From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #87 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Friday, April 5 1996 Volume 4, Number 87 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: waists Re: Waists Re: Waists Book for sale HISTORIC: book, patterns Scottish costume? Lady's Gallery magazine Re: Lady's Gallery magazine Re: Lady's Gallery Magazine More costume books Egyptian costuming-HELP! Re: Egyptian costuming-HELP! Re: Waists Re: Lady's Gallery Magazine Re: Waist sizes Renaissance Pattern APPAREL DESIGN CAD Re: APPAREL DESIGN CAD Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 17:04:48 CST From: bednarek@tidalwave.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 ~BHOSVWZ#097) Subject: waists There is definate fact to this. I have seen many texts indicating that corsets can be an asset in desired weight loss. Mainly by applying pressure to the stomack so it cannot get as full as it used to. Suposedly the main draw back is that many wearer go to more frequent eating sessions and still retain the same total intake. In message <199603281747.KAA26891@nz1.netzone.com> Sharon Bolton writes: > > >Some ethnic groups tend to be heavier built and the extra poundage sure can > >keep out the cold. These gowns gave me encouragement since I haven't had > >an 18" waist since childhood. > > > An 18" waist? I'd be happy if I had an 18" THIGH! > Perhaps that's an evolutionary step towards getting an 18" waist? o-) Apart from Victorian gents being able to encircle a girl's waist with their outstretched hands, another obvious advantage (?!!) of the smaller waist sizes was that their ladyfolk didn't -- couldn't -- eat so much... < Paul > This might be related... A friend of mine, has of late, become interested in late 1800's history. She says that during that time it was considered un-lady-like to eat a lot in public. I guess squishing all of your 'inards' into some other dimension helped to keep your appetite in check. :) Heather kschenk@fast.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 19:23:11 -0500 From: HMHousman@aol.com Subject: Re: Waists >A friend of mine, has of late, become interested in late 1800's >history. She says that during that time it was considered >un-lady-like to eat a lot in public. I guess squishing all of your >'inards' into some other dimension helped to keep your appetite in >check. :) Anyone who has tried eating in a corset has learned you _don't_ eat alot. There's not room in there for you and your food!! I once tried to walk fast up a hill (a little hill mind you) and drink a cup of coffee at the same time - sound simple. Wrong. I almost choked on the coffee and fell down the hill! Life in corsets (and hoops, and even long skirts) is certainly different then what we have become accustom to.... I have a wonderful Ladies' Companion Book from the mid 1800's which was my great-great-great grandmother's. Sadly though, the second have of the book is missing, but the section I have has some delightful instruction on how to be a proper lady. Eating small dainty portions was essential behavior for a true lady. Enjoy your dinner, ladies (and gentlemen)! Heather Housman ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 19:02:46 PST From: Kat@grendal.rain.com (June Russell) Subject: Re: Waists :Anyone who has tried eating in a corset has learned you _don't_ eat alot. : There's not room in there for you and your food!! This really depends on the fit and style of your corset. Both my 18th C and my 16th corsets don't keep me from eating or moving. I've been known to do forward rolls in them when people make comments about how you can't move in them. If it fits well, there isn't a problem. That may not apply to some of the Victorian corsets which are meant to be overlaced (or laced too tightly, put another way). Kat Kat ( June Russell ) pacifier.com!grendal!kat kat@grendal.rain.com Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 21:27:45 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Book for sale I just received for review a book I already own. It is _The Wearing of Costume: The Changing Techniques of Clothes and How to Move in Them from Roman Britain to the Second World War_. By Ruth M. Green; reprinted in 1995 by Drama Publishers from the 1966 edition. Paperback; 171 pages; 102 line drawings, mostly redrawn from originals. Publisher's price $17.95. I'll sell it for $12 plus shipping if shipped. Fran Grimble aterry@teknowledge.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 07:35:25 -0800 From: ccary@tiara.engr.sgi.com (Christina Cary) Subject: HISTORIC: book, patterns Hi Historic Costume List, Yesterday I got my book order from Edward Hamilton Books: Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815. It's a book produced by the Kyoto Costume Institute (or something like that...). They have a fabulous collection of French garments from the Revolutionary period, and this exhibit catalog is an excellent collection of photos of the garments and essays on various topics, written by professors and other notables. It is generally available for $65 (at the recent San Francisco Vintage Fashion Expo, for example), but Edward Hamilton has it for $45.50. I also saw it for $45 at a local used book reseller. The photos are full color and include both full-length and detail shots of the embroidery, construction, corsets, etc. I highly recommend this book. One odd thing: the plastic female mannequins that the gowns are displayed on have GIGANTIC bosoms. Really, really BIG. Even considering that the corsets of the time may have pushed the bust up, these are just way, way out of proportion. They all look like Jayne Mansfield. I wondered if the mannequins were made in Japan by someone who had that impression of Western bodies, or if many of the gowns were made for the same woman who was actually built that way, so the mannequin was made to mimic her figure... Anyway, it was very odd. Christina - -- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- First Name: Christina Last Name: Cary Editor, Technical Publications ______________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 08:35:13 -0800 From: "Perry Lewis" Subject: Scottish costume? Trying to make a dress that could have been worn by Lady Macbeth in Shakespeare's Macbeth. Setting of play is in Scotland around 1050 A.D. I need help as to what color would be worn by nobility class or a queen. Also, need the type of fabric that was available in that time period--cotton, linen?? Any help would be appreciated. My daughter (with mom's help) is trying to make such a dress for a senior English project. I think they have a pattern but are unsure about color and fabric. We have looked in various costume books but can't find anything in that time period. Perry Lewis Alma, AR ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 09:13:29 -0800 From: Darrell Beckham <104170.2675@compuserve.com> Subject: Lady's Gallery magazine Hi, I would like to know if anyone has ever heard of the Lady's Gallery magazine and knows the address or phone number for subscription? It is a magazine about vintage clothing and period costumes. I believe they may be based in Ohio, possibly Cleveland. Thanks. Darrell B. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 13:58:53 -0500 From: TULLYT@aol.com Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery magazine The address for "The Lady's Gallery" is P.O.Box 40443, Bay Village, Ohio 44140. You all will love it! Lots of vintage sources plus great articles on the textile arts and costuming. Invaluable resource. Telephone for faster service is 216-871-4479. It's $23.95 for 6 issues. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 11:26:42 -0800 From: "David M. Mitchell" Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery Magazine Hi all, I'm new to the list and this is my first submission. I am most interested in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, and work off my fiance's account. In answer to Darrell's question, I have seen the magazine--after receiving a couple promotional brochures, I scrounged up the money to buy a sample copy. It seemed interesting, although hard to judge on the basis of one copy. I need to dig around to find the subscription info, as I lent my copy to someone who hasn't returned it yet. I'll post it as soon as I find it. Cheryl Blachuta ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 17:35:21 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: More costume books I promised I'd list some book citations on Russian and Empress Elisabeth's clothes. Franz Xaver Winterhalter and the Courts of Europe, 1830-70, by Richard Ormond and Carol Blackett-Ord. London: National Portrait Gallery, 1987. This is an exhibition catalog and has tons of gorgeous portraits of women in miles of tulle. Elisabeth, Bilder einer Kaiserin=Portrait of an Empress, by Brigitte Hamann. Vienna, Munich: Amalthea Verlag, 1986. ISBN= 3-85002-156-4 Mostly pictures, parallel text in German and English. This is a must for Elisabeth fans. Includes photos, garments, portraits, picture of her death mask, etc. The Imperial Style: Fashions of the Hapsburg Era. New York: Rizzoli distributing for the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Exhibition catalog. Not that many pictures in it but it does have a chapter on Elisabeth. I went to the exhibit years ago and it was very nice, I'm not sure why they didn't put all the costumes in the catalog. The Art of Costume in Russia, 18th to early 20th century: The Hermitage. Leningrad: Aurora Art Publishers, 1983. The 1983 edition is in English, the 1979 edition is in Russian only. This book is vastly superior to Jacqueline Onassis' "In the Russian Style." Onassis' covers decorative arts and more than just costume. "Art of Costume" has full page color pictures of very well preserved unusual gowns and men's clothing too. Most gowns are in the Western styles (not Russian) whereas Onassis' has more ethnic clothing represented. The paper is even decent which is unusual for books produced in the Soviet Union at the time. Problem is that not that many people have copies. Try ILL? I am a customer of a company that specializes in exhibition catalogs (I get no kickback). They work with individuals and will send book lists that include costume/jewelry/textiles titles. Warning: most exhibition catalogs are expensive: $30-$100 or more. Worldwide Books 1001 West Seneca Street Ithaca, NY 14850 I own the above books and can attest to how nice they are but can't help with availability. Marsha J. Hamilton Head, Monograph Acquisition Division.....phone: (614) 292-6314 The Ohio State University Libraries........fax: (614) 292-2015 1858 Neil Avenue Mall...................e-mail: hamilton.8@osu.edu Columbus, OH 43210-1286 USA ................ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 18:38:01 -0500 From: Kyle1115@aol.com Subject: Egyptian costuming-HELP! Hi! We are trying to put together a biblical production combining school (elementary) and scouts, etc. We need some ideas on putting together REALLY good professional looking costumes for some Ancient Egyptian characters. One of the main characters woudl be the Pharoah's son. I have read through many books on this, but most have mostly "average" looking costumes. We need something that looks more professional. Any help in this will be MUCH appreciated! Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 19:14:23 -0600 (CST) From: The Espresso Pegasus! Subject: Re: Egyptian costuming-HELP! Hello, AS with any early period stuff, it is all in the trimmings... Take some canvas and epoxy and glitter, wo simulate gold, trim everything, use lighting on stage to your best advantage.. grab as many plastic rhintones as possible, and sew them on... use lots of chiffon for the drappy pieces of egypt. (remember to that the kids wear white shorts and tanks (or leggings and unitards) under all the chiffon, because of the see-through-ness of it all.. and most parents don't like seeing half- naked children. But take the motifs.. (available in any king tut book) and enlarge them onto collars, and loin clothish pieces. And embellish, Embellis, Embellish! stage has a right to be over acentuated... ALSo... make -up for the kids... remember a Dark foundation for faces and any visible bits of skin (powdered, or it will shine, and blind the audience) Red dots on either side of the nose at eye leve, so that they do not appear cross-eyed... and on both girls and boys... LOTS of eye make-up... lots of black eye-liner... the egyptians over did it in real life.. and you need those in the audience to see that. Don't forget the backdrops!... if you have acess to them.. make them, and make them good! The backdrop makes up a great portion of the visual imagrey. if none are available, consider black ladders drapped with lots of chiffon, and upon them sitting some gold spray-painted urns. and though minimal, consider plquard backpieces... these are regular sheets od plywood, put in a two-by-four stand, and painted to fit the part. it is a cheap and modern way to cover more space without a full curtain backdrop. These can be painted with scenes from egypt, ro simply a few egyptian motifs.. Ankh, Ra, heiroglyphs.... and these should be made as big, if not bigger, than the plywood sheet... And these are reversable for quick scene changes. Suspend things from the cieling. Are there any night scenes?... hang christmas lights (white only) this can be done from a broom stick or curtain pole, andone row of lights is tied to the pole, then looped around and using string, tie in more rows of lights, until you have a 'netting' (watch that it downsn't tangle) to hang to form a night sky. I do hope this helps. and I wish the best of luck on your preformance.. let me know how it goes. Sarahj ______________________.oO*Oo._______________________ You Can Fret Me, But You Cannot Play Upon Me--Hamlet ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 18:59:14 -0800 From: drkangel@sirius.com (Laura Nunemaker) Subject: Re: Waists Once I wore a corset and 5 in. heels while drinking Pernot. I could not move around by myself! FULL MOON The glow and beauty of the stars are nothing near the splendid moon when in her roundness she burns silver about the world. SAPPHO ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 21:36:26 -0800 From: "R.L. Shep" Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery Magazine David M. Mitchell wrote: > > Hi all, I'm new to the list and this is my first submission. I am most > interested in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, and work off my > fiance's account. > > In answer to Darrell's question, I have seen the magazine--after > receiving a couple promotional brochures, I scrounged up the money to > buy a sample copy. It seemed interesting, although hard to judge on the > basis of one copy. I need to dig around to find the subscription info, > as I lent my copy to someone who hasn't returned it yet. I'll post it > as soon as I find it. > > Cheryl Blachuta Lady's Gallery. P.O. Box 1761. INDEPENDENCE, MO 64055. bi-monthly. $23.95/year. This magazine is reviewed by Fran Grimble in the Spring issue of RAGS. R.L. Shep ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 01:11:28 -0500 From: BoboGddss@aol.com Subject: Re: Waist sizes i truly don't know what your jest was--i just have too much email, however, let me in on the joke, i could use a big laugh ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 96 10:01 EST From: TammyDejong Subject: Renaissance Pattern Hi there! Can anyone suggest a good renaissance vest pattern to go over a satin wedding gown? Also, I'm looking for a tuxedo w/tails pattern. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Tammy>mimmy19@mail.alliance.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Apr 96 08:56:14 PST From: michael.di.matteo@autodesk.com Subject: APPAREL DESIGN CAD Innovative technologies has a new cad program called ApparelCAD. (garment illustrations, pattern making, drafting, grading,marker making and surface design. call 1-800-964-6432 ext. Q429 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 11:34:42 -0600 (CST) From: Robin Findlay Subject: Re: APPAREL DESIGN CAD Has anybody used it?? how much is it? Best Wishes Robin ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Walter Robin Findlay Phone: 816-271-4452 Associate Professor of Theatre E-mail:findlay@griffon.mwsc.edu Missouri Western State College Fax: 816-232-0978 4525 Downs Drive Voice Mail: 816-387-3117 St. Joseph, Mo. 64507 is that all there is........ peggy lee - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 5 Apr 1996 michael.di.matteo@autodesk.com wrote: > Innovative technologies has a new cad program called ApparelCAD. > (garment illustrations, pattern making, drafting, grading,marker > making and surface design. > call 1-800-964-6432 ext. Q429 > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 13:10:27 -0500 From: Kevin Richard-Morrow Subject: Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns At 07:35 AM 4/4/96 -0800, you wrote: >Yesterday I got my book order from Edward Hamilton Books: Revolution in >Fashion, 1715-1815. It's a book produced by the Kyoto Costume Institute (or >something like that...). >............, but Edward Hamilton has it >for $45.50. Is there a a phone number for Edward Hamilton so I may call up and flex my VISA card befor it heats up so much it burns a hole in my pocket? Kevin Richard-Morrow ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #87 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!