From: Gretchen Miller Date: Wed, 6 Jul 1994 19:53:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 122, 7/6/94 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 122, July 6, 1994 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Snoods/Netting Question and answer:Spats seen in "Cyrano" HMSO books in/out of stock Sources for 17th C Massachusetts costume 2nd RFD: rec.crafts.textiles reorganization Dance and Dress events calendar offer, and lost address Return from Kentwell ---------------------------- From: SLFOWLER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 08:13:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 120, 6/28/9 RE: Snoods Scanning the thread, as a Ren Italian persona in the SCA the subject of snoods is near and dear to my heart. As a person who has made both crocheted and netted snoods: yes, netting is "period" but crocheting is much easier. Technique for netting is to net in the round, patterns and how-to can be found in DMC Encyclopedia, etc. but newer books on Lacis are easier to follow along. Yes, Lacis (the store) DID carry netting "needles" and I believe they still do (hopefully my new catalog from them is in the snail). I did one using Knit-Cro-Sheen and seed beads and found it was nice but a bit flimsy. There is a metallic cord out for plastic canvas that looks to be just about the right thickness for a netted snood. My crocheted snood used a "net stitch" pattern of chains and sc's worked in the round. I just looked at some doily patterns in MAGIC CROCHET and combined them to get the look I wanted. I will probably write for Cate Grundy's pattern, tho' to see how she does hers. Good luck on your snoods! Korwyn ---------------------------- From: Kelly_A_Rinne@MTS.cc.Wayne.edu Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 11:03:30 EDT Subject: "Cyrano" Gretchen: Could you send the following question out on line? This "newbie" to the line most recently saw a production of "Cyrano" @ Stratford, where the designer gave our namesake a most interesting addition to his boots: A type of "spat"(for lack of a better term) that is butterfly-shaped and fits over the top of boot, the strap fastening around the heel and not under. What is this, where did it come from, does it or did it have a purpose, or is it just artistic licence? I'm betting on the latter - Thanks all - Kelly Rinne (z0a8@MTS.CC.WAYNE.EDU) ---------------------------- Date: 29 Jun 1994 08:46:48 -0800 From: "Gleason, Robert" Subject: RE: Museum of London books Hi all, I called HMSO in Maryland a few months ago about the book "Shoes and Pattens". They said it was "indefinately out of stock". Maybe this is just a problem in the states, I don't know. If any of you know otherwise or know where I can get a copy please please please please post. Robert Gleason _______________________________________________________________________________ ---------------------------- From: Auctor@aol.com Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 14:25:16 EDT Subject: 17th Century Clothing > I'm looking for accurate, detailed information on the clothing worn in the English countryside from about 1600 to 1640 and in the Mass. Bay Colony from about 1630 to 1720. Please e-mail replies to auctor@aol.com. Thank you. :] ---------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 14:31:28 -0500 (CDT) From: Cynthia Abel Subject: 17th century costume I have an ongoing project researching the Salem Witchcraft trials. I too, would like any sources for clothing worn in the Bay area circa 1690. About the only mention I've unearthed is the wearing of silk tiffany hoods--a luxury item I presume as females got hauled before the local court if they were wearing them and their husbands/fathers didn't have an estate valued at X number of pounds. Reply to me or the list as you think interest warrants. I know at least the upper crust Puritans in Massachusetts kept up with fashion and the Puritans as a whole didn't go around garbed in gray, black or brown--there were lots of colors used, but what about textiles and styles, especially for women? Cindy Abel brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu Interlibrary Loan Health Sciences Library Creighton University 2500 California St Phone 402-280-5144 Omaha NE 68178-0400 Fax 402-280-5134 ---------------------------- From: sclark@epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Subject: Re: Museum of London Books Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 16:18:14 -0400 (EDT) Greetings! I mentioned at an earlier posting that Oxbow books was carrying the MoL books. I spotted them with actual copies at the Kalamazoo Medieval Studies Conference in May. Unfortunately, I tossed out their order form a week or two ago because the conference discount had expired. They are, I believe, a British company. If anyone knows their address, they might be worth a try. Cheers-- Susan Carroll-Clark University of Toronto sclark@epas.utoronto.ca ---------------------------- From: sclark@epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Subject: Re: Cyrano Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 16:22:02 -0400 (EDT) Greetings... Seventeenth century clothing is pretty much out of my area of expertise, but I do do English Civil War reinacting. The "butterfly spats" mentioned seem to have some validity in actual historical practices, because I've seen them on a number of ECW reinactors, who seem to be pretty serious about what they're doing with their impressions and kit. That's all *I* know, though-- Susan Carroll-Clark University of Toronto sclark@epas.utoronto.ca ---------------------------- From: quilt@otto.ycc.yale.edu Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 16:51:28 -0400 Subject: 2nd RFD: rec.crafts.textiles reorg Here is the 2nd RFD for the expansion/reorganization of rec.crafts.textiles. As you can see, the main new points from the last are the expansion of the proposed r.c.t.xstitch to r.c.t.needlework, and the renaming of existing groups so textiles stay together better. Thanks to all of you who took the time to discuss the last proposal and hammer out better definitions and terminology. Every bit of help is appreciated :-). As usual, please follow up with posts to news.groups, or with private mail to the originator, not with anything to this list. Thanks. Marie-Christine quilt@otto.cis.yale.edu ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2nd REQUEST FOR DISCUSSION REC.CRAFTS hierarchy expansion and reorganization: unmoderated group rec.crafts.textiles.yarn unmoderated group rec.crafts.textiles.needlework unmoderated group rec.crafts.textiles.sewing, replacing alt.sewing rename rec.crafts.quilting to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting rename rec.crafts.textiles to rec.crafts.textiles.misc unmoderated group rec.crafts.marketplace Newsgroups lines: rec.crafts.textiles.yarn Production and use of yarn: spin, dye, knit, weave etc rec.crafts.textiles.needlework Any form of decorative stitching done by hand rec.crafts.textiles.sewing Sewing: clothes, furnishings, outdoors, costumes etc rec.crafts.textiles.quilting All about quilts and other quilted items rec.crafts.textiles.misc All fiber and textile crafts not covered elsewhere rec.crafts.marketplace Small-scale ads for craft products of all kinds CHARTERS NAME: rec.crafts.textiles.yarn STATUS: Unmoderated. PURPOSE: This group will be for discussions about all aspects of yarn production and use not covered by other newsgroups. This would cover selection and preparation of different fibers, their properties, and what to do next such as dye, card, spin, felt, knit, crochet, nalbinding, weave, some kinds of rug hooking etc.... Discussions might cover color theory and other aspects of design, pattern drafting, fit, specific finishing techniques, supplies and equipment, historical aspects etc. NAME: rec.crafts.textiles.needlework STATUS: Unmoderated. PURPOSE: This group will be for discussions about needlework, as defined by 'any form of decorative stitching done by hand'. Included will be all variations of stitchery: stamped embroidery, counted thread stitching, and needlepoint. Discussion might cover different kinds of canvases and fabric grounds, flosses, needles and other supplies, pattern design, marking, and finishing etc. NAME: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing STATUS: Unmoderated. PURPOSE: This group will be for discussions about all aspects of sewing, not covered by other newsgroups, whether for for clothes, home furnishings, outdoor equipment, costumes, etc. Technical aspects include pattern drafting and fitting, different fabrics, notions, useful books, workshops and shows, inspiration, sewing machines, sergers and other hardware, etc. NAME: rec.crafts.textiles.quilting STATUS: Unmoderated PURPOSE: [unchanged] This newsgroup is for discussing anything related to quilting. That includes piecing, applique, and tyeing and quilting by hand or machine. Discussions may cover techniques, supplies, equipment, drafting of patterns, templates, dyeing materials, artistic approaches, exhibitions, shows, books and other references, mail order resources, dating quilts and appraising quilts. Discussions may include quilts and quilting both past (historical quilting) and present, ethnic quilting, quilts to be used in a home, quilted clothing to be worn, as well as quilts created for display and any other piecing or quilting applications. NAME: rec.crafts.textiles.misc STATUS: Unmoderated PURPOSE: [list of appropriate crafts deleted, as this changes too much] This newsgroup is for discussing all fiber and textile related interests that are not covered by another rec.crafts.textiles group. Discussions may cover techniques, supplies and equipment, drafting of patterns, artistic approaches, exhibitions or shows, books or other references. Textiles includes both textiles to be worn or used in the home or textiles created for display. NAME: rec.crafts.marketplace STATUS: Unmoderated PURPOSE: This group will get all the ads for fiber, fabric, crafts supplies and so on that otherwise would clutter the other rec.crafts groups. This should preferably be restricted to individuals or very small companies who really can't afford other advertising. BACKGROUND AND RATIONALE There is a 'knit' mailing list that has been in existence over a year, currently has 425 subscribers, and receives close to its maximum of 80 messages per day. This list also covers spinning and dyeing, fitfully, but weavers are left to clamor for attention on rec.crafts.textiles. The list is run on a machine administered by the founder's spouse, which is groaning under the overload. It makes sense to put into a single newsgroup all aspects of yarn production and use, since these things are often related and people who practice one often practice several of the others, sooner or later. The dyeing techniques for fleece for instance are usually different from the ones that'd be likely to be discussed on rec.crafts.quilting, both in dyes used and in effects aimed for, but they'd apply for both knitting and weaving. There is currently no group of any kind for needlework, so stitchers are left with only rec.crafts.textiles, where most of the postings (about 200 messages/week total) are now directly related to different kinds of embroidery (and, it may be added, not also useful to other fields). The first RFD (for r.c.t.xstitch, which was too limited) seems to have had the effect to have r.c.t. discovered by more stitchers and to accentuate this trend :-)! The current group alt.sewing has been going strong for over 4 years, and still receives an average of 20-40 messages a day, even with its limited distribution. It was meant to be superceded by rec.crafts.textiles when that group was created, but rec.crafts.textiles instead took on a more general character, discussing all kinds of fiber techniques, There is still enough of a desire for a specific sewing forum, and postings, to justify a separate group. The creation of all these groups under rec.crafts.textiles makes sense because the tree can then be maintained as a whole by newsadmins everywhere, semi-automatically in many cases. Let me just quote David Lawrence here: 'sites that have limited feeds but have a specific interest in sewing ... and other textile crafts (apart from quilting) already get rec.crafts.textiles. They would automatically get the new groups with the names as proposed. They would have to manually intervene to set up the other groups if they are not getting the entire rec.crafts hierarchy.' But then 2 previously existing groups are left in an ankward position. Rec.crafts.textiles should clearly be renamed rec.crafts.textiles.misc to conform to prevailing usenet conventions, and to better reflect its function. And rec.crafts.quilting should also be moved to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting so it's not left alone, separated artifically from other textile-related groups. As many other Internet groups lately, the rec.crafts groups are being more and more consistently inundated with advertising, ranging from the semi- acceptable 'I'm cleaning out the garage and would anyone want 10 balls of yellow mohair' to blatant commercialism. The rec.crafts.marketplace group would be an attempt to contain this advertising to a single group and not inflict it on unwilling parties. REQUEST FOR DISCUSSION (RFD) DISTRIBUTION This RFD will be sent to the following newgroups: news.announce.newgroups news.groups alt.sewing rec.crafts.textiles rec.crafts.quilting rec.crafts.misc rec.arts.misc rec.org.sca And to the following mailing lists: quiltnet@emuvm1.cc.emu.edu Main quilting discussion list notrad-l@yalevm.cis.yale.edu Non-traditional quilt list knit@geom.umn.edu Knitting list h-costume@lunch.asd.sgi.com Historical costume list f-costume@lunch.asd.sgi.com Fantasy costume list Followups will be directed to news.groups, as per USENET guidelines. Hopefully, any subsequent voting will be conducted by a neutral third party. -- Marie-Christine Mahe quilt@otto.cis.yale.edu ---------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Jun 94 10:36:10 PST From: "Cindy" Subject: Lost person Gentlepersons, Forgive me for using this forum, but I've lost Loren's email address at the Cal Academy of Sciences. I promised her a Calendar of Dance & Dressup events in the SF bay area and cannot send it. In recompense for the excessive use of bandwidth allow me to offer the calendar to others. --cin cin@caere.com "Tea is altogether too delicate a creature for cream." --"Miss Manners", Judith Martin ---------------------------- From: Mrs C S Yeldham Date: 05 Jul 94 09:19:00 BST Subject: Return from Kentwell Hello - I'm back from Kentwell and looking forward to catching up. A report on Kentwell will follow when I have time (I am currently moving two offices!) Caroline (I finally got the Angelus off pat!) ---------------------------- End of Volume 122 -----------------------