From: Gretchen Miller Date: Tue, 28 Jun 1994 13:03:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 120, 6/28/94 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 120, June 28, 1994 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Spool knitting instructions Question and answers: Snoods More on Amazon Dry Goods rumor Recommendations: Costume books from London In Search Of:Regency Groups in the Boston area Seeking:Opinions on Whole Costumer's Catalog ---------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Jun 1994 18:48:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Gretchen Miller Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 116, 6/17/94 Excerpts from internet.other.h-costume: 21-Jun-94 Re: H-Costume Digest, Volu.. by 3. 302-4333.Quotron.@cae > Could someone please tell how to start "spool knitting"? I still > have my original spool that I started a 2 month fad at my > elementary school with but have forgotten how to "thread?" it. > Marie, It's been awhile, but I believe this is how it works. 1. Hold the spool nail side up. Stick the end of the yarn through the hole. 2. Pass the yarn to the right of a nail, wrap once around that nail. 3. Working the thread clockwise, repeat with all nails. When you're done, the top of the spool should look something like a four-leaf clover. 4. Now, bring the thread behind the first nail, and lift your original loop over the thread, creating a new loop on the nail. Repeat. Every now and again pull on the tail. That's it! Good luck. toodles, gretchen ---------------------------- From: "Cassandra McCraw" Date: Fri, 24 Jun 1994 16:57:45 CST Subject: Snoods Greetings, Can anyone direct me to a source for instructions for making a snood. (I am referring to a crocheted "bag" worn on the back of the head, holding the hair. They were also a fad, for a brief time, when I was in junior high, i.e. the late 60s - early 70s. I think Scarlet wore one in Gone With the Wind, but that was before my time - no matter how old my daughter thinks I am!) I saw one last week worn with a 14th c costume and it looked like a cool (temperature-wise) and attractive hair accessory. Also - would a snood be appropriate to any other Medieval or Renaissance era costume? (A small one in gold yarn & pearls for Italian Ren perhaps?) I am trying to talk a co-worker into teaching me to crochet, but she does not have any patterns for a snood. (She believes in patterns and thinks I am a little daft for never following one, but after learning to make T-Tunics without a pattern I am becoming fearless with material and scissors!) I guess I should also ask if crochet was used in period to construct such an accessory? And if not - macrame or what????? Thanks in advance for any help. Sorry if I have rambled in this message - I just got back to my computer after a 10 day SCA event (War of the Lilies in Calontir and I did not see any garb that inspired me - it was too hot!) Cassandra McCraw -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ -,-'-(@ Cassandra McCraw Internet: CMCCRAW@SATURN.UARK.EDU Serials Department, University of Arkansas Libraries Fayetteville AR 72701 ---------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Jun 1994 16:20:45 -0700 (PDT) From: "Pegisue O'Brien" Subject: Re: Snoods Well, I will start this off... I wear a snood with my 16th C garb and I agree it is a cool way to keep your hair up. I have a really spiffo one that a friend crocheted for me (I really hate hand work). We just picked out a nice doilie pattern and ran a string of elastic around the edge. It works well, stays on and looks great. (Easy too -- especially if you have someone else crochet it):-) ---------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Jun 1994 16:19:57 +0800 (PST) From: nancy fernandez Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 119, 6/23/94 RE: Amazon Drygoods I don't know anything official about their status, but at the recent Costume Society of America Symposium in Montreal a number of their publications were displayed for the silent auction, and flyers for ordering the books were available. The order form gives a phone number: 319-322-6800. I do hope they are still in business, because I planned on ordering a couple of things! ---------------------------- From: sclark@epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Subject: Re: Snoods Date: Sun, 26 Jun 1994 16:36:21 -0400 (EDT) Greetings! The Museum of London book on Textiles and Clothing has some surviving examples of hairnets/snoods. They were made of silk thread in the period I study (13th century) and worn with a fillet and "chinstrap" (either an abbreviated coif or a straplike wimple) or under the ubiquitous veil and wimple. The Museum of London book has details of how they were made, though no actual pattern. I've forgotten the exact knot that is used, but crochet with fine thread isn't oo far off. Most snoods I have seen use far too thick yarn for my period. Cheers! Susan Carroll-Clark sclark@epas.utoronto.ca ---------------------------- From: GRUNDYC@Underdale.UniSA.edu.au Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 12:26:32 +0930 Subject: re Snoods I have a pattern for a basic crochetted snood but it is English in origin and would need to be "translated" into U.S. crochet terms. I have been supplying local SCA groups with crochetted snoods made to order in various yarns for several years. I'm willing to consider OS requests. If interested please contact me by snail mail : Cate Grundy Joan Brewer Library University of South Australia Holbrooks Road Underdale South Australia 5032 ---------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 08:00:12 -0600 (CST) From: "Donna Holsten" Subject: snoods I'm planning on making a gold and pearl snood for my Spanish 1550's dress. Eleanora of Toledo wears it in the portrait of her in her wedding dress (white fabric with gold and brown velvet pattern). As far as I can tell, it's some sort of braid or bobbin lace. (But I'm "cheating" and using thin, store-bought gold cord, and just sewing it together at the intersections.) I did a "mockup" out of black crochet. The pattern I used was a simple circle, drawn in at the edges with a drawstring. I did have to use hairpins to hold it on, but with the hairpins it stayed on very well, and was very comfortable and cool. As far as construction, crochet wasn't invented until the 1800's or so. Bobbin lace or some other type of braiding would have been used from about 1550-1800. Tatting was used from 1700 or so (I think) on. But, if you don't do bobbin lace or tatting, crochet with fine thread ends up looking very similar. I don't know how snoods would have been made before 1550-- maybe just with plain old fabric cut into a circle? Donna H. ---------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 09:30:49 -0600 (MDT) From: Carol Newby Subject: book suggestions wanted Hi All, I just found out that my father-in-law is going to London on business sometime soon and I would like to ask him to bring me back an excellent book or two (and some tartans, and the list goes on! :) Can anyone suggest any really excellent books, like the one mentioned in the snood thread, that are available at the various museums, or anywhere else for that matter. I haven't been to London in 10 years, and my father-in-law won't have the time to go investigating book sellers (or feel comfortable that he's getting something I can use). Also, if anyone knows of any books available in Ireland or Scotland, by husband's best friend leaves for there in a few weeks. < > ^ ^ < source: bumper sticker >(_o_)< U ------------------------------- ----------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 8:28:13 -0500 (CDT) From: JENNIFER CARLSON Subject: re:snoods I've made several snoods for medival and renaissance hairdressing. I've crocheted them, since I've never learned to do the hand-knotted netting from which they were made historically. I use a large filet lace stitch. I start out by making either a flat circle or flat oval, enlarging it until it is at least as wide as the wearer's head (about 7-8 inches/18-21 cm usually does it), and then quit increasing and work it into a bag shape. The trick in making them hold in place correctly is in making them long enough from top to bottom, i.e., you should be able to pin the opening in place at the top of the head and have the hair resting at the nape of the neck. For the 13th-15th century styles, the wearer pins the snood to the barbette (chinstrap). This holds it very firmly in place. For Elizabethan combs, either alone or together with ribbons or strands of pearls hairpinned in place does the job nicely. Done properly, a snood is an exceptionally feminine accoutrement. Done poorly, it looks like a food service worker's hairnet. Although, come to think of it, there are a few Italian portraits of ladies whose hair looks more like that of a cafeteria worker than a noblewoman. Jennifer Carlson JLC@vax2.utlsa.edu ----------------------------------- From: WALTER@tandem.physics.upenn.edu Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 11:59 EDT Subject: snoods I believe the hairnets in the Museum of London book (13th-14th c.) are netted. This is done with fine silk and a netting shuttle -- just like fishnets only finer. I haven't been able to quite figue out how to do it yet -- I think I need to watch someone actually doing it. However, instructions are available, and Lacis in Berkeley sells fine netting shuttles (or at least they used to). The same technique is used to make net for embroidered net lace -- it's a square net, not like the hexagonal net you find in fabric stores now. Fine netting was a common ladies' needlework technique through the 19th century -- you may be able to find more info in a 19th c. needlework manual, as well. Karen Walter walter@tandem.physics.upenn.edu ----------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 10:01:17 -0700 From: Mary Seabrook Subject: snoods Sorry about sending Donna's mail back unaltered, finger troubles struck! No time for details, but I beleive sprang is an earlier construction method for hairnets/snoods. Mary -- mary@ossi.com DOD#1399 +1 408 456 7813 93' VX800 "Not sysad anymore! - whipee!" ----------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 13:17:55 +0800 From: Alexandra.Ohlson@Corp.Sun.COM (Alexandra R. Ohlson) Subject: re-enactment pointer Hi - Quick semi-costume related question. I told my sister, who lives near Bostom, about this group and she, being internet deprived, was wildly jealous. I then told her about the pointer I had gotten towards a Regency related group here in the Bay Area and she was even MORE jealous. Could anyone give me any pointer for the Boston area for anything like this, period of say 17770 onward? Thanks much, alexandra ----------------------------------- From: LONEAGMA@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 17:27:00 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Whole costumer's costume I just recieved an answer to my request for a catalog. They want 18$ (no mention of credit on future purchase). Has anyone got this catalog and is it worth the expense? I'm moving up in skill and accuracy in historical costuming 1100-1600 and want sources for shoes, etc. Any help appreciated. Ally anonymous ignore the above loneagma@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu ---------------------------- End of Volume 120 -----------------------