From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #26 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, January 31 1996 Volume 4, Number 26 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: 18th Century Sources Re: On-line patterns RE: Elizabethan edicts, etc... Re: Hairstyles Re: Australia 1788 Australia 1788 Traditions Re: Hairstyles Embroidery Re: Australia 1788 (long) Re: Traditions Re: Embroidery Re: Embroidery Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! FWD: Re: FWD: tablet-weaving ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 11:49:29 -0500 From: aquazoo@dcez.com (Edward C. Safford) Subject: 18th Century Sources Robert Wrote, >If I can't justify embroidery on it I need to know where I can get ahold >of >some linen or silk lace (as in the tape lace they used for >embellishing coats). Kathleen B. Smith, Textile Reproductions, Box 48, West Chesterfield, MA 01084, (413) 296-4437. She has cotton, silk, wool, and linen tape in many widths. She can dye it for you or you can dye it yourself. Kathleen is also a handweaver who will weave custom fabrics & trims. Her emphasis is primarily 18th century, but has useful items for 19th Century, too. The catalog is $4 or free with an order. "All sorts of the very best Goods, Materials for Needlework, Costume & Furnishing Reproductions, Vegetable Dyed & Natural fiber for Traditional Handwork" The index to the 32-page catalog includes: Buttons, Candlemaking supplies, Canvaswork supplies, Conservation materials, Costume patterns & books, Crewelwork supplies, Doll & Toymaking, Fabric, Furnishings (household linens, etc.) Knitting & Crochet, Plant dyeing (natural dye materials & books), Samplers, Thread, Tools for sewing & needlework. -Carol Kocian *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 08:22:27 -0800 (PST) From: Margaret Griffith Subject: Re: On-line patterns I realize that this is an old, cold thread but... A few months back someone was looking for actual documentation of wool aprons. If this person is still interested, they can e-mail me at peggieg@u.washington.edu, I have found a reference to a late sixteenth century welsh servant with a wool apron Meg Penrose ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 10:35:29 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: RE: Elizabethan edicts, etc... On 30 Jan 1996 09:41:25 -0500 Witt Meggan wrote: > I have a graduate student who would like information on clothing and, more >specifically, theatrical costumes from Shakespearean times. > > She is most interested in the social significance of types of dress and >the legal restrictions placed on the use of materials and colors. > > She is also researching the various guilds which existed in England, and >would like more info. on how the actors obtained and constructed their >costumes. > > Can anybody out there supply some info or suggest some resource material >which would help? Thanks, Meggan You may wish to try this web page and contact Mrs. Maureen M. Martinez, http://www.rmc.ca/~nusbache/bandes.html Ciao @}\ Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/ @}/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 14:48:56 -0500 From: Rmmendum@aol.com Subject: Re: Hairstyles This is the first time I've ever posted anything on any group so forgive me if I'm doing this incorrectly but. . . I happen to have found a book with clear illustrations of historical hairstyles entitled: Women's Headress and Hairstyles in England AD 60 to Today by Georgine De Courtis. No idea how carefully researched or authentic this work is, I'm not into hair myself but take a look if you are interested. Ruth Mendum rmmendum@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 16:03:49 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Re: Australia 1788 Kristina, Where did you read/hear that they were given prisoner clothes? I am guessing you are working on a production of "Our Country's Good". When I researched the costumes of the Botany Bay convicts I found no mention of prisoner garb, and some references to tattered remnants of their clothing. Etchings and paintings of Botany bay seem to support this. The director and I chose to outfit each convict according to their personality and who they were before being convicted. Hilary Oak ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:06:51 +1000 From: bclarke@metz.une.edu.au (Bronwyn Clarke) Subject: Australia 1788 Kristina wrote: >I need information on the English convicts that were sent to Auatralia >in 1788-1789. While I've found information on the events of the time >little has been said about what they were wearing at the time. I assume >they wore the clothes they had on in England before making the trip, but >they were given "prisoner" clothes upon arrival. Would convicts in >England have worn "prisoner" clothes? Any info would be appreciated. >Kristina Haney >Costume Designer Kristina, I've just started looking into this period as well. So, I'll tell you about a) the sources I know of, and b) my summary of what I know about the period! Fiona or Gillian or other Australians on the list may also be able to contribute. There are three main texts that look at Australian costume - they're at home of course, but I'll try and remember them correctly, and send you full details later. Cedric Flower's book has been published under different titles; the first edition I think was "Duck and Cabbage Tree"; I can't remember the title of the later edition I have, although "Clothing in Australia" rings a bell. There is also Marion Fletcher's book - called, I think, "Costume in Australia"; and "Breeches & Bustles" by Elizabeth Scandrett. All three books cover the period from 1788; Scandrett goes to 1914, Flower to late 20th century,and I think Fletcher goes to turn of the century. There is also apparently a new book recently published, which looks at clothes, but I'm not sure in what context or what period. It was mentioned in the last edition of "Textile", so I'll look it up when I'm at home. A couple of years ago, there was an article in a "Textile" (which I have at home) about a Tasmanian spinners' and weavers' group who researched and then recreated convict clothing of the Tasmanian (Van Diemen's Land) colony. However, I'm pretty sure that this would *not* be appropriate for the first few years of the colony at Sydney; Van Dieman's Land was settled later, when the British and colonial governments had the whole convict system rather better organised. Info about clothes in the very first years is quite scarce! Remember, it was a brand new colony without any of the comforts of home, and thousands of miles from any other "civilisation"; the first couple of years was purely focussed on surviving, so there was little art and literature other than official records and some personal journals. Clothes seem to have been rather overlooked by the British government of the day; apparently, among the provisions of the First Fleet, there were *no* sewing needles, and only a couple of reels of sewing thread. Not good planning for a brand new settlement, where the only other people around are Aboriginals living traditional lifestyles. Governor Phillip apparently pleaded for appropriate clothing for the convicts, but little was available when the First Fleet left England; when the Second Fleet arrived, they brought some rough, poor quality linen clothes that literally lasted only a few weeks. Some clothes were issued to the convicts, I think before sailing; I recall that it was trousers and jackets for the men, and petticoats and jackets (and caps?) for the women. I don't think there was any convict "uniform" as such at that time, and most convicts certainly brought their own clothes; there are references to at least one convict woman selling spare clothes for exhorbitant prices, such was the shortage of clothes. There are a few illustrations in some of the books, although not a great many of the first few years. I might be able to scan them and e-mail them, if you can't get hold of them otherwise (I guess South Dakota Uni won't have heaps of Australian costume books in their library). I'll try to remember to look up these books tonight when I'm home. Let me know if there is any other info you need. Regards, Bronwyn Bronwyn Clarke, Assistant General Staff Development Officer, Personnel Services, University of New England, ARMIDALE NSW 2351, AUSTRALIA email: bclarke@metz.une.edu.au Phone: (067) 733431 Fax (067) 733721 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 20:54:34 -0500 From: SyRilla@aol.com Subject: Traditions Hello wise ones, I am sorry if this is not a correct question, but I thought that someone in this wealth of knowledge could help. I am trying to find the meanings of the tradition that are in weddings. Anything from what the flowers mean to why they do something the way that they do. Thank you. Kimberly SyRilla@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 21:39:32 -0500 From: NeaDods@aol.com Subject: Re: Hairstyles Amanda, I've also been looking for period descriptions of various hairstyles, but I CAN give you a great reference for modern creations - Hair, A Book of Braiding and Styles by Anne Akers Johnson. ISBN 1-57054-018-7 This is available from Klutz Press (yeah, the juggling people) and is an adult version of their "Braids & Bows" book for kids. It includes superb directions for French Twists, Simple & Braided Chignons, several styles of buns, and some period-looking styles including one called The Gibson Tuck. I highly recommend it for both period reenactors and women with hair that brushes their shoulders or longer. It covers the whole range from quick'n'easy to incredibly elaborate. The usual assurances that Klutz isn't paying me to say this... Nea neadods@aol.com If what you embrace becomes your destiny, point me towards Pierce Brosnan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 23:52:14 -0500 From: sunfire@muskoka.com (Stephen & Krista Fraser) Subject: Embroidery Hi! Could someone recommend a good book that would teach me proper embroidery techniques to do 12th C. England type designs (if in fact it is any different from regular embroidering)? Also, is crewel work the same as embroidery or not? Confused Again, Krista sunfire@muskoka.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 14:59:37 +1000 (EST) From: Carolyn Fraser Subject: Re: Australia 1788 (long) Kristina, I don't know what your time constraints are, but if you can get ahold of Margaret Maynard's " Fashioned From Penury, Dress as cultural practice in colonial Australia", published by Cambridge University Press 1994, you'll find a discussion of the information you require. According to Maynard, although the British government supplied and administered the dress of most of the inhabitants of the settlement throughout the transportation period, the supply was so inadequate and haphazard that it remained difficult to distinguish convicts as a distinct group. Apparently some convicts confined to barracks did wear uniforms but those assigned to settlers didn't and many never received regular issues of dress. So, while many governers were keen to impose uniform dress for convicts to distinguish them from the rest of the settlement, the government was unable to manage and regulate the issue of clothing. Maynard says, "In the first years of settlement convicts and free working-class inhabitants all wore very similar kinds of clothes. The First Fleet convicts were issued with a two-year supply of government clothing, consisting of basic, readymade slops. The term slops comes from the Dutch word 'slabbe' for seamen's wide breeches, but by this time it meant coarse, loose-fitting readymade dress. Convict slops, uniformly similar in appearance, probably resembled the drab prison clothing worn at the time in some English county prisons but were in effect standard working-class clothes. Convict men were issued with short jackets, check frocks, trousers, check shirts and tall crowned hats, and the women jackets, petticoats (skirts), kerchiefs and hats." p.11 You might also look at "A Form of Humiliation: Early Transportation Uniforms in Australia" Costume (21) 1987, pp.57-66, by the same author. Carolyn Fraser Brisbane, Australia ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 23:09:58 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: Re: Traditions I have a wedding planning book and it has all sorts of explanations about traditions in it. Try going to a book store and thumbing through various wedding books...really just looking in the index or table of contents should tell you if there is any information about traditions. Lissa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 01:06:20 -0800 (PST) From: Heather Rose Jones Subject: Re: Embroidery On Tue, 30 Jan 1996, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > Could someone recommend a good book that would teach me proper embroidery > techniques to do 12th C. England type designs (if in fact it is any > different from regular embroidering)? The major features of English embroidery of this period are the use of stem and split stitch in silk and of both topside and underside couching of metallic threads. A good book on the general subject is Warner's "Embroidery - A History", although the best diagrams of how to do the stitches I've seen are in a French book, "Broderies d'Ornements Liturgiques XIIIe-XIVe s." by Odile Brel-Bordaz. If you are trying to reproduce the style of 12th century English embroidery, then a consideration as important as that of materials and techniques is that of pattern design. The particular effects used in faces, hair, and the shading of garments are characteristic and best learned by studying and copying the originals. > Also, is crewel work the same as embroidery or not? Crewel work is a type of embroidery, but is not synonymous with the word. Heather Rose Jones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 05:56:52 -0500 (EST) From: Diana Wigham Subject: Re: Embroidery Dear Krista, You might check out the book (if you can find it) _Crrewel Embroidery_, with the last name of the author being Edwards. It covers the history of English embroidery, covering the famous Opus Anglicanum period. Good luck. Diana Wigham dwigham@mhc.mtholyoke.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 05:39:13 -0700 (PDT) From: "Peter J. McDonough" Subject: Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! > I wish you luck with the project and hope that all goes well enough that you > will continue to study and learn. I also hope you will give some > consideration to taking your sewing education a little more slowly and look > for some really basic training in each of the mentioned above. The > historical reproduction garment is a truly fascinating journey for those > interested in clothing arts. I have worked on just such garments for 20 > years now and have never found it boring. Hi M. L. Baker! You are right, I decided last night to take some sewing classes and drop the course for now, and take it next time, when I know the basics of sewing. I have the lesson schedule from the sewing store where we got the machine. My first class is this Saturday. I felt uneasy when the teacher said that I could get through this course by researching, designing, etc. a vest, and learning to sew in nine classes. That's why I came here to get tips and opinions to get a jump start on this class. The first night we went to the library to do research and last night we started to draw a figure, and so now there are 7 lessons left. The _____pace_____ looks like it is designed for the seamstresses in this class, with lots of experience on the machine, whereas I have about 20 minutes at the most. All that I learned here is not lost because I'll save all these good ideas I've picked up here, and use them the next time I take, and finish the course now that I know what to expect, and plan to get there and have fun while doing it. Thanks to all you sewers who gave me tips, etc. !!!!! I'll be back! Pete ------------------------------ Date: 31 Jan 96 13:02:00 GMT From: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: FWD: Re: FWD: tablet-weaving I sent this question to the Kentwell list I am a member of, and Alan Deacon replied - he has done quite a lot of research on weaving, and you might find this of interest. Caroline - -------------------------------- ATTACHMENT -------------------------------- I N T E R O F F I C E M E M O R A N D U M Created: Sent: From: Alan Deacon Alan Deacon @RELAY Dept: None Tel No: TO: stephen_davis@pch.gc.ca ( stephen_davis@pch.gc.ca@RELAY ) CC: Yeldham Mrs C S ( YELDHAM CS@A1@UKA ) Subject: Re: FWD: tablet-weaving >I know Kentwell has some people doing this weaving, but can't remember the >specifics - any ideas anyone? > >Caroline > >-------------------------------- ATTACHMENT -------------------------------- > > I N T E R O F F I C E M E M O R A N D U M > > Created: > Sent: > From: stephen_davis@pch.gc.ca > stephen_davis@pch.gc.ca@RELAY > Dept: None > Tel No: > >TO: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com ( h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com@RELAY ) > >Subject: tablet-weaving > > I recently identified wood fragments from a 16th-century > archaeological site as formerly part of a rigid heddle for > tablet-weaving narrow tapes. I think there is confusion in terms here. Unless I've gone batty (a distinct possibility) tablet weaving refers to weaving/braiding achieved by using square pieces of card/horn/bone with holes at each corner. Different colour warp threads go through the holes, and by twisting the cards different patterns are produced. A bit shaky, but it is something like that. A rigid heddle is used on a tape loom. The heddle makes the shed and the weft goes back and forth as on a normal loom. An example of such a heddle was found on the Mary Rose (1545?) and is on exhibit there. It was used to make broad tapes (probably canvas) for use about the ship (probably). http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html I can't get through at the moment to check it out, but that URL used to work. > Is anyone familiar with this type of weaving? Can you direct me to > sources for comparative study. I am most interested in finding > illustrations of tablet-weaving dating pre-1560. Finally, are any of > you familiar with listservs which specifically focus on looms, > weaving, and related material culture? I think you get quite different patterns from the two types of weaving (heddle/tablet). The heddle kind is like an ordinary loom, and is similar to the inkle loom. The easiest patterns are to have the warp of one colour and the Weft of another, and vary the tape from being warp faced to weft faced. This was often used for producing writing (black letter) on tapes. There are a number of German/Swiss examples of these. Tablet tapes I think are more related to finger braids in the kind of patterns they produce. > Thank you. > >Message header: > >Return-Path: >Received: from mailhub.ggr.co.uk [147.184.146.69] by UKSYSA.ggr.co.uk ; 26 Jan 96 19:52:14 UT >Received: from gate.ggr.co.uk (gate.ggr.co.uk) by mailhub.ggr.co.uk; Fri, 26 Jan 1996 19:46:53 GMT >Received: from sgi.sgi.com (SGI.COM [192.48.153.1]) by gate.ggr.co.uk; Fri, 26 Jan 1996 19:50:01 GMT >Received: from sgihub.corp.sgi.com by sgi.sgi.com via ESMTP (950405.SGI.8.6.12/910110.SGI) > id LAA03523; Fri, 26 Jan 1996 11:50:03 -0800 >Received: from lunch.engr.sgi.com by sgihub.corp.sgi.com via ESMTP (950511.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH526/911001.SGI) > id KAA20590; Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:15:25 -0800 >Received: by lunch.engr.sgi.com (951211.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH1042/951211.SGI.AUTO) > id KAA21930; Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:14:21 -0800 >Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 13:06:27 EST >From: "Stephen Davis" >Encoding: 11 Text >Message-Id: <9600268226.AA822689563@smtp2.pch.gc.ca> >To: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com >Subject: tablet-weaving >Sender: owner-h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com >Precedence: bulk Alan Deacon (User Services) Information Systems Division Email: a.deacon@ucl.ac.uk University College London Tel: +44 0171-380 7359 Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT Fax: +44 0171-388 5406 Message header: Return-Path: Received: from mailhub.ggr.co.uk [147.184.146.69] by UKSYSA.ggr.co.uk ; 31 Jan 96 11:21:09 UT Received: from gate.ggr.co.uk (gate.ggr.co.uk) by mailhub.ggr.co.uk; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:16:00 GMT Received: from mail-e.bcc.ac.uk (mail-e.bcc.ac.uk [144.82.100.25]) by gate.ggr.co.uk; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:19:11 GMT Received: from link-1.ts.bcc.ac.uk by mail-e.bcc.ac.uk with SMTP (PP); Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:20:27 +0000 Message-Id: <140154.9601311119@link-1.ts.bcc.ac.uk> To: stephen_davis@pch.gc.ca Cc: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: Re: FWD: tablet-weaving In-Reply-To: (Your message of 29 Jan 1996 09:01:00 GMT.) <17266.199601290913@mailhub.ggr.co.uk> Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:19:48 +0000 From: Alan Deacon ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #26 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!