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	Do you have a URL for the patterns, Deb? What should we look under?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
publisher of=A0 books by Lorina Stephens
purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens
Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens
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=A0=A0=A0 Recipes of a Dumb Housewife,=A0by=A0Lorina=A0Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org -
http://5riversnews.blogspot.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with Alcega was: Re: Spanish gown
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>  I'm very tempted to cut my fabric in strips 56 cm wide, then use the
> pattern almost as is, once I solve the waist width problem. Any tips?
> Insight?

This is how I have cut mine :) I folded my fabric in half and cut in
the fold, which is sort of like cutting 2 single widths of period
silk. As my waist to floor length is proportionally quite long I wound
up having to piece my front panels as well. As mentioned I tried
cutting the fronts narrower (to just the width of the cut fabric) but
it sat very badly on my hoops and so I gave up and just continued with
my proportional method.

I took the sloping sides of the pattern piece and extended the line up
and down until I wound up with a triangle with the apex on the CF and
CB lines. I then look my waist to side back measurement and found
where that would sit between the CF and sloping lines. Then I took my
waist to floor measurement and went from the waist line down the CF
line and from waist down the sloping line. Then connected the two in
an arc.
For the back I started in a similar manner but worked out the CB line
as a ratio of the CF line and ditto for the waist. I then followed the
line of the hem and chopped some of the train off! I lobe long trains
but I decided that long enough was long enough.

I even made scale diagrams of the original to match the 1/8 patterns
in PoF (and the c1600 Spanish girl's dress in Payne's book) and
compared proportions of front and back panels and decided that yes,
the back needed to be wider and that I needed to scale it up to fit
me. While the Alcega patterns don't show piecing in the front skirt
panels the extant items can. Also the Spanish girl's dress has a back
panel wider than the front as does the Dorothea Sabine and another
little girl's dress in poF. The Eleanora and Dorothea Maria though
have narrower back panels than the front.

My Valois gown with the full hanging sleeves only took 8m of 112cm
wide fabric and as mentioned with a long waist to floor length that's
quite impressive, especially with that train!

I adpated the farthingale pattern too. I don't know if you have
noticed but all the skirts look very long compared to the bodices and
appear to be a similar length to the farthingale. For this reason I
really recommend not putting in tucks but rather sew on channels as we
know was done. There are plenty of texts in Corsets and Crinolines and
Hispanic Costume to show the use of contrasting or matching channels.
My farthingale is currently in the process of an Extreme Makeover
(much like the home show it will not have any part of the original
left ;) It's going to be bright lime green (if possible) in a silk
twill I bought in pistachio green, and have wine toned velvet casings
if I can budget it.
There will also be enough to make a matching corset (corpo
baxo/corpino) though they tended to match the kirtle- thus why Alcega
has them in the same pattern quite often ;)

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown
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>> Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that
>> is laid flat: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm
>
> Two things bother me about this sleeve. On the site, she mentions that they
> were cut at the top to accomodate the statue, and also they seem to be two
> plain triangles, but on actual gowns the slit is not in the front - or is
> the sleeve simply worn slightly rotated?

"She" is me, it is my site. I'm really not sure what you mean, the
sleeve is absolutely fine the way it is it is just the lack of the top
of the sleeve head that makes the sleeve look a little odd. What we
see on each side is the outside panel, as it lays so flat is it
possible the underside matches the outer very well.
I also said *probably* cut to fit the satue :)

This is my pattern:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/webpatternvaloissleeves.jpg
(sorry for the huge text, but I've had this pattern used without any
discussion with me and I'd like people to know who created the
pattern;) If for no other reason than they can ask me why it is shaped
the way it is because it is not normal!)

As you can see they are close but not quite the same laid flat as the
extant sleeves and rather different to the usual. A lovely lady here
created the perfect sleeves for her laurelling ceremony:
http://helois.250free.com/projects/gallery_cc.htm
Her work is absolutely beautiful and she has gone the route of
adapting Alcega et al to reduce the back fullness.
http://www.australiancostumersguild.org.au/index.php?ind=news&op=news_show_single&ide=13
This lady has the more usual sleeves as well.

I did use the painting of Isabella Clara to work out approximately the
angle the top line (shoulder to wrist) would need to be as you can see
the brocade pattern neatly interrupted in that portrait in particular.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1584fdellanaisabella.jpg
It also shows the back line of the sleeve to be cut in line with the
selvages and the line of the bottom half of the sleeve is angled
inwards from wrist to tip (So I think that pattern would wind up
looking a bit like a kite if opened up).
My sleeve is on the straight at the front because it appears to be so
in the Valois portrait. Another point of difference to the usual (note
the way the sleeve appears to wave somewhat in the Isabela Clara
portrait while in the Valois the sleeves hang very straight (not just
because of the weight of the pearls and jewels either!)

> I looked at the patterns in Alcega yesterday night, but they didn't tell me
> much other than most outer gowns are cut in a semicircle.

Which ones are those? Faldallin as a kind of petticoat and the other
semi-circular patterns are mantles.

And for interest here is the layout I used for my Valois:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/webpatternvalois.jpg
The skirt front did not have a join across the front, that is just
because I couldn't fit the entire piece on that part of the layout.
Oh yes, the doublet was adapted from the pattern of the extant jerkin
at the Metropolitan museum:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/hob_26.196.htm

Regards,
Michela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with Alcega was: Re: Spanish gown
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> me. While the Alcega patterns don't show piecing in the front skirt

Ah, the pattern with the long pointed sleeves does, though. It's drawn as a 
cone, and the point has to be taken off and used to complete the bottom side 
of the front panel.

> Also the Spanish girl's dress has a back panel wider than the front as 
> does the Dorothea Sabine

As well as Alcega, at least that makes sense.

> I don't know if you have
> noticed but all the skirts look very long compared to the bodices

The pattern I'm using seems reasonable enough. the skirt ends up 126 cm 
long, which is not excessive, if a little long on me (my hoops are 102 cm 
long and sit 2-3 inches above ground).

> Extreme Makeover

Please send pics when you're done...

> There will also be enough to make a matching corset (corpo
> baxo/corpino) though they tended to match the kirtle- thus why Alcega
> has them in the same pattern quite often ;)

I'm not there yet. I'm using my Margo's Patterns underpinnings. This will be 
the next step :-) 

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> This is my pattern:

That's an interesting shape to say the least!

> http://www.australiancostumersguild.org.au/index.php?ind=news&op=news_show_single&ide=13

Beautiful!

> the bottom half of the sleeve is angled
> inwards from wrist to tip (So I think that pattern would wind up
> looking a bit like a kite if opened up).

More like a bat, actually :-) I'll send pics when I can. The Alcega pattern 
really is cool. I couldn't figure it out until I traced it on some scrap 
paper and cut out the shapes. Then it suddenly all made sense :-)

Thanks for the patterns. I love seeing your work!

Audrey 

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>  More like a bat, actually :-) I'll send pics when I can. The Alcega pattern
> really is cool. I couldn't figure it out until I traced it on some scrap
> paper and cut out the shapes. Then it suddenly all made sense :-)

Yes the Alcega is much narrower than most of the examples in art, so
it's not going to be quite the same shape as you would get
extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve
up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own
pattern.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Hi folks,

I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests.  I've got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the others.  I've made this vest before, and I can probably figure it out, but since I need them finished by the end of the week, I really don't want to have to.  Does anyone have this pattern and would be willing to scan pages 3 and 4 of the directions and email them to me?  I have the first page, just not the rest.

Thanks,

Melusine
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Don't you just hate that!!!

It happens too often when I get patterns from eBay. From now on its going to
be in my standard list of questions when buying patterns.


Sidney

On Wed, Jul 2, 2008 at 5:56 PM, Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests.
>  I've got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm
> missing the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the
> same as the others.  I've made this vest before, and I can probably figure
> it out, but since I need them finished by the end of the week, I really
> don't want to have to.  Does anyone have this pattern and would be willing
> to scan pages 3 and 4 of the directions and email them to me?  I have the
> first page, just not the rest.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Melusine
>
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Subject: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale
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An interesting clothing outcome of the Texas FLDS issue:

http://www.azcentral.com/news/articles/2008/07/02/20080702FLDSDress.html

http://fldsdress.com/

I was surprised to find others who were interested by the hairstyles and women's clothing.  While I wouldn't want to be forced to wear them, I do like them.

Sg
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 Don't you just hate that!!!
>
> It happens too often when I get patterns from eBay. From now on its going 
> to
> be in my standard list of questions when buying patterns.
>
>
> Sidney

I bought this one new, I've just used it a lot and can't remember where I 
might have put the rest of the instructions.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale
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Looking at their site, I was surprised to see so much of their clothing is
polyester or a polyester blend. In the southwest, it gets really hot and
polyester just doesn't breathe. I think they would have better luck with
their business if they used 100% cotton. Putting those kids in poly in the
summer might count as child abuse! (just kidding)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:08 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale

An interesting clothing outcome of the Texas FLDS issue:

http://www.azcentral.com/news/articles/2008/07/02/20080702FLDSDress.html

http://fldsdress.com/

I was surprised to find others who were interested by the hairstyles and
women's clothing.  While I wouldn't want to be forced to wear them, I do
like them.

Sg
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Hey, as one living in the southwest, I have to agree with you!  lol

Cactus


--- On Wed, 7/2/08, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:

> From: Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 2, 2008, 3:24 PM
> Looking at their site, I was surprised to see so much of
> their clothing is
> polyester or a polyester blend. In the southwest, it gets
> really hot and
> polyester just doesn't breathe. I think they would have
> better luck with
> their business if they used 100% cotton. Putting those kids
> in poly in the
> summer might count as child abuse! (just kidding)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:08 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale
> 
> An interesting clothing outcome of the Texas FLDS issue:
> 
> http://www.azcentral.com/news/articles/2008/07/02/20080702FLDSDress.html
> 
> http://fldsdress.com/
> 
> I was surprised to find others who were interested by the
> hairstyles and
> women's clothing.  While I wouldn't want to be
> forced to wear them, I do
> like them.
> 
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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> Checked by AVG. 
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> 7:26 AM
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
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One suggestion for sewing silk velvet or other slick fabrics. Starch it. Sp=
ray starch can be misted away or left in for a long while. I found that whe=
n I sew slick fabrics that move alot is to tape the edges about 1/4 inch in=
 from the edge. Scotch tape or masking tape. There is also the water soluab=
le fabrics used for quilting or other sewing. If necessary.... stick freeze=
r paper to it and sew. (Iron the waxy side to the back of the fabric with a=
 light heat iron.) Remove the paper later when all the stitching is done. T=
he fabric is sometimes hard to manouver around corners but it does make it =
keep it's shape, no warping or stretching out of size limitations. No need =
to fudge that seam matching stuff with it.
I made a ballerina tutu with satin. That's the only way to deal with that r=
avelly stuff... the hit the edges with seam sealer or fray check.Sincerely,=
 Rebecca Rautine> From: audreybmorin@gmail.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Da=
te: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 21:54:06 -0400> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown> > >=
 This is my pattern:> > That's an interesting shape to say the least!> > > =
http://www.australiancostumersguild.org.au/index.php?ind=3Dnews&op=3Dnews_s=
how_single&ide=3D13> > Beautiful!> > > the bottom half of the sleeve is ang=
led> > inwards from wrist to tip (So I think that pattern would wind up> > =
looking a bit like a kite if opened up).> > More like a bat, actually :-) I=
'll send pics when I can. The Alcega pattern > really is cool. I couldn't f=
igure it out until I traced it on some scrap > paper and cut out the shapes=
. Then it suddenly all made sense :-)> > Thanks for the patterns. I love se=
eing your work!> > Audrey > > _____________________________________________=
__> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com=
/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Watch =93Cause Effect,=94 a show about real people making a real difference=
.  Learn more.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=3Dtext_watchcause
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=A0=A0 I noticed some articles while doing research for my newsletter. I ha=
ve mixed feelings, because while it might enable some of them to support th=
eir kids away from the cult, there's always the possibility that the money =
could end up being given to members of it. After all, there's no guarantee =
that they'll remain outside after the court case is over.On the other hand,=
 some of our everyday clothing is being made in sweatshops.Carol
 =

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Just search eBay for 'Mantua Maker', or try:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280241030657&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=018

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

Do you have a URL for the patterns, Deb? What should we look under?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
publisher of? books by Lorina Stephens
purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens
Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina?Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org -
http://5riversnews.blogspot.com

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>  I'm wondering about that "mourning" name, though.  Is anyone familiar with
> Spanish mourning customs of the period, who could tell me why on earth such
> a gown would be labeled thus?


I wonder if it's not because it was reminiscent of a nun's habit?
http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=6mAIAAAAQAAJ
Mongia, f.f. a monastery
Mongil, f. m. a sort of mourning weed for a woman, also the habit of any nun.
Mongil, f. m. the estate or condition of a nun
Mongil allibaxo, a long woman's gown or garment all of a piece.

And Minsheu (1599)
http://www.ems.kcl.ac.uk/content/proj/anglo/dict/pro-anglo-dict-main.html
Mongia,f.monkerie
Mongil,m.a monks garment, a mourning garment for a woman
Mongilon, a mourning garment for a woman.

In the men's section there are some religious themed garments as well.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Sorry for the late response Margo - been outta' town.  I don't know if it helps, but Desert Torch Tailoring, Mathew Gnagy, has been making this gown for years.  There are pictures of it in the Gallery Menu on the website.  I can't give you a direct link, but if you go to the Gallery Menu and then look at both the 2002 & 2003 historical female you will see several made up.  http://www.deserttorch.com

I took a Sartor method drafting class from Mathew a few (or so) years ago and he allowed us to copy any of his patterns - I took notes on this one.  But don't have an answer for the translation question.  You are absolutely right it is wonderful for weight fluctuations and pregnancy.

I know this doesn't answer your question, but Mathew is very knowledgeable and would probably be happy to answer any questions you have.  If you need his contact information feel free to contact me off list. I don't see any contact info on the website anymore - he and his partner have split up - he is in New York working for a dance company these days.

Sg

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I read about this in this month's Thread's magazine.  Has anyone used it yet?  If so, what do you think?

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/5590684-AA.shtml

Sg
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Threads says the formula for synthetics is suitable for polyester and nylon.  Probably straight from the press release.

But nylon is relatively easy to dye -- use acid dyes, the same as silk and wool.  

And polyester is pretty much impossible to dye, and has consumed many a textile chemist's career coloring the polyester before it's ever spun.

So I'm really curious about how this is supposed to work.


Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 7/3/08, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
> I read about this in this month's Thread's magazine.
>  Has anyone used it yet?  If so, what do you think?
> 
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/5590684-AA.shtml
> 
> Sg


      
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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
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> Yes the Alcega is much narrower than most of the examples in art, so
>  it's not going to be quite the same shape as you would get
>  extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve
>  up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own
>  pattern.


Actually, now that I've looked again, it's really not that much
narrower, a fair bit than many but not to a great degree, I got fooled
a bit by the way it was laid out. So here is a side by side comparison
of the Alcega pattern, my pattern and the extant Manga de Punta:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/mangas.jpg
Note how the pieces don't quite match up in Alcega, but then again
they really aren't patterns but a guideline.
Oh and my sleeves are a bit more pointy now. When I relined them and
then relined them again they tapered a bit more from armscye to tip.

The front curve in the Alcega looks like the start of the cut away
style seen in a few early 16thC gowns heavily influenced by the
Spanish fashion.



Regards,
Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: [h-cost] crepines?
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A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls?
I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound danish to me att all.......

Thanks

Bjarne  
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Is it crepins, crepin or crepine? You wrote it three different ways...
It could be French, but I'm not sure exactly what it means (yet!).

On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls?
> I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound danish to me att all.......
>
> Thanks
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Sorry for the confusion, the word is CREPINER and when the word ends with ER 
it is multiple.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?


> Is it crepins, crepin or crepine? You wrote it three different ways...
> It could be French, but I'm not sure exactly what it means (yet!).
>
> On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>> A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of 
>> the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, 
>> gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a 
>> pannier with matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in 
>> french, german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers 
>> with? Rolls?
>> I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard 
>> anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins 
>> dont sound danish to me att all.......
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I did a quick google search and the word "crepin" (Singular?) shows up
frequently as a name- various people and seems to be a location names
as well.  I think there's a disease as well.
the word "crepiner" shows up again as a name, though not as much under
the first search, and as I believe a piece of a musical instrument.
I'm not 100% sure of the context, since the original site was danish
and I was looking at a translated version.  There were a number of
danish sites and/or books on the web that used this word.  You want to
take a look and see.

alex

On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 10:16 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Sorry for the confusion, the word is CREPINER and when the word ends with ER
> it is multiple.
>
> Bjarne
>>> A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of
>>> the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings,
>>> gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier
>>> with matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in french,
>>> german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls?
>>> I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard
>>> anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins
>>> dont sound danish to me att all.......
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Bjarne
-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
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All right, I knew I'd seen cr=E9pine somewhere...

In French, it's usually used for the hairnet worn under veils and hair
bands in the Middle Ages. Doesn't mean it's not used for something
else, but that's the common meaning. I'll search some more...
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
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Me again!

It seems to be also a coif of some sort. It's also written crespine. I
don't know if we have the same cr=E9pine as the one you're looking for,
but in French, that's what it means.

However... logically, it comes from cr=EApe, or the verb cr=EAper, which
can mean to ruffle or pleat in some instances, so I don't think it
would be far-fetched to think it could mean a crinoline or something
of the kind.

I wish I had dictionaries with me here!

Good luck!

Audrey

On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 12:00 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin
<audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
> All right, I knew I'd seen cr=E9pine somewhere...
>
> In French, it's usually used for the hairnet worn under veils and hair
> bands in the Middle Ages. Doesn't mean it's not used for something
> else, but that's the common meaning. I'll search some more...
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
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At 17:35 04/07/2008, you wrote:
>Me again!
>
>It seems to be also a coif of some sort. It's also written crespine. I
>don't know if we have the same cr=E9pine as the one you're looking for,
>but in French, that's what it means.
>
>However... logically, it comes from cr=EApe, or the verb cr=EAper, which
>can mean to ruffle or pleat in some instances, so I don't think it
>would be far-fetched to think it could mean a crinoline or something
>of the kind.
>
>I wish I had dictionaries with me here!

It does not appear in my French-English =

dictionary, which I admit is not comprehensive. =

Bjarne I assume you have looked in Danish =

dictionaries? I can't find my Danish-English =

dictionary right now - I suspect it's hiding under some pocket hoops.

Suzi


>Good luck!
>
>Audrey
>
>On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 12:00 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin
><audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
> > All right, I knew I'd seen cr=E9pine somewhere...
> >
> > In French, it's usually used for the hairnet worn under veils and hair
> > bands in the Middle Ages. Doesn't mean it's not used for something
> > else, but that's the common meaning. I'll search some more...
> >
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Hi all,
 
My 15 year old is in summer school for a production of "Jekyll & Hyde: The Musical" (which concept, btw, makes my skin crawl).  The performance dates are Aug. 2 &3.  Surprise, surprise, parents are responsible for providing the costumes, but the only guidelines are very skimpy.  For example, low class "street women" are to wear button-up shirts, long full skirts, long sweaters, hats, vests and fingerless gloves in tan, brown, grey and black.  "Upper class" women can wear dark primary colors and the only thing different on the list is that their gloves are not fingerless!  
 
With this description we were supposed to *deliver* costumes last Thursday (after 5 days notice) for approval.  The only thing we were able to come up with at second hand stores was a straw(ish) hat with flowers that looked, from a distance, sorta like a bonnet (I argued that a poor person was more likely to wear something old fashioned).  This item did not get approved.  Oh, and did I mention that the person in charge of costumes is one of the (high school) students?  Sigh.
 
This is absolutely not my period, and my mind skims along with notions of Civil War and gay nineties images with a hint of "My Fair Lady" and Dickens butting in every so often.
 
At any rate, my questions are these;
 
Is it acceptable to make something fairly period looking if the rest of the cast is wearing ankle length gauze skirts from the 1960's and the "costumer" seems to be offering nothing more than veto?
 
Are there any Commercial (read: likely to be had for $1.99 at Jo Ann's) patterns available that can be made by a 15 year old in 2 weeks with only advice and fitting help from Mom?  If not, are there some "iconic" images that we can use to alter some existing pattern?
 
Are my daughter and I crazy to be offering to make these costumes (yes, she needs 3) without far more detailed expectaions up front?
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
Laurie
 
 
 
 
 
 
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zelda crusher wrote:
>  For example, low class "street women" are to wear button-up shirts, long full skirts, long sweaters, hats, vests and fingerless gloves in tan, brown, grey and black.  "Upper class" women can wear dark primary colors and the only thing different on the list is that their gloves are not fingerless!  
>  
>   
*snip*
> Is it acceptable to make something fairly period looking if the rest of the cast is wearing ankle length gauze skirts from the 1960's and the "costumer" seems to be offering nothing more than veto?
>   

Since the whole wardrobe seems to be a mish-mash from the start, I don't 
see why not.

>  
> Are there any Commercial (read: likely to be had for $1.99 at Jo Ann's) patterns available that can be made by a 15 year old in 2 weeks with only advice and fitting help from Mom?  If not, are there some "iconic" images that we can use to alter some existing pattern?
>   
There are no commercial costume patterns I'd recommend. Simplicity has 
gotten rid of most of their "historical" except the civil war gowns, and 
the other makers don't cover 19th century at all.

McCalls 2260 is a variety of easy vests, perhaps one of those will pass 
approval. McCall is on sale for $1.99 this weekend at Joann's.

You can get directions for a simple long full skirt suitable for your 
play, here: http://www.reddawn.net/costume/skirt.htm   

I have had good luck getting cheap gloves in black, grey or white from 
wedding vendors on ebay.


>  
> Are my daughter and I crazy to be offering to make these costumes (yes, she needs 3) without far more detailed expectaions up front?

Yes.  You should corner this kid with a handful of pictures and get 
approval for something, or a solid  idea of what will pass ASAP.



Dawn


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Thank you, Dawn, I had hoped you would reply.  Your knowledge base is so varied and always practical!
Laurie> Subject: Re: [h-cost] play costume 1888> > zelda crusher wrote:> > For example, low class "street women" are to wear button-up shirts, long full skirts, long sweaters, hats, vests and fingerless gloves in tan, brown, grey and black. "Upper class" women can wear dark primary colors and the only thing different on the list is that their gloves are not fingerless! > > > > > *snip*> > Is it acceptable to make something fairly period looking if the rest of the cast is wearing ankle length gauze skirts from the 1960's and the "costumer" seems to be offering nothing more than veto?> > > > Since the whole wardrobe seems to be a mish-mash from the start, I don't > see why not.> > > > > Are there any Commercial (read: likely to be had for $1.99 at Jo Ann's) patterns available that can be made by a 15 year old in 2 weeks with only advice and fitting help from Mom? If not, are there some "iconic" images that we can use to alter some existing pattern?> > > There are no commercial!
  costume patterns I'd recommend. Simplicity has > gotten rid of most of their "historical" except the civil war gowns, and > the other makers don't cover 19th century at all.> > McCalls 2260 is a variety of easy vests, perhaps one of those will pass > approval. McCall is on sale for $1.99 this weekend at Joann's.> > You can get directions for a simple long full skirt suitable for your > play, here: http://www.reddawn.net/costume/skirt.htm > > I have had good luck getting cheap gloves in black, grey or white from > wedding vendors on ebay.> > > > > > Are my daughter and I crazy to be offering to make these costumes (yes, she needs 3) without far more detailed expectaions up front?> > Yes. You should corner this kid with a handful of pictures and get > approval for something, or a solid idea of what will pass ASAP.>  > Dawn> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
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> Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 12:35:54 -0400
> From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <16a2233a0807040935x3b82b978qf456a97861dbab55@mail.gmail.com>
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> 
> Me again!
> 
> It seems to be also a coif of some sort. It's also written crespine. I
> don't know if we have the same cr?pine as the one you're looking for,
> but in French, that's what it means.
> 
> However... logically, it comes from cr?pe, or the verb cr?per, which
> can mean to ruffle or pleat in some instances, so I don't think it
> would be far-fetched to think it could mean a crinoline or something
> of the kind.
> 
> I wish I had dictionaries with me here!
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Audrey
> 
Could it be a ruffle to go around the bottom of the pannier? 

Claire
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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] CREPINER
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Hi all,
Thanks a lot for all your suggestions and thoaghts about the word CREPINER.
A friend in Sweden wich has almost same language as danish, told me that they have the same word, and that it meens ruffles. Either gathered or pleated ruffles.
So with a pannier, it would be ruffles at the bottom perhaps.
I just wanted to tell you, that the word was found.
Thankyou!

Bjarne
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
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I looked up the word in both my French  and Italian dictionaries. Both
"crepiter" (French) and "crepitare" (Italian), mean "to rustle", so could it
be a petticoat that makes a rustling noise, like taffeta?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] crepines?

A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the
bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves,
piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with
matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for
crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls?
I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything
similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound
danish to me att all.......

Thanks

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] play costume 1888
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Where do you live? And what size is your daughter?
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of zelda crusher
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:25 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] play costume 1888


Hi all,
 
My 15 year old is in summer school for a production of "Jekyll & Hyde: The
Musical" (which concept, btw, makes my skin crawl).  The performance dates
are Aug. 2 &3.  Surprise, surprise, parents are responsible for providing
the costumes, but the only guidelines are very skimpy.  For example, low
class "street women" are to wear button-up shirts, long full skirts, long
sweaters, hats, vests and fingerless gloves in tan, brown, grey and black.
"Upper class" women can wear dark primary colors and the only thing
different on the list is that their gloves are not fingerless!  
 
With this description we were supposed to *deliver* costumes last Thursday
(after 5 days notice) for approval.  The only thing we were able to come up
with at second hand stores was a straw(ish) hat with flowers that looked,
from a distance, sorta like a bonnet (I argued that a poor person was more
likely to wear something old fashioned).  This item did not get approved.
Oh, and did I mention that the person in charge of costumes is one of the
(high school) students?  Sigh.
 
This is absolutely not my period, and my mind skims along with notions of
Civil War and gay nineties images with a hint of "My Fair Lady" and Dickens
butting in every so often.
 
At any rate, my questions are these;
 
Is it acceptable to make something fairly period looking if the rest of the
cast is wearing ankle length gauze skirts from the 1960's and the "costumer"
seems to be offering nothing more than veto?
 
Are there any Commercial (read: likely to be had for $1.99 at Jo Ann's)
patterns available that can be made by a 15 year old in 2 weeks with only
advice and fitting help from Mom?  If not, are there some "iconic" images
that we can use to alter some existing pattern?
 
Are my daughter and I crazy to be offering to make these costumes (yes, she
needs 3) without far more detailed expectaions up front?
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
Laurie
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines?
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>I looked up the word in both my French  and Italian dictionaries. Both
> "crepiter" (French) and "crepitare" (Italian), mean "to rustle", so could =

> it
> be a petticoat that makes a rustling noise, like taffeta?

No, this is not from cr=E9piter, this is from cr=EAper, or the old spelling =

cresper (to ruffle). Not the same origin at all. (You can't remove the =

"iter" in the verb to make another word, it loses its meaning. If it was =

from "cr=E9piter", it would have become something like "cr=E9pitine", not =

"cr=E9pine".) Well, in French at least. I'd expect the Italian to be the sa=
me.


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In Wisconsin, about 20 miles south of Milwaukee.  I would have to guess she's probably a dress size 10 or 12. (It's been awhile since I've made anything for her).
 
Laurie >
> > Where do you live? And what size is your daughter?> Sharon > 
 
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Subject: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net crespines, as opposed
to the crocheted ones?
Thanks,
Joan
 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Joan Mielke wrote:
> Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net crespines, as opposed
> to the crocheted ones?

Like these?

http://www.instawares.com/hairnet-nylon-28in-box.401-dhn500bk.0.7.htm

You might be able to find singles (or small quantities) at a good beauty 
supply, or even restaurant supply shop.


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Dawn wrote:
> Joan Mielke wrote:
>> Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net crespines, as 
>> opposed
>> to the crocheted ones?
>
> Like these?
>
> http://www.instawares.com/hairnet-nylon-28in-box.401-dhn500bk.0.7.htm
>
> You might be able to find singles (or small quantities) at a good 
> beauty supply, or even restaurant supply shop. 

Other than these nylon-type nets, I have never seen netted hairnets sold 
anywhere.  I make my own, and everyone else I know who has one either 
does the same or gets them from someone else who does.

I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made from 
coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a 
surprisingly fast and easy thing to do.

Susan

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If you're looking for snoods (what's the difference between a snood and a
crespine??), check out 

www.pillagedvillage.com

They're woven nylon and will fit just about anyone. Also easy to
embellish, if you wish. Sell at $4 each, or 3 for $10, many colors
available.

Arlys (not affiliated, just a satisfied customer)

On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 09:27:31 -0400 Susan Carroll-Clark
<nicolaa@rogers.com> writes:
> Dawn wrote:
> > Joan Mielke wrote:
> >> Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net crespines, 
> as 
> >> opposed
> >> to the crocheted ones?
> >
> > Like these?
> >
> > 
> http://www.instawares.com/hairnet-nylon-28in-box.401-dhn500bk.0.7.htm
> >
> > You might be able to find singles (or small quantities) at a good 
> > beauty supply, or even restaurant supply shop. 
> 
> Other than these nylon-type nets, I have never seen netted hairnets 
> sold 
> anywhere.  I make my own, and everyone else I know who has one 
> either 
> does the same or gets them from someone else who does.
> 
> I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made 
> from 
> coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a 
> surprisingly fast and easy thing to do.
> 
> Susan
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Will this be taught at Pennsic?





I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made from 
coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a 
surprisingly fast and easy thing to do.

Susan

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Anyone seen this?
http://tinyurl.com/55zagc

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Pillage Village's snoods are rayon. They look to be crocheted and not filet
net work but I can't seem to get a close up of it to be sure.
http://www.pillagedvillage.com/~pillaged/cgi-bin/cart.cgi/HTC_Snoods.html?id
=Gn3va5eA&mv_pc=572

http://tinyurl.com/67yoaz

example of the filet lace
http://tinyurl.com/635kma

Filet net
http://www.filetlace.net/history
http://lace.lacefairy.com/ID/FiletID.html

filet net normally used to make snoods

http://flickr.com/photos/9669678@N03/2496811249/

To my understanding, crespine, crespinette and fret are the names used
pre-1600s for netted cauls (cauls being a broad term for a style of head
covering). The name "snood" is post-1600s netted caul.

De

-----Original Message-----
If you're looking for snoods (what's the difference between a snood and a
crespine??), check out

www.pillagedvillage.com

They're woven nylon and will fit just about anyone. Also easy to
embellish, if you wish. Sell at $4 each, or 3 for $10, many colors
available.

Arlys (not affiliated, just a satisfied customer)


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I wish to announce that I have a new pattern finished!  It is now available for pre-orders, to be shipped 7/14/08.
  
1875 - 1890 Brandy City Bodice Pattern

A fashionable everyday bodice.
The bodice may be fitted or in the Blouse Bodice style.  The photos are of the blouse front version.
The lower front may be full length, opened or closed.  Or it may be draped up, or cut away in several styles.
The back may be pleated, gathered, or shirred.  Two lengths coat style sleeves.
Many historical references and decoration ideas.
Sized 2 - 30, all included.
Price: $22

Front Photo  --  Artwork by Lorina Stephens 

Back Photo  --  Variations Drawing 

To order, please go to http://www.mantua-maker.com/ .  Thank you for looking!

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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> Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net
> crespines, as opposed
> to the crocheted ones?
> Thanks,
> Joan

I don't know of a commercial source either thought I have noted that some basketball nets have the right sort of knot. :)

I'll second the comments on learning to make the nets. It is easy once your learn how and have a good anchor to pull from. I learned from this lady
http://wedcraft.com/netting.html
I took one of her hands on classes and with a bit of practice got the hang of it. I think the handout is good (the first link.) She also lists several other very good sources for learning about netting. 

Cheers,
Mary



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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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There is also the pattern by Lynn McMasters (available on her website) for a
beautiful knotted hair net. I made one in a class she taught in Berkeley, CA
and it is beautiful.
http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/ for her website

Look under patterns for hat, then knotted coif.
LynnD
(Not McMasters)
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 7:05 AM, Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com> wrote:

> > Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net
> > crespines, as opposed
> > to the crocheted ones?
> > Thanks,
> > Joan
>
> I don't know of a commercial source either thought I have noted that some
> basketball nets have the right sort of knot. :)
>
> I'll second the comments on learning to make the nets. It is easy once your
> learn how and have a good anchor to pull from. I learned from this lady
> http://wedcraft.com/netting.html
> I took one of her hands on classes and with a bit of practice got the hang
> of it. I think the handout is good (the first link.) She also lists several
> other very good sources for learning about netting.
>
> Cheers,
> Mary
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need pattern instructions
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Hi folks,

I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests.  I've got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the others.  I've made this vest before, and I can probably figure it out, but since I need them finished by the end of the week, I really don't want to have to.  Does anyone have this pattern and would be willing to scan pages 3 and 4 of the directions and email them to me?  I have the first page, just not the rest.

Thanks,

Melusine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Anne Moeller wrote:
> Will this be taught at Pennsic?
>
>
>
>
>
> I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made from 
> coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a 
> surprisingly fast and easy thing to do.

I've taught it in the past, but not this year (I'm already committed to 
two other classes and my newspaper duties).

Here's my instruction page, if you'd like to learn the basics...
http://members.tripod.com/nicolaa5/articles/hairnet.htm

Susan

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind
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Susan,

I went to your link.  The webpage came up temporarily, then quickly 
forwarded to a page with an eagle flying in the mountains.  I clicked the 
back button and got to your lesson.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@rogers.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind


> Anne Moeller wrote:
>> Will this be taught at Pennsic?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made from 
>> coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a surprisingly 
>> fast and easy thing to do.
>
> I've taught it in the past, but not this year (I'm already committed to 
> two other classes and my newspaper duties).
>
> Here's my instruction page, if you'd like to learn the basics...
> http://members.tripod.com/nicolaa5/articles/hairnet.htm
>
> Susan
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly. 

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but nobody owns anything.



      
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing
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  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.   
    If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Thanks, Frank.

All that Poly is HOT in the summer.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.
    If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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  Mmmm.  Nothing like doing farm work while wearing a plastic tent....

Liadain (Mrs Frank...<G>)

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

Thanks, Frank.

All that Poly is HOT in the summer.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.
    If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> All that Poly is HOT in the summer.
> 
> Monica
> 

Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 13:37:19 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing
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Isn't that considered abuse? 
Monica
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


> All that Poly is HOT in the summer.
> 
> Monica
> 

Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida
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From: "Shane Sheridan Chabot" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)
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Where I grew up in the Canadian prairies there are numerous Hutterite 
communities that have a similar modest dress code. You can often tell which 
colony they came from by the colors they wear. Predominantly blues, navy and 
black were the most common in my area, and others have a bit more variety in 
color especially for their youth. Boys wear dark slacks, white or light 
colored (blue or grey) shirts and suspenders. Old fashioned Hats in felt or 
straw also very common. Girls are either in a full skirted lower calf or 
ankle length dress or a full skirt and very modest blouse. All of the ladies 
wore a black or navy kerchief that always had white polkadots on their head 
and often aprons - I think mostly for the married women. Little girls wore 
bonnets. Very germanic in feel, in fact most of them still speak German. As 
a kid I always got a kick out of the fact most of the girls wore white 
running shoes - very anachronistic. :0)

The Mennonites were much more open to modern clothing, but many of the women 
adopt a simple modest style - jumper style dresses and blouses, long skirts, 
very specific hairstyles and sometimes a simple head cover/bonnet.

Sheridan P


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From: "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)
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The Amish, I do believe, wear poly doubleknit almost exclusively...certainly
easy to ascertain if you hang out in Lancaster Co. PA long enough!  It is
easy to care for.  
There is nothing quite as fragrant as an Amish adolescent boy in a violet
poly shirt.
Candace Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)


Where I grew up in the Canadian prairies there are numerous Hutterite 
communities that have a similar modest dress code. You can often tell which 
colony they came from by the colors they wear. Predominantly blues, navy and

black were the most common in my area, and others have a bit more variety in

color especially for their youth. Boys wear dark slacks, white or light 
colored (blue or grey) shirts and suspenders. Old fashioned Hats in felt or 
straw also very common. Girls are either in a full skirted lower calf or 
ankle length dress or a full skirt and very modest blouse. All of the ladies

wore a black or navy kerchief that always had white polkadots on their head 
and often aprons - I think mostly for the married women. Little girls wore 
bonnets. Very germanic in feel, in fact most of them still speak German. As 
a kid I always got a kick out of the fact most of the girls wore white 
running shoes - very anachronistic. :0)

The Mennonites were much more open to modern clothing, but many of the women

adopt a simple modest style - jumper style dresses and blouses, long skirts,

very specific hairstyles and sometimes a simple head cover/bonnet.

Sheridan P


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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 13:37:18 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Keeps a girl's figure.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Mmmm.  Nothing like doing farm work while wearing a plastic tent....

Liadain (Mrs Frank...<G>)

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

Thanks, Frank.

All that Poly is HOT in the summer.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.
    If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 14:48:37 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)
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The biggest problem in my experience with poly is the fact it holds body
oder so well. This might be good to help for police dogs, but not for people
who wear it.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Candace Perry
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:09 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)


The Amish, I do believe, wear poly doubleknit almost exclusively...certainly
easy to ascertain if you hang out in Lancaster Co. PA long enough!  It is
easy to care for.
There is nothing quite as fragrant as an Amish adolescent boy in a violet
poly shirt.
Candace Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)


Where I grew up in the Canadian prairies there are numerous Hutterite
communities that have a similar modest dress code. You can often tell which
colony they came from by the colors they wear. Predominantly blues, navy and

black were the most common in my area, and others have a bit more variety in

color especially for their youth. Boys wear dark slacks, white or light
colored (blue or grey) shirts and suspenders. Old fashioned Hats in felt or
straw also very common. Girls are either in a full skirted lower calf or
ankle length dress or a full skirt and very modest blouse. All of the ladies

wore a black or navy kerchief that always had white polkadots on their head
and often aprons - I think mostly for the married women. Little girls wore
bonnets. Very germanic in feel, in fact most of them still speak German. As
a kid I always got a kick out of the fact most of the girls wore white
running shoes - very anachronistic. :0)

The Mennonites were much more open to modern clothing, but many of the women

adopt a simple modest style - jumper style dresses and blouses, long skirts,

very specific hairstyles and sometimes a simple head cover/bonnet.

Sheridan P


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	<NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIAENCHAAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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The polyester probably saves on ironing, but a heavy cotton twill or at
least a cotton poly blend would be cooler. And polyester is still heck
to get stains out of, unless it is stain resistant, but then it won't
breathe. Cut of the cloth, if boxy, would naturally stand away from the
body and be cooler in summer and warmer in winter(know this personally),
as well. Skirt hems can be weighted with lead or wood to preserve
modestly in windy conditions.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 11:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the
poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the
body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do
use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The
FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the
church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered,
but
nobody owns anything.




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Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida

   Who cares, it's only wimmen......
Oooo.  Did I "say" that with my outside voice?   ;-P

  Seriously, comfort/safety are not high on the list.

Liadain
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WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 6:10 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


 

Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida

   Who cares, it's only wimmen......
Oooo.  Did I "say" that with my outside voice?   ;-P

  Seriously, comfort/safety are not high on the list.

Liadain
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Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

Kimiko


--- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
> Monica



      
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  Heh.  You gonna open a BIG old can of fish with THAT one. <G>

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:24 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica


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On Jul 8, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
> --- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>> WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
>> Monica
>
> Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

It's one that's probably way outside the scope of this list, at least  
as it's phrased. Discussing strictures, sumptuary laws and appropriate  
dress for a period may be appropriate (and necessary to understand how  
to recreate historical costume properly) and it may be possible to  
have a dispassionate discussion about the cultural circumstances in  
which historical costume developed...

...but gross generalization is always inappropriate.

andy
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Yes-- I just LOVE to stir the pot. Ask anyone. :-)


Baroness Catriona MacDuff OL, OP yadayada
East Kingdom 


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:01 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Heh.  You gonna open a BIG old can of fish with THAT one. <G>

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:24 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica


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Yup. :-)

Monica 
Professior of Fashion History
Art Institute of NYC

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing



On Jul 8, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
> --- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>> WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
>> Monica
>
> Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

It's one that's probably way outside the scope of this list, at least  
as it's phrased. Discussing strictures, sumptuary laws and appropriate  
dress for a period may be appropriate (and necessary to understand how  
to recreate historical costume properly) and it may be possible to  
have a dispassionate discussion about the cultural circumstances in  
which historical costume developed...

...but gross generalization is always inappropriate.

andy
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Being funny-- really.

Monica 
Priofessor of Fashion History
Art Institute of New York City

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

Kimiko


--- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
> Monica



      
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Hello all,

Has anyone here read the book "The Mercery Of London: Trade, Goods And People, 1130-1578" by Anne F. Sutton?

I just saw the book in a different book search, and realized I hadn't seen the title before, and before I plunk down the $160, or try to ILL it, I was wondering if it was worthy?

Anyone?

Kimiko





      
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I was hoping that was the case, but in email, sometimes I misread things.

Kimiko


--- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> Being funny-- really.
> 
> Monica 
> Priofessor of Fashion History
> Art Institute of New York City



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book: The Mercery Of London
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> Has anyone here read the book "The Mercery Of London: Trade, Goods And People, 1130-1578" by Anne F. Sutton?

I reviewed it for volume 3 of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. It's a large, 
detailed history of the people of London who made and sold linen and silk 
goods and small dress accessories. If you're looking for detail on the actual 
costume items, you'll have to dig to find the useful nuggets of information, 
as the book focuses primarily on the political, economic, and legal roles of 
the Mercer's Guild, and spends a lot of time discussing things like the 
personal histories of influential members and arguments over trade territories.

If you want to read my review and don't have easy access to it, contact me 
directly.

--Robin
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"Priofessor"?

Yup, that's a good one!  *Very* funny!

(Even better than that Baroness whatchamacallit business.)

;-)

-- Constance


monica spence wrote:
> Being funny-- really.
>
> Monica 
> Priofessor of Fashion History
> Art Institute of New York City
>
>   

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing
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Candace wrote:

>The Amish, I do believe, wear poly doubleknit almost exclusively...

Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have expected them to stick to natural fibres.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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And why is it that we let them?

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 5:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 6:10 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing




Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida

   Who cares, it's only wimmen......
Oooo.  Did I "say" that with my outside voice?   ;-P

  Seriously, comfort/safety are not high on the list.

Liadain
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:02:14 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Constance--

Perhaps I am misreading your post. I hope so. I have no interest in starting
an email flame war.
However, sometimes I must bow to the eloquence of others.

FWIW-I would recommend you try to type while construction is going on above
your head and then count your typos. (We are in the midst of kitchen
construction,
and being online is one of the few escapes from the mess. My kitchen is
filled with
large men doing plumbing and tilework as I write this.)

BTW-- the Baroness business-- while maybe amusing to you, was in response to
the
response from a gentleman who answered to my question on FLDS, which I had
never heard of.
His SCA title was at the end of his post, and I responded in kind to let him
know we are both in the SCA. Sorry if you thought it was funny or if you
took offense.

People here have many other talents and interests that play into the area of
historical clothing.

Monica
Professor and SCA Baroness


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Constance Britten
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 1:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


"Priofessor"?

Yup, that's a good one!  *Very* funny!

(Even better than that Baroness whatchamacallit business.)

;-)

-- Constance


monica spence wrote:
> Being funny-- really.
>
> Monica
> Priofessor of Fashion History
> Art Institute of New York City
>
>

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From: "Stacey Dunleavy" <anastasi55@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] FLDS vs. Amish
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I was under the impression that the Pennsylvania Amish wear only
natural fibers.  At least the ones selling their cheeses and baked
goods in NYC were wearing cotton twills pants, skirts, and bibs with
cotton broadcloth shirts.
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  I imagine this varies, like color choices, from group to group - some
groups (I know the organizational word, but darned if I can think of it!)
are much more strict than others.

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Dunleavy
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 10:20 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] FLDS vs. Amish

I was under the impression that the Pennsylvania Amish wear only
natural fibers.  At least the ones selling their cheeses and baked
goods in NYC were wearing cotton twills pants, skirts, and bibs with
cotton broadcloth shirts.
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The Amish absolutely do not limit themselves to natural fibers, and from my
observation, are often wearing poly or cotton/poly blends. And they do make
use of technology...cell phones even from what I've been told. It's just
what they can have in the home vs what they can have in the barn to run
their businesses.  There are differences.
And also -- they are business savvy.   If you ever get a chance to visit
Lancaster County -- and even the stores the Amish frequent -- you will see
what I mean.
Candace Perry
A PA Dutch chick

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 2:30 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS vs. Amish

  I imagine this varies, like color choices, from group to group - some
groups (I know the organizational word, but darned if I can think of it!)
are much more strict than others.

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Dunleavy
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 10:20 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] FLDS vs. Amish

I was under the impression that the Pennsylvania Amish wear only
natural fibers.  At least the ones selling their cheeses and baked
goods in NYC were wearing cotton twills pants, skirts, and bibs with
cotton broadcloth shirts.
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Sects?


>  (I know the organizational word, but darned if I can think of it!)
> are much more strict than others.

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Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>   

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in 
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do 
not adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more 
comfortable or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or 
horse drawn buggies for transportation over the automobile. However they 
will use things like refrigerators in cases of medical need, where 
medicine must be stored. There may be a telephone on a pole at an 
inconvenient distance from the house, for emergency use. Electricity is 
not used because it creates a connection to the outside world, and a 
dependence on something outside their church and community. For the most 
part technology and modern equipment is not avoided simply because it is 
modern, but because the community places more value on simplicity and 
self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the comforts of the 
modern world, and they believe that ownership of material goods like 
cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and causes 
vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it fills 
a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that 
ready-to-wear is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and 
that good natural cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come 
by.  I suspect that a lot of poly and poly blends get used because of 
the ready availability, the slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and 
modesty of the fabric itself. They're not hung up on "natural" or 
"organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves to cover the body. To make a 
special effort to only import natural cotton or linen for clothing would 
probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or self-centered activity 
and frowned upon. 

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know 
from experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there, 
too. I had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from 
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests 
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test 
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis) 
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of 
choice about what they sew with either.



Dawn

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Aren't there House Amish and Church Amish with different approaches to
technology?

If you found garments labeled 100% cotton, that were not, you can call  the
Federal Trade commission. The  miislabeling might be intentional, having to
do with quotas of cotton garments brought into the States. Me-- I would can
make a stink bacause the store is selling fradulently labeled goods to
consumers. The manufacturer in China is pulling a fast one in order to get
beat the quota system.

Who knows, you might save a job here in the US. But let me not get on that
soapbox.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 3:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing


Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have
expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do
not adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more
comfortable or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or
horse drawn buggies for transportation over the automobile. However they
will use things like refrigerators in cases of medical need, where
medicine must be stored. There may be a telephone on a pole at an
inconvenient distance from the house, for emergency use. Electricity is
not used because it creates a connection to the outside world, and a
dependence on something outside their church and community. For the most
part technology and modern equipment is not avoided simply because it is
modern, but because the community places more value on simplicity and
self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the comforts of the
modern world, and they believe that ownership of material goods like
cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and causes
vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it fills
a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that
ready-to-wear is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and
that good natural cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come
by.  I suspect that a lot of poly and poly blends get used because of
the ready availability, the slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and
modesty of the fabric itself. They're not hung up on "natural" or
"organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves to cover the body. To make a
special effort to only import natural cotton or linen for clothing would
probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or self-centered activity
and frowned upon.

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know
from experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there,
too. I had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis)
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of
choice about what they sew with either.



Dawn

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 15:53:53 -0400
Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing
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>From my understanding each group leader (meeting?) decides when and which modern items conflict with community.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 3:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

Aren't there House Amish and Church Amish with different approaches to
technology?

If you found garments labeled 100% cotton, that were not, you can call  the
Federal Trade commission. The  miislabeling might be intentional, having to
do with quotas of cotton garments brought into the States. Me-- I would can
make a stink bacause the store is selling fradulently labeled goods to
consumers. The manufacturer in China is pulling a fast one in order to get
beat the quota system.

Who knows, you might save a job here in the US. But let me not get on that
soapbox.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 3:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing


Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have
expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do
not adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more
comfortable or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or
horse drawn buggies for transportation over the automobile. However they
will use things like refrigerators in cases of medical need, where
medicine must be stored. There may be a telephone on a pole at an
inconvenient distance from the house, for emergency use. Electricity is
not used because it creates a connection to the outside world, and a
dependence on something outside their church and community. For the most
part technology and modern equipment is not avoided simply because it is
modern, but because the community places more value on simplicity and
self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the comforts of the
modern world, and they believe that ownership of material goods like
cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and causes
vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it fills
a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that
ready-to-wear is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and
that good natural cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come
by.  I suspect that a lot of poly and poly blends get used because of
the ready availability, the slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and
modesty of the fabric itself. They're not hung up on "natural" or
"organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves to cover the body. To make a
special effort to only import natural cotton or linen for clothing would
probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or self-centered activity
and frowned upon.

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know
from experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there,
too. I had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis)
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of
choice about what they sew with either.



Dawn

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So could the Amish conceivably use solar, since it doesn't connect to
anywhere? Then they could use electric sewing machines (see, I got costume
content in there--:-)  )
Sharon C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 12:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have
expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>   

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do not
adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more comfortable
or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or horse drawn buggies
for transportation over the automobile. However they will use things like
refrigerators in cases of medical need, where medicine must be stored. There
may be a telephone on a pole at an inconvenient distance from the house, for
emergency use. Electricity is not used because it creates a connection to
the outside world, and a dependence on something outside their church and
community. For the most part technology and modern equipment is not avoided
simply because it is modern, but because the community places more value on
simplicity and self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the
comforts of the modern world, and they believe that ownership of material
goods like cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and
causes vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it
fills a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that ready-to-wear
is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and that good natural
cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come by.  I suspect that a
lot of poly and poly blends get used because of the ready availability, the
slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and modesty of the fabric itself.
They're not hung up on "natural" or "organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves
to cover the body. To make a special effort to only import natural cotton or
linen for clothing would probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or
self-centered activity and frowned upon. 

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know from
experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there, too. I
had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis)
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of choice
about what they sew with either.



Dawn

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From: "Candace Perry" <candace@schwenkfelder.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing
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There are many different groups of Amish, as someone pointed out, and they
all have different dress traditions.  The dress of the women I believe is
derived from traditional rural PA German dress -- the shortgown
specifically.  The little peplum on these garments is interpreted, for
example, as a little tab on the back of the garment, in some cases, but all
the groups vary.  The shortgown was held together with straight pins, and I
think it is done that way still. And don't forget there are conservative
Mennonites and Brethren groups that are not Amish, but are often confused
with them -- all part of the sectarian Pennsylvania German sphere.
I think that gas generators are permitted with some at least, and therefore
they can run certain appliances in their homes.  They are literally "off the
grid."
Candace Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 4:54 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

So could the Amish conceivably use solar, since it doesn't connect to
anywhere? Then they could use electric sewing machines (see, I got costume
content in there--:-)  )
Sharon C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 12:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have
expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>   

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do not
adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more comfortable
or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or horse drawn buggies
for transportation over the automobile. However they will use things like
refrigerators in cases of medical need, where medicine must be stored. There
may be a telephone on a pole at an inconvenient distance from the house, for
emergency use. Electricity is not used because it creates a connection to
the outside world, and a dependence on something outside their church and
community. For the most part technology and modern equipment is not avoided
simply because it is modern, but because the community places more value on
simplicity and self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the
comforts of the modern world, and they believe that ownership of material
goods like cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and
causes vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it
fills a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that ready-to-wear
is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and that good natural
cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come by.  I suspect that a
lot of poly and poly blends get used because of the ready availability, the
slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and modesty of the fabric itself.
They're not hung up on "natural" or "organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves
to cover the body. To make a special effort to only import natural cotton or
linen for clothing would probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or
self-centered activity and frowned upon. 

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know from
experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there, too. I
had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis)
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of choice
about what they sew with either.



Dawn

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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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My favorite image is of a young Amish  person zooming down the road on
rollerblades... There's a contrast!

There's apparently a term for the youthful "let them try the world"
period teens are allowed to have during which usual rules don't apply as
much, and it's "Rumspringes" which is just a lovely word. Literally,
means jumping or springing around. 

OK, back to textiles....

Astrida
 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amish sewing...
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At 12:00 PM -0600 7/10/08, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>So could the Amish conceivably use solar, since it doesn't connect to
>anywhere? Then they could use electric sewing machines (see, I got costume
>content in there--:-)  )
>Sharon C.

They use treadles--or at least have one out for display (yeah, well 
like the rest of us, they are not perfect!) even if they may sew on a 
battery powered more modern machine at home--at work if the Bishop 
allows it, most anything goes--computers, embroidery machines.
I covet my neighbors >treadle< serger <G> I've sewn on it and it is a 
dream. It's from the 70's I think.
The Amish are just people, poly is longer lasting, take wear better 
and is cheeeper. Pridefulness and standing out seems to be one of the 
things of modern life they avoid, but they are very practical about 
sewing and clothing themselves (see more costume content!)
It is fun to do historical textile craft demos and have the Amish 
come and gawk at the English <G> I got asked why I didn't buy my yarn 
at Walmart...<VVBEG>
Best costuming complement I ever got was one old Amish gentleman (who 
bought and sold antiques) asking if DH's shirt was an antique--he 
thought from just looking at it that it was a twin to one he just 
sold <G>
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut. What i need is the year of the publikation. 
Thankyou.......

Bjarne
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"A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in Costume, London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21."

Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile back...can't remember who...
http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html

Sg

> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
> Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> 
> Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut. What i need is the year of the publikation. 
> Thankyou.......
> 
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Speaking of Janet Arnold--
Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
friends, that is).
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society



"A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in Costume,
London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21."

Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile back...can't
remember who...
http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html

Sg

> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
> Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
>
> Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet
Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in
1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut.
What i need is the year of the publikation.
> Thankyou.......
>
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Me, me, me!
Emma

Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> Speaking of Janet Arnold--
> Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
> friends, that is).
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:04 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
>
>
>
> "A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in Costume,
> London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21."
>
> Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile back...can't
> remember who...
> http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html
>
> Sg
>
>> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
>> Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
>>
>> Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet
> Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in
> 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut.
> What i need is the year of the publikation.
>> Thankyou.......
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



_______________________________________________
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Most gennerous of you Sg, Thankyou soo much!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society


>
> "A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in Costume, 
> London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21."
>
> Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile 
> back...can't remember who...
> http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html
>
> Sg
>
>> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
>> Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
>>
>> Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet 
>> Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena 
>> in 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern 
>> cut. What i need is the year of the publikation.
>> Thankyou.......
>>
>> Bjarne
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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I am as well...

Astrida

 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of monica spence
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:14 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> 
> Speaking of Janet Arnold--
> Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? 
> (Besides me and 3 friends, that is).
> Monica
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:04 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> 
> 
> 
> "A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" 
> in Costume, London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21."
> 
> Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source 
> awhile back...can't remember who...
> http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html
> 
> Sg
> 
> > From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
> > Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> >
> > Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet
> Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of 
> Sophia Magdalena in 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of 
> the article with the pattern cut.
> What i need is the year of the publikation.
> > Thankyou.......
> >
> > Bjarne
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Need a reference from Costume journal
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Does anyone here have on hand a copy of Costume issue 9 (1975)? I need to 
verify a citation from it, and my own collection starts with issue 10.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence colloquium
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I'll be there...

Allison T.

On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 17:14:21 -0400
> From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
> Speaking of Janet Arnold--
> Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
> friends, that is).
> Monica
>
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I'll be there...

Allison T.

On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 17:14:21 -0400
> From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIMEEKHBAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Speaking of Janet Arnold--
> Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
> friends, that is).
> Monica
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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And I.

Melanie Schuessler


On Jul 11, 2008, at 3:03 PM, A. Thurman wrote:

> I'll be there...
>
> Allison T.
>
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm
I got this link from this group.=A0 It intrigued me, so I made the sarafin =
using the dimensions from the article, and using=A0a light-weight linen.=A0=
 When I tried it on it hung all wrong.=A0 The drawing has a drape to it tha=
t the linen just doesn't do.=A0 More than that, the way they show it the si=
lk bands across the front don't show very well.=A0 I found that if I folded=
 the front into two large pleats, one under each brooch, the bands showed n=
icely, and it hung very well.
I went back to the article and found a link to the original Russian article=
.=A0 I copied it and pasted it to Microsoft Word and then used the translat=
ion function in Word to do a literal translation.=A0 Picked up a little mor=
e info.... but the eye-opening thing was the drawing... there is a second d=
rawing that the English article leaves out!=A0 This drawing shows the front=
 folded with a front placket and a large pleat under each brooch!=A0 The En=
glish article has a footnote referencing this drawing with a link to it... =
http://pskovarheolog.ru/imgs/docs/68-156.jpg=A0, and noting that the way th=
e sarafin was drawn would be difficult to wear because the straps would fal=
l down, but it states that it is an apron added to the front of the sarafin=
 to hold it together!=A0 I can see why they think this, but after my experi=
ment I am convinced that it is an alternate folding (I think the correct on=
e!) of the material.=A0 =

Thought you'd find this interesting!=A0 Kathy
PS I've mostly lurked on this group, so it's fun to actually have something=
 to share!


      =

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 13:26:02 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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On Saturday 12 July 2008 1:08:18 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> I got this link from this group.=A0 It intrigued me, so I made the sarafin
> using the dimensions from the article, and using=A0a light-weight linen.=
=A0
> When I tried it on it hung all wrong.=A0 The drawing has a drape to it th=
at
> the linen just doesn't do.=A0 More than that, the way they show it the si=
lk
> bands across the front don't show very well.

I've been planning to try the same thing, just haven't got around to it yet=
.  =

I'm inclined to agree with you that the bands wouldn't show well if the apr=
on =

dress were made that way.


> I found that if I folded the =

> front into two large pleats, one under each brooch, the bands showed
> nicely, and it hung very well.

Interesting.  How do you mean?  Do you mean that you pin through the pleats=
 as =

well as through the loops?  If not, how do you get the pleats to stay put?



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 12 14:37:30 2008
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From: Constance Britten <costumer@britten.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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Thanks for posting!

I read in note 7 of the Beatson article that the "type of weave and 
patterning (if any) of the silks are not mentioned."

However, seeing as that article omitted the image describing the pleats, 
I'm wondering if, when you did your translation work (very kewl, BTW), 
you happened to find any more info about the silk?

-- Constance


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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
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Right now I'm resorting to basting because I don't own large turtle brooche=
s... but a friend does so that will be the next thing... along with photos.=
 Turtle brooches are so large and heavy that I'm thinking they will hold th=
e folds down.=A0 If not, there is still basting.=A0 I've been thinking too.=
.. with the pleats the sarafin will accomodate a pregnant belly... and if t=
he pleats can be pulled out at will, they would accomodate breast-feeding a=
s well.=A0 Just a thought.
Another really cool thing in the Russian article.... the straps end in loop=
s... so the big turtle brooch pins don't have to go through the fabric!
Gytha



----- Original Message ----
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:26:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

On Saturday 12 July 2008 1:08:18 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> I got this link from this group.=A0 It intrigued me, so I made the sarafin
> using the dimensions from the article, and using=A0a light-weight linen.=
=A0
> When I tried it on it hung all wrong.=A0 The drawing has a drape to it th=
at
> the linen just doesn't do.=A0 More than that, the way they show it the si=
lk
> bands across the front don't show very well.

I've been planning to try the same thing, just haven't got around to it yet=
.=A0 =

I'm inclined to agree with you that the bands wouldn't show well if the apr=
on =

dress were made that way.


> I found that if I folded the =

> front into two large pleats, one under each brooch, the bands showed
> nicely, and it hung very well.

Interesting.=A0 How do you mean?=A0 Do you mean that you pin through the pl=
eats as =

well as through the loops?=A0 If not, how do you get the pleats to stay put?



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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No, some words don't seem to translate, like their word for fibula, which i=
s similar, but different, but there was no particular untranslated word tha=
t would appear to describe the weave. I used to pieces of Thai silk that I =
had... simple tabby, and a weft-faced patterned silk for the patterned pane=
l.=A0 I'll send you a copy of the translation... maybe another set of eyes =
can tell more!=A0 Gytha



----- Original Message ----
From: Constance Britten <costumer@britten.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:36:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

Thanks for posting!

I read in note 7 of the Beatson article that the "type of weave and =

patterning (if any) of the silks are not mentioned."

However, seeing as that article omitted the image describing the pleats, =

I'm wondering if, when you did your translation work (very kewl, BTW), =

you happened to find any more info about the silk?

-- Constance


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Drea Leed is going, along with several people in Oregon.
I wish I could go ;o( but I found out about this too late for me to actually
plan for it.
I will be in England during that time! So I will be picking up the newest
book while there,
 it comes out November 3rd or 4th I think?

Cilean
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On Saturday 12 July 2008 2:36:49 pm Constance Britten wrote:
> Thanks for posting!
>
> I read in note 7 of the Beatson article that the "type of weave and
> patterning (if any) of the silks are not mentioned."

However, I found an abstract of the NESAT X papers on the web--which included 
the paper by the team working on the Pskov find.  That abstract gives more 
information than the web writeup--and it says that some of the silk trim on 
the apron dress *is* indeed patterned:

"The silken trimming of the upper part of the apron consissted of several 
details cut from different kinds of silk.  These were all cloths of Byzantine 
type.  On silken cloth no. 1, a woven pattern has been recognized  with a 
scene of the Sassanian prince Bahram Gur hunting.  In Europe, cloths with 
similar designs are known by finds from Milan, Cologne, and Prague.  Within 
the territory of Russia they have been found at tmountain burial grounds of 
the northern Caucasus.  All of them are dated, at the latest, to the 9th 
century being imitations of the earlier Sassanian textiles."

To find the abstract, go here:

http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/nesat/abstracts/

and click on the link "Abstracts PDF."  The PDF is a long document because it 
includes an abstract for all the NESAT X papers.  The abstract on the Pskov 
paper can be found on the last two pages of that document.  





-- 

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Saturday 12 July 2008 3:23:51 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Right now I'm resorting to basting because I don't own large turtle
> brooches... but a friend does so that will be the next thing... along with
> photos. Turtle brooches are so large and heavy that I'm thinking they will
> hold the folds down.

 I have tried a similar "pleat" trick with an apron dress I've made that's not 
based on the Pskov find, but is essentially still a large tube on straps. My 
experience is that such a pleat *won't* stay unless it's pinned or 
basted--the weight of the brooches isn't enough to hold the pleats when one 
moves.   That's why I was curious to see what you've done. 

Basting should certainly work... but if it was the way the dress was worn, 
you'd expect there to be holes, like the holes the researchers found that 
they believe indicate where the loops originally were (the loops in the find 
were actually found in the brooches, and not on the dress).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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On Saturday 12 July 2008 3:37:05 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> No, some words don't seem to translate, like their word for fibula, which
> is similar, but different, but there was no particular untranslated word
> that would appear to describe the weave. I used to pieces of Thai silk th=
at
> I had... simple tabby, and a weft-faced patterned silk for the patterned
> panel.=A0 I'll send you a copy of the translation... maybe another set of
> eyes can tell more!

By the way, there's another literal translation of the Russian write up on =
the =

Pskov Archaeological Centre's website done by Lisa Kies--you can compare it =

to what you have.  It appears to be a fairly literal translation.

http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/PskovTranslation.html



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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Very interesting article!  I wonder, though,  if the apron/dress may have
been made of wool instead of linen.  I reread the article, and it doesn't
actually say what the dress itself was made of.  It was stitched with linen,
which makes sense, and the silk was backed on linen, which also makes sense.
However, the original drape would work if the dress were made of a
relatively heavy wool.  Sort of like a rectangular cloak on backwards. 

Joan


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On Saturday 12 July 2008 5:00:06 pm Joan Mielke wrote:
> Very interesting article!  I wonder, though,  if the apron/dress may have
> been made of wool instead of linen.  I reread the article, and it doesn't
> actually say what the dress itself was made of.  It was stitched with
> linen, which makes sense, and the silk was backed on linen, which also
> makes sense. However, the original drape would work if the dress were made
> of a relatively heavy wool.  Sort of like a rectangular cloak on backwards.

Maybe not, but the abstract I sent around the URL for does.  It's very clear 
that both garments are linen, trimmed with silk.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Actually, that's a much better translation!=A0 Thank you!=A0 It's not liter=
al, it makes much more sense...=A0 Kathy



----- Original Message ----
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 1:22:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

On Saturday 12 July 2008 3:37:05 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> No, some words don't seem to translate, like their word for fibula, which
> is similar, but different, but there was no particular untranslated word
> that would appear to describe the weave. I used to pieces of Thai silk th=
at
> I had... simple tabby, and a weft-faced patterned silk for the patterned
> panel.=A0 I'll send you a copy of the translation... maybe another set of
> eyes can tell more!

By the way, there's another literal translation of the Russian write up on =
the =

Pskov Archaeological Centre's website done by Lisa Kies--you can compare it =

to what you have.=A0 It appears to be a fairly literal translation.

http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/PskovTranslation.html



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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      =

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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, I've wondered the same thing.=A0 With nothing about needle holes I ha=
te to assume it was basted.=A0 I'll be wearing this to events this summer, =
so I'll be seeing how it works.=A0 Will be looking for the experience of ot=
hers too.=A0 Kathy



----- Original Message ----
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 1:19:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

On Saturday 12 July 2008 3:23:51 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Right now I'm resorting to basting because I don't own large turtle
> brooches... but a friend does so that will be the next thing... along with
> photos. Turtle brooches are so large and heavy that I'm thinking they will
> hold the folds down.

I have tried a similar "pleat" trick with an apron dress I've made that's n=
ot =

based on the Pskov find, but is essentially still a large tube on straps. M=
y =

experience is that such a pleat *won't* stay unless it's pinned or =

basted--the weight of the brooches isn't enough to hold the pleats when one =

moves.=A0 That's why I was curious to see what you've done. =


Basting should certainly work... but if it was the way the dress was worn, =

you'd expect there to be holes, like the holes the researchers found that =

they believe indicate where the loops originally were (the loops in the fin=
d =

were actually found in the brooches, and not on the dress).

-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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      =

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Thanks for the link!=A0 I know I read somewhere about the middle panel bein=
g patterned... and that it was 100 years older than the rest of the garment=
.=A0 The abstracts are great and I think I need to buy it!=A0=A0 Kathy



----- Original Message ----
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 1:15:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

On Saturday 12 July 2008 2:36:49 pm Constance Britten wrote:
> Thanks for posting!
>
> I read in note 7 of the Beatson article that the "type of weave and
> patterning (if any) of the silks are not mentioned."

However, I found an abstract of the NESAT X papers on the web--which includ=
ed =

the paper by the team working on the Pskov find.=A0 That abstract gives mor=
e =

information than the web writeup--and it says that some of the silk trim on =

the apron dress *is* indeed patterned:

"The silken trimming of the upper part of the apron consissted of several =

details cut from different kinds of silk.=A0 These were all cloths of Byzan=
tine =

type.=A0 On silken cloth no. 1, a woven pattern has been recognized=A0 with=
 a =

scene of the Sassanian prince Bahram Gur hunting.=A0 In Europe, cloths with =

similar designs are known by finds from Milan, Cologne, and Prague.=A0 With=
in =

the territory of Russia they have been found at tmountain burial grounds of =

the northern Caucasus.=A0 All of them are dated, at the latest, to the 9th =

century being imitations of the earlier Sassanian textiles."

To find the abstract, go here:

http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/nesat/abstracts/

and click on the link "Abstracts PDF."=A0 The PDF is a long document becaus=
e it =

includes an abstract for all the NESAT X papers.=A0 The abstract on the Psk=
ov =

paper can be found on the last two pages of that document.=A0 =






-- =


Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Saturday 12 July 2008 8:09:19 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Actually, that's a much better translation!=A0 Thank you!=A0 It's not lit=
eral,
> it makes much more sense...=A0 Kathy
>

Glad to be of service.  I was only reporting my impression of the feel of t=
he =

translation.  Since I don' t know Russian myself, I can't know how "literal=
" =

it is or is not.  :-)


-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Saturday 12 July 2008 8:13:57 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Thanks for the link!=A0 I know I read somewhere about the middle panel be=
ing
> patterned... and that it was 100 years older than the rest of the garment=
.=A0
> The abstracts are great and I think I need to buy it!=A0=A0 Kathy

The paper will be in NESAT X, but the conference was only held this May, so =

it's hard to say how long it will be before the book with the proceeding =

papers is finally published.  (I want a copy too!)

-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 22:24:51 +0100
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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In the second picture, is that another brooch in the center front, do 
you think?  If the fabric was pinned together there, it would be tight 
around the chest so the tortoise brooches  might hold the pleats more 
easily? 

Interestingly, that formation is almost exactly like I was shown to make 
a hangarock (18 years ago for a friend's wedding, so I don't know where 
the research came from), except backwards.  It was a tube with a big box 
pleat in the centre back, sewn down along the top edge.  I had such a 
small bust, and such a long stride, that the pleat went all the way 
round to under my arms!  But certainly putting it in front would allow 
for pregnancy.

Jean

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> On Saturday 12 July 2008 3:23:51 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
>   
>> Right now I'm resorting to basting because I don't own large turtle
>> brooches... but a friend does so that will be the next thing... along with
>> photos. Turtle brooches are so large and heavy that I'm thinking they will
>> hold the folds down.
>>     
>
>  I have tried a similar "pleat" trick with an apron dress I've made that's not 
> based on the Pskov find, but is essentially still a large tube on straps. My 
> experience is that such a pleat *won't* stay unless it's pinned or 
> basted--the weight of the brooches isn't enough to hold the pleats when one 
> moves.   That's why I was curious to see what you've done. 
>
> Basting should certainly work... but if it was the way the dress was worn, 
> you'd expect there to be holes, like the holes the researchers found that 
> they believe indicate where the loops originally were (the loops in the find 
> were actually found in the brooches, and not on the dress).
>
>   
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On Sunday 13 July 2008 5:24:51 pm Anne wrote:
> In the second picture, is that another brooch in the center front, do
> you think?  If the fabric was pinned together there, it would be tight
> around the chest so the tortoise brooches  might hold the pleats more
> easily?
>
> Interestingly, that formation is almost exactly like I was shown to make
> a hangarock (18 years ago for a friend's wedding, so I don't know where
> the research came from), except backwards.  It was a tube with a big box
> pleat in the centre back, sewn down along the top edge.  I had such a
> small bust, and such a long stride, that the pleat went all the way
> round to under my arms!  But certainly putting it in front would allow
> for pregnancy.

Yes, the inset picture does seem to show a third brooch in the center.  So far 
as I know, no such brooch was found in the grave, but we don't have full data 
on the find.  It does show a narrow apron worn in front and positioned 
between the tortoise brooches, which I'm skeptical about, since that approach 
would also hide the silk trim on the apron dress.

There are any number of ways in which a sewn pleat/s could be incorporated 
into an apron dress.  The only one that I know has been documented by a find 
is this one, which was found in Denmark and is the subject of a 
reconstruction model in the Danish National Museum.  There's a photo of the 
reconstruction about 2/3 of the way down on this page on the right:

http://www.vikingsofbjornstad.gbtllc.com/MuseumCopenhagen.htm




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
Thank you, Sharon C.
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Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


> Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
> please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
> Thank you, Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 02:56:21 2008
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005101c8e646$4b398860$060ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 02:55:59 -0400
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Sharon,

I see your email to h-costume.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


> Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
> please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
> Thank you, Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 05:01:10 2008
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005101c8e646$4b398860$060ba8c0@bobfamilyroom>
	<00b901c8e647$bb759190$6701a8c0@momlaptop>
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Status: RO

Thanks, I'm not sure what I did, but I'm receiving again. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 11:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


> Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
> please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
> Thank you, Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 05:36:22 2008
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Status: RO

It may have been just a slow day- I only got 2 msj for all of Sunday and
none on Monday.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 4:01 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume

Thanks, I'm not sure what I did, but I'm receiving again. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 11:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


> Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
> please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
> Thank you, Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 10:15:23 2008
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:13:59 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> On Sunday 13 July 2008 5:24:51 pm Anne wrote:
>   
>> In the second picture, is that another brooch in the center front, do
>> you think?  If the fabric was pinned together there, it would be tight
>> around the chest so the tortoise brooches  might hold the pleats more
>> easily?
>>
>> Interestingly, that formation is almost exactly like I was shown to make
>> a hangarock (18 years ago for a friend's wedding, so I don't know where
>> the research came from), except backwards.  It was a tube with a big box
>> pleat in the centre back, sewn down along the top edge.  I had such a
>> small bust, and such a long stride, that the pleat went all the way
>> round to under my arms!  But certainly putting it in front would allow
>> for pregnancy.
>>     
>
> Yes, the inset picture does seem to show a third brooch in the center.  So far 
> as I know, no such brooch was found in the grave, but we don't have full data 
> on the find.  It does show a narrow apron worn in front and positioned 
> between the tortoise brooches, which I'm skeptical about, since that approach 
> would also hide the silk trim on the apron dress.
>
>   
I had interpreted it as the centre section of the apron dress, with a 
big pleat under each brooch making that part stand out in front, rather 
than an additional separate piece of fabric.  If the pleat is big enough 
that the fabric underneath meets at the centre front, then a brooch at 
the centre could hold all those layers together.  But it does seem odd 
to indicate an extra brooch unless there was some evidence.

Jean


> There are any number of ways in which a sewn pleat/s could be incorporated 
> into an apron dress.  The only one that I know has been documented by a find 
> is this one, which was found in Denmark and is the subject of a 
> reconstruction model in the Danish National Museum.  There's a photo of the 
> reconstruction about 2/3 of the way down on this page on the right:
>
> http://www.vikingsofbjornstad.gbtllc.com/MuseumCopenhagen.htm
>
>
>
>
>   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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On Tuesday 15 July 2008 3:17:19 pm Anne wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > On Sunday 13 July 2008 5:24:51 pm Anne wrote:
[snip].
> >
> > Yes, the inset picture does seem to show a third brooch in the center. 
> > So far as I know, no such brooch was found in the grave, but we don't
> > have full data on the find.  It does show a narrow apron worn in front
> > and positioned between the tortoise brooches, which I'm skeptical about,
> > since that approach would also hide the silk trim on the apron dress.
>
> I had interpreted it as the centre section of the apron dress, with a
> big pleat under each brooch making that part stand out in front, rather
> than an additional separate piece of fabric.  If the pleat is big enough
> that the fabric underneath meets at the centre front, then a brooch at
> the centre could hold all those layers together.  But it does seem odd
> to indicate an extra brooch unless there was some evidence.

Peter Beatson also interpreted the drawing as showing a separate apron.  But 
I've looked at the drawing again and you could well be right; it is ambiguous 
and could just be a large pleat created by pinning part of the excess fabric 
through the brooches.  

I really, really want to see the full write up in NESAT X.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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Oooh me too!=A0 I sincerely believe that aprons were worn in the way depict=
ed, but in this case it wouldn't even lie neat and flat with the sagging ov=
erdress underneath it.=A0 The silk on linen is fairly stiff and would not j=
ust lie crumpled flat.=A0 Gytha


----- Original Message ----
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 5:40:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume


Peter Beatson also interpreted the drawing as showing a separate apron.=A0 =
But =

I've looked at the drawing again and you could well be right; it is ambiguo=
us =

and could just be a large pleat created by pinning part of the excess fabri=
c =

through the brooches.=A0 =


I really, really want to see the full write up in NESAT X.



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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I like your thought about how the third brooch might work.=A0 I'm wondering=
 if the absence of the third brooch might be=A0explained by the fact that=
=A0this dress was not being worn, it was found in a box.=A0=A0 Gytha

----- Original Message ----
From: Anne <anne.montgomerie@googlemail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 12:17:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume


I had interpreted it as the centre section of the apron dress, with a =

big pleat under each brooch making that part stand out in front, rather =

than an additional separate piece of fabric.=A0 If the pleat is big enough =

that the fabric underneath meets at the centre front, then a brooch at =

the centre could hold all those layers together.=A0 But it does seem odd =

to indicate an extra brooch unless there was some evidence.

Jean


> There are any number of ways in which a sewn pleat/s could be incorporate=
d =

> into an apron dress.=A0 The only one that I know has been documented by a=
 find =

> is this one, which was found in Denmark and is the subject of a =

> reconstruction model in the Danish National Museum.=A0 There's a photo of=
 the =

> reconstruction about 2/3 of the way down on this page on the right:
>
> http://www.vikingsofbjornstad.gbtllc.com/MuseumCopenhagen.htm
>
>
>
>
>=A0 =

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Someone interesting studying classical clothing
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Thanks, I hadn't and found it interesting.=A0 =






--- On Sun, 7/6/08, Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:

From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: [h-cost] Someone interesting studying classical clothing
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, July 6, 2008, 1:18 PM

Anyone seen this?
http://tinyurl.com/55zagc




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On Tuesday 15 July 2008 11:46:57 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> I like your thought about how the third brooch might work.=A0 I'm wonderi=
ng
> if the absence of the third brooch might be=A0explained by the fact that=
=A0this
> dress was not being worn, it was found in a box.=A0=A0 Gytha

Yes, but the tortoise brooches were also found in the box; the fabric remai=
ns =

were wrapped around them (with the loops still in them!). From Beatson's =

write up:

"Once cleaned and unfolded, the bundle proved to be composed of two =

silk-trimmed garments, and enclosed a pair of bronze brooches. Rather than =

dressing the deceased, the clothing had been carefully folded and stowed in=
 a =

birch box with a leather lid, which was placed under the floor of the grave =

chamber."

There is no indication that a third brooch was also found in the box in the =

summaries I've seen.  So I'm skeptical about that kind of solution.


-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Tuesday 15 July 2008 11:42:42 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Oooh me too!=A0 I sincerely believe that aprons were worn in the way
> depicted, but in this case it wouldn't even lie neat and flat with the
> sagging overdress underneath it.=A0 The silk on linen is fairly stiff and
> would not just lie crumpled flat.=A0 Gytha


That's an excellent point.  The silk trimmed section looks fairly thick.  I=
t =

would probably take all three brooches to secure in the box-pleat like =

position shown by the second drawing.



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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My take on this garment is that they aren't pleats at all. They are hanging
loosely, but when you sketch, it might look like pleats, but is actually
folds.

If you have a look at the Ancient styles of palla, some of them are quite
deep in the centre as well. I made one which ended up a little larger than
expected and it hung in deep folds in the centre, just like the ones in the
drawing.

Hey, she may even have been some type of historical reenactor :-)

Glenda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, 17 July 2008 12:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume

On Tuesday 15 July 2008 11:42:42 pm Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> Oooh me too!=A0 I sincerely believe that aprons were worn in the way
> depicted, but in this case it wouldn't even lie neat and flat with the
> sagging overdress underneath it.=A0 The silk on linen is fairly stiff and
> would not just lie crumpled flat.=A0 Gytha


That's an excellent point.  The silk trimmed section looks fairly thick.  It

would probably take all three brooches to secure in the box-pleat like =

position shown by the second drawing.



-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Wednesday 16 July 2008 10:39:07 pm Glenda Robinson wrote:
> My take on this garment is that they aren't pleats at all. They are hanging
> loosely, but when you sketch, it might look like pleats, but is actually
> folds.
>
> If you have a look at the Ancient styles of palla, some of them are quite
> deep in the centre as well. I made one which ended up a little larger than
> expected and it hung in deep folds in the centre, just like the ones in the
> drawing.

I think you're thinking of the other sketch.  There are two sketches on the 
Pskov site.  One is the main sketch, which shows the overdress hanging in 
deep folds in the center.  The other is a half-size inset sketch, which 
appears to show three brooches--two tortoise brooches and one smaller round 
brooch in between them.  It's the second sketch I was talking about and that 
I think Gytha and several others were discussing also.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 03:52:07 +0200, Catherine Olanich Raymond  
<cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> There is no indication that a third brooch was also found in the box in  
> the summaries I've seen.  So I'm skeptical about that kind of solution.

I agree about being sceptical, but would still consider the possibility og  
there being a 3rd brooch of some kind. I might have missed something when  
I was reading, but didn't see any mention of what the body was wearing.  
Just what was in the box. If that is correct, that leaves 4 options open ;
The body is wearing the brooch, it was never in the grave at all,there  
never was a 3rd brooch or the 3rd possible brooch is more of a multi  
purpose one worn with different garments. The turtle brooches have a  
specific function as far as we know and is only used with a certain style  
of garments. That does not exclude other ornaments being worn with the  
apron dress.

Making a similar aprondress with the same aproximate width, lenght for  
your own body with the same quality fabrics would probably go a long way  
to solving the question. Or not. Looking at the width and the fact that  
the garment would most likely sag if it was folded at the middle front,  
I'd look for ways to solve this problem. A brooch would do less damage  
than basting. I would also look at the weight and stiffness of the  
material to see if that in itself would would keep it folded , unsagging  
and reasonably flat. And if not, what do I need to do to keep it from  
sagging without doing damage to the fabric.

I'd also like to see whatever other evidence they might have, that makes  
them draw in the 3rd possible brooch.

Gunvor


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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric search
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I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.  I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
fabric.com
denverfabric.com
joann.com
hancock fabrics.com
trimfabrics.com

as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect *color* plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece product, but that would be a last choice.

Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
Thanks!
Denise B
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric search
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Have you tried a Tartan shop?  Google Tartan Fabric and you may get a hit or 
two...but it may be $$

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 

>I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid. 
>I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.  I've looked 
>through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
> fabric.com
> denverfabric.com
> joann.com
> hancock fabrics.com
> trimfabrics.com
>
> as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect *color* 
> plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't 
> do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece 
> product, but that would be a last choice.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
> Thanks!
> Denise B
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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Tried Pendleton Wool?

Arlys

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 10:07:00 -0300 SPaterson <sjpaterson@eastlink.ca>
writes:
> Have you tried a Tartan shop?  Google Tartan Fabric and you may get a 
> hit or 
> two...but it may be $$
> 
> Sarah Paterson
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> >I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue 
> plaid. 
> >I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.  I've 
> looked 
> >through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
> > fabric.com
> > denverfabric.com
> > joann.com
> > hancock fabrics.com
> > trimfabrics.com
> >
> > as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect 
> *color* 
> > plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which 
> won't 
> > do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored 
> polarfleece 
> > product, but that would be a last choice.
> >
> > Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
> > Thanks!
> > Denise B
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

____________________________________________________________
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 15:21:31 +0000
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Fashionfabricsclub.com (which is now the same as denverfabric.com) and fabric.com get new stuff all the time, so your wool might show up if you can wait a bit and keep checking back--I think they get new mill ends from the retail clothing manufacturers, so the fall-winter stuff should start coming in soon. 

Class Act Fabrics has a 70% wool 30% nylon blanket weight red plaid right now: http://classactfabrics.com/wool/wool_fabric.htm

Renaissance Fabrics http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?section=W has an auburn and green plaid 100% wool.

William Booth, Draper, http://wmboothdraper.com/ has a red and white "bag hose" check in wool.

Burnley & Trowbridge has a black watch plaid wool on its site; they usually  have lots more fabrics that are not posted on-line, so it might be worth e-mailing them with your request: http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/index.asp

Good luck! 

Lauren
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net> 

> I am searching for wool (coat or blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid. I'd 
> also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid. I've looked through all 
> the plaids and the wools at these vendors: 
> fabric.com 
> denverfabric.com 
> joann.com 
> hancock fabrics.com 
> trimfabrics.com 
> 
> as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby. We found the perfect *color* plaid 
> at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't do. At this 
> point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece product, but that would 
> be a last choice. 
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search? 
> Thanks! 
> Denise B 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Hi, just posting here an interesting study I found on the net:

http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/thesis/sdreedthesis.pdf

Zuzana


      
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B. Black & Sons. You can find a link online, but sometimes you have to contact them to find out what isn't on their online store.

Kimiko


--- On Thu, 7/17/08, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:

> I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red
> or blue plaid. ...
> Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
> Thanks!
> Denise B



      
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I would also recommend Vogue Fabrics in Chicago. 

www.voguefabricsstore.com 

Rogie, one of the owners, is a wonderful person who has become aware of the 
needs of us Historical folks.

Did I mention she is driving up a truck load of goodies for Costume-Con 28?

And, BTB, William Booth, Draper, http://wmboothdraper.com/, is just south of 
Milwaukee and they have great stuff!

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/    
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I've purchased solid color wools from Fabric Mart Fabrics (in  
Pennsylvania) and found them quite satisfactory.  But I haven't  
checked their website lately so don't know what they have in plaids  
at the moment.

http://fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/index.php

Hope your shopping is successful!
Suzanne

On Jul 17, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue  
> plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.   
> I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
> fabric.com
> denverfabric.com
> joann.com
> hancock fabrics.com
> trimfabrics.com
>
> as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect  
> *color* plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta  
> which won't do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately  
> colored polarfleece product, but that would be a last choice.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
> Thanks!
> Denise B

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Cool!  I was a fellow student with Susan when she did this  research.
 
Ann Wass



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
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Try fashionfabricsclub.com too.=A0=A0 They can be a bit slow on shipping, b=
ut they have a huge selection.
=A0
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=3DPlaid
=A0
Chris =





--- On Thu, 7/17/08, Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com> wrote:

From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric search
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 7:24 PM

I've purchased solid color wools from Fabric Mart Fabrics (in  =

Pennsylvania) and found them quite satisfactory.  But I haven't  =

checked their website lately so don't know what they have in plaids  =

at the moment.

http://fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/index.php

Hope your shopping is successful!
Suzanne

On Jul 17, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue  =

> plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.   =

> I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
> fabric.com
> denverfabric.com
> joann.com
> hancock fabrics.com
> trimfabrics.com
>
> as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect  =

> *color* plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta  =

> which won't do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately  =

> colored polarfleece product, but that would be a last choice.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
> Thanks!
> Denise B




      =

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Try www.periodfabric.com  they have a nice selection of solids and a few
plaids in wool.
Check back from time to time as their selection will change.

They also carry Sunforger tent canvas.

Guenivere 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] fabric search

I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid.
I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.  I've looked
through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
fabric.com
denverfabric.com
joann.com
hancock fabrics.com
trimfabrics.com

as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect *color*
plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't do.
At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece product,
but that would be a last choice.

Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
Thanks!
Denise B
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
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I thought I had saved it, but now cannot find a bookmarked file of a 
picture of an ancient Egyptian beaded (crocheted?) dress that must have 
been exhumed at some point and was still in fairly decent shape.   Does 
someone still have that link?

Sylvia

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:57:42 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Egyptian dress
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I just found it, so never mind the last msg.

Sylvia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
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Sylvia

My recollection from the article in KMR is that the dress was netted, not crocheted.  When you find the link, could you post it here as well.  I'm not sure that I still of that magazine.

Ginni Morgan

>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/17/08 4:56 PM >>>
I thought I had saved it, but now cannot find a bookmarked file of a 
picture of an ancient Egyptian beaded (crocheted?) dress that must have 
been exhumed at some point and was still in fairly decent shape.   Does 
someone still have that link?

Sylvia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric search
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Thank you so much for all the links!  The fabric is for my teenage daughter, 
and if you think sewing for a customer can be a PITA, wait until you try it 
for a picky teen who lives with you...

ugggghhhhhh!

She finally decided that the Stewart Tartan plaid is closest to what she 
wants, but I'm simply not willing to spend $35 to $70 per yard. I really 
liked that blanket weight piece marked down to $15, but she "doesn't like 
that yellow stripe" whine whine whine (see my eyes roll)

I will keep all these emails and keep checking the selections to see if any 
fabris are added to the webstores you have shared with me.

Thanks!
Denise 

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From: "Regina Voorhes" <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume College "Finish Your Finery" Day
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For anyone attending Costume College in Los Angeles Aug 1-3, if you are
already in the L.A. area please think about joining us -

*Saturday, July 19*: Finish Your Finery! Don't have your College ensemble
quite done yet? Need fitting help? Trimming advice? Some CGW members are
organizing a day devoted to helping each other finish those last minute
costume details.

In Nuevo, hosted by Shelley Peters;
In Palos Verdes, hosted by Mary Jane Jewell;
and in Pasadena, hosted by Regina Lawson Voorhes (818)four39-six193
Please see *http://www.cgwcostumers.org/CGW_events.html* for details.

Hope to see you there,
Regina in L.A.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Egyptian dress
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Sylvia, 

May I bother you for that link?  I think I've seen it but not sure, and my
history class starts in barely a month!  Wish I were better organized right
now.

Laurie T.
Phoenix

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Egyptian dress

I just found it, so never mind the last msg.

Sylvia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric search
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You can also try:

http://www.thewoolconnection.com/catalog.php?category=1

Wool Connection also sells on EBay--username thewoolconnection1  A lot of her 
EBay stuff is small pieces of hand-overdyed wool aimed at the rug hooking 
market, but a fair amount of her stuff is mill-dyed yardage of coatings and 
sometimes herringbones and flannels in colors that work for garb.

In general, looking on EBay for "wool herringbone fabric" or "wool flannel 
fabric" can yield interesting results though you're taking more of a chance, 
since you're less likely to be able to get a swatch before you buy.

B. Black & Sons, which specializes in suiting fabrics, also has some nice 
flannels, some of which are in colors like deep red and purple.  They also 
have sales--I bought some lovely blue flannel from them once for $5 a yard on 
sale.

http://www.bblackandsons.com/store/store_flannel.html



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Thursday 17 July 2008 8:38:24 pm Ginni Morgan wrote:
> Sylvia
>
> My recollection from the article in KMR is that the dress was netted, not
> crocheted.  When you find the link, could you post it here as well.  I'm
> not sure that I still of that magazine.

I scanned in the article the last time this came up and have photos of several 
such dresses.  E-mail me privately if you want me to send you the pictures.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pskov Viking costume
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On Thursday 17 July 2008 5:44:38 am Gunvor wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 03:52:07 +0200, Catherine Olanich Raymond
>
> <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> > There is no indication that a third brooch was also found in the box in
> > the summaries I've seen.  So I'm skeptical about that kind of solution.
>
> I agree about being sceptical, but would still consider the possibility og
> there being a 3rd brooch of some kind. I might have missed something when
> I was reading, but didn't see any mention of what the body was wearing.
> Just what was in the box.

Agreed. Though I'm inclined to read the lack of reference to a third brooch as 
an indication that there wasn't one.  Still, it would be foolish to leap to 
that conclusion before reviewing the Pskov researchers' final write up.

I have also been wondering whether there was a body in the grave--and whether 
there was any evidence that the grave had previously been raided.

> If that is correct, that leaves 4 options open ; 
> The body is wearing the brooch, it was never in the grave at all,there
> never was a 3rd brooch or the 3rd possible brooch is more of a multi
> purpose one worn with different garments. The turtle brooches have a
> specific function as far as we know and is only used with a certain style
> of garments. That does not exclude other ornaments being worn with the
> apron dress.

Quite true.
>
> Making a similar aprondress with the same aproximate width, lenght for
> your own body with the same quality fabrics would probably go a long way
> to solving the question. Or not. Looking at the width and the fact that
> the garment would most likely sag if it was folded at the middle front,
> I'd look for ways to solve this problem. 

That's what I plan to do.

> A brooch would do less damage 
> than basting. I would also look at the weight and stiffness of the
> material to see if that in itself would would keep it folded , unsagging
> and reasonably flat. And if not, what do I need to do to keep it from
> sagging without doing damage to the fabric.
>
> I'd also like to see whatever other evidence they might have, that makes
> them draw in the 3rd possible brooch.

Ditto.  





-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Baer Fabrics in Louisville, KY:
         www.baerfabrics.com/

Not your topic, but maybe helpful to someone else, Beacon Fabric in 
Florida - everything for upholstery and outdoor including notions and 
hardware.  Tents, anyone?
         www.beaconfabric.com

HTH,
Sandy

At 07:52 AM 7/17/2008, you wrote:
>I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue 
>plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue 
>plaid.  I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
>fabric.com
>denverfabric.com
>joann.com
>hancock fabrics.com
>trimfabrics.com
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
>Thanks!
>Denise B

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
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Here is the URL for the Egyptian beaded net dress:
http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/detail/details/index_no_login.php?objectid=UC17743&accesscheck=%2Fdetail%2Fdetails%2Findex.php 
copy the entire url.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
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www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
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There are also a couple at the MFA in Boston:

http://mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=3Dtrue&id=3D146531&coll_k=
eywords=3D&coll_accession=3D&coll_name=3Ddress&coll_artist=3D&coll_place=3D=
&coll_medium=3D&coll_culture=3Degypt&coll_classification=3D&coll_credit=3D&=
coll_provenance=3D&coll_location=3D&coll_has_images=3D&coll_on_view=3D&coll=
_sort=3D2&coll_sort_order=3D0&coll_view=3D0&coll_package=3D0&coll_start=3D1

Beadnet dress
Egyptian, Old Kingdom, Dynasty 4, reign of Khufu, 2551=962528 B.C.
Findspot: Giza, Egypt
Length x width: 113 x 44 cm (44 1/2 x 17 5/16 in.)
Faience
Harvard University=97Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition, 1927
Accession number: 27.1548.1

http://mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=3Dtrue&id=3D315900&coll_k=
eywords=3D&coll_accession=3D&coll_name=3Ddress&coll_artist=3D&coll_place=3D=
&coll_medium=3D&coll_culture=3Degypt&coll_classification=3D&coll_credit=3D&=
coll_provenance=3D&coll_location=3D&coll_has_images=3D&coll_on_view=3D&coll=
_sort=3D2&coll_sort_order=3D0&coll_view=3D0&coll_package=3D0&coll_start=3D1

Beadnet dress
Egyptian, Old Kingdom, Dynasty 6, 2323=962150 B.C.
Findspot: Giza, Egypt
Overall: 114.3 x 73.7cm (45 x 29in.)
Overall: 116.8 x 31.8 x 17.8 cm (46 x 12 1/2 x 7 in.)
Block (fabric figure form with clip and cleat): 122.6 x 18.4 cm (48
1/4 x 7 1/4 in.)
Faience
Harvard University=97Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition, 1933
Accession number: 33.1020.1




On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at 3:54 AM, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> w=
rote:
> Here is the URL for the Egyptian beaded net dress:
> http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/detail/details/index_no_login.php?objectid=3D=
UC17743&accesscheck=3D%2Fdetail%2Fdetails%2Findex.php
> copy the entire url.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- =

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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I ordered some gold braids from Watts in London via their webpage.
When i clicked the braid i wanted, they had 2 to choose from, i didnt notice that it was the other one that popped up, so i ordered 10 meters of a narrow scalloped braid, it should have ben the wider one.
When i clicked the other one, vise versa happened.
I complainted about it when i received the 2 braids i ordered, i should have had a wide scalloped one, but got a narrow, and vise versa.
All they said, back to me, that they were sorry and thankyou for notice it to us.
Dont you think they should have sended me some new ones, of the ones i thoaght i had ordered?
I dont have time to send back to them and waite for a new posting..............

Bjarne
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College "Finish Your Finery" Day
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On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 6:32 PM, Regina Voorhes <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
wrote:

> For anyone attending Costume College in Los Angeles Aug 1-3, if you are
> already in the L.A. area please think about joining us -
>
> *Saturday, July 19*: Finish Your Finery! Don't have your College ensemble
> quite done yet? Need fitting help? Trimming advice? Some CGW members are
> organizing a day devoted to helping each other finish those last minute
> costume details.
>
> In Nuevo, hosted by Shelley Peters;
> In Palos Verdes, hosted by Mary Jane Jewell;
> and in Pasadena, hosted by Regina Lawson Voorhes (818)four39-six193
> Please see *http://www.cgwcostumers.org/CGW_events.html* for details.



The best friend is always the last to know. ;-)
Will there be room for cutting out? I have some pallazzo pants to make that
I could have made at any time since last Costume College, and still haven't
gotten around to.

By the way, the link won't wortk with asterisks around it.

MaggiRos
~who will be selling and signing her book at the Gilded Bat in the CoCo
markeptlace.
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
and your favorite bookseller
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Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Dont you think they should have sended me some new ones, of the ones i thoaght i had ordered?
>   

Perhaps you should ask about making an exchange. They may be willing to 
trade for the sizes you need.

> I dont have time to send back to them and waite for a new posting..............

Then I suppose you need to find a local source very quickly.



Dawn

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A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:

http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/

And it's kosher!

--Robin

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OMG! This is great!! 

Chinese Tartans???

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:57 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric


A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:

http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/

And it's kosher!

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:00:32 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic
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  I would certainly think it would be good customer relations to do so,
especially since it was an error on their website that caused the problem...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 6:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] off topic

I ordered some gold braids from Watts in London via their webpage.
When i clicked the braid i wanted, they had 2 to choose from, i didnt notice
that it was the other one that popped up, so i ordered 10 meters of a narrow
scalloped braid, it should have ben the wider one.
When i clicked the other one, vise versa happened.
I complainted about it when i received the 2 braids i ordered, i should have
had a wide scalloped one, but got a narrow, and vise versa.
All they said, back to me, that they were sorry and thankyou for notice it
to us.
Dont you think they should have sended me some new ones, of the ones i
thoaght i had ordered?
I dont have time to send back to them and waite for a new
posting..............

Bjarne


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Apparently there's a clan McWong. I'm not making that up.



McClaudine



----- Original Message ----
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:47:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric

OMG! This is great!! 

Chinese Tartans???

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:57 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric


A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:

http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/

And it's kosher!

--Robin

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A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:?
Have to send my husband's reaction to this--Loch Chaim!

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:56 pm
Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric


A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:?
?
http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/?
?
And it's kosher!?
?
--Robin?
?
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h-costume@mail.indra.com?
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume?

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Robin Netherton wrote:
> A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:
> 
> http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/

A friend of mine has a kilt of white and pale-blue magen-david plaid. He 
says it's the tartan of Clan McAbees.

Then there's the classic Anna Russel bit from her lecture "How to Enjoy 
your Bagpipe."

"Then you cover it in its little shirt which should be made of the 
family tartan. I belong to the McPimple clan. It's the only Scottish 
clan to have a polka-dotted tartan."

andy

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Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might 
work for a stage costume of this?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] 15th century surcoats etc
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Hi all,
 I am giving a class soon (in the context of the SCA), entitled 'Cotes and surcotes:
Alternatives to Cloaks'. The idea is to give a broad view of outerwear in Western 
Europe from the 13th to the 16th century, describing various alternatives to cloaks
(which can be awkward and a bit useless if you're doing more than just sitting 
around). 

However, the 15th century is giving me a bit of trouble. 

The 13th century is awash in various kinds of surcoats, many of
which carry through into the 14th, and the 16th century of course, has doublets and
jerkins and cassocks and so on galore. But there seems to be nothing equivalent
in the 15th century, especially for women. This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I missing something
here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear?

Thanks,
Claire
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Claire Clarke wrote:
> This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I missing something
> here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear?

I believe that the houppelande/gown is exactly what you are looking for: 
outerwear.  Heavier in the winter, lighter in the summer.  Under that 
the kirtle and shift would be the indoor wear when you are warm enough 
or feeling informal.

cv
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Claire Clarke wrote:
>> This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the 
>> Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why 
>> would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I 
>> missing something
>> here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear?
> 
> I believe that the houppelande/gown is exactly what you are looking for: 
> outerwear.  Heavier in the winter, lighter in the summer.  Under that 
> the kirtle and shift would be the indoor wear when you are warm enough 
> or feeling informal.

I was about to post just that, and then saw Cynthia got there first!

Remember also that the houppelande (or equivalent gown) was frequently fur-lined.

By the 1440s or so, the shape of the overdress changed, so the houppelande is 
gradually replaced by various V-necked overdress versions, again typically 
fur-linedd. When you see women outside in these, they are often wearing hoods.

There are even some nice 15th-century genre scenes of people having snowball 
fights wearing overgowns and hoods.

--Robin



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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:37:04 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?
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First i am not sertain if the word is coif or hood, i am talking about the =
head dress worn for the lady i am going to recreate:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm
What i can't figure out is the linnen part that peaks out from the black pe=
arl coif. To me i cant figure out how it can bend out in the oval sides wit=
hout bending in again at the ears, is it the painter who made something wro=
ng or how on earth is it done?
Can someone explain to me please?
I have ben so fortunate that a grave found recently found in H=F8rby Kirke =
from 1600 had a coif excactly like this i am going to make, unfortunately i=
 am not allowed to publish it yeat, because they want it to be published at=
 the website called: http://www.livinghistory.dk/- I have just printed out =
the pattern in the right size and i guess i am going to use the same patter=
n for the under linnen part, only slightly bigger.
I am very excited to start this projekt, and i must go hunting for pearls o=
n monday for the embellishment. I have planned to use some of my gold pearl=
 purl also.
It is a lady named Ester Gr=F8lsted, who made the pattern draft after origi=
nal wich was red silk.

Bjarne
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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:41:14 -0400
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Yes, I agree, they should have!

Patty

________________________________________
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] off topic

I ordered some gold braids from Watts in London via their webpage.
When i clicked the braid i wanted, they had 2 to choose from, i didnt notice that it was the other one that popped up, so i ordered 10 meters of a narrow scalloped braid, it should have ben the wider one.
When i clicked the other one, vise versa happened.
I complainted about it when i received the 2 braids i ordered, i should have had a wide scalloped one, but got a narrow, and vise versa.
All they said, back to me, that they were sorry and thankyou for notice it to us.
Dont you think they should have sended me some new ones, of the ones i thoaght i had ordered?
I dont have time to send back to them and waite for a new posting..............

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th century surcoats, etc.
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In "The Medieval Tailor's Assistant," Sarah Thursfield illustrates 15th
century dress with the following image.

Scene from mass baptism, 1468, Flemish/Burgundian
Chronisques du Hainaut, Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels MS 9243, f.72
It is Thursfield's plate nine on page 103

The image shows men and a woman undressing.  The woman is wearing a fur
lined houppeland with close cut mitten sleeves.  Underneath she is wearing a
square neck kirtle with a wide, possibly jeweled, belt.  She is also wearing
a partlet, or the equivalent, possibly silk.  A man in the image is removing
a fur lined houppeland with wide, closed sleeves (but not hanging).
Underneath he is wearing a puff-sleeved short jerkin and hose with points.
He may also have on a belt, but it isn't clear.  Under his jerkin, which has
an open front secured by some kind of lacing, he has on a white shirt.  The
four other men in the image are wearing more conservative jerkins, older
style cotes or short houppelands. Two are clearly jerkins and the other two
are ambiguous.  One man is receiving assistance with his joined hose while
still wearing a belted short cote or houppeland that is slit at the sides to
the hip. (It could also be a pleat.) His legs are bare and he may not have
another garment (except for shift and braes) underneath.

Hopefully you can locate a copy of the image.  The detail and variety of
clothing is excellent.

Joan

 

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I think that many of the hair pieces at this time used buckram or horse hai=
r fabric for a stiffer and unforgiving shape to the hats/coverings. It look=
s much like the frames that held up veils but combined with a cone shaped t=
op. Kinda like a Cone-head from Saturday Night Live. The shape looks to be =
to be a strip of stiff fabric that is shaped around the face. It would stan=
d off the face a little so the pearls could be seen just in front of the ea=
rs. It went cown to the bottom of the ear lobe. It looks like someone came =
up with a first in portraits of this time. A hat with the french hood front=
. Just in my opinion. I've never seen one like this before.Sincerely, Rebec=
ca Rautine> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: S=
at, 19 Jul 2008 17:37:04 +0200> Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?=
> > First i am not sertain if the word is coif or hood, i am talking about =
the head dress worn for the lady i am going to recreate:> http://www.my-dre=
wscostumes.dk/br2.htm> What i can't figure out is the linnen part that peak=
s out from the black pearl coif. To me i cant figure out how it can bend ou=
t in the oval sides without bending in again at the ears, is it the painter=
 who made something wrong or how on earth is it done?> Can someone explain =
to me please?> I have ben so fortunate that a grave found recently found in=
 H=F8rby Kirke from 1600 had a coif excactly like this i am going to make, =
unfortunately i am not allowed to publish it yeat, because they want it to =
be published at the website called: http://www.livinghistory.dk/- I have ju=
st printed out the pattern in the right size and i guess i am going to use =
the same pattern for the under linnen part, only slightly bigger.> I am ver=
y excited to start this projekt, and i must go hunting for pearls on monday=
 for the embellishment. I have planned to use some of my gold pearl purl al=
so.> It is a lady named Ester Gr=F8lsted, who made the pattern draft after =
original wich was red silk.> > Bjarne> ____________________________________=
___________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.=
indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest?
In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730.

Bjarne 
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     A Modesty Piece was a ruffle of gathered lace, or linen fabric with a
lace edge, worn across the top of the stomacher.

     I think it may have helped conceal a cleavage line, since you rarely
see artwork with that line.

     Some reenactors call a neck-handkerchief (fichu) a modesty piece, but
the term was not used for that in the 18th century. So don't let them
confuse you. :-)

     -Carol


> Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest?
> In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never
> heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730.
>
> Bjarne

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From: "Regina Voorhes" <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?
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Bjarne,
I think what you are seeing is one of the layers of caps, under the final,
black velvet & pearl bullet head hat.

The pictures noted below all show layering, with varying degrees of
stiffening to the sheer layer:

http://www.livinghistory.dk/pibekraver/thumbnails/pict0107.jpg or
http://www.livinghistory.dk/pibekraver/thumbnails/pict0922.jpg
http://www.livinghistory.dk/kavalkade-billeder/image006.jpg
http://www.livinghistory.dk/kavalkade-billeder/image010.jpg
and
http://www.marquise.de/images/1600/162x_1.jpg

The headdress seems to be specific to northern Europe, possible because it
does cover the head completely (cold there, after all).  The shape is very
similar to how hairstyles were being worn in other places, higher and
higher, and almost straight up from the head.   I think the hat, itself is
made with wedge-shaped sections.

Have fun,
Regina in L.A.
* ------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:37:04 +0200
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000801c8e9b5$4d0a4450$* *ebe73f50@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

First i am not sertain if the word is coif or hood, i am talking about the
head dress worn for the lady i am going to recreate:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm
What i can't figure out is the linnen part that peaks out from the black
pearl coif. To me i cant figure out how it can bend out in the oval sides
without bending in again at the ears, is it the painter who made something
wrong or how on earth is it done?
Can someone explain to me please?
I have ben so fortunate that a grave found recently found in H?rby Kirke
from 1600 had a coif excactly like this i am going to make, unfortunately i
am not allowed to publish it yeat, because they want it to be published at
the website called: http://www.livinghistory.dk/- I have just printed out
the pattern in the right size and i guess i am going to use the same pattern
for the under linnen part, only slightly bigger.
I am very excited to start this projekt, and i must go hunting for pearls on
monday for the embellishment. I have planned to use some of my gold pearl
purl also.
It is a lady named Ester Gr?lsted, who made the pattern draft after original
wich was red silk.

Bjarne

------------------------------*
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Do the crosses floating above the heads mean that the person is dead? Just curious.

Kate

> http://www.livinghistory.dk/kavalkade-billeder/image006.jpg
> http://www.livinghistory.dk/kavalkade-billeder/image010.jpg
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I would suggest using a medium weight natural color linen as a straight sleeveless shift/tunic.  Then do the bead net and fasten it down to the undershift.

Ginni Morgan

>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/18/08 9:55 PM >>>
Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might 
work for a stage costume of this?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com 
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It's the net fabric I need to find.   Any suggestions?

On Jul 21, 2008, at 10:45 AM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

> I would suggest using a medium weight natural color linen as a 
> straight sleeveless shift/tunic.  Then do the bead net and fasten it 
> down to the undershift.
>
> Ginni Morgan
>
>>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/18/08 9:55 PM >>>
> Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might
> work for a stage costume of this?
>
>
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
> http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Think macrame for this one.  The beads are on cord which is netted together to create the dress, NOT sewn onto a net fabric.  Thus you need to make your beaded macrame shell and then line it with something solid (the linen shift).  However, if you choose to applique the beads to clothe and then sew up the shift, DO NOT use net fabric.  It won't be strong enough to support the weight of the beads.  

My first encounter with this dress was the article in KMR (a journal re Egyptian archaeology) which discussed the find and the reconstruction.  IIRC, the hypothesis there was that this was worn over some form of a linen garment the style of which is presently unknown.

Ginni 

>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/21/08 9:50 AM >>>
It's the net fabric I need to find.   Any suggestions?

On Jul 21, 2008, at 10:45 AM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

> I would suggest using a medium weight natural color linen as a 
> straight sleeveless shift/tunic.  Then do the bead net and fasten it 
> down to the undershift.
>
> Ginni Morgan
>
>>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/18/08 9:55 PM >>>
> Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might
> work for a stage costume of this?
>
>
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
> http://www.d-e-designs.com 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:07:41 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I had been thinking of crocheting, but I really don't want to have to 
macrame a dress either.   That's why I asked if anyone had come across 
a netted fabric that would work.  I know that nylon net is way too 
weak.

Sylvia

On Jul 21, 2008, at 11:02 AM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

> Think macrame for this one.  The beads are on cord which is netted 
> together to create the dress, NOT sewn onto a net fabric.  Thus you 
> need to make your beaded macrame shell and then line it with something 
> solid (the linen shift).  However, if you choose to applique the beads 
> to clothe and then sew up the shift, DO NOT use net fabric.  It won't 
> be strong enough to support the weight of the beads.
>
> My first encounter with this dress was the article in KMR (a journal 
> re Egyptian archaeology) which discussed the find and the 
> reconstruction.  IIRC, the hypothesis there was that this was worn 
> over some form of a linen garment the style of which is presently 
> unknown.
>
> Ginni
>
>>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/21/08 9:50 AM >>>
> It's the net fabric I need to find.   Any suggestions?
>
> On Jul 21, 2008, at 10:45 AM, Ginni Morgan wrote:
>
>> I would suggest using a medium weight natural color linen as a
>> straight sleeveless shift/tunic.  Then do the bead net and fasten it
>> down to the undershift.
>>
>> Ginni Morgan
>>
>>>>> Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> 7/18/08 9:55 PM >>>
>> Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might
>> work for a stage costume of this?
>>
>>
>> Sylvia Rognstad
>> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
>> http://www.d-e-designs.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:08:29 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I havent seen any fishnet for quite some time, but I'll look around.  
Thanks.

Sylvia




On Jul 21, 2008, at 12:02 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>> It's the net fabric I need to find.   Any suggestions?
>
> I used to see "fishnet" sold for decorating, in a little package with 
> some seashells in some asian import shops on the east coast. Something 
> like that, painted or dyed and decorated might work. We don't have 
> shops like that in the midwest, so I don't know if that sort of thing 
> is still available.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Ailith wrote:
> Do the crosses floating above the heads mean that the person is dead? Just curious.

That rings a bell for me, and it would make sense. It might also explain why 
those particular figures are wearing crowns.

(I came into this late, just when I saw that last note, so I don't know if the 
crowns were already discussed.)

--Robin

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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> It's the net fabric I need to find.   Any suggestions?

I used to see "fishnet" sold for decorating, in a little package with 
some seashells in some asian import shops on the east coast. Something 
like that, painted or dyed and decorated might work. We don't have shops 
like that in the midwest, so I don't know if that sort of thing is still 
available.


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral,
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http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
 
My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy

Sg

Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.

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Try Rose Brand fabrics for 1" scenery netting
http://www.rosebrand.com/product787/30-Scenery-Netting-FR.aspx?cid=158&idx=6
300&tid=1&info=Netting 

Kate



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 12:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress

Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might work for
a stage costume of this?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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For fishnets, try Hobby Lobby, or the Party Store (I think that's the name), or anyplace that sells Hawaiian party stuff.  Even 
Albertsons used to carry it in the summer years ago.  It's Luau Time!  :-)

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:08:29 -0600
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

I havent seen any fishnet for quite some time, but I'll look around.
Thanks.

Sylvia 

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Sylvia wrote:
>I had been thinking of crocheting, but I really don't want to have to 
>macrame a dress either.   That's why I asked if anyone had come across 
>a netted fabric that would work.  I know that nylon net is way too 
>weak.

Yes, my chief concern would be finding a way to attach or hang the beads that was *strong enough.* That many beads are going to be *very* heavy, and I'd be afraid that even sewing them onto linen fabric would not be strong enough. I would guess that the original beads were threaded onto the actual string from which the net was made.

If you do find some fishnet (1 inch squares or something like that) I'd suggest threading the beads on something strong and also sewing them individually to the strings of the net (i.e. sew through each bead, not just over the string they are threaded on).

Of course, if you aren't particularly looking for durability, this becomes less important and you do have more alternatives (many of which will be less work). 

I don't know whether Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood's book on Pharaonic clothing addresses this type of garment, but that might be a good source to check.



____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral,
	Madrid Spain
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OH, thank you.  Mari / Bridgette

On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 2:07 PM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
>
> My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy
>
> Sg
>
> Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Chris Laning wrote:
> Yes, my chief concern would be finding a way to attach or hang the beads that was *strong enough.* That many beads are going to be *very* heavy, and I'd be afraid that even sewing them onto linen fabric would not be strong enough. I would guess that the original beads were threaded onto the actual string from which the net was made.
>   

I was thinking, for stage use, if I was doing it I would try making 
paper beads right on the net, stretch it in a frame or something and 
roll slips of paper on it like this: 
http://www.tappi.org/paperu/art_class/paperBeads.htm

You could use silver or gold wrapping paper for metallic beads, and it 
would weigh a lot less than plastic or glass beads.



Dawn

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I have today made a mock up of the head dress from 1600 and i found pictures 
wich i was allowed to use from an effigy figure at the Ribe Cathedral in 
Denmark. This is the type of head dress wich was found in a grave recently!
I suppose the round shape you can see under the  head dress must be a hair 
pad or something?
Here you can see the pictures:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm

Bjarne 


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Paper beads might be a good idea.  Thanx!

Sylvia

On Jul 21, 2008, at 1:45 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Chris Laning wrote:
>> Yes, my chief concern would be finding a way to attach or hang the 
>> beads that was *strong enough.* That many beads are going to be 
>> *very* heavy, and I'd be afraid that even sewing them onto linen 
>> fabric would not be strong enough. I would guess that the original 
>> beads were threaded onto the actual string from which the net was 
>> made.
>>
>
> I was thinking, for stage use, if I was doing it I would try making 
> paper beads right on the net, stretch it in a frame or something and 
> roll slips of paper on it like this: 
> http://www.tappi.org/paperu/art_class/paperBeads.htm
>
> You could use silver or gold wrapping paper for metallic beads, and it 
> would weigh a lot less than plastic or glass beads.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Thank you!

Sylvia

On Jul 21, 2008, at 12:22 PM, Kate Pinner wrote:

> Try Rose Brand fabrics for 1" scenery netting
> http://www.rosebrand.com/product787/30-Scenery-Netting-FR.aspx? 
> cid=158&idx=6
> 300&tid=1&info=Netting
>
> Kate
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]  
> On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 12:56 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
>
> Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might  
> work for
> a stage costume of this?
>
>
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
> http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Her necklace looks like some that modern gang members wear. I gues that's ancient bling. I wonder what the S stands for. It's also on there belt.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 20:55:24 +0200> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?> > I have today made a mock up of the head dress from 1600 and i found pictures > wich i was allowed to use from an effigy figure at the Ribe Cathedral in > Denmark. This is the type of head dress wich was found in a grave recently!> I suppose the round shape you can see under the head dress must be a hair > pad or something?> Here you can see the pictures:> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm> > Bjarne > > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2 necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't think of what it's called right now. I'm tired and it's late) This is the first time I've seem the images that was referred to.
Do you think that the transparent aprons were like the little caps/head coverings that certain religions wear today? The ladies still wear the transparent caps/bonnets (not sure what religion that is really). Their material seems very stiff too. In the paintings, the aprons seem to buckle when they kneel. The angle seems unnatural and angular as it should curve under their knees.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: zeartiste@hotmail.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 20:16:53 -0400> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?> > > Her necklace looks like some that modern gang members wear. I gues that's ancient bling. I wonder what the S stands for. It's also on there belt.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>_______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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For a stage costume, use drinking straws, cut into pieces. They would thread
quickly onto string, (put two strings through a straw piece, then split the
strings and put through another straw piece with strings on either side, if
that makes sense) and you could put pre-made beaded fringe on the bottom for
"movement". 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress

Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might work for
a stage costume of this?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Rather than regular plastic drinking straws, what about using the coffee stirrer type straws? They would be more of the size of the original beads. They could be cut, slit length-wise, painted with plastic friendly spray paint, and then put on the netting. 

Kate
---- Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: 
> For a stage costume, use drinking straws, cut into pieces. They would thread
> quickly onto string, (put two strings through a straw piece, then split the
> strings and put through another straw piece with strings on either side, if
> that makes sense) and you could put pre-made beaded fringe on the bottom for
> "movement". 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
> 
> Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might work for
> a stage costume of this?
> 
> 
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
> http://www.d-e-designs.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:18:39 +0100
Thread-Topic: [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood
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Becky Rautine wrote:


>Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an >official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2 >necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't >think of what it's called right now.

Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too Catholic.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby
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Belt part---
Do you mean girdle? Long necklace-like belt that goes around waist and hangs
down center front? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:19 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood



Becky Rautine wrote:


>Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an
>official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2
>necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't
>think of what it's called right now.

Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It
was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in
Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too
Catholic.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself  
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a bunch  
of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have tons of linen  
off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a  
paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be  
flatlined.  I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many  
trips to the local Pendleton outlet.  I have no idea what to do with  
it all.

I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the  
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century  
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I  
haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often.

Curious what others do,
Emma

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Subject: [h-cost] paper doll book with turn-of-the-century outfits
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 From my local news:


Kansas City Museum will sell paper doll book with turn-of-the-century 
outfits

A paper doll book inspired by equestrienne Loula Long Combs has been 
created exclusively for the Kansas City Museum and is available at its 
visitor shop.

The $15.95 book by illustrator and doll historian Johana Gast Anderton 
features hats and outfits based on historic clothing and period 
photographs. Anderton also has donated to the museum a real 24-inch doll 
that Combs commissioned in her own likeness while in Europe in 1908.

Anderton will be on hand to sign copies of the paper doll book from noon 
to 4 p.m. Aug. 3 at the museum, 3218 Gladstone Boulevard.

| Matt Campbell, mcampbell@kcstar.com
http://www.kansascity.com/news/local/story/716482.html

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00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of 
> fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the 
> fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century 
> inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

How do you define "small'?

I need about half a yard to line the body of a dress or a ren-fest 
bodice. Smaller than that and it goes in a box which I push off on 
someone else for crafting, doll clothes, or simply throw away.  Mostly 
it gets used as a cat bed. :)

Anything larger than half a yard has usually been purchased with a 
specific project in mind and there is enough for the jerkin, doublet or 
skirt in the piece. I started labeling the yardage so I can tell at a 
glance what I've got.




Dawn

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From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I was allowed to show my headdress after all, not the pattern til later, but you can get an idea how it looks like in shape!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm
I have started the pearl decoration, and it gets quite heavy, so i have interlined with a heavy linnen. Its freshwater pearls and gold pearl purl, gold spangels for decoration...........

Bjarne
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Piecework Mongolian



----- Original Message ----
From: "00217146@bigred.unl.edu" <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 2:05:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself=A0 =

wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.=A0 I have a bunch=A0 =

of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.=A0 I have tons of linen=A0 =

off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a=A0 =

paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be=A0 =

flatlined.=A0 I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many=A0 =

trips to the local Pendleton outlet.=A0 I have no idea what to do with=A0 =

it all.

I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of=A0 =

fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the=A0 =

fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century=A0 =

inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I=A0 =

haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often.

Curious what others do,
Emma

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      =

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        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:26:26 +0000
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Oh, this is too much fun! 

I make pouches for small bits of sewing gear out of pieces as small as 2" x 4". Also, pincushions and needlebooks -- wool is very kind to the steel, so I stuff with wool or use wool felt if I don't have scrap flannel for the pages. I've started lining and fitting boxes with pretty velvet and brocade scraps, and then once they're fitted out, of course THEY need a little drawstring bag to protect them.

Er, I also make drawstring bags for my modern stuff, like the GPS and the iPod. Helps to disguise them if they should stray into a re-enacting event, too.

Bigger pieces make lovely drawstring workbags. It is great to have multiple workbags, so I can have one for each unfinished project.  

Fancier pouches are nice, too, and a nice way to show off really lovely scraps.

Hats. 

Doll clothes. 

I am planning to make mitts from an old silk half-slip and from some linen off-cuts. This requires enough fabric to cut the mitts on the bias, and these mitts are 18th C (I don't know if they were worn in other periods.)

Pieced, sewn hose. 

Gussets. 

Aprons. At least in 18th C there's a rumor of wool aprons, which would indeed be great for hearth-cooking. A number of my linen aprons are pieced from off-cuts.

Since I do 18th C, anything a yard square or bigger can be hemmed for a neck-handkerchief.

A lot of my linen scraps end up being employed as bands and ties and things to try to restrain my hair under caps and wigs (it's growing out but still needs some help.) I keep meaning to make some coifs for this purpose; I wear a nice big linen headrail when I'm medieval, but it's nice to have something tied down underneath to pin it to. 

Napkins, cozies, towels, coasters, hot-grabbers (period and otherwise.) 

Did I mention drawstring bags? I make scraps in drawstring bags for tableware, too. 

Basket-covers. Nearly every woman I know who does any kind of historical playing uses a basket to stand in for a handbag; at minimum it's nice to have a piece of fabric to throw over the contents. I keep meaning to make some bags fitted to the interior of the basket so I can easily shift contents. 

OK. Back to work...
Lauren


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu 

> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself 
> wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. I have a bunch 
> of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples. I have tons of linen 
> off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a 
> paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be 
> flatlined. I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many 
> trips to the local Pendleton outlet. I have no idea what to do with 
> it all. 
> 
> I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of 
> fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the 
> fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century 
> inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics. 
> 
> Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size: 
> 
> Doublet, for myself or my husband 
> Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool) 
> Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate) 
> Coif/caul 
> flatlining for pickadills (linen only) 
> 
> I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I 
> haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often. 
> 
> Curious what others do, 
> Emma 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, this is too much fun! 

I make pouches for small bits of sewing gear out of pieces as small as 2" x 4". Also, pincushions and needlebooks -- wool is very kind to the steel, so I stuff with wool or use wool felt if I don't have scrap flannel for the pages. I've started lining and fitting boxes with pretty velvet and brocade scraps, and then once they're fitted out, of course THEY need a little drawstring bag to protect them.

Er, I also make drawstring bags for my modern stuff, like the GPS and the iPod. Helps to disguise them if they should stray into a re-enacting event, too.

Bigger pieces make lovely drawstring workbags. It is great to have multiple workbags, so I can have one for each unfinished project.  

Fancier pouches are nice, too, and a nice way to show off really lovely scraps.

Hats. 

Doll clothes. 

I am planning to make mitts from an old silk half-slip and from some linen off-cuts. This requires enough fabric to cut the mitts on the bias, and these mitts are 18th C (I don't know if they were worn in other periods.)

Pieced, sewn hose. 

Gussets. 

Aprons. At least in 18th C there's a rumor of wool aprons, which would indeed be great for hearth-cooking. A number of my linen aprons are pieced from off-cuts.

Since I do 18th C, anything a yard square or bigger can be hemmed for a neck-handkerchief.

A lot of my linen scraps end up being employed as bands and ties and things to try to restrain my hair under caps and wigs (it's growing out but still needs some help.) I keep meaning to make some coifs for this purpose; I wear a nice big linen headrail when I'm medieval, but it's nice to have something tied down underneath to pin it to. 

Napkins, cozies, towels, coasters, hot-grabbers (period and otherwise.) 

Did I mention drawstring bags? I make scraps in drawstring bags for tableware, too. 

Basket-covers. Nearly every woman I know who does any kind of historical playing uses a basket to stand in for a handbag; at minimum it's nice to have a piece of fabric to throw over the contents. I keep meaning to make some bags fitted to the interior of the basket so I can easily shift contents. 

OK. Back to work...
Lauren


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu 

> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself 
> wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. I have a bunch 
> of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples. I have tons of linen 
> off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a 
> paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be 
> flatlined. I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many 
> trips to the local Pendleton outlet. I have no idea what to do with 
> it all. 
> 
> I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of 
> fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the 
> fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century 
> inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics. 
> 
> Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size: 
> 
> Doublet, for myself or my husband 
> Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool) 
> Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate) 
> Coif/caul 
> flatlining for pickadills (linen only) 
> 
> I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I 
> haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often. 
> 
> Curious what others do, 
> Emma 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling. Someone
picked them up whose daughter was in a Costume program at college, so they
got used or passed on successfully, but got out of my house. I don't have
the room for storage that some people do, so I can't keep every piece that I
can say *but I can still use this!* about. I'll never ever make everything I
could. I'll never even make all those handkerchiefs and placemats I've sworn
I could make with this or that. And quilting is just not me.

Of course, once I had reclaimed all that space, I had plenty of space for
new fabric. It's a terrible circle. :()

MaggiRos

On Wed, Jul 23, 2008 at 12:05 PM, <00217146@bigred.unl.edu> wrote:

> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself
> wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a bunch of
> high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have tons of linen off-cuts
> (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a paper-making friend),
> since everything I make these days seems to be flatlined.  I have a good
> amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many trips to the local Pendleton
> outlet.  I have no idea what to do with it all.
>
> I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric.
> I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are
> brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd love
> to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.
>
> Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:
>
> Doublet, for myself or my husband
> Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
> Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
> Coif/caul
> flatlining for pickadills (linen only)
>
> I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I haven't
> made enough of them to say that I do it often.
>
>


-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
and your favorite bookseller
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Well, depending on what it is and how big it is--

charcloth
trim
pieced hose
pouches
pin holders (I have lots of scraps of wool melton full of pins)
patches
hoods
more pouches
shoes
coifs

Otherwise it goes into the Bin Of Useful Fabric to donate to someone else, 
or into the bin for my Fibers 101 class whereof it gets set on fire to 
teach burn testing.

Jen/pixel/Margaret
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> I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling.

You can also cut them in strips (or a very long spiral) and knit or
crochet with them.
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I use small pieces of strong brocades and damasks for corsets and vests. 
  I love brocaded corsets no matter what era they are for, and no I am 
not going to get all agitated about whether coutil is more "authentic" 
for some eras. I'm not displaying my corsets in public anyway.  Odd bits 
of lace, silk, velvet, and junk jewelry are very useful for trimming 
hats.   I use cotton lace appliques and bits, and leftovers of fabric, 
to patch antique clothes, replace waistbands, etc. I use leftover pieces 
of cottons to make fitting muslins. I don't care if they are all the 
same material, as long as they are all the same weight and there is 
enough to cut one garment section.

However, a few years ago I found that, over a period of many years, I 
had accumulated a bunch of tiny upholstery fabric samples and fabric 
leftovers that I just could not find any way to use. I packed them into 
a couple of big boxes and gave them to an acquaintance who quilts. She 
said she could use the cottons for patchwork quilts and the brocades, 
velvets, etc. for crazy quilts.  The next time I saw her, she was 
hand-sewing together some of my cotton bits into a quilt block.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> 
> I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric. 
> I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are 
> brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd 
> love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

<snip>
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Or turn them into rag rugs.

Fran

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>> I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling.
> 
> You can also cut them in strips (or a very long spiral) and knit or
> crochet with them.
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In a message dated 7/23/2008 3:06:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:

I'm  curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric.  


****************************
 
There's nothing like catching a glimpse of some lining/facing.... inside a  
sleeve, under a peplum, or at an open neck...made of an expensive beautiful  
fabric. This is why I will save pieces even 1/2 a yard and less if it's  
fabulous.



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
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Depends what it is and how much there is.
 
Half a metre or more isn't an offcut, so that stays in the scraps box(es)  to 
be used for corsets, etc.
 
Smaller pieces of nice linens (pretty colours or patterns) goes into the  
trimming linen drawers - likewise with silks - they're used for things like  
edging of tunics and corsets, or facing pocket flaps, or making buttons.
 
Occasionally larger pieces that I'm really never going to use get  ebayed.
 
Other stuff gets put into bin bags and given away to whomever wants it and  
is willing to collect it (bin liners full are a bit tricky to carry on the  
bus!)  - often schools and brownies and charity groups - for crafty  stuff.
 
D
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 23/07/2008 21:28:05 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I've  been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself   
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a  bunch  
of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have  tons of linen  
off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny  bits to a  
paper-making friend), since everything I make these days  seems to be  
flatlined.  I have a good amount of wool in odd  sizes, thanks to many  
trips to the local Pendleton outlet.  I  have no idea what to do with  
it all.

I'm curious how other  people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm  looking to steal ideas. Since most of the  
fabrics are brocades and  damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century  
inclination. I'd love to see  uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Here's my breakdown, in  descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my  husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves  (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining  for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between  sleeves and caul, though I  
haven't made enough of them to say that I  do it often.

Curious what others  do,
Emma







   
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> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  ...

>I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Emma,
I'm a quilter when I'm not a costumer or a miliner.  Cotton quilts,
wool scrap over the back of the couch quilts, silk crazy quilts... if
it's too small for a hat lining.  I'm working on quilt #43 now.  For
some reason, all the linen gets used up. so no linen quilts.

Fun question!
--cin
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Subject: [h-cost] odd outfit
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http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547
At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?

De
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Adding to the list,
cloth covered buttons,

removable sleeves,
http://tinyurl.com/282tcs
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/BordoneBambino.jpg

Italian patchwork sleeves,
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Licinio1524.JPG
http://tinyurl.com/6e5k7m

Landesknecht,(like hosen)
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._026.jpg

as was suggested, trim
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/IsottaBrembatiGrumelli.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/6mxzq2

forepart
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Lavinia1560.jpg

dress
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Lorenzo_Lotto_046.jpg

If is the Society for Creative Anachronism, there is always pouches needed
for largess.

De

-----Original Message-----
Well, depending on what it is and how big it is--

charcloth
trim
pieced hose
pouches
pin holders (I have lots of scraps of wool melton full of pins)
patches
hoods
more pouches
shoes
coifs
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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  Looks like one to me too - the "I Am A Queen" sort, complete with ermine
and a cloak to match.
   Catherine's pretty popular.  A quick google image search also shows her
in an Italian gown, a couple more variations on a sideless, a couple
variations on Ye Olde Tyme Robes, and a Carravaggio where she looks like
she's about to go "wench" at the Renn Faire....

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 4:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] odd outfit

http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547
At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?

De


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otsisto wrote:
> http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547
> At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
> Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
> Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?

She is wearing a fantasy creation that combines the most recognizable elements 
of the sideless surcote (which was traditionally used for St. Catherine but is 
by now a century out of date) with a hodgepodge of elements of more recent 
styles. The dress most definitely never existed.

This one will have to go into my collection of "weird Catherines." I have a 
lot of those.

The same artist did multiple Catherines. Compare the Minneapolis example with 
this one at the Philadelphia Museum of art, likely painted a decade or more 
earlier:
http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/102091.html?mulR=26001
He did a lot of other paintings of female saints, too -- it was a specialty of 
his, apparently -- and I'm sure he mixed and matched elements repeatedly.

--Robin





-- 

Robin Netherton
Editor at Large
robin@netherton.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Subject: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming
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> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and
> have found myself  
> wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful

This is why I have a kid. If it's not clothes for her then toys. A friend gave us a bunch of bean bags made from many different small bits of odd fabric. 

Mary
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-----Original Message-----
otsisto wrote:
> http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547

<She is wearing a fantasy creation that combines the most recognizable
elements of the sideless surcote (which was traditionally used for St.
Catherine but is by now a century out of date) with a hodgepodge of elements
of more recent
styles. The dress most definitely never existed.

This one will have to go into my collection of "weird Catherines." I have a
lot of those.

The same artist did multiple Catherines. Compare the Minneapolis example
with this one at the Philadelphia Museum of art, likely painted a decade or
more earlier:
http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/102091.html?mulR=26001
He did a lot of other paintings of female saints, too -- it was a specialty
of his, apparently -- and I'm sure he mixed and matched elements repeatedly.
--Robin
What threw me off is that the front, because of the "chains"? looks like a
wide front Burgundian. The belt is similar the belts worn with the wide lace
front.
http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html
Scroll down.

De

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otsisto wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> otsisto wrote:
>> http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547
> 
> <She is wearing a fantasy creation that combines the most recognizable
> elements of the sideless surcote (which was traditionally used for St.
> Catherine but is by now a century out of date) with a hodgepodge of elements
> of more recent
> styles. The dress most definitely never existed.
> 
> This one will have to go into my collection of "weird Catherines." I have a
> lot of those.
> 
> The same artist did multiple Catherines. Compare the Minneapolis example
> with this one at the Philadelphia Museum of art, likely painted a decade or
> more earlier:
> http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/102091.html?mulR=26001
> He did a lot of other paintings of female saints, too -- it was a specialty
> of his, apparently -- and I'm sure he mixed and matched elements repeatedly.
> --Robin

> What threw me off is that the front, because of the "chains"? looks like a
> wide front Burgundian. The belt is similar the belts worn with the wide lace
> front.

The wide front opening and the belt are two of the elements the artist picked 
up from contemporary fashion and threw in the blender here. The wide opening 
seems to be used in art of this place/time in certain contexts, such as 
adolescent girls, certain young female saints, and other youthful or 
nubile-seeming females. I wouldn't use this to document the use of the wide 
front opening in routine wear for noblewomen, never mind the combination of 
this front opening with other elements of the dress.

I personally would read the horizontal lines as braided lacing rather than 
chains, but in this context, it could be anything. I'd have to see the 
painting to get a better idea. Again, whatever it is, it is not a reliable 
source for what was actually worn. Basically, when you deal with an image like 
this, by the time you figure out which elements are real (by comparing with 
more reliable sources), you have enough other, better examples in hand.

--Robin

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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 20:30:49 +0200
From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] modest
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest?
In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never 
heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730.

Bjarne

You know I'm sure I've heard the term 'modester' in an English costume
context, but I really can't think where. It just rings bells.

Is it possible the term uses 'mode' in the sense of fashion eg wasn't 
'modiste'
an 18th term for a women's tailor or seamstress?

Claire/Angharad 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood
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Yes, it's been a while since I did work in the Renaissance era. I know it's not a belt but couldn't remember exactly what it was called. It was late and I was tired.
I'm starting back into the era. I'm starting a new garb set for an upcoming Ren Faire event. I'll have to pull out my books and read up on the ins and outs of the period.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: sharon@collierfam.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 01:44:54 -0700> Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood> > Belt part---> Do you mean girdle? Long necklace-like belt that goes around waist and hangs> down center front? > > -----Original Message-----> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On> Behalf Of Kate M Bunting> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:19 AM> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood> > > > Becky Rautine wrote:> > > >Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an> >official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2> >necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't> >think of what !
 it's called right now.> > Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It> was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in> Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too> Catholic.> > Kate Bunting> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,> University of Derby> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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What are the gold parts on your design? It looks ornate so far. Form your past work, it will be magnificant. Keep us posted as to it's completion.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:14:20 +0200> Subject: [h-cost] renaissance headwear> > I was allowed to show my headdress after all, not the pattern til later, but you can get an idea how it looks like in shape!> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm> I have started the pearl decoration, and it gets quite heavy, so i have interlined with a heavy linnen. Its freshwater pearls and gold pearl purl, gold spangels for decoration...........> > Bjarne> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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I looked back at the photos. She is wearing a necklace that lies on her chest, one that hangs from her shoulders and the girdle. The middle one is the one that looks like an office insignia. That's the one I meant. The smaller necklace and the insignia one have S on them.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: sharon@collierfam.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 01:44:54 -0700> Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood> > Belt part---> Do you mean girdle? Long necklace-like belt that goes around waist and hangs> down center front? > > -----Original Message-----> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On> Behalf Of Kate M Bunting> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:19 AM> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood> > > > Becky Rautine wrote:> > > >Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an> >official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the perso!
 n wears 2> >necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't> >think of what it's called right now.> > Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It> was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in> Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too> Catholic.> > Kate Bunting> Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,> University of Derby> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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I don't think it is a sideless due to the conformaty of the front. It wouldn't lie so snug if not held against her breast. I think the light area is the fabric reflecting the light, or just a bad spot in the painting. Paint was mixed one area at a time then and it was easy to have inconsistant color values. They didn't have Sherman Williams to get a gallon of paint the same color. Also I don't think a saint would be allowed to be painted without modesty and respect. Cleavage was fine but not uncovered breasts on a saint.
She is wearing the long sleeves of a shiny material. I'd guess that the side is made of that same material. The side is plain and not as ornate as the front.
On this same image, can anyone tell me the meaning of the stones used during the Byzantine period? I know it has something to do with the Early Christian/Byzantine church being centered in Constantinople/Istanbul. Most everything was steeped in meaning or relation to the area. I did research on this era while in school, but can't remember the specifics of their meaning. Later times copied the Byzantine styles for elegance and luxury in the use of jewels.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: otsisto@socket.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:50:10 -0500> Subject: [h-cost] odd outfit> > http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12&id=547> At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.> Click on the picture to get to the zoom.> Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?> > De> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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You could make little juggling balls, too.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Mary
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 9:57 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

> I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and
> have found myself
> wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful

This is why I have a kid. If it's not clothes for her then toys. A friend gave us a bunch of bean bags made from many different small bits of odd fabric.

Mary
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The neck-handkerchief of 18th-century women's fashion at some point in the 19th began to be called a "modesty piece". The term still gets applied occasionally to a triangle of fabric inserted in a low V neckline to conceal the cleavage. 

Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au> 

> Message: 1 
> Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 20:30:49 +0200 
> From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" 
> Subject: [h-cost] modest 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
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> 
> Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest? 
> In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never 
> heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730. 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> You know I'm sure I've heard the term 'modester' in an English costume 
> context, but I really can't think where. It just rings bells. 
> 
> Is it possible the term uses 'mode' in the sense of fashion eg wasn't 
> 'modiste' 
> an 18th term for a women's tailor or seamstress? 
> 
> Claire/Angharad 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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The neck-handkerchief of 18th-century women's fashion at some point in the 19th began to be called a "modesty piece". The term still gets applied occasionally to a triangle of fabric inserted in a low V neckline to conceal the cleavage. 

Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au> 

> Message: 1 
> Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 20:30:49 +0200 
> From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" 
> Subject: [h-cost] modest 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Message-ID: <001201c8ea96$bcd81190$a8e73f50@your4dacd0ea75> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 
> 
> Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest? 
> In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never 
> heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730. 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> You know I'm sure I've heard the term 'modester' in an English costume 
> context, but I really can't think where. It just rings bells. 
> 
> Is it possible the term uses 'mode' in the sense of fashion eg wasn't 
> 'modiste' 
> an 18th term for a women's tailor or seamstress? 
> 
> Claire/Angharad 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] odd outfit
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Becky Rautine wrote:
> I don't think it is a sideless due to the conformaty of the front. It wouldn't lie so snug if not held against her breast. I think the light area is the fabric reflecting the light, or just a bad spot in the painting. Paint was mixed one area at a time then and it was easy to have inconsistant color values. They didn't have Sherman Williams to get a gallon of paint the same color. Also I don't think a saint would be allowed to be painted without modesty and respect. Cleavage was fine but not uncovered breasts on a saint.

De wasn't suggesting there was no fabric on the sides, or that any skin was 
showing. By "sideless," she was using a shorthand term for "sideless surcote," 
which was a style of overdress rather like an (American) jumper dress, with 
large armholes that reveal a separate dress, typically close-fitted, worn 
beneath it. If this were a real sideless surcote, that would have been the 
underdress showing at the sides. It's clear that the sleeves and the sides are 
of the same fabric.

In this case, as De recognized, this was not a normal sideless surcote. The 
artist used the contemporary style of a front-opening gown and tweaked it 
visually to evoke the recognizable and distinctive lines of the sideless 
surcote, which was tightly associated with Catherine's iconographic 
representation at that time. The resulting (nonexistent) garment makes no 
sense from a construction standpoint (the layering gets all fouled up, and 
it's not clear what parts would be underdress, overdress, or all the same 
layer), but the image has the visual cues that signal "Catherine."

(Can't help you on the Byzantine jewels, sorry, but you might want to post 
that question separately under a new subject line.)

--Robin


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  Just as an aside, you can't count on no nekkidness for saints - there are
a number of images of the Virgin in the western tradition in which one
breast is bared, a couple of Mary Magdalene in which she wears little more
than hair (and she's always red-headed!) and a couple of the early virgin
saints offering their severed breasts on a platter.
   As a contrast, in classic eastern iconography, the only female saint I
can think of whose hair even SHOWS is Mary of Egypt,  who repented her sins
and ran away into the desert, where she lived naked for 20? 50? years.

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Becky Rautine
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 5:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] odd outfit

<<<<<snippage>>>>>>
paint the same color. Also I don't think a saint would be allowed to be
painted without modesty and respect. Cleavage was fine but not uncovered
breasts on a saint.
She is wearing the long sleeves of a shiny material. I'd guess that the side
is made of that same material. The side is plain and not as ornate as the
front.
On this same image, can anyone tell me the meaning of the stones used during
the Byzantine period? I know it has something to do with the Early
Christian/Byzantine church being centered in Constantinople/Istanbul. Most
everything was steeped in meaning or relation to the area. I did research on
this era while in school, but can't remember the specifics of their meaning.
Later times copied the Byzantine styles for elegance and luxury in the use
of jewels.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: otsisto@socket.net> To:
h-costume@indra.com> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:50:10 -

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Robin wrote "...visually to evoke the recognizable and distinctive lines of
the sideless surcote, which was tightly associated with Catherine's
iconographic representation at that time. ...the image has the visual cues
that signal "Catherine."
  
What are the associated images/icons for Catherine for this time period?  I
was thinking Byzantine Catherine.  Is this the same St. Catherine, or is
this a different saint?

Joan

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Joan Mielke wrote:
> Robin wrote "...visually to evoke the recognizable and distinctive lines of
> the sideless surcote, which was tightly associated with Catherine's
> iconographic representation at that time. ...the image has the visual cues
> that signal "Catherine."
>   
> What are the associated images/icons for Catherine for this time period?  I
> was thinking Byzantine Catherine.  Is this the same St. Catherine, or is
> this a different saint?

Catherine of Alexandria, probably the third most popular female saint of the 
Middle Ages (after the Virgin and Mary Magdalene). I do not know about 
Byzantine iconography, which tends to differ from Western Christian, but in 
Western art she is typically shown with a crown and/or a wheel and/or a sword. 
The wheel was the instrument with which she was tortured, and the sword her 
means of martyrdom. As a martyr, she might carry a palm frond. As a virgin 
martyr and princess, she typically has her hair down and is dressed richly, as 
a queen. She might also be trampling a certain pagan king underfoot.

Some later artists conflated her image with that of Catherine of Siena, and 
thus show Catherine of Alexandria in the "mystic marriage" that is part of 
Catherine of Siena's legend.

--Robin
collector of Catherines

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  In Byz iconography, she is usually shown in a very ornate Byzantine robe
and crowned, much bejeweled, holding a cross (the Orthodox symbol of
martyrdom).  The wheel/sword is not often shown in classic icons.  Her hair
is usually "properly" <G> covered (you'll see very very little hair on Byz
female saints), though she often wears it in a crispine-type net instead of
under a veil.

Liadain


THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 2:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Odd outfit

Joan Mielke wrote:
> Robin wrote "...visually to evoke the recognizable and distinctive lines
of
> the sideless surcote, which was tightly associated with Catherine's
> iconographic representation at that time. ...the image has the visual cues
> that signal "Catherine."
>   
> What are the associated images/icons for Catherine for this time period?
I
> was thinking Byzantine Catherine.  Is this the same St. Catherine, or is
> this a different saint?

Catherine of Alexandria, probably the third most popular female saint of the

Middle Ages (after the Virgin and Mary Magdalene). I do not know about 
Byzantine iconography, which tends to differ from Western Christian, but in 
Western art she is typically shown with a crown and/or a wheel and/or a
sword. 
The wheel was the instrument with which she was tortured, and the sword her 
means of martyrdom. As a martyr, she might carry a palm frond. As a virgin 
martyr and princess, she typically has her hair down and is dressed richly,
as 
a queen. She might also be trampling a certain pagan king underfoot.

Some later artists conflated her image with that of Catherine of Siena, and 
thus show Catherine of Alexandria in the "mystic marriage" that is part of 
Catherine of Siena's legend.

--Robin
collector of Catherines

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 17:37:22 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Institute Appointments Update
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Did anyone else get this?

Chiara Francesca


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Koda, Harold [mailto:harold.koda@metmuseum.org]
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:07 AM
> Subject: Costume Institute Appointments Update
> 
> July 24, 2008
> 
> 
> Dear Colleague:
> 
> Since its founding in 1937, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan
> Museum of Art
> has become an invaluable resource of knowledge to a world-wide
> audience.  In pursuing
> our responsibility to ensure its integrity and preservation for future
> generations, the
> Museum is commencing a detailed survey of the Collection to address
> conservation
> and storage issues.
> 
> Over the next several years until this project is completed,
> appointments in our
> Collection, Conservation, and Library will be limited. In addition,
> while all current
> loan commitments will be fulfilled, a temporary moratorium on loans
> will begin as
> of July 2008.
> 
> We regret any inconvenience this may cause.  Qualified researchers are
> encouraged
> to explore the resources of New York City's other costume institutions
> and libraries including the Metropolitan Museum's Thomas J. Watson
> Library.
> 
> If you have any questions we will be pleased to advise you.  Please
> contact us at
> 212-570-3908. We appreciate your support of what we know will result in
> our ability
> to better serve you and the public at large in the future.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Harold Koda
> Curator in Charge
> The Costume Institute
> 


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It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. Anyone
else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something.

MaggiRos

___
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sounds like a plan. We've done that before. I'm also going to wear my GBACG
pin and my CGW ribbon. You'll barely be able to see my name on the nametag.

I know of several people from Northern California and the GBACG who will
attend.

See ya thereQ
LynnD

On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 7:20 PM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:

> It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. Anyone
> else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something.
>
> MaggiRos
>
> ___
> Maggie Secara
> ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
> ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
> http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Maggie wrote:
| It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. 
Anyone
| else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something.
<delurking>
I'll be there.
<relurking>

Kathleen
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 11:38:24 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Gen Con in Indy (was: Costume College)
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Hve fun at College, ladies!
Gen Con happens the week after.  Is anyone going besides Dawn & I?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Subject: [h-cost] Costume College
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>        <f7bcb0f20807241920l5b8c7a6ck26f9ffd2526fba1f@mail.gmail.com>
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>
> It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. Anyone
> else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something.
>
> MaggiRos
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I can be found assisting with the "Overview of Gaelic Clothing"  class given
by Steven Gillan, and, right after in the same room, teaching "What is on
Your Head? Irish Headdresses in the 16th Century."

Look for the loon with the "Board Member" ribbon.  Oh, wait, that's the
whole board.  Hmmmm....

Regina in L.A.


* Message: 6
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 19:20:24 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Costume College
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:
       <f7bcb0f20807241920l5b8c7a6ck26f9ffd2526fba1f@mail.gmail.com**>
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It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. Anyone
else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something.

MaggiRos

___
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
*
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events
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Ladies & Gents,
H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
directly: What's to do in Amsterdam & nearby?

I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
wearable stuff: castles, living history events.

My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.

If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
of town are also accessible.

Got any great suggestions?
Got any "out there" suggestions?
Thanks for the help,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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I've been contacted by a person who wants a tunic-style male jester's 
costume. If anyone on the list is interested in talking to this paying 
customer, please reply to me privately.


Dawn


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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 22:45:40 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events
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At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
>Ladies & Gents,
>H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
>directly: What's to do in Amsterdam & nearby?
>
>I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
>after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
>extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
>costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
>including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
>wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
>
>My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
>the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
>wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
>
>If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
>10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
>of town are also accessible.
>
>Got any great suggestions?
>Got any "out there" suggestions?
>Thanks for the help,
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself 
is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people 
travel by bike or by tram(?).

The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I 
saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo, 
and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.

(And of course there is the "Red Light" district, but I think they 
have toned down the area!)

Best I can do, I'm afraid.

Suzi 

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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 15:22:10 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Compendium for everyone
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Well for Canadians at least. You can now buy A Compendium of Common
Knowledge 1558-1603 at
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108/
Huzzah!

US readers are better off going to Barnesandnoble.com where they actually
are stocking the title, while at amazon.com (although it has the best review
:) still says Out Of Stock.  It's also on the amazon pages in the UK,
Germany, France and even Japan (!) but they still say it's out of stock. I'm
going to look into that this week.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion.,

MaggiRos
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 19:05:41 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events
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The  Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both must-see
places in Amseredam. Also-- anyplace that sells chocolate and baked goods.
However, beware of the damage to your waistline!

Oh, yes, drugs are legal there, so be careful of where you bring children.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 5:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events


At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
>Ladies & Gents,
>H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
>directly: What's to do in Amsterdam & nearby?
>
>I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
>after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
>extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
>costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
>including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
>wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
>
>My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
>the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
>wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
>
>If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
>10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
>of town are also accessible.
>
>Got any great suggestions?
>Got any "out there" suggestions?
>Thanks for the help,
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself
is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people
travel by bike or by tram(?).

The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I
saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo,
and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.

(And of course there is the "Red Light" district, but I think they
have toned down the area!)

Best I can do, I'm afraid.

Suzi

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Read this book http://www.randomhouse.com/vintage/dunnett/niccolo/rising.html
and take a trip to Brugge.  It takes place there, and if you love historical fiction (and lots of characters and plot twists) you'll love it.
There is a description of how the locks work (in the canals) and you can actually go there and see it take place...I there are some windmills there too.

Brugge is cool just by itself, but also the home and chapel of Anselm Adorne is open to the public - beautiful and very interesting.   Right next door is a lace museum.  

Sg


> 
> 
> At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
> >Ladies & Gents,
> >H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
> >directly: What's to do in Amsterdam & nearby?
> >
> >I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
> >after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
> >extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
> >costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
> >including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
> >wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
> >
> >My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
> >the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
> >wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
> >
> >If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
> >10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
> >of town are also accessible.
> >
> >Got any great suggestions?
> >Got any "out there" suggestions?
> >Thanks for the help,
> >--cin
> >Cynthia Barnes
> >CinBarnes@gmail.com
> 
> It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself
> is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people
> travel by bike or by tram(?).
> 
> The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I
> saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo,
> and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.
> 
> (And of course there is the "Red Light" district, but I think they
> have toned down the area!)
> 
> Best I can do, I'm afraid.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Read this book http://www.randomhouse.com/vintage/dunnett/niccolo/rising.html
> and take a trip to Brugge. 

I love Brugge (Bruges) and would go back in an instant. I spent 10 days based 
there, and did five day-trips by train in that time (to Mechelen, Ghent, 
Antwerp, Brussels, and Tournai). I did not run out of things to see; I barely 
scratched the surface. It is a great place for a medievalist; you can't throw 
a rock without hitting something that's five centuries old.

However, I wouldn't characterize Bruges as being a day trip from Amsterdam. 
Mapquest puts it at almost 3 hours by car.

There's a lot of the Netherlands closer in that would justify a stop, 
including Dordrecht, 60 miles by road. (Dordrecht is home to Henk, a longtime 
h-cost member who is not on the list now, but would surely remember those who 
were around when he was, and perhaps could offer ideas if you write him 
directly.) Delft is only 40 miles from Amsterdam by road, and would be a good 
place to go if you are interested in Vermeer and his period. Haarlem is 
practically a suburb of Amsterdam at 12 miles.

I think I would not have any trouble finding things to do in and around 
Amsterdam for a week or three! I cannot offer recommendations, though, as I 
have not had the opportunity and hope I will before I die, if only the dollar 
would get stronger.

--Robin
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It's been many, many years, but I loved the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.
To this day, most of my favorite artworks are pieces that I saw there.

For whatever it's worth.

Laurie T.
Phoenix

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 2:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events

At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
>Ladies & Gents,
>H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
>directly: What's to do in Amsterdam & nearby?
>
>I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
>after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
>extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
>costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
>including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
>wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
>
>My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
>the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
>wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
>
>If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
>10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
>of town are also accessible.
>
>Got any great suggestions?
>Got any "out there" suggestions?
>Thanks for the help,
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself 
is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people 
travel by bike or by tram(?).

The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I 
saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo, 
and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.

(And of course there is the "Red Light" district, but I think they 
have toned down the area!)

Best I can do, I'm afraid.

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gen Con in Indy (was: Costume College)
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> Hve fun at College, ladies!
> Gen Con happens the week after.  Is anyone going besides Dawn & I?
> --cin

I'm going -- running 5 games, plus probably some demos over at the
Cryptic Studios/Hero Games booth.

No idea if I'll have time to get together with anyone.  With the
convention center remodeling, my games are scattered around downtown
Indy.  And if I'm not on demo duty, I may head back to the hotel after my
games.  Due to things hitting the proverbial fan, I'm staying out by the
airport and driving in each day; if I can't get downtown early enough for
a cheap parking spot I'll want to get out of the expensive one ASAP.

Leah
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On Jul 26, 2008, at 4:05 PM, monica spence wrote:

> The  Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both  
> must-see
> places in Amseredam. Also-- anyplace that sells chocolate and baked  
> goods.
> However, beware of the damage to your waistline!


Is the Rijksmuseum open again yet? Most of it (like 90%) was shut  
down for renovation when I was there in March. All they have open is  
one wing with a "highlights of the collection" exhibit, which I  
didn't bother with because I want to go back  sometime when I can see  
more.
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Isnt there also the Historical Museum in Amsterdam?
I think i remember someone from h-costume posting pictures from the costumes 
exhibited there, about a year ago, was it Deredere? There was pictures of a 
gorgeous 1780 dress embroidered !

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events


>
> On Jul 26, 2008, at 4:05 PM, monica spence wrote:
>
>> The  Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both 
>> must-see
>> places in Amseredam. Also-- anyplace that sells chocolate and baked 
>> goods.
>> However, beware of the damage to your waistline!
>
>
> Is the Rijksmuseum open again yet? Most of it (like 90%) was shut  down 
> for renovation when I was there in March. All they have open is  one wing 
> with a "highlights of the collection" exhibit, which I  didn't bother with 
> because I want to go back  sometime when I can see  more.
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a bel????? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in any painting.
http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian96.html
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor29.htmlSincerely, Rebecca Rautine
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] things to do near Amsterdam
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It's been, um, almost 20 years since we lived in Amsterdam... but  
FWIW my family really liked the outdoor museum at Enkhuizen.  Think  
living history farms, except it's the everyday lives of 19th C.  
fisher folk instead of farmers.  :-)  Good costume content, too.  We  
day-tripped it by train, IIRC.  There's also a nice art museum in The  
Hague but my feeble brain no longer remembers the name of it.
There used to be a couple of preserved windmills in one [or more?] of  
the Amsterdam city parks, and be sure to take a bike ride through  
Amstel Park and go eat pancakes at the famous pancake house...  
assuming it's still there!
Enviously,
Suzanne

On Jul 27, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
> after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
> extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
> costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
> including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
> wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
>
> My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
> the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
> wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
>
> If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
> 10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
> of town are also accessible.
>
> Got any great suggestions?
> Got any "out there" suggestions?
> Thanks for the help,
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Hi Becky, it's a Balzo or Capigliara. Here is a great page about/how-to:
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm

=A0Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.net



----- Original Message ----
From: Becky Rautine zeartiste@hotmail.com
Subject: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat


I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian ha=
t, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a b=
el????? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in a=
ny painting.<<<<<<



      Find a better answer, faster with the new Yahoo!7 Search. www.yahoo7.=
com.au/search
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I'm quite fond of Zaanse Schans, which I believe you can drive to in about an hour, depending on traffic. Yes, it's awfully touristy, but if you're a mech-e-geek, and if it's open, there's a windmill that you can climb inside of (the one for grinding paints). It's not handicap friendly, and keep an eye on the little ones, or they may end up under the millwheel.  It was going full-bore last time I was there, and it was darn neat watching the gears and shafts turn. It creaked like a tallship under sail (which it definitely resembles). Scratch the kitty's head at the ticket counter.

Costume content: they make and wear clogs in traditional fashion. I think some of the docents and employees also wear traditional costumes.

Do check what parts of the Rijksmuseum are open. They've been renovating there for umpteen years, and you'd think they'd be done by now? Also check what they have on display. When I was there, uh, maybe 7 years ago, they had a small wing devoted to 18th century court gowns and lace.



Claudine
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It is called a Balzo. You can find info at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm

http://mariwashere.com/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=26

http://www.sword.net/jessica/firenze/Early15thCenturyBalzo.pdf


Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Becky Rautine
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 4:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat



I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian
hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a
bel????? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in
any painting.
http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian96.html
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor29.htmlSincerely,
Rebecca Rautine
_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm
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From: Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 00:34:06 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat
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Thank you. I recently saw The Taming of the Shrew and wondered about her head dresses and hair arrangements. I thought they were beautiful so I paused the film over and over to sketch the wedding dress, hair and all, then the complete set she wore at her sister's wedding. That wire thingy must have taken a lot of time to weave in and out and around in those angles. I'd love one like that. It's crown like but still a head garment. For my purposes, it doesn't matter if its authentic period. I think I'll make one to go with a gown I'm creating. Don't know all the stages yet but going to be maroon and gold, light ivory and black designs on the front. Maybe a blackwork chemise with blooming sleeves to show off the blackwork. I love embroidry so it may have lots of hidden little things only I'll know about. If I get to the sketch stage with final decisions, I'll post it.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 14:24:18 -0700> From: bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au> To:!
  h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat> > Hi Becky, it's a Balzo or Capigliara. Here is a great page about/how-to:> http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm> >  Bella> The Realm of Venus> http://realmofvenus.net> > > > ----- Original Message ----> From: Becky Rautine zeartiste@hotmail.com> Subject: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat> > > I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a bel????? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in any painting.<<<<<<> > > > Find a better answer, faster with the new Yahoo!7 Search. www.yahoo7.com.au/search> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] things to do near Amsterdam
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There=B4s also a place called "Archeon" in the =

Netherlands. They have reconstructed medieval, =

prehistoric and roman buildings and people in =

matching period clothes live and work in them. =

There is a similar medieval town in Nyk=F6bing in =

Denmark and I try to get there once every summer =

because it=B4s so beautiful and interesting. But I =

have a late 14th century SCA-Persona, so I might be a bit biased. :-)
(OT: If you go into a supermarket, buy some =

"Chocolade pasta puur". It=B4s like German =

"Nutella", but without nuts and not as sweet and very good.)
I went to Amsterdam some years ago for work so I =

didn=B4t get to do much sightseeing but strolled =

around the town along the Grachten and looked at the beautiful houses.
Best wishes,
Hanna

At 22:59 27.07.2008, you wrote:
>It's been, um, almost 20 years since we lived in Amsterdam... but
>FWIW my family really liked the outdoor museum at Enkhuizen.  Think
>living history farms, except it's the everyday lives of 19th C.
>fisher folk instead of farmers.  :-)  Good costume content, too.  We
>day-tripped it by train, IIRC.  There's also a nice art museum in The
>Hague but my feeble brain no longer remembers the name of it.
>There used to be a couple of preserved windmills in one [or more?] of
>the Amsterdam city parks, and be sure to take a bike ride through
>Amstel Park and go eat pancakes at the famous pancake house...
>assuming it's still there!
>Enviously,
>Suzanne
>
>On Jul 27, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>>I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
>>after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
>>extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
>>costuming, social dance & history from the early Renn up to and
>>including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
>>wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
>>
>>My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law & I are all engineers and some of
>>the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
>>wind mill works, science & tech museums are good fun.
>>
>>If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
>>10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
>>of town are also accessible.
>>
>>Got any great suggestions?
>>Got any "out there" suggestions?
>>Thanks for the help,
>>--cin
>>Cynthia Barnes
>>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat
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http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0061407/mediaindex
http://peppermintkisskiss.com/images/tfaustus.jpg
some pictures.

Perhaps the chemise/camicia could have a blend of black, maroon and gold
embrodery.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you. I recently saw The Taming of the Shrew and wondered about her
head dresses and hair arrangements. I thought they were beautiful so I
paused the film over and over to sketch the wedding dress, hair and all,
then the complete set she wore at her sister's wedding. That wire thingy
must have taken a lot of time to weave in and out and around in those
angles. I'd love one like that. It's crown like but still a head garment.
For my purposes, it doesn't matter if its authentic period. I think I'll
make one to go with a gown I'm creating. Don't know all the stages yet but
going to be maroon and gold, light ivory and black designs on the front.
Maybe a blackwork chemise with blooming sleeves to show off the blackwork. I
love embroidry so it may have lots of hidden little things only I'll know
about. If I get to the sketch stage with final decisions, I'll post
it.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>


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I'll be presenting a day of historic costume lectures this Saturday  
as a benefit for the Vallejo Music Theatre -- see details below.  I  
know there are a number of other distractions for area costumers this  
weekend but there's always going to be _something_ conflicting with  
_anything_.   The material is mostly coming out of my work cataloging  
surviving pre-modern garments (plus a bit of Welsh stuff thrown in  
for leavening).  So if you happen to be in the area at loose ends,  
I'd love to see a good turnout for the theater's sake.

Heather Rose Jones

>> On August 2, 2008 Vallejo Music Theatre will host an all day class  
>> at 823 Marin St in Vallejo. Our theme is "Early European Costume  
>> Research from Existing Garments". Doors will open at 9:30am and  
>> begin with registration and coffee.  Tickets can be purchased by  
>> going to our website vallejomusictheatre.org or by calling Vallejo  
>> Music Theatre at 707-649-2787. The price of $45.00 includes lunch  
>> and refreshments.
>>
>> Our classes are:
>> #1:  Researching Costume from Surviving Garments:  From the Iceman  
>> to Charles the Bold,
>> #2:  The Genealogy of Clothing Construction: Stylistic Changes  
>> Across Time and Space - handout included
>> #3:  Medieval Welsh Costume: Researching Less-Documented Cultures  
>> - booklet available for sale
>>
>> Our program includes morning coffee and pastries, lunch (after the  
>> first program) hosted by Georgia Street Grill, 314 Georgia Street,  
>> Vallejo and a dessert, coffee and conversation finale.
>>
>> Our presenter is Heather Rose Jones.
>>
>> Heather was born into an academic family, she has lived at various  
>> times in three of the four corners of the continental US as well  
>> as three European countries and now currently resides in the SF  
>> Bay Area. She has a BS in zoology and spent a decade in medical  
>> research. Later she went back to school for a PhD in linguistics  
>> (specializing in Medieval Welsh prepositions). She currently works  
>> in the biotech field in various capacities.
>>
>> As a member of the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA), where  
>> she is know as Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn.  She loves to  
>> share her knowledge with anyone who will stand still long enough  
>> to listen. She is also an author and has several publications on  
>> language, historic clothing and Wales. The SCA has been an outlet  
>> for any number of her historic interests, although she has some  
>> seriously academic outlets as well. Research and teaching are  
>> great passions in her life.
>>
>> This is the second event showcasing historic clothing. Last year  
>> Vallejo MUsic Theatre hosted the authors of "The Tudor Tailor".
>>
>>
>

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From: Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:34:06 +0100
Thread-Topic: [ h-cost ]Looking for Amsterdam museums & events 
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Monica Spence wrote:

>The  Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both must->see places in Amseredam.

And, if you're a Rembrandt fan, there is his own house too (though it's more than 30 years since I was there...).

Kate
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Of course the title should really "What ON EARTH Have You Got on Your Head?
Take that off at once!" But Regina is much too nice to say that.

On Fri, Jul 25, 2008 at 6:53 PM, Regina Voorhes <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I can be found assisting with the "Overview of Gaelic Clothing"  class
> given
> by Steven Gillan, and, right after in the same room, teaching "What is on
> Your Head? Irish Headdresses in the 16th Century."
>
> Look for the loon with the "Board Member" ribbon.  Oh, wait, that's the
> whole board.  Hmmmm....
>

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
CANADIAN readers take note! Now available at amazon.ca
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108

For that matter US readers are free to order from Canada too, since
amazon.com says it's out of stock.
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Thank you all, including the ones who replied privately, for all the
wonderful ideas.  Y'all are a wealth of tasty info!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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One other museum is good. The Rijk Museum. It has clothing, furniture and o=
ther day to day items in it.


Namaste =

Robert=A0)0( =


--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums & events
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 1:45 PM

Thank you all, including the ones who replied privately, for all the
wonderful ideas.  Y'all are a wealth of tasty info!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Hi,

I'm solving a little problem, the lining in joined hose in the 15th century in general. Was there any - if yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole hose, how often one could see hose with lining and hose without - and also was there lining in hose in earlier periods? I could only find something in Adrien Harmand's book, but my French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I understand everything...

If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to it by telling me the name of the subject:-)

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Subject: [h-cost] 1920's headwear
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Hello!

I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies 
in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for 
pictures.

I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or 
tiara type headdress.

You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks 
again! :0)


Sheridan P


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From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
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Try this site.

http://www.fashion-era.com/index.htm

Kenet


--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Shane Sheridan Chabot <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> From: Shane Sheridan Chabot <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] 1920's headwear
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 4:46 PM
> Hello!
> 
> I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures
> of 1920's ladies 
> in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a
> favorite source for 
> pictures.
> 
> I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women
> wearing headbands or 
> tiara type headdress.
> 
> You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball
> projects, thanks 
> again! :0)
> 
> 
> Sheridan P
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
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http://www.antiquedress.com/item6279.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6488.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6336.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6348.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item6280.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item3451.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item535.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item535.htm

Hope this helps
De

-----Original Message-----

Hello!

I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies
in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for
pictures.

I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or
tiara type headdress.

You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
again! :0)


Sheridan P



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Dear Sheridan,

Are you looking for pictures of fancy dress as in costumes for costume
parties or as in evening formal wear?

Katy

On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 4:46 PM, Shane Sheridan Chabot
<shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Hello!
>
> I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies
> in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for
> pictures.
>
> I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or
> tiara type headdress.
>
> You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
> again! :0)
>
>
> Sheridan P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat
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Quoting Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com>:

>
> I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like   
> Italian hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of   
> the Shrew. It's a bel????? I can't remember the term and can't seem   
> to find a description in any painting.
> http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian96.html
> http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor29.htmlSincerely,

It's called a Balzo

http://www.geocities.com/curvess2000/my_balzos.htm
http://www.sword.net/jessica/firenze/Early15thCenturyBalzo.pdf
http://mariwashere.com/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=26
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm

Susan/ jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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When I was in high school, we did "Kiss Me, Kate". My friend's aunts did the
costumes and copied the "Shrew" costumes for the leads. They were GORGEOUS.
I believe they made the headdress of wire, covered with masking tape or
fabric tape (for bulk), then painted. Or you could make it out of wicker,
hot melt glued together, then painted (the easy way).

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 12:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0061407/mediaindex
http://peppermintkisskiss.com/images/tfaustus.jpg
some pictures.

Perhaps the chemise/camicia could have a blend of black, maroon and gold
embrodery.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you. I recently saw The Taming of the Shrew and wondered about her
head dresses and hair arrangements. I thought they were beautiful so I
paused the film over and over to sketch the wedding dress, hair and all,
then the complete set she wore at her sister's wedding. That wire thingy
must have taken a lot of time to weave in and out and around in those
angles. I'd love one like that. It's crown like but still a head garment.
For my purposes, it doesn't matter if its authentic period. I think I'll
make one to go with a gown I'm creating. Don't know all the stages yet but
going to be maroon and gold, light ivory and black designs on the front.
Maybe a blackwork chemise with blooming sleeves to show off the blackwork. I
love embroidry so it may have lots of hidden little things only I'll know
about. If I get to the sketch stage with final decisions, I'll post
it.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>


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From: Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
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I saw a chemise that had floral swirls all over it and can't find it now. I thought I'd get a book of patterns and draw my own on the pieces, embroider them and have that as the decoration for the lower skirt as well, Maybe match the chemise and the skirt front???? SOunds like I need to start sketching before I forget what I started to say.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: otsisto@socket.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 02:54:18 -0500> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat> > http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0061407/mediaindex> http://peppermintkisskiss.com/images/tfaustus.jpg> some pictures.> > Perhaps the chemise/camicia could have a blend of black, maroon and gold> embrodery.> > De> > -----Original Message-----> Thank you. I recently saw The Taming of the Shrew and wondered about her> head dresses and hair arrangements. I thought they were beautiful so I> paused the film over and over to sketch the wedding dress, hair and all,> then the complete se!
 t she wore at her sister's wedding. That wire thingy> must have taken a lot of time to weave in and out and around in those> angles. I'd love one like that. It's crown like but still a head garment.> For my purposes, it doesn't matter if its authentic period. I think I'll> make one to go with a gown I'm creating. Don't know all the stages yet but> going to be maroon and gold, light ivory and black designs on the front.> Maybe a blackwork chemise with blooming sleeves to show off the blackwork. I> love embroidry so it may have lots of hidden little things only I'll know> about. If I get to the sketch stage with final decisions, I'll post> it.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>> > > _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.
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Two items of note for those of you interested in my lectures on medieval 
dress, and are within range of either Ohio or Southern California:

-- I will be giving a full day of lectures (five in all) in Oxford, Ohio, at 
Miami University, on Saturday, Oct. 11, 2008. The website for registration 
isn't quite ready yet, but I figured some people would appreciate advance 
notice of the date and place for your calendar. My topics will be as follows:
	1. The Gothic Fitted Dress
	2. The Greenland Gored Gown
	3. Will the Real Sideless Surcoat Please Stand Up?
	4. The 15th Century V-Necked Gown
	5. When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume Sources

-- I have been approached for a possible appearance in the Los Angeles area, 
early in 2009. This, too, would be a full day consisting of five lectures, 
similar to the above, though probably with some slight variation in the 
lecture lineup. The organizer would like to get a sense of how much interest 
there is so she can choose a suitable venue. If you think you might want to 
attend, please let her know. You can post here and I'll pass the word along, 
or contact her directly (with a copy to me, please): Kerri, at 
bkmorin@socal.rr.com

--Robin




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Evening formal wear for preference. :0)

S


>From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920's headwear
>Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:08:56 -0400
>
>Dear Sheridan,
>
>Are you looking for pictures of fancy dress as in costumes for costume
>parties or as in evening formal wear?
>
>Katy
>
>On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 4:46 PM, Shane Sheridan Chabot
><shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Hello!
> >
> > I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's 
>ladies
> > in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source 
>for
> > pictures.
> >
> > I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands 
>or
> > tiara type headdress.
> >
> > You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
> > again! :0)
> >
> >
> > Sheridan P
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
>  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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These are wonderful!

I had stumbled on this site in the past, but that was at least one broken 
computer ago. Thanks!

S


>From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920's headwear
>Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:27:04 -0500
>
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item6279.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item6488.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item6336.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item6348.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item6280.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item3451.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item535.htm
>http://www.antiquedress.com/item535.htm
>
>Hope this helps
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>Hello!
>
>I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's 
>ladies
>in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for
>pictures.
>
>I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or
>tiara type headdress.
>
>You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
>again! :0)
>
>
>Sheridan P
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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I have recently acquired a Vintage silver fox shoulder wrap that is in need=
 of repair.=A0 I was going to use it in its entirety over an outer cloak, b=
ut the fur stitching is so old, it is disintegrating.=A0 I think if I can r=
epair it before it tears any more, it will be okay.=A0 How can I stabilize =
the ripping and get the fur back to where I can sew the lining back to it?=
=A0 The strips of pelts are about 2 in. wide.=A0 If I cannot stop the teari=
ng, then I guess I will just be forced to use it as strips of trim which is=
 a different set of questions. ;D
=A0
Thanks to everyone on this list for your help and ideas!
=A0
Carletta


      =

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.
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Los Angeles, Robin? Yes yes YES Please! I'll be there--with troops of
friends.

On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
wrote:

> Two items of note for those of you interested in my lectures on medieval
> dress, and are within range of either Ohio or Southern California:
>
> -- I will be giving a full day of lectures (five in all) in Oxford, Ohio,
> at Miami University, on Saturday, Oct. 11, 2008. The website for
> registration isn't quite ready yet, but I figured some people would
> appreciate advance notice of the date and place for your calendar. My topics
> will be as follows:
>        1. The Gothic Fitted Dress
>        2. The Greenland Gored Gown
>        3. Will the Real Sideless Surcoat Please Stand Up?
>        4. The 15th Century V-Necked Gown
>        5. When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume
> Sources
>
> -- I have been approached for a possible appearance in the Los Angeles
> area, early in 2009. This, too, would be a full day consisting of five
> lectures, similar to the above, though probably with some slight variation
> in the lecture lineup. The organizer would like to get a sense of how much
> interest there is so she can choose a suitable venue. If you think you might
> want to attend, please let her know. You can post here and I'll pass the
> word along, or contact her directly (with a copy to me, please): Kerri, at
> bkmorin@socal.rr.com
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
and your favorite bookseller
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Drat it!  I can't afford to travel very far.  Even Southern California is probably outside my budget for the forseeable future.  Will you be doing anything in Northern California in the near future?

Ginni Morgan

>>> Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> 7/28/08 10:35 PM >>>
Two items of note for those of you interested in my lectures on medieval 
dress, and are within range of either Ohio or Southern California:

-- I will be giving a full day of lectures (five in all) in Oxford, Ohio, at 
Miami University, on Saturday, Oct. 11, 2008. The website for registration 
isn't quite ready yet, but I figured some people would appreciate advance 
notice of the date and place for your calendar. My topics will be as follows:
	1. The Gothic Fitted Dress
	2. The Greenland Gored Gown
	3. Will the Real Sideless Surcoat Please Stand Up?
	4. The 15th Century V-Necked Gown
	5. When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume Sources

-- I have been approached for a possible appearance in the Los Angeles area, 
early in 2009. This, too, would be a full day consisting of five lectures, 
similar to the above, though probably with some slight variation in the 
lecture lineup. The organizer would like to get a sense of how much interest 
there is so she can choose a suitable venue. If you think you might want to 
attend, please let her know. You can post here and I'll pass the word along, 
or contact her directly (with a copy to me, please): Kerri, at 
bkmorin@socal.rr.com 

--Robin




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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
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I know the book very well.  IMHO, you would be better served by using
a more modern bit of research. Harmand's book is c1928.  It's chief
value is the prolific references to all those wonderful illuminations
in the BNF and the quotations from Jeanne d'Arc trial.  May I suggest
you look thru the London excavations books or Fashions in the Age of
the Black Prince for the detailed answers to your question?  If all
you want is a pattern & working method, the the Medieval Tailor is
more up to date than Jeanne d'Arc and accessible in a language you
read.  This really isnt my period, so I cant answer your question
directly.
Best,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Hi,

I'm solving a little problem, the lining in joined hose in the 15th
century in general. Was there any - if yes, how did it look, did it
cover the whole hose, how often one could see hose with lining and
hose without - and also was there lining in hose in earlier periods? I
could only find something in Adrien Harmand's book, but my French is
not excellent and I'm not sure whether I understand everything...

If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to it by telling
me the name of the subject:-)
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Ginni Morgan wrote:
> Drat it!  I can't afford to travel very far.  Even Southern California is probably outside my budget for the forseeable future.  Will you be doing anything in Northern California in the near future?

If someone (or group) wants to bring me in, I'm all for it. It's been years 
since I've been out there. I spoke in San Jose in, hmm, 2003 I think. I know 
there are people in Sacramento and Davis who have talked about it, but I 
haven't heard anything from that quarter for a long time.

--Robin
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A. (Robin Netherton)
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Looking forward to it!
I've already put it on my calendar.

You will let us know when the registration site for Oxford is up, won't you?

Christine Shamblin


-- 
"I'm a Material Girl...want to see my fabric collection?"
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Hmmm, I'll check into it.

Ginni

>>> Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> 7/29/08 9:35 AM >>>
Ginni Morgan wrote:
> Drat it!  I can't afford to travel very far.  Even Southern California is probably outside my budget for the forseeable future.  Will you be doing anything in Northern California in the near future?

If someone (or group) wants to bring me in, I'm all for it. It's been years 
since I've been out there. I spoke in San Jose in, hmm, 2003 I think. I know 
there are people in Sacramento and Davis who have talked about it, but I 
haven't heard anything from that quarter for a long time.

--Robin
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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> Sheridan P wrote:
> I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies
> in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for
> pictures.

If fancy dress means costume or maquerade, I dont have any for the
20s.  If fancy dress means all dolled up for a night of dancing, I
have lots.  I collect pics of dancers, you see.   Where?

Definitely the V&A
Library of Congress photo archives .. Look for pictures of dancers US
& Europe (not Asian or you get endless natives in feathers & beads).
Movie stills - Mary Pickford, Rudolf Valentino, early Fred Astaire
Google images -- words involving dances
Fashion plate collections
Sheet music & record collections

> I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or
> tiara type headdress.
>
> You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
> again! :0)


Oddly, I have only one out of 100s.  From my photos & fashion plates
the modern concept of the 20s headband seems radically incorrect.  The
vast majority of fashionable ladies are in cloche hats or unadorned
bobbed hair, with or without the Marcel waves.
V&A
1920 Princess Alice of Albany aka Countess Athlone

Let me know if you find some, I'm still hunting, too.

I do find lots of headbands starting with Paul Poiret fashion plates
in the early teens, on Irene Castle and other dancers. All of these
are from pre-WWI photos & sheet music.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A. (Robin Netherton)
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Christine Shamblin wrote:
> Looking forward to it!
> I've already put it on my calendar.
> 
> You will let us know when the registration site for Oxford is up, won't you?

You bet. I was hoping it would be public by now, but I think the planners all 
went off to Pennsic with it half-done. I can assure you I'll be there, though, 
as they've bought my air ticket already.

--Robin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920's headwear (Shane Sheridan Chabot)
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(resent with the correct subj line... apologies)
> Sheridan P wrote:
> I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies
> in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for
> pictures.


If fancy dress means costume or maquerade, I dont have any for the
20s.  If fancy dress means all dolled up for a night of dancing, I
have lots.  I collect pics of dancers, you see.   Where?

Definitely the V&A
Library of Congress photo archives .. Look for pictures of dancers US
& Europe (not Asian or you get endless natives in feathers & beads).
Movie stills - Mary Pickford, Rudolf Valentino, early Fred Astaire
Google images -- words involving dances
Fashion plate collections
Sheet music & record collections


> I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or
> tiara type headdress.
>
> You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks
> again! :0)



Oddly, I have only one out of 100s.  From my photos & fashion plates
the modern concept of the 20s headband seems radically incorrect.  The
vast majority of fashionable ladies are in cloche hats or unadorned
bobbed hair, with or without the Marcel waves.
V&A
1920 Princess Alice of Albany aka Countess Athlone

Let me know if you find some, I'm still hunting, too.

I do find lots of headbands starting with Paul Poiret fashion plates
in the early teens, on Irene Castle and other dancers. All of these
are from pre-WWI photos & sheet music.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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If the fur is going to be a lost cause in the end this is what I would try: 
purchase some very thin pigskin (dress glove weight) and glue it to the hide 
side of the fox. Use a flexible leather glue.

I'm sure that is not the way a conservator would do it, but if you want it 
to be sturdy enough to use it needs a sturdy base.

Otherwise you are faced with restitching all the fur pieces together with 
new thread, I think.

Denise 

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You may end up having to glue it to something anyway -- the skins on my vintage mink are so fragile that if I re-stitch it, it just tears again. 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net> 

> If the fur is going to be a lost cause in the end this is what I would try: 
> purchase some very thin pigskin (dress glove weight) and glue it to the hide 
> side of the fox. Use a flexible leather glue. 
> 
> I'm sure that is not the way a conservator would do it, but if you want it 
> to be sturdy enough to use it needs a sturdy base. 
> 
> Otherwise you are faced with restitching all the fur pieces together with 
> new thread, I think. 
> 
> Denise 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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You may end up having to glue it to something anyway -- the skins on my vintage mink are so fragile that if I re-stitch it, it just tears again. 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net> 

> If the fur is going to be a lost cause in the end this is what I would try: 
> purchase some very thin pigskin (dress glove weight) and glue it to the hide 
> side of the fox. Use a flexible leather glue. 
> 
> I'm sure that is not the way a conservator would do it, but if you want it 
> to be sturdy enough to use it needs a sturdy base. 
> 
> Otherwise you are faced with restitching all the fur pieces together with 
> new thread, I think. 
> 
> Denise 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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While we're on the subject of furs, I have some ermine that has gone  
quite yellow. Is there anything I can do to bring it back to white?

Emma

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I will agree with Ms. Barnes.  I just got a cool book  "Victorian  
hairstyles: An illustrated History of Hairstyles 1830- 1930." By  
Marian I. Doyle.  They show several pictures of people with the new  
brow band in 1915.  Here is  a link to Theda Bara who wore a lot of  
headbands in her movies in the teens. http://silentladies.com/ 
PBara1.html

My favorite headband wearer is a fictional character:  Ozma of Oz.  
She wears giant  headband as drawn by John R. Neill  http:// 
www.allposters.com/-st/John-R-Neill-Posters_c63916_.htm   these  
images reflect the fashion of the 19teens.  Ozma of Oz was published  
in 1907.

With the introduction of the hair being bobbed and the Marcel wave,  
items in the hair seem to "fall out"

regards,

michelle lee
owner
Patterns from the Past
www.oldpatterns.com
  
  
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.
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Count me in, as well. I'm looking forward to it!

Connie B.

Robin Netherton wrote:
> Two items of note for those of you interested in my lectures on 
> medieval dress, and are within range of either Ohio or Southern 
> California:
>
> -- I will be giving a full day of lectures (five in all) in Oxford, 
> Ohio, at Miami University, on Saturday, Oct. 11, 2008. The website for 
> registration isn't quite ready yet, but I figured some people would 
> appreciate advance notice of the date and place for your calendar. My 
> topics will be as follows:
>     1. The Gothic Fitted Dress
>     2. The Greenland Gored Gown
>     3. Will the Real Sideless Surcoat Please Stand Up?
>     4. The 15th Century V-Necked Gown
>     5. When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume Sources
>
> -- I have been approached for a possible appearance in the Los Angeles 
> area, early in 2009. This, too, would be a full day consisting of five 
> lectures, similar to the above, though probably with some slight 
> variation in the lecture lineup. The organizer would like to get a 
> sense of how much interest there is so she can choose a suitable 
> venue. If you think you might want to attend, please let her know. You 
> can post here and I'll pass the word along, or contact her directly 
> (with a copy to me, please): Kerri, at bkmorin@socal.rr.com
>
> --Robin

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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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Subject: [h-cost]  more fur repair-whitening
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I don't know if this will cure yellowing, but here is some advice from "The Complete Dressmaker", published in 1907:  (white fur 
near the end)

      CLEANING FUR

     The dark furs, such as seal, mink, sable, etc., respond to mahogany or fine cedar sawdust as a cleanser.  These may be 
purchased from any furrier.  Place the fur on a table with the hairy side up and rub sawdust in by the handful.  Use plenty of 
sawdust and rub vigorously.  Shake the fur over the table to save the sawdust that fall, as it can be used again.  Turn the fur with 
the hair side down on large pillows according to the size of the garment; beat it well with a switch.  Shake the pillows 
occasionally and continue beating until all the sawdust is removed.  White furs are cleaned in a similar fashion with corn meal.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

> While we're on the subject of furs, I have some ermine that has gone
> quite yellow. Is there anything I can do to bring it back to white?

> Emma

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
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I haven't done any research on the question myself, but last year at 
Pennsic I attended a class on hosen by Master Emrys Eustace, hight Broom - 
an older version of the handout is available on-line: 
http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear3.html 

I'd have to check my notes, but I remember him talking about lining - I 
think it was that we have textural references to lining of hose especially 
in Spain, but we don't know what was meant by the lining. Master Broom's 
hypothesis is that it's a rather short lining - that stops above the knee, 
intended to protect against wear as the legs rub together. I think Master 
Broom's e-mail address is in the handout, you might send your question to 
him directly (though he may be at Pennsic, currently...)
        -sunny


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It's up and can be found here:
http://www.greneboke.com/robinnetherton.shtml

Kate
who's planning to go, too!

---- Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote: 
> Christine Shamblin wrote:
> > Looking forward to it!
> > I've already put it on my calendar.
> > 
> > You will let us know when the registration site for Oxford is up, won't you?
> 
> You bet. I was hoping it would be public by now, but I think the planners all 
> went off to Pennsic with it half-done. I can assure you I'll be there, though, 
> as they've bought my air ticket already.
> 
> --Robin
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>To: "Joan" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>From: "Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle" <ask@fabrics-store.com>
>Sender: special-offers@aweber.com
>Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:08:49 -0400
>Subject: Joan, Enormous Sale =AD 20 Yard Bolts In All Popular Weights!
>
>Dear Joan,
>
>Four months ago I did a sale that got such a =

>positive response, that everyone kept asking me =

>to do it again! Because the deal was so good for =

>my customers, almost too good, I couldn't afford =

>doing the deal again and again like my customers =

>asked for. But after four months, it's back:
>
>So here's the deal:
>
>I am taking all the popular fabric weights:
>    * Light weight 3.5 ounces/yard IL020 100% linen
>    * Medium weight 5.3 ounces/yard IL019 100% linen
>    * Heavy weight 7.1 ounces/yard 4C22 100% linen
>    * Super Heavy weight 8 ounces/yard IL090 100% linen
>
>I am including the utmost necessary colors:
>    * Bleached
>    * Bleached Softened
>    * Natural
>    * Natural Softened
>
>And I am cutting them down to easy-to-order =

>20-yard bolts and discounting the bolts 10%!
>
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ouch.
>
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>
>These essential fabrics, in the basic weights =

>necessary to complete almost any project - will =

>be on this sale only for this week until Sunday =

>the 3rd. I cannot afford to do this sale again for a long time!
>
>With this deal, you can have your basic 100% =

>linen needs covered for the near future!
>
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=3DC4tym&m=3D1glmDIdVi7kVyH&b=3D8Bp6tXrR2=
ANA6N8mKFva8Q>Enter =

>here to go directly to the discounted bolts and save 10%!
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Nikolai Karpushin
>Owner and President
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=3DC4tym&m=3D1glmDIdVi7kVyH&b=3D8Bp6tXrR2=
ANA6N8mKFva8Q>Fabrics-store.com
>
>P.S. Don't forget that with every purchase, you =

>earn points that can be transferred into dollar credit.
>
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>and be the first to know when new Doggie bags =

>are posted. These are 1st quality precut pieces =

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>at terrific discount. After all, you'd cut them anyways.
>
>P.P.P.S If you know someone who will value this =

>information, feel free to forward them this email.
>
>Terms & Conditions
>Offer cannot be applied to previous or pending purchases.
>
>Creative Work Media, LLC., 6325 Santa Monica =

>Blvd., Suite 102, Hollywood, CA 90038, USA
>
>To unsubscribe or change subscriber options visit:
><http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zGzMHIxsDA=3D=3D>http:=
//www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zGzMHIxsDA=3D=3D

I just received this notice and thought that you =

all would like to  take a look at the linens on sale.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net =

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1920s Bandeau
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I collect in my L'Art et la Mode magazines. These were high fashion 
magazines that I believe were published weekly.  I picked up a handful from 
my collection from 1921-1925 and came up with several styles of bandeau. 
Below is a list of the from the magazines by year.  Fashion designers' names 
and type of bandeau appear after the specific years.

All the examples of bandeau were worn for eveningwear.  Events were parties, 
balls, opera, theatre, and dancing.

I have a larger collection of the magazine from 1905-1919.  I don't have 
time to pull them out.   I do not read French so bare with me.

1921:
Emile: Single strand beads as headband.
Soulie: Same type as above.

1922:
1. Molyneux: Tiara/crown
2. Poiret: scarf headband
3. Tollman: tiara headband
4. Doucet: pearl stranded headband (four strands)
5. Bernard: scarf headband

1923:
1. Lanvin: tiara
2. Worth: A. large taira B. Single strand beads
3. Les Toilettes de Mme Simone Dan-"La Courturiere au Theatre de Vaudeville: 
3 models of lg. crown tiaras with a tie at the side of the head.
4. Scavone (not sure if designer or store): A. plain headband B. crown 
headband.
5. Un Dimanche soir au Ritz: Headband crown that wraps around a bun at nape 
of neck.
6. Molyneux: crown/tiara
7. One ad with 7 bandeau for balls from designers Lewis, Marie Crozet, and 
Camille Roger

1924:
1. Soulie: rolled headband with tail with a bow at the end.
2. Madeleine et Madeleine: headband w/o tail.

1925:
1.Tollman (Two bands with a rosette at the side, in same plate two ladies 
with the crown headpiece)
2. Laure (crown like one of Henry VIII's wives)


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.
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Hi Robin,

I would be interested, tho it depends on when and where in L.A. I am in Central CA, so a northern CA trip in the future would also be of value, especially to my Barony people who can and do travel to both parts of the state.

Kimiko


--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:

> -- I have been approached for a possible appearance in the
> Los Angeles area, 
> early in 2009. This, too, would be a full day consisting of
> five lectures, 
> similar to the above, though probably with some slight
> variation in the 
> lecture lineup. The organizer would like to get a sense of
> how much interest 
> there is so she can choose a suitable venue. If you think
> you might want to 
> attend, please let her know. You can post here and I'll
> pass the word along, 
> or contact her directly (with a copy to me, please): Kerri,
> at 
> bkmorin@socal.rr.com
> 
> --Robin



      
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I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than  
the 16th century.
 
I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury  
Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
 
I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have  
the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works  
well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics).   
The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for  
strength.
 
If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The  
Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined  
hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting.
 
All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  3
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova  <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining
To:  h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Message-ID:  <324856.52947.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi,

I'm solving a little problem,  the lining in joined hose in the 15th century 
in general. Was there any - if  yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole 
hose, how often one could see  hose with lining and hose without - and also was 
there lining in hose in  earlier periods? I could only find something in 
Adrien Harmand's book, but my  French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I 
understand  everything...

If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to  it by telling me the 
name of the  subject:-)

Zuzana







   
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From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
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The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with 
white taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here: 
http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm).

Jen/pixel/Margaret

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

>
> I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than
> the 16th century.
>
> I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury
> Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
>
> I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have
> the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works
> well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics).
> The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for
> strength.
>
> If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The
> Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined
> hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting.
>
> All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> Message:  3
> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Zuzana Kraemerova  <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining
> To:  h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Message-ID:  <324856.52947.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm solving a little problem,  the lining in joined hose in the 15th century
> in general. Was there any - if  yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole
> hose, how often one could see  hose with lining and hose without - and also was
> there lining in hose in  earlier periods? I could only find something in
> Adrien Harmand's book, but my  French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I
> understand  everything...
>
> If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to  it by telling me the
> name of the  subject:-)
>
> Zuzana
>
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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You have to remember that "hose" is the word for all sorts of things from
trunk hose to "tights". Sometimes it just means "pants", like venetians or
slops. The sentence is question is "he said to her, Go fetch me the white
hose lined with white taffeta which I left In a certain chest when I went
away." That to me means trunk hose..

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 7:43 AM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen <
pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com> wrote:

>
> The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with white
> taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here:
> http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm).
>
>
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.
CANADIAN readers may want to use
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
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>
> On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Robin Netherton  
> <robin@netherton.net>
> wrote:
>> The organizer would like to get a sense of how much
>> interest there is so she can choose a suitable venue.

I'll drive 400 miles for that!
(If gas is less than $10 a gallon by then, that is)

Margo
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
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> I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the
> lining would need to have  
> the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never
> found anything that works  
> well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern
> stretch fabrics).   
> The only area I line is the part at the waist where the
> points sit...

Yes, that's exactly my problem, too. My question was purely theoretical. 
I know Ninya Mikhaila's fitting method, I do it more or less the same, but I still have a lot of trouble, especially when fitting over the pelvis. When it fits snugly when standing, it will pull too much when sitting...and when it's ok while sitting, it makes an awful lot of bulk when standing.

Thank you all for the information. I would be thankful to Melanie if she would look some exact pictures up sometime, because my collection of manuscripts is very poor:-( 

Zuzana



      
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On Jul 30, 2008, at 6:05 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ 
> Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg. I would be thankful to Melanie  
> if she would look some exact pictures up sometime, because my  
> collection of manuscripts is very poor:-(

As I said before, they're not joined hose, but you can see the  
partial lining at the top and the holes for points (lacing) very  
clearly.  This is from Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle of the  
Legend of the True Cross in the San Frencesco choir chapel in Arezzo,  
Italy.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg

There's also St. Roch by Carpaccio in the Carrara Gallery, Bergamo.   
You can't tell how far down the lining goes, though.

http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/crivelli-st-roch-wallace.jpg

I thought that one of Pisanello's hanged men also showed hose lining,  
but alas it does not.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] C18th and C19th Accessories
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The Dressing History Shop is now online at http://www.dressing-history.co.uk/shop .  It provides a range of accurate C18th and C19th accessories, including bonnets, stockings, silk ribbon and hand made mitts, as well as many other unique or hard to find products.

We will also have a stall at the Jane Austen Festival later this year, selling our 1790 to 1817 products.

I hope that our products will be of interest to you,

Serena

Serena Dyer
Dressing History
Bedfordshire, UK
01767 640199
serena@dressing-history.co.uk 
http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
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On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

>
> I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from  
> earlier than
> the 16th century.
>
> I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in  
> Canturbury
> Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).

<snip>

>
> All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.

In terms of joined hose, I've only cataloged one pair earlier than  
the 16th century -- I don't have my full notes in front of me at the  
moment, but they're in one of the German museum photo collections and  
are listed as 15th c.  While the two legs are joined at the  
waistband, they aren't joined across the seat.  The photo doesn't  
appear to show a lining, but I don't know what the preservation  
conditions were -- a linen lining might be lost under many conditions  
where the main fabric was preserved.

On the larger question of extant hose -- if we include anything from  
buskins on up -- I have a couple dozen items in my current catalog  
from the general 8-15th century period.  About half of them are  
ecclesiastical in origin, but during that period they seem to be  
roughly similar in cut to the secular garments.

Heather

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
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Some good 15th century stuff here.
http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf

The hosen start on page 15.

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 2:24 PM, Heather Rose Jones <
heather.jones@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
> On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>> I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier
>> than
>> the 16th century.
>>
>> I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury
>> Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
>>
>
> <snip>
>
>
>> All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.
>>
>
> In terms of joined hose, I've only cataloged one pair earlier than the 16th
> century -- I don't have my full notes in front of me at the moment, but
> they're in one of the German museum photo collections and are listed as 15th
> c.  While the two legs are joined at the waistband, they aren't joined
> across the seat.  The photo doesn't appear to show a lining, but I don't
> know what the preservation conditions were -- a linen lining might be lost
> under many conditions where the main fabric was preserved.
>
> On the larger question of extant hose -- if we include anything from
> buskins on up -- I have a couple dozen items in my current catalog from the
> general 8-15th century period.  About half of them are ecclesiastical in
> origin, but during that period they seem to be roughly similar in cut to the
> secular garments.
>
> Heather
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.
CANADIAN readers may want to use
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
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At 18:20 31/07/2008, you wrote:
>Some good 15th century stuff here.
>http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf
>
>The hosen start on page 15.

Very interesting site - thanks for posting.

Suzi


>On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 2:24 PM, Heather Rose Jones <
>heather.jones@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >> I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier
> >> than
> >> the 16th century.
> >>
> >> I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury
> >> Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
> >>
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> >
> >> All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.
> >>
> >
> > In terms of joined hose, I've only cataloged one pair earlier than the 16th
> > century -- I don't have my full notes in front of me at the moment, but
> > they're in one of the German museum photo collections and are 
> listed as 15th
> > c.  While the two legs are joined at the waistband, they aren't joined
> > across the seat.  The photo doesn't appear to show a lining, but I don't
> > know what the preservation conditions were -- a linen lining might be lost
> > under many conditions where the main fabric was preserved.
> >
> > On the larger question of extant hose -- if we include anything from
> > buskins on up -- I have a couple dozen items in my current catalog from the
> > general 8-15th century period.  About half of them are ecclesiastical in
> > origin, but during that period they seem to be roughly similar in 
> cut to the
> > secular garments.
> >
> > Heather
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Maggie Secara
>~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
>ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
>Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.
>CANADIAN readers may want to use
>http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Ya-hoo!  I'm in for L.A.

Regina
(who says the Irish are out of style...for the 1460's)
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