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> Gypsy Rose Lee

I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she played
in and a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?
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Probably the movie "Gypsy" with Rosalind Russell as the stage mother and
Natalie Wood as Gypsy.

******************************* 
Astrida Schaeffer, Exhibitions and Collections Manager 
Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire 
Paul Creative Arts Center 
30 Academic Way
Durham, NH 03824-3538 
603-862-0310 
FAX: 603-862-2191 

www.unh.edu/art-gallery 
******************************* 

 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey 
> Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 12:38 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween
> 
> > Gypsy Rose Lee
> 
> I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she 
> played in and a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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At 11:38 PM 9/30/2008, you wrote:
> > Gypsy Rose Lee
>
>I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she played
>in and a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?

Sorry, the movie is "Gypsy."

Bette Midler played the mom in the 1993 version, and they just re-did 
it on Broadway with Bernadette Peters.

The movie is really more about the really driven mom than the daughter.

Genie

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Same here!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of zelda crusher
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 8:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


 > My patience,> > -C.

I also love this thread, but this is my favorite response so far.  It strikes so close to home.

Laurie
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One of the major pattern companies had a soft armor pattern a few (well, quite a few. My son is 20) years ago. It worked quite well.

-----Original Message-----


In the near future I plan to make soft sculpture armor for my daughter who said she wanted to be a knight for Halloween. (Take that Disney Princesses.)
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Gypsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 12:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween

> Gypsy Rose Lee

I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she played
in and a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: weird sewing machine problem
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The needle bar (the
doohickey that holds the needle) fell off my sewing machine and I don't know how the heck to reattach it. The manual doesn't address this problem. Tightening the needle
clamp only holds the needle in; the whole bar slides off regardless and
there doesn't seem to be a way to stick it back on. The thread hook
(the bent wire that holds the thread close to the needle) also popped
out and won't stay when I try to put it back. Does anyone have any
ideas about how to fix this thing, or is it time to take it to the
sewing machine doctor? Thanks very much.

yours,
Maureen

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Maureen Campbell wrote:
> Does anyone have any
> ideas about how to fix this thing, or is it time to take it to the
> sewing machine doctor? Thanks very much.

It sounds like you have a screw loose or lost. Those parts are not 
normally detachable, or user-maintained. You'd probably have to take the 
case apart, which could void a warranty if it is a new machine.  So, 
yes, time to see a repairman.


Dawn

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Argh, I was afraid of that. Thank you.

M.
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1962 "Gypsy", the musical about how she became the burlesque star. Great
performance by Rosalind Russell, playing her mom. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 9:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween

> Gypsy Rose Lee

I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she played in and
a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?
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Hi!

My is wearing the legs of Laughing Moon's Victorian drawers, draped over her shoulders!

All the best!

Jayne


-----Original Message-----
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 19:09
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?



It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th
Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical
locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making
something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on
your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or in the
embroidery hoop.
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Had a phone conversation with my son, Ansel, recently. He who played Captain Sir Martin Frobisher in previous years at Bristol. Now that Faire is over for the year, he suddenly remembers that somebody from this list recognized him at Bristol this year and said to say HI. Sorry, I never got the message and he doesn't remember who it was. 

Actually what he said was - "Hey, Mom, meant to tell you. One of your costume buddies said to say Hello". Since he had a part in a show this year and a new street character (Farmer Bernard), he wasn't wearing the Frobie suit this year. Therefore, it had to be somebody who recognized the face not the garb.

So, greetings back to whomever.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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>Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
>My dressform is still wearing Durer's
>"Nurnbergerin im Hauskleid". I finished it in
>June for my master craftswoman degree in
>costuming and still found no place to store the
>pleated apron.

Too lovely.  The headwear turned out wonderfully well.  Are you going
to tell us how you did it?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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The dress is wonderful, and I'm in awe of the apron and the headdress!
Master craftswoman indeed!

MaggiRos





> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:30 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is your dressform wearing?
>
>
> My dressform is still wearing D=FCrer=B4s
> "N=FCrnbergerin im Hauskleid". I finished it in
> June for my master craftswoman degree in
> costuming and still found no place to store the
> pleated apron. Here=B4s a picture of the costume
> "in action": http://s6.directupload.net/file/d/1464/aob843cf_jpg.htm :-)
> >
>

-- =

Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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Hello everyone,
I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK about this time
next year and I'm trying to work out what I should visit, I'm spending a
week in London with friends and after that point I'm planning to spend
another 2 or 3 weeks around the UK & Ireland. the London part of my trip is
fairly firmly planned but for the rest of the UK & Ireland I've only got
Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton Court definitely on my
list so far, so what else would you suggest for a costumer and Tudor history
nut?
Elizabeth
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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I just finished a papier-mache full-head jack-o-lantern 
mask/headpiece, which got packed for the event tonight.  Also just 
packed is the item containing 7 - 3 foot tall satin stitched 
appliques, some of which also have fabric painting and other 
modification.  Hubby's worktable just produced a tunic and 
soft-sculpted palazzo pants, and a whole mess of pumpkin leaves and 
vines.  After this weekend I'll let you in on what it all is and what 
happened with it.

Sandy

At 01:09 PM 9/29/2008, you wrote:
>It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
>company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th
>Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical
>locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making
>something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

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At 05:09 02/10/2008, you wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK about this time
>next year and I'm trying to work out what I should visit, I'm spending a
>week in London with friends and after that point I'm planning to spend
>another 2 or 3 weeks around the UK & Ireland. the London part of my trip is
>fairly firmly planned but for the rest of the UK & Ireland I've only got
>Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton Court definitely on my
>list so far, so what else would you suggest for a costumer and Tudor history
>nut?
>Elizabeth
>-------------------------------
>Elizabeth Walpole
>Canberra, Australia
>http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
>
>___
Platt Hall, Manchester has a costume collection, usually on display, 
but with all collections in the U.K. it is wise to check on opening 
times - collections are being closed, either permanently or for 
refurbishment, all the time.
Kentwell, in Suffolk, has living history events, Tudor in date in the 
main, but again, depends on the time of year.

Tudor clothing on display in the "provinces" is very rare, and there 
are not that many other collections - I cannot remember the name of 
one in Wales, used to be the Snowshill Collection - maybe if you 
googled "Snowshill" you might find it?

Suzi 

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Not much in the way of costume but with significate connections to the
16th century:

Hardwick Hall, Chesterfield, Derbyshire

Sulgrave Manor in Northamptonshire

Stranger's hall in Norwich

I'd also check the National Trust properties,  I know there are more.


alex
On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 11:09 PM, Elizabeth Walpole
<ewalpole@grapevine.com.au> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK about this time
> next year and I'm trying to work out what I should visit, I'm spending a
> week in London with friends and after that point I'm planning to spend
> another 2 or 3 weeks around the UK & Ireland. the London part of my trip is
> fairly firmly planned but for the rest of the UK & Ireland I've only got
> Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton Court definitely on my
> list so far, so what else would you suggest for a costumer and Tudor history
> nut?
> Elizabeth
> -------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra, Australia
> http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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Just returned form Ireland.

Museum of Ireland - Archaeology (Kildare St, Dublin) has the Shinrone 
gown and men's clothing from bogs on display in a room off the 1st 
floor. late 16th/ early 17th C. also some things in the medieval 
section on the 2nd floor. Museum of Ireland- Decorative Arts (Collins 
Barracks, Dublin) has a display of 20th C clothing and some 19th C 
things in the general collection. The office of the textile 
conservator for the system is also located here. Museum of Country 
Life has some early 20th C things on display including 
Traditional/Folk clothing from the Aran Islands and a nice display of 
sweaters. Bunratty Castle has some early 16th portraits. Please be 
aware that photography is generally forbidden in Irish Museums.

Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 10/2/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 14:09:29 +1000
>From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
>
>Hello everyone,
>I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK about this time
>next year and I'm trying to work out what I should visit, I'm spending a
>week in London with friends and after that point I'm planning to spend
>another 2 or 3 weeks around the UK & Ireland. the London part of my trip is
>fairly firmly planned but for the rest of the UK & Ireland I've only got
>Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton Court definitely on my
>list so far, so what else would you suggest for a costumer and Tudor history
>nut?
>Elizabeth

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Okay, this is weird request I know.  I have someone who wants me to make her a "sort" of  accurate gown -
This is an example of what she is looking for:
http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-versailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm

Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a medical condition. 
I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might show her.

So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same - 

I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper undergarments:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm

Thanks,

Sg
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
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Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 20:45:08 +0000
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sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? 

You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or something. 
Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them as having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and small bodies. 

Good luck!
Lauren
 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> 

> 
> 
> 
> Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to make her a 
> "sort" of accurate gown - 
> This is an example of what she is looking for: 
> http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-vers 
> ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm 
> 
> Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a 
> medical condition. 
> I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right 
> undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might show her. 
> 
> So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper 
> undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same - 
> 
> I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper 
> undergarments: 
> 
> http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Sg 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>
>
> So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same - 

I would suggest hitting Flickr or similar photo sharing sites and 
cruising for renfest photos.


Dawn



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I am looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea.  I would really like to distance myself from doing anything that is that grossly wrong - but she seems interested in learning how to sew --- so I don't want to dissuade her.

I should have said also, that I understand someone not posting a link publicly...if you have something you would like to share, feel free to contact me off-list.

Thanks, Saragrace


> From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 20:45:08 +0000
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
> 
> sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? 
> 
> You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or something. 
> Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them as having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and small bodies. 
> 
> Good luck!
> Lauren
>  
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to make her a 
> > "sort" of accurate gown - 
> > This is an example of what she is looking for: 
> > http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-vers 
> > ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm 
> > 
> > Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a 
> > medical condition. 
> > I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right 
> > undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might show her. 
> > 
> > So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper 
> > undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same - 
> > 
> > I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper 
> > undergarments: 
> > 
> > http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm 
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > 
> > Sg 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18thC baggy,
 was Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
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     That black gown is cool looking - too bad they mucked it up with the
back lacing! A stomacher front like that means the fit is adjustable
where the stomacher is pinned to the gown, thus no need to have it
lace like that.

     Anyway, sorry to be Devil's advocate; I know some people claim a
medical problem when they just don't want to wear a certain thing,
and it's not up to someone else to insist they can. But what about
people who can't take the pressure of stays / corset? What are they
to do?

     While stays help the overall posture, there are some loose 18thC
styles. They tend to show up in the 1720 to 1750 time frame, so it
depends on if this fits the lady's purpose.

     A bedgown is a casual sort of garment that would work.

http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/18thcent/lacroix/fig206.jpg

     There is also a more voluminous wrapper sort of gown, robe volante or
robe battante, I think. It's an undress (casual) sort of thing, not
for a ball, but out of a nice fabric can look good.

http://cgfa.floridaimaging.com/chardin/p-chardin8.htm
http://marquise.de/en/1700/glossar/volante.gif
http://marquise.de/en/1700/womenguide/g18_2.jpg
http://marquise.de/en/1700/pics/1727_1.shtml
http://marquise.de/en/1700/pics/1723_1.shtml

     A feature of fashionable 18thC wear is that the neckline is low and
the bust is high, so both converge at the point of the bust (which
has been raised by stays). Is there anything she can wear to get that
lift?

     Otherwise the loose wrapper may be the way to go, with a good
hairstyle, jewelry, and absolutely fabulous shoes.

     Correct baggy is much better than high fashion that has not been
neatly fitted.

     -Carol


> Okay, this is weird request I know.  I have someone who wants me to make
> her a "sort" of  accurate gown -
> This is an example of what she is looking for:
> http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-versailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm
>
> Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to
> a medical condition.
> I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the
> right undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might show
> her.
>
> So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper
> undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same -
>
> I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper
> undergarments:
>
> http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg

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<aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
>Anyway, sorry to be Devil's advocate; I know some people claim a
>medical problem when they just don't want to wear a certain thing,
>and it's not up to someone else to insist they can. But what about
>people who can't take the pressure of stays / corset? What are they
>to do?

Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry.

Offhand, I can think of two issues where any kind of corsetry or stiffening can be a problem. One is for people in wheelchairs: if they are to wear a corset at all, it must need to be designed for sitting rather than standing, and I can imagine that for someone whow has limited mobility anyway, not being able to bend freely at the waist could make some necessary movements very difficult.

I also have a friend who finds that a normal 16th-century corset and fitted gown cause too much of the weight of the skirt to be carried by her hips and lower back, which she finds very painful. She does much better with something where most of the weight of the dress hangs from the shoulders (loose gowns, for instance, although she can also wear a fitted gown with a few bones but not a full corset). In her case, the medical problem is nerve damage.

Others?


____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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At 23:12 02/10/2008, you wrote:
><aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
> >Anyway, sorry to be Devil's advocate; I know some people claim a
> >medical problem when they just don't want to wear a certain thing,
> >and it's not up to someone else to insist they can. But what about
> >people who can't take the pressure of stays / corset? What are they
> >to do?
>
>Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people 
>encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm 
>sure it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of 
>what really are the issues that cause problems might help 
>dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful 
>persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best 
>they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry.
>
>Offhand, I can think of two issues where any kind of corsetry or 
>stiffening can be a problem. One is for people in wheelchairs: if 
>they are to wear a corset at all, it must need to be designed for 
>sitting rather than standing, and I can imagine that for someone 
>whow has limited mobility anyway, not being able to bend freely at 
>the waist could make some necessary movements very difficult.
>
>I also have a friend who finds that a normal 16th-century corset and 
>fitted gown cause too much of the weight of the skirt to be carried 
>by her hips and lower back, which she finds very painful. She does 
>much better with something where most of the weight of the dress 
>hangs from the shoulders (loose gowns, for instance, although she 
>can also wear a fitted gown with a few bones but not a full corset). 
>In her case, the medical problem is nerve damage.
>
>Others?

My friend had an operation for lung cancer, which meant access from 
her back through the ribs, and cannot bear to be restricted. Possibly 
people who have had similar operations, maybe for breast cancer or similar?

Suzi 

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Chris wrote:
> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered
> that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does happen
> -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues
> that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt
> to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around,
> or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without
> corsetry.


     While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
to participate in events while in the healing process.

     There were things in various eras for people to wear while injured,
aged, working, or any other reason where a restrictive high-fashion
would not do. What are the acceptable compromises as far as who the
person wants to portray?

     -Carol

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>
> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered 
> that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does 
> happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the 
> issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) 
> attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of 
> work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment 
> without corsetry.
>
>

the first thing I thought of was a mastectomy. might be painful, and could 
be a problem aesthetically with some designs, depending on how low cut the 
garments are. . .

denise, with an unreliable shift key 

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I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear the constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-(  I'd give a lot to be able to wear my gowns again. 

Kate

> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry.
> 
> Offhand, I can think of two issues where any kind of corsetry or stiffening can be a problem. One is for people in wheelchairs: if they are to wear a corset at all, it must need to be designed for sitting rather than standing, and I can imagine that for someone whow has limited mobility anyway, not being able to bend freely at the waist could make some necessary movements very difficult.
> 
> I also have a friend who finds that a normal 16th-century corset and fitted gown cause too much of the weight of the skirt to be carried by her hips and lower back, which she finds very painful. She does much better with something where most of the weight of the dress hangs from the shoulders (loose gowns, for instance, although she can also wear a fitted gown with a few bones but not a full corset). In her case, the medical problem is nerve damage.
> 
> Others?
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
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On Thu, 2 Oct 2008, Chris Laning wrote:

> <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
>> Anyway, sorry to be Devil's advocate; I know some people claim a
>> medical problem when they just don't want to wear a certain thing,
>> and it's not up to someone else to insist they can. But what about
>> people who can't take the pressure of stays / corset? What are they
>> to do?
>
> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people 
> encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure 
> it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what 
> really are the issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide 
> whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise 
> some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice 
> looking garment without corsetry.
>

Fibromyalgia means that even the lightest pressure on soft tissue, 
especially over a bone, can be incredibly painful. I haven't tried wearing 
a properly fitted corset since my diagnosis, but I could see where a 16th 
c. gown with all the trimmings would be painful. To give you an idea, my 
7-lb cat is only *barely* light enough to stand on my lap without 
causing me pain, and I have a very mild manifestation of the syndrome.

Other possibilities for conditions that might preclude a corset are 
multiple sclerosis, Lou Gehrig's Disease, diabetes, sciatica, any of the 
degenerative nerve or musculoskeletal conditions.

Jen
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Oh, Kate, I am so sorry! 
Your situation, though, also leads to another question for me: If Saragrace's client cannot wear a corset for any of these reasons, how uncomfortable is she going to be in the gown she's chosen without one? For me, the corsetry is helpful in *supporting* that kind of skirtage; without it, you've got a ton of skirt pulling on you. 
My main corset problems are asthma/allergies and fat. On a bad day -- humid, smoky, moldy, polleny -- it can just be one thing too many to fight against the stays to breathe. The better the stays fit the less of  a problem it is. 
Saragrace -- I assume you have the whole, "stays are not that uncomfortable, and before the 19th century tight-lacing was not the point" song and dance by heart? I know some large women who surprise themselves by *liking* stays. 
Lauren
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> 

> I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear the 
> constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre Syndrome. 
> Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-( I'd give a lot to be able to wear 
> my gowns again. 
> 
> Kate 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Yes, I have explained that to to her.  I have suggested just a firm under bodice (ala' Elenora of Toledo).  We will see where that goes. 
She has a gastritis problem that plagues her...

I really appreciate all  the folks who have explained some of their issues.  It really "kicks me in the hiney, to remember that there are lots of legitimate reasons for wanting to "dress up" with some limitations...

Sg


> From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 22:56:26 +0000
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
> 
> Oh, Kate, I am so sorry! 
> Your situation, though, also leads to another question for me: If Saragrace's client cannot wear a corset for any of these reasons, how uncomfortable is she going to be in the gown she's chosen without one? For me, the corsetry is helpful in *supporting* that kind of skirtage; without it, you've got a ton of skirt pulling on you. 
> My main corset problems are asthma/allergies and fat. On a bad day -- humid, smoky, moldy, polleny -- it can just be one thing too many to fight against the stays to breathe. The better the stays fit the less of  a problem it is. 
> Saragrace -- I assume you have the whole, "stays are not that uncomfortable, and before the 19th century tight-lacing was not the point" song and dance by heart? I know some large women who surprise themselves by *liking* stays. 
> Lauren
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> 
> 
> > I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear the 
> > constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre Syndrome. 
> > Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-( I'd give a lot to be able to wear 
> > my gowns again. 
> > 
> > Kate 
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>     While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
> problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
> pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
> leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
> to participate in events while in the healing process.

<snip>

I have fibromyalgia and arthritis, and I find that my properly fitted 
corsets are MUCH more comfortable that any bra.  I do have days that there's 
too much pain to wear anything fitted, but on those days I'm usually in bed 
with a lot of pain medication, not trying to do anything.

The trick for me is that the corset has to be short enough, and snug without 
being overly tight.  If it's too loose, then it rubs against me and causes 
pain, and also allows my ribs to pop out of joint.

Melusine 

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Subject: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool football
	helmet
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I'm starting to run out of ideas, so I'm asking here....
 
My 3-year-old wants to be a "football guy" for Halloween. We have a jersey,
I can rig up pants no problem. However, I'm stumped on the helmet. No one
seems to make toddler size play football helmets! The closest I can come up
with is a $45 complete football uniform which includes the helmet from the
NFL shop online.
 
Does anyone have any ideas? Somewhere else to look? (I've tried sports
stores, athletic apparel, only the full sets, if anything, especially for
this age). Some way to rig something up? Although, once it is made, it may
need to take a beating during Sunday afternoon football games :)
 
Thanks!
 
************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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Saragrace, i don't know how long she would be wearing the gown. i'm
overweight and I know that without a corset, women with any flab just look
worse than bad. Perhaps having very heavy interfacing and boning in the gown
or, as you said, a firm underbodice (with some boning if at all possible)
will help keep the beautiful, smooth line that is one of the most attractive
things about the style your friend has chosen.

If she'll be standing most of the time, the front could be strengthened with
plastic canvas. That would bend, not push too hard yet smooth the front of
the bodice nicely. Of course, if she'll be in it for long or if it's very
warm in your area, the plastic canvas won't work at all. (I use it for
making pill-box hats. Padded and covered with nice fabric, you'd never know
what's inside - and they're practically indestructible!)

Best wishes,
LynnD

On Thu, Oct 2, 2008 at 4:03 PM, Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>wrote:

>
>    While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
>> problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
>> pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
>> leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
>> to participate in events while in the healing process.
>>
>
> <snip>
>
> I have fibromyalgia and arthritis, and I find that my properly fitted
> corsets are MUCH more comfortable that any bra.  I do have days that there's
> too much pain to wear anything fitted, but on those days I'm usually in bed
> with a lot of pain medication, not trying to do anything.
>
> The trick for me is that the corset has to be short enough, and snug
> without being overly tight.  If it's too loose, then it rubs against me and
> causes pain, and also allows my ribs to pop out of joint.
>
> Melusine
>  _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool
 football helmet
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Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
>  No one
> seems to make toddler size play football helmets! The closest I can come up
> with is a $45 complete football uniform which includes the helmet from the
> NFL shop online.
>  
> Does anyone have any ideas? 

How about a youth size mouthguard, those are pretty cheap, and some face 
paint rubbed under the eyes?


Dawn
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On Oct 2, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
> I have fibromyalgia and arthritis, and I find that my properly  
> fitted corsets are MUCH more comfortable that any bra.  I do have  
> days that there's too much pain to wear anything fitted, but on  
> those days I'm usually in bed with a lot of pain medication, not  
> trying to do anything.

I think you've hit the nail on the head here. If the corset doesn't  
fit, it's going to be uncomfortable.

On top of that, there are many different styles of corsets and  
bodices. Someone who would find a wasp-waisted Victorian or Edwardian  
corset (which, face it, is what inexperienced folks think every corset  
is) very uncomfortable may be perfectly happy in a simpler Renaissance  
style.

The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down the  
waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion of a  
smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little interior  
support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the need for  
compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be really tight to  
do its job.

andy
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I'd highly recommend the National Portrait Gallery. And the V&A, of course!

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 11:09 PM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: [h-cost] What to see in the UK
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I'm in the early planning stages of a Holliday to the UK 
> about this time next year and I'm trying to work out what I 
> should visit, I'm spending a week in London with friends and 
> after that point I'm planning to spend another 2 or 3 weeks 
> around the UK & Ireland. the London part of my trip is fairly 
> firmly planned but for the rest of the UK & Ireland I've only 
> got Bath, Stratford on Avon, Warwick Castle, and Hampton 
> Court definitely on my list so far, so what else would you 
> suggest for a costumer and Tudor history nut?
> Elizabeth
> -------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole   
> Canberra, Australia
> http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Double-sided velveteen
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I just received my regular email from fabric.com.  They are having a 
sale on double-sided velveteen.  Here's the 
URL: 
http://www.fabric.com/CategoryDetail.aspx?CategoryID=f77efb13-f39f-4057-949e-6aaef12352be

It might well be too heavy for clothes, though.  Has anyone used this 
fabric before?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
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Actually, if you just lightly bone the bodice, so it doesn't wrinkle up
along the center front and at the back lacings that should be ok. At least
for what she seems to want. My first Ren bodice was boned, but I didn't wear
a corset/pair of bodies and it worked fine. Does she intend to wear a bra?
Maybe try to get her into a sports bra rather than a modern one. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 1:32 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...




Okay, this is weird request I know.  I have someone who wants me to make her
a "sort" of  accurate gown - This is an example of what she is looking for:
http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-
versailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm

Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a
medical condition. 
I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right
undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might show her.

So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper
undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same - 

I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper
undergarments:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm

Thanks,

Sg
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Also, maybe she doesn't understand that a corset does not have to fit super
tight, a la that scene from "Gone With the Wind". It should just be as
comfortable and supportive as a good bra.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 2:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...

I am looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea.  I would really
like to distance myself from doing anything that is that grossly wrong - but
she seems interested in learning how to sew --- so I don't want to dissuade
her.

I should have said also, that I understand someone not posting a link
publicly...if you have something you would like to share, feel free to
contact me off-list.

Thanks, Saragrace


> From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 20:45:08 +0000
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
> 
> sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is
a bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? 
> 
> You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or
something. 
> Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them
as having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and
small bodies. 
> 
> Good luck!
> Lauren
>  
> 
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to 
> > make her a "sort" of accurate gown - This is an example of what she 
> > is looking for:
> > http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothi
> > ng/lady-vers
> > ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm
> > 
> > Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry 
> > due to a medical condition.
> > I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without 
> > the right undergarments....but I was looking for some examples I might
show her.
> > 
> > So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing 
> > proper undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same -
> > 
> > I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing 
> > proper
> > undergarments: 
> > 
> > http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Sg
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool
	footballhelmet
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Try a costume store. They often have mask type versions of various
hats/helmets. Can you make one out of an inexpensive play ball? Just cut out
the face part, spray paint it in the right colors and hot melt foam pieces
inside to fit (much like a bike helmet) 
Or, try to find a bike helmet that is the full round style, instead of the
swoopy, aerodynamic ones. Often little kid ones are more rounded. Then paint
it. And he can use it for his bike, too! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rebecca Schmitt
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 5:34 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool
footballhelmet

I'm starting to run out of ideas, so I'm asking here....
 
My 3-year-old wants to be a "football guy" for Halloween. We have a jersey,
I can rig up pants no problem. However, I'm stumped on the helmet. No one
seems to make toddler size play football helmets! The closest I can come up
with is a $45 complete football uniform which includes the helmet from the
NFL shop online.
 
Does anyone have any ideas? Somewhere else to look? (I've tried sports
stores, athletic apparel, only the full sets, if anything, especially for
this age). Some way to rig something up? Although, once it is made, it may
need to take a beating during Sunday afternoon football games :)
 
Thanks!
 
************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 07:51:02 -0500
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people
encountered
> that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does
happen
> -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the
issues
> that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1)
attempt
> to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of
work-around,
> or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without
> corsetry.
 
Abdominal issues too.  The corset may be on the torso but, especially
if there is much of a point, it can effect lower issues as well.
 
Catherine
 
 
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making a midcentury dress for this year's Christmas choir concert. Using =
one of the McCann patterns, I have chosen a Civil War quilt print fabric.  =
While of cotton, the =22hand=22 is very silky...purple nosegay of small =
roses on a tan background that also has a watermark streak through out.  I =
have modified the neckline to feature a real lace bertha from my =
collection. Bodice will be boned and piped as for an original. I will be =
facing the hem of the skirt with a contrast of about 12=22; this based on =
skirts of the period that I have or have seen elsewhere. Fitted muslin =
bodice was completed yesterday.
Since I am now officially retired, first time in years I have had time to =
do a gown for myself=21
Kathleen M
-----Original Message-----
From: =22Pierre & Sandy Pettinger=22 <costumrs=40radiks.net>
Sent 10/2/2008 12:29:03 AM
To: =22Historical Costume=22 <h-costume=40indra.com>
Subject: Re: =5Bh-cost=5D What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?I just =
finished a papier-mache full-head jack-o-lantern=20
mask/headpiece, which got packed for the event tonight.  Also just=20
packed is the item containing 7 - 3 foot tall satin stitched=20
appliques, some of which also have fabric painting and other=20
modification.  Hubby's worktable just produced a tunic and=20
soft-sculpted palazzo pants, and a whole mess of pumpkin leaves and=20
vines.  After this weekend I'll let you in on what it all is and what=20
happened with it.
Sandy
At 01:09 PM 9/29/2008, you wrote:
>It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
>company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th
>Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical
>locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making
>something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes=40gmail.com
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??????????=

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--------------Boundary-00=_WNTXPFF5ODJ0VLHR0NKS--
       

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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It sounds like my solution wouldn't help in this particular situation, but 
what I do when underwire bras become intolerable due to MS-related 
spasticity (all my muscles tighten up so that any pressure on them is 
painful) is wear a hip-length BSFG (bust supporting fitted gown).

Best support ever, and if made with larger or looser armholes and non-bulky 
seam finishes there's just nothing to dig in anywhere.  It doesn't need to 
be tight below the underbust area, so it might work well with gastric 
problems--it wouldn't replace the function of a pair of stays for an 18thC 
gown, though!

-E House 

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Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 09:28:58 -0700
From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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Chris Laning wrote:
>  <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
> > Anyway, sorry to be Devil's advocate; I know some people claim a
> > medical problem when they just don't want to wear a certain thing,
> > and it's not up to someone else to insist they can. But what about
> > people who can't take the pressure of stays / corset? What are they
> >  to do?
>
>  Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people
>  encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm
>  sure it does happen

>  Offhand, I can think of two issues where any kind of corsetry or
>  stiffening can be a problem.
>
>  Others?
>
Well, right now I am getting over a shoulder problem. I have almost all 
of my mobility back but I am still fighting some inflammation even 
though I rarely have anything but minor pain.
The other day I put on a lightly boned 1500 Italian dress to have a 
friend mark the hem for me and it only took about 2 minutes after it was 
laced up for me to start chanting "take this off, get it off me now!".
This is one of my favorite dresses (remodeled one more time so needed 
re-hemming) and it has always been comfortable before.
I suspect that the stiffening in the bodice combined with the shoulder 
straps was enough to put my shoulder into an uncomfortable spot.
It has minimal stiffening, just in the center front and the sides. I 
used multiple rows of that skinny plastic boning and a layer of canvas. 
I would not have expected it to be so uncomfortable.

I also have a dim memory of finding boned bodices uncomfortable while 
recovering from whiplash.

liz young
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You folks don't have the fat tummy issue to deal with when riding a  
horse SideSaddle.

  My "regular" period corset makes me look very good, but where do I  
put all the fat when I have to lift my right leg up and over the  
horse, to sit in my sidesaddle?  There is no where for it "all" to  
go!  Still trying to get a corset fit for riding.

Susan




On Oct 3, 08, at 8:51 AM, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people
> encountered
>> that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does
> happen
>> -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the
> issues
>> that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1)
> attempt
>> to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of
> work-around,
>> or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without
>> corsetry.
>
> Abdominal issues too.  The corset may be on the torso but, especially
> if there is much of a point, it can effect lower issues as well.
>
> Catherine
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
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Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> <snip>
> The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down the 
> waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion of a 
> smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little interior 
> support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the need for 
> compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be really tight to 
> do its job.
>
> andy
I confess that my knowledge of period correct corsetry is still rather 
new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen reference to 
this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources you can refer me 
to? I am a larger woman myself and if this is a more comfortable 
alternative then compression, I'll be glad to experiment with it.

Natalie
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On Oct 2, 08, at 6:56 PM, lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:

> I assume you have the whole, "stays are not that uncomfortable, and  
> before the 19th century tight-lacing was not the point" song and  
> dance by heart? I know some large women who surprise themselves by  
> *liking* stays.
> Lauren

Lauren,

As a member of the Over 50 and Over Weight Club, I agree that a  
correctly fitting corset feels just fine on a hot day in Period  
Clothing.  None of the "parts" touch each other, keeping everything  
where it belongs, minimizing sweaty areas.  My back also appreciates  
the support of the corset.  If I could only get a corset to  
accommodate "everything" when I ride Sidesaddle, I would look and feel  
better.  Still working on it.

Susan

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool
	football helmet
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Papier Machet formed around a balloon..when it is dry pop the ballon and glue stripps of foam on the inside to keepit smooth for you little player spraypaint the ourside with nontoxic paint from the craft store and i am sure you can find a decal from your favorite team to pu on it.
Bambi

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Thu, 10/2/08, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool football helmet
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, October 2, 2008, 10:03 PM

Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
>  No one
> seems to make toddler size play football helmets! The closest I can come
up
> with is a $45 complete football uniform which includes the helmet from the
> NFL shop online.
>  
> Does anyone have any ideas? 

How about a youth size mouthguard, those are pretty cheap, and some face 
paint rubbed under the eyes?


Dawn
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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I have had 5 car accident and a violent assault in my life,,,all damaging my back and neck to some degree.
I also manage to be disproprotionately busty...(40 H on a 6ft 280lb frame) 
Even a bad corset fit is tolerable for a few hours compared to a moredrately bad fit..Guess Im just lucky that way.

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Thu, 10/2/08, Ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
From: Ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, October 2, 2008, 6:39 PM

I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear
the constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre
Syndrome. Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-(  I'd give a lot to be
able to wear my gowns again. 

Kate

> Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered
that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does
happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues
that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to
exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do
the best they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry.
> 
> Offhand, I can think of two issues where any kind of corsetry or
stiffening can be a problem. One is for people in wheelchairs: if they are to
wear a corset at all, it must need to be designed for sitting rather than
standing, and I can imagine that for someone whow has limited mobility anyway,
not being able to bend freely at the waist could make some necessary movements
very difficult.
> 
> I also have a friend who finds that a normal 16th-century corset and
fitted gown cause too much of the weight of the skirt to be carried by her hips
and lower back, which she finds very painful. She does much better with
something where most of the weight of the dress hangs from the shoulders (loose
gowns, for instance, although she can also wear a fitted gown with a few bones
but not a full corset). In her case, the medical problem is nerve damage.
> 
> Others?
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
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"Cookies" have been around for a while, just not readily documentable - if 
that is what you mean - even Greenberg & Hammer carry them :) But good luck 
finding it documented earlier than the 19th Century. (Not saying impossible, 
just "bonne chance").

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- > I confess that my knowledge of period correct 
corsetry is still rather
> new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen reference to 
> this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources you can refer me to? 
> I am a larger woman myself and if this is a more comfortable alternative 
> then compression, I'll be glad to experiment with it.
>
> Natalie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
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On Oct 3, 2008, at 9:49 AM, Natalie wrote:

> Andrew T Trembley wrote:
>> <snip>
>> The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down  
>> the waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion  
>> of a smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little  
>> interior support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the  
>> need for compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be  
>> really tight to do its job.

> I confess that my knowledge of period correct corsetry is still  
> rather new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen  
> reference to this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources  
> you can refer me to? I am a larger woman myself and if this is a  
> more comfortable alternative then compression, I'll be glad to  
> experiment with it.

Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.

It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front  
of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm  
"twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not have been  
able to achieve the right silhouette.

Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling  
breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front.  
None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in  
portraits and sculpture.

If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about  
documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern  
techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a cheat,  
it's a completely invisible cheat.

andy
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
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helpful hint...
make the little pilow out of cotton or linen and put a velcro strip or tack=
 it in with big stiches...those of us busty girls can collect swet under th=
ere=A0 and having several to change out will help prevent bacteria growth ,=
smell and chaffing.i have tree..one on, one to have drying and one for the =
next day if i going to be wering the corset let us say for a whole week end.

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance =


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Fri, 10/3/08, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:
From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 3:22 PM

On Oct 3, 2008, at 9:49 AM, Natalie wrote:

> Andrew T Trembley wrote:
>> <snip>
>> The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down
 =

>> the waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion  =

>> of a smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little  =

>> interior support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the  =

>> need for compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be  =

>> really tight to do its job.

> I confess that my knowledge of period correct corsetry is still  =

> rather new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen  =

> reference to this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources  =

> you can refer me to? I am a larger woman myself and if this is a  =

> more comfortable alternative then compression, I'll be glad to  =

> experiment with it.

Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.

It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front  =

of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm  =

"twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not have
been  =

able to achieve the right silhouette.

Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling  =

breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front.  =

None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in  =

portraits and sculpture.

If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about  =

documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern  =

techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a cheat,  =

it's a completely invisible cheat.

andy
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



      =

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of 
how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or 
authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette.

Natalie
>
> Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.
>
> It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front 
> of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm 
> "twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not have been 
> able to achieve the right silhouette.
>
> Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling 
> breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front. 
> None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in 
> portraits and sculpture.
>
> If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about 
> documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern 
> techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a cheat, 
> it's a completely invisible cheat.
>
> andy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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ok honey, everybodies brests are different and place slightly differently. =
the best way to do it is to=A0 do a mock up corset ouf ot muslin then try i=
t on and not where the"gap" under the breasts is.. and make a ittle cotton =
or linen pillow or roll and tack it in..it will take a little trial and ero=
r but it int that hard.


Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance =


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Fri, 10/3/08, Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 5:11 PM

Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of =

how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or =

authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette.

Natalie
>
> Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.
>
> It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front =

> of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm =

> "twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not
have been =

> able to achieve the right silhouette.
>
> Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling =

> breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front. =

> None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in =

> portraits and sculpture.
>
> If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about =

> documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern =

> techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a
cheat, =

> it's a completely invisible cheat.
>
> andy
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      =

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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>  Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry.

I have an auto immune disease. I have toxic drugs to deal with it,
both cause problems

Sorry easier than starting off with Rheumatoid Arthritis as there are
too many assumptions made about it;)

I have to deal with pain and joint degradation every day but also
extreme fatigue and a body that simply cannot handle wearing the
frocks for long periods any more. Corsets are draining. I make mine
well, it's nothing to do with that. I just find after a few hours I
start to feel claustrophobic and need to get into something lighter/
looser. At events this is usually just put up with but I'm starting to
find my tolerance levels dropping. I had to leave an event a few weeks
back because I was about to have some sort of physical break down.

That was an extreme but what people assume about my disease is really
not everything that goes on.

Oh yeah and I do have digestive issues from 7+ years of daily
prednisone and anti-inflammatory use so anything tight/rigid around my
waist causes other issues.

Most of the time I do stick it out, but I'm looking at having to
change how I do things.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Hi Natalie.

When I wore a corset, I never used a "pillow". I'm a 46 DDD and the most I ever used was several 100% cotton tube sox or a folded and rolled up cotton or linen tea towel. Both worked well for me.

Kate
---- Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of 
> how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or 
> authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette.
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Double-sided velveteen
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Bad girl Joan!  My fingers are starting to twitch towards my credit card.  Looks loverly!  The colors are goregeous.  I'd order a swatch, or a small piece and wash it in the wash machine...it makes a BIG difference with 100% velvet/teen.

Sg



> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 21:35:05 -0700
> To: h-costume@indra.com; margospatterns@yahoogroups.com
> From: joanmj@surewest.net
> Subject: [h-cost] Double-sided velveteen
> 
> I just received my regular email from fabric.com.  They are having a 
> sale on double-sided velveteen.  Here's the 
> URL: 
> http://www.fabric.com/CategoryDetail.aspx?CategoryID=f77efb13-f39f-4057-949e-6aaef12352be
> 
> It might well be too heavy for clothes, though.  Has anyone used this 
> fabric before?
> 
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net 
> 
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 09:59:24 -0400
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On Oct 2, 2008, at 6:12 PM, Chris Laning wrote:
>
> I also have a friend who finds that a normal 16th-century corset  
> and fitted gown cause too much of the weight of the skirt to be  
> carried by her hips and lower back, which she finds very painful.  
> She does much better with something where most of the weight of the  
> dress hangs from the shoulders (loose gowns, for instance, although  
> she can also wear a fitted gown with a few bones but not a full  
> corset). In her case, the medical problem is nerve damage.

If there's nerve damage, anything corset-like might end up being  
uncomfortable, but in general, a well-fitted 16th-century corset and  
farthingale take the pressure *off* of the lower back and hips.  That  
is, if you do three things:  make the corset with straps, make sure  
the corset fits correctly (especially that it isn't too long), and  
tie the farthingale to the corset.  I don't have any medical issues,  
but I did have problems with lower back pain with my Elizabethans  
until I started tying my farthingale to my corset.  Once you do that,  
the pressure of the skirts should be distributed up the torso and  
through the shoulders rather than falling on the hips.

The issue with corsets being cut too long is one that I find  
frequently, especially with larger figures.  People gain weight  
differently, but for some, the apparent waistline drops as they get  
larger, and they tend to want the waistline of their corset to be  
where they wear the waistline of their clothing.  This generally  
results in the waistline of the corset being too low--sometimes so  
low that it's sitting on the hipbones and throwing the whole fit off  
as well as causing lower back issues.  For corsetry in general, the  
location of the waist should be judged by finding the bottom of the  
ribs and the top of the hipbones and aiming midway in between.  On  
larger figures, this can result in an uncomfortable bulge of flesh  
below the bottom of the corset, and in that case try the styles that  
have tabs on the bottom and continue the boning of the body of the  
corset to the bottom of the tabs.  That will dissipate the  
compression of the corset comfortably rather than creating a hard  
line that cuts into the midsection.  Of course, if you're doing the  
longer 19th-century corsets, you don't have worry about it as long as  
you get the waistline in the right place.

Melanie Schuessler
(who spent four years draping for an opera company)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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Good Day,
    Please try using a cotton camisole under the corset and per Renaissance 
Corp, larger ladies will roll small tea towels (white only it seems) and 
place under the breasts but I find this bothersome and  they can slip..
Personally, I hate trying to be a size 4-6 when I am a size 20, and my 
corsets do not close all the way in back...I like to breath too much. No one 
sees them and the bodice or surcoats cover the backs anyway and on hotter 
days that helps stay a wee bit cooler.
Ladies , we no longer need to kill ourselves. By the end of the day it is 
nice to get out of a corset but I find my back hurts less from wearing one 
and have thought on several days why not wear one all the time...just not so 
tight one can not breath.

Hope my wee input helps on this issue...
Ladye Paige in Virginia

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Hello,
    I too have that tummy area problem but have used a tabbed corset for 
many years but never lace  it all the way up the back.  Tabs come over the 
hip area slightly and when  I am being laced,  I ask someone to start at 
waist not bottom of corset, and I .never close the corset all the way ( I 
like to breath ) unless some deft gentleman who my be assisting with the 
chore manages to lace it tighter than usual  and gets the back closer 
together...you might find your tummy area won't poof so much when sitting 
and the more open back of the corset lets you back stay cooler and who is 
seeing it...only you know ....with areas such as VA, MD and PA, high 
humidity is quite an issue and then so is Wisconsin area...we just want to 
look the part...we are not really needing to be size 4-5 waists and 5' 
frames (unless that is what you are)..lets not forget that people have 
changed in our frame build since the 1500-1600's.
By the way, I wear this same corset for Renn Clothing, Victorian and now my 
Colonial. My corset fits nicely and why fool with another style that might 
not be as comfortable...The corset is really intended to give a smooth 
appearance is it not?

Enough input from a size 20, nearing 60's lady in Va.

Ladye Paige 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
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The pillows I=B4ve seen in theatrical costumes =

appear to be as wide as the distance between the =

two lowest points of an underwire bra=B4s wires and =

reach down to the point where the ribs emerge =

from the breast bone, sort of a padded triangle in the corset.
Another option is to put small pads (about the =

size of shoulderpads, but not bent) right under =

each breast. This is also good for ladies with =

small breasts - there are only a few days of the =

month when I have an A-cup, but the pads let me =

have really pretty "apples" in rococo-neckline. ;-)

Hanna


At 23:20 03.10.2008, you wrote:
>ok honey, everybodies brests are different and =

>place slightly differently. the best way to do =

>it is to  do a mock up corset ouf ot muslin then =

>try it on and not where the"gap" under the =

>breasts is.. and make a ittle cotton or linen =

>pillow or roll and tack it in..it will take a =

>little trial and eror but it int that hard.
>
>
>Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL
>
>
>
>I am made for great things by GOD
>
>and walk with Pride!!!!
>
>Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad
>
>see me dance
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7HMtOoXtMs0
>
>--- On Fri, 10/3/08, Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com> wrote:
>From: Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 5:11 PM
>
>Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of
>how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or
>authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette.
>
>Natalie
> >
> > Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.
> >
> > It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front
> > of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm
> > "twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not
>have been
> > able to achieve the right silhouette.
> >
> > Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling
> > breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front.
> > None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in
> > portraits and sculpture.
> >
> > If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about
> > documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern
> > techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a
>cheat,
> > it's a completely invisible cheat.
> >
> > andy
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
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>
>
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
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We have a member of our guilde at Bristol who has cardiac issues and is
unable to wear anything too binding. Even a well-fitted corset would cause
problems for her.

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
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This is very easy...I see horrible costumes on the net every day...

Try these:
http://www.wulflund.com/images_items/renaissance-ladies-dress-wine_2.jpg
http://www.wulflund.com/images_items/renaissance-dress-de-luxe_2.jpg
http://www.carolina-belles.com/shop/index.php?action=listingview&listingID=29&PHPSESSID=e69447e261aaf87273933f9885ab6f0e

Zuzana


      
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Subject: [h-cost] Corsetery issues
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Hi All,

If an actress doesn't raise the issue it is wise to ask if there are possible limitations. Years ago, costuming "Don Juan in Hell' I did the actress playing Dona Ana in a quick change when she chooses the age she wants to appear.
The dress had four skirts - a fine cotton underskirt, two skirts of a rough brown coarse weave with a yellow apron between the skirts, and an outer skirt of lightweight peach taffeta.
The entire dress, including a large wooden rosary with cross weighed eight pounds.
The actress was no amateur. The bodice was boned, there was shoulder support for the skirt weight but no corset.
At final dress the actress fainted. I was told she fainted the night before in the dressing room.
When asked what she thought the problem might be she fessed up that her floating ribs had been removed to make a smaller waist.
When asked why she had neither complained or volunteered that info she thought she could overcome it.
The fix was simple- change the heavier fabric for rayon liner which brought the dress weight down to three pounds and loosen the bodice slightly.
Real actress will suffer anything. The others are inexperienced and complain about anything.
Audy 

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Suzi Clarke wrote...
------------------------------

>Tudor clothing on display in the "provinces" is very rare, and there
>are not that many other collections - I cannot remember the name of
>one in Wales, used to be the Snowshill Collection - maybe if
>googled "Snowshill" you might find it?



I think it's now at Berrington Hall, a National Trust property in Herefordshire (near the Welsh border), but it can only be visited by prior arrangement. I visit the area every year, have been round the Hall but not managed to see the costume collection.

Haddon Hall in Derbyshire is worth seeing as well as Hardwick

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor
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Reporting on your conversation with Frank is about it.  Also, the JR Clancy
application.
Thanks, let me know if you have any questions.


Meredith Moseley-Bennett
Certification Coordinator
Entertainment Technician Certification Program-ETCP
875 Sixth Avenue, Suite 1005
NYC, NY 10001
Phone:  212.244.1505
Fax:  212.244.1502





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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples) (paige)
   2. Re: Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples) (paige)
   3. Re: Corsetry issues- interior pillows? (Hanna Zickermann)
   4. Re: Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
      (Rebecca Schmitt)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 10:12:03 -0400
From: "paige" <ladyepaige@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <BAY102-DAV2FB8E5CF6B8892D1E3C9BC03F0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
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Good Day,
    Please try using a cotton camisole under the corset and per Renaissance 
Corp, larger ladies will roll small tea towels (white only it seems) and 
place under the breasts but I find this bothersome and  they can slip..
Personally, I hate trying to be a size 4-6 when I am a size 20, and my 
corsets do not close all the way in back...I like to breath too much. No one

sees them and the bodice or surcoats cover the backs anyway and on hotter 
days that helps stay a wee bit cooler.
Ladies , we no longer need to kill ourselves. By the end of the day it is 
nice to get out of a corset but I find my back hurts less from wearing one 
and have thought on several days why not wear one all the time...just not so

tight one can not breath.

Hope my wee input helps on this issue...
Ladye Paige in Virginia



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 10:25:36 -0400
From: "paige" <ladyepaige@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <BAY102-DAV10C4EBBD1A4EE8C3C7F0BC03F0@phx.gbl>
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Hello,
    I too have that tummy area problem but have used a tabbed corset for 
many years but never lace  it all the way up the back.  Tabs come over the 
hip area slightly and when  I am being laced,  I ask someone to start at 
waist not bottom of corset, and I .never close the corset all the way ( I 
like to breath ) unless some deft gentleman who my be assisting with the 
chore manages to lace it tighter than usual  and gets the back closer 
together...you might find your tummy area won't poof so much when sitting 
and the more open back of the corset lets you back stay cooler and who is 
seeing it...only you know ....with areas such as VA, MD and PA, high 
humidity is quite an issue and then so is Wisconsin area...we just want to 
look the part...we are not really needing to be size 4-5 waists and 5' 
frames (unless that is what you are)..lets not forget that people have 
changed in our frame build since the 1500-1600's.
By the way, I wear this same corset for Renn Clothing, Victorian and now my 
Colonial. My corset fits nicely and why fool with another style that might 
not be as comfortable...The corset is really intended to give a smooth 
appearance is it not?

Enough input from a size 20, nearing 60's lady in Va.

Ladye Paige 



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:25:35 +0200
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <200810041425.m94EPimt047438@net.indra.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed

The pillows I?ve seen in theatrical costumes 
appear to be as wide as the distance between the 
two lowest points of an underwire bra?s wires and 
reach down to the point where the ribs emerge 
from the breast bone, sort of a padded triangle in the corset.
Another option is to put small pads (about the 
size of shoulderpads, but not bent) right under 
each breast. This is also good for ladies with 
small breasts - there are only a few days of the 
month when I have an A-cup, but the pads let me 
have really pretty "apples" in rococo-neckline. ;-)

Hanna


At 23:20 03.10.2008, you wrote:
>ok honey, everybodies brests are different and 
>place slightly differently. the best way to do 
>it is to  do a mock up corset ouf ot muslin then 
>try it on and not where the"gap" under the 
>breasts is.. and make a ittle cotton or linen 
>pillow or roll and tack it in..it will take a 
>little trial and eror but it int that hard.
>
>
>Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL
>
>
>
>I am made for great things by GOD
>
>and walk with Pride!!!!
>
>Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad
>
>see me dance
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0
>
>--- On Fri, 10/3/08, Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com> wrote:
>From: Natalie <natalieae@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 5:11 PM
>
>Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of
>how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or
>authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette.
>
>Natalie
> >
> > Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset.
> >
> > It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front
> > of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm
> > "twinkie" sized support pillow, without which they would not
>have been
> > able to achieve the right silhouette.
> >
> > Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling
> > breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front.
> > None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in
> > portraits and sculpture.
> >
> > If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about
> > documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern
> > techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a
>cheat,
> > it's a completely invisible cheat.
> >
> > andy
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 11:34:34 -0500
From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <AF93A42CF7464DA3AB7E037911697E34@OurComputer>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

We have a member of our guilde at Bristol who has cardiac issues and is
unable to wear anything too binding. Even a well-fitted corset would cause
problems for her.

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 




------------------------------

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Sorry - missed first message...
 
There's a bit in the National Museums of Scotland, in Edinburgh, but you'd  have to check whether it's on display or not.  Likewise The Armouries in  Leeds, though it's of the coat of plate variety (I know there are a couple of  coats and a hat on display there).
 
I agree that Hardwicke is a must.  
 
One of the problems with tudor clothing outside London is that it's likely  that many historic houses have little bits - the odd doublet, etc - but it will  be very spread out.  It's also quite hard to keep track of, as they will  keep selling it!
 
The snowshill collection (if you can find it) is definitely worthwhile  though.
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/10/2008 19:01:40 GMT Standard Time,  h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


Suzi  Clarke wrote...
------------------------------

>Tudor clothing on  display in the "provinces" is very rare, and there
>are not that many  other collections - I cannot remember the name of
>one in Wales, used to  be the Snowshill Collection - maybe if
>googled "Snowshill" you might  find it?



I think it's now at Berrington Hall, a National Trust  property in Herefordshire (near the Welsh border), but it can only be visited  by prior arrangement. I visit the area every year, have been round the Hall  but not managed to see the costume collection.

Haddon Hall in  Derbyshire is worth seeing as well as Hardwick

Kate  Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor


 



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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining here.

Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted the
belt was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last
replaced prior to 1980, if ever.  I looked up a place on line and
ordered a replacement, and my separating belt continued to work in the
meantime.  I installed the new wone when it arrived and everything was
good without a break in usage.  This weekend when I was pressed for
time when I found the four piece ensemble for my son's renn faire
excursion was due next weekend, not next month as I had thought, and I
have a another such ensemble for a friend's halloween costume, and
there's an SCA event between here and there that I need to put
together a few things and ...and... That's when I noticed that the
replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic crumbling off.  I
continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble getting the
machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension needed
to run the machine.

uuurggghhhh!!!!  Fortunately, the local shop believes they have the
belt I need in stock and my son has the time off to go and take the
picture of the machine and the bad belt in to get the right
replacement, so everything should work out just fine.  It's just that
I had a belt that lasted for at least 25 years, probably 55 years and
a simple replacement only lasted 8 months.  And those 8 months weren't
heavy usuage months either.

alex
taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that Waffenrock
tonight, so everything should be fine...

-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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I am glad to see that I am not the only one that :1.)  Sews on vintage machines (almost exclusively)2.) Can't get dates straight3.) Always over committed when it comes to costuming.4.) Can justify one more book or "butt load" of fabric.I just had a vintage machine "revelation" - I bought a 1960's vintage Kenmore a few years back because it was very much like the one my dad taught me to sew on.  It is a solid workhorse.Problem was it had a "removable" piece on the throat plate which allowed you to sew with just a "hole"  straight stitching or a slot  for zig zagging.  The thing rattled around and I broke tons of pins and needles, and finally just knocked the whole machine out of whack. (After I had just brought it home from the shop for its annual maintenance.)I joined a sewing machine repair yahoo group hoping for someone to tell me there was a solid  throat plate replacement.  All I got back was a bunch of admonishment for sewing over pins.  Grrrr.Then today, some blessed p!
 erson wrote me privately to inform me that that I had the removable plate in upside down....and that once I turned it over, I could sew over pins without a problem!!!  I have been vindicated!!!! "Sew"  Yes I understand you perfectly Alex!! We are two peas in a pod!Sg> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 09:06:10 -0500> From: garbaholic@gmail.com> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine woes> > Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining here.> > Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted the> belt was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last> replaced prior to 1980, if ever.  I looked up a place on line and> ordered a replacement, and my separating belt continued to work in the> meantime.  I installed the new wone when it arrived and everything was> good without a break in usage.  This weekend when I was pressed for> time when I found the four piece ensemble for my son's renn faire> excursion was due next wee!
 kend, not next month as I had thought, and I> have a another s!
 uch ensemble for a friend's halloween costume, and> there's an SCA event between here and there that I need to put> together a few things and ...and... That's when I noticed that the> replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic crumbling off.  I> continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble getting the> machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension needed> to run the machine.> > uuurggghhhh!!!!  Fortunately, the local shop believes they have the> belt I need in stock and my son has the time off to go and take the> picture of the machine and the bad belt in to get the right> replacement, so everything should work out just fine.  It's just that> I had a belt that lasted for at least 25 years, probably 55 years and> a simple replacement only lasted 8 months.  And those 8 months weren't> heavy usuage months either.> > alex> taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that Waffenrock> tonight, so everything should be fine...> > -- > "I'm buy!
 ing this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's> Friday..."  ;)> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Sorry about the previous post....it ran everything together.  I know I wouldn't have read it that way!


From: wickedfrau@msn.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine woes - OT
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 07:22:23 -0700










I am glad to see that I am not the only one that :
 Sews on vintage machines (almost exclusively) Can't get dates straight Always over committed when it comes to costuming.Can justify one more book or "butt load" of fabric.
I just had a vintage machine "revelation" - I bought a 1960's vintage Kenmore a few years back because it was very much like the one my dad taught me to sew on.  It is a solid workhorse.

Problem was it had a "removable" piece on the throat plate which allowed you to sew with just a "hole"  straight stitching or a slot  for zig zagging.  The thing rattled around and I broke tons of pins and needles, and finally just knocked the whole machine out of whack. (After I had just brought it home from the shop for its annual maintenance.)

I joined a sewing machine repair yahoo group hoping for someone to tell me there was a solid  throat plate replacement.  All I got back was a bunch of admonishment for sewing over pins.  Grrrr.

Then today, some blessed person wrote me privately to inform me that that I had the removable plate in upside down....and that once I turned it over, I could sew over pins without a problem!!!  

I have been vindicated!!!! 

"Sew"  Yes I understand you perfectly Alex!! We are two peas in a pod!

Sg










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Sounds like the belt was defective, or maybe had some oil on it . I seem to
remember that oil can break down rubber. Worth looking into, maybe check
that you don't have oil dripping onto the belt inside the machine. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 7:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine woes

Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining here.

Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted the belt
was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last replaced prior
to 1980, if ever.  I looked up a place on line and ordered a replacement,
and my separating belt continued to work in the meantime.  I installed the
new wone when it arrived and everything was good without a break in usage.
This weekend when I was pressed for time when I found the four piece
ensemble for my son's renn faire excursion was due next weekend, not next
month as I had thought, and I have a another such ensemble for a friend's
halloween costume, and there's an SCA event between here and there that I
need to put together a few things and ...and... That's when I noticed that
the replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic crumbling off.  I
continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble getting the
machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension needed to run
the machine.

uuurggghhhh!!!!  Fortunately, the local shop believes they have the belt I
need in stock and my son has the time off to go and take the picture of the
machine and the bad belt in to get the right replacement, so everything
should work out just fine.  It's just that I had a belt that lasted for at
least 25 years, probably 55 years and a simple replacement only lasted 8
months.  And those 8 months weren't heavy usuage months either.

alex
taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that Waffenrock tonight, so
everything should be fine...

--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know,
having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury,
mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday..."  ;)
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Mine has a beautiful black (sparkly beaded) strapless ball gown with a
broken zip... I need to get into a store and get a 22" zip for her...
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And the saga continues...  I've checked the replacement belt and there
doesn't appear to be any evidence of oil, I'm guessing that the
plastic may have been old and that's why it fell apart so quickly.
There's no telling how long it's been sitting on the shelf before I
received it.

The local shop thought that the belt might have been too tight and
that's why it went bad so fast so they gave my son a belt a little
larger... too large it turns out, didn't make any tension to the
proper parts, so he took it back and got another belt.  This belt
seemed to be right, but there was some issue with it working, the
mechanisms in the machine, not the motor, were not turning.  It was
funny because I looked down on the floor and found the original belt
that I had replaced last March - that I couldn't find two days ago.  I
compared it to the new belt and noted that while the outside of the
belt was the same size, the inside of the belts weren't, so I put the
old belt on, and then cleaned out the thread that had gotten wrapped
around inside of the upper mechanism and I have a happy sewing
machine... with the orignal belt.  I think I'm going to take the old
belt to some place like an auto supply place because this belt has
more in common with those than these plastic teeth things that I've
gotten lately.  That is, after I sew the waffenrock tonight and have
my first costume crisis of the month over with...

alex

On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 11:32 AM, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> Sounds like the belt was defective, or maybe had some oil on it . I seem to
> remember that oil can break down rubber. Worth looking into, maybe check
> that you don't have oil dripping onto the belt inside the machine.
>
>
> Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining here.
>
> Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted the belt
> was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last replaced prior
..... That's when I noticed that
> the replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic crumbling off.  I
> continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble getting the
> machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension needed to run
> the machine.
>
> uuurggghhhh!!!!  Fortunately, the local shop believes they have the belt I
> need in stock and my son has the time off to go and take the picture of the
> machine and the bad belt in to get the right replacement, so everything
> should work out just fine.  It's just that I had a belt that lasted for at
> least 25 years, probably 55 years and a simple replacement only lasted 8
> months.  And those 8 months weren't heavy usuage months either.
>
> alex
> taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that Waffenrock tonight, so
> everything should be fine...
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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Hi,
I was reading Mme. d"Aulnoy's Princess Mayblossom (I have kind of a  
thing for the whole 13th-fairy figure) and in this version http:// 
www.surlalunefairytales.com/authors/aulnoy/1892/ 
princessmayblossom.html, the fairies who were invited to the baby's  
birth were promised quite the gift bag:
> And to reward them for their trouble, they were promised a  
> hongreline (Note 1) of blue velvet, a skirt of amaranth velvet, and  
> slippers of crimson satin, a pair of little gilden scissors, and a  
> case full of fine needles.

Note 1 says a hongreline is a Hungarian coat. A little further poking  
on the Web suggests it was a fur-lined or fur-trimmed justaucorps. I  
have found a couple of pictures of a military/men's version, but have  
not tracked down the female version that seems most likely to be of  
interest to skirt-wearing fairies. The outfit does a kind of spectrum  
thing, head to toes blue-purple-red (amaranth is a purpleish red).  
Anyway D'Aulnoy is 17th century, so I am looking for any clues on  
where to find a picture of a woman's 17th century hongreline. Any  
advice would be most helpful.

No wonder the disinvited fairy was angry -- gilden scissors and a  
case full of fine needles! Later on the queen is so grateful she  
gives the fairies ribbons, too, "which they loved". These fairies  
sound kind of like costumers...

Thank you!
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 01:17:52 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] More on hongreline
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Looking further at sites in French, I find that the hongreline was a  
jacket with long skirts that was closed in front and close-fitting.  
Still no picture though!

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
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I've just finished two silk corsets, one 1876 and one from the beginning of the 17th century, a reproduction of the Dorothea corset:

http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/1876%20corset.jpg 
http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/dorothea%20bodies.jpg 

The straps of the Dorothea corset are a real pain, next time I make tie-on straps. I didn't make any tabs, because I just couldn't figure out how to attach them to the corset to make it look good from the outside as well as inside. I just didn't know how to continue with the bias binding there.

Zuzana


      
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My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
University.
Monica



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hongreline
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I found the following in a quick search that was full of non-functioning 
hotlinks. Hmmph! It does not add much; let me catch up with my assistant and 
whip her into returning my fashion dictionaries to see what's said. It is odd 
that there are no easy-to-find pics of the feamle version, it does sound a 
little like an 18-19th century riding coat sitting tight over the body and 
flairing for the skirt.

-C.

The hongreline was a mid-thigh-length surtout or overcoat of the frock style, 
usually trimmed and/or lined with fur developed and popularized during the mid-
17th Century. Brought from Germany, the hongreline was popular in France during 
the reign of Louis XIII. The hongreline was both worn by military and 
civilians. At the end of the reign, a variation on the hongreline developed in 
the military; a sort of front-buttoned coat with a split in the rear near the 
hips.




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Congratulations on your graduation, Monica!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


> My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
> University.
> Monica
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Lovely corsets, Zuana! Thank you for sharing!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:34 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


> I've just finished two silk corsets, one 1876 and one from the beginning 
> of the 17th century, a reproduction of the Dorothea corset:
>
> http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/1876%20corset.jpg
> http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/dorothea%20bodies.jpg
>
> The straps of the Dorothea corset are a real pain, next time I make tie-on 
> straps. I didn't make any tabs, because I just couldn't figure out how to 
> attach them to the corset to make it look good from the outside as well as 
> inside. I just didn't know how to continue with the bias binding there.
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>
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> 


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For non-functioning links, try the WaybackMachine:  
http://www.archive.org/index.php

They don't have everything, but it's worth a shot.

Quoting stilskin@netspace.net.au:

> I found the following in a quick search that was full of non-functioning
> hotlinks.

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This is interesting!  I tried to look the word up in the Grimm German Etymo=
logical dictionary and didn't find a thing...then it occurred to me that it=
 probably wasn't spelled the same...as the German word for Hungary is Ungar=
n.    Still no luck....  The "line" part of the word is probably a derivati=
on of "lein" which is a diminutive.  So something like "little Hungarian [J=
acket].   (Like "br=FCstlein" is the one word for corset/stays) =



I will forward the question on to my German costuming list because there ar=
e several people there with better resources than I.  (I am assuming that w=
ill be okay - if not, you can yell at me  :).)  I will also attempt to find=
 it in Max Von Boehn's works since I have them in German.

Sg




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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 11:09:17 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks! Mike T sent me a note that the 17th century women's version  =

might be like the bedgown-like garment in Vermeer's Woman Holding a  =

Balance; the French written  sources my online search turned up all  =

were versions of the one C. sent (below), from which it is hard to  =

tell if the women's version was loose, as in the Vermeer, or fitted  =

("serre=E9 =E0 la taille" seems to mean "close-fitting"; "=E0 grandes  =

basques" seems to mean "with full skirts", but I am just at the  =

beginnings of learning to translate historical-fashion French). Some  =

of the men's military versions look fitted; some look like an attempt  =

to fit a fur-lined garment, and some seem open, like in the Vermeer.  =

But what version would be made in blue velvet to appeal to a 17th- =

century fairy? ;-)

  la hongreline, sorte de veste =E0 basques longues agraf=E9e sur le  =

devant et serr=E9e =E0 la taille.

HONGRELINE, s. f. (Gram. & mod.) sorte d'ajustement des femmes, fait  =

en chemisette =E0 grandes basques. On pr=E9tend qu'il a =E9t=E9 ainsi  =

appell=E9, parce que l'usage en est venu de Hongrie.

So far the only pictures I have found that identify a garment as a  =

hongreline in the captions or titles are all military, like this one.  =

Third figure in this picture is an officer in a (presumably military)  =

hongreline (sorry for the long link, must learn to use tinyURL soon):
  http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital_dev/ =

dgkeysearchdetail.cfm? =

trg=3D1&strucID=3D707231&imageID=3D830336&total=3D2&num=3D0&word=3DMusketee=
rs%20-- =

%20French%20--% =

201600-1699&s=3D3&notword=3D&d=3D&c=3D&f=3D2&k=3D0&lWord=3D&lField=3D&sScop=
e=3D&sLevel=3D&sL =

abel=3D&imgs=3D20&pos=3D1&e=3Dw


Another question while I am here: I've been reading TH Breen's _The  =

Marketplace of Revolution_ ,which I recommend to anybody doing 18th  =

Century American historical costume, as to make his case he's  =

assembled a lot of information from varied sources on the social  =

connotations of clothing made of imported goods. Among the materials  =

he quotes are published rants about people dressing above their  =

station, and the threat to good order represented by maids in chintz.  =

In at least one of these, the rant-writer is upset that even servant- =

girls go about in velvet. I had been under the impression that in  =

18th century fashion, velvet was primarily used in men's garments.  =

Anybody have an example of a woman's velvet anything in the English  =

colonies of North America in the 1700s?

Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Oct 10, 2008, at 6:07 AM, stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:

> I found the following in a quick search that was full of non- =

> functioning
> hotlinks. Hmmph! It does not add much; let me catch up with my  =

> assistant and
> whip her into returning my fashion dictionaries to see what's said.  =

> It is odd
> that there are no easy-to-find pics of the feamle version, it does  =

> sound a
> little like an 18-19th century riding coat sitting tight over the  =

> body and
> flairing for the skirt.
>
> -C.
>
> The hongreline was a mid-thigh-length surtout or overcoat of the  =

> frock style,
> usually trimmed and/or lined with fur developed and popularized  =

> during the mid-
> 17th Century. Brought from Germany, the hongreline was popular in  =

> France during
> the reign of Louis XIII. The hongreline was both worn by military and
> civilians. At the end of the reign, a variation on the hongreline  =

> developed in
> the military; a sort of front-buttoned coat with a split in the  =

> rear near the
> hips.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 11:23:57 -0400
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Thanks, Saragrace! Please let me know what you find.  I am not sure  =

if the Grimms picked up this fairy tale -- the wikipedia entry on the  =

Wicked Fairy Godmother points out that Princess Mayblossom has  =

significant differences from Perrault's and the Grimms' Sleeping  =

Beauty (the 13th fairy in the D'Aulnoy is called Carabosse, and the  =

name gets attached to the bad fairy in Tchaikovsky's ballet of  =

Sleeping Beauty) but the specific description of the gifts intended  =

for the fairies is something I've only seen in the D'Aulnoy; and thus  =

the hongreline is only there.

I should know this, but is the "-line" ending in French typically  =

taken from a German "-lein"? I never thought about it before; but  =

there are so many "-line" endings in French. Crinoline, orpheline, etc.

If it helps anything, the military hongreline seems to have turned up  =

on Swedish troops. Just to throw something else into the etymological  =

mix.

Thank you again!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Oct 10, 2008, at 11:00 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> This is interesting!  I tried to look the word up in the Grimm  =

> German Etymological dictionary and didn't find a thing...then it  =

> occurred to me that it probably wasn't spelled the same...as the  =

> German word for Hungary is Ungarn.    Still no luck....  The "line"  =

> part of the word is probably a derivation of "lein" which is a  =

> diminutive.  So something like "little Hungarian [Jacket].   (Like  =

> "br=FCstlein" is the one word for corset/stays)
>
>
> I will forward the question on to my German costuming list because  =

> there are several people there with better resources than I.  (I am  =

> assuming that will be okay - if not, you can yell at me  :).)  I  =

> will also attempt to find it in Max Von Boehn's works since I have  =

> them in German.
>
> Sg
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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English and North American, no, but I've seen two portraits of Marie Antoinette wearing what could only be velvet.

Perhaps the writer didn't mean an article of clothing in velvet. In my understanding of the phraseology of the time (which is vague at best) "wearing velvet" could just mean a velvet ribbon or somesuch.



Claudine



----- Original Message ----

<snipped>

Another question while I am here: I've been reading TH Breen's _The  
Marketplace of Revolution_ ,which I recommend to anybody doing 18th  
Century American historical costume, as to make his case he's  
assembled a lot of information from varied sources on the social  
connotations of clothing made of imported goods. Among the materials  
he quotes are published rants about people dressing above their  
station, and the threat to good order represented by maids in chintz.  
In at least one of these, the rant-writer is upset that even servant- 
girls go about in velvet. I had been under the impression that in  
18th century fashion, velvet was primarily used in men's garments.  
Anybody have an example of a woman's velvet anything in the English  
colonies of North America in the 1700s?
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The dictionary just happens to be a BIG project the Grimm brothers worked o=
n.  It is still the standard for German etymology.  No connection to the fa=
iry tales.  =


I am not sure there is a connection between the  line/lein  endings...I jus=
t thought there might be because someone said that it "was brought back" (f=
rom Hungary) by the Germans....  Sometimes you can actually find the connec=
tion between the languages because of the similartity.  Kind of like verdin=
gale and farthingale..... =


Here is what my buddy Katherine had to say from the German list:
(If you would like the line drawings from the dictionary, I am sure Katheri=
ne would oblige)
"Not German, French!
 =

 =

Hongreline (s.f.) La hongreline fut une sorte de surtout port=E9 au d=E9but=
 du
XVIIe si=E9cle par-dessus le pourpoint.  Elle =E9tait =E0 peu pr=E8s ajust=
=E9e;
d'abord les manches, non cousues aux entournures, y =E9taient li=E9es par d=
es
aiguillettes, puis elles firent corps avec le v=EAtement d'hiver, bord=E9 et
m=EAme doubl=E9 de fourrure.  Les femmes port=E9rent jusque sous Louis XIV,=
 des
hongrelines =E0 manches et =E0 basques, mais non fourr=E9es."
 =

[Hongreline (feminine) The hongreline was a sort of overdress worn at the
beginning of the 17th century over the pourpoint.  It was a little
tailored, mostly in the sleeves, which were not sewn into the armholes,
and were tied in with aglets, added to the body of the garment for winter
wear, bordered or even lined with fur.  Women wore this into the reign of
Louis XIV, with sleeves and skirts, but not furred.] (translation mine)
 =

From: Dictionnaire du costume et de ses accessoires, des armes et des
=E9toffes, des origines =E0 nos jours. Achev=E9 et r=E9alis=E9 sous la dire=
ction de
Andr=E9 Dupuis. Pr=E9f. de G.G.-Toudouze.
Author: Leloir, Maurice, 1853-1940.
Publication: Paris, Gr=FCnd [1961, c1951]
 =

The Dictionary has some line drawings that will help the person with the
query.  The garment is similar to:
 =

http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/BRGPOD/259768~Constantijn-Huyg=
ens-Posters.jpg
 =

The red garments here are also similar:
http://www.artsmia.org/mia/e_images/10/mia_10450e.jpg
 =

SG, drop me a note off line if you want more details.
 =

Katherine"



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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:18:34 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hongreline
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This is great! Thank you. I appreciate getting both the translation  =

and the original; it helps me learn the French historical-fashion  =

vocabulary. And finally a definition that is aware of both the men's  =

and the women's versions, and explains the fur and not-fur. I would  =

like the line drawings if they are not too much trouble.

Thank you also for the background on the Grimms' dictionary. This is  =

something I should have known, and now I do!
Thanks again,
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Oct 10, 2008, at 7:05 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

>
>
>
> The dictionary just happens to be a BIG project the Grimm brothers  =

> worked on.  It is still the standard for German etymology.  No  =

> connection to the fairy tales.
>
> I am not sure there is a connection between the  line/lein   =

> endings...I just thought there might be because someone said that  =

> it "was brought back" (from Hungary) by the Germans....  Sometimes  =

> you can actually find the connection between the languages because  =

> of the similartity.  Kind of like verdingale and farthingale.....
>
> Here is what my buddy Katherine had to say from the German list:
> (If you would like the line drawings from the dictionary, I am sure  =

> Katherine would oblige)
> "Not German, French!
>
>
> Hongreline (s.f.) La hongreline fut une sorte de surtout port=E9 au  =

> d=E9but du
> XVIIe si=E9cle par-dessus le pourpoint.  Elle =E9tait =E0 peu pr=E8s ajus=
t=E9e;
> d'abord les manches, non cousues aux entournures, y =E9taient li=E9es  =

> par des
> aiguillettes, puis elles firent corps avec le v=EAtement d'hiver,  =

> bord=E9 et
> m=EAme doubl=E9 de fourrure.  Les femmes port=E9rent jusque sous Louis  =

> XIV, des
> hongrelines =E0 manches et =E0 basques, mais non fourr=E9es."
>
> [Hongreline (feminine) The hongreline was a sort of overdress worn  =

> at the
> beginning of the 17th century over the pourpoint.  It was a little
> tailored, mostly in the sleeves, which were not sewn into the  =

> armholes,
> and were tied in with aglets, added to the body of the garment for  =

> winter
> wear, bordered or even lined with fur.  Women wore this into the  =

> reign of
> Louis XIV, with sleeves and skirts, but not furred.] (translation  =

> mine)
>
> From: Dictionnaire du costume et de ses accessoires, des armes et des
> =E9toffes, des origines =E0 nos jours. Achev=E9 et r=E9alis=E9 sous la  =

> direction de
> Andr=E9 Dupuis. Pr=E9f. de G.G.-Toudouze.
> Author: Leloir, Maurice, 1853-1940.
> Publication: Paris, Gr=FCnd [1961, c1951]
>
> The Dictionary has some line drawings that will help the person  =

> with the
> query.  The garment is similar to:
>
> http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/BRGPOD/ =

> 259768~Constantijn-Huygens-Posters.jpg
>
> The red garments here are also similar:
> http://www.artsmia.org/mia/e_images/10/mia_10450e.jpg
>
> SG, drop me a note off line if you want more details.
>
> Katherine"
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
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Thanks!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Gilbert
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 7:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


Congratulations on your graduation, Monica!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


> My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
> University.
> Monica
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Glad to know that the belt problem was solved.

Wanted you to know that I love your sig line so much I want to use it too!
(Do you want credit?).  It is way too accurate.  I'm sitting here if front
of a pile of 8 new books, one of which is a duplicate that I know I will
NEED for a present and the others are simply because I may have a century to
read they sometime.  Besides.  They aren't going to be any cheaper!

Regina
>
> --
> "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness, flood,
> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
> Friday..."  ;)

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks you, actually I borrowed it from another, originally it was
only about fabric, and had something about chocolate emergencies in
there, something I don't have a problem with and books are required
almost as much as fabric around here.

The waffenrock is done, though after this weekend I want to add some
trim to it, it just needs a little something, and my son did like the
idea of a really large codpiece that I didn't have time to make this
week...

Now I'm working on a redress of a pocelan doll, to be a purple and
black witch on a broom of violets, a soft sculpture ghost for the
haunted house and a couple of banners, so it's a major play weekend,
Yay!

alex
happy to be making things for her family

On Sat, Oct 11, 2008 at 2:40 PM, Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
> Glad to know that the belt problem was solved.
>
> Wanted you to know that I love your sig line so much I want to use it too!
> (Do you want credit?).  It is way too accurate.  I'm sitting here if front
> of a pile of 8 new books, one of which is a duplicate that I know I will
> NEED for a present and the others are simply because I may have a century to
> read they sometime.  Besides.  They aren't going to be any cheaper!
>
> Regina
>>
>> --
>> "I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
>> know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness, flood,
>> injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
>> Friday..."  ;)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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At least, for a noble lady. This is Mildred, Lady Burghley  about 1566.
http://foto.rambler.ru/public/grebnelim/7/003/003-webbig.jpg

Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit, really? It always looks like
elastic to me, which of course it isn't. Is it part of a kirtle of some
kind? Does anyone know more about htis painting or this garment?

No, I'm not pregnant. Just idle curiosity. :-)


MaggiRos
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It looks like netting to me.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maggie
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 4:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes

At least, for a noble lady. This is Mildred, Lady Burghley  about 1566.
http://foto.rambler.ru/public/grebnelim/7/003/003-webbig.jpg

Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit, really? It always looks like
elastic to me, which of course it isn't. Is it part of a kirtle of some
kind? Does anyone know more about htis painting or this garment?

No, I'm not pregnant. Just idle curiosity. :-)


MaggiRos
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think that she is just wearing a loose kirtle and gown, like what is in
Janet Arnold. I have a picture of me while 7-8 months pregnant in a loose
kirtle & overgown based on that pattern (actually a Margo Anderson pattern
based on the Janet Arnold...), and I think it's a pretty similar silhouette.
I don't have a place to post the photo online, but I can send it to you, if
you would like to compare.

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie
> Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 6:55 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes
> 
> At least, for a noble lady. This is Mildred, Lady Burghley  
> about 1566.
> http://foto.rambler.ru/public/grebnelim/7/003/003-webbig.jpg
> 
> Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit, really? It 
> always looks like elastic to me, which of course it isn't. Is 
> it part of a kirtle of some kind? Does anyone know more about 
> htis painting or this garment?
> 
> No, I'm not pregnant. Just idle curiosity. :-)
> 
> 
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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This appears to be a kirtle and loose gown. Perhaps the material was
embroidered and then cut on the bias.


De

-----Original Message-----
At least, for a noble lady. This is Mildred, Lady Burghley  about 1566.
http://foto.rambler.ru/public/grebnelim/7/003/003-webbig.jpg

Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit, really? It always looks like
elastic to me, which of course it isn't. Is it part of a kirtle of some
kind? Does anyone know more about htis painting or this garment?

No, I'm not pregnant. Just idle curiosity. :-)


MaggiRos


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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
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I have been up way too long trying to keep the new kitten and the even newer puppy from kiling each other so please excuse the vagueries.
I beliebe there is a Hans holbein portrait of Thomas Moore?and his family?mostly women ...and at least one if not two of the wome if I amnot mistaken , are obviously pregnant and seem to have slit ther gowns p the fron and then laced it to allow for the growing tummy...
i is 11:30 here so please corret me if im wrong..

l
Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Sat, 10/11/08, Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
From: Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 10:10 PM

I think that she is just wearing a loose kirtle and gown, like what is in
Janet Arnold. I have a picture of me while 7-8 months pregnant in a loose
kirtle & overgown based on that pattern (actually a Margo Anderson pattern
based on the Janet Arnold...), and I think it's a pretty similar
silhouette.
I don't have a place to post the photo online, but I can send it to you, if
you would like to compare.

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie
> Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 6:55 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes
> 
> At least, for a noble lady. This is Mildred, Lady Burghley  
> about 1566.
> http://foto.rambler.ru/public/grebnelim/7/003/003-webbig.jpg
> 
> Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit, really? It 
> always looks like elastic to me, which of course it isn't. Is 
> it part of a kirtle of some kind? Does anyone know more about 
> htis painting or this garment?
> 
> No, I'm not pregnant. Just idle curiosity. :-)
> 
> 
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Yes, two women but the More painting is earlier then her painting. The style
of the dresses are different.

De

-----Original Message-----
I beliebe there is a Hans holbein portrait of Thomas Moore?and his
family?mostly women ...and at least one if not two of the wome if I amnot
mistaken , are obviously pregnant and seem to have slit ther gowns p the
fron and then laced it to allow for the growing tummy...
i is 11:30 here so please corret me if im wrong..

l
Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:53:18 -0700
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes
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The More women hadn't slit their dresses. It's just the early/mid-century
style.They were made to lace that way. What the picture shows is the lacing
without the stomacher or (over) gown. For a pregnant woman at home, it must
have been much more comfortable.

Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595)  in maternity. (Why would you have
your picture painted at this stage!?)
http://picasaweb.google.com/Designs121/ElizabethanCostume#5121609088447398002

But it's a different style (a couple decades earlier) than Lady Burghley's
kirtle and gown. what confuses me is the embrodered or whatever top part of
the kirtle and how it just stops.



MaggiRos
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller

On Sat, Oct 11, 2008 at 9:23 PM, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Yes, two women but the More painting is earlier then her painting. The
> style
> of the dresses are different.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I beliebe there is a Hans holbein portrait of Thomas Moore?and his
> family?mostly women ...and at least one if not two of the wome if I amnot
> mistaken , are obviously pregnant and seem to have slit ther gowns p the
> fron and then laced it to allow for the growing tummy...
> i is 11:30 here so please corret me if im wrong..
>
>
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Maggie wrote:
> The More women hadn't slit their dresses. It's just the early/mid-century
> style.They were made to lace that way. What the picture shows is the lacing
> without the stomacher or (over) gown. For a pregnant woman at home, it must
> have been much more comfortable.
> 
> Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595)  in maternity. (Why would you have
> your picture painted at this stage!?)

To record that you were fulfilling one of your most important duties, 
that of creating heirs for the family.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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I know that Herni W. Bendel is a present day store. But in 1917 would he have been a fashion designer?  I have an article in a Harper's from 1917 with fashion plates by this person.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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That must be it.

On Sat, Oct 11, 2008 at 10:41 PM, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>wrote:

>
>
> Maggie wrote:
>
>> Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595)  in maternity. (Why would you have
>> your picture painted at this stage!?)
>>
>
> To record that you were fulfilling one of your most important duties, that
> of creating heirs for the family.
>
>
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 14:05:42 -0400 (EDT)
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     I wonder =97 what were the 16thC attitudes regarding pregnancy? The
Victorians were all for hiding it away, and earlier attitudes are
sometimes filtered through this. Also I've heard plenty of modern
pregnant women complain of looking and feeling fat. But was that the
case for 16thC women?

     -Carol


> That must be it.
>
> On Sat, Oct 11, 2008 at 10:41 PM, Lavolta Press
> <fran@lavoltapress.com>wrote:
>
>> To record that you were fulfilling one of your most important duties,
>> that of creating heirs for the family.
>>
>> Maggie wrote:
>>
>>> Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595) in maternity. (Why would you
>>> have your picture painted at this stage!?)


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Check this out:
=A0
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_497.htm
=A0
Very drool worthy!








--- On Sun, 10/12/08, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

From: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Herni Bendel history
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 2:27 AM

I know that Herni W. Bendel is a present day store. But in 1917 would he ha=
ve
been a fashion designer?  I have an article in a Harper's from 1917 with
fashion plates by this person.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
_______________________________________________



      =

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Henri Bendel was a shopkeeper, like RH Macy and B Altman.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 2:27 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Herni Bendel history


I know that Herni W. Bendel is a present day store. But in 1917 would he
have been a fashion designer?  I have an article in a Harper's from 1917
with fashion plates by this person.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Many women were painted while pregnant. Remember-- not only was she doing
her duty, but she had a 25% chance of dying while doing it.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes




Maggie wrote:
> The More women hadn't slit their dresses. It's just the early/mid-century
> style.They were made to lace that way. What the picture shows is the
lacing
> without the stomacher or (over) gown. For a pregnant woman at home, it
must
> have been much more comfortable.
>
> Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595)  in maternity. (Why would you have
> your picture painted at this stage!?)

To record that you were fulfilling one of your most important duties,
that of creating heirs for the family.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone Read Czech?
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I was wondering if anyone on this list reads Czech. Part of my 
website is cited in a PDF i found on a Czech website:
http://www.kostym.cz/Cesky/4_Odivani/osmane.pdf

I can tell the PDF is about some aspect of 16th century Ottoman 
clothing, but I wonder what the exact title is in English:
NASTIN ODEVU V OSMANSKE RISE V 16.STOLETI
Ing. Martina Hribova Ph.D.
(i removed accent marks since they don't always transfer in e-mail)

I also wonder if there's any specific reference in the text to my 
website (and if it's unfavorable, i'm interested in the details, so i 
can make improvements).

I am not asking for a complete translation. I mean, i'd love one, but 
i wouldn't expect anyone to go to all that trouble.

Please contact me off-list: lilinah (at) earthlink (dot) net

Thanks,

Anahita
SCA: Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
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Check this out:
?
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_497.htm
?
Very drool worthy!
----------------------------

*drooooool*

And those little satin glass beads in rows? I have a *bunch* of those! 

*starts madly plotting*

Kate McClure
Anything can be improved with a solid maniacal laugh. 
- M.E.


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm sending you an answer off-list:-)

Zuzana



      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
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Well mine are not wearing much.
But there is a lot on my worktable.
A blue and brown high waisted skirt I need to finish.
6 Bunny winter coats.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/dress/Jasjes.jpg
A 19th century corset that needs to be finished before Friday
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/dress/Korset.jpg
And a Ball Jointed Doll 19th century dress.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/dress/kerstboom.jpg
Still needs sleeves, a berthe and closure.
Somewhere there is a Gothic Bunny dress in pieces
Greetings,
       Deredere

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Thank you Monica and Chris for your help.  

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.

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Subject: [h-cost] Baltimore MD: Need Suggestions for Costumes to See
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I am going to be in Baltimore Maryland next week, Tuesday-Friday.  Does anyone have suggestions as to costume related places to visit?  I am tagging along with my husband on a business trips, so my days are open to travel around.

I live 100 miles south of DC, so I can go there anytime.  I generally go to Baltimore once a year and do tourist things with family in tow.  This is my first time without my entire family.  

Penny Ladnier,
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--- On Sat, 10/11/08, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
> Now the question is, what is the 'bodice" bit,
> really? It always looks like
> elastic to me, which of course it isn't. 


Looking at it, I am wondering if it is some sort of metal thread embroidery, done on the diagonal, and just done at the top area to sort of emphasize the top vs the remaining black bottom of the loose kirtle. I think the top portion would be easier to embroider that way, as from the belt portion down, the fabric flows & drapes more than the upper portion. As to why diagonally, I don't know.

It is also interesting to my eye that the belt is exactly at the widest portion of her waist, as if to emphasize just how pregnant she is at that point. I remember putting on a girdle to my Tudor gown when I was heavier and hating how it ended up making me look even bigger than I thought I should be, but being fat vs. being proudly pregnant is two different mind sets.

Kimiko





      
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Hello to the list!

I know some of you teach or have taught textile classes, and it is you to 
whom I come with a request for assistance:

I am in the process of writing up a pair of fiber classes (Fibers 101 and 
102) and I am looking for a textiles textbook with useful discussions of 
fiber properties including hand, drape, shrinkage, all that good stuff. I 
have had Kadolph & Langford's _Textiles_ recommended to me as the one 
that's used at the U of M(innesota)--are there any others that people 
might recommend?

Many thanks,

Jen
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for a textiles textbook
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I don't know if this counts as a textbook, but I think Claire Shaeffer's "Fabric Sewing Guide" has all the information you 
mentioned.  It's a great book!

My copy was published by Chilton Book Company in 1989.   ISBN: 0-8019-7802-5

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
   http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com

I know some of you teach or have taught textile classes, and it is you to
whom I come with a request for assistance:

I am in the process of writing up a pair of fiber classes (Fibers 101 and
102) and I am looking for a textiles textbook with useful discussions of
fiber properties including hand, drape, shrinkage, all that good stuff. I
have had Kadolph & Langford's _Textiles_ recommended to me as the one
that's used at the U of M(innesota)--are there any others that people
might recommend?

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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:12:29 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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We use the Fairchild Textbook: "Fabric Science", 8th ed. by Price, Cohen,
Johnson. Has a workbook with swatches. Pretty technical, but no color pics
like "Textiles" by Kandolf.


Monica
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 1:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] searching for a textiles textbook


Hello to the list!

I know some of you teach or have taught textile classes, and it is you to
whom I come with a request for assistance:

I am in the process of writing up a pair of fiber classes (Fibers 101 and
102) and I am looking for a textiles textbook with useful discussions of
fiber properties including hand, drape, shrinkage, all that good stuff. I
have had Kadolph & Langford's _Textiles_ recommended to me as the one
that's used at the U of M(innesota)--are there any others that people
might recommend?

Many thanks,

Jen
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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I don't know what level are you looking for, but an excellent and very practical book is "All about ..." (cotton/wool/linen/silk). It includes none of such technical info no one understands (weaving details) but it tells you what you can expect from the fabric: what style of clothing to choose, how does the thing behave when sewing, drape, cleaning suggestions... it says everything one would want to know about a fabric. And, it includes SWATCHES!
There are always two A4 pages for one kind of fabric (ex. cotton batiste).

This is, however, not for professionals that need technical info about manufacturing etc. It is for sewers and designers.

Contact me if you would like to know more:-)

Zuzana 



      
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From: "Onaree Berard" <msberard@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Have a question about a magazine
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I saw this magazine listed on Amazon.com --

Medieval History - England
http://www.amazon.com/Medieval-History-England/dp/B00007J7P2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=magazines&qid=1224123227&sr=1-2

Does anyone know anything about it. Is is any good or with purchasing?

Onaree
-- 
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 22:51:25 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?
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I have an illustration of three beautiful hats from a 1922 French fashion magazine and the caption is:

"Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags"

What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google "jour des Drags" images come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.

This magazine is really good at providing French and English translations for the fashion image descriptions but only provides French text for the overall topic.  

I wish I hadn't quit French class in high school.  Our local community colleges do not offer French classes.   I have gotten very fast typing in French.  But I only know what the meaning of some French fashion terms that are common in English.   One day, I am going to be able to translate what I have been typing!   

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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My first thought was unashamed scam. My second was that they mean to publis=
h it, but I highly doubt they will. They are asking for investment, not try=
ing to sell magazines. Anyone who tells you there will be no refunds obviou=
sly means to use your money to try to get their venture started, and when, =
not if, it fails, there won't be any money to pay anyone back. I think they=
're trying to avoid lawsuits. =

Why not wait until they have something to show?
Carol Mitchell

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Chicagoland Co=
stumer's Guild=A0www.chicostume.org  Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.co=
m/group/costumemidwest/=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =


--- On Thu, 10/16/08, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.=
com> wrote:
From: h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com>
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 373
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 1:00 PM

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
	h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Have a question about a magazine (Onaree Berard)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:24:27 -0500
From: "Onaree Berard" <msberard@gmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Have a question about a magazine
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID:
	<ffe541fb0810151924x7f748e4uff4339b8079e457c@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3DISO-8859-1

I saw this magazine listed on Amazon.com --

Medieval History - England
http://www.amazon.com/Medieval-History-England/dp/B00007J7P2/ref=3Dsr_1_2?i=
e=3DUTF8&s=3Dmagazines&qid=3D1224123227&sr=3D1-2

Does anyone know anything about it. Is is any good or with purchasing?

Onaree
-- =

Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/


------------------------------

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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 373
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?
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> "Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags"
>
> What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google "jour des Drags" images come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.
>

"La Tribune des Dames" could be a newspaper, but most likely... it
also means a place to sit/stand, reserved for women. For example in
the House of Commons, there was a place reserved for women who wanted
to attend. I'm sure the same term could also be used to describe a
stand space reserved for women who want to view a race, for example.

As for the "Jour des Drags"... Drag is not a French word, so this
makes matters slightly more complicated. However, it seems like all I
can find agrees with you: horse races.

Wikipedia: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prix_des_Drags

Take a look here...
http://www.lartigue.org/fr2/jhlartigue/chronologie/jhlp-chronoimg40.html

So, in the women's reserved stand, on the day of the Prix des Drags
horse-race (in Auteuil)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Like the ladies at Ascot.

________________________________________
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin [audreybmorin@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 3:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP: What event is this worn to?

> "Dans la Tribune des Dames le jour des Drags"
>
> What event was these hats worn?  If I put in Google "jour des Drags" images come up like equestrian events.  Was/Is there an equestrian event called Tribune/ Day of the Drags?  I am just guessing...so the French speaking list members, go on...fall off your chair laughing at me.
>

"La Tribune des Dames" could be a newspaper, but most likely... it
also means a place to sit/stand, reserved for women. For example in
the House of Commons, there was a place reserved for women who wanted
to attend. I'm sure the same term could also be used to describe a
stand space reserved for women who want to view a race, for example.

As for the "Jour des Drags"... Drag is not a French word, so this
makes matters slightly more complicated. However, it seems like all I
can find agrees with you: horse races.

Wikipedia: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prix_des_Drags

Take a look here...
http://www.lartigue.org/fr2/jhlartigue/chronologie/jhlp-chronoimg40.html

So, in the women's reserved stand, on the day of the Prix des Drags
horse-race (in Auteuil)
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Hi guys...I sent this to another group in hopes of having a discussion on it, but haven't heard a peep from anyone there....so sorry for the cross posts....

From: wickedfrau@msn.com
To: therenaissancetailor@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume Journal Vol 42...
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:52:25 -0700

Hi all, I was just reading the article in The Journal of the Costume Society, Vol 42, 2008.  I am hoping to generate some discussion but also hoping to hear from the authors...Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila.

My first question is from Figure 6 on page 27.  I just want to confirm what I think I see.  I think the wearer is wearing in this (order) a smock, then a kirtle (no stiffening?) then a partially boned pair of bodies which looks like an 'un-strapped' version of the Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina Von Neuberg's  corset which is cut off  (just at?) the nipple. 

My second question, is how does one differentiate between a petticoat and a kirtle, (assuming both have attached bodices).  Is it just that the kirtle is 'done' in a fashion fabric?  

Thanks!

Sg


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	Journal Vol 42...
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I'd say most of us do not have the journal in our hands, much as I'd like
to.

You may also want to post your question here
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/group.php?gid=29374273995

We have a lot of members but most of the discussions are attached to the
posted photos.

MaggiRos

On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 10:41 AM, Chiara Francesca <
chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:

> Unfortunately for some of us we do not have that journal in our hands. Is
> there any way to share the images she refers to?
>
>
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Hi Saragrace,

I have yet to order my copy of the journal, sadly. I've had too much on my plate lately.

Have you tried this email group? Tudor_Tailor_Reader@yahoogroups.com
I know Ninya is specifically on that list, and often responds to direct queries. Or have you emailed Ninya or Jane directly? Their contact emails should be on The Tudor Tailor web site.

Personally, I would love to know the specific answer to your question as well. I just don't have the visual to look at to help answer it from what I have learned. Especially as my understanding of the term "petticoat" for the early 16th century is different than most people's definition. The Cunnington's in their book state that it originally meant "small coat", and later came to mean a skirt by itself, but they don't provide any visuals to help with that definition. 

At a guess, based on the info in The Tudor Tailor book and from the workshop of theirs I attended, their petticoat is a skirt, usually red (which seems to be common for "health" beliefs of that time), that has a small upper body garment attached to it (meant to keep the skirts in place? They talked about how it was described in written accounts as having bodies attached, but how that is shaped exactly is conjecture - they based it on a known shape at the time, seen in men's "jacket" bodies). This is then worn under the main supportive dress known as a kirtle (which in their instructions is partly boned), which then has the gown layer worn over that. This is what I understand, but without knowing your specific image, I don't know if I am in the right area, or if you are discussing something else.

Kimiko


--- On Sun, 10/19/08, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> Hi all, I was just reading the article in The Journal of
> the Costume Society, Vol 42, 2008.  I am hoping to generate
> some discussion but also hoping to hear from the
> authors...Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya
> Mikhaila.


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:42:08 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume
	JournalVol 42...
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Saragrace,

	I had the same problem while reading the article.  I finally had to go to
page 26 where there is a cutaway version of the entire bodice ensemble and
actually number them from the text. I think the biggest problem comes from
the fact that the innermost garment in period seems to have so many names
and so many people fighting for their particular nomenclature :-)

	Here is what I got:
	1.  Bottom layer next to skin:  Smock (Chemise, shirt, whatever you want to
call it. Personally I wish we would agree on a name and WE  stick with it
through the ages using that word as the definition for whenever an original
source uses something else.)
	2.  The petticote (kirtle... Driving me crazy with name changes here :-)  I
have no idea about the difference, or if there is one either.  Which was a
skirt and bodice (un-boned) together that provided necessary underskirt in
lieu of hoops
	3.  The kirtle (boned slightly but with at least 1.25 or more inches free
of boning at the neckline which appears higher than that of the Gown itself.
The claim here seems to be that the jeweled neckline was temporarily
mounted.
	4.  Then the gown - Unboned.

	I've spent the day looking through a lot of Tudor paintings books along
with masses of Elizabethan.  I'm not sure I agree entirely, but I'm planning
on continuing to learn until death.  I've decided I'm really just a costume
mutt.  My eyes glaze and I have this compulsion when "garb/costume/clothing"
is mentioned.  One reason why I like the depth and breadth of this list.

Lovely Volume.  I was interested in the Airsaid and particularly the 1617
suite of clothing.  I do wish that they had included the underclothing.  The
body seems to have mummified rather than decayed.  Oh well, now we know it
exists we can keep an eye out for more publication!

Regina Romsey



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 8:24 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume
> JournalVol 42...
>
> Hi all, I was just reading the article in The Journal of the
> Costume Society, Vol 42, 2008.  I am hoping to generate some
> discussion but also hoping to hear from the authors...Jane
> Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila.
>
> My first question is from Figure 6 on page 27.  I just want to
> confirm what I think I see.  I think the wearer is wearing in
> this (order) a smock, then a kirtle (no stiffening?) then a
> partially boned pair of bodies which looks like an 'un-strapped'
> version of the Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina Von Neuberg's  corset
> which is cut off  (just at?) the nipple.
>
> My second question, is how does one differentiate between a
> petticoat and a kirtle, (assuming both have attached bodices).
> Is it just that the kirtle is 'done' in a fashion fabric?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small
piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the
air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver
without harming the silk?
Sharon C.
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I'm wearing two hats here.

1. I've dabbled in silversmithing
2. I'm working on a degree in textiles.

One way to clean oxidization off of silver jewelry is to soak it in a  
solution called "pickle," usually a weak acid, usually heated.  Some  
people use vinegar.

Protein fibers are damaged by basic solutions, but are slightly  
strengthened by weak acids.  Vinegar is frequently used to set acid  
dyes (used with protein fibers), usually in a hot dyebath.

If you make a vinegar-water solution and heat it up, keeping it below  
a simmer, and immerse and soak your cloth of silver in it, that  
*should* do the trick.  It won't be instantaneous, it may take half an  
hour or more.

Emma

> On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small
> piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the
> air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver
> without harming the silk?
> Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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Baking soda? I've used baking soda paste (half baking soda, half water) to get tarnish off of silver jewelry. I don't know how silk reacts to baking soda, though.




----- Original Message ----
From: Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 6:33:22 PM
Subject: [h-cost] cleaning question

On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small
piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the
air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver
without harming the silk?
Sharon C.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming protein fibers. Aren't most
detergents/soaps basic? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 7:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning question


I'm wearing two hats here.

1. I've dabbled in silversmithing
2. I'm working on a degree in textiles.

One way to clean oxidization off of silver jewelry is to soak it in a
solution called "pickle," usually a weak acid, usually heated.  Some people
use vinegar.

Protein fibers are damaged by basic solutions, but are slightly strengthened
by weak acids.  Vinegar is frequently used to set acid dyes (used with
protein fibers), usually in a hot dyebath.

If you make a vinegar-water solution and heat it up, keeping it below a
simmer, and immerse and soak your cloth of silver in it, that
*should* do the trick.  It won't be instantaneous, it may take half an hour
or more.

Emma

> On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a 
> small piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was 
> exposed to the air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish 
> from the silver without harming the silk?
> Sharon C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yup.

But a mild base isn't going to do a huge amount of damage.  I wouldn't  
worry about it, honestly.  If your silk is so fragile that soap is  
going to break it down significantly, you probably shouldn't be  
washing it, anyway.

I have heard something about saris being given a final vinegar rinse  
to counteract the soap after being washed, it has never been clear to  
me whether that was to strengthen the fiber or to re-set the dye.

If you're feeling paranoid, tear-free shampoos tend to be neutral or  
nearly neutral pH.

Emma

Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming protein fibers. Aren't most
> detergents/soaps basic?


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This, by the way, is why you should never, never bleach silk.  A small  
vial of bleach is a handy way to distinguish silk from synthetic  
fibers, though.  Silk (or wool) will dissolve completely.

Emma

Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming protein fibers. Aren't most
> detergents/soaps basic?
>




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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Most soaps aren't terribly basic, not like a mineral base--NaOH (lye, caustic, etc.) or CaOH (active ingredient in Nair &c) around pH 14.

I have dry skin, and Ivory is too basic for me to use at pH 9.5, because it's not superfatted, but that's not a protein reaction. ;)

Detergents can be acidic or basic, depending on what is to be cleaned out of what.  

Both soaps & detergents are surfactants.

Ann in CT

--- On Wed, 10/22/08, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:

>> Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming protein
> fibers. Aren't most
> detergents/soaps basic? 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning question
> 
> 
> I'm wearing two hats here.
> 
> 1. I've dabbled in silversmithing
> 2. I'm working on a degree in textiles.
> 
> One way to clean oxidization off of silver jewelry is to
> soak it in a
> solution called "pickle," usually a weak acid,
> usually heated.  Some people
> use vinegar.
> 
> Protein fibers are damaged by basic solutions, but are
> slightly strengthened
> by weak acids.  Vinegar is frequently used to set acid dyes
> (used with
> protein fibers), usually in a hot dyebath.
> 
> If you make a vinegar-water solution and heat it up,
> keeping it below a
> simmer, and immerse and soak your cloth of silver in it,
> that
> *should* do the trick.  It won't be instantaneous, it
> may take half an hour
> or more.
> 
> Emma
> 
> > On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of
> silver. I have a 
> > small piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished
> where it was 
> > exposed to the air when folded. Any ideas on how to
> remove the tarnish 
> > from the silver without harming the silk?
> > Sharon C.


      
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Subject: [h-cost] Hat question 19th century
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Hi everyone, a friend is interested in the 'bonnet' on this page
http://www.hatsupply.com/dressup_hats.htm (about half way down black and
white photos) For Regency era wear to my eye it doesn't look like the right
shape, but I can't claim to be much of a Regency era expert and there was a
lot of variation between the 1790s and 1820s. What do you think?
Elizabeth

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I have not tried this on cloth of silver, but I have used it to 
clean other silver things--those "magic" silver cleaners are blocks of 
aluminum that you put in water with a 1:1 solution of baking soda and 
salt. It really does work, and then if you rinsed the cloth with a weak 
vinegar solution to restore the acid balance of the silk it should 
probably be ok without having to rub the cloth at all.

Jen

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008, Sharon Collier wrote:

> On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small
> piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the
> air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver
> without harming the silk?
> Sharon C.
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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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Do we need to know this? Do we need to know this 3 times?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of mmbennett@esta.org
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:55 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office

I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176.


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It's an automatic message. Answering it isn't going to solve the problem...

On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 2:10 PM, Rickard, Patty <RICKARPA@muc.edu> wrote:
> Do we need to know this? Do we need to know this 3 times?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of mmbennett@esta.org
> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:55 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office
>
> I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Some very interesting programmes - some from 1957 - using original 
costume from late 17 hundreds through the 18 hundreds

http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/whatwewore/index.shtml?option=1

Jill


JiGraH Resources -  www.jigrah.co.uk
Suppliers of products and services for Family and Local Historians Worldwide
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Ah, but this should be a point to remember for the rest of us.  Do not have
automated messages for lists we subscribe to.

On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 11:35 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin <
audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:

> It's an automatic message. Answering it isn't going to solve the problem...
>
> On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 2:10 PM, Rickard, Patty <RICKARPA@muc.edu> wrote:
> > Do we need to know this? Do we need to know this 3 times?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of mmbennett@esta.org
> > Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:55 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office
> >
> > I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through
> October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me
> about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane?
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I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
"Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've purchased "The
Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".

Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
when building a corset?

Onaree

-- 
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Amazon uses a technique called collaborative filtering. They accumulate 
data on what people search for and buy, and then if someone else 
searches on or buys a given item, they recommend what other people 
"liked" from the database. For a new and "obscure" item, there is often 
only data from a handful of people. As each of those few people can have 
a wide variety of interests, recommendations related to new items can be 
pretty strange.

Also, Amazon does sell advertising that looks like the results of their 
collaborative filtering. For example, after Princess Diana was killed 
some publisher rushed out a pop biography/fan picture book only a few 
weeks later.  For several days, no matter what I searched for, that book 
appeared at the top of my "recommended" items.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Onaree Berard wrote:
> I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
> "Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've purchased "The
> Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
> suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".
> 
> Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
> when building a corset?
> 
> Onaree
> 
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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aw c'mon!!1 doesn't everybody have a craving for a Terry Pratchet yarn whil=
e making corsets or other=A0 underhardware?

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance =


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7HMtOoXtMs0


Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Onaree Berard wrote:
> I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
> "Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've
purchased "The
> Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
> suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".
> =

> Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
> when building a corset?
> =

> Onaree
> =

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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



      =

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On Thursday 23 October 2008 10:36:54 pm Bambi TBNL wrote:
> aw c'mon!!1 doesn't everybody have a craving for a Terry Pratchet yarn
> while making corsets or other=A0 underhardware?

A lot of Terry Pratchett fans are also avid costumers.  =


I should know.  I am one.  =


So the association here is not as crazy as it may seem to some of the list =

members here.  Fran's right about the way Amazon does its filtering.  Some =
of =

the time it comes up with crazy recommendations or recommendations that are =

just plain bogus, but most of the time it's on the money.  =


If this sort of thing bothers you, just invest a little time to click the "=
not =

interested" box for such items from time to time.  At first it may seem lik=
e =

an exercise in futility, but if you do it often enough, it helps.


-- =

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand."
--Randy Pausch =


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  Maybe it's all the costumers buying books and Terry Pratchett stuff as
well? <G>

  Of course, either Death or Albert in a corset would be quite a sight....

Liadain
Drifting away on flights of fancy

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Onaree Berard
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 6:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane?

I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
"Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've purchased "The
Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".

Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
when building a corset?

Onaree

-- 
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Would Death's corset need boning, do you think?

Liadain
Ducking and running

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 "You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands =

http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bambi TBNL
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 7:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane?

aw c'mon!!1 doesn't everybody have a craving for a Terry Pratchet yarn while
making corsets or other=A0 underhardware?

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance =



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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:23:11 -0400
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Thank you for answering, anyway

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 2:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office

It's an automatic message. Answering it isn't going to solve the problem...

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Might be a glitch in their selections. Maybe someone in the Hogfather
wears a corset or someone that ordered "BoCB" also ordered the
Hogfather!  Who knows?

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Onaree Berard
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 8:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane?

I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
"Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've purchased "The
Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".

Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
when building a corset?

Onaree

-- 
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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With the range of interests that I have I always wonder what people
think of the recommendations they are getting from me, but the
connection that I get sometimes have me wondering...

Of course, it's interesting to note when something gets popular too.
Such as a particular painting book that I bought years ago that had
dropped off the recommendation list has shown up recently with a lot
of hits for other things recently.

alex

On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 9:26 AM, Abel, Cynthia
<CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:
> Might be a glitch in their selections. Maybe someone in the Hogfather
> wears a corset or someone that ordered "BoCB" also ordered the
> Hogfather!  Who knows?
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>> I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their
> "Recommended for You" and they suggested as as I've purchased "The
> Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners" that they
> suggested the DVD "The Hogfather".
>
> Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind
> when building a corset?
>
> Onaree
>--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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Yep - can't you temporarily turn the list off, then turn it back on  again???
 
As in, cancel the e-mails, then set them up again...
 
 
 
In a message dated 24/10/2008 15:53:50 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Ah, but  this should be a point to remember for the rest of us.  Do not  have
automated messages for lists we subscribe to.


 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office
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Yes, that's the only way to avoid the constant 'out of office' emails. You 
need to set your email subscriptions to 'no mail' if you are getting your 
email at your office address.

Fortunately, this particular office seems to have a program that only 
responds once a day per address (or something) rather than responding to 
every single message received -- as happens on another list I read.  ugh.

>
> Yep - can't you temporarily turn the list off, then turn it back on 
> again???
>
> As in, cancel the e-mails, then set them up again...
>
 ---------
>
> Ah, but  this should be a point to remember for the rest of us.  Do not 
> have
> automated messages for lists we subscribe to.

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From: "Margo" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:35:51 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office
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If you are using Microsoft Outlook, you can choose to send the out of office
only once per incoming email address.  This would be a big help. . .

Margo

"Don't forget your bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert/Brave Combo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Karolee Smiley
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 5:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office

Ah, but this should be a point to remember for the rest of us.  Do not have
automated messages for lists we subscribe to.

On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 11:35 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin <
audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:

> It's an automatic message. Answering it isn't going to solve the
problem...
>
> On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 2:10 PM, Rickard, Patty <RICKARPA@muc.edu> wrote:
> > Do we need to know this? Do we need to know this 3 times?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of mmbennett@esta.org
> > Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:55 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of Office
> >
> > I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through
> October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach
me
> about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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At 13:02 25/10/2008, you wrote:
>Dear H-Costume, I have been doing research on my =

>favourite film 'The Slipper and the Rose'.=C2  The =

>lady who designed the dresses for the ball gown =

>in 'The Slipper and the Rose' is an award =

>winning costume designer and=C2 I have been trying =

>to look for her work she did for the film and =

>finding the dressses she designed. I was =

>wondering if you would have more information on =

>this. =

>Sarah =

>_______________________________________________ =

>h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com =

>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

A large number of the ladies' costumes were made =

by Jean Hunnisett  for Julie Head. These include =

those for Margaret Lockwood, and for the =

Princesses who turned up to be prospective =

brides. The costumes for Richard Chamberlain were made by Charles Alty.

Suzi =


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose
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At 14:36 25/10/2008, you wrote:
>Thank you, may I ask how you found that out? =

>sarah ________________________________ From: =

>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> To: =

>Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com> Sent: =

>Saturday, 25 October, 2008 14:20:50 Subject: Re: =

>[h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose At 13:02 =

>25/10/2008, you wrote: >Dear H-Costume, I have =

>been doing research on my >favourite film 'The =

>Slipper and the Rose'.=C3=82=C2  The >lady who =

>designed the dresses for the ball gown >in 'The =

>Slipper and the Rose' is an award >winning =

>costume designer and=C3=82 I have been trying >to =

>look for her work she did for the film =

>and >finding the dressses she designed. I =

>was >wondering if you would have more =

>information =

>on >this. >Sarah >_______________________________ =

>________________ >h-costume mailing list =

>h-costume@mail.indra.com >http://mail.indra.com/m =

>ailman/listinfo/h-costume A large number of the =

>ladies' costumes were made by Jean =

>Hunnisett=C2  for Julie Head. These include those =

>for Margaret Lockwood, and for the Princesses =

>who turned up to be prospective brides. The =

>costumes for Richard Chamberlain were made by =

>Charles Alty. Suzi _______________________________________________ h-

I am very old, and knew Jean Hunnisett and =

Charles Alty. Jean was my Tutor at college, and I =

worked with Charles on a show in London's West End.

Suzi =


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose
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At 14:52 25/10/2008, you wrote:
>So, will I be able to find the actual ctostumes =

>from the film=C2 with the names you have provided =

>me? sarah ________________________________ From: =

>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> To: =

>Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com> Sent: =

>Saturday, 25 October, 2008 14:46:05 Subject: Re: =

>[h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose At 14:36 =

>25/10/2008, you wrote: >Thank you, may I ask how =

>you found that out? >sarah =

>________________________________ From: >Suzi =

>Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> To: >Historical =

>Costume <h-costume@indra.com> Sent: >Saturday, =

>25 October, 2008 14:20:50 Subject: Re: >[h-cost] =

>The Slipper and the Rose At 13:02 >25/10/2008, =

>you wrote: >Dear H-Costume, I have >been doing =

>research on my >favourite film 'The >Slipper and =

>the Rose'.=C3=83=82=C3=82=C2  The >lady who >designed the =

>dressses for the ball gown >in 'The >Slipper and =

>the Rose' is an award >winning >costume designer =

>and=C3=83=82 I have beenn trying >to >look for her =

>work she did for the film >and >finding the =

>dressses she designed. I >was >wondering if you =

>would have =

>more >information >on >this. >Sarah >____________ =

>___________________ >________________ >h-costume =

>mailing =

>list >h-costume@mail.indra.com >http://mail.indra =

>.com/m >ailman/listinfo/h-costume A large number =

>of the >ladies' costumes were made by =

>Jean >Hunnisett=C3=82=C2  for Julie Head. These =

>include those >for Margaret Lockwood, and for =

>the Princesses >who turned up to be prospective =

>brides. The >costumes for Richard Chamberlain =

>were made by >Charles Alty. Suzi =

>_______________________________________________ =

>h- I am very old, and knew Jean Hunnisett and =

>Charles Alty. Jean was my Tutor at college, and =

>I worked with Charles on a show in London's West =

>End. Suzi =

>_______________________________________________ =

>h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com =

>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Sarah

There is no point in looking them up on the =

Internet, as there is virtually no information, =

and no pictures that I can find of the costumes. =

I can't find anything, anyway. Good luck with your search.

Suzi



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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Nyah, Suzi, you're perfect.
--cin


Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose
I am very old, and knew Jean Hunnisett and
Charles Alty. Jean was my Tutor at college, and I
worked with Charles on a show in London's West End.

Suzi
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Though I have not seen the movie, I did find on the web that says the scene
with her on a swing was pretty much taken from this painting, even the
costume.
"The Swing" by Jean-Honore Fragonard
http://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/cas/his/CoreArt/art/anc_frag_swing.html

De


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This has a few pictures that might help a wee bit.
http://www.flixster.com/movie/the-slipper-and-the-rose
scroll down

-----Original Message-----
At 14:52 25/10/2008, you wrote:
>So, will I be able to find the actual ctostumes
>from the film=C2 with the names you have provided
>me? sarah ________________________________ From:
>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> To:
>Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com> Sent:
>Saturday, 25 October, 2008 14:46:05 Subject: Re:
>[h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose At 14:36
>25/10/2008, you wrote: >Thank you, may I ask how
>you found that out? >sarah
>________________________________ From: >Suzi
>Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> To: >Historical
>Costume <h-costume@indra.com> Sent: >Saturday,
>25 October, 2008 14:20:50 Subject: Re: >[h-cost]
>The Slipper and the Rose At 13:02 >25/10/2008,
>you wrote: >Dear H-Costume, I have >been doing
>research on my >favourite film 'The >Slipper and
>the Rose'.=C3=83=82=C3=82=C2  The >lady who >designed the
>dressses for the ball gown >in 'The >Slipper and
>the Rose' is an award >winning >costume designer
>and=C3=83=82 I have beenn trying >to >look for her
>work she did for the film >and >finding the
>dressses she designed. I >was >wondering if you
>would have
>more >information >on >this. >Sarah >____________
>___________________ >________________ >h-costume
>mailing
>list >h-costume@mail.indra.com >http://mail.indra
>.com/m >ailman/listinfo/h-costume A large number
>of the >ladies' costumes were made by
>Jean >Hunnisett=C3=82=C2  for Julie Head. These
>include those >for Margaret Lockwood, and for
>the Princesses >who turned up to be prospective
>brides. The >costumes for Richard Chamberlain
>were made by >Charles Alty. Suzi
>_______________________________________________
>h- I am very old, and knew Jean Hunnisett and
>Charles Alty. Jean was my Tutor at college, and
>I worked with Charles on a show in London's West
>End. Suzi
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Sarah

There is no point in looking them up on the
Internet, as there is virtually no information,
and no pictures that I can find of the costumes.
I can't find anything, anyway. Good luck with your search.

Suzi



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:48:52 +0000 (GMT)
From: Sarah Wilson <katherinewilsonlapaumiere@yahoo.co.uk>
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This page is interesting, thank you
sarah




________________________________
From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, 26 October, 2008 6:58:55
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose

Though I have not seen the movie, I did find on the web that says the scene
with her on a swing was pretty much taken from this painting, even the
costume.
"The Swing" by Jean-Honore Fragonard
http://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/cas/his/CoreArt/art/anc_frag_swing.html

De


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Subject: [h-cost] Underwear & Review of Arnold vol 4
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here is an interesting article about the meaning of displaying glimpses 
of underwear in different periods, with a few good illustrations

if you persevere, you will find a review of the latest Janet Arnold 
"Patterns of Fashion" book, which is just being published

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm

Enjoy!
Linda Walton
High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC Archive
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Gah! 'not available in your area' I kind of understand why they would place
restrictions on new content for people outside the UK (especially if they
are likely to be able to sell it) but something that is 50 years old and of
very limited interest to anyone other than costumers just seems ridiculous.
Elizabeth
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jill Hadfield
Sent: Friday, 24 October 2008 7:08 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] BBC Archive


Some very interesting programmes - some from 1957 - using original costume
from late 17 hundreds through the 18 hundreds

http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/whatwewore/index.shtml?option=1

Jill


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Linda Walton wrote:
> if you persevere, you will find a review of the latest Janet Arnold 
> "Patterns of Fashion" book, which is just being published
>
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm

Thank you!

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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Amazon UK has it on sale for 15 pounds:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-construction-neckwear-accessories/d
p/0333570820 
An added bonus is if the book is further reduced before publication, you pay
the lowest price.

I hope Amazon UK is prepared for the H-Cost influx. 

I've ordered mine!!!

Glenda.





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This is not a historical pattern, but a general pattern question. I have a McCalls pattern in progress, and I've* misplaced 2 of the 3 instruction sheets.  Do any of you know if there is a replacement service for stuff like this, or will I have to buy a whole new pattern? I looked around on the ordering and customer service portions of their web site and didn't see anything.

I can sew just about anything with instructions and simple stuff without, but I'm not confident about doing w/o instructions on a moderately complex coat with a lining. (M5717, if anyone is interested). This is the coat for which I was seeking plaid fabric earlier this year. 

Denise B
Iowa

*technically, it was my teen daughter who misplaced them while "cleaning", but the result is the same ;-)
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:09:05 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is it a current pattern?   If so, they were on sale for .99 up through 
yesterday at Joanns.   I would check if you have a Hancocks nearby and 
see if they might be on sale there.
Sylvia

On Oct 26, 2008, at 8:48 AM, Land of Oz wrote:

> This is not a historical pattern, but a general pattern question. I 
> have a McCalls pattern in progress, and I've* misplaced 2 of the 3 
> instruction sheets.  Do any of you know if there is a replacement 
> service for stuff like this, or will I have to buy a whole new 
> pattern? I looked around on the ordering and customer service portions 
> of their web site and didn't see anything.
>
> I can sew just about anything with instructions and simple stuff 
> without, but I'm not confident about doing w/o instructions on a 
> moderately complex coat with a lining. (M5717, if anyone is 
> interested). This is the coat for which I was seeking plaid fabric 
> earlier this year.
>
> Denise B
> Iowa
>
> *technically, it was my teen daughter who misplaced them while 
> "cleaning", but the result is the same ;-)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Glenda Robinson wrote:
> Amazon UK has it on sale for 15 pounds:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-construction-neckwear-accessories/d
> p/0333570820 
> An added bonus is if the book is further reduced before publication, you pay
> the lowest price.
>
> I hope Amazon UK is prepared for the H-Cost influx. 
>
> I've ordered mine!!!

Same here.  I ended up saving about $15 over the Canadian price, even 
including the overseas shipping.

Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear & Review of Arnold vol 4
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I believe there's a number of librarians on this list, like myself.

Did anyone else note the first image of the be-spectacled models clutching red books matching their scarlet bras? Naughty librarians!

Note to self - must buy red bra. 
Second note to self - don't forget to button up shirt before going to work, though. 

Sheridan Alder


________________________________

> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm

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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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> This is a really cute coat!
>

I think so too -- making it for my 14 yo daughter in a mostly black plaid. 
Since we don't have enough fabric, the lapels and pocket flaps are plain 
black wool, same as the lining. She wanted it without either the bottom 
ruffle, or the sleeve ruffles, so it's a hybrid of the views shown.

As a winter coat, it will need some insulation in-between the fabric and the 
lining. Any suggestions? I was thinking the old-fashioned all-cotton quilt 
batting, sandwiched between some gauze would work, but since I'm posting OT 
here anyway, I thought I'd ask for suggestions of something better. Better 
as in: warmer and already faced with something.

Denise B
Iowa 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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I suppose it makes a change from the stereotypes of those in the Nursing
profession.

Glenda


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I would definitely need more insulation than even a flannel backed 
lining satin - Thinsulate is my fave.  Here's one link:

http://www.seattlefabrics.com/insulations.html

HTH,
Sandy


At 02:18 PM 10/26/2008, you wrote:

>>This is a really cute coat!
>
>I think so too -- making it for my 14 yo daughter in a mostly black 
>plaid. Since we don't have enough fabric, the lapels and pocket 
>flaps are plain black wool, same as the lining. She wanted it 
>without either the bottom ruffle, or the sleeve ruffles, so it's a 
>hybrid of the views shown.
>
>As a winter coat, it will need some insulation in-between the fabric 
>and the lining. Any suggestions? I was thinking the old-fashioned 
>all-cotton quilt batting, sandwiched between some gauze would work, 
>but since I'm posting OT here anyway, I thought I'd ask for 
>suggestions of something better. Better as in: warmer and already 
>faced with something.
>
>Denise B
>Iowa
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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Linda Walton wrote:

>here is an interesting article about the meaning of displaying glimpses
>of underwear in different periods, with a few good illustrations

>if you persevere, you will find a review of the latest Janet Arnold
>"Patterns of Fashion" book, which is just being published

>http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm

Excellent, thanks, Linda!

We used to say "Charlie's dead" when I was at school in the late 50s-60s, but I've not heard the phrase mentioned since.

My comment on the recent "Tudors" TV series was that the women show too much hair and not enough linen. None of the leading ladies looks as though she is wearing a smock under her gown.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby

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I will be out of the office at the LDI show from October 21st through October 27th. I will be checking email periodically. If you need to reach me about the exams at LDI please call my cell phone at 646-732-0176. 


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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th century purse frames
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A whle back someone posted a link to a source for purse frames that are
15-16th century instead of the Victorian and later stuff we usually see.
Unfortunately I seem to have lost the link and now, of course, someone needs
it. Can anyone help? I think Bjarne may have fouind it initially.

Thanks

MaggiRos

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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Subject: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!
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Wahooo!
Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today <G>
And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American <G>
Happy Happy happy!!!!
TA
Carol--now to await the mails...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!
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Quoting cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net>:

> Wahooo!
> Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today <G>
> And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American <G>
> Happy Happy happy!!!!
> TA
> Carol--now to await the mails...

crosses fingers.  I"ve not gotten that notification yet ... but I"m hoping!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Well, it is $49.95 at Amazon.com, and wait is 2-4 wks, so don't know if
I'll get it soon if at all, but ordered it anyway.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of cahuff
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 5:03 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!

Wahooo!
Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today <G>
And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American <G>
Happy Happy happy!!!!
TA
Carol--now to await the mails...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: Fabric Advice
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Not historic in nature, but can anyone advise other than my suggestion of a vinegar/water spray and brushing with a clean clothes brush?

Thank you

Sarah Paterson/Bess Darnley

----- Original Message ----- 
 
I need your advice, please.  Carole-Ann has an expensive 100% light wool suit that is shiny from too much dry cleaning.  What corrective action, if any, can be taken?

 

Love,

 

Mom

 
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Bess, I don't know why I didn't realize you were on this list.

I think a vinegar/water spray and brushing are a good start; it seems  
likely that the problem is over-pressing, rather than the actual  
cleaning process, which means the fibers are flattened and polished.  
The brush would raise a little bit of a nap and cut down on reflection.

If it were just the wool layer, and mine, I'd consider immersing it in  
lukewarm water to let the fibers relax to something like their  
original state.  I don't think that's a good idea with a finished  
suit, though.  (I don't know what water-soluble sizings might be in  
the interfacings)

Emma/Jane

Quoting SPaterson <sjpaterson@eastlink.ca>:

> Not historic in nature, but can anyone advise other than my   
> suggestion of a vinegar/water spray and brushing with a clean   
> clothes brush?
>
> Thank you
>
> Sarah Paterson/Bess Darnley
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I need your advice, please.  Carole-Ann has an expensive 100% light   
> wool suit that is shiny from too much dry cleaning.  What corrective  
>  action, if any, can be taken?
>
>
>
> Love,
>
>
>
> Mom
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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> Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today <G>
> And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American <G>
> Happy Happy happy!!!!
> TA-

I got my hands on it and read it last nite.  Then I started making the
1590 Dutch rebato.  Fun!

Also, does anyone remember the contact info for the more scholarly
historical costume list that formed oh maybe a year back?
-cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Thank you, Jane ! :)

Hugs
Bess
----- Original Message ----- 

> Bess, I don't know why I didn't realize you were on this list.
> 
> I think a vinegar/water spray and brushing are a good start; it seems  
> likely that the problem is over-pressing, rather than the actual  
> cleaning process, which means the fibers are flattened and polished.  
> The brush would raise a little bit of a nap and cut down on reflection.
> 
> If it were just the wool layer, and mine, I'd consider immersing it in  
> lukewarm water to let the fibers relax to something like their  
> original state.  I don't think that's a good idea with a finished  
> suit, though.  (I don't know what water-soluble sizings might be in  
> the interfacings)
> 
> Emma/Jane
> 
> Quoting SPaterson <sjpaterson@eastlink.ca>:
> 
>> Not historic in nature, but can anyone advise other than my   
>> suggestion of a vinegar/water spray and brushing with a clean   
>> clothes brush?
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> Sarah Paterson/Bess Darnley
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> I need your advice, please.  Carole-Ann has an expensive 100% light   
>> wool suit that is shiny from too much dry cleaning.  What corrective  
>>  action, if any, can be taken?
>>
>>
>>
>> Love,
>>
>>
>>
>> Mom
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book is confirmed!!!
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At 15:18 31/10/2008, you wrote:
>I just got my email from Amazon that my book is =

>on its way!! Greetings from Amazon.co.uk, We =

>thought you would like to know that the =

>following item has been sent to: ---- using =

>Royal Mail. Patterns of Fashion 4: =

>The...   =C2=A315.00      Happy Happy!! =E2=99=AB Chiara =

>Francesca =

>_______________________________________________ =

>h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com =

>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Finally mine is on its way too - what do you bet =

it arrives after we leave for Florence?

Suzi =


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Subject: [h-cost] New books
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The following two books have been released and are now shipping from 
Amazon-UK. (My copies are on the way...)

The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe Asia Africa The 
Americas: Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi Et Moderni by Ann Jones, 
Margaret F. Rosenthal
Hardcover: 560 pages Thames & Hudson Ltd (27 Oct 2008) ISBN-10: 
0500514267 ISBN-13: 978-0500514269

Patterns of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and  construction of 
linen  shirts, smocks, neckwear,
headwear & accessories for men and women c.1540-1660. Macmillan (7 
Nov 2008) Paperback:
128 pages ISBN-10: 0333570820 ISBN-13: 978-0333570821

Sometime back, this list discussed this new edition of Vecellio and 
it has been much anticipated.

Beth 

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 From Beth Matney:

I am building a "wish list" of books from France =

for my reference collection. I already have some =

titles (other than those listed below... either =

in French or translation) and would appreciate =

comments on the following (and suggestions of others). Thanks.

Pinasa, Delphine. Costumes. Modes et mani=E8res =

d'=EAtre, (tome 1). Patrimoine vivant. Paris: =

R.E.M.P.ART., 1992. ISBN:2904365133 9782904365133 OCLC:32681329
Paperback. 8vo-over 7=BE"-9=BE" tall. illustrated =

history of French medieval costume
Ce livre propose un aper=E7u de l'histoire du =

v=EAtement de l'antiquit=E9 grecque et romaine =

jusqu'au Moyen =C2ge fran=E7ais (XIVe si=E8cle). Cet =

expos=E9 sur l'=E9volution des =E9l=E9ments de =

l'habillement au gr=E9 des diff=E9rentes =

civilisations est un outil pr=E9cieux pour les =

lecteurs qui s'initient =E0 l'histoire du costume =

mais aussi pour ceux qui recherchent une =

documentation fiable et compl=E8te au sujet de ce patrimoine.

Aubry, Viviane. Costumes. Tome II, Sculptures de =

l'=E9ph=E9m=E8re, 1340-1670. Patrimoine vivant. Paris: =

REMPART, 1998. ISBN:2904365338 9782904365331 =

2220042561 9782220042565 OCLC:40751886
Du XIVe si=E8cle au XVIIe si=E8cle, s'est install=E9e =

une nouvelle perception du corps v=EAtu. Dans ce =

deuxi=E8me tome de l'histoire du costume, l'auteur =

retrace l'=E9volution de ces nouveaux codes vestimentaires

Becchia, Alain. La draperie en Normandie du XIIIe =

au XXe si=E8cle. Rouen: Publications de =

l'Universite de Rouen, 2004. ISBN:2877753638 9782877753630 OCLC:56750959
L'histoire de la Normandie est intimement li=E9e =E0 =

celle de la production de la draperie. Pendant =

plus de sept si=E8cles, du Moyen =C2ge jusqu'=E0 la =

fermeture en 1970 de l'entreprise Blin & Blin, la =

Normandie a =E9t=E9 le berceau de cette activit=E9 =

industrielle et artisanale, source d'emploi et de =

prosp=E9rit=E9. Le coton, la laine, voire le chanvre =

et le lin ont =E9t=E9 largement exploit=E9s par de =

nombreuses entreprises, dont les plus =E9minentes =

se situaient dans la ville d'Elbeuf. C'est =E0 =

cette tradition d=E9sormais r=E9volue que chercheurs =

et historiens, sp=E9cialistes de l'histoire =

r=E9gionale ont consacr=E9 une quinzaine d'=E9tudes. =

Ils analysent la production des diff=E9rents =

centres normands, les r=E9seaux de =

commercialisation et d'exportation, les =

m=E9canismes de transferts et de technologie. =

L'ouvrage se compose de trois parties : la =

premi=E8re retrace la draperie =E0 l'=E9poque =

m=E9di=E9vale, la seconde concerne les =E9changes et =

exportations, la troisi=E8me traite de l'apog=E9e et du d=E9clin de cette a=
ctivit=E9.

Beaune (France).  Dr=F4les de trames : Tapisseries =

m=E9di=E9vales et contemporaines. [Beaune]: Muse es =

de Beaune, 2002. ISBN:2850565946 9782850565946 OCLC:52471414
120 pp. With 104 ills. (101 col. ) and 41 reference ills. 28 x 26 cm.
La Ville de Beaune, qui abrite une importante =

collection de tapisseries m=E9di=E9vales (Tenture de =

la Vie de la Vierge et tapisseries de =

l'H=F4tel-Dieu), a par ailleurs jou=E9 un r=F4le de =

m=E9c=E8ne, encourageant ainsi la cr=E9ation lorsque =

cet art renaissait apr=E8s 1945. La confrontation =

entre tradition et modernit=E9 met en lumi=E8re =

continuit=E9s et diff=E9rences: une complicit=E9 se =

dessine entre les lissiers anonymes du XVe si=E8cle =

et les artistes r=E9novateurs, tels Jean Lur=E7at, =

Marcel Gromaire, Marc Saint-Sa=EBns, Mario =

Prassinos, Michel Tourli=E8re... L'art de la =

tapisserie est toujours bien vivant, comme le =

montrent les oeuvres contemporaines de Mario =

Botta, Diana Brennan, Ester Chacon-Avila, Bernard =

Fortin, Thomas Gleb, Josep Grau-Garriga, Fabrice =

Hybert, ou G=E9rard Michot. Magnificence des =

grandes commandes du Moyen =C2ge et force cr=E9atrice =

des artistes qui ont choisi ce moyen d'expression =

se r=E9pondent et offrent au lecteur une aventure =E9motionnelle haute en c=
ouleur.

Greimas, Algirdas Julien. Ancien fran=E7ais: [la =

langue du Moyen Age de 1080 =E0 1350]. Grand =

dictionnaire Larousse. Paris: Larousse, 2007. =

ISBN:9782035827074 2035827078 OCLC:254489605 23.6 =

x 15.6 x 4.2 cm Paperback: 672 pages
Cet ouvrage pr=E9sente le fran=E7ais en usage au =

Moyen Age de 1080 (date de cr=E9ation de la Chanson =

de Roland) =E0 1350. Chaque article regroupe les =

d=E9riv=E9s sous les entr=E9es principales et donne les =

diff=E9rents sens des mots et des locutions. Chaque =

mot est accompagn=E9 de son =E9tymologie, de la date =

de sa premi=E8re apparition dans un texte =E9crit et =

des r=E9f=E9rences de celui ci. Des citations =

extraites d'oeuvres et des exemples rendent =

compte des coutumes de l'=E9poque. Des notices =

claires et document=E9es pour comprendre facilement =

l'=E9volution de la langue par exemple que leu =

signifiait loup ce qui explique l'expression =E0 la =

queue leu leu que plain voulait dire plat d'o=F9 la =

graphie de plain pied ou que aveugle se disait et =

s'=E9crivait nonvoiant comme on le dit aujourd'hui.

Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. =

[Saint-Leger-Vauban]: Zodiaque, 1998. =

ISBN:2736902394 9782736902391 OCLC:39124464
261pp, 178 pls (most col)
L'auteur =E9voque un th=E8me essentiel au Moyen Age, =

puisque la femme y prend pour la premi=E8re fois =

une place majeure dans la culture et l'histoire : =

les reines marquent le pouvoir politique, les =

femmes pr=E9sident =E0 des activit=E9s qui leur avaient =

=E9t=E9 refus=E9es jusqu'alors. Dans l'art, la figure =

de la femme personnifie les vertus et les vices, la sagesse et l'=C9glise.

Russon, Marc. Les c=F4tes guerri=E8res: la mer, la =

guerre, les pouvoirs dans la France oceanique au =

Moyen Age. Rennes: Presses universitaires de =

Rennes, 2004. ISBN:2868479618 9782868479617 (pbk.) OCLC:56552819
1 volume/1. Broch=E9 coll=E9 . Format in-8=B0( 15,5 x24 =

cm )( 860 gr ). 520 pages . 7 chapitres : La =

fa=E7ade oc=E9anique du royaume de France au XIIIe =

si=E8cle, d=E9finitions et =E9tat des lieux - Le temps, =

l'espace et les formes du conflit - =

L'intervention du pouvoir politique: la =

fortification du littoral et des places maritimes =

- L'action des pouvoirs: d=E9fense des c=F4tes, guet =

de la mer et garnisons - D=E9fense au large et =

lutte contre l'ins=E9curit=E9 maritime: flottes et =

convois, police des ports et des mers - Lutte =

contre l'ins=E9curit=E9 et contr=F4le du monde =

maritime: justice et diplomatie - Dirigeants et =

id=E9es: les politiques maritimes et navales =E0 =

l'=E9preuve - Ex=E9cutants et autres acteurs: =

officiers et auxiliaires maritimes, pirates et =

corsaires - Sources et bibliographie; Cet ouvrage =

traite d=92un large pan profond=E9ment m=E9connu de =

l=92histoire m=E9di=E9vale maritime, celui des luttes =

opini=E2tres qui virent s=92affronter les =C9tats pour =

le contr=F4le de la voie oc=E9anique bordant le =

royaume de France. Les fracas des batailles =

navales, des si=E8ges et blocus de places fortes, =

des descentes de pillards sur les c=F4tes, presque =

incessant pendant la guerre de Cent Ans, =

s=92accompagnaient des ravages accomplis par des =

corsaires et des pirates. L=92=C9tat monarchique =

fran=E7ais prit progressivement conscience de =

l=92importance de l=92enjeu maritime et littoral et =

s=92engagea dans une conqu=EAte laborieuse, =

finalement victorieuse, de la fa=E7ade oc=E9anique.
Cet ouvrage =E9tudie toutes les formes de =

l'intervention des =C9tats pour contr=F4ler le =

littoral : fortifier la c=F4te, mener la guerre =

maritime, se garder des agresseurs et sp=E9cialement des pirates.

Rouyer, Jules, and Eugene Hucher. Histoire du =

jeton au moyen age. 1982. ISBN:2863770047 9782863770047 OCLC:251471703
1858, r=E9=E9d. 1982 (pr=E9face de M. Pastoureau), 186 p., 17 pl.

Pastoureau, Michel. Le V=EAtement: histoire, =

arch=E9ologie et symbolique vestimentaires au Moyen =

Age. Cahiers du Leopard d'or, 1. Paris: Leopard =

d'or, 1989.  ISBN:2863770896 9782863770894 OCLC:23694261
Paperback. Extensively illustrated in b/w. 332 =

pp. Covers every imaginable aspect of clothing in the Middle Ages.  =


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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> In a message dated 10/26/2008 3:18:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> landofoz@netins.net writes:
>
> As a  winter coat, it will need some insulation in-between the fabric and 
> the
>
> lining. Any suggestions?
> -------------------------------------------------------

: <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Flannel
>
> or if you can find it, line it with flannel backed  satin.
''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''

The coat is almost done, and I wish I had taken AlbertCat's suggestion. I 
bought something similar to thinsulate, as the LFS was out of thinsulate. I 
don't remember what she called it, but what I bought resembles a thick 
synthetic craft felt. Slightly less stiff and slightly more fluffy than 
craft felt.

Now that the coat is assembled, I think it's too thick. My daughter thinks 
it's wonderful and warm, so that's okay, I guess. Also, I never did find the 
direction pages 2 and 3, so the construction is probably a little 
unorthodox.  I assumed that since there were several separate pattern pieces 
for the lining that they would be cut slightly smaller. That does not appear 
to have been the case. Either that, or the thickness of the insulation is 
changing the lining's fit.  If I hadn't whip stitched the insulation pieces 
together over the lining seams (to make it lay flat) I think I would go back 
and add another 1/8 in to the lining seams. A few of them, at least, but 
undoing the hand stitching, re-sewing the seams, trimming the insulation and 
re-stitching just seems like a little too much work. ;-)

Well, thanks for all the advice! When the hem and buttons are done, I'll 
post a photo on flickr for anyone who wants to see it.

Denise B
Iowa 

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] scholarly historical costume list
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Status: RO

Oh, there's more?  Undoubtedly there are.  I'm looking for one that's
more prone to scholarly info rather than sewing & construction
questions and where to buy questions.  This list is great for that
info.  My personal preferences are for Renaissance, Napoleonic,
Regency, Victorian high fashions, advanced tailoring, but I'm willing
to skip over the parts I'm not interest in.  Several lists may end up
serving my various areas of interest & that's fine, too.  Happy to
take all suggestions.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

>>Also, does anyone remember the contact info for the more scholarly
>>historical costume list that formed oh maybe a year back?
-cin

>Are you talking about the one where we are discussing the conference about Arnold and other such conferences or a different one?
>Chiara Francesca
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Well, I can't tell you much about many of those, but I do have a few commen=
ts:

> Greimas, Algirdas Julien. Ancien fran=E7ais: [la langue du Moyen Age de 1=
080 =E0
> 1350]. Grand dictionnaire Larousse.

This is really an Old French dictionary. Meaning that, if you're
reading an old text and want to know what a word means, it might help
you. But it won't help you to find the way something was called in the
past, if you already know the modern word.

> Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:

I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.
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Cin wrote:
> Oh, there's more?  Undoubtedly there are.  I'm looking for one that's
> more prone to scholarly info rather than sewing & construction
> questions and where to buy questions.  

You might be thinking of the list for discussing and announcing sources that 
Beth Matney formed after our discussion at Kalamazoo this past spring:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-DISCUSS/

and the announcement-only version:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MEDTC-RESOURCES/

--Robin

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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:
> 
> I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
> specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.

(Catching up late)

I found this first in German, on a clearance rack somewhere in Europe, and 
bought it for the pictures. Then I found it in French, on a clearance rack in 
Paris, some years later, and bought it for the pictures as well as the text. I 
had not realized it was the same book, but I'm glad to have the French. (I 
don't read German!) I've already sold the German copy to a German-speaker. 
Lots of good images of artwork you don't find very often.

--Robin

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So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rather 
Gothy/Victorian dolly.

My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expecting 
- win! :0)

Sheridan P


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Yes, there are several that you may be interested in.

"MEDTC-DISCUSS" <MEDTC-DISCUSS@yahoogroups.com> (approval required... 
to keep the spammers away)
MEDTC-RESOURCES@yahoogroups.com (edited version of above.. newsletter 
only list.. cannot post directly)

I started these almost a year ago, but the majority of the posts have 
been mine, so it has been mostly posts of new book notices, journal 
articles of interest, conferences, etc. Quite a few have joined these 
lists, but traffic has been slow lately. Members are from the USA, 
UK, various Scandinavian countries and Germany, but unfortunately 
none from France, Italy or eastern Europe as yet.

and <Traveling4Costumers@yahoogroups.com>
Posts to this has currently been primarily about the Janet Arnold 
Conference and travel relating to Florence, Italy.

See the Yahoo webpages to find out more.

Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:54:21 -0700
>From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
>
>Oh, there's more?  Undoubtedly there are.  I'm looking for one that's
>more prone to scholarly info rather than sewing & construction
>questions and where to buy questions.  This list is great for that
>info.  My personal preferences are for Renaissance, Napoleonic,
>Regency, Victorian high fashions, advanced tailoring, but I'm willing
>to skip over the parts I'm not interest in.  Several lists may end up
>serving my various areas of interest & that's fine, too.  Happy to
>take all suggestions.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

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> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?


I am taking the girls to the Mall for a costume contest, and I am wearing my 
Empire gown with stays et al. My girls will be an angel and a fairy--very 
apropos. As I am a homeschooling, stay-at-home mom, that very much falls 
under the heading of work (as well as fun, of course)...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert 


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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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Since I work from home I didn't bother to dress up for myself, but Hubby went to teach at the High School in his Beekeeper suit. He waited too late to try on his garb and it needed more alteration than I could do in one night.

Ah, the rewards of procrastination - less work for me, more sweat for him. Those suits aren't made to breath!!

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--


--- On Fri, 10/31/08, Gilbert <twgilbert@fairpoint.net> wrote:

> From: Gilbert <twgilbert@fairpoint.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Friday, October 31, 2008, 3:13 PM
> > So who dressed up for work today and what are you
> wearing?
> 
> 
> I am taking the girls to the Mall for a costume contest,
> and I am wearing my 
> Empire gown with stays et al. My girls will be an angel and
> a fairy--very 
> apropos. As I am a homeschooling, stay-at-home mom, that
> very much falls 
> under the heading of work (as well as fun, of course)...
> 
> Marjorie
> 
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian
> England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade2@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
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I am working on a vampire dress.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/dress/Jurk.jpg
Ate pumpkin soup and carved a pumpkin and I am listening to the music of 
corpse bride.
The only one in costume is my little bunny backpack in her little witch 
dress with broomstick and pumpkin.

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I sort-of dressed up. I am intermittently wearing white bunny ears 
(intermittently because they're a little tight) and if anybody asks I am 
Harvey.

Jen

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:

> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
>
> I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rather 
> Gothy/Victorian dolly.
>
> My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expecting 
> - win! :0)
>
> Sheridan P
>
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Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:

> At 15:18 31/10/2008, you wrote:
>> I just got my email from Amazon that my book is on its way!!   =

>> Greetings from Amazon.co.uk, We thought you would like to know that  =

>>  the following item has been sent to: ---- using Royal Mail.   =

>> Patterns of Fashion 4: The...   =C2=A315.00      Happy Happy!! =E2=99=AB
>
> Finally mine is on its way too - what do you bet it arrives after we
> leave for Florence?

My trip ends in London with friends, so I'm having it sent there.  =

Woot! Free shipping within the UK!

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An 1890s walking suit with a sash that says "votes for women."  Yup, I'm a suffragette. Don't forget to vote next week!



Claudine
(with apologies for the brief, non-partisan political statement)

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I too grabbed random stuff from the closet-mixing and matching odd bits, wi=
g, headdress and some costume prop bits for=A0a nifty Satana.

Photo has=A0already been promised,=A0due to threatening promises=A0made loc=
ally.=A0 :P=A0 =


But judging by the stunned acclamations around the=A0work block, a keeper c=
ombination.

(Two clerks came running out for kudos and=A0questions no less)

=A0JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir =



      =

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My house is decorated as a spider-filled graveyard so I am dressed as spide=
r graveyard queen.  I have a bony crown and an all black outfit which inclu=
des short puff sleeve (cartridge pleated) jacket over black canvas Victoria=
n corset over skirt which is below knee a-line in front and floor length kn=
ife pleated in back and draped in black gauze swag.  Plus spider accessorie=
s.  Subtract the spider accessories and change the shoes and it looks kinda=
 steampunk.  I didn't have to go to work today so I'll be wearing it at hom=
e to scare kids and have people over for drinks and scary movies.

Kathy



> =

> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
> =

> I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rathe=
r =

> Gothy/Victorian dolly.
> =

> My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expect=
ing =

> - win! :0)
> =

> Sheridan P
> =

> =

> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the go=97take your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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I was mildly amused when I got my e-mail notice a day or two ago. Usually I buy things from Amazon USA (since that's where I live) and the notice says "Your Amazon order has shipped."

This notice (from Amazon UK) instead said that it had been "dispatched"!!

Wonder if that means it will arrive faster? <grin>

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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I'm another denizen of the spider filled graveyard with the spider
queen (see below)...  I'll be in a long white wig or the white
Jeffersonian wig, bowler hat & veilings, ragged hunter green tailcoat
with shredded lapels vintage 1900s, repro highwaisted 19th gents slate
blue-grey pants, repro silk vest in dark blue silk, vintage 19th c
gents shirt w starched bosom & cravat.  I love being able to just toss
on whatever's in the closet!  Even better is raiding the spouse's
closet!
Hope you get lots of candy!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
My house is decorated as a spider-filled graveyard so I am dressed as
spider graveyard queen.  I have a bony crown and an all black outfit
which includes short puff sleeve (cartridge pleated) jacket over black
canvas Victorian corset over skirt which is below knee a-line in front
and floor length knife pleated in back and draped in black gauze swag.
 Plus spider accessories.  Subtract the spider accessories and change
the shoes and it looks kinda steampunk.  I didn't have to go to work
today so I'll be wearing it at home to scare kids and have people over
for drinks and scary movies.

Kathy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book is confirmed!!!
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That is unfortunate, Jane, we will be in London, too but in March 2009; a visit with family, including my failing god father (also second cousin) beats out a Janet Arnold Conference. Look out V& A etc...

Bess

----- Original Message -----

> My trip ends in London with friends, so I'm having it sent there.  
> Woot! Free shipping within the UK!
>
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Mine shipped Tuesday and the extra one that I ordered for a surprise gift was shipped today. Hopefully it will make it to Texas while I'm still visiting her. :-)

Kate
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Oh, I like this one!  Most of my co-workers don't dress up.  They  
were sort of befuddled 2 years ago when I showed up with orange  
pumpkin bobbles on a headband....  This year I wore "happy face"  
socks and a "happy face" t-shirt with my jeans [the only time of year  
I wear jeans to work] and had my hair tied back with a "happy face"  
bandanna -- since I'm known as an old grump, I figured it would be a  
good disguise.  :-)

Suzanne

On Oct 31, 2008, at 5:58 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
> Date: October 31, 2008 2:46:11 PM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
>
> I sort-of dressed up. I am intermittently wearing white bunny ears  
> (intermittently because they're a little tight) and if anybody asks  
> I am Harvey.
>
> Jen
>
> On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:
>
>> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

<trimmed>
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Last year I went as a 'kinda 12th C English lady - 'Irish' dress with an angel wing 1970's  dress as the chemise, and a matching silk skirt.
(everyone asked if I was a princes or a queen)

This year I was dressed as an Eastern Mountain Man - black powder era - complete with wool frock coat, leather pants, sleeveless leather shirt, tan under shirt, inkle woven belt, boots and a black felt hat.
(everyone asked if I was an Indian)

I'm thinking of next year I'll wear my 1960's outfit so everyone can tell what I am  

Ha Rumph!

Katheryne

--------- Original Message -----------
At 10/31/08 01:59 PM, you wrote:
So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rather Gothy/Victorian dolly.

My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expecting - win! :0)

Sheridan P
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Thank you very much for the info.

Beth

At 05:58 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 14:14:04 -0400
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
>
>Well, I can't tell you much about many of those, but I do have a few comments:
>
> > Greimas, Algirdas Julien. Ancien fran?ais: [la langue du Moyen 
> Age de 1080 ?
> > 1350]. Grand dictionnaire Larousse.
>
>This is really an Old French dictionary. Meaning that, if you're
>reading an old text and want to know what a word means, it might help
>you. But it won't help you to find the way something was called in the
>past, if you already know the modern word.
>
> > Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:
>
>I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
>specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French titles - Medieval costume and textiles
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Thanks Robin,

Thanks, I'll look for the German edition. (I do a bit better with German)

Beth

At 05:58 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:46:15 -0500
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>
>
>Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>
> >> Pernoud, Regine. Visages de femmes au Moyen age. [Saint-Leger-Vauban]:
> >
> > I don't know what the book is worth, but she's a very good writer, a
> > specialist of the Middle Ages and also very prolific.
>
>(Catching up late)
>
>I found this first in German, on a clearance rack somewhere in Europe, and
>bought it for the pictures. Then I found it in French, on a clearance rack in
>Paris, some years later, and bought it for the pictures as well as 
>the text. I
>had not realized it was the same book, but I'm glad to have the French. (I
>don't read German!) I've already sold the German copy to a German-speaker.
>Lots of good images of artwork you don't find very often.
>
>--Robin

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Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> Thanks Robin,
> 
> Thanks, I'll look for the German edition. (I do a bit better with German)

Before you go, you might try pricing this and other items on your wishlist on 
abe or alibris. Anything you can get cheaper used (and shipped) will save you 
luggage space.

(This from a woman who went to England with one full bag packed inside a 
slightly larger empty one, and came back with two full ones.)

--Robin
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I wore hubby's  "It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown" Great 
Pumpkin.  This was our entry at Archon this year (St. Louis science 
fiction convention).  I only kept it on long enough for the contest, 
though, as I was sweating buckets in it.  I think they decided to 
turn the heat up in the building last night (and the temp hit 75 F 
today in Nebraska - go figure!)  Everyone seemed to like it, but I 
didn't win the contest.  Oh, well. :-(  When a pic is available from 
the convention, or I can get another one posted somewhere, I'll let you know.

Sandy

At 01:59 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:
>So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
>
>I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a 
>rather Gothy/Victorian dolly.
>
>My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was 
>expecting - win! :0)
>
>Sheridan P

"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda  

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