From: Gretchen Miller Date: Fri, 21 Jan 1994 18:07:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 35, 1/21/94 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 35, January 21, 1994 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu For archives of this digest, send mail to close@lunch.asd.sgi.com Note: I apologize for the lack of digest on Wednesday and Thursday. There has been a "state of emergency" in most of PA due to the cold weather, and the university where I work has been closed. Things are back to normal now and the digest has resumed. Thanks and Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: More on Dressed to Kill Exhibition and Catalog Ansers to Mid 15C Flemish Fabrics Corsets Continue ---------------------------- From: "HEATHER ASPINALL" Date: Wed, 19 Jan 1994 09:40:23 EST10 Subject: Re: Dressed to Kill Exhibition Hi Folks! I went to the exhibition last weekend and had a great time. The exhibition was split into roughly four periods: Late 1800s to 1914, post-war through the 1920s, 1930's through the 1950s, 1960s to the present. The catalogue features full page colour photos of the key garments from each period and some nice detailed shots of garments. Sprinkled through the text is also some of the illustrations exhibited to give some background to the period. I haven't got the catalogue with me so I'm going on memory here - I think it was about 100 pages long and has an index in the back which lists all the exhibits (naturally!). The exhibition was quite nicely put together with some bits from the Australian National Gallery's own collection and some other garments etc borrowed from other collections around Australia and even from some of the designers themselves. Anyway, I happen to live in Canberra so if anyone is really interested in getting the catalogue please email me at aspinall@rsbs-central.anu.edu.au and I'll see what I can find out about getting it mail order at exhibition price. Cheers, Heather Aspinall Australian National University ---------------------------- From: "Lee Radigan" Date: 18 Jan 94 17:47:48 EST Subject: Re: Mid 15th c Flemish fabrics > Her female character is the daughter of a successful painter who is > a guild member and owns a studio and takes pupils. The daughter is > 20 years old, unmarried. Would she wear a silk or linen chemise under > her ordinary day gowns -- ordinary everyday dress not something > special for a festive occassion. All the information I have tends to indicate that silk was still very expensive at that time; it is most likely that her chemise would have been of the finest linen she could afford, quite possibly embroidered heavily on the visible portions (collar, cuffs, etc.). Lee Radigan, LIB1 Information Systems Internet: ljradiga@hawk.syr.edu 039A E.S. Bird Library Voice: (315) 443-9507 222 Waverly Avenue Fax: (315) 443-9510 Syracuse, NY 13244-2010 ---------------------------- From: "HEATHER ASPINALL" Date: Thu, 20 Jan 1994 13:39:30 EST10 Subject: Dressed to Kill catalogue Hi folks! As I got a few requests, I thought I'd post this to everyone. Here is the information on the Dressed to Kill catalogue: I rang the Gallery and they confirmed that they can do mail orders to the States. The address is: Attention: Cybil Mail Order Sales National Gallery of Australia GPO Box 1150 Canberra ACT 2601 Australia Ph: +61 008 808 337 The mail order price is more expensive than if you attend the exhibition. It's AUD$24.95 plus postage and you can pay by credit card, personal cheque or money order. I had a bit of a chat to Cybil (who was very helpful) about the price of postage and she said that of course it would depend on where in the US and the method of transport. She asked that when ordering you specify the postal method you want. Sea mail is, of course, the cheapest but will take about three months to get there. Air mail will take about two weeks. There is something called Economy Air which is obviously not as slow as Sea mail but is cheaper than Air mail. She couldn't give me any definite prices but said that the absolute maximum you'd have to pay for Air mail is AUD$12. Now don't forget that the Australian dollar is worth about 3/4 of the American dollar, so all up it works out at around $20 American. I believe it's better if you pay by credit card because the big companies go for the best exchange rate they can get. I brought the catalogue in so I could tell you a little more about it. It's 80 pages long and each section looks at a specific designer- it covers all the designers from the exhibition (I think!). They are: Worth, Pingat, Callot Soeurs, Poiret, Paquin, Fortuny (the Fortuny dresses were divine!), Lanvin, Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli, Dior, Balenciaga, Cardin, St. Laurent, Rabanne, Zandra Rhodes, Stephen Jones, Kawakubo, Gaultier, Kirsten Woodward, Miyake, Lagerfeld, Lacroix, Romeo Gigli, Martin Margiela, Christopher Nemeth, Philip Treacy, Vivienne Westwood. The text for each section is not definitive (but I haven't read the whole thing yet). The really nice thing about the catalogue is the pictures. Each designer has at least a full page photo of either a whole costume or of some detail of the costume and there is a nice mix of contemporary photos of the garment (for the later 20th century), illustrations, and background details (such as photos of Paul Poiret's house etc). Well, I hope that answers your queries. I haven't responded to all the individual mail messages as I'm assuming you'll all get this message. Cheers for now and thanks for all the interesting stuff that I get to read on this mailgroup. Heather Aspinall aspinall@rsbs-central.anu.edu.au ---------------------------- From: bednarek@tidalwave.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 ~BHOSVWZ#097) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 94 05:06:21 CST Subject: Corsetry info desired I know there have long threads on making corsets, however I'm looking for something else. What I'm trying to do is compile a history of corsetry on how corsets first originated, and how through time and geographic locations corsets have changed. If anyone can lead me to good interesting research material on this subject I would appreciate it. dennis ---------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Jan 94 10:40:35 CST From: "rebecca mioak chung" Subject: Re: Corsetry info desired I would love to see history of corsetry information too. Please post or send it to my address. Thank you, Rebecca Chung rmc2@quads.uchicago.edu ---------------------------- From: LIVERMORE@BINAH.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU Date: Fri, 21 Jan 1994 14:11 EDT Subject: Corsetry info desired You probably already know about this, but Nora Waugh's book _Corsets and Crinolines_ is an excellent starter book on the changes in corsets over the years. For anything more detailed, I'll have to defer to the costume whizzes on this list (on whom I have been eavesdropping for the last few months...Thanks for the interesting and lively debates you have provided me in my mailbox!) Since I have finally come out of the woodwork, I should introduce myself. My name is Anne. I like to compete in costume masquerades at science fiction conventions when they happen in my area (which is Boston, Massachusetts), and I am a proud member of the SCA, a real good game. Besides that, I am just generally interested in costume, and I like getting this stuff on my terminal. I'll keep an eye on exhibits at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and such, and if anything really good comes up, I'll let you all know. ---------------------------- End of Volume 35 -----------------------