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From: Kate Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:13:30 +0000
Thread-Topic: Re: [h-cost] Stockings query
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Thank you,  Carol and Chris, for your posts. I thought it must mean to fold the flap that way, but the instructions I'm following say that the heel flap should reach to "the middle of the foot" which I took to mean halfway along the sole. That's why I was puzzled. Will have a go and report on my progress.


Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor.

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Subject: [h-cost] google books
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Do you know this website?

http://www.google.com/books 

There are lots of books fully or half-scanned for preview... many sewing books, some costume books. If you put in "sewing", many interesting books come out. If I had known of this site before, I wouldn't make so many mistakes when purchasing books from amazon.

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture day in California
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I'm passing this along on behalf of the organizers of my upcoming appearanc=
e =

in Los Angeles. Please feel free to forward to other lists or individuals w=
ho =

may be interested.

-------- Original Message --------

SUBJECT: Robin Netherton Lecture Series in Los Angeles

The Historical Closet is pleased to announce a day of lectures by Robin
Netherton, medieval costume historian and co-editor of the academic
journal _Medieval Clothing and Textiles_. Ms. Netherton has lectured on
medieval clothing for academic audiences, historical societies,
reenactment groups, and other organizations in such cities as Boston,
Seattle, Philadelphia, Denver, Minneapolis, Orlando, Chicago, and San
Jose. This is her first appearance in the Los Angeles area.

The set of five lectures will focus on Western European Women=92s Dress of
the 14th and 15th Centuries.  Topics include: The Gothic Fitted Dress,
The Greenland Gored Gown, Sideless Surcotes, 15th Century V-Necked
Gowns, and Women=92s Heraldic Dress.

The event will be held February 7, 2009, at Mount St. Mary=92s College
in Los Angeles.

There are a limited number of spaces available so pre-registration is
encouraged.  Once all the spaces are sold out, a waiting list will be
started.  Please visit www.historicalcloset.com
<http://www.historicalcloset.com/> for more details and online
registration.  Please feel free to forward this message to anyone you
think may be interested.

We look forward to seeing you there,

Kerri
The Historical Closet

kerri@historicalcloset.com <mailto:kerri@historicalcloset.com>


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Fantasti! I'm so there--and it's not even my period.

MaggiRos

On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:40 AM, Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:

> I'm passing this along on behalf of the organizers of my upcoming
> appearance in Los Angeles. Please feel free to forward to other lists or
> individuals who may be interested.
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
> SUBJECT: Robin Netherton Lecture Series in Los Angeles
>
> The Historical Closet is pleased to announce a day of lectures by Robin
> Netherton, medieval costume historian and co-editor of the academic
> journal _Medieval Clothing and Textiles_. Ms. Netherton has lectured on
> medieval clothing for academic audiences, historical societies,
> reenactment groups, and other organizations in such cities as Boston,
> Seattle, Philadelphia, Denver, Minneapolis, Orlando, Chicago, and San
> Jose. This is her first appearance in the Los Angeles area.
>
> The set of five lectures will focus on Western European Women's Dress of
> the 14th and 15th Centuries.  Topics include: The Gothic Fitted Dress,
> The Greenland Gored Gown, Sideless Surcotes, 15th Century V-Necked
> Gowns, and Women's Heraldic Dress.
>
> The event will be held February 7, 2009, at Mount St. Mary's College
> in Los Angeles.
>
> There are a limited number of spaces available so pre-registration is
> encouraged.  Once all the spaces are sold out, a waiting list will be
> started.  Please visit www.historicalcloset.com
> <http://www.historicalcloset.com/> for more details and online
> registration.  Please feel free to forward this message to anyone you
> think may be interested.
>
> We look forward to seeing you there,
>
> Kerri
> The Historical Closet
>
> kerri@historicalcloset.com <mailto:kerri@historicalcloset.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
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Hi everyone,
I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit a
fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for it.
It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like cotton
voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 130cm (52")
wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember exactly how much but I
remember I bought the remainder of the roll and I thought it would be enough
for a decent gown).
Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 
So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900
suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy too
much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little fiddly
projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).

Elizabeth
-------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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Is it really stiff - could the stiffness be washed out?  And is it a deep violet?  I wonder if you couldn't do something from the Directoire/Empire/Regency period with it.  I worked on an extant one that was bright saffron!  Some of those gowns had trains, which I am sure could be made to be removable if you didn't want to be dragging that around all the time.

Sg

> From: ewalpole@grapevine.com.au
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:28:24 +1100
> Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
> 
> Hi everyone,
> I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit a
> fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for it.
> It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like cotton
> voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 130cm (52")
> wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember exactly how much but I
> remember I bought the remainder of the roll and I thought it would be enough
> for a decent gown).
> Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
> but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
> white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 
> So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900
> suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy too
> much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little fiddly
> projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).
> 
> Elizabeth
> -------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole   
> Canberra, Australia 
> http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Anyway,  my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
> but  I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
>  white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 



****************
I've seen one sheer cotton gown that was not white, but not solid either.  It 
was printed in a paisley-like pattern (in tans and pinks) that was a  
disposition...it had a clear, scalloped "end" to the print and was  unprinted  near 
the hem of the skirt and the ends of the wide pagoda  sleeves.
I also have seen an 1840's dress that was sheer, very stiff  cotton/something 
(wool?) blend in a plum color, but it also had a large window  pane woven in 
a twill weave in the fabric that was off white (almost  beige).
 
Then there's an 1850's dress, tiered with 3 flounces that was sheer and  
almost black (dark purple) with a trellis of red cabbage roses and buds and dark  
green leaves printed around the hem of each tier and across the chest  level 
of the bodice. You could get those fabric paints out and... you  know....it 
would be stunning!
**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW 
AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
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If you're interested in slightly later Victorian, there is at least one 
early bustle era (about 1870) extant sheer solid pink (and lace) dress - I 
don't know where I found the picture from though... it reminds me of the 
Tissot painting "Too Early": 
http://www.abcgallery.com/T/tissot/tissot17.html

I would think that 8 meters would be enough to do such a dress, if you 
were careful.

Good luck!
        -sunny
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sunny, 
Bustle era is OK, I prefer Natural form as I don't like making hoops (though
I'm tempted to try the Laughing moon stuffed bustle) but I'm really just
looking for a decent excuse to keep this fabric.
Thanks for the suggestion
Elizabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org
Sent: Wednesday, 3 December 2008 6:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?

If you're interested in slightly later Victorian, there is at least one
early bustle era (about 1870) extant sheer solid pink (and lace) dress - I
don't know where I found the picture from though... it reminds me of the
Tissot painting "Too Early": 
http://www.abcgallery.com/T/tissot/tissot17.html

I would think that 8 meters would be enough to do such a dress, if you were
careful.

Good luck!
        -sunny

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It's actually quite soft so Regency may be an option, but I just looked at
it again and realised I bought the remainder of 2 rolls (I loved it that
much and it was only $2 per metre I thought I could do something with it) so
I've probably got more than 10 metres all together, So I may use half of it
for a Regency gown and sell or give away the rest.
Thanks for the suggestion
Elizabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Wednesday, 3 December 2008 1:43 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?


Is it really stiff - could the stiffness be washed out?  And is it a deep
violet?  I wonder if you couldn't do something from the
Directoire/Empire/Regency period with it.  I worked on an extant one that
was bright saffron!  Some of those gowns had trains, which I am sure could
be made to be removable if you didn't want to be dragging that around all
the time.

Sg

> From: ewalpole@grapevine.com.au
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:28:24 +1100
> Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
> 
> Hi everyone,
> I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit 
> a fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for
it.
> It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like 
> cotton voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 
> 130cm (52") wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember 
> exactly how much but I remember I bought the remainder of the roll and 
> I thought it would be enough for a decent gown).
> Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer 
> dress but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not 
> counting
> white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 
> So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900 
> suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy 
> too much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little 
> fiddly projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).
> 
> Elizabeth
> -------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole   
> Canberra, Australia
> http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:28:24 +1100
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20081202122841.E630FC0A0D@bender.grapevine.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Hi everyone,
I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit a
fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for it.
It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like cotton
voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 130cm (52")
wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember exactly how much but I
remember I bought the remainder of the roll and I thought it would be enough
for a decent gown).
Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 
So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900
suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy too
much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little fiddly
projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).


There is the dress described in 'Costume in detail 1730-1930' as being a
Purple-black satin with matching gauze overdress, dating from the 1830's,
and
Currently in the Snowshill collection. That's quite a lovely dress (imnsho).

There's also (and this is from memory as it's been a while since I looked at
a
Copy) a mention in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' about a short trend in the
1660's
For women to wear 'sheers' over their gowns (it was memorable for the quote
from
Charles II saying that he would be quite happy for the ladies to wear
nothing
Else). I've never seen any other evidence for this, particularly pictorial
evidence,
And I've always been quite curious as to whether it was true or not, and
what such
A thing might look like, given that the style of the time was quite rigid
and structured.

Claire

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From: "Rickard, Patty" <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2008 10:33:20 -0500
Thread-Topic: [h-cost]  What can I do with this fabric?
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Hooray - today I finally got the original message! I got 2 responses to it on Tuesday and wondered what they were talking about. Have fun.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Claire Clarke
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 5:34 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:28:24 +1100
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20081202122841.E630FC0A0D@bender.grapevine.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

Hi everyone,
I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit a
fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for it.
It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like cotton
voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 130cm (52")
wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember exactly how much but I
remember I bought the remainder of the roll and I thought it would be enough
for a decent gown).
Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period.
So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900
suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy too
much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little fiddly
projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).


There is the dress described in 'Costume in detail 1730-1930' as being a
Purple-black satin with matching gauze overdress, dating from the 1830's,
and
Currently in the Snowshill collection. That's quite a lovely dress (imnsho).

There's also (and this is from memory as it's been a while since I looked at
a
Copy) a mention in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' about a short trend in the
1660's
For women to wear 'sheers' over their gowns (it was memorable for the quote
from
Charles II saying that he would be quite happy for the ladies to wear
nothing
Else). I've never seen any other evidence for this, particularly pictorial
evidence,
And I've always been quite curious as to whether it was true or not, and
what such
A thing might look like, given that the style of the time was quite rigid
and structured.

Claire

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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I am very interested what you think about this book. I was actually very pleased with it, but also a bit confused. I have written a review on amazon uk:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1228564117&sr=8-1

Opinions?

Zuzana
___________________________
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





      
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I missed a few posts.  I am not sure which era you are looking for for examples; but here is one:
http://saragrace.net/html/Arabella/Arabella.htm

This has been a favorite of mine for years.  I will make it someday!!!




> 
> There is the dress described in 'Costume in detail 1730-1930' as being a
> Purple-black satin with matching gauze overdress, dating from the 1830's,
> and
> Currently in the Snowshill collection. That's quite a lovely dress (imnsho).
> 
> There's also (and this is from memory as it's been a while since I looked at
> a
> Copy) a mention in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' about a short trend in the
> 1660's
> For women to wear 'sheers' over their gowns (it was memorable for the quote
> from
> Charles II saying that he would be quite happy for the ladies to wear
> nothing
> Else). I've never seen any other evidence for this, particularly pictorial
> evidence,
> And I've always been quite curious as to whether it was true or not, and
> what such
> A thing might look like, given that the style of the time was quite rigid
> and structured.
> 
> Claire

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Hi Zuzana,

I will be getting the book for Christmas, as I ordered my copy along with the Arnold book from the UK. So, once I get mine opened and looked at, I will let you all know what I think of it as well.

Kimiko


--- On Sat, 12/6/08, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am very interested what you think about this book. I was
> actually very pleased with it, but also a bit confused. I
> have written a review on amazon uk:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1228564117&sr=8-1
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> Zuzana



      
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At 17:19 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>Hi Zuzana,
>
>I will be getting the book for Christmas, as I ordered my copy along 
>with the Arnold book from the UK. So, once I get mine opened and 
>looked at, I will let you all know what I think of it as well.

I saw this while in Florence, I think, but as I don't like using 
block patterns I didn't study it.

Suzi

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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Oh  it's so much more than patterns from old clothes. The photo section that
iws half the book is, like the other JA books, a vast amount of information
about how they actually made these clothes: close ups and details that, in
many cases, you have never seen (and in some cases, thought of) before. If
that kind of information is of interest to you, as it is to me, then seeing
the pattern shapes derived from the actual garments is just frosting.

MaggiRos

On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 10:10 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 17:19 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>
>> Hi Zuzana,
>>
>> I will be getting the book for Christmas, as I ordered my copy along with
>> the Arnold book from the UK. So, once I get mine opened and looked at, I
>> will let you all know what I think of it as well.
>>
>
> I saw this while in Florence, I think, but as I don't like using block
> patterns I didn't study it.
>


-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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At 20:41 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>Oh  it's so much more than patterns from old clothes. The photo section that
>iws half the book is, like the other JA books, a vast amount of information
>about how they actually made these clothes: close ups and details that, in
>many cases, you have never seen (and in some cases, thought of) before. If
>that kind of information is of interest to you, as it is to me, then seeing
>the pattern shapes derived from the actual garments is just frosting.
>
>MaggiRos


Maggie, you misunderstood me. I have all the Janet Arnold books, and 
extras she gave me. Kimiko was talking about a book called "Pattern 
Cutting for Men's Costume" 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061

As I said, I saw it while at the "Colloquium for Janet Arnold", in 
Florence, but as it is mainly block patterns I decided I did not want 
it, as I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.

Suzi 

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>as I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.


Oh, my goodness! That must have been something!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert

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At 21:09 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>>as I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.
>
>
>Oh, my goodness! That must have been something!
>
>Marjorie

Yup!


>Marjorie Gilbert
>author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
>www.marjoriegilbert.net
>http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Oh my goodness. I am sorry. That's what I get for reading mail on a full
stomach.. My apologies fro misunderstanding.

MaggiRos

On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 1:01 PM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 20:41 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>
>> Oh  it's so much more than patterns from old clothes. The photo section
>> that
>> iws half the book is, like the other JA books, a vast amount of
>> information
>> about how they actually made these clothes: close ups and details that, in
>> many cases, you have never seen (and in some cases, thought of) before. If
>> that kind of information is of interest to you, as it is to me, then
>> seeing
>> the pattern shapes derived from the actual garments is just frosting.
>>
>> MaggiRos
>>
>
>
> Maggie, you misunderstood me. I have all the Janet Arnold books, and extras
> she gave me. Kimiko was talking about a book called "Pattern Cutting for
> Men's Costume"
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061
>
> As I said, I saw it while at the "Colloquium for Janet Arnold", in
> Florence, but as it is mainly block patterns I decided I did not want it, as
> I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.
>
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
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At 21:25 09/12/2008, you wrote:
>Oh my goodness. I am sorry. That's what I get for reading mail on a full
>stomach.. My apologies fro misunderstanding.
>
>MaggiRos


Not a problem - mine is empty, so I'm a bit ratty - sorry!

Suzi


>On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 1:01 PM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > At 20:41 09/12/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >> Oh  it's so much more than patterns from old clothes. The photo section
> >> that
> >> iws half the book is, like the other JA books, a vast amount of
> >> information
> >> about how they actually made these clothes: close ups and details that, in
> >> many cases, you have never seen (and in some cases, thought of) before. If
> >> that kind of information is of interest to you, as it is to me, then
> >> seeing
> >> the pattern shapes derived from the actual garments is just frosting.
> >>
> >> MaggiRos
> >>
> >
> >
> > Maggie, you misunderstood me. I have all the Janet Arnold books, and extras
> > she gave me. Kimiko was talking about a book called "Pattern Cutting for
> > Men's Costume"
> > 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Costume-Elizabeth-Friendship/dp/1408100061
> >
> > As I said, I saw it while at the "Colloquium for Janet Arnold", in
> > Florence, but as it is mainly block patterns I decided I did not 
> want it, as
> > I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.
> >
> >
> > Suzi

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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 16:38:57 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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I missed a few posts.  I am not sure which era you are looking for for
examples; but here is one:
http://saragrace.net/html/Arabella/Arabella.htm

This has been a favorite of mine for years.  I will make it someday!!!



Thanks Saragrace, that is a lovely gown, especially for that era, which
usually strikes me as rather graceless. However I'm looking a little later -
1660s, or the later part of the Stuart period.

Claire

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Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can 
find pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs 
information, and it is not a period I do.

Suzi

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What area?  I've got tons from the continent, but very little (other
than the occasional royals) for England.

-E House


On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 12:26 PM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can find
> pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs information, and
> it is not a period I do.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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There's always the Medieval volume of Norris <ducking and running>. Well
it's not bad for general information and sillhouettes.

Maggie

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:27 AM, Anne <anne.montgomerie@googlemail.com>wrote:

> I'd love to hear the suggestions - I think you may have to pick it out
> carefully from non-costume sources.  Most books seem to skip straight from
> Wars of the Roses to HEnry VIII, I never found much for Henry VII's reign.
>
> JEan
>
>
> Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>
>> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can find
>> pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs information, and
>> it is not a period I do.
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>  _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
or your favorite online bookseller
_______________________________________________
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There's a book, "Women of Distinction: Margaret of York and Margaret
of Austria" - not sure about M of A but M of Y died in 1503, so some
of the photos might be helpful:
http://books.google.com/books?id=UquEJwAACAAJ&dq=margaret+of+york+women+of+distinction&client=firefox-a

Also you might try looking at tomb effigies of the period in question,
but others might be able to better speak to that (paging Robin
Netherton?)

Allison T.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 17:26:26 +0000
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20081210172457.03c2b050@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can
> find pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs
> information, and it is not a period I do.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
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There's a book, "Women of Distinction: Margaret of York and Margaret
of Austria" - not sure about M of A but M of Y died in 1503, so some
of the photos might be helpful:
http://books.google.com/books?id=UquEJwAACAAJ&dq=margaret+of+york+women+of+distinction&client=firefox-a

Also you might try looking at tomb effigies of the period in question,
but others might be able to better speak to that (paging Robin
Netherton?)

Allison T.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 2:00 PM,  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 17:26:26 +0000
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20081210172457.03c2b050@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can
> find pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs
> information, and it is not a period I do.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I'd love to hear the suggestions - I think you may have to pick it out 
carefully from non-costume sources.  Most books seem to skip straight 
from Wars of the Roses to HEnry VIII, I never found much for Henry VII's 
reign.

JEan

Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can find 
> pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs 
> information, and it is not a period I do.
>
> Suzi
>
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At 18:57 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>There's always the Medieval volume of Norris <ducking and running>. Well
>it's not bad for general information and sillhouettes.

I sold mine!

Suzi

>Maggie
>
>On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:27 AM, Anne <anne.montgomerie@googlemail.com>wrote:
>
> > I'd love to hear the suggestions - I think you may have to pick it out
> > carefully from non-costume sources.  Most books seem to skip straight from
> > Wars of the Roses to HEnry VIII, I never found much for Henry VII's reign.
> >
> > JEan
> >
> >
> > Suzi Clarke wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can find
> >> pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs 
> information, and
> >> it is not a period I do.
> >>
> >> Suzi
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>  _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Maggie Secara
>~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
>ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
>Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
>or your favorite online bookseller
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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You're mixing up the two sisters. Margaret was married to the king of Scotland. Mary(Rose) was married to the King of France but was widowed shortly after the marriage and married her real love, Charles Brandon, before Henry could arrange another political marriage for her. She returned to England with her new husband. 
Quite the soap opera, those Tudors!
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 18:27 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>What area?  I've got tons from the continent, but very little (other
>than the occasional royals) for England.


Scotland - just to be difficult, but France or England would do. 
Henry Vlll's sister returning to Scotland from ?France I understand.

Suzi

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I can remember pre-internet days when that was the only costume book our library had; it was out of print & we thought it was worth its weight in gold. "the good old days" <grin>

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 3:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503

At 18:57 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>There's always the Medieval volume of Norris <ducking and running>. Well
>it's not bad for general information and sillhouettes.

I sold mine!

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503
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At 21:01 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>You're mixing up the two sisters. Margaret was married to the king 
>of Scotland. Mary(Rose) was married to the King of France but was 
>widowed shortly after the marriage and married her real love, 
>Charles Brandon, before Henry could arrange another political 
>marriage for her. She returned to England with her new husband.
>Quite the soap opera, those Tudors!

oops, so I did. It is Margaret Tudor, marrying the King Of Scotland 
so 1503 is the date I am looking for. However, the French connection 
holds, I think.

Suzi

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I'll give you a quick general run-down; I haven't got it in me right
now to look up all the documentation.  Hopefully this'll give you a
good starting point. I'm guessing you're interested in English styles,
so I'll try to slant it that way, but I'll have to refer heavily to
continental styles because A) they're so much better documented and B)
a few years later when English fashions get easier to document, they
match up reasonably well with what the Franco-Flemish were doing 10-15
years earlier.  So, when I get continental, I'll try to describe what
they were wearing c1488-1493.

Monumental brasses will be your best resource for c1500 English
fashions.  They're not the most accurate source, but they're loads
better than almost nothing you'll find in the portraits arena.
However, Elizabeth of York's c1500 portrait shows what seems to be a
pretty typical style for the era/area, even if it is in much more
luxurious fabrics than your average gentlewoman would have been
wearing:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Elizabeth_of_York.jpg
Henry the VIII's sisters, Mary Tudor--who went on to queen it in
France--and Margaret Tudor, who queened Scotland, have a few
illuminations floating around; they were famous beauties.  (The
portraits I've found of them are probably wrong for your project,
though there's a painting of Margaret that's only a few years too
late, and a sketch of Mary that's only a tad too French.)  Catherine
of Aragon has at least one great portrait from c1505, during her
widowhood:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Michel_Sittow_002.jpg
though again, the style she's wearing is not terribly English.  Stick
with the brasses.

If you search through google books, you'll find some transcripts of
descriptions of coronations, inventories, etc from around that time.
For example, here's the privy purse expenses of Elizabeth of York:
http://books.google.com/books?id=p91CAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=%22elizabeth+of+york%22
(Sorry, this is just the first one I ran into in my bookmarks.
There's lots more good stuff there.  The Victorians may have been
horrible costume historians in a lot of ways, but they were great at
transcribing.)

On to the overall style.  I read one great description in a
Spaniard-visits-the-Engligh-court travelogue from the mid 1500s; even
though it's the wrong date, it pretty well sums up the English
fashions c1500: frumpy and ill-fitting, making the women look
shapeless and sloppy.  Franco-Flemish high fashion in the last years
of the 15th century had a well-fitted 4-panel square-necked overgown
over a bust-supporting 4-panel undergown (directly descended from the
GFD).  The English c1500 most likely also wore a bust-supporting
undergown, but rather than fitting like a glove, their overgowns
tended to fit like a brown paper bag.

(I'll be making sweeping generalizations here.  This is not the only
style nor the only way it was done.  It's just the most common,
stereotypical style.)

For illustration purposes (but not documentation, since I don't know
exactly when this is from... but it's the right style), here's a
typical c1500 English outfit:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/trivick02.jpg
Here's a c1504 English brass--not as detailed, but more dateable:
http://www.thurrock-community.org.uk/historysoc/brasses/stiff2.jpg

For the overgown, start by picturing a non-bust-supporting GFD that
skims over the body but doesn't fit it closely.  Give it a front
placket opening down to hip level, hiding a hook-and-eyes closure.
The neckline should be cut square (when you cut it square, it'll slip
off the shoulders a bit when worn and no longer look square--this is
the correct look) and high; up to about collarbone level.  Much like
the French and Flemish in the 1490s, the English c1500 sometimes put
an angled-up peak at the center front of the neckline, like in that
second link.  A fabric guard, most often shown as black, was usually
applied to the neckline and front opening.  Most or all of the
overgowns seem to have been lined in some type of fur, which may be
part of the reason for the high frumpiness level.

(Apart from the frumpiness, the overgown is very very similar to that
worn in the 1490s on the continent.  There are quite a lot of
Franco-Flemish paintings & illuminations that show it.)

On the continent, they were experimenting with waist seams across the
back that had pleats below, but not in England--no waist seams on this
style there yet.  On most of the brasses, the length of the gown is
past-the-floor, but that's not necessarily realistic.  The sleeves are
usually relatively closely fitted, with a large turned-up fur-lined
cuff at the end, often with a slit.

The one non-typical feature of the top image I linked to is the
chemise; a more typical look would be a sheer white scarf with the
ends tucked down into the overgown's neckline.  (Just make a basic,
tunic-style, not-meant-to-be-seen chemise.) The belt, however, is very
typical; big, bulky, long, decorative, and buckled loosely so that it
hangs off the hips.  The kennel/pediment gable hood is also almost
universal.

I'm not much of a shoe expert, but on some brasses of the time I've
seen little pointy toes sticking out from under the hem.  The big
bearclaw type shoes don't seem to have hit England yet at this time,
but don't quote me on that.

As far as patterns go, there's none out there that I know of that get
it all right, but I'd bet you can come up with your own!

-E House
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A. Thurman wrote:
> There's a book, "Women of Distinction: Margaret of York and Margaret
> of Austria" - not sure about M of A but M of Y died in 1503, so some
> of the photos might be helpful:
> http://books.google.com/books?id=UquEJwAACAAJ&dq=margaret+of+york+women+of+distinction&client=firefox-a
> 
> Also you might try looking at tomb effigies of the period in question,
> but others might be able to better speak to that (paging Robin
> Netherton?)

Both effigies and brasses are plentiful in England at this point and are 
readily available in books. For brasses, search your available libraries for 
the keywords "monumental brasses" (good starts are the V&A's "Brass Rubbings" 
and the "Portfolio Plates" of the Monumental Brass Society). For effigies, 
search under "church monuments." There are fewer good collections for those, 
though; my own collection of effigy images is culled together from things like 
postcards and tourist pamphlets given out at historic churches.

Otherwise I can't help with details on this period. This is a bit past my 
period of specialty; I'll refer you to E House (who's already gotten there 
with good info, I see), and Melanie Schuessler.

--Robin


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At 21:18 10/12/2008, you wrote:

Thank you for all that help. I think it will be all a bit much for 
the customer. I am not making this outfit - they have an event, a one 
off, and are trying to make as little as possible. Bloomin' gable 
headdresses seem to be de rigeur at this time, and I can't see them 
making those somehow! I made them costumes of around 1570 for other 
events but they are not really suitable for quick and dirty conversions.

However, I'll pass this on, with thanks again.

Suzi

>I'll give you a quick general run-down; I haven't got it in me right
>now to look up all the documentation.  Hopefully this'll give you a
>good starting point. I'm guessing you're interested in English styles,
>so I'll try to slant it that way, but I'll have to refer heavily to
>continental styles because A) they're so much better documented and B)
>a few years later when English fashions get easier to document, they
>match up reasonably well with what the Franco-Flemish were doing 10-15
>years earlier.  So, when I get continental, I'll try to describe what
>they were wearing c1488-1493.
>
>Monumental brasses will be your best resource for c1500 English
>fashions.  They're not the most accurate source, but they're loads
>better than almost nothing you'll find in the portraits arena.
>However, Elizabeth of York's c1500 portrait shows what seems to be a
>pretty typical style for the era/area, even if it is in much more
>luxurious fabrics than your average gentlewoman would have been
>wearing:
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Elizabeth_of_York.jpg
>Henry the VIII's sisters, Mary Tudor--who went on to queen it in
>France--and Margaret Tudor, who queened Scotland, have a few
>illuminations floating around; they were famous beauties.  (The
>portraits I've found of them are probably wrong for your project,
>though there's a painting of Margaret that's only a few years too
>late, and a sketch of Mary that's only a tad too French.)  Catherine
>of Aragon has at least one great portrait from c1505, during her
>widowhood:
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Michel_Sittow_002.jpg
>though again, the style she's wearing is not terribly English.  Stick
>with the brasses.
>
>If you search through google books, you'll find some transcripts of
>descriptions of coronations, inventories, etc from around that time.
>For example, here's the privy purse expenses of Elizabeth of York:
>http://books.google.com/books?id=p91CAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=%22elizabeth+of+york%22
>(Sorry, this is just the first one I ran into in my bookmarks.
>There's lots more good stuff there.  The Victorians may have been
>horrible costume historians in a lot of ways, but they were great at
>transcribing.)
>
>On to the overall style.  I read one great description in a
>Spaniard-visits-the-Engligh-court travelogue from the mid 1500s; even
>though it's the wrong date, it pretty well sums up the English
>fashions c1500: frumpy and ill-fitting, making the women look
>shapeless and sloppy.  Franco-Flemish high fashion in the last years
>of the 15th century had a well-fitted 4-panel square-necked overgown
>over a bust-supporting 4-panel undergown (directly descended from the
>GFD).  The English c1500 most likely also wore a bust-supporting
>undergown, but rather than fitting like a glove, their overgowns
>tended to fit like a brown paper bag.
>
>(I'll be making sweeping generalizations here.  This is not the only
>style nor the only way it was done.  It's just the most common,
>stereotypical style.)
>
>For illustration purposes (but not documentation, since I don't know
>exactly when this is from... but it's the right style), here's a
>typical c1500 English outfit:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/trivick02.jpg
>Here's a c1504 English brass--not as detailed, but more dateable:
>http://www.thurrock-community.org.uk/historysoc/brasses/stiff2.jpg
>
>For the overgown, start by picturing a non-bust-supporting GFD that
>skims over the body but doesn't fit it closely.  Give it a front
>placket opening down to hip level, hiding a hook-and-eyes closure.
>The neckline should be cut square (when you cut it square, it'll slip
>off the shoulders a bit when worn and no longer look square--this is
>the correct look) and high; up to about collarbone level.  Much like
>the French and Flemish in the 1490s, the English c1500 sometimes put
>an angled-up peak at the center front of the neckline, like in that
>second link.  A fabric guard, most often shown as black, was usually
>applied to the neckline and front opening.  Most or all of the
>overgowns seem to have been lined in some type of fur, which may be
>part of the reason for the high frumpiness level.
>
>(Apart from the frumpiness, the overgown is very very similar to that
>worn in the 1490s on the continent.  There are quite a lot of
>Franco-Flemish paintings & illuminations that show it.)
>
>On the continent, they were experimenting with waist seams across the
>back that had pleats below, but not in England--no waist seams on this
>style there yet.  On most of the brasses, the length of the gown is
>past-the-floor, but that's not necessarily realistic.  The sleeves are
>usually relatively closely fitted, with a large turned-up fur-lined
>cuff at the end, often with a slit.
>
>The one non-typical feature of the top image I linked to is the
>chemise; a more typical look would be a sheer white scarf with the
>ends tucked down into the overgown's neckline.  (Just make a basic,
>tunic-style, not-meant-to-be-seen chemise.) The belt, however, is very
>typical; big, bulky, long, decorative, and buckled loosely so that it
>hangs off the hips.  The kennel/pediment gable hood is also almost
>universal.
>
>I'm not much of a shoe expert, but on some brasses of the time I've
>seen little pointy toes sticking out from under the hem.  The big
>bearclaw type shoes don't seem to have hit England yet at this time,
>but don't quote me on that.
>
>As far as patterns go, there's none out there that I know of that get
>it all right, but I'd bet you can come up with your own!
>
>-E House
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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On Dec 10, 2008, at 4:39 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>
> Otherwise I can't help with details on this period. This is a bit  
> past my period of specialty; I'll refer you to E House (who's  
> already gotten there with good info, I see), and Melanie Schuessler.

Replied privately.

:)
Melanie
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Ahh, with Margaret you're in a bit of luck:
http://tudorhistory.org/people/margaret/marsketch.jpg

>From what you've said, I think that what I wrote about English
fashions pretty much carries over, especially if you're dealing with
Margaret's court.

-E House
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At 21:39 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>A. Thurman wrote:
>>There's a book, "Women of Distinction: Margaret of York and Margaret
>>of Austria" - not sure about M of A but M of Y died in 1503, so some
>>of the photos might be helpful:
>>http://books.google.com/books?id=UquEJwAACAAJ&dq=margaret+of+york+women+of+distinction&client=firefox-a
>>Also you might try looking at tomb effigies of the period in question,
>>but others might be able to better speak to that (paging Robin
>>Netherton?)
>
>Both effigies and brasses are plentiful in England at this point and 
>are readily available in books. For brasses, search your available 
>libraries for the keywords "monumental brasses" (good starts are the 
>V&A's "Brass Rubbings" and the "Portfolio Plates" of the Monumental 
>Brass Society). For effigies, search under "church monuments." There 
>are fewer good collections for those, though; my own collection of 
>effigy images is culled together from things like postcards and 
>tourist pamphlets given out at historic churches.

Thanks - so is my collection. I've passed on E.House and Melanie's 
information - thank goodness I'm not doing this one!

Suzi



>Otherwise I can't help with details on this period. This is a bit 
>past my period of specialty; I'll refer you to E House (who's 
>already gotten there with good info, I see), and Melanie Schuessler.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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At 18:27 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>What area?  I've got tons from the continent, but very little (other
>than the occasional royals) for England.


Scotland - just to be difficult, but France or England would do. 
Henry Vlll's sister returning to Scotland from ?France I understand.

Suzi

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In Margaret's wedding portrait she is wearing a small French hood.  
Scottish fashions were often more French-influenced.  (I always feel 
sorry for Margaret, she looks so young and a bit dumpy, aged 13, 
compared to her sister Mary who was 18 in her wedding portrait and 
renowned as the most beautiful princess in Europe!)

Jean

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 21:18 10/12/2008, you wrote:
>
> Thank you for all that help. I think it will be all a bit much for the 
> customer. I am not making this outfit - they have an event, a one off, 
> and are trying to make as little as possible. Bloomin' gable 
> headdresses seem to be de rigeur at this time, and I can't see them 
> making those somehow! I made them costumes of around 1570 for other 
> events but they are not really suitable for quick and dirty conversions.
>
> However, I'll pass this on, with thanks again.
>
> Suzi
>
>> I'll give you a quick general run-down; I haven't got it in me right
>> now to look up all the documentation.  Hopefully this'll give you a
>> good starting point. I'm guessing you're interested in English styles,
>> so I'll try to slant it that way, but I'll have to refer heavily to
>> continental styles because A) they're so much better documented and B)
>> a few years later when English fashions get easier to document, they
>> match up reasonably well with what the Franco-Flemish were doing 10-15
>> years earlier.  So, when I get continental, I'll try to describe what
>> they were wearing c1488-1493.
>>
>> Monumental brasses will be your best resource for c1500 English
>> fashions.  They're not the most accurate source, but they're loads
>> better than almost nothing you'll find in the portraits arena.
>> However, Elizabeth of York's c1500 portrait shows what seems to be a
>> pretty typical style for the era/area, even if it is in much more
>> luxurious fabrics than your average gentlewoman would have been
>> wearing:
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Elizabeth_of_York.jpg
>> Henry the VIII's sisters, Mary Tudor--who went on to queen it in
>> France--and Margaret Tudor, who queened Scotland, have a few
>> illuminations floating around; they were famous beauties.  (The
>> portraits I've found of them are probably wrong for your project,
>> though there's a painting of Margaret that's only a few years too
>> late, and a sketch of Mary that's only a tad too French.)  Catherine
>> of Aragon has at least one great portrait from c1505, during her
>> widowhood:
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Michel_Sittow_002.jpg
>> though again, the style she's wearing is not terribly English.  Stick
>> with the brasses.
>>
>> If you search through google books, you'll find some transcripts of
>> descriptions of coronations, inventories, etc from around that time.
>> For example, here's the privy purse expenses of Elizabeth of York:
>> http://books.google.com/books?id=p91CAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=%22elizabeth+of+york%22 
>>
>> (Sorry, this is just the first one I ran into in my bookmarks.
>> There's lots more good stuff there.  The Victorians may have been
>> horrible costume historians in a lot of ways, but they were great at
>> transcribing.)
>>
>> On to the overall style.  I read one great description in a
>> Spaniard-visits-the-Engligh-court travelogue from the mid 1500s; even
>> though it's the wrong date, it pretty well sums up the English
>> fashions c1500: frumpy and ill-fitting, making the women look
>> shapeless and sloppy.  Franco-Flemish high fashion in the last years
>> of the 15th century had a well-fitted 4-panel square-necked overgown
>> over a bust-supporting 4-panel undergown (directly descended from the
>> GFD).  The English c1500 most likely also wore a bust-supporting
>> undergown, but rather than fitting like a glove, their overgowns
>> tended to fit like a brown paper bag.
>>
>> (I'll be making sweeping generalizations here.  This is not the only
>> style nor the only way it was done.  It's just the most common,
>> stereotypical style.)
>>
>> For illustration purposes (but not documentation, since I don't know
>> exactly when this is from... but it's the right style), here's a
>> typical c1500 English outfit:
>> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/trivick02.jpg
>> Here's a c1504 English brass--not as detailed, but more dateable:
>> http://www.thurrock-community.org.uk/historysoc/brasses/stiff2.jpg
>>
>> For the overgown, start by picturing a non-bust-supporting GFD that
>> skims over the body but doesn't fit it closely.  Give it a front
>> placket opening down to hip level, hiding a hook-and-eyes closure.
>> The neckline should be cut square (when you cut it square, it'll slip
>> off the shoulders a bit when worn and no longer look square--this is
>> the correct look) and high; up to about collarbone level.  Much like
>> the French and Flemish in the 1490s, the English c1500 sometimes put
>> an angled-up peak at the center front of the neckline, like in that
>> second link.  A fabric guard, most often shown as black, was usually
>> applied to the neckline and front opening.  Most or all of the
>> overgowns seem to have been lined in some type of fur, which may be
>> part of the reason for the high frumpiness level.
>>
>> (Apart from the frumpiness, the overgown is very very similar to that
>> worn in the 1490s on the continent.  There are quite a lot of
>> Franco-Flemish paintings & illuminations that show it.)
>>
>> On the continent, they were experimenting with waist seams across the
>> back that had pleats below, but not in England--no waist seams on this
>> style there yet.  On most of the brasses, the length of the gown is
>> past-the-floor, but that's not necessarily realistic.  The sleeves are
>> usually relatively closely fitted, with a large turned-up fur-lined
>> cuff at the end, often with a slit.
>>
>> The one non-typical feature of the top image I linked to is the
>> chemise; a more typical look would be a sheer white scarf with the
>> ends tucked down into the overgown's neckline.  (Just make a basic,
>> tunic-style, not-meant-to-be-seen chemise.) The belt, however, is very
>> typical; big, bulky, long, decorative, and buckled loosely so that it
>> hangs off the hips.  The kennel/pediment gable hood is also almost
>> universal.
>>
>> I'm not much of a shoe expert, but on some brasses of the time I've
>> seen little pointy toes sticking out from under the hem.  The big
>> bearclaw type shoes don't seem to have hit England yet at this time,
>> but don't quote me on that.
>>
>> As far as patterns go, there's none out there that I know of that get
>> it all right, but I'd bet you can come up with your own!
>>
>> -E House
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Hello Suzi,

I have a few on my web site, mostly culled from illuminations of the time.

1500s (mostly French or Flemish illuminations)
For women: http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/index.html
and http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1500/index.html
For men: http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorMen/1500/index.html

I have other images from Henry VII to a bit after Henry VIII died. But the scanning of the images have been a bit slow going, as I still have a stack of images to scan in when I can.

Kimiko


--- On Wed, 12/10/08, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where
> I can find pictures for this period. One of my regular
> customers needs information, and it is not a period I do.
> 
> Suzi
> 



      
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--- On Wed, 12/10/08, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> Bloomin' gable 
> headdresses seem to be de rigeur at this time, and I
> can't see them 
> making those somehow! 


Suzi,

Something I've been working on are the Anne of Brittany style of "French" hoods. They really are simple to create (a rectangle actually seems to be a workable base, or you can turn to Norris' Tudor book for a more shaped pattern), and work very well when worn & attached over a simple biggin or coif, with a billiment made from a string of pearls. I don't have a dress diary of my progress stuff, but it is a suggestion instead of the gable. I need to finish my final mockups and do the completed dress diary after the holidays.

And gables from this early in the century also appear to be simple hoods, with less structure than even a decade later. I've yet to play around with them, but that's been the idea I've been seeing in my eye when I look at the images.

Kimiko





      
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Have you looked at the Tudor Effigies database
http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/
HTH
Elizabeth 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Thursday, 11 December 2008 4:26 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503


Does anyone have  web sites, or recommendations as to where I can find
pictures for this period. One of my regular customers needs information, and
it is not a period I do.

Suzi

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At 13:04 11/12/2008, you wrote:
>Have you looked at the Tudor Effigies database
>http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/
>HTH
>Elizabeth

Unfortunately there is nothing of 1503, and only 5 images before 
1520. I am well aware that the effigies do not always "match" their 
dates, usually being slightly earlier than the tomb date, but 
unfortunately all the ladies have gable or kennel headdresses, 
something I really want to avoid, as badly made ones look awful, and 
I will have no control over the making of these garments.

Thanks anyway.

Suzi 

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On Dec 10, 2008, at 7:38 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> Something I've been working on are the Anne of Brittany style of  
> "French" hoods. They really are simple to create (a rectangle  
> actually seems to be a workable base, or you can turn to Norris'  
> Tudor book for a more shaped pattern), and work very well when worn  
> & attached over a simple biggin or coif, with a billiment made from  
> a string of pearls.

This is an excellent idea.  I would stick with simple shapes rather  
than going to Norris, who is making it up.  These early draped hoods  
are really lovely.  They should actually have a tail on the back,  
being descended from earlier hoods with liripipes, but the style is  
so little-known that no one would notice the absence if you left it  
off and just did a plain drape.

Melanie Schuessler

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--- On Thu, 12/11/08, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
> This is an excellent idea.  I would stick with simple
> shapes rather than going to Norris, who is making it up. 
> These early draped hoods are really lovely.  They should
> actually have a tail on the back, being descended from
> earlier hoods with liripipes, but the style is so
> little-known that no one would notice the absence if you
> left it off and just did a plain drape.
> 
> Melanie Schuessler


Thank you Melanie,

I made my mockups starting with Norris' shape, and then realized like you said that he was making that one up, tho it was close. It took a few mockups to end up trying just the rectangle, and that looks quite close, once wired and billimented - but I will admit that it is hard to tell sometimes when most hoods are painted in black on black.

The one image I have that showed the back having that hanging liripipe end seemed to not look exactly like the Anne of Brittany style, but a slightly larger, fuller hood, at least to my eye.
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/ManConfessD3.html
It may be that both are descended from the same style of hood, or are just similar in style. The other AoB hoods I have images of, I don't see anything to suggest the liripipe - tho just about all of those images I have seen show front or side views, not a definitive back view where the front is clearly the AoB style.

Although I do wonder about the image I have above, if the front of that hood is turned down over the front of the head during prayer, and then turned back to show off the colored lining we see on the AoB style of hood. Speculation completely on my part.

Kimiko




      
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On Dec 11, 2008, at 7:30 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> The one image I have that showed the back having that hanging  
> liripipe end seemed to not look exactly like the Anne of Brittany  
> style, but a slightly larger, fuller hood, at least to my eye.
> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/ManConfessD3.html
> It may be that both are descended from the same style of hood, or  
> are just similar in style. The other AoB hoods I have images of, I  
> don't see anything to suggest the liripipe - tho just about all of  
> those images I have seen show front or side views, not a definitive  
> back view where the front is clearly the AoB style.

That's an earlier 15th-century style, close to the original fitted  
hood with liripipe.  It developed in several different directions,  
with the tail getting wider and flatter as time went on.  One style  
had longer versions of the lappets you see in that one with a split  
at the shoulder, and one had a shorter drape without lappets.   
There's a portrait medal of Anne of Brittany in profile that shows  
the tail pretty clearly.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/21429-popup.html

In a larger image of it you can see that the drape has a border,  
while the tail does not.  There is also an illumination of Anne that  
shows the two different parts quite clearly.

http://www.themorgan.org/collections/swf/exhibOnline.asp?id=364

Melanie
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http://www.archive.org/details/p1cyclopediaofco01planuoft

I was reading the OED word of the day and saw this reference.  You can tell from the archive that it has been downloaded ~ 300 times, so I am sure some of you have already seen it.  But it was new to me and has some really fun drawings in it....like check out the drawing of the liripipe hood.

Sg
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Personally, I liked the entry for coat-hardy.  Thanks for sharing this link - I don't know how much it will teach us about costume, but I find these kinds of pages really useful when I'm doing collage.
 
Janet
> > http://www.archive.org/details/p1cyclopediaofco01planuoft> > I was reading the OED word of the day and saw this reference. You can tell from the archive that it has been downloaded ~ 300 times, so I am sure some of you have already seen it. But it was new to me and has some really fun drawings in it....like check out the drawing of the liripipe hood.> > Sg> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume
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Chiara Francesca wrote:
> This is one of my favorite costuming book collections!
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I have been trying for years to save up enough for all 4 volumes. :)

Are you certain you're thinking of the same book? Every edition I've seen of 
Planche's Cyclopedia is two volumes (sometimes rebound as one volume). I still 
find this on open stacks sometimes, esp. at old city or college libraries.

I see on WorldCat that there are a handful of libraries that list an edition 
that was created from combining the British and US editions as "two volumes in 
four"; perhaps that is what you're thinking of? It's not the standard, though.

I should note that, fun as this is, it is a notoriously unreliable source. 
Those of you who have seen my lecture on Victorian costume scholarship may 
recall that I spend a long time on Planche, and I show a number of slides from 
the Cyclopedia to demonstrate his habits of "correcting" costume details and 
his reliance on other people's drawings rather than actual medieval works.

--Robin
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The online version lists at least 3 volumes....
Sg

> Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:55:43 -0600
> From: robin@netherton.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume
> 
> Chiara Francesca wrote:
> > This is one of my favorite costuming book collections!
> > 
> > Thanks for the heads up. I have been trying for years to save up enough for all 4 volumes. :)
> 
> Are you certain you're thinking of the same book? Every edition I've seen of 
> Planche's Cyclopedia is two volumes (sometimes rebound as one volume). I still 
> find this on open stacks sometimes, esp. at old city or college libraries.

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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> The online version lists at least 3 volumes....
> Sg

What am I missing? I downloaded a 30MB .pdf. It ends abruptly at p.272 
midsentence.

The title page says "IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. THE DICTIONARY." That's 
consistent with WorldCat listings that say Vol. 1 is the dictionary and Vol. 2 
is a general history.

A few pages later, there's a note to "subscribers" (presumably people who 
would have paid in advance and received the work in sections) noting that they 
should save the illustrations "for binding with the General History, for the 
illustration of which they were specially designed." However, for "those who 
prefer dividing the plates," there's a suggested placement for eight of the 
illustrations within the Dictionary. The last of them is to go across from p. 
499, so obviously I'm missing almost half of the book, or more.

Did I miss downloading another file?

--Robin
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>> The online version lists at least 3 volumes....
>> Sg
> 
> What am I missing? I downloaded a 30MB .pdf. It ends abruptly at p.272 
> midsentence.

OK, answering my own question. The link forwarded to the list was to Volume 1, 
part 1. There are also pages for Vol. 1, part 2:
http://www.archive.org/details/p2cyclopediaofc01planuoft

Vol 2, part 1:
http://www.archive.org/details/p1cyclopediaofco02planuoft

and Vol. 2, part 2:
http://www.archive.org/details/p2cyclopediaofco02planuoft

Still, there are only two volumes. This library's copy (according to the 
listing) has been split and bound into four books. The split of Volume 1 is 
hardly thoughtful, as the first book ends midsentence on p. 272, in the middle 
of "Head-Dress." Part 2 picks up with p. 273, nothing before that, and ends on 
p. 527, although there are two plates stuck at the end (one of them scanned 
upside-down). I haven't looked to see where the rest of the plates are bound, 
or if they're missing.

Volume 2, the General History, is also split midsentence, between pages 216 
and 217 (out of a total of 448).

This will be really useful to have at home. I've spent way too much time with 
it at way too many libraries ... but I wouldn't recommend it for anything but 
entertainment. I use it mostly for tracking down the origins of costume myths.

--Robin





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My mistake, I was looking at this page:http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=cyclopedia%20costume
and read "...commencement of the Christian era to the accession of George the Third (Volume 2, Pt.1)" My eyes and brain read Third Volume....


Sg

> Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 14:59:15 -0600
> From: robin@netherton.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume
> 
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> > The online version lists at least 3 volumes....
> > Sg
> 
> What am I missing? I downloaded a 30MB .pdf. It ends abruptly at p.272 
> midsentence.
> 
> The title page says "IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. THE DICTIONARY." That's 
> consistent with WorldCat listings that say Vol. 1 is the dictionary and Vol. 2 
> is a general history.
> 
> A few pages later, there's a note to "subscribers" (presumably people who 
> would have paid in advance and received the work in sections) noting that they 
> should save the illustrations "for binding with the General History, for the 
> illustration of which they were specially designed." However, for "those who 
> prefer dividing the plates," there's a suggested placement for eight of the 
> illustrations within the Dictionary. The last of them is to go across from p. 
> 499, so obviously I'm missing almost half of the book, or more.
> 
> Did I miss downloading another file?
> 
> --Robin
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:42:54 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
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Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
patterns from an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
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http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm#

what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve?

De

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De,

It looks like fly-fringe,  What a beautiful dress.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] need a clue


> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm#
> 
> what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve?
> 
> De
> 
> _______________________________________________
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At 08:38 17/12/2008, you wrote:
>http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm#
>
>what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve?

It is  "fly fringe", a handmade trim, usually from silk ribbon and 
thread. Apparently it used to be one of the things ladies did to keep 
their hands busy, like knotting. This one is very spectacular though.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] need a clue
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Thank you.

-----Original Message-----

De,

It looks like fly-fringe,  What a beautiful dress.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] need a clue


> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm#
> 
> what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve?
> 
> De
> 


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@grapevine.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
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Aylwen,
What you actually want is called  pattern grading if you Google that you
might have more success (you'll probably find techniques for modern garments
that you should hopefully be able to adapt for your pattern).
Elizabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Wednesday, 17 December 2008 4:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns.
I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes
as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my
measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from
an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
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http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/ho_32.132.htm#

Browsing the met stuff, found this.  Too cool!

Sg
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On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 7:57 AM, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>wrote:

>
> On Nov 21, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>
>> Wow indeed.
>>
>> Also of interest, this appears to be a promo for the upcoming movie
>> version of Coraline, an absolutely brilliant children's novel by Neil
>> Gaiman. (If you've never read it, I would strongly recommend the audiobook
>> version, which captivated me on a very long car trip a few years ago.)
>>
>
> I would add that, while brilliant, this book is pretty creepy and not
> really suitable for young kids.
>
> Looking forward to the movie!
>
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>

Has anyone else had trouble opening this site? It's been stuck on 63 for
about five minutes now. I'm at work with the heavy-duty server, so I know
it's not that making the going so slow.

LynnD
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As to your question: is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?

I may be over generalizing, but I think every garment manufacturer and pattern company on the planet uses a different one. Period garments from before, say, 1960 (again, generalizing) weren't designed to fit with the same ease as modern garments, so modern measurement tables may not be appropriate anyway.



Claudine



----- Original Message ----
From: Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:42:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
patterns from an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw Helmet
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That is one over the top sun bonnet, you bet!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 11:03 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Straw Helmet








http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/ho_32.132.htm#

Browsing the met stuff, found this.  Too cool!

Sg
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <deb@mantua-maker.com>
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There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases.

My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can 
usually find something close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very close.

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   Upcoming, Spring 2009:
          Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions & Uses
   www.mantua-maker.com
   http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com


Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
patterns from an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html

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Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to
fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure
that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm
drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing
a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage
them to wear period undergarments?
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Ph/sms 0409 817 623



On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 7:07 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
<deb@mantua-maker.com> wrote:
> There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one
> part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases.
>
> My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price
> and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something
> close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very
> close.
>
> Happy sewing,
>  Deb Salisbury
>  The Mantua-Maker
>  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
>  Renaissance to Victorian
>  Upcoming, Spring 2009:
>         Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names,
> Definitions & Uses
>  www.mantua-maker.com
>  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com
>
>
> Dear List
> I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
> gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
> other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
> And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
> When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
> my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
> patterns from an extant garment.
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
> Bye for now,
>
> Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> http://www.regencyreproductions.com
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
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Depends on your goal. If you want to *approximate* a period look, then you can draft it to be worn over modern undergarments, but it will only approximate the historic look. If you want it to look properly historic, the patterns must be drafted to be worn over the historic undergarments. Regency is tricky, to my eye if the best attempt at the historic look isn't made, the dress just looks like a modern, empire waist gown.



FWIW,
Claudine



----- Original Message ----
From: Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 1:40:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to
fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure
that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm
drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing
a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage
them to wear period undergarments?
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Ph/sms 0409 817 623



On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 7:07 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
<deb@mantua-maker.com> wrote:
> There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one
> part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases.
>
> My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price
> and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something
> close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very
> close.
>
> Happy sewing,
>  Deb Salisbury
>  The Mantua-Maker
>  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
>  Renaissance to Victorian
>  Upcoming, Spring 2009:
>         Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names,
> Definitions & Uses
>  www.mantua-maker.com
>  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com
>
>
> Dear List
> I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
> gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
> other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
> And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
> When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
> my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
> patterns from an extant garment.
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
> Bye for now,
>
> Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> http://www.regencyreproductions.com
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Hi,
	I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan sewing machine - but I
could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one? I'll pay you for a
photocopy of it!
	thanks!
	
	-Judy Mitchell
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
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Have you checked singer.com?  You can probably download 
the manual for free from them.

Karen

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:53:19 -0500
  Judy Mitchell <judymitch@theoldforest.net> wrote:
> Hi,
> 	I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan sewing 
>machine - but I
> could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one? 
>I'll pay you for a
> photocopy of it!
> 	thanks!
> 	
> 	-Judy Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Karen Heim wrote:
> Have you checked singer.com?  You can probably download the manual for
> free from them.
> 
>
thanks, Karen. They say they do, but the page doesn't work. I'll give
them a call tomorrow. Gee, I wonder if I can find any of the accessories
for it: I'd love to get a buttonholer after all the talk about how great
the old singers were for buttonholing (I hate doing buttonholes, and my
Kenmore isn't too fond of them either).

	-Judy Mitchell
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>Gee, I wonder if I can find any of the accessories
> for it: I'd love to get a buttonholer after all the talk about how great
> the old singers were for buttonholing (I hate doing buttonholes, and my
> Kenmore isn't too fond of them either).

I got a buttonholer kit for my Singer 220 from eBay, of all places, at a 
good price. Why not check there?

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert 


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Don't know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up or
down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Kind of hit or miss, but
sizes up proportionally.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns.
I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes
as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my
measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from
an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html
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In a message dated 12/17/2008 4:47:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com writes:

Regency  is tricky, to my eye if the best attempt at the historic look isn't 
made, the  dress just looks like a modern, empire waist gown.



********************
 
Agreed. There's the way the breasts are raised, and supported from  
underneath that a modern bra just doesn't do. And the general posture is changed  with 
a corset. Even a loose corded corset that is snug but not binding will  change 
the body so it is round at the waist. Naturally, looking down from the  top, 
one is oval, with the long way from side to side, at the waist.  Even the 
gentle snugness of a light corset makes this shape round and thus  looking 
narrower at the waist if viewed from the front (or the back). Of  course now it is 
wider at the waist if viewed from the side, but fortunately,  one usually has 
arms there to obscure this fact.
 
I've seen costume Regency gowns that had lightly boned linings cut along  the 
lines of the corset.... with gussets at the bust...that give a good shape.  
The actual gowns were cut completely differently.... sorta mounted on a  corset 
like foundation. Also popular with costumers of this period is a  slip-like 
undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all  sewn 
together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the  natural 
waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the  period.  
A sheer gown can be worn over this.
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
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In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Don't  know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up  or
down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode.


************
 
Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenly....but this is  a 
good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily.
 
The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce:  
Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2  places. 
It's easy....don't be put off by the math.
 
Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get  out 
your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divide....and put  
in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces 
and  you're blowing it up 140%.
 
It works the other way too.
 
The size of the bust in the pattern is 40". You need it to be 35". Put in  
the NEW size 1st: 35". Now divide by the old size: 40". And you get 0.875. Move  
the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%.
 
Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD size....move decimal 2 spaces to  the 
right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if  
you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making  
something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the  
decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW SIZE  1ST!!!!)
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Subject: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment
	- question]
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----- Original Message ----
From: "AlbertCat@aol.com" <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:10:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

...

Also popular with costumers of this period is a  slip-like 
undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all  sewn 
together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the  natural 
waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the  period.  
A sheer gown can be worn over this.

...

Albert,

There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like to know.



Claudine

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cool beans!



Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenly....but this is  a
good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily.

The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce:
Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2  places.
It's easy....don't be put off by the math.

Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get  out
your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divide....and put
in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces
and  you're blowing it up 140%.

It works the other way too.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
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		Hi, =


You can download a manual for the Spartan from Singer at this site, just pu=
t the model number (i.e. 192) in the search box:

http://www.singerco.com/accessories/manuals.html

It will use a set standard low shank accessories that you can buy=A0on
ebay.
Dennis




      __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! =


http://www.flickr.com/gift/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique
 garment - question]
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>...
>
>Also popular with costumers of this period is a  slip-like
>undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all  sewn
>together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the  natural
>waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of 
>the  period.
>A sheer gown can be worn over this.
>
>...
>
>Albert,
>
>There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that 
>includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced 
>petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. 
>The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets 
>and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my 
>friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with 
>proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high 
>enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's 
>notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has 
>for it, but would like to know.

When Hunnisett wrote the book she had no justification for the 
particular pattern that she worked out. (She said the it just seemed 
to be the most practical solution!) However, since then, there have 
been examples that I have seen on E Bay and in occasional museum 
pictures. In any case, none of the extant garments appear, on my 
screen anyway, to have been boned or corded.

Suzi 

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique
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I knew someone once who was very busty and made one of these with a corded bodice to wear under italian ren....sneaky little devil..lol

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Wed, 12/17/08, cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com <cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com <cw15147-hcost00@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 8:44 PM




----- Original Message ----
From: "AlbertCat@aol.com" <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:10:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

...

Also popular with costumers of this period is a  slip-like 
undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all  sewn 
together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the  natural 
waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the 
period.  
A sheer gown can be worn over this.

...

Albert,

There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes
the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't
offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less
like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt
attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and
with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to
get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this
garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like
to know.



Claudine

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Thanks, Dennis! I understand there's also a manual for the 99/99k that 
is pretty much the same as the Spartan, except it's a bigger manual and 
explains how to use the accessories (should I find some) and how to 
service the machine. I'll look into that as well.
	-Judy Mitchell

d m wrote:
> 		Hi, 
> 
> You can download a manual for the Spartan from Singer at this site, just put the model number (i.e. 192) in the search box:
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Australia--movie
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Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"?  The San Francisco Chronicle 
panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together 
well.  I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
New book on 1820s dressmaking, corset making, and millinery!
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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I saw it last week.

Long?  Yes.

Got lost in telling the story?  Yes.

DId I enjoy it?  Yes!

Beautiful scenery with the human rights issue worked into it, as well.

Susan
NJ


On Dec 18, 08, at 12:23 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"?  The San Francisco  
> Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not  
> coming together well.  I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> New book on 1820s dressmaking, corset making, and millinery!
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
>> ...
>>
>> Also popular with costumers of this period is a  slip-like
>> undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all  
>> sewn
>> together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the  
>> natural
>> waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of 
>> the  period.
>> A sheer gown can be worn over this.
>>


There are two issues here. One is supporting a petticoat at a level 
above the natural waist, to match that of the dress bodice and help the 
skirt to hang correctly.  The other is bust support/body shaping.

The late 1820s sources I researched for _The Lady's Stratagem_ indicated 
a method of supporting the petticoat by shoulder straps, which I've also 
seen occasionally on petticoats sold on eBay.

As for body shaping, I found instructions for 13 styles of stays and put 
them all in the book. These include half-stays, which go only an inch or 
two below the bottoms of the bosom gores/gussets. Half-stays can be made 
with variations that enable the wearer to put on the stays more easily, 
involving either wide straps or narrow lacings that cross from back to 
front. The style of short stays that includes the straplike self-lacing 
arrangement, is the kind people who see them in museum catalogs tend to 
describe as "like a sports bra."  However, half-stays were also made 
without self-lacing arrangements, and all the self-lacing arrangements 
could be used on full-length stays.

Short stays, with or without a self-lacing arrangement, are recommended 
specifically for morning wear (and for early pregnancy). The 
middle-class female routine of getting dressed is described in great 
detail, garment by garment and accessory by accessory. The assumption 
was that even the middle-class housewife got dressed several times a 
day. When she got up, she "helped with the first household tasks of the 
day," not specified in the sources I used, but it seems by inference 
they included helping a servant or servants to prepare breakfast, and 
I'd guess some other housework. For this she wore a costume to be seen 
only by the immediate family, under which she wore her half-stays. After 
these morning tasks were done, she dressed again, this time putting on 
her full stays and her garments for either doing morning errands or 
staying at home, depending on her schedule.  This second costume was 
usually not fancy, but it was publicly presentable.

Note that I am not saying that reenactors who prefer to wear half-stays 
in public are "inauthentic," and that they shouldn't do it, etc. I'm 
just saying that half-stays seem to have had specific uses in the 1820s.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on making 1820s clothing!
http://www.lavoltapress.com











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Brilliant!! We're really lucky that we have so many professionals on this
list to guide us through some of this stuff. I knew there had to be a
percentage to use, but I'm just not math-savvy enough to have figured it
out.

Thanks, AlbertCat!

On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 5:27 PM, <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:

>
> In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sharon@collierfam.com writes:
>
> Don't  know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up
>  or
> down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode.
>
>
> ************
>
> Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenly....but this is
>  a
> good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily.
>
> The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce:
> Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2
>  places.
> It's easy....don't be put off by the math.
>
> Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get
>  out
> your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divide....and
> put
> in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces
> and  you're blowing it up 140%.
>
> It works the other way too.
>
> The size of the bust in the pattern is 40". You need it to be 35". Put in
> the NEW size 1st: 35". Now divide by the old size: 40". And you get 0.875.
> Move
> the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%.
>
> Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD size....move decimal 2 spaces to
>  the
> right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if
> you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making
> something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the
> decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW
> SIZE  1ST!!!!)
>  **************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail,
> Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-d
> p&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)
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> Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"?  The San Francisco Chronicle
> panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together
> well.  I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews?
>
> > _______________________________________________


I haven't seen it yet, but my mom has and she said it was fabulous!  She did 
say to buy your soda before the movie starts if you have a large bladder. 
Skip drinks all together if you don't! There is no opportunity to go fetch a 
beverage or visit the head w/o missing something.   It is long, but she said 
you don't notice at all because you are completely involved with what is on 
the screen.  Remember intermissions?

Denise
Iowa 

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From: "Wilson, Annette" <Annette.Wilson@environment.gov.au>
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Fran wrote:.......

Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"?  The San Francisco Chronicle 
panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together 
well.  I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews?
-----------
Germaine Greer wrote a scathing review (which you can probably find on
line) criticising it for everything including its protrayal of both
Aboriginals and drovers. The only thing she didn't comment on was the
costumes, except for the implausibility of a drover wearing a tuxedo :-)

Annette Wilson (in Australia)



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Subject: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
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Dear h-costume
Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for
this regency gown at
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8
or is able to help me with translation?

Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Upcoming Events:
Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008
Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>Dear h-costume
>Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for
>this regency gown at
>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8
>or is able to help me with translation?

What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical 
terms on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is 
about the dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have 
the series of books this pattern is taken from

Suzi 

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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 09:52:22 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Suzi
I'm keen to translate the text on the pdf pattern. Most of it seems
pretty self-explanatory, but it is the unknown that frustrates me.
I'm learning tambour embroidery and hope to replicate the design on the skirt.
Does the book have any English translations? I have it on order but
won't get it for a few weeks.
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Upcoming Events:
Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008
Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au




On Fri, Dec 19, 2008 at 9:27 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>>
>> Dear h-costume
>> Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for
>> this regency gown at
>> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8
>> or is able to help me with translation?
>
> What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical terms
> on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is about the
> dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have the series of
> books this pattern is taken from
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I 
must have it, it looks sooo good!

Hanna

At 23:27 18.12.2008, you wrote:
>At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>>Dear h-costume
>>Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for
>>this regency gown at
>>http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8
>>or is able to help me with translation?
>
>What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical 
>terms on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is 
>about the dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have 
>the series of books this pattern is taken from
>
>Suzi
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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At 22:54 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I 
>must have it, it looks sooo good!


As far as I was aware the books are out of print, but as Aylwen says 
she has one on order they may not be. My copies were from a 
remaindered pile in Copenhagen - a gift from a Danish friend. I'll go 
and find the titles tomorrow - late now.

Suzi

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At 22:52 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi
>I'm keen to translate the text on the pdf pattern. Most of it seems
>pretty self-explanatory, but it is the unknown that frustrates me.
>I'm learning tambour embroidery and hope to replicate the design on the skirt.
>Does the book have any English translations? I have it on order but
>won't get it for a few weeks.
>Bye for now,

I was not aware that the books were still in print - that's 
interesting. No, the pictures and patterns have a summary in English, 
and there are a few pages at the back, as I remember, but the main 
text is in Danish. I have had mine for many years, and generally 
don't worry about the text. It's late here, I'll get my copy out 
tomorrow some time, but I don't think you really need that much translating.

Suzi

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Danish books with patterns
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are probably:

Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1700=96Arene. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1977.
Danish history of costume that contains scale drafts, close-ups of =

period garments, and period illustrations. Worthwhile even if you don't =

read Danish.

Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1790=961840. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1986.
In the same series as Andersen's Moden 1700=96Arene, with the same format.

Bech, Viben. Moden 1840=961890. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1989.
In the same series as Ellen Andersen's Moden 1700=96Arene, with the same =

format.

The captions are translated into English, but there are no assembly =

instructions for the patterns.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s dressmaking and corset making!
http://www.lavoltapress.om
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:12:56 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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I found my book on an obscure site, it was the last one. I've not been
able to find it anywhere else, and will believe it when I see it. Paid
by credit card so can query it if it doesn't turn up.
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Upcoming Events:
Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008
Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au




On Fri, Dec 19, 2008 at 10:41 AM, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 22:54 18/12/2008, you wrote:
>>
>> Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I must
>> have it, it looks sooo good!
>
>
> As far as I was aware the books are out of print, but as Aylwen says she has
> one on order they may not be. My copies were from a remaindered pile in
> Copenhagen - a gift from a Danish friend. I'll go and find the titles
> tomorrow - late now.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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The Spartan is a 3/4 size Singer, much like the 66 (full size) or 99  
( 3/4 size).  It takes standard short shank feet, which are still sold  
at JoAnn and other stores.  It does not have zig-zag so needs the old  
green-case  buttonholer (which does work great, BTW).  You can easily  
find these for just a couple bucks on ebay quite freqently.   Item  
number 400017712136 is a current auction on ebay for one now, so you  
can see what you want.
The buttonholers in the oval maroon case are for the slant shank  
machines like the 301, not what you have.  You almost don't need a  
manual for this machine, but you can also go to the group wefixit or  
vintagesinger on yahoo and get all the info you need.  Old Singer  
machines are great, sew the best straight stitch out there, and you  
can't kill them with sewing, oh, say, tents out of canvas, for  
example, which is something my one modern machine would never be able  
to handle.  Enjoy your machine. (Can you tell I have a bunch of them? 
<g>)
-Megan

On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:53 PM, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> Hi,
> 	I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan sewing machine - but I
> could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one? I'll pay you  
> for a
> photocopy of it!
> 	thanks!
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Bjarne might help you with the translation, but I think you can figure out quite a lot when you take a Danish dictionary (available on-line) and translate most of the words. The word order might be similar as in German and some words are similar to English. 
This site is wonderful, I might also try to translate some of the text on the pattern drafts! 

Zuzana


      
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I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 - I am making these for a friend who will use them for Thai Chi....any suggestions for a pant pattern?  I am considering these:  http://www.folkwear.com/112.html

Sg
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what about 119?   several styles of loose pants with different types of 
ankle treatments.

Denise



>
> I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 - I am 
> making these for a friend who will use them for Thai Chi....any 
> suggestions for a pant pattern?  I am considering these: 
> http://www.folkwear.com/112.html
>

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Folkwear 145 (Chinese pajamas) has trousers that are more like the  
ones my tai chi instructor wore, and a bit more polished than the  
ones I wore when I was taking tai chi. The fit in the leg looks  
better than the other styles proposed so far. You might want to  
insert a gusset in the crotch to give the greatest freedom of movement.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Dec 19, 2008, at 12:28 PM, Land of Oz wrote:

> what about 119?   several styles of loose pants with different  
> types of ankle treatments.
>
> Denise
>
>
>
>>
>> I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 -  
>> I am making these for a friend who will use them for Thai  
>> Chi....any suggestions for a pant pattern?  I am considering  
>> these: http://www.folkwear.com/112.html
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Megan, that's great info! thanks. I was looking on ebay and getting
confused. I saw the green and maroon cases, but no idea what the
difference between them was. So.. the green case gizmo will do both
zig-zag and buttonholes? I noticed a number of other sellers who had
quite an assortment of metal bits and pieces. but none of them ever
mention low, high or slant shank.. which doesn't help. But I do remember
seeing those two oval ones.

I know these are considered virtually indestructable, so if I put in a
leather needle, this puppy will sew my leather Saami belt (caribou
leather with a wool felt facing, bound with thinner reindeer leather)?
that would be great! My kenmore was not happy trying to put the edge
binding on.

This will be exciting. Thanks for the info!

	-Judy Mitchell

Megan wrote:Megan <megan@benchite.com>
> The Spartan is a 3/4 size Singer, much like the 66 (full size) or 99
> ( 3/4 size).  It takes standard short shank feet, which are still sold
> at JoAnn and other stores.  It does not have zig-zag so needs the old
> green-case  buttonholer (which does work great, BTW).  You can easily
> find these for just a couple bucks on ebay quite freqently.   Item
> number 400017712136 is a current auction on ebay for one now, so you
> can see what you want.
> The buttonholers in the oval maroon case are for the slant shank
> machines like the 301, not what you have.  You almost don't need a
> manual for this machine, but you can also go to the group wefixit or
> vintagesinger on yahoo and get all the info you need.  Old Singer
> machines are great, sew the best straight stitch out there, and you
> can't kill them with sewing, oh, say, tents out of canvas, for
> example, which is something my one modern machine would never be able
> to handle.  Enjoy your machine. (Can you tell I have a bunch of them?
> <g>)
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http://www.sakuramartialarts.com/Martial_Arts_Chinese_Uniforms_s/87.htm

http://tinyurl.com/4gmc8y
For a rough idea of what you are looking for if you are aiming for
traditional style.

De

-----Original Message-----
Folkwear 145 (Chinese pajamas) has trousers that are more like the ones my
tai chi instructor wore, and a bit more polished than the ones I wore when I
was taking tai chi. The fit in the leg looks better than the other styles
proposed so far. You might want to insert a gusset in the crotch to give the
greatest freedom of movement.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


>> I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 -
>> I am making these for a friend who will use them for Thai
>> Chi....any suggestions for a pant pattern?  I am considering
>> these: http://www.folkwear.com/112.html


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Try this site for the image I had in mind:
http://www.taichilink.co.uk/us/suits_us.html

--Ruth Anne

On Dec 19, 2008, at 2:47 PM, otsisto wrote:

> http://www.sakuramartialarts.com/Martial_Arts_Chinese_Uniforms_s/ 
> 87.htm
>
> http://tinyurl.com/4gmc8y
> For a rough idea of what you are looking for if you are aiming for
> traditional style.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Folkwear 145 (Chinese pajamas) has trousers that are more like the  
> ones my
> tai chi instructor wore, and a bit more polished than the ones I  
> wore when I
> was taking tai chi. The fit in the leg looks better than the other  
> styles
> proposed so far. You might want to insert a gusset in the crotch to  
> give the
> greatest freedom of movement.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
>
>>> I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 -
>>> I am making these for a friend who will use them for Thai
>>> Chi....any suggestions for a pant pattern?  I am considering
>>> these: http://www.folkwear.com/112.html
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
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Aylwen,
I would build a corselet into the gown's bodice.  It's a period thing
to do (if the wearer isnt too zoftig) and it gives the correct
high-bust silhouette.  Your performers get period appropriate modesty
(er, more or less) and reasonable support.  They also *must* wear the
correct undergarment as it's built in.  Ha!  You can trick them into
it!
You can find a croquis for a bib-front gown c1803 in the patterns
section of Blanche Payne's book.  While I rather doubt your antique is
the same style, this one will show you some methods to attach the
corselet inside the gown.
This isnt a solution for all age groups or body types, but as you've
said they're performing dancers, I've assumed a certain level of
mobility & body carriage.

Wont you please post a photo (or two) of your antique?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

----- Original Message ----
From: Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 1:40:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to
fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure
that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm
drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing
a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage
them to wear period undergarments?
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
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If you don't have one by the spring, bring it to Costume-con, & I'll show you how I'd work with it. :)

Ann in CG

> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:53 PM, Judy Mitchell wrote:
> 
> I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan
> sewing machine - but I
> > could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one?
> I'll pay you for a photocopy of it!
> > 	thanks!


      
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual-Spartan
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Umm - the green buttonholer does not do zig-zag stitching for seams,  
just buttonholes with the little disks in it. There is a zig-zag  
attachment you can get as well.
Happy sewing.
-Megan

On Dec 19, 2008, at 1:25 PM, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> Megan, that's great info! thanks. I was looking on ebay and getting
> confused. I saw the green and maroon cases, but no idea what the
> difference between them was. So.. the green case gizmo will do both
> zig-zag and buttonholes? I noticed a number of other sellers who had
> quite an assortment of metal bits and pieces. but none of them ever
> mention low, high or slant shank.. which doesn't help. But I do  
> remember
> seeing those two oval ones.
>
> I know these are considered virtually indestructable, so if I put in a
> leather needle, this puppy will sew my leather Saami belt (caribou
> leather with a wool felt facing, bound with thinner reindeer leather)?
> that would be great! My kenmore was not happy trying to put the edge
> binding on.
>
> This will be exciting. Thanks for the info!
>
> 	-Judy Mitchell
>
> Megan wrote:Megan <megan@benchite.com>
>> The Spartan is a 3/4 size Singer, much like the 66 (full size) or 99
>> ( 3/4 size).  It takes standard short shank feet, which are still  
>> sold
>> at JoAnn and other stores.  It does not have zig-zag so needs the old
>> green-case  buttonholer (which does work great, BTW).  You can easily
>> find these for just a couple bucks on ebay quite freqently.   Item
>> number 400017712136 is a current auction on ebay for one now, so you
>> can see what you want.
>> The buttonholers in the oval maroon case are for the slant shank
>> machines like the 301, not what you have.  You almost don't need a
>> manual for this machine, but you can also go to the group wefixit or
>> vintagesinger on yahoo and get all the info you need.  Old Singer
>> machines are great, sew the best straight stitch out there, and you
>> can't kill them with sewing, oh, say, tents out of canvas, for
>> example, which is something my one modern machine would never be able
>> to handle.  Enjoy your machine. (Can you tell I have a bunch of them?
>> <g>)
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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
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I'll give it a shot (Bjarne can correct me where/if I'm wrong):


A white bride

Bridesdresses have hot always been white. It was first at the end of the 18=
th century, that the white bride with veil and garland became fashionable. =
Until then you always got married in your best clothes. There have never be=
en any firm rules for, what a bridesdress should look like. The cut of the =
dress, fabrics, colour and length followed the fashion of the times. From t=
he end of the 18th century white has dominated bridal fashion, at least for=
 those that could afford it. This custom has remained until our times, also=
 in periods where the white colour wasn't fashionable in other dresses. Amo=
ng peasants and the common townspeople a black bridesdress has been the mos=
t common. It was not just a question of economy, but also of tradition. In =
that part of the population white did not belong: white was for the posh. T=
he fashionable white chemise dress of nettle cloth - fabric of nettle fibre=
s - has probably been worn by the baroness Eleonora Sophie Rantzau
 (born 1779), when she in 1797 got married to the county count Preben Bille=
-Brahe, Hvedholm.

Description of the garment
The dress consists of skirt and bodice. The skirt has a coarse white embroi=
dery at the bottom. The very short bodice is lined and has an internal laci=
ng in front. At the back the fabric is pleated at the waist. The front part=
s are gathered at the waist, go up over the shoulders and meet in a point o=
n the bakc, where they form a collar-like [bes=E6tning =3D decoration???]. =
The skirt is tied in front. The sleeves are half-length and lined. The skir=
t is long and with a train at the back. =


Dress, white [moll =3D ?], Museum number W.8.h
Nettle cloth, i.e. fabric of nettle fibres. White, with white embroidery.
Skirt, Length at the back: 135 cm
Skirt, length at the front: 113 cm


Hope this helps,
Lena


--- On Thu, 18/12/08, Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Aylwen Garden <aylwengg@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thursday, 18 December, 2008, 11:17 PM
> Dear h-costume
> Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern
> instructions for
> this regency gown at
> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=3D8
> or is able to help me with translation?
> =

> Bye for now,
> =

> Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> =

> Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
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      =

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Hey Judy, please email me. I >think< I may have a manual...and yes they 
thru most things...
Ta
Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Australia--movie
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>From an Australian living in Australia:

It looks like a rabid version of the flag-wavers Chips Rafferty made in the 
1940s.

Visually, it is very good so long as you do not mind a parade of film and 
cultural cliches.

The plot is senseless and, although that does not matter if a story is well-
told, this is not well-told. It's full of solemn joy, stereotypes that belong 
in bad newsreels, historically innaccurate racism aimed at making the film 
makers feel good, pointless nobility regarding the nature of nature, and 
product placement.

The only thing more parched than the desert is Kidman's forehead. Even 
Jackman's warmth and talent cannot save this mess.

Oh, and if toughened stockmen and others were to have danced they way they do 
in Darwin when it rains, they would not only have been run out of town, they 
would have been run out of town soaking wet as it rains well and often in that 
city.

In short, I asked for my free ticket back,

-C.


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This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 17:34:42 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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Hi there,
I've started posting a few photos from my collection in an old blog I
found unused today at http://www.reproductions.blogspot.com
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Upcoming Events:
Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 06:13:38 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Nativity Scene in 3-D
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I have placed online photos of the nativity scene from our church.  I think you will enjoy it!  There are 44 photos made into 3-D with a piece of software from Microsoft called Photosynth.  You do have to sign up and download the software/ freeware http://photosynth.net/ and then view it on the web.  The software views best in Internet Explorer.  Once you have downloaded the software, go a search on the Photosnyth website for "costumegallery" and click on the "Epiphany Church Nativity Scene."  

My photos are large, so that you can zoom in really close and view all the details.  So if you have an older computer with little RAM, the slideshow might not work for you.  I do encourage you to play with the software.  You can do all kinds of things with the images.  

I put the nativity scene online because it is truly amazing and so much work was put into the details.  The scene's setting is the city of Bethlehem and takes up two whole walls of the chapel.  There are several homes in the village.  You can zoom in so close that you can see the individual foods items served at the dinner table of one home.  The entire village is in miniature.  

As for costumes...I hope you enjoy the costumes represented in the numerous figurines.

Happy holidays to all!  
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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The captions are already translated into English. There are no assembly 
instructions in either language as I recall.

Fran

Tania Gruning wrote:
> If anyone need translations, I would be more than happy to help. Don't have the books, so you would have to scan and send me the relevant pages
> 
> Tania
>
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I am writing on behalf of a friend who is interested in doing some Byzantine woman's headresses. She can only find a few basic styles (I think she's actually only found one!) and is interested in sources which might show her different options. Does anyone here know of places which would be good to search?
 
Karen
Seamstrix
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Click for  FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide
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At 18:44 26/12/2008, you wrote:
>The captions are already translated into English. There are no 
>assembly instructions in either language as I recall.

There are some "labels" on the patterns, and if you don't speak or 
read Danish it would be useful to have them translated. I have a 
Danish/English dictionary, but still need the help of my Danish 
friend with some of the more sewing related terms.

Suzi


>Fran
>
>Tania Gruning wrote:
>>If anyone need translations, I would be more than happy to help. 
>>Don't have the books, so you would have to scan and send me the relevant pages
>>Tania
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>From my course in Early Christian history, the costumes of that time were richly decorated with pearls, rubies and other gems. These were representative of the chest plate from the tribe of Joshua. Justinian and Theodora were some of the most known Byzantian royality. During this time, Byzantium was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, due to Constintine learning/following Christianity. He converted on his death bed but not earlier. The Christian church had been in Rome but was moved to Constantinople/Byzantium. This caused a great rift in the Christian leaders and a power struggle followed.
The rich costuming can be researched through the colors and the use of gems thru iconography and lexicon books. I'd suggest finding a portrait or mural image and trying to replicate it's style. It doesn't have to be exact due to the cost of such an enterprise, but there are great fake gems that can give the same effect. 
A good suggestion would be to find someone connected with a Greek Orthodox Church. Their branch of Chritianity is pretty much the same as during this time period. The Virgin Mary was the patriarch of Byzantium and protector of the city. Someone from within the Greek Orthodox belief might give you more examples of the costuming and the meaning behind them. What I couldn't find for my research paper came from such a man who was more than happy to share the glory of the meanings of the Christian iconography and meanings that are lost in so many religious ceremonies today. That was the best clas I ever had. It taught the course as fact thru the art and buildings, not a theological aspect. It gave the history of the period and how the symbols came into existance and how they changed over the years.I learned quite a bit about early Christian history that wasn't taught in Sunday school. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: penhalion@juno.com> Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 21:10:01 +0000> To:!
  h-costume@indra.com> Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Headresses> > > I am writing on behalf of a friend who is interested in doing some Byzantine woman's headresses. She can only find a few basic styles (I think she's actually only found one!) and is interested in sources which might show her different options. Does anyone here know of places which would be good to search?> > Karen> Seamstrix> ____________________________________________________________> Click for FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1fTGjHBEK8KkVNOzw1knq9MAAXOZGR23feYZFjhESBvKmOU/> _______________________________________________> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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What did everyone get?

In my case not a whole lot. I asked my husband for several costume 
books, but when he gets off schedule he does this distributed Christmas 
thing, where stuff arrives any time before February. He did give me a 
copy of Cally Oldershaw's _Gems of the World_ (a reasonably substantive 
guide for the amateur), and a 135-carat madeira citrine pendant in a 
plain silver setting.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing!
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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On Saturday 27 December 2008 2:51:43 pm Lavolta Press wrote:
> What did everyone get?

I got a pair of Viking-era tortoise brooches and a trefoil brooch from 
Raymond's Quiet Press.

Pictures here:
http://www.quietpress.com/Images4/X-35b.JPG
http://www.quietpress.com/images2/VB-33.JPG

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding." --Ben "Yahtzee" Crenshaw


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     I got PoF4 (and I'm soooo happy!) and  new "graphicating" software for
my computer that I can actually understand, for doing up patterns and
classnotes and such...
   And a Black Hills gold watch and a new blender, which are kewl but not as
fun.  ;-)

Liadain

"You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 12:52 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts

What did everyone get?

In my case not a whole lot. I asked my husband for several costume 
books, but when he gets off schedule he does this distributed Christmas 
thing, where stuff arrives any time before February. He did give me a 
copy of Cally Oldershaw's _Gems of the World_ (a reasonably substantive 
guide for the amateur), and a 135-carat madeira citrine pendant in a 
plain silver setting.

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing!
http://www.lavoltapress.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Well, I never get anything costume related from my friends and family. But  I 
do sew for them every year. Last year was very successful. I made long (to 
the  floor) robes out of cotton batiks. Everyone loved theirs. This year I'm 
back to  short sleeve shirts out of outrageous prints. My fave is out of a fabric 
printed  with a kitchen scene of Donna Reed-like women in their 50's 
crinolines and  pearls doing housework! There's one decorating a cake, one 
cleaning.... And  one LOADING THE DISHWASHER! Who'd have thought a dishwasher would be 
printed on  a fabric much less someone loading a dishwasher? I gave that shirt 
to my friend  Lynne who hates and does not do housework....to prove that in 
fashion there  can be irony as well as ironing.
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Well, I got PoF4 (woohoo, lots of shirts & ruff info to work on), and "Pattern Cutting or Men's Costume" that I am enjoying, too. Nothing else sewing related, although my Santa honey got me an iPod Nano, so I can enjoy music wherever I go without dragging my laptop everywhere. It looks like I can enjoy the music in my sewing room by hooking that up to my current speaker setup.

I normally get at least one gift card to a fabric store, but not this year, sadly. But with some gift money, I will be buying silk fabric, reeds, and even some silver spangles to make my next big project.

Kimiko


--- On Sat, 12/27/08, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> What did everyone get?
> 
<snip>


      
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  How very cool - sounds like a fabric that would make spiff d=E9cor in my =
50s
kitchen! :-)

Liadain

"You get a wonderful view from the point of no return..."
wildernesse, the Outlands =

http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 1:41 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts

Well, I never get anything costume related from my friends and family. But
I =

do sew for them every year. Last year was very successful. I made long (to =

the  floor) robes out of cotton batiks. Everyone loved theirs. This year I'm

back to  short sleeve shirts out of outrageous prints. My fave is out of a
fabric =

printed  with a kitchen scene of Donna Reed-like women in their 50's =

crinolines and  pearls doing housework! There's one decorating a cake, one =

cleaning.... And  one LOADING THE DISHWASHER! Who'd have thought a
dishwasher would be =

printed on  a fabric much less someone loading a dishwasher? I gave that
shirt =

to my friend  Lynne who hates and does not do housework....to prove that in =

fashion there  can be irony as well as ironing.


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I had a very costume-related Christmas, unusually.  Between Christmas 
and my birthday, a week earlier, I got all the back issues of Medieval 
Clothing and Textiles, so now I'll have to sort out buying the new 
issues when they come out.  I also got "Woven Into the Earth" (the book 
of all the Greenland textile discoveries - Hjerolfsnes and others).  And 
a fantastic book from my sister, who is a librarian and bibliovore - not 
deliberately costume-related, but I'm sure the pictures will come in 
handy.  It's called "Women who Read are Dangerous", and it's an art 
history of women's literacy - pictures of women reading, from a 13th 
century Annunciation to a photo of Marilyn Monroe, with commentary on 
the cultural context of women reading in that time. 

Now I just have to learn to read and sew at the same time so I can get 
through all of this and the projects I have to do!

Jean

Lavolta Press wrote:
> What did everyone get?
>
> In my case not a whole lot. I asked my husband for several costume 
> books, but when he gets off schedule he does this distributed 
> Christmas thing, where stuff arrives any time before February. He did 
> give me a copy of Cally Oldershaw's _Gems of the World_ (a reasonably 
> substantive guide for the amateur), and a 135-carat madeira citrine 
> pendant in a plain silver setting.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> New book on 1820s clothing!
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 11:54:05 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Missing pattern instructions PP #031
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Dear All
I have lost my instructions for the Past Patterns 1796-1806 gown. Can
anyone share with me the important bits I need to know to complete the
gown? I still have all the pattern pieces.
Many thanks,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Upcoming Events:
Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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I also got PoF4, also three others (one of them has yet to be 
delivered - but I got a printout of the B&N listing):
         Gothic:  Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele, et. al.  from an 
FIT museum exhibit, with lots of background text.
         Brilliance!  Masterpieces from the American Jewelry Design 
Council, by Cindy Edelstein and Frank Stankus - It's an album of 
pieces from each year's Design Project, where they ask jewelry 
designers to design a piece around a given theme.  Lots of really 
avant-garde stuff.  (I asked for this one as I have done a bit of 
jewelry making and would like to do more - maybe when I retire...)
         Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques, by Jill 
Salen  (I first heard about this on this list, and it sounded cool, 
as I need to make a few more of these in the upcoming months...)

It was a bookish Christmas - I also got 4 fiction titles on my 
list.  One more costume-ish thing - a round box made with a wire 
frame covered with pale blue crystal organza and a bow - styled like 
a hatbox but somewhat smaller.  Don't know yet what I'll use it for - 
the person who gave it to me said it reminded her of my costumes...

Sandy

P.S. - Fran, the pendant sounds lovely!!

At 01:51 PM 12/27/2008, you wrote:
>What did everyone get?
>
>In my case not a whole lot. I asked my husband for several costume 
>books, but when he gets off schedule he does this distributed 
>Christmas thing, where stuff arrives any time before February. He 
>did give me a copy of Cally Oldershaw's _Gems of the World_ (a 
>reasonably substantive guide for the amateur), and a 135-carat 
>madeira citrine pendant in a plain silver setting.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>New book on 1820s clothing!
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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In a message dated 12/28/2008 1:03:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
costumrs@radiks.net writes:

a round  box made with a wire 
frame covered with pale blue crystal organza and a  bow - styled like 
a hatbox but somewhat smaller.  Don't know yet what  I'll use it for - 
the person who gave it to me said it reminded her of my  costumes


That sounds like the box that a Pajamagram comes in--while it is too small  
for a regular hat, I've found that one of my period turbans fits in it just  
fine.  (My husband has given me two, in different sizes, in the past--when  he 
heard them advertised on the radio, he said he went to see if I was using  
mine, and, of course, they have hats in them!)
 
Ann Wass
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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____________________________________
 From: ShaShalott
To: ShaShalott
Sent: 12/1/2008 7:20:09 P.M. Central  Standard Time
Subj: Fwd: CNET Download.com: Quick crops and image  resizing





  
____________________________________
 From: ShaShalott
To: ShaShalott
Sent: 11/4/2008 6:16:12 P.M. Central  Standard Time
Subj: Fwd: CNET Download.com: Quick crops and image  resizing





  
____________________________________
 From: newsletters@download.online.com
To: shashalott@aol.com
Sent:  10/7/2008 8:30:24 P.M. Central Standard Time
Subj: CNET Download.com:  Quick crops and image resizing






CNET | DOWNLOAD DISPATCH (PC  Edition)
October 7, 2008
Vol. 13, No. 40

Quick crops and  image resizing

Read the HTML version  online:
http://
ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797959-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&brand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

For  making color corrections, printing, managing photo albums, or
any of  100 other routine image-editing tasks associated
with digital  photography, commercial programs like Adobe
Photoshop or Corel Paint  Shop Pro are great solutions. But if you
just need to resize and crop  your personalized "South Park"
character image to fit on your Facebook  or MySpace page, a
simpler option is in order.

Adobe  Photoshop
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797960-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Corel  Paint Shop  Pro
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797961-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Facebook
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797962-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

MySpace
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797963-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Luckily,  there are a variety of free and easy ways to crop and
resize your  digital photographs. One of the quickest and easy
downloads for doing  so is IrfanView, a longtime-favorite image
viewer that has added more  and more editing functionality through
the  years.

IrfanView
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797964-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

The  tiny download weighs in at 1.24MB and literally can be
installed in  seconds. Once you've got it running, open the image
that you want to  edit and select Image -> Resize/Resample to edit
the size of your  photo. To crop, click your cursor in the top
left corner of the area  you want to crop, then drag the cursor to
create a rectangle. Select  Edit -> Crop Selection, and voila!

Another free application I've  become a big fan of recently is
resizr, created by Matt Miller back in  2006. resizr is a free
online tool that lets you upload an image from  your hard drive or
via a URL. You can then rotate, crop, and resize  your image,
as well as make edits to brightness and contrast. I was  impressed
to recently discover that I could even adjust levels and  convert
PNG files to  JPEGs.

resizr
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797965-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

What  do you use to quickly resize and crop digital images? Tell
me about it  in the blog.

Read  more:
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797966-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Visit  Download.com:
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797967-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

--Peter  Butler
Senior content manager

(Unsubscribe instructions are at  the bottom of this newsletter.)



IN THIS ISSUE

1.  Download launchpad
2. New releases
3. New reviews: Rockbox, Google  Chrome Backup
4. The week in Webware: Watch the presidential debates  online
5. New from CNET TV:  Keep your Windows activities  secret
6. More links from CNET Download.com     

Questions about your subscription?
Check the end of this  newsletter for  information.
______________________________________________________________

1.  Download launchpad: New products from our sponsors

Stellar Phoenix Outlook Pst Repair 2.2

Restore or  repair data from damaged or corrupted Microsoft
Outlook  files. 

http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797968-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

StatChamp for Baseball & Softball 1.0.1512

Use  all-inclusive statistics software for baseball and
softball. 

http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797969-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

iPod to Computer Transfer 4.0

Transfer iPod music,  video, and playlists back to your PC. 

http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797970-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

______________________________________________________________

2.  New releases


- QuickTime  7.5.5

http://ct.download.com/clicks?c=71798351-5106814&brand=download&ds=5

Play  MPEG-4 movies with AAC sound with latest version of Apple's
premier  media player.

-  TimeLeft 3.38

http://ct.download.com/clicks?c=71798353-5106814&brand=download&ds=5

Get  organized with a skinnable countdown, a reminder, a tray clock,
a  timer, and a sticker.

- Skype 3.8.0.180

http://ct.download.com/clicks?c=71798355-5106814&brand=download&ds=5

Experience  free, unlimited, high-quality voice communication over
the  Internet.

- Revo  Uninstaller 1.75

http://ct.download.com/clicks?c=71798357-5106814&brand=download&ds=5

Uninstall unwanted and even broken applications  accurately.




______________________________________________________________

3.  New reviews

In MP3 & AUDIO  SOFTWARE

Rockbox Utility 1.0.7
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797971-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
License: Free
File size: 3.2MB
Minimum  requirements: See list of supported devices on Web site  

Rockbox is an alternative operating system for your  iPod or
other digital media player. The new Rockbox  utility makes it
much easier to install Rockbox from your  Windows PC. The
amount of features and functionality is  very impressive, but
the alternate OS is for advanced and  determined users only.    

In  BROWSERS

Google Chrome Backup 1.1.0.22
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797972-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
License: Free
File size: 398.21K
Minimum  requirements: Windows 2000/XP/Vista, Microsoft .NET
Framework, Google Chrome

Although it's  still very early in the development life of the
new Google  Chrome browser, there's already an add-on for
backing up  your personal profile information. Although it's
mostly  limited to saving bookmarks and browsing history, it
will  likely become more valuable as Chrome develops.

In  SHELL & DESKTOP MANAGEMENT 

Transform XP to Vista  1.2
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797973-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
License: Free
File size: 10.94MB 
Minimum  requirements: Windows NT/2000/XP/2003 Server/Vista

If  you like the look of Vista, but don't want to upgrade from
XP, this suite makes it easy to emulate most aspects of
Microsoft's latest OS. It doesn't replicate the Aero  theme,
but it does combine existing XP emulations of Vista  into one
installer.

______________________________________________________________

4.  The week in Webware

Watch the U.S. presidential  debates online

Video content hub Hulu has secured the  rights to stream the
remaining two U.S. presidential  debates live on the Web. The
first of those debates starts  tonight at 9 p.m. ET. Learn
about Hulu's coverage and  other sites "hacking" debate
coverage.

http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797974-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
______________________________________________________________

5.  New on CNET TV

Keep your Vista activities  secret

Windows Vista doesn't hesitate to track your  most frequently
used programs, but it's fairly easy for  users to poke a finger
in Vista's snooping eye. Veronica  Belmont has the scoop.

http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797975-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
______________________________________________________________

6.  More from CNET Download.com

Most popular Windows  software
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797976-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

New releases in Windows
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797977-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Top-rated Windows software
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797978-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5

Windows freeware
http://ct.download.com/clicks?t=71797979-d71c37efe831ef41b09de8f2bcfd4f43-bf&b
rand=DOWNLOAD&s=5
______________________________________________________________



______________________________________________________________

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To  update your email address, please visit our Subscription  Center:
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Copyright  2008 CNET Networks, Inc., a CBS Company. All rights reserved.
CNET  Networks, Inc. 235 Second Street, San Francisco, CA 94105,  U.S.A.






 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 28 22:27:18 2008
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 13:26:59 +1000
From: "Sid Young" <sid.young@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is this an appropriate email for this group???

Also the last one about free software.... ???


Sid


On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 1:19 PM, <ShaShalott@aol.com> wrote:

> _Click here: Felonspy.com -  You need to know who your neighbors are.
> Especially if they're dangerous  criminals_ (
> http://www.felonspy.com/search.html)
> **************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail,
> Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now.
> (
> http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025
> )
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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I am so sorry. I forwarded this to the wrong email. Please forgive  me.
 
 
In a message dated 12/28/2008 9:27:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
sid.young@gmail.com writes:

Is this  an appropriate email for this group???

Also the last one about free  software.... ???


Sid


On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 1:19 PM,  <ShaShalott@aol.com> wrote:

> _Click here: Felonspy.com  -  You need to know who your neighbors are.
> Especially if they're  dangerous  criminals_ (
>  http://www.felonspy.com/search.html)
> **************One site keeps you  connected to all your email: AOL Mail,
> Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it  now.
> (
>  
http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume  mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume  mailing  list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Sid Young wrote:
> Is this an appropriate email for this group???
> 
> Also the last one about free software.... ???

ShaShalott is an infrequent but known poster at h-cost. It looks like her 
e-mail address has been hijacked and the evildoer is sending spam to everyone 
in her addressbook. It happens sometimes and is usually not the poster's fault.

Chris, if you see this, please run your virus-checker.

--Robin
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ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:
> I am so sorry. I forwarded this to the wrong email. Please forgive  me.

Oh, that's much better than the alternative. You can ignore my other e-mail!

--Robin
_______________________________________________
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Thank you Robin. I am so embarrassed over this. I will run my virus checker  
immediately. It's very possible that's what happened.
 
 
In a message dated 12/28/2008 9:33:28 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
robin@netherton.net writes:

> Is  this an appropriate email for this group???
> 
> Also the last one  about free software.... ???

ShaShalott is an infrequent but known  poster at h-cost. It looks like her 
e-mail address has been hijacked and  the evildoer is sending spam to 
everyone 
in her addressbook. It happens  sometimes and is usually not the poster's 
fault.

Chris, if you see  this, please run your  virus-checker.

--Robin

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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No worries :)


Sid

On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 1:34 PM, Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net>wrote:

> ShaShalott@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I am so sorry. I forwarded this to the wrong email. Please forgive  me.
>>
>
> Oh, that's much better than the alternative. You can ignore my other
> e-mail!
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Did anyone see the show L.A. Holidays on PBS?  The costumes of the different cultures were beautiful.  I loved the Korean drum women's costumes.

If it comes on, it is one show not to miss. Turn on the VCR! http://www.pbs.org/holidaycelebration/

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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I forgot to mention the stunning costumes worn on the PBS Mormon Tabernacle 
Choir Christmas show.  The 12 Days of Christmas was wonderful!  What a 
clever director to dress dancers in each day's character. Luckily I catch it 
this morning and videotaped it.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
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10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history. 

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Continuing a trend:  PoF4 (which I received early) and Saxon brooches
from Raymond's Quiet Press.
 
Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :).  I need to make him a little
vest......
 
Catherine
 
"good witch, bad witch, I'm still the one with the flying monkeys"
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A book, Barbara Johnson's Album...<G>
Happy, happy, happy!
Ta
Carol
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The only costume- or sewing-related gift I received this year was the
Winifred Aldrich book, Metric Cutting for Menswear -- which I *really*
wanted.

But I have more gift exchanges coming up (Twelfth Night, you know....) so
hope springs eternal...

Richard in MI
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The only costume- or sewing-related gift I received this year was the
Winifred Aldrich book, Metric Cutting for Menswear -- which I *really*
wanted.

But I have more gift exchanges coming up (Twelfth Night, you know....) so
hope springs eternal...

Richard in MI
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 18:27:14 -0600
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine headdress
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There is an article entitled, "Some notes on the external appearance  
of ordinary women in Byzantium" by M. Emmanuel, that appeared in vol.  
56 of a journal called Byzantinoslavica (1995, pp. 769-778).  I saw  
it referenced in one of Anna Muthesius' works [don't remember which  
one] and sent for it via InterLibrary Loan because my library does  
not have a subscription to this journal.  The article ends very  
abruptly and I'm wondering if I have a complete cite...

However, it does have a few line drawings of women's headdresses  
along with descriptions of the original artwork that the author  
researched so it might be of use to your friend.  And if you find out  
that there is another page or two of text, please let us know!!

HTH,
Suzanne

On Dec 27, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com>
> Date: December 26, 2008 9:10:01 PM CST
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Headresses
> ...
> I am writing on behalf of a friend who is interested in doing some  
> Byzantine woman's headresses. She can only find a few basic styles  
> (I think she's actually only found one!) and is interested in  
> sources which might show her different options. Does anyone here  
> know of places which would be good to search?
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix

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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] early 16c spanish court dress
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I know I have seen examples of=A0 1530s or so=A0 spanish court gowns but i =
cant for the life of me remember where....can anybody help?

Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance =


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7HMtOoXtMs0


      =

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Subject: [h-cost] Movie costumes
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I'm sure those of you who make costumes for customers are getting requests 
for the blue "farewell" dress worn by Susan in the Prince Caspian movie. 
I've been trying to find even ONE photo of this dress on-line and not having 
any luck.

I did find a kinda messy mock up for an American Girl doll, and a perfect 
replica for a My Little Pony (eye rolls) but no photos of the dress on Susan 
or on a mannequin.

Any tips on a photo, detailed illustration or inside knowledge of a pending 
pattern publication would be appreciated.  My daughter is playing with the 
idea of making it for a prom dress.

Denise
Iowa


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Just wanted to note that this website is a hoax in case anyone wanted to
check it out.
Trephina
(who usually lurks!)
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Even if it was genuine, it probably wouldn't be allowed within the European Union since it might infringe the Human Rights of the felons. In the UK, the unscrupulous Lawyers who've made a mint from EU Human Rights Legislation at the expense of the British Taxpayer would be all over the matter like maggots on rotting meat.

Matthew Baker

--- On Tue, 30/12/08, Trephina <trephina@gmail.com> wrote:
Just wanted to note that this website is a hoax in case anyone wanted to
check it out.
Trephina
(who usually lurks!)
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From: "Dianne" <goofy4@comcast.net>
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Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :).  I need to make him a little
vest......
 
Catherine>>

perk?

Flying monkey?

My SCA coat of arms is a winged monkey. Any clue where he came from?

Dianne

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On Dec 30, 2008, at 12:29 PM, Dianne wrote:

> Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :).  I need to make him a little
> vest......
> Catherine>>
>
> perk?
>
> Flying monkey?
>
> My SCA coat of arms is a winged monkey. Any clue where he came from?
>
> Dianne


      This is funny =97 the Air & Space Museum has a monkey in a space  =

suit, which I got for a friend as  "flying monkey." There are all  =

manner of toy monkeys available, and all you need to do is add wings.  =

The little vest and pillbox hat wouldn't hurt...  :-D

      -Carol
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Dianne wrote:
> Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :).  I need to make him a little
> vest......
> 
> Catherine>>
> 
> perk?
> 
> Flying monkey?
> 
> My SCA coat of arms is a winged monkey. Any clue where he came from?

No idea about Catherine's, but I think mine came from here:
	http://www.officeplayground.com/flyingmonkey.html
or possibly here:
	http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/14980

But there's a better selection and better prices at Amazon at the moment.

No wings on these, but they have nifty capes and masks ;-) You put your first 
two fingers into little pockets in the monkey's front paws, pull back on the 
back legs to make a sort of slingshot, and let go. The monkey goes flying, and 
emits a very satisfying shriek as it goes (and lands).

A note: Once in a while you get one that doesn't work right. It's worth buying 
them in pairs or groups, particularly if you're giving them to kids (as I 
was). Shop around and you'll find discounts on bundles. There are a number of 
versions out there, but the original was the SuperFlyMonkey, distinguished by 
their rainbow helmets:
	http://www.buysuperflymonkey.com

More than you *ever* wanted to know.

--Robin
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Is it out on video yet?  I could capture images - I can rent it from netflix.  BTW - where are you in Iowa - I was born and raised (for awhile) in Iowa City.

Sg

> From: landofoz@netins.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 07:27:54 -0600
> Subject: [h-cost] Movie costumes

> Any tips on a photo, detailed illustration or inside knowledge of a pending 
> pattern publication would be appreciated.  My daughter is playing with the 
> idea of making it for a prom dress.
> 
> Denise
> Iowa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts
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> Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :).  I need to make him a little
> vest......
> 
> Catherine>>
> 
> perk?
> 
> Flying monkey?
> 
> My SCA coat of arms is a winged monkey. Any clue where he came from?

No idea about Catherine's, but I think mine came from here:
http://www.officeplayground.com/flyingmonkey.html 
or possibly here:
http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/14980 

But there's a better selection and better prices at Amazon at the
moment.

<snip for length>
--Robin
------------------------------
Not surprised Robin already had one of these :), and yes it is the same
one as in her link.  I think the hubby said he found it at Half-Price
Bookstore.  The cats still aren't sure what to do about the
screaming.....
 
This item is currently under consideration too :):
http://www.whatonearthcatalog.com/whatonearth/Item_Flying-Monkeys_CB1282_ps_srm.html

 
Catherine
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 12:34:33 -0800
From: Maggie <maggiros@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie costumes
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It came out on DVD at the beginning of December. Lovely dress, too.

MaggiRos

---
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/maggiros


On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 11:25 AM, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>wrote:

>
> Is it out on video yet?  I could capture images - I can rent it from
> netflix.  BTW - where are you in Iowa - I was born and raised (for awhile)
> in Iowa City.
>
> Sg
>
> > From: landofoz@netins.net
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 07:27:54 -0600
> > Subject: [h-cost] Movie costumes
>
> > Any tips on a photo, detailed illustration or inside knowledge of a
> pending
> > pattern publication would be appreciated.  My daughter is playing with
> the
> > idea of making it for a prom dress.
> >
> > Denise
> > Iowa
>
> ___
>
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   > Is it out on video yet?  I could capture images - I can rent it from 
netflix.  BTW - where are you in Iowa - I was born and raised (for awhile) 
in Iowa City.
>
> Sg
>

Yes, we got it for Christmas. My computer doesn't play dvds so that option 
is out for me. It's a pretty good movie and does have nice costumes on other 
characters, too!  :-)

I live in central Iowa, near Ames, but grew up in eastern Iowa close to the 
Quad Cities.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] Italian sleeve question
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Greetings to the list,

I have spent too much time looking at paintings today and have been entranced by this one in particular. The dress is begging to be made someday, in my mind.

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG 

These sleeves look like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then cartridge pleated, also at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the elbow area. Am I interpreting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice is with the same treatment but is flat, yes?

Thanks for any input to my question.

Lyonet         
 lurker 99.9% of the time
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I got a $40.00 gift card to JoAnn's and yesterday I got about $110.00 worth of various linen fabrics for $43.67.  I am so excited to have been in the right place at the right time for such a fabo sale.

Lyonet            
who could not resist sharing about her wonderful Christmas gift
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Wow, I have never seen this picture before.  Very cool.
I think the cartridge pleating approach would work....that is a lot of work to embroider first....I wonder if you could paint a pattern of fabric??

As for the chemise, a pleater would make that easy work....


Sg




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On Tuesday 30 December 2008 6:07:59 pm Lyonet wrote:
> Greetings to the list,
>
> I have spent too much time looking at paintings today and have been
> entranced by this one in particular. The dress is begging to be made
> someday, in my mind.
>
> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG
>
> These sleeves look like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then
> cartridge pleated, also at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the
> elbow area. Am I interpreting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice
> is with the same treatment but is flat, yes?
>
> Thanks for any input to my question.

Frankly, to me it looks as though the pleated and trimmed section at the 
armscye is a separate piece, and is not joined to the sleeve at all.  However, 
Italian Ren isn't my main period of interest.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding." --Ben "Yahtzee" Crenshaw


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Are we even sure that it's a part of the sleeve? I'm not an expert on this period but it looks possible that it's a series of ribbon-like bits that have an almost fringe effect. 
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
On Tuesday 30 December 2008 6:07:59 pm Lyonet wrote:
> Greetings to the list,
>
> I have spent too much time looking at paintings today and have been
> entranced by this one in particular. The dress is begging to be made
> someday, in my mind.
>
> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG
>
> These sleeves look like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then
> cartridge pleated, also at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the
> elbow area. Am I interpreting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice
> is with the same treatment but is flat, yes?
>
> Thanks for any input to my question.

Frankly, to me it looks as though the pleated and trimmed section at the 
armscye is a separate piece, and is not joined to the sleeve at all.  However, 
Italian Ren isn't my main period of interest.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding." --Ben "Yahtzee" Crenshaw


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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 11:25:49 +1100
From: "Aylwen Garden" <aylwengg@gmail.com>
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I have the pattern for it here - its an out of date one I used to make
a wedding dress from some years ago - McCalls 3861..
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
http://www.reproductions.blogspot.com
http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=19098290
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:14:49 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] extra RE:  Italian sleeve question
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By the way here is to new to me pictures by Giovanni Cariani

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ec/Giovanni_Cariani_005.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/a8w8zk

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Giovanni_Cariani_004.jpg

The seduction picture looks as if it could be either
a. fringe but it looks to stiff.
b. separate piece sleeve cap that has the edge snipped and bound.
c. sleeve cap created from the upper portion of the main sleeve. Think
reverse seam where the pleated flap is turned out and the edge it bound.

De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings to the list,

I have spent too much time looking at paintings today and have been
entranced by this one in particular. The dress is begging to be made
someday, in my mind.

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG

These sleeves look like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then
cartridge pleated, also at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the
elbow area. Am I interpreting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice
is with the same treatment but is flat, yes?

Thanks for any input to my question.

Lyonet
 lurker 99.9% of the time


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Land of Oz wrote:
> the blue "farewell" dress worn by Susan
> Any tips on a photo...

couple of rough screen shots--none of the back, but it is shaped as same 
as the front...

- Hope

P.S. I don't remember if this list takes attachments. I can post them 
somewhere if not.

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Have not seen the movie so hope these help
http://costumes.narniaweb.com/

http://tinyurl.com/7acy4u
http://tinyurl.com/9l424o

My favorite site for Movie Costumes
http://www.costumersguide.com/costume_research.shtml

De

-----Original Message-----
I'm sure those of you who make costumes for customers are getting requests
for the blue "farewell" dress worn by Susan in the Prince Caspian movie.
I've been trying to find even ONE photo of this dress on-line and not having
any luck.

I did find a kinda messy mock up for an American Girl doll, and a perfect
replica for a My Little Pony (eye rolls) but no photos of the dress on Susan
or on a mannequin.

Any tips on a photo, detailed illustration or inside knowledge of a pending
pattern publication would be appreciated.  My daughter is playing with the
idea of making it for a prom dress.

Denise
Iowa


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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:44:02 -0600
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I don't think that it is embroidery but a similar colored brocade or a
fabric that had an edge that had a gold thread design interwoven. this would
make sense with the two part sleeve and that the bodice looks to be pleated
as well to match the cuff ruffle and the sleeve cap.
Side note: She seems to be wearing a shift under her camicia.

De



-----Original Message-----
Greetings to the list,

I have spent too much time looking at paintings today and have been
entranced by this one in particular. The dress is begging to be made
someday, in my mind.

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG

These sleeves look like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then
cartridge pleated, also at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the
elbow area. Am I interpreting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice
is with the same treatment but is flat, yes?

Thanks for any input to my question.

Lyonet
 lurker 99.9% of the time


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On Tuesday 30 December 2008 10:44:02 pm otsisto wrote:
>
> Side note: She seems to be wearing a shift under her camicia.

You may well be right...but how can you tell?

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding." --Ben "Yahtzee" Crenshaw


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I recently had to deconstruct my skirt (due to not being made the correct s=
ize). When I clipped the stitching that was holding the pleats so tight, an=
d attached it to a larger band... there was less fabric for the tightly gat=
hered pleating. They didn't stand up as nicely as before. I stitched a stri=
p of felted wool to the underside of the pleats, then regathered them onto =
the new band. It still had some slack. I inserted beads in between each ple=
at at 2 places (one small bead near the band and one slightly larger bead a=
bout 1.5 inches outward). The felt padded the pleats well and the result lo=
oks very similar to the image. It lays correctly on the bum roll and adds t=
he poof I wanted. It also spaces each pleat the same amount.
I think this is what the top of the sleeves are, and not a fringe. I don't =
know if this is period or not but it holds the shape I want and adds detail=
 to the waist area.
The puffyness is probably something inside it to fluff it up to much. That'=
s my guess.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine> From: otsisto@socket.net> To: h-cost=
ume@indra.com; Italian_Renaissance_Costuming@yahoogroups.com> Date: Tue, 30=
 Dec 2008 21:44:02 -0600> Subject: Re: [h-cost] extra RE: Italian sleeve qu=
estion> > I don't think that it is embroidery but a similar colored brocade=
 or a> fabric that had an edge that had a gold thread design interwoven. th=
is would> make sense with the two part sleeve and that the bodice looks to =
be pleated> as well to match the cuff ruffle and the sleeve cap.> Side note=
: She seems to be wearing a shift under her camicia.> > De> > > > -----Orig=
inal Message-----> Greetings to the list,> > I have spent too much time loo=
king at paintings today and have been> entranced by this one in particular.=
 The dress is begging to be made> someday, in my mind.> > http://realmofven=
us.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG> > These sleeves look=
 like the sleeve head has been embroidered and then> cartridge pleated, als=
o at the cuff and then cartridge pleated near the> elbow area. Am I interpr=
eting this correctly? And I am thinking the bodice> is with the same treatm=
ent but is flat, yes?> > Thanks for any input to my question.> > Lyonet> lu=
rker 99.9% of the time> > > _______________________________________________=
> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/m=
ailman/listinfo/h-costume
_________________________________________________________________
Life on your PC is safer, easier, and more enjoyable with Windows Vista=AE. =

http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032870/direct/01/
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-----Original Message-----
On Tuesday 30 December 2008 10:44:02 pm otsisto wrote:
>
> Side note: She seems to be wearing a shift under her camicia.

You may well be right...but how can you tell?

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>>>>>

The white area has two shades of white. The upper section of white indicates
that the camicia is of a sheer material and that the lower white section
indicates that there is a lining, it is probably a shift and most likely
sleeveless or straps. Also the closing area seems to look like there might
be two layers. This shift/lining may have also been a means of support but
that is a theory.

Oonagh's site on shift under camicia for a late period Italian.
http://www.geocities.com/technically_naked/elusive_smock.htm

De


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I received The Complete Costume History by Auguste Racinet.  Anyone know anything about it? How's the scholarship or shall I just look at the pretty pictures?  It is a huge book.  Kay





      
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Pretty pictures. Racinet was the be-all-and-end-all at his time (19th C.),
but everything is redrawn. (Better you should look at original art.) However
it is fun to find the original art and then see how he changed it.

Monica

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I received The Complete Costume History by Auguste Racinet.  Anyone know
anything about it? How's the scholarship or shall I just look at the pretty
pictures?  It is a huge book.  Kay






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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 09:14:50 2008
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> I know I have seen examples of? 1530s or so? spanish court gowns but i 
cant for
> the life of me remember where....can anybody help?

_Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson is a _wonderful_ 
resource for early 16th cent. Spanish gowns. It was recently in print but 
looking on Amazon it seems to have fallen out of print again - however, 
Hedgehog Handworks still has it at in-print prices: 
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT0026.shtml

Best of luck!
        -sunny
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I got what I think may be the sexiest seam ripper ever - Gingher makes one
that looks like something that might re found in Stork Trek.  Retractable
blade.  Then the next box was the boxed set of Gingher scissors - score! And
the display case of Guttermann threads.  Good thing that one of the children
had a second job at JoAnns and got all of it at a great discount.

Joanna
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From: Bambi TBNL <hippy_dippy_dancer@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] early 16c Spanish court dress
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MAy you and your needles be blest in the New Year....
MErcy Buckets!!!


Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL



I am made for great things by GOD

and walk with Pride!!!!

Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad

see me dance 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0

--- On Wed, 12/31/08, Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org <Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org> wrote:
From: Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org <Sunshine.K.Buchler@kp.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] early 16c Spanish court dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 9:14 AM

> I know I have seen examples of? 1530s or so? spanish court gowns but i 
cant for
> the life of me remember where....can anybody help?

_Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson is a _wonderful_ 
resource for early 16th cent. Spanish gowns. It was recently in print but 
looking on Amazon it seems to have fallen out of print again - however, 
Hedgehog Handworks still has it at in-print prices: 
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT0026.shtml

Best of luck!
        -sunny
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> I don't think that it is embroidery but a similar colored brocade or a
> fabric that had an edge that had a gold thread design interwoven. this would
> make sense with the two part sleeve and that the bodice looks to be pleated
> as well to match the cuff ruffle and the sleeve cap.
> Side note: She seems to be wearing a shift under her camicia.
*****************************>

The chemise looks like it is smocked to me. The tiny pleats and near
same color embroidery would match.
 Is that a necklace underneath or a sheer partlet?
 As for the sleeves, it looks like embroidery to me. Much of what we
think is brocade from period was actually embroidered, not woven.
Expecially if it had coat of arms on it. I see running stitches across
the sleeves, caps, and wrist ruffles, but not the bodice itself. It
looks to me like a contrast piece for the upper bodice and sleeve tops
with a stitch to bring the sleeve tops and the caps together visually

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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My roommate gave me=A0a small fabric sewing kit reputed=A0to be an antique =
Victorian one.=A0 It's a dark blue velvet with an old gold silk-type fabric=
 lining.

I was given two lengths of fabric I *wanted* during my recent trip to the L=
A garment district by my friends.

Otherwise, that was it this year.=A0 Normally my boss gives me a gift card =
to JoAnn Fabrics, but with the snow in our area, that didn't happen-instead=
 it ended up being Bed,=A0Bath and Beyond.=A0 I'll probably end up regiftin=
g it, since I don't shop there.=A0 =

=A0JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir =



      =

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The caps the cuffs and bodice look more like a part of the fabric then
embroidery. The bodice, if you enlarge the pictures appears to be pleated.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG
http://tinyurl.com/8q48hy

There are other paintings that have pleated or gathered fronts.
ex:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/LadyParapet.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/8gepo9

Perhaps brocade is not the correct term. What I am saying is that the fabric
may have had a design woven on one of the selvage ends (similar to some sari
fabrics), including the "yellow" band and the seamstress may have made use
of it by cutting the fabric and sewing it so that the design would end up at
the cuffs, bodice and caps. The band seen is to big for a simple running
stitch.

It appears to be a necklace and not a partlet. There may be a fob on the end
hiding in the cleavage.

De

Original:
<<<<The chemise looks like it is smocked to me. The tiny pleats and near
same color embroidery would match.
 Is that a necklace underneath or a sheer partlet?
 As for the sleeves, it looks like embroidery to me. Much of what we think
is brocade from period was actually embroidered, not woven. Especially if it
had coat of arms on it. I see running stitches across the sleeves, caps, and
wrist ruffles, but not the bodice itself. It looks to me like a contrast
piece for the upper bodice and sleeve tops with a stitch to bring the sleeve
tops and the caps together visually.

--
Aspasia Moonwind


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