From: Gretchen Miller Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 17:58:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 263, 3/27/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 263, March 27, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Is CW-Reenactors list up yet? Flame retardancy of natural fibers ISO: Cheap linen source Question and answer: Help with Folkwear kilt pattern Good source for custom built masks Question and answers:1940's costume info Historic foot wear for the "must-fit" foot Question and answers: Info on Viking age costume ISO: Advice on cleaning mildew stains Ren-Faire costuming advice ----------------------- From: tmwass@main.citynet.net Date: Sun, 19 Mar 95 08:03:41 -0500 Does anyone know if cw-reenactors is up and running again ? It was a nice place to get ACW uniform information. Terry & Marlene ----------------------- From: Mrs C S Yeldham Date: 20 Mar 95 09:19:00 GMT Subject: Wool andFire Pam asked about fire retardant qualities of wool. Based on personal observation, wool is good stuff to wear around wood and charcoal fires. At the temperatures involved it tends to smoulder and char, it does not burst into flames and does not melt. Of course you can make anything burn if you get it hot enough, but manmade fibres are much more likely to melt on you at the temperatures we are dealing with. I've examined skirts and discovered burn holes/charring I knew nothing about at the time - and the possible results if I had been wearing manmade fibres makes me shudder. A small query, not really expecting a response, from David's last email - just because a previous discussion on Authenticity got acrimonious, and I know I played my part in this, are we never supposed to mention the word/concept again? It is an important element for me (and I was the one justifying using cotton!). Caroline ----------------------- From: LDulin@aol.com Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 10:25:56 -0500 Subject: cheap linen sources? I'm looking for a source of cheap, relatively light weight linen for late Roman & Coptic costumes. Can buy a bolt at a time, but do not have a resale number. Can any of you great people help? Leslie list lurker and lover ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 10:30:51 -0500 (EST) From: "Karen K. Adams" Subject: Re: your mail On Sun, 19 Mar 1995 tmwass@main.citynet.net wrote: > Does anyone know if cw-reenactors is up and running again ? It was a nice > place to get ACW uniform information. > > Terry & Marlene > I, too, would be interested in this group? Any information out there? Karen Adams ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Mar 1995 18:08:44 -0800 (PST) From: Catnip Subject: Help!!! Has anybody successfully made a kilt from the Folkwear instructions? I'm going insane trying to figure out the directions for the pleats. The kilt isn't supposed to wrap around twice, is it? What's the trick to getting 8 yards of fabric to fit a man with a 34" waist? Any and all help woll be greatly appreciated! Thanks! - Dorothy cantip@crl.com ----------------------- Subject: Re: software and masks Date: Sat, 18 Mar 95 09:36:36 PST From: Rob_C._Bradshaw@blt.berkeley.ca.us (Rob C. Bradshaw) I don't know if this information is too late (I'm just going to assume it is and make my apologies now for my over-busy schedule that left me to read three weeks worth of mail tonight) but here it is anyway. I just finished designing and building a production of "Volpone" done in the commedia style complete with masks for each character. Knowing that the six weeks I had to build 18 very different and authentic Italian Renaissance costumes would not leave me much time for masks etc. I contacted a business I had seen at the northern Faire called Masque Arrayed. The owner is a very nice lady named Annie Hallat who worked very closely with me and the confines of the show. We decided on styles and colors based on the actual commedia masks and she custom painted everything to match the costumes. Her prices are quite reasonable and she knows quite a bit about various masks from all kinds of sources (Indian, Mardi Gras, Fantasy etc.) The are a cotton paper base so they are light weight but sturdy. No I am not an employee ..... I dont have the phone # with me but she's listed with the 510 directory assistance on Carlton St in Berkeley CA. She can fax or mail a brief catalog and price list and work cross country on the phone if necessary. Good luck anyway and remember - DONE IS BEAUTIFUL!!!! Berkeley Learning Technologies, Inc. (510) 658-2800 ----------------------- Date: Sun, Mar 19, 1995 3:41 AM From: "Daniel A Salas" Subject: costumes- 1940's I am looking for a source for pictures or sketches for costumes for a 1940's musical. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My wife directs high school theatre and I am helping her look for ideas for costumes. I believe the name of her play is "The Musical Comedy Murders". Thanks ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 11:56:05 -0600 (CST) From: Gwyndlyn J Ferguson Subject: Re: Shoes for costumes On Fri, 17 Mar 1995, Amy Coddington wrote: > When you're making a costume, and want it as authentic as possible in > cut, what do you do for shoes? I've been researching costumes from 1100 > to 1900 and there are a couple I will make as soon as I finish drafting a > pattern, but I'm not interested in learning shoemaking right now and I'm > not willing to pay large sums of money for shoes I may wear once a year. > On the other hand, I'm diabetic and must be careful of foot infections, > so barefoot is out and I'm wary of mail-order shoes unless they can be > returned if they don't fit right. > Amy, I have an arch problem and can appreciate your difficuly in finding shoes for re-enacting which are inexpensive, yet look appropriate. For the earlier periods which you cover (1100-1400) I have found that the casual shoe that was so popular last summer is perfect. It has a closed toe and a short "t" strap, with a rubber sole. The good shoes are Dexters, but I bought a discount store copy which held up through Pennsic war (a week in the rain) and I am still wearing them. These are vaguely similar to the low ladies shoes of the period, including the t-strap. The rubber sole is unobtrusive (and comfortable) and they tend to be hidden under long skirts anyway. Since my pair lasted far longer that I had expected, I haven't looked recently. But a good shoe store ought to still have the style in stock. Good luck with your search, gf *Gwyn Ferguson***Western Illinois University *SCA: Lady Gwyndlyn Caer Vyrddin***Lochmorrow-Midrealm *Internet: mugjf@bgu.edu ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 09:55:16 PST From: Eleanor Farrell Subject: Costumes - 1940s musicals In response to Daniel Salas' request: There are lots of books (try the library and new and used bookstores) on Hollywood musical films, and films from the 1940s, etc. Most of these have many still photos from the movies. Stills are also available from several sources, including: National Film Information Service, 8949 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA; 310/247-3020. (Alison Kondo published this source earlier.) Hollywood Book and Poster Company, Hollywood. 213/465-8764. Both of these places, I believe, will do mail orders. Good luck! Ellie Farrell ----------------------- From: Willie Peloquin Subject: Viking woman's persona info needed. Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 12:44:26 EST hello, My lady is interested in doing research in the Viking era. She would like her persona to be that of a Viking. She views the Viking woman as a strong, independent person who stayed behind to raise and defend a family and protect the village until the time the men returned, if the men returned at all. Could someone direct me towards any books, or net resources which would help her define her persona and guide her in the creation of accurate clothing and accessories. She will be fighting at some point in time, so armor and weapon types would also be appreciated. In our research we have come across a few texts on Vikings, but none go into detail on the women. Thanks in advance, Willie ----------------------- From: LIVERMORE@BINAH.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 14:17:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: shoes for costumes Amy, I strive for authenticity whenever possible, but...I have flat feet. Last year I went through the Pennsic war in a pair of bright pink and purple hiking boots, because of all the shoes I own, these alone truly fit my weird feet. Under long skirts, I don't believe anyone noticed. Or perhaps they were too nice to comment (surely I wouldn't CHOOSE to wear such awful shoes as a medieval fashion accessory). My humble advice is to dress as period as pleases you, if possible, but don't compromise your shoes. I became convinced of the wisdom in this upon viewing my great-grandmother's feet (born 1890) after a lifetime of bad shoes. Good luck in your search! Wish I could offer more concrete advice. Yours in a similar predicament, -- Anne ----------------------- From: alana_guy@broder.com Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 11:39:26 Subject: Need Advice on Cleaning Mildew Stains A co-worker posted this SOS on our bulletin board; I thought perhaps someone might be able to help. You folks are always so generous with good advice! Thanks in advance. _______________________ Help! This weekend I was going through my closet, in which I store all my nice and expensive clothing, and noticed mildew on almost every single piece of clothing. I have at least fifty items in there and there is NO way I can afford to have them all dry cleaned by professionals. Do you know of any do-it-at-home dry cleaning product you can purchase? Is there something I can put in my closet to absorb moisture? ----------------------- From: DENISE@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 15:03:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Viking Clothing The Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) publishes a quarterly pamphlet series called Complete Anachronist (CA). An excellent CA was published 2-3 years ago on Northern European clothing ca. 650-1100. In addition to giving great detail on Viking clothing and accoutrements, it also had an incredible bibliography (pages and PAGES of citations from scholarly articles/journals/ books on actual archeological digs, etc.). This is the single best source I have ever seen on Viking costume. Back issue copies of the CA can be ordered from the Stock Clerk of the SCA for (I think) $3 plus postage. If there is interest, I will post the exact citation and ordering information. Hope this helps. Denise Zaccagnino known as Lady Deonora Ridenow in the SCA ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 16:20:49 -0500 (EST) From: Tempest Subject: Re: Viking Women's Clothing I, for one, would be very interested in ordering information for those pamphlets. Cheers! Gale -- tempest@access.digex.net * "I said 'she must be swift and white * And subtly warm and half perverse "She's an animal in disguise! * And sweet like sharp soft fruit to bite, She's a mammal!" * And like a snake's love lithe and fierce.'" ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 16:35:28 EST Subject: promised materials - apology For all of you out there to whom I promised patterns or information, I have not forgotten or forsaken you. I have been up to my ears in alligators (they got past my butt a long time ago) at work, so have not been able to get everything copied, prepared, etc. But I have everyone's address and will be getting it all out to you ASAP. Thanks for your patience. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 16:26:32 EST Subject: Re: Shoes for costumes For Amy in regard to shoes: I suggest you find a good book on the history of shoes (I'll post a couple of citations if you need them) and study the illustrations carefully. Then, with a picture in mind of what you want, hunt shoe stores, thrift shops and yard sales. Better yet, make a copy of what you're looking for, so you can compare. It's amazing what you can find. I went to PayLess one night and came away with perfect 18th century tapestry mules (Just added a little ruched ribbon and they were nearly identical to a pair I'd seen in a museum catalogue), brocade Victorian lace-up boots, and WWI-era laced shoes -- all for about $55 total. I found a pair of real Edwardian boots that looked like they'd never been worn, at a flea market. They fit like they were made for me. I even lucked into a pair of black suede thigh-high pointy-toed, flat heeled boots with black leather turndowns for $50 because they wouldn't fit anyone else. More and more lately, earlier shoe styles are being copied and adapted, like the 18th century "Louie" heel. Pointy-toed "Mary Janes" like we wore as children, work well for a lot of medieval periods. Short-pointy toed boots (I think I got mine at Thom McAn) are useful. Luckily, most people in the SCA aren't authenticity police, and "close enough for jazz" will work pretty well. As long as they aren't screamingly modern... And luckily, if you wear your hemlines long enough to touch the ground, you can get away with a lot. Good luck. Kathleen (Mistress Alyson of Islay, Kingdom of Atlantia) kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 16:31:16 EST Subject: Re: Help!!! Haven't tried the Folkwear pattern, but no, it shouldn't go around twice. You should knifepleat the bejabbers out of the fabric; it almost doubles back on itself. It is tightly pleated in such a way that the pattern of the tartan still shows through all the pleating. If you can find a rear view of a gentleman wearing a kilt, study it to see how tightly it is pleated. Good luck. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 15:03:46 -0800 (PST) From: Deborah Tarsiewicz - 3528981 Subject: Renaissance Faire Costume Greetings! I'm very glad I subscribed to this list. It has been both interesting and enlightening. I now find myself with a specific question to ask and I am hoping someone can provide an answer. I plan to go to the Renaissance Faire to be held soon in San Bernardino. I hope to go as a young middle-class woman and the two friends accompanying me plan to go the peasant route. I have books that have given me ideas as regards style but nothing that discusses specific colors or fabrics that would be suitable for either class. I know I need to use natural materials, preferably fabric that one can stay cool in during hot summer days. This suggests such options as cotton, linen, etc. I'd like to be fairly authentic. Also, a particular book I have discusses middle-class women wearing boned bodices. Would this type of bodice be worn instead of a corset and could/did middle-class women also wear corsets and unboned bodices. A sincere thank you in advance for any and all help. Deborah Tarsiewicz :) ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 15:12:45 -0800 From: Alison Kondo Subject: 1940's clothing What about those dover reprints by decade... "Everyday Fashions of the 19..'s as shown in Sears & other catalogues" (or some similar title). THey might help, or you could check your local library for back issues of original magazines & catalogues. Alison ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 15:15:01 -0800 From: Alison Kondo Subject: Shoes I haven't tried any of them, but I did notice Rainments carries shoe patterns from the medieval, renaissance & mountain man periods. Maybe one of these would be a start? Alison ----------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 16:40:08 -0500 (EST) From: "Karen K. Adams" Subject: Re: costumes- 1940's On Sun, 19 Mar 1995, Daniel A Salas wrote: > I am looking for a source for pictures or sketches for costumes for a 1940's > musical. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My wife directs high school > theatre and I am helping her look for ideas for costumes. I believe the name of > her play is "The Musical Comedy Murders". Thanks > > You might want to send away for a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods in Davenport, IA. They have a variety of patterns from many different time period, including the 40's. At the very least, the pictures will be useful to you. They have an 800 number, but I'm not sure what it is right now. Hope this helps. Karen ----------------------- End of Volume 263 -----------------------