From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #95 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Friday, April 19 1996 Volume 4, Number 95 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Thank-You for Veil Info Re: circlets re 18th century capes re: Cape Patterns Wanted SCA Fabric company in Great Britain? Wool for Cloaks Re: Fabric company in Great Britain? Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? 17th Cent color names Re: Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? Index for various lists Thank you for Zippers Re: Index for various lists Re: McClintock book Re: Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? Trojan Gold? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 00:32:23 -0500 From: Ruth Cooper Subject: Thank-You for Veil Info Thanks to everyone who responded to my question on keeping my floor length veil on. I now have several techniques to try with future veils also. You were a big help and I look forward to having a wonderful variety of veils in my wardrobe and know they will stay put now. Also thank-you for the fan info. I also noted a book on fans in my new Alteryears catalog, so I'll be able to have a reference at my fingertips. Cheerfully Costuming, Ruth Cooper Kassia MacWilliams, SCA persona ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 08:12:39 -0400 From: Ngelina@aol.com Subject: Re: circlets >What are the sumptuary laws on circlet size in the various sca groups? As Keegan said, it varies widely from kingdom to kingdom. (And the further you are from the kingdom in question, the wilder the stories seem to be.) The only across-the-board rules I know of are strawberry leaves for Ducal coronets and embattled edges for comital coronets. In Caid, the good taste rule of thumb is, Don't wear anything that would cause you to be mistaken for something you're not. Because we have crescents on the kingdom arms, lots of Caidan Royal peers incorporate crescents in their coronets. Landed Baronial coronets tend to include baronial symbols. There are not a lot of non-Royal peerage coronets; they tend toward symbols of the peerage in question and/or elements of the owner's arms. Anything seems to go for court baronial coronets. _Anybody_ can wear a simple metal circlet. >How do you keep a veil on with one during a wind Storm? In addition to the other suggestions, you might try making a pin curl on the crown of your head and holding it in place with two bobby pins crossed in an X. You can pin through that for more security. Karen Allen/Mistress Angelina Nicollette de Beaumont ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 21:39:17 -0600 From: Stephen & Roxanne Coslett Subject: re 18th century capes You might want to contact AlterYears, ph# (818) 585-2994 . They are in California and sell period patterns, books and and supplies. Their hours are: Tues.-Fri 10 am to 5:30 pm. Pacific time. I don't work for them, they are just a good source I know of. Hope they can help you. Regards Roxannne ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:55:40 -0600 (MDT) From: gottfred@agt.net (Jeff Gottfred) Subject: re: Cape Patterns Wanted Donna Shjarback wrote: >I am looking for a pattern for an 18th Century (Full Length) Women's >cape. Additionally I need a pattern for a Man's 18th Century Innkeeper outfit. Here are some sources for ladies' 18th century cloak patterns. They are good sources for men's clothing of the same period. Good suppliers to try are G. Gedney Godwin and Jas. Townsend. (This info comes from Northwest Journal, a publication for reenactors of the Canadian fur trade of 1774-1821.) Kannik's Korner--Woman's Short Cloak, Second Half of the 18th Century Kannik's Korner available from James Burnley (Mercer), Smoke & Fire, Historical Markers Mill Farm Period Patterns--Woman's Cloak (18th Century) Sharon Ann Burston, The Mill Road, Thornton PA 19373 (Also available thru G. Gedney Godwin) Pegee of Williamsburg--Ladies' Cloak (c. 1776) Pegee of Williamsburg available through : G. Gedney Godwin (the Sutler of Mt. Misery), O-Y-O Trade Company, Coureur de Bois Trading Post Period Impressions Patterns--1770 Cloak with Hood (mid-calf length; don't know if it's man's, woman's, or both) Period Impressions Patterns available from O-Y-O Trade Company, Smoke & Fire North, Coureur de Bois Trading Post, Jas.Townsend & Son, Bradley Company of the Fox Rocking Horse Farm--Woman's Cape (with optional hood) (late 18th or early 19th century, if I remember right) Rocking Horse Farm available from O-Y-O Trade Company, Bradley Company of the Fox, Coureur de Bois Trading Post, Historical Markers Addresses of Mail Order Pattern Suppliers BRADLEY COMPANY OF THE FOX 4330 N. State Rd. 110, Oshkosh, WI 54904 Phone or fax (414) 233-5332 COUREUR DE BOIS TRADING POST 3620 Hooker Road, Pinckney, MI 48169 Ph. (313) 878-9337, fax (313) 878-4969 G. GEDNEY GODWIN, the Sutler of Mount Misery Box 100, Valley Forge, PA 19481 Ph. (610) 783-0670, fax (610) 783-6083 HISTORICAL MARKERS LTD. 1221 S.E. 11th Street, Lee's Summit, MO 64081 (816) 525-4826 JAMES BURNLEY, Mercer 319 Oaktree Road, Williamsburg, VA 23188 Ph. (804) 253-1644 JAS. TOWNSEND & SON, INC. 133 North First Street, P.O. Box 415, Pierceton, IN 46562 Ph. (219) 594-5852, fax (219) 594-5580 SMOKE & FIRE CO. P.O. Box 166 Grand Rapids, OH 43522 1-800-SMOKE-FI O-Y-O TRADE COMPANY 3614 Lewis Road, Xenia, OH 45385 Ph. (513) 376 2673 Good luck! - --Angela Gottfred Chief Clerk, Northwest Brigade Club Northwest Journal Online: http://www.agt.net/public/gottfred/nwj.html gottfred@agt.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 12:14:09 +0000 From: "Leslie Helms" Subject: SCA Sorry all--this is off-topic, but it's short! Could the person who is moving to An Tir soon please write to me again? I've lost your address. I am from Glymm Mere in An Tir and would like to talk to you. Also, anyone coming to the 30-year gathering and wanting info about this area is welcome to write. Back to costumes... Thanks Leslie leslieh@canfield.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 9:21:42 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: Fabric company in Great Britain? This question came across one of my library-related mailing lists & I thought that someone on h-costume might have the answer. If someone knows, I'll pass the answer along to the person who asked. Thanks. >One of our patrons wants a phone number and address for McKown >or McKoun Fabrics in Great Britain. She is not sure what the >exact name of the company is. The company makes Jane Austin >fabrics and/or patterns. We have checked all of the sources >that we can think of with no success. We would appreciate any >leads on the matter. Thanks in advance for your help. > Jane Kosa, Reference Librarian Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 12:32:18 EDT From: Laura Arnette Subject: Wool for Cloaks After all the talk about cloak patterns, how about some information about where to get cloak wool. I need something medium to coat weight (to REALLY keep the cold out) that can be lined. Also, I need to get large quantities. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Laura Arnette larnette@leo.vsla.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 10:43:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Agnes Gawne Subject: Re: Fabric company in Great Britain? After checking at my local fabric store (Nancy's Sewing Basket) I have confirmed that the name of the company is MAKOWER from Great Britain. They are reprinting cottons in fabric patterns found in a quilt attributed to Jane Austen. I have seen some of the patterns and they are quite interesting. One has distinct Palm Trees on it! They are definitely worth looking for. If you happen to have a copy of Jane Austen's Town and Country Style there is a photograph of the quilt towards the middle of the book. Nancy's Sewing Basket is getting them from a local distributor called APTEX - their phone number is 206-575-0565.... perhaps they would disclose their source. I hope this helps. Agnes On Thu, 18 Apr 1996, SHERYL J. NANCE wrote: > This question came across one of my library-related mailing lists > > >One of our patrons wants a phone number and address for McKown > >or McKoun Fabrics in Great Britain. She is not sure what the > >exact name of the company is. The company makes Jane Austin > >fabrics and/or patterns. We have checked all of the sources > >that we can think of with no success. We would appreciate any > >leads on the matter. Thanks in advance for your help. > > Jane Kosa, Reference Librarian > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 21:36:47 -0500 From: corbie@radix.net (Corbie) Subject: Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? Thanks to everyone here for all the advice about the Mairead Dunleavy book! Now, I just need to find out where to get that McClintock book (Old Irish and Highland Dress). Anybody? Now, I need a piece of advice: I'm going to two events, one this weekend and one the next weekend, and I've been out of the SCA for a LONG time (10+ yrs, I guess), so my garb badly needs updating. I have plenty of coarse clothing, but really want something a bit nicer, so I bought some off-white linen and red silk-like material (it's rayon, pretending to be sand-washed silk, since I busted my budget for the linen). The linen is going to be the leine or under-dress, of course, and the red material will be the over-dress (Dunleavy calls them ionars, I believe). My persona would be located in the North-western part of Scotland in the 1200s, which at that time were a mixture of Gaelic and Viking culture. The Gall-Gaedhil were a seafaring folk, too, so they would be conversant with other cultures and have access to lots of different things, such as silk... So my question is: Would my leine and ionar have fitted/shaped arm holes and sleeves, or would it be a basic t-tunic? I'm inclined to use a shaped sleeve, if only so the costume can be more versatile. Advice, please! Cheers, Corbie ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 00:15:56 -0500 (EST) From: LACONSTANCE@delphi.com Subject: 17th Cent color names I cherish my copy of the Methuen Handbook of Color by A. Kornerup & J.H. Wanscher, first published in Denmark. Mine is the 3rd edition, in English, revised by Don Pavey and published by Eyre Methuen of London. This is both a color notation system and a color dictionary. There is an excellent discussion of how color names developed, and there is an alphabetical list of color names with references and dates (!), sort of like the color equivalent of the word usages in the Oxford English Dictionary. And, all the color names are tied to the color chips in the notation system. There's too much info to quote here, but the book is well worth a look if your library can get it for you. Constance La Lena laconstance@delphi.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 00:44:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Mary Larose Subject: Re: Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? > > My persona would be located in the North-western part of Scotland in the > 1200s, which at that time were a mixture of Gaelic and Viking culture. The > Gall-Gaedhil were a seafaring folk, too, so they would be conversant with > other cultures and have access to lots of different things, such as silk... > I'm not really familiar with the terms your using but the reference I have for the find in Herjolfsnes, Greenland has extant finds of dresses for the early 1200's. The find falls into the same type of category as what you are talking about. The pictures I have do show them to look like they have some sort of inset sleeves. These are the dresses that have several gores in front, back and sides. The books I have with good pictures are A History of Costume by Carl Kohler (pg. 158) and the Medeival Finds in London - Textiles and Clothing book (pg 180). Maybe you can find one of these books at your library...I'm sure you can find them in other books too as it is quite a famous excavation. I hope that helps. regards Mary > > So my question is: > Would my leine and ionar have fitted/shaped arm holes and sleeves, or would > it be a basic t-tunic? I'm inclined to use a shaped sleeve, if only so the > costume can be more versatile. > > Advice, please! > > Cheers, > Corbie > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 96 08:26 EDT From: TammyDejong Subject: Index for various lists Hello there, I'm looking for someone who has an index of the various lists that are available. Thanks in advance. Tammy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 08:37:46 -0400 From: Ladnier@aol.com Subject: Thank you for Zippers Thank you to all the people who responded to the zipper questions. Penny Ladnier Virginia Commonwealth University ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:00:50 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Findlay Subject: Re: Index for various lists on the www i found the citt the canadian equivelent of usitt. it had lists of theatre interests. one was a list of costume sights on the internet. try there through a web search tool. Best Wishes Robin ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Walter Robin Findlay Phone: 816-271-4452 Associate Professor of Theatre E-mail:findlay@griffon.mwsc.edu Missouri Western State College Fax: 816-232-0978 4525 Downs Drive Voice Mail: 816-387-3117 St. Joseph, Mo. 64507 is that all there is........ peggy lee - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, TammyDejong wrote: > Hello there, > > I'm looking for someone who has an index of the various lists that are > available. Thanks in advance. > > Tammy > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:07:43 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: Re: McClintock book >Thanks to everyone here for all the advice about the Mairead Dunleavy book! >Now, I just need to find out where to get that McClintock book (Old Irish >and Highland Dress). Anybody? As far as I can tell, it is no longer in print. However, you may be able to get one through your local library's interlibrary loan service. Or if you could tell me what city & state you live in, I might be able to find a college or university near you that has a copy. Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:55:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Gwen Carnegi Subject: Re: Costume Help: fitted arm-holes or not? On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, Mary Larose wrote: > The books I have with good pictures are A History of Costume by Carl > Kohler (pg. 158) and the Medeival Finds in London - Textiles and Clothing > book (pg 180). Another good book is by Margrethe Hald (ok, there are lots of good books by Hald;) titled "Acient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials". A good university library near you should have it. She has good pictures and a line-drawing layout of two tunics that appear to be early medieval. The one has inset sleeves that I can recall that are scoped really wide. They remind me of the way some some sleeves are depicted as being inset in german medieval women's coathardies. Corbie: > > So my question is: > > Would my leine and ionar have fitted/shaped arm holes and sleeves, or would > > it be a basic t-tunic? I'm inclined to use a shaped sleeve, if only so the > > costume can be more versatile. I think that the leine and ionar as most people think of them was developed in the late 15th century. The leine is a shift with a large, deep sleeve and the ionar is a short "jacket" with a pleated skirting attached and an open sleeve. I'm sure there are people out there with more specific info (Heather Rose...Luanne?) Gwyn Carnegie ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:22:20 -0700 From: Subject: Trojan Gold? I read an article in the Wall St. Journal the other day about the exhibition of Trojan gold (that Schleimann found) at the Pushkin Museum in Moscow. There was mention of a catalogue (in German), does anyone know of a US book seller that might be getting any? I've been looking for good photos of the jewelry from that excavation for years. Alison ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #95 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!