From: Gretchen Miller <grm+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 17:20:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 70, 3/11/94

The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 70, March 11, 1994

Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message).

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For archives of this digest, send mail to close@lunch.asd.sgi.com

Thanks and Enjoy!

---------------------------------------------------------------
Topics:
More bios
Question: Corset Supply Sources
Question and answers: Getting Coins for Costume
Answers to Victoriana Source questions
Sources for "Fair Winds" patterns
More Pattern Evaluations
Info on Medieval Miscellanea

----------------------------
From: MSCHSSLR@vax1.tcd.ie
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 13:32 GMT
Subject: Netiquette and Query

Hello, all.
I've actually been hanging around for a while, and have even sent in a
couple of messages, and have just now realized that it would be polite
to introduce myself (I promise that this will not be a full- length
bio!).  You'll have to excuse my heretofore uncouth behavior-- I'm new
at this!

Really, my life has been much the same as yours, if the bios I've read
are any indication, so I won't go into detail.  I've been costuming
since age 5 and sewing since 8.  I have never been in the SCA (!), but
it probably won't be too much longer till I join!  Costuming has always
been my obsession, and like you, I always have at least four or five
projects in various stages of completion.  I study at Rice University,
Houston, Texas, trying to get a history degree while being constantly
involved in theatre productions.  Currently I'm in Dublin, Ireland
studying drama for a year, and I'll return to Rice next year to finish
my history degree...see what I mean about projects in the works?!

That brings me to my question:  does anyone know of companies--mail-
order or otherwise--that stock corset materials (spiral steel, heavy
broche, busks, etc.) and other unusual underpinnings (like wooden hoops
and the like)?  I'm especially interested in companies that are in the
Southwest, since that's closest, but if it's mail-order, it doesn't
matter too much.  Thanks very much.  I have really enjoyed being on this
mailing list--ya'll are great fun to chat with!

Melanie Schuessler
    I'm nobody-who are you?
    Are you nobody, too?
    Then there's two of us-don't tell
    They'd banish us, you know
     -Emily Dickinson

----------------------------
Date:    Fri, 11 Mar 1994 7:13:15 -0700 (MST)
From: WITHERSPOON@SUU.EDU (RHIANWEN)
Subject: Need coins for costume...
To: h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu

I am seeking to purchase a quantity of foreign coins for use on a Middle
Eastern costume, and have not been able to come up with a source for
them here in the U.S.  The coins need to be 19-20 mm in diameter (or
5/8") (somewhere around the size of a U.S. penny or nickel), and gold-
or copper- colored.  They also need to be *cheap*, as I figure any
shipping is going to be very expensive. It doesn't matter what country
they're from...

Does anyone know where I could purchase the coins here in the U.S., or
would be willing to ship them to me?  I'm going to want 400-500 of them,
and would be willing to send an International Money Order in advance...
If you can help me with this, please send e-mail...

Thanks!

Tonie Witherspoon
SCA: Rhianwen Morgaine ferch Aelhaearn

----------------------------
Date: 10 Mar 94 23:07:00 EST
From: "Gina Balestracci" <BALESTRACCI@saturn.montclair.edu>
Subject: victoriana help

In answer to Annie's question about heirloom stuff:

Sew Beautiful and Creative Needle are actually really good sources if
you can draft patterns.  In my capacity as "Auntie Gina" top all my
friends' kids and nieces and nephews, I'm often called upon to create
elaborate christening gowns and communion dresses, and yes, the ones in
those magazines do tend to be a bit saccharine.  I take _lots_ of photos
of victorian clothes in museums and historical sites and refer to them
to draft new patterns or alter existing patterns. Small city and county
museums tend to have good collections that are on exhibit of these sorts
of garments.  With the larger museums, unless they're having a specific
show of what you're looking for, you'd need to ask to see things one at
a time and sort of know exactly what you're looking for.  Also, don't
overlook small museum collections of antique dolls.  I copied a really
cute edwardian sailor dress from an old bear. 

Martha Pullen's books are loaded with good, although artsy, photos of
victorian whites, so even if they aren't discussed in the text in
excruciating detail, the photos are usually clear enough to give you a
good idea of how the garment is constructed.  I made a christening gown
that she had a picture of that was from the Bethnal Green Museum in
London.  All I had to work from was one photo and a line drawing that
showed some of the detail.  I altered the Vogue christening gown pattern
to suit my needs.  My gown, although intentionally not identical in all
details, looked at least as good as the museum piece, and it was
historically accurate in style.

gb

----------------------------
From: close@lunch.asd.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close)
Subject: Re: Patterns
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 08:14:18 -0800 (PST)

> Does anyone have the address for Fair Winds Patterns?  I've admired their
> designs, especially the 1914 "Mabel" design, and I think I'd like to get my
> hands on it.

The woman who does FairWinds patterns used to sell directly out of her
home in West Hollywood.  After coming up with the current six designs,
she decided to retire and move to Texas.  Since the move, she no longer
sells to the public but she does sell to the big pattern distributors
like Raiments, Amazon Dry Goods, Campbells, etc.  Ordering through them
is the only way you'll get her designs, now, and all three companies
stock all six of her patterns.
-- 
Diane Barlow Close
 close@lunch.asd.sgi.com
 I'm at lunch today.  :-)

----------------------------
Subject: Re: Need coins for costume... 
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 08:53:18 PST
From: Walter Nelson <Walter_Nelson@rand.org>

I have a good source for phoney coins, made specifically for belly
dancing costumes.  They are cheap, but they don't look quite as good as
real coins (they are also much lighter of course).

                              Walter Nelson
                          walter_nelson@rand.org

----------------------------
From: close@lunch.asd.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close)
Subject: Re: victoriana help wanted
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 09:06:27 -0800 (PST)

> In answer to Annie's question about heirloom stuff:
> Martha Pullen's books are loaded with good, although artsy, photos of 
> victorian whites, so even if they aren't discussed in the text in
> excruciating detail, the photos are usually clear enough to give you a
> good idea of how the garment is constructed.

I agree.  Martha Pullen's books are excellent sources of material for
the Victorian as well as the Edwardian eras.  They are NOT the same as
the Sew Beautiful magazine stuff.  The books present many historic
garments as both photos and drawings.  Often the text will describe
exactly how the garment was made, giving you lots of help in duplicating
it.  The one complaint I've heard, over and over, about Martha's books
is DO NOT TRUST HER DATING.  She's lousy at dating a piece of clothing. 
This is especially true in the new _Heirloom Sewing For Women_.  Yes, do
use her books to find reproduceable clothing, but use a museum or other
text to date her stuff, so you can reproduce the right thing for your
year/era.
-- 
Diane Barlow Close
 close@lunch.asd.sgi.com
 I'm at lunch today.  :-)

----------------------------
From: nomadmt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 13:13:32 EST
Subject: coins & pattern evaluation

One of the dance troupes here in California uses religious medals
instead of coins.  They are quite inexpensive.  And very few people
notice the difference!  Many cities have religious supply houses (check
the yellow pages).  The medals have better weight than the fake coins,
which tend to be
rather flimsy.

While I'm here, I also pass on my opinion of the Aziza patterns.....
First, they are not accurate in the historical sense - for example, the
seam in the sleeve of the ghwazee coat is in the wrong place. Second,
they run small.  Third, they are easy to use.  I am still using mine,
even with the problems I have with them.  (This will change if I ever
get around to buying a copy of Tilke!)  

Margo Glenn-Lewis
nomadmt.@aol.com
life is never what you expected......

----------------------------
Date: 11 Mar 1994 11:01:28 U
From: "Blake, Roberta" <blake#m#_roberta@srs142.scf.loral.com>
Subject: Bio

i've been enjoying this list since november. 
since then, i've:
  -- taken the SJCLO costume dept. tour
  -- become acquainted with some very nice h-costume people
  -- attended CC12 
  -- seeded a costuming book collection with 15 or so neat books
  -- purchased some historic patterns, muslin, etc.
  -- and positioned myself to begin _practicing_  garment construction.

unlike many of you, i have not been sewing since the age of 8 (or even
38). i didn't take home ec in high school.  i was never involved in
theater.  i do not have a history degree.  i was never in the SCA, nor
do i intend to be.

however, i have always appreciated the color, cut, texture, style, fit
and details of clothing.  until recently, i just would rather wear them,
and admire the work, rather than feel compelled to sew it myself.

now, i want to research the history of the garment, and then to *build*
it (in addition to wearing it), and find some satisfaction in the sewing
process itself.  (why does this come off sounding like some sort of
new-age therapy?) BTW, i've enjoyed incorporating wearable vintage
clothes (dresses, blouses from the art deco period) into my wardrobe
(read mostly jeans) since i was a teen.
thanks to everyone for the helpful information, this is a great list!
...and i'll keep you posted.  ;-)
            roberta

----------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 11:26:16 -0800
From: CJ Smith <cjsmith@Hawg.Stanford.EDU>
Subject: Re: Need coins for costume...

If it really doesn't matter what country they're from, French 10centime
pieces meet all your requirements.  The 10c piece is worth maybe three
cents US and is gold-colored.  They're about nickel-sized if I remember
right (but thinner than a nickel).  I've got a few rolls of them
somewhere at home, but if you need a large number, try a bank that does
money changing; they might be willing to sell you a mass of their
coinage.

Good luck!

How are you going to drill holes through all of those?  My wrists hurt
just thinking about it!

--CJ

----------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 15:14:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Gretchen Miller <grm+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Fwd: Mediaeval Miscellanea Patterns Update

A letter of interest from rec.org.sca on Medieval Miscellanea patterns.

---------- Forwarded message begins here ----------
>Date: Thu, 10 Mar 1994 13:18:14 EST
>From: Lisa A. M. Tyson <CS23001@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
>Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
>Subject: Mediaeval Miscellanea Patterns Update

Over two months ago I called Mediaeval Miscellanea and left a request on
their answering machine for information regarding their patterns.  I had
given up all hope of ever hearing from them until I received the
following in today's mail, which I am typing directly from the letter in
front of me, for your information.

                           Medieval Miscellanea
                         6530 Spring Valley Drive
                          Alexandria, VA 22312
                              (703) 642-1740

"Dear Customer,

    Thank you for your interest in Mediaeval Miscellanea and our products.

    At the moment, we are not selling the jewelry, books and other
products we have usually carried, and we are not selling our patterns
directly to the public.  Below is a list of two companies who do sell
the jewelry, plus 6 of the companies who are carrying our patterns and
do mail order.  We are keeping your name on file, and will notify you
about new patterns and other products.  We are continuing to design new
patterns (our Women's German Puff- and-Slash, c. 1500-1545, is now in
stock with the dealers below).

Jewelry:

North Shore Gifts                  The Cottage Works
4857 Alcyn Dr.                     12 W. Willow Grove Ave, Box 186
Racine, WI  53402-2507             Philadelphia, PA  19118-3952
(414) 639-5927                     (215) 242-8849

Patterns:

Amazon Drygoods                    MacKenzie-Smith
2218 East 11th Street              9600 Business Park Dr. Suite 2
Davenport, IA 52803                Truckee, CA 95734
(319) 322-6800                     (916) 587-5974

Campbells                          House Morning Star
RD 1 Box 1444                      11246 S. Post Oak Rd. #217
Herndon, PA  17830                 Houston, TX 77035
(717) 425-2045                     (713) 729-7990

Raiments                           Alice Stephenson
3216 Villa Knolls Dr.              2734 Mountain View W.
Pasedena, CA  91107                Tocoma, WA  98466
(818) 791-9195                     (206) 565-2893

     If you do contact one of these fine companies, please let them know
we recommended them to you.  If you sent a check with a catalog request,
we have ripped it up to prevent accidental cashing.

     We are also designing and selling Period Pavillions, as well as
used ones.  If you would like a copy of our free Pavillion catalog, just
call or drop us a note, we would be happy to send you one.

Best,
Coryn Weigle"
=== ==== ==== ==== ==== ==== ==== === ===

Mediaeval Miscellanea carries a wide range of patterns and jewelry.  I
would recommend contacting the above companies regarding prices for
catalogs or consulting the Costuming FAQ published in this forum.

I have not yet made one of their patterns but I have two which have
provided wonderful historic documentation in the packages.  Their
patterns are not cheap and I would recommend tracing the original tissue
pattern pieces onto a more durable transparent tissue (such as a heavy
duty gift wrap tissue available at most department stores in the gift
wrap section).  Having started with Folkwear patterns which use a
heavier pattern paper, I am aghast at the toilet paper fragility of
other commerically available patterns (ahem, my sewing abilities are
best described as 'toddler' at this stage, but I'm getting better at
tracking down these patterns).

I hope this will help.If anyone has any recommendations for patterns,
costuming and accessories, particularly mail order catalogs, I would
appreciate a description to add to my local shire newsletter.  I'll give
you full credit if I pass the information along to people in verbal or
written form!

Yours In Service,

Lady Brynn

----------------------------
From: Zach Kessin <zkessin@cs.brandeis.edu>
Subject: Re: Need coins for costume...
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 15:27:40 -0500 (EST)

> 
> If it really doesn't matter what country they're from, French
> 10centime pieces meet all your requirements.  The 10c piece is worth
> maybe three cents US and is gold-colored.  They're about nickel-sized
And I've been told they will work for subway tolkens in Boston too.
(Note this is not a legal use of them, and I dont recomend it)

--- Zachary Kessin zkessin@cs.brandeis.edu  
For a good Prime, call:
29819592777931214269172453467810429868925511217482600306406141434158089

----------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 12:32:33 -0800
From: CJ Smith <cjsmith@Hawg.Stanford.EDU>
Subject: Need coins for costume...

> And I've been told they will work for subway tolkens in Boston too.
> (Note this is not a legal use of them, and I dont recomend it)

Right, that's why I have a bunch of them.  I bought a purseload when
moving from Paris to Boston.  Unfortunately, Boston's been updated. :-)
They don't work in the newer turnstiles.  And I'm in CA now anyway...

--CJ

----------------------------

Subject: Re: Need coins for costume... 
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 13:06:14 PST
From: Walter Nelson <Walter_Nelson@rand.org>

Banks don't handle foreign coins.  They only handle paper money.  If you
come back from your trip with a bunch of foreign coins, you can't change
them.  You just found yourself with a bunch of souveniers.

                                  Walter

---------------------------- End of Volume 70 -----------------------

