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Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
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My son's school had a Halloween carnival. I told the kids I was a 10 yr old
dressed as a mom. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 11:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] All Hallows

So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rather
Gothy/Victorian dolly.

My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expecting
- win! :0)

Sheridan P


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From: "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles
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You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much wider peri=
od it has a good mediaeval section. =

I bought myself a copy of "Rayures. une histoire et des tissus rayes" becau=
se the illustrations were excellent and struggled through enough of the Fre=
nch to get the basic idea.  I was then thrilled to find that a translation =
had been done "The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric" =
- much smaller book, far fewer illustrations and in black and white - I thi=
nk the complete text but my French is really not good enough to say for sur=
e.
The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des tissus rayes=
 by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil (1995). It is out o=
f print but Amazon has one copy available in the USA at =A315.26.
The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fa=
bric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought and Cultural Critic=
ism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press (2001).  Amazon has plenty=
 of copies starting from =A37.99.

Viv.
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Subject: [h-cost]  French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles
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Thanks. I have the English translation, but I was a bit unhappy with it.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 11/1/2008, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 10:40:01 -0000
>From: "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
>
>You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much 
>wider period it has a good mediaeval section.
>I bought myself a copy of "Rayures. une histoire et des tissus 
>rayes" because the illustrations were excellent and struggled 
>through enough of the French to get the basic idea.  I was then 
>thrilled to find that a translation had been done "The Devil's 
>Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric" - much smaller book, 
>far fewer illustrations and in black and white - I think the 
>complete text but my French is really not good enough to say for sure.
>The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des 
>tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil 
>(1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the 
>USA at ?15.26.
>The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and 
>Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought 
>and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press 
>(2001).  Amazon has plenty of copies starting from ?7.99.
>
>Viv.

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I went to work as a Goth! I used an old Gunne Saxe dress I don't remember 
how I got, it's been waiting in the costume closet for a good 10 years, I 
bought a decent-quality wig, lots of makeup... I was expecting comments such 
as "That's different", or "it really changes you"... what I got were "Wow, 
you're beautiful!". Maybe I should become a Goth for real ;-)

Last Saturday we had a party, where we had to dress as movie characters. We 
dressed as Shaun of the Dead. My bf was Shaun, and I was a zombie. Great fun 
there too! It's weird how it scares people when you were weird colour 
contact lenses.

You can see both here http://www.picasaweb.com/audreybmorin/Halloween2008/ 
(the last picture is of friends of ours, unrelated to my own costumes) 

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--- On Sat, 1/11/08, Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows - OT
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, 1 November, 2008, 7:46 PM

> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I went to work as a Goth! I used an old Gunne Saxe dress I don't remember
how I got, it's been waiting in the costume closet for a good 10 years, I
bought a decent-quality wig, lots of makeup... I was expecting comments such as
"That's different", or "it really changes you"... what I
got were "Wow, you're beautiful!". Maybe I should become a Goth
for real ;-)

Last Saturday we had a party, where we had to dress as movie characters. We
dressed as Shaun of the Dead. My bf was Shaun, and I was a zombie. Great fun
there too! It's weird how it scares people when you were weird colour
contact lenses.

You can see both here http://www.picasaweb.com/audreybmorin/Halloween2008/ (the
last picture is of friends of ours, unrelated to my own costumes) 
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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On Nov 1, 2008, at 3:40 AM, Viv Watkins wrote:

> You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much  =

> wider period it has a good mediaeval section.
> I bought myself a copy of "Rayures. une histoire et des tissus  =

> rayes" because the illustrations were excellent and struggled  =

> through enough of the French to get the basic idea.  I was then  =

> thrilled to find that a translation had been done "The Devil's  =

> Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric" - much smaller  =

> book, far fewer illustrations and in black and white - I think the  =

> complete text but my French is really not good enough to say for sure.
> The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des  =

> tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil  =

> (1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the  =

> USA at =A315.26.
> The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and  =

> Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought  =

> and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press  =

> (2001).  Amazon has plenty of copies starting from =A37.99.


Michel Pastoureau is a very entertaining writer, but tends to be a  =

bit.... how shall I say this.... flamboyant? about some of what he  =

says. I have a couple of his books, including _Blue: The History of a  =

Color_ and right at the very beginning it contains some passages that  =

appear to demonstrate that he either is not aware of, or is  =

deliberately ignoring, some of the significant research on the  =

cognitive history of color concepts (or so says the scholar who gave  =

it to me).
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Don't work, except at home.  But I went out to a party that night.  I 
was very happy with my Halloween costume.  Had most of the pieces but 
for the robe, which is a table cloth from a Thrift shop.  Sorry it's a 
big photo, but the design is in the details. I went a Samhin, Celtic God 
of Death, and yes, I know there was no such God in real life, but it was 
FUN!

http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Halloween200801.jpg

I also have to brag my wife made me a Fair Isle hat in black, gray and 
orange for my Birthday.  It's just great!  Here are some photos, she 
came up with the design herself.  I am so proud it her and it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2966418266/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2965570701/

Stephen Bergdahl

Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:
> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
>
> I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a 
> rather Gothy/Victorian dolly.
>
> My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was 
> expecting - win! :0)
>
> Sheridan P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Re-did the photo so it's not so huge.

http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Halloween200801.jpg

Stephen

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> Don't work, except at home.  But I went out to a party that night.  I 
> was very happy with my Halloween costume.  Had most of the pieces but 
> for the robe, which is a table cloth from a Thrift shop.  Sorry it's a 
> big photo, but the design is in the details. I went a Samhin, Celtic 
> God of Death, and yes, I know there was no such God in real life, but 
> it was FUN!
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Halloween200801.jpg
>
> I also have to brag my wife made me a Fair Isle hat in black, gray and 
> orange for my Birthday.  It's just great!  Here are some photos, she 
> came up with the design herself.  I am so proud it her and it.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2966418266/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2965570701/
>
> Stephen Bergdahl
>
> Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:
>> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
>>
>> I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a 
>> rather Gothy/Victorian dolly.
>>
>> My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was 
>> expecting - win! :0)
>>
>> Sheridan P
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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ONE MORE TIME.  I hate computers sometimes

http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Hallween%202008.html

Stephen

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> Re-did the photo so it's not so huge.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Halloween200801.jpg
>
> Stephen
>
> Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
>> Don't work, except at home.  But I went out to a party that night.  I 
>> was very happy with my Halloween costume.  Had most of the pieces but 
>> for the robe, which is a table cloth from a Thrift shop.  Sorry it's 
>> a big photo, but the design is in the details. I went a Samhin, 
>> Celtic God of Death, and yes, I know there was no such God in real 
>> life, but it was FUN!
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~madlystitching/TheVault/Halloween200801.jpg
>>
>> I also have to brag my wife made me a Fair Isle hat in black, gray 
>> and orange for my Birthday.  It's just great!  Here are some photos, 
>> she came up with the design herself.  I am so proud it her and it.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2966418266/
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelicdragonfly/2965570701/
>>
>> Stephen Bergdahl
>>
>> Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote:
>>> So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?
>>>
>>> I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a 
>>> rather Gothy/Victorian dolly.
>>>
>>> My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was 
>>> expecting - win! :0)
>>>
>>> Sheridan P
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:52:31 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Thanks Beth & Robin,
I guess those lists are what I was remembering. I'll give it a try.
Thanks so much for responding.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
I started these almost a year ago, but the majority of the posts have
been mine, so it has been mostly posts of new book notices, journal
articles of interest, conferences, etc. Quite a few have joined these
lists, but traffic has been slow lately. Members are from the USA,
UK, various Scandinavian countries and Germany, but unfortunately
none from France, Italy or eastern Europe as yet.

and <Traveling4Costumers@yahoogroups.com>
Posts to this has currently been primarily about the Janet Arnold
Conference and travel relating to Florence, Italy.

See the Yahoo webpages to find out more.

Beth Matney
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 12:43:29 -0500
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Technicians Handbook -- 2nd vs 3rd ed
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What's the difference(s) between the 2nd and the 3rd editions of the  
Costume Technicians Handbook? I know that there are *significant*  
differences between the 1st and the 2nd editions ....

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] MEDIEVAL ARCHEOLOGY
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In celebration of the Society for Medieval Archeology's 50th aniversary, the 
first 50 volumes of the journal "Medieval Archeology" have been placed 
online for free viewing at
http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/med_arch/
There is as list of them by years and I just clicked on 1984 at random to 
find a 30 page article on late Saxon textile finds in the City of London!

Janet


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Subject: [h-cost] New book on 1820s clothing, needlework, the toilet,
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After seven years of work, our new title The Lady's Stratagem: A 
Repository of 1820s Instructions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, 
Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette is now available. Topics which may be 
of particular interest to this list include an entire manual on 
stay-making and a substantial chapter from a different source, both 
translated from French for the first time; likewise for mantua-making; 
unusually early instructions for knitting a variety of garments and 
accessories in addition to stockings; a large chapter of millinery 
instructions, including 52 trimmings; 25 embroidery patterns; and 
substantial information on the toilet, wardrobe planning, clothing care 
and storage, and laundry.

The book specs are:

The Lady's Stratagem: A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, 
Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette
Edited, translated, and with additional material by Frances Grimble
8 1/2" x 11" quality paperback
755 pages
98 line drawings, 36 halftones
Glossary, bibliography, and index
ISBN: 978-0-9636517-7-8
LCCN: 2008920010

More information, a color image of the cover, and a PDF of the table of 
contents are available on our website, http://www.lavoltapress.com.

Frances Grimble
Lavolta Press



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Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:59:53 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need help finding pictures of regency weddings
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Dear fellow costumers

I am looking for pictures of regency weddings to share with a friend who is
planning her wedding, regency style and is looking for ideas. Does anyone on
this list have pictures or links they can share with me?

Many thanks,
Aylwen

aylwengg@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French titles - medieval
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Chris,

I had the same reaction to The Devil's Cloth, and his book on  =

heraldry.  Entertaining, yes, but not always thoroughly grounded in  =

the most recent historical research.  Pastoreau's works are an okay  =

place to start a research project as long as you back it up with  =

other sources.

And the pictures are nice.  :-)

Suzanne

On Nov 2, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
> Date: November 1, 2008 9:04:26 PM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles
> ...
>
> On Nov 1, 2008, at 3:40 AM, Viv Watkins wrote:
>
>> You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much  =

>> wider period it has a good mediaeval section.
<trimmed>
>> The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des  =

>> tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher  =

>> Seuil (1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available  =

>> in the USA at =A315.26.
>> The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and  =

>> Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought  =

>> and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University  =

>> Press (2001).  Amazon has plenty of copies starting from =A37.99.
>
>
> Michel Pastoureau is a very entertaining writer, but tends to be a  =

> bit.... how shall I say this.... flamboyant? about some of what he  =

> says. I have a couple of his books, including _Blue: The History of  =

> a Color_ and right at the very beginning it contains some passages  =

> that appear to demonstrate that he either is not aware of, or is  =

> deliberately ignoring, some of the significant research on the  =

> cognitive history of color concepts (or so says the scholar who  =

> gave it to me).
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________

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Subject: [h-cost] More 1890s film discovered
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For the uninitated, the Melbourne Cup is an important horse race in Australia. 
In other parts of the world, you get a holiday for elections, national days, 
important memorial days. In Melbourne, you get the day off for the Melbourne 
Cup, always run on the first Tuesday in November.

For the fashion conscious, the event includes fashion shows, parades and 
millinery contests. There is also a lot of fancy dress vaguely above the level 
of men in nighties and women in sparkly hats...you know, the sort of thing worn 
to distract people from the fact you will be paraletic drunk by race-time.

The big event takes place outside the course in the Members' Carpark where the 
rich people have runners take bets in to the bookies as they drink champagne 
and chicken from the trunks of their Rolls Royces.

Oh, there is also a horse race on the day.

The event has been going for about a century and a half. The first ever film 
shot in Australia was at the 1896 Melbourne Cup, 15 short reels on events of 
the day that obviously shows fashion worn by racegoers, particularly men. About 
half of this footage has been lost although a seventh reel has been recently 
uncovered, showing the wieghing-in process.

It is funny how this stuff always seems to be uncovered around Meobourne Cup 
time but I suppose we all need to target our publicity, even film and sound 
archivists!

Below are a couple of links to newspaper articles on the footage. If you can 
find your way around the Australian Film & Sound Archives site, you may find 
some of the footage,

-C.


http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,,24581615-12428,00.html


http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,,24591077-2702,00.html





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 Beth Matney wrote:

>The following two books have been released and are now shipping from
>Amazon-UK. (My copies are on the way...)

>The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe Asia Africa The
>Americas: Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi Et Moderni by Ann Jones,
>Margaret F. Rosenthal
>Hardcover: 560 pages Thames & Hudson Ltd (27 Oct 2008) ISBN-10:
>0500514267 ISBN-13: 978-0500514269

>Patterns of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and  construction of
>linen  shirts, smocks, neckwear,
>headwear & accessories for men and women c.1540-1660. Macmillan (7
>Nov 2008) Paperback:
>128 pages ISBN-10: 0333570820 ISBN-13: 978-0333570821

>Sometime back, this list discussed this new edition of Vecellio and
>it has been much anticipated.

I catalogued a copy (of Vecellio) for the library last week. It's beautifully presented.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
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Ha, I knew you would post it here as well as in other groups (where advertising is forbidden:-).

My questions about this book are:
- are you planning to sell it through Amazon as well? 
- regarding the stays making part - are there instructions on how to draft the pattern from the person's measurements? I kind of didn't get this when reading the table of contents. 
- is pattern drafting discussed for other kinds of garments?
- I also didn't understand if fitting a garment is discussed - and if yes, fitting of which garments (stays as well)? 

Thanks a lot,

Zuzana




      
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I read these in some reviews on Amazon, check that out.

Zuzana


      
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I'll second (or third) the opinion on The Devil's Cloth. Entertaining, a=20
good jumping-off place for further research, and occasionally there's an=20
outright gem in his quoted sources that makes up for the eight or nine=20
pages you just spent thinking "Is he high?"

Jen

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008, Suzanne wrote:

> Chris,
>
> I had the same reaction to The Devil's Cloth, and his book on heraldry.=
=20
> Entertaining, yes, but not always thoroughly grounded in the most recent=
=20
> historical research.  Pastoreau's works are an okay place to start a rese=
arch=20
> project as long as you back it up with other sources.
>
> And the pictures are nice.  :-)
>
> Suzanne
>
> On Nov 2, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>> From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>> Date: November 1, 2008 9:04:26 PM CDT
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles
>> ...
>>=20
>> On Nov 1, 2008, at 3:40 AM, Viv Watkins wrote:
>>=20
>>> You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much wider=
=20
>>> period it has a good mediaeval section.
> <trimmed>
>>> The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des tissus=
=20
>>> rayes by Michel Pastoureau  ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil (1995). It=
 is=20
>>> out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the USA at =A315.26.
>>> The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Stripe=
d=20
>>> Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought and Cultural=
=20
>>> Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press (2001).  Amazon =
has=20
>>> plenty of copies starting from =A37.99.
>>=20
>>=20
>> Michel Pastoureau is a very entertaining writer, but tends to be a bit..=
=2E.=20
>> how shall I say this.... flamboyant? about some of what he says. I have =
a=20
>> couple of his books, including _Blue: The History of a Color_ and right =
at=20
>> the very beginning it contains some passages that appear to demonstrate=
=20
>> that he either is not aware of, or is deliberately ignoring, some of the=
=20
>> significant research on the cognitive history of color concepts (or so s=
ays=20
>> the scholar who gave it to me).
>> ____________________________________________________________
>>=20
>> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
>> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
>> ____________________________________________________________
>
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Ha, I knew you would post it here as well as in other groups (where advertising is forbidden:-).
> 
> My questions about this book are:
> - are you planning to sell it through Amazon as well? 

I don't know.  I don't sell direct to Amazon. Almost all of my bookstore 
sales are through by a wholesaler.

> - regarding the stays making part - are there instructions on how to draft the pattern from the person's measurements? I kind of didn't get this when reading the table of contents. 

The patterning instructions for stays give diagrams of shapes and 
directions, but assume the original reader (an amateur dressmaker/stay 
maker of the period) had a pair of stays to copy, which she then fitted 
and/or altered the style of as necessary. There is a great deal of 
step-by step instruction on assembling the stays, including preparing 
the whalebones.

> - is pattern drafting discussed for other kinds of garments?

There is some material from a period tailor's manual on drafting riding 
habits and pelisses, but drafting by measure was considered too 
sophisticated for amateurs of the period.  The original works do not 
even assume the amateur owns a tape measure. They use the 
notch-the-folded-strip-of-paper method of body measurement.

> - I also didn't understand if fitting a garment is discussed

Yes.

- and if yes, fitting of which garments (stays as well)?

Yes, the fitting of gowns and stays is discussed.

Hope this helps.


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On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:04 +0000 "JAMES OGILVIE" <bear_janet@msn.com>
writes:
> In celebration of the Society for Medieval Archeology's 50th 
> aniversary, the 
> first 50 volumes of the journal "Medieval Archeology" have been 
> placed 
> online for free viewing at
> http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/med_arch/
> There is as list of them by years and I just clicked on 1984 at 
> random to 
> find a 30 page article on late Saxon textile finds in the City of 
> London!

Where exactly did you find these?

thanks,
Arlys
____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the rental car that fits your needs.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nMUolgWTkTlLhW6h3rl913c6HgNbRmfA31FsuP1E9Oacx12/
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Thanks a lot for the answers. I'll keep this on my "wish list" till the happy day comes and I will be able to buy it. Hope it'll get to Amazon, because that saves a lot of money for me - I always buy more books at once to save on the shipping to Europe:-)

Zuzana


      
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What a coincidence! I didn't know the book existed until I saw a used copy =
today at Powell's in Chicago. If you live in the area and want to save on s=
hipping, you might want to see if it's still there (2850 N. Lincoln)
Carol Mitchell

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Costume Midwes=
t http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =



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More info, please?

Arlys

On Tue, 4 Nov 2008 23:15:17 -0800 (PST) carolmitchel@att.net writes:
> What a coincidence! I didn't know the book existed until I saw a used 
> copy today at Powell's in Chicago. If you live in the area and want 
> to save on shipping, you might want to see if it's still there (2850 
> N. Lincoln)
> Carol Mitchell
> 
>                      Costume Midwest 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/         
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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On Wednesday 05 November 2008 10:50:26 am Chiara Francesca wrote:
> It is a book:
> http://www.google.com/books?id=qc2jyomYg7oC&dq=devils+cloth&pg=PP1&ots=emkB
>FeV_Zh&source=bn&sig=VJs6xhhIxQLADRN2c9yzRkLTFwY
>
> It is the history of stripes on cloth. Very cool book. It has an almost
> cult following. :)

I can't imagine why; it has a rather low information to anecdote ratio, in my 
opinion.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand."
--Randy Pausch 

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Wow! Thanks for posting this :) I just forwarded the link withthe
video in it. Amazing it's incredibly clear so I suspect there was a
spot of restoration that went into it!
The woman with the neck ruff, amazing to see a fashion in motion like
that :) And all the hats...

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com

>
> http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,,24581615-12428,00.html
>
>
> http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,,24591077-2702,00.html
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On Nov 5, 2008, at 8:20 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> On Wednesday 05 November 2008 10:50:26 am Chiara Francesca wrote:
>> It is a book:
>> http://www.google.com/books?id=qc2jyomYg7oC&dq=devils 
>> +cloth&pg=PP1&ots=emkB
>> FeV_Zh&source=bn&sig=VJs6xhhIxQLADRN2c9yzRkLTFwY
>>
>> It is the history of stripes on cloth. Very cool book. It has an  
>> almost
>> cult following. :)
>
> I can't imagine why; it has a rather low information to anecdote  
> ratio, in my
> opinion.


Michel Pastoureau is a very entertaining writer. I have _Devil's  
Cloth_ and another one of his (_Blue: The History of a Color_) which  
has some huge and lovely photos in it. He's also written a very good  
little introductory paperback on the history of heraldry -- I used to  
keep an extra copy or two around to give to people who were just  
starting to become interested in the subject. Great photos in that  
one too.

But I agree, I wouldn't consider either book as an unquestionable  
source of historical information. He has a tendency to pick out  
particularly entertaining bits and talk about them, rather than  
considering the entire sweep of the evidence.  I'm also told that the  
"Blue" book demonstrates that he's either not aware of, or is  
ignoring, some of the more recent and important evidence on the  
history of color concepts and color words (or so said the cognitive  
linguist who gave it to me). That's a pretty serious failing for a  
book that purports to be about the history of the concept "blue."

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm looking into contracting out some of my patternmaking work. I've  
contacted a number of companies, but I thought I'd try here as well.  
If anyone knows of an independant contractor with professional  
skills, references, and experience, who can supply electronic files  
of finished work, and who is enthusiastic about historical costume,  
please contact me at margo@margospatterns.com


Thanks,

Margo
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I would like to help if I can. I have made many garments and costumes but d=
on't know if I have references for them. I am very good a graphics and comp=
uter work so the electronic versions are no problem. Just let me know what =
you need.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: lists@margospatterns.com> Date: =
Thu, 6 Nov 2008 13:18:02 -0800> To: h-costume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] =
Seeking A Patternmaker> > I'm looking into contracting out some of my patte=
rnmaking work. I've > contacted a number of companies, but I thought I'd tr=
y here as well. > If anyone knows of an independant contractor with profess=
ional > skills, references, and experience, who can supply electronic files=
 > of finished work, and who is enthusiastic about historical costume, > pl=
ease contact me at margo@margospatterns.com> > > Thanks,> > Margo> ________=
_______________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@=
mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows=AE connects the people, information, and fun that are part =
of your life
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119463819/direct/01/
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Quoting Lisa Tyson <Lisa_Tyson@umit.maine.edu>:

> Amazon UK has it on sale for 15 pounds
> (about $23 US ) plus shipping as part of their
> paperback books sale. I ordered
> mine today. It's a sweet deal if you can wait
> a few days for your order to arrive.
>

nods.  Total billed to my checking account was 36.60.  :-D  Hopefully  
it will be here tomorrow.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] [HNW] Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 4
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Mine arrived in the mail today.  Totally drool worthy.  I can see many
projects to come.

Guenivere
San Diego, CA

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 4:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [HNW] Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 4

Quoting Lisa Tyson <Lisa_Tyson@umit.maine.edu>:

> Amazon UK has it on sale for 15 pounds
> (about $23 US ) plus shipping as part of their
> paperback books sale. I ordered
> mine today. It's a sweet deal if you can wait
> a few days for your order to arrive.
>

nods.  Total billed to my checking account was 36.60.  :-D  Hopefully  
it will be here tomorrow.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4
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IT's here!! And it is wonderful!!!!!!
Now to have a moment or 12 to sit down and read it slooowly from 
cover to cover!!!
I think this old 1st cent Celt may be wandering up the time stream...
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Mine shipped yesterday and should arrive the end of next week.  (Hubby  
ordered it and had it gift wrapped!)  I did get a sneak peek preview of a  friend's 
pre-release copy a few weeks ago.  Awesome.  
 
Catherine 
 
 
In a message dated 11/7/2008 4:14:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cahuff@clearviewcatv.net writes:

IT's  here!! And it is wonderful!!!!!!
Now to have a moment or 12 to sit down and  read it slooowly from 
cover to cover!!!
I think this old 1st cent Celt  may be wandering up the time  stream...
Ta
Carol


**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
Holiday needs. Search Now. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
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Nothing wrong with doing both periods. 

Mine was billed yesterday. I'll get it in a couple of weeks.

Glenda
1st Century Romano-Briton
7th Century Saxon
17th Century Londoner

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cahuff
Sent: Saturday, 8 November 2008 8:13 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4

IT's here!! And it is wonderful!!!!!!
Now to have a moment or 12 to sit down and read it slooowly from 
cover to cover!!!
I think this old 1st cent Celt may be wandering up the time stream...
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 18:43:37 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm not letting myself buy it until I finish my current project, in  
the hopes that it will help me force myself to finish.  You all are  
weakening my resolve considerably, though.

Margo


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I ordered two more copies on 10/31, and got an email that they were
dispatched 11/05.  Woo-hoo!

Regina in L.A.
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Finish???Project??? Oxymoron if I ever heard one.

patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4

I'm not letting myself buy it until I finish my current project, in
the hopes that it will help me force myself to finish.  You all are
weakening my resolve considerably, though.

Margo


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No one has mentioned what someone told me yesterday--there are color
illustrations as well as black and white. I am SO ready for my copy to get
here!

MaggiRos

On Fri, Nov 7, 2008 at 10:34 PM, Bella
<bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>wrote:

> From: Margo Anderson lists@margospatterns.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4
>
> I'm not letting myself buy it until I finish my current project, in the
> hopes that it will help me force myself to finish.  You all are weakening my
> resolve considerably, though.
>
> Margo<<<<<
>
>
>
> Let me weaken it further, by just saying I got mine yesterday and - this
> book is awesome! It is totally droolworthy.
>
>
>
> Bella :-)
>
>
>      Find your perfect match today at the new Yahoo!7 Dating. Get Started
> http://au.dating.yahoo.com/?cid=53151&pid=1012
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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No one has mentioned what someone told me yesterday--there are color
illustrations as well as black and white. I am SO ready for my copy to get
here!

MaggiRos
**************************
Illustrations?! No, color PHOTOS and nice close up ones.  Pictures are even
better than those in QEWU!!  Wonderful book.  I paid the full $50 at our
local ren faire.  SOOOO worth it.

Julie in Ramona (San Diego)

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Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 18:26:36 -0800
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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At the time I only knew about color. Then this afternoon the very nice
postman handed me my copies and WOW. Yes, color photos throughout the whole
first of the book. My oh my, I have too much to do today to read every word,
but I've paged through it all so far. Damn, I don't even care about 2/3 of
this stuff, but what a treasure!!!

MaggiRos

On Sat, Nov 8, 2008 at 1:03 PM, Julie Tamura <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>wrote:

> No one has mentioned what someone told me yesterday--there are color
> illustrations as well as black and white. I am SO ready for my copy to get
> here!
>
> MaggiRos
> **************************
> Illustrations?! No, color PHOTOS and nice close up ones.  Pictures are even
> better than those in QEWU!!  Wonderful book.  I paid the full $50 at our
> local ren faire.  SOOOO worth it.
>
> Julie in Ramona (San Diego)
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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Hi, 

I would be sooooo grateful if someone of you knew of a review or wrote a review of these three books:
Patterns of fashion 4
Corsets by Jill Salen
Pattern cutting for men's costume by Elizabeth Friendship

I am especially curious about the last one. As far as I know, apart from the Costume technician's handbook there is no GOOD costume drafting book for 16th to 18th c. out there. I don't have the Costume tech. handbook, but I suppose it's relatively simple and more theater-oriented than I would like. I also don't much believe books that try to cover all periods and all sorts of clothing. 

Zuzana



___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Regarding the new JA Book 4,
I have to wait until payday to purchase my copy! Wahhhh but it will be
purchased on Friday!! I can't wait!

Cilean
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I would love to do a review of "Corsets" by Jill Salen.  I have been looking
to buy it just the other week.

Sidney


On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 9:18 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I would be sooooo grateful if someone of you knew of a review or wrote a
> review of these three books:
> Patterns of fashion 4
> Corsets by Jill Salen
> Pattern cutting for men's costume by Elizabeth Friendship
>
> I am especially curious about the last one. As far as I know, apart from
> the Costume technician's handbook there is no GOOD costume drafting book for
> 16th to 18th c. out there. I don't have the Costume tech. handbook, but I
> suppose it's relatively simple and more theater-oriented than I would like.
> I also don't much believe books that try to cover all periods and all sorts
> of clothing.
>
> Zuzana
>
> ___________________________
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz
>
>
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In a message dated 11/9/2008 5:58:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sid.young@gmail.com writes:

I would  love to do a review of "Corsets" by Jill Salen.


*******************
 
It has clear and easy to blow up on a grid patterns. Some nice 18th century  
patterns I haven't seen. Not a great representation of the early and mid 19th  
century....a bit eclectic IMHO. Lovely late 19th century examples. 2 doll  
corsets plus an 18th century project and a 19th century project...meaning  
instructions on making the projects up. There is also a section with  how-tos on 
sewing techniques used in the depicted corsets. It's all very clear  but not for 
out and out beginners.
 
I think there are too many quilted, lightly bones stays in here and ribbon  
corsets covered in the 19th century. Even these are very adaptable  though to a 
more rigidly boned style if that were what one wanted. The  shapes are 
there.... you can add bones. And the softer corded and quilted  styles would be 
better for reenacting and theatre....where the wearers might not  want to go 
heavily boned. This is obviously the idea behind the choices of  examples. Ms Salen 
wants you to make up a pretty corset and wear it.
 
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
Holiday needs. Search Now. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
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Hi,

My small light portable machine has developed problems beyond the easily fixable. It's an older Brother.  I've gone looking at the more expensive machines, but am thinking that now is not the time.

I have an old Kenmore that does the bulk of my straight or zig zag stitching, but I recently got to play with a machine that has lots of fancy stitches and I liked them. I also want a machine that can go places. Yeah, I have indeed taken a sewing machine to a SF con and sewed in my room. 

I've found two online that are possible, a Singer (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3199&PRODID=xprd872794&utm_source=Joann&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Prd10&utm_content=HTML&utm_campaign=EML20081109-D&rId=EML20081109-D) and a Brother http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11222787&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=&lang=en-US&s=1

Between Brothers and Singers, any opinions which are better? 

Thanks,
Susan in Seattle
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Hi Susan,

I bought a new Janome on eBay for next to nothing also an overlocker at 1/2
retail and both work well. I suggest that you look at eBay, then compare to
your local shops. You will find an inexpensive machine that meets your
requirements. The singer looks fine to me and the price looks good, just
shop around and use web sites that do the price comparisons for you.

Sidney

On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 5:39 PM, scourney <scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My small light portable machine has developed problems beyond the easily
> fixable. It's an older Brother.  I've gone looking at the more expensive
> machines, but am thinking that now is not the time.
>
> I have an old Kenmore that does the bulk of my straight or zig zag
> stitching, but I recently got to play with a machine that has lots of fancy
> stitches and I liked them. I also want a machine that can go places. Yeah, I
> have indeed taken a sewing machine to a SF con and sewed in my room.
>
> I've found two online that are possible, a Singer (
> http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3199&PRODID=xprd872794&utm_source=Joann&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Prd10&utm_content=HTML&utm_campaign=EML20081109-D&rId=EML20081109-D)
> and a Brother
> http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11222787&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=&lang=en-US&s=1
>
> Between Brothers and Singers, any opinions which are better?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan in Seattle
> _______________________________________________
>
>
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I just got the email today that it was dispatched so I should get it some
time after my last exam is over (this Friday) when I've got free time to
examine it in minute detail. My dad bought it for me as a belated birthday
present (my birthday was in July but he was overseas at the time & I
couldn't think of anything I wanted so I said we'll go shopping when you get
home. Then I forgot & got busy with study & he reminded me that I hadn't
claimed my birthday present just as somebody on this list mentioned how
cheap it was on Amazon UK so I emailed him the link)
So you see, procrastination and indecision is a good thing! ;D
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machines
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My 2 cents:

I bought a Brother CS6000i  this Summer.  It was 179.95 through  
Walmart.  They delivered to my home in 2 days for  99 cents shipping.  
Google it for current offers from various distributors.  It weighs 10  
pounds.

Since I do quilting, I liked the accessory pack that was included n  
the price.  This may not be of value to you.  I Reviewed many machines  
n line.  The main complaint with this machine is thread getting  
tangled.  The BEST advice I read was "Just re-thread it.  I know you  
think you did it right, but do it over."  On the few occasions that I  
had thread tangle, I simply re-threaded and it was OK.

Susan
NJ


On Nov 10, 08, at 2:39 AM, scourney wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My small light portable machine has developed problems beyond the  
> easily fixable. It's an older Brother.  I've gone looking at the  
> more expensive machines, but am thinking that now is not the time.
>
> I have an old Kenmore that does the bulk of my straight or zig zag  
> stitching, but I recently got to play with a machine that has lots  
> of fancy stitches and I liked them. I also want a machine that can  
> go places. Yeah, I have indeed taken a sewing machine to a SF con  
> and sewed in my room.
>
> I've found two online that are possible, a Singer (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3199&PRODID=xprd872794&utm_source=Joann&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Prd10&utm_content=HTML&utm_campaign=EML20081109-D&rId=EML20081109-D 
> ) and a Brother http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11222787&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=&lang=en-US&s=1
>
> Between Brothers and Singers, any opinions which are better?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan in Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Hi, I am not a big fan of Singer or some cheap versions of Brother. Most of the machines by these companies don't look to be enough precisely made. Singer used to be good, but now it seems they're machines are not of such a high quality as they used to be. 

I would prefer Pfaff or Janome. Pfaff machines can last for a long time and they hardly get broken. Similar with Janome, but Janome machines with the same features as Pfaff are much cheaper. Don't ask me why, the quality is often even better (as what many sewing machine specialists say). 

I recently bought a Janome 6600P for circa $1000 and I am very satisfied, this is the best home sewing machine I could ever find. It is, however, very heavy as it is almost fully made of metal.

But Janome makes many quality machines that are very low cost. 
I bought mine at www.strima.com - a Polish company with very low prices!! Maybe even worth the shipping...

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 



      
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> Let me weaken it further, by just saying I got mine yesterday and - this book is awesome! It is totally droolworthy.

Yup. Mine got here last Friday. Totally cool - all in colour - and
explains all those weird construction bits we've been wondering about,
in detail. Verrrry interesting :-)
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Susan wrote:
" The BEST advice I read was "Just re-thread it.  I know you think you did
it right, but do it over."  On the few occasions that I had thread tangle, I
simply re-threaded and it was OK."

Here's a tip for threading your machine--the spool should be VERTICAL, not
horizontal, for best thread flow. Thread with the presser foot UP so that
the tension discs are open, and your thread can go in.

And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is old, black
and metal. Check out your local Bernina dealer--they may have something
wonderful available as a trade in.

Kim

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> And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is old,
> black and metal.

Hear, hear. That's been my experience also. Within ten years or so, the
Singer name was sold, so the new "Singer" machines are not really the
Singers that we all know and love. I have been able to get old, black
Singers for under $100.0, and they are by far the best machines I have
ever owned.

Marjorie
-- 
Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net



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FYI - I was told that Brother is made by Singer.

All that was said about newer Singers presumably holds with newer  
Brothers, as well.

Susan
NJ



On Nov 10, 08, at 11:33 AM, Kim Baird wrote:

>
> Susan wrote:
> " The BEST advice I read was "Just re-thread it.  I know you think  
> you did
> it right, but do it over."  On the few occasions that I had thread  
> tangle, I
> simply re-threaded and it was OK."
>
> Here's a tip for threading your machine--the spool should be  
> VERTICAL, not
> horizontal, for best thread flow. Thread with the presser foot UP so  
> that
> the tension discs are open, and your thread can go in.
>
> And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is  
> old, black
> and metal. Check out your local Bernina dealer--they may have  
> something
> wonderful available as a trade in.
>
> Kim
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I have an additional question, if one were to purchase a machine just
to do buttonholes, what machine would you reccomend?

alex
hates to do them manually, and considering a machine that does nothing but...

On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 11:35 AM, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
> FYI - I was told that Brother is made by Singer.
>
> All that was said about newer Singers presumably holds with newer Brothers,
> as well.
>
> Susan
> NJ
>
>
>
> On Nov 10, 08, at 11:33 AM, Kim Baird wrote:
>
>>
>> Susan wrote:
>> " The BEST advice I read was "Just re-thread it.  I know you think you did
>> it right, but do it over."  On the few occasions that I had thread tangle,
>> I
>> simply re-threaded and it was OK."
>>
>> Here's a tip for threading your machine--the spool should be VERTICAL, not
>> horizontal, for best thread flow. Thread with the presser foot UP so that
>> the tension discs are open, and your thread can go in.
>>
>> And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is old,
>> black
>> and metal. Check out your local Bernina dealer--they may have something
>> wonderful available as a trade in.
>>
>> Kim
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
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-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machines and button holes
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I hate to say it, but an old black Singer, with the buttonhole attachment,
makes the best buttonholes ever. 
Other than that, you'd have to go pretty high end to get a decent automatic
buttonhole. The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew all
the holes the same.

Kim 


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> buttonhole. The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
> you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew all
> the holes the same.

Yup. I have a Viking Lily 555, and it makes really nice button holes...
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At 10:55 AM -0700 11/10/08, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I have an additional question, if one were to purchase a machine just
>to do buttonholes, what machine would you reccomend?

Um an older Singer with the attachment. Makes the best button holes. 
I got a  Singer 401 (slant needle) for $40 and the slant needle 
buttonholer for $5. The 401 has all the fancy stitches with the cams 
and some built in. Its a tank and sews like a dream.

My latest was an Elna Supermatic that is a low shank machine so it 
can take the Singer buttonholer. Also works like a Swiss watch, and 
is very portable. Has a bazzillion fancy stitches with the cams.

If you want a good affordable machine, look for an older all metal 
one. Name brand or Japanese copy.

Ta
Carol, who has also take a sewing machine to a convention and used it...<G>
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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scourney wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My small light portable machine has developed problems beyond the easily fixable. It's an older Brother.  I've gone looking at the more expensive machines, but am thinking that now is not the time.

Not a big fan of Brother or Singer.

The ultimate portable is the Elna Lotus. This model was made in the 70's 
and 80's. It's smaller than a Singer Featherweight and self-boxing, but 
has about a dozen stitches and a good buttonhole system.

andy
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Alexandria Doyle wrote:
> I have an additional question, if one were to purchase a machine just
> to do buttonholes, what machine would you recommend?

The big fancy embroidery machines, not surprisingly, do great buttonholes.

I'm with the rest of the gang, though. The old brick foot with cams for 
different size buttonholes is the best. Most old straight-stitch 
machines supported some variant on this system.

andy
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Andy wrote:
The ultimate portable is the Elna Lotus. This model was made in the 70's and
80's. It's smaller than a Singer Featherweight and self-boxing, but has
about a dozen stitches and a good buttonhole system.

I have one of these, and it is a great little machine, perfect for travel.
There are 3 on ebay at the moment.

You should consider a Janome Gem for travel. I've heard good things about
them.
Kim


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I have some scrap wool flannel in a deep pink - it's not a pastel and
it's not a fushia, just a good solid color.  The color was good for my
granddaughter who is a pink girl, but not for me - I'm a jewel tone
fan.

I want to make a shawl or drape that I can wear while in bed/ around
the house kind of thing -I'm getting ready for some major surgery that
may or may not keep me bed bound for the recovery, at the first of
December, and the local weather may be cold, and it may not... But I
thought a wrap of this wool would be lovely for reading in bed or
while in the hospital.  I just can't live with the pink.  I'd like
something in the cranberry/claret range.

I'm also expecting to full this so it will be real warm, because you
never can tell about hospital rooms, either over warm or freezing!

any suggestions on what colors to use to get the cranberry/claret color desired?
alex

-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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> The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
> you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew
> all the holes the same.

     Actually I remember something from waaaay back, maybe in the 70s, a
style where you would place your button in the attachment rather than
a cam. Not sure if it made allowances for button thickness, though. A
thick or domed button needs a bit more than the usual diameter+
buttonhole.

     I agree with setting up a dedicated machine with the buttonholer
attachment. Just make sure it's the type where you can change the
cams from the top, without having to remove the attachment each time.
;-)

     -Carol

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How about brazilwood?


any suggestions on what colors to use to get the cranberry/claret color desired?
alex

--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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In my experience, dyeing over with a similar but deeper color is usually 
very successful. Your new color is likely to entirely cover the old 
color and not conflict with it. Therefore, just pick the shade of red 
you want off the manufacturer's dye chart.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Alexandria Doyle wrote:

<snip>
I just can't live with the pink.  I'd like
> something in the cranberry/claret range.
> 
> I'm also expecting to full this so it will be real warm, because you
> never can tell about hospital rooms, either over warm or freezing!
> 
> any suggestions on what colors to use to get the cranberry/claret color desired?
> alex
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yeah - I remember waaaay back, too. I had one of those, & I don't believe it did make allowance for thickness. Since I usually used rather standard buttons, it worked quite well.

Patty


     Actually I remember something from waaaay back, maybe in the 70s, a
style where you would place your button in the attachment rather than
a cam. Not sure if it made allowances for button thickness, though. A
thick or domed button needs a bit more than the usual diameter+
buttonhole.


     -Carol

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On Nov 10, 2008, at 12:08 PM, aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:

>> The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
>> you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size,  
>> and sew
>> all the holes the same.
>
>     Actually I remember something from waaaay back, maybe in the  
> 70s, a
> style where you would place your button in the attachment rather than
> a cam. Not sure if it made allowances for button thickness, though. A
> thick or domed button needs a bit more than the usual diameter+
> buttonhole.

I had a Singer Futura II 920 (the last good machine Singer ever made)  
with a one-step buttonhole system. You attached the buttonhole foot,  
inserted the button, and flipped a lever to complete the set-up. It  
did account for button thickness by using an angled stop; thicker  
buttons would result in a longer buttonhole.

andy
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You could dye over using something in the red range. Try cold water dye, as
then the wool won't shrink. Or soak it in very strong cold tea. It will dull
the color somewhat.
Or sew up a quilt with it as the batting. Or a quilted bed jacket/shawl. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 12:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] dying question

I have some scrap wool flannel in a deep pink - it's not a pastel and it's
not a fushia, just a good solid color.  The color was good for my
granddaughter who is a pink girl, but not for me - I'm a jewel tone fan.

I want to make a shawl or drape that I can wear while in bed/ around the
house kind of thing -I'm getting ready for some major surgery that may or
may not keep me bed bound for the recovery, at the first of December, and
the local weather may be cold, and it may not... But I thought a wrap of
this wool would be lovely for reading in bed or while in the hospital.  I
just can't live with the pink.  I'd like something in the cranberry/claret
range.

I'm also expecting to full this so it will be real warm, because you never
can tell about hospital rooms, either over warm or freezing!

any suggestions on what colors to use to get the cranberry/claret color
desired?
alex

--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know,
having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury,
mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday..."  ;)
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> In my experience, dyeing over with a similar but deeper color is usually
> very successful. Your new color is likely to entirely cover the old
> color and not conflict with it. Therefore, just pick the shade of red
> you want off the manufacturer's dye chart.

     Every once in a while, though, you get a piece of fabric where the
fibers are apparently saturated with the original color and will not
take a new dye. In that case, RIT dye remover will help before trying
the new color. Otherwise I agree that any old shade of red or reddish
brown will work =97 whatever you like. And dyeing in hot water will
full the wool a bit.

     RIT contains both dyes for animal fiber and plant fiber. Toss in a
plant fiber item (cotton or linen) and then you'll get extra mileage
out of the dye.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machines and button holes
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Every time I've ever used a 1-step drop-in-the-button buttonholer, the
button shifts or pops out before I've done more than a couple. I can't keep
my eye on the button and the fabric, too.

MaggiRos

On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 1:14 PM, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>wrote:

>
> On Nov 10, 2008, at 12:08 PM, aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>
>  The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
>>> you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew
>>> all the holes the same.
>>>
>>
>>    Actually I remember something from waaaay back, maybe in the 70s, a
>> style where you would place your button in the attachment rather than
>> a cam. Not sure if it made allowances for button thickness, though. A
>> thick or domed button needs a bit more than the usual diameter+
>> buttonhole.
>>
>
> I had a Singer Futura II 920 (the last good machine Singer ever made) with
> a one-step buttonhole system. You attached the buttonhole foot, inserted the
> button, and flipped a lever to complete the set-up. It did account for
> button thickness by using an angled stop; thicker buttons would result in a
> longer buttonhole.
>
> andy



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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Personally, I like the older Berninas{1990s or earlier}=A0for buttonholes. =
They go in so nice and easy.=A0 I have a 1000 I bought JUST for buttonholes=
 on eBay. I also have a Brother 1500s, a Consew Industrial, a Pfaff 6122, a=
 1985 Necci, a Juki 622 serger and a Pfaff coverlock serger. =

=A0
Jodi Nelson


      =

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In a message dated 11/10/2008 8:39:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
maggiros@gmail.com writes:

Every  time I've ever used a 1-step drop-in-the-button  buttonholer


*******************
 
I've had zero problem with mine. It makes great buttonholes! And I'm just  
using a Brother Inovis 80....I got to use while my Bernina was in the shop. My  
Bernina makes great buttonholes too...on the almost exact same principle as 
the  Brother machine. I must admit I sorta chug along while I make them instead 
of  going fast. The one time I was in a hurry and was making the hole fast, 
the  button did rattle out of the presserfoot, but it didn't matter since the 
gauge  doesn't move unless you push with a bit of force on it, and then it 
clicks into  the next setting. But that didn't happen.
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
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I like Berninas full stop.
 
The older mechanical ones are the best (less to go wrong, so they're  
workhorses).
 
And the buttonholes are good too (although better if you do the corded  
version, which are fabulos.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machines
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Hear, hear. That's been my experience also. Within ten years or so, the
Singer name was sold, so the new "Singer" machines are not really the
Singers that we all know and love. I have been able to get old, black
Singers for under $100.0, and they are by far the best machines I have
ever owned.

Marjorie>>

My old Singer was $60. It came IN a cabinet, complete with matching bench, 
and all accessories, including the buttonholer. I had to replace the motor, 
which cost all of $17 including shipping, and involved two screws to attach 
it to the machine.

Not only does it run like a dream (though I haven't tried the buttonholer) 
but it is a thing of beauty in itself.

Dianne

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Ok, it is $50, but just got word that my order of Janet Arnold, Vol 4 is
"shipping soon" from amazon.com  so they should have copies in stock

Cindy Abel

 
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Subject: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta
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Hi,
Can anyone tell me what happens to silk taffeta when it is washed in soap and water? I have machine washed and dried a lot of silk dupioni, and am very pleased with the fabric that results (it shrinks a lot, but the resulting fabric is thus denser and more closely-woven; the colors and shine don't seem to be hurt by the process, but it is softer) and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. And I will probably just run the experiment on some taffeta to find out for myself; but I would be grateful for information on what to expect if anyone has experince to share. Does it lose all crispness?

Thanks!
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
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I inherited my grandmother's Singer. I think it may have been purchased in the late 60s or early 70s. I had it serviced and some new electrical cords added but it never worked quite right. Anything more than the thinnest fabric and the gears seemed to slip. Now that my not all that old Kenmore is giving me fits I wonder if I should take the Singer in as well. I have the owners manua, cams, and a bunch of feet.

Mary



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Yesterday, Amazon.com stated that Patterns of Fashion 4 was $64.00 and there
were none in stock.  How did you get the $50 price?

Diane

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Abel, Cynthia
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 1:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping

Ok, it is $50, but just got word that my order of Janet Arnold, Vol 4 is
"shipping soon" from amazon.com  so they should have copies in stock

Cindy Abel

 
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>> buttonhole. The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
>> you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew all
>> the holes the same.
>>     
>
> Yup. I have a Viking Lily 555, and it makes really nice button holes...

I do too, and I agree. I bought it for the buttonholes. I tried several 
different makes of machine before deciding on one that was right for me. 
I think it's the only way to go. There are so many features to consider, 
and you can really only tell if the machine is comfortable and a good 
fit for you if you test drive it.  I looked at other machines but did 
not like the way the reverse feature worked, or the placement of the 
knee lift, and other things. You can only find that out by trying them.



Dawn


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I got mine from http://www.poisonpenpress.com/=A0for $52.95 and it came qui=
te rapidly



________________________________
From: Diane Maynard <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 2:04:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping

Yesterday, Amazon.com stated that Patterns of Fashion 4 was $64.00 and there
were none in stock.=A0 How did you get the $50 price?

Diane

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Abel, Cynthia
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 1:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping

Ok, it is $50, but just got word that my order of Janet Arnold, Vol 4 is
"shipping soon" from amazon.com=A0 so they should have copies in stock

Cindy Abel


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I haven't tried it, but I think this would be one of the safest silk fabrics to hand-wash. Julie Parker in her book All about silk says it could be hand-washed - and should be rolled in a towel to dry. The same with silk shantung. Interesting, she does not recommend this for douppioni. Probably because of the shrinkage - shantung and taffeta are more tightly woven, so they would not shrink that much.

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 



      
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
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It's still =A314.99 at Amazon.uk (=3DUS$23). My postage from UK to Australi=
a was
=A38, so I figure buying from Amazon UK would be $US30-35 (half price).

 =


Glenda.

 =


-----Original Message-----



 =


Yesterday, Amazon.com stated that Patterns of Fashion 4 was $64.00 and there

were none in stock.  How did you get the $50 price?

 =


Diane

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 17:14:05 -0500
Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping
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Just had mine billed from Amazon.uk to USA $35.62. Hooray!

________________________________________
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf O=
f Glenda Robinson [glendaslists@exemail.com.au]
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 4:58 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping

It's still =A314.99 at Amazon.uk (=3DUS$23). My postage from UK to Australi=
a was
=A38, so I figure buying from Amazon UK would be $US30-35 (half price).



Glenda.



-----Original Message-----





Yesterday, Amazon.com stated that Patterns of Fashion 4 was $64.00 and there

were none in stock.  How did you get the $50 price?



Diane

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Well that is cheaper than booktopia.. my god they charge a fortune.

  [image: Patterns of Fashion No. 4 : The Cut and Construction of Linen
Shirts, Smocks, Neck and Headwear, Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540 -
1660]
<http://www.booktopia.com.au/patterns-of-fashion-no-4-the-cut-and-construct=
ion-of-linen-shirts-smocks-neck-and-headwear-accessories-for-men-and-women-=
c-1540-1660/prod9780333570821.html>
 Patterns of Fashion No. 4 : The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts,
Smocks, Neck and Headwear, Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540 -
1660<http://www.booktopia.com.au/patterns-of-fashion-no-4-the-cut-and-const=
ruction-of-linen-shirts-smocks-neck-and-headwear-accessories-for-men-and-wo=
men-c-1540-1660/prod9780333570821.html>

By: Janet Arnold<http://www.booktopia.com.au/search.ep?author=3DJanet%20Arn=
old>
Format: Paperback
    Retail Price: $85.00  Booktopia Price $76.50

<http://www.booktopia.com.au/patterns-of-fashion-no-4-the-cut-and-construct=
ion-of-linen-shirts-smocks-neck-and-headwear-accessories-for-men-and-women-=
c-1540-1660/prod9780333570821.html>
  Description: Janet Arnold was a historian of fashion, which combined her
two greatest passions: the theatre and clothes. Her early......

ISBN-13: 9780333570821
ISBN: 0333570820



On Wed, Nov 12, 2008 at 7:58 AM, Glenda Robinson <
glendaslists@exemail.com.au> wrote:

> It's still =A314.99 at Amazon.uk (=3DUS$23). My postage from UK to Austra=
lia
> was
> =A38, so I figure buying from Amazon UK would be $US30-35 (half price).
>
>
>
> Glenda.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
>
>
> Yesterday, Amazon.com stated that Patterns of Fashion 4 was $64.00 and
> there
>
> were none in stock.  How did you get the $50 price?
>
>
>
> Diane
>
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Take it in! Take it in! Like mutts, old sewing machines should always be taken 
in!

Your repairer may be able to replace those slipping gears or re-set them; in 
post middle 1960's Singers, the workings on the undersides are prone to wear or 
loose-fitting and can sometimes be fixed. I have jammed around with 
screwdrivers under a number of them over the years and had pretty good success.

Also have a good look at the drop-in stitch disks if it is the type of machine 
with those, are they worn?

-C.


> I inherited my grandmother's Singer. I think it may have been purchased in
> the late 60s or early 70s. I had it serviced and some new electrical cords
> added but it never worked quite right. Anything more than the thinnest fabric
> and the gears seemed to slip. Now that my not all that old Kenmore is giving
> me fits I wonder if I should take the Singer in as well. I have the owners
> manua, cams, and a bunch of feet.



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I just finished making the 1590s copper wire supportasse as shown in
the book.  I'm the first one on my block to have one.  Fun!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Pictures, missy! Pictures at once!

MaggiRos

On Tue, Nov 11, 2008 at 3:44 PM, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> I just finished making the 1590s copper wire supportasse as shown in
> the book.  I'm the first one on my block to have one.  Fun!
> --cin
>
>

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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The trouble with that is that silk taffeta has water soluble sizing so it's
not going to be as stiff after washing.
Elizabeth
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/ 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Wednesday, 12 November 2008 8:59 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta

I haven't tried it, but I think this would be one of the safest silk fabrics
to hand-wash. Julie Parker in her book All about silk says it could be
hand-washed - and should be rolled in a towel to dry. The same with silk
shantung. Interesting, she does not recommend this for douppioni. Probably
because of the shrinkage - shantung and taffeta are more tightly woven, so
they would not shrink that much.

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 



      
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> The trouble with that is that silk taffeta has water soluble sizing so 
> it's
> not going to be as stiff after washing.

Well, yes, all silk (except maybe noil) does, to a certain extent. It might, 
or might not, be a problem. Thing is, you won't know until you try it with 
your particular piece of fabric. Also, to give it back some of its 
crispiness, add some vinegar to the rinse water. 

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I'm getting kind of desperate for a 2009 historic or vintage 
costume-related wall calendar.  Any recommendations?

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Fran--

Check out this place:
http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1

I like these:

Dressing the Light 2009 Wall Calendar
The Little Black Dress 2009 Wall Calendar 

If you put FASHION in the search box, you'll get lots of possibilities.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 10:05 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Need costume calendar

I'm getting kind of desperate for a 2009 historic or vintage costume-related
wall calendar.  Any recommendations?

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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--- On Tue, 11/11/08, lauren.walker@comcast.net <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what happens to silk taffeta when it is
> washed in soap and water? <snip>
> but I would be grateful for information
> on what to expect if anyone has experince to share. Does it
> lose all crispness?
> 
> Thanks!
> Lauren


Hi Lauren,

I have washed silk taffeta for my Tudor kirtle, and it stinks from the heavy chemicals that make it smooth. The smell went away once it dried. It now has wrinkles with little fine wrinkles that in my outfit has never smoothed out perfectly, even with my new tank Rowenta steam iron. But the kirtle is now washable, and water spots don't stay now (important for me when I end up eating in public repasts). It is a little softer, has that mini-wrinkled look, and didn't shrink all that much. I can now machine wash the kirtle I made with it, but it does make me think twice about buying taffeta, since that smell was strong and the wrinkles are a little annoying.

BTW, not all silk taffeta does the mini-wrinkle thing. One of my other taffetas did not do that on the small test swatch, and was not as stinky, but I haven't washed up the whole fabric yet. I am still debating what to do with it, since the fabric was bought for an Elizabethan tall hat.

Kimiko





      
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--- On Tue, 11/11/08, lauren.walker@comcast.net <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:

> and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. 


Hi again Lauren,

Does silk crepe shrink or get thicker much? I am pondering buying some and dyeing it, but I don't want to use it if it is going to really shrink a lot, like wool crepe does.

Thank you,

Kimiko





      
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The Plimoth Plantation is offering the book for sale through their
online shop.  Price is 49.95 plus 8.95 shipping.  I do not know if/how
many they have on hand right now however.
 
Catherine
who had this on her Christmas list and is about to decide Christmas is
coming waaaay early this year!
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> Can anyone tell me what happens to silk taffeta when it is washed in 
soap and water? 
> I have machine washed and dried a lot of silk dupioni, and am very 
pleased with the 
> fabric that results (it shrinks a lot, but the resulting fabric is thus 
denser and 
> more closely-woven; the colors and shine don't seem to be hurt by the 
process, but 
> it is softer) and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. And 
I will 
> probably just run the experiment on some taffeta to find out for myself; 
but I would 
> be grateful for information on what to expect if anyone has experience 
to share. 
> Does it lose all crispness?

I kick myself every time I forget and wash silk taffeta by machine - it 
looses quite a bit of the crispness (though not all) and a fair amount of 
the sheen. It doesn't completely change the character of the fabric, but 
it's just not as pretty as before I washed it (imo). I haven't noticed any 
shrinkage, however. 

Good luck!
        -sunny
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Thank you! I found a lovely renaissance calendar, and they had others
specifically of Vermeer, Boticelli, and other artists in my area of
interest.  Just what I've been looking for. Pomegranite Press had the
perfect one last year but nothing at all this time. Thanks for the link!

MaggiRos

On Tue, Nov 11, 2008 at 8:18 PM, Kim Baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:

>
> Fran--
>
> Check out this place:
> http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1
>
> I like these:
>
> Dressing the Light 2009 Wall Calendar
> The Little Black Dress 2009 Wall Calendar
>
> If you put FASHION in the search box, you'll get lots of possibilities.
>
>


-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 17:57:00 +0000
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] washing silk crepe (was Washing silk taffeta)
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Hi,
I find that silk crepes vary more than wools, and so it bears repeating that one should always test a sample to be sure. BUT, that said, I have a bunch of purchased blouses (!) made of silk crepe, and if I hand wash them in cold and hang to dry, they come out about the same size they went in. The one caveat with a really crinkly crepe is you will have to iron it (very damp) to get it to resume its original size; the crepe weave likes to crinkle up on itself. 

I hope this was useful.
Thanks!
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> 

> 
> --- On Tue, 11/11/08, lauren.walker@comcast.net 
> wrote: 
> 
> > and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. 
> 
> 
> Hi again Lauren, 
> 
> Does silk crepe shrink or get thicker much? I am pondering buying some and 
> dyeing it, but I don't want to use it if it is going to really shrink a lot, 
> like wool crepe does. 
> 
> Thank you, 
> 
> Kimiko 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need costume calendar
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Thank you as well.  They've got a Canadian partner site that has the 
Frank Lloyd Wright calendar I've been looking for.  Some of the US sites 
will only ship to Canada via UPS, who charge exorbitant fees for customs 
brokerage/clearance (not to mention just the shipping costs).  Gets sort 
of silly for just a calendar...

Susan

Maggie wrote:
> Thank you! I found a lovely renaissance calendar, and they had others
> specifically of Vermeer, Boticelli, and other artists in my area of
> interest.  Just what I've been looking for. Pomegranite Press had the
> perfect one last year but nothing at all this time. Thanks for the link!
>
> MaggiRos
>
> On Tue, Nov 11, 2008 at 8:18 PM, Kim Baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> Fran--
>>
>> Check out this place:
>> http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1
>>
>> I like these:
>>
>> Dressing the Light 2009 Wall Calendar
>> The Little Black Dress 2009 Wall Calendar
>>
>> If you put FASHION in the search box, you'll get lots of possibilities.
>>
>>
>>     
>
>
>   

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In a message dated 11/12/2008 7:41:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
scarrollclark@gmail.com writes:

http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1



***********
 
Wow! Look at all the calendars with images by Paul Klee! One of my fave  
artists. Not costume but not that common either.  Beautiful!
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
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You inspired me to look up pretty callendars but as I didn't want to pay
international shipping (plus I'd like one that included local public
holidays) so I did a Google search and found they have a nearly identical
Australian website http://www.calendars.com.au/index.asp which means no
nasty exchange rates or international shipping.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, 13 November 2008 12:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need costume calendar

 
In a message dated 11/12/2008 7:41:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
scarrollclark@gmail.com writes:

http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1



***********
 
Wow! Look at all the calendars with images by Paul Klee! One of my fave
artists. Not costume but not that common either.  Beautiful!
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi
r=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
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An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores  
crispness? Is it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or  
something more interesting?
Geekly,
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com


On Nov 11, 2008, at 10:57 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> The trouble with that is that silk taffeta has water soluble  
>> sizing so it's
>> not going to be as stiff after washing.
>
> Well, yes, all silk (except maybe noil) does, to a certain extent.  
> It might, or might not, be a problem. Thing is, you won't know  
> until you try it with your particular piece of fabric. Also, to  
> give it back some of its crispiness, add some vinegar to the rinse  
> water.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.=
jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.=
jpg

Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the =

minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). On the page 93 =

detail, note the fur lined cloak and what appears =

to be buttons down the front bodice (buttons are =

shown along the sleeves of the GFD underneath in =

both images). Some form of closure would be =

required on both, given the high neckline. In =

both surcotes are what appear to be slits for =

hands and a full gore set into the front.

These are image details of the troubadour Castelloza extracted from
Lema=EEtre, Jean-Loup ; Francoise Vielliard . =

Portraits de troubadours: initiales des =

chansonniers provencaux I & K (Paris, BNF, ms. =

Fr. 854 et 12473). Ussel: Musee du pays d'Ussel, =

2006. ISBN:2903920354 9782903920357 OCLC:68706473
http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/68706473

There are 170 illuminated capitals containing =

portraits of troubadours. These are reproduced as =

full page illustrations from two manuscripts =

(probably both produced in Venice at the end of =

the 13thC). Most of these are of male =

troubadours, but there are a few other females as well.

Beth Matney =


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Do the fillets on the heads mean these troubadours were young girls? 
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> 

> Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting: 
> 
> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg 
> 
> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg 
> 
> Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the 
> minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). 
_______________________________________________
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores crispness? Is
> it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or something more
> interesting?

The exact opposite. Soaps, detergents, and other things of the kind,
are almost always basic, except for some very specific products made
for specific purposes (washing sheep, for example). The problem with
bases is that they attack animal fibers (dissolve them, in fact -
which is why wool and silk - as well as human skin and hair - dissolve
in bleach). Of course, soaps and detergents are far from being as
basic as bleach, so the damage is minor. Silk, being an animal
"fiber", is attacked by the high (basic) pH. Lowering (acidifying) the
pH, neutralizes this undesirable effect, so to speak.
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Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography, 
of Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly unconventional 
thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have 
thought she would have worn?

Jean

lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:
> Do the fillets on the heads mean these troubadours were young girls? 
> Lauren
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> 
>
>   
>> Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting: 
>>
>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg 
>>
>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg 
>>
>> Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the 
>> minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). 
>>     
> _______________________________________________
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>   
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Sounds like she just wrote base when she meant acid (in the vinegar)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta

> An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores crispness? Is
> it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or something more
> interesting?

The exact opposite. Soaps, detergents, and other things of the kind,
are almost always basic, except for some very specific products made
for specific purposes (washing sheep, for example). The problem with
bases is that they attack animal fibers (dissolve them, in fact -
which is why wool and silk - as well as human skin and hair - dissolve
in bleach). Of course, soaps and detergents are far from being as
basic as bleach, so the damage is minor. Silk, being an animal
"fiber", is attacked by the high (basic) pH. Lowering (acidifying) the
pH, neutralizes this undesirable effect, so to speak.
_______________________________________________
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Hi, Patty,
Thanks for having faith in me! I did mis-speak -- I meant to call vinegar an acid and soap a base. Audrey-- thank you for the explanation. I didn't think of soaps "attacking" animal fibers, but that makes sense. 
Thanks again to you both!
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu> 

> Sounds like she just wrote base when she meant acid (in the vinegar) 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf 
> Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin 
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:29 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta 
> 
> > An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores crispness? Is 
> > it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or something more 
> > interesting? 
> 
> The exact opposite. Soaps, detergents, and other things of the kind, 
> are almost always basic, except for some very specific products made 
> for specific purposes (washing sheep, for example). The problem with 
> bases is that they attack animal fibers (dissolve them, in fact - 
> which is why wool and silk - as well as human skin and hair - dissolve 
> in bleach). Of course, soaps and detergents are far from being as 
> basic as bleach, so the damage is minor. Silk, being an animal 
> "fiber", is attacked by the high (basic) pH. Lowering (acidifying) the 
> pH, neutralizes this undesirable effect, so to speak. 
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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 14:01:27 -0500
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Having often been amazed at the things that come out of my keyboard unbidden, I understood right away.

P.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of lauren.walker@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta

Hi, Patty,
Thanks for having faith in me! I did mis-speak --
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Unmarried maidens in the Maciejowski Bible wear fillets and their hair 
down--I can't at the moment bring any other examples to mind without 
the library being to hand, though. I *would*, however, like to see more 
manuscripts from the same time and similar places to compare before I feel 
comfortable declaring this an actual historical representation of a 
garment. Otherwise, the only assumption we can make is that this garment 
is what the illuminator(s) of this particular manuscript thought that 
Castelloza would have worn. And we won't even go into the Spanish 
weirdness, which is an entire 'nother topic all on its own. :-)

Jen

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008, Anne wrote:

> Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography, of 
> Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly unconventional thing 
> for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have thought she 
> would have worn?
>
> Jean
>
> lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:
>> Do the fillets on the heads mean these troubadours were young girls? Lauren
>> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>> http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
>> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Beth and Bob Matney 
>> <bmatney@alltel.net>
>> 
>>> Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting: 
>>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg 
>>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg 
>>> Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the minimal headcovering (a 
>>> ribbon?).
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It is interesting that all of the women's portraits of both 
manuscripts (the few that were there) show this. Much more variation 
in headgear in the men's portraits. Informal settings? Maybe to show 
an "unconventional" lifestyle? Hippies of the 13th C?

Beth

>Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:31:38 +0000
>From: Anne <anne.montgomerie@googlemail.com>
>
>Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography,
>of Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly unconventional
>thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have
>thought she would have worn?
>
>Jean

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I was just thinking that very thing. Sort of romanticizing this apparently
"Bohemian" (in the hippy sense) woman.

On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>wrote:

> It is interesting that all of the women's portraits of both manuscripts
> (the few that were there) show this. Much more variation in headgear in the
> men's portraits. Informal settings? Maybe to show an "unconventional"
> lifestyle? Hippies of the 13th C?
>
> Beth
>
>  Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:31:38 +0000
>> From: Anne <anne.montgomerie@googlemail.com>
>>
>> Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography,
>> of Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly unconventional
>> thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have
>> thought she would have worn?
>>
>> Jean
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
favorite online bookseller
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Uh-oh. Whenever I let slip that I think anything might be evidence of the existence of unconventional persons in any time period before the 19th century, I know that shortly I will get shot down for it. You guys better duck! 
;-)
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> 

> I was just thinking that very thing. Sort of romanticizing this apparently 
> "Bohemian" (in the hippy sense) woman. 
> 
> On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: 
> 
> > It is interesting that all of the women's portraits of both manuscripts 
> > (the few that were there) show this. Much more variation in headgear in the 
> > men's portraits. Informal settings? Maybe to show an "unconventional" 
> > lifestyle? Hippies of the 13th C? 
> > 
> > Beth 
> > 
> > Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:31:38 +0000 
> >> From: Anne 
> >> 
> >> Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography, 
> >> of Castelloza says she was married. But it was a fairly unconventional 
> >> thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have 
> >> thought she would have worn? 
> >> 
> >> Jean 
> >> 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Maggie Secara 
> ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 
> ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 
> Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your 
> favorite online bookseller 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Hi,
Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed every day and leave the house. Sigh. 
The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own, independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem  to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any suggestions? 

Thank you. 
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net 
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You might look for petite sizes. They are made for persons with shorter
torsos.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of lauren.walker@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 3:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question


Hi,
Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much
more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse
than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years
that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed
every day and leave the house. Sigh. 
The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that
are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to
hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own,
independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the
clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my
shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length
from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem
to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they
manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any
suggestions? 

Thank you. 
Lauren
lauren.walker@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 22:52:52 +0000
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Yeah, thank you. The petites are usually too short above the waist or too stingy in the bust. That's why I was hoping to be able to alter regular items instead. 
Thanks again.
Lauren

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net> 

> You might look for petite sizes. They are made for persons with shorter 
> torsos. 
> 
> Kim 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On 
> Behalf Of lauren.walker@comcast.net 
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 3:18 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question 
> 
> 
> Hi, 
> Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much 
> more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse 
> than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years 
> that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed 
> every day and leave the house. Sigh. 
> The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that 
> are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to 
> hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own, 
> independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the 
> clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my 
> shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length 
> from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem 
> to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they 
> manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any 
> suggestions? 
> 
> Thank you. 
> Lauren 
> lauren.walker@comcast.net 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses the late, great Medieval  
Women calendars. :(  I think I still have most of the ones I bought,  
though they're a bit big and awkward to store.

Methinks someone could probably make a tidy profit by doing somethng  
like that again!
>

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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On Nov 13, 2008, at 9:02 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the minimal headcovering  
> (a ribbon?). On the page 93 detail, note the fur lined cloak and  
> what appears to be buttons down the front bodice (buttons are shown  
> along the sleeves of the GFD underneath in both images). Some form  
> of closure would be required on both, given the high neckline. In  
> both surcotes are what appear to be slits for hands and a full gore  
> set into the front.


Late 13thc (1200s) I think is a bit early for anything that would  
really be characterized as a GFD (Gothic Fitted Dress). My  
understanding is that the trend from baggy, roomy tunics toward more  
closely fitted clothing has really just gotten started at this point,  
and that the only really close fit is in the lower sleeves (to  
probably over-generalize wildly). I actually think you can see in the  
first of the two illustrations that there is quite a bit of roominess  
still in the shoulders and upper sleeves of the blue garment worn  
under the red surcoat.

I wear clothing from this century often, so I like to explain that at  
this time there had begun to be a creeping trend toward a closer fit  
-- which began at the wrist, but by "my" era (1270s-1290s) it had  
only progressed as far as the elbow!

I then go on to summarize (humorously) Robin Netherton's theory of  
the evolution of the GFD by explaining that the "sinister" trend  
toward a closer fit* started at the wrist, crept up the arm, and then  
overtook the armhole (thus making a closer fit across the shoulders  
possible -- while still allowing you to move your arms). In  the next  
stage, a front opening with lacing was invented, which allows you to  
closely fit the rest of the torso down to the waist and hips, while  
still letting you get into and out of the dress (since you don't have  
to pull it on over your head any more!)

My own inclination is to start describing it as a Gothic Fitted Dress  
only when it gets to the point of closely fitting through the torso  
-- because that's where you start to see the interesting way the gown  
shapes and supports the body, which loose tunics certainly never did.

(*Granted, it's only a "sinister" trend if you follow the lead of  
some churchmen of the time and decry closely fitted clothing as too  
revealing and sinful!)
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 16:37:18 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4 - supportasse
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<giggle>
I've put the pictures on the Tudor tailor list already.  There will be
a how-to along in a bit.  T'warnt hard.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Tudor_Tailor_Reader/photos
If you're a member, look for the photo album named Cin's gowns or
somesuch.  The supportasse is the 1st 2 pics in the album.  I've since
covered the neck edge, but you can still see the wire work and solder
lines in these pics.
No, I dont think the original was soldiered, I just thought it was
easier for a novice wirebender.  I also thought the lightweight
tie-wires might snag my gown or ruff, so I went with a smoother
solution.

I've been in love with this supportasse for sometime, ever since a
friend brought back the Ghent Museum's costume catalog.  When I saw
the bigger pics in PoF4, well, Something had to be Done.

BTW, I just discovered your Compendium.  Lovely stuff and just enough
bite-side info for teatime.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Pictures, missy! Pictures at once!
>
> MaggiRos
>
> On Tue, Nov 11, 2008 at 3:44 PM, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I just finished making the 1590s copper wire supportasse as shown in
>> the book.  I'm the first one on my block to have one.  Fun!
>> --cin
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Or Sally Queen's costumes from museums calendars. I loved those. The
details! However, I'm one of the handful on this list who believes that the
clothes from as recently as the 1960s are historic. (and yes, I lived them.)
LynnD

On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:

> I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses the late, great Medieval Women
> calendars. :(  I think I still have most of the ones I bought, though
> they're a bit big and awkward to store.
>
> Methinks someone could probably make a tidy profit by doing somethng like
> that again!
>
>>
>>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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These are from two different manuscript copies (the BNE Ms. francais 
854 Chansonnier provencal "I" and the BNE Ms. francais 12473 
Chansonnier provencal "K".. from copies in France)... but I would 
also like to see additional. I have a copy of the Maciejowski Bible 
and am looking for other images. Suggestions?

Another set of images of the "A" manuscript has been recently 
published (this year), but I haven't been able to obtain a copy as 
yet. It is from a copy at the Vatican.

What other sources of manuscript images do we have for southern France?

Beth

>Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 13:03:31 -0600 (CST)
>From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
>
>Unmarried maidens in the Maciejowski Bible wear fillets and their hair
>down--I can't at the moment bring any other examples to mind without
>the library being to hand, though. I *would*, however, like to see more
>manuscripts from the same time and similar places to compare before I feel
>comfortable declaring this an actual historical representation of a
>garment. Otherwise, the only assumption we can make is that this garment
>is what the illuminator(s) of this particular manuscript thought that
>Castelloza would have worn. And we won't even go into the Spanish
>weirdness, which is an entire 'nother topic all on its own. :-)
>
>Jen

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Yes, I was a bit sloppy calling this a GFD. Sorry. Only the elbow to 
wrist is closely fitted and buttoned. The rest is the standard loose 
'tunica' of rectilinear construction. You can see some seam evidence 
(where the arms are attached) in some of the images.

Beth

>Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 15:28:01 -0800
>From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>
>Late 13thc (1200s) I think is a bit early for anything that would
>really be characterized as a GFD (Gothic Fitted Dress).

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And we won't even go into the Spanish weirdness,
>which is an entire 'nother topic all on its own. :-)

My first quick impression on seeing the first picture was "Spanish".  They 
had a number of strange sideless surcoat variations.

Janet


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These are not young girls - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or 
biography, of Castelloza says she was married.  But it was a fairly 
unconventional thing for a woman to do, in a part of the world that 
tends to unusual fashions, and then the picture is from a different 
country, so who knows what they thought she might have worn?

Jean

lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:
> Do the fillets on the heads mean these troubadours were young girls? 
> Lauren
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> http://www.timetraveltextiles.com
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> 
>
>   
>> Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting: 
>>
>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg 
>>
>> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg 
>>
>> Note the cut of the "sideless surcote" and the 
>> minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). 
>>     
> _______________________________________________
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>   
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need costume calendar
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Oh I believe it. I'm just not happy about it ;-)

MaggiRos

On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 5:14 PM, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>wrote:

> Or Sally Queen's costumes from museums calendars. I loved those. The
> details! However, I'm one of the handful on this list who believes that the
> clothes from as recently as the 1960s are historic. (and yes, I lived
> them.)
> LynnD
>
> On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:
>
> > I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses the late, great Medieval Women
> > calendars. :(  I think I still have most of the ones I bought, though
> > they're a bit big and awkward to store.
> >
> > Methinks someone could probably make a tidy profit by doing somethng like
> > that again!
> >
> >>
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your
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Subject: [h-cost] Edwardian films
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Netflix has a DVD entitled "Electric Edwardians".  It's a collection of 
Edison films shot c. 1900-1906 in the UK.  You need to go into the 
set-up menu to turn on the commentary.  The films include everything 
from military dress, school children, community parades (in fine dress), 
factory workers, etc.  Quite interesting.

--Charlene


-- 
We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails.  -- Bertha Calloway
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Thanks, I just bought it.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Charlene Charette wrote:
> Netflix has a DVD entitled "Electric Edwardians".  It's a collection of 
> Edison films shot c. 1900-1906 in the UK.  You need to go into the 
> set-up menu to turn on the commentary.  The films include everything 
> from military dress, school children, community parades (in fine dress), 
> factory workers, etc.  Quite interesting.
> 
> --Charlene
> 
> 
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Why don't you sew for yourself? No time? Well, it would save you a lot of trouble if you would draft your own patterns. Or make someone else draft the slopers for you. 
I prefer pattern drafting rather than adjusting commercial patterns, even though my figure has the right proportions for commercial patterns, except for a short back length and wide shoulders. 

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 



      
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Hi,

I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style men's doublet, however you call it. The style seen on this picture:
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg

My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just folded into the waistband? 
I think they must be fixed somehow because the pleats are always so regular, but I'm absolutely unable to figure out where would be the fastening and how exactly would it work.

In this picture, it looks as the fastening was in the back, but it's very unclear to see.
http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5435/img7348wr5.jpg

I've searched some books on this topic but I never found a satisfying answer. Adrien Harmand talks about fixing the pleats, but as my French is so bad, I didn't figure out whether she said something about the fastening.

Thanks,

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Houppelande fastening question
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At 11:49 15/11/2008, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style 
>men's doublet, however you call it. The style seen on this picture:
>http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
>
>My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just 
>folded into the waistband?
>I think they must be fixed somehow because the pleats are always so 
>regular, but I'm absolutely unable to figure out where would be the 
>fastening and how exactly would it work.
>
>In this picture, it looks as the fastening was in the back, but it's 
>very unclear to see.
>http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5435/img7348wr5.jpg
>
>I've searched some books on this topic but I never found a 
>satisfying answer. Adrien Harmand talks about fixing the pleats, but 
>as my French is so bad, I didn't figure out whether she said 
>something about the fastening.

http://www.florentine-persona.com/Reviews/review_birbari.html

In this book there is a picture of a man lying on the ground, with 
his "houpplande", for want of a better description, lying open under 
him. It is clear that the pleats are stitched to a band which is at 
the waist, and which, in my opinion, appears to have no fastening. 
The belt worn over such a garment would probably be sufficient to 
hold it fastened.

However, it could be hooked closed, or tied with points. Although the 
book contains Italian pictures only, the garments are very similar, 
and I have used the internal belt system satisfactorily on them for 
Northern European clothing. I have not seen anything that fastened at 
the back, and I wonder if your picture is showing a seam, decorated 
with ?braid? rather than an opening?

Suzi

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Having made one following Cynthia's website, the pleats are NOT sewn 
down but that is the way they fall naturally. It was so cool to see the 
pleats form all by themselves, but you do need to adjust them by hand to 
keep them even and then belt the garment.

I'll be crazy and make another for myself.

Starr

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 11:49 15/11/2008, you wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style 
>> men's doublet, however you call it. The style seen on this picture:
>> http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
>>
>> My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just 
>> folded into the waistband?
>> I think they must be fixed somehow because the pleats are always so 
>> regular, but I'm absolutely unable to figure out where would be the 
>> fastening and how exactly would it work.
>>
>> In this picture, it looks as the fastening was in the back, but it's 
>> very unclear to see.
>> http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5435/img7348wr5.jpg
>>
>> I've searched some books on this topic but I never found a satisfying 
>> answer. Adrien Harmand talks about fixing the pleats, but as my 
>> French is so bad, I didn't figure out whether she said something 
>> about the fastening.
>
> http://www.florentine-persona.com/Reviews/review_birbari.html
>
> In this book there is a picture of a man lying on the ground, with his 
> "houpplande", for want of a better description, lying open under him. 
> It is clear that the pleats are stitched to a band which is at the 
> waist, and which, in my opinion, appears to have no fastening. The 
> belt worn over such a garment would probably be sufficient to hold it 
> fastened.
>
> However, it could be hooked closed, or tied with points. Although the 
> book contains Italian pictures only, the garments are very similar, 
> and I have used the internal belt system satisfactorily on them for 
> Northern European clothing. I have not seen anything that fastened at 
> the back, and I wonder if your picture is showing a seam, decorated 
> with ?braid? rather than an opening?
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Brangwyne wrote:
> Having made one following Cynthia's website, the pleats are NOT sewn 
> down but that is the way they fall naturally. It was so cool to see 
> the pleats form all by themselves, but you do need to adjust them by 
> hand to keep them even and then belt the garment.
Well, they do fall quite well without help, but I sewed them down for my 
husband's houp (the blue damask one.)

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels,
the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from
the library, so I will be watching them very soon.  However, preparatory to
watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this
era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.    Does
anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?

Oh, I will mostly making stuff for a woman, but she wants the men's
clothing, so i don't really care about the female side of the costumes.

thanks for any help or pointers that people on this list send, jordana
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hey all! I'm looking for some resources....

I have one ov Vogue's vintage patterns for a 1938 (? or so) evening gown,
which I am planning to make for an event in February. My husband would like
to "match" me, but I'm not so familiar with men's clothing during this time
period in general, nor am I knowledgeable about where to get patterns, etc.
I figure his is going to be the harder of the two (I made the gown before,
but lost too much weight, so now I need to remake). 

Any thoughts about where to look for patterns for men's suits in the 1930's?
Thanks!

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:16 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Sharp's Rifes Costumes
> 
> Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from 
> sharps rifels, the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I 
> do have them on order from the library, so I will be watching 
> them very soon.  However, preparatory to watching, I figured 
> that I would look at what costumers said about this
> era/this series as I have never done any costuming this 
> modern.    Does
> anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?
> 
> Oh, I will mostly making stuff for a woman, but she wants the 
> men's clothing, so i don't really care about the female side 
> of the costumes.
> 
> thanks for any help or pointers that people on this list 
> send, jordana _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
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you can always start with an "old movies night" to see the variations of what was worn...find a bunh of movies made in the 1930 that include ballroom scense...thelook for 

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Sun, 11/16/08, Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
From: Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, November 16, 2008, 4:42 PM

Hey all! I'm looking for some resources....

I have one ov Vogue's vintage patterns for a 1938 (? or so) evening gown,
which I am planning to make for an event in February. My husband would like
to "match" me, but I'm not so familiar with men's clothing
during this time
period in general, nor am I knowledgeable about where to get patterns, etc.
I figure his is going to be the harder of the two (I made the gown before,
but lost too much weight, so now I need to remake). 

Any thoughts about where to look for patterns for men's suits in the
1930's?
Thanks!

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:16 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Sharp's Rifes Costumes
> 
> Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from 
> sharps rifels, the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I 
> do have them on order from the library, so I will be watching 
> them very soon.  However, preparatory to watching, I figured 
> that I would look at what costumers said about this
> era/this series as I have never done any costuming this 
> modern.    Does
> anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?
> 
> Oh, I will mostly making stuff for a woman, but she wants the 
> men's clothing, so i don't really care about the female side 
> of the costumes.
> 
> thanks for any help or pointers that people on this list 
> send, jordana _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



      
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Nov 16 19:01:33 2008
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Jeeze, you are in luck, things have not changed that much for us blokes, 
especially for evening and formal wear.

You can use almost any really good suit/dinner suit pattern, perhaps use a 
shawl lapel (the long, curved ones) in satin. White jacket for summer wear, 
black for cooler months. One or two button fronts, no more than four buttons on 
the cuff.

For a more military look, you may with to try a mess jacket, a formal waist-
length jacket which is now mostly worn by snooty waiters and Scotsmen in kilts 
(oh, and me).

Don't scrimp on your structuring. Use good thickness of padding with horsehair 
in the structure and strong shoulder inserts.

A cumberbund can add a lot to the look.

Trouser waists were much higher, sitting on the acutal waist, so you will have 
to adjust for that, loose fit over the hips with at least two pleats (three 
will sit better). Belt and matching braces (button-on, not clip-on, work 
better).

If you are adding a bow tie, get the real thing and practise tying it rather 
than a clip-fastening type as have come into fashion. The real thing sits much 
better.

For tips on the overall silhouette, you can't go past old movies, easily 
accessable, made at the time,

-C.

> 
> I have one ov Vogue's vintage patterns for a 1938 (? or so) evening gown,
> which I am planning to make for an event in February. My husband would like
> to "match" me, but I'm not so familiar with men's clothing during this time



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Osprey Books cover this period in thier Elite military series although they 
tend to skim on real detail.

There are a lot of movies set during the 1800s to guide you, too. European 
uniforms were pretty static in this period with two main kinds: Frock coat and 
tunic. Within these, national and unit colours and accessories were the 
variations.

Although a few years out of your range, grab Zulu (1964) for some British army 
uniforms and Michael Caine in a sensational cape inspired by Bridgeman's satin 
cape,

-C.


> Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels,
> the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from
> the library, so I will be watching them very soon.  However, preparatory to
> watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this
> era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.    Does
> anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?



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Whether the pleats are sewn into place with a stay tape or not is entirely  a 
personal choice - it basically comes down to whether you can be bothered to  
pleat it, and have somebody check it / pleat the back for you every  time you 
put it on.
 
An internal stay tape is a perfectly valid option, as is pleating anew  with 
every wear.
 
The only time it wouldn't work, of course, is when you make one to pull  over 
the head with no fastening, as then it wouldn't go over your  shoulders.
 
I've never seen any evidence for a back fastening version (though naturally  
nobody can claim to have seen every piece of evidence out there - if they do  
they're either lying or deluded!!).  Although it's possible, I'd have  to 
agree with Suzi that in the picture you've linked to it looks as though it's  
decoration of some sort - possibly the same (fur??) trim that's at the  neckline 
(it seems to be the same colour).
 
As to the fastening method - either nothing, leaving it to be closed by the  
belt if the fabric is stiff enough to allow that (with some fabrics it will 
get  a bit floppy with no fastening).  Or hooks and eyes (remember to alternate  
them so they don't fall open continually), or buttons, or points....    If 
you're copying from a particular picture and you can't see any fastening then  
it's either hooks, or nothing.
 
 
 
In a message dated 15/11/2008 19:00:55 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  5
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 12:38:06 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke  <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Houppelande fastening  question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID:  <7.0.1.0.2.20081115123026.03c093c8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 11:49 15/11/2008, you  wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm about to do a short version of  houppelande or burgundian-style 
>men's doublet, however you call it.  The style seen on this  picture:
>http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
>
>My  question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just  
>folded into the waistband?
>I think they must be fixed somehow  because the pleats are always so 
>regular, but I'm absolutely unable to  figure out where would be the 
>fastening and how exactly would it  work.
>
>In this picture, it looks as the fastening was in the  back, but it's 
>very unclear to  see.
>http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5435/img7348wr5.jpg
>
>I've  searched some books on this topic but I never found a 
>satisfying  answer. Adrien Harmand talks about fixing the pleats, but 
>as my French  is so bad, I didn't figure out whether she said 
>something about the  fastening.

http://www.florentine-persona.com/Reviews/review_birbari.html

In  this book there is a picture of a man lying on the ground, with 
his  "houpplande", for want of a better description, lying open under 
him. It  is clear that the pleats are stitched to a band which is at 
the waist, and  which, in my opinion, appears to have no fastening. 
The belt worn over  such a garment would probably be sufficient to 
hold it  fastened.

However, it could be hooked closed, or tied with points.  Although the 
book contains Italian pictures only, the garments are very  similar, 
and I have used the internal belt system satisfactorily on them  for 
Northern European clothing. I have not seen anything that fastened at  
the back, and I wonder if your picture is showing a seam, decorated  
with ?braid? rather than an  opening?

Suzi





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Thanks for all these details! Any suggestions on a good pattern to start
with?

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
> stilskin@netspace.net.au
> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 6:01 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's
> 
> Jeeze, you are in luck, things have not changed that much for 
> us blokes, especially for evening and formal wear.
> 
> You can use almost any really good suit/dinner suit pattern, 
> perhaps use a shawl lapel (the long, curved ones) in satin. 
> White jacket for summer wear, black for cooler months. One or 
> two button fronts, no more than four buttons on the cuff.
> 
> For a more military look, you may with to try a mess jacket, 
> a formal waist- length jacket which is now mostly worn by 
> snooty waiters and Scotsmen in kilts (oh, and me).
> 
> Don't scrimp on your structuring. Use good thickness of 
> padding with horsehair in the structure and strong shoulder inserts.
> 
> A cumberbund can add a lot to the look.
> 
> Trouser waists were much higher, sitting on the acutal waist, 
> so you will have to adjust for that, loose fit over the hips 
> with at least two pleats (three will sit better). Belt and 
> matching braces (button-on, not clip-on, work better).
> 
> If you are adding a bow tie, get the real thing and practise 
> tying it rather than a clip-fastening type as have come into 
> fashion. The real thing sits much better.
> 
> For tips on the overall silhouette, you can't go past old 
> movies, easily accessable, made at the time,
> 
> -C.
> 
> > 
> > I have one ov Vogue's vintage patterns for a 1938 (? or so) evening 
> > gown, which I am planning to make for an event in February. 
> My husband 
> > would like to "match" me, but I'm not so familiar with 
> men's clothing 
> > during this time
> 
> 
> 
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This just showed up on one of my lists.  Thought it might be interesting to some of you....
 
http://www.vintagesewing.info/index.html
 
Laurie
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Evening clothes haven't changed too much really. I mean is it black tie or  
white tie? Rent some evening wear. Lapels are wide, waists nipped (and at their 
 real level), and pants are pleated, wide legged and cuffed. Is it a dinner?  
Dinner jackets have shawl collars, and I believe they can be white.... but 
there  are rules for these kind of things, like a white dinner jacket may only 
be  "right" for summer or warm climates. I'm not sure.
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> I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style men's 
doublet, however you call it. 
> The style seen on this picture:
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
> 
> My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just 
folded into the waistband? 

I've seen pictures that argue in both directions: some where the short 
houppelande is falling free from the shoulders with no pleats, and others 
where the pleats are held tight to the waist while the belt is much lower 
on the hips, and still others where the pleats aren't as neatly regular as 
in your picture, so they could just be held by the belt. I've got PDFs of 
class handouts I've done for men's burgundian fashion - I wanted to clean 
them up before posting them online, but if you e-mail me privately I'm 
happy to send the current drafts to you. (They're pretty long, but very 
picture-heavy :-))
        -sunny
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 >> Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels,
>> the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from
>> the library, so I will be watching them very soon.  However, preparatory to
>> watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this
>> era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.    Does
>> anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?

I used Green Hills 1830-50 and was terribly under-impressed. (Dont
bother looking, it was discountinued.)  Next time I'd draft my own
from scratch, but then I've done some formal tailoring.  This is not
an easy era or project.
For Sean Bean's field jacket, you might start with Rocking Horse Farm
RH205: Workman's Jacket or Stable Jacket
For something more formal, any Regency or Napoleonic men's tailcoat
will give you a good start.
Instead of using movies for costume "research", look at the real deal.
 There are many around.
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/nelson/viewObject.cfm?ID=UNI0024
Lotsa luck & do send us pictures,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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The event is "Reenactorfest", and they have a fancy dress dance/ball on
Saturday evening. The eras range from Roman Centurions to Vietnam with
everything else in between. I thought the 1930's evening gown would be fun,
and my hubby wants to make a matching couple. 

Would renting a modern tux be the best option? Any other suggestions are
quite welcome!!!

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:21 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's
> 
> Evening clothes haven't changed too much really. I mean is it 
> black tie or white tie? Rent some evening wear. Lapels are 
> wide, waists nipped (and at their  real level), and pants are 
> pleated, wide legged and cuffed. Is it a dinner?  
> Dinner jackets have shawl collars, and I believe they can be 
> white.... but there  are rules for these kind of things, like 
> a white dinner jacket may only be  "right" for summer or warm 
> climates. I'm not sure.
> **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, 
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In a message dated 11/17/2008 3:26:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lotsofteapots@charter.net writes:

Any  other suggestions are
quite welcome!!!



He could always be a gangster....not the hip hop kind.
 
That makes you his mall, y'know....
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I think that would be "moll". Rhymes with "doll"?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's

 
In a message dated 11/17/2008 3:26:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lotsofteapots@charter.net writes:

Any  other suggestions are
quite welcome!!!



He could always be a gangster....not the hip hop kind.
 
That makes you his mall, y'know....
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi
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In a message dated 11/17/2008 5:03:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
betsy@softwareinnovation.com writes:

I think  that would be "moll". Rhymes with "doll"?


***********
 
Isn't that what I typed?
 
Oops...
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Actually, I think that would make *me* the moll :) He'd just be a
gangster/mobster. Certainly an option. I'll have to ask him which way he
would like to go...

************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 4:06 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's
> 
>  
> In a message dated 11/17/2008 5:03:35 P.M. Eastern Standard 
> Time, betsy@softwareinnovation.com writes:
> 
> I think  that would be "moll". Rhymes with "doll"?
> 
> 
> ***********
>  
> Isn't that what I typed?
>  
> Oops...
> **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, 
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Hi All,

Has anyone got any firm research on how the Romano-British small animal
brooches were worn? Were they purely ornamental, as we would wear a brooch
these days, or were they also used, say, to hold a couple of folds of
clothing together? I want to buy some, but want to wear them properly.
Nothing I've seen (even in Allason-Jones' Women in Roman Britain, and in
museum books where they've gone into the construction in great depth) has
any details on how they were worn.

Ta,

Glenda.


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http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/1937chicagowool.htm

I found this doing a google search, which was silly as this website is in my bookmarks.

Kathy
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Hi Folks,

Friends and I recently watched the 1935 Midsummer Night's Dream, and 
have been puzzling over the construction of Titania's costume.  Does 
anyone have ideas?

Photos:
http://bp1.blogger.com/_zyFOBNA4Tys/RpF329zH5rI/AAAAAAAAARg/hbYpRYFNvdo/s1600-h/Anita+Louise+Fair+Titania.jpg

http://images.ulib.csuohio.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/shakespeare&CISOPTR=65&CISOBOX=1&REC=1

The shiny drape-y parts seem too light to be bugle beads strung to hang 
down and drape, yet not light enough to be cellophane strips.  I've been 
wondering if they might be strips of cut metal foil, like my parents' 
old real-metal Christmas Tree icicles: heavy, shiny, soft.

Google searches have not turned up any details, alas.

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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With a whole lotta hand work you could bead onto chiffon with strings of
bugle/rocaille beads and get something similar, I would think- reinforcement
for the stitching areas would be required, unless they found lightweight
beads? Or maybe strings/threads of a lame'-like quality? Just guessing from
the two photos....

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:50 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?

Hi Folks,

Friends and I recently watched the 1935 Midsummer Night's Dream, and 
have been puzzling over the construction of Titania's costume.  Does 
anyone have ideas?

Photos:
http://bp1.blogger.com/_zyFOBNA4Tys/RpF329zH5rI/AAAAAAAAARg/hbYpRYFNvdo/s160
0-h/Anita+Louise+Fair+Titania.jpg

http://images.ulib.csuohio.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/shakespeare&CI
SOPTR=65&CISOBOX=1&REC=1

The shiny drape-y parts seem too light to be bugle beads strung to hang 
down and drape, yet not light enough to be cellophane strips.  I've been 
wondering if they might be strips of cut metal foil, like my parents' 
old real-metal Christmas Tree icicles: heavy, shiny, soft.

Google searches have not turned up any details, alas.

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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On 16 Nov 2008, J A Urbik wrote:

> Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels,
> the dvd series.  I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from
> the library, so I will be watching them very soon.  However, preparatory to
> watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this
> era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.    Does
> anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era?
> 
> Oh, I will mostly making stuff for a woman, but she wants the men's
> clothing, so i don't really care about the female side of the costumes.

Past Patterns has a Napoleonic Era Footsoldier's Jacket that's probably
what you want.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/040.html


Other sites that might be of interest are:

The Discriminating General:
http://www.militaryheritage.com/napoleon.htm

Royal Marine re-enactors:
http://home.comcast.net/~1812RoyalMarines/uniform.htm

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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It looks like iridescent chenille yarn to me. Such an effect would  
seem to be a logical outgrowth of the fringe mania earlier in the  
century. But it's early in the morning and I'm bleary-eyed, so I  
wouldn't go by me!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer


On Nov 17, 2008, at 8:49 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> Friends and I recently watched the 1935 Midsummer Night's Dream,  
> and have been puzzling over the construction of Titania's costume.   
> Does anyone have ideas?
>
> Photos:
> http://bp1.blogger.com/_zyFOBNA4Tys/RpF329zH5rI/AAAAAAAAARg/ 
> hbYpRYFNvdo/s1600-h/Anita+Louise+Fair+Titania.jpg
>
> http://images.ulib.csuohio.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/ 
> shakespeare&CISOPTR=65&CISOBOX=1&REC=1
>
> The shiny drape-y parts seem too light to be bugle beads strung to  
> hang down and drape, yet not light enough to be cellophane strips.   
> I've been wondering if they might be strips of cut metal foil, like  
> my parents' old real-metal Christmas Tree icicles: heavy, shiny, soft.
>
> Google searches have not turned up any details, alas.
>
> --
>
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
>
>  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
>
>       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Jordana,

Is your friend interested in the Rifle Brigade uniform as worn by Sharpe himself, or in men's costumes of the Napoleonic Wars period in general?

(To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in which most of the Sharpe books and films are set!)

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> It looks like iridescent chenille yarn to me. Such an effect would 
> seem to be a logical outgrowth of the fringe mania earlier in the 
> century. But it's early in the morning and I'm bleary-eyed, so I 
> wouldn't go by me!
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner 

Yeah, it does look like that in the stills, but it behaves rather oddly 
when in motion.

Found one clip online which shows the costume just a bit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGYghQtsumo&NR=1

At 1:57, she comes from the left.... sadly, that's only about 1 second 
of movement.

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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Yes, the stuff that Sharpe himself wore.  I think this might have to doo
with her taste in actors myself, but I don't think I can argue about that
particular actor :) .


On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 9:17 AM, Kate Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>wrote:

> Jordana,
>
> Is your friend interested in the Rifle Brigade uniform as worn by Sharpe
> himself, or in men's costumes of the Napoleonic Wars period in general?
>
> (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so
> it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in which most of
> the Sharpe books and films are set!)
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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At 16:47 18/11/2008, you wrote:
>Yes, the stuff that Sharpe himself wore.  I think this might have to doo
>with her taste in actors myself, but I don't think I can argue about that
>particular actor :) .
>

I suggest you try here.

http://www.napoleonicassociation.org/home/

Members have been involved as extras in filming the series, and the 
research you need may be here too - I don't have time to check myself.

Suzi

>On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 9:17 AM, Kate Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>wrote:
>
> > Jordana,
> >
> > Is your friend interested in the Rifle Brigade uniform as worn by Sharpe
> > himself, or in men's costumes of the Napoleonic Wars period in general?
> >
> > (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so
> > it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in 
> which most of
> > the Sharpe books and films are set!)
> >
> > Kate Bunting
> > Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
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Thanks, that is very cool.

On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 16:47 18/11/2008, you wrote:
>
>> Yes, the stuff that Sharpe himself wore.  I think this might have to doo
>> with her taste in actors myself, but I don't think I can argue about that
>> particular actor :) .
>>
>>
> I suggest you try here.
>
> http://www.napoleonicassociation.org/home/
>
> Members have been involved as extras in filming the series, and the
> research you need may be here too - I don't have time to check myself.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>  On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 9:17 AM, Kate Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk
>> >wrote:
>>
>> > Jordana,
>> >
>> > Is your friend interested in the Rifle Brigade uniform as worn by Sharpe
>> > himself, or in men's costumes of the Napoleonic Wars period in general?
>> >
>> > (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so
>> > it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in which
>> most of
>> > the Sharpe books and films are set!)
>> >
>> > Kate Bunting
>> > Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?
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http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi4100325401 




Try this clip for a bit more of the costume in motion
Anne









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It looks like rayon or silk chainette fringe with possibly metalic thread
interwoven. Or just rayon.
http://www.alibaba.com/buyofferdetail/100733037/Chainette_Fringe_By_The_Spoo
l.html
http://tinyurl.com/6rm8vd

-----Original Message-----

Yeah, it does look like that in the stills, but it behaves rather oddly when
in motion.

Found one clip online which shows the costume just a bit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGYghQtsumo&NR=1

At 1:57, she comes from the left.... sadly, that's only about 1 second
of movement.

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?
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At 19:19 18/11/2008, you wrote:
>It looks like rayon or silk chainette fringe with possibly metalic thread
>interwoven. Or just rayon.
>http://www.alibaba.com/buyofferdetail/100733037/Chainette_Fringe_By_The_Spoo
>l.html
>http://tinyurl.com/6rm8vd
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>Yeah, it does look like that in the stills, but it behaves rather oddly when
>in motion.
>
>Found one clip online which shows the costume just a bit:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGYghQtsumo&NR=1
>
>At 1:57, she comes from the left.... sadly, that's only about 1 second
>of movement.



I'm probably way off, but it looks like strips of cellophane to me - 
easy to cut fringe on the edges of a sheet of it, cut a hole it the 
top and wear it like a poncho - she's not still so it doesn't matter 
about accuracy of cutting.

Suzi 

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Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> I'm probably way off, but it looks like strips of cellophane to me - 
> easy to cut fringe on the edges of a sheet of it, cut a hole it the 
> top and wear it like a poncho - she's not still so it doesn't matter 
> about accuracy of cutting.

It does look like it, to be sure.  But it swings like something heavy, 
which is the puzzle.  Chainette with metal in it might do, but would it 
be shiny enough?  I don't think so.

Mind you, this is curiosity; I'm not planning on recreating the 
costume.  I was hoping the thing would have been in some exhibition 
somewhere, but if it ever was, no one has webbed it!

cv
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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 14:48:28 -0500
Thread-Topic: jazz color
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I'm currently reading a book which refers to "jazz color." Can anyone clue me in?

Thanks,
Patty
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Here are women fancy dancers from a 2008 powwow. Most of the shawls are
fringed with rayon chainette.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yeHdETgsT0

a closer look (2007)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EX7TVN0ch4E&feature=related

Rayon was called "faux silk" and was around in the 1930s.

-----Original Message-----
At 19:19 18/11/2008, you wrote:
>It looks like rayon or silk chainette fringe with possibly metalic thread
>interwoven. Or just rayon.
>http://www.alibaba.com/buyofferdetail/100733037/Chainette_Fringe_By_The_Spo
o
>l.html
>http://tinyurl.com/6rm8vd
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Found one clip online which shows the costume just a bit:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGYghQtsumo&NR=1
>
>At 1:57, she comes from the left.... sadly, that's only about 1 second
>of movement.



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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Jazz Color
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Thanks for your response, Penny. The book sounded pretty specific for "jazz" being a color, as in 'a jazz colored dress.' I couldn't imagine what that would be.
Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of penny@costumegallery.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 3:52 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color

Patty,

I haven't heard of a specific color called jazz before but in New Orleans the Mardi Gras color are used with the jazz funerals.  The Mardi Gras colors are gold (or bright yellow), purple and green.  These colors are used frequently with Dixieland or New Orleans style jazz music.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites for fashion, costume, and textile history

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On Nov 18, 2008, at 1:03 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Thanks for your response, Penny. The book sounded pretty specific  
> for "jazz" being a color, as in 'a jazz colored dress.' I couldn't  
> imagine what that would be.
> Patty

Let us know what book it's from. That may provide a more solid lead.

andy
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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Hi Andy,

It's just a mystery: Queen of the Flowers : a Phryne Fisher mystery by Kerry Greenwood. Most of the 1920s background seems fairly accurate, as far as I can tell.

Patty

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From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley [attrembl@bovil.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 4:47 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color

On Nov 18, 2008, at 1:03 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

> Thanks for your response, Penny. The book sounded pretty specific
> for "jazz" being a color, as in 'a jazz colored dress.' I couldn't
> imagine what that would be.
> Patty

Let us know what book it's from. That may provide a more solid lead.

andy
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I am sure have heard of certain colours used in clothing such as zoot suits 
referred to in this way -- I cannot recall where/when -- colours such as 
yellow, green and others not usually associated with menswear of the early 20th 
century.

You could always hunt and email the author and ask.

As a side note, the Phryne Fisher Fan Club here in Melbourne used to take tea 
at the Windsor Hotel as described in the books. I wonder if they are still 
around,

-C.



> It's just a mystery: Queen of the Flowers : a Phryne Fisher mystery by Kerry
> Greenwood. Most of the 1920s background seems fairly accurate, as far as I
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> > > (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so
> > > it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in


Hmm, yes, but uniforms of the 1700-1800s did not move much, only some of the 
structuring changed. In fact British Admiralty uniforms of the 1930s would not 
have seemed too far out of place in the Regency period,

-C.


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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Thank you for that link!  Not my period of interest, but it looks  
like fun.  :-)

And on a totally different subject:  How was Florence?  I've been  
anxiously awaiting reports from the Janet Arnold conference....

Suzanne

>
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Date: November 18, 2008 10:56:41 AM CST
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
> ....
> I suggest you try here.
>
> http://www.napoleonicassociation.org/home/
>
> Members have been involved as extras in filming the series, and the  
> research you need may be here too - I don't have time to check myself.
>
> Suzi

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In a message dated 11/18/2008 2:44:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue@thibault.org writes:

Chainette with metal in it might do, but would it 
be shiny  enough?  I don't think so.



****************
 
It could be silk floss. That would be very shiny if the right color and lit  
the right way.... and we are in the studio where all aspects are controlled. 
I'd  be willing to go with a shiny silk floss with some kind of small beading 
for the  weight. It's got some weight as you say, but not enough to be solid  
beading.
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
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On 19 Nov 2008, stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:

> > > > (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so
> > > > it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in
> 
> 
> Hmm, yes, but uniforms of the 1700-1800s did not move much, only some of the 
> structuring changed. In fact British Admiralty uniforms of the 1930s would not 
> have seemed too far out of place in the Regency period,

Well, in the same way a Model-T Ford and a Delorean are both clearly cars
and not trucks or busses...

Uniforms of, say 1770 and 1810 looked very different.  True, after the 
Napoleonic Wars, the victorious British kept their army looking much
like that of Waterloo until Wellington died and the Crimean War forced 
a lot of changes, but even then the silouette changed in line with 
civilian fashions.

-- Chris Bertani
www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?
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Looks like long Rayon fringe.....


--- On Mon, 11/17/08, Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org> wrote:

From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Subject: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, November 17, 2008, 5:49 PM

Hi Folks,

Friends and I recently watched the 1935 Midsummer Night's Dream, and have
been puzzling over the construction of Titania's costume.  Does anyone have
ideas?

Photos:
http://bp1.blogger.com/_zyFOBNA4Tys/RpF329zH5rI/AAAAAAAAARg/hbYpRYFNvdo/s1600-h/Anita+Louise+Fair+Titania.jpg

http://images.ulib.csuohio.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/shakespeare&CISOPTR=65&CISOBOX=1&REC=1

The shiny drape-y parts seem too light to be bugle beads strung to hang down
and drape, yet not light enough to be cellophane strips.  I've been
wondering if they might be strips of cut metal foil, like my parents' old
real-metal Christmas Tree icicles: heavy, shiny, soft.

Google searches have not turned up any details, alas.

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


 "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

      "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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> 
> Uniforms of, say 1770 and 1810 looked very different.  True, after the
> Napoleonic Wars, the victorious British kept their army looking much
> like that of Waterloo until Wellington died and the Crimean War forced
> a lot of changes, but even then the silouette changed in line with
> civilian fashions.
> 

I wonder if anyone read the original post,

-C.


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I'm sorry, but this is complete bunkum!!!
 
I've been looking into uniforms more than usual lately, as I've been doing  
lots of work for an army museum.
 
Some aspects of the cut did not change, but the uniform patterns for  all 
sections of the british services changed drastically between 1800 and 1900,  and 
even more drastically after the turn of the century. (Obviously, army  and 
navy, because of course the raf didn't exist till 1918).  Also, some  aspects of 
cut appear not to have changed when you look at the uniform (such as  the 
underarm), when in reality it was completely different.
 
The first places to contact in a search for info on rifles uniforms (it's  
the 95th, btw, not to be confused with the 60th (Royal Americans) - extrememly  
similar uniforms, but different facings and some differences in the lacing)  
would be the national army museum, and the imperial war museum, which may have  
something.  From memory, the green howards museum may have something.
 
This part of the NA may be able to help you too -    
http://www.95thrifles.com/
 
Obviously, if you're actually looking for the uniforms that appear in the  tv 
shows, rather than a correct historical one, then the best thing to do is  
simply to get hold of lots of pictures of those uniforms, and watch the tv  
programs on dvd (so you can pause and zoom).  Not all of the uniforms in  the tv 
show were completely accurate (for example, the back of sharpe's dolman  in the 
iIndian ones is simply an abomination!).
 
If you need any other help or pointers, feel free to mail me off list -  I'll 
try to get back to you as quickly as possible, but there may be a brief  
delay because I get married at the end of next week, and I'm still making  my 
wedding dress  :o)
 
Debbie
 
 
 
In a message dated 19/11/2008 06:07:11 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hmm,  yes, but uniforms of the 1700-1800s did not move much, only some of the 
 
structuring changed. In fact British Admiralty uniforms of the 1930s would  
not 
have seemed too far out of place in the Regency  period,


 
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I am sure have heard of certain colours used in clothing such as zoot suits
referred to in this way -- I cannot recall where/when -- colours such as
yellow, green and others not usually associated with menswear of the early 20th
century.

You could always hunt and email the author and ask.

Good idea, thanks!

As a side note, the Phryne Fisher Fan Club here in Melbourne used to take tea
at the Windsor Hotel as described in the books. I wonder if they are still
around,


How neat - I hope so.
-C.


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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:28:52 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Jazz Coloured
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Hello list -
I went to the Phryne Fisher web site and looked in the glossary -- here is 
what the author says "Jazz Coloured" means:

      Jazz coloured pink, black and silver, green, black and gold. Usually 
in stripes.



source: http://www.phrynefisher.com/glossary.html

If you are interested in Phryne Fisher it may be worth your while to read 
the rest of the glossary.


>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:57:37 -0500
> From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <9303A5F18320A641ACBABBCE4DAB25CA128B1A2361@Orion.campus.muc.prv>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> I am sure have heard of certain colours used in clothing such as zoot 
> suits
> referred to in this way -- I cannot recall where/when -- colours such as
> yellow, green and others not usually associated with menswear of the early 
> 20th
> century.
>
> You could always hunt and email the author and ask.
>
> Good idea, thanks!
>
> As a side note, the Phryne Fisher Fan Club here in Melbourne used to take 
> tea
> at the Windsor Hotel as described in the books. I wonder if they are still
> around,
>
>
> How neat - I hope so.
> -C.
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Titania costume
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<It looks like rayon or silk chainette fringe with possibly metalic <thread
interwoven. Or just rayon.

I would bet that it's hand-strung bugle bead fringe, mounted on some sort of
base fabric that was itself beaded; that seems to be the only thing that
would account for the weight.

Richard in MI
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>  
> It could be silk floss.

I've been wondering if there might be silk floss *under* the very shiny 
heavier layer.

Today I was reading a book by the author that turned me onto this film 
in the first place; the (fiction) book talks about the prior theater 
production in the Hollywood Bowl, and mentions "fairies in cellophane." 

In her Acknowledgments she cites help from the curator of the Reinhardt 
Document Collection and the Director of the Hollywood Bowl Museum -- so 
she's done some research.  Possibly the cellophane is something they 
told her, and possibly the costumer continued the use of it for the film.

Conjecture, but might be reliable.

The book, should anyone be curious, is _Rude Mechanicals_ by Kage Baker

-- 

--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
<snip>
> Today I was reading a book by the author that turned me onto this film in 
> the first place; the (fiction) book talks about the prior theater 
> production in the Hollywood Bowl, and mentions "fairies in cellophane."
> In her Acknowledgments she cites help from the curator of the Reinhardt 
> Document Collection and the Director of the Hollywood Bowl Museum -- so 
> she's done some research.  Possibly the cellophane is something they told 
> her, and possibly the costumer continued the use of it for the film.
>
> Conjecture, but might be reliable.
>
> The book, should anyone be curious, is _Rude Mechanicals_ by Kage Baker

Back when I was making belly dance costumes, I used a trim that was a very 
narrow openwork gimp, with colored metallic cellophane woven in and out of 
the openwork.  It came in every color of the rainbow and, if weighted by a 
paillette or bead at the end of each strand, imitated much more expensive 
beaded fringe very well, at least, at stage distance.

Melusine. 

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Hello -

I'm trying to gather materials to make an 18th century gown. Does anyone 
know where I can find fly fringe? It's the type of trim on this gown, 
though hard to see:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O74093


Also, I'm working on a semi-replica of this gown:
http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M982.20.1&section=196
I found some of this trim at the local Joanns but can't decide if it is 
workable for the trim on this gown. The trim on the hem looks like it is 
stitched on but the trim on the bodice looks like it is thread work. 
Stitch it well down on top of ribbon or what. Ideas?
http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Product/66/00416/00416.aspx

Any help appreciated!

- Hope

-------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
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At 20:23 19/11/2008, you wrote:
>Hello -
>
>I'm trying to gather materials to make an 18th century gown. Does 
>anyone know where I can find fly fringe? It's the type of trim on 
>this gown, though hard to see:
>http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O74093

This is similar, but not as "fluffy" as real fly trim. 
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Braids!6044

These are very effective at a couple of feet away.

http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Braids!6019
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Braids!6018
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/default.aspx


>Also, I'm working on a semi-replica of this gown:
>http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M982.20.1&section=196
>I found some of this trim at the local Joanns but can't decide if it 
>is workable for the trim on this gown. The trim on the hem looks 
>like it is stitched on but the trim on the bodice looks like it is 
>thread work. Stitch it well down on top of ribbon or what. Ideas?

The description says bobbin lace and chenille embroidery. Your gimp 
trim http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Product/66/00416/00416.aspx
>"feels" too solid and shiny to me - especially if it's the same as 
>some I have. It is much more Victorian in style to my mind.

Here is chenille trim - irritating, as it wasn't there when I was 
looking earlier in the year.

http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Braids!225

Suzi

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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:32:05 -0500
Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Jazz Coloured
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Thanks! I had no idea that there was such a place.



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:29 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Jazz Coloured

Hello list -
I went to the Phryne Fisher web site and looked in the glossary -- here is
what the author says "Jazz Coloured" means:

      Jazz coloured pink, black and silver, green, black and gold. Usually
in stripes.



source: http://www.phrynefisher.com/glossary.html

If you are interested in Phryne Fisher it may be worth your while to read
the rest of the glossary.

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Try: 
Passamaneria Toscana in Florence , Italy
They have 2 rooms, filled floor to ceiling with trims of all types. (at the
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 12r) They have 3 locations. I just about died when I went
there. And of course, I was new to period costuming, so didn't know what was
period correct or not, so didn't buy much. (sigh)
www.ptfsrl.com
They don't sell the trims online, only finished pillows and tapestries, but
you could try contacting them. 
Phone 005 214 670 (Italy, so probably have to do international code first)
Fax #39-055 239 63 89

I went in 2002, so I'm not sure the fax number is still correct. But they
have contact info on their website.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 12:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th

Hello -

I'm trying to gather materials to make an 18th century gown. Does anyone
know where I can find fly fringe? It's the type of trim on this gown, though
hard to see:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O74093


Also, I'm working on a semi-replica of this gown:
http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M982.20.1&section=196
I found some of this trim at the local Joanns but can't decide if it is
workable for the trim on this gown. The trim on the hem looks like it is
stitched on but the trim on the bodice looks like it is thread work. 
Stitch it well down on top of ribbon or what. Ideas?
http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Product/66/00416/00416.aspx

Any help appreciated!

- Hope

-------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was wonderful.
They told me they will do mail order.  Their email is
valmar@valmar-florence.com  and the website is www.valmar-florence.com   I
sure smoked my poor old Visa there :) 

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:23 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th

Try: 
Passamaneria Toscana in Florence , Italy
They have 2 rooms, filled floor to ceiling with trims of all types. (at the
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 12r) They have 3 locations. I just about died when I went
there. And of course, I was new to period costuming, so didn't know what was
period correct or not, so didn't buy much. (sigh)
www.ptfsrl.com
They don't sell the trims online, only finished pillows and tapestries, but
you could try contacting them. 
Phone 005 214 670 (Italy, so probably have to do international code first)
Fax #39-055 239 63 89

I went in 2002, so I'm not sure the fax number is still correct. But they
have contact info on their website.


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In a message dated 19/11/2008 10:10:43 GMT Standard Time, Debloughcostumes  
writes:

>From  memory, the green howards museum may have something.


Green Jackets, not Howards (duh! - s'what I get for watching telly on the  
beeb website & typing at the same time!)
 
And ps - apologies - just noticed the title didn't get through, even  though 
I changed it.
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I am looking for a metallic gold fringe about 1.25" long that would  
have been used on a gown in 1812. I'm also looking for a matching gold  
braid about 1/8" wide.
If the gown was made in the UK would this trim be silk or cotton?
Bye, Aylwen

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent from my iPhone 0409817623


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I second the recommendation for this place!  They have real silver  
metal trim (you can see some of the older pieces tarnishing) for  
fairly reasonable prices and were very helpful to me.

Melanie Schuessler

On Nov 19, 2008, at 10:59 PM, Anne Moeller wrote:

> I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was  
> wonderful.
> They told me they will do mail order.  Their email is
> valmar@valmar-florence.com  and the website is www.valmar- 
> florence.com   I
> sure smoked my poor old Visa there :)
>
> Anne
>
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At 03:59 20/11/2008, you wrote:
>I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was wonderful.
>They told me they will do mail order.  Their email is
>valmar@valmar-florence.com  and the website is www.valmar-florence.com   I
>sure smoked my poor old Visa there :)
>
>Anne

I can't get into the site, past the home page. Am I doing something 
wrong - I am trying to open the page that appears to be the catalogue page?

Suzi

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At 11:55 20/11/2008, you wrote:
>I am looking for a metallic gold fringe about 1.25" long that would
>have been used on a gown in 1812. I'm also looking for a matching gold
>braid about 1/8" wide.
>If the gown was made in the UK would this trim be silk or cotton?
>Bye, Aylwen

In all probability it would have been "gold" fringe. Gold and silver 
thread was used for embroidery, usually a flat strip wound round a 
core of silk, often yellow/gold in colour. Gold and silver bullion 
was used to make fringe, and as far as I know there is no reason to 
suppose that this would not have been used on a dress of 1812.

Suzi

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From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Thanks Suzie. What would you recommend be used as a substitute today?  
I am making a reproduction gown to bring to London with me next year.

Bye, Aylwen

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent from my iPhone 0409817623



On 21/11/2008, at 6:20 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 11:55 20/11/2008, you wrote:
>> I am looking for a metallic gold fringe about 1.25" long that would
>> have been used on a gown in 1812. I'm also looking for a matching  
>> gold
>> braid about 1/8" wide.
>> If the gown was made in the UK would this trim be silk or cotton?
>> Bye, Aylwen
>
> In all probability it would have been "gold" fringe. Gold and silver  
> thread was used for embroidery, usually a flat strip wound round a  
> core of silk, often yellow/gold in colour. Gold and silver bullion  
> was used to make fringe, and as far as I know there is no reason to  
> suppose that this would not have been used on a dress of 1812.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Suzi: You can still find bullion braid and fringe from certain suppliers.? It's used a lot in theatrical costumes and would look spectacular on your dress.? Costume houses or theatre groups in the UK?could probably help you find a source there.? Sometimes military supply?companies also carry it.


Cheryl Odom

-----Original Message-----
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:20 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim question



At 11:55 20/11/2008, you wrote:?
>I am looking for a metallic gold fringe about 1.25" long that would?
>have been used on a gown in 1812. I'm also looking for a matching gold?
>braid about 1/8" wide.?
>If the gown was made in the UK would this trim be silk or cotton??
>Bye, Aylwen?
?
In all probability it would have been "gold" fringe. Gold and silver thread was used for embroidery, usually a flat strip wound round a core of silk, often yellow/gold in colour. Gold and silver bullion was used to make fringe, and as far as I know there is no reason to suppose that this would not have been used on a dress of 1812.?
?
Suzi?
?
_______________________________________________?
h-costume mailing list?
h-costume@mail.indra.com?
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume?

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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 12 
> Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 08:36:38 -0500 
> From: Melanie Schuessler 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Message-ID: <2DCACF25-5223-404F-9F14-046209417EB8@faucet.net> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed 
> 
> I second the recommendation for this place! They have real silver 
> metal trim (you can see some of the older pieces tarnishing) for 
> fairly reasonable prices and were very helpful to me. 
> 
> Melanie Schuessler 
> 
> On Nov 19, 2008, at 10:59 PM, Anne Moeller wrote: 
> 
> > I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was 
> > wonderful. 
> > They told me they will do mail order. Their email is 
> > valmar@valmar-florence.com and the website is www.valmar- 
> > florence.com I 
> > sure smoked my poor old Visa there :) 
> > 
> > Anne 
> > 
> 
> ------------------------


Anyoone besides me have trouble opening the catalog at this website?


As far as a domestic source of fly fringe, rotsa ruck!  If you want to make a great many 18th century enthusiasts happy, start a business making it. 

Hallie Larkin at the Sign of athe Golden Scissors has put together a DIY fly fringe kit:

http://www.southcoasthistorical.org/Millinery%20Shop.htm

Jane in No VA
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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At 20:53 20/11/2008, you wrote:
>Suzi: You can still find bullion braid and fringe from certain 
>suppliers.? It's used a lot in theatrical costumes and would look 
>spectacular on your dress.? Costume houses or theatre groups in the 
>UK?could probably help you find a source there.? Sometimes military 
>supply?companies also carry it.

Cheryl

I think you have misunderstood. Aylwen, the original poster of this 
query, lives in Australia, and doesn't have access herself to braid 
shops in London which I can visit. I know about braids and bullion, 
as I have bought them here in England for years for my costume making business.

Unfortunately I am currently 6 weeks behind with my current work, 
with an ongoing medical problem, so cannot volunteer my services as a 
buyer. You will find a list of English braid and trim suppliers on my web site.


http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php  

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Yeah, I get location, and staff, but the rest comes up with an error
message. Rats! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jane Pease
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 1:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 418



> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 08:36:38 -0500
> From: Melanie Schuessler
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th
> To: Historical Costume
> Message-ID: <2DCACF25-5223-404F-9F14-046209417EB8@faucet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> 
> I second the recommendation for this place! They have real silver 
> metal trim (you can see some of the older pieces tarnishing) for 
> fairly reasonable prices and were very helpful to me.
> 
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> On Nov 19, 2008, at 10:59 PM, Anne Moeller wrote: 
> 
> > I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was 
> > wonderful.
> > They told me they will do mail order. Their email is 
> > valmar@valmar-florence.com and the website is www.valmar- 
> > florence.com I sure smoked my poor old Visa there :)
> > 
> > Anne
> > 
> 
> ------------------------


Anyoone besides me have trouble opening the catalog at this website?


As far as a domestic source of fly fringe, rotsa ruck!  If you want to make
a great many 18th century enthusiasts happy, start a business making it. 

Hallie Larkin at the Sign of athe Golden Scissors has put together a DIY fly
fringe kit:

http://www.southcoasthistorical.org/Millinery%20Shop.htm

Jane in No VA
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Nov 20 21:01:31 2008
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Hey all,

My hubby found this, and thought to pass it on.  WOW is all I can say.

Genie


>Subject: Small-scale clothing
>
>This might be of interest to some of the folks on the costuming 
>list.  Go here:
>
><http://www.coraline.com/>http://www.coraline.com/
>
>and enter the key:  sweaterxxs




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	<4924701A.6030008@thibault.org><492475D2.8050207@uvm.edu><B73D029692644593AC8579F2BD1025F9@bobfamilyroom><115BBDDF17A64EE1BAE7188A14209502@ANNESCOMPUTER>
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No, you are not doing anything wrong.  I am not able to get there either but
this is the address on their business card.  Maybe they are not completely
up and running.

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 2:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th

At 03:59 20/11/2008, you wrote:
>I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was wonderful.
>They told me they will do mail order.  Their email is
>valmar@valmar-florence.com  and the website is www.valmar-florence.com   I
>sure smoked my poor old Visa there :)
>
>Anne

I can't get into the site, past the home page. Am I doing something 
wrong - I am trying to open the page that appears to be the catalogue page?

Suzi

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The address seems to be correct. A couple of the pages are working, but not
the catalog.

MaggiRos

On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 6:22 PM, Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote:

> No, you are not doing anything wrong.  I am not able to get there either
> but
> this is the address on their business card.  Maybe they are not completely
> up and running.
>
> Anne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 2:22 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th
>
> At 03:59 20/11/2008, you wrote:
> >I went to Passamaneria Valmar in Florence last week and it was wonderful.
> >They told me they will do mail order.  Their email is
> >valmar@valmar-florence.com  and the website is www.valmar-florence.com
> I
> >sure smoked my poor old Visa there :)
> >
> >Anne
>
> I can't get into the site, past the home page. Am I doing something
> wrong - I am trying to open the page that appears to be the catalogue page?
>
>

-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on books available from Amazon.com
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At 06:48 21/11/2008, you wrote:
>G'Day all, Does anyone have any comments on the following books: 60 
>Civil War-Era Fashion Patterns by Kristina Seleshanko

AKA Kristina Harris - worth having

>Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh - worth having

>  Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield  - worth having

>After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles 
>by Frances Grimble and Deborah Kuhn

Probably worth having but not for me

>Nineteenth-Century Costume and Fashion by Herbert Norris and Oswald 
>Curtis - much of Norris's research is now considered out of date and 
>not reliable.



>I am interested in adding these and a few more later on to my 
>library and making a few items where patterns are present. Thanks Sidney

This is my personal opinion only, and others may disagree.

Suzi

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You took the words right out of my mouth.  Listen to Suzi, she is spot on.

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 3:19 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on books available from Amazon.com

At 06:48 21/11/2008, you wrote:
>G'Day all, Does anyone have any comments on the following books: 60 
>Civil War-Era Fashion Patterns by Kristina Seleshanko

AKA Kristina Harris - worth having

>Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh - worth having

>  Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield  - worth having

>After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles 
>by Frances Grimble and Deborah Kuhn

Probably worth having but not for me

>Nineteenth-Century Costume and Fashion by Herbert Norris and Oswald 
>Curtis - much of Norris's research is now considered out of date and 
>not reliable.



>I am interested in adding these and a few more later on to my 
>library and making a few items where patterns are present. Thanks Sidney

This is my personal opinion only, and others may disagree.

Suzi

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Genie Barrett wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> My hubby found this, and thought to pass it on.  WOW is all I can say.
> 
> Genie
> 
> 
>> Subject: Small-scale clothing
>>
>> This might be of interest to some of the folks on the costuming list.  
>> Go here:
>>
>> <http://www.coraline.com/>http://www.coraline.com/
>>
>> and enter the key:  sweaterxxs

Wow indeed.

Also of interest, this appears to be a promo for the upcoming movie version of 
Coraline, an absolutely brilliant children's novel by Neil Gaiman. (If you've 
never read it, I would strongly recommend the audiobook version, which 
captivated me on a very long car trip a few years ago.)

--Robin
been away from list mail for a while, and missed quite a few good threads!


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I read all the posts, of course, that is because i asked the orignal
question....



On Wed, Nov 19, 2008 at 3:52 AM,  <stilskin@netspace.net.au> wrote:
>>
>> Uniforms of, say 1770 and 1810 looked very different.  True, after the
>> Napoleonic Wars, the victorious British kept their army looking much
>> like that of Waterloo until Wellington died and the Crimean War forced
>> a lot of changes, but even then the silouette changed in line with
>> civilian fashions.
>>
>
> I wonder if anyone read the original post,
>
> -C.
>
>
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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I'm pleased to offer a 25% advance order discount on Five Rivers upcoming
book,  <http://www.5rivers.org/contents/en-ca/d86.html> Elephant's Breath &
London Smoke: Historical Colour Names, Definitions & Uses, by Deb Salisbury.
If ordering as a Christmas present, just send a note in the Comments section
of Five Rivers secure shopping cart, and I'll be sure to send along a note
to the email address you provide detailing the purchase and when it's
expected to arrive.

Elephant's Breath & London Smoke: Historical Colour Names, Definitions &
Uses

by Deb Salisbury

$25.95

ISBN 978-0-9739278-2-5 

7 x 10 Trade Paperback

Release date: spring 2009

 

I've known  <http://www.mantua-maker.com/> Deb Salisbury for nearly a
decade; she's a remarkable historical garment pattern maker, who, through
her extensive research, has compiled a considerable body of information.
Elephant's Breath & London Smoke is an indispensable tool for the historical
garment maven and researcher, covering colour names, definitions and uses
through primary sources from Elizabethan through Edwardian Eras, and will be
the first of three books on historical garment terms, fabrications and
fashion.

 

Regards,

Lorina Stephens

Five Rivers Chapmanry

micro-publisher

purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens

Now Available:  And the Angels Sang, by Lorina Stephens

                             Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens

                             Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens

Coming Soon: How to Write a Non-fiction Book in 60 Days, by Paul Lima

                        Elephant's Breath & London Smoke: Historical Colour
Names, Definitions & Uses, 

                              by Deb Salisbury

519-799-5577  <mailto:info@5rivers.org> info@5rivers.org -
<http://www.5rivers.org/> www.5rivers.org -
<http://5riversnews.blogspot.com/> http://5riversnews.blogspot.com

 

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Sid Young wrote:
>
> Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh
>   
Each chapter has a cursory overview of the period, followed by a 
selection of quotes from various sources which mention fashion or 
clothing of the time. B&W photos, scale drawings, contemporary 
engravings. The scale drawings would be useful for reproductions but 
there are no construction or finishing details noted. Very similar to 
the "Cut of Men's/Women's Clothes" books.

> Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield
>   

B&W line drawings and notes. Accurate, but still drawings, not patterns 
or construction diagrams. There are some measurements such as sleeve 
length or depth of a cuff, but not something I could reproduce an outfit 
from.



Dawn


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In a message dated 11/21/2008 7:27:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

Costume  in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield
>   

B&W  line drawings and notes. Accurate, but still drawings, not patterns 
or  construction diagrams. There are some measurements such as sleeve 
length  or depth of a cuff, but not something I could reproduce an outfit  
from.




Sorry I missed the original post.  While I agree with the above  assessment, 
I think "Costume in Detail" is a MUST HAVE for anyone who is halfway  serious 
into study of garments of this period.  They provide so many  details on the 
interior construction, plus line drawings of sources that you can  then track 
down elsewhere.
 
Ann Wass
**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, 
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com 
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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On Nov 21, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
> Wow indeed.
>
> Also of interest, this appears to be a promo for the upcoming movie  
> version of Coraline, an absolutely brilliant children's novel by  
> Neil Gaiman. (If you've never read it, I would strongly recommend  
> the audiobook version, which captivated me on a very long car trip  
> a few years ago.)

I would add that, while brilliant, this book is pretty creepy and not  
really suitable for young kids.

Looking forward to the movie!

Melanie Schuessler
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On Nov 21, 2008, at 8:54 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>
> Sorry I missed the original post.  While I agree with the above   
> assessment,
> I think "Costume in Detail" is a MUST HAVE for anyone who is  
> halfway  serious
> into study of garments of this period.  They provide so many   
> details on the
> interior construction, plus line drawings of sources that you can   
> then track
> down elsewhere.

I agree.  This book shows you the details of how things are fastened  
on the inside, which for some of these garments is a fairly intricate  
process, and as Ann notes, how things are put together--where the  
bones are, how the linings are put in, etc.  It's not a book of  
patterns and probably wouldn't help a beginner, but for someone who  
really wants to know how clothing was made in the past, this has some  
great information.  Bradfield doesn't always show you the specific  
details you want to see, and she might not include exactly the style  
you want from exactly the year you want, but what she does include is  
very valuable.

I'd also second a recommendation for Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.   
It's true that it does not include construction information and thus  
might not be helpful for a beginner.  But it does have scaled  
patterns taken from extant corsets that one can enlarge and re-size  
instead of starting from scratch, and the selection of dates and  
styles is pretty good.  I've used it many, many times.

I would not recommend spending money for anything Norris wrote, as he  
is extremely unreliable.

Melanie Schuessler
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In a message dated 11/21/2008 8:54:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

B&W  line drawings and notes. Accurate, but still drawings,  not patterns 
or  construction diagrams. There are some measurements  such as sleeve 
length  or depth of a cuff, but not something I could  reproduce an outfit  
from.




Sorry I missed the  original post.  While I agree with the above  assessment, 
I  think "Costume in Detail" is a MUST HAVE for anyone who is halfway   
serious 
into study of garments of this period.  They provide so  many  details on the 
interior construction, plus line drawings of  sources that you can  then 
track 
down  elsewhere.



*****************
 
Yes, I have never actually used the book to make a garment (but in  
conjunction with other books and patterns, you could)...but I find it good  "research" 
for preparing to work in a period. It's friendly in a way, easy to  absorb the 
info.
**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, 
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com 
today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)
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Subject: [h-cost] Mid-19th Century Clothing Workshops
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Please pardon the cross-post to several applicable lists!
 
We've opened registration for two workshop series related to women's mid-19th century clothing, 1855-1865.  Details and on-line registration are found at our site, linked in my signature.  March 26-28 I'll be in Tempe, Arizona; June 5-7 I'll be in Jacksonville, Florida.Regards,
Elizabeth Clark
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com 
Historic Clothing Tech Support at http://www.thesewingacademy.org
 
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Subject: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
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This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...

I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the spool first 
through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful hints' 
books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent knots!

Any thoughts?
Viv. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
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Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread one
way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the grain.

Going against the grain can damage the thread!

Arlys

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 -0000 "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
writes:
> This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
> 
> I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the 
> spool first 
> through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful 
> hints' 
> books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent 
> knots!
> 
> Any thoughts?
> Viv. 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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I don't know if it damages the thread, but I know that watching the
way the twist goes into the needle means there is less knotting and
frustration when I'm embroidering with silk.

alex

On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 4:07 PM, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
> Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread one
> way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the grain.
>
> Going against the grain can damage the thread!
>
> Arlys
>
> On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 -0000 "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
> writes:
>> This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
>>
>> I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the
>> spool first
>> through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful
>> hints'
>> books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent
>> knots!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>> Viv.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1aBnjXCzY3yijFTvczl70qOeFMS88BnzHO8Q88M6aA1Zru4/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
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At 23:11 23/11/2008, you wrote:
>I don't know if it damages the thread, but I know that watching the
>way the twist goes into the needle means there is less knotting and
>frustration when I'm embroidering with silk.
>
>alex
>
>On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 4:07 PM, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
> > Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread one
> > way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the grain.
> >
> > Going against the grain can damage the thread!
> >
> > Arlys
> >
> > On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 -0000 "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
> > writes:
> >> This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
> >>
> >> I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the
> >> spool first
> >> through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful
> >> hints'
> >> books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent
> >> knots!
> >>
> >> Any thoughts?
> >> Viv.

I have to say that I have tried both ways, and if the thread is going 
to knot, it knots, and neither way is any better! But then that's me 
and the thread I use - cotton, not polyester.

Suzi



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
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I do a lot of handwork and have found that there are so many factors involved - quality, fiber, weather, etc. - I just bypass the whole thing and coat my thread with beeswax. Gives strength to cheap thread and smooths fibers so there is less wear.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--


On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 -0000 "Viv Watkins" <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
writes:
This is not exactly historical but it is
about hand-sewing, so...
 I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the spool first through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful
hints' books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent
knots!

Any thoughts?
Viv.

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It weakens it, because what's really happening is micro-fraying when you
go against the grain.

Arlys

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 17:11:07 -0600 "Alexandria Doyle"
<garbaholic@gmail.com> writes:
> I don't know if it damages the thread, but I know that watching the
> way the twist goes into the needle means there is less knotting and
> frustration when I'm embroidering with silk.
> 
> alex
> 
> On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 4:07 PM, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> 
> wrote:
> > Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread 
> one
> > way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the 
> grain.
> >
> > Going against the grain can damage the thread!
> >
> > Arlys
> >
> > On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 -0000 "Viv Watkins" 
> <viv.watkins@virgin.net>
> > writes:
> >> This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
> >>
> >> I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the
> >> spool first
> >> through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful
> >> hints'
> >> books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent
> >> knots!
> >>
> >> Any thoughts?
> >> Viv.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo 
> search features.
> > 
>
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I've always believed the same as you as that's the way it's designed to feed
into a sewing machine. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Viv Watkins
Sent: Monday, 24 November 2008 8:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?

This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...

I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the spool first
through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful hints' 
books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent knots!

Any thoughts?
Viv. 

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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
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Spools come in different sizes; threads come in different thicknesses and 
textures; presumably there are different winding systems; sewing machines and 
hand sewers all have thier individual kinks...there are so many variables that 
I don't think it really matters,

-C.

one of those 'useful hints'
> books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent knots!
 Any thoughts?



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Nov 24 05:13:00 2008
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on books available from Amazon.com
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I've used costume in detail to make reproduction dresses.
 
Granted, it doesn't give you patterns on a plate in the way that Arnold and  
Waugh do, but it gives you the detail you needs to make a fairly accurate 
repro  when used in conjuction with a wider knowledge of pattern cutting and 
making up  techniques of the given date.
 
A fabulous book.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 02:12 AM 11/24/2008, you wrote:
>I've used costume in detail to make reproduction dresses.
>
>Granted, it doesn't give you patterns on a plate in the way that Arnold and
>Waugh do, but it gives you the detail you needs to make a fairly accurate
>repro  when used in conjuction with a wider knowledge of pattern cutting and
>making up  techniques of the given date.
>
>A fabulous book.

I agree with you.  Before commercially available historic patterns 
came in anywhere near my size (and were any good for historic 
reproductions), I had to use "Cut of Women's Clothes" and "Costume in 
Detail" to modify my sloper (from "The Costumers Handbook") to make 
my first dress for Sutter's Fort (1846).  Drafting up the pattern for 
that dress also let me find out just how short-waisted I am and why I 
can't find a semi-fitted jacket in my size.  I also used "Costume in 
Detail" to figure out the pattern for the first day cap I made.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Maggie wrote:
> Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
> needle. Who does that? I stick the end in the needle, pull the needle away
> while holding onto the thread, and when it's the length (doubled) I want, I
> cut it. Isn't that normal? 

I cut the thread before threading it. Otherwise the spool ends up on the 
floor and I have to chase it. :)


Dawn


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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
needle. Who does that? I stick the end in the needle, pull the needle away
while holding onto the thread, and when it's the length (doubled) I want, I
cut it. Isn't that normal? Does it it really make enough difference to
totally change the way I thread a needle?

Hmm, using a doubled thread, one of the two strands will always be going the
opposite direction to the other anyway. So which end you thread first
couldn't possibly matter.

MaggiRos

On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 9:30 PM, Elizabeth Walpole <
ewalpole@grapevine.com.au> wrote:

> I've always believed the same as you as that's the way it's designed to
> feed
> into a sewing machine.
>
>
>
-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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My handsewing threads are usually one stranded.  I only double up when
it's a particular need- such as buttons.

And I usually cut to my arm length, or so, then thread my needle.
It's the way my mom taught me, and her aunties taught her...
alex

On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 2:24 PM, Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com> wrote:
> Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
> needle. Who does that? I stick the end in the needle, pull the needle away
> while holding onto the thread, and when it's the length (doubled) I want, I
> cut it. Isn't that normal? Does it it really make enough difference to
> totally change the way I thread a needle?
>
> Hmm, using a doubled thread, one of the two strands will always be going the
> opposite direction to the other anyway. So which end you thread first
> couldn't possibly matter.
>
> MaggiRos
>
>

-- 
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you
know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood,
injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's
Friday..."  ;)
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> Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
> needle. Who does that?

Me.   I pull out a length, cut, then thread the needle.  The only hand 
sewing I do is buttons or the occasional hem.

Denise B 

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Wow, I had no idea. If I did that, the thread would be knotted up before I
ever got to the threading part.

MaggiRos
~still the girl who got s D in 7th grade Sewing

On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 1:53 PM, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:

>
>  Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
>> needle. Who does that?
>>
>
> Me.   I pull out a length, cut, then thread the needle.  The only hand
> sewing I do is buttons or the occasional hem.
>
> Denise B




-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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If I cut then thread, I tend to drop either the thread, the needle or the
spool. Threading first means that during most of the time, I only have to
hold on to two things. Maggie, it looks as if we're in the minority.
LynnD

On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 1:53 PM, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:

>
> Plus, I don't measure out and cut a length of thread and then thread the
>> needle. Who does that?
>>
>
> Me.   I pull out a length, cut, then thread the needle.  The only hand
> sewing I do is buttons or the occasional hem.
>
> Denise B
>  _______________________________________________
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In theory, it should be that you thread the end that comes off the spool  
first - although it does depend on the thread - in theory, if you compare the  
two ends one will be 'tulip shaped', and that's the end you should thread.
 
In reality I agree with Suzi - if it's going to knot, it's going to  knot!
 
Beeswax is the only thing I've ever used that's stopped it, and even then  
not completely.
 
I have found thought that if a length of thread knots more than once it's  
best to simply finish that piece and replace  it.


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That's what habit (or training) does. Everyone around me always cut off the thread first - I never thought to leave it on. It sounds much less conducive to tangling that way. I'll have to try it (when I actually unearth my sewing projects, that is ;-p)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 6:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?

Wow, I had no idea. If I did that, the thread would be knotted up before I
ever got to the threading part.

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I thought that some of the list members might be interested in this sale. >:-}

Joan

>To: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>From: "Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle" <ask@fabrics-store.com>
>Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 08:04:04 -0500
>
>Subject: Joan, Announcing Limited Time Sale on Light Weight 100% Linen!
>
>Dear Joan,
>Light weight 100% linen fabric "IL020" is now on Sale!
>
>IL020 - 3.5 ounces a yard 100% linen is one of the finest linen 
>fabrics available in the world.
>
>IL020, better known as Handkerchief linen, has an incredibly gentle 
>hand, is woven using fine staple threads and has very few slubs.
>
>The thread can be this fine without weakening the fabric because it 
>is made from long staple flax.
>
>IL020 linen fabric application is often seen in:
>    * Couture Women and Men Clothing;
>    * Reenactment Costumes;
>    * Embroidered Bedding;
>    * Christening Gowns and Altar Linens;
>    * Curtains;
>    * Sleepwear;
>
>The finesse of this easy in care, handkerchief linen makes it a 
>favorite among people who love luxurious, comfortable surroundings.
>
>For this week, only until Sunday November 30th, randomly selected 
>colors of IL020 are at an additional 10% off.
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMue&m=1fWkpWCFGXkFyH&b=HVG3_uQ1bPgoq4GV9oK0Og>Enter 
>here to go directly to the discounted light weight 100% linen and save 10%!
>
>Thank you and enjoy,
>
>Nikolai Karpushin
>Owner and President,
><http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMue&m=1fWkpWCFGXkFyH&b=HVG3_uQ1bPgoq4GV9oK0Og>Fabrics-store.com
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry seller on eBay
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In case you need more items to add to your holiday gift request ist:

www.alisonjuliencollection.com

This eBay seller specializes in very large real gem pendants, rings, 
etc. The  stones are eye clean, impressive, and well cut. The settings 
are not specifically historic looking, but they are simple and classic. 
The service and prices are fantastic.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Glove Collection
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A friend of mine found this on a Knitting list she frequents, I thought 
folks here would enjoy this as well:

http://2-minute-website.com/site/trustfund.trial/Spence-Collection-at-Bath-23390-23417


Sheridan P.


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My late aunt (born 1911) once saw me struggling with a knotted thread and told me that you should always thread the end that came off the spool. Since then I've always threaded my needle before cutting so as not to lose it. I still get knots, though!

Kate Bunting
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In some sets of instructions for knitting period stockings, you are told to "fold the heel flap in half". I'm a fairly experienced knitter, but I can't make sense of this. Can anyone advise? I assume it means to fold the flap edge-to-edge rather than to double it back on itself.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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Hi Kate,

      Good thing you have 17th century in your signature =97 that's the  =

period for your stockings, right?

      Ok so at the ankle, you're holding the stitches at the front  =

and knitting the heel flap. Then you have to form the part that cups  =

around the heel.

      Knit halfway across the heel flap.

      When you fold it in half, the "raw" edge (The part you just  =

knitted) should be touching itself. The fold is vertical.

      That "raw" edge is then finished/attached to itself with a 3- =

needle bindoff. Kitchener had not been invented yet, but some people  =

like to do that for a smoother join. Starting from the center (back  =

of the heel) join the two edges, ending at the bottom/underneath the  =

heel.

      You will end up with the heel flap shaped like a corner.   =

That's a "common heel." There are ways of shaping a little bit so  =

it's rounder instead of having that little point at the corner, but  =

the point is perfectly correct for 17thC.

      So you have this heel pocket, and the edge is all the side of  =

the knitting. You pick up stitches from that edge, and knit out  =

sideways (along with the stitches from the top of the ankle) to make  =

the foot.

      I was looking around on the web, I thought someone had stocking  =

instructions with illustrations of one in progress.

      I hope this clarifies it! You may also want to try the Historic  =

Knit list, or check out Ravelry.com for more resources.

      -Carol


On Nov 28, 2008, at 9:46 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

> In some sets of instructions for knitting period stockings, you are  =

> told to "fold the heel flap in half". I'm a fairly experienced  =

> knitter, but I can't make sense of this. Can anyone advise? I  =

> assume it means to fold the flap edge-to-edge rather than to double  =

> it back on itself.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor.
>
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Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone here collects pictures of women in armor? I'm thinking of making a suit for a doll, so "fantasy" or "Saintswear" is perfectly fine, from any European period. I know there are a couple of Roman de la Rose manuscripts that have pictures of a woman in armor, though I've never found out what her story is. Any others? 

And what would be a good book to use for a source for Gothic or Renaissance armor?

Thanks in advance,
Tea Rose
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At 08:54 29/11/2008, you wrote:
>How about good old Joan =

>http://www.allposters.com/View_HighZoomResPop.asp?apn=3D1869579&imgloc=3D1=
7-1741-MZX3D00Z.jpg&imgwidth=3D670&imgheight=3D894&sc=3DFalse&ct=3DIngres,%=
20Jean-Auguste-Dominique%20Mary%20Evans%20POD&cw=3D20&ch=3D20 =

>=E2=99=AB Chiara Francesca > -----Original =

>Message----- > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com =

>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] > On Behalf =

>Of tearoses@aol.com > Sent: Friday, November 28, =

>2008 10:43 PM > To: h-costume@indra.com > =

>Subject: [h-cost] Women in armor > > Hi all, > > =

>I was wondering if anyone here collects pictures =

>of women in armor? I'm > thinking of making a =

>suit for a doll, so "fantasy" or "Saintswear" =

>is > perfectly fine, from any European period. I =

>know there are a couple of > Roman de la Rose =

>manuscripts that have pictures of a woman in =

>armor, > though I've never found out what her =

>story is. Any others? > > And what would be a =

>good book to use for a source for Gothic or > =

>Renaissance armor? > > Thanks in advance, > Tea Rose >

This seems to default to "Allposters" - you have =

to type in "Joan of Arc" in the search box.

Suzi

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Hi,

This might be OT, but I really don't know where else to ask and I haven't found any reviews - my friend is a beginning to intermediate sewer, but she doesn't have any sewing machine except for a badly-working, loud Singer. She wants to take a step forward and buy a new machine. She would also dream of a serger, but buying two machines would take her out of her budget. 

I've just seen someone selling a brand new Toyota serger for $125!!
http://www.strickmaschine.de/machines/over/700-620.htm

I know Toyotas are not the top brand, but what do you think - would it be worth the price? Do you have any experience with this brand? Would you buy this serger and replace it perhaps later for a better machine, when your sewing skills would improve?

Thanks for advice,

Zuzana  


      
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At 11:28 29/11/2008, you wrote:
>Gentles of the Historic costume List, just for =

>the education of my House, who are still =

>muddling along making medieval garb and other =

>fabric items, using a collection of =

>fully-serviced, secondhand but older [i.e. - no =

>computers] domestic sewing machines,=C2  - =C2 would =

>any Gentle of the List explain to us [ and other =

>beginners similarly ignorant] what is the =

>difference between a serger and a "normal" =

>domestic machine; - and what are the advantages =

>of having a serger for use in the making of =

>replica historical fabric items? I have done an =

>internet search - but - due to my online =

>ineptitude, I have no doubt,=C2  - have not found =

>any answers we can readily understand. with =

>thanks for your clarifications, "Lord Matthew Baker", of the SCA-[UK]

A serger is what we in England call an =

overlocker. If you are making authentic method =

clothing you do not need one. It stitches over =

the edge of your fabric, usually cutting off any =

surplus fabric outside the stitch line and =

leaving a neat edge. You will find such an edge =

on most seams of most modern garments. The over =

edge stitch can also be done by hand, a more =

authentic solution for a period garment. The idea =

is no neaten the edge and prevent it from fraying.

Suzi

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-- On Sat, 29/11/08, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 11:28 29/11/2008, you wrote:

> Gentles of the Historic costume List, just for the education of my House,
who are still muddling along making medieval garb SNIPPED FOR BREVITY with thanks for your
clarifications, "Lord Matthew Baker", of the SCA-[UK]

A serger is what we in England call an overlocker. SNIPPED FOR BREVITY The
over edge stitch can also be done by hand, a more authentic solution for a
period garment. The idea is no neaten the edge and prevent it from fraying.

Suzi
THANKS - 
TYVM, Suzi
Season's greetings to you and yours,
Matthew

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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> I know Toyotas are not the top brand, but what do you think - would it be worth the price? Do you have any experience with this brand? Would you buy this serger and replace it perhaps later for a better machine, when your sewing skills would improve?

I suspect that if you look around you can find several machines from 
different makers in that price range. I know they are abundant here in 
the US.  The thing to do is sit down at the machine and do some test 
sewing to see if it works better than the one she currently has.

For most historical sewing you need only a straight stitch.


Dawn


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I have a Toyota I bought in the late '80's, early '90's. It's very basic and has been working fine for me. It is no more tempermental than the sergers I have used in costume shops.
 I dont know about the current amchines though.
 Susan
If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein

Hi,
This might be OT, but I really don't know where else to ask and I haven't found any 
reviews - my friend is a beginning to intermediate sewer, but she doesn't have any sewing 
machine except for a badly-working, loud Singer. She wants to take a step forward and buy 
a new machine. She would also dream of a serger, but buying two machines would take her 
out of her budget. 

I've just seen someone selling a brand new Toyota serger for $125!!
http://www.strickmaschine.de/machines/over/700-620.htm

I know Toyotas are not the top brand, but what do you think - would it be worth the 
price? Do you have any experience with this brand? Would you buy this serger and replace 
it perhaps later for a better machine, when your sewing skills would improve?

Thanks for advice,

Zuzana  



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--- On Sat, 11/29/08, julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<snip>
> what are the advantages of having a serger for use in the
> making of replica historical fabric items?
<snip>

Greetings Lord Matthew,

It took me many years to actually acquire a serger/overlocker for my historical costumes, which I ended up buying a low-end Brother for my simple needs. It works well for finishing edges, like I have for my skirts, since I don't always fully line my skirts, depending on fabric. I have one early 16th century linen camping dress where I hand sewed the bodice completely, but serged & machine stitched the skirt, since I found that I do not have the time or patience to hand sew long seams like on skirts. And since I wanted the dress for the heat of the summer, the skirts are not lined. I did hand sew the hem up (serged the edge, then turned once), and hand sewed the skirt to the edge of the bodice. The serged edges help to prevent the fraying that linen otherwise loves to do.

That said, I most often use a serger when making modern clothing or costumes for my kids, and it has helped speed up the finishing of edges before I sew the pieces together with my regular sewing machine. My daughters velvet dress is nicely finished for the most part, although I did forget to finish some parts, which need to be done now by hand.

So, in my limited experience, it works best as a time saving edge finisher when I am not concerned with 100% historically accurate costumes or I am making modern garments. It otherwise collects dust (thankfully it is usually covered). My main sewing machine is used a lot more.

Kimiko
(aka Joan Silvertoppe in the SCA)


      
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--- On Sat, 11/29/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
><snip> I haven't found any reviews - my friend is a
> beginning to intermediate sewer, but she doesn't have
> any sewing machine except for a badly-working, loud Singer.
> She wants to take a step forward and buy a new machine. She
> would also dream of a serger, but buying two machines would
> take her out of her budget. 
<snip>

I don't have any suggestion on the Toyota. I would suggest looking at this site for machine reviews.
http://sewing.patternreview.com/

However, if the machine she has right now is not working well for her, I would highly recommend that she look at upgrading her regular machine now, and get a simple serger at a later point. Sergers are nice for what they do, but they do not replace a good sewing machine. That is where I would invest some money, even for a good quality used machine.

Kimiko





      
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stockings query
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On Nov 28, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

> In some sets of instructions for knitting period stockings, you are  
> told to "fold the heel flap in half". I'm a fairly experienced  
> knitter, but I can't make sense of this. Can anyone advise? I  
> assume it means to fold the flap edge-to-edge rather than to double  
> it back on itself.


I actually teach beginning knitters this heel, because not only is it  
period for before 1600,  it's easy to see how it works. Getting a  
tube of knitting to turn through a right angle is pretty mysterious  
if you try to imagine how to do it.

If you'd like to see pictures, I have these:
http://chrisknit.blogspot.com/2007/12/pre-literate-stockings.html

There's also a link on that page to download the pattern I wrote.  
It's for worsted-weight yarn, so it makes rather a heavy stocking,  
but I wrote it that way because I wanted beginning stocking knitters  
to be able to finish something more quickly. If anyone else wants to  
try the pattern, BTW, I'd welcome "beta testers" and feedback. (So  
far, the main problem people seem to have is if they need to size it  
up for stouter legs. I can see I'm going to have to work on that....)

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Yeah, I didn't say that clear - she thought if the serger was for such a low price, she could buy both serger and a regular sewing machine. I think Janome has some cheap but quality machines - or she could get one old straight stitch machine - these are the best:-)

Zuzana


      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] -  sergers
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At 15:50 30/11/2008, you wrote:
>Many thanks to Suzi, Kimiko, and others of this =

>List who have clarified for my House and I just =

>what a "serger" does, and what use such a =

>machine might be for us in our"Third =

>Age"=C2  living-history hobby. From your comments =

>I suspect a serger might be a substantial =

>time-saver - since all of the garb we make is =

>only to "pass the 10-foot Rule" [" if it looks =

>OK from 10 feet away, that's good enough" - so =

>using a serger on interior seams sound good to =

>us],=C2  - we have so many projects we wish to =

>accomplish "in the limited time & budgets ofour =

>declining years" that we have given-up the idea =

>of trying for "museum-replica" quality in our =

>equipment. Tnhaks once again, =C2 "Matthew Baker" [aka Julian Wilson in 20=
08]

In that case, see if you can find a second hand =

industrial "Singer" or Jones" or "Bernina". They =

are sturdier that those made for the domestic =

market and although tricky to thread sometimes, =

seem to do a better job, in my opinion. I have a =

second hand 3 thread Singer industrial I bought =

over 20 years ago, and the only time it had to be =

fixed was when I sewed over a pin and threw the =

timing off and blunted the blade that cuts the =

fabric. Three threads gives you a finished edge, =

by the way, and is the basic minimum - in my =

opinion you really don't need anything with more =

threads, if all you want to do is finish edges.

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Sid Young" <sid.young@gmail.com>
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Suzi,

Just a point of note - If you are to make impeccably accurate costumes of a
pre-industrial period then there were no overlockers (sergers), but I would
still use it to make good quality clothing. :)

One function I find my overlocker is really useful for is rolled hems...
were rolled hems used on clothing prior to 1901?


Sidney

P.S. Thanks to all those who responded to my earlier email on costume books,
thanks, order going in for Christmas shortly.



On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 2:26 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 15:50 30/11/2008, you wrote:
>
>> Many thanks to Suzi, Kimiko, and others of this List who have clarified
>> for my House and I just what a "serger" does, and what use such a machine
>> might be for us in our"Third Age"=C2  living-history hobby. From your co=
mments
>> I suspect a serger might be a substantial time-saver - since all of the =
garb
>> we make is only to "pass the 10-foot Rule" [" if it looks OK from 10 feet
>> away, that's good enough" - so using a serger on interior seams sound go=
od
>> to us],=C2  - we have so many projects we wish to accomplish "in the lim=
ited
>> time & budgets ofour declining years" that we have given-up the idea of
>> trying for "museum-replica" quality in our equipment. Tnhaks once again,=
 =C2
>> "Matthew Baker" [aka Julian Wilson in 2008]
>>
>
> In that case, see if you can find a second hand industrial "Singer" or
> Jones" or "Bernina". They are sturdier that those made for the domestic
> market and although tricky to thread sometimes, seem to do a better job, =
in
> my opinion. I have a second hand 3 thread Singer industrial I bought over=
 20
> years ago, and the only time it had to be fixed was when I sewed over a p=
in
> and threw the timing off and blunted the blade that cuts the fabric. Three
> threads gives you a finished edge, by the way, and is the basic minimum -=
 in
> my opinion you really don't need anything with more threads, if all you w=
ant
> to do is finish edges.
>
>
> Suzi
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] - sergers
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At 21:21 30/11/2008, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>
>Just a point of note - If you are to make impeccably accurate costumes of a
>pre-industrial period then there were no overlockers (sergers), but I would
>still use it to make good quality clothing. :)

I did actually make that point in my comment "A serger is what we in 
England call an overlocker. If you are making authentic method 
clothing you do not need one. It stitches over the edge of your 
fabric, usually cutting off any surplus fabric outside the stitch 
line and leaving a neat edge. You will find such an edge on most 
seams of most modern garments. The over edge stitch can also be done 
by hand, a more authentic solution for a period garment. The idea is 
no neaten the edge and prevent it from fraying."

>One function I find my overlocker is really useful for is rolled hems

>were rolled hems used on clothing prior to 1901?

Not my overlocker - it simply overlocks - no fancy finishes.

My comments to the gentleman in Jersey were based on the fact that 
they do not have the time or the expertise to finish their costumes, 
which I believe are WOTR period, and he thought it would be useful, 
even though not historically accurate, to have one.

Suzi 

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--- On Sun, 11/30/08, Sid Young <sid.young@gmail.com> wrote:

> One function I find my overlocker is really useful for is
> rolled hems...
> were rolled hems used on clothing prior to 1901?
> 


Hand rolled hems have been seen in extant medieval garments, mostly on veils, I believe from the books I've read and what I retained from them. I am sure others more knowledgeable on this list could tell you exactly what garments had hand rolled hems.

Kimiko





      
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On Sunday 30 November 2008 6:51:07 pm Kimiko Small wrote:
> --- On Sun, 11/30/08, Sid Young <sid.young@gmail.com> wrote:
> > One function I find my overlocker is really useful for is
> > rolled hems...
> > were rolled hems used on clothing prior to 1901?
>
> Hand rolled hems have been seen in extant medieval garments, mostly on
> veils, I believe from the books I've read and what I retained from them. I
> am sure others more knowledgeable on this list could tell you exactly what
> garments had hand rolled hems.

That's right.  I remember a few rolled hems from the Viking era.  (Of course, 
those and the medieval examples were done by hand, not with 
sergers/overlockers.)  :-)


--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"The heresy of one age becomes the orthodoxy of the next."
--Helen Keller 


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julian wilson wrote:
> Gentles of the Historic costume List,
> just for the education of my House, who are still muddling along making medieval garb and other fabric items, using a collection of fully-serviced, secondhand but older [i.e. - no computers] domestic sewing machines,  - 
>  would any Gentle of the List explain to us [ and other beginners similarly ignorant] what is the difference between a serger and a "normal" domestic machine; - and what are the advantages of having a serger for use in the making of replica historical fabric items?
> I have done an internet search - but - due to my online ineptitude, I have no doubt,  - have not found any answers we can readily understand.
>
> with thanks for your clarifications,
> "Lord Matthew Baker", of the SCA-[UK]
>   

You've got some mostly good information from others on the list. A few 
years back I wrote an introductory article on sergers; it's still up at:
<http://tinyurl.com/3xpw2a>

The folks who talk about sergers not being appropriate for historical 
costume are short-sighted. They are entirely appropriate for early 20th 
century manufactured clothing recreation.

andy
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Subject: [h-cost] early 20th century serger use (was  sergers)
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--- On Sun, 11/30/08, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:

> The folks who talk about sergers not being appropriate for
> historical costume are short-sighted. They are entirely
> appropriate for early 20th century manufactured clothing
> recreation.
> 
> andy


Thank you Andy. I knew Lord Matthew, having noted that he was in the SCA, was looking for info appropriate for SCA use (pre-17th century).

Would you mind sharing what you know about how sergers were used for the early 20th century garments? I presume they were similar, but not the same as used today, or were they? I have this Edwardian coat I want to work on, but the directions with the pattern is rather scant on fully period techniques. I am still debating in my head how period, or how modern I want to be when working on it.

Thank you,

Kimiko





      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early 20th century serger use (was  sergers)
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> Would you mind sharing what you know about how sergers were used for the early 20th century garments? I presume they were similar, but not the same as used today, or were they? I have this Edwardian coat I want to work on, but the directions with the pattern is rather scant on fully period techniques. I am still debating in my head how period, or how modern I want to be when working on it.
>   

2-thread overlocking dates back to at least 1890 with a Wilcox & Gibbs 
overlock patent that uses a looper system very familiar to serger owners 
of today.

As to how they were used, the best thing you can do is, if possible, 
look at extant Edwardian garments. An ex-boyfriend of mine has a 
fabulous pre-WWI West Point Cadet's Dress Uniform; IIRC 2-thread 
overlock stitch was used to bind the edges of the pattern pieces to 
prevent the heavy wool from fraying.

andy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early 20th century serger use (was  sergers)
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Thank you Andy. I have a friend who works at a semi-local museum (well, up in Oakhurst, CA. if you ever want to do a road trip sometime). It's called the King Vintage Museum, and she said they have a number of garments available for hands on viewing. I will give her a buzz. Thanks for the suggestion, and for info on the serged uniform.

Kimiko


--- On Sun, 11/30/08, Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:

> As to how they were used, the best thing you can do is, if
> possible, look at extant Edwardian garments. An ex-boyfriend
> of mine has a fabulous pre-WWI West Point Cadet's Dress
> Uniform; IIRC 2-thread overlock stitch was used to bind the
> edges of the pattern pieces to prevent the heavy wool from
> fraying.
> 
> andy



      
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