From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #275 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, December 20 1995 Volume 3, Number 275 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Filet lace & caning Re: Sense & Sensibility natural black dyes Review: _Dressed for the Photographer_ Restoration Movie CostumeCon Black CostumeCon DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER Re: DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER Re: Restoration Movie Re: Restoration Movie Re: Restoration Movie Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #274 Re: CostumeCon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 17:42:59 -500 From: "Carol Kocian" Subject: Filet lace & caning Filet lace or netting is a non-crochet technique one can use for making snoods. I've found instructions on how to make it numerous places. If you buy a netting shuttle from Lacis (Berkeley, CA) it comes with directions. Several books that cover Victorian needlework include instructions, as well as the Shire album on the rope and fishing net industries. Netting was used to make bags as early as ancient Roman times. The fineness of your netting will depend on the size of your shuttle and your "mesh". The mesh is a stick used to keep the size of the holes even. Some of us have been known to make very thin shuttles by hammering the ends of a piece of wire then sawing out the U shape in the end to hold the thread. With very fine netting, one can embroider designs to make a fancier lace. (These techniques can also be found in those Victorian needlework books.) Erin Gualt was seeking caning to make a wheel farthingale. Hooping is sold by Greenberg & Hammer in New York City. It's the kind with two pieces of heavy wire glued into a buckram strip, about 1/2" wide. Metal strapping from a hardware store can also be used, since farthingales, hoops, etc. are not held next to your body like a corset! Buckram covered wire is also available from Needle and Thread in Gettysburg, PA. They also have all the correct fittings for making American Civil War era hoops. I don't know if they mail order. Of course, if you're looking for Elizabethan period correct material, this won't help you! -Carol Kocian ckocian@epe.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 00:45:53 -0500 From: Christy546@aol.com Subject: Re: Sense & Sensibility In a message dated 95-12-18 10:37:11 EST, CKOCIAN@epe.org (Carol Kocian) writes: > Was straw lace something that >was used on hats in that period or at any other time? (Please specify >the periods it *was* used if you know!!) Does anyone have a book to >recommend to learn the technique of making straw lace? Yes, Straw Lace was used on hats and on clothing also. It was very popular in the Regency, Edwardian and Victorian periods. There are a few museums with "salesmans" sample books of 1500 or more different varities of straw lace. Most of it was made in Switzerland. It was used to edge hats and clothing. At the end of the Victrorian age, the elaborate hats went out of style, and the swiss burned whole warehouses of the "stuff" they no longer had a market for. I personally own a vintage hat that is made entirely out of straw threads "crocheted" into a hat. The Victorians used straw threads to make all sorts of hat embelishments. They are crocheted or woven similar to needle lace. They are made into flowers, leaves, ferns, and other delightful little pieces to decorate their hats with. There are a small number of people who can reproduce these items (I am learning how to myself). For those of you who go to the Dicken Fair in San Francisco, the Corn Dollie booth has a few bonnets with some of these pieces from the 1880's on them. The gentleman who made the hats found some in an old millinary shop that has been around since that time, and had them tucked away not knowing what they were. So, if you are interested, stop by and take a look. Straw threads are made by taking soaked straw (wheat or rye are most often used) and splitting it into 6 or more equal strips. Two of these are spun on a wheel similar to making linen thread. The resulting threads are tied together to get the desired length, and are then woven, braided, crocheted, etc. There are several ways to learn how to do it. If you care for that information, please E-mail me privately. As for the hat in the movie, I have not seen it yet, but as described it is probably accurate to the general time period. Someone privately mentioned straw hats only lasting a couple of years. That is true of modern hats, but the fine Leghorns and hats of Millan or Tuscany straw could last easily for many many years. Hats a hundred years or more old can be found in museums (or antique stores, where I found mine). As a side note, it might interest some that the whole Millinery trade got its name from the hats that came from Millan, Italy. These hats were so fine that they became known as Millaners. So popular were they that they led to Millinery becomming the name for the entire trade. Christy Gilbreath American Museum of Straw Arts ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 09:32 CST From: ROBERT@UIAMVS.WEEG.UIOWA.EDU Subject: natural black dyes I found a couple sources for natural black dye in a Christmas present I was buying. Although I am the one that started the question, it sounded like there was more interest in this topic so I thought I would post it. In the book A Dyer's Garden : From Plant to Pot, Growing Dyes for Natural Fibers / Rita buchanan. Loveland, CO : Interweave Press, c1995. 1-8830-1007-1 She mentions using "Hardy hibiscus, rose mallow (Hibiscus hybrids)" with either alum or tin on wool, and a 3-day soak. She says to use the darkest red/rose flowers. I'm not sure where this plant is from. I don't believe that it was known in the Middle Ages. She also mentions using purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) which is a European wildflower. I don't know that it was used in the Middle Ages, but it seems that it could be worth pursuing. (By the way, purple loosestrife is an invasive exotic plant in U.S. wetlands and may be listed as a noxious weed in some areas.) She says to use iron on wool, using the flowering shoots in full bloom. From "Dyes from Nature" (Plants & Gardens, Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record, v.46, no.2, 1990 ; Handbook #124) 0-9453-5258-1, p.67 more information is given on using purple loosestrife - soak unmordanted wool in the dyebath overnight, reheat the next day, remove wool, add ferrous sulphate, return wool to pot and simmer for one hour. I don't know if this is a medieval dye method. I would be interested if anyone could give me more information. I my original post I alluded to natural colored black wool being a possibility. My reading suggests that black sheep were the exception and were not encouraged in the more mainstream woolen areas (such as England, as opposed to Wales or Scotland). If anyone knows of any evidence to the contrary I would appreciate learning of it. Thanks ****************************** Wendy Robertson Serials Cataloging University of Iowa (319) 335-5894 wendy-robertson@uiowa.edu ****************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 10:30:07 -0600 From: mjschues@students.wisc.edu (Melanie Jo Schuessler) Subject: Review: _Dressed for the Photographer_ Hello to all! To celebrate the holidays, I bought myself a new book, just published, which I thought I would share with you. The title is _Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans & Fashion, 1840-1900_. It's by Joan Severa, former curator of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. [Standard disclaimer: I don't work for them; they're not paying me; I just love the book! :) ] Severa divides her time frame into decades, giving about 25 pages of detailed costume information for each one (her focus is on women, though men and children are included) and then between 25 and 40 photos from each period. Her premise is that "ordinary" Americans--those not in the upper class--dressed much more fashionably than previously thought. Each photograph (daguerrotype, etc.) is accompanied by a date and text describing in detail what the subject(s) is wearing and why Severa dated it when she did. Most dates are two- or three-year ranges. She also often includes context, such as what sort of garment it is, why the subject might have chosen to be photographed in it, and when they might have worn it outside the studio. To give you a feel for the kind of commentary she provides, I'll quote the description of one of the photos. (I hope the excellent content will make up for all the bandwidth I'm consuming...) [a photo of a young woman seated--she is visible from the knees up] 1854-56 "This photograph of Clara Stebbins Lathrop of Northamption can be dated by the curved, shortened corset shape introduced in 1853. Also visible is the kind of bustle and hoop support described above. [On the same page, Severa has quotes from Harper's describing an "Adjustable Bustle."] Her crisply shaped, short-sleeved basque bodice is well supported by the small hip bustle, a contrivance often worn simply with several stiffened petticoats, with or without a hoop. Douglas and Sherwood's "New Matinee Skirt" is advertised in the 1857 Godey's (265) as a full-length skirt with springs with the "Adjustable Bustle" at top. Clara could be wearing either type of support. The dress is of silk and is a summer style. With its short flared sleeves, it is of a dressy fashion and intended for special occasions. The darted and pieced construction is flawlessly fitted over the newer-style corset, which is much more curvaceous and lenient in the bust than formerly. For the student of construction, it is possible in this view to see the extent to which the shoulder seam has been dropped to the back, enhancing the sloped-shoulder look so much in favor. It is safe to say that a skilled seamstress is responsible for this costume. The trim and accessories indicate some expense. The fluted organdie collar is an especially rare discovery. Its flutes have been "goffered" (shaped over a hot iron with rods), and the collar is longer in back. The sleeve is formed of a narrow band of bias fabric carefully matched to the plaids of the bodice at the piped shoulder seam, to which the ribbon flounce adds just the right length. The dark ribbons with their white garland-trimmed edges are only slightly gathered at the sleeve and basque and are made into flat bows down the front. Clara is wearing a matched set of jewelry, either of jet or coral, consisting of a large brooch and a fasionable pair of identical bracelets with large central medallions." It may be frustrating to see the description and not the picture, but I wanted to give a sample of the kinds of information provided. She gives more context in addition to the description when she can, as with a portrait of a woman holding a doll: "Mrs. Timothy Biggelow of Boston opted to sit in her wrapper for a record portrait after the death of her baby daughter. In perhaps no other kind of photograph would we be likely to see a photograph of a woman in this intimate garment...." Severa includes pictures of WASPs (and other WASs), African-Americans, Chinese-Americans, Native Americans, mill girls, and even some women who attended a health spa and practiced dress reform. Many of the subjects are anonymous. I find this book fascinating and useful--the detail she gives is incredible! [I must admit, however, that I am not an expert in 19th century costume, so my opinions should be taken with that in mind.] The sheer volume and scholarly approach astound me. The book is almost 600 pages long (with huge bibliography and helpful glossary and index) and is 8 1/2" by 11." It includes 272 portraits. ISBN# 0-87338-512-8 If you want to order it, call 1-800-247-6553. It's $63.25 with S&H. I heard that the printing was relatively small, so if you think you want it, you might want to order it now. If anyone wants more info, feel free to email me. Joy and peace to all. Melanie Schuessler mjschues@students.wisc.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 11:14:58 -0800 From: kondoa@ucs.orst.edu Subject: Restoration Movie I saw clips from a new historical costume movie called "Restoration" last night. It looked to be about Charles 2'ish time period (can't tell exactly in 60 seconds with scene changes whipping by...). Has anybody seen this? how are the costumes? I wonder if the success of "Dangerous Liasions" started a trend, there seem to have been a lot more big "historical" movies out since then. (Sort of like "Star Wars" reviving an interest in making science fiction films). Alison ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 15:12:54 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: CostumeCon Does anyone know in which city the CostumeCon will be in 1997? Unfortunately, I won't be able to go to the one coming up in May, but I am hoping for the year after next. Thanks. Sheryl Nance Kansas City MO Public Library p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us ------------------------------ Date: 19 Dec 95 17:41:00 GMT From: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: Black I'm not a dyer, but I have seen a dyer achieve a true black with 16th century ingredients, specifically oak galls. She was dying in an iron tun, would that make a difference? I understand it was very difficult (which was why everyone was shown the result, and involved overdying with the oak gall mixture, but not other colours. She was not using American ingredients, as they only came slowly into usage in England. I must reply, when I have time, to the long message about medieval life, because from my readings (mainly Annales school) I have gained a totally different picture of medieval life! Caroline ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 16:24:34 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: CostumeCon Alison, Thank you! I really hope that you're right about CostumeCon being in St. Louis in 1998! Since I live in Kansas City, that's only 4 hours away by car. Yes! Sheryl Kansas City MO Public Library p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 15:25:45 -0800 From: shepgibb@mcn.org Subject: DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER >Hello to all! > >To celebrate the holidays, I bought myself a new book, just published, which >I thought I would share with you. The title is _Dressed for the >Photographer: Ordinary Americans & Fashion, 1840-1900_. It's by Joan >Severa, former curator of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER will be reviewed by Fran Grimble in the Spring issue of RAGS. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 18:41:15 -0700 From: cwood@primenet.com Subject: Re: DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER >>Hello to all! >> >>To celebrate the holidays, I bought myself a new book, just published, which >>I thought I would share with you. The title is _Dressed for the >>Photographer: Ordinary Americans & Fashion, 1840-1900_. It's by Joan >>Severa, former curator of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. > >DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER will be reviewed by Fran Grimble in the Spring >issue of RAGS. > > > > I just got this book from ILL and it is FANTASTIC. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to see how people in the 19th century really looked. Now if only I could afford to own it... Ysa ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 18:49:41 -0700 From: cwood@primenet.com Subject: Re: Restoration Movie > > I saw clips from a new historical costume movie called >"Restoration" last night. It looked to be about Charles 2'ish >time period (can't tell exactly in 60 seconds with scene changes >whipping by...). Has anybody seen this? how are the costumes? > I wonder if the success of "Dangerous Liasions" started >a trend, there seem to have been a lot more big "historical" >movies out since then. (Sort of like "Star Wars" reviving an >interest in making science fiction films). > > Alison This movie is based on a historical novel by Rose Tremain that came out several years ago. As its title might suggest, it takes place during the Restoration in England (late 17th century) and concerns a doctor who becames a favourite of Charles II when he saves the lives of the King's spaniels. To show his gratitude the King marries the doctor off to his (the King's, that is) mistress with the stipulation that it is to be a marriage in name only. The doctor falls in love with his wife and Trouble Ensues. I didn't care much for the book, but apparently it is highly thought of in historical novel circles and Rose Tremain is a rather noted author. I saw the preview and it looked good, but I am not an expert in that time period and as Alison pointed out, scenes flew by pretty darn fast. It will be interesting to see what it looks like full length. There haven't been many movies set in that time frame recently--the Disney 3 Musketeers is all that comes to mind and that movie wasn't exactly about historic accuracy. Ysa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 8:18:30 From: Joe Cook Subject: Re: Restoration Movie > > > > I saw clips from a new historical costume movie called > >"Restoration" last night. It looked to be about Charles 2'ish > >time period (can't tell exactly in 60 seconds with scene changes > >whipping by...). Has anybody seen this? how are the costumes? > > I wonder if the success of "Dangerous Liasions" started > >a trend, there seem to have been a lot more big "historical" > >movies out since then. (Sort of like "Star Wars" reviving an > >interest in making science fiction films). > > > > Alison > > > This movie is based on a historical novel by Rose Tremain that came out > several years ago. As its title might suggest, it takes place during the > Restoration in England (late 17th century) and concerns a doctor who becames > a favourite of Charles II when he saves the lives of the King's spaniels. To > show his gratitude the King marries the doctor off to his (the King's, that > is) mistress with the stipulation that it is to be a marriage in name only. > The doctor falls in love with his wife and Trouble Ensues. > > I didn't care much for the book, but apparently it is highly thought of in > historical novel circles and Rose Tremain is a rather noted author. I saw > the preview and it looked good, but I am not an expert in that time period > and as Alison pointed out, scenes flew by pretty darn fast. It will be > interesting to see what it looks like full length. There haven't been many > movies set in that time frame recently--the Disney 3 Musketeers is all that > comes to mind and that movie wasn't exactly about historic accuracy. > Has anybody seen the movie "Forever Amber?" Considering that it came out BEFORE "Gone with the Wind," it was quite an impressive movie. It takes place also during the restoration of Charles II. The costuming is quite grand. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 11:28:17 +0000 (GMT) From: Dorothy Stein Subject: Re: Restoration Movie This list seems to be particularly interested in film costuming. I'm waiting for the reaction to 'Angels and Insects'(which featured among other a lot of fruit and veg motifs on clothing likely to cause salivation in the wearable list). I personally did not like the costumes, despite the considerable hype given to them, and thought those of the governess particularly inept (excessively elaborate and sometimes decolltee: governesses were supposed to dress mousily in black and brown and with high necklines). However, it was otherwise a very interesting exploration of Darwin in the mid-nineteenth century and based on an AS Byatt novella. Too bad they felt audiences might be put off by the original title: 'Morpho Eugenia'. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 12:41:45 -0800 From: Susan Fatemi Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #274 FYI -- for all you corsetry nuts, take a look a the latest issue of Vogue, which has a very nice section on couture, and a section on corsetry, featuring a fellow (and very precious he is, too) named "Pearl" who is apparently a famous corset -maker. There is an astonishing (to me, anyway) photo of him in his "waist-training" corset, 18"!!! wierd. Anyway, have a look. chacun a son gout! Jolly holidays to everyone and may your hose be filled to overflowing. Susan susanf@eerc.berkeley.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 14:03:37 -0800 (PST) From: Teresa Gallagher Subject: Re: CostumeCon Wait! I was interested in that info. Could someone post the whereabouts of the 1996 and '97 con? Teresa G. On Tue, 19 Dec 1995, SHERYL J. NANCE wrote: > Alison, > Thank you! I really hope that you're right about CostumeCon being in > St. Louis in 1998! Since I live in Kansas City, that's only 4 hours > away by car. Yes! > > > Sheryl > Kansas City MO Public Library > p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #275 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!