From: Gretchen Miller Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1993 18:18:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 13, 12/6/93 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 13, December 6, 1993 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu For archives of this digest, send mail to close@lunch.asd.sgi.com Thanks and Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Comments on Lady's Gallery and various neat stuff Lawn and drafting linen Highland Hose Review of Historic Patterns Catalog Mistress Catriona's Books Handout, Info and Permissions One more Biography ------------------------------------------ Date: Fri, 3 Dec 93 20:22:35 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Various subjects Dawn Devine asked whether it's worth subscribing to the Lady's Gallery. Although I buy almost everything I can find on vintage clothing and historic costume, I decided not to subscribe. I talked to the editor a number of times when they started up--I'm a journalist and was trying to sell her articles. My hunch, as a publishing professional, is that they will be out of business shortly. For four reasons: * They started with no experience in any area of publishing, and very little experience in business. They didn't even know how to use a computer. * There are two partners in different states. They communicate poorly, don't make decisions togther, and are generally flaky. * They are spending a lot of money. Four-color printing is very expensive. * They are not doing much to make money. They are not advertising their magazine much, or soliciting ads to put in it. Ads pay most of a magazine's costs; subscriptions merely guarantee that the advertisers get a certain number of readers. Judging from the size of the ads in their first two issues, the ads are basically being given away. New magazines often do this for a little while, but it's ruinous to give away ads for long. I may be wrong of course. I'm very cautious about risking my money or, as a writer, my time. (A magazine that accepts articles, sits on them for a year, then goes out of business when it's too late to sell them elsewhere can be a real pain.) I have the Grace and Favour book and it's marvelous. A lush color exhibit catalog plus four academic essays. People have mentioned the Patchworks fabrics advertised recently. I bought two big swatch collections--"Pre-1890s" and "Turn of the Century." I have not compared the designs and colors to those in my textile reference books, but they look plausible. The designs are not dated; that is, you don't know what decade any "Pre-1890s" sample is from. The fabrics are all thin cotton and the designs mostly tiny prints, with a few small stripes and plaids and some coordinating solids. There are additional swatch collections--I just bought two of the biggest. I signed up for the vintage clothing mailing list about two weeks ago but haven't received any messages. Did my sign-up fail, or is the list inactive? Fran ------------------------------------------------- Date: 03 Dec 1993 23:17:46 -0800 (PST) From: Marjorie Subject: Smithsonian handouts Hi Diane! A BIG thank-you for the info about Smithsonian's tip sheets! Too often people who love costumes are uninformed about care for originals. I run into more people with questions...and I know I'm not as informed as I could be, either. Excellent service you're performing! Thanks! ==Marjorie ------------------------------------------------- Date: 03 Dec 1993 23:39:47 -0800 (PST) From: Marjorie Subject: lawn & other delights Gina Balestraci talks about what lawn is... the consensus matches what I've always thought of as "lawn". One more source, which is drying up and blowing away: *Drafting linen* from before pen plotter paper and other modern types. A friend of mine bought some rolls at closeout prices, and once you beat and hot water the STARCH out, it is *lovely* stuff, and real close to fine lawn. Basically, it's fine fabric heavily impregnated with starch: acts like heavy vellum or something -- until beaten and bathed. If anyone has access to old drafting supplies... get it while its hot! (PS not gonna be easy to find... but worth the effort) =+marjorie ------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 4 Dec 93 19:04:01 -0500 From: nusbache@epas.utoronto.ca (Aryk Nusbacher) Subject: Highland hose From: tjshadb@ecto.ca.sandia.gov (Troy J. Shadbolt) ....what I really need are socks (silly, huh) The problem is they need to be just below the knee, and in the argyle version of the clan plaid, which isn't a big deal; except when you've used the evening formal version of the plaid. So does anyone have a source for Scottish odds 'n sods? Much appreciated. A few points: 1. According to 20th century custom, the "formal evening version" is for use in women's clothing and not men's. I suspect that was the case in the early 19th century as well. Of course you don't need to hear that now. 2. If you want the same tartan on the hose, for some reason, you will probably have to have them knit for you, or cut then from the piece, on the bias. 3. You might look into diced hose. They are pricey -- my pair cost me C$85 -- hand-knit items which come from Scotland. Mine are Gordon pattern -- red and black. Other regiments wear red and white. I was talking with the chairman of the committee which is determining the changes in the kit of the Queen's Own Highlanders now that they are going to absorb the Gordons, and they have not yet determined which Gordon elements are going to be incorporated. This will have some impact on the availability of red and black diced hose. Diced hose were certainly worn during the revival of Highland costume in the early 19th century. 4. You might also look into Lovat hose. My regiment wears these with service dress, and they can be had with all sorts of fancy knitting. I have no idea of the antiquity of Lovat hose. 5. In all events, my diced hose came from: Mac Neil's Scottish Imports 1825 Avenue Road Toronto, Ontario Canada M5M 3Z4. Best of luck, Aryk Nusbacher ------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 4 Dec 93 21:31:56 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Pattern review A few months ago, a new historic pattern company called L'Victorian Couturier advertised in Threads magazine. I sent for their catalog, was put off by its amateurish drawings and high pattern prices, and put it away. A few weeks ago, a company called Historic Patterns advertised in Threads. After sending for their catalog, I noticed the address was the same as L'Victorian Couturier. The new catalog arrived today; here is my review of it. The new catalog carries about the same patterns as the old one, though a couple have been dropped or changed. There are five dress patterns, three blouse patterns, a corset pattern, and four lingerie patterns. Most of the styles are circa 1900, but there is one early 1910s dress pattern. The lingerie styles are similar to those from Folkwear and Past Patterns. The dresses and blouses offer some variety. The catalog is oriented toward brides; the styles have names like "Heavenly" and "Romance." The catalog says that "original garments were used for the designs" but there's no more information about the originals. The styles are not dated. There is no size chart or indication of what sizes the patterns are available in. Of interest is the fact that the prices, although not cheap, are much lower. One dress pattern that cost $52 in the first catalog is now $26.50; another that used to cost $48.50 is also $26.50. The catalog comes with a complimentary corset cover pattern, valued at $12.50. The corset cover is a slightly modified rectangle to be gathered at the top and bottom--a common Edwardian style. It is in one size; a pattern note says it "fits comfortably 35 to 36" bust with normal waist length." The pattern is drawn in fine felt-tip pen and photocopied onto two sheets of copier paper to be taped together. There is also a one-page instruction sheet. Part of the materials list and instructions are on the sheet and part are written onto the pattern. The illustrations on the instruction sheet are primarily ornamental--Dover clip art. With a bit of mental effort the instructions are adequate, but this pattern doesn't need elaborate instructions. I have not made it up or tested its fit. The styles are also available custom made. Dresses cost from $850 to $995, depending on the style. It is possible that the lack of information on pattern sizing means the business is more focused on making clothes than making patterns. The production values of the catalog and pattern are low, which prejudiced me against it. I feel the catalog is aimed at well-heeled brides, but is not slick enough to succeed in that market. However, it's possible that the patterns are no worse than those from some other historic pattern companies. Pattern-drafting skill is different from drawing and writing skills (which the pattern designer clearly lacks). I do think the lack of sizing indicates unawareness of the typical sewer's needs. If you want to see the catalog for yourself, send a check for $4.50 to: Historic Patterns 5150 Mae Anne Ave. 213-118 Reno, NV 89523 You will also receive a miniature candy cane in a ribbon-tied plastic packet, though mine didn't make it through the mail too well. Fran ------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1993 21:18:29 -0500 From: pboynton@sescva.esc.edu (ROWENA NI DHONNCHAIDH) Subject: Book Handout To all of you that I sent this to privately, I apologise, but mail bounced back from several people. So for the people that I cannot seem to get to, I am posting Mistress Catriona's SCA handout. I have permission to share this. Mistress Catriona compiled it to teach a class on Garb research, and gives it away as a handout. However, if you use it for more than just for your own information, please give her all appropriate credit. Most of the typos are my fault. Rowena GARB RESEARCH by Mistress Catriona Mairghread nic Dhuibh of Moray The following list has been compiled to list some of the books I've used in researching garb for the past 24 years. They are all from my personal library. There are many more books available and with a little time any one can find them (if you find something, please let me know!) The sources for these books have been bookstores around the country. I haunt book stores. Used book stores are a god-send. Very often you can get something wonderful for nothing - or at least for a fraction of its original price. The public library is even more wonderful. It is free. Armed with money for the copier, you can come awaywith information from out-of-print books, and rare books for a fraction of even the used-book prices - a ream of your own "artwork", thanks to Lord Xerox the Repetitive... and think of all the clutter you'll be avoiding at home. PATTERN INFORMATION Before you cut your fabric to make the garb, you must have a pattern. The following information, patterns to enlarge and change, sewing techniques & hits to do a particular style. I use them together to give me abroad idea as to cut & fit & silhouette, based upon the research I've done on available paintings & artwork. Costumers' Handbook: Ingham, Rosemary, & Covey, Elizabethan. Englewood Cliffs, NJ Prentice Hall 1980 Elizabethan Costuming: Winter, Janet & Savoy, Carolyn. Oakland, CA. Other Times Publications 1987 Evolution of Fashion - Pattern & Cut From 1066 to 1930 Hill, Margot Hamilton and Bucknell, Peter A. NY Drama Books Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach Liechty, E.G., Pottberg, D.N., and Rasband, J.A NY, Fairchild Publications, 1986 Patterns of Fashion: 1560-1620: Arnold, Janet NY Drama Books, 1985 Patterns for Theatrical Costumes : Holkeboer, Katherine Englewood Cliffs, NY Prentice Hall, 1984 Period Costumes for Stage & Screen Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 Hunnnisett, Jean. London, Bell & Hyman, 1986 Period Patterns : Edson, Doris, & Barton, Lucy Walter H. Baker & Co. 1942 Practical Approach to Costume Design & Construction, 2v Thomas, Beverly Jane. Allyn & Bacon, Inc. 1982 History of Costume : Payne, Blanche Harper & Row, 1965 GENERAL SURVEY These books give an overview of fashion history in the broadest sense. The advantage of having several of these books available is mainly in the overlap of available material. One book may have a particular painting in a 2x2" black & white photo, and another may give you the same painting reproduced in full color in 8 1/2 x 11". Please be aware of redrawings - particularly from the 18th and 19th and early 20th centuries have a tendency to be inaccurate. Redrawings are usually done by an artist with one eye on his own contemporary views of beauty.... But if you know what you are looking for, and use sources conteporary with your period, even a general fashion survey can be of great help. The Book of Costume Davenport, Millik CCrown Publishers, 1948 A Concise History of Costume & Fashion Laver, James. Harry N. Abrams Inc., 1969 History of Costume ; Kohler, Carl Dover, 1963 (originally published 1928) Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the Present Day Contini, Mila. London, Paul Hamlyn 1965 A History of Fashion (IGNORE the Victorian Etchings!) Black, J. ANderson & Garland, Madge, William Morrow & CO. Mirror, Mirror: A Social History of Fashion Battersberry, Michael & Ariane. Holt Rinehart & Winston 77 Short History of Costume & Armour: 1066-1800 Kelly,Franics M. And Schwabe, Randolph. Arco Publishing 66 20,000 Years of Fashion Boucher, Francois Harry N. Abrams, 1966 ART BOOKS And on the eighth day, God created the "art book"... This is a broad category, only slightly less general than a survey of costume history. They give you an outline of a specific location, time period or subject, and gives you much information about the location, time period or subject. ? Unfortunately, you have to cull the non-garb information - eg. map making, glass blowing, or furniture styles. But often this kind of information gives you a "feel" for the period you wish to research. Age of the Renaissance Hay, Denys (editor) McGraw Hill, 1987 Falconry and Art DeChamerlat, Christian Antoine London, Sotherby's 1987 The Renaissance in the North The Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY 1987 The Renaissance and Mannerism in Italy Smart,Alastaire London, Thames & Hudson 1971 National Portrait Gallery Collection Foister, Susan Cambridge University Press, 1988 ART MONOGRAPHS Pick a painter .... any painter... and you will probably be able to find a monograph about hime/her and the extant work of his/her hand. This is probably the BEST reference. Look for large books with color plates, or clear black & white reproductions. Very often these books are often available only in non- English editions, but if the plates are good enough, it is worth the annoyance of working with a good dictionary to understand the text. Arm yourself with a good quality magnifying glass and make as many notes as you can about what you see. You would be surprised what kind of tailoring hints can be found in a painting... A Monograph also gives yo an immediate idea of a painter's style. Most important is his attention to detail. Remember the more "realistic" the style, the easier it is to make garb from the painting. Sfonisba, Anguissola, First Great Woman Artist of the Renaissance Perlingier, Ilya Sandra NY, Rizzoli, 1992 Bronzino McCourqudale, Charles harper & Row, 1981 Carpaccio Valconover, Francesco Florence, Scala/Riverside 1989 Durer, The Complete Paintings of Smith, Alistair Penguin Books, 1986 (originally published in 1968) Filippo Lippi Fossi, Gloria Florence, Scala/Riverside 1989 Giotto Bellosi, Luciano Florence, Scala/Riverside 1981 Holbein Boureanu, Radu London, Abbey Library 1977 Holbein: Portrait Drawings DOver Publishing, 1985 Simone Martini Jannella, Cecilia Florence, Scala/Riverside 1989 Raphael Cocke, Richard & Vecchi, Peirkigi Penguin Books 1987 (first published 1966) Titian (The World of Titian) Williams, Jay Time-Life Books, 1968 The Van Eycks Hughes, Robert and Faggin, Giorgia T. Penguin Books 1968 PORTRAIT BOOKS Portraiture was not considered a fine art until the Renaissance. Thses paintings eternally record what a person - usually in the upper class or nobility - wore. These portraits are usually full of symbolism which will help you understand a little about the sitter, the painter, and the times in which they painting was done. From the portraits you can get the perfect idea for not only the clothing of a period, but the nuances of location (what would the sitter wear if he was English and NOT German) personality & experience (had the sitter just gotten back from Italy? His clothes may have an Itlaian influence just because of that), hair styles, accessories, hats, headresses, shoes, jewelry, & marital status. Check books for any information on retouching of paintings or restoration - and that is a lecture in and of itself! English Icon: Elizabethan & Jacobean Portraiture Strong, Roy. Yale University Press, 1969 Renaissance Portraits Campbell, Lorne Yale University Press, 1990 National Portrait Gallery Collection Foister, Susan Cambridge University Press, 1988 MEDIEVAL GARB The following books are based upon medieval illuminated manuscripts. They are not only a source of information for court garb, but for the clothing of the middle and lower classes. Arthurian Book of Days Matthews, Caitlin & John Macmillan, 1990 Medieval Book of Seasons Collins, Marie & Davis, Virginia. Harper Collins, 1992 Medieval Hunting Scenes: The Hunting Book Bise, Gabriel & Phoebus, Gaston. Geneva, Editions Minerva, SA 1978 Trades & Crafts in Medieval Manuscripts Basing, Patricia. New AMsterdam Books, 1990 SPECIALTY BOOKS There are books that specialize in one aspect of fashion: hair, hats, jewelry, etc. These are a few books which embrace our period of interest. Another type of book can be termed a costume "monograph" - a work devoted to one location, era, ethnic group or person and his/her clothing. Dress & Undress: A History of Women's Underwear Ewing, Elizabeth. Drama Books, 1978 Encyclopedia of World Costume Yarwood, Doreen Scribners, 1978 Fashions in the Hair: The First 5000 Years Corson, Richard. London, Peter Owen, 1965 Lost Treasures of Britain Strong, Roy Viking Penguin Books, 1990 Metroplolitan Jewelry McConnell, Sophie Bulfinch Press/Little Brown & Co, 1991 Jewish Costume Rubens, Alfred Crown Publisheers, 1967 Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd Arnold, Janet. Leeds, W.S. Maney & Sons, 1988 Renaissance Dress in Italy: 1400-1500 Herald, Jacqueline. Humanities Press, 1981 Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530 Anderson, Ruth Matilda. Hispanic Society of America 1979 BOOKS TO AVOID (!) There are books that have been used as sources in garb research that are best ignored. Run, do not walk, away from these. Costume books with 19th century engravings of "period" clothing are very impressive, but as detailed as they seem, they will not accurately reflect the silhouette of a period. Redrawings from period sources are a nice idea that never works. It would be great to be able to group people in the clothes they were painted in or a single page according to style, location, and time frame, but the artist invariably leaves something out due to personal taste or lack of artisitc ability or laziness, OR , worse yet, adds something that wasn't there at all!!! (RT Wilcox's drawings all look like 1950's paper dolls!) Anything written without citing primary sources in the bibliography should be placed back on the shelf where it was found. It shows the author relied on someone else's often questionable research and was too lazy to do his/her own work. (A photo of a primary source is considered a primary source for our purposes - a painting, statue, etc., reproduced in a book.) Ancient Costumes of Great Britain and Ireland From the Druids to the Tudors Smith, Charles Hamilton NY Arch Cape Press/Crown Publishers 1989 (originally published in 1814) Costume Through the Ages Laver, James & Kiepper, Erhard. London: thames & Hudson, 1963 Historic Costume in Picture Braun & Schneider Dover Publications, 1975 (originally published 1861-1890) Mode in Costume Wilcox, Ruth Turner Scribners, 1958 Pictorial History of Costume Bruhn, Wolfgang and Tilke, Max. Arch Cape Press, 1988 (originally 1940) ------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1993 21:07:19 -0500 From: pboynton@sescva.esc.edu (ROWENA NI DHONNCHAIDH) Subject: Mistress Catriona's handout To those of you who asked, Mistress Catriona of the SCA grants permission for her handout to be used or reprinted - after all, she says, she created it as a teaching tool. She does ask for copies of what you print it as or - especially - for any newsletters, etc., that it is in. She also sends apologies that it is as incomplete as it is, it does not even reflect her current library. But the general spirit of it should prove useful. She has a Master's from the State University of New York at Binghamton, in costume, and currently designs clothing for a New York City manufacturer. She has made a very generous offer to help anyone with questions who is willing to correspond with her via regular mail - she does not have a computer and has no access to this - or any other - group. And I have to call her long distance, so I can't help very much either! Her address - for those newsletters, etc., and any one who might like to write her on anything - is: Monica Spence 70 Redmond Ave. Bay Shore N.Y. 11706 By the way, she is a source of a great many things for me, as she either has them or - because she does line on Long Island and work in New York City - has access to a lot. She recommends calling the Metropolitan Museum and asking for their book department, as they had been stocking Janet Arnold's book on Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked. Pamela. ------------------------------------------------- Date: 06 Dec 1993 10:41:00 -0400 (EDT) From: In love with a sculpture of Hermes Subject: Well... ...since everybody seems to be doing introductions, allow me to do the same... My name is Maura Burns, I'm twenty years old and a junior at Smith College in Northampton, MA. I grew up around sewing, as my mother partially supported our family when I was a baby by her quilts and quilted pieces, and eventually when I evidenced interest, she taught me how to sew. I'm still no expert, but I get by. Although I occasionally make my own everday clothing, my main interests in the field are in fantasy and historical costume. (Yes, yes, I'm in the SCA, I admit it. :) ) I have made and worn clothing from all kinds of time periods, from ancient Greek up to post-French Revolution, and am in the middle of my first Victorian project as well. I'm particularly interested in sources to help me with details of my costumes-- authentic trims, shoes, hairdos (*very* difficult since my hair is short, unfortunately) and the like. Someday when I have room I'd love to learn to spin and weave my own fabrics as well. Other interests include early music, keeping my plant alive, ancient art & literature (Art History/Ancient Studies major), and finishing my Latin requirement without going into cardiac arrest. Let's see... my favorite color is dark red. :) Maura ------------------------End of Volume 13-----------------------------