2=99=AB
Chiara Francesca

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On B=
ehalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier =


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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First thing - try turning the needle around. If it is in backwards (as  
is common) it could be the problem.  I've seen several "broken"  
machines where that turned out to be the only problem.
-Megan
On Jun 23, 2008, at 8:03 PM, Susan C wrote:

> Hi, A non-profit sailing place I frequent had an old industrial  
> pfaff sewing machine donated. They can't figure out how to get it to  
> work as the upper thread isn't catching the bobbin thread.  I took a  
> look at it and think that the upper thread isn't getting low enough  
> to catch the bobbin thread. I'm not sure how to fix this. I did tell  
> them to check the needle, but the needles in the drawer were the  
> right ones for the machine.
>
> Any advise where I can get more help? I did find that the pfaff has  
> a bunch of manuals up, but I didn't see a model number on the  
> machine (but I may have been looking at the wrong spot).  And this  
> is an old one and I am not sure their manuals go back that far.
>
> I'd love to get them up and running with this as then they may let  
> me use it from time to time ;-)
>
> thanks, Susan in Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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On Jun 23, 2008, at 6:19 PM, Megan wrote:

> First thing - try turning the needle around. If it is in backwards  
> (as is common) it could be the problem.  I've seen several "broken"  
> machines where that turned out to be the only problem.

...or sideways; most industrial machines I've used are "round-shank"  
needle systems, so it's not difficult to mis-align a needle.

andy
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:49:50 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] New Victorian patterns
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Hello!  I would like to announce that I have three new patterns on my website.  All three come in sizes 2 - 30.  You can see them 
at:
http://www.mantua-maker.com/new_victorian_patterns.html

The first is an overskirt called the Camargo Sash Bustle Drapery, for the years 1868 - 1888.
The second is a bodice named the Mystic Mine Basque, for the years 1875 - 1890.
The third is the You Bet Bodice, for the years 1870 - 1890.

Also, I have reworked my 1825 - 1830 Daydress so that it includes all sizes from 2 - 30 in the same pattern.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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What kind are you looking for?
Sharon =


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robert Powell
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

I am still interested also

Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:  I for one am. Been
doing pattern grading research so any left over's would be greatly
appreciated after you all are done using them. :)

=E2=99=AB
Chiara Francesca

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier =


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Try turning the needle 90, 180 then 270 degrees, often a needle will be in 
wrong way around and will often not pick up due to this (and were all the 
needles in the drawer the right ones?).

Is the correct size bobbin in place?

Is the bobbin case in good repair?

Is the tension all okay?

You may find that the mechanism in the underside of the head (the machine is 
called the head in the table, there are horizontal rods running along the 
length of the underside that turn the bobbin case. Are they working?

If they are working, they may not be aligned correctly. Loosen the bobbin case 
on these rods (a few screws just beside it)and shift it around a fraction of an 
inch. Keep trying this until things work (you cannot do harm by this).

These are a few simple things to try out. Of course, if you cannot get it 
working, old machines make handy anchors!

-C.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking contact near Bakewell
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I'm probably the nearest, in Derby, but Bakewell's at the other end of the county and I'm not expecting to be making a trip up there in the foreseeable future. I'll have a look in the local history section here in the library and see if there are any photos.


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 13:57:14 -0500
From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Seeking contact near Bakewell
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <485EA08A.6040304@netherton.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Do we have any listmembers around Bakewell (England)?

Or perhaps someone has a good photo of the effigy of George Vernon and his two 
wives at All Saints' Church? One of my authors needs to confirm a costume 
detail of the wives' headdress that we think is misrepresented in a book. 
(Yes, between us we've already been all over the 'net and in multiple volumes 
on church monuments.)

Thanks...

--Robin




                     



Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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From: "Martha Oser" <osermart@msu.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen Bias Tape
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Anyone have a source for linen bias tape?  I have absolutely no patience for 
making my own bias tape and I'd like some for a linen shirt I plan to make 
for my husband. 

I found a 50/50 linen/cotton blend tape here: 

http://www.superbuzzy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_85&produ 
cts_id=3158 

Anyone used it?  Should I pre-wash it as I pre-wash the fabric so that it's 
pre-shrunk? 

Many thanks! 

 -Helena 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking contact near Bakewell
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Kate M Bunting wrote:
> I'm probably the nearest, in Derby, but Bakewell's at the other end of the county and I'm not expecting to be making a trip up there in the foreseeable future. I'll have a look in the local history section here in the library and see if there are any photos.

Kate's research did the trick for us! No need for any more responses. (And 
many thanks to Kate for stepping up.)

--Robin
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:56:12 +0000
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Bias Tape
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Depending on what you're doing, you may want straight-grain tape rather than bias. In which case there are several sources: http://wmboothdraper.com/TapeLace/tapelace.htm#Linen is my current favorite. These guys also carry it: http://woodedhamlet.com/tapes_braids/dutch_linentape.html

There may be others -- try a google search on "sutlers", especially 18th century. It's sort of a staple of 18th C garment construction. 
I've never seen a bias tape in linen.
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Martha Oser" <osermart@msu.edu> 

> Anyone have a source for linen bias tape? I have absolutely no patience for 
> making my own bias tape and I'd like some for a linen shirt I plan to make 
> for my husband. 
> 
> I found a 50/50 linen/cotton blend tape here: 
> 
> http://www.superbuzzy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_85&produ 
> cts_id=3158 
> 
> Anyone used it? Should I pre-wash it as I pre-wash the fabric so that it's 
> pre-shrunk? 
> 
> Many thanks! 
> 
> -Helena 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Bias Tape
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Try these for 100% linen bias tape:

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=12509306

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=12672894

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of lauren.walker@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 10:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Bias Tape


Depending on what you're doing, you may want straight-grain tape rather than
bias. In which case there are several sources:
http://wmboothdraper.com/TapeLace/tapelace.htm#Linen is my current favorite.
These guys also carry it:
http://woodedhamlet.com/tapes_braids/dutch_linentape.html

There may be others -- try a google search on "sutlers", especially 18th
century. It's sort of a staple of 18th C garment construction.
I've never seen a bias tape in linen.
Lauren

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Martha Oser" <osermart@msu.edu>

> Anyone have a source for linen bias tape? I have absolutely no patience
for
> making my own bias tape and I'd like some for a linen shirt I plan to make
> for my husband.
>
> I found a 50/50 linen/cotton blend tape here:
>
>
http://www.superbuzzy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_85&produ
> cts_id=3158
>
> Anyone used it? Should I pre-wash it as I pre-wash the fabric so that it's
> pre-shrunk?
>
> Many thanks!
>
> -Helena
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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	Oh, Deb, they look like great additions to your pattern line! What
was the inspiration for the You Bet Bodice and the Mystic Mine Bodice?

	BTW, so pleased to see you here! I know the costumers here are going
to be all over your wealth of knowledge and your patterns. :-)

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
publisher of=A0 books by Lorina Stephens
purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens
Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0 Recipes of a Dumb Housewife,=A0by=A0Lorina=A0Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org -
http://5riversnews.blogspot.com



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From: Robert Powell <wolfonwear@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
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I have a collection of vintage patterns so any would be a great addition.  =
thanks in advance.
  Robert

Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  What kind are you looking for?
Sharon =


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robert Powell
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

I am still interested also

Chiara Francesca wrote: I for one am. Been
doing pattern grading research so any left over's would be greatly
appreciated after you all are done using them. :)

=E2=99=AB
Chiara Francesca

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier =


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 25 03:20:11 2008
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
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I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ Superstar, On Demand.  During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's bikini bottoms.  Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men?  If not, when did men's Speedos become bikini sized?   

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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I'd probably know what is the trouble, I'd say the bobbin is in the wrong position. This happens if the thread stucks in the machine and you move the bobbin here and there to get the thread out. Especially Pfaff is very sensitive to this - if you force too much, the bobbin will move permanently. This is done on purpose, as otherwise you'd damage a little tooth wheel in the machine. 
To repair this, you have to take the machine to parts to get to the inside, unscrew certain components and move the bobbin. You have to know how the exact position of the bobbin and needle should be. It's a work of tenths of millimeters. I have a diagram as how it should be, but it would be very difficult to explain. I think it will be safer to go to a sewing machine service or get a professional that repairs them.

Zuzana

___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 




--- On Tue, 6/24/08, Susan C <scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:
From: Susan C <scourney@nwlink.com>
Subject: [h-cost] old pfaff industrial
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 24, 2008, 2:03 AM

Hi, A non-profit sailing place I frequent had an old industrial pfaff sewing
machine donated. They can't figure out how to get it to work as the upper
thread isn't catching the bobbin thread.  I took a look at it and think
that the upper thread isn't getting low enough to catch the bobbin thread.
I'm not sure how to fix this. I did tell them to check the needle, but the
needles in the drawer were the right ones for the machine. 

Any advise where I can get more help? I did find that the pfaff has a bunch of
manuals up, but I didn't see a model number on the machine (but I may have
been looking at the wrong spot).  And this is an old one and I am not sure
their manuals go back that far.

I'd love to get them up and running with this as then they may let me use
it from time to time ;-)

thanks, Susan in Seattle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
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I remember too many Canadian men wandering around in tiny Speedos as they 
wended their way south to Old Orchard Beach in the '70's. Thank you for 
reminding me of this bewildering childhood memory!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 3:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos


>I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ 
>Superstar, On Demand.  During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs 
>in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not 
>sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been 
>women's bikini bottoms.  Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men?  If not, 
>when did men's Speedos become bikini sized?
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


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Oh (he said with eyes watering), they were that tight back then.

Also, Jockey had a pair of underwear with little more than the elastic strap at 
the hip...could it have been that?


-C.

> I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ
> Superstar, On Demand.  During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs
> in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not
> sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's
> bikini bottoms.  Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men?  If not, when did
> men's Speedos become bikini sized?




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Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers,

-C.


> in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not




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Interestingly, the costume designer of "JC Superstar" is Yvonne Blake, I  
believe. She designed one of the BEST costume extravaganzas of the 70's:  "Three 
Musketeers" [and of course "Four Musketeers" too.... since they were  
conceived as one film during filming]. Y'know, the one with Michael York, and  Raquel 
Welch and...everybody else in Hollywood. Still the best telling of the  story 
and the best costumes for it to date. [Raquel refused to wear a corset  with a 
busk, so her gowns were designed by someone else, but even though her  
construction and silhouette are not great, the designs themselves are not  
terrible.] Geraldine Chaplin wears one of those daisy petal collars in one scene  and 
it doesn't look foolish at all. How did they do THAT? The Ball scene is all  
white and silver, and the scene at the end of the 1st film,  where d'Artagnan 
becomes a musketeer is all in black and gold. Just  fantastically beautiful.



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Interestingly, the costume designer of "JC Superstar" is Yvonne Blake, I  
> believe. She designed one of the BEST costume extravaganzas of the 70's:  "Three 
> Musketeers" ...

She's done a lot of good work. I first noticed her name on "Robin and Marian," 
which had far better costume for "medieval" style than most films I've seen 
before or since. Interestingly, I first saw that movie as a double feature 
with "Nicholas and Alexandra" -- another of Blake's works. I just looked her 
up on IMDB and was surprised to see just how many films she's done, and how 
broad a range:

http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0086762/

--Robin
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Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns
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I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, 
and make in more than one size.

What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? 
In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* simple 
children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size 
was simple.

Suggestions?

Denise 

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I always trace the thin patterns to brown wrapping paper, it holds a lot 
better and it wont fade away so easy. All the patterns i use frequently are 
made of brown wrapping paper.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 4:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns


>I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, 
>and make in more than one size.
>
> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? 
> In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* 
> simple children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a 
> smaller size was simple.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Denise
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I'm generally a lurker, but I can chime in here from personal experience.  I
was on a swim team as a kid and it was actually around that time -- and yes,
the speedos (which have earned a bad rap due to their abuse!) were always
small!  They were also baggy in those pre-lycra days. Now -- were they that
tiny?  Probably not for competitive swimming, but if you look at yummy Mark
Spitz in 1976 you can see some small speedos.
Did Rudi Gernreich have anything to do with the tiny male swimsuit, I
wonder?  I know he did women's things and perhaps some of the things were
gender neutral.
Candace Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 3:19 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos

I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ
Superstar, On Demand.  During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs
in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not
sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's
bikini bottoms.  Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men?  If not, when did
men's Speedos become bikini sized?   

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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>I always trace the thin patterns to brown wrapping paper, it holds a lot 
>better and it wont fade away so easy. All the patterns i use frequently are 
>made of brown wrapping paper.
>


That is similar to what I am doing now. I have separated the pieces, but not 
cut them closely. Then I tape each piece to a large window. Then tape large 
paper (similar, but thicker than newspaper) over the piece and trace only 
the size I want this time.  It's taking me a long time!  :-)  And I will 
have to do it all again when I need a different size.  There are 8 sizes on 
these pieces, so in some places it gets kind of confusing, esp. since the 
print on the pattern itself is very faint.

Thanks
Denise B 

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I use either sturdy clear plastic drop sheets (the sort painters use, very 
inexpensive) or I go to the dollar store and get clear shower curtains or 
tablecloth protectors. I just spread out the pattern on the table or floor, 
throw the plastic over top and trace with a sharpie marker. Even the thin 
window plastic works pretty well, if a bit clingy due to static. So far the 
only trouble I have had is when cutting out black fabric - I couldn't see my 
lines. :0)

Sheridan P

>From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns
>Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:11:54 -0500
>
>I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, 
>and make in more than one size.
>
>What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? In 
>the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* simple 
>children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size 
>was simple.
>
>Suggestions?
>
>Denise
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Land of Oz wrote:
> I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several 
> times, and make in more than one size.
>
> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? 

I cut the largest size I will use and iron onto fusible interfacing.

Or I trace the size I want (and make any changes to the pattern) onto 
new tissue and iron that on fusible.



Dawn

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My method, which is not always successful, is to trim the pattern to the  
outer-most line and then fold over the larger sizes, clipping where necessary on  
curves.  If a piece is really confusing, I'll trace it onto paper,  either 
computer paper if it's small, freezer paper, or brown wrapping  paper.  
I don't like using commercial patterns - the sizes don't match  me.  Last 
year, I needed to make a couple of modern formals for a  convention and went 
bonkers trying to remember how to put in a  zipper!   (Yes, it had been that 
long!)  
 
Catherine 
 
In a message dated 6/25/2008 10:23:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
landofoz@netins.net writes:

I have a  multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, 
and make  in more than one size.

What is your favorite method of preserving  patterns to keep them intact? 
In the past, I have fused the tissue to  muslin, but those were *very* simple 
children's play clothes, and  eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size 
was  simple.

Suggestions?

Denise 







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>> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them  
>> intact? In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those  
>> were *very* simple children's play clothes, and eyeballing the  
>> cutting line for a smaller size was simple.


      I rarely use commercial patterns; usually I would draft them  
out of a book onto paper.

      My favorite paper source: If anyone is near a large printing  
plant, call and ask if they print on web presses, and if so wold they  
give you a butt roll?

      When a web press is running, they switch from one roll of paper  
to the next without stopping.  This means there is some paper left on  
the old roll.  For our use it's a huge amount, about half to an inch  
thick on a 4" core.  Printers recycle these rolls as waste, but if  
you ask nicely they will give you one.

      Don't get newsprint, because it degrades.  You want white  
uncoated or matte finish so you can write on it easily.  Of course,  
you can't be too fussy with free stuff, but also they could look out  
for the type of paper you need and save it for you.  It helps to  
bring cookies or brownies to the person who helps you.  :-)

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Interestingly, the costume designer of "JC Superstar" is Yvonne
Blake, I  
> believe. She designed one of the BEST costume extravaganzas of the
70's:  "Three 
> Musketeers" ...
 
She's done a lot of good work. I first noticed her name on "Robin and
Marian," 
which had far better costume for "medieval" style than most films I've
seen 
before or since. Interestingly, I first saw that movie as a double
feature 
with "Nicholas and Alexandra" -- another of Blake's works. I just
looked her 
up on IMDB and was surprised to see just how many films she's done, and
how 
broad a range:
 
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0086762/ 
 
--Robin
 
****************************************
 
Oooo, and she did Flesh and Blood!  Another historic costume goody.  I
love the footsy-under-the-table scene :).
 
Thanks for the link Robin.
 
Catherine
 
 
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I trace the various sizes onto that gridded nonwoven stuff and then cut them
out. I use the tracings and save the original.

Kate 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 10:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns

I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times,
and make in more than one size.

What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? 
In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* simple
children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size
was simple.

Suggestions?

Denise 

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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's bikini bottoms.


They were women's bikini bottoms. The whole chorus in that scene was in 
bad drag.

andy

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> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
> stilskin@netspace.net.au
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 8:11 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Speedos by name
> 
> Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers,
> 
> > in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white 
> Speedos.  


I've been giggling all day at that one....thanks for sharing it!!

Astrida

*******************************
Astrida Schaeffer, Exhibitions and Collections Manager 
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road 
Durham, NH 03824-3538
603-862-0310
FAX: 603-862-2191

www.unh.edu/art-gallery
*******************************

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> the size I want this time.  It's taking me a long time!  :-)

It doesn't work for stiff white paper patterns, but for tissue paper
patterns, you can lay your pattern on a stiffer paper and trace right
through the tissue with a sharpie marker...
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Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
 Subject: [h-cost] Speedos by name

Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers,

-C.


   Oh, mercy.  You made me spit iced tea on my keyboard with that....

Liadain
Still laughing and picturing little birdie feet poking out

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies



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On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:00 AM, Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
>
>>> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact?
>>> In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* simple
>>> children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size
>>> was simple.
>
>
>     I rarely use commercial patterns; usually I would draft them out of a
> book onto paper.
>
>     My favorite paper source: If anyone is near a large printing plant, call
> and ask if they print on web presses, and if so wold they give you a butt
> roll?
>

My favorite pattern paper is Christmas gift wrap. Not just any old
gift wrap but the glossy stuff you can usually only get at Christmas.
The back side takes a marker beautifully and it's sturdy enough to use
over and over. Also, it's just more fun. :)

MaggiRos
-- 
Maggie Secara
~Coming in July from Popinjay Press
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603:
Elizabethan commonplaces for writers, actors, & re-enactors
ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
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  =

 =

     I totally agree with the Christmas paper. You can sometimes find it wi=
th grid patterns on the back side.  I usually just use my tracing wheel & t=
he tracing paper for sewing, especially when the paper is multi sized on he=
avy paper.  A little more expensive but very well worth it if you plan to u=
se the pattern several times is artist velum or erasable velum.  It is slig=
htly translucent and easy to work with.
 =

 =

> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 13:04:37 -0700> From: maggiros@gmail.com> To: h-co=
stume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] preserving patterns =97 paper> > On =
Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:00 AM, Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:> >>=
 >>> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intac=
t?> >>> In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *ver=
y* simple> >>> children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for=
 a smaller size> >>> was simple.> >> >> > I rarely use commercial patterns;=
 usually I would draft them out of a> > book onto paper.> >> > My favorite =
paper source: If anyone is near a large printing plant, call> > and ask if =
they print on web presses, and if so wold they give you a butt> > roll?> >>=
 > My favorite pattern paper is Christmas gift wrap. Not just any old> gift=
 wrap but the glossy stuff you can usually only get at Christmas.> The back=
 side takes a marker beautifully and it's sturdy enough to use> over and ov=
er. Also, it's just more fun. :)> > MaggiRos> -- > Maggie Secara> ~Coming i=
n July from Popinjay Press> A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603:> El=
izabethan commonplaces for writers, actors, & re-enactors> ISBN: 978-0-9818=
401-0-9> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing=
 list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-c=
ostume
_________________________________________________________________
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From: Robert Powell <wolfonwear@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] preserving patterns  paper
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I trace out the pattern on muslin and put any marks that I may need on it.  It also saves time in the long run because you won't need to do any pinning when you lay the pattern out on fabric.

Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:  
>> What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them 
>> intact? In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those 
>> were *very* simple children's play clothes, and eyeballing the 
>> cutting line for a smaller size was simple.


I rarely use commercial patterns; usually I would draft them 
out of a book onto paper.

My favorite paper source: If anyone is near a large printing 
plant, call and ask if they print on web presses, and if so wold they 
give you a butt roll?

When a web press is running, they switch from one roll of paper 
to the next without stopping. This means there is some paper left on 
the old roll. For our use it's a huge amount, about half to an inch 
thick on a 4" core. Printers recycle these rolls as waste, but if 
you ask nicely they will give you one.

Don't get newsprint, because it degrades. You want white 
uncoated or matte finish so you can write on it easily. Of course, 
you can't be too fussy with free stuff, but also they could look out 
for the type of paper you need and save it for you. It helps to 
bring cookies or brownies to the person who helps you. :-)

-Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speedos by name
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As a former swimwear designer (including the Spedo-like briefs) I am laughing myself silly. Thanks!
Monica

----- Original Message -----
From: Frank A Thallas Jr 
Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speedos by name
To: 'Historical Costume' 

> 
> Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
> Subject: [h-cost] Speedos by name
> 
> Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers,
> 
> -C.
> 
> 
> Oh, mercy. You made me spit iced tea on my keyboard with that....
> 
> Liadain
> Still laughing and picturing little birdie feet poking out
> 
> THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
> wildernesse, the Outlands 
> http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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We use drafting/tracing paper.  It's 36" wide, so =

many pattern pieces fit on one width.  It's =

really transparent, erasable, and pretty =

durable.  It gets a bit brittle after about 5 =

years but not too much.  We used to get it at =

Office Depot, but we now get it at our =

university's bookstore - with the supplies for =

the architecture students.  (Which is also a =

source for good pencils, erasers, and various curves and templates....)

Sandy

At 04:02 PM 6/25/2008, you wrote:
>
>      I totally agree with the Christmas paper. =

> You can sometimes find it with grid patterns on =

> the back side.  I usually just use my tracing =

> wheel & the tracing paper for sewing, =

> especially when the paper is multi sized on =

> heavy paper.  A little more expensive but very =

> well worth it if you plan to use the pattern =

> several times is artist velum or erasable =

> velum.  It is slightly translucent and easy to work with.
>
>From: maggiros@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: =

>[h-cost] preserving patterns =97 paper> > On Wed, =

>Jun 25, 2008 at 8:00 AM, Carol Kocian =

><aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:> >> >>> What is =

>your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact?>

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  =



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I want to buy a roll of florist=B4s wrapping paper =

for pattern making. It=B4s sheer enough for =

tracing, sort of stiff and sturdy and it is thin =

so that patterns can be stored folded. However, =

they sell only very big rolls and I can=B4t decide on a color yet...

Hanna


At 05:38 26.06.2008, you wrote:
>We use drafting/tracing paper.  It's 36" wide, =

>so many pattern pieces fit on one width.  It's =

>really transparent, erasable, and pretty =

>durable.  It gets a bit brittle after about 5 =

>years but not too much.  We used to get it at =

>Office Depot, but we now get it at our =

>university's bookstore - with the supplies for =

>the architecture students.  (Which is also a =

>source for good pencils, erasers, and various curves and templates....)
>
>Sandy
>
>At 04:02 PM 6/25/2008, you wrote:
>>
>>      I totally agree with the Christmas paper. =

>> You can sometimes find it with grid patterns =

>> on the back side.  I usually just use my =

>> tracing wheel & the tracing paper for sewing, =

>> especially when the paper is multi sized on =

>> heavy paper.  A little more expensive but very =

>> well worth it if you plan to use the pattern =

>> several times is artist velum or erasable =

>> velum.  It is slightly translucent and easy to work with.
>>
>>From: maggiros@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: =

>>[h-cost] preserving patterns =97 paper> > On Wed, =

>>Jun 25, 2008 at 8:00 AM, Carol Kocian =

>><aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:> >> >>> What is =

>>your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact?>
>
>"Those Who Fail To Learn History
>Are Doomed to Repeat It;
>Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
>Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
>Achemdro'hm
>"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>  -- C.Y. 4971
>
>Andromeda
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A compendium of Elizabethan knowledge
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Posted with Kass's approval, since costume has to have context!


June 26, 2008 (Los Angeles, CA) Did you know that the first shopping
mall was opened in London in 1571? That in 16th century England, gifts
were given on New Year's Day but not on Christmas? That beer could be
flavored with anything from pepper to lupins? All this and more can be
found in Maggie Secara's A COMPENDIUM OF COMMON KNOWLEDGE 1558-1603
(210 pps, trade paperback, $19.95)

The Compendium website at www.elizabethan.org has long been the go-to
website for authors, students, actors, re-enactors, and Elizabethan
enthusiasts of all kinds. Now in paperback from Popinjay Press, anyone
can have the Compendium on hand wherever they go!

The Compendium, as web fans already know, is a series of snapshots of
daily life in the court and countryside of Shakespeare and Good Queen
Bess, written for the everyday reader. Painstakingly researched and
illustrated from period sources, each page dishes up details about
food, language, games, and gossip, as well as the work, weddings, and
beliefs of more than 400 years ago. There's a detailed index to make
it especially easy to use, plus notes on the sources so you can find
out more. This new paperback version even features a bonus chapter on
persona building that's perfect for guildmasters and authors both.

What can you do with the COMPENDIUM in paperback that you can't do online?
- Make notes in the margins
- Read it in bed
- Take it to workshops
- Stash it in the tourney box
- Write a book report
- Give extra copies as gifts
- And best of all=97you can use it even when the computer is down!

Author Maggie Secara is a technical writer by trade, with a Master's
degree from CSU Northridge. She is the author/editor of other Web
publications including the Trial of the Earls of Essex and
Southampton. She has at various times been a Highland gentlewoman, a
Landsknecht campfrau, and the Countess of Southampton, and is
currently editing a 1595 household book.

ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
PayPal only (account not required)

Maggie Secara
~Available NOW from Popinjay Press
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A compendium of Elizabethan knowledge
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Maggie! Congratulations on getting The Compendium published. I know that it
has been a warehouse of information for me over the past 20 years - even
before it went online. I plan to order a paperback copy right away!

Lynn

On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 9:52 AM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:

> Posted with Kass's approval, since costume has to have context!
>
>
> June 26, 2008 (Los Angeles, CA) Did you know that the first shopping
> mall was opened in London in 1571? That in 16th century England, gifts
> were given on New Year's Day but not on Christmas? That beer could be
> flavored with anything from pepper to lupins? All this and more can be
> found in Maggie Secara's A COMPENDIUM OF COMMON KNOWLEDGE 1558-1603
> (210 pps, trade paperback, $19.95)
>
> The Compendium website at www.elizabethan.org has long been the go-to
> website for authors, students, actors, re-enactors, and Elizabethan
> enthusiasts of all kinds. Now in paperback from Popinjay Press, anyone
> can have the Compendium on hand wherever they go!



>
> <SNIP>



> ISBN: 978-0-9818401-0-9
> http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
> PayPal only (account not required)
>
> Maggie Secara
> ~Available NOW from Popinjay Press
> A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 9:52 AM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
> Posted with Kass's approval, since costume has to have context!
>

Whoops! Due to a little confusion of tags in gmail, this went to
H-Costume where Kass's approval is only as good as everyone else's.
But I meant to share with you all anyway, so there it is. Sorry for
the mix up!

MaggiRos
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What I understand that folks do (or used to do, before computerization?) in industrial settings is to trace the pattern onto tag board. But you'd need a tag board set for each size. They last for ages, though.



Claudine

----- Original Message ----
From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 6:11:54 AM
Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns

I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, 
and make in more than one size.

<snipped>

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>>I rarely use commercial patterns; usually I would draft them
>>out of a book onto paper.
>I trace out the pattern on muslin and put any marks that I may need on it.  It
>also saves time in the long run because you won't need to do any
>pinning when you lay the pattern out on fabric.

Both of the above are true for me too.  I'm a very lazy costumer for
all that I like high-end results.  I like to handle & fiddle w/ my
patts, mockups & finished garment as little as possible.

Part of this attitude is that I keep all my old mocks & drafts & notes
neatly organized in 2 file cabinets in the garage.  They're done on
heavily starched muslin and/or butcher paper (comes in big wide rolls
that last for years) and/or on the back side of D and E size
mechanical drawings done on "vellem".  It's not real vellem, it's the
kind that CAD drafters use & goes in a plotter.  This stuff will out
last me.  It's guaranteed 75 years archival quality, and I'm
recycling.

As for the starched muslin, I can draw on it, snip it to fit, pin it
on a person and gather or pleat it, then press it back to flat.  It
will even drape a little, unlike any paper pattern.

I love going to the pattern file cabinet, pulling out something I did
a decade ago to use as a starting place.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/low/uk_news/england/northamptonshire/7421051.stm

This article is about a month old, but I've just come across it.  Does 
anyone know of a site that has a picture of this painting?

--Charlene


-- 
A politican's words reveal less about what he thinks about his subject 
than what he thinks about his audience.  -- George Will
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 1:16 PM, Charlene Charette
<clclists1@earthlink.net> wrote:
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/low/uk_news/england/northamptonshire/7421051.stm
>
> This article is about a month old, but I've just come across it.  Does
> anyone know of a site that has a picture of this painting?
>

If you click the link at the bottom of the article, you go to the
Boughton House web page which also has an image of the painting.

MaggiRos
-- 
~Available NOW from Popinjay Press
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
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Sometimes, the best friend is the last to know...

But, I ordered 2...

I, and many of my friends, have used the Compendium for years to check my
impressions and look for snippets (oh, wait, I have to look up where that
word comes from)  :)

Cheers,
Regina in L.A.


>Original Message
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:52:22 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] A compendium of Elizabethan knowledge
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:
       <f7bcb0f20806260952r5a6e9a4bxca87bd9854950ed9@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252

June 26, 2008 (Los Angeles, CA) Did you know that the first shopping
mall was opened in London in 1571? That in 16th century England, gifts
were given on New Year's Day but not on Christmas? That beer could be
flavored with anything from pepper to lupins? All this and more can be
found in Maggie Secara's A COMPENDIUM OF COMMON KNOWLEDGE 1558-1603
(210 pps, trade paperback, $19.95)

The Compendium website at www.elizabethan.org has long been the go-to
website for authors, students, actors, re-enactors, and Elizabethan
enthusiasts of all kinds. Now in paperback from Popinjay Press, anyone
can have the Compendium on hand wherever they go!
_______________________________________________
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Maggie,

Will you have copies at Costume College, or will that be too much to handle?
We have one on order, but I may want to buy extras for Christmas presents.

Lynn

On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 9:02 PM, Regina Voorhes <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Sometimes, the best friend is the last to know...
>
> But, I ordered 2...
>
> I, and many of my friends, have used the Compendium for years to check my
> impressions and look for snippets (oh, wait, I have to look up where that
> word comes from)  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Regina in L.A.
>
>
> >Original Message
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:52:22 -0700
> From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] A compendium of Elizabethan knowledge
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>       <f7bcb0f20806260952r5a6e9a4bxca87bd9854950ed9@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252
>
> June 26, 2008 (Los Angeles, CA) Did you know that the first shopping
> mall was opened in London in 1571? That in 16th century England, gifts
> were given on New Year's Day but not on Christmas? That beer could be
> flavored with anything from pepper to lupins? All this and more can be
> found in Maggie Secara's A COMPENDIUM OF COMMON KNOWLEDGE 1558-1603
> (210 pps, trade paperback, $19.95)
>
> The Compendium website at www.elizabethan.org has long been the go-to
> website for authors, students, actors, re-enactors, and Elizabethan
> enthusiasts of all kinds. Now in paperback from Popinjay Press, anyone
> can have the Compendium on hand wherever they go!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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I should talk to Tammy (TL Barnes) and Hedgehog Handworks to see if
they they want to stock it. Since I don't have a space in the
Merchants' room, it could be awkward selling out of a hotel room :-)
Thanks for the idea!



MaggiRos


On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 10:11 AM, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
> Maggie,
>
> Will you have copies at Costume College, or will that be too much to handle?
> We have one on order, but I may want to buy extras for Christmas presents.
>
> Lynn
_______________________________________________
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On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 9:02 PM, Regina Voorhes <reginalawsonv@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sometimes, the best friend is the last to know...
>
> But, I ordered 2...
>
> I, and many of my friends, have used the Compendium for years to check my
> impressions and look for snippets (oh, wait, I have to look up where that
> word comes from)  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Regina in L.A.


Oh dear! I thought I told you! Sorry <slinking away...>

MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~Available NOW from Popinjay Press
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
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Maggie,

Does that mean you will be at Costume College? Would you be available for signing your books in person then??? (said hopefully).

Kimiko





      
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:26:35 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Oh yes! Actually I've been there the last couple of years. Last year I
spent all my free time reading the last Harry Potter book so I was
kind of invisible. :-) And sure, I can sign it in person, and still
give you a bookplate if you want. Can't wait.

Maggie



On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 3:58 PM, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Maggie,
>
> Does that mean you will be at Costume College? Would you be available for signing your books in person then??? (said hopefully).
>
> Kimiko
>
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
Maggie Secara
~Available NOW from Popinjay Press
A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
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Good evening everyone!

Sorry for the cross-post, I couldn't decide which list was most appropriate 
for this request.

I bought fabric last weekend. I wanted to make a very simple generic 
English/French Renaissance dress... but my fabric keeps insising it wants to 
be a Spanish dress!

Like this one:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

I haven't done a whole lot of research on Spanish gowns, so I have a couple 
of questions.

First, layers. On Spanish gowns of this type, there's always white sleeves 
with horizontal gold stripes, sometimes an under doublet similarly striped 
horizontally. I suppose there is a separate under doublet, and that both 
layers are constructed similarly. There's very similar styles on some 
Italian gowns where we can see an underskirt striped vertically in gold. For 
a Spanish gown, was there usually an underskirt?

Second question: does anybody have a good pattern for the wide triangular 
sleeve in the image linked above?

Third question... the skirt - or petticoat, if you prefer. On Spanish gowns, 
there doesn't seem to be much pleating, if any, at the waist. Has anybody 
built a skirt this way? Any pointers?

Last question: what about headwear? Any ideas?

Thank you!

Audrey 

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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>
> Last question: what about headwear? Any ideas?
If you look closely at the picture you can see she is wearing a cap on 
the back of her head, the top of it is just barely visible. It looks 
like what is commonly called an "attifet" these days, but it is a bit 
smaller and closer to the head.

Several people make patterns for those.


Dawn



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If you are good at sewing (meaning, not a first time sewer or novice) I
recommend
http://www.margospatterns.com/
The underpinnings and the Lady's wardrobe. You could possibly adapted the
Spanish sleeve into a bell sleeve.

Another portrait of Anne
http://www.queenscourtsocal.org/Photoalbum_contents.aspx?Albumid=3

It would seem that she is quite fond of the style of dress.

-----Original Message-----
Good evening everyone!

Sorry for the cross-post, I couldn't decide which list was most appropriate
for this request.

I bought fabric last weekend. I wanted to make a very simple generic
English/French Renaissance dress... but my fabric keeps insising it wants to
be a Spanish dress!

Like this one:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

I haven't done a whole lot of research on Spanish gowns, so I have a couple
of questions.

First, layers. On Spanish gowns of this type, there's always white sleeves
with horizontal gold stripes, sometimes an under doublet similarly striped
horizontally. I suppose there is a separate under doublet, and that both
layers are constructed similarly. There's very similar styles on some
Italian gowns where we can see an underskirt striped vertically in gold. For
a Spanish gown, was there usually an underskirt?

Second question: does anybody have a good pattern for the wide triangular
sleeve in the image linked above?

Third question... the skirt - or petticoat, if you prefer. On Spanish gowns,
there doesn't seem to be much pleating, if any, at the waist. Has anybody
built a skirt this way? Any pointers?

Last question: what about headwear? Any ideas?

Thank you!

Audrey

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Cool! I look forward to seeing you there.

Kimiko


--- On Fri, 6/27/08, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:

> Oh yes! Actually I've been there the last couple of
> years. Last year I
> spent all my free time reading the last Harry Potter book
> so I was
> kind of invisible. :-) And sure, I can sign it in person,
> and still
> give you a bookplate if you want. Can't wait.
> 
> Maggie



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown
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>  I bought fabric last weekend. I wanted to make a very simple generic
> English/French Renaissance dress... but my fabric keeps insising it wants=
 to
> be a Spanish dress!
>
>  Like this one:
> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

Woot! Welcome to the dark side!


>  First, layers. On Spanish gowns of this type, there's always white sleev=
es
> with horizontal gold stripes, sometimes an under doublet similarly striped
> horizontally. I suppose there is a separate under doublet, and that both
> layers are constructed similarly. There's very similar styles on some
> Italian gowns where we can see an underskirt striped vertically in gold. =
For
> a Spanish gown, was there usually an underskirt?

Yes. Alcega lists both gored and half circle skirts in his pattern
book (really a layout manual than patterns). It's still not entirely
clear why there are the two shapes but the gored skirts occasionally
have have a bodice cut with them that appears to be used for support
(querpo baxo)

It does appear that there is a doublet worn at least some of the time
as there are a few portraits (espeically of Ana) where the doublet is
worn open to reveal an inner layer that matches the sleeves (not
always white! Sometimes red.)

>  Second question: does anybody have a good pattern for the wide triangular
> sleeve in the image linked above?

For my Spanish ( http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm ) I
was working with a sleeve that deviated from the norm. It has a bit of
a curve to the bottom. That said in trying to convince myself of the
shape I looked at a lot of the more normal sleeves and the pattern I
developed would work if the line down the back were to taper to a
point rather than a curve. I can sent you a scaled diagram of it if
you like? I would definitely not cut the sleeves with the curve. it's
atypical and will not give the same look as in the typical style.

Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that
is laid flat:
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm It;s right at the top
of the page. It has a very shallow curve which is what made me finally
accept that I could have a deeper curve;)

>  Third question... the skirt - or petticoat, if you prefer. On Spanish
> gowns, there doesn't seem to be much pleating, if any, at the waist. Has
> anybody built a skirt this way? Any pointers?

Brilliant observation! Yes this is about the one constant in Spanish
dress that makes a gown Spanish rather than Italian or Flemish or
anything else. The fit smoothly as a cone at least as far as the side
back. Some people have interpretted the images as showing the skirts
to be smooth all the way around which certainly keeps that line
perfect from every angle. Also there is a portrait of Philip and his
daughters and they seem to have this style of skirt:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1583filipeandwives=
.jpg
(ignore the file name) There is enough room to have a little ease over
the lower half at the very least though.
I used Alcega and extant garments as above to have a smooth fitting
front and sides and then pleating in the very back to allow more
movement to my train. I found that scaling the skirts up as they are
you get a fairly large waist in proportion to the skirt but that you
can match side seams to side back seams and get a really nice fitted
front.
If you are not sure about buying Alcega then there are some very
similar patterns online:
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_b181.htm
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_f47.htm
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/patterns.htm
And that's just a quick list of patterns in Alcega.

>  Last question: what about headwear? Any ideas?

I don't think it is a hat, though Ana did wear them:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/anadeaustriacampis=
tudy.jpg


It seems Isabel de Valois might have brought a French fashion with her
for wearing jewels and a jewelled net thing (seriously hard to
describe) to Spain as it appears in both French and Spanish fashion:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/isabelreinacampist=
udy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/moreisabella.jpg
http://www.flg.es/ficha.asp?ID=3D2726
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1571coelloisabelcl=
ara.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1579isabellaclarac=
oellohair.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1571coellocatalina=
.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_37a.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10525_39a.jpg
I suspect some fake hair might be employed in some of these as there
would other wise be a strange penchant for dull nearly hair coloured
turbans...

Ana may be wearing that sort of arrangement (just her head):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/anadeaustria.jpg

And as a comparison, the French versions (which have also been
mistaken for small hats....)
http://www.rmn.fr/
I hope these tinyurl links work, the site has a tendancy to use
cookies and the like)

http://tinyurl.com/43u2ps
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN41;B301
Elisabeth, fille de Henri II, femme de Philippe II, roi d'Espagne
Hard to tell but that is a net and then her hair in braids behind
decorated with pearls.

http://tinyurl.com/3qr8uu
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN42;B366
Marguerite de France reine de Navarre, fille de Henri II, femme d'Henri
Same net arrangement and someoen afterwards filled in the hair, but
compare these two to the painted portrait from this sketch:
http://tinyurl.com/52g9l7
N=B0 d'inventaire : PE255
Marguerite de France, enfant
Clearly hair and pearls, the net is harder to see though, and she may
have a layer of sheer fabric as a base too.

http://tinyurl.com/3w65dy
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN342;B297
Dame inconnue
More clearly hair and jewels

http://tinyurl.com/3pemee
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN327;B308
Madame Mouy Saint-Phal (vers 1525-apr=E8s 1583)

http://tinyurl.com/484urj
N=B0 d'inventaire : PE254
Jeanne d'Albret, Reine de Navarre (1528-1572)
Another very clear hair and jewel arrangement

http://tinyurl.com/3qted7
N=B0 d'inventaire : INV3254
Elisabeth d'Autriche (1554-1592) Reine de France, femme de Charles IX
And the one closest to what we see on Isabel at least.

http://tinyurl.com/4vs9yj
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN22;B311
Marguerite de France, fille de Fran=E7ois Ier, duchesse de Savoie
http://tinyurl.com/4qezdh
N=B0 d'inventaire : MN41;B301
Elisabeth, fille de Henri II, femme de Philippe II, roi d'Espagne
These too are jewels and nets and braided hair.


So smooth skirts at the very least to the side back and hair either
bound with jewelled bands or small hats worn tilted to the front of
the head (often a combination of the two) and hanging sleeves of
several types. Oh and you are lucky! The portrait of Ana does not
having a matching carcanet and girdle! It is so hard finding enough
metal findings to make such matching items... very annoying.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Hi, 

I'd like to broaden my horizons in medieval and renaissance headwear, especially recreating, but a good source with illustrations and a nice text would also be welcome. What book would you suggest? Or books, if I wanted one for theory and one for recreating and constructing techniques? I found some useful tips in the Medieval tailor's assistant, but that's about it.

Thanks a lot for help,

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 
Online shop with costumes, silk and pearls






      
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> It looks like what is commonly called an "attifet" these days, but it is a 
> bit smaller and closer to the head.

Oh, you're right! It does look like an attifet! I hadn't seen it this way! 
But on a lot of paintings it's closer to a small round cap (Italian-style), 
with a teardrop-shaped pearl at the front of the hair part.

I have Margo's patterns, I'll see if I can adapt the attifet pattern. 
Thanks! 

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> http://www.margospatterns.com/

Yes, I have the first edition, and just rediscovered them recently, that's 
what got me to buy fabric :-)

> You could possibly adapted the
> Spanish sleeve into a bell sleeve.

Hm... I'll look into it. It would at least help me get the slit in the right 
position on the arm... 

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> Woot! Welcome to the dark side!

If you mean the dark side being Spanish costuming, then I'm happy to join 
you. If you mean that dress is dark, my fabric is a dark gold colour so it 
won't be nearly as dark as this one. It's the style I like :-)

> I can sent you a scaled diagram of it if you like?

It would be a good starting point, if you don't mind sending it.

> Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that
> is laid flat: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm

Two things bother me about this sleeve. On the site, she mentions that they 
were cut at the top to accomodate the statue, and also they seem to be two 
plain triangles, but on actual gowns the slit is not in the front - or is 
the sleeve simply worn slightly rotated?

> I used Alcega and extant garments as above to have a smooth fitting
> front and sides and then pleating in the very back to allow more
> movement to my train.

I looked at the patterns in Alcega yesterday night, but they didn't tell me 
much other than most outer gowns are cut in a semicircle.

> It seems Isabel de Valois might have brought a French fashion with her
> for wearing jewels and a jewelled net thing

Yes, it does seem that way. So I guess I could fudge it quickly with a 
pearled hair net until I find/make something more suitable. Some of them 
seem to have the small round Italian hat also, over the hair net thingie. 
Short hair is going to be a struggle for this one though :-) With medieval 
clothing I just hide it under the veil and wear fake braids...

> Oh and you are lucky! The portrait of Ana does not
> having a matching carcanet and girdle!

I hadn't even started thinking about that yet! I like pearls :-)

Thank you so much for the detailed answer! You really got my brain 
working...

Audrey 

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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Does anybody have a source in the Chicago area for
character shoes that Ansel might be able to purchase
without a long wait?

He will be a new character this year and therefore
will not be able to wear the sea captain boots his has
been wearing for the past couple of years. This year
he has a part in one of the stage shows - he will play
a baker - and he is working up a new street character,
where he is a bee keeper. 

He waited far too late to think about this. Bristol
opens in two weeks, so if we need to order we need to
order soon!!! 

Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Hi Zuzana,

Are you looking for books on millinery making in general? If so I suggest From the Neck Up, which you can get at http://www.hatbook.com/ .

If you are looking for a book just on medieval and renaissance hats in general, I've yet to find one myself, so I too would love to know of any books on the subject. The Tudor Tailor book does have a few patterns for medieval and Elizabethan hats, hoods, and coifs, along with other clothing patterns and info. The only hat focused stuff I've yet to find are usually people's bad interpretations of any particular styles (ie visor French Hoods), or are hand redrawn images of people's portraits (ie: Wilcox's The Mode in Hats and Headdress, which is usually more expensive than I am willing to pay for redrawings.) 

The other options have been picking up various hat patterns from those who do them well, such as Lynn McMasters' patterns http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/. I've also found a few places on the 'net, such as Cynthia Virtues site on medieval hats (and other stuff): http://www.virtue.to/articles/

If you, or anyone else knows a good book on medieval and renaissance hats, I would love to know.

Kimiko


--- On Sat, 6/28/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:

> What book would you suggest? Or books, if I wanted
> one for theory and one for recreating and constructing
> techniques? I found some useful tips in the Medieval
> tailor's assistant, but that's about it.



      
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Amazon Drygoods is in Iowa. (563) 322-6800. Don't know if they have anything
that might work.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 1:20 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Shoes

Does anybody have a source in the Chicago area for character shoes that
Ansel might be able to purchase without a long wait?

He will be a new character this year and therefore will not be able to wear
the sea captain boots his has been wearing for the past couple of years.
This year he has a part in one of the stage shows - he will play a baker -
and he is working up a new street character, where he is a bee keeper. 

He waited far too late to think about this. Bristol opens in two weeks, so
if we need to order we need to order soon!!! 

Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

No virus found in this incoming message.
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Or Jas.Townsend & Son, Inc., Ft. Wayne, Indiana. They have a store, too, as
well as online.
www.jas-townsend.com

Or can he buy from one of the Faire vendors?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 1:20 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Shoes

Does anybody have a source in the Chicago area for character shoes that
Ansel might be able to purchase without a long wait?

He will be a new character this year and therefore will not be able to wear
the sea captain boots his has been wearing for the past couple of years.
This year he has a part in one of the stage shows - he will play a baker -
and he is working up a new street character, where he is a bee keeper. 

He waited far too late to think about this. Bristol opens in two weeks, so
if we need to order we need to order soon!!! 

Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.101 / Virus Database: 270.4.2/1523 - Release Date: 6/28/2008
7:00 AM

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown
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> It has a bit of a curve to the bottom.

You're right, it has!

I just found the very last pattern in Alcega, on the folded sheet...

Woman's silk skirt and bodice with full-length pointed sleeve

Sounds like I hit the jackpot!

I can't make sense of the sleeve pattern though... I think I'll have to make 
a small paper mockup. I'll let you know how it turns out! 

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Subject: [h-cost] Help with Alcega was: Re:  Spanish gown
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> Yes. Alcega lists both gored and half circle skirts in his pattern

I'm using the very last pattern in Alcega, the last one on the folded sheet, 
for a gown with pointed sleeves. I've hit a little bump in the road, but 
I'll ask at the end of this email.

I want to make sure my measurements are right. If I were to use the pattern 
straight out of the book, I would end up with a front skirt panel that is 1 
ell wide at the bottom. In the first part of the book, he says the standard 
fabric is 2/3 of an ell wide, which would mean 56 cm, which I can confirm 
easily enough against the 1 ell width on my small paper mockup.

The back skirt panel is roughly 1 1/2 ell wide at ground height, so the 
total width of the skirt all around is about 5 ells. My current hoops are 3 
1/3 ells around (280 cm), so I'd have a nice amount of pleating in the back.

The skirt is meant to be 1 1/2 ells long (126 cm), which is a little too 
long for me, but not much (my current hoop is 102 cm long and roughly 2 
inches above ground).

The skirt is meant to be 3 ells long in the back which is completely insane, 
both in the amount of fabric it uses and in the hassle it will be to manage. 
I'm wondering if I shouldn't cut it by half. That is, instead of having 1 
1/2 ells of train, have only 3/4 ells of train. I'm still debating on this 
though. Making the pattern as was meant to be certainly has a lot of appeal!

Now, I have a problem. If I can trust my faithful little paper mockup, it 
seems that the waist will end up being exactly 2 ells around, with the two 
front panels representing 3/4 of an ell together, or 63 cm. This is enough 
to go completely around my waist! Spanish gowns were not pleated in front! 
How can I make this fit? Is this pattern for another style entirely? Is this 
simply a case of those being layouts and not patterns (everything else fits 
so nicely though!)? Or am I missing something important?

I'm very tempted to cut my fabric in strips 56 cm wide, then use the pattern 
almost as is, once I solve the waist width problem. Any tips? Insight?

Thank you to all who have answered so far, you're an immense help!

Audrey 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown
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At 04:33 29/06/2008, you wrote:
>>It has a bit of a curve to the bottom.
>
>You're right, it has!
>
>I just found the very last pattern in Alcega, on the folded sheet...
>
>Woman's silk skirt and bodice with full-length pointed sleeve
>
>Sounds like I hit the jackpot!
>
>I can't make sense of the sleeve pattern though... I think I'll have 
>to make a small paper mockup. I'll let you know how it turns out!

When you make up the narrow, inner sleeve, you might like to know 
that the inner seam, the one that runs inside the elbow, is whipped, 
on the outside, with a fairly hefty "gold" thread. I saw this 
painting somewhere, took a photo of the sleeve, but cannot now find 
it. It was very unusual, I thought.

Suzi

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have an early edition of this book from oh umteen years ago now...and I Hoope some of the problems have been fixed. I have a lot of prolems with the patterns "matching up" and ended upi having to redraft curve and things myself inorder to make them work... but it was a great book for ideas.
Bambi

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad

(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)

--- On Sat, 6/28/08, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear book suggestions
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, June 28, 2008, 4:59 PM

Hi Zuzana,

Are you looking for books on millinery making in general? If so I suggest From
the Neck Up, which you can get at http://www.hatbook.com/ .

If you are looking for a book just on medieval and renaissance hats in general,
I've yet to find one myself, so I too would love to know of any books on the
subject. The Tudor Tailor book does have a few patterns for medieval and
Elizabethan hats, hoods, and coifs, along with other clothing patterns and
info. The only hat focused stuff I've yet to find are usually people's
bad interpretations of any particular styles (ie visor French Hoods), or are
hand redrawn images of people's portraits (ie: Wilcox's The Mode in
Hats and Headdress, which is usually more expensive than I am willing to pay
for redrawings.) 

The other options have been picking up various hat patterns from those who do
them well, such as Lynn McMasters' patterns http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/.
I've also found a few places on the 'net, such as Cynthia Virtues site
on medieval hats (and other stuff): http://www.virtue.to/articles/

If you, or anyone else knows a good book on medieval and renaissance hats, I
would love to know.

Kimiko


--- On Sat, 6/28/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:

> What book would you suggest? Or books, if I wanted
> one for theory and one for recreating and constructing
> techniques? I found some useful tips in the Medieval
> tailor's assistant, but that's about it.



      
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> that the inner seam, the one that runs inside the elbow, is whipped, on 
> the outside, with a fairly hefty "gold" thread.

Yes, almost every Spanish gown I've looked at has this detail. Hard to know 
if this is gold cord, and if it serves a fuction other than decorative... 

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Subject: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown
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Good afternoon!

Yes, it's me again!

I still want to make this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

I found a pattern in Acega (the very last one, on the folded sheet, if you 
have it).

My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows unpleated 
skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt that would have 
to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each at the waist, as 
indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are even wider).

What would you do? Follow Alcega, or follow the portraits of the period?

Heeelllppp! 

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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>
> My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows 
> unpleated skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt 
> that would have to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each 
> at the waist, as indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are 
> even wider).
>
> What would you do? Follow Alcega, or follow the portraits of the period? 
FWIW, the skirts in Patterns of Fashion are flat for several inches in 
the front, and then deeply pleated on the sides and back. I think that's 
what I'd do.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear book suggestions
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At 15:09 29/06/2008, you wrote:
>I have an early edition of this book from oh umteen years ago 
>now...and I Hoope some of the problems have been fixed. I have a lot 
>of prolems with the patterns "matching up" and ended upi having to 
>redraft curve and things myself inorder to make them work... but it 
>was a great book for ideas.
>Bambi
>
>Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL
>
"From the Neck Up"

I have also had problems with this book - the text and instructions 
are fine, but I struggled with the patterns, and in fact think that 
some of them are just not made the way I would do them.

Suzi


>I am made for great things by GOD
>
>and walk with Pride!!!!
>
>Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
>
>(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
>
>--- On Sat, 6/28/08, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headwear book suggestions
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Saturday, June 28, 2008, 4:59 PM
>
>Hi Zuzana,
>
>Are you looking for books on millinery making in general? If so I suggest From
>the Neck Up, which you can get at http://www.hatbook.com/ .
>
>If you are looking for a book just on medieval and renaissance hats 
>in general,
>I've yet to find one myself, so I too would love to know of any books on the
>subject. The Tudor Tailor book does have a few patterns for medieval and
>Elizabethan hats, hoods, and coifs, along with other clothing patterns and
>info. The only hat focused stuff I've yet to find are usually people's
>bad interpretations of any particular styles (ie visor French Hoods), or are
>hand redrawn images of people's portraits (ie: Wilcox's The Mode in
>Hats and Headdress, which is usually more expensive than I am willing to pay
>for redrawings.)
>
>The other options have been picking up various hat patterns from those who do
>them well, such as Lynn McMasters' patterns http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/.
>I've also found a few places on the 'net, such as Cynthia Virtues site
>on medieval hats (and other stuff): http://www.virtue.to/articles/
>
>If you, or anyone else knows a good book on medieval and renaissance hats, I
>would love to know.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>--- On Sat, 6/28/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > What book would you suggest? Or books, if I wanted
> > one for theory and one for recreating and constructing
> > techniques? I found some useful tips in the Medieval
> > tailor's assistant, but that's about it.
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown
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Maybe the skirts are flat in front, under the pointed bodice, then pleated
at side and back. It just doesn't show much in the portrait, but there is
fullness you can see at the side bottom of the skirt. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 9:06 AM
To: SCA Garb; Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

Good afternoon!

Yes, it's me again!

I still want to make this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

I found a pattern in Acega (the very last one, on the folded sheet, if you
have it).

My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows unpleated
skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt that would have
to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each at the waist, as
indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are even wider).

What would you do? Follow Alcega, or follow the portraits of the period?

Heeelllppp! 

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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
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> My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows unpleated
> skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt that would have
> to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each at the waist, as
> indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are even wider).

As mentioned in my earlier email I follow Alcega, waide waistline and
all. I found the side seams of the skirt matched up nicely to the side
back seams of the bodice which meant the fullness of the back of the
skirt is arranged into a very narrow space. I found if I made the
front narrower and tried getting the seam to the side proper then the
whole skirt sat strangely. That was both with my test and final skirt.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valoisdiary.htm
This is not linked to from my main site pages as I am in the process
of shifting all the diaries to a new section.

And last night I found confirmation of my theory:
http://www.kalipedia.com/arte/tema/pintura.html?x=20070718klparthis_89.Kes&ap=3
While I have my doubts that this is Coello (the feel of the painting
is very Netherlandish) and it is post-mortem, the figure with her back
to us is Isabel de Valois (
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/isabeldevalois.htm  compare the
orange dress to the one in the above painting) and she appears to have
pleats that correspond to the pleats in my dress:
Back:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/otherhistoric/dress_1.jpg
Front:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/otherhistoric/valoisportfolio.jpg

Except that I do have a *little* more fullness than in the painting!
I'm going to put the pleats into permanent folds by roll pleating
later in the year as I think that will help keep the exess fabric
right in the very back where I want it and the tension in the pleats
will keep the fabric from falling too far forward.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown
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> As mentioned in my earlier email I follow Alcega, waide waistline and
> all.

That's what I'm going to do too. It's just too tempting an idea to say
I've made the dress from an actual pattern of the time :-)

> I found the side seams of the skirt matched up nicely to the side
> back seams of the bodice which meant the fullness of the back of the
> skirt is arranged into a very narrow space.

This won't work for me, though. The front panels alone are wide enough
to go completely around my waist. I'll have to pleat at the sides as
well as the back.

> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valoisdiary.htm

Wow, cool! Loooong diary!

> While I have my doubts that this is Coello (the feel of the painting
> is very Netherlandish) and it is post-mortem, the figure with her back
> to us is Isabel de Valois

Doesn't feel Spanish at all, does it? I was thinking it looked
English. In any case, it looks Northern to me...

Thank you!

Audrey
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> This won't work for me, though. The front panels alone are wide enough
>  to go completely around my waist. I'll have to pleat at the sides as
>  well as the back.

I scaled the pattern to fit me, so I went by the proportions on the pattern:
I took my length from waist to floor for a guide to the height, then
noted that the side seams matched the side back bodice, used my
measurement for that, then used the angle for the skirt side seams to
get my final measurement. Using the front panel I was able to work out
the back panel.
I suppose the method I used is based very much on the method of
scaling up used in Kohler. I just find it gives a really good and easy
way of scaling up proportionally.


Oh yeah and to add more fun to the mix. None of the extant items has
that tuck in the front of the skirt. Not the two cut down dresses for
the statues, not the little girl's c1600 dress. Alcega does not
mention them.

What I suspect is that the seam that lies across the front of the
faldallin (the half circle petticoats as opposed to gored) became a
fashion feature. It's entirely possible this seam (which falls exactly
as the tucks in the paintings do) crossed over into artwork, or the
skirts were on occasion cut the same way. I don't really think so
though given the pattern repeats in portraits don't bear this out. And
the faldallin are cut so there is no vertical seam in the front.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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> >
> > While I have my doubts that this is Coello (the feel of the painting
> > is very Netherlandish) and it is post-mortem, the figure with her back
> > to us is Isabel de Valois
>
> Doesn't feel Spanish at all, does it? I was thinking it looked
> English. In any case, it looks Northern to me...
>

http://www.kalipedia.com/arte/tema/pintura.html?x=20070718klparthis_89.Kes&ap=3


Since I don't have any understanding of the language this site is in,
can someone who does, check and see if they tell of the medium for the
painting?  If it's an oil painting and on panel (wood of some sort)
it's more likely to be Northern, while canvas was more typically used
for oil paintings in Italy, Spain, and France in this period.

There are exceptions to this generalization, of course, but the
Northern painters favored wood, the Southern painters favored canvas -
it wasn't until sometime after this period that the Northern painters
also moved to canvas as well.

alex
-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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> http://www.kalipedia.com/arte/tema/pintura.html?x=20070718klparthis_89.Kes&ap=3
>
> Since I don't have any understanding of the language this site is in,
> can someone who does, check and see if they tell of the medium for the
> painting?

They don't, unfortunately. Interesting remarks about the support though!
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Turns out Tammy won't be there because yet again Costume College is in
the middle of Pennsic, which accounts for a good part of her annual
sales!  But I'm hoping to find some willing dealer. I'm also inquiring
about some other things at CC, so we'll see.

By the way, I discovered yesterday that it's available for pre-order
at barnes & noble. Wheee!!!
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/A-Compendium-of-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/e/9780981840109/?itm=1

MaggiRos
~just too excited . . .



On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 11:10 AM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
> I should talk to Tammy (TL Barnes) and Hedgehog Handworks to see if
> they they want to stock it. Since I don't have a space in the
> Merchants' room, it could be awkward selling out of a hotel room :-)
> Thanks for the idea!
>
>
>
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Perhaps AlterYears? Or there is one other bookseller, that sits behind Dragon's Treasure near the second door, but I don't remember their name and I am not seeing them listed in the CC web site. They sell used books, and some new ones, too. Bob & Lisa from Dragon's Treasure knows them, as they are friends. I am sadly blanking on the lady's name.

Kimiko


--- On Mon, 6/30/08, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Compendium of Common Knowledge
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Monday, June 30, 2008, 8:21 AM
> Turns out Tammy won't be there because yet again Costume
> College is in
> the middle of Pennsic, which accounts for a good part of
> her annual
> sales!  But I'm hoping to find some willing dealer.
> I'm also inquiring
> about some other things at CC, so we'll see.



      
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Subject: [h-cost] Patterns on eBay
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Hello! I've put a few of my patterns on eBay, if anyone wants to get them at a discount. One is at 1/3 the usual price, the 
1825-1830 Day Dress. It is a size Small. I have reworked the pattern to include all sizes 2-30, so I am letting go of my old stock.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com


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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, gbacgcostumers@yahoogroups.com,
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume College 2008
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(Sorry for the cross post.)


My friend purchased a non-member membership to Costume College (at $95) and
now finds she can't attend. Since she's out of email connection today, I
promised I'd send a message to you all to see if anyone is interested in
taking over her membership.  If you're interested, please contact her
directly at pinkdepforddoll@gmail.com and mention Costume College membership
in your subject line.

Thanks,
LynnD
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown
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> http://www.kalipedia.com/arte/tema/pintura.html?x=20070718klparthis_89.Kes&ap=3

> Since I don't have any understanding of the language this site is in,
>  can someone who does, check and see if they tell of the medium for the
>  painting?  If it's an oil painting and on panel (wood of some sort)
>  it's more likely to be Northern, while canvas was more typically used
>  for oil paintings in Italy, Spain, and France in this period.

Oh! That makes sense! Recently I judged an SCA A&S contest and in the
"household" class was a lovely bookbinding display, including a
reprint of an article. In it it discusses that the majority of book
covers from the North are made from wood while most of those from
Italy are made from pasting layers of the first pages together- this
was from a single though large collection. I do wonder if it has
anything to do with bora and other wildlife that eats wood as the few
wooden book covers from Italy are full of such creatures.

I did initially find the image on another site and it is also
available on AllPosters.com
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Uczta_monarsza.jpg

Then again as there were several Northern Artists at work in spain at
various times it would not really mean it is invalid (Anthonis Mor,
Juan di Flandres, Peter paul Pourbus etc etc) but it may mean the
painting was meant for a client further north.

Hmmm his painting of the Port of Seville in 1498 also shows the same
looseness of style.
http://www.allposters.com/-st/Alonso-Sanchez-Coello-Posters_c65778_.htm
That may have been oil on canvas (according to another poster site).

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown
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> Oh! That makes sense! Recently I judged an SCA A&S contest and in the
> "household" class was a lovely bookbinding display, including a
> reprint of an article. In it it discusses that the majority of book
> covers from the North are made from wood while most of those from
> Italy are made from pasting layers of the first pages together- this
> was from a single though large collection. I do wonder if it has
> anything to do with bora and other wildlife that eats wood as the few
> wooden book covers from Italy are full of such creatures.
>
> I did initially find the image on another site and it is also
> available on AllPosters.com
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Uczta_monarsza.jpg
>

I think most of the art historians think it has to do with climate.
It's much easier to get air to the back of a canvas panel than it is
to a wooden one, and warpage was a big issue.  Climate was one of the
major influences that encouraged oil painting to be "developed" in the
North, made popular and then have it move South.  I say "developed"
because it was used earlier than the credited "discovery" of oil
painting, of about 1410 by Hubert or John Van Eyck.  Prior to this,
the means to dry an oil painting involved sitting it in the sun.
Which if it wasn't done right, could cause the paint to crackle,
ruining a painting before it might even be finished.  It's believed
probably Hubert, the older brother did some experimenting with
additives to the oil to get something that would dry in the shade and
not be quite so temperamental.
into the fifteen century there's comments by the Flemish artists that
comment on those outrageous Italians that paint on canvas, and once
the painting is dry to roll it and carry it about.

Anyway, I did a survey of 16th century portraits recently and it did
seem to follow that the Northern areas, England included did more
panel paintings, and Italy, France and Spain were more canvas
oriented.  Oh, and if anyone cares, it didn't seem to matter if you
were royalty or just in that upper class as to the size of the
portrait painting, or proportions of the piece - though a ratio
similar to the standard canvases available today was used.

alex
looking at paintings because they're paintings these days, rather than
just for the costume content, but finding much of the accumulative
library working with this new study as well as the old subjects.
-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
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Probably Margaret Mannatt, aka The Gilded Bat.

Sandy

At 02:41 PM 6/30/2008, you wrote:
>Perhaps AlterYears? Or there is one other bookseller, that sits 
>behind Dragon's Treasure near the second door, but I don't remember 
>their name and I am not seeing them listed in the CC web site. They 
>sell used books, and some new ones, too. Bob & Lisa from Dragon's 
>Treasure knows them, as they are friends. I am sadly blanking on the 
>lady's name.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>--- On Mon, 6/30/08, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Compendium of Common Knowledge
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Date: Monday, June 30, 2008, 8:21 AM
> > Turns out Tammy won't be there because yet again Costume
> > College is in
> > the middle of Pennsic, which accounts for a good part of
> > her annual
> > sales!  But I'm hoping to find some willing dealer.
> > I'm also inquiring
> > about some other things at CC, so we'll see.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Yes, I do believe that is correct. I just couldn't remember their business name at all, and her name was slipping from my swiss cheese memory, but I could remember her face. She's always so nice to talk to.

Kimiko


--- On Mon, 6/30/08, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:

> Probably Margaret Mannatt, aka The Gilded Bat.
> 
> Sandy



      
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While we're on the subject of Spanish gowns...I'm very intrigued with  
the Spanish Mourning gown, as seen in Alcega.  It looks like a front  
buttoned doublet bodice and conical skirt in the front, but the back  
is one piece, very flared from the shoulders, with a false bodice  
underneath it, just like the saque backed gowns of the 18th century.

I've drafted it, and hope to get around to making up a prototype,  
with an eventual aim of producing it as a pattern. I think it would  
be good for those of us whose weight fluctuates, or for theatrical or  
rental wardrobes, and even for that awkward stage of pregnancy when  
none of your regular clothes fit but you don't really look pregnant yet.

I'm wondering about that "mourning" name, though.  Is anyone familiar  
with Spanish mourning customs of the period, who could tell me why on  
earth such a gown would be labeled thus?

Margo
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