From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #240 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, October 31 1995 Volume 3, Number 240 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: RE: infants costumes Re: infants costumes book info? tudor/elizabethan torso? Re: tudor/elizabethan torso? Costume Closet Cleaning RE: book info? FW: Tablet Weaving news!! Victorian Cravat Re: tudor/elizabethan torso? Re: Rose Beads Straw Hat Making Query ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 07:41:25 -0800 (PST) From: Margaret Griffith Subject: RE: infants costumes > I have done a number of costumes for my toddler, now 2, since > he was an infant. His first costume was a tiny loose fitting I am currently making a Cavalier outfit for my 20 month old son from a Rubens illustration. It is a semi-fitted gown over a loose smock, complete with coif and "black pudding". The "black pudding" is a padded headroll that goes around the forehead and protects it from bumps. The outfit also includes an apron bib over the chest for those bits of food that miss the mouth. It is very practical, but still period. Normally he wears t-tunics with a t-shirt (or sweatshirt, depending on the weather) underneath, and a pair of plain pants. His t-tunics are handed down from his older sister, and are still going strong. Meg Penrose ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 11:59:37 -0500 From: sunfire@muskoka.com (Stephen & Krista Fraser) Subject: Re: infants costumes >and I have become the resident baby-costumer. :) Any suggestions for an 8 month old boy?? I'm just not certain as to what little boys wore in 12th Century England. He's not walking yet, but soon will be. Krista sunfire@muskoka.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 95 12:08:36 EST From: andreah@cpsnet.com (Andrea Harrison) Subject: book info? I know this has been asked before, but... Can anyone give me the full title and ISBN # for the Janet Arnold book of patterns for the16- 17th centry? I don't remember the full period it encompases but I have volume one and it's just after the time period I'm looking for. It's going on my X-mas list so I need all the info I can get! Thanks! Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses. Hit it!" The Blues Brothers ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 95 13:35:23 EST From: andreah@cpsnet.com (Andrea Harrison) Subject: tudor/elizabethan torso? This may sound like a lame question,but.... Where do the breasts go?!?! I'm working on my first corset and have done lots of research on the "look" of the torso. I can't seem to find pictures of large busted women. I know that the corset flatens the line below the neckline and on me it also pushes them up to almost popping out of the dress. Does this mean the corset fits wrong? It comes too about 1/2-3/4" above the nipple. I can't believe that all English women were flat chested. Was this perhaps artistic liscence that the artists took? Have other women had this problem and how did you compinsate for this? Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses. Hit it!" The Blues Brothers ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 13:53:01 -0500 (EST) From: Drea Leed Subject: Re: tudor/elizabethan torso? Being large-busted myself (DD), I've found that the most period looking solution is not to shove them up as high as possible, but to flatten rather than to lift. My torso is slightly bulkier than it would be otherwise, but I can avoid the platter effect. I also use half-inch wide steel boning to keep the line of the corset straight. The end result is heaving bosoms, but not so much so that passers=-by are in danger of having an eye put out. And the sillouhette is period, too. Drea ******************************************* "When in doubt in a social situation, groom." -Raptor Red ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 10:44:45 -0800 From: cynthia@caere.com Subject: Costume Closet Cleaning This sale has raised over $250 for Ardenwood Farm. If you considered getting something and thought it might be too expensive, ask anyway. You might be surprised. Make counter offers, it's half the fun! Last call and thanks everyone! --cin C O S T U M E C L O S E T C L E A R A N C E or A Virtual Yardsale (updated 30 Oct) What remains of the 1890s and 1900s Victorian and Edwardian "waists" (ladies blouses) and capes. Fabulous for study of construction techniques. (estimates given in modern sizes) * Hand quilted bedjacket, navy silk with artichoke silk lining, size 6 or 8. * Black silk chemisette (sleeveless blouse) 1880s or 90s with cording and metallic thread. Excellent condition, size 10. * Lace blouse for "Edwardian whites", excellent condition. Lace insets, lace applique, lace couching. It's just lace. Back button, pigeon front. * A lace over cream silk "belt". * Short 90s cape, black dimity silk w/ lace over lace applique. Fragile, but fabulous construction, perhaps 14" neck. * Short 90s cape, black wool w/ silk tassled fringe and glass jet beadwork. Wearable, perhaps 15" neck. * "Aughts" black silk waist w/ chartreuse ribbon & velvet trim. Velvet is overlayed in smocked blk silk chiffon. Sounds wierd, but it works. Matching detachible collar in velvet & chiffon. Boned, wearable, maybe a 4 or a 6 petite. * Brown silk satin and cream silk chiffon waist with` 3/4 length sleeves; possibly a dinner gown bodice. 90s or "aughts", wearable, maybe a 2 or a 4 petite. Fabulous piece to copy if it's not your size. * Crisp black silk '90s waist, boned, rather business-like, with facings in a tiny pink check. Excellent condition, wearable, maybe a 4 or a 6 petite. 2 lovely 1940s Lace "jackets" to wear over lounging pyjamas (think Greta Garbo "I want to be alone"). Both in perfect condition. Cream one extends to mid-thigh, black is hip length. Peach & cream 1880s ladies street costume made for a Gilbert and Sullivan show. Very theatrical! Odd bits of fantasy costumes: Man's leather vest and coarse brown vest. Barbarian style rabbit-dyed-mink fur vest. Barbarian style black fur hat. Generally 44" chest. Heliotrope w/ grey pinstripe silk voile vintage ragtime era (World War I) dance frock. Very tiny and quite fragile. Cut steel(?) belt buckle, with heliotrope silk fringe at the ends. 2 beaded reticules (purses) 1 brown 1930s, one white unknown origin. 2 framed fashion plates from Godey's Ladies' Book, Dec 1869 and Aug 1870. Archival mats and denglass. (I have too many.) Childs coat (for age 10-14) in light grey wool. Probably 1950s, but would be great trimmed in ribbon for Civil War/ Dickens era. 3 dashikis from Kenya (it was a 70's thing). Wild colored African prints. Approx 32" and 34" chest sizes. Very keen! Hand embroidered round eyelet collar. Navy blue bodice (copied from Harper's Bazaar fashion plate circa 1884) with extra fabric for a skirt. Size 8 petite. Trimmed in cotton lace, red soutache & gold ribbon. Great for theater. A fur coat, probably rabbit dyed to look like mink, but what do I know? Length mid-thigh, modern size 8 or 10. Possibly 1950s. White rabbit fur mules, only 1" heel, size 7 1/2 or 8, excellent condition. White figure skates, size 8 or 9. Modern. Misc calico fabric, buttons (metal, fabric covered, bakelite, celluloid), eyelet trim, braid trim. Misc items in fur: collars & muffs. Lots of small feathers in parrot green. Red feather boa. 2 black feather boas. Extra sewing supplies. ... there's more -=-=-=-=-=- How this works: contact me and ask to see what you're interested in. We'll make arrangements. All items on a "Best Offer" basis. Everything will be sold or donated to non-profit museums or theater groups. Proceeds from vintage clothes benefit Ardenwood Farm State Historical Park in Fremont Calif. --cin Cynthia Barnes Sr. Software Engr Caere Corporation 100 Cooper Court Los Gatos CA 95030 408.395.5148 x2224 internet: Cynthia@caere.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 14:06:16 -0600 (CST) From: P_SHERYL@KCPL.LIB.MO.US Subject: RE: book info? > Can anyone give me the full title and ISBN # for the Janet Arnold book > of patterns for the16- 17th centry? I don't remember the full period Here you go: _Patterns of Fashion: 1560 to 1620_ by Janet Arnold ISBN: 0-89676-083-9 Drama Book Publishers $39.95 And you're better off getting it now because the price has gone up $10.00 since I bought mine 2 years ago. HTH! Sheryl J. Nance Kansas City MO Public Library p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 95 09:01:00 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: FW: Tablet Weaving news!! I thought h-costume people might be interested in this conference: - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: 25 Oct 95 16:19:05 EDT >From: LINDA J. HENDRICKSON <102617.362@compuserve.com> Subject: Tablet Weaving Here's a fact sheet on TWINE. You will need to contact Linda Malan for information on Marijke van Epen's workshops. I'm arranging Peter Collingwood's workshops, and there are no definite plans yet. TWINE Tablet Weavers International News Exchange Tablet weavers of any level of experience are encouraged to join TWINE, Tablet Weavers International News Exchange. Formed in July 1994, the group now has approximately 60 members from the US, Canada, The Netherlands, Denmark, England, France, Israel, and Australia. Pirkko Karvonen, a leading fiber craftsperson from Alberta, Canada, is coordinating a newsletter. It consists of material written by the members, and is distributed three times per year. Topics include letters, techniques, technical tips, historical articles, product news, and announcements of interest to tablet weavers. To join TWINE and receive the newsletter, send $ 9.00 if you live in the U.S. or Canada, or $12.00 if you live elsewhere, to: Pirkko Karvonen 373 - 22560 Wye Rd Sherwood Park, Alberta T8A 4T6 Canada Phone (403) 467-4254 TWINE CURRENT NEWS TWINE is sponsoring a workshop by the Dutch tablet weaver Marijke van Epen in July 1996, to be held in Seattle or Portland. Marijke has written books on Indonesian tablet weaving, and on the use of tablets to produce traditional designs from Peru and Bolivia. For information, contact: Linda Malan 830 Olympic Avenue Edmonds, WA 98020 USA Phone (206) 771-8072 TWINE is also planning a juried international tablet weaving exhibition, to be held at the First Unitarian Church in downtown Portland in July 1996, to coincide with Convergence 96. Additionally, Peter Collingwood, British author of The Techniques of Tablet Weaving, is now scheduling tablet weaving workshops to be held before and after Convergence 96 activities. For information on the exhibition and Peter's workshops, contact: Linda Hendrickson 140 SE 39th Avenue Portland, OR 97214-2002 USA Phone (503) 239-5016 The Techniques of Tablet Weaving, the most comprehensive reference ever written on the subject, is currently out of print. A new paperback edition is ready to be printed. To be sure you are on the mailing list to be notified when the new edition is available, please write to Linda Hendrickson (address above) or send supportive letters directly to: Peter Collingwood Old School, Nayland Colchester C06 4JH England Phone/Fax 011-44-1-206-262401 Below are the descriptions of the workshops Peter would like to teach: LETTERING IN TABLET WEAVING (INTERMEDIATE) Tablet-woven bands have traditionally been used as a means for weaving inscriptions, which could be political, religious, commemorative, or even amorous or humorous. This class will learn three ways of doing this; namely using S- and Z-twining, the versatile double-faced weave, and plain weave double-cloth with only two threads per tablet. But if you cannot think of anything to say, you can concentrate on other motifs, either traditional or self-engendered. Suitable for students who have already had at least one introductory class in tablet weaving and know how to make a continuous warp. ADVANCED There are some complex and little known forms of tablet weaving which include its use in a twill double-faced weave, in producing a two-sided velvet fabric, and in the products based on a modern form of the pasaka, an Indonesian implement making two-layered warp twining possible. This class will concentrate on these and other techniques. Suitable for students who have the normal double-faced weave under (or on) their belt and want to make the next step into the many possibilities of tablet weaving. For both classes: Duration: Three to five days, preferably the latter. Number: Up to 15 students Equipment: Each student would need two C-clamps, suitable warp yarn, heavy sword or shuttle for beating and about 40 tablets (more should be available in the class). Fee: 190 pounds sterling (you'll have to calculate what that comes to in Canadian dollars [Somewhere over $400Can]) plus lodging & travel expenses. Thanks for your help, and let me know what happens. Linda ==================== End of Forward ==================== - ------------------------------------- Ciao Ches E-mail: Ches@io.com This message was sent by Chameleon - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 20:10:16 -0500 From: PiranhaBB@aol.com Subject: Victorian Cravat Does anyone know the precise dimensions of a Victorian men's cravat? The one that I would like to construct would wrap around the neck once from the front with enough to have some nice hanging ends. Regarding the ends, should they be mitered, straight, or pointed? Thank you, Lisa PiranhaBB@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 18:55:36 -0800 (PST) From: "Sarah E. Goodman" Subject: Re: tudor/elizabethan torso? > This may sound like a lame question,but.... > Where do the breasts go?!?! I could show you easier that explain (and probably look pretty silly sititing in front of my computer pushing my bosom up and flat while I try to figure out how to describe this) but . . . They get pushed up and somewhat flattened. There is a slight hollow in the rib cage above the bust (actually, there may be one at the bust to, but it's already padded) into which they get pushed. > I know that the corset flatens the line > below the neckline and on me it also pushes them up to almost popping out > of the dress. Does this mean the corset fits wrong? I'd have to see to tell you. You want a smooth, flattish front. The breasts, if they show, will look rounded, slightly squished, and definately under control. You will, if you have any bust at all and are wearing a low cut gown without a partlet, have visable cleavage, but the breasts should not bulge out over the top of the corset or push farther towards the front than the line of the dress. If you are 'busting out all over' then the corset is cut to tight in the bust. You need to make it larger and let some the bust drop into the corset. If this makes you feel that you are falling entirely INTO the corset, so that you just look heavier and flat chested, then you need to make a small sausage roll of fabric to sew into the corset just below wherever you want the bottom of the breasts to be, for them to kind of sit on. (I honestly don't know if there is any historical justification for this, but it looks right from the outside and if this wasn't done they must have done SOMETHING. As to whether or not there were any stacked Elizabethans--certainly some but we in general carry more fat and get significantly better protein than they did then, so our averages are likely to be bigger. On the other hand, most portraits are of the more well-to-do, so at least they aren't usually significantly malnurished. A quick look through Boucher leads me to believe that in general larger busted women (and larger women in general, but their "low cut" bodices a bit higher or wore more closed styles. (Someone had asked about 20,000 years of fashion earlier, and one of the reasons I like it is that there are about 50 pictures of Tudor/Elizabethan women and you get a good over-view of differnet looks of the same period, which I find helpful when I don't want to recreate something but rather to create something fresh that, if I had a time machine, I could wear then without comment (as long as no one saw the stitching, anyway.) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 22:14:30 -0800 From: thomasg@slip.net (thomasg) Subject: Re: Rose Beads Reading the thread about rose beads made me curious. I remember reading something years ago about them, but I couldn't remember where or when. So in the spirit of research I went out to my rose tree (Double Delight, cream and pink petals, lovely scent) plucked off an aging blossom and pulled all the petals off. I plopped them into my morter and pestle (although if you had a bunch a food processor might work better) and ground them into a sticky, wet, nasty looking mass. Taking small bits and squeezing the excess juice out I formed rough beads, then I set them in a sunny window to dry. About a week later I had little rough brownish blobs that smelled like fresh roses. They looked nasty, but smelled nice. With a few refinements of technique I could see how one could make a very pleasant smelling rosary out of rose beads. I've had them now for several months and they are hard as pebbles and still smell good. Christy P. ------------------------------ Date: 31 Oct 95 12:33:00 GMT From: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: Straw Hat Making Query A request from a friend: Does anyone of the list know anything about Straw Hat making in 16th Century England? Thanks, Caroline Message header: Return-Path: Received: from mailhub.ggr.co.uk [147.184.146.69] by UKSYSA.ggr.co.uk ; 31 Oct 95 11:05:37 UT Received: from gate.ggr.co.uk (gate.ggr.co.uk) by mailhub.ggr.co.uk; Tue, 31 Oct 1995 11:08:50 GMT Received: from sun.leeds.ac.uk (sunserv1_ie0.leeds.ac.uk [129.11.28.1]) by gate.ggr.co.uk; Tue, 31 Oct 1995 11:11:20 GMT Received: from sun040.leeds.ac.uk.sun.leeds.ac.uk (csc4sej@sun040.leeds.ac.uk [129.11.228.40]) by sun.leeds.ac.uk (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id LAA15133 for ; Tue, 31 Oct 1995 11:13:04 GMT From: S E Jannoo Message-Id: <702.9510311113@sun040.leeds.ac.uk.sun.leeds.ac.uk> Subject: Can you post something to h-costume? To: csy20688@ggr.co.uk Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 11:13:01 BST X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0] ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #240 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!