From: Gretchen Miller Date: Fri, 13 Jan 1995 19:19:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 208, 1/13/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 208, January 13, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Medieval dance video ISO Zoot suit pattern ISO late 18th C Great coat pattern Walter's indispensible sources Queen Margot, the movie Question and answer: 18th C underwear for Cosi Fan Tutte 17th C garters More comments on The Annotated Arnold Anyone know about Restoration, the movie? Is Marian's shoulder cape in "Robin Hood--Prince of Theives" documentable? ISO Info on Janet Arnold's underwear book New costuming books from Dover Publications "Costume in Detail" ISO Janet Arnold's address ---------------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Jan 1995 16:07:01 -0800 (PST) From: Dianne Karp Subject: dance video I found the following dance video at the Un of Nevada Reno library (although they didnt have Playford or much of anything else). I found it to be interesting and wondered if anyone knew of others. It is entitled ~Il Ballarino: The Art of Renaissance Dance~. It was produced/narrated by Julia Sutton and put out by Dance Horizons Video, Princeton Book Co., Pennington, NJ, 1991. ISBN 0-87127-170-2. Dianne ---------------------------- Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 18:46:10 PST From: denique@prostar.com (Denique') Subject: pattern HELP...please...:) I am looking for a zoot suit pattern and would like to find one SOON!! can yu help me? thanks in advance, my e-mail address is denique@prostar.com ---------------------------- Date: Sat, 7 Jan 1995 10:09:40 -0500 From: sulcus@ahoynet.com Subject: Great Coat Pattern I'm looking for an authentic great coat pattern, circa 1770-1780. Can anyone help with sources. Thanks, Bob Lawler ---------------------------- Date: Sat, 7 Jan 1995 18:06:45 -0400 (AST) From: Marie Doyle Subject: Indispensible Sources Here are some sources I have in my collection: most are in print, or at least in a local library. History of Costume: History of Fashion James Laver Nice, concise collection of history. great color plates. Anything else by this author is quite good. A History of Costume Very useful, but not my favorite. Includes patterns. Women's costume: Patterns of Fashion 1-3 Janet Arnold This series of three (so far) covers 1560-1940, with detailed scale patterns of the costume, and notes on construction. very accurate. The Cut of Women's Clothes Norah Waugh Very detailed sketches and patterns with a great collection of people's comments on fashion of the day from 1600- 1930. Men's Costume: The Cut of Men's Clothes Norah Waugh A companion piece to the Cut of Women's Clothes. Equally informative, with scale patterns. The Tailor and Cutter Academy Systems of Cutting W D F Vincent Tailoring systems from the turn of this century. Great to modify. The modern outfitter and clothier A more modern look at tailoring up to the 50's I hope these are helpful, take care with the modifying the patterns, because they are made to fit period bodies, not our modern shapes. Good luck, and remember, sew only for good and not for evil. Walter mdoyle@sparc.uccb.ns.ca ---------------------------- From: DENNPAT@aol.com Date: Sun, 8 Jan 1995 19:42:53 -0500 Subject: movie I just purchased a book titled 'Queen Margot' by Alexandar Dumas. The cover shows an actress dressed in a late 16th century red and silver brocade dress. At the bottom is a note stating "now a major motion picture from Miramax Films". The local video stores have no information. Anyone have any information on this film? -- Dennpat@aol.com ---------------------------- Date: Sun, 8 Jan 1995 19:53:37 -0500 From: eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear Newman) Subject: Re: movie Subject: Re: movie This film is _about_ to be released. Look for it to hit the movie theatres soon. They just got out a reprint of the book early. Cindy J. On Sun, 8 Jan 1995 DENNPAT@aol.com wrote: > I just purchased a book titled 'Queen Margot' by Alexandar Dumas. The cover > shows an actress dressed in a late 16th century red and silver brocade dress. > At the bottom is a note stating "now a major motion picture from Miramax > Films". The local video stores have no information. > Anyone have any information on this film? > -- > Dennpat@aol.com > ---------------------------- Date: Sun, 8 Jan 1995 18:14:48 -0800 (PST) From: Catherine Kehl Subject: Re: movie Just got home from seeing said same movie, in fact. It's playing at one of the local "art" theatres, so I don't know how easy it will be to find.... Lovely film, not a period I'm familiar enough with to really critique the costume, but I liked what I saw. (But as much of the movie was spent on people outside of clothes as was spent on those wearing them, and many of those were coverd in blood, some dead, some not...) Catherine ---------------------------- From: JMavis0314@aol.com Date: Sat, 7 Jan 1995 00:38:05 -0500 Subject: 18th Century Woman's Clothing My daughter is appearing as Dorabella in the Fort Worth Opera production of Mozart's Cosi fan Tutte. Did 18th Century Italian women wear bloomers or like inderwear. An active boudoir scene would be more modest for her if she could wear pantaloons/bloomers...since a diaphanous piece of lingerie might prove too revealing. Can you help? Thank you...Jason C. Mavis (JCMavis0314@aol.com) ---------------------------- From: MICHELLH@queens.lib.ny.us Date: Sun, 8 Jan 1995 14:19:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: garters You may want to check out the Gunister Dig records circa 1640(ithink) they are knitted out of wool Michell Hackwelder opinions expressed are not those of the queens public library. ---------------------------- From: ejp@watson.ibm.com Subject: Re: 18th Century Woman's Clothing Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 12:42:53 -0500 A knee-length chemise is unassailably correct, and needn't necessarily be diaphanous. Add skin-colored tights, if they want to get really extreme about their activity. :) cheers, ejp -------- Elizabeth Poole Yorktown Heights, NY ejp@watson.ibm.com ---------------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 15:25:50 -0500 (EST) From: Elizabeth McMahon Subject: Re: The Annotated Arnold On Fri, 16 Dec 1994, Cynthia Abel wrote: > Thank you Fran for your comments. My own amateur opinion here is > that we have a costume historian of long standing and a theatrical tailor > of less working experience. Both have valid points and opinions and > there is naturally some personal and professional clashes one can expect > because you have basically two different mind sets looking at the same > subject. For me, Arnold's works are both a fascinating historical study I'm sorry to bring this up, but I was discussing it with a friend over the holidays, and she reminded me that when we asked Ms. Arnold how she had gotten involved in all of this study (when we saw her speak at the Met in the spring last year), she replied that she'd started out a tailor, and was curious about how these techniques developed. Pretty ironic given our discussions of the differences between the two ;*). Welcome back to the New Year everyone. Has everyone made New Year's Resolutions to finish all of their as yet incomplete projects? You should see the list I taped up to the wall over the sewing machine...Sigh! -*-*- Beth in the office 212-741-4400 ---------------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 12:44:38 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Hall Subject: Restoration (the movie) Yesterday's discussion about movies reminded me of a book I saw in a local book store. It's called RESTORATION and it's supposedly "now a motion picture from Miramax" it's a novel about 17th (I believe) century england. It sounds really interesting...only I haven't heard anything about this movie. Anyone have any info regarding? Thanks -Grotesque and Arabesque -Sir.Real ---------------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 13:03:48 -0800 (PST) From: Gwen Carnegi Subject: 14th century womens'shoulder cape? Greetings Last weekend I attended a historical costume event. One woman was wearing a very striking green coathardie with what appeared to be a beautiful beaded shoulder cape with a high collar. I thought about it some more after I left the site and I think I remembered seeing one on Marian in the Costner- Robin Hood. I looked through book after book and I can not a visual and written reference to one. But then, that century is not my strong point. I can anyone help me to document this garment? Is the back collar cut in one piece with the back panel like elizabethian high collar garments? It was truely beautiful and I would like to make one myself Thank you very much G. Carnegie ---------------------------- From: "Lassman, Linda" Subject: Janet Arnold Books Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 15:46:00 PST In the text to her earliest-period book, Janet Arnold talked about putting out a volume covering things like chemises, corsets and other undergarments of the period which were not properly speaking tailored items, but which would be of interest to modern costumers/re-creaters/costume historians. Does anyone know what ever happened to that project? - Linda Lassman Winnipeg, Manitoba ---------------------------- From: close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: New Dover Books Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 17:05:58 -0800 (PST) I just received Dover's Winter 1995 catalog and they list a few new books of possible interest to h-costume people: _56 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns_ by Kristina Harris, $9.95 (Dressmaker's patterns for fashions from the 1890's from "The Voice of Fashion".) _Wedding Fashions, 1860-1912_ by JoAnne Olian, $9.95. (380 costume illustrations from "La MOde Illustree".) _Victorian Bride and Her Trousseau PaperDoll_ by Brenda Sneathen Mattox, $3.95 _The American Lady and the Lady of London PaperDolls_ by Museum of the City of New York, $4.95 (Mid-Victorian styles.) _"Little Women" PaperDolls_ by Tom Tierney, $3.95 (Dolls and outfits from "Little Women".) Dover does mail order via: Dover Publications, Inc. 31 East 2nd Street Mineola, N.Y. 11501 They don't do any phone orders. I'm not affiliated with them except as a happy customer! -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch today. :-) ---------------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 22:14:17 -0800 (PST) From: "erin k. gault" Subject: "Costume in Detail" I made a wonderful find in the library today. I found a new book (well, new to the library that is) in the costuming section. It's the 'Costume in Detail' by Nancy Bradfield. It's a very interesting book. One thing that especially grabbed my attention was the waist measurements given for the Victorian gowns. I (for some crazy reason) thought that most women were corseted way below 25". But most of the measurements hovered around 24 with a few being over 30. I was excited to see this because I thought that I wasn't going to look right if I wore a Victorian gown. But I can fit into most of the dresses with just a little corseting, some with no corseting at all! I know that wouldn't look right but it's fun to think about. Anyways, I am puzzled about one thing. I had heard before and also could tell that many of the gowns she drew were from Janet Arnold's books (it seemed like the majority were in fact) but I could not find any credit given to Janet Arnold anywhere. Am I missing it?? Or is there some strange reason she left her name out? ***************************************************************** * Erin K. Gault Evergreen State College * * Eglentyne de Gaulle College of Witt's Haven * * Barony of Glymm Mere, Kingdom of An Tir * * e-mail: gaulte@elwha.evergreen.edu * ***************************************************************** ---------------------------- From: Gregory Stapleton Date: Wed, 11 Jan 95 10:38:35 PST Subject: RE: Janet Arnold Does anyone have either/both a snail mail/email address for Ms. Janet Arnold? Thanks, Gregory ---------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Jan 1995 08:14:38 -0800 From: maynard@figaro.Eng.Sun.COM (Alexandra Rankin Ohlson) Subject: Re: "Costume in Detail" >> It's the 'Costume in Detail' by Nancy Bradfield. >>also could tell that many of the gowns she drew were from Janet Arnold's >>books but I could not find any credit given to Janet Arnold anywhere.... Actually, I believe that the gowns are not from Arnold's book, but rather that both authors used the same primary source. You'll notice that many of the gowns are from Snowdon (sp?) Manor (at least those from the earlier section of the book - early 19th cent). I believe the location of the gown is given in all cases. Hope it helps. alexandra ---------------------------- End of Volume 208 -----------------------