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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<alpine.DEB.1.00.0807300909260.28250@magilla.itasca.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Titles (was Hose lining)
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Sheesh, I gotta stop reading email first thing in the morning.

At first sight, I thought this subject was to ddo with the innards of some kind 
of garden hose that could be useful as an edging for a sharp edge. So much for 
futuristic armour!

Coffee, coffee, gimme more coffee!

-C.


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Diaghilev's Ballet Russes Costume
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This site has some really nice costumes on it:
http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/5299398

Its a nice place to look around!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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From: Kate Pinner <pinnerk@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<alpine.DEB.1.00.0807300909260.28250@magilla.itasca.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need help Norway 1879-1890
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I will be doing Ibsen's "Doll's House" and "Hedda Gabler" this fall and need
pictorial sources for fashions in 19th cent. Norway.  "Doll's House" is 1879
and "Hedda" is 1890. Was Norway doing the same stuff as America & Western
Europe? Colors? Fabrics? Any and all help would be appreciated!
 (Also would like to know about the interior archecture of the times as I
have to do the set, too.)

Kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help Norway 1879-1890
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Even though these are from Denmark, you  might find them of use:
http://www.dragt.dk/dragt-journal/dragtjournalen.html

Beth

At 01:00 PM 8/1/2008, Kate wrote:
>Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 13:47:09 -0400
>From: Kate Pinner <pinnerk@mccc.edu>
>
>I will be doing Ibsen's "Doll's House" and "Hedda Gabler" this fall and need
>pictorial sources for fashions in 19th cent. Norway.  "Doll's House" is 1879
>and "Hedda" is 1890. Was Norway doing the same stuff as America & Western
>Europe? Colors? Fabrics? Any and all help would be appreciated!
>  (Also would like to know about the interior archecture of the times as I
>have to do the set, too.)
>
>Kate

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help Norway 1879-1890
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Thought this is a wee bit late
http://www.amazon.com/Style-Splendor-Wardrobe-Norway-1896-1938/dp/1851774548
I would say from this that they were somewhat up of the style.

Queen Maude V&A
http://tinyurl.com/5foc7r

-----Original Message-----
I will be doing Ibsen's "Doll's House" and "Hedda Gabler" this fall and need
pictorial sources for fashions in 19th cent. Norway.  "Doll's House" is 1879
and "Hedda" is 1890. Was Norway doing the same stuff as America & Western
Europe? Colors? Fabrics? Any and all help would be appreciated!
 (Also would like to know about the interior archecture of the times as I
have to do the set, too.)

Kate



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In a message dated 8/1/2008 2:37:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bmatney@alltel.net writes:

I will  be doing Ibsen's "Doll's House" and "Hedda Gabler" 


***************
 
 
Two of my favorite plays ever!
 
The class of people you are dealing with here would be fashionable along  the 
lines of the rest of Europe. But of course it's fun and appropriate to  
include "regional" details. 
 
When I did "Doll's House" I used a lot of forest green wool on Nora's 1st  
outfit. And as  her dilemma progresses, I had her start overdressing,  dressing 
for her husband...his "little squirrel" or whatever he calls her.  Things got 
more girly and ruffled and fringed. Then by the time Nora comes  around, she's 
dressed up in her fancy dress outfit....a costumey Italian Peasant  outfit to 
dance the Tarantella in and Torvald is in evening wear. I thought of  it as a 
sorta Don Giovanni moment, she the "peasant wench" being patronized by  the 
upper class man.... and she realizes it. Then for her big exit, she's  back to 
the sober clothes of the beginning [I used the same coat she wore when  she 
came in from shopping in Act One.]
 
I'm sorry....I didn't mean to tell you how to design the show, but I love  
this play and was very pleased with my results when I did it...so I'll  share....



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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I am watching a program on the Koran, and see several types of men's head dress.  One with a white cloth and then a black "rope" circlet of two rounds.  It looks like marine rope, but this seems unlikely.  Anyone know anything about it?  Also, there are some simple turban like head dress, both simply white and black....anyone know how to wrap them?

Thanks,
Sg
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I am watching a program on the Koran, and see several types of men's head dress.  One with a white cloth and then a black "rope" circlet of two rounds.  It looks like marine rope, but this seems unlikely.  Anyone know anything about it?  Also, there are some simple turban like head dress, both simply white and black....anyone know how to wrap them?

The red and white, or black and white checkered scarves are called 
kaffiyeh. The rope bands that hold them in place are called agal. There 
are many ways to wear the keffiyeh, the color and they way it is wrapped 
often depend on the wearer's nationality or ethnic origin. They are only 
worn by men. The simplest way to wear one is to fold it in half to make 
a triangle, and drape it with the folded edge across the forehead. My 
father brought one home as a souvenier from working in Saudi Arabia many 
years ago.
The plain black and plain white turbans are made from very long lengths 
of narrow woven cotton. My husband works with a man who wears one. He 
graciously allowed me to borrow one for a few days. The cotton was very 
thin, and I was told the way to wear it was to just start wrapping it 
around your head until you got it all covered. It was horrendously long, 
but I forget how many yards. I suppose if you grow up in that culture 
you learn some tricks to wrapping it so it looks nice.




Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curious about headdress - Arabic?
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There was an interesting article in an issue of TI last year about how to
wrap turbans, with pics.

Arlys

On Tue, 05 Aug 2008 22:26:02 -0600 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> > I am watching a program on the Koran, and see several types of 
> men's head dress.  One with a white cloth and then a black "rope" 
> circlet of two rounds.  It looks like marine rope, but this seems 
> unlikely.  Anyone know anything about it?  Also, there are some 
> simple turban like head dress, both simply white and black....anyone 
> know how to wrap them?
> 
> The red and white, or black and white checkered scarves are called 
> kaffiyeh. The rope bands that hold them in place are called agal. 
> There 
> are many ways to wear the keffiyeh, the color and they way it is 
> wrapped 
> often depend on the wearer's nationality or ethnic origin. They are 
> only 
> worn by men. The simplest way to wear one is to fold it in half to 
> make 
> a triangle, and drape it with the folded edge across the forehead. 
> My 
> father brought one home as a souvenier from working in Saudi Arabia 
> many 
> years ago.
> The plain black and plain white turbans are made from very long 
> lengths 
> of narrow woven cotton. My husband works with a man who wears one. 
> He 
> graciously allowed me to borrow one for a few days. The cotton was 
> very 
> thin, and I was told the way to wear it was to just start wrapping 
> it 
> around your head until you got it all covered. It was horrendously 
> long, 
> but I forget how many yards. I suppose if you grow up in that 
> culture 
> you learn some tricks to wrapping it so it looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
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Turbans are very easy to wrap once you get the right fabric for them, I use 
two different methods to wrap mine, and you can get a multitude of looks 
depending on how you twist the fabric as you wrap.

I have two turbans, both are a very lightweight cotton (almost gauze) and 
the shortest one is  two and a half meters long - it makes a very skimpy 
turban. I can see about getting some pictures to show you how I wrap them - 
folks ask me about this on a regular basis, so its something I should do 
anyway. :0) Visual is easier to figure out than descriptive I think...


Sheridan P


>From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Curious about headdress - Arabic?
>Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 19:04:59 -0700
>
>I am watching a program on the Koran, and see several types of men's head 
>dress.  One with a white cloth and then a black "rope" circlet of two 
>rounds.  It looks like marine rope, but this seems unlikely.  Anyone know 
>anything about it?  Also, there are some simple turban like head dress, 
>both simply white and black....anyone know how to wrap them?
>
>Thanks,
>Sg
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Thanks to all who have responded and Sheridan I would really like to see your process.  I remember vaguely reading the article in TI...have to look that up again.  I wish I could have recorded and shown you which turban i was particularly interested in.  It was white and it almost looked like the fabric had been pleated into neat rows around the  head.

Sg



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Hi H-Costume,

I have just received a note from the Wife Swap team looking for =

historical costumers to be on their reality TV show. I expect others are =

receiving this as well. Treat this with extreme skepticism.

Short story: They canvassed for historical re-creationists in January of =

2005, found one family in the SCA, and proceeded to do a completely =

slanted treatment of their home life. Do not fall for this seemingly =

innocent ploy. They are no friend to the historic interest community.

Feel free to forward this email to whomever you like. Details below.
...................
The 2005 message sounded very sympathetic and sincere; here's the copy I =

recieved:
>
> My name is Kevin Cronan and I'm producing a television show for ABC =

> network examining the relationships between parents and children. =

> We're trying to find stories where children share interests, or don't =

> share interests of the parents.
>
> I thought it might be productive to contact members of the SCA. I'm =

> looking to talk to teenagers and young adults who share or hate their =

> parents' passion for medieval recreation. We're looking to keep this =

> light, so I'm not looking for stories where these interests have =

> caused deep divide within the family.
>
> If you can think of anyone I should talk to please pass along my =

> e-mail address or e-mail
> me with their contact information. I appreciate your time and =

> generosity. My e-mail address is: (etc)


The blurb for the TV show itself, and the hack job they did on an =

apparently fairly normal family who went to SCA events can be read here: =

http://tribes.tribe.net/askwildcat/thread/134cdb0d-e7b4-4b0d-8bd8-7bec0c7ac=
9dd =

*Note* this is the exact show that they were casting with the letter =

above. I and some friends tracked Mr. Cronan down via the web as part of =

the key team for getting applications to Wife Swap.

Portraying anyone outside the mainstream as complete nutcases is the way =

they do business; it wouldn't be dramatic for their audience any other =

way. We've already discussed on this list the needless drama with the =

various Historic House series, and how they chose people completely =

unsuited and unprepared for living in a historic manner. This is a =

different team, but it's the same idea.

Here's a note about a neopagan family's treatment on Wife Swap: =

http://www.wildhunt.org/labels/Wife%20Swap.html

Here is the most recent missive from the Wife Swap team:
> ABC Primetime show casting Historical Costume Enthusiasts!
>
> Hello, my name is Vaia Abatzis and I=92m a casting producer for ABC's =

> hit show, "Wife Swap." I am holding a nation-wide casting call to find =

> fun and outgoing costume enthusiasts along with their family.
>
> I'm looking for people who love to dance, and enjoy sharing their =

> hobby with their families. I'm hoping to find families who are =

> passionate about their hobby, and who feel that they have a lot to =

> teach another family through their own professional and personal =

> experiences.
>
> If you have seen the show, you know we pride ourselves on casting a =

> wide array of families from all different walks of life who would like =

> the opportunity to educate the viewing audience about their particular =

> parenting philosophy, their beliefs and their way of life.
>
> Families must consist of two parents and at least one child over the =

> age of 5. Families who appear on the show receive a $20,000 honorarium =

> and if you refer a family who appears on our show, you will receive a =

> $1,000 finder's fee PER family.
>
> If you are unfamiliar with the show, the premise of Wife Swap is to =

> take two different families and have the moms switch places to =

> experience how another family lives. This is meant to be a positive =

> experience for people to not only learn but teach other ways of life. =

> If you would like more information about the show, go to ABC.com and =

> you will find "Wife Swap" under the primetime listings.
>
> If you are interested, please contact me at the office ASAP at =

> [number] or e-mail your phone number to [email] and I will call you =

> directly.
>
> Feel free to forward this on to anyone you believe would be interested.
>
> Thank You,
> Vaia Abatzis
> Casting Producer|Wife Swap

I encourage anyone even remotely interested in this to do very, very =

thorough research on the treatment of creative people and unconventional =

people before responding to Ms. Abatzis.

Regards,

Cynthia Virtue



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress -
	Arabic?]
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Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/

I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway).



Claudine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] WARNING: "Wife Swap" looking for Historical Costumers
	to be on their program
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Ugh, I hate "reality" TV! Who wants a complete stranger in their house,
living with their family and the whole thing on TV for the whole world to
see....

They are just looking for something they don't consider "normal" or
"mainstream" to sensationalize and basically make fun of.

Thanks for the heads up...

                   .
                  /'
                 //
             .  //
             |\//7
            /' " \
           .   . .
           | (    \     '._
           |  '._  '    '. '
           /    \'-'_---. ) )
          .              :.'
          |               \
          | .    .   .     .
          ' .    |  |      |
           \^   /_-':     /
           / | |    '\  .'
          / /| |     \\  |
          \ \( )     // /
           \ | |    // /
             ! !   // / Joan Broneske
             [_]  |[_|  unicorn@surewest.net

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 5:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] WARNING: "Wife Swap" looking for Historical Costumers to
be on their program

Hi H-Costume,

I have just received a note from the Wife Swap team looking for 
historical costumers to be on their reality TV show. I expect others are 
receiving this as well. Treat this with extreme skepticism.

Short story: They canvassed for historical re-creationists in January of 
2005, found one family in the SCA, and proceeded to do a completely 
slanted treatment of their home life. Do not fall for this seemingly 
innocent ploy. They are no friend to the historic interest community.

Feel free to forward this email to whomever you like. Details below.
...................
The 2005 message sounded very sympathetic and sincere; here's the copy I 
recieved:
>
> My name is Kevin Cronan and I'm producing a television show for ABC 
> network examining the relationships between parents and children. 
> We're trying to find stories where children share interests, or don't 
> share interests of the parents.
>
> I thought it might be productive to contact members of the SCA. I'm 
> looking to talk to teenagers and young adults who share or hate their 
> parents' passion for medieval recreation. We're looking to keep this 
> light, so I'm not looking for stories where these interests have 
> caused deep divide within the family.
>
> If you can think of anyone I should talk to please pass along my 
> e-mail address or e-mail
> me with their contact information. I appreciate your time and 
> generosity. My e-mail address is: (etc)


The blurb for the TV show itself, and the hack job they did on an 
apparently fairly normal family who went to SCA events can be read here: 
http://tribes.tribe.net/askwildcat/thread/134cdb0d-e7b4-4b0d-8bd8-7bec0c7ac9
dd 
*Note* this is the exact show that they were casting with the letter 
above. I and some friends tracked Mr. Cronan down via the web as part of 
the key team for getting applications to Wife Swap.

Portraying anyone outside the mainstream as complete nutcases is the way 
they do business; it wouldn't be dramatic for their audience any other 
way. We've already discussed on this list the needless drama with the 
various Historic House series, and how they chose people completely 
unsuited and unprepared for living in a historic manner. This is a 
different team, but it's the same idea.

Here's a note about a neopagan family's treatment on Wife Swap: 
http://www.wildhunt.org/labels/Wife%20Swap.html

Here is the most recent missive from the Wife Swap team:
> ABC Primetime show casting Historical Costume Enthusiasts!
>
> Hello, my name is Vaia Abatzis and I'm a casting producer for ABC's 
> hit show, "Wife Swap." I am holding a nation-wide casting call to find 
> fun and outgoing costume enthusiasts along with their family.
>
> I'm looking for people who love to dance, and enjoy sharing their 
> hobby with their families. I'm hoping to find families who are 
> passionate about their hobby, and who feel that they have a lot to 
> teach another family through their own professional and personal 
> experiences.
>
> If you have seen the show, you know we pride ourselves on casting a 
> wide array of families from all different walks of life who would like 
> the opportunity to educate the viewing audience about their particular 
> parenting philosophy, their beliefs and their way of life.
>
> Families must consist of two parents and at least one child over the 
> age of 5. Families who appear on the show receive a $20,000 honorarium 
> and if you refer a family who appears on our show, you will receive a 
> $1,000 finder's fee PER family.
>
> If you are unfamiliar with the show, the premise of Wife Swap is to 
> take two different families and have the moms switch places to 
> experience how another family lives. This is meant to be a positive 
> experience for people to not only learn but teach other ways of life. 
> If you would like more information about the show, go to ABC.com and 
> you will find "Wife Swap" under the primetime listings.
>
> If you are interested, please contact me at the office ASAP at 
> [number] or e-mail your phone number to [email] and I will call you 
> directly.
>
> Feel free to forward this on to anyone you believe would be interested.
>
> Thank You,
> Vaia Abatzis
> Casting Producer|Wife Swap

I encourage anyone even remotely interested in this to do very, very 
thorough research on the treatment of creative people and unconventional 
people before responding to Ms. Abatzis.

Regards,

Cynthia Virtue



_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 21:35:24 -0700
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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
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For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, 
I recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page: 
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20day-_-Thursday


>Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "Fabric.com" <list@fabric.com>
>Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>This message was sent to joanmj@surewest.net.
>
>[]
>
>
>Fabric.com Deal of the Day
>
>
>[]
>
>
>40% Off Wool Gabardine
>
>Thursday 08/07/08
>
>Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time
>
>Sale Price:
>[]
>5.99 yd
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Regular:
>[]
>9.98 yd
>
>Compare at:
>[]
>14.99 yd
>
>Wool gabardine is a wonderfully resilient, tightly woven fabric. 
>Gabardine is considered an easy care fabric because of its strength 
>and resistance to wrinkling. This natural fiber can be worn 
>throughout the year. Wool gabardine is perfect for skirts, pants and 
>jackets. 100% wool, 56'' wide
>
>Shop Now
>

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 01:40:06 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.
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Today I was informed that since things have settled down, Wal-Mart feels it
is safe to go ahead with it's plan to get rid of their fabrics.
New Stores will not have the fabric dept. Some stores will phase out the
fabric dept. and a few will have 2 and 3 yard pieces for sale.
I was told at one store that they will no longer be ordering for the $1.00
table. They have already stopped ordering replacement of many of their non
sale fabrics, like satin.
So if you have a Wal-Mart with a fabric department it will probably go bye
bye by January 2009.

De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.
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In a message dated 8/7/2008 2:40:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Today I  was informed that since things have settled down, Wal-Mart feels it
is safe  to go ahead with it's plan to get rid of their  fabrics.



Our local Wal-Mart opened without one, and doesn't even carry much in the  
way of notions.
 
Anyway, a letter-writing campaign may be in order to save what is  left.
 
Ann Wass



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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 07:32:15 -0500
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Here you will find a contact us in the upper right hand corner.
http://walmartstores.com/

De

-----Original Message-----
Our local Wal-Mart opened without one, and doesn't even carry much in the  
way of notions.
 
Anyway, a letter-writing campaign may be in order to save what is  left.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.
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Up here in Chicopee MA it's already gone. <le sigh>  I haven't checked 
the other three local WalMarts.

Starr

otsisto wrote:
> So if you have a Wal-Mart with a fabric department it will probably go bye
> bye by January 2009.
>
> De
>
>   

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Hi,

I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)

If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?

Thanks,

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read it last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it.

Sg



> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
> From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress -	Arabic?]
> 
> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
> 
> I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway).
> 
> 
> 
> Claudine
> 
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My vote would be QEW.  It meets your requirements and has just great fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard.  The other book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.

Sg



> Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 06:07:56 -0700
> From: zkraemerova@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)
> 
> If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Zuzana
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       
> _______________________________________________
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is still
only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know what
you're looking at.

MaggiRos

On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> My vote would be QEW.  It meets your requirements and has just great
> fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard.  The other
> book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.
>
> Sg
>

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
online bookseller
International readers may want to use
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
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At 17:21 07/08/2008, you wrote:
>Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is still
>only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know what
>you're looking at.

No, Moda a Firenze has one half of the page in Italian, the other in 
English, so there is no difficulty with the Italian language. The 
pictures are superb, and the text is very useful.  I would vote to 
save up and get both! (Anyone going to Florence in November might 
find Moda the more useful.)

Suzi


>MaggiRos
>
>On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > My vote would be QEW.  It meets your requirements and has just great
> > fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard.  The other
> > book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.
> >
> > Sg
> >
>
>--
>Maggie Secara
>~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
>ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
>Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
>online bookseller
>International readers may want to use
>http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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Hi there,
Actually Moda is in both Italian and English (on the same page!! ).  I love QEWU.  If you are just starting out in this field, then I think that is the book to start with.

Etiennette

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> 

> Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is still 
> only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know what 
> you're looking at. 
> 
> MaggiRos 
> 
> On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: 
> 
> > My vote would be QEW. It meets your requirements and has just great 
> > fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard. The other 
> > book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW. 
> > 
> > Sg 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Maggie Secara 
> ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 
> ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 
> Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite 
> online bookseller 
> International readers may want to use 
> http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Hi there,
Actually Moda is in both Italian and English (on the same page!! ).  I love QEWU.  If you are just starting out in this field, then I think that is the book to start with.

Etiennette

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> 

> Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is still 
> only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know what 
> you're looking at. 
> 
> MaggiRos 
> 
> On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: 
> 
> > My vote would be QEW. It meets your requirements and has just great 
> > fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard. The other 
> > book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW. 
> > 
> > Sg 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Maggie Secara 
> ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 
> ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 
> Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite 
> online bookseller 
> International readers may want to use 
> http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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All other things being equal, I would buy Elizabeth and save up for  
Moda next time.  Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe has more of the wonderful  
details about who made what and with what tools; it's more of a  
snapshot of Elizabethan clothing industry, with an emphasis on Royal  
clothing.


> Hi,
>
> I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am   
> hesitating between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe   
> unlocked. I've heard very good reference on both. I do not have any   
> special area of interest, so Florence or England are both   
> interesting to me, but I would welcome a detailed study with lots of  
>  large, quality photographs and also some tips on reconstruction   
> (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)
>
> If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zuzana
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>



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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 9:28 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 17:21 07/08/2008, you wrote:
>
>> Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is
>> still
>> only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know
>> what
>> you're looking at.
>>
>
> No, Moda a Firenze has one half of the page in Italian, the other in
> English, so there is no difficulty with the Italian language. The pictures
> are superb, and the text is very useful.  I would vote to save up and get
> both! (Anyone going to Florence in November might find Moda the more
> useful.)
>
> Suzi
>

Well darn! I wish I'd known that last weekend. Well, no, perhaps I don't. I
got both the Court of Henry VIII book and (finally) roy  Strong's Cult of
Elizabeth at Costume College, and that was probably enough.

MaggiRos
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
online bookseller
International readers may want to use
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
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Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
"Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
turban, and it looked great


I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in "Hats" by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]



Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read it last 
night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it.

Sg



> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
> From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
> 
> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
"Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody 
did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
> 
> I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can 
think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban 
is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and 
can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; I don't know what it's 
really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where 
the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you 
see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a 
Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a 
giveaway).
> 
> 
> 
> Claudine
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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Quoting Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>:

> Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is still
> only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know what
> you're looking at.

My vote is for MOda -- COLOR PICTURES!  More paintings than I'd never  
seen before all in one place.

And it's always been in English *and* Italian -- parallel columns.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
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Did she figure out how to wrap the turbans by experiment, by examining 
originals, or by using some period millinery manual?  When will the 
articles be published, I'd like to read them?

Thanks,

Fran

annbwass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
> "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
> subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
> weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
> turban, and it looked great
> 
> 
> I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in "Hats" by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation.
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read it last 
> night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it.
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
>> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
>> From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
>>
>> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
> "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
> subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
> weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
> turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody 
> did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
>> I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can 
> think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban 
> is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and 
> can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; I don't know what it's 
> really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where 
> the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you 
> see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a 
> Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a 
> giveaway).
>>
>>
>> Claudine
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
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The first article has already been published. I think she said there's going to be a total of 3 articles.

I don't know the answers to your questions (I didn't go to her turban wrapping class), and I don't think she's on this list, but you can ask her by sending her an email through her website, www.lynnmcmasters.com.



Claudine



----- Original Message ----
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2008 10:23:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?

Did she figure out how to wrap the turbans by experiment, by examining 
originals, or by using some period millinery manual?  When will the 
articles be published, I'd like to read them?

Thanks,

Fran

annbwass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
> "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
> subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
> weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
> turban, and it looked great
> 
> 
> I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in "Hats" by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation.
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read it last 
> night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it.
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
>> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
>> From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
>>
>> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
> "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a 
> subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the 
> weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge 
> turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody 
> did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
>> I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can 
> think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban 
> is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and 
> can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; I don't know what it's 
> really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where 
> the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you 
> see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a 
> Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a 
> giveaway).
>>
>>
>> Claudine
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
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Dear Fran,
It is not going to be published for all, only you have to subscribe to "Your 
Wardrobe Unlock'd" to get the article, thats the idea with her website.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - 
Arabic?


> Did she figure out how to wrap the turbans by experiment, by examining 
> originals, or by using some period millinery manual?  When will the 
> articles be published, I'd like to read them?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
>
> annbwass@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online 
>> publication "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency 
>> wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, 
>> but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught 
>> turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great
>>
>>
>> I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not 
>> extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a 
>> foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, 
>> and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in 
>> "Hats" by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric 
>> before attaching it to the foundation.
>>
>> Ann Wass
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - 
>> Arabic?]
>>
>>
>>
>> Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read 
>> it last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap 
>> it.
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>>
>>> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
>>> From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
>>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - 
>>> Arabic?]
>>>
>>> Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online 
>>> publication
>> "Your Wardrobe Unlock'd" about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't 
>> have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn 
>> over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) 
>> wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a 
>> photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
>>> I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures 
>>> I can
>> think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a 
>> turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, 
>> two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the "under turban"; 
>> I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards 
>> the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know 
>> anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of 
>> forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and 
>> certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway).
>>>
>>>
>>> Claudine
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Hello all, =

Good idea to stay clear of Wife Swap.=A0 I'm on a local SCA (Medieval) list=
 and ABC tried to find takers last year or so for I guess another angle on =
the SCA.=A0 After being told no, ABC tried to contact others by using diffe=
rent names and reasons for the contacts.=A0 Everyone on the list was warned=
 about ABC and advised to avoid even speaking with anyone relating to ABC o=
r broadcast production.=A0 =

Good luck, =

Sonja

 =

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I'd check the local library to see if they have one or both. Look at them and make a decision. If they only have one, buy the other one. That you'd have access to both editions.

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine

> Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 06:07:56 -0700
> From: zkraemerova@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)
> 
> If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Zuzana
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       
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Hi!

Does anyone know of any on-line sources for information on the make-up the Victorian 
actors and actress used?around the?1890's ?

With many thanks in advance
Jayne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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Moda has color pictures, QEU are black and white, if that makes a
difference. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 6:08 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?

Hi,

I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating
between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard
very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so
Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a
detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on
reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)

If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?

Thanks,

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
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Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
Sharon C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com; margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I
recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page: 
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabr
ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20d
ay-_-Thursday


>Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "Fabric.com" <list@fabric.com>
>Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>This message was sent to joanmj@surewest.net.
>
>[]
>
>
>Fabric.com Deal of the Day
>
>
>[]
>
>
>40% Off Wool Gabardine
>
>Thursday 08/07/08
>
>Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time
>
>Sale Price:
>[]
>5.99 yd
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Regular:
>[]
>9.98 yd
>
>Compare at:
>[]
>14.99 yd
>
>Wool gabardine is a wonderfully resilient, tightly woven fabric. 
>Gabardine is considered an easy care fabric because of its strength 
>and resistance to wrinkling. This natural fiber can be worn 
>throughout the year. Wool gabardine is perfect for skirts, pants and 
>jackets. 100% wool, 56'' wide
>
>Shop Now
>

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT? Victorian Stage Make-Up
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I would contact Tara McGinnis (Costumer's Manifesto - http://www.costumes.org/) for that kind of info. She had a great class on theatrical makeup from before the 20th century, which I took at Costume College. I took some notes, but it's a jumble right now. She may even be able to send you a digital copy of her handout, which is packed around here somewhere. Anyway, she's the one I would ask.

Kimiko


--- On Thu, 8/7/08, needlethread96@aol.co.uk <needlethread96@aol.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of any on-line sources for information on
> the make-up the Victorian 
> actors and actress used?around the?1890's ?
> 
> With many thanks in advance
> Jayne



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
> If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?


QEWU would be my choice, mainly because I am focused on English, and it provides a lot of info.

But Moda really is worthy in its own right.

Kimiko





      
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 02:20 PM 8/7/2008, you wrote:
>Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
>Sharon C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com; margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I
>recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page:
>http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabr
>ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20d
>ay-_-Thursday

Personally, I'd wash it with Synthrapol in warm water (then dry it in 
the dryer on delicate) before cutting.  That way you can get rid of 
any excess dye so that you won't have any problems with colors 
running and any shrinkage will be taken care of.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
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Sharon Collier wrote:
> Moda has color pictures, QEU are black and white, if that makes a
> difference. 

Not all the QEWU pictures are black and white. There are a fair number 
of color photos in the volume. All the photos are documented, so if you 
wanted a color image you could track them down.

What bugs me about the photos is not that they are B&W, but that they 
are only about 4" high, and a lot of the detail is lost at that size.


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
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Thanks! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 2:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

At 02:20 PM 8/7/2008, you wrote:
>Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
>Sharon C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
>On Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com; margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I 
>recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page:
>http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine
>-fabr 
>ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20th
>e%20d
>ay-_-Thursday

Personally, I'd wash it with Synthrapol in warm water (then dry it in the
dryer on delicate) before cutting.  That way you can get rid of any excess
dye so that you won't have any problems with colors running and any
shrinkage will be taken care of.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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It kind of depends on what you're using it for. 

I have some that I bought from another company and I washed it in warm water and dried it on low. It has since been washed on gentle in cold water and is hung up to dry. I made a cotehardie with it.

Kate
---- Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote: 
> Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
> Sharon C. 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com; margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
> 
> For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I
> recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page: 
> http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabr
> ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20d
> ay-_-Thursday
> 
> 
> >Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
> >From: "Fabric.com" <list@fabric.com>
> >Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
> >
> >This message was sent to joanmj@surewest.net.
> >
> >[]
> >
> >
> >Fabric.com Deal of the Day
> >
> >
> >[]
> >
> >
> >40% Off Wool Gabardine
> >
> >Thursday 08/07/08
> >
> >Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time
> >
> >Sale Price:
> >[]
> >5.99 yd
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >Regular:
> >[]
> >9.98 yd
> >
> >Compare at:
> >[]
> >14.99 yd
> >
> >Wool gabardine is a wonderfully resilient, tightly woven fabric. 
> >Gabardine is considered an easy care fabric because of its strength 
> >and resistance to wrinkling. This natural fiber can be worn 
> >throughout the year. Wool gabardine is perfect for skirts, pants and 
> >jackets. 100% wool, 56'' wide
> >
> >Shop Now
> >
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Thank you all for your suggestions. Both books are very tempting, I love color pictures, but QEW seems to have won anyway:-) 

Zuzana


      
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
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The reply to my Walmart messge about Fabrics:


 >>Thank you for your message.

Dear Susan,

Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the fabric department in  
your local store.  As with any merchandise decision that we make, we  
have based our decision to reduce the stitching and fabric departments  
on customer demand, which does not appear to be as high today for a  
full stitching and fabric offering in some markets as it may have been  
at Wal-Mart in the past.

In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the community, Wal- 
Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in some stores to  
a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on life's  
celebrations.  We are thrilled to offer our customers this exciting  
new crafts and celebrations center that makes available craft and  
party planning needs along with information on current trends and new  
ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as holidays, weddings  
and birthdays.

In those stores where the new crafts and celebrations center is  
placed, merchandise commonly referred to as 'notions' will be included  
in the product offerings - such as sewing machines, yarn, needles,  
thread, etc.  As a part of this conversion, most of our new and  
remodeled stores that opened earlier this year, as well as a small  
number of existing stores, will feature the new crafts and  
celebrations center in place of bolt fabrics.  Wal-Mart will continue  
to carry cut fabric in most of our stores.  Due to the continued  
evaluation of our stores, we are unable to share a list of existing  
stores scheduled to receive the new crafts and celebrations center at  
this time.

Thank you,
Wal-Mart Customer Relations
 >
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From: "Joan Mielke Yost" <joan.mielke.yost@comcast.net>
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The SCA Board of Directors has requested that any 
questions/inquiries/requests from orregarding 'Wife Swap' be forwarded 
to Corporate, as the names 'SCA' and'Society for Creative Anachronism', 
and the arms, belong to the Corporation.Original message is 
here:http://community.livejournal.com/sca/657191.html?
#cutid1***********************
<Rest of message omitted>

Joan 

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Joan Mielke Yost wrote:
> The SCA Board of Directors has requested that any 
> questions/inquiries/requests from orregarding 'Wife Swap' be forwarded 
> to Corporate, as the names 'SCA' and'Society for Creative Anachronism', 
> and the arms, belong to the Corporation.Original message is 
> here:http://community.livejournal.com/sca/657191.html?
>   
Yes, but the SCA can't prohibit people from mentioning the SCA, and I 
doubt they are trying to do that -- just trying to be sure nobody says 
they're doing Official SCA Stuff without organization approval -- as 
that thread goes on to mention.  (That's my original post, yes, should 
anyone be curious.)

cv
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Joan Mielke Yost wrote:
> The SCA Board of Directors has requested that any 
> questions/inquiries/requests from orregarding 'Wife Swap' be forwarded 
> to Corporate, as the names 'SCA' and'Society for Creative Anachronism', 
> and the arms, belong to the Corporation.

In case it wasn't clear, this particular request is not for SCA members or 
re-enactors. Their angle this time is that they are looking for a family 
that's into historic costume (presumably any period or multiple periods).

I got a copy of the request too. It made my skin crawl -- I saw that episode 
with the SCA family, and it's pretty obvious it was a hatchet job. I can only 
imagine how this show would portray a family that enjoyed costuming ... as 
some sort of crazy cultists, no doubt.

People in historic costume groups outside the SCA, though, might think this 
request is legitimate. If anyone is on discussion lists for ICG or similar 
interest groups, if the subject comes up, I would strongly urge pointing 
interested parties to the experience of the medieval re-enactors.

--Robin

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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 21:53:44 -0500
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT? Victorian Stage Make-Up
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I don't know of anything online, but I have a small 1890's book about Theatrical Make-up.  Do you have specific questions?  I could 
look them up.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
   http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 16:46:38 -0400
From: needlethread96@aol.co.uk
Subject: [h-cost] OT? Victorian Stage Make-Up
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <8CAC6E5D2F2B5B0-109C-2209@webmail-db21.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi!

Does anyone know of any on-line sources for information on the make-up the Victorian
actors and actress used?around the?1890's ?

With many thanks in advance
Jayne

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In a message dated 8/7/2008 8:58:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
pasovasz@aol.com writes:

In  keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the community, Wal- 
Mart is  converting the fabrics and crafts department in some stores to  
a  newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on life's   
celebrations.  We are thrilled to offer our customers this  exciting  
new crafts and celebrations center that makes available  craft and  
party planning needs along with information on current  trends and new  
ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as  holidays, weddings  
and birthdays.



Ah, that is what our newish store here inside the Washington DC beltway  has. 
 Things like gift bags and such.  But it does sound like they  aren't doing 
that in ALL their stores.
 
Thanks for sharing.
 
Ann Wass
 
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
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PS
But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I will  be 
writing, too.
 
Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying  attention.  
 
I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we were all  
lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is because folks  
aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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People are still sewing in my neck of the woods, but a lot more careful
about waiting for sales. They are also concerned about fabric quality,
esp thread count among quilters. I think it is tied in more with the
economy--most people have been losing spending power in dollars earned
for a long time(hence Walmart, etc) and now the chickens have come home
to roost, so to speak. Fabric retailers are more and more owned by big
conglomerates that are more concerned with bottom line profits.
Consumers are buying a lot fewer clothes and I've seen more than one
back-to-school shopping kid throw a temper tantrum because Mom and Dad
are now shopping Payless shoes and Target(where I buy my own shoes and
have for a long time), instead of buying them expensive name-brand
shoes. Of course, I still see a lot of older kids buying multiple pairs
of Nike's or whatever(and wonder where the money comes from!)

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:58 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics

PS
But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I will
be 
writing, too.
 
Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying
attention.  
 
I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we were
all  
lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is because
folks  
aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000
0000017 )
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: Cactus <shirleyjhobbs@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot me!  :)

Cactus


--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:

> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 6:57 PM
> The reply to my Walmart messge about Fabrics:
> 
> 
>  >>Thank you for your message.
> 
> Dear Susan,
> 
> Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the fabric
> department in  
> your local store.  As with any merchandise decision that we
> make, we  
> have based our decision to reduce the stitching and fabric
> departments  
> on customer demand, which does not appear to be as high
> today for a  
> full stitching and fabric offering in some markets as it
> may have been  
> at Wal-Mart in the past.
> 
> In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the
> community, Wal- 
> Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in
> some stores to  
> a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on
> life's  
> celebrations.  We are thrilled to offer our customers this
> exciting  
> new crafts and celebrations center that makes available
> craft and  
> party planning needs along with information on current
> trends and new  
> ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as
> holidays, weddings  
> and birthdays.
> 
> In those stores where the new crafts and celebrations
> center is  
> placed, merchandise commonly referred to as
> 'notions' will be included  
> in the product offerings - such as sewing machines, yarn,
> needles,  
> thread, etc.  As a part of this conversion, most of our new
> and  
> remodeled stores that opened earlier this year, as well as
> a small  
> number of existing stores, will feature the new crafts and 
> 
> celebrations center in place of bolt fabrics.  Wal-Mart
> will continue  
> to carry cut fabric in most of our stores.  Due to the
> continued  
> evaluation of our stores, we are unable to share a list of
> existing  
> stores scheduled to receive the new crafts and celebrations
> center at  
> this time.
> 
> Thank you,
> Wal-Mart Customer Relations
>  >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 10:27:09 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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"Crafts and Celebrations" certainly sounds as iof it could be
Martha-related.

MaggiRos

On Fri, Aug 8, 2008 at 9:20 AM, Cactus <shirleyjhobbs@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
> Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
> department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot
> me!  :)
>
>
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
online bookseller
_______________________________________________
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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@surewest.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Wouldn't surprise me in the least. "Life Celebrations"? Yeah, sounds like a
Martha Stewart kind of label.

It's too bad really. It's not like they had a huge craft section to begin
with, but for people who may not have a regular craft or fabric store near
them (but usually have a Walmart, of course!) it was fine.  Unfortunately,
most of their sale table fabrics were icky, cheap polyester, but
occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least.

I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the target "clientele" and the usual
clientele of the store don't craft a lot or sew, so they are catering to
them. Why make clothes when you can buy Walmart's cheap, *hitty Chinese
clothes!

The Walmart closest to me has a fair-sized craft/fabric section, but the
next closest one to me has no fabric and only a very small crafts section.



                   .
                  /'
                 //
             .  //
             |\//7
            /' " \
           .   . .
           | (    \     '._
           |  '._  '    '. '
           /    \'-'_---. ) )
          .              :.'
          |               \
          | .    .   .     .
          ' .    |  |      |
           \^   /_-':     /
           / | |    '\  .'
          / /| |     \\  |
          \ \( )     // /
           \ | |    // /
             ! !   // / Joan Broneske
             [_]  |[_|  unicorn@surewest.net

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cactus
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics

Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot
me!  :)

Cactus


--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:

> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 6:57 PM
> The reply to my Walmart messge about Fabrics:
> 
> 
>  >>Thank you for your message.
> 
> Dear Susan,
> 
> Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the fabric
> department in  
> your local store.  As with any merchandise decision that we
> make, we  
> have based our decision to reduce the stitching and fabric
> departments  
> on customer demand, which does not appear to be as high
> today for a  
> full stitching and fabric offering in some markets as it
> may have been  
> at Wal-Mart in the past.
> 
> In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the
> community, Wal- 
> Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in
> some stores to  
> a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on
> life's  
> celebrations.  We are thrilled to offer our customers this
> exciting  
> new crafts and celebrations center that makes available
> craft and  
> party planning needs along with information on current
> trends and new  
> ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as
> holidays, weddings  
> and birthdays.
> 
> In those stores where the new crafts and celebrations
> center is  
> placed, merchandise commonly referred to as
> 'notions' will be included  
> in the product offerings - such as sewing machines, yarn,
> needles,  
> thread, etc.  As a part of this conversion, most of our new
> and  
> remodeled stores that opened earlier this year, as well as
> a small  
> number of existing stores, will feature the new crafts and 
> 
> celebrations center in place of bolt fabrics.  Wal-Mart
> will continue  
> to carry cut fabric in most of our stores.  Due to the
> continued  
> evaluation of our stores, we are unable to share a list of
> existing  
> stores scheduled to receive the new crafts and celebrations
> center at  
> this time.
> 
> Thank you,
> Wal-Mart Customer Relations
>  >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Maggie wrote:
> "Crafts and Celebrations" certainly sounds as iof it could be
> Martha-related.

I have seen the crafts and celebrations aisle. It's full of simple craft 
items for making invitations, baby shower and wedding tokens, and junk 
like that. I think there may have been some clothing embellishment 
items, like rhinestones and iron on patches.  I went there once over a 
year ago, and haven't been back,  the department didn't impress me. 
Frankly, it looked like the kind of cheap tacky plastic chinese crap 
Martha would turn her nose up at.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
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but
occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least.

Yes, I found an absolutely wonderful blue and orange plaid cotton once, just like a turn-of-the-nineteenth century madras.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Joan Broneske <unicorn@surewest.net>
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 1:31 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics



Wouldn't surprise me in the least. "Life Celebrations"? Yeah, sounds like a
Martha Stewart kind of label.

It's too bad really. It's not like they had a huge craft section to begin
with, but for people who may not have a regular craft or fabric store near
them (but usually have a Walmart, of course!) it was fine.  Unfortunately,
most of their sale table fabrics were icky, cheap polyester, but
occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least.

I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the target "clientele" and the usual
clientele of the store don't craft a lot or sew, so they are catering to
them. Why make clothes when you can buy Walmart's cheap, *hitty Chinese
clothes!

The Walmart closest to me has a fair-sized craft/fabric section, but the
next closest one to me has no fabric and only a very small crafts section.



                   .
                  /'
                 //
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             |\//7
            /' " \
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           | (    \     '._
           |  '._  '    '. '
           /    \'-'_---. ) )
          .              :.'
          |               \
          | .    .   .     .
          ' .    |  |      |
           \^   /_-':     /
           / | |    '\  .'
          / /| |     \\  |
          \ \( )     // /
           \ | |    // /
             ! !   // / Joan Broneske
             [_]  |[_|  unicorn@surewest.net

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cactus
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics

Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot
me!  :)

Cactus


--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:

> From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> D
ate: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 6:57 PM
> The reply to my Walmart messge about Fabrics:
> 
> 
>  >>Thank you for your message.
> 
> Dear Susan,
> 
> Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the fabric
> department in  
> your local store.  As with any merchandise decision that we
> make, we  
> have based our decision to reduce the stitching and fabric
> departments  
> on customer demand, which does not appear to be as high
> today for a  
> full stitching and fabric offering in some markets as it
> may have been  
> at Wal-Mart in the past.
> 
> In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the
> community, Wal- 
> Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in
> some stores to  
> a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on
> life's  
> celebrations.  We are thrilled to offer our customers this
> exciting  
> new crafts and celebrations center that makes available
> craft and  
> party planning needs along with information on current
> trends and new  
> ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as
> holidays, weddings  
> and birthdays.
> 
> In those stores where the new crafts and celebrations
> center is  
> placed, merchandise commonly referred to as
> 'notions' will be included  
> in the product offerings - such as sewing machines, yarn,
> needles,  
> thread, etc.  As a part of this conversion, most of our new
> and  
> remodeled stores that opened earlier this year, as well as
> a small  
> number of existing stores, will feature the new crafts and 
> 
> celebrations center in place of bolt fabrics.  Wal-Mart
> will continue  
> to carry cut fabric in most of our stores.  Due to the
> continued  
> evaluation of our stores, we are unable to share a list of
> existing  
> stores scheduled to receive the new crafts and celebrations
> center at  
> this time.
> 
> Thank you,
> Wal-Mart Customer Relations
>  >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
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Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot
me!  :)

Cactus

  Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. <G>    If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a mall....

Liadain



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
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When the department manager could order the bins at our Walmarts, they would
get in about 60% of the decent to good stuff like 100% raw silk, 100% cotton
brocade, brocades, jaquards...etc. Then when upper management took over and
didn't know what the customer wanted in the fabric section the stuff was 85%
crap. One of the stores still gets in the black fabric for the students.
Wal-Mart says that fewer people sew today but in my town, with two colleges
and one university, 5 different types of reinactment groups, two, soon to be
three high schools (though the 2 -3 yd. pre-cuts would work for them for
their HES/HE class), one children's theatre, Amish, several sororities, and
fraternities, we need more then just Jo Ann's who tends to lean towards the
quilter's and crafters side. New members of SCA who are students can't
always afford Jo Ann's and sometimes cannot wait for the sales. Since more
SCA events are camping, one needs to have more then one outfit so that their
ride to the event will let them ride home with them after the event. :)

De


-----Original Message-----
but
occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least.

Yes, I found an absolutely wonderful blue and orange plaid cotton once, just
like a turn-of-the-nineteenth century madras.

Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics
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The fabric department issue has been around long before Martha. Wal-Mart
goes by the bottom line, their reasoning is that "for the amount of time
that it takes for a sales person to cut and measure the fabric, in the
electronics department would have sold three items".
Besides, Martha doesn't seem to be the kind of person to make such a
request. Wally just picked their least profitable department (in their eyes)

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart?  Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise.  Just speculating, don't shoot
me!  :)

Cactus

  Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. <G>    If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a mall....

Liadain



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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Quick change artists
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This is definitely costume, but not historical, so this is OT, but I had to 
show this around. Or am I the last person to know about this? The video has 
been up for a couple of years:

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=RB-wUgnyGv0

Absolutely amazing. I think -- after replaying multiple times -- that the 
green one unfolds from the shoulders into the blue one, but I can't figure out 
the rest of them, and even with unfolding, I can't imagine how you could fit 
more than two or three in any one garment.

Whatever technology they use, I wonder if it could be used to create a series 
that takes you through time, e.g. decade by decade in the 1900s. (OK, so now 
at least this post is historical.)

--Robin

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Robin Netherton wrote:
> Absolutely amazing. I think -- after replaying multiple times -- that 
> the green one unfolds from the shoulders into the blue one, but I can't 
> figure out the rest of them, and even with unfolding, I can't imagine 
> how you could fit more than two or three in any one garment.

http://home.comcast.net/~x.watermist/Non.html explains how it works.

It's very cool, even if you know the secret. :)

W

-- 
*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear/
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  | 23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"----*
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their going
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Could it be the fact that they carry crap fabric in all the Walmarts perhaps be the reason, _why_ they are not profitable?
  Also that the people employed in the dept.are not fabric savvy?
  My local Walmart (la habra,Calif) has a woman who works there ,Rosetta,who literally layed across the cutting table because she was tired of cutting my order.I was making it very easy by purchasing the entire bolt,of most of the fabrics, and ordering 10 yrd increments of the ones I didn't purchase in toto.
  With employees like this who state "Aren't you done yet?" when you're trying to buy cloth, can run it into the ground.
  Plus buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for a core of saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1 table.
  Too bad,better fabric, more savvy people could give JoAnns a run for their money, as my JoAnn's has turned into a craft store with fabric as a side line.
  Melody

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  The fabric department issue has been around long before Martha. Wal-Mart
goes by the bottom line, their reasoning is that "for the amount of time
that it takes for a sales person to cut and measure the fabric, in the
electronics department would have sold three items".
Besides, Martha doesn't seem to be the kind of person to make such a
request. Wally just picked their least profitable department (in their eyes)

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart? Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise. Just speculating, don't shoot
me! :)

Cactus

Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a mall....

Liadain



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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 18:13:27 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.
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Driven all the independent fabric stores out of business within a fair sized
radius by low-balling them and now THEY go out of the Fabric business?
Seems typical.  Drive all other possible competition out and leave room only
for the cheap, Chinese stuff, made by people earning cents an hour with few
safety features, less health regulations, and outlawed unions.  This tends
to make the $1.00 a yard stuff too expensive.  Particularly if you are an
unemployed fabric maker in the Carolinas.  Might as well send .50 to China
and .50 to the Walton family.

I think I'll continue to praise the Powers that Be that Wal-Mart hasn't
succeeded in taking over Portland and environs (several towns around are
fighting it tooth and nail because of its eventual "buy from us or die"
strategy.  Pendleton Wool at $4.99 a yard, linen at less than that if you
know what you are looking for and are ready when the sales come up.

Wanda


>
> Today I was informed that since things have settled down,
> Wal-Mart feels it
> is safe to go ahead with it's plan to get rid of their fabrics.
> New Stores will not have the fabric dept. Some stores will phase out the
> fabric dept. and a few will have 2 and 3 yard pieces for sale.
> I was told at one store that they will no longer be ordering for the $1.00
> table. They have already stopped ordering replacement of many of their non
> sale fabrics, like satin.
> So if you have a Wal-Mart with a fabric department it will probably go bye
> bye by January 2009.
>
> De
>
>

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
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  I gave up on Walmart years ago.  There is never anyone around to cut the
fabric. That's probably part of why they are losing sales.  

Ron Carnegie



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 7:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their going
out..(imho)

Could it be the fact that they carry crap fabric in all the Walmarts perhaps
be the reason, _why_ they are not profitable?
  Also that the people employed in the dept.are not fabric savvy?
  My local Walmart (la habra,Calif) has a woman who works there ,Rosetta,who
literally layed across the cutting table because she was tired of cutting my
order.I was making it very easy by purchasing the entire bolt,of most of the
fabrics, and ordering 10 yrd increments of the ones I didn't purchase in
toto.
  With employees like this who state "Aren't you done yet?" when you're
trying to buy cloth, can run it into the ground.
  Plus buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for
a core of saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1 table.
  Too bad,better fabric, more savvy people could give JoAnns a run for their
money, as my JoAnn's has turned into a craft store with fabric as a side
line.
  Melody

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  The fabric department issue has been around long before Martha. Wal-Mart
goes by the bottom line, their reasoning is that "for the amount of time
that it takes for a sales person to cut and measure the fabric, in the
electronics department would have sold three items".
Besides, Martha doesn't seem to be the kind of person to make such a
request. Wally just picked their least profitable department (in their eyes)

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart? Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise. Just speculating, don't shoot
me! :)

Cactus

Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a mall....

Liadain



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My local Super Wally Worlds (we have 3) used to carry 90% good to excellent
fabric, then they decided to phase it out 2 years ago. So when the they ran
into opposition they started to carry more crap fabric. This ploy was to
discourage customers to go elsewhere so that they can eliminate the fabric
department. Most of the fabric sales people at my WWs are friendly and
knowledgeable.

De

-----Original Message-----
Could it be the fact that they carry crap fabric in all the Walmarts perhaps
be the reason, _why_ they are not profitable?
  Also that the people employed in the dept.are not fabric savvy?
  My local Walmart (la habra,Calif) has a woman who works there ,Rosetta,who
literally layed across the cutting table because she was tired of cutting my
order.I was making it very easy by purchasing the entire bolt,of most of the
fabrics, and ordering 10 yrd increments of the ones I didn't purchase in
toto.
  With employees like this who state "Aren't you done yet?" when you're
trying to buy cloth, can run it into the ground.
  Plus buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for
a core of saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1 table.
  Too bad,better fabric, more savvy people could give JoAnns a run for their
money, as my JoAnn's has turned into a craft store with fabric as a side
line.
  Melody

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  The fabric department issue has been around long before Martha. Wal-Mart
goes by the bottom line, their reasoning is that "for the amount of time
that it takes for a sales person to cut and measure the fabric, in the
electronics department would have sold three items".
Besides, Martha doesn't seem to be the kind of person to make such a
request. Wally just picked their least profitable department (in their eyes)

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart? Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise. Just speculating, don't shoot
me! :)

Cactus

Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a mall....

Liadain



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In a message dated 8/8/2008 7:24:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:

Plus  buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for a 
core of  saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1  table.



Well, in Walmart's defense, I have NEVER, EVER seen 1970s neon print knits  
on the $1 table in sotres I've been in--maybe that is their California  thing.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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I see it all the time here in Virginia


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 6:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their going
out..(imho)

 
In a message dated 8/8/2008 7:24:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:

Plus  buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for a

core of  saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1  table.



Well, in Walmart's defense, I have NEVER, EVER seen 1970s neon print knits  
on the $1 table in sotres I've been in--maybe that is their California
thing.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000
017 )
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Dianne" <goofy4@comcast.net>
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PS
But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I will  be
writing, too.

Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying  attention. 
 >>

I'm sorry to add to your disappointment, but that is a canned form letter 
that gets sent to everyone inquiring about the fabric departments going 
away. I got the same letter last year.

Dianne

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
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Feedback from a Friend says SHE got the identical letter, as well.

Susan


On Aug 9, 2008, at 10:03 PM, Dianne wrote:

> PS
> But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I  
> will  be
> writing, too.
>
> Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying   
> attention. >>
>
> I'm sorry to add to your disappointment, but that is a canned form  
> letter that gets sent to everyone inquiring about the fabric  
> departments going away. I got the same letter last year.
>
> Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I have a hard time when they give you a canned "reasoned response" about not
enough people sewing any more so they have to cut back on unprofitable
lines.  I live in a small city (Portland, Oregon)  I went to three of my
favorite fabric stores today on a quest to see where I could get what for a
specific project that hasn't quite jelled yet.  Big Fabric Stores!  Two
cater to home sewers, and one to crafters and sewers.  All were quite busy.
My favorite is Fabric Depot, nearly one square block of fabrics, home
decorator and notions.  There must have been over 300 men and women
shopping.  Granted, they were having a 40% off sale, but that's not an
abnormal number on a Saturday even without that.  I've even been there on a
week-day and there are usually at least 50 patrons wandering the aisles.

The second is a little Pakistani Shop that has fabric piled to the ceiling
and reminds me of Las Angeles, except that they don't bargain.  Just basic
shop size, but at least 14 people buying everything from 60" wide velvets to
1970's neon paisley :-) and everything in between.  This is also where I get
my cone thread (not made for sergers), stone and sequined trim, and other
shiny do dads.

Third was JoAnns Super Store.  They tried to move to the chintzy flat fold
table and their customer base went away.  They were left with a bit of cheap
cotton quilting stuff and lots of craft products.  The big sewing stores
almost wiped them out.  They put in decent fabric again to about 1/4 of the
store and got enough of their clientele back to keep going.  Surprisingly
enough, the better fabric they get, the more customers.  They had to put the
cotton quilters stuff in a separate area because the actual sewing fabric
with patterns and high end sewing machines (also lower end stuff) crowded it
out and made them more money.

Now, Portland has at least one more very large store - Mill Ends, (also
nearly a block square) that does a brisk business in fabric and notions for
the home sewer. From the person who is making new curtains, to the ones who
are making Bridal Dresses that last more than a single wearing to those who
want clothing that fits and flatters and is made from fabrics and colors to
fit their needs.

Portland also has a Pendleton Woolen Mills outlet with $8-10 a yard, what
you see is what you get fabric, and buttons by the bin (literally) full,
$.05 each.  They even have Ultra Suede (the good stuff) in a couple of
colors at $15.00 a yard.

If you want to cross the Columbia river you can find the other Pendleton
Woolen Mill outlet with the $3.99-5.99 and up stuff as well as clothing with
price tags that will give you a heart attack (up, not down).  I've gotten
woolens ranging from blanket weight/coat weight, to stuff so fine you could
pull it through a wedding ring; perfect for veiling since it seems to flow
like water.

These stores aren't here because Portland is some kind of a time warp town
where people sew their own clothes more than they do in Leavenworth, Kansas.
They are here because the people spend money.  They spend the money because
there are fabrics to buy that are more flattering than the Princess Pony
stuff you buy for your daughter's Halloween costume or a quilt project.
People buy because the stuff is available.

When the $1.00 a yard, flat fold table stuff drives the $10.00 a yard and
above suiting, silk, blends, etc. out, "because it's cheap" that's all you
will get.  The Wal-Marts of the world will wisely tell you that is all
people are willing to pay so that's all they stock and some people will
swallow the notion hook-line-and-sinker.

When real sewers see that all they can get at the store is junk except for
the occasional "find" they stop going and they stop buying.  Then the store
wisely tells you and your friends that "no one sews any longer and it isn't
profitable to handle".

It's a self-fulfilling prophesy.  Junk so bad (usually) that it isn't worth
buying because it will fall apart quickly, or not do what you want because
it is the wrong weight, or dead dinosaur (polyester) is too expensive even
at $1.00 a yard.

If your Wal-Mart has stopped selling fabric, there is a niche market waiting
to be filled by someone.  Unfortunately it isn't cheap to get started, but
it can be done.  We have a shop here in Portland that specializes only in
natural fabrics, and unusual pattern companies.  The prices aren't cheap,
but she isn't going out of business either.  In fact she often refers
customers to the other stores when she doesn't have exactly what they want!

For those who have been completely fabric deprived by the machinations of a
huge business...  There's the Internet; I hear the screaming now but it's
almost all that is left.

If you still have some independent fabric merchants talk to them, patronize
them, and good luck to you!

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:05 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
>
>
> Feedback from a Friend says SHE got the identical letter, as well.
>
> Susan
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2008, at 10:03 PM, Dianne wrote:
>
> > PS
> > But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I
> > will  be
> > writing, too.
> >
> > Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying
> > attention. >>
> >
> > I'm sorry to add to your disappointment, but that is a canned form
> > letter that gets sent to everyone inquiring about the fabric
> > departments going away. I got the same letter last year.
> >
> > Dianne
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Well said, and exactly what I have to deal with since I do not live in an area that has a specialty store, unless I quilt (which I do not).

I buy from the Internet, or travel to LA or other areas that do have the stores. I support as many of the independent vendors as my small budget will allow, and am thankful for their willingness to offer great services and great fabrics I cannot buy locally. I want quality, and I am willing to pay for the quality, and not the junk stuff. It is why I will not shop at Wally World unless I must. This applies to more than fabric. I just wish I could also support US makers of fine fabrics, and not end up in the imports, too... but that's a whole other kettle of stinky fish that I won't get into.

Kimiko


<snip>
> When real sewers see that all they can get at the store is
> junk except for
> the occasional "find" they stop going and they
> stop buying.  <snip>
> It's a self-fulfilling prophesy.  Junk so bad (usually)
> that it isn't worth
> buying because it will fall apart quickly, or not do what
> you want because
> it is the wrong weight, or dead dinosaur (polyester) is too
> expensive even
> at $1.00 a yard.
<snip>
> For those who have been completely fabric deprived by the
> machinations of a
> huge business...  There's the Internet; I hear the
> screaming now but it's
> almost all that is left.



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
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When this started last year I received a different letter. Perhaps they
learned from the letter they sent to me which was different because I posted
it to either this list or the SCA Garb list and it was used against Wal-Mart
in Arkansas when Wallies reps. tried to deny the closings.

De

-----Original Message-----
Feedback from a Friend says SHE got the identical letter, as well.

Susan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics--veering OT and a rant
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Even though it is a canned letter, that doesn't mean it wasn't a reasoned  
response, and it indicates that someone has done something.  One doesn't  always 
get any kind of response.
 
Sorry, I just get really tired of constant Walmart bashing.  I don't  work 
for them, don't own stock, etc.  But, to me, Walmart is the epitome of  the 
American experience.  Sam Walton started with one single Ben Franklin  store and 
went from there.  
 
I was disappointed when, in Mississippi, Walmart bought out Gaylord's and  
didn't put in a fabric department, which, of course, Gaylord's didn't  have.  
That was in the mid-1980s. I will be sad if they close ALL the  fabric 
departments, but the "canned" letter makes it sound like they don't plan  to do so, and 
I'll add my voice to others and let them know how I  feel.   

I've had an experience of needing a yard of ribbon at 11:00 at  night at 
Walmart and not being able to find anyone to cut it.  (Of course,  how many places 
can you even shop for ribbon at 11:00 at night?)  But I've  had a dreadful 
lack-of-customer-service experience at Hancock Fabrics,  too.  And the big local 
Super JoAnn's that opened in our area about ten  years ago got rid of all the 
great exotic silks and wools within a couple of  years--I assume they just 
didn't sell.
 
Alas, though, fabric stores in general just aren't doing that well, as  
people aren't sewing as much.  I can only get to NY once a year, at most,  and I 
don't want to shop for everything on line--I'm too tactile for that, so  I'll 
miss the local outlets if they all go away.  I live in the DC area,  and I have 
seen a great decline in variety at G Street (and I don't think it is  just the 
new generation running the place--I still think it boils down to PEOPLE  
AREN'T SEWING AS MUCH.  During the last sale, I went with my additional 25%  off 
coupon and had a hard time finding ANYTHING I wanted to buy.)
 
Okay, enough of my rant.
 
Ann Wass



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BTW, We have independent fabric shops in this area, and I shop in them once  
in a while.  The biggest problem with them is that they never seem to have  
heard of the Textile Products Identification Act.  Much of the fabric is  not 
labeled at all, so it is a crap shoot as to what one is getting.  Sure  I sneak 
a few fibers and take them out and burn them sometimes, but that isn't  
foolproof.  And the customer service in these stores is a real mixed bag,  too.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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Well,

Moda is now out of print and QEWU has not been retired as yet, so I would
suggest you get Moda, and then save again for QEWU. So while I think you
would gain some great information with that book as well.


Cilean

On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 11:00 AM, <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth? (Etiennette@comcast.net)
>   2. Re: Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth? (Etiennette@comcast.net)
>   3. Re: Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth? (00217146@bigred.unl.edu)
>   4. Re: Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth? (Maggie)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 16:30:28 +0000
> From: Etiennette@comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,   "Historical Costume"
>        <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <
> 080720081630.29487.489B2323000CDFE80000732F2213539653039A04019C0A07020E089F0A9B9C@comcast.net
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Hi there,
> Actually Moda is in both Italian and English (on the same page!! ).  I love
> QEWU.  If you are just starting out in this field, then I think that is the
> book to start with.
>
> Etiennette
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
>
> > Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is
> still
> > only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know
> what
> > you're looking at.
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> >
> > > My vote would be QEW. It meets your requirements and has just great
> > > fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard. The other
> > > book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.
> > >
> > > Sg
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Maggie Secara
> > ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
> > ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
> > Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your
> favorite
> > online bookseller
> > International readers may want to use
> > http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 16:30:28 +0000
> From: Etiennette@comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,   "Historical Costume"
>        <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <
> 080720081630.29487.489B2323000CDFE80000732F2213539653039A04019C0A07020E089F0A9B9C@comcast.net
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Hi there,
> Actually Moda is in both Italian and English (on the same page!! ).  I love
> QEWU.  If you are just starting out in this field, then I think that is the
> book to start with.
>
> Etiennette
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
>
> > Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is
> still
> > only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know
> what
> > you're looking at.
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 6:39 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> >
> > > My vote would be QEW. It meets your requirements and has just great
> > > fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard. The other
> > > book is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.
> > >
> > > Sg
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Maggie Secara
> > ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
> > ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
> > Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your
> favorite
> > online bookseller
> > International readers may want to use
> > http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu,  7 Aug 2008 11:40:09 -0500
> From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20080807114009.8laol0h5v8cowo4g@wm-imp-1.unl.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=ISO-8859-1;     DelSp="Yes";
>        format="flowed"
>
> All other things being equal, I would buy Elizabeth and save up for
> Moda next time.  Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe has more of the wonderful
> details about who made what and with what tools; it's more of a
> snapshot of Elizabethan clothing industry, with an emphasis on Royal
> clothing.
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am
> > hesitating between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe
> > unlocked. I've heard very good reference on both. I do not have any
> > special area of interest, so Florence or England are both
> > interesting to me, but I would welcome a detailed study with lots of
> >  large, quality photographs and also some tips on reconstruction
> > (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)
> >
> > If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Zuzana
> > ___________________________
> > Sartor...custom-made costumes
> > www.sartor.cz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 10:02:17 -0700
> From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <f7bcb0f20808071002l7cbe46afh29c38742f4fe0bd@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 9:28 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > At 17:21 07/08/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >> Also QEWU has the great virtue of being in English. I believe Moda is
> >> still
> >> only in Italian, which means great pictures but you may not always know
> >> what
> >> you're looking at.
> >>
> >
> > No, Moda a Firenze has one half of the page in Italian, the other in
> > English, so there is no difficulty with the Italian language. The
> pictures
> > are superb, and the text is very useful.  I would vote to save up and get
> > both! (Anyone going to Florence in November might find Moda the more
> > useful.)
> >
> > Suzi
> >
>
> Well darn! I wish I'd known that last weekend. Well, no, perhaps I don't. I
> got both the Court of Henry VIII book and (finally) roy  Strong's Cult of
> Elizabeth at Costume College, and that was probably enough.
>
> MaggiRos
> --
> Maggie Secara
> ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
> ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
> Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
> online bookseller
> International readers may want to use
> http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 297
> *****************************************
>
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-----Original Message-----
<Even though it is a canned letter, that doesn't mean it wasn't a reasoned
response, and it indicates that someone has done something.  One doesn't
always get any kind of response.>

De: This is true, most don't give a response but the "canned" response comes
across as impersonal and almost as if they're blowing you off.
I do not have a dislike for Wal-Mart, just some of their decisions.
I think that getting a bad sales clerk is a luck of the draw as I have
fairly good relations with my stores sales clerks. I know that Wal-Mart
fabrics help keep Joann's in check with their prices like Kmart used to do
with Wal-Mart before the local Kmart went away.
Staffing the fabric department isn't easy. As an employee you start out
needing to be a "jack of all trades" so that even if you are in one
department they want to be able to temporarily shuttle you to another if the
case arises.

<<And the big local Super JoAnn's that opened in our area about ten  years
ago got rid of all the great exotic silks and wools within a couple of
years--I assume they just didn't sell.>>

De: Joann's has their agenda but does need input from their "loyal"
customers so they can try to tweak the local stores if the tweaking doesn't
take it to far from the agenda and makes money for them. Always ask the
manager at a JA if they can carry something and they can always check it
out. The more people that ask for it, the more likely they will try to work
it out to carry it. It took 2 yrs but enough people asked for  linen that
they now carry a really good selection at my store. They can't get in the
white sheer 100% linen but they do have the cotton/ linen blend that works
great for Italian ren. camicia and partlet. Something that Joann's did after
several had suggested was having the holiday fabrics come out several months
early. X-mas fabric used to come out in October, now it starts in out in
July.

<<Alas, though, fabric stores in general just aren't doing that well, as
people aren't sewing as much.  I can only get to NY once a year, at most,
and I don't want to shop for everything on line--I'm too tactile for that,
so  I'll miss the local outlets if they all go away.  I live in the DC area,
and I have seen a great decline in variety at G Street (and I don't think it
is  just the new generation running the place--I still think it boils down
to PEOPLE AREN'T SEWING AS MUCH.  During the last sale, I went with my
additional 25%  off coupon and had a hard time finding ANYTHING I wanted to
buy.)>>

De: I think that the "aren't sewing as much" is a regional thing and maybe
there is sewing but sewing of a specific type.
Here in my town the Jr Highs teach HomeEc (or Human Environmental Sciences)
and their sewing projects are simple pillow, jockey shorts, handbags, tree
skirts....etc. The High school's HE sewing project is an apparel item(s).


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> Alas, though, fabric stores in general just aren't doing that well, as  
> people aren't sewing as much.

Is fewer sewers necessarily the reason?

I think part of it is that many fabric sales may be made on the net 
these days.  That's how I I've bought most of my fabric for several 
years. It's a lot easier when you work long hours--on the net you can 
buy fabric any time of day without taking the time to drive anywhere.

No, buying on the net is not as much fun as browsing a good fabric 
store--and the San Francisco Bay Area is blessed with numerous good 
independents. The tactile experience is missing, and getting swatches 
(which I seldom do) is slow. Yes, the color can turn out to be a bit 
different from the way it looks on my monitor. But I almost always buy 
fabric when I see it and decide what to do with it later, so I seldom 
run into problems with buying the wrong weight or color for a specific 
project.

I buy a lot of vintage tablecloths and trims on eBay and stockpile 
those. "Buy it when you see it" is definitely the best strategy for 
vintage items.

I only go to Jo-Ann's for notions, and then only because there is one in 
a mall a fairly short drive away. I've never set foot in a Wal-Mart in 
my life.  I try to stockpile notions too--I bought a huge lot of hooks 
and eyes, and similar things, in bulk from Greenberg & Hammer--but there 
are times when I need some different notion in a hurry. There was a 
quilting store a few streets over, where I could buy thread and hand 
sewing needles--but they went out of business.

I only see labeling problems at discount stores, the kind of places that 
sell garment manufacturer over-buys. There is a chain called Discount 
Fabrics here that only vaguely labels most fabrics--like putting up a 
big row of "cottons" that clearly includes some blends when you look at 
the fabrics. There is a Discount Fabrics near my dentist's, and I 
usually go there on the way home after having my teeth cleaned. It's an 
OK store, I've bought some good things there, but it's definitely a 
place for serendipity rather than planned purchases.  So why is it there 
that I usually go in person, rather than to the several much better 
fabric stores in the area (Britex, Poppy, Satin Moon?)  Because I don't 
have to make a special trip, I'm already practically there anyway.  And 
going to either Britex (downtown) or Satin Moon (in San Francisco's most 
congested restaurant district) is a parking nightmare.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


   I can only get to NY once a year, at most,  and I
> don't want to shop for everything on line--I'm too tactile for that, so  I'll 
> miss the local outlets if they all go away.  

<snip>
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Our local Wal-Mart pretty much specializes in tacky polyesters, so I don't use 
it much, and won't care if they cease to carry fabric.   In addition, I live 
near the Philadelphia fabric district, am within a 2-hour drive/train ride of 
the New York fabric district, and have access to plenty of on-line 
sources.  ;-)

It's my experience that Wal-Mart stocks better goods, and a better variety of 
goods, if it's located in a more rural area where people are more likely to 
depend upon it.  I could be wrong about that, though, as I haven't been to 
that many different Wal-Mart locations.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Friday 08 August 2008 5:03:37 pm Robin Netherton wrote:
> This is definitely costume, but not historical, so this is OT, but I had to
> show this around. Or am I the last person to know about this? The video has
> been up for a couple of years:
>
> http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=RB-wUgnyGv0

Incredible.  Thanks for sending the URL.
[snip]

> Whatever technology they use, I wonder if it could be used to create a
> series that takes you through time, e.g. decade by decade in the 1900s.
> (OK, so now at least this post is historical.)

I doubt it.  It looks to me as though all of the costumes (at least for the 
woman) are of extremely thin, drapey fabric. In addition, I saw no evidence 
of a change of underwear. I doubt you could get the right silhouettes for 
historical costume, even for the 1900s, with such fabrics.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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On Friday 08 August 2008 6:21:37 pm Wendi Dunlap wrote:
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > Absolutely amazing. I think -- after replaying multiple times -- that
> > the green one unfolds from the shoulders into the blue one, but I can't
> > figure out the rest of them, and even with unfolding, I can't imagine
> > how you could fit more than two or three in any one garment.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~x.watermist/Non.html explains how it works.
>
> It's very cool, even if you know the secret. :)

Thanks!  This is extremely educational.  



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny."--Edmund Burke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
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I'm reading week-old mail, so my appolgies if this has been linked already:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkpuxcNdGc0

video of wrapping a turban. There is another called 'how to tie a turban' 
that I didn't watch.

Denise 

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I saw this painting at the National Gallery of Art today and was  intrigued 
by the ridging on the under dress with it's parallel, wavy  lines.  Was this 
done by stitching, and if so, how?
 
_A  Young Woman and Her Little Boy - Image_ 
(http://www.nga.gov/fcgi-bin/timage_f?object=1143&image=2109&c=gg21)  
 
Thanks.  Just a fascinating painting, textile-wise.
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 

"If by a 'Liberal' they mean someone who  looks ahead and not behind, someone 
who welcomes new ideas without rigid  reactions, someone who cares about the 
welfare of the people -- their health,  their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and their civil  liberties -- someone who believes we 
can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by a  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14  September 1960




 



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Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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I've always had the idea it was pressing. Otherwise, I have no idea

MaggiRos

2008/8/10 <SNSpies@aol.com>

>
>
>
> I saw this painting at the National Gallery of Art today and was  intrigued
> by the ridging on the under dress with it's parallel, wavy  lines.  Was
> this
> done by stitching, and if so, how?
>
> _A  Young Woman and Her Little Boy - Image_
> (http://www.nga.gov/fcgi-bin/timage_f?object=1143&image=2109&c=gg21)
>
>


-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
online bookseller
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Similar partlet
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/97/Angelo_Bronzino_045.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/5bbalc

This could be pin tucking or a another technique that I am not familiar
with.

example of pin tucking or fabric origami(?)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/elelvis/sets/72157594523457921/
http://www.brother-usa.com/usaimages/AccessoryImages/Large/sa162.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/56arac

De
-----Original Message-----
I've always had the idea it was pressing. Otherwise, I have no idea

MaggiRos

2008/8/10 <SNSpies@aol.com>

>
>
>
> I saw this painting at the National Gallery of Art today and was
intrigued
> by the ridging on the under dress with it's parallel, wavy  lines.  Was
> this
> done by stitching, and if so, how?
>
> _A  Young Woman and Her Little Boy - Image_
> (http://www.nga.gov/fcgi-bin/timage_f?object=1143&image=2109&c=gg21)
>
>


--
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your favorite
online bookseller
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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It's not a costume related problem, but if any of you work with leather, maybe you have some suggestions for me?

Last weekend I reupholstered a chair with leather. It's nice, full-grain supple calf like they sell for making chaps.  It's smooth side up and reasonably easy care -- BUT -- I still planned to put some saddle-lac or other finish on it before we used it. 

I left Wed. to visit my mom and told everyone to stay out of that chair until I got back.  Well, no one sat in it, but my son and his friend ate tacos in the living room (grrrrr) and the dim-wit friend set his dinner plate on that chair. The plate must have been greasy on the bottom, because now there is a black half circle on the seat of the chair!  It looks just like someone set a wet paint can on the seat. 

Any ideas on how to get it off or at least lighten it?  As an absolute last resort, I might have enough hide left over to cut another piece and re-do it, but *damn* I don't want to do that again!  Not only do I not want to put even more work into the chair, I was hoping to use the rest of the hide to do the top of the ottoman.

grrrrr.... teenagers!

Denise B
Iowa
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Hey!  There are a bunch of 'em!  This one goes through several kinds....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbUyw3X1TcM&NR=1



> From: landofoz@netins.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 19:49:21 -0500
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
> 
> I'm reading week-old mail, so my appolgies if this has been linked already:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkpuxcNdGc0
> 
> video of wrapping a turban. There is another called 'how to tie a turban' 
> that I didn't watch.
> 
> Denise 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
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 From Horse Tack Care experience:

Only suggestion is to keep saddle soaping and oiling until all the  
leather looks the same color.  Saddles normally darken with age with  
this method, "blending" all the wear and tear into a "patina".

Susan


On Aug 11, 08, at 8:49 AM, Land of Oz wrote:

> It's not a costume related problem, but if any of you work with  
> leather, maybe you have some suggestions for me?
>
> Last weekend I reupholstered a chair with leather. It's nice, full- 
> grain supple calf like they sell for making chaps.  It's smooth side  
> up and reasonably easy care -- BUT -- I still planned to put some  
> saddle-lac or other finish on it before we used it.
>
> I left Wed. to visit my mom and told everyone to stay out of that  
> chair until I got back.  Well, no one sat in it, but my son and his  
> friend ate tacos in the living room (grrrrr) and the dim-wit friend  
> set his dinner plate on that chair. The plate must have been greasy  
> on the bottom, because now there is a black half circle on the seat  
> of the chair!  It looks just like someone set a wet paint can on the  
> seat.
>
> Any ideas on how to get it off or at least lighten it?  As an  
> absolute last resort, I might have enough hide left over to cut  
> another piece and re-do it, but *damn* I don't want to do that  
> again!  Not only do I not want to put even more work into the chair,  
> I was hoping to use the rest of the hide to do the top of the ottoman.
>
> grrrrr.... teenagers!
>
> Denise B
> Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Well, no one sat in it, but my son and his friend ate tacos in the 
living room (grrrrr) and the dim-wit friend set his dinner plate on that chair. 
The plate must have been greasy on the bottom, because now there is a black half 
circle on the seat of the chair!  It looks just like someone set a wet paint can 
on the seat. 

My sympathies.? You might try?a leather detergent cleaner or foam leather upholstery cleaner--like is designed for car interiors.? (And I can just hear your son--but mooooom, we DIDN'T sit in it!)

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 8:49 am
Subject: [h-cost] do you work with leather?



It's not a costume related problem, but if any of you work with leather, maybe 
you have some suggestions for me?

Last weekend I reupholstered a chair with leather. It's nice, full-grain supple 
calf like they sell for making chaps.  It's smooth side up and reasonably easy 
care -- BUT -- I still planned to put some saddle-lac or other finish on it 
before we used it. 

I left Wed. to visit my mom and told everyone to stay out of that chair until I 
got back.  Well, no one sat in it, but my son and his friend ate tacos in the 
living room (grrrrr) and the dim-wit friend set his dinner plate on that chair. 
The plate must have been greasy on the bottom, because now there is a black half 
circle on the seat of the chair!  It looks just like someone set a wet paint can 
on the seat. 

Any ideas on how to get it off or at least lighten it?  As an absolute last 
resort, I might have enough hide left over to cut another piece and re-do it, 
but *damn* I don't want to do that again!  Not only do I not want to put even 
more work into the chair, I was hoping to use the rest of the hide to do the top 
of the ottoman.

grrrrr.... teenagers!

Denise B
Iowa
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their
	goingout..(imho)
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their
	goingout..(imho)
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I noticed the fabric, um quality, in my local Walmart as well. When the
store first opened in my area, there seemed to be nicer fabrics. But
after a few months the quality(thread count)went down and some of my
friends that seriously quilt went back to JoAnn's, Hancock, Mangelsen's,
and a specialty shop that is expensive, but carries great quality
cottons. Now what is left(after practically closing down the fabrics is
like, eye-catching neon or bright bling, children's prints, and common
basic cottons.

As far as help, most of the time when I do go in for just embroidery
floss(and its been awhile, there is usually no staff around, rather a
"ring bell for service"

And of course, if any store selects merchandise that won't
sell(especially if you do it intentionally--some big businesses do), you
get a tax write-off and a reason to close down store or section. If you
have one buyer selecting all the fabric for a huge chain of stores,
there is not going to be variety in certain stores that have a track
record of selling or not selling fabrics.

Support your local specialty shop or shop smaller stores online.  I
haven't bought fabric in Walmart for a long time and Hobby Lobby seems
to be following Walmart's lead in carrying less quantity and lesser
quality fabrics.

But if anyone knows of a better Walmart or HL, do let their corporate
offices know and do support those stores.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 6:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their
goingout..(imho)

Could it be the fact that they carry crap fabric in all the Walmarts
perhaps be the reason, _why_ they are not profitable?
  Also that the people employed in the dept.are not fabric savvy?
  My local Walmart (la habra,Calif) has a woman who works there
,Rosetta,who literally layed across the cutting table because she was
tired of cutting my order.I was making it very easy by purchasing the
entire bolt,of most of the fabrics, and ordering 10 yrd increments of
the ones I didn't purchase in toto.
  With employees like this who state "Aren't you done yet?" when you're
trying to buy cloth, can run it into the ground.
  Plus buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make
for a core of saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1
table.
  Too bad,better fabric, more savvy people could give JoAnns a run for
their money, as my JoAnn's has turned into a craft store with fabric as
a side line.
  Melody

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  The fabric department issue has been around long before Martha.
Wal-Mart
goes by the bottom line, their reasoning is that "for the amount of time
that it takes for a sales person to cut and measure the fabric, in the
electronics department would have sold three items".
Besides, Martha doesn't seem to be the kind of person to make such a
request. Wally just picked their least profitable department (in their
eyes)

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in
Walmart? Wonder if that was part of her "deal", to get rid of the fabric
department to make room for her merchandise. Just speculating, don't
shoot
me! :)

Cactus

Mercy sakes, I hope not - already have to fight with Himself to go to
Kmart for something, just because he despises Martha so much. If we
can't go to Walmart either, that means a 300+mile round trip to a
mall....

Liadain



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One good thing about the lack of good local fabric outlets is that I'm finally working through my stash. When buying online I'm not at all tempted to go "Oh, just give me the whole bolt." My fabric bins all close now! 

Trying very hard to see the positive. :)

Mary
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-----Original Message-----
<<As far as help, most of the time when I do go in for just embroidery
floss(and its been awhile, there is usually no staff around, rather a "ring
bell for service">>

De: During the day the sales clerk is responsible for the craft section and
is probably either, helping elsewhere to restock or restocking the craft
section, on a break..etc. The bell helps staff know that someone is needing
help and lessens the need for a person to either run around looking for them
or having to scream at the top of your lunges for them.
At night they do not staff the fabric department so the bell is for those in
the nearby department.

<<Support your local specialty shop or shop smaller stores online.  I
haven't bought fabric in Walmart for a long time and Hobby Lobby seems to be
following Walmart's lead in carrying less quantity and lesser quality
fabrics.>>

De: I guess you hadn't heard. Hobby Lobby decided to down size last year. I
was told that they are looking at possibly eliminating the upholstery
section.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
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Just when you'd thought you'd seen it all.....

http://www.ratemyturban.com/



> From: wickedfrau@msn.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 06:17:09 -0700
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
> 
> Hey!  There are a bunch of 'em!  This one goes through several kinds....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbUyw3X1TcM&NR=1
> 
> 
> 
> > From: landofoz@netins.net
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 19:49:21 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
> > 
> > I'm reading week-old mail, so my appolgies if this has been linked already:
> > 
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkpuxcNdGc0
> > 
> > video of wrapping a turban. There is another called 'how to tie a turban' 
> > that I didn't watch.
> > 
> > Denise 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ...fabric stores going out of business
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otsisto wrote:
> <<Support your local specialty shop or shop smaller stores online.  I
> haven't bought fabric in Walmart for a long time and Hobby Lobby seems to be
> following Walmart's lead in carrying less quantity and lesser quality
> fabrics.>>
>
> De: I guess you hadn't heard. Hobby Lobby decided to down size last year. I
> was told that they are looking at possibly eliminating the upholstery
> section.

Hobby Lobby is a crafts, art supply and home dec shop. They never were 
very good for costume fabrics, at least in my area. Most of the stores I 
have been in across their core region of Texas and OK concentrate on 
quilting. The upholstery section is one aisle. With a couple of real 
upholstery shops in the area, with better selection and the option to 
have them do the work it's no wonder it isn't a big earner for them. But 
I think HL, like a lot of chain stores are individually managed, so they 
make decisions based on what is selling in their location.

We have a big discount upholstery fabric place less than a mile from the 
bigger of several HL here in town, and I noticed this morning that it 
has big "clearance" and "closing" signs all over it now.  And this is 
right in the middle of yuppie-ville and the kind of folks who re-do 
furniture every year or two, so my guess is upholstery is not doing well 
for anyone these days. The question is, do I take advantage of their 
misfortune and buy more fabric, or pass because I already have more than 
I need stacked in my sewing room now?



Dawn

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There is always merchanting at SCA events. :)
Sitting pillows for those with Persian/Ottoman personas.
Wall coverings to add to the feasting atmophere.
Fabric for those who don't have fabric/upolstery stores near them.
Or the famous reason to shop and buy, you never know when one might need
that type and that color of fabric and get it at that cheap o' price. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
 The question is, do I take advantage of their
misfortune and buy more fabric, or pass because I already have more than
I need stacked in my sewing room now?

Dawn


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
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On a happier note, I can report that while I was on vacation in  
Seattle last week I found a marvelous fabric store called Nancy's  
that would've tempted me to buy all sorts of nice things if I'd had  
room in my suitcase to take them home.  ;-)  And it was full of  
people on a Saturday afternoon!  'Though I admit there weren't any  
sales going on and that's what most people would be looking for these  
days....  I think the people in Nancy's were looking for specialty  
items like mother-of-pearl buttons and silk ribbon for special  
projects.  I bought a Sewing Workshop pattern -- I don't know of any  
place in central Iowa that stocks them.

Suzanne

On Aug 8, 2008, at 11:20 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
>
>
> PS
> But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response.  And I  
> will  be
> writing, too.
>
> Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying   
> attention.
>
> I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we  
> were all
> lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is  
> because folks
> aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you.
>
> Ann Wass
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:09:15 -0400
Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A. (Robin Netherton)
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Me, too!
Patty Rickard

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Christine Shamblin
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 12:39 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A. (Robin Netherton)

Looking forward to it!
I've already put it on my calendar.

You will let us know when the registration site for Oxford is up, won't you?

Christine Shamblin


--
"I'm a Material Girl...want to see my fabric collection?"
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Subject: [h-cost] Nancy's Sewing Basket in Seattle was Re: walmart fabrics
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Suzanne -

Glad you found Nancy's.  It is a really nice store as you say.

You may remember a few years ago a pattern line (they only made 2 patterns) 
called La Mode Bagatelle?  Well, you probably met the 2 women who made those 
patterns if you were in Nancy's on a Saturday.  Susan works in the Ribbon 
Room (at the back of the store, I hope you went in there) and Tamara manages 
the store.

Even though it costs a fair amount to shop at Nancy's I know I will get a 
good product every time.  And isn't my time worth good fabric?

Agnes



> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 21:14:17 -0500
> From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <79B440D6-0734-430E-9529-E64835E846CE@cybermesa.com>
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>
> On a happier note, I can report that while I was on vacation in
> Seattle last week I found a marvelous fabric store called Nancy's
> that would've tempted me to buy all sorts of nice things if I'd had
> room in my suitcase to take them home.  ;-)  And it was full of
> people on a Saturday afternoon!  'Though I admit there weren't any
> sales going on and that's what most people would be looking for these
> days....  I think the people in Nancy's were looking for specialty
> items like mother-of-pearl buttons and silk ribbon for special
> projects.  I bought a Sewing Workshop pattern -- I don't know of any
> place in central Iowa that stocks them.
>
> Suzanne
>

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I have received several different responses to how those wavy lines were  
done on the under chemise:  finely-stitched pleats/tucks and goffering with  a 
special goffer iron.  I've also been told by one person that the  reason the 
flat parts between the wavy lines are flat and not pulled out of  shape by the 
waves is that the flat parts are separate pieces of fabric that are  sewn to the 
sections that have been "lined", as it were.  
 
I am now somewhat confused as to how, exactly, this was done.
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL 
Kingdom of Atlantia

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Actually it is a partlet, shawl, or scarf, not a chemise. You can see the
chemise/camicia in the opening under the pearl closure.
It looks as if it is a scarf that is draped around the shoulder and the
flesable pleats allow it to lay down.

I have a hard time believing that it is several panels, just by the way it
lays. It could be pintucks and then the pattern could be woven into the
material. It could be something like smocking as it lays as if smocked.

Because we do not have the item, we can only guess at what it might be. All
we can do is play around and see if we get something close.

In the back of my mind I keep thinking about Fortuny and his Delphos gowns,
maybe a similar process.

De

-----Original Message-----
I have received several different responses to how those wavy lines were
done on the under chemise:


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Dear All,
=A0
I am a lurker and sporatic one at that, so I apologize if this has already =
been suggested--
=A0
I have sewn shaped pintucks by machine using a twin needle.=A0 Below is a l=
ink to=A0a child's dress using the technique.=A0=A0By clicking on the small=
 photos, you can see a larger version.
http://fwebb.com/children/budget.html
=A0
These are corded twin-needle pintucks.=A0 They=A0were stitched on white cot=
ton batiste and simultaneously corded with pink pearl cotton which=A0shadow=
ed through the white batiste.
=A0
I have also stitched wavy and scalloped twin-needle pintucks successfully o=
n silk dupioni and handkerchief linen.
=A0
For the first pintuck, trace the=A0shape using a water-erasable marker or c=
halk pencil.=A0 Follow your=A0 shape.=A0 At pivot points, stop with the nee=
dles down, lift the presser foot, gently pivot, then continue.=A0 The needl=
es twist slightly but straighten out when you begin sewing again.=A0 For ad=
ditional tucks, use the grooves in your pintuck foot just as you would for =
straight pintucks.
=A0
Twin-needle pintucks look different if=A0they are stitched parallel to the=
=A0selvage or from selvage to selvage.=A0 You can also change the depth of =
the tuck by adjusting your needle tension.=A0 My machine (Pfaff) has a litt=
le attachment that goes just in front of the=A0pintuck foot to make the tuc=
ks deeper.
=A0
Have fun experimenting!=A0 And please let me know if you have questions.
=A0
Thanks,
Frances in Virginia

--- On Tue, 8/12/08, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.c=
om> wrote:


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:34:41 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <BAY133-W49118CAD39087ED995E62ED2700@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"utf-8"

Probably, but in this case I think you'd have problems with the serger seam
showing through on the bottom.  The pin tucks appear larger than those made=
 by
specialized feet on most machines....  But the seam itself could be done wi=
th a
straight stitch...(but not too tight-might be too stiff)...and then pulled =
into
the scallop shape  by hand....

Sg
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Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 12:35:54 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral,
 Madrid Spain
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This is fabulous! Thank you  both for sharing this.
Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos
Cathedral,Madrid Spain


http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
 
My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy

Sg

Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.

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  Has anyone on the list laid hands on an extant 16th-century square-necked
ladies' smock?  If so, can you tell me how the neck is finished?  Facing?
Applied needlework? Rolled hem?  Someone asked me, and I suddenly realized I
have no basis in fact for how I "do" mine...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
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A friend of mine was able to photograph the Elizaethan era smock at the museum in Manchester last year.  I'll ask her and get back to the list.  

Ginni  

>>> Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net> 8/13/08 1:24 PM >>>
Has anyone on the list laid hands on an extant 16th-century square-necked
ladies' smock?  If so, can you tell me how the neck is finished?  Facing?
Applied needlework? Rolled hem?  Someone asked me, and I suddenly realized I
have no basis in fact for how I "do" mine...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 


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  Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find
out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits....

Liadain
Juuuuussssssst a little OCD....

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:18 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

A friend of mine was able to photograph the Elizaethan era smock at the
museum in Manchester last year.  I'll ask her and get back to the list.  

Ginni  


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In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a *" or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1" wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni


>>> Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net> 8/13/08 1:24 PM >>>
Has anyone on the list laid hands on an extant 16th-century
square-necked
ladies' smock?  If so, can you tell me how the neck is finished? 
Facing?
Applied needlework? Rolled hem?  Someone asked me, and I suddenly
realized I
have no basis in fact for how I "do" mine...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 


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You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of=
 one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
Thanks
Carol

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Chicagoland Co=
stumer's Guild=A0www.chicostume.org  Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.co=
m/group/costumemidwest/=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
	-	additionalinformation
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    Kewl!  So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless
this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would
note that.)  Why the slit, I wonder?  In the neckline?  Is the neck smaller
that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits?  And BTW, do you
know the approximate year of this smock?

  Thanks for sharing!

Liadain
Gonna start saving up for that trip to England...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -
additionalinformation

In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a *" or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1" wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni



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Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>:

>   Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find
> out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits....

Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page?  I think that  
there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there.  Or google for  
blackwork ..... (but then you've done that already, right?)

> Liadain
> Juuuuussssssst a little OCD....

nah.  I'm a little OCD.  I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to  
identify my Trillium pictures!

jerusha/ susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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  Haven't "been" much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!

L
And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>:

>   Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to
find
> out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits....

Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page?  I think that  
there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there.  Or google for  
blackwork ..... (but then you've done that already, right?)

> Liadain
> Juuuuussssssst a little OCD....

nah.  I'm a little OCD.  I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to  
identify my Trillium pictures!

jerusha/ susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>:

>   Haven't "been" much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
> Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!
>
> L
> And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!
>

Conservation of Textiles ......

ducking and running now,
jerusha/ susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Ginni Morgan" <Ginni.Morgan@doj.ca.gov>
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	cent	smocks/camiciae	-additionalinformation
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The shift is part of the Filmer Collection at Platt Hall in Manchester.  You can go online at http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections  and search the collection.  You need to specify "costume" in the main section and "linen" (for material) and "shift" (for item type) in the detailed search.  That will pull of a page on which this particular shift appears.  It is dated to 1560-1580.

Ginni

>>> Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net> 8/13/08 3:41 PM >>>
Kewl!  So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless
this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would
note that.)  Why the slit, I wonder?  In the neckline?  Is the neck smaller
that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits?  And BTW, do you
know the approximate year of this smock?

  Thanks for sharing!

Liadain
Gonna start saving up for that trip to England...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -
additionalinformation

In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a *" or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1" wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni



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  That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead
People thing...<G>
   And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college,
alas.



THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>:

>   Haven't "been" much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
> Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!
>
> L
> And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!
>

Conservation of Textiles ......

ducking and running now,
jerusha/ susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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	16thcent	smocks/camiciae	-additionalinformation
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  Thanks for the link and the tip - it always helps to know which magic word
will get you close to the actual item you want!

Looking forward to a lovely evening of museum-surfing,

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:26 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16thcent smocks/camiciae
-additionalinformation

The shift is part of the Filmer Collection at Platt Hall in Manchester.  You
can go online at http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections  and
search the collection.  You need to specify "costume" in the main section
and "linen" (for material) and "shift" (for item type) in the detailed
search.  That will pull of a page on which this particular shift appears.
It is dated to 1560-1580.

Ginni

>>> Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net> 8/13/08 3:41 PM >>>
Kewl!  So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless
this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would
note that.)  Why the slit, I wonder?  In the neckline?  Is the neck smaller
that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits?  And BTW, do you
know the approximate year of this smock?

  Thanks for sharing!

Liadain
Gonna start saving up for that trip to England...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -
additionalinformation

In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a *" or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1" wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni



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They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Carol Mitchell wrote:
> You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
> Thanks
> Carol
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr <fathallas@collinscom.net>:

>   That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead
> People thing...<G>
>    And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college,
> alas.

Yeah, well,  There's the GED and there's the "credit for life" kinda  
thing.  There's all kinda of ways.  As an open access institution, we  
can't turn anybody away with a GED.  They don't have to take ACT/SAT  
at all.

Susan, that professor person
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

Don't confuse the two businesses.

Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open and a 
thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, ribbons 
and all sorts of fabrics.

It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were the 
Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that was 
printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. 
http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/


Agnes

> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700
> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <48A3624C.7050009@lavoltapress.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
> Carol Mitchell wrote:
>> You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know 
>> of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
>> Thanks
>> Carol
>
>
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
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Yes, sorry. Nancy's Sew Basket carries our books.  One of the women who 
owns or used to own La Mode Bagatelle worked for Nancy's and has been in 
charge of placing orders to us for Nancy's.  La Mode Bagatelle also 
carried them at a vintage clothing show or two, but has not for some years.

Fran

Agnes Gawne wrote:
> Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
> 
> Don't confuse the two businesses.
> 
> Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open 
> and a thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, 
> ribbons and all sorts of fabrics.
> 
> It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were 
> the Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that 
> was printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. 
> http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/
> 
> 
> Agnes
> 
>> Message: 13
>> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700
>> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Message-ID: <48A3624C.7050009@lavoltapress.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>
>> Carol Mitchell wrote:
>>> You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only 
>>> know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
>>> Thanks
>>> Carol
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Jocelyn Hinkle" <scribe.ari@gmail.com>
>
> I was browsing the Kunsthistoriches Museum collection and ran  
> across this
> mechanical doll
> http://www.khm.at/staticE/page1808.html
> Mid 16th century
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That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
Sg



> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: melanie@faucet.net
> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
> 
> 
> 
> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> > From: "Jocelyn Hinkle" <scribe.ari@gmail.com>
> >
> > I was browsing the Kunsthistoriches Museum collection and ran  
> > across this
> > mechanical doll
> > http://www.khm.at/staticE/page1808.html
> > Mid 16th century
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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This lady shows up in some of the doll histories, but the photo and
blurb posted are about all that's included - if that much

alex

On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 8:32 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
> That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
> Sg
>
>
>
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> From: melanie@faucet.net
>> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
>> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
>>
>>
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>> > From: "Jocelyn Hinkle" <scribe.ari@gmail.com>
>> >
>> > I was browsing the Kunsthistoriches Museum collection and ran
>> > across this
>> > mechanical doll
>> > http://www.khm.at/staticE/page1808.html
>> > Mid 16th century
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
_______________________________________________
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It seemed familiar to me, but I don't know that I remember it being an automaton...  The fabric seems to be in excellent shape.
Sg


> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:42:01 -0500
> From: garbaholic@gmail.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 16th-century Mechanical doll
> 
> This lady shows up in some of the doll histories, but the photo and
> blurb posted are about all that's included - if that much
> 
> alex
> 
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 8:32 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
> > That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
> > Sg
> >
> >
> >
> >> To: h-costume@indra.com
> >> From: melanie@faucet.net
> >> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
> >> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
> >>
> >>

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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:52:24 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm pretty sure all the listings indicate that it's an automation,
though some don't go into much detail.  I've seen one photo from the
other side view but I suspect that it is a reversed photo.

alex

On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 11:28 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>
> It seemed familiar to me, but I don't know that I remember it being an automaton...  The fabric seems to be in excellent shape.
> Sg
>
>
>> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:42:01 -0500
>> From: garbaholic@gmail.com
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 16th-century Mechanical doll
>>
>> This lady shows up in some of the doll histories, but the photo and
>> blurb posted are about all that's included - if that much
>>
>> alex
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 8:32 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>> > That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
>> > Sg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> >> From: melanie@faucet.net
>> >> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
>> >> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
>> >>
>> >>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..." ;)
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Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path
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I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)	Am I too old to pursue this?
B)	What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)	Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)	What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)	Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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E)      Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

Don't call them hobbies (pay doesn't matter) - they're legitimate skills!
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Rickard, Patty wrote:
> E)      Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
> I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?
>
> Don't call them hobbies (pay doesn't matter) - they're legitimate skills!
>   
and start thinking in terms of 'creating a portfolio' (removing the 
'sort of' kind of thinking and the quotations around portfolio which 
make it seem like not a 'real' portfolio). check out the difference:
"I'll create a portfolio of my projects that showcases my skills"

I'm sorry I cannot advise you otherwise. Good luck!

liz young

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you...I appreciate your comments :) and you're right...I need to
change my "mindset" on it.

                   .
                  /'
                 //
             .  //
             |\//7
            /' " \
           .   . .
           | (    \     '._
           |  '._  '    '. '
           /    \'-'_---. ) )
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          ' .    |  |      |
           \^   /_-':     /
           / | |    '\  .'
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             ! !   // / Joan B
             [_]  |[_|  unicorn@surewest.net


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 12:32 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

Rickard, Patty wrote:
> E)      Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby
things
> I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?
>
> Don't call them hobbies (pay doesn't matter) - they're legitimate skills!
>   
and start thinking in terms of 'creating a portfolio' (removing the 
'sort of' kind of thinking and the quotations around portfolio which 
make it seem like not a 'real' portfolio). check out the difference:
"I'll create a portfolio of my projects that showcases my skills"

I'm sorry I cannot advise you otherwise. Good luck!

liz young

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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Ok, Joan

I'm 53 and have started over several times. You aren't too old unless you 
think you are, and isn't 40 the new 30?

The advice you've received so far is good, you must think of these 
attributes as skill sets (as indeed they are) and look about for a job that 
would utilize them.  Don't expect to translate them exactly. For example, 
you could perhaps begin as a receptionist/clerical person at a florist shop 
and train to do floral arrangements (a blend of creativity and practical 
office experience).  Or you could go directly into the artistic field and 
perhaps begin as a trainee for window displays in department stores or other 
retail outlets.

These are not meant to be specific examples, but rather examples of how you 
can stretch your imagination to apply what you do to practical ways to make 
a living.

I've been a costume designer for 17 years, a job that developed directly out 
of throwing Halloween parties and making costumes for my kids as they grew. 
I became the volunteer mom who did costumes for their shows and was good 
enough that the opportunity arose to turn it into a professional design 
career for which I feel very blessed.  I have semi-retired now to pursue my 
paralegal career (kid in grad school = necessity, pay is much better) and as 
a creative outlet have finally begun work on my long-delayed novel.  Writing 
legal briefs or discovery is hardly fiction, but I've done creative writing 
on the side for years.  Anyway, not exactly the point, except to say that 
one can find creativity in any endeavor if one is naturally creative.

Best of luck~

angela


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@surewest.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path


> I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on 
> this
> list may be able to point me in the right direction.
>
> Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding 
> my
> personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
> and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may 
> need
> to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
> costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
> elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
> things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
> always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no 
> college
> education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
> various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
> work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical 
> typist
> and retail clerk.
>
> I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
> these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
> really use some direction and assistance on is:
>
> A) Am I too old to pursue this?
> B) What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
> C) Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
> living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
> D) What types of schooling should I be looking into?
> E) Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
> I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?
>
> I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..
>
> I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
> end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.
>
> Thank you all for your time.
>
> Joan B
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Joan,

Here is my input:

> A) Am I too old to pursue this?
> D) What types of schooling should I be looking into?
Joan, you are never to old to pursue a career or go to school.  I went back 
to college to finish my degree at 38 yo with six kids at home.  I finished 
when I was 40 y.o.  I started my business in my last year of college.  My 
sister went back to college when she was 39 and finished at 42 and is 
teaching elementary school and going to college for her masters.  She was a 
stay at home mom and went back after a divorce.  Take advantage of student 
loans and grants to go to college.  If you move out of state, you may have 
to wait to establish residency to get in-state tuition.  Depending on the 
age of your children, you may receive state grants.  I receive state grants 
because I had three children under the age of 12 when I was a student.

One thing I always suggest is to have a good support system when at school. 
There are going to be times when you will want to quit.  Things will get 
crazy and you will think you can't cope.  You need a friend or family member 
who will give you that assurance and kick in the pants.  I joined h-costume 
when I was a student and a lot of members gave me a lot of inspiration.

The type of education you enter depends on what you want to do with the 
degree.  If you want to design clothing, do a fashion degree.  If you want 
to design costumes, go for a degree in costume design in the theater 
department.  There is a good program at FIDM.  I think it has a two year 
program.  There is also an online fashion degree through a Californian art 
school.  I can't recall their name.  You can also do their degree on campus.

Don't be put off that you are an older student.  I enjoyed being around the 
college age students and they treated me with respect.  I believe older 
adults take college more seriously because they see how you can apply these 
skills in the real world.  Take classes in everything that you are 
interested in.  Universities seem to be more accommodating to older students 
in this manner.  When I returned to school for my third decade, I had no 
idea that I would be doing what I do now.  But the other students knew I 
would.  My career evolved with the more classes I took.  I took classes in 
business, computers, costume design, fashion, and film depts.  I use all of 
this education in my business.  You can float between departments.

> B) What kinds of things could I do with these talents?

See above.  While you are trying to get into a college, you could work the 
Halloween season at a store like Spirits Halloween.  They love people who 
can build and make sets.  My son works as a manager for them every season. 
Right now is when these types of stores are hiring.  These stores are 
setting up right now.  Their season ends mid-November.  Contact info is on 
Spirits website.  Also, theme parks in our area have big Halloween events. 
If there are some in your area, they should be hiring crews about this time.

You can also work at a bridal or alterations shop.  You want to obtain jobs 
that will build your skills in the professional world.

> C) Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
> living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
The jobs I mentioned will help temporarily and pay more than $10 an hour. 
You might also want to check dinner theaters to see if you can be a 
stitcher.  In the summer check out your city's parks and recreations to see 
if they have plays in the summer.  You could be a stitcher for them. 
Universities theater depts. look for wardrobe managers and stitchers.  I see 
a LOT of theater dept. job posting on the email list 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumeinfo/ .  Don't be put off that it is 
USITT's email list.  Just lurk.  Earlier in the summer there was a 
discussion about how they are begging for stitchers and wardrobe managers.

> E) Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
Most definitely create a portfolio and include photos, renderings, etc. 
Don't make the portfolio look like scrapbooking.  Go to an office supply 
store and buy a professional portfolio case.  Make sure to organize the 
portfolio.  For interviews bring the portfolio and some of the costumes or 
garments that you have made.  The interviewer will want to see how good your 
skills are.

Good luck Joan.  When one door closes another one opens.  It can be scary 
and exciting!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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Joan, you're never too old as long as you're breathing!

You write:
>My great love over the years has always been
>costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
>elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
>things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
>always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
>education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
>various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
>work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
>and retail clerk.

First, think of college as a long-term investment. It may or may not give you immediate marketable skills by itself, but it will stretch you, wake up any slumbering brain cells, and open you to a wider world. Besides, if you are going to be thinking about things like costumes and sets, you need to know as much as you can about things like geography, architecture, history and cultures of the world. They will be your inspiration.

It also may be worth your while to start your search with a couple of sessions with a career counselor. Definitely take advantage of this right at the start if you are going back to school -- many schools have career services available starting when you enroll, including programs specifically for older students re-entering the work force. They will help you plan your education to make best use of the skills and experience you already have.

If you aren't ready to think about school yet, I'd still think it would be worthwhile to look for "re-entry" help at places like women's centers. There are many women now who do just what you're thinking about doing -- after time staying home with the kids and doing volunteer stuff, deciding to go back to school or work. There are nonprofits and paid services set up to serve people exactly like you.

Places that specialize in "re-entry" counseling can help you see all of the real, useful, *professional* skills you have been using and developing while you've "helped" as a volunteer: managing people, drawing up plans and time lines, running committees, assigning tasks, budgeting, shopping for materials, supervising other workers, soliciting sponsorships, recruiting and training volunteers -- all of that translates directly into the business world as essential management skills.

Consider a number of possible careers -- fashion and theater are obvious starting points if you're thinking about costume. But also consider others, especially if you like the "people parts" of the job as well as actually making stuff. For instance, there are whole companies out there that specialize in creating very theater-like "sets" for other businesses who need booths and exhibits for trade fairs, or table setups and banners for training seminars. *Someone* has to design, make, pack, ship, and set up all those tables, banners, background panels, signs, sample displays and so forth. Consider event planning: lots of people are happy to pay someone to organize their weddings and parties, or corporate picnics, or whole conferences. That can get you into everything from flowers and balloons to food to custom clothing to music and entertainment.

If you set your sights low, you are likely to fall into some career "traps", by which I mean careers that look appealing, but where you really have to fight hard to get the wages and the respect you deserve. Custom dressmaking is one -- many people have made a success out of it, but as I think this list can testify, many wind up working long hours for very little money, because customers often think they should get Yves Saint-Laurent clothes for sweatshop prices. Theater costuming is another place where we've heard a lot on this list about lack of respect, impossible expectations from management, no budget, unpredictable crises and low wages. I know there are good shops, but you have to look for them and be firm about what you will and will not accept.

Best of luck! You know this list will support you.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Put together a resume, with pictures, if possible, of your work. Pictures
are worth 1,00 words. One of the best costumers I've known was self taught.
I'm a stay at home mom who has done community theatre for the past 25 years
or so. While interesting and fun, it has not paid well, stipends usually
being in the "money for gas" range instead of the "making a good living"
range. You may be able to find a job at a community college or university
working in their costume or sewing departments. Again, I'm not sure about
pay range, but probably around minimum wage. You could start your own
seamstress business or maybe a costume sewing/rental business, but those
might be seasonal. You could sew wedding/bridesmaids dresses. That can be
very lucrative. I don't know if you're familiar with the TV show "Ace of
Cakes", but for those fancy custom cakes shown on the show, they START at
$1,000 and go up from there (according to their website.) Dresses take a lot
more time/effort, so that may be one avenue for you to explore.
I will add that you should remember to watch out for yourself during all
this. Medical insurance is a good thing to have. My friend got full medical,
dental and vision insurance for herself and her kids when she was working
half time at Starbucks! So, something else to consider.
All the best to you,
Sharon C.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joan Broneske
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:48 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)	Am I too old to pursue this?
B)	What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)	Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)	What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)	Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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I wrote:
>If you set your sights low, you are likely to fall into 
>some career "traps", by which I mean careers that look 
>appealing, but where you really have to fight hard to 
>get the wages and the respect you deserve. Custom dress-
>making is one -- many people have made a success out of 
>it, but as I think this list can testify, many wind up 
>working long hours for very little money, because 
>customers often think they should get Yves Saint-Laurent 
>clothes for sweatshop prices. Theater costuming is 
>another place where we've heard a lot on this list 
>about lack of respect, impossible expectations from 
>management, no budget, unpredictable crises and low 
>wages. I know there are good shops, but you have to 
>look for them and be firm about what you will and 
>will not accept.

Just to clarify, before I start a flame war: I don't at all mean that these are somehow "lower" careers! Many people have been very successful at them. What I mean is, if you set your sights low, AND you get into one of these fields, you are likely to have problems -- as others can testify -- if your low expectations lead you to accept pay that's too low and treatment that isn't good enough for how good YOU are. _That_ is the trap to avoid. You ARE good, but you have to believe it.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Aug 15 17:24:17 2008
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Oooh! Another idea! You sound like you might make a good wedding planner.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joan Broneske
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:48 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)	Am I too old to pursue this?
B)	What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)	Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)	What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)	Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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Joan

You are NEVER too old to try something new.  BTW, do you live in Roseville or Carmichael or somewhere else local?

Everyone has made excellent suggestions, however, both Chris and Sharon have mentioned some considerations that I would like to reinforce.

   1)  Check out the re-entry counseling available to the local community colleges (American River College or Sierra College or similar) or Sac State.  As Chris said, talking to them will give you ideas, even if you don't immediately sign up for classes.  I know Sac State used to have this type of counseling available.

   2)  You need a resume as well as a portfolio.  These both need to look professional.  Find someone who can take your experience as the educator, "office" manager, "facilities" manager, scheduling coordinator, cook, party planner, clean-up crew, gardener, repairman, etc., and translate it all into modern workplace terms.  I believe there are services which specialize in this type of resume, etc.

  3)  Look for a job with benefits, even if it's part time to begin with.  It will give you both some income/benefits and a job track record while you are either taking classes to increase your skills or looking for a better job in a more compatible field.

  4)  Even though the State of California has a hiring freeze on right now, you should check out the State Personnel Board website for job possibilities.  A simple entry level Office Assistant (Typing) position starts at $12/hr.  This would be a full time position, but the benefits are very good.  And, by the time you went through the testing, the hiring freeze should have been lifted.  At the very minimum, you would be eligible for consideration as soon as that happened.

While these suggestions are tailored for the Sacramento area, the basic ideas should work wherever you end up living.  Yes, this is a difficult time for you, but with perseverance and creativity, you can make a place for yourself.  If you would like to talk to me directly, send me an e-mail off list and I'll send you my phone number.  Good luck.

Ginni Morgan
Sacramento, CA


>>> Joan Broneske <unicorn@surewest.net> 8/15/08 11:47 AM >>>
I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)	Am I too old to pursue this?
B)	What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)	Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)	What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)	Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Everyone has provided good suggestions.   Just one caveat:   you may 
not make a living wage at theatrical costuming, but if you can 
supplement your income with some of the other ideas people have had, 
sewing, wedding planning, etc, you might do ok.   I also think it is 
important to live in a city that has a lot of paying job opportunities 
in your field, and there aren't too many of those, outside of Los 
Angeles, New York, Chicago and maybe a few more I'm not aware of.   I 
live in the Denver area and paying jobs for costume designers are few 
and far between.

I think you also need to be prepared to travel for short term jobs, 
especially in the summer, when there are lots of theatres hiring.

I don't think your age is a drawback at all.   The 40s are not old 
anymore, in my opinion.   If you choose to go to school and get a 
degree in theatrical costume design or construction, I would definitely 
think about relocating to one of the big cities where there are more 
opportunities.   And I would try to get  jobs in summer stock theatres 
that work with big name designers and try to be an assistant.   Working 
for a regional theatre designer is the best experience ever.  Regional 
theatre pays the best, outside of Broadway and the movie industry, but 
it is a very closed field and takes contacts to work into.

Sylvia

On Aug 15, 2008, at 12:47 PM, Joan Broneske wrote:

> I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people 
> on this
> list may be able to point me in the right direction.
>
> Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances 
> surrounding my
> personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 
> 44
> and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I 
> may need
> to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
> costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, 
> putting on
> elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays 
> and
> things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
> always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no 
> college
> education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years 
> in
> various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no 
> real
> work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical 
> typist
> and retail clerk.
>
> I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
> these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I 
> could
> really use some direction and assistance on is:
>
> A)	Am I too old to pursue this?
> B)	What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
> C)	Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
> living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
> D)	What types of schooling should I be looking into?
> E)	Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
> I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?
>
> I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..
>
> I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I 
> may
> end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.
>
> Thank you all for your time.
>
> Joan B
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Dianora di Cellini" <dicellini@gmail.com>
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Just to follow up on what some others have said - you're never too old!

After 25 years as a secretary, at age 46 I went back to school, got my
masters, and now I'm a college professor. In the last 5 years I've earned
that masters degree and I'm half way through a Ph.D. My husband lost his job
a few years age and decided to give school a shot - and now he's getting
ready to graduate in May at age 40. But if you choose to go to school, make
sure it's something you love!

Dee
-- 
Dianora Lizabetta di Vittori di Cellini
House di Cellini
Amore et Onore: Nient'altro Importa
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From: "Joan Mielke" <joan.mielke.yost@comcast.net>
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Status: RO

I am in a similar position--restarting my education and looking for new
employment at 40.

It may take you a while to discover whether you want to pursue a college
degree or certificate or whether you want to do something else.  In the
meantime, check out your local community college, if there is one, and
through their advising center find out what basic classes you should take if
you are interested in a college education.  They probably have some
placement tests that you can take in English and math and they also may
offer some aptitude or interest evaluations.  Basic math and English classes
are courses you will probably be required to take no matter where you go or
what decide to do.  You could also consider introduction to art,
introduction to psychology and introduction to business.  Introduction to
theater would be good too, if it is offered. Many schools also have classes
that orient you to what college is and what skills you need to succeed in
college.

Best wishes in whatever you do!
Joan

 

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Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For all of your replies...you have all been
very, VERY helpful and have given me a lot to think about.

I think I will start out by creating a portfolio...I've already begun
collecting photos onto my computer of my stuff.

As for family/friends support...that was part of the reason I may end up in
either NY (not near the city) or NC...I have parents in NY and a sister in
NC. Since things are still "up in the air" at present, I haven't made a
decision either way. More than likely I won't be staying in California
because of the situation, not really having that support and the sheer cost
of living here. That kind of also complicates the issue of "living in a
city" where these kinds of jobs are available. I don't really relish the
idea of living in a city, and ESPECIALLY not in LA, Chicago or NY...LOL! I'm
a small town girl and large cities make me nervous and paranoid.

I have two boys, but my oldest is 20 (so I don't have to worry about him)
and my youngest is just about 14....so it's not like I have small children,
thank God.

I never thought about being a Wedding Planner....I will have to look into
that. Thanks for the suggestion!  

Ginni, I am in Roseville; however, I may not be staying here...not sure at
this point. I appreciate your offer and will keep it in mind.

Right now, I'm just kind of preparing for the worst in my situation and
gathering information.

I am going to print out all of your responses and keep them with me....thank
you and thank you for the support and encouragement!

                   .
                  /'
                 //
             .  //
             |\//7
            /' " \
           .   . .
           | (    \     '._
           |  '._  '    '. '
           /    \'-'_---. ) )
          .              :.'
          |               \
          | .    .   .     .
          ' .    |  |      |
           \^   /_-':     /
           / | |    '\  .'
          / /| |     \\  |
          \ \( )     // /
           \ | |    // /
             ! !   // / Joan Broneske
             [_]  |[_|  unicorn@surewest.net

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joan Mielke
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 5:20 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

I am in a similar position--restarting my education and looking for new
employment at 40.

It may take you a while to discover whether you want to pursue a college
degree or certificate or whether you want to do something else.  In the
meantime, check out your local community college, if there is one, and
through their advising center find out what basic classes you should take if
you are interested in a college education.  They probably have some
placement tests that you can take in English and math and they also may
offer some aptitude or interest evaluations.  Basic math and English classes
are courses you will probably be required to take no matter where you go or
what decide to do.  You could also consider introduction to art,
introduction to psychology and introduction to business.  Introduction to
theater would be good too, if it is offered. Many schools also have classes
that orient you to what college is and what skills you need to succeed in
college.

Best wishes in whatever you do!
Joan

 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 309
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Quoting Dianora di Cellini <dicellini@gmail.com>:

> Just to follow up on what some others have said - you're never too old!
>
> After 25 years as a secretary, at age 46 I went back to school, got my
> masters, and now I'm a college professor. In the last 5 years I've earned
> that masters degree and I'm half way through a Ph.D. My husband lost his job
> a few years age and decided to give school a shot - and now he's getting
> ready to graduate in May at age 40. But if you choose to go to school, make
> sure it's something you love!

Well, Dee, you've got me beat.  I started Grad SChool at 40 and  
finished my PhD last summer at 54.  :-)

Jerusha/ susan (also now a college prof!)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Joan,

I forgot a couple of possibilities...
If you are in a city that the Broadway plays tours, they hire local dressers 
and stitchers.  My 4th son does lighting.  We couldn't find out who was in 
charge at one of the venues that has the tours.  I dropped him off at the 
venue a day before a Broadway show.  He walked in and kept asking who was in 
charge until he found the right person.  This opened the door wide for him. 
The crews move from venue to venue.  It is hard to catch up with the crew 
chief.  Sometimes, the crew chief is at several venues in one day.  Each 
city here in Virginia have a different local for the union.  My son works in 
VA Beach, Richmond (four venues), University of Virginia, ODU, Virginia 
Commonwealth University, and was just hired permanently for the DC area. 
The Stage-hand Union that he works for includes costuming.  He works all 
sorts of shows from country to rock concerts, WWE (wrestling), Cirque du 
Soleil, Dancing w/ Stars and American Idol tours, ice shows, conventions, 
etc.  All need dressers and stitchers.  Cirque begs for costumers 
year-round, 
http://www.cirquedusoleil.com/CirqueDuSoleil/en/jobs/offstage/recruitsoft.htm . 
If this site doesn't show costuming/wardrobe, let me know.  My son has the 
direct link for crew members.  The last time my son checked, they were 
looking for costumers for their Vegas shows.  Also Ringling Bros. technical 
crews are based Palmetto, Florida (next door to my sister's house) and 
Northern VA.

The gig he has in DC sounds like what others are suggesting for you.  He is 
setting up events for conventions at different venues in the DC area.  It is 
a full time job...so full-time, it is 60-80 hours a week at $32 an hour. 
Convention is a huge industry.  If you can get in a location that hosts big 
conventions, you can do well.  I have watched my son working a convention 
and it amazes me how many people are required for the set-up.   He is 23 
years old and has been setting up and loading out conventions, here and 
there, since he was 19.  You don't need a lot of experience to work the 
conventions.

My son has brought all his friends and two of his brothers into working all 
these jobs. Some work full-time and others part-time when they need extra 
money.  One of the main qualifications the unions are look for is safety 
conscious people..safety for all...themselves, other employees, performers, 
and the audience.  Safety is first in the business.  Some Stage-hand Union 
locals offer in Virginia offer insurance, some don't.  This varies from 
state-to-state, area-to-area.  Some states and venues require the insurance. 
Others only have insurance on you while working the gig.

If you can get a film commission directory from your state or the state you 
are interested in moving to; you will find a listing of all kinds of 
entertainment industry businesses.   It is amazing all the different types 
of businesses involved that work all fields in world of entertainment.  My 
suggestion is to read through it the listings and select the businesses that 
you want to send resumes.  Remember that the majority of the businesses do 
other genres besides film.

The casino industry is in several states.  Some casino areas look for full 
and part-time costumers for shows.  It not just Vegas and Atlantic City for 
casinos anymore.  My niece was working for a casino in Biloxi, MS until 
Hurricane Katrina moved her casino across the highway.  The company moved 
her to a casino in Nebraska.  They transferred her back to MS last month. 
Shows in casinos are a big part of their industry.  My youngest son goes to 
University of Southern Mississippi and they have a undergrad degree in 
casino gaming industry.

Think of it this way, the world is your oyster and you are the pearl!  Good 
luck and keep us updated.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 20:22:30 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Penny,
I did a costume job search with Cirque and came up with nothing.   I'd  
love to go work with them for awhile.

Sylviz

On Aug 15, 2008, at 8:00 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Joan,
>
> I forgot a couple of possibilities...
> If you are in a city that the Broadway plays tours, they hire local  
> dressers and stitchers.  My 4th son does lighting.  We couldn't find  
> out who was in charge at one of the venues that has the tours.  I  
> dropped him off at the venue a day before a Broadway show.  He walked  
> in and kept asking who was in charge until he found the right person.   
> This opened the door wide for him. The crews move from venue to venue.  
>  It is hard to catch up with the crew chief.  Sometimes, the crew  
> chief is at several venues in one day.  Each city here in Virginia  
> have a different local for the union.  My son works in VA Beach,  
> Richmond (four venues), University of Virginia, ODU, Virginia  
> Commonwealth University, and was just hired permanently for the DC  
> area. The Stage-hand Union that he works for includes costuming.  He  
> works all sorts of shows from country to rock concerts, WWE  
> (wrestling), Cirque du Soleil, Dancing w/ Stars and American Idol  
> tours, ice shows, conventions, etc.  All need dressers and stitchers.   
> Cirque begs for costumers year-round,  
> http://www.cirquedusoleil.com/CirqueDuSoleil/en/jobs/offstage/ 
> recruitsoft.htm . If this site doesn't show costuming/wardrobe, let me  
> know.  My son has the direct link for crew members.  The last time my  
> son checked, they were looking for costumers for their Vegas shows.   
> Also Ringling Bros. technical crews are based Palmetto, Florida (next  
> door to my sister's house) and Northern VA.
>
> The gig he has in DC sounds like what others are suggesting for you.   
> He is setting up events for conventions at different venues in the DC  
> area.  It is a full time job...so full-time, it is 60-80 hours a week  
> at $32 an hour. Convention is a huge industry.  If you can get in a  
> location that hosts big conventions, you can do well.  I have watched  
> my son working a convention and it amazes me how many people are  
> required for the set-up.   He is 23 years old and has been setting up  
> and loading out conventions, here and there, since he was 19.  You  
> don't need a lot of experience to work the conventions.
>
> My son has brought all his friends and two of his brothers into  
> working all these jobs. Some work full-time and others part-time when  
> they need extra money.  One of the main qualifications the unions are  
> look for is safety conscious people..safety for all...themselves,  
> other employees, performers, and the audience.  Safety is first in the  
> business.  Some Stage-hand Union locals offer in Virginia offer  
> insurance, some don't.  This varies from state-to-state, area-to-area.  
>  Some states and venues require the insurance. Others only have  
> insurance on you while working the gig.
>
> If you can get a film commission directory from your state or the  
> state you are interested in moving to; you will find a listing of all  
> kinds of entertainment industry businesses.   It is amazing all the  
> different types of businesses involved that work all fields in world  
> of entertainment.  My suggestion is to read through it the listings  
> and select the businesses that you want to send resumes.  Remember  
> that the majority of the businesses do other genres besides film.
>
> The casino industry is in several states.  Some casino areas look for  
> full and part-time costumers for shows.  It not just Vegas and  
> Atlantic City for casinos anymore.  My niece was working for a casino  
> in Biloxi, MS until Hurricane Katrina moved her casino across the  
> highway.  The company moved her to a casino in Nebraska.  They  
> transferred her back to MS last month. Shows in casinos are a big part  
> of their industry.  My youngest son goes to University of Southern  
> Mississippi and they have a undergrad degree in casino gaming  
> industry.
>
> Think of it this way, the world is your oyster and you are the pearl!   
> Good luck and keep us updated.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeslideshows.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Sylvia,

When my son gets back home tomorrow, I will get the link from him.  He is 
working a show at VA Beach right now.  He will pass out when he gets in 
early in the morning from the gig.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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I did a Google search for the Las Vegas Jobs:
http://www.simplyhired.com/a/jobs/list/q-WARDROBE+ATTENDANT/l-Las+Vegas%2C+NV

The "Love" show is supposed to be wonderful!  The house was designed for the 
show.

Here is the Cirque employment site:
keyword wardrobe:
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl
keyword: costume
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl

Bookmark this page and check back frequently.  The jobs change often.
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl

Good luck and let us know how it goes.  Every time my son works the Cirque 
he is so thrilled creatively!  He talks about it for days and states that 
Cirque is always his favorite shows to work.  Here's hoping you get to know 
that thrill!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

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It's already been said, but let me, too, encourage you to go back to school  
and start accumulating your basic classes.  The community college system is  
California is, of course, top notch.  Get all your general ed courses out  of 
the way, like math, lab science (I recommend chemistry if you are going to do  
something costume/textiles related), sociology, psychology, history (Modern  
European is probably good if you have an interest in costume history), and  
economics.  Sounds like you may already have your English requirements  
satisfied.  That introduction to theater is a good suggestion, too.
 
I didn't get my dream job until I turned 50.  Got the degrees, but  then 
knocked around for awhile.  Where I am now, I was a volunteer for two  years, then 
part-time, non-career, no benefits, for five years, but finally have  a full 
time professional position with great benefits and I love the work!
 
Best of luck to you.
 
Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
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Only just saw this because I've just finished a killer week costuming (my  
fault - took on extra work as a favour).
 
I can't be that specific, obviously, because I'm in a different country  
(UK), so there will be differences in how things are set up, how they work,  etc.
 
But, my take would be...
 
 
"A)    Am I too old to pursue this?"
 
You're not too old till you're dead.
 

"B)    What kinds of things could I do with these  talents?"
 
What do you want to do?  I find the only limit is my imagination, and  my 
guts (as in whether I have enough or not  :o)   ).
 

"C)    Would I be able to pursue something which I could make  a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)"
 
Can't properly answer that, cos of the country thing - but I do (am a  
costumer and dressmaker/designer).  'Tis hard work though - but a lot of  that's 
down to me, and my habit of taking extra jobs if they're interesting (low  
boredom threshold - gets me every time).
 

"D)    What types of schooling should I be looking into?  "
 
Depends what you decide you want to do.  For some things it's  doubtless that 
the qualifications will be a requirement - but they're not  necessary for 
everything if you have the skills (and can prove you have  them).
Although studying is naturally about much more, qualifications are, at the  
end of the day, about proving you have certain skills.  If you can already  
prove that, then they're less important in some walks.
 

"E)    Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of  the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?"
 
Completely.
But as others have said - ditch the quote marks, and the word hobby.
Start calling it work right now.  Makes no difference if you get paid  for it 
or not - your work is still your work.
But I haven't had a written C.V. (resume) since I was looking for an office  
job a decade ago.  Every piece of work I get comes from my portfolio (be it  
book or online), and word of mouth.
 
 
 
Personally, I studied fashion (but left early - hated course), dithered a  
bit (hence the office job), costuming part time all the while, till I decided I  
wanted to make clothes full time (and had the workload to justify quitting 
the  day job), then I started, working from home (still do at the moment, 
although  that looks set to change shortly).
 
Now I make assorted clothes and costumes for museums, re-enactors,  weddings, 
tv - whoever wants them really!  
 
As I said, I left college early, so I have no formal qualifications  
associated to what I do (other than on in theatre, which is sort of related, but  not 
100% relevant).  Not really an issue in what I do, because I have my  
portfolio, and dozens of pictures to prove I can do what I say I can.  Also  because I 
set up on my own - I don't have a boss, and I don't have to go for  
interviews.  Anyway, the lack of quals hasn't hindered me (eg, I just  delivered an 
order for the Tower of London) - but that's probably  because I went my own way.
 
I just thought - if you don't have a reasonable camera (digital  preferably, 
cos it's cheaper (no developing)), get one, and photograph every  single thing 
you make, no matter how large or small.  It'll all fill out  your portfolio - 
you can ditch the smaller / less impressive ones as you  accumulate more.
 
But good luck!
 
 
 
 
 
 



   
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I've noticed that Hobby Lobby runs weekly specials on fabric and frequently=
, patterns. If you're having problems with the other stores and have a Hobb=
y Lobby in your area, you might want to check it out. I don't know whether =
they sell fabric on-line, or if you'd be willing to buy it if they did, but=
 it's a potential resource.
Carol Mitchell

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Chicagoland Co=
stumer's Guild=A0www.chicostume.org  Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.co=
m/group/costumemidwest/=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =


--- On Sat, 8/16/08, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.c=
om> wrote:
From: h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com>
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 311
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 1:00 PM

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	h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Cirque (Penny Ladnier)
   2. Re: Cirque Wardrobe Jobs (Penny Ladnier)
   3. Re: Question regarding career path (AnnBWass@aol.com)
   4. Re: Question regarding career path (Debloughcostumes@aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 22:32:48 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cirque
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c8ff48$60b10040$6701a8c0@momlaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=3Dflowed; charset=3D"iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=3Dresponse

Sylvia,

When my son gets back home tomorrow, I will get the link from him.  He is =

working a show at VA Beach right now.  He will pass out when he gets in =

early in the morning from the gig.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 00:02:33 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cirque Wardrobe Jobs
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <005001c8ff54$ea1a7f80$6701a8c0@momlaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=3Dflowed; charset=3D"iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=3Dresponse

I did a Google search for the Las Vegas Jobs:
http://www.simplyhired.com/a/jobs/list/q-WARDROBE+ATTENDANT/l-Las+Vegas%2C+=
NV

The "Love" show is supposed to be wonderful!  The house was designed
for the =

show.

Here is the Cirque employment site:
keyword wardrobe:
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl
keyword: costume
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl

Bookmark this page and check back frequently.  The jobs change often.
http://cirquedusoleil.taleo.net/careersection/2/jobdetail.ftl

Good luck and let us know how it goes.  Every time my son works the Cirque =

he is so thrilled creatively!  He talks about it for days and states that =

Cirque is always his favorite shows to work.  Here's hoping you get to know

that thrill!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 06:21:34 EDT
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <bb8.35ddf982.35d8042e@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII"

It's already been said, but let me, too, encourage you to go back to school
 =

and start accumulating your basic classes.  The community college system is=
  =

California is, of course, top notch.  Get all your general ed courses out  =
of =

the way, like math, lab science (I recommend chemistry if you are going to =
do  =

something costume/textiles related), sociology, psychology, history (Modern=
  =

European is probably good if you have an interest in costume history), and  =

economics.  Sounds like you may already have your English requirements  =

satisfied.  That introduction to theater is a good suggestion, too.
 =

I didn't get my dream job until I turned 50.  Got the degrees, but  then =

knocked around for awhile.  Where I am now, I was a volunteer for two  year=
s,
then =

part-time, non-career, no benefits, for five years, but finally have  a ful=
l =

time professional position with great benefits and I love the work!
 =

Best of luck to you.
 =

Ann Wass



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?

Read reviews on AOL Autos.      =

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=3Daolau=
t00030000000007
)


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 07:48:44 EDT
From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <bed.27fc21b8.35d8189c@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII"

Only just saw this because I've just finished a killer week costuming (my  =

fault - took on extra work as a favour).
 =

I can't be that specific, obviously, because I'm in a different country
 =

(UK), so there will be differences in how things are set up, how they work, =

etc.
 =

But, my take would be...
 =

 =

"A)    Am I too old to pursue this?"
 =

You're not too old till you're dead.
 =


"B)    What kinds of things could I do with these  talents?"
 =

What do you want to do?  I find the only limit is my imagination, and  my =

guts (as in whether I have enough or not  :o)   ).
 =


"C)    Would I be able to pursue something which I could make  a
comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)"
 =

Can't properly answer that, cos of the country thing - but I do (am a  =

costumer and dressmaker/designer).  'Tis hard work though - but a lot of =

that's =

down to me, and my habit of taking extra jobs if they're interesting (low  =

boredom threshold - gets me every time).
 =


"D)    What types of schooling should I be looking into?  "
 =

Depends what you decide you want to do.  For some things it's  doubtless
that =

the qualifications will be a requirement - but they're not  necessary for =

everything if you have the skills (and can prove you have  them).
Although studying is naturally about much more, qualifications are, at the  =

end of the day, about proving you have certain skills.  If you can already  =

prove that, then they're less important in some walks.
 =


"E)    Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of  the
hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?"
 =

Completely.
But as others have said - ditch the quote marks, and the word hobby.
Start calling it work right now.  Makes no difference if you get paid  for =
it =

or not - your work is still your work.
But I haven't had a written C.V. (resume) since I was looking for an office
 =

job a decade ago.  Every piece of work I get comes from my portfolio (be it=
  =

book or online), and word of mouth.
 =

 =

 =

Personally, I studied fashion (but left early - hated course), dithered a  =

bit (hence the office job), costuming part time all the while, till I decid=
ed I
 =

wanted to make clothes full time (and had the workload to justify quitting =

the  day job), then I started, working from home (still do at the moment, =

although  that looks set to change shortly).
 =

Now I make assorted clothes and costumes for museums, re-enactors,  wedding=
s, =

tv - whoever wants them really!  =

 =

As I said, I left college early, so I have no formal qualifications  =

associated to what I do (other than on in theatre, which is sort of related,
but  not =

100% relevant).  Not really an issue in what I do, because I have my  =

portfolio, and dozens of pictures to prove I can do what I say I can.  Also =

because I =

set up on my own - I don't have a boss, and I don't have to go for  =

interviews.  Anyway, the lack of quals hasn't hindered me (eg, I just =

delivered an =

order for the Tower of London) - but that's probably  because I went my own
way.
 =

I just thought - if you don't have a reasonable camera (digital =

preferably, =

cos it's cheaper (no developing)), get one, and photograph every  single
thing =

you make, no matter how large or small.  It'll all fill out  your portfolio
- =

you can ditch the smaller / less impressive ones as you  accumulate more.
 =

But good luck!
 =

 =

 =

 =

 =

 =




   =



------------------------------

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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 311
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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The Sept. issue of Esquire Magazine is celebrating their 75th Anniversary.  The magazine has a nice section per decade of menswear history from 1933-today.  
 
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral,
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http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy
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Subject: [h-cost] Help!  Need a picture
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HELP
I need a picture/portrait of someone before 1600 wearing the stereotypical
Russian 4 gore cap with the fur brim.  I'm looking for a friend - this isn't
an area I have much on.
Thanks!
Julie

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Subject: [h-cost] Gentlemen's walking canes
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Can anyone recommend a good source for reproduction late C18th/early C19th gentlemen's walking canes?

Thanks

Serena
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From: Angela Lazear <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gentlemen's walking canes
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If one doesn't mind spending a bit (about $100-150) you can get just about =
anything from House of Canes in Grants Pass, OR.=A0 www.houseofcanes.com or=
 call Kay at 1-800-458-5920.=A0 I have needed a cane for years (since my ea=
rly 30s) and wanted something a bit more stylish than what one could find a=
t the local drug store.
They are all made to order, and are sturdy and really pretty.=A0 Various ma=
terials are available for a wide variety of pricing.
Good luck with your search.
angela



----- Original Message ----
From: Serena Dyer <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 3:02:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Gentlemen's walking canes

Can anyone recommend a good source for reproduction late C18th/early C19th =
gentlemen's walking canes?

Thanks

Serena
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Hi all,

I've already spent ages looking for one very simple celtic knotwork embroidery pattern (.hus, .pes and other embroidery formats), and this list is probably my last chance. Does anyone by accident know where to purchase this style of endless embroidery?
http://www.rivendellbridal.com/files/celticstarbackcloce.jpg

thank you,

Zuzana

___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New overskirt pattern from the Mantua-Maker
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I am pleased to announce that I have a new baby - no, a new pattern!  (I've=
 been babysitting far too much lately!)

            1870 - 1890 Do=F1a Madre Overskirt
                            #1880-17

This overskirt is ideal as a dressy overskirt for any occasion.
Based on patterns from period sources.
Includes the full text of the original instructions.
Directions for many different styles of draperies.
This pattern has adaptations for the 1883 - 1887 aggressive bustle.
Variations and decoration ideas are included.
Foundation skirt is not included.
All sizes Petite - Full are included.
Price $12

For photos, please go to:
http://www.mantua-maker.com/new_victorian_patterns.html

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
   http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com =


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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've already spent ages looking for one very simple celtic knotwork embroidery pattern (.hus, .pes and other embroidery formats), and this list is probably my last chance. Does anyone by accident know where to purchase this style of endless embroidery?
> http://www.rivendellbridal.com/files/celticstarbackcloce.jpg
>
> thank you,
>
> Zuzana
>
>   

I'd be happy to reproduce it for you. It's probably a custom piece, but 
the knotwork is standard and I've done similar in the past.

Connie


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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] celtic embroidery design
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You are looking at couching. You just take 3 cords and lay them down
and cross them at matched interrvals. Pin them at where they cross and
couch them down. This looks like a silver cord, but it could be done
with any color. It is one of the easiest kinds of knotwork to do. It
can be done in cross stictch and is in a lot of cross stitch books
that have knotwork.
Good luck.

*(* Aspasia


>
> I've already spent ages looking for one very simple celtic knotwork embroidery pattern (.hus, .pes and other embroidery formats), and this list is probably my last chance. Does anyone by accident know where to purchase this style of endless embroidery?
> http://www.rivendellbridal.com/files/celticstarbackcloce.jpg
>
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I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting 
issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was 
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the 
first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had 
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't 
lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the 
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing 
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my 
hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



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Cute top! Love the fabric you chose.

How about raising the armscye under the arm to make the armhole smaller, like in a Medieval gown?



Claudine



----- Original Message ----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:36:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions

I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting 
issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was 
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the 
first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had 
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't 
lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the 
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing 
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my 
hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Lower the sleeve cap curve.  If you look at the garment in the flat
I'll bet the sleeves naturally lay pointed straight down.  Rotate the
sleeve up until you get the motion/position you want.  keeping the
armhole opening as small as possible will help with that too.

alex

> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>

> I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting
> issues with it.
>
> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg
>
> Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:
>
> http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg
>
> I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was
> killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the
> first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had
> trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't
> lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the
> pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing
> this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my
> hair out of my face without difficulty.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Dawn-- 
You can put a gusset under the arms. That would help a lot.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions


I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting 
issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was 
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the 
first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had 
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't 
lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the 
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing 
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my 
hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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I have encountered several similar problems and found out a good solution which I very frequently use when I want a tight-fitting sleeve but a good range of motion without too much bulk under the arm, which would be produced by a very shallow sleeve head used in medieval and some later periods.

It is kind of trick I first saw in a pattern drafting manual. You might not be able to use it for this sleeve as you won't have enough space to change the pattern shape, but you might use it some other time.

The point is lowering the sleeve head but hiding the excess bulk (necessary for free movement) under the arm. You take a regular, tight fitting sleeve and do alternations as shown here (all in cm): http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/sleeve.gif
You make a circle with a 5cm radius around the two top ends of the sleeve and draw a new line from the top, joining these circles. You should measure the arm circumefernces on the bodice pattern and use these with some ease on the sleeve or just measure the original circumference of the sleeve and transfer it to the new line.

It is a bit difficult to sew the sleeve into the armscye, you'll need a lot of darts on the bodice armhole.

The resulting shape can look odd, but works pretty well without a too small armscye and bulk. This is the resulting look of the sleeve:
http://www.sartor.cz/images/01-01-02-08_b.jpg
She could raise her arms without any difficulty:
http://www.sartor.cz/images/01-01-02-08_c.jpg

Under the arm, it looks a bit like the "grandes assiettes", if you look closely on the second picture, you'll be able to see it. Unfortunately I don't have the dress here to make some more closer pictures of it.

Enjoy,

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





--- On Fri, 8/22/08, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 8:36 PM
> I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had
> some fitting 
> issues with it.
> 
> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg
> 
> Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:
> 
> http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg
> 
> I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem.
> What was 
> killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing.
> The model in the 
> first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion
> available. I had 
> trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because
> I couldn't 
> lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to
> adjust on the 
> pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look
> pretty wearing 
> this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I
> couldn't even push my 
> hair out of my face without difficulty.
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


      
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:52:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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I'd revert to old knowledge,  adjust the shoulder fit to correct lay, then split open the under arm of the sleeve and add a gusset.
  Its amazing they never actually try out these patterns "in real life" before running them off.
  Simplicity had the same problem with one of their most popular Lord Of the Rings patten.
  Guess Elf girls never had to raise an arm either.
  Hope that helps
  Melody

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting 
issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was 
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the 
first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had 
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't 
lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the 
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing 
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my 
hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



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h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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It looks to me as though the pattern illustration shows the neckline  
sitting higher on the shoulder, so the shoulder seam actually falls  
atop the shoulder (and the neckline is somewhat squarer in  
appearance). If you put the shoulder seam just on your shoulder,  
would that give you any better range of motion? If not, perhaps the  
sleeve cap has to be lengthened?
(Wild speculation.)
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer


On Aug 22, 2008, at 2:52 PM, Melody Watts wrote:

> I'd revert to old knowledge,  adjust the shoulder fit to correct  
> lay, then split open the under arm of the sleeve and add a gusset.
>   Its amazing they never actually try out these patterns "in real  
> life" before running them off.
>   Simplicity had the same problem with one of their most popular  
> Lord Of the Rings patten.
>   Guess Elf girls never had to raise an arm either.
>   Hope that helps
>   Melody
>
> Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>   I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some  
> fitting
> issues with it.
>
> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg
>
> Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:
>
> http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg
>
> I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was
> killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model  
> in the
> first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had
> trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't
> lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on  
> the
> pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty  
> wearing
> this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even  
> push my
> hair out of my face without difficulty.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <48AF0717.6050409@reddawn.net>
>I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting
issues with it.
>http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg
>Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:
>http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg
>The model in the first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't
lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on
the pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty
wearing this top?

Dawn,
Argh!  Why didnt you say something when you had it on & I was right
there in front of you?!  First guess is that the armseye is too low
under the armpit, as someone else has suggested.  This happens alot in
1930s & 40s dress cuts, too.  Second suggestion is that you should
flatten the curve on the under arm sean of the sleeve itself.  (After
you've raised the armseye.) This may also require you to readjust the
sleeve head for smoothness.

Final suggestion, as I recall your fabric is silk.  You can use your
iron and squeeze more fabric in the armhole and still maintain
smoothness required by the styling.  This is a bespoke tailoring trick
often done to ease a sleeve head or the roll line of a lapel. My guess
here is that you've tugged a little along the bias to get that
smoothness.  The trick is harder with silk than with wool or linen but
still doable.

Let me know if you dont understand. I'll try to explain in further detail.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> It looks to me as though the pattern illustration shows the neckline 
> sitting higher on the shoulder, so the shoulder seam actually falls 
> atop the shoulder (and the neckline is somewhat squarer in 
> appearance). If you put the shoulder seam just on your shoulder, would 
> that give you any better range of motion? 

Adjusting it so the shoulders fit properly does help with the sleeves a 
lot, but not nearly as much as I would like.

I am going to go with the gusset idea, as it will allow me to salvage 
this piece  (even if I could find more of the silk fabric, it was $35 a 
yard) as I hate the idea of wasting what's gone into it so far.  When I 
make this again, and I'm sure I will, I will be making more substantial 
changes to the pattern itself.

Thanks everyone who had comments and suggestions. :)



Dawn


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You are looking at couching. You just take 3 cords and lay them down
and cross them at matched interrvals. Pin them at where they cross and
couch them down. This looks like a silver cord, but it could be done
with any color. It is one of the easiest kinds of knotwork to do. It
can be done in cross stictch and is in a lot of cross stitch books
that have knotwork.
Good luck.

*(* Aspasia>>

Yes, but she specified PES or HUS format; those are formats for machine 
embroidery.

I'd be interested in finding more designs like that myself.

Dianne

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Seems to me like the problem is that this doesn't fit you as it should, 
judging from the Vogue pic.   It's not supposed to be off the shoulder. 
  Looks like your neckline is way too wide and that makes your armscye 
fall down.   I don't think you can do anything at this point to correct 
it.

Sylvia
'
On Aug 22, 2008, at 11:54 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> Lower the sleeve cap curve.  If you look at the garment in the flat
> I'll bet the sleeves naturally lay pointed straight down.  Rotate the
> sleeve up until you get the motion/position you want.  keeping the
> armhole opening as small as possible will help with that too.
>
> alex
>
>> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>
>> I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some 
>> fitting
>> issues with it.
>>
>> http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V7733.jpg
>>
>> Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:
>>
>> http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg
>>
>> I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was
>> killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in 
>> the
>> first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had
>> trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't
>> lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on 
>> the
>> pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty 
>> wearing
>> this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push 
>> my
>> hair out of my face without difficulty.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>>
> -- 
> "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
> Friday..."  ;)
> _______________________________________________
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Dawn wrote:
>I am going to go with the gusset idea, as it will allow me to salvage 
>this piece  (even if I could find more of the silk fabric, it was $35 a 
>yard) as I hate the idea of wasting what's gone into it so far.  When I 
>make this again, and I'm sure I will, I will be making more substantial 
>changes to the pattern itself.

For when you're working on the muslin for the next one: One common cause of not being able to raise your arms high enough is when the armhole is (somewhat paradoxically) cut too BIG. A bigger armhole with a lower bottom curve actually translates into LESS freedom of motion, not more, as you would think. This is because as you move your arm upward, the low meeting point of sleeve and body under the arm means the sleeve quickly begins to transfer the "pull" upward onto the body fabric -- which can't really move upward very far if it's at all closely fitted or confined at the waist. A higher meeting point means you can raise your arm further before it starts to pull. I know I've made this mistake ;)

Try raising the bottom line of the armhole to make a smaller "hole" and see if that makes a difference.

(Of course, there are practical limits here, you don't want the armhole so small it binds or feels tight. But pattern companies, who have to make a pattern that attempts to fit all body shapes, often do rather large armholes to accommodate people who have heavy upper arms, and that simply doesn't fit everyone else correctly.)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] celtic embroidery design - celtic knotwork font
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Thank you for all replies, I hope with the help of Connie I'll be able to get this sort of embroidery design. 

When searching for inspiration, I found this wonderful font: http://www.deviantart.com/download/33983611/CelticKnotFont.rar
With it you can make many own designs. 

I hope it'll be of some use,

Zuzana


      
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In a message dated 8/22/2008 6:22:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

Looks  like your neckline is way too wide 


*****************
 
Not WAY too wide, but too wide IMHO.
 
A fix for this they used to do in the early and mid 1800's was to run a  
ribbon thru the facing of the decollatage, having the ends emerge on the inside,  
usually in the back where the bodice opened. But it can be in the  front. This 
can be pulled up so the neckline fits snuggly. It usually  doesn't gather up 
but merely eases the neckline in and is not noticeable when  that ease is 
distributed correctly. Don't use elastic for this. You want  something that won't 
go anywhere. Use a 1/4" twill tape or something. Remember,  the ends that you 
tie are on the inside of the  bodice.



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
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Have you looked at these sites?
http://www.scarlettrose.com/celtic_knot_designs.html

http://www.grandembroiderydesigns.com/277-inspira-cd-celtic-knotwork-machine
-embroidery-design.php
http://tinyurl.com/5k7kga

http://www.secretsof.com/content/1204

not quite what you are looking for but an idea for something different.
http://www.advanced-embroidery-designs.com/html/16213.html

-----Original Message-----
Yes, but she specified PES or HUS format; those are formats for machine
embroidery.

I'd be interested in finding more designs like that myself.

Dianne


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This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't think
of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get started.

What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then stuffing
the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a little
puffy.

I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...

Thanks for your time, Jordana
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trapunto



On Aug 25, 08, at 2:27 PM, J A Urbik wrote:

> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't  
> think
> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get  
> started.
>
> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then  
> stuffing
> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a  
> little
> puffy.
>
> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...
>
> Thanks for your time, Jordana
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Trapunto?  Technically more of a quilting technique.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

J A Urbik wrote:
> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't think
> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get started.
> 
> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then stuffing
> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a little
> puffy.
> 
> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...
> 
> Thanks for your time, Jordana
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Ah, perfect.  Thanks! I was looking around yesterday and Sat on the
internet, hoping that I would come across the name and a light bulb would go
off, but no luck.  Makes it much easier to find example if i can at least
remember the name.

On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 1:29 PM, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:

> trapunto
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 25, 08, at 2:27 PM, J A Urbik wrote:
>
>  This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't think
>> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get started.
>>
>> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then
>> stuffing
>> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a little
>> puffy.
>>
>> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...
>>
>> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Well.. if you are going to be technical..... yes, but it was coming up in my
brain under embroidery.  that, i think, just goes to show something is wrong
in that particular organ.

On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 1:32 PM, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>wrote:

> Trapunto?  Technically more of a quilting technique.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
> J A Urbik wrote:
>
>> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't think
>> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get started.
>>
>> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then
>> stuffing
>> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a little
>> puffy.
>>
>> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...
>>
>> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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In a message dated 8/25/2008 2:42:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jaurbik@gmail.com writes:

Well..  if you are going to be technical..... yes, but it was coming up in my
brain  under embroidery.  that, i think, just goes to show something is  wrong
in that particular organ.



*************
 
It's often included with embroidery techniques... especially cording, which  
is technically quilting too.



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
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I believe you are talking about trapunto.=A0 It's a type of quilting techni=
que.=A0 Lynn

--- On Mon, 8/25/08, J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com> wrote:

From: J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the name of an embroidery technique
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 2:41 PM

Well.. if you are going to be technical..... yes, but it was coming up in my
brain under embroidery.  that, i think, just goes to show something is wrong
in that particular organ.

On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 1:32 PM, Lavolta Press
<fran@lavoltapress.com>wrote:

> Trapunto?  Technically more of a quilting technique.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
> J A Urbik wrote:
>
>> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i
can't think
>> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get
started.
>>
>> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then
>> stuffing
>> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a
little
>> puffy.
>>
>> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...
>>
>> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hello,

Does anyone know anyone who is connected to this website:

http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/index.html

It contains really nice collection of Regency fashion plates, photographs, and Regency-related links, which I was perusing as recently as 2 weeks ago. Since then the server has been down. There were some specific images I wanted to look at again, but can't, and I'm pouting in a major way.



Thanks,
Claudine

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On Aug 25, 2008, at 11:27 AM, J A Urbik wrote:
> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i can't  
> think
> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get  
> started.
>
> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then  
> stuffing
> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a  
> little
> puffy.
>
> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...

You're not finding it because it's a quilting technique.

I think "trapunto" is what you're looking for. It can be done with  
roving, but is often done using fuzzy bulky yarn and a big crewel  
needle (easier to work).

andy
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Quoting cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know anyone who is connected to this website:
>
> http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/index.html
>
> It contains really nice collection of Regency fashion plates,   
> photographs, and Regency-related links, which I was perusing as   
> recently as 2 weeks ago. Since then the server has been down. There   
> were some specific images I wanted to look at again, but can't, and   
> I'm pouting in a major way.
>

I googled "cathy" and "regency fashion" and found this
http://regencyfashion.org/
apparently the locutus server is having problems (hal is dead) too.  I  
did find this
http://www.chaffey.edu/english/faculty.htm
which has her contact information on it.

This is a university server, and she's still there, so I'd assume that  
it will be back ASAP.  The other option is to try the wayback machine.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Trupunto is a technique where a 3d effect is achieved by layering or creating puckered lines around a shape. It can be over cording, cloth of a different color or batting. It is often done with thread of the same color as the top layer of cloth. It's it's own embellishment treatment. Lots of time but the effect is well worth the effort.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 13:03:53 -0700> From: lynnroth@sbcglobal.net> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: Re: [h-cost] the name of an embroidery technique> > I believe you are talking about trapunto.  It's a type of quilting technique.  Lynn> > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com> wrote:> > From: J A Urbik <jaurbik@gmail.com>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] the name of an embroidery technique> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>> Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 2:41 PM> > Well.. if you are going to be technical..... yes, but it was coming up in my> brain under embroidery. that, i think, just goes to show!
  something is wrong> in that particular organ.> > On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 1:32 PM, Lavolta Press> <fran@lavoltapress.com>wrote:> > > Trapunto? Technically more of a quilting technique.> >> > Fran> > Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming> > http://www.lavoltapress.com> >> >> > J A Urbik wrote:> >> >> This name is just not coming to mind, i want to do some, but i> can't think> >> of the name, and i wanted to look at some examples before i get> started.> >>> >> What it is basically is sewing together two pieces of fabric, then> >> stuffing> >> the area of the design with some cotton so that the design gets a> little> >> puffy.> >>> >> I think the name starts with a t, but am not sure...> >>> >> Thanks for your time, Jordana> >>> > _______________________________________________> > h-costume mailing list> > h-costume@mail.indra.com> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> >> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.!
 indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> _!
 ______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Thanks! Hadn't thought to just punch some relevant words in to google. Perhaps I'll send her and email to give her a push to move the pages.



Claudine



----- Original Message ----
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 2:50:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency fashion plates website is gone?

Quoting cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know anyone who is connected to this website:
>
> http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/index.html
>
> It contains really nice collection of Regency fashion plates,  
> photographs, and Regency-related links, which I was perusing as  
> recently as 2 weeks ago. Since then the server has been down. There  
> were some specific images I wanted to look at again, but can't, and  
> I'm pouting in a major way.
>

I googled "cathy" and "regency fashion" and found this
http://regencyfashion.org/
apparently the locutus server is having problems (hal is dead) too.  I  
did find this
http://www.chaffey.edu/english/faculty.htm
which has her contact information on it.

This is a university server, and she's still there, so I'd assume that  
it will be back ASAP.  The other option is to try the wayback machine.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Quoting cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com:

> Thanks! Hadn't thought to just punch some relevant words in to   
> google. Perhaps I'll send her and email to give her a push to move   
> the pages.
>

You're welcome!  Pages move (like this one apparently had), and Stuff Happens!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Here's the latest discount offer from Fabrics-store for natural and 
white linen in several weights.

Joan Jurancich

>To: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>From: "Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle" <ask@fabrics-store.com>
>Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 08:04:12 -0400
>Subject: Joan, You can never go wrong with Natural or White - 
>especially when they are on sale!
>
>Dear Joan,
>
>You already know all the benefits of 100% linen fabric: healthy for 
>the skin and the environment, incredibly durable, easy to cut and 
>sew, it is one of the best cloths you can choose for brining your 
>designs to life.
>
>And no matter what season, occasion, or project, you will always 
>have use for the classic colors - the Natural and White.
>
>This is why this week, all the different weights of 100% linen 
>fabric in Natural, Bleached and Optic White colors will be on sale. 
>You can stock up on these necessary shades or get what you need just 
>for your current work; all the same, you will be saving as if you 
>were purchasing in bolts.
>
>The diversity in weights will allow you to complete any idea 
>starting with a classic linen suit, to a nightshirt, to bed linens, 
>to doilies, to drapes, to upholstery. There is no project too big or 
>too small that will not benefit from this week's sale.
>
>If you are looking to make:
>    * Doilies or nightshirts or anything else that requires a light 
> cloth with extra smoothness - simply select the IL020
>    * For bed linens, shirts or any project that requires a medium 
> weight, comfortable fabric - choose the IL019
>    * For jackets, slipcovers, projects that require a rustic look 
> and thicker, sturdier material - the 4C22 is the way to go
>    * Drapes or re-upholstery, projects that need a full body fabric 
> that still has a soft feel - make your pick the IL090
>
>For this week only, until Sunday August 31st, get any weight 100% 
>linen fabric in the always popular colors of Natural and White with 
>an additional discount of 10%.
>
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMue&m=1fslfXBK9nkFyH&b=06H3deQ_PX.e4QLLKLzJ8w>Enter 
>here to go directly to the discounted natural and white linen and 
>start saving now!
>
>Thank you and enjoy,
>
>Nikolai Karpushin
>Owner and President
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMue&m=1fslfXBK9nkFyH&b=06H3deQ_PX.e4QLLKLzJ8w>Fabrics-store.com
>
>P.S. Don't forget that with every purchase, you earn points that can 
>be transferred into dollar credit.
>
>P.P.S. Sign up to receive our Doggie bag alerts and be the first to 
>know when new Doggie bags are posted. These are 1st quality precut 
>pieces of fabric. Since they are precut, you get them at terrific 
>discount. After all, you'd cut them anyways.
>
>P.P.P.S If you know someone who will value this information, feel 
>free to forward them this email.
>
>Terms & Conditions
>Offer cannot be applied to previous or pending purchases.
>
>Creative Work Media, LLC., 6325 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 102, 
>Hollywood, CA 90038, USA
>
>To unsubscribe or change subscriber options visit:
><http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TEyMbBwstMzsHCxsnEzMtEa0zOzMHMzsjA==>http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TEyMbBwstMzsHCxsnEzMtEa0zOzMHMzsjA==
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Subject: [h-cost] Link to list of sewing blogs
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I just ran across this huge list of sewing blogs.  I have no idea 
whether any of them will be useful to h-costume members, but thought I 
might as well post the link:

http://www.suzical.co.uk/sewing-blogs.html

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Setting color question
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This has probably been addressed here before, but I don't remember the  
advice (or it was before I joined).  
 
I have some dark red linen that I would like to use, but I want to wash it  
first.  My local fabric store usually carries a product called "Retayne"  but 
they have been out of it for a while.  It's a "color fixative for  cotton 
fabrics" according to the label and is used in hot water.  I've been  using it on 
linen with good results.  
 
What can I use instead?  Someone at the fabric store suggested white  
vinegar, but she was not sure of the water temperature or amounts.  I would  like to 
wash the linen in warm/hot water, if possible, to allow it to shrink  before I 
use it.  I'll be doing it in the machine, since it is about six  yards.  
 
Any advice?
 
Thanks,
Catherine 
 
 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
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CBellfleur@aol.com wrote:
> This has probably been addressed here before, but I don't remember the  
> advice (or it was before I joined).  
>  
> I have some dark red linen that I would like to use, but I want to wash it  
> first.  My local fabric store usually carries a product called "Retayne"  but 
> they have been out of it for a while.  It's a "color fixative for  cotton 
> fabrics" according to the label and is used in hot water.  I've been  using it on 
> linen with good results.   

You should be able to mail order Retayne from any number of quilting web 
stores. Or, if you have specialty quilt shops in your area, check with 
them, too.



Dawn


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At 01:17 PM 8/26/2008, you wrote:
>This has probably been addressed here before, but I don't remember the
>advice (or it was before I joined).
>
>I have some dark red linen that I would like to use, but I want to wash it
>first.  My local fabric store usually carries a product called "Retayne"  but
>they have been out of it for a while.  It's a "color fixative for  cotton
>fabrics" according to the label and is used in hot water.  I've 
>been  using it on
>linen with good results.
>
>What can I use instead?  Someone at the fabric store suggested white
>vinegar, but she was not sure of the water temperature or 
>amounts.  I would  like to
>wash the linen in warm/hot water, if possible, to allow it to 
>shrink  before I
>use it.  I'll be doing it in the machine, since it is about six  yards.
>
>Any advice?
>
>Thanks,
>Catherine

I'd go to http://dharmatrading.com/ .  They sell everything you need 
for dyeing fabric.  And here's the direct link to a dye fixative 
http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1569-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html .


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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In a message dated 8/26/2008 4:18:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
CBellfleur@aol.com writes:

Someone  at the fabric store suggested white  
vinegar, but 


***************
 
It depends of what the dye was. Procian dyes, like the kind you get from  
Dharma Trading Co, are fixed with soda ash....which is the same as PH plus  
(alkaline) you get from a pool & spa place. Vinegar is PH minus (acid)  so.... 
 
Do you have any containers of the Retayne. Look and see what's in it. Acid  
or alkaline.  With the PH plus it's usually 1 cup to a gallon of water.  Don't 
know about the acid, but that's a good start. Doesn't Ritt make a  fixer? Do 
some tests.
 
If it's a commercial fabric, is it really that runny?
 
 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
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CBellfleur@aol.com wrote:
>I have some dark red linen that I would like to use, but I want to wash it  
>first.  My local fabric store usually carries a product called "Retayne"  but 
>they have been out of it for a while.  It's a "color fixative for  cotton 
>fabrics" according to the label and is used in hot water.  I've been  using it on 
>linen with good results.  
> 
>What can I use instead?  Someone at the fabric store suggested white  
>vinegar, but she was not sure of the water temperature or amounts.  I would  like to 
>wash the linen in warm/hot water, if possible, to allow it to shrink  before I 
>use it.  I'll be doing it in the machine, since it is about six  yards.  

White vinegar is helpful _during_ the dyeing process for some dyes, but IMHO it doesn't do any good afterward -- it's helpful in dyeing when the acidity of the dyebath makes the dye "take" better. Nonetheless, it's widely recommended as a method of "fixing" dye and there are people who swear by it. My science education leads me to be very skeptical, though ;)

Your best bet is probably mail/internet order: I know Dharma Trading used to stock both the brand-name Retayne and their own generic version, and their service is quite fast and competent. 

Some commercial detergents do contain small amounts of something comparable -- they generally advertise on the box that they help keep colors fast. I've always relied on my little bottle of Retayne, so I don't know how well they work.

If you need something quickly and don't mind paying inflated prices for a couple of laundry loads' worth, the Rit dye company sells (or used to sell) a color fixer right there on the rack with their little dye packages. It's actually just Retayne, packaged in a little one-washer-load envelope, but you can sometimes find it in areas where there aren't a lot of specialized stores that would stock Retayne any other way. It might be called "Run Away" if my memory isn't playing tricks on me, but if you find it, read the box to be sure that's what it does.

In general, quilters are good people to ask about dye and marking questions, since when you sew little bits of various colored fabrics together on a routine basis, you encounter these problems a _lot_ <grin>.

There also exists a detergent called Synthropol which I think of (incorrectly) as the "opposite" of Retayne -- Synthropol is pretty effective at removing dye that has run onto somewhere it is *NOT* supposed to be (as when all your underwear comes out of the washer pink...). It does not "fix" the dye that is already attached to fibers: what it does is to remove any dye that is just hanging around in the cloth and _not_ firmly attached. 

Good luck: reds tend to be among the more difficult colors to keep where you want them ;)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric store closing
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I have bad news (possibly) for those in the Boston area.  I just heard
from my sister-in-law (who works there) that the Fabric Place in
Woburn will be closing shortly.  Don't know yet if it is the whole
chain or just that store, but they closed the store in CT a year and a
half (or more) ago.  It was pretty much the only full service sewing
clothing fabric store for the north of Boston area if one didn't want
to put up with Jo-Ann's.  I was last in there a couple on months ago
and they certainly looked like they were starting to cut back, the
trim and lace selection was pitiful.

At least I still have Zimman's nearby with to-die-for drapery silks.....

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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The Connecticut store closed on quite short notice; I found out when I went in for a yard of plain china silk.

No one now regularly carries china silk in the central Connecticut area. :(

Good thing Osgood's isn't too far away.

Ann in CT

--- On Tue, 8/26/08, Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> Boston area.  Fabric Place in Woburn will be closing shortly.  
> they closed the store in CT a year and a
> half (or more) ago.  
> 
> Katy



      
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from *Khaliah Ali*
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?crit=1065&id=1089&StartRow=1
They really are pretty awful, but who knows, some parts may be adaptable.
And hey, at least they come in plus sizes, for a change!

MaggiRos

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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I have taken a bodice with princess seams like those pirate and gypsy
patterns (basically the same pattern as far as I can see) and turned it into
a decent 16th century bodice (this page gives rough instructions on how I
did it http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/Tudor/SiL/Fixing_SiL.html),  so for a
plus sized woman who doesn't want to draft her own bodice pattern (and
that's the most difficult part of most historic costumes) it could be useful
for something 16th or maybe even 18th century. The biggest problem is really
the lack of sleeves but you can take the sleeves off a non costume pattern
(though you'd have to adjust that as well so the seam ran down the back of
the arm not underneath).
Elizabeth
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maggie
Sent: Wednesday, 27 August 2008 3:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Goofy costume patterns

from *Khaliah Ali*
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?crit=1065&id=1089&StartRow=1
They really are pretty awful, but who knows, some parts may be adaptable.
And hey, at least they come in plus sizes, for a change!

MaggiRos
<snip>

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Thread-Topic: Woman's waistcoat 17th cent.
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At a re-enactment event at the weekend, someone mentioned that she had heard that women's bodices were called waistcoats in the early 17th century. No-one else was aware of this. I'm sure I have seen mention of  the waistcoat as a woman's garment on this list, but can anyone clarify the definition?

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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According to some books I have, a 'waistcoat' was a coat cut to the 
waist.  i.e. a short coat (with sleeves) - didn't matter if it was 
male or female.  Therefore a bodice was a waistcoat (worn with a 
skirt) as apposed to a 'gown' which was like a long coat but tended 
to be worn by married women.

Jill


At 12:57 27/08/2008, you wrote:
>At a re-enactment event at the weekend, someone mentioned that she 
>had heard that women's bodices were called waistcoats in the early 
>17th century. No-one else was aware of this. I'm sure I have seen 
>mention of  the waistcoat as a woman's garment on this list, but can 
>anyone clarify the definition?
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Waistcoats come up in ladies' inventories all the time and I've never known
quite what to make of it. I gguess I could have asked, but it's the kind of
thing that I tend to pass over "for now" and intend to come back to later.
And look! It's "later"!  Thanks Jill!

MaggiRos
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller


On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Jill Hadfield <jill@jigrah.co.uk> wrote:

>
> According to some books I have, a 'waistcoat' was a coat cut to the waist.
>  i.e. a short coat (with sleeves) - didn't matter if it was male or female.
>  Therefore a bodice was a waistcoat (worn with a skirt) as apposed to a
> 'gown' which was like a long coat but tended to be worn by married women.
>
> Jill
>
>
> At 12:57 27/08/2008, you wrote:
>
>> At a re-enactment event at the weekend, someone mentioned that she had
>> heard that women's bodices were called waistcoats in the early 17th century.
>> No-one else was aware of this. I'm sure I have seen mention of  the
>> waistcoat as a woman's garment on this list, but can anyone clarify the
>> definition?
>>
>>
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woman's waistcoat 17th cent.
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Most of the following info is from Jane Huggett's Clothes of the Common
Woman 1580-1660.

The modern word bodice derives from the period term bodies, or pair of
bodies (pair meaning something made in more than one part). It therefore
more correctly refers to stays or corset.

A waistcoat worn with a petticoat was the normal everyday wear of ordinary
women throughout the period. Writing in 1688 Randle Holmes described a
waistcoat as "an habit or garment generally worn by the middle and lower
sort of woman, having gored skirts and some wear them with stomachers"
(quoted in Waugh.

Hope that helps
Mags

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: 27 August 2008 12:57
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Woman's waistcoat 17th cent.

At a re-enactment event at the weekend, someone mentioned that she had heard
that women's bodices were called waistcoats in the early 17th century.
No-one else was aware of this. I'm sure I have seen mention of  the
waistcoat as a woman's garment on this list, but can anyone clarify the
definition?

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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This is from "Costume in England: A History of Dress" by F W Fairholt, published in 1846.  Strutt died in 1802.

Waistcoat - A term originally used, as at present, for an under-garment or coat reaching only to the waist.  "It ultimately," says 
Strutt, "superseded the doublet, but not until such time as the latter appellation was totally dropped."  In the seventeenth century 
it regained its original position and meaning.

It's not much help.  Randle Holme was active 1683-1700, so he is a much better source.

I *think* the word bodice as we use it is late Victorian.  It was defined as "a sort of stays" in "A Critical Pronouncing 
Dictionary", 1837 and in "Costume in England", 1846 (boddice).  Webster's Dictionary defines it as "Stays; a corset." in 1867.  In 
1884 the "National Standard Encyclopedia" defines it as "A waistcoat quilted with whalebone, worn by women; stays; a corset."  Was 
that part of the question?


Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
   http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com


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From: "Regina Voorhes" <reginalawsonv@gmail.com>
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Please forgive, but The Chief of Clan MacColin, Steven Gillan, asked me to
pass this along, and some here might be interested:

*Wake for Christal Gillan:
We will be holding a wake for Christal Gillan, who passed away on July 10th,
on Saturday, September 6.  The service will be held at the Veteran's
Memorial Complex, 4117 Overland Bl (at the corner of Culver and Overland),
Culver City, in the Yanji/Iksan Room, starting at 4:00pm.  Wear outrageous
socks, if you have them, and bring memories and love to share.  This is a
dry site, so please save your alcohol for the potluck to follow.  The
potluck will be that the Jacobs' house, 8862 Carson St., after the
ceremony.  You can drop off your dishes at the house before the ceremony, if
you wish to.  Bring a dish to share, and serving pieces.  We will provide
non-alcoholic drinks (and some White Russians, in memory of Christal), and
we will wake her properly.  BYOB
*
Ever,
Regina Voorhes
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Hi, all,
I have added a few new 18th-century reproduction cotton print fabrics  
to my store: I have some of Windham Fabrics' Colonial Williamsburg- 
inspired prints for $8.50, a couple of Duran Textiles' repro cottons;  
and one Den Haan and Wagenmakers' Dutch chintz. These prints are  
crisp and neatly-registered (unlike my usual India cottons); all but  
one are on cream white grounds; and they are all based upon artifact  
prints, if not exact copies. The descriptions with each fabric  
attempt to describe its degree of authenticity. I also include nice  
big scans of the fabrics, with a ruler to give scale.

I hope you will take a look. They can be found at http:// 
timetraveltextiles.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? 
Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTT&Category_Code=NEW

Thank you for indulging this commercial message. We now return you to  
your regularly-scheduled program.

Best,
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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