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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>



ok, I have a question, I am replicating a 1940's uniform for a client,
who's stature is NOT of that of those enlisted in "the day"  he's 6'4" 
and of course, being a re-enactor, cannot find the apparel in his size.  

my question is....as the sizes of that time get larger, do the lapels
also increase a bit in size?

I hope someone can help me querry this out, as it sounds like such a
stupid question to me (yes, there IS such a thing as a stupid question
-- I'm hoping I don't have to slap myself when I receive an "obvious"
answer)
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Strange request
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

If anyone is selling (e-bay or elsewhere) nifty gauze LONG SLEEVE shirts
(women's) for relatively good prices, please, please let me know so I can
see them... I have run across an interesting quandry... due to medical
reasons, I cannot be outside in the sun without long sleeves and
skirts/pants... not a problem until it gets warm... but I am looking for
long sleeves that are relatively cool... and I really don't have time to
make them... so if anyone is selling any, please let me know.

Thanks.
Sarah

*****now back to your regularly scheduled conversation******

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 15:07:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:15:04 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lapel sizing
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>
>
>ok, I have a question, I am replicating a 1940's uniform for a client,
>who's stature is NOT of that of those enlisted in "the day"  he's 6'4"
>and of course, being a re-enactor, cannot find the apparel in his size.
>
>my question is....as the sizes of that time get larger, do the lapels
>also increase a bit in size?
>
>I hope someone can help me querry this out, as it sounds like such a
>stupid question to me (yes, there IS such a thing as a stupid question
>-- I'm hoping I don't have to slap myself when I receive an "obvious"
>answer)

Not exactly my expertise, but military uniforms tend to run in the same
style as a very conventional business suit of the time, whether 1875 or
1945.  Any other takers?

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 15:10:14 1999
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From: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lapel sizing
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-Poster: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  No absolute knowledge on this one, but an observation:
my father was 6'6", and was in the USMC in WWII.  There are no pics
of him in his uniform blouse (the jacket part), but photos in civilian suits
show lapels proportioned to the suit....

Liadain

> ok, I have a question, I am replicating a 1940's uniform for a client,
> who's stature is NOT of that of those enlisted in "the day"  he's 6'4" 
> and of course, being a re-enactor, cannot find the apparel in his size.
>
> my question is....as the sizes of that time get larger, do the lapels
> also increase a bit in size?
>
> I hope someone can help me querry this out, as it sounds like such a
> stupid question to me (yes, there IS such a thing as a stupid question
> -- I'm hoping I don't have to slap myself when I receive an "obvious"
> answer)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 15:10:28 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOT SO Strange request
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>
>If anyone is selling (e-bay or elsewhere) nifty gauze LONG SLEEVE shirts
>(women's) for relatively good prices, please, please let me know so I can
>see them... I have run across an interesting quandry... due to medical
>reasons, I cannot be outside in the sun without long sleeves and
>skirts/pants... not a problem until it gets warm... but I am looking for
>long sleeves that are relatively cool... and I really don't have time to
>make them... so if anyone is selling any, please let me know.
>
>Thanks.
>Sarah
>
>*****now back to your regularly scheduled conversation******
>
Last time I checked in Cost Plus - or was it Pier 1?- they had Indian
import gauze shirts for sale.

Just a thought but: Would gauze be protection from the sun for you?  My
very fair-skinned husband can get a sunburn through an old shirt, if he's
in the sun long enough.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 15:21:06 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOT SO Strange request
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

>Just a thought but: Would gauze be protection from the sun for you?  My
>very fair-skinned husband can get a sunburn through an old shirt, if he's
>in the sun long enough.

I'm not sure...  see, I usually burn instantly anyway... I still have scars
from 2nd degree burns I got a few years ago in Texas (fell asleep on the
beach)... but, with the meds, I'm not sure... I just can't truly bear the
thought of wearing heavier long sleeves all summer... especially working in
an office with no AC. ;-)

Thanks for the advice, though!


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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>



Frank&Tracy Thallas JR wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> 
>   No absolute knowledge on this one, but an observation:
> my father was 6'6", and was in the USMC in WWII.  There are no pics
> of him in his uniform blouse (the jacket part), but photos in civilian suits
> show lapels proportioned to the suit....

makes sense, yes, BUT men of larger stature weren't as common as they
are now, am I wrong?
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From: <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: NOT SO Strange request
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-Poster: <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sarah Toney

-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

>Just a thought but: Would gauze be protection from the sun for you?  My
>very fair-skinned husband can get a sunburn through an old shirt, if he's
>in the sun long enough.

>I'm not sure...  see, I usually burn instantly anyway... I still have scars
>from 2nd degree burns I got a few years ago in Texas (fell asleep on the
>beach)... but, with the meds, I'm not sure... I just can't truly bear the
>thought of wearing heavier long sleeves all summer... especially working in
>an office with no AC. ;-)

>Thanks for the advice, though!

For sunburn protection, you'll need a tightly woven material. Loosely woven
material will allow the "bad rays" through the cracks. You wouldn't think it
could add up to too much...but it can :\  From experience, your best bet is
something in a tightly woven "twill". They are lightweight in the sense of a
gauze,  but they do come in lighter weights and will give you maximum
protection ... it's material like this that "safari and desert" clothes are
made of..and for a reason...protection from sun etc.. Also, try to keep them
in light colors like whites, tans or pastels, since they reflect the heating
rays more. That's why black is so awful to wear in the summer...it soaks up
the heat.

I don't know of anyone on Ebay with stuff like this...but most Ren Garb
dealers would be able to make something nice for you.

Kyna
Grannd Garb

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-Poster: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


> >   No absolute knowledge on this one, but an observation:
> > my father was 6'6", and was in the USMC in WWII.  There are no pics
> > of him in his uniform blouse (the jacket part), but photos in civilian suits
> > show lapels proportioned to the suit....
>
> makes sense, yes, BUT men of larger stature weren't as common as they
> are now, am I wrong?

  Probably not,  at least statistically ...even today, men are more commonly
between 5'8" and 6'. (My USMC son is also 6'4", and some of his uniform items
have to be special-ordered).
 A  thought - perhaps stills or videos of some of the John Wayne movies of the
time?  He was a big man, and played quite a number of WWII military types...

Happy Hunting!
  Liadain


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 17:36:41 1999
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

I went and got mine before finding out that many JoAnn's fabric 
stores will have their Simplicity patterns on sale for 99 cents each 
this coming Saturday only, but Simplicity has several new historic 
patterns out.  The best is 8725 a woman's gown and surcote circa 1350 
and before and 8728 a matching cape and headpieces.  While none are 
really specific to a particular portrait/sculpture, etc,(that I know 
of, at least) these 2 look about as authentic as a mass market 
pattern is going to be for a while. The pattern-maker is I believe, 
Martha McCain.  I'd like to see other of her patterns.  Does anyone 
on the list know of her and whether or not more patterns are 
forthcoming?. The two patterns I mentioned would be fairly easy to 
alter to a more authentic cut if needed or wanted. I'd love to make 
the gown and surcote for a Christmas dress.  I'm collecting a lot of 
the new retro patterns companies are putting out on the cheap 
figuring when my present wardrobe wears out I will make or have made 
retro pieces that won't date--kind of a New Year's Resolution for 
2000.

One of the views shows the gown in what I swear is a silk 
shantag--looks lovely, but is it period?

Two other patterns: an Italian Ren and circa 1780 are ok for a 
wedding or school play where authenticity isn't really needed or real 
patterns would be budget busters.
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Subject: H-COST: OT-sun protective clothing
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-Poster: "Melinda S. Mayfield" <mayfield@laf.cioe.com>

In response to earlier posts regarding clothing and sun protection, my
dermatologist recommends Solumbra clothing  (I am an extremely fair redhead
on three different kinds of photosensitive medications).  Their website is
http://www.solumbra.com/, and their phone number is 1.800.882.7860.  Their
website says, "Solumbra offers head-to-toe sun protection: Hats, shirts,
pants, and accessories for adults and kids, men and women, that all meet
published medical guidelines.  Solumbra 30+ SPF fabrics protect you all day
from harsh UVA and UVB rays."

Not an employee, just a happy customer.

Melinda


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 02:49 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>
>
>ok, I have a question, I am replicating a 1940's uniform for a client,
>who's stature is NOT of that of those enlisted in "the day"  he's 6'4" 
>and of course, being a re-enactor, cannot find the apparel in his size.  
>

Anah, try talking to your local armed forces recruiter of the appropriate
branch.  One of their duties is to act as a liasion to the public.  He or
she could probably find the correct entity or office  for you to contact to
get specs on uniforms of the 40's.  

My guess is that lapels were graded up along with the rest of the pattern.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 18:01:19 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: NOT SO Strange request
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:14:18 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

A few years ago when I got a lot of clothing catalogs in the
mail, some of them were starting to carry garments made of a
special sun block fabric.  It was supposed to be much more
effective than regular cloth.  I seem to remember even
LLBean, Eddie Bauer, and JCrew having a few garments each.
Was I dreaming?  It's not an issue for me, so it sort of
whizzed right by, but it was used for swim t's for kids and
adults, a kids hat, a tropical weight shirt, etc.  One
catalog even had a whole body suit made of the stuff for
swimming in. Rated like sunscreen lotion.  It wasn't
particularly expensive, as I recall.  Try a hat and a loose
lightweight shirt-jac for outdoor wear that you can remove
indoors in summer, with a shell under for wearing to work
inside.  Best of luck hunting for it.  Sorry I can't give
you any more info.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of kynagrannd@granndgarb.com
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: NOT SO Strange request



-Poster: <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sarah Toney

-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

>Just a thought but: Would gauze be protection from the sun
for you?  My
>very fair-skinned husband can get a sunburn through an old
shirt, if he's
>in the sun long enough.

>I'm not sure...  see, I usually burn instantly anyway... I
still have scars
>from 2nd degree burns I got a few years ago in Texas (fell
asleep on the
>beach)... but, with the meds, I'm not sure... I just can't
truly bear the
>thought of wearing heavier long sleeves all summer...
especially working in
>an office with no AC. ;-)

>Thanks for the advice, though!

For sunburn protection, you'll need a tightly woven
material. Loosely woven
material will allow the "bad rays" through the cracks. You
wouldn't think it
could add up to too much...but it can :\  From experience,
your best bet is
something in a tightly woven "twill". They are lightweight
in the sense of a
gauze,  but they do come in lighter weights and will give
you maximum
protection ... it's material like this that "safari and
desert" clothes are
made of..and for a reason...protection from sun etc.. Also,
try to keep them
in light colors like whites, tans or pastels, since they
reflect the heating
rays more. That's why black is so awful to wear in the
summer...it soaks up
the heat.

I don't know of anyone on Ebay with stuff like this...but
most Ren Garb
dealers would be able to make something nice for you.

Kyna
Grannd Garb


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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:17:05 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> The best is 8725 a woman's gown and surcote circa 1350
> and before and 8728 a matching cape and headpieces.

These are okay.  Even though this is my period and I have researched
quite alot on this, I am going to aquire them.  The gowns, surcote, and
cloak are pretty darn good actually.  The biggest difference with the
patterns and period garments is construction details such as the buttons
and button holes and those tablet woven edges.  But sheesh that's a lot
of work so it might be nice to have cheating way that looks period.

As for the headpieces, the big white ruffly disk is taken directly from a
Rogier Van der Weyden painting of Mary Magdelene.  She is wearing what a
friend calls the Fram Air Filter hat.  *chuckle*  The wrong century too,
15th century for RVdW.  I would pare down those side rolls made orange
juice cans and try toilet paper rolls instead.  *giggle*  And use one
piece of fabric for the veilings, but again a decent place to start.  I'd
rather see a bad job on a head piece than no head piece at all.  It seems
that no one wants to do headdresses.  Probably because they are afraid to
try millenary.  This might make it easier and get some really great garb
going.

> One of the views shows the gown in what I swear is a silk
> shantag--looks lovely, but is it period?

Silk is definitely period.  Shantung is not that I can tell.  But new
evidence comes up all the time.  A medieval person would probably not be
interested in Shantung or Dupioni and would see them as flawed.  Slubby
fabrics were considered inferior as far as I can tell.  What few extant
samples of silk I have seen, it's a pretty even and flat weave.  The
sheen is lovely.  But I do think the golden  and turquoise gowns are
silk, especially the golden dress.  Quite lovely.  The yardage called for
on these gowns is certainly period, *yikes*, talk about conspicuous
consumption.  IMHO, you could use Silk Shantung and claim reasonable
facsimilie no problem.

> Two other patterns: an Italian Ren and circa 1780 are ok for a
> wedding or school play where authenticity isn't really needed or real
> patterns would be budget busters.

Again, not period but absolutely great for beginners.  And higher level
stitchers could use these as a jumping off place.  I will be buying these
too.  I hope Simplicity keeps these patterns around for a long time.
Finally some patterns we can refer to beginners on the list desperate for
something good that don't cost an arm and a leg and is easy to find in
any town or city fabric store with easy to understand directions.

We have discussed that awful peasant's pattern.  I agree it's gross.  But
you know what?  I bought that pattern too.  The shoes are completely
period!!  Those Scottish gillies are perfect.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 21:39:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 21:50:38 +0000
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

>

I have decided to sell about 12 shelves of History of Costume, Fashion,
Sewing/Tailoring and Etiquette books.  They all need good homes
where they can be put to use.

Some I am putting on ebay.com auction.
If you bookmark my site you can see what I am listing. I figure that it will take

some time to list everything. Hope to have about 30 listed this week.

Right how I have:
1879 etiquette & dress: Decorum
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97736000

1869 etiquette: Young Woman' Friend
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97741309

English Costume by Calthrop, 1906
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99420564

What Dress Makes of Us by Quigley 1897
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99437155

Two Centuries of Costume in America in 2 vols. by Earle
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99450991

Royal Dress by Cumming
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99454829

Other titles have been listed on Bibliofind.com:
There are also many older tailoring titles: use tailoring in subject.

Earle. Costume of Colonial Times
Trautman. Dress Vol. 13, 1987
Eddy. The Young Woman's Friend 1860
The Ladies' Work-Table Book, 1847
Weddings, Formal and Informal, 1891
Colle. Collars Stocks Cravats
Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume
Rothstein. A Lady of Fashion, Barbara Johnson
Cunnington. Costume
Priest. Costumes From the Forbidden City
Ribeiro. The Visual History of Costume
Saint-Laurent. Histoire Imprevue des Dessous
Strutt. A Complete View of the Dress and Habits-England, 2 vol. 1796
N/A. The Art of Courting 1795
the Young Ladies Journal 1864
N/A. Dress, 1980
Picken. The Language of Fashion
Kybalova. Pictorial Ency. of Fashion
Laver. Costume

Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 22:12:44 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Interesting rumor...
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:22:51 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

This came across another mailing list I'm on.  I'm sure as heck going to be
writing Dover!  Newton is a wonderful source!

>>From a friend who works in a bookstore, doing our of print searches, I
have
>to following news.  the CEO of Dover books has been approached about doing
a
>reprint of Stella Mary Newton's FASHION IN THE AGE OF THE BLACK PRINCE. He
>agreed to look into the possiblity.  Perhaps a letter would help advise him
>of the need for the repriniting of this book.
>
>Donna C. Conrad
>Assistant Professor
>Department of Theatre, Film Studies and Dance
>St Cloud State University
>St Cloud, MN 56301
>320-2554702
>
>"Meandering to a different drummer."
>
>


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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 03:33 PM 05/03/1999 -0400, Sarah Toney wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>I'm not sure...  see, I usually burn instantly anyway... I still have scars
>from 2nd degree burns I got a few years ago in Texas (fell asleep on the
>beach)... but, with the meds, I'm not sure... I just can't truly bear the
>thought of wearing heavier long sleeves all summer... especially working in
>an office with no AC. ;-)
>
>Thanks for the advice, though!

>From the experience of a friend of mine working here in
Sacramento--outdoors, all summer (temperatures of 100+F [40+C])--A lined
sleeve is more comfortable, especially of the outer fabric is lightweight.
Since it sounds like your work is indoors, you could simply have a second
lightweight (white, to reflect the sunlight better) long-sleeved blouse to
put on over your other one when you go outside; one layer of cotton gauze
will *not* protect you from the sun. Muslin weight over gauze would be
better. A nice Chinese or Japanese parasol will also be good protection;
from experience I know that it is *much* cooler than wearing a hat. I'm
partial to red parasols, myself.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: "Cynthia Bucheger" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

What does it mean when you are in a fabric store with your mother and a
pattern on display catches your eye and you say something about wanting
to make that dress, and then she says - "I had that pattern.  I have
pictures to prove it."  Do you still make the dress?
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Sarah,
Check out Deva Lifewear.  It's mostly cotton clothing in relatively
simple but well made garments.  I've gotten shirts for my husband to
wear with period stuff, and their's are better made and less expensive
than many re-enactor suppliers.  Check out the Adventure, Bucaneer, and
mariner shirts.  Address is:
Deva Lifewear
110 1st Avenue West
PO Box S99Westhope, ND 58793
Phone: 1-800-222-8024
Fax: 1-800-251-1746
Website:www.devalifewear.com

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May  3 23:43:13 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Sarah,
There's also a site for Travelsmith that carries a Solarian (sp?) fabric
shirt which blocks out 90% I think of the sun's rays.  I think it's a
bit more expensive, but is also vented for air flow.

Janice Dallas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 00:04:16 1999
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

<< I just can't truly bear the thought of wearing heavier long sleeves all 
summer... especially working in an office with no AC>>

I always wear my Dad's old (1960's) long sleeve white cotton shirts in the 
yard because I get welts from being scratched by any plant matter.  And now 
that I plan to go to a Victorian Ball here in June, I also have to protect 
myself from any sunburn!

In the Travel Holiday magazine for May there is an ad for "Solumbra" 
sunprotective clothing including shirts and hats.  Their web page is listed 
as www.solumbra.com or call 1-800-882-7860.  I have never used their 
products, but travel or adventure magazines might be a good place to look for 
other ads.  

I have bought clothes from the sporting/ outdoor goods supplier REI, though 
not online (rei.com).  They have several summer weight cotton/ nylon shirts 
with <rollup> sleeves (for inside the office) that have venting panels, etc., 
in men's and women's sizes.  I find that some women's sizes have sleeves that 
are too short whereas in men's shirts they are more standardized to a longer 
sleeve.  

Good luck with your search.
Joan in Minneapolis
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 00:14:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 23:28:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: new Simplicity Patterns
In-Reply-To: <372E62D3.333B@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

Yes.  I once picked up a pattern at a yard sale, made the jumper, had my
mother comment on the familliarity of the pattern, and then had an
identical jumper (in denim) appear out of the attic.  Now I wear them
both.

Emma

On Mon, 3 May 1999, Cynthia Bucheger wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Cynthia Bucheger" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
> 
> What does it mean when you are in a fabric store with your mother and a
> pattern on display catches your eye and you say something about wanting
> to make that dress, and then she says - "I had that pattern.  I have
> pictures to prove it."  Do you still make the dress?
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:32:54 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: new Simplicity Patterns
In-Reply-To: <372E62D3.333B@wireweb.net>
References: <003101be9598$049cb8e0$6f01a8c0@lapis.rentgrow.com>
 <199905032144.QAA04482@mailjay.creighton.edu>
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

At 10:00 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Bucheger" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
>
>What does it mean when you are in a fabric store with your mother and a
>pattern on display catches your eye and you say something about wanting
>to make that dress, and then she says - "I had that pattern.  I have
>pictures to prove it."  Do you still make the dress?
>

IT MEANS....you have fulfilled your worst adolescent nightmare and turned
into your mother.
Join the club!

Kim
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lapel sizing
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:33:57 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> my question is....as the sizes of that time get larger, do the lapels
> also increase a bit in size?


Lapel size alters with fashion on a regualar basis. Laples for a certain
era remain in proportion to the rest of the suit regardless of the size of
the suit. You will notice that things worn with the suit alrer to remain in
proportion with the suit, for example, 1960s suits had narrow lapels and
thinner overall line and collars and ties were smaller to match. Periods
with wider lapels had wider ties and longer collared shirts.

The question relates to the 1940s and there was a curiosity of note at this
time, brought on by wartime austerity. In an effort to use less fabric,
clothing makers introduced the Victory Suit. It had narrower lapels, and no
waistcoat. Although the Victory Suit became reasonable popular, much of
civilian menswear of the period remained 1930s in look; men bought fewer
suits during the war years because they were either away on service or
because of availability.

Of course, all of the above is generalisation and regional and personal
economic factors should also be considered.


-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 09:59:29 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

this is a copy of an officer's "blouse" from the 1940's  I have no idea
why they called the jackets "blouses" but they did.  I was referring to
proportional size of the components of the jacket of that time.  

The client was at my studio, and we got the lapel to where it needed to
be proportionally so all is well now, I appreciate everyone's imput. 
thank you.

anah


Christopher Ballis wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> 
> > my question is....as the sizes of that time get larger, do the lapels
> > also increase a bit in size?
> 
> Lapel size alters with fashion on a regualar basis. Laples for a certain
> era remain in proportion to the rest of the suit regardless of the size of
> the suit. You will notice that things worn with the suit alrer to remain in
> proportion with the suit, for example, 1960s suits had narrow lapels and
> thinner overall line and collars and ties were smaller to match. Periods
> with wider lapels had wider ties and longer collared shirts.
> 
> The question relates to the 1940s and there was a curiosity of note at this
> time, brought on by wartime austerity. In an effort to use less fabric,
> clothing makers introduced the Victory Suit. It had narrower lapels, and no
> waistcoat. Although the Victory Suit became reasonable popular, much of
> civilian menswear of the period remained 1930s in look; men bought fewer
> suits during the war years because they were either away on service or
> because of availability.
> 
> Of course, all of the above is generalisation and regional and personal
> economic factors should also be considered.
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------9E4B6152A27F6D7B49DEC1B8
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Finally some patterns we can refer to beginners on the list desperate for
> something good that don't cost an arm and a leg and is easy to find in
> any town or city fabric store with easy to understand directions.
>
That`s exactly my problem, we don`t have Simplicity patterns in Germany
;-)...Could anybody of this list who is going to a sale of the patterns,
get me No.8725
woman`s gown and the 1780`s dress?
I will pay all your expenses (patterns + shipping) back in dollars.

If anybody is able and would like to help, please contact me privately,
thank you!

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------9E4B6152A27F6D7B49DEC1B8
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Finally some patterns we can refer to beginners on the list desperate for
something good that don't cost an arm and a leg and is easy to find in
any town or city fabric store with easy to understand directions.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
That`s exactly my problem, we don`t have Simplicity patterns in Germany
;-)...Could anybody of this list who is going to a sale of the patterns,
get me No.8725
<BR>woman`s gown and the 1780`s dress?
<BR>I will pay all your expenses (patterns + shipping) back in dollars.

<P>If anybody is able and would like to help, please contact me privately,
thank you!

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------9E4B6152A27F6D7B49DEC1B8--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 13:14:11 1999
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From: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT-makeup tips
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Can any of you theatrical people tell my how to
temporarily disguise a double chin for a photo? 
Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
_________________________________________________________
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: new Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> That`s exactly my problem, we don`t have Simplicity patterns in Germany
> ;-)...Could anybody of this list who is going to a sale of the patterns,
> get me No.8725
> woman`s gown and the 1780`s dress?
> I will pay all your expenses (patterns + shipping) back in dollars.
> 
> If anybody is able and would like to help, please contact me privately,
> thank you!

I'm going to be at the sale, picking up several patterns. Some of them are
Titanic-inspired, a few 'medieval', the bustle pattern and so on. What size
were you looking for? And while I'm there, are there any other patterns
(Vintage Vogue, etc.) that you need? Let me know, shopping is my favorite
full-contact sport! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 13:34:51 1999
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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: OT-makeup tips
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:39:44 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

Use a foundation or powder that is darker than your own face to "shadow"
your double chin. That is what pro's do, but they usually have powder and
just brush it with a large brush, like we do blush. The same powder works to
create cheekbone hollows and slim your nose. It just depends on how much you
apply. Blend well.
Good luck!
~Meryld

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kristen M. Sieber
Sent: Tuesday, 04 May, 1999 10:23
To: Historic Costume
Subject: H-COST: OT-makeup tips



-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Can any of you theatrical people tell my how to
temporarily disguise a double chin for a photo?
Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 14:25:24 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 14:34:53 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

Well, I am surprised that no one has brought up the two Stars Wars sneak
previews on television last night.  So did anyone see on ET the costume
segment?  The principle designer hired 50 costume assistants.  The costumes
for the film were inspired from ancient cultures.  This is evident in the
Queen's costumes.  The Queen's costumes were breath-taking.  There were
initially three costumes for her, but Lucas decided that he wanted her in a
different costume for every scene.  I'd love to know how much the costume
budget was.  ET will have a live interview with Lucas on Thursday night.
They will be answering questions from the ET website,
http://www.etonline.com/ .

The other sneak peek was on VH-1.  For thirty minutes, they kept repeating a
portion of the score for the film.  Great view of the characters!

My hubbie laughed when he saw this last night.... he said "All the
reproduction designers will stop getting requests for Rose and start getting
requests for the Queen."

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 14:29:16 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Here is a website that has a period painting with the bizarre headdress
that folks are talking about.  Cynthia

> http://artchive.com/ftp_site.htm  Go to this website.  The artist's
> names are in a frame column on the left.  Click on WEYDEN.  When you
> get the Rogier van der Weyden page, click on Magdalen.  There she is
> in all her glory!  Fram Air Filter hat.  *giggle*

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 15:09:12 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity #8728
Message-Id: <925845513.22695.916@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 12:18:33 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Here is a website that has a period painting with the bizarre headdress
> that folks are talking about.  Cynthia

Thank you for posting this, it will help much in my own research. Now, to
find some of that 'copious spare time' I used to have laying around . . .

> 
> > http://artchive.com/ftp_site.htm  Go to this website.  The artist's
> > names are in a frame column on the left.  Click on WEYDEN.  When you
> > get the Rogier van der Weyden page, click on Magdalen.  There she is
> > in all her glory!  Fram Air Filter hat.  *giggle*

When that description was first mentioned, I didn't quite believe it. I
should have known better. Looks like a strange way to store wide ribbon trim
to me . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Lookie What I Found On The Web
Message-Id: <925850947.13656.380@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 13:49:07 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

http://home.att.net/~merylh/dressmak/patterns.htm


A place to check out the big pattern companies. Pretty nifty, and it looks
like they've got all the major names. Simplicity, Vogue, McCalls, etc. Nice
way to check out what you want, if a fabric shop is not near at hand. (Or
you only have time to browse at 3 am.)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 14:02:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

I missed these specials, and don't get VH-1, but I did purchase the special
SW edition of Entertainment mag with the young Queen on the cover just so I
could drool over the closeup detail on her spectacular red costume.
~G

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Tuesday, 04 May, 1999 11:35
To: h-costume
Subject: H-COST: Star Wars



-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

Well, I am surprised that no one has brought up the two Stars Wars sneak
previews on television last night.  So did anyone see on ET the costume
segment?  The principle designer hired 50 costume assistants.  The costumes
for the film were inspired from ancient cultures.  This is evident in the
Queen's costumes.  The Queen's costumes were breath-taking.  There were
initially three costumes for her, but Lucas decided that he wanted her in a
different costume for every scene.  I'd love to know how much the costume
budget was.  ET will have a live interview with Lucas on Thursday night.
They will be answering questions from the ET website,
http://www.etonline.com/ .

The other sneak peek was on VH-1.  For thirty minutes, they kept repeating a
portion of the score for the film.  Great view of the characters!

My hubbie laughed when he saw this last night.... he said "All the
reproduction designers will stop getting requests for Rose and start getting
requests for the Queen."

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 18:22:55 1999
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-Poster: "Hope A. Greenberg" <hag@zoo.uvm.edu>


This month's Vogue magazine has a feature article on Queen Amidala's
gowns. Only a few pages but great pictures and some interesting
information--things like, the black web dress took 30 hours to make by
hand, the red dress has lights around the hem, and the pearl headdress
came from an early 20th century vintage gown. And don't forget, you can
download the teaser and the trailer from www.apple.com (as long as you
have patience, lots of disk space and QuickTime 3 for Macs or Windows!). 

- Hope

-----------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag


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From: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>
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-Poster: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>

	Well I hadn't because it wasn't historic, but I've already made a
costume from the trailer -- a queen's handmaiden dress.  They're the ones
in the lt yellow to rust shaded dresses.  I spent the better part of a
week playing with dyes before I got an acceptable ombre.  the colors arent
quite correct (the first yellow isn't quite light enough and the last rust
isn't quite dark enough).  But it was the morning of the con, so it was
done.  I wore it and two people recognized it.  I'm sure more will later
as (not planned, but a good side effect) I stood out amid all the black
and got lots of comments on that.  

No, I'm not a rabid star wars fan, just a rabid costumer.  
(I also made a costume from an online game I'm playing with friends--
cause I thought it would look cool :-) 

Susan Courney

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 20:27:23 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: "sca-garb" <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 19:37:08 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Can someone help SalsaDansr@aol.com find a flamenco dress pattern?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: SalsaDansr@aol.com <SalsaDansr@aol.com>
To: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:22 PM
Subject: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern


:Should you have any information on how i could get a Flamenco dress pattern
:please e-mail me or write or fax to the adress below.
:Thanking you,
:Xenia Donohue
:7301 Sw 162nd St
:Miami,fl
:33157
:Fax:305 232-3562
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May  4 21:03:43 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: OT-makeup tips
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 17:47:49 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

A lot of it has to do with the photography.  The first thing
that will draw the viewer's attention in the shot will be
where there is the greatest contrast, i. e light next to
dark.  Make sure that point is on the eyes and cheekbones,
with shadow on the underside of the chin.

There should be nothing about or near the neck or chest to
draw attention.  No jewelry, no color contrast, just darkish
blah. Black jacket with dark ascot , dark T, or dark
turtleneck kind of look.

 If the subject's hair and hat is attractive, consider
backlighting the subject's head with strong light.  This
creates a halo effect and casts the neck in shadow. Diffused
lighting on the eyes and center face will keep that area in
focus.

Another trick is to have the character look up, put on a
theatric gesture with his arms, and then take the picture
looking down at him.  Or twist his head around over his
shoulder looking back and you take the shot from the back.

Full body shots with a theatrical gesture can be very
attractive with heavy subjects--think of Tevia as he signs
Fiddler on the Roof!

Dress the subject correctly, then play with lighting and
camera angles until  you see the look you want.  Then snap
that picture!

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kristen M. Sieber
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:23 PM
To: Historic Costume
Subject: H-COST: OT-makeup tips



-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Can any of you theatrical people tell my how to
temporarily disguise a double chin for a photo?
Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sun protective clothing
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 23:17:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Try looking for item made with Solarweave. I has a "built in" SPF, I =
can't remember how high but I have seen it marketed to skin cancer =
patients and I think it is around 30. It is a nylon windbreaker type =
fabric, the same company makes a knit and I think a twill. The web site =
http://www.solarweave.com lists manufacturers and retailers =
using/selling solarweave.=20
If anyone knows of a source for yardage of any of these fabrics please =
e-mail me, I had one site but their web page has gone down and I would =
much rather make my own shirt.

Beth

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Try looking for item made with Solarweave. I has a =
"built in"=20
SPF, I can't remember how high but I have seen it marketed to skin =
cancer=20
patients and I think it is around 30. It is a nylon windbreaker type =
fabric, the=20
same company makes a knit and I think a twill. The web site <A=20
href=3D"http://www.solarweave.com">http://www.solarweave.com</A>&nbsp;lis=
ts=20
manufacturers and retailers using/selling solarweave. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If anyone knows of a source for yardage of any of =
these=20
fabrics please e-mail me, I had one site but their web page has gone =
down and I=20
would much rather make my own shirt.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 03:49:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 00:55:28 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Diana wrote:

> That`s exactly my problem, we don`t have Simplicity patterns in
> Germany ;-)...Could anybody of this list who is going to a sale
> of the patterns, get me No.8725 woman`s gown and the 1780`s dress?
> I will pay all your expenses (patterns + shipping) back in dollars.

I already owe Diana a favor for helping me get a German costume book, so I'll
take care of this.  :-)

Fare thee well,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/4/99 11:26:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

<< Oh well, girls have been called Velvet and Dimity...any 
 >other
 >fabric names that have become given names? 
 >
 >Margo

Hmmmm.......does that stodgey old Puritan Cotton Mather count?
 >>

How about Polly & Ester?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 12:19:28 1999
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From: "Erin Kilpatrick" <azrael7@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:27:45 PDT
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-Poster: "Erin Kilpatrick" <azrael7@hotmail.com>

Could you please forward any info to me too?  Thanks!

>From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "sca-garb" <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
>CC: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
>Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 19:37:08 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>
>Can someone help SalsaDansr@aol.com find a flamenco dress pattern?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>Dallas, Texas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: SalsaDansr@aol.com <SalsaDansr@aol.com>
>To: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
>Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:22 PM
>Subject: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
>
>
>:Should you have any information on how i could get a Flamenco dress 
>pattern
>:please e-mail me or write or fax to the adress below.
>:Thanking you,
>:Xenia Donohue
>:7301 Sw 162nd St
>:Miami,fl
>:33157
>:Fax:305 232-3562
>:
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 12:55:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 13:08:06 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jeannie Gambill <j_gambill@clinch.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
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-Poster: Jeannie Gambill <j_gambill@clinch.edu>

Please post this info in the list! I am currently looking for a pattern for
a local high school.
Thanks!

At 09:27 AM 5/5/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Erin Kilpatrick" <azrael7@hotmail.com>
>
>Could you please forward any info to me too?  Thanks!
>
>>From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>>To: "sca-garb" <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
>>CC: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
>>Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 19:37:08 -0500
>>
>>
>>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>>
>>Can someone help SalsaDansr@aol.com find a flamenco dress pattern?
>>
>>Sincerely,
>>F. Havas
>>Dallas, Texas
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: SalsaDansr@aol.com <SalsaDansr@aol.com>
>>To: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
>>Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:22 PM
>>Subject: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
>>
>>
>>:Should you have any information on how i could get a Flamenco dress 
>>pattern
>>:please e-mail me or write or fax to the adress below.
>>:Thanking you,
>>:Xenia Donohue
>>:7301 Sw 162nd St
>>:Miami,fl
>>:33157
>>:Fax:305 232-3562
>>:
>>
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())
	
JEANNIE FARTHING GAMBILL, Costume Designer	
	Department of Visual & Performing Arts
	CVC Highland Players

CLINCH VALLEY COLLEGE of the University of Virginia

THESE ARE THE DAYS OF MIRACLES & WONDER... Paul Simon

(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())(())
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 13:07:58 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT-makeup tips
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:53:28 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi List,

Kirsten wrote:
> Can any of you theatrical people tell my how to
> temporarily disguise a double chin for a photo?
> Thanks.

Pauline always asks me to be photographed from above, looking up. Hey
presto: no chins...

Henk


(couldn't resist that ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 13:16:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 13:18:14 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For stage, and to a lesser extent, photos, I use a dark brown eyeliner
to draw a line at my jawline,( or a bit lower if I'm singing)then blend
it down into the neck.  Keep the line on the light side for photos,
heavier for stage, especially when you're on the far side of the
orchestra.  Same technique works to hollow cheeks, define eyes and nose,
etc.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 14:39:50 1999
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From: "dave;editors(Heritage Matters)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.6.32.19990505130806.00b9aad0@mail.clinch.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: Flamenco Dress Costume Pattern
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:52:57 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Words to the Wise
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-Poster: "dave;editors(Heritage Matters)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: Jeannie Gambill <j_gambill@clinch.edu>
>
> Please post this info in the list! I am currently looking for a pattern
for
> a local high school.
> Thanks!
>
 I think you need an architect for that.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 15:03:22 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale Dates
Message-Id: <925931548.22436.639@excite.com>
Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 12:12:28 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

My first message with this info did not go through. At least, *I* didn't see
it. If someone has gotten this twice, I extend my most humble grovel of
apology.

The Simplicity 99$ pattern sale, which we've assumed is to be held on May
8th, is instead being held on May 15th & 16th. (Just got the flyer last
night, and that's what it says.) There is a limit of 5 patterns listed on
the flyer, but nothing that says a customer may not make more than one trip
through! (I suppose we could wear disguises . . .)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 16:19:45 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: More Patterns from the 50's
Message-Id: <925936095.5080.23@excite.com>
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

http://www.butterick.com/catalog/dress.html

Check out the above URL for Butterick's new 'Retro' line. Looks like we've
got a trend here, folks!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 16:25:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 13:36:02 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I got the flyer too.  It does say May 15 & 16.  But my store also has a sign for
the 8th.  I'd call before assuming it won't be on the 8th just because there is
a new flyer.  FWIW.

> The Simplicity 99$ pattern sale, which we've assumed is to be held on May
> 8th, is instead being held on May 15th & 16th. (Just got the flyer last
> night, and that's what it says.)

Now this idea rocks!!  Why did I never think of that?   ~ Cynthia

> There is a limit of 5 patterns listed on
> the flyer, but nothing that says a customer may not make more than one trip
> through! (I suppose we could wear disguises . . .)

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May  5 17:47:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale Dates
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-Poster: Tracy Miller <tmiller@Haas.Berkeley.EDU>

>I got the flyer too.  It does say May 15 & 16.  But my store also has a sign 
>for
>the 8th.  I'd call before assuming it won't be on the 8th just because
there is
>a new flyer.  FWIW.

I just got off the phone with my local Jo-Ann's and it looks like the sale
will be on the 8th, the 15th AND the16th!  Yay!  (This may be a regional
thing though, so YMMV).

Tracy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tracy Miller - tmiller@haas.berkeley.edu	
http://www.haas.berkeley.edu/~tmiller/home.htm
 - Flexilis sum, gluten es, quod me resilit, ad te haeret! -
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Well I, for one, am totally impressed with Simplicity! I just happened to be 
in the fabric store the other day (funny how often that happens. . .) and saw 
their costume catalogue. Yup, a whole catalogue of costumes, which they have 
divided into a "Timeline of History" thing. Some are great, some are so-so, 
but ALL are so much better than anything else on the market. I mean, the 
general retail market, not custom. 

As for the 1370s gown -- WOW! It's on the cover of the costume catlogue, and 
they sure spent some bucks doing that one up in silk! What a fantastic 
resource for anyone just starting out in medieval costume. Unfortunately, to 
keep the pattern simple (and the skirt width approaching accuracy) the 
pattern drafter has you wasting a lot of fabric. I doubt many beginning 
sewers will be out there buying the requisite 10 yards of silk -- or even 
cotton. But I am going to hop right out when the 99 cents sale starts and get 
that one myself, so I can get a real sleeve pattern (I just can't work one up 
myself), and while I'm at it I'll try to replicate the same amount of skirt 
using gores, and using a lot less fabric. Or at least I'll compare it to the 
pattern I've worked out through extensive trial and error.

Gail Finke

PS: At the last 99 cents sale, I picked up the Simplicity Renaissance doll 
clothes pattern for American Girl dolls. Two of the outfits are great. I 
thought some people on this list might like to know about it, too!

PPS: I can't wait to see someone really wearing that van der Weyden hat!



 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 00:11:35 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 00:19:07 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Corrected Period Patterns?!?!?
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

I picked up a copy of the Period Pattern/Medieval Miscellania #41, Italian 
Renaissance Gowns last weekend at the VA RenFaire to replace my 
now-in-about-200-different-places previous copy.  I didn't get around to 
opening the envelope till tonite, but when I did I got a surprise.  Has this 
pattern been corrected?  It has definitely been reprinted since my past copy, 
the dress pieces are now spread across numerous sheets of beige tissue, 
instead of piled on top of each other on a sheet of white.  It now also has 2 
more sizes (6 and 20).  

I remember hearing when Hist. Yours first bought the rights to these that 
they planned to eventually correct the drafting errors and incorporate them 
when each pattern needed reprinting.  Anyone know if this is what happened?  

Crossing fingers and toes,
Jen/Nora
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 01:35:42 1999
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

I've seen Satin and Satina, but possibly they were in a romance novel. I
know Damask was.
Carol Mitchell
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 6 May 1999 lynnx@mc.net wrote:

> 
> -Poster: lynnx@mc.net
> 
> I've seen Satin and Satina, but possibly they were in a romance novel. I
> know Damask was.
Well Scarlett was once the name of a kind of cloth, but that's all I can
think of.....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

What is Qiana? I've never heard of it. Perhaps, if it's a trade name, a different one was used in Europe?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby (UK)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 04:54:38 1999
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings all,

Forgive the delay in response.

Kristen wrote:

> I have a pair of authentic Greek sandals (Pier 1 special).  They
> tie up the calf in the traditional way, but I can't keep them up!
> I tie them at the top of my calf, but short of totally cutting off
> my circulation, I just can't keep them from falling down.  Any help?

I've got a pair of sandles that tie over the calf, so I might be able to help.

How many times do you wrap and how wide are the straps?

The straps on my sandles are about 3/4" wide and cross over each other three
times in front and in back.  This means that the top wrap is almost
horizontal.  You might try tying the top cross over with a small thong to keep
it tight.  (I'll explain further if this is confusing.)

I've found that they do need to be rather tight, and even then they will work
themselves loose over time.  It might also help that I have very muscular
calves.  (14" below the knee, 17" at the calf.)

Feel free to ask for more help if necessary.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 07:21:10 +0000
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-Poster: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>

The executive director and producer have posted this on theatrical 
sites around the web.  I thought that since there have been so many 
people inquire about theatrical positions for costumers, someone on 
h-costume might be interested too.  

Job Describtion:

Shakespeare in Delaware Park is looking for a costume shop supervisor for its 
24th season of Henry IV, Part II and Measure for Measure.  This contract is 
for the period of May 24 - July 30, 1999, [10 weeks].  The costume shop is 
located at SUNY Fredonia.

Duties:  Working with designer to implement plots for both productions, 
general management and maintenance of shop, overseeing shop personnel, assist 
with fittings, keep track of rentals and do returns for 1st production.  Some 
cutting and stitching required.  Having vehicle a plus.

Salary: $300 per week + Housing

Contact:  Nancy Doherty
DirectBard@aol.com


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From: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns?!?!?
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-Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>


> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
> I picked up a copy of the Period Pattern/Medieval
> Miscellania #41, Italian Renaissance Gowns last 
> weekend at the VA RenFaire to replace my previous 
> copy.  I didn't get around to opening the envelope 
> till tonite, but when I did I got a surprise.  Has 
> this pattern been corrected?  It has definitely been
> reprinted since my past copy, the dress pieces are 
> now spread across numerous sheets of beige tissue, 
> instead of piled on top of each other on a sheet of
> white.  

Speaking of Period Patterns/Med. Misc., does anyone
have contact info for them, to possibly get a catalog?
I can't find them anywhere around here (NE Kansas)!

Margretta
===

Margretta de Vries

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 10:26:16 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 10:38:21 +0000
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

>

Hi all,

I have listed more costume history books on ebay.
I'll have a few more after this and then when I get back to WV from Florida
in about 2 weeks I'll be listing more. It most likely will take me a month or
more to list all of my titles. Some are from stock and some from my own
library. Can anyone ever have too many books?

So bookmark me at ebay. 8^)
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=books7

Some interesting titles that I added yesterday are: (there are also some
fashion books listed)

Early Bourbon 1590-1643 by Blum
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100266968

What People Wore by Gorsline
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100285974

Costume Language by Davies
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100314348

Historical Encyclopedia of Costume by Racinet (reprint)
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100322075

Fairholt's Costume in England, 2 vol. 1896
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100327755

English Historic Costume Painting Books by Winsor & Newton
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100390710

Man and the Horse by Mackay-Smith
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100399881

Clothes by Laver
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100450823

Modesty in Dress by Laver
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100455950

Men and Women by Kidwell and Steele
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100511960

Hope that you can find something to enhance your research.

Lois




--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:02 AM 5/6/99 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>
>What is Qiana? I've never heard of it. Perhaps, if it's a trade name, a
different one was used in Europe?

It's a polyester jersey that was popular  in the 70's .Think of disco
dresses and those silk screened (Nik Nik?) shirts.
  It had a very fluid hand, draped beautifully, and was a nighmare to sew
due to skipped stitches and its habit of getting sucked down into the feed
dogs.  
The first money I ever earned, went I was 16, was spent on black Quina.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 11:21:48 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>



in regard to UK shoe sizes, what is the conversion? meaning, if one
wears a 9 in US sizes, what is it likely to be in UK sizes?
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:39:42 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns?!?!?
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>



> 
> -Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
> 
> 
> > -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
> > I picked up a copy of the Period Pattern/Medieval
> > Miscellania #41, Italian Renaissance Gowns last 
> > weekend at the VA RenFaire to replace my previous 
> > copy.  I didn't get around to opening the envelope 
> > till tonite, but when I did I got a surprise.  Has 
> > this pattern been corrected?  It has definitely been
> > reprinted since my past copy, the dress pieces are 
> > now spread across numerous sheets of beige tissue, 
> > instead of piled on top of each other on a sheet of
> > white.  
> 
> Speaking of Period Patterns/Med. Misc., does anyone
> have contact info for them, to possibly get a catalog?
> I can't find them anywhere around here (NE Kansas)!
> 
> Margretta

Greetings, everyone,

I happen to be friends with the owner of Historically Yours, formerly Costume Connection, 
which produces Period Patterns. Last time I heard, they did not have the rights to make 
changes to the patterns, but that situation may have changed. I will ask Steve about that, 
and also find out if there is a catalog in print right now. Unfortunately their Web site has 
been down for some time now and I don't know when it's going to be back up.

--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 11:32:31 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

I've answered my own question, in looking about, I came upon a
conversion chart!  I do notice it only goes as high as women's 9 1/2 
but I also found this at a business, so mabe they only make women's
shoes up to that size.

UK Shoe Size  European   US Female  US Male
    F4         37          5.5       -
     F5        38           6.5      -
     F6        39.5	    7.5	     -
     F7	       40.5         8.5     7.5
     F8        42           9.5    
8.5                                            
     M8        42.5          -      9
     M9        43            -      10
    M10        44.5          -      11
    M11        45.5          -      12
              
               
Anah wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> 
> in regard to UK shoe sizes, what is the conversion? meaning, if one
> wears a 9 in US sizes, what is it likely to be in UK sizes?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 11:40:32 1999
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From: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: SHOE sizes
Date: 	Thu, 6 May 1999 11:49:49 -0400
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-Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>

I have a quarrel with the chart Anah forwarded.

I wear US women's shoe size 10, US men's shoe size 7-1/2, and Euro (Doc
Martin's, Jos. Seibel) size 41.

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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

I only forwarded what I have found.  I didn't say it was accurate, and I
did mention It was curious that the chart I found only went up to a size
9.5  

sorry.

GRM Files wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>
> 
> I have a quarrel with the chart Anah forwarded.
> 
> I wear US women's shoe size 10, US men's shoe size 7-1/2, and Euro (Doc
> Martin's, Jos. Seibel) size 41.
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 11:57:38 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I found the chart a bit off also.  Wonder if they changed shoe sizes the
way our patterns "up-dated" dress sizes.  I'm a woman's US 10, Euro 41,
but my (chunky) US men's boots were 8 or 8 and a half.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

so much for my excitement in finding a chart.....next time I'll be
quiet.  again, my apologies


Janice Dallas wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
> 
> I found the chart a bit off also.  Wonder if they changed shoe sizes the
> way our patterns "up-dated" dress sizes.  I'm a woman's US 10, Euro 41,
> but my (chunky) US men's boots were 8 or 8 and a half.
> 
> Janice Dallas
> JaniceDals@mediaone.net
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 12:00:53 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Now, my Qiana fabric was a printed satin with a stiffer hand.  I always
thought it was a nylon fabric, but could be mixed up.  It was as
expensive as Tencel is now, so didn't stay in the market for many
years.  I don't remember having the clamminess that I always get wearing
poly.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 12:08:36 1999
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From: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>
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Subject: H-COST: sleeve or glove?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:16:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>

Greetings everyone!

I am helping a friend that is doing a paper for women's studies and she is
wanting to know what the term is for a certain piece of clothing.

You know the sleeves that are tight fitting right down to the wrist?  and
sometimes you see them extended right down onto the hand and come to a point
over the third knuckle. Sometimes the point has a string that loops around
the third finger.  Does anyone know what that hand extension is called?  I
tried looking it up under gloves and sleeves in several of my costume
dictionaries but to no avail.  Any help would be gratefully accepted.  Also,
if you have the time period it was first popular in, that would be great
too.....

Thanks in advance!

Desamona
Chatelaine of Hartwood
m.k.a  Brandy Dickson

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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:31:04 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I sent this reply to the SCA garb list and then saw the question on H-Cost.  So for
those of you not on both lists, here's my reply to H-Cost.  Please forgive the cross
posting and just delete if you get both lists.  Cynthia

> > You know the sleeves that are tight fitting right down to the wrist?  and
> > sometimes you see them extended right down onto the hand and come to a point
> > over the third knuckle. Sometimes the point has a string that loops around
> > the third finger.  Does anyone know what that hand extension is called?
>
> As far as I can tell this addition of a loop over the third finger from a point
> on the sleeve is a figment of someone's imagination from the 19th and 20th
> centuries.  I have yet to see any evidence for this in "primary" or "secondary"
> sources.  Not that I have seen everything, I haven't.  But if I were your friend
> I would seriously consider not putting something referring to this in her paper
> at all.  If she *does* have documentation for such a thing, like a picture, I
> want that info!  A very sexy look, but not period that I have seen.  And this is
> my century of research.  The long sleeves that come down to the knuckles with no
> points are simply called sleeves.
>
> > I tried looking it up under gloves and sleeves in several of my costume
> > dictionaries but to no avail.  Any help would be gratefully accepted.  Also,
> > if you have the time period it was first popular in, that would be great
> > too.....
>
> The fact that it isn't in any of these references really brings home the fact
> that it isn't there.  She should drop this from her paper.
>
> FWIW,  Merouda
>
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Christina <magdlena@texas.net>

To help in your quest, my size 5.5 feet american fit well in both size 35
and 36 European.
-Magdalena



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From: Jennifer Carlson <JCarlson@firstchurchtulsa.org>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Quiana
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:40:56 -0500
Organization: FPC
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-Poster: Jennifer Carlson <JCarlson@firstchurchtulsa.org>

When I was in junior high and high school, I was forced to endure wearing a 
black quiana gown for orchestra recitals.  It was bad enough that the 
pattern had been selected to flatter a willowy build - it had a rectangular 
sort of plastron thing in the dead center of the chest, with the gown 
gathered onto it, and ties that wrapped from the plastron and tied at the 
waist, hanging down a bit from the level of the bottom of the plastron in 
front.  Great if you're built like Kate Moss.  I was built like Mae West. 
 The dress, with its lovely quiana drape, made me look like a pregnant Mae 
West.

I recall quiana's two most "endearing" qualities - it generated more 
electricity than the Hoover Dam, (making me look like Mae West in a wet 
dress) and it was slick as oiled glass.  I played bassoon and had all sorts 
of fun trying to keep my instrument's seat strap from sliding out from 
under me when wearing that dress and sitting on a plastic chair.

Jennifer Carlson
Jcarlson@firstchurchtulsa.org


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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Qiana was a form of tri-lobal nylon, introduced by Dupont in the early '70s, 
that was supposed to be the next best thing to silk.  Both woven and knitted 
fabrics were made out of it.  The jersey was especially popular for 
bridesmaid's dresses and disco shirts.  I'm not sure why it was discontinued, 
but evidently it did not live up to expectations.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 14:09:33 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:12:08 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove?
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
<SNIP>
>> As far as I can tell this addition of a loop over the third finger from
>>a point
>> on the sleeve is a figment of someone's imagination from the 19th and 20th
>> centuries.  I have yet to see any evidence for this in "primary" or
>>"secondary"
>> sources.  Not that I have seen everything, I haven't.  But if I were
>>your friend
>> I would seriously consider not putting something referring to this in
>>her paper
>> at all.  If she *does* have documentation for such a thing, like a
>>picture, I
>> want that info!  A very sexy look, but not period that I have seen.  And
>>this is
>> my century of research.  The long sleeves that come down to the knuckles
>>with no
>> points are simply called sleeves.
>>
>> > I tried looking it up under gloves and sleeves in several of my costume
>> > dictionaries but to no avail.  Any help would be gratefully accepted.
>>Also,
>> > if you have the time period it was first popular in, that would be great
>> > too.....
>>
>> The fact that it isn't in any of these references really brings home the
>>fact
>> that it isn't there.  She should drop this from her paper.
>>
>> FWIW,  Merouda
>>
So then the answer is 19/20 Century, right? Yes, that's the answer.

This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
tiring.

We tend to go through cycles regarding SCA period vs. costume list.  We've
hit the top of this cycle.  Please remember that many of us don't care
about SCA.  Laurels and such don't have a huge place on this list.  There
are other sites for SCA.

I don't mean for this to be a flame, really.  If I flamed you, you'd know.
It's just difficult when so many of us are interested in historical periods
from across eras as wide as ancient Egypt headdresses to post-war Dior
dresses and we keep hearing, "It's not period."  Please be more aware of
which list you're writing on.

Sincerely and not angry, just tired.
LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 14:13:22 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:22:49 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove?
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

For what it's worth, the original question was also posted on the SCA garb list. I believe
that is why it was assumed that the subject was concerned with SCA period.

Not flaming either,
--Jessica

> So then the answer is 19/20 Century, right? Yes, that's the answer.
> 
> This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
> doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
> month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
> tiring.
> 
> We tend to go through cycles regarding SCA period vs. costume list.  We've
> hit the top of this cycle.  Please remember that many of us don't care
> about SCA.  Laurels and such don't have a huge place on this list.  There
> are other sites for SCA.
> 
> I don't mean for this to be a flame, really.  If I flamed you, you'd know.
> It's just difficult when so many of us are interested in historical periods
> from across eras as wide as ancient Egypt headdresses to post-war Dior
> dresses and we keep hearing, "It's not period."  Please be more aware of
> which list you're writing on.
> 
> Sincerely and not angry, just tired.
> LynnD
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 14:28:28 1999
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From: "Graham, Stuart" <SGraham@glhec.org>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: ANST - 12th Century English Garbing Question
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 13:38:20 -0500 
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-Poster: "Graham, Stuart" <SGraham@glhec.org>

	Thought someone around here might be able to help this person

	Hirum

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Timothy Rayburn [SMTP:timothy_of_glastonbury@yahoo.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:23 PM
> To:	ansteorra@Ansteorra.ORG
> Subject:	ANST - 12th Century English Garbing Question
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> In my ever expanding interest to better my garbing, I'm looking for
> someone
> with real knowledge (as oppsed to my few refrence books) on the matter of
> 12th Century Garb, specifically very late 12th Century in England (reign
> of
> Richard/early John).
> 
> If there is someone out there willing to swap a few emails with me about
> this, I'd appreciate.  Please drop me a line privately at
> timothy@black-star.org and we can chat, I don't see a real need to tie up
> the
> list with my silly questions about buttons, trim and hose. :)
> 
> Ld. Timothy of Glastonbury
> Now of Bjornsburg
> ==========================================================================
> ==
> Go to http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html to perform mailing list tasks.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 14:28:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 13:38:46 -0500
From: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC@centum.utulsa.edu>
To: H-COSTUME@indra.com
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-Poster: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC@centum.utulsa.edu>

  <Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>>
  >so much for my excitement in finding a chart.....next time I'll be
  >quiet.  again, my apologies
  
  Ma'am, I don't think that anyone was criticizing you for the information
  you posted.  They were pointing out that the chart you presented, where 
  ever it came from, did not match the facts as they knew them.  In this
  case, I believe that at least some of the numbers are no longer set to 
  any particular standards, although at one time they were.
  
  Marc
  lib_imc@centum.utulsa.edu
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>




> So then the answer is 19/20 Century, right? Yes, that's the answer.
> 
> This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
> doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
> month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
> tiring.

with all due respect, I believe she went to the only source she had
personally availed to her for the quickest answer.  Just becasue an
SCA-an comes back with an answer, does not mean its all inclusive,
because as we all kno, the SCA is "not what the middle ages was, but
what it was supposed to be"  there are the costume police in ANY group,
some hold closer to what was done in "the day" than do others, but  I
would be appreciative of information from what ever source.  

For some reason, because an SCA'an came back with the answer first, it
seems to have raised someone's ire abit.  

it is ALL history, whether it wavers on the point of fantasy or not
sometimes is a question of interpretation, really.  
> 
> We tend to go through cycles regarding SCA period vs. costume list.  We've
> hit the top of this cycle.  Please remember that many of us don't care
> about SCA.  Laurels and such don't have a huge place on this list.  There
> are other sites for SCA.

Comments such as this only fan the "SCA period vs Costume List" IMHO  I
would hate to see someone think better of posting because it may be
interpreted as an SCA question, whether historical or not.  when one
person on this list may be able to help them.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

Penny, there was no budget for the costumes in the new star wars.  Yes, no 
budget!  Which means, she had unlimited funds.  Don't know the final book 
keeping on it, but since she has been speaking at several fashion schools 
about the costumes, that should come up unless she was instructed for it not 
to be answered.  Do know that one of the coat fabrics was $500.00 a yard and 
they bought 20 yards. 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove or what?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:40:59 +0100
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-Poster: "dave;editors(Heritage Matters)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

> This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
> doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
> month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
> tiring.
>
> We tend to go through cycles regarding SCA period vs. costume list.  We've
> hit the top of this cycle.  Please remember that many of us don't care
> about SCA.  Laurels and such don't have a huge place on this list.  There
> are other sites for SCA.
>
And then there are others of us who must admit be completly befuddled about
what SCA is , but have just been too reticent about asking in case it made
us seem foolish. Is this something to do with people having names like they
were characters in a book about orcs and things; or is it just coincidence
that so many people have "the" as a middle name.
Also there seems to be alot of people preparing papers and exams; is this
because costume is on the curriculum at some schools or is it  a college
subject.
A totally confused Brit
Dave

L.D.Mundy (editorial)
Please Note: All Words to Wise systems including publications :. Heritage
Matters, Wise Matters and The Whistle will be down from 7th May to 10th May
to allow for the installation of a new server. Websites on outside ISPs will
not be effected.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 14:47:37 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> So then the answer is 19/20 Century, right? Yes, that's the answer.

No, that's not the answer.  My answer was that it was a figment of the
imagination of the 19/20 centuries.  Many drawings from that time depicting
medieval clothing show the sleeve the poster was asking about.  Was the sleeve
actually worn in the time that was depicted by the drawings from the 19/20
century?  No.

> This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
> doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
> month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
> tiring.

As I said in the post, it was cross posted to SCA Garb.  I for one get a little
tired of folks who assume that folks in the SCA are inconsiderate and don't think
of others.  We are, like you, human.  We, like you, make errors.  In this case
you've jumped the gun.   Why all the ugly talk and insinuated threats?  Just
because we have lately been doing some discussing about pre-1600 costuming
doesn't mean the list has become SCA.  There have been many posts about 1800-1950
costuming such as corseting, civil war, and victorian I currently am not
interested in.  I just choose to delete them.  I don't complain to the list that
they're not talking about what *I* want to talk about.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> And then there are others of us who must admit be completly befuddled about
> what SCA is , but have just been too reticent about asking in case it made
> us seem foolish. Is this something to do with people having names like they
> were characters in a book about orcs and things; or is it just coincidence
> that so many people have "the" as a middle name.

I will answer this honestly because I think it an honest question.  The last
sentence kind of bothers me, but I'll explain that too.  The SCA "recreates the
middle ages as they should have been".  It is a non-profit group and the purpose
is to learn.  I admit some folks join because they like picking up sexual
partners and getting drunk in costume.  But many many of us are serious
scholars.  And the rest fall somewhere in between those two polarities.  The
purpose though is to try and find out what it was like.  How did they do this?
that?  Is this what it felt to be in armor?  To be hit with a sword?  To sew a
fine seam?  To eat frumenty?  And to forget the heads on pikes bit.

To answer your question about SCA names.  It depends on the name.  In my case,
"the True" is from Shakespeare's Hamlet, "And this above all, to thine own self
be true".  Most people in the SCA do not have names with "the" in them.  Some
do, yes, but most don't.  I will not go into how I got my name as it is highly
personal to me and not for a public list, but I can say that the name that is
registerable is Merouda of Bornover, no "the True".  If you want to register
your name in the SCA rolls, the name parts must be documentable for instance,
John of Trowbridge.  You have to be able to document John as a name and
Trowbridge as a town.  Separately.  If you sent documentation that a man named
John Trowbridge exited "in period" you will be denied.  You can not take the
name of real person who existed in those times.  In the early days of the SCA
things weren't so rigid, so you find a lot of oldtimers with names like
Shadowfox.  But these days, that's pretty darned rare.



> Also there seems to be alot of people preparing papers and exams; is this
> because costume is on the curriculum at some schools or is it  a college
> subject.

Lots of folks on the list do research.  SCA, Schools of Drama, in the case of
Albert Cat, movie costuming.  Some compete for themselves, for school exams, for
lots of reasons.  Costuming is certainly on the curriculum here at the
University of Washington.  You can get a degree in it.  I myself do research for
the purpose of competing against myself and others in the SCA.  But the
requirements, I have found are quite stringent as some schools.

And that's enough out of me.  I will be glad however, to answer any more
questions *OFF* the Historical Costuming list.  No question is stupid in my
opinion.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Mela,

What a dream project -- quality work with the parameter to "do it right". 
Hopefully, they had all the resources line up, both time and money.

My husband is a project director, different medium than costume, and he often 
tells his customers: You can have it good, or you can have it cheap, or you 
can have it fast. But you can only have 2 of the 3. Try the variables, it 
really works. 

Sally Queen
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
Calendar 2000:Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries available June 1, 1999 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 15:34:34 1999
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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove or what?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:39:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

Well said, Merouda. I myself am confused as I am on both lists (SCA-garb and
this one) and did not see the original post which prompted this discussion.

~Meryld Godewyn of Kent
modernly known as Gail Dausener-Smith
Player in the SCA and not a Scholar (ah, maybe someday)

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Merouda the True of Bornover
Sent: Thursday, 06 May, 1999 12:15
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove or what?



-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> And then there are others of us who must admit be completly befuddled
about
> what SCA is , but have just been too reticent about asking in case it made
> us seem foolish. Is this something to do with people having names like
they
> were characters in a book about orcs and things; or is it just coincidence
> that so many people have "the" as a middle name.

I will answer this honestly because I think it an honest question.  The last
sentence kind of bothers me, but I'll explain that too.  The SCA "recreates
the
middle ages as they should have been".  It is a non-profit group and the
purpose
is to learn.  I admit some folks join because they like picking up sexual
partners and getting drunk in costume.  But many many of us are serious
scholars.  And the rest fall somewhere in between those two polarities.  The
purpose though is to try and find out what it was like.  How did they do
this?
that?  Is this what it felt to be in armor?  To be hit with a sword?  To sew
a
fine seam?  To eat frumenty?  And to forget the heads on pikes bit.

To answer your question about SCA names.  It depends on the name.  In my
case,
"the True" is from Shakespeare's Hamlet, "And this above all, to thine own
self
be true".  Most people in the SCA do not have names with "the" in them.
Some
do, yes, but most don't.  I will not go into how I got my name as it is
highly
personal to me and not for a public list, but I can say that the name that
is
registerable is Merouda of Bornover, no "the True".  If you want to register
your name in the SCA rolls, the name parts must be documentable for
instance,
John of Trowbridge.  You have to be able to document John as a name and
Trowbridge as a town.  Separately.  If you sent documentation that a man
named
John Trowbridge exited "in period" you will be denied.  You can not take the
name of real person who existed in those times.  In the early days of the
SCA
things weren't so rigid, so you find a lot of oldtimers with names like
Shadowfox.  But these days, that's pretty darned rare.



> Also there seems to be alot of people preparing papers and exams; is this
> because costume is on the curriculum at some schools or is it  a college
> subject.

Lots of folks on the list do research.  SCA, Schools of Drama, in the case
of
Albert Cat, movie costuming.  Some compete for themselves, for school exams,
for
lots of reasons.  Costuming is certainly on the curriculum here at the
University of Washington.  You can get a degree in it.  I myself do research
for
the purpose of competing against myself and others in the SCA.  But the
requirements, I have found are quite stringent as some schools.

And that's enough out of me.  I will be glad however, to answer any more
questions *OFF* the Historical Costuming list.  No question is stupid in my
opinion.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 15:41:04 1999
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From: "EPPERSON, SHERYL" <EPPERSOS@oge.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: sleeve or glove?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:49:28 -0500 
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-Poster: "EPPERSON, SHERYL" <EPPERSOS@oge.com>

I still had this copy of the original question in my files.

>From the signature, the person appears to be in the SCA, so the SCA
oriented answer was appropriate.

I am also in the SCA, but enjoy the discussions of Victorian, Edwardian,
etc. costuming on this list as well.

H.L. Annabelle Fitzsimmons
Mundanely Known As Sheryl Epperson

-----Original Message-----
From: Brandy Dickson [mailto:query@mindless.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 11:17 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
Subject: H-COST: sleeve or glove?



-Poster: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>

Greetings everyone!

I am helping a friend that is doing a paper for women's studies and she
is
wanting to know what the term is for a certain piece of clothing.

You know the sleeves that are tight fitting right down to the wrist?
and
sometimes you see them extended right down onto the hand and come to a
point
over the third knuckle. Sometimes the point has a string that loops
around
the third finger.  Does anyone know what that hand extension is called?
I
tried looking it up under gloves and sleeves in several of my costume
dictionaries but to no avail.  Any help would be gratefully accepted.
Also,
if you have the time period it was first popular in, that would be great
too.....

Thanks in advance!

Desamona
Chatelaine of Hartwood
m.k.a  Brandy Dickson

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From: "dave;editors(Heritage Matters)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000a01be97f8$70466de0$0100a8c0@wingate>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove or what thanks?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:17:20 +0100
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-Poster: "dave;editors(Heritage Matters)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 Thanks to all that have helped lift the wool from my eyes re SCA, I found
it all very interesting and sense that there might be an article in it.
I am about to be switched off while the boffins meddle with the machinery ,
but as soon as I can perhaps  will follow this up .
Thanks again
Dave
LDMundy(editorial)
Please Note: All Words to Wise systems including publications :. Heritage
Matters, Wise Matters and The Whistle will be down from 7th May to 10th May
to allow for the insatalltion of a new server. Websites on outside ISPs will
not be effected.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 16:55:50 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove?
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:06:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>No, that's not the answer.  My answer was that it was a figment of the
>imagination of the 19/20 centuries.  Many drawings from that time depicting
>medieval clothing show the sleeve the poster was asking about.  Was the
sleeve
>actually worn in the time that was depicted by the drawings from the 19/20
>century?  No.


I'm guessing that the quibble was in the use of the term "it's not period."
I think, for instance, that I've spotted those finger-extension thingies on
some vintage gowns ( I couldn't give you a period, but they seem to go with
the "art deco" look) and of course, on some modern bridal gowns.  So they're
definitely "period" for those periods, just not for the 14th century.
"Period" is a term, IMO, that absolutely *must* be followed by an
explanation:  "That's not period for the 14th century."  "That's not period
for Victorian."  I don't like the use of "period" as an adjective that
much--I'd much prefer "historically accurate"--but many people understand
its usage this way, so I'm not going to complain about it :-)

Susan Carroll-Clark

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 17:11:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 14:21:33 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I'm guessing that the quibble was in the use of the term "it's not period."

The term was never used by me.  I never say that.  :)  The quibble was that I
supposedly *assumed* the question was SCA period years.  The truth was I *knew*
the question was about SCA period year because the question was posted to two
lists, sca-garb being one of them.  The one that prompted my answer.  Which I
shared with both lists.

> I think, for instance, that I've spotted those finger-extension thingies on
> some vintage gowns ( I couldn't give you a period, but they seem to go with
> the "art deco" look) and of course, on some modern bridal gowns.  So they're
> definitely "period" for those periods, just not for the 14th century.

Exactly.  I too think I saw something pretty close in Edwardian days but
couldn't site where.

> "Period" is a term, IMO, that absolutely *must* be followed by an
> explanation:  "That's not period for the 14th century."

Exactly.  The problem is, no one said "It's not period".

C~
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 18:08:58 1999
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 99-05-06 14:24:31 EDT, Jessica Wilbur" 
<jessica@pop.net>writes:

<< Greetings, everyone,
 
 I happen to be friends with the owner of Historically Yours, formerly 
Costume Connection, 
 which produces Period Patterns. Last time I heard, they did not have the 
rights to make 
 changes to the patterns, but that situation may have changed. I will ask 
Steve about that, 
 and also find out if there is a catalog in print right now. Unfortunately 
their Web site has 
 been down for some time now and I don't know when it's going to be back up.
 
 - --Jessica >>

Their website is apparently down permanently.  The text I saw when I hit it a 
few weeks ago said they'd decided to close the web business.... and for the 
last week or so, you only get a 404 ("page not found") when you try the web 
addy.

~Morghana
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

> Unfortunately 
> their Web site has 
>  been down for some time now and I don't know when it's going to be back up.
>  
>  - --Jessica >>
> 
> Their website is apparently down permanently.  The text I saw when I hit it a 
> few weeks ago said they'd decided to close the web business.... and for the 
> last week or so, you only get a 404 ("page not found") when you try the web 
> addy.
> 
> ~Morghana

That's interesting... I get a Netscape error which says there is no DNS entry. I've been 
getting that for months now, so I'm surprised you got any text message at all. I sent email 
to Steve with the questions that were posted on the list. I'll post any reply he sends me...

--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 18:50:51 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>



I am hoping someone out there can point me to a source. I am looking for
the braid used on 1940's military (officers) jackets.  It's olive green,
and what I took off the original, appears to be a rayon blend, because
it has somewhat of a shine to it, but then again, I'm not an expert on
the contents of braids and passimentaries (I am sure I spelled THAT
wrong)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 20:41:29 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Robe Pattern
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:55:22 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Is there a Simplicity pattern or any other pattern readily available to
civilians that would work for a Jedi robe?

Thanks in advance,

Amanda Reeves


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 21:07:21 1999
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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Simplicity Robe Pattern
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:16:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

Have you seen the Butterick Pattern 5174 that was put out in '97? From the
look of it any bathrobe pattern cut to crotch length would do. Add some
breeches, knee length boots, a belt and light saber and there you are!
~G

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Amanda Reeves
Sent: Thursday, 06 May, 1999 17:55
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Robe Pattern



-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Is there a Simplicity pattern or any other pattern readily available to
civilians that would work for a Jedi robe?

Thanks in advance,

Amanda Reeves


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 21:43:56 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Robe Pattern
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:55:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

LOL, this reminds me of last summer when I went to the Blockerbuster's
Legend tour with the costumes from major films.  They had a uniform from one
of the Star Trek movies. It was for one of the principle characters.  I just
laughed when I saw it... looked like a short bathrobe and pajamas to me!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

>Have you seen the Butterick Pattern 5174 that was put out in '97? From the
>look of it any bathrobe pattern cut to crotch length would do. Add some
>breeches, knee length boots, a belt and light saber and there you are!
>~G
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of Amanda Reeves
>Sent: Thursday, 06 May, 1999 17:55
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Robe Pattern
>
>
>
>-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
>Is there a Simplicity pattern or any other pattern readily available to
>civilians that would work for a Jedi robe?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Amanda Reeves
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May  6 22:58:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 19:44:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 05:06 PM 5/6/99. "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net> wrote:
>"Period" is a term, IMO, that absolutely *must* be followed by an
>explanation:  "That's not period for the 14th century."  "That's not period
>for Victorian."  I don't like the use of "period" as an adjective that
>much--I'd much prefer "historically accurate"--but many people understand
>its usage this way, so I'm not going to complain about it :-)
      Well said.  I have become guilty of overusing 'period' to mean
Medieval.  Thank you for the reminder.  It is a timely one.
      The original post, I note, having reread it, though posted both to
the H-Costume and SCA-Garb lists did not specify a time frame, only asking
for the term for the piece that fit over the hand and looped about the
fingers.  I think that since it appeared on both lists, it was reasonable
for Merouda to conclude that the friend who was writing the paper for
women's studies was considering this extention something used in the
Medieval period.  Therefore, it was not unreasonable to post the response
she did.  
       However, I do agree that it makes little sense to write of Laurels
and use other SCA-specific jargon on the H-Costume list.  
       We can all learn from one another, regardless which our own favorite
historical periods may be.  I enjoy it all, too, and thank you all for
teaching me so much.
Carol J. Bell Cannon 
aka: Gra/inne ingen Domnaill Ilda/naig [in the SCA] 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 01:20:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 01:24:24 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I've often seen this style on dance costumes, especially ball-room. 
Could be used in those traditional classic ballets, like "Sleeping
Beauty".  Perhaps it originated long ago in this area of costuming.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 01:38:00 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 01:22:34 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sleeve or glove?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>You know the sleeves that are tight fitting right down to the wrist?  and
>sometimes you see them extended right down onto the hand and come to a point
>over the third knuckle. Sometimes the point has a string that loops around
>the third finger.  Does anyone know what that hand extension is called?  

I have no idea of what it is called but, I have seen only ONE example, as
early as 1618, of the point over the hand.  See pg. 6 of Arnold's "Patterns
of Fashion."  However, the sleeve has a large puff at the top and then cuts
in to form a normal sleeve.  There doesn't appear to be any finger loop
with this.   It sounds like it would have been a scholar's gown but,
doesn't really say for sure.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 02:15:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 02:25:07 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: SHOE sizes
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>UK Shoe Size  European   US Female  US Male
    F4         37          5.5       -
     F5        38           6.5      -
     F6        39.5         7.5      -
     F7        40.5         8.5     7.5
     F8        42           9.5    
8.5                                            
     M8        42.5          -      9
     M9        43            -      10
    M10        44.5          -      11
    M11        45.5          -      12
        

Sorry you've taken flak on this but, I'm Not sure on the accuracy of this
I'm a size 39 continental, 5,5 UK, but all US shoes that fit me have been
size 8.5. No these have been sports ones so whether they are all in US mens
I don't know.

Try http://www.teva.com/sizing.cfm they have a good size chart

Mel      
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 02:48:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 02:57:07 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shoe Sizes
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

> I believe that at least some of the numbers are no longer set to 
  any particular standards, although at one time they were.
  

As far as I'm aware UK & Continental sizes are set the Continental being
known as the Paris Point System. Are you planning to order from a company ?
If so they will usually tell you if you measure your foot, big toe to heel
generally diaoganally or send a tracing.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 08:18:13 1999
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:29:01 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns?!?!?
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-Poster: Merlyncc@aol.com

In a message dated 5/6/99 9:15:07 AM Central Daylight Time, smstrss@yahoo.com 
writes:

> Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>

>  Speaking of Period Patterns/Med. Misc., does anyone
>  have contact info for them, to possibly get a catalog?
>  I can't find them anywhere around here (NE Kansas)!
  
We carry Period Patterns.  We also have a pattern catalog that includes 
Period Patterns, Costume Connection patterns and Folkwear patterns.  Just 
e-mail me with name and address, or send a request to:

Merlyn Custom Costuming
15330 LBJ Fwy, Suite 202
Mesquite, TX 75150

Priscilla Schmitz
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 09:32:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 09:40:37 -0400
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

thank u

Melanie Wilson wrote:

> Sorry you've taken flak on this but, I'm Not sure on the accuracy of this
> I'm a size 39 continental, 5,5 UK, but all US shoes that fit me have been
> size 8.5. No these have been sports ones so whether they are all in US mens
> I don't know.
> 
> Try http://www.teva.com/sizing.cfm they have a good size chart
>
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:58:33 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #300
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com


In a message dated 5/6/99 6:21:22 PM, Morghana@AOL.COM writes:

<<
 I happen to be friends with the owner of Historically Yours, formerly 
Costume Connection, 
 which produces Period Patterns. Last time I heard, they did not have the 
rights to make 
 changes to the patterns, but that situation may have changed. I will ask 
Steve about that, 
 and also find out if there is a catalog in print right now. Unfortunately 
their Web site has 
 been down for some time now and I don't know when it's going to be back up.
 
 - --Jessica >>

Their website is apparently down permanently.  The text I saw when I hit it a 
few weeks ago said they'd decided to close the web business.... and for the 
last week or so, you only get a 404 ("page not found") when you try the web 
addy.

~Morghana>>

Ummm....actually, no.  I asked about the website when I bought my pattern.  
Apparently they had some sort of computer/ISP related problem, which is going 
to be remedied.  So, while the historically-yours.com site is presently down 
and has been that way for a few months, they have every intention of bringing 
it back online.  Just keep poking the site every few weeks. :-)

Jen/Nora
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 10:02:11 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
Subject: H-COST: 60's/70's costuming
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-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>

Hello,  

As we introduce ourselves, my name is Bernice,  and my husband Wayne, run a
Vintage Clothing store in Massachusetts...

We have noticed not much is said about Authentic period clothing.  We have
a request, and forgive us if this is out of topic for this group, not sure.

We are downsizing our inventory....60/70's......does anyone use these for
costuming?  or suggestions?

We thank you in advance for your kindness and help?

Wayne & Bernice Richard
Reflections in Vintage Clothing

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 10:01:23 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's costuming
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>


Where?!?!?!?!  I'm in Massachusetts... let me know where you... I'd love to
find a vintage store near me!!!

Sarah
toneys@rentgrow.com


>
>-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
>
>Hello,
>
>As we introduce ourselves, my name is Bernice,  and my husband Wayne, run a
>Vintage Clothing store in Massachusetts...
>
>We have noticed not much is said about Authentic period clothing.  We have
>a request, and forgive us if this is out of topic for this group, not sure.
>
>We are downsizing our inventory....60/70's......does anyone use these for
>costuming?  or suggestions?
>
>We thank you in advance for your kindness and help?
>
>Wayne & Bernice Richard
>Reflections in Vintage Clothing
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 10:09:24 1999
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

There is a vintage clothing list, which is why stuff from the last
hundred years doesn't get discussed much on this list. However, I do
have guild members who like the 60s-70s, which I don't consider
historical, because that would make me historical!If not hysterical.
Sorry. Do you sell by mail order, do you have a catalog or web site?
Carol Mitchell Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 10:18:49 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

lol! the 60's wouldn't apply alot to me, but the 70's?  eeps!  I HAD
that macrame' fringe vest!  I WORE that "peasant" blouse....I HAD
AUTHENTIC puka shells!  AND that bad...BLUE FROST EYE SHADOW then the
LIGHT PINK FROST lipstick! oh yes...and EARTH SHOES! <rant on> I would
have KILLED for long straight hair...but NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....red
hair...red natural wavy hair. (that my mom - much to my chagrin, kept
SHORT) >:o\ <rant off>

  now..to me, they're RETRO...anything PRIOR to 1950 is vintage. and
anything PRIOR to 1930 is ANTIQUE....:)  that's just "my" take on it...

Carol Mitchell wrote:
> 
> -Poster: lynnx@mc.net
> 
> There is a vintage clothing list, which is why stuff from the last
> hundred years doesn't get discussed much on this list. However, I do
> have guild members who like the 60s-70s, which I don't consider
> historical, because that would make me historical!If not hysterical.
> Sorry. Do you sell by mail order, do you have a catalog or web site?
>  Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 10:25:59 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!

Anah wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> 
> lol! the 60's wouldn't apply alot to me, but the 70's?  eeps!  I HAD
> that macrame' fringe vest!  I WORE that "peasant" blouse....I HAD
> AUTHENTIC puka shells!  AND that bad...BLUE FROST EYE SHADOW then the
> LIGHT PINK FROST lipstick! oh yes...and EARTH SHOES! <rant on> I would
> have KILLED for long straight hair...but NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....red
> hair...red natural wavy hair. (that my mom - much to my chagrin, kept
> SHORT) >:o\ <rant off>
> 
>   now..to me, they're RETRO...anything PRIOR to 1950 is vintage. and
> anything PRIOR to 1930 is ANTIQUE....:)  that's just "my" take on it...
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 11:07:19 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Uh-oh . . . *Gulp* . . . I still have my toe socks!

> 
> -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> 
> oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
> 
> Anah wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> > 
> > lol! the 60's wouldn't apply alot to me, but the 70's?  eeps!  I HAD
> > that macrame' fringe vest!  I WORE that "peasant" blouse....I HAD
> > AUTHENTIC puka shells!  AND that bad...BLUE FROST EYE SHADOW then the
> > LIGHT PINK FROST lipstick! oh yes...and EARTH SHOES! <rant on> I would
> > have KILLED for long straight hair...but NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....red
> > hair...red natural wavy hair. (that my mom - much to my chagrin, kept
> > SHORT) >:o\ <rant off>
> > 
> >   now..to me, they're RETRO...anything PRIOR to 1950 is vintage. and
> > anything PRIOR to 1930 is ANTIQUE....:)  that's just "my" take on it...
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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-Poster: Simone89@aol.com

In a message dated 5/7/99 10:38:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
anah@tymeportal.com writes:

<< 
 -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
 
 oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
 
 Anah wrote:
 >  >>
I used to love my TOE SOCKS..... My favorite pair were Red and White Stripes 
American Flags with blue toes.

Sarah M.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 11:51:52 1999
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-Poster: Susan Rachel <scooter@texas.net>



Simone89@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Simone89@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/7/99 10:38:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> anah@tymeportal.com writes:
>
> <<
>  -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>  oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
>
>  Anah wrote:
>  >  >>
> I used to love my TOE SOCKS..... My favorite pair were Red and White Stripes
> American Flags with blue toes.
>
> Sarah M.

I LOVED toe socks!!!  I saw a pair in Target the other day and had to restrain
myself from buying and wearing them proudly!!

Susan

>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:10:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>


So, here's a question... where does this put me?  I mean, I was a kid (like
3 or 4 ) when they were "popular" and I still have mine... granted, I still
wear the same size I did when I was 5, but they're my favorites...  I even
have a pair with fuzzy toes! ;-)

Sarah


>>  oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
>>
>>  Anah wrote:
>>  >  >>
>> I used to love my TOE SOCKS..... My favorite pair were Red and White
Stripes
>> American Flags with blue toes.
>>
>> Sarah M.
>
>I LOVED toe socks!!!  I saw a pair in Target the other day and had to
restrain
>myself from buying and wearing them proudly!!
>
>Susan
>
>>
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: vintage clothing
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:10:13 -0700 
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-Poster: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>


	I had those exact same socks!!  I wore them with my red, white and
blue high heeled tennis shoes.

	-Jill


	-Poster: Simone89@aol.com

	I used to love my TOE SOCKS..... My favorite pair were Red and White
Stripes 
	American Flags with blue toes.

	Sarah M.
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 5/7/99 9:38:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
anah@tymeportal.com writes:

<< oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!! >>
Now I liked toe socks.  Actually I wish I could find some.  Not the rainbow 
striped ones I had as a kid though.  Maybe a nice soft blue or white though 
or even black.
I grew up in central Illinois, always behind the times a bit, but I remember 
a few years in the 70's (73-76 maybe) where we wore long knit dresses to 
Church on Sunday morning.  I loved those dresses.  No gloves though but 
little purses.
Kelly Albrecht
m311@aol.com
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 5/7/99 11:08:29 AM EST, toneys@rentgrow.com writes:

> >>  oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
>  >>


Okay, okay, I know I'm showing my age with this (or lack thereof), but as I'm 
not real big in retro clothing...what are toe socks?

-Alison (who would rather be barefoot) Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Canton, Ohio
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 15:56:06 1999
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From: "Sterling Ranne" <sranne@hydroseal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "Sterling Ranne" <sranne@hydroseal.com>

> > >>  oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!
> 
> Okay, okay, I know I'm showing my age with this (or lack thereof), but as
I'm 
> not real big in retro clothing...what are toe socks?

Socks are to mittens as Toe Socks are to gloves.

Sterling
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 16:09:41 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> > Okay, okay, I know I'm showing my age with this (or lack thereof), but
as
> I'm 
> > not real big in retro clothing...what are toe socks?
> 
> Socks are to mittens as Toe Socks are to gloves.
> 
> Sterling

Each toe, with it's own little compartment, keeps pretty snug. (Growing up
in the midwest, this was important!) All the toe socks I've ever seen have
come in pretty wild colors, though I wouldn't mind a set in a solid blue. 

On a historic note, does anyone know of such compartmentalized undergarments
being worn pre-1960's? In colder lands, I would assume this might be a good
idea.

On a non-historic note, cats think toe socks are THE ENEMY, and must be
slain at once!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 15:23:08 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Doris J. Nash" <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Whole Costumer's Catalog--update?
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-Poster: "Doris J. Nash" <djnash@iastate.edu>

Hello All!

Could someone post the most recent info for ordering The Whole Costumer's
Catalog?  I just tried the phone # I had, and got a "Call cannot be
completed as dialed" message.  Please help!

Thanks,
Doris
================
Doris Nash    <djnash@iastate.edu>
515-294-8863
Costume Shop Supervisor, Iowa State University
"...with ruffs and cuffs, and farthingales and things."  
--Shakespeare, The Taming of the Shrew

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From: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What are Toe-socks--a quick reply
Date: 	Fri, 7 May 1999 16:22:37 -0400
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-Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>

Toe socks are socks with little individual compartments for each toe.  Kind
of like gloves are to mittens, except that mittens (unlike socks) have a
separate compartment for the largest digit.

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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

>On a non-historic note, cats think toe socks are THE ENEMY, and must be
>slain at once!

i figured out why, though... one day, my kitten (well, he's 2, but he'll
always be a kitten) decided they were fun... then promptly got his paw stuck
in one of the toes... yes, he reached all the way down into the sock and
couldn't get it out... it was amusing... well, he didn't think so. ;-)


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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 16:34:15 -0400
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>



AliaClaire@aol.com wrote:

> Okay, okay, I know I'm showing my age with this (or lack thereof), but as I'm
> not real big in retro clothing...what are toe socks?

(like gloves for the feet)  :)  I thot they rocked!I'd LOVE to find some
for my neices and nephews it'd be a hoot!
and, alison, I PREFER to go barefoot also.  even walking in the gravel. 
I don't mind it much - weird, huh?  them durn COUNTRY GENES..lol

> 
> -Alison (who would rather be barefoot) Stacy
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From: starsinger@webtv.net (theresa sorrell)
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 16:15:54 -0600 (MDT)
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Toe Socks
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-Poster: starsinger@webtv.net (theresa sorrell)

The latest sock book put out by Knitters magazine with their contest
winners has a pattern for toe socks.  The 'This Little Piggy'.  With pig
motifs and all.  I also have a pattern somewhere in my collection of
sock patterns for a pattern from that time period.  I would guess that
the seventies has made a comeback?

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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 18:18:36 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
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-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>



WOW....I never expected to see such a great bunch of fun people, although I
do apologize this not being a historical topic....but lets face it this is
"histerical" ....Toe Socks....

Let me add, I am located in Gardner, MA North Central about 20 minutes from
the New Hampshire border.....

I agree 60's/70's is not vintage, and why did I allow it to come into my
store is beyond me.....Costume for sure....again I apologize this not being
to historical....

Bernice

PS.....love reading the post and thank you for making me feel welcomed....

I do have a web site however with changes in the store to downsize I need
to do changes on this site...although I sell on ebay ....look me up through
my email address....again thank you all, you were extremely helpful 

http://www.tiac.net/users/wer/

Reflections in Vintage Clothing

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 18:15:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 15:24:03 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I agree 60's/70's is not vintage, and why did I allow it to come into my
> store is beyond me.....Costume for sure....again I apologize this not being
> to historical....

Since it's not current, it *is* historical (well it's current but only because
it's retro).  *G*  The list could easily be called Historical Clothing but then
it wouldn't include Accessories and Shoes and and and....  Doesn't have to be
costume in the modern sense of the word.  You're right on topic.  :)  IMHO

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: H-COST:  I just have to brag...
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I went to a garage sale today, given by a woman who used to (a) run a sewing
school and (b) make Victorian costumes.

  I got:  A bound set of Godey's for the year 1850 (missing the color
plates, unfortunately, but SIGNED by Sara Hale!)  two framed, handcolored
1860's fashion plates, the first 12 issues of Threads,  Viking walking foot,
a pearls and piping foot, and a ribbon foot,  a copy of Calico Chronicle,
two other sewing books, a 1910 era filligree and green rhinestone fleur de
lis shaped belt buckle, a bag of 30 pewter buttons, a Perfect Pleater,  the
yoke from a 1920's dress, black chiffon almost solidly covered in black
rocaillles with 3 yards of matching fringe,  2 yards of machine eyelet
embroidered linen,  12 large wooden spools of silk thread, a bag of rayon
machine embroidery thread, and a lot of  trim and assorted sewing tools.  

It doesn't have any particular relevance to this list, (unless you live
within driving distance of Placerville, CA and want to go there tommorow)
but I had to TELL someone, and I knew you all would understand just how
happy I am!

Margo Anderson
(dancing on air)

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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 19:38:40 -0400
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From: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: H-Costume general inquiry
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

It just occurred to me - 
Does anyone know Lucy Lee Reuther?  She was the head costumer for the
Otterbein College theater when I was a student there, and a powerful
influence on my work.  At that time she was married to Robert Fox, a
techie.  I would love to contact her, if anyone knows of her.

Thanks! <hoping>

Marsha
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 19:11:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>


Target just re-released the Toe Socks recently.... I just bought 3 pair.
:-)
Sarahj

-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
Uh-oh . . . *Gulp* . . . I still have my toe socks!

> -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> oh, and I forgot...TOE SOCKS!!!

**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**

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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 09:07:21 -0700
From: Agnes Lehto <SHALAZAR@bc.sympatico.ca>
Organization: Shalazar Creations
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-Poster: Agnes Lehto <SHALAZAR@bc.sympatico.ca>



StitchWitch wrote:

> -Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>
> Uh-oh . . . *Gulp* . . . I still have my toe socks!

Me too  PLUS all the other stuff and a  pair of clogs with roller skates which
dropped out of the sole.  Does that make us retro or just ancient?

Nan



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 20:57:59 1999
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From: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>


<Each toe, with it's own little compartment, keeps pretty snug. (Growing up
<in the midwest, this was important!) All the toe socks I've ever seen have
<come in pretty wild colors, though I wouldn't mind a set in a solid blue. 

They do exist in 'milder' colors; I bought a pair a few years back that
are off-white silk. Unfortunately, they're becoming rather thread-bare,
and I don't know how to mend them.

<On a historic note, does anyone know of such compartmentalized undergarments
<being worn pre-1960's? In colder lands, I would assume this might be a good
<idea.

I would actually assume otherwise.  Mitten are warmer than gloves. 

Parsla Liepa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 21:01:59 1999
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 18:12:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sue Toorans <suetoo@svpal.org>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: Sue Toorans <suetoo@svpal.org>

**

   Sue                         I am *NOT* a rabid feminist!
                               I had my shots last year.

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 21:14:15 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/6/99 3:25:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SAQUEEN@aol.com 
writes:

<< 
 My husband is a project director, different medium than costume, and he 
often 
 tells his customers: You can have it good, or you can have it cheap, or you 
 can have it fast. But you can only have 2 of the 3. Try the variables, it 
 really works. 
  >>

On a film I worked, someone in the paint dept. had a T-shirt with this on the 
back:


                Good
               /       \
             /           \
           /               \
      Fast----------Cheep
            PICK TWO
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 21:15:25 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I believe the Japanese do have socks with the big toe separated--the easier 
to wear with thongs.  (I know there is a special name for them, which escapes 
me at the moment.  I'm sure someone out there knows.)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 21:07:54 1999
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From: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: vintage clothing
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 18:15:51 -0700 
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-Poster: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>


They're called Tabi (I hope I spelled that right!)
-Jill

	
	-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

	I believe the Japanese do have socks with the big toe separated--the
easier 
	to wear with thongs.  (I know there is a special name for them,
which escapes 
	me at the moment.  I'm sure someone out there knows.)
	Ann Wass
	 _________________________________________________________________
	 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
	 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May  7 22:27:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 19:38:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: vintage clothing
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:15 PM 5/7/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
>
>I believe the Japanese do have socks with the big toe separated--the easier 
>to wear with thongs.  (I know there is a special name for them, which
escapes 
>me at the moment.  I'm sure someone out there knows.)
>Ann Wass
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>          I think I've seen : tabi : used as the term for those socks.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May  8 00:39:56 1999
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-Poster: "Gina Henderson" <faoiltigearna@ivillage.com>

 Someone please help me get off this list. I've sent the msgs., gone to the web site etc.



--
Visit http://www.ivillage.com for your FREE iVillage.com email account.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May  8 00:59:09 1999
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Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 01:10:43 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: H-COST: shoe sizes
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

I have a shoe store measuring Thingy.  So I measured in inches to compare
with the shoe sizes range.  here are the results.  By the way , I was so
surprised to see how little how little it takes to change to a larger shoe
size.

10 1/2" -10
10 1/4" -9 1/2
10" -9
9 3/4" - 8 1/2
9 1/2" -8
9 1/4" -7 0r 7 1/2
9" -6 or 6 1/2
8 3/4" -6
8 1/2" -5 1/2

	Of course, the narrowness of the shoes and the pointiness of the toe can
render this chart practically useless.  These are women's shoes only! 
  I also have a chart that compares the different sizes in different
countries.  It came on the bottom of a Nike shoe box.  I will see if I can
locate it.

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May  8 01:12:58 1999
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Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 00:21:50 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Movie stuff and Whole costumer's catalog
In-Reply-To: <199905071404.IAA28929@indra.com>
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>
>- -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
>
>LOL, this reminds me of last summer when I went to the Blockerbuster's
>Legend tour with the costumes from major films.  They had a uniform from one
>of the Star Trek movies. It was for one of the principle characters.  I just
>laughed when I saw it... looked like a short bathrobe and pajamas to me!
>
When we went to see the Star Wars exhibit at the Smithsonian last year, we
were LOL to see that both Admiral Ackbar's (fishy alien) tunic and the
Stormtroopers snow gear were made out of what looked very much like white
wool blankets.  What was even more fun was we had just bought about a half
dozen of them really cheap.  Also, it was very obvious that Obi-Wan
Kenobi's costume, which looked like burlap from all the pictures, was
loosely woven raw silk.  Makes sense, given the temps they were filming in.

>Could someone post the most recent info for ordering The Whole Costumer's
>Catalog? 

What I have from the 1998 edition:

The Whole Costumer's Catalogue
Box 207 / 2860 Main St.
Beallsville, PA  15313-0207
(724) 632-3242
castleb@pulsenet.com

Copies are $17.00 plus $3.00 p & h for Continental U.S.  Ask for other
postal rates.

Hope this helps.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May  8 01:21:43 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 01:32:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

My understanding of vintage clothing vs. historic costume...

Vintage clothing is costumes from a given period that are still wearable.
When one is supposed to stop wearing a time period's clothing is when very
few original pieces exist.  An example is that the costume crew from Titanic
used up a lot of that time period's vintage clothing from many dealers.
This created a shortage in the marketplace.  Some dealers believe this era's
costumes has now passed into the historic costume category.  I found this
description from a very high-end dealer's website.  I wish I knew the url>>>
The site went into dates of clothing one should not wear the costumes from
because of limited availability of originals.  She suggested that pieces in
these rare eras should be NOT worn but preserved.

Actually where many curators stand on this issue is that costumes are
considered historic when the fashion has passed through the fashion life
cycle.  Generally five years afterwards is a safe bet.  Clothing from the
1960-1985 are really considered historic.  The Valentine is currently
hosting an exhibit with 200 years of children clothing and several pieces
are teenagers' clothing from the 1960-1994.  When was the last time you saw
a kid wear a tye dyed shirt with matching tye dyed pants?  But in the late
70s its was fashionable.  Also, the Wenham Museum in Mass. will be hosting
an exhibit on costumes of the 1960-70s.  I'd love to see that exhibit!

I recently heard rumored that vintage Levi's denim jackets with the red tag
are in high demand and commanding very high prices.  The jackets are vintage
and historic costume.

I guess this would be a good topic at the banquet table at CSA's symposium
in a couple of weeks.  Maybe I'll start that conversation up and then be a
fly on the wall.  Maybe, I will have a dealer and curator at my table.

I think the main difference between historic and vintage is... historic is
the study of past fashion periods and vintage is the current usage and
availability of actual costumes from past fashion periods.

I'll let you know when I get back from Santa Fe, what was said...

Later...Penny (who still loves to wear my "You've Come A Long Way, Baby"
t-shirt {vintage and historic})
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May  9 10:21:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 10:33:54 +0000
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

Hello all,

I have listed more books on ebay. We'll be heading home the end of this week.
Just too hot in Florida this time of the year. I'll be listing 4-5 books a day
then
until all 15 or so shelves are empty.

Bookmark my ebay  page and check in now and then:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=101729801

Two new titles entered last night are:

Fashion in History by Bigelow
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=101729801

Imperial Style. Fashions of the Hapsburg Era
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=101690866

Thanks for looking,

Lois




Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May  9 20:47:04 1999
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Buff Coats
Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 20:54:32 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>


Greetings!

I am interested in any info people might have on pre -17th century
buff coats (say 1550-1600) .  Are there examples of long leather coats
used as armour during the Elizabethan period, or were they mostly
found around the time of the English Civil War.  I know there were a
lot of leather garments in the 16th century, but when did the coat
come in? I've seen some long coats worn under breast plates in the
Lant's Rolls of the funeral of Sir Phillip Sydney, could these be a
form of buff coat?  Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.  I
was mostly hoping to confirm that such a thing existed.

Thank you in advance
Albrecht
(Yes Nicolaa, its me.)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May  9 20:48:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 20:57:45 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: SHOE sizes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

Size 9 womens here would be a size 7 over in the UK.  We (I was born 
and raised in Wales) ohly have one continuous shoe sizing chart for 
childrens, womens and mens.

0, 00, 1 - 13, 1 - 13  Don't ask my why it's organized in 2 sets of 1 
-13 though!

babies = low end, kids, up through 1st 13 and maybe  few more like 1 - 
3 in the 2nd 13, womens usually 2 or 3 - 8 or 9 (2nd 1 - 13)
Mens higher middle to end of second 1 - 13.  I general, American 
women's shoe size for the same shoe is 2 figures more that than the 
English size would be for the same shoe.

Then there's the european shoe sizes, which I've seen, but don't really 
know too much about.

Clothes on the other hand...  British size 16 = American size 14.
Which makes me very happy as I'm living the US. and now I take a 
"smaller" size! :-)

I wonder when did all these sizes come about?
Also, when did paper patterns come about, and what did they use before 
that? 

Elysant

On Thu, 06 May 1999, Anah <anah@tymeportal.com> wrote:
>
>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>
>
>in regard to UK shoe sizes, what is the conversion? meaning, if one
>wears a 9 in US sizes, what is it likely to be in UK sizes?
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May  9 21:25:27 1999
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Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:34:35 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sleeve or glove?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster: Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>

Greetings the list.

I am SCAdian (not SCA'an BTW :-)), and deeply appreciate the actions of one 
of the gentles on this list who, a couple of months ago, gave me the new 
subscription information for the SCA-garb list (which had apparently moved). 

I had been trying to find access to this SCA list for several months, but 
only had found this list via the kindness help of the Eastern Kingdom List 
Administrator.  

Many other SCAdians are and have also been quite unable to subscribe to SCA 
garb, because of its moving sites, as well as they're not having access to 
subscription information, and have I'm sure been participating on this list 
asking questions as pertain to their particular period and garb needs.  

To help my fellow SCAdians, I recently mentioned SCA-garb on the Eastern 
Kingdom list and offered to send out the subscription info to interested 
gentles. Many people were appreciative of the information, and took up my 
offer of it.

I would therefore like to similarly offer here that if there are any SCAdians 
who wish to join the SCA-garb list, please e-mail me privately I will forward 
the subscription information to you.

I appreciate any and all input in the subject of costuming the experts and 
enthusiasts on this list share.  And I'm sure SCAdians are very appreciative 
of the camaraderie here. :-)

BTW, many of us, myself included, also have historical costuming interests 
outside the SCA period as well.  My particular favourite is the 18th century, 
pre-empire.  :-) 

Yours in Service to the dream
Elysant de Holtham
MKA Jean Holtom

On Thu, 06 May 1999, Anah <anah@tymeportal.com> wrote:
>
>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>
>
>
>> So then the answer is 19/20 Century, right? Yes, that's the answer.
>> 
>> This is the COSTUME list, and just because it doesn't occur before 1600
>> doesn't mean that it doesn't count.  It seems to me that for the past
>> month, this list is becoming more and more an SCA list, and it's become
>> tiring.
>
>with all due respect, I believe she went to the only source she had
>personally availed to her for the quickest answer.  Just becasue an
>SCA-an comes back with an answer, does not mean its all inclusive,
>because as we all kno, the SCA is "not what the middle ages was, but
>what it was supposed to be"  there are the costume police in ANY group,
>some hold closer to what was done in "the day" than do others, but  I
>would be appreciative of information from what ever source.  
>
>For some reason, because an SCA'an came back with the answer first, it
>seems to have raised someone's ire abit.  
>
>it is ALL history, whether it wavers on the point of fantasy or not
>sometimes is a question of interpretation, really.  
>> 
>> We tend to go through cycles regarding SCA period vs. costume list.  We've
>> hit the top of this cycle.  Please remember that many of us don't care
>> about SCA.  Laurels and such don't have a huge place on this list.  There
>> are other sites for SCA.
>
>Comments such as this only fan the "SCA period vs Costume List" IMHO  I
>would hate to see someone think better of posting because it may be
>interpreted as an SCA question, whether historical or not.  when one
>person on this list may be able to help them.
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 09:25:33 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:38:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Okay, I must tell you all... I was in Boston yesterday shopping and I found
a store that sells toe socks!!!  For the life of me I can't remember the
name of the store, but it is in the South Market Upstairs.   So, if you're
in the Boston area, have fun!






>
>-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
>
>
>
>WOW....I never expected to see such a great bunch of fun people, although I
>do apologize this not being a historical topic....but lets face it this is
>"histerical" ....Toe Socks....
>
>Let me add, I am located in Gardner, MA North Central about 20 minutes from
>the New Hampshire border.....
>
>I agree 60's/70's is not vintage, and why did I allow it to come into my
>store is beyond me.....Costume for sure....again I apologize this not being
>to historical....
>
>Bernice
>
>PS.....love reading the post and thank you for making me feel welcomed....
>
>I do have a web site however with changes in the store to downsize I need
>to do changes on this site...although I sell on ebay ....look me up through
>my email address....again thank you all, you were extremely helpful
>
>http://www.tiac.net/users/wer/
>
>Reflections in Vintage Clothing
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 09:37:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:46:13 -0400
From: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

ok, what is the name of it so we can call directory assistance?????

Sarah Toney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> 
> Okay, I must tell you all... I was in Boston yesterday shopping and I found
> a store that sells toe socks!!!  For the life of me I can't remember the
> name of the store, but it is in the South Market Upstairs.   So, if you're
> in the Boston area, have fun!
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
> >
> >
> >
> >WOW....I never expected to see such a great bunch of fun people, although I
> >do apologize this not being a historical topic....but lets face it this is
> >"histerical" ....Toe Socks....
> >
> >Let me add, I am located in Gardner, MA North Central about 20 minutes from
> >the New Hampshire border.....
> >
> >I agree 60's/70's is not vintage, and why did I allow it to come into my
> >store is beyond me.....Costume for sure....again I apologize this not being
> >to historical....
> >
> >Bernice
> >
> >PS.....love reading the post and thank you for making me feel welcomed....
> >
> >I do have a web site however with changes in the store to downsize I need
> >to do changes on this site...although I sell on ebay ....look me up through
> >my email address....again thank you all, you were extremely helpful
> >
> >http://www.tiac.net/users/wer/
> >
> >Reflections in Vintage Clothing
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 09:41:56 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Note my original post... I don't remember... sorry! ;-(  I saw them and
didn't really even think about it until later.

sarah



>ok, what is the name of it so we can call directory assistance?????
>
>Sarah Toney wrote:
>>
>> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>>
>> For the life of me I can't remember the
>> name of the store, but it is in the South Market Upstairs.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 11:09:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 11:18:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: New book:  The Inventory of Henry VIII
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Hey guys,

I just found the most amazing book--it came out last fall, and costs an
arm and a leg, but it's worth it.  I found it at the Medieval Congress at
Kalamazoo, sold by David Stone books.  It's the Complete Inventory of
Henry VIII, compiled in 1547, and includes descriptions of everything from
clothing(the most important, naturally.  ;)  to furniture, bedding,
firefighting equipment, weapons, tools, jewelry, etc., etc. ad nauseum.

It's very big, and is actually the first of three books--this one is the
transcription of the inventory, while the next two are an analysis of it.
Janet Arnold was involved in the project before her death.

I've only had half an hour to look over it, and have already seen a couple
of intriguing listings as well as a couple of items that may set the tudor
fashion scene on it's ear:  two listings for knitted silk hose of crimson
and gold as well as a knitted partlet & doublet, partlets listed
specifically as being without sleeves, sleeveless gowns, and so on.

You can order all three books from the UK amazon site at
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ .


Yours,
Drea (poorer but happier nonetheless)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 11:28:38 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Just wanted to let the list know how the Kalamazoo Medieval Congress went,
textile-wise.  I gave a paper on 16th century lower-class Flemish dress,
Robin Netherton gave a fabulous paper on the evolution of the 15th century
V-necked gown, and Anne Reaves gave a paper on medieval islamic knitting.

The Islamic knitting talk was tres cool--Anne had examples of socks that
she had knitted off of Islamic originals, and explained the shaping and
structure of the socks and how they were knitted.  Many islamic knitted
socks had bands of blue geometric designs and knitted "Allah" bands, which
contained the inscription "Allah" in blue.  She also had some very
interesting things to say about the history of medieval knitting in
general, and the distinctions between and evolution from nalbindung to
knitting.

Robin's 15th century V-necked gown talk was also fascinating.  She used
tons of slides to pinpoint the precise evolution from the houppeland with
a turned-back collar to the late 15th century tight-fitting V-necked gown,
including information on construction that I'd never seen or read anywhere
else. She also had an actual illumination she'd found of the underdress
worn under these gowns which showed the placket attached to it, that shows
within the V of the V-necked gown later on. The talk actually got me,
who's never wanted to even wear a V-necked gown, excited about making one.

There were other textile talks too, and more books than are good for any
one person to see in the bookseller's room.  Including an edition of Queen
Elizabeth's wardrobe Unlock'd, CIBA reviews, the Henry VIII inventory
mentioned in the previous email, and various archeological type books
containing articles on such things as shoes recovered from the Mary Rose
and dress accessories in the Museum of London.  (The latter had pictures
of two french hood frames and one gable hood wire frame).  There were too
many manuscript facsimiles and art books to count, ranging from $10 to
$10,000.

Well, in short, it was fantastic--I've got enough articles, ideas, and new
material to keep me busy for years.  Plus I met some really incredible
people.

Drea Leed



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 11:32:08 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 16:19:06 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Toe Socks
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-Poster: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>

> (like gloves for the feet)  :)  I thot they rocked!I'd LOVE to find some
> for my neices and nephews it'd be a hoot!

I still wear them.  I buy the rainbow striped ones as they're my 
favourites, I've seen some in shdes of laveneder and a few other 
pastel combinations too....  *sock Shop* in England stocks them every 
few years they "come back in" and they stock up on them again.

> and, alison, I PREFER to go barefoot also.  even walking in the gravel. 
> I don't mind it much - weird, huh?  them durn COUNTRY GENES..lol

I too prefer barefoot but had to give up when I moved to the city 
(London, England) It didn'y happen straight away but the day I nearly 
stepped on a discarded syringe did it for me....

Teddy

 
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

Teddy wrote:

> I still wear them.  I buy the rainbow striped ones as they're my
> favourites, I've seen some in shdes of laveneder and a few other
> pastel combinations too....  *sock Shop* in England stocks them every
> few years they "come back in" and they stock up on them again.

do they have a website?  or would you happen to have contact info for
them?
 
> I too prefer barefoot but had to give up when I moved to the city
> (London, England) It didn'y happen straight away but the day I nearly
> stepped on a discarded syringe did it for me....

so I guess that pretty much leaves going barefoot only when u are at
home, right?  :)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 11:38:33 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Shakespear In Love
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

ok..here's my plea.  No fair flogging me either.

I haven't had a chance to SEE shakespear in love, but I AM buying the
video so I will have it forever.  

HOWEVER.  I NEED to get my hands on a shot of the dress Gweneth's
character wears as she plays Juliet in the movie.  can anyone point me
to a good url?  I have seen pictures, and have guessed on what may have
been the dress referred to.

when I asked one of the extras if she knew of a decent full shot of the
dress, she sent me a picture of something that I was pretty    sure
WASN'T the Juliet dress.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 12:13:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:24:37 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> You can order all three books from the UK amazon site at
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/ .

I would love to have the titles and authors names for the three books?  And at
the risk of being crude, what did the Inventory cost?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

So now that I'm pea green with envy and curious as a dead cat, please oh
please, is there more information on this?  Sources?  Copies of the handout?
Cynthia

> Robin's 15th century V-necked gown talk was also fascinating.  She used
> tons of slides to pinpoint the precise evolution from the houppeland with
> a turned-back collar to the late 15th century tight-fitting V-necked gown,
> including information on construction that I'd never seen or read anywhere
> else. She also had an actual illumination she'd found of the underdress
> worn under these gowns which showed the placket attached to it, that shows
> within the V of the V-necked gown later on. The talk actually got me,
> who's never wanted to even wear a V-necked gown, excited about making one.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

ok, I'll bite as well..I'd like to see this also

Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> So now that I'm pea green with envy and curious as a dead cat, please oh
> please, is there more information on this?  Sources?  Copies of the handout?
> Cynthia
> 
> > Robin's 15th century V-necked gown talk was also fascinating.  She used
> > tons of slides to pinpoint the precise evolution from the houppeland with
> > a turned-back collar to the late 15th century tight-fitting V-necked gown,
> > including information on construction that I'd never seen or read anywhere
> > else. She also had an actual illumination she'd found of the underdress
> > worn under these gowns which showed the placket attached to it, that shows
> > within the V of the V-necked gown later on. The talk actually got me,
> > who's never wanted to even wear a V-necked gown, excited about making one.
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 12:22:49 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:  The Inventory of Henry VIII
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


> 
> I would love to have the titles and authors names for the three books?  And at
> the risk of being crude, what did the Inventory cost?

The official titles & authors are:

The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol I:  The Transcript
by Philip Ward, et al

The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol II: Essays & Illustrations
by Philip Ward, et al

The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol III:  Essays & Illustrations
by Philip Ward, et al

I just did a quick keyword search on "Inventory Henry" and they all come
up.

As for the cost:  Amazon has it for 150 pounds.  The retail cost was $265
from David Stone; the Medieval Congress Discount brought it down to $198.
And (at the risk of being overly-gleeful), I snagged it on the last day of
the congress at half price, for $96.

Of course, now I have to get vols II and III...


Drea


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 12:48:42 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Anah & Merouda (& all y'all: )

Robin was on this list until recently--I'll ask her to post a message
about the paper, etc.  (I know she'd kill me if I opened a deluge of
requests upon her.  ;>

Ta,

Drea


> 
> -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> 
> ok, I'll bite as well..I'd like to see this also
> 
> Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> > 
> > So now that I'm pea green with envy and curious as a dead cat, please oh
> > please, is there more information on this?  Sources?  Copies of the handout?
> > Cynthia
> > 
> > > Robin's 15th century V-necked gown talk was also fascinating.  She used
> > > tons of slides to pinpoint the precise evolution from the houppeland with
> > > a turned-back collar to the late 15th century tight-fitting V-necked gown,
> > > including information on construction that I'd never seen or read anywhere
> > > else. She also had an actual illumination she'd found of the underdress
> > > worn under these gowns which showed the placket attached to it, that shows
> > > within the V of the V-necked gown later on. The talk actually got me,
> > > who's never wanted to even wear a V-necked gown, excited about making one.
> > 
> > --
> > Cynthia Long
> > Merouda the True of Bornover
> > Barony of Madrone
> > Kingdom of An Tir
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 13:36:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:49:48 -0400
From: "Gina Balestracci" <BalestracciG@Mail.Montclair.edu>
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-Poster: "Gina Balestracci" <BalestracciG@Mail.Montclair.edu>

Drea,

I saw you at the conference (in the book room), looked at your nametag, the name
registered, but I couldn't remember from where (you see so many people "out of
context" at these things) and was rushing somewhere or other.  I wasn't able to
make it to any of the costuming sessions because of "professional"
commitments--costuming is an avocation for me, but I heard the rumbles in the
cafeteria about how good they were.


I should've said something!

Gina Balestracci
balestraccig@mail.montclair.edu


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 13:57:24 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Oh boy, now it's my turn to be embarassed...Gina Balestracci...Gina...I
know three Ginas, and for the life of me can't remember which one you
would be.  

Where did you see me in the book room?  I, too saw so many people that
looked maddeningly familiar, and heard so many names I knew I'd heard
before on h-costume, a book cover, or in the society that I couldn't keep
any straight.  (Of course, most of the people there are bound to be
interesting, whether or not I know them from somewhere else.)

I'm glad to hear that the costuming sessions were rumbled about! 
What's your official field?

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 14:37:08 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Urk...I can't believe I did the private-posting-to-a-list thing.  Sorry,
all you guys!


Drea

On Mon, 10 May 1999, aleed wrote:

> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> Oh boy, now it's my turn to be embarassed...Gina Balestracci...Gina...I
> know three Ginas, and for the life of me can't remember which one you
> would be.  
> 
> Where did you see me in the book room?  I, too saw so many people that
> looked maddeningly familiar, and heard so many names I knew I'd heard
> before on h-costume, a book cover, or in the society that I couldn't keep
> any straight.  (Of course, most of the people there are bound to be
> interesting, whether or not I know them from somewhere else.)
> 
> I'm glad to hear that the costuming sessions were rumbled about! 
> What's your official field?
> 
> Drea
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 14:39:50 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:47:42 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shoes & sizes
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Size 9 womens here would be a size 7 over in the UK. 

ER I'm size 8.5 US and 5.5 UK and 39 continental

>Then there's the european shoe sizes, which I've seen, but don't really 
know too much about.

That is far more accurate than both the others !

>Also, when did paper patterns come about, and what did they use before 
that? 

Tailors !

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 15:43:09 1999
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Subject: H-COST: re: pointy sleeve controversy
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Now that we've all gotten some perspective on the 
pointy-sleeve-with-a-finger-loop question, I for one would like an answer. We 
know that some designers (probably the Gunnee Sacks crew, for one) actually 
use this today. And I think it's used in some Goth wear too. So what is it 
CALLED?

Gail Finke
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:51:42 EDT
Subject: H-COST: star wars coat
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Okay, I'll bite -- WHAT kind of fabric cost $500 a yard? I just have to know.

I once saw some clothing (as opposed to uphostery fabric, which often costs 
that much, or so decorating magazines would have us believe) that cost $400. 
It was from India -- hand-beaded silk. I think some of the beads were 
garnets. It was at our city's big bridal store, special-ordered for some 
society wedding, I think.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 15:49:40 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.boisestate.edu>
Organization: College of Business
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:58:13 MST
Subject: H-COST: Rit or bleach?
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.boisestate.edu>

Sorry if we've gone over this before. I obviously wasn't paying 
attention.

Anyway, I recently bought a linen-look fabric (poly/cotton) for 
$.44/yard. It's not bad fabric, it's just that the color is a cross 
between salmon and hunter orange (let's just say that the 
saleslady put on her sunglasses to cut it.) I was going to use for 
making patterns, muslins, etc. so washed it in hot water to 
preshrink. Found that it faded a bit. Wash wondering if I could 
make it usable by fading it more.

Have heard where people use Rit dye remover (I believe that's what 
they called it). Was also wondering if I just added some bleach if 
that might do the job (or will bleach streak and do the tie-dye 
look?). I don't mind the color so much as I just don't want my dress 
to compete with the florescent lighting.

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 15:50:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:00:38 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

This is a great question!  I always call it the
Pointy-Sleeve-with-a-Finger-Loop.  *Chuckle*
Cynthia

> Now that we've all gotten some perspective on the
> pointy-sleeve-with-a-finger-loop question, I for one would like an answer. We
> know that some designers (probably the Gunnee Sacks crew, for one) actually
> use this today. And I think it's used in some Goth wear too. So what is it
> CALLED?
>
> Gail Finke
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 15:51:27 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: star wars coat
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>


Gee... I balk when I have to pay $20 a yard... I can't imagine spending a
week's pay for a yard of fabric... ah, to be rich..

sarah

>
>
>Okay, I'll bite -- WHAT kind of fabric cost $500 a yard? I just have to
know.
>
>I once saw some clothing (as opposed to uphostery fabric, which often costs
>that much, or so decorating magazines would have us believe) that cost
$400.
>It was from India -- hand-beaded silk. I think some of the beads were
>garnets. It was at our city's big bridal store, special-ordered for some
>society wedding, I think.
>
>Gail Finke
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: pointy sleeve controversy
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 03:51 PM 5/10/99 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>Now that we've all gotten some perspective on the 
>pointy-sleeve-with-a-finger-loop question, I for one would like an answer. We 
>know that some designers (probably the Gunnee Sacks crew, for one) actually 
>use this today. And I think it's used in some Goth wear too. So what is it 
>CALLED?
>
 It's very common, almost the norm, in the bridal industry, where it's
called  a pointed cuff.  Sometimes there just isn't a special word for
something.

In the late 80's when I was doing bridal,  gowns with "portrait necklines"
(like mid 1800's berthas) were popular.  They often had what were called
"gauntlets" which were sort of false sleeves, tightly fitted, buttoning or
zipping at the upper arm.  They were long enough to go up to the armpit,
giving the illusion of a long sleeve, and they almost always had the point.
(They were also a bitch to fit tight enough to stay up without cutting off
circulation.)  At any rate, some manufacturers started calling the pointed
sleeve a "gauntlet sleeve" even when it was attached to the dress.  

While just about  every long sleeved gown I worked on had the point, very
few, maybe two, had the finger loop.  Usually the point is a bit shorter,
and  stays down by itself with no help.  Of course, that may be specific for
bridal, where you don't want a long point fighting with the view of the ring.  

Margo Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 18:13:14 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:  The Inventory of Henry VIII
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:25:14 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

drooling excessively...where'd my bib go?!?

*excuse me while I wipe off my keyboard*

*sigh*  I'd love to own these...I'll have to see if the UW Library has
them...

Gia/Giacinta

>The official titles & authors are:
>
>The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol I:  The Transcript
>by Philip Ward, et al
>
>The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol II: Essays & Illustrations
>by Philip Ward, et al
>
>The Inventory of King Henry VIII Vol III:  Essays & Illustrations
>by Philip Ward, et al
>
>I just did a quick keyword search on "Inventory Henry" and they all come
>up.
>
>As for the cost:  Amazon has it for 150 pounds.  The retail cost was $265
>from David Stone; the Medieval Congress Discount brought it down to $198.
>And (at the risk of being overly-gleeful), I snagged it on the last day of
>the congress at half price, for $96.
>
>Of course, now I have to get vols II and III...
>
>
>Drea
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 19:29:28 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:39:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

This is all just to weird...........I had toe socks when I was in Jr. High!


I'll never forget them They were dark blue with each toe being a separate
"bright" color :-)

Amanda

----------
> From: Sarah Toney <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: 60's/70's
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:38 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> 
> Okay, I must tell you all... I was in Boston yesterday shopping and I
found
> a store that sells toe socks!!!  For the life of me I can't remember the
> name of the store, but it is in the South Market Upstairs.   So, if
you're
> in the Boston area, have fun!
> 
> 
> >-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>
> >
> >WOW....I never expected to see such a great bunch of fun people,
although I
> >do apologize this not being a historical topic....but lets face it this
is
> >"histerical" ....Toe Socks....
> >
> >Let me add, I am located in Gardner, MA North Central about 20 minutes
from
> >the New Hampshire border.....
> >
> >I agree 60's/70's is not vintage, and why did I allow it to come into my
> >store is beyond me.....Costume for sure....again I apologize this not
being
> >to historical....
> >
> >Bernice
> >
> >PS.....love reading the post and thank you for making me feel
welcomed....
> >
> >I do have a web site however with changes in the store to downsize I
need
> >to do changes on this site...although I sell on ebay ....look me up
through
> >my email address....again thank you all, you were extremely helpful
> >
> >http://www.tiac.net/users/wer/
> >
> >Reflections in Vintage Clothing
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 19:50:22 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Star Wars posts
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:59:53 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Just about the only way this relates to the H-Costume list is that I'm
printing all of the Star Wars costume posts and giving them to my oldest
son (almost 20 yrs old) who is, at this time, camped on the sidewalk of the
movie theatre with hundreds of others waiting until Wednesday to get
tickets when they go on sale. (they got there yesterday morning and are 9th
in line). Star Wars will open here on May 19.  Low-and-behold if  we didn't
have one of the worst thunder/lightening storms that we've had in a long
time last night!!!! Ah, youth!!! 

He got out the sewing machine yesterday and wanted a 10 minute sewing
lesson before he left so he'd be ready to make his Jedi robe for next week.

BTW, he's using a bathrobe pattern as y'all suggested.

Thank you,

Amanda Reeves
Austin, TX

----------
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
> Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 6:30 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> I'm trying to stay away from all the hype because I want to enjoy the
film. I 
> want to go in cold....well "cool" since you'd have to be blind deaf &
dumb 
> [and even then] to not hear or see anything about it. 
> At least it won't have Kiana dresses & Danish pastry hairdos.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 20:35:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:35:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: star wars coat [or silk abuse]
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/10/99 4:08:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
toneys@rentgrow.com writes:

<< 
 Gee... I balk when I have to pay $20 a yard... I can't imagine spending a
 week's pay for a yard of fabric... ah, to be rich..
  >>

Film does this all the time. On "Last of the Mohicans" the silk for Cora's 
pannier gown was a beautiful Scalamondré ribbed silk in a putty pink & 
yellow-beige stripe. The gown was made & Michael Mann decided he didn't like 
it so it was unpicked, each piece color removed [in a #3 washtub over a hot 
plate] & dyed yellow [in the same tub] then reassembled. The silk was $250 a 
yard. Set dressing also had an expensive [also about $250] silk brocade from 
Scalamondré they were using for window dressing. Mr. Mann thought it too 
bright & had them dye it all down. Then he thought the pattern didn't show up 
enough [duh!] so he had someone go in & outline it all with a magic marker!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 21:32:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:47:44 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars posts
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

What's a Quiana dress?  I'm assuming that's the fabric of the white thing
that Leia wore...  what's it made of?

Anyway, anything that gets guys into costuming is a good thing in my book.
My hubby sewed his own 'Shadow' cloak (you know, the old radio character,
'The Shadow') for Halloween many years ago, and when I met him, I was
impressed with this fact.  He hasn't sewed anything since then, mind you --
but that's ok, because he at least appreciates the effort I put into my
projects.

This is somewhat on-topic, since I'm wondering to what extent the Jedi
robes are based on Japanese clothing -- they look a little like Aikido
outfits etc.  And Amidala's costumes and hairdos look vaguely as though
they're influenced by some of the more excessive hairdos of the royal
Chinese and Japanese courts.  Has there been any discussion of these
historical influences on the costumes?  Certainly the names 'Obi Wan
Kenobi' and 'Qui Gonn Jinn' (forgive any misspellings, please) seem
Japanese and Chinese-influenced, in a sci-fi sort of way.  Amidala, too,
now that I think of it.

Mara


At 06:59 PM 05/10/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
>Just about the only way this relates to the H-Costume list is that I'm
>printing all of the Star Wars costume posts and giving them to my oldest
>son (almost 20 yrs old) who is, at this time, camped on the sidewalk of the
>movie theatre with hundreds of others waiting until Wednesday to get
>tickets when they go on sale. (they got there yesterday morning and are 9th
>in line). Star Wars will open here on May 19.  Low-and-behold if  we didn't
>have one of the worst thunder/lightening storms that we've had in a long
>time last night!!!! Ah, youth!!! 
>
>He got out the sewing machine yesterday and wanted a 10 minute sewing
>lesson before he left so he'd be ready to make his Jedi robe for next week.
>
>BTW, he's using a bathrobe pattern as y'all suggested.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Amanda Reeves
>Austin, TX



Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 03:51 PM 5/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Okay, I'll bite -- WHAT kind of fabric cost $500 a yard? I just have to know.
         I would expect that REAL cloth of gold would likely run that, too.
Carol
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>HOWEVER.  I NEED to get my hands on a shot of the dress Gweneth's
>character wears as she plays Juliet in the movie.  can anyone point me
>to a good url?  I have seen pictures, and have guessed on what may have
>been the dress referred to.
>
>when I asked one of the extras if she knew of a decent full shot of the
>dress, she sent me a picture of something that I was pretty    sure
>WASN'T the Juliet dress.

Gwenyth plays Romeo. A male actor plays Juliet.

Hope this doesn't spoil things for you...

Lilinah


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-Poster: Chindora@aol.com

Gwyneth's character was supposed to play Romeo in the play, but due to a 
twist of fate she actually did perform as Juliet in the performance.  I would 
check for a web site for the movie... they usually have several pics.

Jane
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 21:52:20 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

I said:
>Gwenyth plays Romeo. A male actor plays Juliet.
>
>Hope this doesn't spoil things for you...

Ooops, i embarassed myself. She plays a "boy actor" for part of the film,
but "is" Juliet in the play. Mea culpa. I guess i've been watching too many
costume dramas lately.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 21:54:10 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

thank you o THANK you !  I am no dummy, but I haven't had a chance to
actually view the movie, and the one dress I thought may be the dress, I
can't find an entire shot of.  And all I have to go on is what the
customer referred to.  Have you seen the movie?  

I know I should have gone to see it, but I havent' had time to breathe,
much less sit in a dark room for 2+ hours watching a movie where I can't
do hand work at the same time. :o)

so, I opted to wait until this one came to video and BUY the video.

Thanks in advance!

Chindora@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Chindora@aol.com
> 
> Gwyneth's character was supposed to play Romeo in the play, but due to a
> twist of fate she actually did perform as Juliet in the performance.  I would
> check for a web site for the movie... they usually have several pics.
> 
> Jane
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shakespear In Love
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-Poster: Chindora@aol.com

I have seen the movie 3 times now.  The dress that you are talking about is a 
white and gold one....Italian Renaissaince style.  That would be the defining 
point when looking through pics of her in the film.  All of her other clothes 
were definately Elizabethan, whether they were men's or women's.

Jane

I tried the web site and could not get it to pull up, but since it has in the 
past I am assuming it is probably my computer being ornery tonight.

 <A HREF="http://www.miramax.com/shakespeareinlov/">Shakespeare in Love</A> 
http://www.miramax.com/shakespeareinlov/

Miramax can be reached at:
 
<A HREF="http://www.miramax.com/mm_front/owa/frontend.entryPoint">Welcome to 
the Miramax Cafe</A>
http://www.miramax.com 
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From: "Catherine de Calais" <ladyhauke@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rit or bleach?
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:46:47 PDT
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-Poster: "Catherine de Calais" <ladyhauke@hotmail.com>

Gee, we must have bought fabric off the same bolt!  Actually, the fabric I 
bought was here in San Antonio, Texas, 100% linen, about the same color as 
you described and NO, bleach doesn't help.  Haven't tried the dye remover, 
but have been advised by a local textile goddess that it will remove some 
color but that our best hope is to overdye it instead, so I am off to the 
store to purchase dye.  Good luck with your fabric. I will be curious to 
hear what happens at your end.


Catherine de Calais
Barony of Bjornsborg


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 22:56:32 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shakespear In Love
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:06:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

I went again  this past weekend to see SIL.  The dress in question is not
really that good.  But it is not meant to be good.  1. Because it was not
intended to be a first rate theatre, so the costumes were not to be the best
shape.  2. The dress was not meant for her but the boy who was supposed to
play Juliet.  I would have really been upset if the dress would have fit her
perfectly.

I really loved Elizabeth's collars in the film the first time I saw it.  The
second time I fell in love with Elizabeth's sleeves in her last appearance.
The fabric was sew in tubes, pressed and then woven together in a basket
weave.  The tubes appeared to be about 1 inch wide.  Now for my question????
The tubes did not appear to be woven to tightly.  How did they keep what
appeared to be satin tubes from sliding out of place??? They did not slide,
I watched this carefully.  Did they go into each square of the weave and
tack each one to another piece of fabric?  Maybe they fused the woven fabric
to another fabric??   That would be quicker than tacking.

Seeing the film a second time, I noticed some positive points to be made for
the costume designer.  The men (poor actors) DID wear the same costumes over
and over in the film.  I hate seeing films with a lower class character in
several different costumes.  Get real!  They are poor, they didn't have ten
outfits!  Although I did get tired of seeing Will's blue costume.  It
appeared to be leather or vinyl and looked hot.  I really enjoyed the men's
costuming.  The designer did have a nice variety of styles for the period.

I get in the movies for free, (my son works at the theatre) so maybe I'll go
see it again.  You can see so much more of the costuming details on a large
screen.  Too bad they won't freeze frame for me.

Has anyone seen the previews for "A Midsummer's Night Dream"?  I have tried
to pick the main period being represented.  From the quick teasers, it looks
kinda late bustle on the fringe of 1890.  But in this type of film,
designers are allowed to float around varying time periods.  I did my senior
design project on MND...my version they were all rock stars from the 1970s.
The Glam look vs Heavy Metal Rock stars look.  The players were the Doobie
Brothers!!!  It was wild!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 10 23:08:14 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Has anyone else seen the June issue of _Victoria_ magazine?  There is a
fabulous spread on paper recreations of historical women's gowns.  I
just drooled....  Check out the one with the fichu collar made out of
lens cleaning paper!  Looks like the gowns will be on display in New
York for a while.  Wonder if they'll travel elsewhere?

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 03:57:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 01:08:53 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Penny wrote:

> I recently heard rumored that vintage Levi's denim jackets with
> the red tag are in high demand and commanding very high prices.
> The jackets are vintage and historic costume.

Alas, it's not just any old Levi's jacket.  The catch is (and there's always a
catch) that the tags used to say "LEVI's", but they have said "LeVI's" for the
last 25 years or so.  If you can find the old jackets without the side pockets
(only chest pockets) it's a start.  To get the big bucks it has to have the
old "LEVI's" tag.  I have a like new jacket from circa 1975 (dad hardly wore
it), and it doesn't have the side pockets, but it still has the new tags.

Happy hunting,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Toe Socks
In-reply-to: <199905102000.OAA21766@indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> 
> > I still wear them.  I buy the rainbow striped ones as they're my
> > favourites, I've seen some in shdes of laveneder and a few other
> > pastel combinations too....  *sock Shop* in England stocks them every
> > few years they "come back in" and they stock up on them again.
> 
> do they have a website?  or would you happen to have contact info for
> them?

I don't know if they have a Web site.  Unlikely since all they sell is 
socks, they have outlets at most of the London stations and 
shopping areas.  I don't even know if they're a solely UK based 
company.  I have a couple of new pairs at home. I'll check the 
packaging tonight and see what info it lists.

 
> > I too prefer barefoot but had to give up when I moved to the city
> > (London, England) It didn'y happen straight away but the day I nearly
> > stepped on a discarded syringe did it for me....
> 
> so I guess that pretty much leaves going barefoot only when u are at
> home, right?  :)

Anywhere indoors (like right now at work - they've stopped 
mentioning it now and the other week I noticed my boss walking 
around the office without her shoes too...<g>)  Also at re-
enactment events - I'll often slob around the campsites barefoot 
and only get my shoes on when I *need* them


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: H-COST: Paper Costumes
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-Poster: Vestido6@aol.com

In the magazine, "The World of Interiors" January 1999, also appears an 
article on paper costumes on exhibition at the textile museum in Mulhouse, 
France entitled "Papiers a la Mode."  The photographs are stunning and the 
idea is fascinating.  

The article comments that the exhibition will be at the Museum of Fine Arts, 
Boston, in April, and then moves to the Fashion Institute of Technology in 
New York.  I think It's worth the walk from Chicago to Boston just to see it!

Dianne Kristoff
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From: Anah <anahysia@bellatlantic.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Rit or bleach?
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-Poster: Anah <anahysia@bellatlantic.net>


I haven't seen your fabric, but I have used the color remover on a
totally ugly piece of fabric and ended up with a very soft color I was
rather pleased with.  

if it were me I'd go ahead and try the color remover, the worst that
could happen is you would have to over dye it, and IMO there'd be less
color to over dye if you first try the color remover. :)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 09:53:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:04:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Midsummer Night's Dream
In-Reply-To: <001c01be9b5b$576ad160$224faccf@costume>
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-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>


<Has anyone seen the previews for "A Midsummer's Night Dream"?  I have tried
<to pick the main period being represented.  From the quick teasers, it looks
<kinda late bustle on the fringe of 1890.  But in this type of film,
<designers are allowed to float around varying time periods.  I did my senior
<design project on MND...my version they were all rock stars from the 1970s.
<The Glam look vs Heavy Metal Rock stars look.  The players were the Doobie
<Brothers!!!  It was wild!

In high school, when we put on MND, we set it in the 50s.  Titania
was Marilyn Monroe, Oberon a young Elvis, and Puck was running around in a
bowling shirt we found that had 'The Fairies' or something like that on
the back.  We had an awful lot of fun doing it; too bad most of the
details have escaped me.  Emma?

Parsla Liepa

	There's not a mome wrath born that can outgrabe me.
*******************************************************************************

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's Dream)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Talking about doing Shakespeare in strange settings, my husband and I have
always wanted to do the Klingon Imperial Shakespeare Company's production of
"Macbeth".  .  

The other one I'd like to do is the Costermonger/Pearly production of Romeo
and Juliet.  

Of course, Paramount would have our guts for garters if we tried this...and
then there's the matter that I just don't DO theater.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 11:02:41 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Qiana: Star Wars posts
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:04:09 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

It is Qiana, no "u". Many thought it to be a brand name or a company name.
It is the made up name for a fabric that has evolved into what is now known
by many other names depending on who is making it. The best of them is
Microfiber, hard to find and very expensive. It is now easier to sew on with
the right needle. In the 70's it was all the rage because it flowed well in
the costumes of the disco players and hugged the bodies of both sexes as if
they were wearing nothing. It gave that superhero body suit look.

It was the fabric that was used for Princess Leia's costumes.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars posts


:
:-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
:
:What's a Quiana dress?  I'm assuming that's the fabric of the white thing
:that Leia wore...  what's it made of?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 11:03:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:14:18 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

He should be taken out and shot.  What a disgusting waste.  C~

> The gown was made & Michael Mann decided he didn't like
> it so it was unpicked, each piece color removed [in a #3 washtub over a hot
> plate] & dyed yellow [in the same tub] then reassembled. The silk was $250 a
> yard. Set dressing also had an expensive [also about $250] silk brocade from
> Scalamondré they were using for window dressing. Mr. Mann thought it too
> bright & had them dye it all down. Then he thought the pattern didn't show up
> enough [duh!] so he had someone go in & outline it all with a magic marker!
>

Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 11:08:58 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:17:27 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's Dream)
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

One of the best Macbeth's I know of is a movie called *Joe Macbeth* set in
Chicago during the 20s ganster era.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks

----------
>From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's Dream)
>Date: Tue, May 11, 1999, 8:31 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Talking about doing Shakespeare in strange settings, my husband and I have
>always wanted to do the Klingon Imperial Shakespeare Company's production
of
>"Macbeth".  .  
>
>The other one I'd like to do is the Costermonger/Pearly production of Romeo
>and Juliet.  
>
>Of course, Paramount would have our guts for garters if we tried this...and
>then there's the matter that I just don't DO theater.  
>
>Margo
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/10/99 11:08:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com writes:

<< How did they keep what
 appeared to be satin tubes from sliding out of place???  >>

I know & have worked with the head cutter, Annie Hadley, for SIL [and 
Elizabeth]. Knowing her they probably are tacked by hand at each corner....or 
mounted onto a net. And Will's doublet is indeed leather [Sandy Power loves 
the stuff].

Annie is great! I love her. Her working methods are sound. She likes for one 
person to construct one costume....IOW it doesn't get passed from hand to 
hand very much. Of course she will make half of something & then not have 
time to complete it [her duties are many] so someone else has to make the 
other half [been there]. On Mohicans, when it was sooooo hot, we all got a 
gin & tonic at 7:00 before knocking off at 8:00.....a little treat while you 
finished up the days work.
She contributes a lot to the designer's work. Here are some other films she's 
cut the clothes for:
Last of the Mohicans
Hamlet [Mel Gibbson's]
Interview with the Vampire
The Last Emperor
Brazil
Elizabeth
Wings of the Dove
Black Adder [second season on]
and many others I can't remember
She was working on a gladiator movie when I spoke with her in January.
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:31:11 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's Dream)
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/11/99 10:38:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< I just don't DO theater.   >>
A scene painter friend of mine has a big sign on his bedroom wall:
Say no to Theatre

Anyway...there's a video version of Midsummer done in 1965 or thereabouts by 
the RSC. It's great! done modern dress [for 1965] sorta....but it's the cast 
that still makes this a delight!
Lysander....David Warner
Hermia....Helen Mirren
Helena.....Diana Rigg
Puck....Ian Holm
Titania...Judi Dench [green & bare breasted!]
Oberon.....Ian Richardson

It was shot for TV & has no "special" special effects. Quite primitive but 
remember "The play's the thing"! Rent it if you can find it.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 12:41:50 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>Just wanted to let the list know how the Kalamazoo Medieval Congress went,
>textile-wise.  I gave a paper on 16th century lower-class Flemish dress,

Wonderful, i hope it went really well.

>Robin Netherton gave a fabulous paper on the evolution of the 15th century
>V-necked gown, and Anne Reaves gave a paper on medieval islamic knitting.

Well, of course i'd love to hear everything, but the *Islamic knitting*
interests me - any way to get this info?

Thanks,
Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 13:38:51 1999
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From: "Cheryl Williams" <jade@aisi.net>
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-Poster: "Cheryl Williams" <jade@aisi.net>


What is the pattern Number  for that one?>

>>As for the 1370s gown 
Yrsa



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 14:27:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:04:47 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's Dream)
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

When I was in highschool, back in the '70's, my English class read, and
saw Roman Polanski's, Macbeth. then we were all told to do some sort of
presentation or reading for the rest of the class. I (haveing the warped
and twisted sense of humor that I am loved and feared for) decided that
the best thing to do was the three witches' scene (double-double toil and
trouble..) as a cheer. So I and two of my equally twisted and nerdy
friends got up in front of our English class and did the passage as a
traditional cheer. We thought it was hysterically funny and it really did
work surprisingly well (think about it). The rest of the kids either
thought that we were totally strange (we were)or just couldn't stop
laughing. As you visualize this tho, you have to remember that we were
three of the *least* cheerleader looking people on the planet.


Karen
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Message-ID: <o8XegBA+1HO3Iwaj@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:57:02 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <Pine.GSU.4.10.9905101122230.8886-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>,
aleed <aleed@dnaco.net> writes

Drea, trust me to read a whole very interesting post and pick up on one
hat snippet:

<snip>
>various archeological type books
>containing articles on such things as shoes recovered from the Mary Rose
>and dress accessories in the Museum of London.  (The latter had pictures
>of two french hood frames and one gable hood wire frame).  
<snip>

Were these actually labelled as such?  What did they look like?  I have
been to the museum and saw two bent-wire frames, but they just said for
"hoods".  They were sort of angled but not very, and I wasn't sure if
they were gables or the later angled Anglo/French hood (a la Mary
Tudor). Can you give me any clues?

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 15:11:11 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
In-Reply-To: <o8XegBA+1HO3Iwaj@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


There was one wire bit shaped like the front of a gable hood, and two
rounded ones that looked to be french hoods.  I didn't read the article
that closely--I had to give the book back   :( and my friend, curse her,
bought the last copy and absconded with it, though she's promised to send
me a xerox copy of the article.  When I have the book title & article
name, I'll send it.  I think the book was titled English Archeology
1400-1600, or something along those lines.

(I figured you'd be interested in it.  :)


Drea



 On Tue, 11 May 1999, Jean
Waddie wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> 
> In message <Pine.GSU.4.10.9905101122230.8886-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>,
> aleed <aleed@dnaco.net> writes
> 
> Drea, trust me to read a whole very interesting post and pick up on one
> hat snippet:
> 
> <snip>
> >various archeological type books
> >containing articles on such things as shoes recovered from the Mary Rose
> >and dress accessories in the Museum of London.  (The latter had pictures
> >of two french hood frames and one gable hood wire frame).  
> <snip>
> 
> Were these actually labelled as such?  What did they look like?  I have
> been to the museum and saw two bent-wire frames, but they just said for
> "hoods".  They were sort of angled but not very, and I wasn't sure if
> they were gables or the later angled Anglo/French hood (a la Mary
> Tudor). Can you give me any clues?
> 
> Jean
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Subject: H-COST: Places to shop in Houston Tx and Charlotte NC??
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-Poster: deanq@ionet.net

Any suggestions on Fabric etc places in Houston and Charlotte?  


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 17:53:22 1999
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-Poster: karla@silverspin.net


Greetings everyone,

I am wondering what would be appropriate trim/embellishment for a sideless
surcote? 

I made one last year, and just used that tape binding stuff on the
armholes and neckline in a contrasting color, to finish it.  It's bright
red with royal blue trim, and I wear it over a white underdress (yes I
know I should actually have a cotehardie or something under it as well :)

Every time I put it on, my boyfriend comments about how plain it is... and
I agree, it is quite plain, especially considering that I don't even wear
a belt with it (yet).

I'm hoping to get another 1 or 2 surcotes made before our Crown event
(which is the weekend of the 22nd-24th), and I'd like to make them a
little more interesting this time.

I already have one large chunk of dark cornflower-blue fabric, and one of
purple that I'm going to use for them.  What would be appropriate trim for
these dresses?

Thank you,
Karla
(known as Charlotte of Lion's Gate in the SCA)
karla@silverspin.net


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:12:47 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I am wondering what would be appropriate trim/embellishment for a sideless
> surcote?   [snip]
> Every time I put it on, my boyfriend comments about how plain it is...

Well, it would be very cool if you two had arms you could display.  Heraldic
embellishment was quite popular in the the time of the surcotes and
cotehardies.  Check out the Luttrell Psalter's front page to get a good idea
of what I mean.  The biggest problem with sideless surcotes as we make them
today is that there really isn't much out there to back up this particular
style unless you look at royalty.  It would look absolutely lovely if you did
fur down the front to the hips and around the openings and then sewed on big
chunky metal buttons with some kind of stones.  Anything else wasn't done
quite this extravagantly.  Unless it has heraldry or some kind of fur and
plastron, they were fairly plain.  The fabric used would be the
embellishment.  Silk brocades etc... would be lovely.

Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/11/99 4:42:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, deanq@ionet.net 
writes:

<< Any suggestions on Fabric etc places in Houston and Charlotte?  
  >>

About the only place to shop in all of NC is Mary Jo's in Gastonia which is 
just south of Charlotte on I85....the Cox Rd exit. It's in the back of the 
mall that is just off the highway at the exit.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
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-Poster: karla@silverspin.net

> > I am wondering what would be appropriate trim/embellishment for a sideless
> > surcote?   [snip]
> > Every time I put it on, my boyfriend comments about how plain it is...
> 
> Well, it would be very cool if you two had arms you could display.  Heraldic

Well, I do have arms (well, I know what I want and I know it'll pass...
but til I find a last name I can't actually register them).  My boyfriend
doesn't do SCA yet... he's just very opinionated :)

> embellishment was quite popular in the the time of the surcotes and
> cotehardies.  Check out the Luttrell Psalter's front page to get a good idea
> of what I mean.  The biggest problem with sideless surcotes as we make them
> today is that there really isn't much out there to back up this particular
> style unless you look at royalty.  It would look absolutely lovely if you did
> fur down the front to the hips and around the openings and then sewed on big
> chunky metal buttons with some kind of stones.  Anything else wasn't done
> quite this extravagantly.  Unless it has heraldry or some kind of fur and
> plastron, they were fairly plain.  The fabric used would be the
> embellishment.  Silk brocades etc... would be lovely.

Hmm... maybe I'll stick with plain surcotes for now :) I don't really want
to wear any form of fur to crown (not that I can afford fur anyways)...
the fabrics I'm going to be using aren't very fancy either.

> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir 
off-topic sidenote... Are you going to Crown, Merouda? :)

Karla
(known in the SCA as Charlotte)
Barony of Lion's Gate, Kingdom of An Tir
karla@silverspin.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 18:23:38 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Places to shop in Houston Tx and Charlotte NC??
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:37:33 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

For Houston check out High Fashion Fabrics and its sister store that sells
Upholstery fabric. They are only a street apart. As for how to get there I
couldn't tell you as I have only been there once.
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: deanq@ionet.net <deanq@ionet.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 3:42 PM
Subject: H-COST: Places to shop in Houston Tx and Charlotte NC??


>
>-Poster: deanq@ionet.net
>
>Any suggestions on Fabric etc places in Houston and Charlotte?
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

I'm not a huge fan of the Star Wars phenomena, though I do enjoy it, and
wondered if I might ask assistance for something not exactly related to the
topic of this list. (and I apologize for wasting the bandwidth, but wasn't
sure where else to go.)

I have in my possesion a movie theater poster from the original release of
Star Wars. Right off the theater, in fact, as the owner took a shine to me
at the time. Where might I go to find out if the silly thing has any value?

Thanks for your time!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 18:44:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 18:55:43 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: h-costume - silk abuse
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

Ahh, $500 a yard is nothing.  I can pay $900 a yard at several stores
locally, and have a choice!  They are all silk (what else would I notice),
embroidered and beaded.  If I ever win the lottery, I will have a gown of
this.  Als o, the first sari I fell in love with was $2,500.  Silk brocade
(real metal), embroidered and beaded with freshwater pearls.

I've seen embarrassingly expensive fabrics squirted with glycerine to fake
sweat, distressed, tea stained for a play.  I once had to beat up a
beautiful garment, scuffing it in the dirt with my feet, beating it with a
stick.  I wanted to take it home and "baby it" it was so gorgeous.  Sigh!   

Would we really believe a queen in polyester, though?  C'mon, we'd know the
difference and gripe (or, I would).

Marsha McLean
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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT Star Wars Question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>
>I have in my possesion a movie theater poster from the original release of
>Star Wars. Right off the theater, in fact, as the owner took a shine to me
>at the time. Where might I go to find out if the silly thing has any value?
>
>

There are books that give prices for collectibles, but you can't always
count on actually getting those prices.  I read somewhere that the current
Beany Baby craze was actually induced, in part, by a couple who wrote a
Beany collecting book with the express goal of boosting their collection's
value.

To find out what people are REALLY paying, Ebay is good.  there are several
zillion SW auctions at any given time...

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 19:49:52 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT Star Wars Question
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:00:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

There is a book called "Collecting Toys: A Collector's Identification &
Value Guide" that lists all the suggested prices and the condition of the
all Star Wars and Star Trek items.  The author is Richard O'Brien, ISBN
0-89689-073-2.  Our book is an old edition.  Both films have a huge
collector audience.  People buy about anything with the films' names on it.
Look on the web, I bet you can find a copy of the book.  My sons have the
fifth edition. I was walking through Walmart yesterday and saw all the
merchandise with the SW advertising on it, like Pepsi.  I thought this will
be worth a fortune one day.  Even the SW posters Burger King gave away are
worth a pretty penny.

My two sons have been collecting Star Wars everything for years.  They only
collected original items from glasses to big space ships (they must have 20
of them).  They have NEVER used any of the toys or other related items, like
sheets.  They bought the items and put them away.  The boys purchased
from1987-1994 when all the SW generation kids started high school and got
rid of their toys. My sons had clerks in every thrift store watching and
holding the used SW toys and stuff for them.  They have hundreds of SW
action figures.  My sons kept saying... "One day when another Star Wars film
will come out, then we are going to sell the items and pay for our college."
Guess what?  One son starts college in the fall and the other will be a
junior in high school.  When the market is high enough they are going to
sell... probably soon. They too have a movie poster that is framed.  That is
the only item they are keeping.

My son (the college bound one) who works at a movie theatre has collected
original film posters of every film his theatre has shown since his
employment (last August).  For my daughter's seventh birthday he gave her
ALL the original movie display posters from "Rugrats" the movie.  These are
four vinyl posters that measure app. 6 ft. by 8ft.  The posters are double
sided and each has a different Rugrat character.  They are rolled up and put
away in her closet.  Imagine what that will be worth one day.

My favorite line from Space Balls the movie, "Merchandising, merchandising,
that's where all the money from the movie is made... Space Balls: The flame
thrower, Space Balls: The toilet paper...."  Mel Brooks was making in fun of
Star Wars and the best mass merchandising plan ever!

It's like living in a toy museum around here.  My husband still has 80 of
his Hot Wheels from the 1960s and boxes of that orange track.  That orange
track has lived through my husband and five sons.  Occasionally my husband
and sons will pull out their Hot Wheel collections, put up that orange track
from one end of the house to the other, and race one another.  My oldest
son, now 22 y.o. has the original Smurfs when they were orange instead of
blue.  I gave the Smurfs to him for his second Christmas.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


>I have in my possesion a movie theater poster from the original release of
>Star Wars. Right off the theater, in fact, as the owner took a shine to me
>at the time. Where might I go to find out if the silly thing has any value?


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Subject: H-COST: Opps! Star Wars
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

Darn, I hit the wrong button.  Sorry...Penny


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 20:03:34 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


--Greetings!

>Hmm... maybe I'll stick with plain surcotes for now :) I don't really want
>to wear any form of fur to crown (not that I can afford fur anyways)...
>the fabrics I'm going to be using aren't very fancy either.


One thing I've seen which is simple yet elegant is the use of decorations
down the front.  Large buttons are a possibility, but even better is to get
some filigree pieces (the ones I'm thinking of are square in shape, I've
seen them turned so they're diamond-shaped) and put them down the front to
about the hipline, much like buttons, but spaced further apart.

You could also choose a motif you liked and applique it around the hemline.
I'm not sure how documentable (if at all) it is, but it certainly falls
within the same general field as heraldic decoration.

Susan Carroll-Clark

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 21:40:34 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: star wars and unorthodox shakespeare
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:52:27 -0400
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

perhaps not costume related but i couldnt resist the opportunity to combine
these 2 threads:

http://members.aol.com/moseisleym/sw-main.html

macbeth in the starwars universe, done by some very technologically gifted
high schoolers. its a hoot!

obcostume: i too have noticed the japanese influence on episode 1's
costumes - the whole jedi hierarchy seems loosely based on the samurai as
well. i think that discussing this movie is relevant as it borrows from
historic sources and is bound to be influential in upcoming fashions.
allison


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 22:42:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
In-Reply-To: <l03130301b35d90311cda@[208.202.189.126]>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


I am back at the computer (having come home from the Congress a day later
than Drea) and I've already got queries in my inbox about my paper on
15th-century gowns!  Wow. I'll post a summary of the relevant points
soon, in a separate message.

But first I have to brag on Drea. She told you about the other papers at
our session, but of course she was too modest to tell you she was both
brilliant and beautiful. She was our one costumed presenter this year, and
was stunning in a complete linen-and-wool Flemish marketwoman's outfit. 
Her paper was a solid and comprehensive look at the costume details shown
in the art of two Antwerp artists who frequently painted working women.
I'm sure many of the people in the audience were there just to hear her,
and they were not disappointed. Kudos to Drea for a splendid debut. (And
from the way she's talking, we've got her hooked into coming back to the
Congress, and maybe presenting again sometime down the road.) 

You've already heard about Anne Reaves, our knitting expert. Anne did a
splendid overview of European knitting for us a few years ago, and she was
back this year with Islamic socks, including samples and knitting
instructions she developed herself based on medieval examples she examined
first-hand in Spain.

After both of those ladies, I was satisfied that I managed to deliver my
paper in the alloted time, as I was certain I was going to run over. I
fear I spoke *very* fast :-)  But this was not a major problem, as we
adjourned immediately into the scheduled reception for DISTAFF, the
textile & dress interest group at Kalamazoo (which we formed for the sole
purpose of sponsoring sessions). So we just continued the discussion less
formally for another hour. 

I'd also like to call attention to a standout from the earlier DISTAFF
session, which focused on "Art & Reality" (the session with Anne, Drea and
me was "Practical Considerations"). Marcia Schlemm, whom some of you may
know (she lives in the Kansas City area), knocked 'em over with her
discussion of how enameling techniques can influence depiction of costume.
She showed examples of a distinct polka-dot pattern on the clothing of
some figures in Limoges enamels, and then demonstrated (with slides of her
enameling setup and samples of enamels at different stages of the process) 
how the polka dots are an easy way to create a pattern in enamels -- and
so almost certainly they reflect the considerations of the medium, and are
not evidence of polka-dot patterns in actual dress. 

I made an absolute pig of myself in the book room this year. I have NEVER
bought so many books at one conference before. I rationalize that I'm
spending my year's book budget -- that 20 percent conference discount
offers great motivation to consolidate one's planned book-buying in one
busy weekend. Particularly when every book you can imagine -- new or used
-- on medieval topics is in one room for your perusal. (There was a
wrapped, mint copy of Queen Elizabeth's Wardobe Unlock'd for $180, still
unsold as of the end of the conference. If you want it, I can try to
locate the vendor's name for you.)

A few of my purchases were gifts for my husband (a Byzantine scholar and
church historian). But most were for me -- some history books in areas I'm
interested in (plague studies, household economics), some pretty art books
with neat pictures, a few on food (there were a LOT of new sources on
cooking, feasts, and kitchen science), and several books on manuscripts
(including a new dictionary of manuscript terminology, a 1959 used book on
the Lambeth Bible, and a not-yet-published volume on the Sherbourne
Missal; the latter is by Janet Backhouse, who has done a series of books
devoted to specific manuscripts).

My one extravagance was a slipcased facsimile of the Hours of Mary of
Burgundy -- since I covered this period in my lecture and actually used a
few slides from this book, I thought this edition would make a nice
memento, particularly when discounted to $67 from the list price of $83. I
passed on the facsimile of Gaston Phoebus' Hunting Book, though I did
drool for a while at the table of new library edition facsimiles (no
prices displayed, but these typically run at least $5,000 per volume). I
restrained myself from three or four marvelous new references on historic
scripts for the calligrapher, since I haven't picked up a pen in 10 years
and they would be wasted on me, but if this is of interest to you, check
with U. of Toronto Press (info on request).

On costume specifically, I finally got a copy of Piponnier & Mane's "Dress
in the Middle Ages" (Yale), mentioned here a few months ago. I started
reading it on the plane, and it looks fairly good, though I am already
frustrated at the author's repeated generalizations about "here's how they
made/bought clothes in the Middle Ages" with no distinction of where and
when particular practices originated, and no time/place framework for many
of the specific statements. They do have a general discussion of sources,
but that's no help later when they refer to "wills" or "account books" or
whatever in a general way.

I also picked up "Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of
Sumptuary Law," by Alan Hunt (St. Martin's Press). I haven't looked much
at it yet, but it seems fact-filled, and thus useful. I don't know if I
would have spent the list price of $50 or so, but the Sunday-morning
clearance price of $20 made this a no-brainer. 

Oh, yes, I also grabbed the last remaining display copy of the Henry VIII
inventories, after Drea ran into me on Sunday morning and told me that it,
too, was discounted 50 percent (only a few of the vendors do this). Tudor
is not my period, but this really was too good to pass up.

All in all, it's good that I brought an expandable suitcase this year, as
I ended up filling my extra 10 inches of luggage space with books. My
traveling companion found it hugely amusing as I struggled with the
logistics of my suddenly heavy luggage -- "Oh, no, Robin didn't buy any
books. Robin isn't planning her every move around these books." She will
no doubt find it suitably ironic when she hears that the next day -- after
my car broke down on the Baltimore-Washington Parkway and I had to hike to
a phone -- that I was stuck waiting for a tow for 3 hours, with NO BOOK
(they were all packed in my car, barely within sight in the distance, but
I had to stick by the phone).

Other than the car trouble, an excellent conference. If current plans play
out, there will be FOUR full sessions on costume next year (two by
DISTAFF, one special session on dress as a signifier of national/ethnic
identity, and one on the symbolic/interpretive significance of costume in
art and literature). If this interests you, consider going to the website
of the Medieval Congress <http://www.wmich.edu/medieval> and getting on
the mailing list. You'll get the call for papers and other information.
(And a lot of book catalogs.)

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 11 23:15:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:24:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
In-Reply-To: <3738AB5F.58916E7B@serv.net>
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-Poster: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>

I know the lady how posted the orginal question, (and indeed I often wear
the same style as her.)  The surcote she is referring to is the earlier
one, the cylas from the later part of the 13th cent., not the later gates
of hell, really cutin, showing of the waist one of the 14th cent.  

Does anyone have suggestions for embellishment on the 13th cent style
surcote?

Isobel fitz Gilbert
Mistress of Arts
Barony of Lions Gate, An Tir

mka
Peggy 


On Tue, 11 May 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > I am wondering what would be appropriate trim/embellishment for a sideless
> > surcote?   [snip]
> > Every time I put it on, my boyfriend comments about how plain it is...
> 
> Well, it would be very cool if you two had arms you could display.  Heraldic
> embellishment was quite popular in the the time of the surcotes and
> cotehardies.  Check out the Luttrell Psalter's front page to get a good idea
> of what I mean.  The biggest problem with sideless surcotes as we make them
> today is that there really isn't much out there to back up this particular
> style unless you look at royalty.  It would look absolutely lovely if you did
> fur down the front to the hips and around the openings and then sewed on big
> chunky metal buttons with some kind of stones.  Anything else wasn't done
> quite this extravagantly.  Unless it has heraldry or some kind of fur and
> plastron, they were fairly plain.  The fabric used would be the
> embellishment.  Silk brocades etc... would be lovely.
> 
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:59:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


-Greetings!

>Does anyone have suggestions for embellishment on the 13th cent style
>surcote?


A couple of ideas:  first, some statuary examples show what look like
buttons (completely ornamental) running down the from the neckline in front.
There are usually no more than three to five of them, they're small, and
they don't go past the bustline.  There are also the illuminations in the
Manasee (sp?) codex, which is a very early fourteenth century work, but
where the figures are still wearing the earlier style surcote.  Some of
these show a different-colored band around the neck, probably a few inches
wide.

Susan

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Subject: H-COST: FO - 19th c Fur Trade era
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

I finished some clothing for a fur trade era event for myself and my kids.

Justin - age 1 - Two gowns of a woven stripe cotton (kind of like a light
weight matress ticking stripe) based on gowns shown in Workwomen's Guide
(1838).  They have a casing in the front with drawstrings going both ways
that tie around the back. Two white cotton bonnets from patterns shown in
Workwomen's guide.  Striped stockings seemed to be shown in most of my
photos of children, so I cut down some adult women's socks and sewed them
into over the knee socks.  He wore alternately baby mocassins and sometimes
some small black lace up shoes. I really wanted to buy some baby shoes on
Ebay for him, but the doll makers buy them up.  Everyone thought he was a
little girl, but we explained that all babies wore skirts... He was very
cute and we got quite a few pictures with him next to and in an antique
19th c baby walker we'd picked up.  He also wore a Capote made for my older
son when he was a baby. Its out of a Hudson Bay 4 stripe blanket and has
red wool trimmings.

Jonny - age 5 1/2- Cotton/linen shirt, red with white ticking stripes.
Off-white twill fall-front long pants and a modified Greek Fisherman's hat,
sewn smaller to fit.  He wore plain black undecorated boots as we didn't
have any mocs or 19th c victorian child's shoes that fit.  He ended up so
scruffy he blended right in with the crowd.

Me - A Californio poor women's costume. A white cotton shift with 1/2
sleeves. Drawstring neckline. Ruffles around neck and sleeve. I wore some
white petticoats, some with eyelet decoration under a red cotton/linen work
skirt (the same fabric as my son's shirt). I wore a red silk sash with
bullion fringe that hung down almost to the hem. I wore an ecru silk
victorian shawl crossed over the bust as a modesty piece and tucked into
the sash at each side.  I had some bead necklaces and earrings and wore a
striped rebozo made of cotton. I had red cotton stockings with silk garters
and wore them with black slippers and sometimes with mocassins. I also had
a shorter print skirt that I wore with a different print blouse and changed
accessories to look more like a Southwestern Indian costume.  I have a
number of books on the 19th c southwest and early California for my costume
reference, but the most informative was the Costuming Guide written by
David Rickman for Sutter's Fort.

My husband already had some clothing that was ok for about 1840 and I made
him buy some additional pieces there... but he looked like a towney
compared to the grizzley mountain men.

Julie Adams




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 01:03:22 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

>Other than the car trouble, an excellent conference. If current plans play
>out, there will be FOUR full sessions on costume next year (two by
>DISTAFF, one special session on dress as a signifier of national/ethnic
>identity, and one on the symbolic/interpretive significance of costume in
>art and literature).

Any way you can get some or all of 'em switched back to Saturday?  Or even
Friday?  No matter where I'm working next year, I *know* I can attend on a
Saturday, and probably could arrange a Friday as well.

This is the first Kzoo I've missed in eight years <whine!>

I've also got another idea--do you know whether there might be interest in
building a website (perhaps under the aegis of DISTAFF) of some of these
presentations?  I've still got my paper from last year and lots of pictures
of the outfit (and can get more); and I'd love to see what I missed--and
this might be a really useful resource for folks on this list.

And Robin--I might have a potential paper giver for you, or at least someone
you should talk to, because what she's doing is way cool!

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 02:08:24 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 02:14:28 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Hood frames ( was: Medieval Congress Redux)
In-Reply-To: <o8XegBA+1HO3Iwaj@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Drea, trust me to read a whole very interesting post and pick up on one
>hat snippet:

You weren't the only one.  :)

>Were these actually labelled as such?  What did they look like?  I have
>been to the museum and saw two bent-wire frames, but they just said for
>"hoods".  They were sort of angled but not very, and I wasn't sure if
>they were gables or the later angled Anglo/French hood (a la Mary
>Tudor). Can you give me any clues?

Which museum?  Are there pictures available?  I would love any primary
source info pertaining to 16th century headgear.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Toe Socks
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:36:17 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

There are certain things in this world that should be ignored or forgotten
such as the accidental indiscretions of friends, whining children, Andrew
Lloyd-Webber, and toe socks.


-C.
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



We often discuss costume in film, and last weekend I finally rented the video 
"The Mambo Kings" (from a book, "The Mambo Kings Sing Songs of Love"). Great 
film, by the way, very different from typical Hollywood movies in both plot 
and subject.

Anyway, the subject was early 1960s (62, I think) New York City and clubs 
catering to the mambo dance craze. Most of the characters are Cubans. The 
costumes are fantastic. Everyone dressed up all the time, according to this 
(and to my own relatives, NON-Cubans, who are always lamenting how no one 
dresses up anymore). Everything was still that late 50s look, not the hippie 
late 60s. I don't know much about this period, but it looked good to me -- 
except maybe for the Afro-Cuban lady club owner, whom I am guessing is some 
famous Latin singer and had some pretty weird outfits.

I especially appreciated that everything in the movie looked clean and fresh 
and new. No sepia filters in sight. The director apparently decided that the 
past was not all dirty and ugly, even in nightclubs where people were 
occasionally murdered and in meat-packing plants.

So Peggy, I don't know if this is on your film list of good costumes, but I'd 
put it there!

Gail Finke

PS: The most inauthentic thing I noticed was a car crash -- no seatbelts, 
obviously -- but also no blood, no horrible injuries. In fact, two people 
weren't injured at all. Having seen the NOVA special on designing cars to 
eliminate injuries, I know how inauthentic THAT was!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 08:56:27 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

oh I am so sorry for you!!   how sad.  the only thing in that WHOLE list
I agree with is whining children, and that is ONLY a question of home
training so it is indeed a temporary matter. 


But "accidental" indescrettions?  um, without starting a whole LITANY of
OT flaming, I'm leaving that one TOTALLY alone and I'm backing AWAY from
the keyboard now...accidental indeed....

Christopher Ballis wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> 
> There are certain things in this world that should be ignored or forgotten
> such as the accidental indiscretions of friends, whining children, Andrew
> Lloyd-Webber, and toe socks.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 09:00:53 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Toe Socks
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Ah, get 'em!    Argh?  Toe socks are happy!  Toe socks make ya feel like a
kid again... anything that does that is good.

Sarah

PS.  Whining children should not be forgotten lest you forget how bad it is
and decide you want one. ;-)  And, why ALW?  I LOVE his stuff... then again,
maybe I'm odd...



>There are certain things in this world that should be ignored or forgotten
>such as the accidental indiscretions of friends, whining children, Andrew
>Lloyd-Webber, and toe socks.
>
>
>-C.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/11/99 6:56:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stitchwitch@excite.com writes:

<< Where might I go to find out if the silly thing has any value?
  >>

Try putting it up on E-bay.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/11/99 6:59:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
msmclean@interlog.com writes:

<< Would we really believe a queen in polyester, though?  >>

We did in the 70s!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 09:13:27 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

the whole reason I WANT them is for my 2 neices, and 2 nephews who would
totally FLIP  they range in age from 3 to 10.!! they've never seen them,
and it's my DUTY as an aunt to enlighten them. :o)

I'm ALWAYS on the look out for outrageous NEETO BEAN stuff for them.  I
once found a GOOGLIE eye book for the 4 year old!  it had LARGE weighted
eyeballs and all the pages were cut out to accomodate them, and the
story was about fish and the eyes were worked into each picture! As you
read the story, the eyes moved.

and, I love Andrew Lloyd Webber too, so u are NOT weird.  I'm not much
of an over all musical fan, but I like what he did.

Sarah Toney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> 
> Ah, get 'em!    Argh?  Toe socks are happy!  Toe socks make ya feel like a
> kid again... anything that does that is good.
> 
> Sarah
> 
> PS......And, why ALW?  I LOVE his stuff... then again, maybe I'm odd...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 09:23:21 1999
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>


>the whole reason I WANT them is for my 2 neices, and 2 nephews
See, I want them for ME. ;-)  I'm still a kid and will stay that way 'til I
die. ;-)


>and, I love Andrew Lloyd Webber too, so u are NOT weird.  I'm not much
>of an over all musical fan, but I like what he did.

Ah, see... I've been a musician, sometimes professionally, sometimes not (I
quit 'cuz I couldn't handle my producer), since I was 7.  Webber has always
been my favorite, especially after I met him. ;-)

Sarah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 09:50:04 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone have suggestions for embellishment on the 13th cent style
> >surcote?
> 
> A couple of ideas:  first, some statuary examples show what look like
> buttons (completely ornamental) running down the from the neckline in
> front. There are usually no more than three to five of them, they're
> small, and they don't go past the bustline.  There are also the
> illuminations in the Manasee (sp?) codex, which is a very early
> fourteenth century work, but where the figures are still wearing the
> earlier style surcote.  Some of these show a different-colored band
> around the neck, probably a few inches wide.

I can also see a person who couldn't afford fur in the time period
substituting trim as nice as they could get (or just being obsinate like
me and using trim because *I* liked it! <grin>).  Unless someone had
specifically painted someone doing that I think it's unlikely that an
example would have survived...since the trim would have been removed and
used elsewhere when it was inherited by someone else or when the wearer
tired of the dress.  I'd be tempted to go look at source material of
written descriptions of dress but 1) I have children and no time and 2)
I think I have the flu....so I think I'll lay down now...which is a pity
because I have a lovely teal early Tudor dress cut out and ready to sew
(with a rust & think white striped underskirt).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 10:35:43 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Janet Arnold Scholarship Fund
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

The recent issue of the CSA Newsletter had the following notice:

<<The Costume Society of America has established a special fund commemorating 
Janet Arnold.  Contributions will be used to help support a scholarship in 
Arnold's name to promote international costume scholarship through the 
investigation of artifacts and related materials in continuation of her work. 
 Criteria for the scholarship and its initiation are being developed in 
conjunction with the executors of Arnold's estate.  Plans are being drawn to 
arrange for matching funds to increase individual donations from the 
Society's Projects, Awards, Grants, Education, and Services fund.  
Contributions can be made by check or credit card (Visa or MasterCard).  Make 
checks payable to The Costume Society of America with memo disignating Janet 
Arnold Fund.  Mail to the Costume Society of America, 55 Edgewater Drive, PO 
Box 73, Earleville, MD  21919.>>

This answers my earlier question regarding how we could all best honor Janet 
Arnold's work.

Joan
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Heraldry heraldry heraldry.  Or nothing at all, except maybe the bias trim she is
already using.

> I know the lady how posted the orginal question, (and indeed I often wear
> the same style as her.)  The surcote she is referring to is the earlier
> one, the cylas from the later part of the 13th cent., not the later gates
> of hell, really cutin, showing of the waist one of the 14th cent.
> Does anyone have suggestions for embellishment on the 13th cent style
> surcote?

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Janet Arnold Scholarship Fund
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>



What a wonderful idea!  This really is the best way to honor her work and
her memory.  Thanks for posting this info.

Drea

> 
> <<The Costume Society of America has established a special fund commemorating 
> Janet Arnold.  Contributions will be used to help support a scholarship in 
> Arnold's name to promote international costume scholarship through the 
> investigation of artifacts and related materials in continuation of her work. 
>  Criteria for the scholarship and its initiation are being developed in 
> conjunction with the executors of Arnold's estate.  Plans are being drawn to 
> arrange for matching funds to increase individual donations from the 
> Society's Projects, Awards, Grants, Education, and Services fund.  
> Contributions can be made by check or credit card (Visa or MasterCard).  Make 
> checks payable to The Costume Society of America with memo disignating Janet 
> Arnold Fund.  Mail to the Costume Society of America, 55 Edgewater Drive, PO 
> Box 73, Earleville, MD  21919.>>
> 
> This answers my earlier question regarding how we could all best honor Janet 
> Arnold's work.
> 
> Joan
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
In-Reply-To: <008801be9c36$6e70b600$b31bbfa8@dsc>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


Robin:
> >If current plans play
> >out, there will be FOUR full sessions on costume next year (two by
> >DISTAFF, one special session on dress as a signifier of national/ethnic
> >identity, and one on the symbolic/interpretive significance of costume in
> >art and literature).

Susan:
> Any way you can get some or all of 'em switched back to Saturday?  Or even
> Friday?  No matter where I'm working next year, I *know* I can attend on a
> Saturday, and probably could arrange a Friday as well.

Ha. I feel glad to get my sessions at all -- not much choice on timing. 
The Congress has enough trouble scheduling 500 sessions without
double-booking anywone, so you can't request specific days. This year, my
DISTAFF partner, Gale Owen-Crocker, was actually scheduled to give an
Anglo-Saxon paper elsewhere during the second DISTAFF session, so she
missed Drea, Anne, and me. If we can avoid that next year, I'll be happy
enough. (I do hope, though, that we don't end up in the graveyard shift,
8:30 a.m. Sunday. That happened to us one year!) 

> This is the first Kzoo I've missed in eight years <whine!>

And we missed you! :-)

> I've also got another idea--do you know whether there might be interest in
> building a website (perhaps under the aegis of DISTAFF) of some of these
> presentations?  I've still got my paper from last year and lots of pictures
> of the outfit (and can get more); and I'd love to see what I missed--and
> this might be a really useful resource for folks on this list.

I think that papers/presentations need to remain in the control of the
individual researchers. Some of us are holding our papers for specific
publishing avenues; some of the talks simply aren't in publishable form.
If anyone -- like you -- does want to publish yours on the web, feel free.
I believe Drea was talking about putting some of her 16th-century Flemish
material on her own (wonderful!) Elizabethan Costuming site. There are
many great costume sites out there already, with different and specific
focuses, and many of them would be great places to showcase these papers.
Being web-impaired anyway, I wouldn't be eager to try to create yet
another site just for DISTAFF, particularly since the only thing our
papers have in common is that they were all presented at Kalamazoo!

> And Robin--I might have a potential paper giver for you, or at least someone
> you should talk to, because what she's doing is way cool!

Write me.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: The V-necked gown (lecture summary, LONG)
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>



Several of you have asked for details on my presentation on the 15th
century V-necked gown. I'm afraid I can't give you the entire lecture here
-- it depends in large part on the copious use of slides, and in any case
it's in the form of lecture notes. But I'll try to summarize it in this
post. I hope this is of some help.

--->  If you keep a copy of this post, or if you pass it to anyone else,
      please include this statement of authorship: by Robin Netherton,
      based on a presentation at the 1999 International Congress on
      Medieval Studies in Kalamazoo. I hope eventually to publish this in
      full version, with proper sources and illustrations, so please note
      that I retain all copyright and publication rights. In other words,
      this summary is not to be posted on any website (other than the
      H-COST archives) or distributed in printed form. (I'm a professional
      writer, so this is something I've learned to specify up front.)
      Personal use is OK as long as you keep this paragraph with the text.

The lecture reported my conclusions after an examination of hundreds of
images of 15th-century noblewomen's gowns, primarily from France,
Flanders, and England. I used paintings, illuminations, brasses,
sculptures, tapestries, and other artworks. I was looking specifically at
the V-necked overgown (called Yorkist or Burgundian by some authors). My
thesis was as follows: Many costume overviews present the V-necked style
simply as the dominant style of the century, and do not delve much into
its variations, leaving the impression that the fashion was fairly stable
(far more so than the headdress of this period, which was highly variable
and provides much fodder for costume writers). However, a close
examination of the images shows that there are at least two highly
distinct styles in this century, which differ in nearly every facet of
silhouette and construction -- but because they share a fur-trimmed,
V-shaped neckline, the difference is typically overlooked.

In analyzing the first style (typical of 1440), I showed how it developed
in many small, easy-to-track steps from the houppelande of 1400 or so. The
houppelande is built as a loose gown, worn over a fitted underdress that
shapes the figure. Among other characteristics, it has a long center front
opening and a high fur-lined collar. A high, wide belt draws the folds of
the gown close under the bust. Over the first few decades of the century,
the collar first turns back to show its fur lining, and then becomes
subsumed into the center front slit, which is pulled open to form a
V-shape. The front vertical opening typically continues down below the
belt, where the two sides are pulled shut with lacing. The V starts as a
deeply horizontal shape and widens gradually over time, reaching about a
45-degree angle by the 1450s. It then stays fairly constantly at that
angle into the 1460s.

In the lecture, I described some of the considerations involved in
reproducing this style. For one thing, you DON'T want to cut your fabric
into a V-shape, because the cut edges will stretch on the bias, and the
neckline won't hold -- as I'm sure many people here have discovered for
themselves. Rather, for the earliest V-necks, you start with a vertical
slit and pull it open to a narrow V, then cut your shoulders/armholes/side
seams accordingly. To achieve the slightly wider V-necks, you angle your
cut slightly off the straight grain in the center front opening -- but the
V itself is formed mostly by pulling the sides apart, not by cutting, and
the slit still forms a continuous line passing below the belt. The lacing
that draws the lower part of the V together is visible in many images (see
portraits by Van der Weyden, Petrus Christus and others from the 1440s or
so, for instance).

Late in the 1460s, the second version appears -- the V-shape is now
suddenly quite wide, definitely horizontal in feel. Instead of a slit that
is opened into a V, the V is clearly a separately cut shape. The sides of
the V are no longer two long lines pulled into parallel; now they butt up
endwise to form a short seam at the point of the V. Many examples (see
some of Memling's portraits, for instance) have a gentle curved or scoop
shape to them. At the same time, the body has been changing -- in the
1460s it starts to get tighter, as do the sleeves, and by the 1470s, this
is quite obvious.

My key point was that this later version can't be achieved with the
earlier cut -- you can't cut a vertical slit and pull it open to this wide
an angle. The earlier cut reaches its limit of expansion at about a
45-degree angle -- and not surprisingly, the widening of the V-neck had
stalled at that angle in the 1450s and 1460s. So, I proposed that around
the end of the 1460s, in a continuing effort to widen the V-neck even
further (fashion details often progress toward extremes), dressmakers
adopted a different cut to achieve this aim.

I also proposed that the new cut was NOT a completely new approach, which
would not be likely given that the new look appeared virtually
simultaneously across France, Flanders, and England. Instead, I suggested
that dressmakers adopted the cut of the *other* existing body garment of
this time -- the fitted dress that, all this time, has been worn as an
undergarment beneath the V-necked overgown. The fitted dress, which is
much plainer looking, appears regularly in the artwork, but it's typically
overlooked in general costume overviews. Still, the fitted construction
appears in everyday dress of women of all classes in informal scenes; it
also appears as an underdress in the occasional pictures of noblewomen who
are deliberately depicted in partial dress. (Van der Weyden liked to show
certain saints in this style, but you can find it on non-saintly figures
as well.) Presumably, a fitted underdress is also being worn under all
those V-necked gowns. So this would be a familiar construction for
dressmakers, and a logical one to adapt for the later V-necked style --
particularly since they had already been moving to a more fitted look for
the V-necked overgown, and surely had been using some elements of the
standard fitted construction to achieve that.

(The fitted style has of course undergone a few changes in the 15th
century. In some cases it's shown with a waistline seam, and in a very few
cases with princess seams, but generally, when seams are shown, the
standard remains the four-piece-plus-gore construction that was typical at
the beginning of the century. As a middle-class overdress, it typically
has long sleeves, but when presented as an underdress, it often has short
sleeves, which makes sense given that the overdress by this time had tight
long sleeves. In images showing a short-sleeved underdress worn alone, the
woman typically has contrasting sleeves pinned onto the short sleeves to
cover her arms (over the shift). The short-sleeved underdress plus
pinned-on long sleeves appears to stand as an acceptable outer layer for
informal public wear, equivalent to a long-sleeved fitted dress; I have
seen no sign that the pinned-on sleeves were used for any other reason
than to make the short-sleeved fitted dress respectable when worn alone.)

So, my conclusion was that the later version of the V-necked gown was
actually a fitted dress that had been gussied up for company -- that is,
it was given the details of fur cuffs, high belt, and furred V-neck that
were associated with the existing upper-class dress, but the body
construction remained that of the fitted style. I backed this up with a
variety of slides of late V-necked dresses that clearly showed the body
silhouette of the fitted dress, but with a V-shape grafted over the usual
boat-shaped neckline. Given the looks of the sources, there was probably
more than one way to convert the fitted design to the V-necked style.
Sometimes the V was clearly scoop-shaped, not angular; sometimes it
appeared to be straight fur pieces laid over a dress that might have had a
boat-shaped neck. It's also possible that the curve of the fitted-dress
neckline (which I had discussed at length in an earlier lecture) was cut
deeper in the center and then pulled straight, providing an elasticity
that would assist the fit and also achieving the V-necked illusion. 

Finally, I showed how the next step was to drop the grafted-on elements.
Whereas a V-neck and high belt were originally functional parts of the
early cut (the V-neck originating in a turnback of the center opening and
the high belt used to confine the bulk of the gown), they had long since
become strictly decorative. Toward the end of the century, they're dropped
altogether; you can find many English brasses in the 1480s or so that have
a V-neck (or a scooped neck with V-flaring trim) but no high belt,
displaying the fitted construction in the body. In Flanders, eventually
the V-neck itself disappears, but the underlying scoop remains cut deep,
and the little triangle of fabric that used to fill in the V-neck is now
used to fill in the scoop.

Oh, that triangle. This question came up along the way, of course. What
*is* that little piece of fabric that shows in the bottom of the V? Is it
the underdress showing out, or is it a fake layer -- what some authors
today call a placket? My own sense, as I worked on this paper, was that
both theories are right, but in different eras. In the earliest versions
of the V-necked gown, I think we see an underdress. One clue that suggests
this is color. In examples from the 1440s or so, that triangle might be
any of a variety of colors, and when we're fortunate enough to see some
underdress visible at the hem, too, it's typically the same color, which
would suggest that the triangle and the underskirt are both part of a
single full-length underdress.

However, as the V-neckline widens and the body tightens, the triangle
becomes larger and more prominent. It's at this point that it also starts
appearing always in either red or black. It's hard to make a fitted
underdress lie this smooth and flat, because it's busy doing the job of
shaping the bust. A fitted underdress also doesn't have that wide straight
line across the top, but rather a boat neck -- which looks straight enough
when only the center part is showing, but becomes more obvious as the
V-neck widens. So I suspect that by the 1460s or so, they started to add a
separate piece, pinned onto the underdress, to provide a smooth surface
and a straight upper edge.

This was my working hypothesis -- and then hurrah, I found one good image
of what appears to be such a piece in use. It's in Rene d'Anjou's _Cueur
d'Amours Espris_, which was published in a nice illustrated edition some
years back as "King Rene's Book of Love." Mine's hardback (Braziller,
1975) but it came out in paperback later and may still be available; many
libraries should have it. I'm stunned I never noticed this before, as I've
seen this picture a hundred times -- but it's a night scene, so it's easy
to pass by the details unless you're looking closely. In a preceding
picture, you see two women (all the characters in the story are
allegorical, but they're dressed as real people) in a boat, wearing
V-necked gowns. In the next picture, you see them approaching an island,
and by now they're wearing only their short-sleeved underdresses.  One has
her back to us, but the other is facing us, and you can see that her
short-sleeved underdress is laced with a gap in the front, showing her
white linen chemise. That white linen should be visible up to the top of
the neckline, but there's another piece of fabric in the way, covering the
top few inches of the gap. If you look closely, you can see it's a
rectangular piece, wider than the gap itself, placed over the top of the
lacing. The rectangle is black, whereas the underdress is painted as navy. 
That rectangle is what would be visible in the triangle of the V-neck. I
can't come up with any other interpretation, and the picture is pretty
clear once you look closely. 

I think that covers the high points. I hope this summary answers most of
the questions people have been asking.

--Robin Netherton




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 14:37:37 1999
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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:44:36 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

I got the Queen's paper doll set last week. You mean the coloring book is
even better?
~Meryld

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Wednesday, 12 May, 1999 08:12
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars



-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I just got back from the grocer and bought a coloring book with all the
costumes drawn in them! There are LOTS of them and they are good drawings! I
can't wait to make the handmaiden's dress! and there are two formal dresses
that are so detailed, at least in my eye, I know I can recreate them! I am
sooooo happy!

Does anyone know of similar coloring books out there for costume examples?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:39:27 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi list,

Karla wrote:
> I am wondering what would be appropriate trim/embellishment for a
sideless
> surcote? 

There should be no trim on a sideless (it turns out to be a sleeveless
one...) surcotte. Medieval people mostly just turned the edge of a garment
into a rollseam and fastened that. They may have used bias tape on the
neckline or armhole, but you don't see that: it stays on the inside. There
is no archeological evidence for (silk) bias tape before the second quarter
of the 14th c (Textiles and Clothing, p. 158-161.), but it may have
occurred earlier.

> I made one last year, and just used that tape binding stuff on the
> armholes and neckline in a contrasting color, to finish it.  It's bright
> red with royal blue trim, 

I have never seem contrasting trim in 13th or 14th c clothing. In fact: I
have never seen trim on any of the costumes of this period.

> and I wear it over a white underdress (yes I
> know I should actually have a cotehardie or something under it as well :)

Cottes for a more than really poor lady were hardly ever white.

> Every time I put it on, my boyfriend comments about how plain it is...
and
> I agree, it is quite plain, especially considering that I don't even wear
> a belt with it (yet).
> 
Medieval clothing was very plain, if you were not a royal or a noble on
certain occasions. Most of it was one colour for each garment (except for
mi-parti livery or wandering minstrels dress). Knights, nobles and
sometimes royalty wore heraldic surcottes at special occasions, others had
patterned silks and a very few had brocades (from the late 13th c onwards).
The attraction of medieval dress is all in the fall of the skirts, which
are almost always as wide as one could pay for and as far as it was
comfortable. The other attraction was in the colour: a single colour
woollen broadcloth is in itself very beautiful and has no need of
embellishing. Your boyfriend sounds like he's being raised on the Middle
Ages according to Hollywood (aren't we all :-)). Don't let it get you down.

By the way: never wear a belt over it, except if you are a busy housewife
of the working classes.

Later Peggy wrote:
> I know the lady how posted the orginal question, (and indeed I often wear
> the same style as her.)  The surcote she is referring to is the earlier
> one, the cylas from the later part of the 13th cent., not the later gates
> of hell, really cutin, showing of the waist one of the 14th cent.  
> 
Nobility in Germany sometimes has a collar with it (see Manesse MS); it is
probably (partly) embroidered with gold thread; it almost alway is depicted
as of a yellow colour. The sleeveless surcotte is in fact nothing more than
another layer, without having to wear another pair of sleeves (4 pairs of
sleeves are not very comfortable).

> Does anyone have suggestions for embellishment on the 13th cent style
> surcote?

Don't; let the cloth speak for itself!

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 14:52:19 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:11:58 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I just got back from the grocer and bought a coloring book with all the
costumes drawn in them! There are LOTS of them and they are good drawings! I
can't wait to make the handmaiden's dress! and there are two formal dresses
that are so detailed, at least in my eye, I know I can recreate them! I am
sooooo happy!

Does anyone know of similar coloring books out there for costume examples?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 16:13:40 1999
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From: Scott Hulett <mhull@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: The V-necked gown (lecture summary, LONG)
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-Poster: Scott Hulett <mhull@earthlink.net>

Wow, Robin, what a great paper!
I'm truly sorry to have missed it. Super conclusions and really useful as
well. I could see what you were doing in my minds eye as I read it, thanks for
posting it. I look forward to your completed work!
Cheers, jd


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 16:35:56 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Star Wars?
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Just out of inane curiosity... I know one of you had a son who was in line
for SW tickets.  Did he get them?  Just curious, since the guys in our
office just called and bought 60 of them over the phone with no problem.

Sarah


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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:51:53 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

Robin said,
>I think that papers/presentations need to remain in the control of the
>individual researchers.

Oh, I certainly agree with that.  What I had in mind was more of a central
"resource" website with links to pages by anyone who wanted to put theirs on
the Internet. Wouldn't have to be too fancy...And if a paper's heading
towards traditional publication, it's less of a candidate for this, because
presumably someday we'll all be able to buy the book or journal in which it
appears.

I often make this offer to SCA colleagues, so I guess I'll make it here:  If
anyone has costume research (any period, although medieval/Renaissance is my
real interest) that you would like up on the Web but lack the skills for
getting it there, contact me.  I can HTML it (nothing fancy, but you don't
necessarily want that on something of this nature), scan pictures, and
assemble them for you.  I have a Geocities cite where they can be posted, or
you could just take everything for your own site.  If you wanted the former,
I can set up a permissions file for you that sets out parameters for use of
your work so that you retain copyright and control.  I am *particularly*
interested in folks who are not only good historical costumers, but active
researchers involved in analysis and interpretation of the various kinds of
evidence.

Or, if you have a page already with this kind of info, I'd love to hear
about it and get a link set up off my own site!

>Being web-impaired anyway, I wouldn't be eager to try to create yet
>another site just for DISTAFF, particularly since the only thing our
>papers have in common is that they were all presented at Kalamazoo!


True enough, but I think that diversity is one of the strengths of the
Kalamazoo sessions--I've certainly gained a much better appreciation for the
whole range of medieval clothing through attending them, and learned all
kinds of things about cut, fit, materials, colors, and how to look at
sources.  Terribly valuable stuff.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 17:08:41 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:00:41 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

Henk said,
>Don't; let the cloth speak for itself!


He's right.  For the thirteenth century particularly, the beauty of the
style is in the drape of the fabric, and if you've managed to get wool (or a
blend substitute with the same look), your clothing will absolutely scream
"Middle Ages!"  You can also do some nice things with layers, particularly
in the cotte/kirtle/"underdress" and the surcote. And if you use gore and
gusset construction, you'll look even more historically accurate.

This brings up a question:  Where does the term "cyclas" come from?  It
sounds Greek, but I've never run across it in use in literary references
about clothing (accounts books and the like, which do use "robe",
"cote/cotte/coat",  "smock," and "shirt"--this is in England, though the
accounts are in Latin).  Was it actually used in the 13th/early 14th century
to refer to a sleeveless surcote?  Some costume books show a "cyclas" as
sort of a tabard for women, with open sides; the closest I've seen to this
is the scapular worn by some of the monastic orders, including some of the
women.

Susan

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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:55:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
In-Reply-To: <003401be9cb9$4518f960$031cbfa8@dsc>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


On Wed, 12 May 1999, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> I often make this offer to SCA colleagues, so I guess I'll make it here:  If
> anyone has costume research (any period, although medieval/Renaissance is my
> real interest) that you would like up on the Web but lack the skills for
> getting it there, contact me.  I can HTML it (nothing fancy, but you don't
> necessarily want that on something of this nature), scan pictures, and
> assemble them for you.  I have a Geocities cite where they can be posted, or
> you could just take everything for your own site.

What a generous offer, Susan. I'll make sure to mention it to our
presenters who don't have traditional routes to publication.

Could you post your URL here for us?

--Robin



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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:00:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I bought a paper doll book with the queen's costumes in it.  They are
colored "pictures", not photos, but pretty good anyways.

Joan B.

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: More on the Medieval Congress
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 20:10:09 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

>What a generous offer, Susan. I'll make sure to mention it to our
>presenters who don't have traditional routes to publication.
>
>Could you post your URL here for us?


My main page is at www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/5145 .  That's
currently the Library of St. Nicholas, my SCA-targeted articles site.  If
interest is great enough, I can create a costume sub-page in my directory
which would not be just SCA-related.  (Currently, there are a few
clothing-related articles on the site, but as a whole, it's articles of all
sorts....)

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 20:44:16 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Star Wars?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:57:07 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Hi, that was me, Amanda Reeves, from Austin, Texas.

Will and his friends camped out on the sidewalk of the theater beginning
Saturday morning. They got a spot that was 9th in line. Tickets went on
sale today (Wednesday). They had to strike camp by noon today and stand in
line. There ended up being hundreds of campers. (I even had a student-I
teach High School - come in during his class all grubby asking for his work
so he could take it with him to do while waiting in line). The manager of
the theater had everything very much under control. They had to all sign
waivers when they set up camp - there could be no more than 10 people
camping in a group - and each person could purchase no more than 12 tickets
each. The manager checked on each group throughout the day every day.

It was memory making for these kids (I say kids, Will will be 20 in July). 
He's been home asleep all afternoon :-)

AR

----------
> From: Sarah Toney <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: OT: Star Wars?
> Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 3:50 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
> 
> Just out of inane curiosity... I know one of you had a son who was in
line
> for SW tickets.  Did he get them?  Just curious, since the guys in our
> office just called and bought 60 of them over the phone with no problem.
> 
> Sarah
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 21:46:43 1999
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Message-ID: <373A3134.30EAD305@thibault.org>
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 21:57:10 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Wow!  Thanks, Robin.

A question on terminology.

"Boat-neck."  I learned this term to mean a very horizontal neck shape,
reaching from shoulder to shoulder by the shortest possible method,
nearly as if the neckline was a straight edge of cloth, front and back,
no shaping.  But I don't think that's what you mean when you say "boat
neck."  Could you expand a little on this term?

--
Once again let me stress that I don't think that problems like rudeness
and littering are as important as, say, the Greenhouse Effect. I'm just
saying that the nonjerks of the world should try not to be intimidated
by the jerks.  -- Dave Barry, as TidyMan
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 22:13:19 1999
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From: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199905112040.PAA15237@ionet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Places to shop in Charlotte NC??
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:30:21 -0700
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-Poster: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>

Got several responses for Houston (Thanks to the 'net, I can find
anything-wouldn't it be neat if my rental car had a GPS unit?).  Now lurking
for Charlotte.    I am so thrilled, I haven't been able to post for months
and its finally working!!  Thanks Elizabeth-you are like some Goddess out
there!
----- Original Message -----
From: <deanq@ionet.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 1:40 PM
Subject: H-COST: Places to shop in Houston Tx and Charlotte NC??


>
> -Poster: deanq@ionet.net
>
> Any suggestions on Fabric etc places in Houston and Charlotte?
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 22:17:07 1999
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From: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199905111531.HAA15969@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Dyed Fur in 15th and 16th century?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:34:41 -0700
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-Poster: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>

Anyone know of any reference to dyed fur to match costume in this period?  I
am creating a costume for a Lymond of Crawford character and began to
wonder?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 22:27:16 1999
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From: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199905101958.NAA10432@bsumail.idbsu.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rit or bleach?
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:45:03 -0700
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-Poster: "DEAN QUACKENBUSH" <deanq@paloverde.com>

Hmm-be careful with bleach!  You may be okay with the cotton/poly, but I
bought a bolt of silk/acetate brocade in orange (I mean -mean orange) and
tried to bleach it.  It changes the structure of the fabric, and causes it
to be brittle.  It tears with slight pressure.  I have had success with
overdying it.  Awesome texture!  Has anyone tried some of the more expensive
dyes (tinfix?) are they worth it?
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Yordy <abuyordy@cobfac.boisestate.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 1:58 PM
Subject: H-COST: Rit or bleach?


>
> -Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.boisestate.edu>
>
> Sorry if we've gone over this before. I obviously wasn't paying
> attention.
>
> Anyway, I recently bought a linen-look fabric (poly/cotton) for
> $.44/yard. It's not bad fabric, it's just that the color is a cross
> between salmon and hunter orange (let's just say that the
> saleslady put on her sunglasses to cut it.) I was going to use for
> making patterns, muslins, etc. so washed it in hot water to
> preshrink. Found that it faded a bit. Wash wondering if I could
> make it usable by fading it more.
>
> Have heard where people use Rit dye remover (I believe that's what
> they called it). Was also wondering if I just added some bleach if
> that might do the job (or will bleach streak and do the tie-dye
> look?). I don't mind the color so much as I just don't want my dress
> to compete with the florescent lighting.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Linda Yordy
> Phone: 208/426-4034
> Boise State University
> Center for Management Development
> 1910 University Drive
> Boise, ID  83725-1660
> ********************************************************
> Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch
> directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 22:31:41 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:37:02 -0500
From: jennifer guyton <caitlynmew@fast.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
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-Poster: jennifer guyton <caitlynmew@fast.net>

Hi..
I am a new subscriber to this list and saw all the interest in Star Wars
items. I had recently put a board game called "Escape from the Death
Star" on ebay, but recieved no bids. Its still in the shrink wrap and its
from 1977..mint condition. Do you know of anyone who would be interested
in it?
Thanks..
Jennifer

Broneske wrote:

> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
> I bought a paper doll book with the queen's costumes in it.  They are
> colored "pictures", not photos, but pretty good anyways.
>
> Joan B.
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:12:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: The V-necked gown 
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


On Wed, 12 May 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> "Boat-neck."  I learned this term to mean a very horizontal neck shape,
> reaching from shoulder to shoulder by the shortest possible method,
> nearly as if the neckline was a straight edge of cloth, front and back,
> no shaping.  But I don't think that's what you mean when you say "boat
> neck."  Could you expand a little on this term?

Good point -- costume terminology is used so variably. I think of a
boat-neck as a shallow scoop, wider than it is deep, like the curved shape
of the bottom of a boat in a child's drawing. 

Of course, for all I know, I may be the only person in the world using
that definition. I have no idea where I picked it up, which may mean I
just made the assumption.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 23:14:11 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 20:25:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
In-Reply-To: <373A48DE.C7DE2ACD@fast.net>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:37 PM 5/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: jennifer guyton <caitlynmew@fast.net>
>
>Hi..
>I am a new subscriber to this list and saw all the interest in Star Wars
>items. I had recently put a board game called "Escape from the Death
>Star" on ebay, but recieved no bids. Its still in the shrink wrap and its
>from 1977..mint condition. Do you know of anyone who would be interested
>in it?
>Thanks..
>Jennifer
          So what value would you set on it?  My friend's daughter is Star
Wars nuts, but they don't have scads of money. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 23:37:47 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Broneske wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
> 
> I bought a paper doll book with the queen's costumes in it.  They are
> colored "pictures", not photos, but pretty good anyways.
> 
> Joan B.
> 

Where are people buying the paperdolls?? Toy stores?

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 12 23:57:52 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: paper dolls
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I got mine at a Rite-Aid drug store!

Joan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 00:36:18 1999
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> > I bought a paper doll book with the queen's costumes in it.  They are
> > colored "pictures", not photos, but pretty good anyways.
> 
> Where are people buying the paperdolls?? Toy stores?

I saw some at WalMart.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 00:46:45 1999
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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: paper dolls
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 21:55:17 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

I live in Seattle and got mine at Fred Meyer. They are published by Random
House. They have colored drawings and photos. At $3.99 a better deal than to
spend a fortune on buying mags so I could get photos of the Queen's many
gowns. They were also selling the Phantom Menace Movie Scrapbook and
Scrapbook, the Ultimate Insiders Guide to the Movie at $7.99 each. Lots of
great photos.
~G

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Broneske
Sent: Wednesday, 12 May, 1999 21:09
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: paper dolls



-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I got mine at a Rite-Aid drug store!

Joan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 01:35:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 01:45:04 EDT
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 5/12/1999 20:51:34 Pacific Daylight Time, 
susanf@netwiz.net writes:  << Where are people buying the paperdolls?? Toy 
stores?  Susan F. >>

Susan, Tom Tierney publishes a wonderful series of paper dolls from almost 
every period in history. He also has many series dedicated to stars like 
Vivien Leigh, which include repros of the GWTW costumes, as well as Streetcar 
Named Desire, etc. He does Marilyn Monroe, and others.  They are in print and 
are available through Amazon.com, or at Barnes & Noble.

angil
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
W. Shakespeare
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 02:07:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 02:16:51 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Rit or bleach?
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

I would be inclinded to strip the dyestuff off (ie remove the dye with a
dye remover). If by bleach you mean household bleach it will very probably
ruin the fabric damaging the structure and so on. fabrics arn't keep on
alot of treaments, they will stand it befor dyeing, and you can blech post
dyeing with one method but this used to lift the colour of the fabric
rather than remove the colour.

CXommercially overdyeing is always attenpted without stripping where
possible because of the danger to the fabric structure.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 02:22:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:31:11 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 5/12/1999 20:51:34 Pacific Daylight Time,
> susanf@netwiz.net writes:  << Where are people buying the paperdolls?? Toy
> stores?  Susan F. >>
> 
> Susan, Tom Tierney publishes a wonderful series of paper dolls from almost
> every period in history. He also has many series dedicated to stars like
> Vivien Leigh, which include repros of the GWTW costumes, as well as Streetcar
> Named Desire, etc. He does Marilyn Monroe, and others.  They are in print and
> are available through Amazon.com, or at Barnes & Noble.
> 

I meant the Star Wars paper dolls.

Susan
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 06:21:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 06:31:11 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Places to shop in Charlotte NC??
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

If you have transportation, you will want to visit Mary Jo's Cloth Shop, 
which is in Gastonia, a short ride out of Charlotte.  (Sorry I can't give you 
directions, but you shouldn't have a problem finding someone who can tell you 
how to get there.)  While, as you would expect for a southern store, the 
emphasis seems to be on cotton prints, there are also some very nice silks 
and wools at reasonable prices, and also an extensive trim department.  Enjoy!
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 14:39:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 14:48:33 EDT
Subject: H-COST: trim on early surcote
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I'm afraid that I don't know whether or not that this is period BUT I have 
seen a woman at many events wearing just this period, and she always looks 
smashing. She wears woven trim around the wrist of her undergown and at the 
hem, neck, and armholes of her surcote. The trim she picks is fairly wide 
(about two inches) and isn't obviously modern (you know, little roses and 
things) or Tudor-looking. It is a very attractive style that I wish MORE 
people would wear if they want something simple. The headgear is essential to 
the look, IMO.

Gail Finke
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: H-Cost:  Boot recommendations?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Well, I taught my first costume class last night, and it went very well.
However, after standing for two hours in my cheap lace up boots, I've
decided that I want to spend the pitiful amount of money I'll be making on a
good pair  of 1850's boots.  

Can anyone recommend a supplier?  I'm especially interested in comfort and
support, as my feet have to support rather a lot.  An idea of pricing would
be helpful, too. 

Margo Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 15:56:30 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:05:05 EDT
Subject: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



This is in reply to Henk's reply. I was under the impression (please read 
this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) that we 
had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most of our 
surviving artwork from this time is in the form of illuminations, so that we 
don't know whether people used trim on their clothing. Likewise we don't know 
whether they used much decorative embroidery. Henk seems to speak with much 
authority, so perhaps I mistaken.

It seems to me that the later in history you go, and the more "photographic" 
in style that the artwork gets, the more we see in the way of decorative 
stitches, embroidery, ruffles and pleats, beading, etc. The question I have 
is whether these things actually became more elaborate over time, or whether 
the earlier and less detailed art just didn't show them. Do we really know 
the answer to this?

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 16:15:32 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:27:20 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>This is in reply to Henk's reply. I was under the impression (please read
>this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) that we
>had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most of our
>surviving artwork from this time is in the form of illuminations, so that
we
>don't know whether people used trim on their clothing. Likewise we don't
know
>whether they used much decorative embroidery.

True enough, but some illumination--or rather, paintings--are really quite
detailed in what they do show.  Statuary is another major source of
information.  Some examples of statuary from this period show a lot of
detail in, for instance, the girdles or belts around the waists of the
subjects;  others put a lot of detail in the headgear, or the brooches, but
fairly consistantly the clothing is shown either untrimmed or *perhaps*
trimmed with simple contrasting bands of cloth. I'm willing to go a step
further and posit simple embroidery patterns (perhaps just couched thread)
or tablet-woven braids, simply because we do have some evidence from earlier
periods that these were used.  But the fact that they're not depicted in
great detail tends to make me think they were subtle, if they *were* there.
I think Henk's point is that it's a tendency for us to want to gussy things
up with trim and such, and to assume that this was always done.  Some of the
most authentically-medieval things I've seen out there accomplish this with
little or no trimming, but with well-chosen, beautifully-cut fabrics.

>It seems to me that the later in history you go, and the more
"photographic"
>in style that the artwork gets, the more we see in the way of decorative
>stitches, embroidery, ruffles and pleats, beading, etc. The question I have
>is whether these things actually became more elaborate over time, or
whether
>the earlier and less detailed art just didn't show them. Do we really know
>the answer to this?

Ruffles and pleats are in a slightly different category than beading or
embroidery, simply because they're part of the cut and construction, not the
ornamentation.  I'm inclined to say that if *particularly* statuary doesn't
show ruffles or pleats, they almost certainly weren't there.  And although
we only have a few surviving pieces from the 13th century (the Shirt of St.
Louis and the clothing from the royal tombs at Las Huelgas being the primary
examples), we do have more *pieces* from garments, and this evidence all
tends to support less ornamentation, rather than more, and an emphasis on
fabric, rather than ornamentation, to convey a feeling of luxury.  Goodness,
I'd be thrilled to tears to find solid evidence of lots of embroidery or
beading for this period, since I do both, and I'm always hoping something
new will turn up....

Susan Caroll-Clark



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 16:32:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 15:42:46 -0500
From: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC@centum.utulsa.edu>
To: H-COSTUME@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: Boot recommendations? 
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-Poster: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC@centum.utulsa.edu>

<Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>>
>Well, I taught my first costume class last night, and it went very well.
>However, after standing for two hours in my cheap lace up boots, I've
>decided that I want to spend the pitiful amount of money I'll be making on a
>good pair  of 1850's boots.  
>Can anyone recommend a supplier?  I'm especially interested in comfort and
>support, as my feet have to support rather a lot.  An idea of pricing would
>be helpful, too. 

It's a little out of my period, but be careful.  The last time I went looking
for boots, they were running in the several hundred of dollars range.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 19:34:28 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Max Factor & MND
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:45:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

Max Factor has come out with a line of cosmetics to go with the film A
Midsummer Night's Dream.  This is a collection inspired by the movie, and
designed by the film's makeup artist, Ronnie Specter.  Some of the colors
are Pease Blossom, Cob Web, and Mustard Seed.  There are in gift sets at:
http://www.maxfactor.com/  I have no interest in the product. I  just saw
the ad in Vogue and found it interesting.

I guess the film's marketers are wanting to set some trends!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 19:42:05 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: British jockey caps, c. 1774-1821
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

I am researching the dress of Canadian voyageurs c. 1774-1821. One of the 
items of clothing that shows up on fur trade inventory lists is 'jockey 
caps', but I have nothing more than a guess as to what these caps looked 
like (i.e. like modern jockey's caps, which are shaped like baseball caps). 
On the web, I've found statements that Rogers Rangers wore jockey caps, but 
no descriptions of them. One web site noted that they were originally cut 
down from tricorns. 

On the other hand, the caption for plate 59 in Stella Blum's _Eighteenth 
Century  French Fashion Plates in Full Colour_ (published by Dover) 
describes the man as "Stock-market speculator in morning clothes and 
'chapeau jockei' (1787)". The 'chapeau jockei' shown is not at all like a 
baseball cap--it has a wide brim all around, which is flat on the sides and 
pushed down over the eyes and in the back; it has a tall straight crown 
similar to the crown on a top hat. Of course, this may be a French 'jockey 
hat' which has absolutely nothing to do with the 'jockey caps' the British 
fur traders are writing about.

Can anyone help me with a reliable description of English jockey caps of 
this period?

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:59:26 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Max Factor & MND
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
>
>Max Factor has come out with a line of cosmetics to go with the film A
>Midsummer Night's Dream.  This is a collection inspired by the movie, and
>designed by the film's makeup artist, Ronnie Specter.  Some of the colors
>are Pease Blossom, Cob Web, and Mustard Seed.  There are in gift sets at:
>http://www.maxfactor.com/  I have no interest in the product. I  just saw
>the ad in Vogue and found it interesting.
>
>I guess the film's marketers are wanting to set some trends!
>
>Later...Penny
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
OT to Penny's message:  Does anyone know if this is the Ronnie Specter who
was a "girl group" singer in the 60's and later married Phil Specter?  Or
was that Spector?

LynnD
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 20:41:43 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster: Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>

>This is in reply to Henk's reply. I was under the impression (please read 
>this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) that we 
>had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most of our 
>surviving artwork from this time is in the form of illuminations, so that we 
>don't know whether people used trim on their clothing. Likewise we don't know 
>whether they used much decorative embroidery. Henk seems to speak with much 
>authority, so perhaps I mistaken.

I don't have any sources or documents for you, but three things come to mind in 
reading this.  One is what about tombs and brass rubbings? They're remarkably 
detailed sometimes!  The next is what about the Bayeux Tapestry, although 
earlier, isn't it full of such clothing details?   And the last is that as a 
Saxon lady, I understand that we (the Saxons) at that time wore brightly and 
lavishly coloured and trimmed tunics and overdresses, with lots of jewelry.  

Again, I have no documentation for my last point, it is merely a summation of 
what I've absorbed from various sources, but there's no smoke without fire is 
there?  Am I dressing incorrectly then?

Elysant de Holtham
MKA Jean Holtom (yes my mundane surname's really OE and I'm a Brit)
 
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 13 May 1999 snowfire@mail.snet.net wrote:

> 
> I don't have any sources or documents for you, but three things come to mind in 
> reading this.  One is what about tombs and brass rubbings? They're remarkably 
> detailed sometimes!  The next is what about the Bayeux Tapestry, although 
> earlier, isn't it full of such clothing details?   And the last is that as a 
> Saxon lady, I understand that we (the Saxons) at that time wore brightly and 
> lavishly coloured and trimmed tunics and overdresses, with lots of jewelry.  
> 
> Again, I have no documentation for my last point, it is merely a summation of 
> what I've absorbed from various sources, but there's no smoke without fire is 
> there?  Am I dressing incorrectly then?
Memorial brasses don't appear until about 1350 IIRC, and where they have 
detail for clothing of that era it seems to be largely brocade patterns.
Henk and Susan are talking about the 13th century, at least a hundred years
after Saxon rule in England ended (even longer since their counterparts
held forth on the continent). There is a relatively abrupt change around
1200AD from fancy to simple clothes. Plenty of evidence for trim etc before
that....not very much afterwards. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 21:24:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 21:33:38 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

 
>Memorial brasses don't appear until about 1350 IIRC, and where they have 
>detail for clothing of that era it seems to be largely brocade patterns.
>Henk and Susan are talking about the 13th century, at least a hundred years
>after Saxon rule in England ended (even longer since their counterparts
>held forth on the continent). There is a relatively abrupt change around
>1200AD from fancy to simple clothes. 

I see.  Forgive me for getting confused here :-).  For the 12th century (1100AD - 
1200AD) trim is correct.  13th Century (1200s) it would not be correct. 

Elysant
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 21:53:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 21:08:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Midsummer Night's Dream
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> -Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
> 
> <Has anyone seen the previews for "A Midsummer's Night Dream"?  I have tried
> <to pick the main period being represented.  From the quick teasers, it looks
> <kinda late bustle on the fringe of 1890.  But in this type of film,
> <designers are allowed to float around varying time periods.  I did my senior
> <design project on MND...my version they were all rock stars from the 1970s.
> <The Glam look vs Heavy Metal Rock stars look.  The players were the Doobie
> <Brothers!!!  It was wild!
> 
> In high school, when we put on MND, we set it in the 50s.  Titania
> was Marilyn Monroe, Oberon a young Elvis, and Puck was running around in a
> bowling shirt we found that had 'The Fairies' or something like that on
> the back.  We had an awful lot of fun doing it; too bad most of the
> details have escaped me.  Emma?

Sorry, I've been sick (as well you know, Parsla...). I don't remember what
was on Puck's back, but "Puck" was embroidered on the front.  

Cobweb had a grey felt full-circle (poodle-type) skirt, with a spider and
a bit of web applique'd on.  

I don't remember the  rest as well.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 22:32:26 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:  Boot recommendations?
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

Capri Shoe Repair in Fullerton, California makes all of Disney's shoes.  They 
do great lace up boots that actors have to dance in all day.  They are 
located at 1218 W. Commonwealth, Fullerton, CA 92833  714 525 5128 They do 
Cavalier boots for about $350.00 that are wonderful.  They have been doing 
specialty shoes and boots for 20 years and they are wonderful.  I would 
imagine the boots you want would cost about $100.00 to $120.00 but I don't 
work for them, just a very happy customer.  Ask for Oscar.  Yes, they do 
shoes over the phone.  They are open Mon-Thurs 7:30-5:30 PM, Friday 7:30-6:30 
and Saturday 8:00-3:00.  They are 10 minutes from Disney, so if you are in 
town, perhaps you could stop there. Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 13 23:12:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: mambo kings
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Gail -- If you've ever seen an Edsel -- well, two of those could crash 
head-on and bounce off each other. BIG, heavy cars! Most early 60s cars were 
big mothers with lots of steel. You never know.

But, I agree about the movie. I loved it.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 00:00:35 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 13 May 1999 Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> Gail -- If you've ever seen an Edsel -- well, two of those could crash 
> head-on and bounce off each other. BIG, heavy cars! Most early 60s cars were 
> big mothers with lots of steel. You never know.
> 
That would be twice as bad! To bounce something takes twice the force
of just stopping it, and that force is applied to poor little soft you
too. In addition most early cars had poor interior design with hard, sharp
dashes and rigid steering columns. There were some truely horrific
accidents in them....but this is OT :-)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 00:01:28 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Update
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 00:11:51 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

I have updated the Medieval Image Links section to our Online Library,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Medieval.htm .  I am really excited about some
of the manuscript images I have found on the web.  The artwork is stunning!
Please let me personally know how you like them.  I would also like to know
if you have found some links that show good costuming images from this time
span.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Lymond of Crawford????
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>



DEAN QUACKENBUSH wrote:

> Anyone know of any reference to dyed fur to match costume in this period?  I
> am creating a costume for a Lymond of Crawford character and began to
> wonder?

I just have to ask, "Lymond of Crawford" as in Dorothy Dunnett Lymond Saga?

If yes is this a play, or something else?

David S Mallinak
matchlck@erols.com

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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> As for the cost:  Amazon has it for 150 pounds.  The retail cost was $265
> from David Stone; the Medieval Congress Discount brought it down to $198.
> And (at the risk of being overly-gleeful), I snagged it on the last day of
> the congress at half price, for $96.

The 2nd and 3rd volumes have not come out yet. They told me an 
estimate when I was at the National Portrait Gallery in London week 
before last but I just got off the plane and my body thinks it is 
still in London, so I don't remember exactly what they said. 
Something like Feb 2000, I think.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 01:59:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 02:11:58 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s extant clothing (was: trim)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>This is in reply to Henk's reply. I was under the impression (please >read
this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) >that we
had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most 
>of our surviving artwork from this time is in the form of >illuminations,
so that we don't know whether people used trim on their >clothing.

Actually, there is some extant clothing.  I know Susan has already
mentioned it but, they unearthed a number of things from some Spanish royal
tombs.  You can find photos and descriptions (in Spanish) of all these
goodies (clothing, textiles, jewellery, hats, etc...) in a book called:

"MUSEO DE TELAS MEDIEVALES Monastrio de Santa Maria La Real de Huelgas"
By Concha Herrero Carretero
copyright: Editorial Patrimonio Nacional
Palacio Real de Madrid
Balien, s/n. 28013 Madrid.   Tel 248 74 04
Reservados todos los derechos.
ISBN 84-7120-127-5

It lists a couple of addresses and phone numbers:
Relaizacion e Impresion: Lunweg Editores, S.A.
Beethoven, 12-08021 Barcelona.  Tel 201 59 33
Manuel Silvela, - 12. 28010 Madrid.  Tel 593 00 58

The book is wonderful and I would recommend it to ANYONE who is at all
interested in historical garments.   The only caution I would include is
the fact that these styles are Spanish only and aren't in any
representational of what was being worn anywhere else in Europe.  The
strong Moorish infulence is evident in the textiles.  It is also
interesting to note that in Spain sideless surcotes of the "gates of hell"
variety were being worn almost 100 years before they would be seen in England.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 03:19:32 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 03:28:54 +0000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's 
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

I've never heard of this one, I'l have to try and find it.
Thanks.

Kassandra NickKraken


> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 5/11/99 10:38:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> margo@directcon.net writes:
> 
> << I just don't DO theater.   >>
> A scene painter friend of mine has a big sign on his bedroom wall:
> Say no to Theatre
> 
> Anyway...there's a video version of Midsummer done in 1965 or
> thereabouts by the RSC. It's great! done modern dress [for 1965]
> sorta....but it's the cast that still makes this a delight!
> Lysander....David Warner Hermia....Helen Mirren Helena.....Diana
> Rigg Puck....Ian Holm Titania...Judi Dench [green & bare breasted!]
> Oberon.....Ian Richardson
> 
> It was shot for TV & has no "special" special effects. Quite
> primitive but remember "The play's the thing"! Rent it if you can
> find it.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com with
>  the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 08:08:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:17:37 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fancy to Plain C 13th C
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I see.  Forgive me for getting confused here :-).  For the 12th century
(1100AD - 
1200AD) trim is correct.  13th Century (1200s) it would not be correct. 

Basically it has a lot to do with the church & its influence, in that fancy
stuff was seen  as wicked, however if you look at literary evidence you
still see church men complaining about the extravagances & vanities of
women (including nuns )& men too but mainly women :~)
 Veils seem to have been particulary the item that everyone spent time &
money on. Brooches as well were plentiful & a fitting gift, so I tend to
see a more subtle decoration being used rather that decoration going
completly. Of course place has a lot of influence too.

Mel
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Update
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:01:09 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Cannot read the black text. Try to make it a different color than the rich
beautiful background. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 11:12 PM
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Update


:
:-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
:
:I have updated the Medieval Image Links section to our Online Library,
:http://www.costumegallery.com/Medieval.htm .  I am really excited about
some
:of the manuscript images I have found on the web.  The artwork is stunning!
:Please let me personally know how you like them.  I would also like to know
:if you have found some links that show good costuming images from this time
:span.
:
:Later...Penny
:http://www.costumegallery.com
:
: _________________________________________________________________
: To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
: with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fancy to Plain C 13th C
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 09:40:59 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Basically it has a lot to do with the church & its influence, in that fancy
>stuff was seen  as wicked, however if you look at literary evidence you
>still see church men complaining about the extravagances & vanities of
>women (including nuns )& men too but mainly women :~)

Yes, but what do they complain about in the thirteenth century?  Gowns which
drag the floor.  That appears again and again and again.  Tells me that
thirteenth century "fancy stuff" consisted of going nuts on the fabric.  You
do see a couple of mentions of veils and jewellery.

And I should probably mention that it seems the Church (or rather,
individuals within the Church, since the Church as a whole never made a
statement about secular clothing) complained much about clothing, but that
it had little effect on actual fashion.

Susan

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-Poster: Maria Fowler <vyper@san.rr.com>

I found the star wars paper dolls at both Target and Toys R Us



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 12:16:13 1999
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-Poster: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu

I've been checking the dags on Ebay for examples of 1840's/1850's clothing. 
I've seen several examples of bodices with to-the-waist V neck openings, which
are then filled with white chemisettes.  These bodices are usually gauged to
the center front waist, which is often pointed, then the gathers spread across
the bosom.  I have not had the opportunity of examining one of these dresses,
so I have a few questions.  1)  Is the gathered front mounted on a fitted
lining?  2)  Is this open-V bodice front or back opening?  3)  what type of
closures are used, and where?  4)  what would the chemisette look like on its
own, and how is it kept in place?

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
vicki@lib.uttyl.edu
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

> I've been checking the dags on Ebay for examples of 1840's/1850's clothing.
> I've seen several examples of bodices with to-the-waist V neck openings, which
> are then filled with white chemisettes.  These bodices are usually gauged to
> the center front waist, which is often pointed, then the gathers spread across
> the bosom.  I have not had the opportunity of examining one of these dresses,
> so I have a few questions.  1)  Is the gathered front mounted on a fitted
> lining?  2)  Is this open-V bodice front or back opening?  3)  what type of
> closures are used, and where?  4)  what would the chemisette look like on its
> own, and how is it kept in place?

As it happens, I had one of these dresses in a pile of clothes I bought recently
and have not had time to put away.  It was sold to me as a wedding dress (which
doesn't mean it was one, necessarily).  It is an ivory brocade.  The bodice is
underlined in ivory silk (and the skirt is lined in a loosely woven, stiffened tan
cotton or linen).  It fastens in back with hooks and eyes.  The bodice lining is
closely fitted to the body. The front of the bodice (outer layer)  is gauged from
the waist point to the bottom of the blunt V opening, then fans out into unsewn
(and currently unpressed) pleats to the shoulders.  The gauging is sewn down to
the lining with five horizontal rows of stitching above the waist point (there are
11 rows of the gauging itself).  There is boning  up the middle of the gauging
from the waist point to the bottom of the V opening, and boning on either side of
the V opening to about 3 1/2 inches above the opening (that is, 3 1/2 inches
longer than the boning up the middle of the V).

There are no fasteners on the sides of the V opening for fastening to the
chemisette.  If the V was pinned or basted to the chemisette, there are currently
no holes visible to the naked eye that indicate this.  As for the chemisettes, my
memory is that Cunnington's _English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century_
has pictures of some.

This dress has narrow pagoda sleeves that would have required an undersleeve.  I
think that in this case the sleeves were sometimes attached to the chemisette,
forming essentially a blouse, which would have stayed put on the body without
pinning to the dress.  Again, there is no indication on the V opening that it was
fastened to a chemisette to keep either the chemisette or the V opening itself in
place.

Hope this helps,

Fran

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

> I've been checking the dags on Ebay for examples of 1840's/1850's clothing.
> I've seen several examples of bodices with to-the-waist V neck openings, which
> are then filled with white chemisettes.  These bodices are usually gauged to
> the center front waist, which is often pointed, then the gathers spread across
> the bosom.  I have not had the opportunity of examining one of these dresses,
> so I have a few questions.  1)  Is the gathered front mounted on a fitted
> lining?  2)  Is this open-V bodice front or back opening?  3)  what type of
> closures are used, and where?  4)  what would the chemisette look like on its
> own, and how is it kept in place?
>

Actually, when I went to put the ivory brocade dress back I found another one from
the same era in the pile, which may or may not have been worn with a chemisette. I
can't tell.

The dress is a silvery/lavender silk taffeta. The bodice is underlined with cream
glazed cotton (and the skirt with brown).  This dress fastens in front with hooks
and eyes. The blunt V waist has 11 evenly spaced rows of gauging.  It looks like
they were adjusted first, then other rows of stitching were done along the gauging
lines to fasten the outer bodice down to the lining.  The gauging is about 4
inches deep, from the waist point up, and the last hook and eye is about 8 inches
up from the waist point.  There are no fasteners above that.  There is a bone up
the middle of the bodice and the gauging from the waist point to the last hook and
eye (which, as said, is about 4 inches above the top of the gauging).  Since the
dress opens in front, this bone is on the right side, which is where the eyes
are.  There are also bones on either side of the gauging, slanting to extend all
the way up the deep bust darts on the lining.

The lining and outer bodice are not sewn together at all above the V (on the other
dress the bodice was hemmed over the lining to the inside).   However, they may
have been at least basted together at some point and the stitching removed later.
This dress is in good shape but more worn than the ivory one, and I can't tell
without more detailed examination whether marks on it used to be stitching of the
bodice to the  lining, or something else.  What I am getting at is, if the bodice
was not stitched to the lining at the opening it may have simply been allowed to
extend over the chest beyond the lining; but I can't tell.  But to repeat, there
are no fasteners on either the bodice or the lining above that last hook and eye 8
inches above the waist point.

There is a very narrow rectangular lace collar basted around the neck which, if
original, may indicate a chemisette was not worn, or, if it was, that it had no
collar.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
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http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:33:24 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unorthodox Shakespeare  (was:Midsummer Night's
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I've never heard of this one, I'l have to try and find it.
>Thanks.
>
>Kassandra NickKraken
>
>
>> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 5/11/99 10:38:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>> margo@directcon.net writes:
>>
>> << I just don't DO theater.   >>
>> A scene painter friend of mine has a big sign on his bedroom wall:
>> Say no to Theatre
>>
>> Anyway...there's a video version of Midsummer done in 1965 or
>> thereabouts by the RSC. It's great! done modern dress [for 1965]
>> sorta....but it's the cast that still makes this a delight!
>> Lysander....David Warner Hermia....Helen Mirren Helena.....Diana
>> Rigg Puck....Ian Holm Titania...Judi Dench [green & bare breasted!]
>> Oberon.....Ian Richardson
>>
>> It was shot for TV & has no "special" special effects. Quite
>> primitive but remember "The play's the thing"! Rent it if you can
>> find it.

I saw this when it was on PBS in 66-67 - at least I think this is the one.
The timing is right and Diana Rigg was in it - that's why my father
insisted we sit and watch it.  Dad's not big on Shakespeare but he loves
Mrs. Peel.  Last year I found a copy of the tape at the store - Target or
PayLess or something like that and bought it.  I still haven't watched it,
but my husband and daughter - Shakespeare fans both - thought it was
primitive (their word too!).  The tape was poorly done, they said.  But *I*
remember it as sterling and enchanting.  I didn't even know any of those
other people who have become so wonderfully famous.  I remember Diana Rigg
running through the forest chasing someone and thinking how weird it was
that Mrs. Peel had to chase some guy!

LynnD
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-Poster: Vicki Betts <vbetts@gower.net>

> There is a very narrow rectangular lace collar basted around the neck which, if
> original, may indicate a chemisette was not worn, or, if it was, that it had no
> collar.
>
> Fran

Thanks for the descriptions!  However, this last paragraph makes me think that perhaps
we aren't thinking about the same type of dress, at least on this second one.  If a
chemisette was not worn with the open V neck shape that I'm thinking about--the woman
would have a bare chest from just above her belly button up to her neck in the front.

Here's an example, but the neckline isn't as low as I've seen some.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103276981

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



>
>
> Thanks for the descriptions!  However, this last paragraph makes me think that perhaps
> we aren't thinking about the same type of dress, at least on this second one.  If a
> chemisette was not worn with the open V neck shape that I'm thinking about--the woman
> would have a bare chest from just above her belly button up to her neck in the front.
>
> Here's an example, but the neckline isn't as low as I've seen some.
>

Yes, that's the style, except both the dresses I described have narrow pagoda sleeves, and
the area of gauging may be a bit narrower. The first dress I described has a deeper
opening than in the picture and definitely would be indecent without a chemisette.

I think the second dress, which would have a less deep V if worn open (more like the
picture), may have been worn over a chemisette, and probably was unless there were some
fasteners that have been removed.  But the wearer's bust size would affect how far the
front would extend, and with the opening I can't tell what that bust size would be.

What I'm getting at is, I do not want to say the second dress was worn over a chemisette
unless I know for sure.  And I don't have time right now to put it on various size forms
and test over chemisettes to see exactly how it was originally worn, whether it _had_ to
be worn with a chemisette, and by what bust size person, etc.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
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http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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Subject: H-COST: McCall's sale at Hancocks
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Of course they will need modification but check out McCall's 2248 (men's
doublet (w/yuky sleeves), cap, rolled hat, vest thing, belt & leggings
and shirt); 2242 (4-18) and 2243 (18W - 32W) women's psudotudor (they
separate the bodice & skirts totally), french hood, rolled hat, and
shirt....and since Hancock's has McCall's on sale for $0.99 through the
weekend (limit 5)....well, you can guess the rest! <grin>

Kat
who only went to buy a metallic thread needle...honest!!
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 17:08:09 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #315
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

In a message dated 5/14/99 3:36:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

> Of course they will need modification but check out McCall's 2248 (men's
>  doublet (w/yuky sleeves), cap, rolled hat, vest thing, belt & leggings
>  and shirt); 2242 (4-18) and 2243 (18W - 32W) women's psudotudor (they
>  separate the bodice & skirts totally), french hood, rolled hat, and
>  shirt....and since Hancock's has McCall's on sale for $0.99 through the
>  weekend (limit 5)....well, you can guess the rest! <grin>

 I was disappointed that this was the only men's pattern that I could find in 
all of the pattern books for men. I would like to make an outfit for hubby 
for the Renn Faire this summer, but the above seemed to be for an earlier 
period than Elizabethan. Are there any other patterns for men for mid-late 
Elizabeth, or can you give me any hints on what to do with this pattern? I'm 
going to be picking up the women's Simplicity patterns this weekend ($0.99 at 
JoAnn's Sat & Sun) for myself.

Rebecca
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 16:31:52 1999
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199905140135.VAA28192@smtp.snet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 14:38:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings all,

Forgive me for barging in here.  I have read that the Saxon women, while
among the best weaver's and embroider-ers in the land did not dress lavishly
(maybe something to do with 'lay not your treasures where moth and dust
..'), as far as jewelry, etc.  They did wear bright colors.

Lessee, there is very little trim mentioned even for nobility through the
1350's.  Source:  'Ancient Costumes of Great Britain and Ireland, From the
Druids to the Tudors.'   Ah, used book stores!

Sidne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 16:32:57 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Polish gowns
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 17:39:17 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

I followed the link for corset lacing and found this link:
http://www.faires.com/roundtwo/DecoratedWarsawGown.htm
she sells this gown as well as something called a Krakow gown.  Does anyone
have any documentation, sources or pictures of medieval Polish garb, men or
women's?  The catalog also mentions a zupan.  Any help you could give would
be appreciated.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 17:09:04 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> Here's a question for anyone who knows:  how much do back issues of
> Costume (The Journal of the Costume Society) cost, and where can one get
> them?

The cost depends on a number of factors. I picked up several at a 
costume specific used book store in London. (A wonderful place in 
Enfield run by Felicity Warnes. I'm still trying to find my email 
address for her or I'd give it to you. She does mail order and lets 
people come to her bookshop by appointment.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> and dress accessories in the Museum of London.  (The latter had pictures
> of two french hood frames and one gable hood wire frame). 

I was fortunate enough to get to actually see these in person less 
than a month ago at the Museum of London. I've been researching early 
16th Century hats and headdresses and got to see all that the Museum 
of London had (although there might be some new stuff that is in Mr. 
Shephard's area which have not been catalogued yet.)  As far as I 
know, they do not have any French hood frames. What they have looks 
more like gable frames. I'm hoping to be able to take some 
measurements on things like angles and the like off the slides I 
took. We laid the pieces on graph paper to photograph them and 
photographed them from many angles. (Upside down, side ways, back and 
front at least.)

One of the frames is in a book called London Bodies (compiled by 
Alext Werner) that is currently on sale at the Museum of London. It 
was L6.95 and the ISBN is 0-904818-90-x. (I have this bad feeling 
that it cost more to ship it home than it actually cost.) You might 
be able to get it from amazon.co.uk (the UK branch of amazon.com.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 17:29:17 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Wow, you're back!  How exciting!  I'll see you tomorrow for at least a little
bit.  Doing the challenge thing.

It will probably take all summer to hear about your trip in dribs and drabs
But, I *love* hearing about other peoples trips and looking at their pictures.

:)  Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: H-COST: 1840s & 1850's dresses
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-Poster: ArcadiaCB@aol.com

In reply to Vicki's post.  I have 5 or 6 of these dresses in my 
collection-commonly referred to "fan-front" dresses.  The ones from the 40's 
seem to have the more deeply pointed and gathered fronts. Some of mine open 
in the back and some in the front,  (the front opening ones are the later 
ones with the fan shape coming to about the natural waist), fastened by hooks 
and eyes (one the inner lining of the front opening ones), with the gatthers 
spread and sewn as Fran had noted.  On the earliest one--the 1840's 
back-opening with deeply pointed front, the V-neck only comes to about the 
top of the breast (I haven't checked the others,just happened to have the 
1840's handy from a display I did a week ago and still haven't put back  
where it usually lives).  The chemisette of the 19th century was sort of a 
super dickey--a wide front piece which would have covered most of the chest 
and a back piece as well, usually held in place by means of ties which run 
through a casing at the bottom, so they wou;dn't need to be sewn in or 
otherwise attached. For good examples (and sewing instructions) see Janet 
Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion, Vol 1 1660--1860" which has 7 examples from c 
1800--1860. For the later, less pointed version, with a high neck, Past 
Patterns had a pattern #801 "Fan-front bodice" (I don't see it on their web 
site now--I got mine about 10 or so years ago).
  Hope this helps.
Charlene
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From: CJ Brunette <cj@onsync.com>
Subject: H-COST: MN Renaissance Festival Fire
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-Poster: CJ Brunette <cj@onsync.com>

Hi- I have been off the H-Costume list for some time - too busy - so
forgive me if this is redundant.
A couple people asked me about the aid fund for uninsured crafters who lost
their buildings in the arson fire. I don't have their addresses any more, &
thought others might be interested. Here is the url for the Phoenix
Project, you can also see some very good pictures before & after the fire:

http://members.tripod.com/projectphoenix/

No word on any arrests or police leads.

--CarolJane in Minneapolis

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 20:59:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 19:06:51 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Garb : India : Saris
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

          I cannot recall if this is the book that someone mentioned, but
this one crossed my desk to catalog, and it's got a lot of info. in it.
How to wear saris, the different styles and types of cloth by region...all
kinds of detail.  Carol / Gra/inne

At 10:18 AM 5/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
>LCCN: 95-1590 ISBN: 0810944618 : $24.98US LC Call No.:
>GT1460.L95 1995 Dewey Decimal No.: 391/.2/0954 2 20 100 1
>   Lynton, Linda. The sari : styles, patterns, history,
>techniques / Linda Lynton ; photographs by Sanjay K. Singh.  
>New York : H.N. Abrams, c1995.  208 p. : ill. (some col.),
>maps ; 32 cm.  Includes bibliographical references (p.
>202-203) and index. 1. Saris.  I. Singh, Sanjay K.
>  
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 14 22:56:33 1999
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From: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wooden Busks
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 21:16:26 -0700
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-Poster: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>

Greetings to everyone on this list!

I have a (what I consider) a rather obscure question....

I have found reference to a wood busk in Corsets and Crinolines (Norah
Waugh) under the chapter "construction of corsets" ( page 154 in the
souftbound editions)  and was wondering if more information could be got on
such things.  As I seem to recall somewhere in this fog that I call a brain,
they were often called Lover's Busks and were given to ladies by their
lovers or husbands.  What I am interested in is references, construction
tips, samples, pics, notes, tips from people who have made them....
basically anything and all... since I can't find reference to them anywhere
but in this book.  Any directions that any of you fine people might be able
to lead me in would be gratefully accepted....

Thank you,
Desamona
m.k.a. Brandy Dickson

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: British jockey caps, c. 1774-1821
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

What I think of as jockey caps are sometimes seen in those 18th cent. (or pseudo 18th cent.) paintings of convivial groups of horsey gentlemen - also on grooms in some of Stubbs' horse portraits. They are similar to modern riding hard hats (as worn in Europe, at any rate) which are a more "domed" shape than baseball caps.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Max Factor & MND
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 5/13/99 6:45:57 PM EST, 
penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com writes:

> Max Factor has come out with a line of cosmetics to go with the film A
>  Midsummer Night's Dream.  This is a collection inspired by the movie, and
>  designed by the film's makeup artist, Ronnie Specter.

I picked up some of these, and I'm using them for the basis of my prom 
makeup. They're lovely pale, shimmy shades in a world infatuated with mauve 
and brown tones.

-Alison (prom is TONIGHT!! AGH!) Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 09:41:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:03:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9905112021020.23298-100000@vcn.bc.ca>
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-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>


if I remember right, it was peasant/herald piece of clothing.. more
borderline apron than 'public wear'... and the only thing I have seen with
them is VERy simple heraldic, if you are doing heraldic things... OR
contrasting edging. *take a different fabric, and make a 3 inch edge...
looks better than mini bias tapes*

THough some people smooge it towards the viking side, and put big old
brooches over each collarbone, and wear lots of jewelry.

good luck!
Sarahj

**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:38:48 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Susan asked: 
> This brings up a question:  Where does the term "cyclas" come from?  It
> sounds Greek, but I've never run across it in use in literary references
> about clothing (accounts books and the like, which do use "robe",
> "cote/cotte/coat",  "smock," and "shirt"--this is in England, though the
> accounts are in Latin).  Was it actually used in the 13th/early 14th
century
> to refer to a sleeveless surcote?  Some costume books show a "cyclas" as
> sort of a tabard for women, with open sides; the closest I've seen to
this
> is the scapular worn by some of the monastic orders, including some of
the
> women.

This is a classic! Originally 'cyclat' or 'siglat' was a very expensive
silk based cloth with metal (gold or silver) threads interwoven; a sort of
early brocade, originating in the far and middle east (some came through
Spain) and probably imported during the first 3 crusades. It was usually
made into surcottes for the nobility and for spendthrift knights who, among
other things, must have also used it for their 'jupons' or sleeveless coat
of arms. The jupon of cyclat must have become known as simply a 'cyclat' or
'cyclas' and became for a short time (late 12th, early 13th c) a kind of
sort-name. It is a.o. mentioned in a Tristan romance of this time.

It is, in my experience, never used as a name for sleeveless surcottes for
less rich people. In the French, German and Dutch language area this
garment is always referred to as a 'so(r)quanie' or 'suckenie/y'. It was
always made of wool and most times lined with linen or furs.

The scapular was, according to my research, at first nothing but a kind of
apron to prevent the habit becoming soiled while doing household or other
messy tasks. It became an integral part of monk's and nun's costume about
1050-1100, still served it's purpose, but it was also worn when not
performing he above mentioned tasks. There are pictures of monks with very
stained and torn scapulars working in vineyards and in the ploughing field.
Franciscans, who dressed very poorly, never wore these.

Henk


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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fancy to Plain C 13th C
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:47:54 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Susan wrote: 
> And I should probably mention that it seems the Church (or rather,
> individuals within the Church, since the Church as a whole never made a
> statement about secular clothing) complained much about clothing, but
that
> it had little effect on actual fashion.

Hear, hear!

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:44:33 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi Listers,

Gail wrote:
> I was under the impression (please read
> >this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) that
we
> >had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most of our
> >surviving artwork from this time is in the form of illuminations, so
that
> we
> >don't know whether people used trim on their clothing. Likewise we don't
> know
> >whether they used much decorative embroidery.
> 
To which Susan replied:
> True enough, but some illumination--or rather, paintings--are really
quite
> detailed in what they do show.  Statuary is another major source of
> information.  Some examples of statuary from this period show a lot of
> detail in, for instance, the girdles or belts around the waists of the
> subjects;  others put a lot of detail in the headgear, or the brooches,
but
> fairly consistantly the clothing is shown either untrimmed or *perhaps*
> trimmed with simple contrasting bands of cloth. I'm willing to go a step
> further and posit simple embroidery patterns (perhaps just couched
thread)
> or tablet-woven braids, simply because we do have some evidence from
earlier
> periods that these were used.  But the fact that they're not depicted in
> great detail tends to make me think they were subtle, if they *were*
there.

I could not agree more.

> I think Henk's point is that it's a tendency for us to want to gussy
things
> up with trim and such, and to assume that this was always done.  Some of
the
> most authentically-medieval things I've seen out there accomplish this
with
> little or no trimming, but with well-chosen, beautifully-cut fabrics.
> 
I don't know if you people out there ever get a chance to see people
dressed up in good woollen and linen replica's of late 12th to early 14th c
costume, but if you have or will, you'll be impressed by the simple
elegance of this kind of dress, even for the lower classes.

Henk

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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:31:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


On Sat, 15 May 1999, Henk 't Jong wrote:

> I don't know if you people out there ever get a chance to see people
> dressed up in good woollen and linen replica's of late 12th to early 14th c
> costume, but if you have or will, you'll be impressed by the simple
> elegance of this kind of dress, even for the lower classes.

Well said!

I wonder if much of the sense people have today that these clothes are
drab/unattractive stems from the fact that so many people reproducing them
have used the wrong fabric. I have seen many, many "generic tunics" made
of cotton because it's cheap, readily available, and (presumably) 
comfortable. But cotton is *not* a suitable substitute for linen or wool
-- it hangs and flows very differently, without the smooth draping and
subtle "glow." And it wears much worse than medieval fibers, particularly
after washing. I've found layered linen and wool (or, in the right time
and place, a strong silk) to be more comfortable than cotton even in
90-degree heat, and it looks superb. 

I've noticed that hobbyist re-enactors first getting started --
particularly those who are not costumers -- often start out in a cotton
tunic. It's cheap and easy to make, even for a beginning sewer, and in the
SCA at least it's broadly accepted as "starter garb." Eventually (when
people learn more and can spend more money) they typically "move up" to a
more complex style and better fabrics. No wonder they think of the simple
tunics as dull and undesirable. (And those discarded tunics end up in a
loaner box, to be draped over the next new member...) 

--Robin


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 13:29:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 14:38:36 +0000
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

Hi all,

I read in the last digest that someone was looking for Costume, Journal of the
Costume Society of England.
I have four copies listed on Ebay as well as two copies of Dress, Journal of the
Costume Society of America.

Bookmark me (books7) for a continuous listing of  costume and fashion titles
through the summer.
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=books7&sort=3&since=-1&page=1&rows=0

Some of the new listings from the last 2 days are below. They all need new homes
so check them
out for really great prices......

Lois

Wilcox's  Folk Festival Costume of the World
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103726745

Cunnington's Handbook of English Costume of the 16th Century
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103729167

Picken's Language of Fashion
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103812538

Laver's Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103815676

von Boehn's Die Mode  (Middle Ages) in German
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=103916323

Ribeiro's Visual Histosry of Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104295529

Ealres' Costume of Colonial Times
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104298898

Dress
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104335525

Dress
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104337293

Cumming's Royal Dress
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104357721

Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104558801

Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104560660

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 15:18:33 1999
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Subject: H-COST: fabric paints
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-Poster: Jean1Cait1@aol.com

Greetings to the list,
I am sure this has been tossed around before, but being new to the list, I 
have a question in regards to fabric painting on material being period before 
the 1600's.

It is to my knowledge that stamping was period, but to what extent?  I have 
seen garb being worn with the thin lines of  "tulip" acrylic paint and I have 
a hard time with accepting it.  Is this acceptable?

Cheers!
Caitrin
England
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Subject: H-COST: Wooden Busks
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>

A little information from Karen Mullian ("Had on and Took with Her")....



--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: Booboopies@aol.com
To: kayherb@juno.com
Subject: Re: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>: H-COST: Wooden Busks
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:55:28 EDT
Message-ID: <b5180da6.246f0100@aol.com>

Kay,

Busks were often painted or carved and were indeed tokens of affection 
between a man and a woman. I don't know the degree of intimacy that was 
required for such gifts, but it seems to be somehow related to the
carving of 
lovespoons which was common among the Welsh.

Karen
--------- End forwarded message ----------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 15:39:27 1999
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From: Lynn Carpenter <alwen@i2k.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sort of OT, yellowed silk?
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-Poster: Lynn Carpenter <alwen@i2k.com>

Now that I'm pregnant and everything is too hot, I've been wearing my silk
blouses more than my cotton ones.  I have a white one my mom gave me about
five years ago which has turned ivory.  Is there a safe-for-silk way to
whiten it, or should I just accept this color?

And since I'll be having a baby in some three months, how about sources for
11th century (post Norman Invasion) baby/toddler clothes?  (Boy's clothes,
if the ultrasound is to be trusted.)

Alwen

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 19:34:05 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


-Greetings!

Henk said,
>I don't know if you people out there ever get a chance to see people
>dressed up in good woollen and linen replica's of late 12th to early 14th c
>costume, but if you have or will, you'll be impressed by the simple
>elegance of this kind of dress, even for the lower classes.


I've just finished such a dress.  It's a darkish green woolen material, with
a gored construction (both front and side gores).  I sewed the whole thing
by hand, and I was really trying to duplicate that loose upper-sleeved,
tight lower sleeved look of the thirteenth century (which I did via handsewn
eyelets, which are laced with fingerloop-braided cord, from about an inch
below the elbow down).  Round neck, finished a la Museum of London (with a
piece of ribbon--I used twill tape, since I had no silk ribbon) sewn down
over the folded edge on the inside.  No trim at all. It'll be worn with my
existing handsewn linen smock.  I'm extremely happy with the way it hangs,
and I think I've finally got this particular look "right." It's probably the
most authentic dress I've ever made, and it makes me want to go out and make
*more*!

Susan Carroll-Clark

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 20:48:23 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Perhaps Henk or one of you others could help me out with some
information concerning religious orders habit at the time of the French
Revolution (1790's or so).  I'm in an Opera Workshop scene from
"Dialogue of the Carmelites"(surealistic, I hear) and will be costuming
myself and two other women.  When I did "Suor Angelica"  I based my
costumes on an illustration in a Dover book about historic costume.  It
showed Nuns in white dresses and wimples, with black tabards and veils. 
At the moment, I have a hard time getting to my library, as it is still
packed away because of my move and subsequent messy renovation work. 
Can I go with the white habit again?  We'll be performing in August
without air-conditioning so I'll probably use a linen-type fabric
(allergies to wool).  Coments would be welcomed.  I usually find out
what is correct for the period, then adapt it to theater usage.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 15 23:29:48 1999
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From: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>
Organization: Hawkeswood Productions
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Subject: H-COST: [Fwd: Reconstructing Ancient Egyptian Costumes]
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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------E0D32EFC6F4914667E8533C1
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Can anyone help this poor soul out?

I'm local, but I'm not sure what to tell him/her.

Thanks!

-betsy
--
Betsy R. Delaney
Webmistress at large
************************************************************************
             betsy@hawkeswood.com or betsy@ability.net
       http://www.hawkeswood.com/, home of Hawkeswood Designs
     and http://www.Costume-Con.org/, home of Costume-ConNections
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 21:55:22 EDT
Subject: Reconstructing Ancient Egyptian Costumes
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Dear Betsy,
	
	I am a dancer/choreographer who has created a 90 minute dance piece 
on the history and myths of Ancient Egypt. This production premiered in 
Berlin, Germany in 1996 where it was critically acclaimed by the press. 
Another German production took place in 1997. I am currently working on a new 
version of the piece with my dance company based in the Greater Washington 
area. (That's right, your back yard.) 

	The past German productions of my work did not use my costuming 
research and I was quite dissatisfied with the results. I have been 
collecting information for years, visiting major Egytpian collections in 
Cairo, Berlin, and New York. I have designed several sets of costumes for the 
new production; they not only look right but can be danced in. Replicas of 
ancient Egyptian beaded collars and pectorals also augment the garments. We 
hope to purchase the appropriate wigs next month.

	So far, so good. But I have really hit an obstacle with the costumes 
for the dance of the priestesses. The garments are supposed to look like 
those tight fitting white linen dresses. Since linen wrinkles, we opted for a 
rayon/poly blend that holds its shapes, has a nice delayed line (so important 
in dance) and is fairly sheer -- especially when back lit. Now unless those 
Egyptians wore lycra, I cannot figure out how they managed to walk, let alone 
dance, in such tight dresses. (We are already using some Old Kingdom dance 
kilts in a couple of pieces.)  Some artifacts show pleated dresses which 
would of course allow for a greater range of movement. But many depictions 
are simply sheath dresses. We could purchase pre-pleated fabric, but it is 
quite expensive and I must build at least eight costumes.

	I would love to simply kick around some ideas with others who are 
interested in costume reconstruction. I am not asking anyone to do my 
research for me. Perhaps you know someone in our area who would be interested 
in discussing this with me. Or maybe this period is too early for mainstream 
costumers. 

	Any ideas? 

	I appreciate your time for simply reading this inquiry. It would be 
wonderful if you could point me in the right direction. 

	Many thanks,

	L.V. Gray

	


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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Help with religious costume
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 00:52:59 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


-Greetings!

>Perhaps Henk or one of you others could help me out with some
>information concerning religious orders habit at the time of the French
>Revolution (1790's or so).  I'm in an Opera Workshop scene from
>"Dialogue of the Carmelites"(surealistic, I hear) and will be costuming
>myself and two other women.  When I did "Suor Angelica"  I based my
>costumes on an illustration in a Dover book about historic costume.  It
>showed Nuns in white dresses and wimples, with black tabards and veils.


The specific garments and colors of nuns' dress varied from order to order,
as it still does.  The black veil (worn over a white one underneath) was
usually typical of a "choir nun", while a lay sister generally only wore a
white veil.  The "tabard" you describe is called a scapular.  Not all orders
of nuns wore them, and they were not always black--Dominican nuns, for
instance, wore white scapulars.  I'm guessing what you have would be OK for
a "generic nun."  However, Davenport's _Book of Costume_ describes the habit
of a Carmelite friar as consisting of a white cloak over a brown tunic.  I
know that at least with the Dominicans, the color schemes adopted by the
affiliated orders of nuns were the same as those worn by the friars--e.g.
Dominican friars also wore a white tunic and scapular (although they added
the distinctive black cappa that gave them the name "Blackfriars")  I'm also
pretty sure the Carmelite nuns wear brown these days as well.

Susan


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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: trim/embellishment for surcotes?
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

It's probably not period, but it does work from the aesthetic angle, and
I've gotten tons of compliments on it, even from people who know their
costuming far better than I ever will:

Do a double trim. Use a double bias tape (the kind that has a fold
straight down the middle) as the bottom layer, laying it across the
armscye along the fold and sewing both front and back down. Then put a
very fine trim on top of it, which picks up the color of the surcoat. The
one I did this for is a dark forest green; I used a narrow deep brown
bias tape, and put a delicate trim in gold with tiny bright green squares
on top. It's very subtle and rich looking.


					Arlys


On Sat, 15 May 1999 10:03:53 -0500 (CDT) "Sara J. Davitt"
<ophelia@dias.net> writes:
>
>-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>
>
>
>if I remember right, it was peasant/herald piece of clothing.. more
>borderline apron than 'public wear'... and the only thing I have seen 
>with
>them is VERy simple heraldic, if you are doing heraldic things... OR
>contrasting edging. *take a different fabric, and make a 3 inch 
>edge...
>looks better than mini bias tapes*
>
>THough some people smooge it towards the viking side, and put big old
>brooches over each collarbone, and wear lots of jewelry.
>
>good luck!
>Sarahj
>
>**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 04:36:24 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

> And I should probably mention that it seems the Church (or rather,
> individuals within the Church, since the Church as a whole never made a
> statement about secular clothing) complained much about clothing, but
that
> it had little effect on actual fashion.

>Hear, hear!

Don't take this as me having a go, but I'm really really baffled by this
statement.........


So the fact that women covered their hair after marriage was not connected
in any way with marriage being a church orientated event ?

In what way do you think the two events happen simultaniously (sp?) if the
church had no influence of clothing and therefore fashion ?????

They wore roseries purely because they liked them not because a rosery was
connected with the Church ? It was mearly a fashion accessory ?

The fashions that originally were brought back from the crusades were not
connected with the church because the church in no way inspired the
crusades in the first place ? And I though the crusades were inspired by
religion !

Differences in the clothing of Jews another influence ?

Even the wearing of things disapporved of by the Church can be seen as
influenced by that disapproval, just by existing the Church had some
influence & by being in such a prominant posistion in the social strata the
influence would be pretty strong.

The complaining may not have had directly any influence on fashion, ie in
terms of laying laws or notice taken exactly to their complaints.But the
Church was a hugh influence on society of the time and the effects of that
were far reaching including clothing trends. Subtle in many ways, but the
influence is certainly there, if you follow any fashion there are always
certain political and social influences that bring about those trends, that
is what makes fashion the way the world is going at that time, new fabrics
from new lands, new ideas, ideals , other cultural influences previously
unseen. Fashion is based on everything that happens withing a given frame &
that that went before and is anticipated. 

I cannot see how you can possibily remove the Church from the equation so
sweepingly.

Not wishing to be difficult, but completly baffled by the statement !

Mel
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Wooden busks
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-Poster: ArcadiaCB@aol.com

Since no one else has jumped in for a reply, I'll give a very untechincal 
reply on busks, according to my readings and knowledge of them.   The busk is 
the front center stiffening piece of a corset. Varied in width and length (a 
nice long one could serve to flatten the tummy as well ). Many corsets had a 
busk casing in the center front where a removable busk could be inserted, 
then removed for cleaning the corset. Made of wood, ivory, steel, possibly 
very thick stiff leather. In the early 19th c "soft" unboned corsets, the 
busk might be the only real boning.    The front center piece of a front 
hooking later style corset is still referred to as the busk. The "lover's 
busk"  connotation comes from the fact that sometimes they were carved with 
designs, initials, etc., and given as lovers gifts (couldn't get much closer 
to a woman's heart than there). Often you will see lovely scrimshaw (whale 
ivory) ones that sailors carved while on sea journeys.  In a modern context, 
I have a friend whose husband made a lovely wooden  one for his wife for her 
to wear with her historical clothing.
   As for pics, the only one I think of any offhand, is showing a modern 
reproduction one--page 55 (section on stays and jumps) of Beth Gilgun's 
"Tidings from the 18th Century". A good place to look would be in a book on 
sailors art since they were often carved from scrimshaw.  Every one in a 
while one will show up at an antique show (just saw one recently).  To see  
"where" they go, refer to the c1598 stays in Janet Arnold's  "Patterns of 
Fashion 1560--1620" --the pattern has the casing in front for a busk to be 
slipped into.  Also see "Revolution in Fashion 1715--1815" on page 103 
showing 4 early 19th century soft corsets and that long center piece has a 
"busk" slipped into the busk casing of the corsets.  If you are making one, 
when making the c1598 stays for someone, I used a paint paddle (that you get 
at a paint store for stirring paint) since it seemed about the right size. I 
bought a pretty (plain) wooden one from a sutler several years ago. 
   Hope that sheds some light on the the subject.
Charlene Bullard
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 04:36 AM 05/16/1999 -0400, Melanie Wilson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>> And I should probably mention that it seems the Church (or rather,
>> individuals within the Church, since the Church as a whole never made a
>> statement about secular clothing) complained much about clothing, but
>that
>> it had little effect on actual fashion.
>
>>Hear, hear!
>
>Don't take this as me having a go, but I'm really really baffled by this
>statement.........
>
>So the fact that women covered their hair after marriage was not connected
>in any way with marriage being a church orientated event ?
>
>In what way do you think the two events happen simultaniously (sp?) if the
>church had no influence of clothing and therefore fashion ?????

Women covering their hair after marraige was something adopted from the
general culture, not something required _de novo_ by the Church. And one of
the problems the Church had for *many* centuries was trying to convince
people to be married by a priest. Marriage is and has been a primarily civil
contract between the two parties (and their families).

>They wore roseries purely because they liked them not because a rosery was
>connected with the Church ? It was mearly a fashion accessory ?

Rosaries are one way to show one's piety; the styles of rosaries have change
through the centuries. It is sometimes hard to tell if a string of beads is
a rosary or a bracelet or a necklace. In Europe after the Reformation,
rosaries could be used to make political statements as much as religious
ones. People in many cultures around the world use a string of beads to aid
recall or counting of prayers.

>The fashions that originally were brought back from the crusades were not
>connected with the church because the church in no way inspired the
>crusades in the first place ? And I though the crusades were inspired by
>religion !

While the crusades may have been originally inspired by religion, for many
of the participants they were opportunities for plunder of various sorts.
People brought back ideas (and actual items) for clothing because they liked
them, not because the Church encouraged them.

>Differences in the clothing of Jews another influence ?

The "distinctive" clothing of Jews in many parts of Europe were decreed by
the civil, not religious, authorities. If you remove the decreed
distinctions (odd-looking hat, badge on clothing, etc.), Jews dressed pretty
much like their Christian neighbors. And in countries without decreed
distinctions, you would need to know some of the more subtle cultural clues
to tell Jews from Christians. So, while the *idea* of trying to make Jews
easy to tell from Christians may have originated with the Church, the actual
decrees requiring some "difference" and defining it came from the civil
authorities.

>Even the wearing of things disapporved of by the Church can be seen as
>influenced by that disapproval, just by existing the Church had some
>influence & by being in such a prominant posistion in the social strata the
>influence would be pretty strong.

One problem the Church had in trying to influence European clothing styles
came from the fact that the upper ruling classes typically ignored their
complaints (hasn't changed much <g>), even when they were threatened with
eternal damnation for wearing a particular style.

>The complaining may not have had directly any influence on fashion, ie in
>terms of laying laws or notice taken exactly to their complaints.But the
>Church was a hugh influence on society of the time and the effects of that
>were far reaching including clothing trends. Subtle in many ways, but the
>influence is certainly there, if you follow any fashion there are always
>certain political and social influences that bring about those trends, that
>is what makes fashion the way the world is going at that time, new fabrics
>from new lands, new ideas, ideals , other cultural influences previously
>unseen. Fashion is based on everything that happens withing a given frame &
>that that went before and is anticipated. 
>
>I cannot see how you can possibily remove the Church from the equation so
>sweepingly.
>
>Not wishing to be difficult, but completly baffled by the statement !
>
>Mel

As you state, there are *many* influences on fashions, and, during its
period of greatest influence in Europe, the Roman Church may have had a
small influence on some people in this regard, but I would not assign it a
major role. Preachers usually railed against anything *new* and supported
"the good old days"; this does not, to my mind, translate into great
influence. It's the same sort of argument about "the younger generation is
corrupt and society was better when I was young" that *every* generation has
heard for millenia <g>.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Wooden busks
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Charlene and List,

Wooden rulers work really well for 1770s stays -- of course depending on how 
long your front line is. Just pull out that metal edge! Of the many 18th 
century stays that I've seen, very few have busk pockets or evidence of busk 
restraints. Gravity held in place? Any thoughts?

Sally 

http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
Available June 1, 1999

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 11:32:25 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

First of all, I apologize for the original statement.  It seems I was not
clear enough.  I thought when I was saying "The Church had little effect on
actual fashion, " I was referring to the evolution of everyday wear, and the
Church's inability to regulate it.  For instance, I've read accounts of
clergy attacking everything from skirts which drag the ground to colored
veils to revealing surcotes to pointy-toed shoes.  Did people stop wearing
these things because someone in the Church complained?  No. Various clergy
often complained about brightly-colored fabrics, and the vanity and pride
exhibited by those who wore them.  Did people stop wearing them as a result?
No.
Did the Church write these strictures into canon law?  No.  Were they part
of any official doctrine?  No.  That means that any advice about clothing by
clergy was really only a suggestion of proper behavior.

It's a far different thing to claim that the Church--or better yet,
religious piety as a whole (which is a different thing from "the Church")
had *no* influence on clothing (rather than "fashion," as I said earlier),
and I was doing no such thing.

>So the fact that women covered their hair after marriage was not connected
>in any way with marriage being a church orientated event ?


Yes and no.  First, through most of the early Middle Ages and even into the
later Middle Ages, marriage, although recognized as a sacrament of the
Church in the twelfth century, was as much, or more, a cultural phenomenom.
Most marriages did not happen in churches (one traditional place in England
was "at the church door"--the church fulfilled the function of a city hall
in many parishes.  There was a requirement for witnesses, but not even for a
priest at first. )

Yes, there is Biblical precedent for women covering their hair after
marriage.  But that doesn't completely explain it.  Veils and headgear
clearly became items of fashion as well.  If they were purely religious in
function, you would expect little change over two millenia.

>In what way do you think the two events happen simultaniously (sp?) if the
>church had no influence of clothing and therefore fashion ?????

Have you read exactly what regulations the Church put on clothing for
secular people?  There were very, very few.  For instance, I've yet to come
across a church writer of the Middle Ages castigating a married woman for
not covering her hair.  I've yet to come across strictures in canon law
about fashion or dress for anyone other than religious (priests, monks,
nuns).  Almost all of the complaints about fashion are made within the
context of moral treatises--usually by individual clergy (not bishops or the
Pope)--about how society is going to rack and ruin, and here's some examples
from the world of fashion to back them up.


>They wore roseries purely because they liked them not because a rosery was
>connected with the Church ? It was mearly a fashion accessory ?


The Rosary was a lay devotion.  Of course, the Church liked to encourage lay
piety, but very quickly, the production of rosaries acquired very strong
secular overtones.  You don't need a rosary of precious stones, or with
tremendously-detailed carved beads which open to reveal a scene, to do the
devotion.  In fact, you don't need a rosary at all--it merely helps you keep
count.  A string with knots in it works just as well.

>The fashions that originally were brought back from the crusades were not
>connected with the church because the church in no way inspired the
>crusades in the first place ? And I though the crusades were inspired by
>religion !


Wait a minute.  You're seriously claiming that the economic effects of the
Crusades had to do with "the Church"?  Did the Church require Crusaders to
bring back fabrics?  Yes, there's a very long string of cause-and-effect at
work, but claiming that the Church was responsible for changes in fashion
due to the Crusades is a mighty big stretch in logic.

>Differences in the clothing of Jews another influence ?


Almost every rule requiring Jews to wear distinctive clothing is a secular
one, which is why the requirements differ from place to place.  Did
religious beliefs about the Jews inspire this?  Yes, certainly.  Were they
promulgated by "the Church"?  For the most part, no.

>Even the wearing of things disapporved of by the Church can be seen as
>influenced by that disapproval, just by existing the Church had some
>influence & by being in such a prominant posistion in the social strata the
>influence would be pretty strong.

I guess my quibble is with use of the term "the Church." Again, I'm coming
from a specialist background (defending my dissertation on a topic regarding
religious education this week), but "the Church" to me implies policy at a
high level.  I repeat, there was little or no policy at a high level
concerning secular clothing.  A good comparison would be this:  suppose a
high school institutes a requirement for uniforms for their students.  Would
you then say "The Schools" had instituted such a requirement, or would you
credit it to an individual school?  "The Church" works the same way.  There
is a lot of local variance, a lot of disagreement amongst clergy on items
outside canon law, and even on some matters of doctrine.  This is not to
discount the importance of religion in lay society--far from it. Religion
underlay much of medieval society.  It's merely to point out that this
control was as often as not at the local level, and laypeople had a lot more
influence in it than is commonly thought.  The mistake is confusing medieval
religion with "the Church," when it's so much more than that, and so much
more complicated.

>The complaining may not have had directly any influence on fashion, ie in
>terms of laying laws or notice taken exactly to their complaints.But the
>Church was a hugh influence on society of the time and the effects of that
>were far reaching including clothing trends.

>I cannot see how you can possibily remove the Church from the equation so
>sweepingly.


You misunderstand me vastly, and I apologize for being so obtuse in my
statements.  I would heartily agree that RELIGION was a huge influence on
society at the time.  I would not say "the Church,"--at least in the case of
fashion (politics is another matter altogether :-) because that implies
control on a level at which it did not exist.  When you change "the Church"
to "religion," the statement becomes accurate, and you also allow for
laypeople to make modifications or changes to clothing or behavior because
of personal religious piety, not simply because someone else says they have
to.  You also allow for local variation. Do you see the difference?  It may
be semantics, and I may be nitpicking, I agree.  But the nature of lay piety
is often very poorly understood, especially the fact that they were often
the ones who controlled the nature of their piety, not churchmen.

Susan

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Help with religious costume
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:39:01 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi list,

Janice wrote:
> Perhaps Henk or one of you others could help me out with some
> information concerning religious orders habit at the time of the French
> Revolution (1790's or so).  I'm in an Opera Workshop scene from
> "Dialogue of the Carmelites"(surealistic, I hear) and will be costuming
> myself and two other women.  When I did "Suor Angelica"  I based my
> costumes on an illustration in a Dover book about historic costume.  It
> showed Nuns in white dresses and wimples, with black tabards and veils. 
> At the moment, I have a hard time getting to my library, as it is still
> packed away because of my move and subsequent messy renovation work. 
> Can I go with the white habit again?  We'll be performing in August
> without air-conditioning so I'll probably use a linen-type fabric
> (allergies to wool).  Coments would be welcomed.  I usually find out
> what is correct for the period, then adapt it to theater usage.

It's a bit far out of my period, but Carmelites wore brown habits, hoods
and scapulars, with white mantles at ceremonial or official occasions. So
white habits are out. I have no pictures of Carmelite nuns, so I could not
tell you what kind of headcovering they wore; it should at least be a white
wimple, but if the veil over it was black or brown I don't know. Anybody
else?

If you cannot stand real woollen garments, try to get worsted. It is wool
as well, but not as heavy and itchy, and it drapes well. Incidentally; the
brown should not be too dark.

Hope this helps,

Henk

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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 13:39:42 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster: Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>
 
>Did the Church write these strictures into canon law?  No.  Were they part
>of any official doctrine?  No.  That means that any advice about clothing by
>clergy was really only a suggestion of proper behavior.
 
I have a couple of comments and questions here. :-)

I was born and raised in Britain, and up until about 15 years ago, it was 
frowned upon for women not to wear something covering their heads (hat, 
anything) to go to church (C of E).  It certainly seemed to be related to 
being in church rather than because of fashion.  It's relaxed a lot over the 
past two decades, but older ladies still do it.  On the other hand, men are 
supposed to take their hats off in church (again usually older gents these 
days), and thirdly, when we used to go into church on Armastice day each 
November with the Girl Scouts, we wern't allowed to wear any knives in the 
house of God.  

Our community in Wales is a VERY old and static one.  Around the church are 5 
yew trees to keep away the evil spirits, for instance, and part of the wall 
of the church has Roman grave stones found at the site built into it.

I somehow think the practices regarding women covering their heads are 
remnants of what has been maintained through Christian history there, 
(incidentally as is the old almost died out practice of widows wearing navy 
blue from the deaths of their husbands until their own death).  Again I think 
that women covering their heads has more of a religious basis than fashion. 
:-)

>>The fashions that originally were brought back from the crusades were not
>>connected with the church because the church in no way inspired the
>>crusades in the first place ? And I though the crusades were inspired by
>>religion !

>Wait a minute.  You're seriously claiming that the economic effects of the
>Crusades had to do with "the Church"?  Did the Church require Crusaders to
>bring back fabrics?  Yes, there's a very long string of cause-and-effect at
>work, but claiming that the Church was responsible for changes in fashion
>due to the Crusades is a mighty big stretch in logic.
 
In Britain, again, there has always been an awe of the exotic and different. 
Whether it was because of snobbery, status, or sheer imagination, things from 
other countries are and always have embraced and exhalted over.  It makes 
sense that the Crusade would have become a vehicle, despite the original 
eason for their being, (religious, economical, power whatever) which allowed 
more exotic and foreign ideas and resources to come into Britain by means of 
the many travellers to and from the wars and the increased exposure to the 
resources my many gentles from Europe having to live in that part of the 
world for that period in time. 

I think that in an age where we have such instant communication and  
knowledge available to us, sometimes we tend to forget how in times past 
people could only experience things by doing and being and learning for 
themselves at the time (except by stories from others!). ;-)

I'm sure, for instance, that even though trade routes were established, and 
various exotic things were available to the British before the Crusades ever 
got underway, to the actual soldiers/people who went over there, stayed and 
came home, and the things they found there such as fabrics, spices, foods, 
fashions were different and often awesome to them and the exposure of Britain 
to such things was duly increased by the personal bringing home of the 
stories and objects by the Crusaders to their folks and homes. And I can see 
how this influence very well could have a profound effect on fashion.  

Also, I know that ladies who'd husbands were away, for instance, were apt to 
wear chemises that were longer bigger versions of those the husband wore 
while away at war (often in a Saffron colour I believe? - Please correct me 
on this, I'm half remembering it) as a symbol of their connectedness to their 
Lord Husband. 

Having spouted all of this (I know I"m rambling a bit but I havn't had my 
coffee yet!)  I have two questions.

1.  What clothing / fashion/ style changes DID we see from the infuence of 
the Crusades, and

2.  The Plague.  What effect did the plague and the relief after the Plague 
was over have on fashion?  I hear it was one of the causes of the more 
frivolous styles that emerged in that period?

Anyone?

Elysant de Holtham

PS 
>suppose a
>high school institutes a requirement for uniforms for their students.  Would
>you then say "The Schools" had instituted such a requirement, or would you
>credit it to an individual school?   

ummmm.....   In Britain, public schools wear uniforms because goverment 
education authority for a part of the country has established that - not each 
individual school.  Each school may decide on different uniforms, but the 
decision to wear them or not is far more centrally organized.  I suppose with 
this issue it's the country and context you're talking about that counts, and 
there are differences in this concept between Britain and the US.   (It was 
Britain the original poster was referencing?)

(Another example of central control of what people wear in certain contexts 
is when I was in Nursing school (government run)in Britain, I wore the 
Student Nurse uniform (yellow) which was standard for all of South Wales.  I 
was given an issue of 10 of them by the hospital. It wasn't up to the 
hospital to make policy on what we wore.  
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:43:35 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


-Greetings!

>I was born and raised in Britain, and up until about 15 years ago, it was
>frowned upon for women not to wear something covering their heads (hat,
>anything) to go to church (C of E).  It certainly seemed to be related to
>being in church rather than because of fashion.  It's relaxed a lot over
the
>past two decades, but older ladies still do it.

Yes, this specifically relates to a clothing item worn *in* church.  That's
a different kettle of fish altogether (and not completely church-specific,
as you've pointed out.).  It's usually understood that "in the Middle Ages,
married women covered thier hair" not just in church, but all the time.

>I somehow think the practices regarding women covering their heads are
>remnants of what has been maintained through Christian history there,
>(incidentally as is the old almost died out practice of widows wearing navy
>blue from the deaths of their husbands until their own death).  Again I
think
>that women covering their heads has more of a religious basis than fashion.
>:-)


Mourning clothes are also not something which were stipulated by religion,
but by cultural tradition.  Look, for instance, at Catholic countries today.
I know that many Portuguese ladies (especially from rural areas) still
maintain the tradition of black clothes in widowhood.  Compare that to
France, or to the Catholic areas of Germany, where it's almost entirely
absent.  That tells me that mourning traditions are cultural, not religious,
although they may indeed be linked to religion.
The same goes for traditions of honor.  Men in the U.S. normally take off
hats when the National Anthem is played, for instance, regardless of
religious beliefs, as a symbol of respect.  I believe the same premise
underlies the tradition of tipping one's hat to a lady. The practice
certainly may have started as a religious one, but now, it's gone far beyond
that.


>In Britain, again, there has always been an awe of the exotic and
different.
>Whether it was because of snobbery, status, or sheer imagination, things
from
>other countries are and always have embraced and exhalted over.  It makes
>sense that the Crusade would have become a vehicle, despite the original
>eason for their being, (religious, economical, power whatever) which
allowed
>more exotic and foreign ideas and resources to come into Britain by means
of
>the many travellers to and from the wars and the increased exposure to the
>resources my many gentles from Europe having to live in that part of the
>world for that period in time.


Oh, I'm not disputing the idea of the Crusades as a medium for conveying new
ideas--that's well documented in about every field from medicine to fashion.
My quibble is with the idea that because the Crusades originally had a
religious motivation, you can credit "the Church" with all of these new
ideas.


>Also, I know that ladies who'd husbands were away, for instance, were apt
to
>wear chemises that were longer bigger versions of those the husband wore
>while away at war (often in a Saffron colour I believe? - Please correct me
>on this, I'm half remembering it) as a symbol of their connectedness to
their
>Lord Husband.


This is one I haven't run across, and I'd love to hear more--time period?
Class?  Is it mentioned in any contemporary documents?

>1.  What clothing / fashion/ style changes DID we see from the infuence of
>the Crusades, and


Surcotes are a possibility.  They may have been developed to keep the dust
off of armor in the Holy Lands and spread to civilian wear--first to men,
then to women.


>ummmm.....   In Britain, public schools wear uniforms because goverment
>education authority for a part of the country has established that - not
each
>individual school.  Each school may decide on different uniforms, but the
>decision to wear them or not is far more centrally organized.  I suppose
with
>this issue it's the country and context you're talking about that counts,
and
>there are differences in this concept between Britain and the US.   (It was
>Britain the original poster was referencing?)

I wrote the bit about "the Schools," and I was referring to US public
schools.  But even so, my example is still good.  In Britain, would you say
"the Schools" require that girls wear a plaid skirt, white blouse, and red
vest/waistcoat, if that's not what's required on a national or regional
level?  Or would you qualify it by saying "All schools in East Anglia wear
such and such kinds of uniforms"?  That's what I'm getting at with not using
"the Church", because precisely that kind of variation exists within it,
which may have a root in local culture.  Widows in Portugal don't wear black
because the Church requires it;  they wear it because it's part of their
culture and a sign of respect.

Susan


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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:04:20 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <000c01be9fcc$02702000$791bbfa8@dsc>
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster: Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>

 
>Yes, this specifically relates to a clothing item worn *in* church.  That's
>a different kettle of fish altogether (and not completely church-specific,
>as you've pointed out.).  It's usually understood that "in the Middle Ages,
>married women covered thier hair" not just in church, but all the time.
 
So it's sorting out what's custom and what's religious then.

 
>Oh, I'm not disputing the idea of the Crusades as a medium for conveying new
>ideas--that's well documented in about every field from medicine to fashion.
>My quibble is with the idea that because the Crusades originally had a
>religious motivation, you can credit "the Church" with all of these new
>ideas.

I agree with that.  I don't think the Church can be credited with such 
things.

>>Also, I know that ladies who'd husbands were away, for instance, were apt
>to
>>wear chemises that were longer bigger versions of those the husband wore
>>while away at war (often in a Saffron colour I believe? - Please correct me
>>on this, I'm half remembering it) as a symbol of their connectedness to
>their
>>Lord Husband.
>
>
>This is one I haven't run across, and I'd love to hear more--time period?
>Class?  Is it mentioned in any contemporary documents?

I sw it on a web page.  I'd have to do a search for it again.  I'll let you 
know whan I find it.

>>1.  What clothing / fashion/ style changes DID we see from the infuence of
>>the Crusades, and

>Surcotes are a possibility.  They may have been developed to keep the dust
>off of armor in the Holy Lands and spread to civilian wear--first to men,
>then to women.

Interesting isn't it?

>I wrote the bit about "the Schools," and I was referring to US public
>schools.  But even so, my example is still good.  In Britain, would you say
>"the Schools" require that girls wear a plaid skirt, white blouse, and red
>vest/waistcoat, if that's not what's required on a national or regional
>level?

No you'd say the specific regional board of education rules are - uniform.  
The schools rules are what is the uniform for that school.  The regional 
board would have no say in that.
  
I understand :-)

Elysant
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Adrian
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:21:39 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Can someone please help this person.  Please respond back to the Jerry, =
quickdrop@quickdrop.com .=20

Later...Penny

>I am looking for information regarding an original drawing that I have =
by Adrian.

>The drawings are in pencil and water color on a piece of 9" by 17 1/2" =
old tan colored (bumpy) paper.
>The drawings are for "Madame Su Duchesse d'ayeu" (sp?) on the left.
>and for "Madame de Saint Paul" on the right. they are facing each =
other.=20
>The drawing is signed and has 2-3 dozen various water color paint drips =
(small in size) on it.
>
>We would like to do a collage, but are not sure which movie these =
designs were for.
>Can you point me in the right direction? Do you have any idea what the =
drawing may be worth?
>It is in excellent condition.
>
>Jerry Kelley, webmaster
quickdrop@quickdrop.com


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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Can someone please help this =
person.&nbsp;=20
Please respond back to the Jerry, <FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:quickdrop@quickdrop.com">quickdrop@quickdrop.com</A>=20
.&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Later...Penny</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;I am looking for information regarding an =
original drawing=20
that I have by Adrian.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;The drawings are in pencil and water color on a =
piece of=20
9&quot; by 17 1/2&quot; old tan colored (bumpy) paper.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;The drawings are for &quot;Madame Su Duchesse =
d'ayeu&quot;=20
(sp?) on the left.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;and for &quot;Madame de Saint Paul&quot; on the =
right.=20
they are facing each other. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;The drawing is signed and has 2-3 dozen various =
water=20
color paint drips (small in size) on it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;We would like to do a collage, but are not sure =
which=20
movie these designs were for.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;Can you point me in the right direction? Do you =
have any=20
idea what the drawing may be worth?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;It is in excellent condition.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;Jerry Kelley, webmaster</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:quickdrop@quickdrop.com">quickdrop@quickdrop.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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-Poster: Kimberly K Dobbs <kimberlykdobbs@juno.com>






Hello everyone!


I have a couple of questions! 

1. I am currently attempting to make silk flowers such as the ones
featured in Victoria magazine, etc. Does anyone know where to purchase or
how to make  the tools to crimp and curl the edges? I have searched for
the information but nothing has turned up.

2. I am also dyeing my fabrics for a variety of projects, such as the
flowers, purses, etc. What types of natural substances could be used to
achieve the following colors:  red, yellow, green, pink, lilac. 

Thank you in advance for any information!

Kimberly



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 16 17:20:48 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I am sure this has been tossed around before, but being new to the list, I 
> have a question in regards to fabric painting on material being period before 
> the 1600's.

Sure is.

> It is to my knowledge that stamping was period, but to what extent?  I have 
> seen garb being worn with the thin lines of  "tulip" acrylic paint and I have 
> a hard time with accepting it.  Is this acceptable?

You have an advantage over many people on the list in that you live 
in Britain. If you get the chance to be in London, go to the textile 
rooms in the V&A and start pulling out the trays in the time period 
you are interested. In the section of "printed fabrics" for pre1600, 
there some pretty interesting pieces. There was one fairly early one 
(?14th or 15th Century, but my notes are still in the depths of my as 
yet to be unpacked suitcase) of a dark red fabric which had had gum 
arabic painted on in a flor de lis pattern and gold leaf applied. 
They had other pieces where paint had been used (and this was before 
they started using large stamps which imitated the brocades of the 
time.) Those seemed to be 15th and 16th century.One reference book 
you might look for is Stuart Robinson's (sp?) History of Printed 
Textiles. You might find it in the library but I also saw several 
copies when I was shopping along Charing Cross in London. (I didn't 
get it because I already had one. No use getting 2, especially with 
the cost of shipping from England to the US!)

As far as tulip paints, I have never seen anything similar to that. 
However, acrylic paint put on with a roller, stamp or paintbrush I 
could accept. 

Some of what is listed as "stamped" in the textiles I saw there and 
one of the other museums I visited (? Nottingham's Costume and 
Textile Museum?) had designs pressed into satins and velvets. It was 
often accompanied by slashing and little prickings which were 
abraided to make the design stand out. Most of these were mid to late 
16th century as well as early 17th Century.

I hope this gives you some idea of where to look for the information 
you need.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 16 19:43:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 01:28:53 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wooden Busks
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I have found reference to a wood busk in Corsets and Crinolines (Norah
>Waugh) under the chapter "construction of corsets" ( page 154 in the
>souftbound editions)  and was wondering if more information could be >got
on such things.  

I must ask, "when" are we talking?  I'm familiar with 16th century stuff,
in particular England.

>As I seem to recall somewhere in this fog that I call a brain, they >were
often called Lover's Busks and were given to ladies by their >lovers or
husbands.  

Can't say as I've ever heard that one.  Are you perchance confusing it with
the concept of the giving of the busk ribbon as an intmate "favor?"
 
>What I am interested in is references, construction tips, samples, >pics,
notes, tips from people who have made them....basically anything >and
all... since I can't find reference to them anywhere but in this >book.

Well, I can't remember ever seeing any extant ones for the 16th century so
I decided on how to make mine by deduction.  In Arnold's "Patterns of
Fashion 1560-1620" there is a photo of an extant "pair of bodies" or
corset.  The busk pocket is very easy to recognise - a rectangular pocket
center fron running the full length of the corset surrounded by narrow
casings full of reeds.  

The busk pocket has a pair of eyelet holes going through all layers,
centered a little ways up from the bottom.  This is where the busk ribbon
would go (if you don't tie them in they tend to jump up and get you in the
chin when you least expect it).  ;)

Therefore I made my busk 1 5/8" wide (the size of flat wooden moulding I
used) pine with a pair of holes drilled through it which correspond to the
ones on the corset.  The length varies with personal taste.  For example, a
friend of mine likes the "point" (it's actually squared not at all pointy)
of her corset to hit a couple of inches lower on her than I like mine.
Ergo the length would be appropriate to the individual corset.  The only
other thing I did to it was sand the edges round - for ease of insertion
and to make sure there are no splinters.

I hope this helps.  Good luck.

Cheers,
Danielle

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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Henk and Susan,
Would a "Car(a)mel" :>D color brown be okay for the nun's habit?

Janice Dallas
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Help with religious costume
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>Henk and Susan,
>Would a "Car(a)mel" :>D color brown be okay for the nun's habit?


Depends whether it's a light or dark carmel :-)  I'd go for a rich medium
brown with golden tones, which is what I think today's Carmelites wear.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 00:09:29 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Egyptian Class
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:17:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

A while back we were talking about Egypt's costume history.   I mentioned
that I was trying to get accepted into a week long class for educators that
goes with the new exhibit on Egyptian artifacts at the Virginia Museum of
Fine Arts. My reason stated for taking the class was to create an Egyptian
costume resource website on our Online Library.  I got my letter of
acceptance yesterday!!!  I am so excited, I can't wait until July!!! Walk
like an Egyptian....

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 02:53:14 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

This has to be fairly brief, its early I need to get the kids to school &
me to work but....

>First of all, I apologize for the original statement.  It seems I was not
clear enough.  I thought when I was saying "The Church had little effect on
actual fashion, " I was referring to the evolution of everyday wear, and
the
Church's inability to regulate it.

I agree with the lack of direct influence

>  For instance, I've read accounts of
clergy attacking everything from skirts which drag the ground to colored
veils to revealing surcotes to pointy-toed shoes.  Did people stop wearing
these things because someone in the Church complained?  No. Various clergy
often complained about brightly-colored fabrics, and the vanity and pride
exhibited by those who wore them.  Did people stop wearing them as a
result?

Never said they did :)

>Yes and no.  First, through most of the early Middle Ages and even into
the
later Middle Ages, marriage, although recognized as a sacrament of the
Church in the twelfth century, was as much, or more, a cultural phenomenom.
Most marriages did not happen in churches (one traditional place in England
was "at the church door"--the church fulfilled the function of a city hall
in many parishes.  There was a requirement for witnesses, but not even for
a
priest at first. )

See previous response to other posting please !

>Yes, there is Biblical precedent for women covering their hair after
marriage.  But that doesn't completely explain it.  Veils and headgear
clearly became items of fashion as well.  If they were purely religious in
function, you would expect little change over two millenia.

I'm not argueing ANYTHING had a purely religious function, but that a
religious (or any other )function can become a fashion. eg Docs are not
necessary for most peoples footwear, they are workboots, but became an item
of fashion.

>Have you read exactly what regulations the Church put on clothing for
secular people?  There were very, very few.

I KNOW, I never mentioned regulations, only influence.

>  For instance, I've yet to come
across a church writer of the Middle Ages castigating a married woman for
not covering her hair. 

Maybe there was never a case :)

> I've yet to come across strictures in canon law
about fashion or dress for anyone other than religious (priests, monks,
nuns).  Almost all of the complaints about fashion are made within the
context of moral treatises--usually by individual clergy (not bishops or
the
Pope)--about how society is going to rack and ruin, and here's some
examples
from the world of fashion to back them up.

Yes exactly. I'm not talking about rules. People listen to religious leader
, if they didn't the church wouldn't have survived as long as it has,'
would you let your daughter go out like that ?' will influence what the
person holding the purse strings lets that person wear.

I'm not suggesting in any way it was direct rules. Far more subtle than
that.


>The Rosary was a lay devotion.  Of course, the Church liked to encourage
lay
piety, but very quickly, the production of rosaries acquired very strong
secular overtones.  You don't need a rosary of precious stones, or with
tremendously-detailed carved beads which open to reveal a scene, to do the
devotion.  In fact, you don't need a rosary at all--it merely helps you
keep
count.  A string with knots in it works just as well.

Yes but it became something you wore a fashion accesory, fashion isn't
function.

>Wait a minute.  You're seriously claiming that the economic effects of the
Crusades had to do with "the Church"? 

Indirectly yes

> Did the Church require Crusaders to
bring back fabrics?  Yes, there's a very long string of cause-and-effect at
work, 

Yes cause and effect exactly what I'm getting at

>but claiming that the Church was responsible for changes in fashion
due to the Crusades is a mighty big stretch in logic.

It is a pretty continuous logical chain to me, the butterfly flaps his
wings etc..... Looking at the bigger picture and the small events yes
perfectly logical. I'm not talking black & white here.

>Almost every rule requiring Jews to wear distinctive clothing is a secular
one, which is why the requirements differ from place to place.  Did
religious beliefs about the Jews inspire this?  Yes, certainly.  Were they
promulgated by "the Church"?  For the most part, no.

The Church representing the difference in religion, yes. If there was no
church & everyone was Jewish for instance there would be no difference. So
by existing the Church influenced

>I guess my quibble is with use of the term "the Church." Again, I'm coming
from a specialist background (defending my dissertation on a topic
regarding
religious education this week), but "the Church" to me implies policy at a
high level.  I repeat, there was little or no policy at a high level
concerning secular clothing.

Once again I'm not talking about rules or policy only fashion influence

> Religion
underlay much of medieval society.  It's merely to point out that this
control was as often as not at the local level, and laypeople had a lot
more
influence in it than is commonly thought.  The mistake is confusing
medieval
religion with "the Church," when it's so much more than that, and so much
more complicated.

Far more complicated than rules & regulations which I never even mentioned
as an influence anyway. Medieval religion was a changing situation due the
the existance of the Church (christian) and its increasing influence on
daily life in all its forms including fashion.

>You misunderstand me vastly, and I apologize for being so obtuse in my
statements. 

'sallright ! :)

> I would heartily agree that RELIGION was a huge influence on
society at the time.  I would not say "the Church,"--at least in the case
of
fashion (politics is another matter altogether :-) because that implies
control on a level at which it did not exist.  When you change "the Church"
to "religion,"

To quibble I'm not talking religion in its many form, I'm talking of the
Christian Church religion specifically, therefore to me religion is
inaccurate as it is to far reaching.

> the statement becomes accurate, and you also allow for
laypeople to make modifications or changes to clothing or behavior because
of personal religious piety, not simply because someone else says they have
to.  

I NEVER EVER SAID ANYONE SAID THEY HAD TO DO ANYTHING !!!!!!

>You also allow for local variation. Do you see the difference?  It may
be semantics, and I may be nitpicking, I agree.  But the nature of lay
piety
is often very poorly understood, especially the fact that they were often
the ones who controlled the nature of their piety, not churchmen.

Exactly they did it because they wanted too, but they did it because they
felt it was a better way to show what they were how they believed, how
devoted they were , BUT they did many things because of something the
Church instigated be it the Crusades, church marriages or whatever. The
route cause was often (not always) based on the Church.

Mel

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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 02:53:17 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

I'm afraid I don't have time to address every point in the detail I might
like but to try & briefly do a few !

>Women covering their hair after marraige was something adopted from the
general culture, not something required _de novo_ by the Church.

Fashion is NEVER something that is required if that were so in my teenage
years in Britain scholl uniforms would have been the FASHION.

Fashion is a style of clothing adpoted at a certain time/place with various
influences.

> And one of
the problems the Church had for *many* centuries was trying to convince
people to be married by a priest. Marriage is and has been a primarily
civil
contract between the two parties (and their families).

Indeed, certainly in the lower stratas, but where a legitimate 'legal'
offspring was required such as in richer society it was pretty universal,
and fashion tends to filter down from the richer classes, you will note how
lower strata fashion always comes from selected upper strata fashion (even
now hence the off the peg interpretations of Haute coture etc) 

This is why in earlier times one can dress as a peasent in fashions several
years (even decades) out of date because clothing was literally handed down
& therefore fashions filtered down.

>Rosaries are one way to show one's piety; the styles of rosaries have
change
through the centuries. It is sometimes hard to tell if a string of beads is
a rosary or a bracelet or a necklace. In Europe after the Reformation,
rosaries could be used to make political statements as much as religious
ones. People in many cultures around the world use a string of beads to aid
recall or counting of prayers.

But they still make a religious one. and those that don't make another
statement eg it is not fashionable to wear a pentagram if you are a
Catholic

>While the crusades may have been originally inspired by religion, for many
of the participants they were opportunities for plunder of various sorts.
People brought back ideas (and actual items) for clothing because they
liked
them, not because the Church encouraged them.

I never said the church directly dictated or encoraged them in fact I said
the influence was subtle specifically.

>The "distinctive" clothing of Jews in many parts of Europe were decreed by
the civil, not religious, authorities

But it is a fashion trend, fashion once again is not dictated it tell you
and others where you are , in what group, how you think , act and so on.
That is the function of fashion.

.> Jews dressed pretty
much like their Christian neighbors. And in countries without decreed
distinctions, you would need to know some of the more subtle cultural clues
to tell Jews from Christians. So, while the *idea* of trying to make Jews
easy to tell from Christians may have originated with the Church, the
actual
decrees requiring some "difference" and defining it came from the civil
authorities.

Exactly fashion IS suble we probably miss alot take 6 people from different
walks of life in jeans, we with our 20th C eye can tell a builder from a
casual French chairman of the board, but could someone in 500 years do the
same ?

>One problem the Church had in trying to influence European clothing styles


But they tried which is a influence in itself, at school my uniform skirt
must fall on the ground when kneeling, long skirts came in our hems pushed
the limits down, short the limits went up. No uniform is more casual & mort
hemlines are pretty much the same.

>As you state, there are *many* influences on fashions, and, during its
period of greatest influence in Europe, the Roman Church may have had a
small influence on some people in this regard, but I would not assign it a
major role.

Who said great I said suble :)

Mel
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 06:32:48 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Mourning clothes are also not something which were stipulated by religion,
but by cultural tradition. 
 Look, for instance, at Catholic countries today.
I know that many Portuguese ladies (especially from rural areas) still
maintain the tradition of black clothes in widowhood.  Compare that to
France, 

Well some in rural France still do.

>or to the Catholic areas of Germany, where it's almost entirely
absent.  That tells me that mourning traditions are cultural, not
religious,
although they may indeed be linked to religion.

Cultural yes but indeed linked, the areas where it is strong also tend to
be more ardently religious.

>The same goes for traditions of honor.  Men in the U.S. normally take off
hats when the National Anthem is played, for instance, regardless of
religious beliefs, as a symbol of respect. 

It is also in many way a propigated reaction, as I understand it children
in schools in the US regularly play your national anthem &  pride in the
country is actually propigated in a positivly enforced way. It is here (UK)
but there is talk about 'citizanship' being introduced along the lines of
the US. Personally I do not agree with great pushes towards ANY one group,
I prefer to see our differences tolerated & celebrated rather that made
distince. But that is another subject :)

Anyway the point is the hats off is a State driven situation , becoming
cultural by habit/enforcment (in the nicest possible way I'm sure) in
schools.

> I believe the same premise
underlies the tradition of tipping one's hat to a lady. The practice
certainly may have started as a religious one, but now, it's gone far
beyond
that.

As have most fashions, which side a lady walks on(to leave the sword arm
free) . The difference in the way a coat buttons etc.

The root of the fashion , originally , it the thing that interests me, yes
they all become social, but the seed that starts them comes from a specific
source.



>Oh, I'm not disputing the idea of the Crusades as a medium for conveying
new
ideas--that's well documented in about every field from medicine to
fashion.
My quibble is with the idea that because the Crusades originally had a
religious motivation, you can credit "the Church" with all of these new
ideas.

I think we are at odds in degrees here, I mean as a tangible root base not
the ONLY inspiration.

>Surcotes are a possibility.  They may have been developed to keep the dust
off of armor in the Holy Lands and spread to civilian wear--first to men,
then to women.

And I believe, the sun overheating those inside.


>ummmm.....   In Britain, public schools wear uniforms because goverment
>education authority for a part of the country has established that - not
each

IN England
By public do you means State or what we call Public ie private ? (sorry it
is confusing !)

State schools now, cannot impose uniforms on children, but individual
school adopt a school uniform which is agreed to by the majority of parents
& children.

This tends to be Black/Grey/Navy trouser or shirt (from anywhere) shirt of
a colour (from anywhere) and a sweat shirt specific to the school with
emblem for specific school

ie a cheap but recognisable uniform.

Private schools , however tend to specify exact items of clothing such as,
skirt/trousers, shirts, jumpers, blazers, hats, overcoats, sports wear etc.
Usually from one shop only and usually way overpriced.

The two are quite different in regulations (and if the original poster left
here 15 years ago, have changed quite a lot since  then)

>require that girls wear a plaid skirt, white blouse, and red
vest/waistcoat, if that's not what's required on a national or regional
level?  Or would you qualify it by saying "All schools in East Anglia wear
such and such kinds of uniforms"?  That's what I'm getting at with not
using
"the Church", because precisely that kind of variation exists within it,
which may have a root in local culture.  Widows in Portugal don't wear
black
because the Church requires it;  they wear it because it's part of their
culture and a sign of respect.

I've written this a few times, but again -not once did I say the Church
required, laid rules down or any such thing. I am sorry if you don't
understand that, but really I never suggested that they enforced fashion or
even tried to, they mearly influenced it.

Mel
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From: teddy1 <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Ever After - Confession
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>

"Ever After" having skipped most of the cinemas in the UK (I only 
know of a few people who managed to see it at the Cinema) we rented 
it on video yesterday and i finally got st see it.

I enjoyed the film so much, I barely noticed the costumes (other than 
one point near the start where Cinders was putting on a dress without 
having a shift underneath)

The costumes, as far as I noticed, were pretty but the details just 
passed me by in the general enjoymnet of the film.

The best thing about it was that Drew Barrymore's English accent 
sounded so believable.  After so many American actors and actresses 
doing such a cringeworthy job in the past, that really astounded me.

Teddy
(who now has to find time to rent it again and look at the costumes - 
we'll probably buy it)
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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 10:21:27 1999
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From: "Frantz, Holly" <HFrantz@deepwater.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Ever After - Confession
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:26:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Frantz, Holly" <HFrantz@deepwater.com>

I think you'll find the costumes to be rather nice examples of early Italian
Ren.  There is nothing French about them.

Holly Frantz
Customer Support Center
Ph: 713-871-7620
Pg: 888-935-8052

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	teddy1 [SMTP:Teddy@mdx.ac.uk]
	Sent:	Monday, May 17, 1999 10:43 AM
	To:	h-costume-digest@indra.com
	Subject:	H-COST: Ever After - Confession


	-Poster: teddy1 <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>

	"Ever After" having skipped most of the cinemas in the UK (I only 
	know of a few people who managed to see it at the Cinema) we rented 
	it on video yesterday and i finally got st see it.

	I enjoyed the film so much, I barely noticed the costumes (other
than 
	one point near the start where Cinders was putting on a dress
without 
	having a shift underneath)

	The costumes, as far as I noticed, were pretty but the details just 
	passed me by in the general enjoymnet of the film.

	The best thing about it was that Drew Barrymore's English accent 
	sounded so believable.  After so many American actors and actresses 
	doing such a cringeworthy job in the past, that really astounded me.

	Teddy
	(who now has to find time to rent it again and look at the costumes
- 
	we'll probably buy it)
	 _________________________________________________________________
	 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
	 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 10:23:57 1999
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

I confess that I BOUGHT the film once it came to be available, I was one
of those people that stampeded the cinema once it came to the screen.  I
want to know how they made her wings...a few more viewings, and I may be
able to figure it out.

my next jaunt is to go to see Midsummer night's dream, which, by the way
comes HIGHLY recommended by many of my friends.  this is the FIRST play
I had the enjoyment of costuming, and it's what got me hooked.  I did
enjoy it SO !!  I've heard so much about this one I can't wait to see it
and had plans to see it this weekend past, but being new to the area, I
got the directions my housemate gave me to the theatre it was playing in
that was closest to the metro from here.  ::sigh::
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 10:38:21 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After - Confession
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Funny... here I am at work listening to the Ever After soundtrack and
thinking how wonderful the movie is... while the costuming may not be
accurate (all right... isn't)... I think this is one of those movies to just
ignore that as a "fault" of Hollywood, remember it's a Fairy Tale, and have
fun... great movie,

Sarah



"Ever After" having skipped most of the cinemas in the UK (I only
know of a few people who managed to see it at the Cinema) we rented
it on video yesterday and i finally got st see it.

I enjoyed the film so much, I barely noticed the costumes (other than
one point near the start where Cinders was putting on a dress without
having a shift underneath)

The costumes, as far as I noticed, were pretty but the details just
passed me by in the general enjoymnet of the film.

The best thing about it was that Drew Barrymore's English accent
sounded so believable.  After so many American actors and actresses
doing such a cringeworthy job in the past, that really astounded me.

Teddy
(who now has to find time to rent it again and look at the costumes -
we'll probably buy it)
_________________________________________________________________
To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


 _________________________________________________________________
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 11:51:48 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: MN Renaissance Festival Fire
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-Poster: "Doris J. Nash" <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 07:55 PM 5/14/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: CJ Brunette <cj@onsync.com>
>
>Hi- I have been off the H-Costume list for some time - too busy - so
>forgive me if this is redundant.
>A couple people asked me about the aid fund for uninsured crafters who lost
>their buildings in the arson fire. I don't have their addresses any more, &
>thought others might be interested. Here is the url for the Phoenix
>Project, you can also see some very good pictures before & after the fire:
>
>http://members.tripod.com/projectphoenix/
>
>No word on any arrests or police leads.
>
>--CarolJane in Minneapolis

Thank you CarolJane, even though I cried when I saw those photos.  I hope
their benefit goes like gangbusters this Sunday.  I'll definitely be sending
a contribution!
Doris
===============
Doris Nash    <djnash@iastate.edu>
515-294-8863
Costume Shop Supervisor, Iowa State University
"...with ruffs and cuffs, and farthingales and things."  
--Shakespeare, The Taming of the Shrew

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Subject: H-COST: fabric vs. trim
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Henk:

I couldn't agree more about your fabric comment. Clothing in authentic 
medieval cuts, made of plain-colored linen and wool, looks fabulous. So few 
of us today are familiar with these fabrics! They do look really smashing. If 
any new reenactor (whatever the group) of any pre-Tudor era asked for my 
advice, I'd tell him or her not to worry about trim, but to spend money on 
good fabric. You're sure to look good.

I am not convinced by the no-trim argument. And I don't think I explained 
myself well with the "pleats and ruffles" comment. I will try to compose a 
better explanation of what I was trying to say and post it later.

Gail
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From: Meagn Maguire 335-2467 <Meagn.Maguire@kp.org>
Subject: H-COST: 'Waisted Efforts' - Review, anyone?
To: /R=internet/R=indra.com/U=h-costume/FFN=h-costume/@mr.nw.kp.org
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-Poster: Meagn Maguire 335-2467 <Meagn.Maguire@kp.org>

Dear costuming friends,

Has anyone here read _Waisted Efforts_ by Robert Doyle?  This book is regularly
advertised in _Threads_ (usually in the back, small but nice display ad).  I've
been unable to find it locally, and have become very curious about it, nearly
curious enough to spend the nearly $40US and send off across the continent for
it.  Although my primary interest is in women's clothing of the third quarter of
the 16th Century, I also have a sincere interest in turn of the century
clothing.  

However - I know I don't want to spend what is for me half a day's wages for
naught.  (Especially if it's nothing but the usual derivative nonsense refracted
through 19th C porn.)  Before I splurge, could someone here give me a
recommendation?  Is it worth enduring the uncertainties of Canada Post?  

So, my question is, if you have read or own this book, would you recommend it?  

Many, many thanks,

Meagn 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 14:30:33 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

This thread seems to be getting bogged down in bickering, but just to add my two penn'orth - 
Elysant says that in her part of Wales women had to cover their heads in Anglican churches until about 15 years ago. Here in Derbyshire the convention hasn't been strictly observed for at least 30-40 years, during which time hat-wearing has become far less common among both sexes anyway. My mother was commenting recently that small boys who wear baseball caps don't know to take them off in church, probably because so few men wear hats at all that taking them off on entering church isn't a commonly observed action.
As a teenager in the 60s I was told that I would have to cover my head to go into a Catholic church in Europe, but when I visited France I found that this wasn't the case, so it looks as though the trend is fairly widespread.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>


Now, I know many churches here in the New England area where it is common
practice for the women to cover their heads in church... it is considered
"sacreligeous" and disrespectful for them not to.  This is a minority,
obviously, but it does still exist...

Sarah



-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

This thread seems to be getting bogged down in bickering, but just to add my
two penn'orth -
Elysant says that in her part of Wales women had to cover their heads in
Anglican churches until about 15 years ago. Here in Derbyshire the
convention hasn't been strictly observed for at least 30-40 years, during
which time hat-wearing has become far less common among both sexes anyway.
My mother was commenting recently that small boys who wear baseball caps
don't know to take them off in church, probably because so few men wear hats
at all that taking them off on entering church isn't a commonly observed
action.
As a teenager in the 60s I was told that I would have to cover my head to go
into a Catholic church in Europe, but when I visited France I found that
this wasn't the case, so it looks as though the trend is fairly widespread.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 14:57:10 1999
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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

Hello, 

Angela Gottfred wrote:

>I am researching the dress of Canadian voyageurs c. 1774-1821. One of the 
>items of clothing that shows up on fur trade inventory lists is 'jockey 
>caps', but I have nothing more than a guess as to what these caps looked 
>like (i.e. like modern jockey's caps, which are shaped like baseball caps). 
>On the web, I've found statements that Rogers Rangers wore jockey caps, but 
>no descriptions of them. One web site noted that they were originally cut 
>down from tricorns. 

I am familiar with jockey caps from three sources, Rogers Rangers and other 
British Light Infantry units of the French and Indian War and the Revolution; 
hunting costume of 17th century to present day and from American fur trade. 
They are all connected, of course. The jockey cap originated, I believe, as 
sporting costume, used by jockeys, horse trainers, etc. As someone mentioned, 
George Stubbs' paintings are a great source for images of this sort of hat. 
Since military costume has strong ties to sporting costume, it is not 
surprising that the Light Infantry, looking for practical alternatives to 
round hats (which can get in the way while shooting) and tricorns, which can 
also be inconvient in the forest and on campaign, adopted the jockey cap 
(along with Scottish blue bonnets and round hats cocked up on one side) as 
alternatives. There is a picture of Robert Rogers showing him in a jockey cap 
[this image is available at www/digitalhistory.org/rogers.html]. In this case, 
he wears it with the peak pushed up and the whole hat decorated. Tricorns, as 
has been mentioned by others, could also be cut down to form jockey caps, 
though in England, the tendency was to make them of stiffened leather to serve 
as a kind of crash helmet. This, then, evolved into the "tarleton" style of 
helmet with its bearskin crest. I am not surprised that the caps found their 
way into Hudson's Bay Company dress, though I wasn't terribly familiar with 
it. However, there are paintings done of trappers and Native Americans out 
west in the 1840s still wearing jockey caps [see Father Nicholas Point 
"Wilderness Kingdom: Indian Life in the Rocky Mountains, 1840-1847. New York, 
1967]. These are eyewitness paintings of Plains and Plateau Indians who were 
in contact with both the Hudson's Bay Company and the American Fur Company. It 
seems as if it was a very popular style among American Fur Trade employees as 
well.

For 18th century caps, you could just cut down a felt hat, but study those 
hunting pictures as well. G. Gedney Godwin sells leather jockey caps for 
conversion into tarleton helmets. Modern "dressage hats" might also work - 
they are of black velvet, but the shape isn't exactly right. Riding helmets 
have hard plastic liners which make them very unsuitable. I hope this helps 
some.

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

Let's meet in the middle and stop what seems more and more to be a simple
misunderstanding.
Religion (primarily Catholic Christianity in the medieval West) was clearly
an influence in medieval society, and since clothing is a reflection of that
society, it is true that it had an influence on clothing.  How direct an
influence that was is what varies, and culture is inextricably
intertwined--so much so that it's often difficult to see where one stops and
the other begins.  A comparison might be made today about Islamic women's
dress.  You may gather together ten Muslim women from a variety of cultures
and find that there is a huge variety in dress--from the
completely-envelloping black robes and face-hiding veils of some cultures to
the simple head scarf of others, to those who wear no distinctive clothing
at all.  Now, this is clearly tied to the Islamic call for "modest dress"
for women, but what that "modest dress" *is* is clearly dependant on
culture.

Susan



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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

Sarah is right... Yes, Ever After has some major costume faults, but it's not
History, its Fantasy.  Which give them lots of room to work in.  Besides they
got one thing right.  The scene where she see the Prince coming and our hero
rushes home to change.  The next time you see her she has changed clothes.  And
just around the corner is the two servants on the ground panting surrounded by
her clothes.  I've done enough quick changes back stage, to know that it can be
done, but it will wear you out.

Stephen Bergdahl

Sarah Toney wrote:

> -Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>
> Funny... here I am at work listening to the Ever After soundtrack and
> thinking how wonderful the movie is... while the costuming may not be
> accurate (all right... isn't)... I think this is one of those movies to just
> ignore that as a "fault" of Hollywood, remember it's a Fairy Tale, and have
> fun... great movie,
>
> Sarah
>

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From: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Waisted Efforts' - Review, anyone?
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-Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>


> -Poster: Meagn Maguire 335-2467
> <Meagn.Maguire@kp.org>

> So, my question is, if you have read or own this
> book, would you recommend it?  

I would also appreciate hearing what anyone thinks
about this book!  I've been meaning to order it, but
just haven't gotten around to it yet (money-wise)...

Margretta
===

Margretta de Vries

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Subject: H-COST: Waisted Efforts
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

OK, here's my review, off the top of my head...

If you are going to be making corsets, the book will be very helpful.

If you are an English teacher or a fan of good writing, reading it will be
very annoying. The poor author should have had an editor. . .

It really is full of information, none of it titillating.

Kim


BTW, saw Midsummer Night's Dream last night, and enjoyed it very much. It's
well done and funny! Trying to understand Shakespeare's language is hard
work, so I couldn't give the costumes enough attention. Think I'll have to
see it again.
Kim
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Steeled for Style: Hoop Skirts of the Civil War Era 
Through January 30, 2000

Included in this exhibition will be hoops suspended to show their shapes and
constructions, partially dressed mannequins displaying the required
layers of
underwear, fully dressed mannequins, accessories of the era, and reproductions
of advertisements, cartoons, and other topical materials.

http://pma.libertynet.org/exhibitions/installations/hoopskirts.shtml

--
 Our only recourse is to fall back on the concept of personal
responsibility. Each of us, as information passes through our  hands,
has the opportunity to jump out of the chain of  unaccountability and
check the facts ourselves – in effect, to become a source and be held
accountable.     
--David Emery, on rampant misinformation and hoaxes (on the internet,
but applies universally)
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-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>


My sister has bought a wedding dress that was, for lack of a better term,
a floor sample.  It is slightly shop-worn, mostly a few lost beads and
wrinkles.  How should she go about pressing the dress, especially the
cathedral-length train? The fabric is a silk, almost a chanton, but the
sheen isn't quite right. 

    Parsla
	There's not a mome wrath born that can outgrabe me. 
*****************************************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 21:15:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:19:16 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Polish gowns
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

According to the catalog from the exhibit"Laqnd of the Winged Horsemen: Art 
in Poland1572-1764" a zupan (pronounced "zhupan") is a "man's long garment 
worn with or without a "kontusz" (outer garment of eastern origin, worn over 
a zupoan) over it." 

A zupan is  a long, long-sleeved (tight sleeves), high necked robe. I was 
usually made of costly, highly decorative silk fabric, which was used also 
for lining the sleeves and the of the kontusz. The back of th zupan, hidden 
under the outer garment, was made of linen or cotton for economy. The kontusz 
and zupan formed traditional Polish attire from the end of the 17th to the 
early 19th century...

The zupan shown (p. 174 of the catalog, late 18th century)  is close-fitting 
to the waist and the skirts of teh lower part overlap slightly. It fastens to 
the neck with small passamenterie buttons. A low standup collar adjusts at 
the back. the linen back is laced. Long fitted sleeves with turn-back cuffs 
fasten by hooks & eyes. There are pockets in the side seams. The garment is 
lined with fustian down to the waist.

The description above is taken from the catalog. The whole outfit is oriental 
looking (think Renaissance Ottoman Empire), a long robe with a wide silk 
sash. 

Hope this helps. There weren't any illustrations of medieval Polish women's 
outfits. Sorry.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 21:47:33 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:52:47 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sort of OT, yellowed silk?
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I used Rit color remover in a pot on the stove to de-yellow a silk blouse and 
it worked like a charm.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 21:47:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:51:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: fabric paints
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I understand that fabric during the Renaissance was block printed or stamped 
with repeating patterns. I have green velvet that I want to stamp with a gold 
design, so I want to find some one who will carve me a stamp so I can try it 
out. I wish I could find my notes on printed fabric, A woman of my 
acquaintance did extensive research on the topic & presented a paper on it 
many years ago.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 21:47:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:50:30 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Dover Dressmaking Book
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

I have just received a copy of *Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques*
which is a re-issue by Dover of Butterick's *Dressmaking Up to Date* 1905.
The Butterick manuals, and there are a number of them up into the 20s, are
good solid information on dressmaking and sewing techniques.  They are
growing scarcer as the years go by and I can remember selling dozens of them
over the years to dedicated costumers - and with good reason.  They are
certainly worth having if you are making period costumes.
This present volume would be better called *Late Victorian* or Late
Victorian and Edwardian*.  If you hope to find information on the whole
range of Victorian fashions/costumes then you are bound to be disappointed. 
BUT the sewing techniques, if used wisely, could serve for many eras.  It is
when you get into construction of specialized fashions/garments that you
have to remember that the book was written for a specific era and basically
serves that era.
I found the introduction simplistic and not really necessary as it is not
well resarched.  But it is in no way necessary to the use of the book.
At $10.95 the appearance of this book will be a delight to many costumers.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 17 21:56:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:01:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I think she meant that clergy COMPLAINING about clothing had no effect on 
fashion, not that the CHURCH had no effect on clothing.

Priests complained from the pulpit about women wearing cosmetics, for 
instance, but it certainly didn't stop women from wearing makeup.

Just a clarification...

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 01:18:48 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fabric paints
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:51 PM 05/17/1999 EDT, Appin1@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: Appin1@aol.com
>
>I understand that fabric during the Renaissance was block printed or stamped 
>with repeating patterns. I have green velvet that I want to stamp with a gold 
>design, so I want to find some one who will carve me a stamp so I can try it 
>out. I wish I could find my notes on printed fabric, A woman of my 
>acquaintance did extensive research on the topic & presented a paper on it 
>many years ago.
>
>Kathleen Norvell

IIRC, the "printing" of fabrics in 16th century Europe was not done with
paints or dyes. It was essentially a hot-stamping technique on velvet (and
possibly satin?). The resulting patterns were, on velvet, similar to cut
velvets with high and low areas in the pile. There is some information on
this (and pictures, I think) in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 01:36:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 02:43:15 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Church inspired fashion
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>This thread seems to be getting bogged down in bickering

I'm sorry if anyone thought I was bickering, I was discussing not
bickering. Nothing personal in it at all just a differing point of view,
which is what I find interesting & enlightening about conversations . I
found the other posters view points interesting not confrontational.

On hat wearing & other observance of church related customs, I think you'd
find if you plotted hat wearing in church in comparisson with times
attended church you would see both trends decrease together in general, I
know most English churches play to empty houses these days very unlike in
my childhood a mear 25-30 years ago.

Covering you head, shoulders legs etc WAS very common in European catholic
countries, in it increased tourism and ignorance of these customs which has
led to a decrease in the observance. Certainly in Italy & Greece, it would
be frowned upon, I would respect this exactly the same as I respect not
going into a Jain temple during menstuation, but not everyone does respect
it (or perhaps they are simply ignorant of it with the great decrease
religion now has in our daily lives)

Similarly the church related customs have decreased, (often ones with
earlier roots) and in England many tradition have sadly died out as church
influence has decreased. France is still hanging on more but notably
decreasing, further behind are countiries like Spain, & Greece. Where the
church is more significant. 

However the modern catholic & high church traditions cannot really be
directly related to the medieval church, which had not yet suffered the
back lash of the reformation and so on. The medieval church can be seen in
many was to be far more tolerant as it seeked to include and absorb older,
pagan traditions into the fold, moulding them and interweaving them into
what became christian tradition.  The problems started when people wanted
to read the Bible & realised much of what they had believed to be the
teaching of that book were not. 

But this is getting pretty off topicso I conclusion I will say where the
church is a strong influence on society, it has a stronger influence on
clothing, generally in a suble form rather than as doctrines & I'll say no
more least folk think I'm bickering !

Mel

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 07:03:38 1999
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From: kat <kat@janrix.com>
To: "'Historic Costume list'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: books
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:04:04 -0400
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-Poster: kat <kat@janrix.com>

Found a book I went ahead and picked up for $9.00. It's entitled "English 
Costume: From Prehistoric Times to the end of the 18th Century." by George 
Clinch. First published in 1909, this is a 1975 re-print by EP Publishing 
Limited in Yorkshire.
This book includes Military costume, ecclesiastical costume, Robes of the 
orders of Chivalry, etc. Any one else ever run across this book? Comments?

This dust jacket lists other books by this publisher, including,
"English Folk Song and Dance" by Kidson & Neal;
Jewellery, by H. Clifford Smith;
The Story of Pantomime, by A.E. Wilson;
 A History of Tapestry,  W.G. Thomson;
The Brasses of England, by Herbert W. Macklin;
In Gipsy Tents, F.H. Groome

Kat Hargus
owner, Making Time
www.makingtime.com

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Church inspired fashion was Fancy to Plain C 13th C
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:16:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>I think she meant that clergy COMPLAINING about clothing had no effect on 
>fashion, not that the CHURCH had no effect on clothing.
>
>Priests complained from the pulpit about women wearing cosmetics, for 
>instance, but it certainly didn't stop women from wearing makeup.


Yep, that would be accurate..

Susan

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Ironing a wedding dress?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 10:11 PM 5/17/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
>
>
>My sister has bought a wedding dress that was, for lack of a better term,
>a floor sample.  It is slightly shop-worn, mostly a few lost beads and
>wrinkles.  How should she go about pressing the dress, especially the
>cathedral-length train? The fabric is a silk, almost a chanton, but the
>sheen isn't quite right. 
>
I would recommend taking it to a good cleaners and having it professionally
steam pressed.  This is a big chore.  

Wedding gowns are usually steamed, not ironed.  I used to do it for the
bridal salon I worked with, and for a full trained dress, I planned on it
taking two full hours to steam the dress, stuff it with tissue paper so it
kept its shape,  clip any threads,  and spot clean any small  marks.  

If you do try to press or steam it,   do the body of the dress first, then
hang it from a ceiling hook while you do the train.  Then spread the train
out on a sheet on the floor until wearing time.  Don't store  the dress with
the train looped up or bustled or it could stretch out of shape.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 10:52:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: books
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

I do not open attachments.
There is not message - just an attachment.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks

----------
>From: kat <kat@janrix.com>
>To: "'Historic Costume list'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: books
>Date: Tue, May 18, 1999, 5:04 AM
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 11:48:17 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sort of OT, yellowed silk?
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:59:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

Did you have to use hot water?  I have some blouses that
could use this, but they sere not handmade and thus not
pre-shrunk.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Appin1@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 10:53 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sort of OT, yellowed silk?



-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I used Rit color remover in a pot on the stove to de-yellow
a silk blouse and
it worked like a charm.

Kathleen Norvell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 12:28:50 1999
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From: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
To: "'h-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Late 18th/Early 19th Century Fabric Printing
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:33:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>


I have a question regarding Late 18th/Early 19th century fabric printing
techniques.

Would the entire fabric have been dyed a color, and *then* the print applied
over, or would an appropriate amount of white be left after the color was
applied where the print would then be applied?

Thanks,
-Jill
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 14:27:34 1999
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-Poster: koz@value.net

Does anybody know the effects on wool at high heat but no 
moisture?  Are there any ill effects?

Thank you in advance.

Michael Quan
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 14:43:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:51:53 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I read it when it first became available, but it's packed away so I'm
going from memory.  Basically, it's a study of corsets and their
manufacture, it's not pornographic, and it has corset patterns.  If that
falls within your sphere of interest, yes, it is a book you must have. 
I like it.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 15:15:02 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sorta OT: Appliques for a cloak
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:25:51 -0400
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

I have a question that isn't quite historical but you all would most likely
be the best ones to answer it.

I am making a cloak for a character who is a "mage".  I want to border the
entire thing in contrasting colored stars, moons, suns, etc.  Should I get a
material that won't fray on the edges (such as felt) and make them out of
that, or should I go for the same type of material as the cloak and hem the
edges?  I'm not sure which will look better.  Or, does anyone have any other
ideas?

Sarah, who really doesn't want to cut out 700 little stars. ;-)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 16:00:51 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:05:25 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sorta OT: Appliques for a cloak
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Sarah,

I do a great deal of theatrical costuming and have found a few ways around 
applique, although I do use that as well.  You can either cut the shapes and 
heat bond them with some of those wonderful iron activated sheets of adhesive 
(this would probably still require at least a zig zag stitch around the 
shapes, but it's nice to bond them on first anyway)  I just did this for 
flames on the interior of a cape to great effect; or if you'd like to try 
something different, you can use glue as paint and greeting card powders to 
make raised embellishments out of sparkly or matter powders.  This can be 
found at a Michael's here in the Bay Area, or at most craft stores.  I paint 
on a thin film of glue and then cover generously with powder.  Then shake off 
the powder and use the heat device for this powder to cook it to the fabric. 
It ends up looking like a cross between embroidery and applique and is very 
effective. Can't say either of these methods is not a "time" eater, but they 
are both pretty and effective.

If you're interested in either, e-mail me off list and I can give you brand 
names of the products I used for both effects.

angil
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 5/18/1999 13:27:06 Pacific Daylight Time, 
toneys@rentgrow.com writes:

<< I have a question that isn't quite historical but you all would most likely
 be the best ones to answer it.
 
 I am making a cloak for a character who is a "mage".  I want to border the
 entire thing in contrasting colored stars, moons, suns, etc.  Should I get a
 material that won't fray on the edges (such as felt) and make them out of
 that, or should I go for the same type of material as the cloak and hem the
 edges?  I'm not sure which will look better.  Or, does anyone have any other
 ideas?
 
 Sarah, who really doesn't want to cut out 700 little stars. ;-) >>
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gifted Student
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:48:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

I am really going to open up a can of worms, but I would really like your
advice.  I teach at a middle school and was asked by the Art teacher to
review a "gifted" student's portfolio.  Gifted meaning she is attending a
special section of our school for children with very high I.Q.'s.
(Personally I believe we all have gifts.)  The reason I was asked to review
her portfolio is because the entire portfolio is costume illustrations.

The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.

I reviewed the portfolio and it is good for raw talent and her age.  She
REALLY loves making the renderings.  She said she hurries up and finishes
her "gifted" classwork to where she can draw renderings in her spare time.
She sneaks and spends her allowance on Tom Tierney paper doll books.  She
said people think she is crazy because she buys paper doll books.  She uses
the doll bodies to trace then she draws her own costumes on them.

I discussed with her the difference between costume and fashion designers.
She said she wanted to be a costume designer.  I feel so bad for her, I know
the expectations some parents place on gifted kids.  Part of me wants to
hand her my Dover books and some good costume videos.  Now that she knows my
interest, I know she is going to be following me around.  I don't want her
parents  to think I am  the "EVIL MENTOR".

Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation?  Has anyone dealt with
people who think you are beneath them because of your costuming
profession/interest?  Would you go on and feed the young mind?  Did your
parents not like your costuming gifts?

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 05:05 PM 5/18/99 EDT, you wrote:
>  You can either cut the shapes and 
>heat bond them with some of those wonderful iron activated sheets of adhesive 
>(this would probably still require at least a zig zag stitch around the 
>shapes, but it's nice to bond them on first anyway) 

To avoid the zigzagging, use those squeeze bottles of fabric paint to seal
the edges of the appliques after you've fused them on.    You know, the
stuff grandmas use to make those awful sweatshirts with the preprinted
cutouts.  Some of the glitter ones are particularly pretty and can be very
dramatic,  I also like the metallic but not sparkly ones.  

Margo

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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT/ Gifted Student
To: penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Penny, 

Ideally, I think you need to make an effort to get at least one of her 
parents to recognize how important this is to her.  Otherwise, it's an uphill 
battle. If that fails, then I would say encourage her as much as you are 
able, within whatever restrictions they are placing on her time. It is more 
than gifted to discover what you are passionate about at a young age, and if 
she's happy, that has to be a huge consideration when deciding what is 
important for her to study. Parents should try not to force too many their 
own choices on their children.  My eldest daughter has known she wanted to be 
on the stage since she was very young, and I just let it take it's course, 
because I felt to discourage anything she really loved would be unfair to 
her. I still get the "but when will she get a real life" questions.  It's her 
life, and her choice, this youngster should be allowed to make time for her 
"dreams" while she studies the subject's that her parents feel best nurture 
her intellectual talents.  However, ultimately, her parents will be the ones 
who get to shape her choices.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
W. Shakespeare


In a message dated 5/18/1999 14:49:52 Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com writes:

<< Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation?  Has anyone dealt with
 people who think you are beneath them because of your costuming
 profession/interest?  Would you go on and feed the young mind?  Did your
 parents not like your costuming gifts?
 
 Later...Penny >>
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>

Greetings!

>The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
>renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.


Perhaps Dad doesn't realize that the field of costume history and design is
more than "making clothes."  He's probably thinking of his gifted child's
future as being that old-fashioned term, "seamstress."

Perhaps you (or someone) should have a chat with him and let him know that
"costume history" is studied at major universities and colleges around the
world, and can lead to graduate studies, advanced degrees, and university
positions--that's for those who don't end up costuming theatre productions
and movies.  There's an unfortunate tendency to denigrate the arts sometimes
as not requiring "as much brains" as the sciences, law, or business.  That's
bunk.


I was considered "gifted" as a child as well.  There was a subtle
undercurrent in school (not so much from my parents) that the science
classes and sometimes, a few of the advanced literature classes, were the
place for the "smart" kids to go, with art classes being the "easy" way.
(Home ec classes were at the bottom of the food chain, along with shop.)

Dad needs to know that his daughter's field of interest is populated by
intelligent, educated people.  He's probably never met a costume designer
(unless he's talked to you) before and has no idea of what they do, or the
amount of work and research behind it.  It sounds like he thinks of the
field as something akin to plumbing or car repair.

Susan




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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sorta OT: Appliques for a cloak
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:17:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>At 05:05 PM 5/18/99 EDT, you wrote:
>>  You can either cut the shapes and
>>heat bond them with some of those wonderful iron activated sheets of
adhesive
>>(this would probably still require at least a zig zag stitch around the
>>shapes, but it's nice to bond them on first anyway)
>
>To avoid the zigzagging, use those squeeze bottles of fabric paint to seal
>the edges of the appliques after you've fused them on.

A word of advice:  Heat n' Bond comes in two strengths--regular and lite.
If you don't plan to stitch them down, the regular is what you want, but if
you *do* plan to zigzag around the cutouts, use the lite, because the
regular can gum up your needle.

Susan

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:22:43 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
>
>Greetings!
>
>>The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
>>renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.
>
>
>Perhaps Dad doesn't realize that the field of costume history and design is
>more than "making clothes."  He's probably thinking of his gifted child's
>future as being that old-fashioned term, "seamstress."
>
>Perhaps you (or someone) should have a chat with him and let him know that
>"costume history" is studied at major universities and colleges around the
>world, and can lead to graduate studies, advanced degrees, and university
>positions--that's for those who don't end up costuming theatre productions
>and movies.  There's an unfortunate tendency to denigrate the arts sometimes
>as not requiring "as much brains" as the sciences, law, or business.  That's
>bunk.
>
>
>I was considered "gifted" as a child as well.  There was a subtle
>undercurrent in school (not so much from my parents) that the science
>classes and sometimes, a few of the advanced literature classes, were the
>place for the "smart" kids to go, with art classes being the "easy" way.
>(Home ec classes were at the bottom of the food chain, along with shop.)
>
>Dad needs to know that his daughter's field of interest is populated by
>intelligent, educated people.  He's probably never met a costume designer
>(unless he's talked to you) before and has no idea of what they do, or the
>amount of work and research behind it.  It sounds like he thinks of the
>field as something akin to plumbing or car repair.
>
>Susan
>
Yes, what Susan said.  Also, think of all the highly respected people
working in museums throughout the world with "costume history" degrees.
And think of how well-respected Janet Arnold was, and will be, for years to
come.  Whether she's designing stage costume or studying historical
costume, it seems to be her calling.  One wonders if Dad has ever looked at
her portfolio.

I too was a "gifted and talented" child.  Although my artist father never
denegrated art or music classes - they improve the imagination - typing,
sewing and drama classes were not looked on as favorable optional classes
for someone in this group.  My mom sewed many of our clothes so she
supported needlearts, luckily.
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation? >>

In order to deal directly with the father's misguided concerns, emphasize
the historic aspects of her work, and encourage her to study *history* of
dress (and fashion, if she's so inclined.) Encourage her to read, not just
"costume" books but also those that deal with other aspects of material
culture, manners, etc. Also encourage her to read and study art history in
all of its various aspect. Challenge her intellectually, artistically, any
way you can.

If it's history, I hardly think her father would think it "beneath her"
unless he's a real troglodyte.



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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I am posting this here with permission and if you are on the fantasy costume
lists if you have not seen it there please forward it.

I for one will NOT boycott the movie over this decision.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Apollinaire Fraser (Withdrawn to protect the guy, he is only an usher)
To: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 6:13 PM
Subject: star wars


mrs. Havas,

i am sorry to report that my theater will not alow you dress up and
entertain the patrons for the price of the movie.  i am sorry as Scott, my
stepdad,  told me what you do and have already done for this movie.  as for
your idea of boycotting the movie-- good luck.  it is a very excellent
movie.  if you have any other question for the theater their number is
(972) - 473 - 2289.  ask for a Mr. Porter or a Mrs. Offerdal. ( i think that
is how you spell it, i am not sure.)

sorry,

Apollinaire



-----Original Message-----
From: Teresa Patterson <LadyPegasus@compuserve.com>
Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 12:26 AM
Subject: Lucasfilms too big for it's own viewers?


:
:
:-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
:
:From: INTERNET:Heropa@aol.com, INTERNET:Heropa@aol.com
:
: To any and all concerned with Movies,
: At 7:30 on Thursday the 13th 1999, We were informed that theaters
:showing Star Wars Episode 1 are not to make any deals with ANYBODY that
:entails free viewing. Fine, I can understand that. Business is business.
:ALL THEATERS WERE ALSO INFORMED NOT TO HAVE INVITED COSTUMED GUESTS STAYING
:IN THEIR LOBBIES.
:LUCAS CAN GO SUCK ON AN EWOK! He's telling managers how to run their shops
:and I find that not only offensive but highly ungrateful to the fans of
Star
:Wars. Worse still, they have waited for the 13th to announce this with the
:movie premiering on the 19th. My roommates and I were planning to view the
:show in Indianapolis as guests of a manager. After being in costumes for
the
:entire day we would be treated to the employee viewing after closing. These
:plans started over 2 months ago and I am the only one that does NOT have a
:nearly completed costume (palace guard). I have the vinyl, but not the
:velour. The Darth Maul costume only needs the horns finished, the belt, and
:the light sabre touched up. The Queen Amadala costume is Excellent and
:COMPLETE. In our cases, this isn't some schlocky, bundle of toys and
fabric,
:flaky, fan-boy job I'm talking about either. We are working towards doing
:props and costuming on the professional level. The Maul costume has real
:dental acrylic teeth, a hand pleated cowl, the pants and shirt surged from
:fabric. Not modified but created!
: But what thanks do people willing to give the highest form of
:flattery get? A lot less from Star Wars than Star Trek, that's for sure!
:That's right! I said STAR TREK! Take note George Lucas, and what ever
:brainless add exec came up with this sad attempt to rig beating Titanic's
:opening purse. (something not needed) If Lucas wants his universe to be the
:year to year draw he should learn from the original, fan backed, direct
:competitor.  As they say, "Do what the successful do." Don't insult your
:customers.
: There's the standard reply/excuse of being "fair to the ones in
:line". They're in line to be FIRST, or in the first day. We want to be an
:attraction to make the theater that brings us to them a better memory to
it's
:patrons. Those patrons are more likely to prefer that theater in the
future,
:and we get paid with a movie. Usually after closing. Where's the big loss
in
:that?
:WHAT CAN BE DONE ABOUT THE "NO DEALS" DECREE?
: I petition the full total of theater managers to ignore it
:completely. It's your shop and you, at the very least, know how to show
some
:appreciation to your customers by giving them more than just long lines and
a
:flick that might even suck. I call out to the theater COMPANIES (Sony,
:Karasotes, etc.) to make official reversals. Order your managers to do
their
:best to make waiting for a ticket entertaining. There are times when the
way
:to sell a show goes against the desires of the makers of the movie, and
this
:is it.
: The OTHER OPTION,     BOYCOTT!
:IF YOU CAN LIVE WITHOUT THE PHANTOM MENACE, DO SO!
:IF YOU MUST SEE THIS THE PHANTOM MENACE, WAIT A MONTH!
:IF YOU CAN'T WAIT A MONTH, BE SURE TO ONLY SEE IT ONE TIME AS A PAYING
:THEATER GOER.
: I wonder what option George Lucas would prefer?
: Thanx4Being
: R. P. Hubbard
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 18:38:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:46:19 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: gifted student
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Here's my 2 cents on the subject--

As a parent of a 14 year old, I am happy whenever he shows an intense
interest in ANYTHING. 

If finding time for such an interest means your little friend gets her
school work done first, how can her dad complain?

Also, I would be very surprised if this girl's interest actually leads her
to study costume design in college, or end up working in costume design. It
may happen, but intense interest at her age is no great predicter of the
future.

It's better than being fascinated by guns and bombs or drugs and sex.

kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 19:45:38 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 18 May 1999, J,K,S&A Baird wrote:

> 
> Also, I would be very surprised if this girl's interest actually leads her
> to study costume design in college, or end up working in costume design. It
> may happen, but intense interest at her age is no great predicter of the
> future.
> 
Oh, I don't know about that. I went through plenty of phases from when I
was about 8 of being sure I was going to do x (archaeologist, fashion
designer, restranteur, actor), but I'm still pretty fixed on one of the
\things I was sure of when I was 14. Of course, I also changed my mind
about what course I was doing after my first year in university :-)
I think I pretty much agree with what everyone else has said so far though.
Sometimes I feel there's a pressure, if you're very intelligent to somehow
'contribute', to do something significant, but it's often overlooked that
the arts enrich people's lives as much as any important discovery. After
all, would we prefer that Leonardo (da Vinci, not di Caprio :-)) 's father
had pushed him into aeronautical engineering, or left him to paint 
the\Mona Lisa? 
> 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 19:56:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:58:28 -0400
From: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
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Subject: H-COST: NJ Dry Cleaners
References: <37420AD5.79108523@gti.net>
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-Poster: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>

> Hi!
>
> I need some dry cleaner references...Does anyone know of a dry cleaner
> in the NY/NJ area with *experienced* cleaning vintage & antique clothes?
>
> I am in Morristown, NJ.
>
> Please help if you know of anyone!
> Thanks in advance,
> Lisa Rand

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Polish gowns
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:38:32 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

Is there a place in the catalog where I can order it?  I missed the exhibit,
but would very much like to order a copy of the catalog.  Thanks for the
info you sent.

-----Original Message-----
From: Appin1@aol.com <Appin1@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Polish gowns


>
>-Poster: Appin1@aol.com
>
>According to the catalog from the exhibit"Laqnd of the Winged Horsemen: Art
>in Poland1572-1764" a zupan (pronounced "zhupan") is a "man's long garment
>worn with or without a "kontusz" (outer garment of eastern origin, worn
over
>a zupoan) over it."
>
>A zupan is  a long, long-sleeved (tight sleeves), high necked robe. I was
>usually made of costly, highly decorative silk fabric, which was used also
>for lining the sleeves and the of the kontusz. The back of th zupan, hidden
>under the outer garment, was made of linen or cotton for economy. The
kontusz
>and zupan formed traditional Polish attire from the end of the 17th to the
>early 19th century...
>
>The zupan shown (p. 174 of the catalog, late 18th century)  is
close-fitting
>to the waist and the skirts of teh lower part overlap slightly. It fastens
to
>the neck with small passamenterie buttons. A low standup collar adjusts at
>the back. the linen back is laced. Long fitted sleeves with turn-back cuffs
>fasten by hooks & eyes. There are pockets in the side seams. The garment is
>lined with fustian down to the waist.
>
>The description above is taken from the catalog. The whole outfit is
oriental
>looking (think Renaissance Ottoman Empire), a long robe with a wide silk
>sash.
>
>Hope this helps. There weren't any illustrations of medieval Polish women's
>outfits. Sorry.
>
>Kathleen Norvell
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 18 20:58:02 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 12:36 PM 05/18/1999 -0700, koz@value.net wrote:
>
>-Poster: koz@value.net
>
>Does anybody know the effects on wool at high heat but no 
>moisture?  Are there any ill effects?
>
>Thank you in advance.
>
>Michael Quan

As long as the wool is dry, the high heat of a dryer will not do any harm.
In fact, it's a good way to kill off any eggs from moths and other such
creatures who eat wool. Just be certain that the fabric is pure wool.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:08:47 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sorta OT: Appliques for a cloak
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 04:25 PM 5/18/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>I am making a cloak for a character who is a "mage".  I want to border the
>entire thing in contrasting colored stars, moons, suns, etc.  Should I get a
>material that won't fray on the edges (such as felt) and make them out of
>that, or should I go for the same type of material as the cloak and hem the
>edges?  
       Sarah--I think I'd make the cloak of wool and felt it as much as
possible.  Then cut out the shapes of the starts/moons/suns/&c. in the
borders of the wool.  Underneath that, sew your contrast fabric.  I would
probably stick with wool and again felt it just to keep the weight/&c.
equal.  You could stitch around each if you really wanted to, but from all
I've read, you shouldn't need to.  I'm sure there are others here who can
critique what I've said...and I hope you will, Ladies. I'd like to know
what you think.

>Sarah, who really doesn't want to cut out 700 little stars. ;-)
       Good luck!  Carol
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:43:59 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

A woman I knew who did a LOT of appliqués would use iron-on stuff and
then zig-zag the edges with a very tight stitch.  Personally, I'd
consider paint.  I made a lovely set of matching garb for my family
(cotehardies for myself & my husband and a loose gown for our infant
daughter) in white and then used stencils to put holly leaves and
berries around the bottom hem.  They were a big hit.

Kat
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From: "Diane Perry (Melangell)" <melangell@earthlink.net>
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:02:52 +0000
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-Poster: "Diane Perry (Melangell)" <melangell@earthlink.net>

> 
> Henk said,
> >I don't know if you people out there ever get a chance to see people
> >dressed up in good woollen and linen replica's of late 12th to early 14th c
> >costume, but if you have or will, you'll be impressed by the simple
> >elegance of this kind of dress, even for the lower classes.
> 
> 
I wear an early 12th century "Norman" dress with the long sleeves and 
piles of material in the skirt.  Always get compliments.  I have one 
out of silk and two out of wool.  Have made them out of cotten before 
and they not only don't look right, but they don't fit correctly.  
Sometimes, you need the stretch of the wool or silk to fit correctly.

> I've just finished such a dress.  It's a darkish green woolen material, with
> a gored construction (both front and side gores).  I sewed the whole thing
> by hand, and I was really trying to duplicate that loose upper-sleeved,
> tight lower sleeved look of the thirteenth century (which I did via handsewn
> eyelets, which are laced with fingerloop-braided cord, from about an inch
> below the elbow down).  Round neck, finished a la Museum of London (with a
> piece of ribbon--I used twill tape, since I had no silk ribbon) sewn down
> over the folded edge on the inside.  No trim at all. It'll be worn with my
> existing handsewn linen smock.  I'm extremely happy with the way it hangs,
> and I think I've finally got this particular look "right." It's probably the
> most authentic dress I've ever made, and it makes me want to go out and make
> *more*!
> 
> Susan Carroll-Clark


It sounds beautiful.  I am really proud of the dress that I hand 
sewed.  It makes you really take pride in your accomplishments.  My 
only complaint is that SCA judges always slam my clothing because 
they think that it should be heavily embellished (it does look very 
unadorned next to an Elizabethian, but looks really kick butt in the 
drape and quantity of material).

Melangell
 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 00:10:31 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Midsummer Costume Review
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 01:18:25 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

I have opened up a new section to my website called Costume Critique.  I get
to go to the movies as many times as I want for free, so I'll take advantage
of it.  The first film on the site is "A Midsummer Night's Dream",
http://www.costumegallery.com/Critiques/MND.htm  I am open to adding costume
critiques from people in speciality areas.  I would love to have someone to
critique the mini-series, "Joan of Arc" that specializes in this time
period.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 01:08:50 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

I was in Jo-Ann's and came several bolts whose fiber content was listed
as "TENCEL".  So, being the curious sort, I searched the web to find out
what it was.

According to their web page (http://www.tencel.com):  Lyocell is the FTC
approved generic name for solvent spun cellulose. Acordis' brand name
for this product is TENCEL®. TENCEL is produced from the natural
cellulose in wood pulp using a solvent spinning technique. Virtually all
of the solvent is recycled during the process.

Has anyone used this fabric?  I can't recall now how if felt (I was
searching for something specific and that wasn't it), but it was nice
enough that I bothered to checked the tag.  Not knowing what it was I
didn't get any.

--Charlene

--
The meek shall inherit the earth, but not the mineral rights.  -- J.
Paul Getty


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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Sarah wrote:

> I am making a cloak for a character who is a "mage".  I want to
> border the entire thing in contrasting colored stars, moons, suns,
> etc.  Should I get a material that won't fray on the edges (such
> as felt) and make them out of that, or should I go for the same
> type of material as the cloak and hem the edges?  I'm not sure
> which will look better.  Or, does anyone have any other ideas?
>
> Sarah, who really doesn't want to cut out 700 little stars. ;-)

It would seem that you have two options: cut and paste/sew or paint/print. 
You could do the whole job rather quickly by making a few stencils or stamps
and painting/printing, but it depends on the look you are going for.

I've made iron-on appliqués with the fusible web you can buy at the
fabric/craft stores.  I'd recommend that you match the weight of the fabrics. 
When I tried it, I used a tightly woven cotton print and I didn't need to do
any stitching over the edge to secure the appliqués.  I'm sure the results
would very somewhat with the type of fabric.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 06:15:22 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Gifted Student
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:28:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

Well, I'm in my late 40's and my parents think my historic
costume research is quite offbeat.  They refer to it as
"clothes," while I think of it as "material culture."  It
really doesn't measure up in their eyes.

When I was in middle school I made doll clothes constantly.
My mother ignored it, but my father, the engineer, liked the
creativity.  He liked the ways I had found of gluing clothes
together instead of stitching in some areas instead of
sewing. Looking at these clothes today, I am tickled to see
the same lines of Jackie Kennedy's gowns come through.  That
was the period I was working in.

Later I became an architect.  It was more acceptable to my
parents.  But they made me go to "real" college first.

In my generation, I think parents looked at art school as a
place where girls wore sandals and got laid by predatory
men. I've heard this over and over from other parents of my
generation and beyond.  They wanted the artistic skills
channeled into hobbies, Martha Stewart type of home
activities, etc., and their girls to pursue more acceptable
work and life styles.

I've since moved on to another career, more remote from
design, but most people say my real gift is in certain types
of paper and plastic sculpture, but it gets very little
exposure.  People like it immensely, but won't buy it.  But
it keeps things fun with family and friends.

Remind the parents that the design skills transcend media,
that an artistic eye is a critical component of success in
many more traditional careers, and encourage you student not
to neglect her other pursuits.  I think everyone need a
little magic in their lives to keep going, and it sounds
like this is hers.  Everything else she is doing may go a
little more easily if you let this ability live and thrive
in her.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 5:48 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: H-COST: Gifted Student



-Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

I am really going to open up a can of worms, but I would
really like your
advice.  I teach at a middle school and was asked by the Art
teacher to
review a "gifted" student's portfolio.  Gifted meaning she
is attending a
special section of our school for children with very high
I.Q.'s.
(Personally I believe we all have gifts.)  The reason I was
asked to review
her portfolio is because the entire portfolio is costume
illustrations.

The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the
costume
renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.

I reviewed the portfolio and it is good for raw talent and
her age.  She
REALLY loves making the renderings.  She said she hurries up
and finishes
her "gifted" classwork to where she can draw renderings in
her spare time.
She sneaks and spends her allowance on Tom Tierney paper
doll books.  She
said people think she is crazy because she buys paper doll
books.  She uses
the doll bodies to trace then she draws her own costumes on
them.

I discussed with her the difference between costume and
fashion designers.
She said she wanted to be a costume designer.  I feel so bad
for her, I know
the expectations some parents place on gifted kids.  Part of
me wants to
hand her my Dover books and some good costume videos.  Now
that she knows my
interest, I know she is going to be following me around.  I
don't want her
parents  to think I am  the "EVIL MENTOR".

Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation?  Has
anyone dealt with
people who think you are beneath them because of your
costuming
profession/interest?  Would you go on and feed the young
mind?  Did your
parents not like your costuming gifts?

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 07:57:20 1999
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

As others have said, emphasizing the intellectual/historical/challenging
aspects is a great idea. You might also pick up a copy (or find one for
the parents!) of "Reviving Ophelia:  saving the selves of adolescent
girls" by Mary Pipher (Pub. New York : Putnam, c1994.) She has some
interesting things to say about supporting adolescent and pre-adolescent
girls' interests, even if those interests are not what the parents would
consider important. As the mum of a 14 year old daughter, I've found
Pipher's ideas have come to the rescue many times. 

- Hope
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>I wonder if much of the sense people have today that these clothes
are

>drab/unattractive stems from the fact that so many people reproducing
them

>have used the wrong fabric. I have seen many, many "generic tunics"
made

>of cotton because it's cheap, readily available, and (presumably) 

>comfortable. But cotton is *not* a suitable substitute for linen or
wool

>-- it hangs and flows very differently, without the smooth draping
and

>subtle "glow." And it wears much worse than medieval fibers,
particularly

>after washing. I've found layered linen and wool (or, in the right
time

>and place, a strong silk) to be more comfortable than cotton even in

>90-degree heat, and it looks superb. 

>


I just finished the book <underline>The Italian Cotton Industry in the
later Middle Ages 1100-1600</underline> by Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui
which clearly demonstrates that Cotton is medieval. Before 1100 she
says cotton was billed much like silk as a luxury item. It was the
Italian mass marketing murchant houses that made it into a common man's
clothing. So I would say that cotton was a medieval fiber.


However, I do agree that it drapes differently. I just wonder that one
would feel so confined to using wool and linen when cotton is period.



Francesca da Bari

Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)

Francesca.da.Bari

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 09:11:00 1999
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:
>  I just finished the book The Italian Cotton Industry in the later
> Middle Ages 1100-1600 by Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui which clearly
> demonstrates that Cotton is medieval. Before 1100 she says cotton was
> billed much like silk as a luxury item. It was the Italian mass
> marketing murchant houses that made it into a common man's clothing.
> So I would say that cotton was a medieval fiber.

This is fascinating. Did it mention how cotton was used? For that
matter, couold anyone comment or point me to sources on how any of the
other textiles were used, say for the period 1400-1600. For example, a
recent source that I read talked about the Roman use of cotton for
buntings and draperies, not necessarily for clothing. 

So, for wool, silk, linen and cotton which would most likely be used for
clothing, which for lining, which for underclothes, which for household
use, etc.? Looking at art images it would appear that wool in many
weights was usually used for outer layers (I mean simply the layer that
you see, as opposed to lining and interlining), linen was usually used
for lining and undergarments, silk was used for outer layers and for
undergaments, cotton batting for padding and stuffing and maybe for
other things. But were linen and cotton used for outer layers?

And one more question: was it more likely for linen lining to be undyed
(or bleached), dyed a different/contrasting color, or dyed a similar
color to the garment it was lining?

- Hope
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation?  Has anyone dealt with
>people who think you are beneath them because of your costuming
>profession/interest?  Would you go on and feed the young mind?  Did your
>parents not like your costuming gifts?


One the one hand, I identify strongly with the young lady, as I too, had
parents who didn't think sewing class was an appropriate choice for a
"gifted" student.

 On the other hand, and as a parent,  I can sympathize with her father.  He
has a gifted child who is interested in entering a profession in which it is
almost impossible to make a decent living.  After working in a costume shop
where I was one of the few without a masters degree in costume design, and
all of us were making under $10 an hour (that's UNION scale, BTW) I can
certainly understand his misgivings.  

I wouldn't discourage the young lady from pursuing her interests, but I'd
sure urge to to learn some other, marketable and well paid skill.   I sure
wish I had.

Margo 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 09:45:00 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Late 18th/Early 19th Century Fabric Printing
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:52:05 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Good book on the subject:  The Fabric of Society, by Jane Tozer.  Available 
ILL, if nothing else.

>From: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "'h-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: Late 18th/Early 19th Century Fabric Printing
>Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:33:29 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
>
>
>I have a question regarding Late 18th/Early 19th century fabric printing
>techniques.
>
>Would the entire fabric have been dyed a color, and *then* the print 
>applied
>over, or would an appropriate amount of white be left after the color was
>applied where the print would then be applied?
>
>Thanks,
>-Jill
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 10:10:30 1999
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Subject: H-COST: zupon
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-Poster: Carole Frick <cfrick@siue.edu>

Dear All,
	The discussion on the meaning of the term "zupon" and its relatives has
finally led me to put in my two cents.  According to Stella Mary Newton, in
Renaissance Venice, a "zupon" was a garment worn by males (which was called
a "farsetto" in Florence), that is, a man's doublet, close-fitting, and
quilted with cotton wool stuffing, which was worn over an undershirt like a
close-fitting, hip-length vest.  The craftsmen who fashioned these garments
were called "zupponieri".  Best, Carole

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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 12:26:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


On Wed, 19 May 1999, Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:

> I just finished the book _The Italian Cotton Industry in the later
> Middle Ages 1100-1600_ by Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui which clearly
> demonstrates that Cotton is medieval. Before 1100 she says cotton was
> billed much like silk as a luxury item. It was the Italian mass
> marketing murchant houses that made it into a common man's clothing. So
> I would say that cotton was a medieval fiber. 
> 
> However, I do agree that it drapes differently. I just wonder that one
> would feel so confined to using wool and linen when cotton is period.

Oh, there's no doubt that cotton was a medieval fiber, and I hope I didn't
suggest otherwise. But it was by no means a common one, and just because
it was available doesn't mean it was appropriate for any given type of
garment. My point in my earlier post was not to say that cotton was never
ever used, but rather that the drapy long tunics we were discussing simply
don't look right or wear well in cotton (at least not in today's cottons)
compared to wools, silks, and linens. All evidence I've seen suggests that
wool, in particular, was the default common cloth used for these garments.
If cotton were used for them, it would have been comparatively rare, and
it probably would not have had the same look.

I don't feel "confined" to wool and linen -- I choose to use them, because
by doing so, I feel I'm more likely to be able to replicate the typical
look and feel of clothing of the period. I've tried cotton, and I don't
like what it does for these clothes. Replicating the "typical" is
particularly important in my line of research, which is to work out
cutting and construction techniques.  Construction methods reflect the
common materials, not the exceptions. The methods may be applied (and
adapted) for use with non-typical materials, but the main development of
the methods will reflect the more universal fabrics. 

I have other books by Mazzaoui, but not the one you mention. I would be
interested to learn what she says about the cotton trade. I note you
mentioned men's clothing in particular, so I wonder what specific garments
cotton was used for -- and where. Italian clothing is quite different from
Northern and Western European clothing, in many regards (cut, color,
silhouette). I suspect that availability/preference for different types of
cloth contributes to some of that difference.

I've seen cotton in medieval Western European embroidery (both thread and
ground fabric) and, if I recall correctly, it was used for cushions and
similar non-garment items with some regularity. I'd have to hunt up the
references, but I think also it was used for the ground (or was it the
pile?) in some velvets. The velvets would typically have been used for bed
hangings and the like for most of the period. So, obviously cotton was in
use -- but not typically chosen for clothing, and when it was, most likely
that was not for basic garments for the vast majority of the population.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 12:14:45 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

The caption on this cartoon is "How gravity has given new meaning to
'Fall' Fashion"
http://www.comics.com/comics/warped/archive/images/warped914605090510.gif

--Charlene

--
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is
research.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 12:34:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:39:23 -0700
From: Fred Struthers <fsbks@mcn.org>
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-Poster: Fred Struthers <fsbks@mcn.org>

Respectfully submitted to h-costume members:

I am stocking Juan de Alcega's TAILOR'S PATTERN BOOK: 1589 indefinitely
so if you need a copy email me at fsbks@mcn.org - or you can reach me
through the RL Shep Publications website, URL below.

FS
Books on Cloth - a catalog of hard-to-find and out-of-print costume and
textile books - all eras
-- 
Fred Struthers
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks

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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:44:50 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Juan de Alcega
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Fred Struthers <fsbks@mcn.org>
>
>Respectfully submitted to h-costume members:
>
>I am stocking Juan de Alcega's TAILOR'S PATTERN BOOK: 1589 indefinitely
>so if you need a copy email me at fsbks@mcn.org - or you can reach me
>through the RL Shep Publications website, URL below.
>
>FS
>Books on Cloth - a catalog of hard-to-find and out-of-print costume and
>textile books - all eras
>--
>Fred Struthers
>http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks
>



What's the price?

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 13:08:57 1999
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-Poster: Fred Struthers <fsbks@mcn.org>

Lynn Downward wrote:
 
> What's the price?
> 
> LynnD

The price is $42 plus 2.75 and 3.04 sales tax, if you are a CA resident.

Foreign surface shipping is a bit higher.
-- 
Fred Struthers
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com


In a message dated 5/19/99 2:17:26 PM, fsbks@mcn.org writes:

<< The price is $42 plus 2.75 and 3.04 sales tax, if you are a CA resident. >>

If you have a Border's bookstore near you, you could save yourself $2 plus 
shipping. My copy I got last week was $40. I highly recommend getting the 
Tailor's Pattern book..it's got lots o' neat stuff. :)

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 15:47:15 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 16:55:56 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


> It sounds beautiful.  I am really proud of the dress that I hand 
> sewed.  It makes you really take pride in your accomplishments.  My 
> only complaint is that SCA judges always slam my clothing because 
> they think that it should be heavily embellished (it does look very 
> unadorned next to an Elizabethian, but looks really kick butt in the 
> drape and quantity of material).
> 
> Melangell

This happened to my Laurel once, before she was elevated. She spent so much time hand 
sewing an Italian Ren dress out of blue linen, using linen thread and even sewing with a 
bone needle. She did not embellish it much if at all (heck, she was still hemming it on her 
way to the event where the competition was being held-- and she was driving at the time! 
Yes, we yelled at her about that) but she did not do well in the competition because the 
judges gave her poor marks in complexity. Phooie!  =P  The dress was well made, draped 
beautifully and its lines were very authentic for that period. 

--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 17:18:17 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 15:22:03 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

> On Tue, 18 May 1999, J,K,S&A Baird wrote:
>
> >
> > Also, I would be very surprised if this girl's interest actually
> leads her
> > to study costume design in college, or end up working in costume
> design. It
> > may happen, but intense interest at her age is no great predicter of
> the
> > future.
> >
> Oh, I don't know about that. I went through plenty of phases from when
> I
> was about 8 of being sure I was going to do x (archaeologist, fashion
> designer, restranteur, actor), but I'm still pretty fixed on one of
> the
> \things I was sure of when I was 14. Of course, I also changed my mind
>
> about what course I was doing after my first year in university :-)
> I think I pretty much agree with what everyone else has said so far
> though.
> Sometimes I feel there's a pressure, if you're very intelligent to
> somehow
> 'contribute', to do something significant, but it's often overlooked
> that
> the arts enrich people's lives as much as any important discovery.

FWIW maybe suggest that the father rent "Good Will Hunting" and maybe he
will realize that just because someone is highly intelligent, it doesn't
mean that they necessarily *want* to be part of a big "think tank" or to
cure cancer.  For those that do, fine.  But how can you say to someone
"You must be a <doctor, lawyer, scientist, etc.>" if that person doesn't
want to be?

And I agree that maybe having a doctorate in historical costume or being
a costume designer won't net you big bucks (unless you work for Steven
Spielberg!) but it may be a completely rewarding career for her and her
father should respect that.  After all, isn't the main feeling of all
parents that their children should grow up to be healthy & happy?  If
so, he should take another look at *her* interests and wishes rather
than his own.....

Just my two pennies,

Diana :~>



>
>
> -
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care,
> Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
> and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
> friendly substance.
> -------------------
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 18:29:55 1999
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From: CDepner26@webtv.net (Harold Hensley)
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 19:37:49 -0400 (EDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: gifted student
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-Poster: CDepner26@webtv.net (Harold Hensley)

Being a parent with a gifted child it baffles me to hear that a parent
would not encourage their child in their interests.  My daughter at
present time wants to persue a career in archaeology and I fully support
her interest.  Even though she may not decide to persue this career she
is learning and enriching herself.  I can't image denying a child the
right to learn.  Costuming involves a lot of historical research which
will benefit her whether or not she chooses to persue this a career or
not.  Isn't best for you to enjoy the field you choose rather than being
stuck in a job you dread?  Besides isn't the child's happiness what's
important?

C. Depner

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 18:46:45 1999
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From: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Greetings!

  I've been reading the responses to this subject with interest - our group "demo-s"
for the local "gifted" classes almost every year, and the parents have always been
extremely supportive.
    First, please don't encourage the girl to go against her father's wishes - this could
lead to big trouble for the girl AND yourself - nasty notes to the schoolboard, etc,
aren't going to do anyone any good.
   However, perhaps the girl's counselor or someone the father would listen to could
speak to him - talents should never be squashed, and our "fantasy" lives are
extremely important for happiness and development, especially for young people.
You can't grow up and cure cancer or build the first light-speed spaceship if you're
locked up in the Neurosis Farm....
   And has anyone heard from her mother?  Perhaps that might be path to take.
Or encourage the history teacher, art teacher, whoever, to work in a short unit
covering such interests - clothing, after all, has always said so much about the
society it comes from!

  Good Luck to you and this young lady,
    Liadain

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 19:25:14 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ladies Indipensable Assistant
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:33:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

As a combined effort, Kat Hargus of Making Time and I have placed on my
website excerpts from an original 1852 book, Ladies Indipensable Assistant,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Book_1852/homepage.htm .  This book covers a
wide variety of topics including: how to create dyes for certain colors,
several embroidery stitches, etiquette for ladies and gentlemen, beadwork,
also, stitching and cleaning household items.   Kat provided the book and
typed the information (kudos).  I designed, laid out, and provided the space
for it.  Have fun reading about how people did things 145 years ago!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Message-ID: <37435C8F.BF38B6FC@best.com>
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 17:51:27 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Ladies Indipensable Assistant
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>


Penny Ladnier wrote:

> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
>
> As a combined effort, Kat Hargus of Making Time and I have placed on my
> website excerpts from an original 1852 book, Ladies Indipensable Assistant,
> http://www.costumegallery.com/Book_1852/homepage.htm .  This book covers a
> wide variety of topics including: how to create dyes for certain colors,
> several embroidery stitches, etiquette for ladies and gentlemen, beadwork,
> also, stitching and cleaning household items.   Kat provided the book and
> typed the information (kudos).  I designed, laid out, and provided the space
> for it.  Have fun reading about how people did things 145 years ago!
>

This is primarily a cookbook?  It was reprinted in 1971 and
http://www2.alibris.com/ currently shows  six copies for sale at prices as low
as $12, if anyone is interested.  The longest bookseller description reads:

Hutchinson, E.  facsimile Cookbook Collector's Library Louisville, KY 1971 HB
          VG/no dj, blk spine w/cream bds, no dj 8vo, 138, Here are the very
best
          directions f/the behavior & etiquette of Ladies & gentlemen, Ladies
toilette
          table, directions f/managing canary birds, also, safe directions f/the

          management of children, instructions f/ladies under various
circumstances, a
          great variety of valuable recipes, forming a complete system of family
medicine,
          thus enabling each person to become his or her own physician to which
is
          added one of the best systems of cookery every published. reprinted by

          Cookbook Collector's Library. Has chapter on medical properties of
plants, plus
          married ladies' indispensable companion and family physician.



Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 19:54:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>

Hey, Susan!  If I'd read your reply before doing mine, I wouldn't have
had to!  Well put!

Kay
kayherb@juno.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT/ Gifted Student
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>

Perhaps I'm really reaching here, but do you think it would do any good
(assuming you can get the parents' ear even briefly) to work into the
"argument" the cultural research, spatial relationships (mathematics),
philosophical study, etc. that goes into costume work?  It really is
intelligent work and something not everyone cares to pursue because of
the need for that research and attention to detail.  And not only in
historical costuming, but costuming in general.  Maybe they need to look
past the assumed frivolity of clothing and get exposed to the breadth of
knowledge that we all have gained in our work.  Then again, if your
student can stick with it in whatever time is allowed to her for it, and
if she can somehow even "accidentally" expose her parents to the how's
and why's, they might begin to see it themselves?

Just a thought from a gramma who took the time to observe her own
daughter's interest in Marilyn Monroe in light of her own obsession with
18c stuff.  We're both "gifted children" who chose a different path from
the others.  And our families, though admittedly thinking we were sorta
strange, appreciated us for what we are.

Kay
kayherb@juno.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 20:38:50 1999
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Date: 	Wed, 19 May 1999 15:46:42 -1000
From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Juan de Alcega
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> If you have a Border's bookstore near you, you could save yourself $2 plus 
> shipping. My copy I got last week was $40. I highly recommend getting the 
> Tailor's Pattern book..it's got lots o' neat stuff. :)

	I tried to order it from Borders last week but even tho' I had the
ISBN, title, author, publisher, etc., they wouldn't do it for me. :(

	For anyone who has ordered it directly from Quite Specific Media,
what was the cost of shipping?

lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 19 20:48:11 1999
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

try Fred Struthers
fsbks@mcn.org
he is an h-costume list member
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks

----------
>From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Juan de Alcega
>Date: Wed, May 19, 1999, 6:46 PM
>

>
>-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>> If you have a Border's bookstore near you, you could save yourself $2
plus 
>> shipping. My copy I got last week was $40. I highly recommend getting the

>> Tailor's Pattern book..it's got lots o' neat stuff. :)
>
> I tried to order it from Borders last week but even tho' I had the
>ISBN, title, author, publisher, etc., they wouldn't do it for me. :(
>
> For anyone who has ordered it directly from Quite Specific Media,
>what was the cost of shipping?
>
>lisa
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: fabric savvy
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:18:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

this book may not be news to anybody on this list but given conversations on
how to pretreat fabrics i thought it might be useful -

pick up sandra betzina's "fabric savvy". i just got my copy from amazon
today and am mightily impressed. it includes some 80+ fabrics (natural and
synthetic) and includes preparation, sewing methods, designs best suited for
the fabric, best closures/ sewing machine feet etc. compact too.

allison


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

One thing to remember is that not all SCA groups are the same, just 
like all other Costume Contests (no matter what the group) are the 
same. In our area (An Tir, which is NW US and Western Canada), 
embellishment which is inappropriate is not given any positive 
reinforcement. Although Elizabethans have won our contests, it is 
actually more frequent that a well made, very sparsely adorned 14th 
Century or Middle Eastern will win. The important thing is that the 
embellishment is appropriate to the time and place (and that the 
garment is well made.)
 
> > It sounds beautiful.  I am really proud of the dress that I hand 
> > sewed.  It makes you really take pride in your accomplishments.  My 
> > only complaint is that SCA judges always slam my clothing because 
> > they think that it should be heavily embellished (it does look very 
> > unadorned next to an Elizabethian, but looks really kick butt in the 
> > drape and quantity of material).
> > 
> > Melangell
> 
> This happened to my Laurel once, before she was elevated. She spent so much time hand 
> sewing an Italian Ren dress out of blue linen, using linen thread and even sewing with a 
> bone needle. She did not embellish it much if at all (heck, she was still hemming it on her 
> way to the event where the competition was being held-- and she was driving at the time! 
> Yes, we yelled at her about that) but she did not do well in the competition because the 
> judges gave her poor marks in complexity. Phooie!  =P  The dress was well made, draped 
> beautifully and its lines were very authentic for that period. 
> 
> --Jessica
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 14:10:09 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetins,

>I am really going to open up a can of worms, but I would really like your
>advice.  I teach at a middle school and was asked by the Art teacher to
>review a "gifted" student's portfolio.  Gifted meaning she is attending a
>special section of our school for children with very high I.Q.'s.
>(Personally I believe we all have gifts.)  The reason I was asked to review
>her portfolio is because the entire portfolio is costume illustrations.
>
>The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
>renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.

This hits so close to home it is unreal.  I was in those "gifted" classes
all through school and my only interest was in art and costume.  My parents
discouraged me constantly, trying to force me into areas for which I had no
apptitude - things like engineering because areas like that were "a
suitable field" for intelligent people and had "a future."  Now, because I
didn't follow my true inclination I'm frustrated and trying to go back to
school to do what I NEED to do.

After all that personal information, all I can say is encourage her.  Even
if it means being an "evil mentor".  She will be lucky to have someone who
will respect her gifts and support her.

At the same time I think Susan's advice is valid and work on the parents.
If mine were anything to go by, mention university recognition, research
posibilities, and mulitiple career options in respected fields and they
will probably come around.

Good luck.
Danielle


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: koz@value.net

Date sent:      	Tue, 18 May 1999 20:05:46 -0600 (MDT)
To:             	h-costume@indra.com
From:           	Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject:        	Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Send reply to:  	h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
> 
> At 12:36 PM 05/18/1999 -0700, koz@value.net wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: koz@value.net
> >
> >Does anybody know the effects on wool at high heat but no 
> >moisture?  Are there any ill effects?
> >
> >Thank you in advance.
> >
> >Michael Quan
> 
> As long as the wool is dry, the high heat of a dryer will not do any harm.
> In fact, it's a good way to kill off any eggs from moths and other such
> creatures who eat wool. Just be certain that the fabric is pure wool.
> 
>
In fact, it's an Alpaca blanket and is pure wool...

Thanks for all the help.

Michael
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From: Christina Nevin <cnevin@caci.co.uk>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE Cotton
Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:16:02 +0100
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-Poster: Christina Nevin <cnevin@caci.co.uk>

Hi everyone,

I've been doing dilatory research on the sale of cotton through Venice for a
little while, so here's a couple of comments. In regards to the outer
garment question:

"Whilst discussing the doublet-makers (known as giubbonari, zuparii or
giubbettieri), Newton relates after 1219 they were governed by similar rules
to other types of tailor. She notes that "materials other then cloth -
leather and cotton-wool, for instance" were used in making doublets, or
zupon. Like other tailors, they were not allowed to mix old cloth with new
in construction of outer garments, and were also not allowed "to mix old and
new bombacinum to use as padding". "

(bombacinum was used for 'cottonwool') And it was also sold outside Italy in
Spain; 

"In Appendix B.III Newton relates "On 28 June 1506 Priuli (I dirii, I,
p.424) noted the arrival of ships from Syria cum sachi 700 gottoni  of
Cyprus and sachi 160  of Syria. On 15 June 1525 a letter from 'India'
includes the information that the country is healthy; there are fruits,
pams, hens and pigs and many cotton cloths - panni de goton (Sanudo, XXXIX,
col. 59). The letter was addressed to the emperor from the town of Panama,
so that although the index to this volume includes this entry under India
orientale, the reference must, surely, be to the New World. The letter also
states that the cotton was sold through the Castile market. On 21 August of
the same year a cargo from Tripoli, passing through Cyprus, includes salt
and gatoni (Sanudo, XXXIX, col. 332)."

Here are the books which I've found mention the Venetian cotton trade:

Jardine, Lisa  
Worldly Goods : A New History of the Renaissance 
W.W. Norton & Company, September 1998
ISBN: 0393318664

Lane, Frederic
Venice, a Maritime Republic 
The Johns Hopkins University Press, November 1973
ISBN: 080181460X 

Newton, Stella Mary
The Dress of the Venetians 1495-1525 
Pasold Studies in Textile History 7 
Scolar Press, January 1989
ISBN: 0859677354 

Thank you for the Mazzaoui reference, whoever that was. I shall have to see
if I can get a copy through my library.

Cheers,
Tina
 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Lady Lucrezia-Isabella di Freccia   |  mka Tina Nevin
Thamesreach Shire, The Isles, Drachenwald | London, UK
thorngrove@geocities.com | http://www.geocities.com/~thorngrove  
"There is no doubt that great leaders prefer hard drinkers to good
versifiers" - Aretino, 1536 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
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From: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: gifted student
Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 07:32:42 -0400
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-Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>

I feel there is insufficient information regarding this gifted student.  As
I understand it, the request to review the costume portfolio was made by the
art teacher.  So: who said the father felt the activity was beneath the
child?  The art teacher?  The child?

Also: as I recall the description, the child used Tom Tierney paper dolls as
models on which to create her costumes.  I can imagine a father seeing his
daughter do what he perceives as "tracing" as an art project and feel that
her creativity warrants more than such an exercise.

Lastly, if the child receives positive feedback--particularly from an
"expert"--regarding her work, it will help her to make her own decisions,
now as well as later.

Many years ago when (as an adult, of course!) I elected to work as a
first-grade teacher, a lot of people who knew me asked "Why are you wasting
yourself teaching first grade?"  I didn't "waste" my time trying to explain
the challenge, creativity, and satisfaction of that endeavor.  I just told
them it was because that was what I wanted to do then.  So the other thing I
have to say about this topic (besides that there is not enough data to
understand the context of the father's concerns) is that not everyone WILL
get the same smell from the identical flower.

(I left first-grade teaching decades ago, and--as Mae West once said, have
"been things and done places, and still haven't decided what I want to do
when I grow up.  As William Birner's postings on this subject clearly
demonstrate, we CAN do many things with one life!)

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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>




> The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
> renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.
> 
> She uses the doll bodies to trace then she draws her own costumes on them.

gee, now why didn't *I* think of that.  :)I had someone show me how to
do figures at a young age and I just went from there.  mine was all
strictly from observation. While I didn't do alot of design at the time,
I was very much interested in styles I received NO encouragement
WHATSOEVER in ANYTHING I found of great interest - primarily drama, I
wanted to act so badly.  Being as that was the case, I simply dealt with
the limitations and being as I was not to be dissuaded, simply put off
what I really wanted to do.  Ok, so I'm not acting ... but I AM getting
to make wonderful clothes from history.  

I have learned MORE about historical events DOING costume than I EVER
did in school.  had I been more far sighted, I would have payed closer
attention to the "when something was worn"  I mean, it all comes back to
me as..."OH YEAH!" and therefore makes research much easier....

Maybe...if it was approached in this way -- addressed as a temporary
measure, until she's old enough to make her own decisions, this could
eventually win her parents support.  Also, figures and information
regarding costuming as NOT being MENIAL seamstress work may help as
well.  

> Any suggestions as how to deal with this situation?  Has anyone dealt with
> people who think you are beneath them because of your costuming
> profession/interest?  Would you go on and feed the young mind?  Did your
> parents not like your costuming gifts?

I have run into comments (after I say I am a costume/clothing designer)
"oh, I sew too"  I don't kmow if it's an attempt to belittle my
profession, or, being as I sew and create, they want to elevate
themselves from what they consider menial in their own day to day, by
saying "Oh, I can do that too"
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> > This happened to my Laurel once, before she was elevated. She spent
so much time hand 
> > sewing an Italian Ren dress out of blue linen, using linen thread and
even sewing with a 
> > bone needle. She did not embellish it much if at all (heck, she was
still hemming it on her 
> > way to the event where the competition was being held-- and she was
driving at the time! 
> > Yes, we yelled at her about that) but she did not do well in the
competition because the 
> > judges gave her poor marks in complexity. Phooie!  =P  The dress was
well made, draped 
> > beautifully and its lines were very authentic for that period. 

That is a problem with earlier period clothing--the fitting can be just as
complex, if not more complex, for a cotehardie than for a 16th century
bodice & skirt, but people's eyes are more easily drawn to elaborate
decoration than to beautifully cut and draped linen. A lot of the earlier
period garments look great on the person--but like a shapeless sack on a
hanger.

Drea



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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Gifted Student
Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:50:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

It's important to reach into  a person's mind where they
are, and if she 's so fixated with costume, show her parents
that it is the mental outline for her, to which all facts
pertaining to history, material culture, design can be
attached and incorporated into her brain.  I could never
keep history straight when I was in school  until I took art
history.  History seemed to be a series of kings, queens,
and dates, which I couldn't remember.  I could understand
the life styles of each period, and I like that part.  When
I took art history, I found I had a knack for seeing the
differences and development in the visual things, and had no
trouble dating an item correctly.  Voila!  Suddenly it
became the mental fabric I needed in order to keep the rest
of history straighter in my head.

Now that I've studied costume, my grasp on history and
material culture has advanced by light years.  I can
remember an Elizabethan costume, and all the material
details, paintings, persons wearing them, and now for the
first time kings, queens, and dates.  But  costume as the
visual image is the construct on which all of the other
understandings hang. Your student might be a "visual
learner" like me.  Explain to her parents that costume is
her vehicle for learning presently, and has serious merit in
that it that it helps her reach and put in order a vast
world of "more academically acceptable" types of knowledge.

One of my son's pervading interests for a long time was
guns, much to my distress.  It finally occurred to me to
look at guns as his vehicle for learning.  It really calmed
me.  We went to Williamsburg, and at five years old, he
peppered the gunsmith with so many intelligent questions for
over 1/2 hour, that the other visitors just held quiet and
learned from the answers.  He asked many intelligent
questions we adults had never head of.  From there is was
books on battles, including The Iliad, which he loved.
Books on explorers like Sir Francis Drake, "the Pirate" with
all the adventure, strategy, material culture, and history.
His interest in guns appears very  little any more, but it
was the point upon which we took off into the greater world.

Hope H. Dunlap



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Frank&Tracy Thallas JR
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:57 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student



-Poster: "Frank&Tracy Thallas JR" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Greetings!

  I've been reading the responses to this subject with
interest - our group "demo-s"
for the local "gifted" classes almost every year, and the
parents have always been
extremely supportive.
    First, please don't encourage the girl to go against her
father's wishes - this could
lead to big trouble for the girl AND yourself - nasty notes
to the schoolboard, etc,
aren't going to do anyone any good.
   However, perhaps the girl's counselor or someone the
father would listen to could
speak to him - talents should never be squashed, and our
"fantasy" lives are
extremely important for happiness and development,
especially for young people.
You can't grow up and cure cancer or build the first
light-speed spaceship if you're
locked up in the Neurosis Farm....
   And has anyone heard from her mother?  Perhaps that might
be path to take.
Or encourage the history teacher, art teacher, whoever, to
work in a short unit
covering such interests - clothing, after all, has always
said so much about the
society it comes from!

  Good Luck to you and this young lady,
    Liadain


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From: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>
Subject: H-COST: From Jupon to zipun
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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

- -Poster: Christina Nevin <cnevin@caci.co.uk>

Hello,

Christina Nevin has come up with some interesting references to cotton fabric 
in Renaissance Italy. While I have no interest in reviving the so-called 
"cotton wars" of a few years back (for those of you who remember them), it is 
sufficient to say that we went into this question from a bewildering variety 
of angles and I still came away with the belief that linen, silk and wool were 
the common clothing fabrics of Europe until the 18th century, when cotton 
first became widely available and affordable.

That aside, I am much more interested in the seeming connection between an 
earlier thread about Polish coats called "zupans" and the doublets whose 
makers Christina cites as "giubbonari, zuparii or giubbettieri." Is there a 
connection between the Italian words for doublets, the French word "jupon," 
the later Polish coat called a zupan (pronounced "zhupan" as someone pointed 
out), the Ukranian fitted coat called by the same name, and a heavy, often 
quilted, coat from Russia called a "zipun?" It seems likely to me that these 
garments, though at times differing widely in their cut and function, might 
have a common linguistic tie. Can anyone comment?

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I have run into comments (after I say I am a costume/clothing designer)
"oh, I sew too"  I don't kmow if it's an attempt to belittle my
profession, or, being as I sew and create, they want to elevate
themselves from what they consider menial in their own day to day, by
saying "Oh, I can do that too">>

Did it never occur to you they just might possibly have wanted to establish
some rapport with you, and share a love of mutual interests? Your only two
reactions are that people are specifically out to belittle you, or they're
beneath you in their menial lives. I think there are many other motives,
quite benigh, that might cause some one to say "I sew too."

Your attitude seems closer to the father of the gifted child, although in a
different direction, than I would be comfortable with.


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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I wish I could quote a source but I am at work.  I believe that "cotton-wool"
does not mean that the fibers were cotton.  Cotton, in fact, was a technique
used on wool in the period that you mention, not a fiber.  I distinctly remember
being warned not to confuse the two terms in the early years of cotton
production.  If you look in today's dictionary it will say that cotton wool is
cotton before it's been processed in any way, the fluff taken right off the
plant.  If I'm not mistaken (and this is always possible *g*) the plant that we
know today as cotton was named as such because it resembled the fluff on
"cottoned" wool.  Can someone back me up?  Cynthia

> "Whilst discussing the doublet-makers (known as giubbonari, zuparii or
> giubbettieri), Newton relates after 1219 they were governed by similar rules
> to other types of tailor. She notes that "materials other then cloth -
> leather and cotton-wool, for instance" were used in making doublets, or
> zupon.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>



Dear List Members

I have just posted some a few Period Patterns and some Folkwear on Ebay.  As
well as some Paste Sequins for the 1900, and of all things Klingon Jewelry.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=madly&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

I will be posting more patterns next week.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

> Did it never occur to you they just might possibly have wanted to establish
> some rapport with you, and share a love of mutual interests? Your only two
> reactions are that people are specifically out to belittle you, or they're
> beneath you in their menial lives. I think there are many other motives,
> quite benigh, that might cause some one to say "I sew too."

it was NOT meant in that manner!  and I do NOT look at myself as above
them.  You don't know where these comments were made, or in the manner
in which they were made, because I didn't share that with u.  from a
several of the comments like that, yes, in talking to the person (and I
DO talk to them - I kno you think I 'dismissed' them, and that simply
wasn't the case), it was OBVIOUS they were trying to establish a
rapport.  and others, I agree in presentation, it was benign, just a
passing comment.  and then there WERE the comments made that were MEANT
to be taken just as they were received.  
 
> Your attitude seems closer to the father of the gifted child, although in a
> different direction, than I would be comfortable with.

I won't address this comment. you are entitled to your opinion.  it was
NOT my intent to start a flame war.  *my* comment was meant in a benign
manner as well.
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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:42:34 -0500
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From: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gifted Student
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-Poster: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>

>Did it never occur to you they just might possibly have wanted to establish
>some rapport with you, and share a love of mutual interests?

Not usually.  I've had way too many conversations like this, and while there
are a few people who are trying to share a mutual interest, I've finished
up a lot more conversations feeling like I'd been put down.  This ONLY has
happened with things people think are "easy."  I don't get it now that I'm
an education major.  It's not an easy little hobby type job.

Kimberly

Kimberly Gilbert	    kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net
"This is terrible news!  Do you actually intend to kill your 
enemies?  Can't you just speak sternly to them?"
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

I have been trying to keep my mouth shut on this subject, but as usual, I've 
failed....

I feel so much for this girl. I've been classified as a "gifted" student 
since I was in the third grade (I'm now a senior in high school after 
skipping a year). When you're classified as this, people DO have higher 
expectations! For example, as I'm leaving to take the AP Am. History test 
last week, my teacher pulls me aside- "Alison, you do know I'm expecting you 
to score highest on this". No pressure at all....

But my parents have been the worst. And they are TOTALLY against my decision 
to study costume design in college...the only way I'm allowed to major in 
theatre (and since they're footing a good part of the bill, I'm not 
complaining) is if I have a double major. Therefor, I will also have a degree 
in education. Probably not a bad idea, but it's a lot of credit hours I'd 
like to use elsewhere.

I'd encourage this girl to take as wide a range of classes as she 
can-definitely all the art available, but also upper level maths and sciences 
as far as possible (I've kind of ended up in calc, and that's as far as I can 
go in math. I'm totally lost), and especially social sciences and humanities, 
which will lend themselves to the study of costuming. Tell her not to give 
up, but also not to keep this a little talent. In high school, see if she can 
do volunteer work at a local theatre to start learning practical applications 
of the work. Once you have a resume and start to look like you actually are 
going somewhere with this, parents change from when it's just a "waste of 
time". I know my father started looking at me differently when I got a paying 
job as a theatrical costumer and an offer to help costume guides at Stan 
Hywett Hall this summer.

Let her know if she ever wants to talk, she can feel free to e-mail me. 
Mostly, though, diversify yourself, but never give up what you love.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Canton, Ohio
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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:33:33 -0600
From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: 1200s trim and the southern italians.
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>


>
>I have other books by Mazzaoui, but not the one you mention. I would be
>interested to learn what she says about the cotton trade. I note you
>mentioned men's clothing in particular, so I wonder what specific garments
>cotton was used for -- and where. Italian clothing is quite different from
>Northern and Western European clothing, in many regards (cut, color,
>silhouette). I suspect that availability/preference for different types of
>cloth contributes to some of that difference.

Dear Robin,

I think I missunderstood you. Forgive me. I am currently researching 13th
century southern italian garb. It's interesting because the medieval
Kingdom of Sicily reached it's pinicle during this century and then crashed
and split, Sicilian Vespers being in the middle of the century which split
the kingdom in to two. Many of the masters who taught the great masters who
began the Enlightenment appearently were refugees who fled the choas and
went north to Emperial friendly cities in the north. What descriptions I
have of Frederick II of Sicily say that he was more like an Eastern prince
than a christian. He bathed every day (which was enough to be weird). His
queens lived and died in harems.

The history, the heat of being only a few hundred miles from the Sahara,
and the fact that christians rubbed shoulders with both Arabs (who still
practiced Islam) and Jews and were tolerant of their religions though could
not convert creates a fasinating dynamic. Fashion would have been part of
that dynamic. As far as I can tell the people of Frederick's court would
have worn home grown silk at court and perhaps home grown (and northern
italian produced) cotton. I have no solid evidence of this since no one
cares about southern italy or her history even to this day except a few of
us. The research is very cutting edge (or perhaps not even tried). The
authors who center their work on this region say that the biggest
difficulties they have is the fact that to study southern Italy one must
know Greek, Latin, and Arabic to say nothing of medieval Pugliese, medieval
Napolitese, medieval Siciliano and medieval Calibrese. They say there
aren't any currently publishing who know all three to an exceptable level.

Given these problems and conditions what little I've learned is tantilizing
but incomplete. I have one bust from the Castel del Monte which looks as
though she might be wearing a cyclas. I've lived in Southern italy and I
can't imagine that she's wearing wool. I found a site with pictures of some
mosics from a cathedral in Monreale Sicily but they are a hundred years
earlier. The people in the pictures might be wearing silk but I'm not sure.

Isn't there anyone out there who can tell me a little more about 13th
century Italian clothing or might know where I can get references to look
for Southern Italian garb? The histroy makes me wonder if their fashion was
unique or if each ethnic group had its own garb and as they had their own
religion. Can anyone help?


Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:43:10 -0600
From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cotton was Re: 1200s trim
In-reply-to: <3742D739.1E8B@uvm.edu>
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>
>Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:
>>  I just finished the book The Italian Cotton Industry in the later
>> Middle Ages 1100-1600 by Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui which clearly
>> demonstrates that Cotton is medieval. Before 1100 she says cotton was
>> billed much like silk as a luxury item. It was the Italian mass
>> marketing murchant houses that made it into a common man's clothing.
>> So I would say that cotton was a medieval fiber.
>
>This is fascinating. Did it mention how cotton was used? For that
>matter, couold anyone comment or point me to sources on how any of the
>other textiles were used, say for the period 1400-1600. For example, a
>recent source that I read talked about the Roman use of cotton for
>buntings and draperies, not necessarily for clothing.
>

Ms. Mazzaoui said the cotton from Sicily, Spain, and north africa as well
as Turkish cotton was used in sail cloth and ruff cotton. Cotton from
Apulia (the highest grade of the cheap stuff) and the Eastern countries
along the Meditranian (particularly Damascas and its suburbs) were soft and
used in clothing. She said that cotton was being mass produced at such a
rate that poor people had cotton clothing (at least in northern italy) by
1600. I got the book on interlibrary loan. I strongly suggest that you read
it since it also talked about the German and Flemish cotton production
which was making cotton available and wearable by more people in the north
by 1400. She also mentions textile methods, the guilds, the problems of
keeping skilled workers in Northern Italy's volitile political climate and
so on. A fascinating read.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 20 May 1999, aleed wrote:

> 
> That is a problem with earlier period clothing--the fitting can be just as
> complex, if not more complex, for a cotehardie than for a 16th century
> bodice & skirt, but people's eyes are more easily drawn to elaborate
> decoration than to beautifully cut and draped linen. A lot of the earlier
> period garments look great on the person--but like a shapeless sack on a
> hanger.
> 
Agreed. It's very disconcerting when you make a cote-hardie that is 
practically a sculpture in the way it accomodates 3D forms, and then
put it on a hanger and bleah! 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 20 20:00:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:10:50 -0600
From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
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-Poster: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>

Greetings List,

Having participated in and judged a few A&S competitions, may I offer this?

Put your garment on a mannequin or dress form. When this isn't practical (4 people plus stuff in the
car, etc.), place a very good framed photograph of yourself wearing the garment and all the
accessories next to the piece, along with your documentation.

If you can manage it, don't hang the garment on a clothes rack with all the other wonderful pieces
that look great on but resemble potato sacks on the hanger. Make a stand that has a nice wooden
hanger at the top, a wooden dowel about 18" high and a nice base (think a hat stand with the hanger
instead of the dome). Place this on a table with your photo and documentation, with the arms and
skirt of the garment artfully draped over the table.

Hope this helps,

Mary Denise Smith
Costume & Dressmaker Press
Publications for Serious Costumers
http://www.costumemag.com



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Subject: Re: H-COST: RE Cotton
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:20 AM 05/20/1999 -0700, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>I wish I could quote a source but I am at work.  I believe that "cotton-wool"
>does not mean that the fibers were cotton.  Cotton, in fact, was a technique
>used on wool in the period that you mention, not a fiber.  I distinctly
remember
>being warned not to confuse the two terms in the early years of cotton
>production.  If you look in today's dictionary it will say that cotton wool is
>cotton before it's been processed in any way, the fluff taken right off the
>plant.  If I'm not mistaken (and this is always possible *g*) the plant that we
>know today as cotton was named as such because it resembled the fluff on
>"cottoned" wool.  Can someone back me up?  Cynthia

The trusty OED has about 2 pages about "cotton" and adjectives derived from it.

One of the obsolete noun meanings is "A woolen fabric of the nature of
frieze, in the 16th and 17th c. largely manufactured in Lancashire,
Westmoreland, and Wales (_Manchester_, _Kendal_ and _Welsh cotton_)." It
suggests that the name "cotton" as applied to these wool fabrics is
associated with the presence of a nap or downy surface. As a verb, an
obsolete meaning is "to form a down or nap on; to furnish with a nap, to
frieze."  A cottoned cloth is one that has a nap or is friezed. A cottoner
is "one who cottons, friezes, or puts a nap on cloth." And "the action of
friezing cloth" is called cottoning.

The word "cotton" is apparently derived from the Arabic "qutn, qutun"; in
Spanish Arabic, "qoton"; in Old Spanish, "coton"; in Portuguese, "cotao"; in
Italian, "cotone"; in archaic French and Provencal, "coton"; and in Middle
English, "coton" or "cotoun". Given the apparent southern source (from India
via Arabic traders) for cotton fabrics, it seems logical <G> that they would
be used mostly in the southern part of Europe. But in the rainy, cold
northern areas, I know that *I* would want a good wool outer garment for
comfort's sake. Wet cotton cloth is clammy <brrrrr....!>.



Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:20:23 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wagon Train in the Foothills near Placerville/Sacramento
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    I know someone was talking about this a while back.  Perhaps Mr.
Rickman, or Ms. Jurancich?  In any case--whoever you may be--I would be
grateful if you would please contact me [[if you have the contact info. for
the people who run the event]. My best friend's 11 year old is studying the
Westward movement and really, really would like to go on this trip, if at
all possible, so I thought I'd see what I could find out on her and her
mother's behalves.  Thank you very much.
Carol Cannon

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Subject: H-COST: silk manufacture
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net

I have a request from someone in the Calabria region of Italy (toe of boot)
concerning the manufacturing of silk in southern Italy.  He's specifically
interested in how the silk was spun, the types of looms used and the type of
designs used in Byzantine silk production.  He has already gotten information
from www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Labyrinth/2398/trade/silk.html and
Byzantine Silk Weaving:AD 400 to 1200 by Anna Muthesius.  Any other
recommendations for source material?  I appreciate the help.  I have the CIBA
review on Byzantine silk coming, but it hasn't arrived yet.  

Lyn Gillespie

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-Poster: Merlyncc@aol.com

In a message dated 5/20/99 6:10:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:

> It's very disconcerting when you make a cote-hardie that is 
>  practically a sculpture in the way it accomodates 3D forms, and then
>  put it on a hanger and bleah! 


I've enjoyed reading about the beautiful cote-hardies you've been making and 
wearing.  Are you cutting them on straight grain or bias to get the beautiful 
drape?  I've made them, but not with the luxurious draping.  My problem may 
have been with fabric since I didn't use linen or wool.

Priscilla Schmitz

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 13:44:25 -0700
From: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>
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-Poster: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>

Hello
After I read David's post about Jupons, it reminded me of the connection 
between actons and cotton.

I went and looked up "Acton" in the Oxford English Dictionary and found
"Auqueton - Old French 12th C. Later 15/16th C - Hacqueton, Hacton - 
cotton wool, padding, whence a padded and quilted jacket.  Spanish, 
Alcaton, Algodon - cotton, bombast.  Arab - Qutunal, qutn - the cotton.  
Acton is the lineal descent of the Middle English forms."  The earliest 
quote given is 1300 "withouten cotoned aketoun, oither plate, oither 
gaumbisoun".  Also, Chaucer, 1386, Sir Thopas. "And next his shirt an 
aketoun, And over that an haberjoun."

So, I looked up -
"Gambeson.  Probably from the Old Teut wanba meaning belly.  A protection 
for the trunk and thighs, leather or thick cloth, sometimes padded."

And while I was at it, I looked up -
"Hauberk.  Old English Halsbeorg from Old Norse hals - neck and bergen - 
to cover, protect. - A piece of defensive armour originally for the 
defence of the neck and shoulders but 12/13C developed into a long coat 
of mail."

I also looked up -
"Jupe.  From the Arab jubbah, jibbah with derivative forms of - Gipel, 
Gipon, Gippo and Jupon - a loose jacket, kirtle or tunic worn by men."
"Jupon.  Old French - Juppon, Gip(p)on - a close fitting tunic or doublet 
esp. worn under the hauberk, sometimes of thick stuff and padded, later, 
a sleeveless surcoat worn outside the armour of rich material and 
embellished with arms."  I couldn't find any references to Polish, 
Russian or Ukranian but, I does sound as if the words come from the same 
root.

I couldn't find any reference to cotton wool being anything other than 
raw, un-spun cotton.


Viv Watkins.

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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines. 
I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
info!!

Kat
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Well, if I had the chance for a good condition singer serger for $200, I'd
jump at it... I have seen them as high as $800 around here.

Sarah



>I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines.
>I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
>anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
>department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
>info!!
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 5/21/99 9:29:07 AM Central Daylight Time, kdyer@home.com 
writes:

<< 
 I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines. 
 I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
 anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
 department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
 info!!
  >>

I know last year this was discussed on another list.  I can't remember all 
the reasons but they said buyer beware.  Is this one of the traveling sales?  
If so----Part was if something goes wrong the company is gone and hard to 
find.  
Kelly Albrecht
m311@aol.com
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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv@transarc.com>

M311@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: M311@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 5/21/99 9:29:07 AM Central Daylight Time, kdyer@home.com
> writes:
> 
> <<
>  I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines.
>  I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
>  anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
>  department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
>  info!!
>   >>
> 
> I know last year this was discussed on another list.  I can't remember all
> the reasons but they said buyer beware.  Is this one of the traveling sales?
> If so----Part was if something goes wrong the company is gone and hard to
> find.
> Kelly Albrecht
> m311@aol.com

I have also received this warning. These sales have come to my area
before and I have heard that the machines tend to be of poor quality and
it's not easy to return them.

-- 
Megan Irvine <mirv@transarc.com>
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:48:40 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

As a former sewing machine dealer, who sews and sergers for hours every
day, take my word on this:
DO NOT BUY A SINGER.
You will regret it every time. They are not the company they used to be.
Unless you buy a 50 year old, black cast iron Singer, don't waste your money.
A serger is a great investment IF you sew on knits or need to neaten a lot
of raw edges, or roll hem a lot of tablecloths. You wouldn't use it for
sewing clothing from wovens. If you are primarily a quilter, you don't need
the serger for that either.
Any machine advertised to sew and serge will do NEITHER of those well.
If you want a serger, any brand will do. Just be sure to get 3/4 thread
capability and differential feed. Do not pay extra for fancy threading
features.
If you want a better ewing machine than you have, look at Bernina or
Janome. Even a used Bernina will be worlds better than any Singer.

Kim



At 09:28 AM 5/21/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines. 
>I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
>anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
>department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
>info!!
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 13:28:01 -0500
From: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>
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-Poster: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>

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What would be a good price fof a new or used Serger.

J,K,S&A Baird wrote:

> -Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
>
> As a former sewing machine dealer, who sews and sergers for hours every
> day, take my word on this:
> DO NOT BUY A SINGER.
> You will regret it every time. They are not the company they used to be.
> Unless you buy a 50 year old, black cast iron Singer, don't waste your money.
> A serger is a great investment IF you sew on knits or need to neaten a lot
> of raw edges, or roll hem a lot of tablecloths. You wouldn't use it for
> sewing clothing from wovens. If you are primarily a quilter, you don't need
> the serger for that either.
> Any machine advertised to sew and serge will do NEITHER of those well.
> If you want a serger, any brand will do. Just be sure to get 3/4 thread
> capability and differential feed. Do not pay extra for fancy threading
> features.
> If you want a better ewing machine than you have, look at Bernina or
> Janome. Even a used Bernina will be worlds better than any Singer.
>
> Kim
>
> At 09:28 AM 5/21/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> >
> >I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines.
> >I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
> >anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
> >department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
> >info!!
> >
> >Kat
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

Hello,

Just a word of thanks to Viv Watkins for her diligent research into the 
origins and meanings of the words acton, gambeson, hauberk and, most 
especially,  jupon ("Jupe.  From the Arab jubbah, jibbah with derivative forms 
of - Gipel, Gipon, Gippo and Jupon - a loose jacket, kirtle or tunic worn by 
men.""Jupon.  Old French - Juppon, Gip(p)on - a close fitting tunic or doublet 
esp. worn under the hauberk, sometimes of thick stuff and padded, later, a 
sleeveless surcoat worn outside the armour of rich material and embellished 
with arms"). I felt certain there must be a connection between the Italian, 
French and English words, but I didn't think that the connection might be 
Arabic. Without access to, nor the linguistic skills to take advantage of, the 
Polish, Ukranian and Russian equivilents of the OED, I think I may still feel 
fairly secure about the connection between zupan and zipun with jupon. But the 
connection, thanks to Viv, seems to be through the Middle East, perhaps, 
rather than Central Europe. What fascinating things language and material 
culture are - at least to those of us who have discovered them. To everyone 
else this must seem like very small beer. Thanks Viv.

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 13:49:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 14:50:56 -0400
From: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
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-Poster: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>

Hi Kat & List-

I agree that you should probably just get a plain serger rather than a machine
that does both sew & serge. In my mind that price is too low for anything that
overlocks. But sergers *are* very useful, not just for sewing knits & stretchy
material-I love mine, use it to finish the edges on everything. I have a Juki-MO
634DEV that I paid like, $500 maybe 4-5 years ago and I've been very happy w/it.
It's a 4-thread overlock but I usually just use 3 threads. By the way this is
*not* a plug, I'm not with Juki or anything.

-Lisa

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 14:29:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 14:31:20 -0500
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: sergers
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Here's a condensed version of what I have learned about sergers in my time
as a dealer and sewer/serger:

ALL sergers are made by just a few factories in Japan and China--possibly
some other oriental countries as well. Sewing machine manufacturers, such
as Janome, Bernina, White, Singer, Pfaff--they all have their brand name
sergers manufactured to their own specifications, but they don't make them
themselves.

So, brand doesn't make much difference, except that it's good to buy from a
dealer where you can get lessons and support. All brands come in various
price levels, cost based partly on quality of construction and partly on
"convenience"  features, known to dealers as "bells and whistles."

You don' t NEED the bells and whistles to have a good, usable serger. You
can pay extra for them if you want, but the serger doesn't sew any better
because of features like
	   needle stop down
	   swing out presser foot
	   automatic tension settings (don't believe it--you still have to know
how to adjust the tensions)
	   automatic threading of any sort--this plays on your fear of threading a
serger. They're not that bad 		anymore--just the earliest ones for the home
sewer were difficult to thread.

What you do need is 3/4 thread capability and differential feed.

Prices are going to vary quite a bit. It will pay to wait for some kind of
sale. If a good serger is going to be deleted from the line--that is, not
made anymore--you can find a close-out price of up to half off. Dealers or
individuals may also sell used models. As long as they have the features
you need, they can be a good deal. If you're unsure, it helps to get advice
from a friend who knows sergers.

The next question will be--what about the cover stitch?  If you look at the
hem on some knit wear, you will see a double line of topstitching.
Underneath, the threads go back and forth between the two lines of
stitches. This is done by a specialty serger. Regular sergers do not make
this type of seam.

If you really need the cover stitch, you can get a machine that converts
between regular serging and the cover stitch (they take from 20 minutes to
5 minutes to convert) or you can buy an extra serger that does only the
cover and chain stitches.

I opted for the separate cover/chain machine. I don't find I use it nearly
as often as the regular serger, but I think it was worth it, because I got
a real deal on the price.

My regular serger is a 2/3/4/5 thread machine. This can do a chain stitch
seam and a raw edge overcast at the same time. The only time I use the 5
thread capability is sewing seams on woven fabrics. Look inside your Eddie
Bauer khakis and you will see what I mean.

Don't buy a 5-thread machine unless you are already comfortable with
serging and threading.

So, my personal recommendation--look for Bernette or Juki, new or used.
Other brands may also be good.

Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 14:31:11 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sergers
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

Okay, you seem to know a lot about sergers... I know next to nothing, so
help me, please.  First, what is the number of threads?  How does it use
them?  I mean, so places sell 2 thread ones, etc, etc...

Also, I have seen the really inexpensive 'tiny' sergers... are these any
good to see if you want to spend the money on a 'good' one, or are they
pretty much useless?  I have been looking into sergers, since I make
costuming for a large number of people (right now I zig-zag edge
everything... what a pain!), and it may be useful.  But I don't want to
invest a large amount of money in a machine I find out I either a.) can't
use or b.) just hate to use... so, I was thinking of buying one of the
really cheap ones and trying it out... if I got into it, then spending the
money.  What do you think?

Sarah

PS.  Sorry if that was a bit disjointed writing... I'm trying to juggle work
and e-mail. ;-)

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Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Re: [antiquecollectors] Digest Number 35
Date: Fri, 21 May 99 16:19:44 -0000
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-Poster: margo king <mkings@earthlink.net>

Subject:     Re: [antiquecollectors] Digest Number 35
Sent:        5/21/19 1:43 AM
Received:    5/21/99 2:12 PM
From:        Sandie Bjornson, foremothers@webtv.net
Reply-To:    Antique Mail List, antiquecollectors@onelist.com
To:          Antique Mail List, antiquecollectors@onelist.com

Dear H Costume list - Thought some of you might be interested in the 
following email that I 
received-----

Hi list, anyone out there know of someone interested in buying my
collection of handmade vintage hankies and linens and lace? Lots of
tatting, etc.....also have a collection of Clinton campaign memorbillia
that i would like to sell...any help?
Sandie 
Foremother Earth

peace, love and hempiness!


------------------------------------------------------------------------
With more than 17 million e-mails exchanged daily...
http://www.onelist.com
...ONElist is THE place where the world talks!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 16:02:54 1999
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

(Kim wrote)

> DO NOT BUY A SINGER. <snip>
> Unless you buy a 50 year old, black cast iron Singer, don't waste
> your money.

Actually you're o.k. with a 403 (tan w/cream top) - zigzag, cams
available for "fancy" stitches.  We're talking $15 at a thrift shop plus
around $45 worth of tune-up/checkout, including a footpedal.  Usual
caveat: try before you buy!!  This may be The Exception to the rule.  In
all other matters I defer to Kim.

With due respect for Kim's experience!
Heather
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 16:25:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:33:17 -0500
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-Poster: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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My grand mother just gave me a sowing machine Brand "General" its made
in Japan it is made of black cast iron its real heavy. it has a dial
adjustment in the arm above the needle that goes from 1 to 6. and a
lever in the rear that flips from R to-0 than to f can anyone tell me
anything about this sowing machine.

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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

Caveat/caveat: The Singer Fashion Mate, c.1976 (which is what I had)
never worked properly - cams and all. The tension was always out of
whack, even after professional tuning.

On the other hand, my Montgomery Ward, same vintage, cams and all, works
very well, even with the abuse I heap on it.

-betsy

lynnx@mc.net wrote:
> 
> Actually you're o.k. with a 403 (tan w/cream top) - zigzag, cams
> available for "fancy" stitches.  We're talking $15 at a thrift shop plus
> around $45 worth of tune-up/checkout, including a footpedal.  Usual
> caveat: try before you buy!!  This may be The Exception to the rule.  In
> all other matters I defer to Kim.
> 
> With due respect for Kim's experience!
> Heather

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Webmistress at large
************************************************************************
             betsy@hawkeswood.com or betsy@ability.net
       http://www.hawkeswood.com/, home of Hawkeswood Designs
     and http://www.Costume-Con.org/, home of Costume-ConNections
  (If you still have betsy@access.digex.net, change my address *NOW*!)
************************************************************************
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37456D9A.1E8812AE@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 15:07:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

Watch what model and so on they are selling.  The prices are valid, but the
promotions are fake.  My family used to sell sewing machines.  The
manufacturers all do this kind of thing in an attempt to get more sales, but
there is no "Education Department", etc.  They frequently try bate and
switch tactics and so on.  So, it is certainly worth a look, but be
carefull.

> I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines.
> I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
> anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
> department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
> info!!
>
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: sergers
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> Also, I have seen the really inexpensive 'tiny' sergers... are these any
> good to see if you want to spend the money on a 'good' one, or are they
> pretty much useless?  I have been looking into sergers, since I make
> costuming for a large number of people (right now I zig-zag edge
> everything... what a pain!), and it may be useful.  But I don't want to
> invest a large amount of money in a machine I find out I either a.) can't
> use or b.) just hate to use... so, I was thinking of buying one of the
> really cheap ones and trying it out... if I got into it, then spending the
> money.  What do you think?

Well, this isn't addressed to me, but I'll through in my 2 cetns worth,
anyway...

If you buy a really cheep one, you'll probably be unhappy.  They don't tend
to hold up or preform well.  That doesn't mean you need to get an expensive
one, but getting a good, name brand machine is your best bet.  Go around to
various shops and try them out.  Have the sales person show you waht they'll
do and then ask to try it.  Find one you are comfortable with.

If you're like my mother or most of the people she sold them to, you'll find
that you use it a lot more than your regular sewing machine once you get the
hang up it.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 18:15:42 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: 1200s trim and the southern Italians.
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:28:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

There was a terrific trade in silk from Turkey to Italy at
this time.  Turkey was Christian then, and there were
hundreds if not thousands of small factories throughout the
western end of Turkey.  In 1453, when the Ottomans conquered
Turkey, silk manufacture in Turkey diminished, due to
general turmoil in the country.  At this time, the center of
manufacture of the best silks on the Mediterranean shifted
to Italy, although silk was made in Italy earlier.  After
the Ottomans, silk manufacture in Turkey consolidated in
Bursa, Turkey, and was generated primarily for the court and
harem in Istanbul.  It was then not exported to the same
degree, not only because production and consumption
diminished under the Ottomans, but because the Italian
manufactures surpassed them in quality.  I know nothing
about fabric manufacture or imports in Sicily specifically
at this time, but what was available anywhere in the
Mediterranean must have found itself there, depending on
local tastes.  Not quotable for scholarly purposes, but it
is an interest of mine, and I've accumulated a little
general knowledge of it, primarily from my travels in Turkey
and visit to the 16th or waist 16th century Silk Market in
Bursa.  Silks from China and silk manufacturing centers
along the Silk Road brought more exotic silks through Turkey
for trade to Italy too.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Karalee Larsen Pugmire
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 5:34 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: 1200s trim and the southern italians.



-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>


>
>I have other books by Mazzaoui, but not the one you
mention. I would be
>interested to learn what she says about the cotton trade. I
note you
>mentioned men's clothing in particular, so I wonder what
specific garments
>cotton was used for -- and where. Italian clothing is quite
different from
>Northern and Western European clothing, in many regards
(cut, color,
>silhouette). I suspect that availability/preference for
different types of
>cloth contributes to some of that difference.

Dear Robin,

I think I missunderstood you. Forgive me. I am currently
researching 13th
century southern italian garb. It's interesting because the
medieval
Kingdom of Sicily reached it's pinicle during this century
and then crashed
and split, Sicilian Vespers being in the middle of the
century which split
the kingdom in to two. Many of the masters who taught the
great masters who
began the Enlightenment appearently were refugees who fled
the choas and
went north to Emperial friendly cities in the north. What
descriptions I
have of Frederick II of Sicily say that he was more like an
Eastern prince
than a christian. He bathed every day (which was enough to
be weird). His
queens lived and died in harems.

The history, the heat of being only a few hundred miles from
the Sahara,
and the fact that christians rubbed shoulders with both
Arabs (who still
practiced Islam) and Jews and were tolerant of their
religions though could
not convert creates a fasinating dynamic. Fashion would have
been part of
that dynamic. As far as I can tell the people of Frederick's
court would
have worn home grown silk at court and perhaps home grown
(and northern
italian produced) cotton. I have no solid evidence of this
since no one
cares about southern italy or her history even to this day
except a few of
us. The research is very cutting edge (or perhaps not even
tried). The
authors who center their work on this region say that the
biggest
difficulties they have is the fact that to study southern
Italy one must
know Greek, Latin, and Arabic to say nothing of medieval
Pugliese, medieval
Napolitese, medieval Siciliano and medieval Calibrese. They
say there
aren't any currently publishing who know all three to an
exceptable level.

Given these problems and conditions what little I've learned
is tantilizing
but incomplete. I have one bust from the Castel del Monte
which looks as
though she might be wearing a cyclas. I've lived in Southern
italy and I
can't imagine that she's wearing wool. I found a site with
pictures of some
mosics from a cathedral in Monreale Sicily but they are a
hundred years
earlier. The people in the pictures might be wearing silk
but I'm not sure.

Isn't there anyone out there who can tell me a little more
about 13th
century Italian clothing or might know where I can get
references to look
for Southern Italian garb? The histroy makes me wonder if
their fashion was
unique or if each ethnic group had its own garb and as they
had their own
religion. Can anyone help?


Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari



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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 21 May 1999 Merlyncc@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Merlyncc@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 5/20/99 6:10:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:
> 
> > It's very disconcerting when you make a cote-hardie that is 
> >  practically a sculpture in the way it accomodates 3D forms, and then
> >  put it on a hanger and bleah! 
> 
> 
> I've enjoyed reading about the beautiful cote-hardies you've been making and 
> wearing.  Are you cutting them on straight grain or bias to get the beautiful 
> drape?  I've made them, but not with the luxurious draping.  My problem may 
> have been with fabric since I didn't use linen or wool.
> 
Could be. My favourite is made of a heavy linen-cotton blend and the skirt
is cut on the bias. Drapes like a dream.I've made a couple in cotton that 
don't work quite so well. I've never tried wool, it's too expensive
here for me to buy enough, but I have some silk that may be turned into
one.

> 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 18:31:03 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sergers
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Sarah--
If you are doing a lot of costuming, you definitely need a serger. It sews
twice as fast as your regular machine, and does a better job of finishing
edges.
I'm not sure what you mean by "tiny." My serger is small--smaller than my
sewing machine. The larger ones don't have any more sewing room, they are
just taller and a little wider to accomodate the bells and whistles.
A serger uses one or two needles and one or two loopers. The loopers are
underneath, in place of the bobbin on your regular machine.
For finishing raw edges, you would use 3 threads--1 needle and 2 loopers.
You could use either needle, the left or the right. I usually use the left
needle because it gives me a wider covered edge.
For sewing actual seams in knits, I use 4 threads--2 needles and 2 loopers.
You also use 3 threads for a rolled hem and a lettuce edge.
A small, inexpensive machine is fine. But if a machine is too cheap, there
must be something wrong with it--expect to pay $400 or more US for a decent
serger.
There are many books on serging, but the most helpful I have seen is from
Threads magazine. I believe it's called Serging Fine Fabrics. Hamilton
books has it for $4.95, which is a very good deal.

Go out and look. Try them out and check prices. If you find one you have a
question about, let me know and I will see if I can help.

Kim

At 03:42 PM 5/21/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
>
>Okay, you seem to know a lot about sergers... I know next to nothing, so
>help me, please.  First, what is the number of threads?  How does it use
>them?  I mean, so places sell 2 thread ones, etc, etc...
>
>Also, I have seen the really inexpensive 'tiny' sergers... are these any
>good to see if you want to spend the money on a 'good' one, or are they
>pretty much useless?  I have been looking into sergers, since I make
>costuming for a large number of people (right now I zig-zag edge
>everything... what a pain!), and it may be useful.  But I don't want to
>invest a large amount of money in a machine I find out I either a.) can't
>use or b.) just hate to use... so, I was thinking of buying one of the
>really cheap ones and trying it out... if I got into it, then spending the
>money.  What do you think?
>
>Sarah
>
>PS.  Sorry if that was a bit disjointed writing... I'm trying to juggle work
>and e-mail. ;-)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 18:41:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:44:17 -0400
From: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
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-Poster: "Deborah-Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>

> >Also, I have seen the really inexpensive 'tiny' sergers... are these any
> >good to see if you want to spend the money on a 'good' one, or are they
> >pretty much useless?

I think those tiny, little sergers are for traveling, perhaps? I don't know-I
have only seen them in the store & have never really used one, but I really don't
think those things could possibly compare to a good overlock machine that can
serge through denim. Seriously, if you do alot of sewing it will be to your
benefit to invest in a quality serger-you will not regret it. And they really
aren't all that difficult to thread or use, especially if you already know how to
sew pretty well. Really! Trust me!

-Lisa R.


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Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost Machine Question
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

What does it sow?
Beans or corn?
Sorry about that but I ccouldn't help it!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks

----------
>From: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>
>To: "h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: H-Cost Machine Question
>Date: Fri, May 21, 1999, 2:33 PM
>

>My grand mother just gave me a sowing machine Brand "General" its made
>in Japan it is made of black cast iron its real heavy. it has a dial
>adjustment in the arm above the needle that goes from 1 to 6. and a
>lever in the rear that flips from R to-0 than to f can anyone tell me
>anything about this sowing machine.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 19:10:10 1999
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-Poster: DC <uboru@erols.com>

One major comment on Star Wars:

I want Queen Amidala's gowns in my size NOW!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 19:23:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>



>What would be a good price fof a new or used Serger.
>

I bought one at Sears last year for about $300 on sale (the better one of
the two models they had at the time) and it works for me.  It does not have
the "cover stitch" the $1000 machines may have, but, then again, I don't sew
much knit fabric anyway, so could not justify the extraordinary difference
in price for a few T shirts

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 19:25:14 1999
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-Poster: Maria Fowler <vyper@san.rr.com>

This is off-topic, but I don't know what to do.  My toddler was wearing a white
dress with winnie the pooh on it and spilled apple cidar all down the front.  When
I got home, I immediately washed it, the stains are still there.  Then I tried
soaking it several times in all fabric bleach, again the stains remained.  Is
there something that may get this out.  Or, I thought of a weird idea, to get some
cidar and put the dress in it and see if it would all come out that light brown
colour.

Any suggestions?

Maria

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 20:18:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 20:11:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post (fwd)
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


The story sounded familliar, so I asked my resident expert: Mom.

Emma

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:20:52 -0400
From: Patricia Voichahoske Lehman <pvl@umich.edu>
To: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post (fwd)

Oh, this is a scam that's been around since I was in high school, and
really long before that, I'm sure.  It's a bait and switch -- used to be
only White sewing machines.  They say they were used by a high school home
ec class, and then when you show up, they show you a really ratty machine
and persuade you that for only $50 or $100 or $300 more you can get this
really spiffy new machine... or reconditioned, or whatever.  

Come to think of it, I remember my Sincere History of Sewing machines book
telling about Singer salesmen using a similar bait and switch in the thirties.

It's not an urban legend, it's a persistent and effective scam.

Mom

At 02:48 PM 5/21/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>never mind about the urban legend/hoax thing, I found the page but
>couldn't find the scam I was looking for.  This is the post I was
>wondering about.  I remember something about a sales like this one, I just
>don't remember what I remember.  They were bad, I know that.
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:28:42 -0500
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "Costumers@onelist.com" <Costumers@onelist.com>,
>    "h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
>
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>I just got a flyer about a public sale of Singer Sew & Serge machines. 
>I have a White Jeans machine that I presently use and no serger.  Does
>anyone else have one of these (apparently overstock from their education
>department) and what do you think?  The add price is $199.  TIA for any
>info!!
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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-Poster: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>

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Good question. I hope it sows fabric.

R.L. Shep wrote:

> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>
>
> What does it sow?
> Beans or corn?
> Sorry about that but I ccouldn't help it!
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks
>
> ----------
> >From: Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>
> >To: "h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> >Subject: H-COST: H-Cost Machine Question
> >Date: Fri, May 21, 1999, 2:33 PM
> >
>
> >My grand mother just gave me a sowing machine Brand "General" its made
> >in Japan it is made of black cast iron its real heavy. it has a dial
> >adjustment in the arm above the needle that goes from 1 to 6. and a
> >lever in the rear that flips from R to-0 than to f can anyone tell me
> >anything about this sowing machine.
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

> I have seen the really inexpensive 'tiny' sergers... are these any
> good to see if you want to spend the money on a 'good' one, or are they
> pretty much useless? 

Don't know about the tiny sergers but the tiny straight stitch machine
isn't worth the room it'd take up in the dumpster.  I'd try to make the
store guys let you try one out before you buy.  My guess is:  Save your
pennies, wait for a used trade-in from a reputable dealer, and get a $15
junker from a thrift shop (test first!) and use the zigzag function to
bind frizzy seams.

Heather
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:20:22 -0700
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Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost Machine Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:27 PM 5/21/99, Eric Davidson <excel@bscn.com>wrote:  Good question. I
hope it sows fabric.
     Depending upon which fabrics and of what quality it may produce, you
may wish to look into finding it a mate and seeing if viable offspring can
be had of them... :-)  After all, I'm sure many of us would like one of
those... cjc   [who has the Friday pm sillies, and really does know the
difference between sewing and sowing, both of which are a lot of work, but
worth the results, done well]
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:22:01 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/21/99 8:14:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, uboru@erols.com 
writes:

<< I want Queen Amidala's gowns in my size NOW! >>

Well...that black outfit with the black feathers on her head was the only 
memorable thing in that totally forgetable bore.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 21 22:26:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:34:08 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Stained dress
References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.990326123936.4241D-100000@bigred.unl.edu> <36FBF51E.7710@geocities.com> <3745FC88.8ED52052@san.rr.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

A woman who owns a children's consignment shop near here suggests using
the following and says that it can sit on the stain for up to 7 days:

1/2 non-chlorine bleach
1/2 stain removing gel

I've used it on a lot of stains with good success...which reminds me, I
need to go pick up some more non-chlorine bleach! <grin>

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 05:37:56 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Probably too late for this stain, since it is set, but the classic remedy for 
fruit stains is to stretch the fabric tight (in an embroidery hoop if 
possible) and pour boiling water from a height.  It usually works well.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 16:09:14 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wagon Train in the Foothills near Placerville/Sacramento
Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:16:51 GMT
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-Poster: margo@directcon.net

Hi, I was the one who mentioned Wagon Train.  i'm having hardware problems and 
am reading mail at my husband's office, so it may take me a day or two to get 
back to you with information, but I will do so ASAP.

Margo
Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 16:37:35 1999
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From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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Subject: H-COST: Source for hairpieces
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

I recently found a new, on-line source for hairpieces:

http://www.funwigs.com/

Some of their hair goods are suitable for historic costuming.  Their
prices are pretty good and their service is fast.  The one I just
ordered arrived on my doorstep three days after I mailed the order.
They do not have a storefront, but their web site has good pictures and
they are very helpful about answering questions.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 17:36:24 1999
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 15:44:13 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wagon Train in the Foothills near
  Placerville/Sacramento
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:16 PM 5/22/99 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: margo@directcon.net
>
>Hi, I was the one who mentioned Wagon Train.  i'm having hardware problems
and 
>am reading mail at my husband's office, so it may take me a day or two to
get 
>back to you with information, but I will do so ASAP.
>
>Margo
>Anderson
         I just got a note back from a friend I sent a long letter to
saying there was no text in the msg.  Good luck w. your hardware problems.
I hope they resolve easily and as permanently as possible... my thanks to
you, Margo...Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 17:41:49 1999
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 18:49:08 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Watch guard
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

A friend is reading some Dckens and asked me some questions about terms. Most 
I could clear up for her but..... what is a watch guard? She says it's worn 
at the neck. I don't know if it's on a man or woman.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 18:11:48 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 06:49 PM 05/22/1999 EDT, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>A friend is reading some Dckens and asked me some questions about terms. Most 
>I could clear up for her but..... what is a watch guard? She says it's worn 
>at the neck. I don't know if it's on a man or woman.

"Watch guard--a chain or ribbon attached to a watch to keep it from
disappearing."

p. 389, _What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew_, by Daniel Pool.
Simon & Schuster, 1993(hardback edition).

In the 19th C., women often wore their watches on chains or ribbons around
the neck and long enough to put the watch in a small watch pocket, or fob*,
at the waist. 
*"fob-- a watch fob was a little pocket in the pants in which to keep a
watch. When David Copperfield first meets his great-aunt Betsey Trotwood's
friend Mr. Dick, the latter 'had his watch in his fob, and his money in his
pockets.'"
p. 309, ibid.



Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 18:19:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:29:56 +0000
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: some more neat books for sale
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

Hi all,
I've put some more books on e-bay a few of them are:

Visual History of Costume by Ribeiro
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104295529

Great Age of Holland 1600-1660 by van Thienen
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=106707606

Historic Costume for the Stage by Barton
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107516665

Elizabethan Pageantry by Morse
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107519509

Lois


--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 19:12:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:19:54 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1200s trim
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Hello.

<<  I was under the impression (please read 
 this as me being humble, not as me trying to say that I am right!) that we 
 had little or no extant clothing from the 1200s, and that most of our 
 surviving artwork from this time is in the form of illuminations, so that we 
 don't know whether people used trim on their clothing.  >>

I do know of many examples of brocaded tabletwoven bands from this time.

Nancy/Ingvild (who just flew back from 3 weeks in Great Britain and is 
pooped!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 20:26:46 1999
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From: Maria Fowler <vyper@san.rr.com>
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-Poster: Maria Fowler <vyper@san.rr.com>

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.  I will try them.  The stain seems to be
lightening some more.  And I will keep these hints in mind for the future.  I
have always had luck with her clothes removing stains, until this.

Maria

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 20:45:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Watch guard
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/22/99 7:20:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
joanj@quiknet.com writes:

<< 
 "Watch guard--a chain or ribbon attached to a watch to keep it from
 disappearing."
 
 p. 389, _What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew_, by Daniel Pool.
 Simon & Schuster, 1993(hardback edition).
 
 In the 19th C., women often wore their watches on chains or ribbons around
 the neck and long enough to put the watch in a small watch pocket, or fob*,
 at the waist. 
 *"fob-- a watch fob was a little pocket in the pants in which to keep a
 watch. When David Copperfield first meets his great-aunt Betsey Trotwood's
 friend Mr. Dick, the latter 'had his watch in his fob, and his money in his
 pockets.'"
 p. 309, ibid.
 
 
 
 Joan Jurancich
 Sacramento, CA
 joanj@quiknet.com
 
   >>
Thank you. This is what I thought.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 21:53:33 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Oh, Pooh! and machines
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

Now I'm not about to argue with Mom (anyone's!  That title outranks
5-star anything, they've earned it)  but a friend of mine actually got a
(new) $199 "school model" machine in a similar sounding deal.  

***However***!  I think this is a different machine, I don't think it
does "sergery".  The Big Deal with the "school models" is that you can
sew heavy stuff like leather with them, more so than with the regular
home machines.  They're probably built to take the beating a bunch of
asynaptic  uninterested school-age kids would deal out.  In this case,
the store says a local school had them ordered and then backed out,
sticking the store with all these machines (still *new* in the boxes).

However, take Mom's advice, and *watch your back*!  This is a scene
where *patience pays*; if you watch, wait, and research long enough,
you'll find your machine at your price.  Give it time!

Good luck in your search,
Heather (still gloating about that killer deal a friend gave me on a
pristine 4-thread Singer trade-in)

> Oh, this is a scam that's been around since I was in high school, and
> really long before that, I'm sure.  It's a bait and switch -- used to be
> only White sewing machines.  They say they were used by a high school 
> home ec class, and then when you show up, they show you a really ratty
> machine and persuade you that for only $50 or $100 or $300 more you can > get this really spiffy new machine... or reconditioned, or whatever.  
> 
> Come to think of it, I remember my Sincere History of Sewing machines > book telling about Singer salesmen using a similar bait and switch in > the thirties.
> It's not an urban legend, it's a persistent and effective scam.
> 
> Mom


Keep it!! Even if you can't figure out how to use it, it sounds like a
potential collectible.  Check out books on antiques, there may be one on
just sewing machines or household gadgets (may take a lot of research)
for possible antique-market price.  If it isn't a hot item, the fact
that it's solid metal sounds like you have at least a reliable backup
machine.

The 1 to 6 sounds like a possible tension adjustment, or *maybe* stitch
length.  R-0-F may mean reverse, "neutral"(??), forward.

> >My grand mother just gave me a sowing machine Brand "General" its made
> >in Japan it is made of black cast iron its real heavy. it has a dial
> >adjustment in the arm above the needle that goes from 1 to 6. and a
> >lever in the rear that flips from R to-0 than to f can anyone tell me
> >anything about this sowing machine.
> >

This might be a little more extreme than you want to (or can) go, but
maybe you could stretch the Winnie section out on a big hoop or frame,
then go over the picture (carefully) with hot wax and then use Dylon in
a dark color on the dress for a "batik" effect?  Otherwise, coffee or
tea dyeing might be possibilities.  (Who wants a kid to wear white
anyhow?  Even for adults, white's a stain magnet!)

Heather
> 
> This is off-topic, but I don't know what to do.  My toddler was wearing > a white
> dress with winnie the pooh on it and spilled apple cidar all down the > front.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 22:28:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Oh, Pooh! and machines
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> ***However***!  I think this is a different machine, I don't think it
> does "sergery".  The Big Deal with the "school models" is that you can
> sew heavy stuff like leather with them, more so than with the regular
> home machines.  They're probably built to take the beating a bunch of
> asynaptic  uninterested school-age kids would deal out.  In this case,
> the store says a local school had them ordered and then backed out,
> sticking the store with all these machines (still *new* in the boxes).

The promotional materials are sent satraight from teh distrubutor in
photo-ready format.  All the store does is insert their name and so on and
send it to the printer.  No school ever ordered the machines.

Might still be a decent machine, but the adds are BS.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 22 23:28:59 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Cider stain
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>This is off-topic, but I don't know what to do.  My toddler was wearing a
white
>dress with winnie the pooh on it and spilled apple cidar all down the
front.  When
>I got home, I immediately washed it, the stains are still there.  Then I
tried
>soaking it several times in all fabric bleach, again the stains remained.  Is
>there something that may get this out.  

Don't know if this will work, but there is a brand called "Carbona" that
makes about 15 different stain removers, for all different kinds of stains
(Fruit, blood, grass, ink, etc....)  I just saw a whole rack of them at our
local Hancock's today.  They're small bottles (about 4 oz.), so it's not
like you have to buy a huge amount just to try it.  Can't hurt.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 23 06:40:54 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Gifted Student
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

     I can relate to this situation! We didn't have a "gifted" program in 
my school (back then) but classes were in levels and I was in the top 
level classes. Sewing and then costuming was ok as a hobby (sewing was 
proper for a young lady to learn, after all), but not as a profession. 
And theater was right out! 

     So now I'm thinking about what someone like Penny can do to help. 
Unfortunately, home ec classes were not very challenging for me. Isn't 
that one of the points of gifted classes, to challenge the students so 
they aren't bored with school?

>The clincher is... her Dad highly opposes her working on the costume
>renderings.  He thinks this is beneath her intelligence.
>
>She said she hurries up and finishes her "gifted" classwork to where she
>can draw renderings in her spare time.
>
>She sneaks and spends her allowance on Tom Tierney paper doll books.

     It will be ultimately up to her how she deals with her parents. It 
sounds like it isn't going well! I remember my parents telling me many 
times that they wished I spent as much effort on my regular schoolwork as 
I did on my other interests. Your student will probably tell her parents 
about you and whatever assistance you offer. No escape from the "evil 
mentor" role! Is there a way to work costume & textiles into her other 
subjects? History should be easy - I did a presentation (in high school) 
on the changing silhouettes between the mid & late 19thC by drawing & 
erasing on the blackboard. I didn't think it was very elaborate, but the 
teacher was impressed. Is she reading plays and then drawing costumes for 
the characters? Math is used in figuring pleats, yardage, etc. Chemistry 
for dyes. The mechanics of spinning & weaving machinery is worth study - 
how about the jaquard loom as an early computer? This way she could stay 
in the realm of her interest & not see it as a conflict with her 
schoolwork.

     There is a lot of emphasis placed on costume design, but not on 
construction. Designers get the recognition & awards, and people involved 
with costume or fashion are expected to want to be designers. But what 
about the technical side? What is the use of designs without the skills 
of people to make them?

     Many people have replied that the gifted student should have an 
artistic persuit. It's sad that the father does not support this. On the 
other hand, it sounds like she needs a better balance between drawing the 
renderings and other schoolwork. It may be her rebellion against her 
parents.

     -Carol Kocian
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: H-COST: Flemish 16th century Costume
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Hey everyone,

As promised, the paper I gave on Flemish Dress at the Medieval Congress is
now online.  You can check it out at
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html

Enjoy,

Drea

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Star Wars
In-Reply-To: <e0d11f1d.24776ec9@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

At 10:22 PM 05/21/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 5/21/99 8:14:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, uboru@erols.com 
>writes:
>
><< I want Queen Amidala's gowns in my size NOW! >>
>
>Well...that black outfit with the black feathers on her head was the only 
>memorable thing in that totally forgetable bore.

Well, _I_ enjoyed it...  I got a good look at the red and gold dress on the
cover of a flyer in this Sunday's paper.  Very interesting.  Some of the
trim on the headdress used cotton lace dyed red, over a gold background,
for a very interesting effect.  It's the K-Mart flyer.  I didn't
particularly like the black feather headdress thingy.  Oh well, there's no
disputing matters of taste!

Some of the critics were sniping at Amidala's Kabuki-like makeup.  They
missed the point entirely -- it was the makeup that enabled her to put one
of her handmaid/bodyguards in her place and go off on her own to see what
the situation was really like.  Geesh.  Yes, the makeup wasn't very
becoming to Natalie Portman -- but it served its purpose.

Very interesting to see all the various influences on costume, etc. in the
movie.  That hairdo that Portman wore in the latter part -- where she's on
that raid on the palace, with her hair doubled over on back of her head --
is straight out of Geisha portraits.  How do you do that???

Guess I'm gonna have to make that kimono robe for my hubby one of these
days!  For those of you that are interested, there's a good book available
on making your own Japanese clothing -- how to take measurements so it'll
fit you properly.  Not hard, since all the pieces are rectangles anyway.  I
loaned the book to my sister, who made a beautiful robe for herself out of
some nice printed cotton, and I've made a few happi jackets and one
floor-length robe myself, based on the book.  None of these garments has
anything to do with Star Wars, but I've been promising to make my hubby a
kimono-type robe for several years now, so I might as well make one that
will do double duty :D

Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 23 20:31:21 1999
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From: DC <uboru@erols.com>
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-Poster: DC <uboru@erols.com>

Actually, some of the Queen's costumes smacked strongly of 
Mongol/Chinese influences. Now to start researching Mongol garb 
again.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 23 20:48:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: sewing machine scams
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

> From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
> No school ever ordered the machines.
> Might still be a decent machine, but the adds are BS.
Makes sense; would schools order the same machine and then back out,
repeatedly?
Have to get in touch with the friend of mine who got one and see how
she's doing with it.

Heather
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 23 22:01:33 1999
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From: Margo Glenn-Lewis <nomad@dcn.davis.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Star Wars
Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 20:19:46 -0700
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-Poster: Margo Glenn-Lewis <nomad@dcn.davis.ca.us>

Also some very Tibetan stuff - but my favorite hairstyle is right out of Mongolia.

Margo

-----Original Message-----
From:	DC [SMTP:uboru@erols.com]
Sent:	Sunday, May 23, 1999 2:40 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	Re: H-COST: Star Wars


-Poster: DC <uboru@erols.com>

Actually, some of the Queen's costumes smacked strongly of 
Mongol/Chinese influences. Now to start researching Mongol garb 
again.

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From Cheryl@sessionware.com  Mon May 24 00:00:42 1999
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From: Cheryl Melnick <Cheryl@sessionware.com>
Subject: FAN-tastic update!
Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 22:14:48 -0700
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Greetings!  This is an update of the International Fan Collector's Guild,
the resource for fan collector's world wide.

Please remember that all portions of the website are under international
copyright law.  No portion, text, code or images may be copied without
written permission.

Since the last time I updated the site, I was involved in an accident.  I am
finally off crutches and learning to walk again in a cast.  Thank you to
those persons who sent kind words of support during my recovery period.  I
am now better, and able to update the website again.

What's new?  More than you'd ever expect:

*	All pages of the website have been reformatted to download in 30
seconds or less
*	The International charity which receives the proceeds from the
bookstore is now online!
*	Bookstore-A new Book about Fans written by Tcherviakov! Which
international charity are the proceeds from the bookstore going to? Check
out the bookstore and see! 
*	Fan Museum new fans added to the almost all the sections-Germany,
France, England ,China , Japan  and World fans!
*	Preservation-what is recommended for home storage? What are the
different options available?
*	Fan Postcards-New category! Page 4, Page 5 have new fan postcards!
*	Fan Catalogs-new fan auction catalogs listed, with a special offer
only for members of the International Fan Collector's Guild!
*	Misc Books for Sale-new fan books listed!
*	International Society for Collectors of Hand-held Fans-new Club
listed!
*	Dealer section-new fan dealers listed!
*	Fans for sale-Many new fans for sale added to this section!
*	Free Stuff -A gorgeous new Fan Screen Saver, courtesy of Camelot
Enterprises!

There are many, many new items to still add to the website as I am trying to
get caught up!  If you would like to have your fan business, fans for sale
or resource added to the website, remember there is NO CHARGE and is
entirely free!
If you'd like to be taken off this announcement list, just drop me a line
and say "unsubscribe" in the Subject line of your email.  Please indicate
which mailing list you are unsubscribing, as I moderate multiple lists.

Have a great week!
Cheryl
_______________________________ 
Cheryl Melnick 
Webmistress 
International Fan Collector's Guild 
webmistress@hand-fan.org
* 408-559-7799 x 222 
http://www.hand-fan.org 

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 00:18:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 22:23:32 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #331
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>

*********
Mara said teasingly:
Guess I'm gonna have to make that kimono robe for my hubby one of these
days!  For those of you that are interested, there's a good book available
on making your own Japanese clothing -- how to take measurements so it'll
fit you properly.  Not hard, since all the pieces are rectangles anyway.  I
loaned the book to my sister, who made a beautiful robe for herself out of
some nice printed cotton, and I've made a few happi jackets and one
floor-length robe myself, based on the book.  None of these garments has
anything to do with Star Wars, but I've been promising to make my hubby a
kimono-type robe for several years now, so I might as well make one that
will do double duty :D

********

Okay, come clean, WHAT IS THE BOOK CALLED?  Yep, you brought it up, now you
have to divulge the data!  Or we'll fuss!

Larisa
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 01:19:59 1999
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From: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity 8725
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 06:27:46 GMT
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

Greetings,
	I've been trying to no avail to get this pattern in my size.  Even if I 
don't have it yet, I have a couple of questions about it.

1.  I did get a chance to take a quick look at the instruction sheet.  From 
what I saw, there are not separate front and side front pieces.  Bustline 
fullness is added by easing the underarm area of the front to the back at 
the side seam.  However, the photo of the made up gown (one in gold) clearly 
has a princess type seam.  Does the pattern indeed have a seam there or was 
that just an adjustment they did to make the model in the photo look better?

2.  I know the pattern is not historically accurate but I could almost swear 
that I read/saw an example of a gown (don't even remember what century) that 
extra width was added in a way not unlike the way this pattern does.  
However, the gore didn't "wrap" from the front to the back; there were 
separate pieces that were sewn to the bottom of the front and back panels.

             |     |      Sort of like triangular
            /       \     gores but only at the bottom
           /         \    to compensate for narrow
          /           \   fabric widths.
         /             \
        /               \
       /|               |\
      / |               | \
     /__|_______________|__\

Does this sound familiar to anyone or am I just imagining things?  It's 
vaguely like some of the patterns in Cut My Cote but I remember a gown, not 
a shift.

Tara



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 06:27:28 1999
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

f you're in the Midwest, we'll be having a workshop on beading fabrics
and one on making a duct tape dummy on June 13 at the Ramada in Rosemont
near O'Hare. Lots of other costume stuff too, including RennFaire and
science fiction! It will soon be posted on the website at
www.wwa.com/~duckon Don't forget an embroidery hoop and a sacrificial
t-shirt. There will be a costumer's party after the masquerade(costume
contest)
Carol Mitchell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 07:32:42 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:23:57 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Well, my bizarre and unwanted acting career goes well.

For those who came in late, I am registered with a casting agency and am
offered work on a regular basis. A mini-series I am working on at the
moment may be of interest to the list, Journey to the Centre of the Earth,
based upon the Jules Verne story and expanded.

Treat Williams plays the heroic professor leading the expedition after
presenting his case to the Boston Explorers' Club, shot at the Uniting
Church building in Collins Street, Melbourne, where else? Williams
describes his character as a combination of Robin Williams in Flubber and
Rambo, "Flambo".

On the journey, accompanied by his nephew and some pick-ups along the way,
he encounters Bryan Brown who led an earlier expedition and has settled in
an underground village of hunter-gatherers.

Costume-wise, the leads are in Victorian-era hiking clothes, mostly edging
towards earth colours. In his early scenes, Brown wears similar clothes
topped by a wonderful waistcoat made of fish skin, supposedly from some
lizard caught by the villagers. Later, Brown pulls on a large, tweed frock
coat that has been distressed.

The villagers are the costumes that will be of greatest interest, I think.
They remind me of both islander and Mayan. That is, somewhat Central
American but made of raffia and accessorised with leather pouches and
wooden, stone and foliage beading. All the villagers had their hair dyed
red which has us all wondering  -  the smearing of "clay" through the hair
and over the bodies makes it redundant! They are great looking costumes
but, I can assure you, bloody cold here in Melbourne's winter in the
massive fairground pavilion used as a studio for the set. They are also
very itchy!

The set is also fantastic, a full size walled village reminiscent of the
cliff face dwellings of  south-west Native Americans. Features include tar
pits, a forge, houses, rustic furniture and everything else you'd want to
make it believable.

Although I have seen little of the above-ground costuming to comment,
overall it is a great looking costume series and worth looking out for -
should screen late this year or early next.

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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@home.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 07:51:12 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@home.net>

So this is the continuation of the series? I remember this was a movie
special about a year ago.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Ballis <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 7:42 AM
Subject: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth


:
:-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
:
:Well, my bizarre and unwanted acting career goes well.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 08:17:01 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 06:28:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Dear Kat!

Lovely to see you this weekend!  Sorry it seemed we were both too busy to
visit.  At night I was too pooped from doing kids activities to go do the
rounds.  But I'm looking forward to doing things at July Coronation...a
*big* party to celebrate my no longer being a kingdom officer!  I have my
lord's 'permission' *grin* to volunteer for a Costumer's Guild position,
though!  I'll be talking to Isolde about how I can help her; of course, if
you can think of anything you'd like me to do would be fun too!

I was thinking about the web page and the FTSO.  I'll be submitting articles
for publishing soon, but not sure how I should do it, meaning what's the
best format?

The last one I did I submitted as a full fledge research paper with endnotes
and a very big biblio.  Found out after the fact (when the end notes and
bilbio weren't included) that the format I had used was not appropriate.  I
should have re-written it into an 'article-type' of thing with a short
biblio.

With that in mind, how about a small little blurb on the Costumer's Guild
web page about the way to do articles for FTSO?  I know that it's on one of
the back issues (which I've lost), but we've grown so much, it'd bears
repeating and actually might serve the guild members better on the web page.

What do you think?  Might even encourage people to submit more articles?

Hugs!

Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 08:19:01 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Congress Redux
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Oops!

So sorry listers!  I thought I had the personal addy!

So sorry!

Please ignore!

No, not you Kat!

*sigh*

Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 08:30:50 1999
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From: Lauretta Wenger <Lwenger@waukesha.tec.wi.us>
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-Poster: Lauretta Wenger <Lwenger@waukesha.tec.wi.us>

Dear Gia,

Would you please e-mail me privately,  I have a question I would like to ask....Thanks in advance.

Lauretta
lwenger@waukesha.tec.wi.us

>>> "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net> 05/24 8:28 AM >>>

-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Dear Kat!

Lovely to see you this weekend!  Sorry it seemed we were both too busy to
visit.  At night I was too pooped from doing kids activities to go do the
rounds.  But I'm looking forward to doing things at July Coronation...a
*big* party to celebrate my no longer being a kingdom officer!  I have my
lord's 'permission' *grin* to volunteer for a Costumer's Guild position,
though!  I'll be talking to Isolde about how I can help her; of course, if
you can think of anything you'd like me to do would be fun too!

I was thinking about the web page and the FTSO.  I'll be submitting articles
for publishing soon, but not sure how I should do it, meaning what's the
best format?

The last one I did I submitted as a full fledge research paper with endnotes
and a very big biblio.  Found out after the fact (when the end notes and
bilbio weren't included) that the format I had used was not appropriate.  I
should have re-written it into an 'article-type' of thing with a short
biblio.

With that in mind, how about a small little blurb on the Costumer's Guild
web page about the way to do articles for FTSO?  I know that it's on one of
the back issues (which I've lost), but we've grown so much, it'd bears
repeating and actually might serve the guild members better on the web page.

What do you think?  Might even encourage people to submit more articles?

Hugs!

Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 09:49:02 1999
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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Diana dresses in Seattle
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Hello list,

Just wanted to let those in the Pacific Northwest know that some of the Princess Diana dresses are going to be on display this week at the Pacific Place mall in downtown Seattle.  I don't know the cost to get in - I saw a blurb on the local news last night.  I am sure that the folks at the mall would know.

Okay, I know that I shouldn't gush about a new purchase, but I just have to.  I was able to purchase a copy of Jacqueline Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy this weekend!  (happy dance!)  And the best part, it's signed by the author!  Paid more than I ever have for any single book and quite happily, I might add.  It was a very good weekend.....

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs
aka Lady Cainder nic Sheanlaoich

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 10:20:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:23:24 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

The method you are asking about is called a wheel piece or gore although some might
have a slightly different terminology.  It's not entirely an historic method but is
somewhat similar.  At certain times looms weren't producing wide fabric, sometimes
only 22" wide.  Which mean that fabric had to be pieced together in order to get
the wide wide, did I say wide?, skirts of the 14th and 15th centuries.  Since there
aren't any extant cotehardies, just bits and pieces, speculation is that strips of
fabric (selvedge to selvedge) would be cut in graduated lengths and then trimmed to
make an angle.  I am terrible at asci art and don't know if my description can help
you visualize it or not.  Cynthia

> 2.  I know the pattern is not historically accurate but I could almost swear
> that I read/saw an example of a gown (don't even remember what century) that
> extra width was added in a way not unlike the way this pattern does.

>              |     |      Sort of like triangular
>             /       \     gores but only at the bottom
>            /         \    to compensate for narrow
>           /           \   fabric widths.
>          /             \
>         /               \
>        /|               |\
>       / |               | \
>      /__|_______________|__\
>

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 10:59:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:05:39 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> Very interesting to see all the various influences on costume, etc. in the
> movie.  That hairdo that Portman wore in the latter part -- where she's on
> that raid on the palace, with her hair doubled over on back of her head --
> is straight out of Geisha portraits.  How do you do that???

The hairdo is noted in the VOGUE spread as being based on Navaho
hair-shapes; could be either, although since there is so much asian
influence I'd put my money on that instead.

What I would really like to know is: are any of the other women of the
court/high status/ government women wearing similar styles?  All we saw
were the Queen and her Handmaidens.  Presumably the other high-ranking
women would have similar outfits to the Queen; hers would be a more
expensive and elaborate version of what was in fashion.  (Do they all
wear hats incorporating gold oval domes over their ears?) But because we
saw only a few women, it is impossible to tell.  If she's the only one
dressed this way, what does it say about the power structure on Naboo? 
I sure hope they plan costume pattern tie-ins for the Halloween season.

cv
--
Tunics! Hats! Houppelandes, oh my!  http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 8725
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

speculation is that strips of
>fabric (selvedge to selvedge) would be cut in graduated lengths and then 
>trimmed to
>make an angle.  I am terrible at asci art and don't know if my description 
>can help
>you visualize it or not.  Cynthia

	Yes, that's it!  Kind of like this, right?  Do you happen to know
                   ______       of a source offhand?  I'd like to
                  |      |      read up on it again.
                  |      |
             _____|      |_____
            |    /|      |\    |
            |   / |      | \   |
            |  /  |      |  \  |
            | /   |      |   \ |
       _____|/    |      |    \|_____
      |     |     |      |     |     |
      |    /|     |      |     |\    |

Tara


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 11:40:36 1999
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From: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>
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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

Actually, I'd put my money exactly where Vogue spread says the hair
style comes from. I thought I recognized it. I have Navajo dolls in my
collection and their hair is done up exactly like that.

Don't have a clue how they do it, but I know it takes more hair than I
will ever have in my lifetime, and adding that much false hair in the
back of her head must have given her huge headaches.

-betsy

Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

> The hairdo is noted in the VOGUE spread as being based on Navaho
> hair-shapes; could be either, although since there is so much asian
> influence I'd put my money on that instead.

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Web Mistress at large
WebInvent.com, Inc.

************************************************************************
mailto:WebInvent@WebInvent.com or visit http://www.WebInvent.com/
mailto:Costume-Con@Costume-Con.org or visit http://www.Costume-Con.org/
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 12:17:06 1999
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From: kat <kat@janrix.com>
To: "'Historic Costume list'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: match coats, 18th-19th cent.
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-Poster: kat <kat@janrix.com>

I seem to remember a post regarding match coats, but now I can't find it. 
If any one has a book or information regarding match coats, I'd appreciate 
it, as this is a question brought up by one of the Corps of Discovery 
members.

Also, when were the coatee -- a waist length coat, long sleeved popular? 
Where these single or double breasted coats? I've made the single breasted 
style for late ACW British re-enactors, now we have a question about the 
double breasted style.

Kat Hargus
owner, Making Time
www.makingtime.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 12:26:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:02:20 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Italian Ren Prom Dress
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-Poster: Finafyr@aol.com

I think that I have heard many things but when my Daughter asked me to make 
her and Italian Renaissance Prom Dress I was floored...She said that the 
other Girls were wearing "Nightgowns" and she wanted a real dress that would 
accentuate the positive and hide the negative....I was a little unsure 
because I didn't want to blow this important dress..not because I didn't know 
how( I make late period costumes all the time)...Well I made it..it had a 
Black velveteen bodice a dark purple satin skirt a gold underskirt and a 
light purple chemise...and Black velvetten sleeves....I trimed it with 
Crystals and gold trim....It turned out very well and she looked 
wonderful.....She was the only one wearing a dress like it but it was a very 
popular Dress with the Prom set.....Just thought I would share....

YIS
Fionnbharr 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 12:28:08 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

well, er, yeah.  *G*  At least I think so!  Don't know of a source off hand.
Depends on what you mean by source.  As far as I know there is no primary
documentation for this.  I suspect I saw this in maybe, Mary Houston's Dress in
Medieval England and France but not sure at all.

Cynthia

>         Yes, that's it!  Kind of like this, right?  Do you happen to know
>                    ______       of a source offhand?  I'd like to
>                   |      |      read up on it again.
>                   |      |
>              _____|      |_____
>             |    /|      |\    |
>             |   / |      | \   |
>             |  /  |      |  \  |
>             | /   |      |   \ |
>        _____|/    |      |    \|_____
>       |     |     |      |     |     |
>       |    /|     |      |     |\    |
>
> Tara
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 12:59:33 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 8725
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:06:56 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

The one I used as a guide to my first sca dress is very close to this
pattern. It is out of Carl Kohler's A History of Costume, pages 182-183.
German's Woman's Dress of the 14th Century. It has the patter of the dress
just above the image of the art.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 8725


:
:-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
:
:well, er, yeah.  *G*  At least I think so!  Don't know of a source off
hand.
:Depends on what you mean by source.  As far as I know there is no primary
:documentation for this.  I suspect I saw this in maybe, Mary Houston's
Dress in
:Medieval England and France but not sure at all.
:
:Cynthia
:
:>         Yes, that's it!  Kind of like this, right?  Do you happen to know
:>                    ______       of a source offhand?  I'd like to
:>                   |      |      read up on it again.
:>                   |      |
:>              _____|      |_____
:>             |    /|      |\    |
:>             |   / |      | \   |
:>             |  /  |      |  \  |
:>             | /   |      |   \ |
:>        _____|/    |      |    \|_____
:>       |     |     |      |     |     |
:>       |    /|     |      |     |\    |
:>
:> Tara
:>
:> _______________________________________________________________
:> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
:>  _________________________________________________________________
:>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:
:--
:Cynthia Long
:Merouda the True of Bornover
:Barony of Madrone
:Kingdom of An Tir
:
:
: _________________________________________________________________
: To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
: with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren Prom Dress
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-Poster: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>


Dear Fionnbharr, Hooray for you!  I bet your daughter
looked beautiful and that all the other girls were
ENVIOUS!  Nighties? What are they thinking?  The first
It. Ren I made was for my daughter and I am proud to 
say it turned out well.  She picked out the fabric,
wine colored brocade, her chemise is white silk. What
a dream she looks in it.
Ah, thanks for the SCA!!
Dorothy 8^)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 13:57:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren Prom Dress
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

Listers-

I think it's great that some kids are going with these kind of prom dresses! 
Except for a few Titanic style, most of the dresses I saw were long 
and...well, I agree, looking like rather shapeless nightgowns. It's my 
personal opinion one needs to be close to anorexic to wear one properly.
	My prom was two weeks ago, and although I'd been dared to wear my ACW 
ballgown, I  decided the hoops would probably end up injuring my date. 
Somehow. I had a blue satin dress with a top just as boned at my corset for 
above dress, with about 20 layers of tulle on the skirt. It was a 
dream...still, I'd have just LOVED to have had the Regency I'm embroidering 
finished, or an early English Ren. just to really stand out.
	Fashion always calls on the past, and I love seeing styles come back 
in. I saw a few Jessica McClintock dresses remenisant of the bustle era, and 
Regency has become very popular again. My personal favorite, though, were 
New-Look style dresses with very full skirts coming to mid-calve. Too cute!

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Canton, Ohio
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSU.4.10.9905231659410.13230-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Flemish 16th century Costume
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:38:18 -0700
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings Drea, 

This is an impressive page and an impressive piece of research!  Huzzah.  

Sidne/
In the SCA/Estrelda 
 
.... the paper I gave on Flemish Dress at the Medieval Congress is
> now online.  You can check it out at
> http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 16:33:13 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 8725
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:34:56 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

>1.  I did get a chance to take a quick look at the instruction sheet.  From 
>what I saw, there are not separate front and side front pieces.  Bustline 
>fullness is added by easing the underarm area of the front to the back at 
>the side seam.  However, the photo of the made up gown (one in gold) clearly 
>has a princess type seam.  Does the pattern indeed have a seam there or was 
>that just an adjustment they did to make the model in the photo look better?

I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice this.  I looked at the 
instructions for about a half-hour trying to find that princess seam.  
No, it is not in the pattern, but yes, it is in the dress worn by the 
model.  If you ask me, I think that was very bad form on Simplicity's 
part to have done that.

>2.  I know the pattern is not historically accurate but I could almost swear 
>that I read/saw an example of a gown (don't even remember what century) that 
>extra width was added in a way not unlike the way this pattern does.
<snip>

While I certainly won't say that it is definitely not period, I haven't 
found any examples of dresses of this time period that have fullness 
added in this fashion.  Every example I've found uses princess seaming or 
gores to achieve the fullness.  In addition, the right angle at the hips 
that they have in this pattern is just such a bad idea.  The seam is 
practically guaranteed to wear through or tear at that point.  (Of 
course, this is a "costume" pattern, so nobody will be wearing it more 
than once, right? :-) Also the dress has all the fullness at the sides, 
and none in front - a very unflattering effect.

While I have to give Simplicity and the designer credit for creating a 
pattern that at least does a better job of portraying the right look than 
any other pattern I've seen before that purports to be of the same time 
period, I can't help but wonder why they didn't just use a 
straightforward princess line pattern.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 18:14:21 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Fiber Properties
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:22:12 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello All,

I'm teaching a class on understanding fabric this weekend, and I'm 
putting the final touches on my handout.  In one area in particular, I 
feel like I don't have enough examples, and I'm hoping you folks can jog 
my memory a bit.

In my section on fibers, I want to give examples of different inherent 
properties of different fibers.  So far, I have the following

* generally, natural fibers breathe, and so are cool in hot weather and 
warm in cold weather
* generally, synthetics don't breathe as well, and aren't as comfortable 
in hot weather
* polyester resists wrinkling
* cotton is absorbent
* wool is warm even when wet

Can anyone think of any other examples, particularly of any fibers not 
mentioned above?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 18:45:28 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

How about the fact that linen wicks(I think this is the term that I am
looking for) liquid and that is why you keeper cooler in it than in a
synthetic.
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 6:26 PM
Subject: H-COST: Fiber Properties



-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello All,

I'm teaching a class on understanding fabric this weekend, and I'm
putting the final touches on my handout.  In one area in particular, I
feel like I don't have enough examples, and I'm hoping you folks can jog
my memory a bit.

In my section on fibers, I want to give examples of different inherent
properties of different fibers.  So far, I have the following

* generally, natural fibers breathe, and so are cool in hot weather and
warm in cold weather
* generally, synthetics don't breathe as well, and aren't as comfortable
in hot weather
* polyester resists wrinkling
* cotton is absorbent
* wool is warm even when wet

Can anyone think of any other examples, particularly of any fibers not
mentioned above?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 19:56:58 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: star wars vogue?
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:08:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

which issue of vogue featured a "spread" on hairstyles, etc? i looked
through this month's issue in the store and didnt see anything about it.

allison


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 20:45:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:49:12 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: debbie strub <tsuruko@silverlink.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #331
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990523222204.00d0d180@mail.canfield.com>
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-Poster: debbie strub <tsuruko@silverlink.net>

Greetings,

   It's probably John Marshall's Make Your Own Japanese Clothes, 1988
Kodansha Int'l Ltd.,
ISBN 0-87011-865-X.

Deb


At 10:23 PM 5/23/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
>
>*********
>Mara said teasingly:
>Guess I'm gonna have to make that kimono robe for my hubby one of these
>days!  For those of you that are interested, there's a good book available
>on making your own Japanese clothing -- how to take measurements so it'll
>fit you properly.  Not hard, since all the pieces are rectangles anyway.  I
>loaned the book to my sister, who made a beautiful robe for herself out of
>some nice printed cotton, and I've made a few happi jackets and one
>floor-length robe myself, based on the book.  None of these garments has
>anything to do with Star Wars, but I've been promising to make my hubby a
>kimono-type robe for several years now, so I might as well make one that
>will do double duty :D
>
>********
>
>Okay, come clean, WHAT IS THE BOOK CALLED?  Yep, you brought it up, now you
>have to divulge the data!  Or we'll fuss!
>
>Larisa
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:54:25 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

polyester resists wrinkling BECAUSE it does not absorb moisture well

rayon, being even more absorbent than cotton, takes dyes well but also 
wrinkles badly

rayon is weaker when wet, so dry cleaning is often recommended

(linen doesn't really wick moisture, by the way)

wool fibers will felt together when subjected to heat and moisture because of 
the scales on the surface

silk is the only natural filament fiber

And please, be sure your students learn the difference between FIBER and 
FABRIC.  Whenever I read or hear a reference to "silk or satin," I could 
scream!   Silk is, of course, a fiber, and can be woven or knitted into 
satin, chiffon, brocade, jersey, velvet, etc.  Satin is a fabric with the 
satin weave structure and can be made from silk, polyester, acetate, or any 
fiber with a natural sheen to give the characteristic shiny surface.  
There, I got that off my chest.

Good luck.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 21:53:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 23:00:48 -0400
From: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Forties patterns
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-Poster: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>

I seem to recall a thread a while back about dresses for the 1940s, but I
unfortunately managed to delete it all. :(. I'm looking for a commercial
pattern for a dress to wear swing dancing - something from the appropriate
time, that's easy to move in. Any recommendations?

Hilary Doda.

**************************************************************************

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
                            - Dave Barry
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> Can anyone think of any other examples, particularly of any fibers not
> mentioned above?

Well, they *all* stink when applied to open flame . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 22:08:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:17:09 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:05 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>Well, they *all* stink when applied to open flame . . . Kate
        {laughing}  I've been told that's true -- and that each stinks
quite differently and that by the odor and the way the fibers burn and the
ashes they leave that one can tell the contents.
Carol, not that experienced with all of them to feel comfortable trying the
burn test...
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:26:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Forties patterns
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

It may not be perfectly accurate, but simplicity's costume collection has
a swing dress that isn't bad....


On Mon, 24 May 1999, Hilary Doda wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>
> 
> I seem to recall a thread a while back about dresses for the 1940s, but I
> unfortunately managed to delete it all. :(. I'm looking for a commercial
> pattern for a dress to wear swing dancing - something from the appropriate
> time, that's easy to move in. Any recommendations?
> 
> Hilary Doda.
> 
> **************************************************************************
> 
> There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>                             - Dave Barry
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 22:31:58 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I can think of two other things off-hand.  In sheer fabrics like
chiffons, silk will be the lightest and "float" best, while rayon is a
good second, and polyester is quite heavy.  Also, If you hold a fabric
in your hand for a little while, natural fabrics will usually feel warm
to the touch, while synthetics will feel cool.  Occassionally I'll come
across a cool pure natural, but I suspect that the finishing is what is
affecting the feel of it.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 23:37:54 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

Moving on from stains to smells:  does anybody know how to get the smell
of tobacco out of otherwise clean clothes (formerly worn by a heavy
smoker)?

Thanks,
Lauri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 23:40:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:49:14 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Re: Corded Belts, garb and veils
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   Someone from another list I frequest wondered about the authenticity of
the attire in the 'Robin Hood' film that starred Patrick Bergen.  In
particular, she mentioned the veil Marian is wearing.  I answered: Marian's
veil...I don't recall seeing it, but I'm sure I must have...my
best guess would be silk chiffon.  Light as dandelion fluffs upon the
wind.  She then followed up with: 

Date: Tu990525 From: Elysant <snowfire@MAIL.SNET.NET> Su: Re: Corded Belts,
garb and veils
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
>Wonderful description! :-)  Is it documentable for 12 century?  I
>thought chiffon was more modern...

           I don't know.  Could anyone here comment, both on whether silk
or other chiffon was documentable to 12th century, and if not, what else
may have been--and also on whether you find the film's attire to be fairly
authentic to the period or not?  It would be wonderful if you would copy
your comments directly to the lady at:  Elysant <snowfire@MAIL.SNET.NET>.
Many, many thanks. I learn so much from all of you here gathered.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 24 23:59:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 01:00:18 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Stained dress
In-Reply-To: <374A2B19.711432E3@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

Lots of fresh air!  If you can hang it outside in a good breeze for a few
days, out of sunlight, if you're afraid of fading, that should do it.

Alternatively, charcoal works very well for removing stains.  I've wrapped
ordinary charcoal briquets in paper towels and put the shirt into a trash
bag with these briquets for a few days.  It may take repeated attempts,
depending upon how smokey the clothes are.

Donna 

At 12:46 AM 5/25/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
>
>Moving on from stains to smells:  does anybody know how to get the smell
>of tobacco out of otherwise clean clothes (formerly worn by a heavy
>smoker)?
>
>Thanks,
>Lauri
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 00:04:31 1999
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From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Stained dress
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>Alternatively, charcoal works very well for removing stains.  

Umm, that should be "removing odors."

*sigh*  That's what I get for writing when I should be sleeping!

Donna
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:01:30 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Classically speaking, rayon gets stiff when wet and is prone to fiber
breakage until dry. Ramie is also a rather brittle fiber which tends to
break along fold lines.

Karen

On Mon, 24 May 1999 19:22:12 -0400 Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net> writes:
>
>-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
>
>Hello All,
>
>I'm teaching a class on understanding fabric this weekend, and I'm 
>putting the final touches on my handout.  In one area in particular, I 
>
>feel like I don't have enough examples, and I'm hoping you folks can 
>jog 
>my memory a bit.
>
>In my section on fibers, I want to give examples of different inherent 
>
>properties of different fibers.  So far, I have the following
>
>* generally, natural fibers breathe, and so are cool in hot weather 
>and 
>warm in cold weather
>* generally, synthetics don't breathe as well, and aren't as 
>comfortable 
>in hot weather
>* polyester resists wrinkling
>* cotton is absorbent
>* wool is warm even when wet
>
>Can anyone think of any other examples, particularly of any fibers not 
>
>mentioned above?
>
>Jessica Clark
>SCA: Irène leNoir
>irene@ici.net
>http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 01:56:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 00:01:37 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Fellow costumers,

If any of you live within a decent driving distance of Santa Cruz, CA
you might want to check this out.  It sounds like a wonderful talk and I
am jealous of anyone who gets to go since I cannot.

And if anyone does get to go, maybe you could share some of the
important points with the rest of us......

Diana :~>

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To my fellow SCA'ers with an interest - I wanted to let people know about
the following:

A Show & Tell/Lecture on "The Use and Value of a Number of Needle Arts
Techniques in Recreating Historical Costumes"  by Lynn McMasters

Lynn will have many period hats and FULL costumes on display for close-up
examination for the purpose of discussing the use of such needle arts
techniques as: ruching, beading, bejeweling, quilting, trapunto, embroidery
and more. The costumes and hats are mostly in the range from the late
1400's to early 1600's.

The talk is free - and her re-creations are exquisite.

For a preview of Lynn's work, check out her web site at

http://www.jps.net/lynnmcm/lynn.html

The site has many wonderful pictures and details. Be sure to check out the
entire sections on embellishment, accessories, and hats!

Wed. Jun 2nd 7:00 PM
Sherri's Workshop
1121 Soquel Ave. Santa Cruz (831) 476-5425

If you are interested in making the trip for this (it will be WELL worth a
special trip), please email me and I can give you directions.

My humble apologies to any non-interested parties for the bandwidth.



****************************************************************
Trish Waldon                    voice: (831) 459-3857
Social Sciences Development     fax:   (831) 459-5900
310 Social Sciences I           email: trishw@cats.ucsc.edu
University of California
Santa Cruz, CA  95064


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 03:58:32 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:04:26 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@home.net>
> 
> So this is the continuation of the series? I remember this was a movie
> special about a year ago.
> 

Dunno, they feed me food, clothe me inc lothes and pay me money. Apart from
that, I am told nothing.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 07:00:25 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Fiber Properties
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:08:38 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello Everyone,

Thanks for the suggestions so far.  However, I've noticed that a lot of 
the suggestions given so far are negative properties of the fibers.  I 
was hoping to find more positive aspects.

Thanks for the help

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 07:03:40 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

rayon drapes very well and takes dyes well and is cheap

silk takes dyes well and drapes well and has a very pleasant "hand"

wool's felting properties can, of course, be an asset--look at yurts!

I guess we do tend to think of negatives because they limit how we can use 
fabrics from the various fibers.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 08:55:32 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

If it doesn't come out with regular washing, try using a little
Listerine in the next wash.  If you can't wash it, try spraying the
inside with Lysol.  Of course, try an inconpicuous spot first, it may
stain silk, for all I know.  It's great on costumes when you can't get
them to the cleaners.  I hear Febreeze is good, but leaves a floral
smell and stiffens the fabric a bit.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 08:56:05 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #331
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

Well, is it this book?  If not, which one?  I am interested......

>-Poster: debbie strub <tsuruko@silverlink.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>   It's probably John Marshall's Make Your Own Japanese Clothes, 1988
>Kodansha Int'l Ltd.,
>ISBN 0-87011-865-X.
>
>Deb
>
>
>At 10:23 PM 5/23/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
>>
>>*********
>>Mara said teasingly:
>>Guess I'm gonna have to make that kimono robe for my hubby one of these
>>days!  For those of you that are interested, there's a good book available
>>on making your own Japanese clothing -- how to take measurements so it'll
>>fit you properly.  Not hard, since all the pieces are rectangles anyway.
I
>>loaned the book to my sister, who made a beautiful robe for herself out of
>>some nice printed cotton, and I've made a few happi jackets and one
>>floor-length robe myself, based on the book.  None of these garments has
>>anything to do with Star Wars, but I've been promising to make my hubby a
>>kimono-type robe for several years now, so I might as well make one that
>>will do double duty :D
>>
>>********
>>
>>Okay, come clean, WHAT IS THE BOOK CALLED?  Yep, you brought it up, now
you
>>have to divulge the data!  Or we'll fuss!
>>
>>Larisa
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 09:00:37 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/25/99 5:21:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

<< Dunno, they feed me food, clothe me inc lothes and pay me money. Apart from
 that, I am told nothing.
  >>
Surely they tell you where to stand!

I encourage anyone who has the time to be an extra. The process of filming is 
so unlike the final product, it is amazing.
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> 
> > -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@home.net>
> > 
> > So this is the continuation of the series? I remember this was a movie
> > special about a year ago.
> > 
> 
> Dunno, they feed me food, clothe me inc lothes and pay me money. Apart
from
> that, I am told nothing.
> 
> -C.

Are you sure you didn't accidentally join the military?

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 10:05:35 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Joan of Arc on CBS
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Was Joan of Arc so horrible it's utterly beneath mention? The costuming, I 
mean, although I thought the acting/script wasn't too great.

"Not my period",
Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 12:53:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:03:53 -0700
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Alms pouches
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Hello List -

I am trying to locate some pictures showing alms pouches as 
part of an overall outfit.  I have some pictures of existing 
pouches that are very detailed; however, nothing showing 
them in actual use.  The time period that I am looking for is 14th
century - between 1320 - 1390, if possible.

Does anyone out there have an idea of where I need to look
to find this?

Thanks!

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 14:03:48 1999
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Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 00:57:53 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Machine Question Cross-post
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>As a former sewing machine dealer, who sews and sergers for hours every
>day, take my word on this:
>DO NOT BUY A SINGER.
>You will regret it every time. They are not the company they used to be.
>Unless you buy a 50 year old, black cast iron Singer, don't waste your
>money.

Although I essentially agree with this.  (I hate my singer)  This fall I
was talking to a Pfaff dealer (great machines - definitely recommended) and
he said that Pfaff had recently taken over Singer's Research & Development
department and that we should look for a better Singer soon.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 14:23:33 1999
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

Have you looked at Vogue Patterns (and the other Big 3)?  I'd also keep
an eye on eBay, the auction site:

http://www.ebay.com/
You can search for what you want, such as vintage patterns etc. Also,

http://www.fabrics.net/
if I recall right has links to pattern co.s.

Luck,
Heather

> I seem to recall a thread a while back about dresses for the 1940s, but > I unfortunately managed to delete it all. I'm looking for a commercial
> pattern for a dress to wear swing dancing - something from the 
> appropriate time, that's easy to move in. Any recommendations?
> 
> Hilary Doda.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 14:26:31 1999
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From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
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-Poster: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>

Hello List,

Vogue Patterns has published an ongoing series of vintage reproduction patterns from their archives.
There are some 40s dresses and suits in the collection.

The patterns have been adapted from their original publication (printed, with seam allowances, etc),
and have been sized according to modern standards.

The chain stores that carry Vogue put them on sale occasionally.

Hope this helps,

Mary Denise Smith
Costume & Dressmaker Press
Publications for Serious Costumers
http://www/costumemag.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 15:25:20 1999
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: historic costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        vintage costume <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Cleopatra
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-Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>


Sorry, this if off topic, but did any one tape Cleopatra this week?  I
was out and forgot.  I'd love to borrow someone's copy.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 20:49:42 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: fibers and fabrics
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Satin is a fabric with the
satin weave structure and can be made from silk, polyester, acetate, or any
fiber with a natural sheen to give the characteristic shiny surface.  >>

Even wool (in the past.)


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 21:02:46 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> <<Satin is a fabric 
> Even wool (in the past.)

Still!  My mom brought me some absolutely delicious wool satin in
blue-grey from Scotland.  I haven't figured out what to make from it
yet; it's only about 2 yards.

--
"It was pretty much historically accurate, except for the talking dogs." 
 -- The Truly Dangerous Co.

Fabric for Bachelors: how to buy good work clothing  http://www.virtue.to
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 21:27:08 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 25 May 1999, Colleen McDonald Hinrichs wrote:

> 
> I am trying to locate some pictures showing alms pouches as 
> part of an overall outfit.  I have some pictures of existing 
> pouches that are very detailed; however, nothing showing 
> them in actual use.  The time period that I am looking for is 14th
> century - between 1320 - 1390, if possible.
> 
> Does anyone out there have an idea of where I need to look
> to find this?
> 
Sadly, I think you might be out of luck....
One often sees 'aulmonieres' on belts in 13th century illuminations, but
in the 14th century not so. Certainly not once cote-hardies come in. I
believe the belt was worn under the outside garment, and the purse hung off
that. I've seen piccies of men stripped down to their undies with their
purses hung off the belt holding them up. Makes it tricky to get to (unless
you have fitchets in your cotehardie) but it also makes it tricky for
thieves to get to....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue May 25 22:37:17 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

Boydell & Brewer are issuing a reprint of Newton's *Fashion in the Age
of the Black Prince*, scheduled to be out in September.  No pricing
information so far.

Sorry for the belated response:  I'm just now catching up on this
month's e-mail.

Lauri



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 00:34:17 1999
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-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com

In a message dated 5/13/99 2:33:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
susanf@netwiz.net writes:

<< I meant the Star Wars paper dolls.
     I saw some at Target a few days ago.
                      Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 01:14:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 01:55:28 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>In one area in particular, I feel like I don't have enough examples, and
>I'm hoping you folks can jog my memory a bit.

How about the fact that silk is an excellent insulator?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 01:35:58 1999
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-Poster: lisaleon@hawaii.edu

I just heard from a book dealer that QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd is going to be
printed again in a few months too.  She had no price info yet either.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 01:45:20 1999
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

	I recently found a couple of rabbit(?) fur jackets at Goodwill
which I plan to take apart and turn into costume parts someday.  I'd like
to clean them first and having absolutely no experience with fur, am
supposing I should take them to a dry cleaner.  I don't think cleaners
in Hawaii have much experience with fur either...is there anything special
I should tell them?  And should I take them as jackets or disassemble them
and just take the fur pieces?  The linings aren't in very good condition
and I'll probably discard them anyway.

thanks,
lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 05:04:47 1999
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From: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Joan of Arc on CBS
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 06:05:50 -0400
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-Poster: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>

agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred) wrote:
>
>Was Joan of Arc so horrible it's utterly beneath mention? The costuming, I
>mean, although I thought the acting/script wasn't too great.

It's not my period, so I can't comment on the accuracy of that.  However
there were a few points where I found myself shrieking "I want that
fabric!".    :)

Oh, that  gold and blue brocade the king had on....


TC Carstensen


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 05:34:50 1999
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From: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fiber Properties
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-Poster: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>

Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions so far.  However, I've noticed that a lot of
> the suggestions given so far are negative properties of the fibers.  I
> was hoping to find more positive aspects.

OK.  Linen becomes delightfully soft after several washings.  You also can't
beat it for "breatheability."


TC Carstensen


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 05:54:14 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

You probably want to get them professionally cleaned.  It will cost a bundle, 
though!  There might be one cleaner in Hawaii who does fur--even on the 
mainland, cleaners send furs out to a central cleaner to do.  If you don't 
feel it is worth the price, you can clean the fur part yourself.  I once read 
directions for putting a cleaning solution on a sponge and stroking the 
hairs, but that was in the days when you could still buy carbon tetrachloride 
in big jugs.  And you really can't do the skin yourself.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 06:10:03 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:15:55 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> << Dunno, they feed me food, clothe me inc lothes and pay me money. Apart
from
>  that, I am told nothing.
>   >>
> Surely they tell you where to stand!
> 

Nah, they tell me to stop fidgeting, they also tell me it is not cold. They
lie.


-C.
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:39:27 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fibers and fabrics
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

A few years ago, I found wool sateen (satin weave wool) made in Italy.
Gorgeous! I found it at several high-end fabric stores, including G Street
Fabrics in Washington.
Kim


At 09:58 PM 5/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
><<Satin is a fabric with the
>satin weave structure and can be made from silk, polyester, acetate, or any
>fiber with a natural sheen to give the characteristic shiny surface.  >>
>
>Even wool (in the past.)
>
>
>Deborah
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:49:21 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting rumor...
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-Poster: Jean1Cait1@aol.com

In a message dated 26.05.1999 07:44:51 GMT Daylight Time, lisaleon@hawaii.edu 
writes:

<< 
 I just heard from a book dealer that QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd is going to be
 printed again in a few months too.  She had no price info yet either.
  >>
I had the pleasure to talk with Janet Arnold before she passed away and she 
gave me the address of her publisher here in England.  I will dig to see if I 
can find it, she said it was about 85 pounds  plus shipping and handling for 
the book.  (but that was a year ago)
Cheers!
Caitrin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 07:50:46 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Technically, sateen is weft faced, while satin is warp-faced, but, yes, yarns 
of any fiber can be woven in a satin or sateen weave.  It's just that, when 
one mentions satin, one usually thinks of a very shiny surfaced fabric.  This 
comes from both the weave, which has long floats on the surface, and the 
luster fibers/yarns themselves.

Ann Wass
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/26/99 8:54:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Jean1Cait1@aol.com writes:

<< she said it was about 85 pounds  plus shipping and handling >>

Wow! That's a heavy tome!


Oh....you mean £85!
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-Poster: Jean1Cait1@aol.com

In a message dated 26.05.1999 14:08:52 GMT Daylight Time, AlbertCat@aol.com 
writes:

<< < she said it was about 85 pounds  plus shipping and handling >>
 
 Wow! That's a heavy tome!
 
 
 Oh....you mean £85!
   >>
;-)
Ok, you caught me, my keyboard won't make the pound symbol.  
Cheers!
Caitrin
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Boydell & Brewer are issuing a reprint of Newton's *Fashion in the Age
> of the Black Prince*, scheduled to be out in September.  No pricing
> information so far.

Oh, this is wonderful news! Her Venetian book would be nice too (if 
anyone has any input there.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I had the pleasure to talk with Janet Arnold before she passed away and she 
> gave me the address of her publisher here in England.  I will dig to see if I 
> can find it, she said it was about 85 pounds  plus shipping and handling for 
> the book.  (but that was a year ago)

Hmmm. That's only up about 10 pounds from what the price has been 
recently. (It's the shipping from England that tends to get you. I 
was told to expect it to be 1/4 to 1/3 the price of the book when I 
was there last month. That's what most of my book shipments have been 
running, as they had said.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 09:25:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:37:04 -0700
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Alms pouches
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Is it possible that the pouches/purses were carried rather than attached to a belt?  

I've got several pictures of pouches/purses that date to the 14th century in France, so it would seem that they were still in existence in that time frame, maybe just not worn on belts.

Any other ideas for pictures showing alms purses/pouches in use?

Thanks!

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

>>Sadly, I think you might be out of luck....
One often sees 'aulmonieres' on belts in 13th century illuminations, but in the 14th century not so. Certainly not once cote-hardies come in. I believe the belt was worn under the outside garment, and the purse hung off that. I've seen 
piccies of men stripped down to their undies with their
purses hung off the belt holding them up. Makes it tricky to 
get to (unless you have fitchets in your cotehardie) but it 
also makes it tricky for thieves to get to....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 09:39:32 1999
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From: "Chandler, Sally" <S.A.Chandler@shu.ac.uk>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Alms pouches
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:45:44 +0100
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-Poster: "Chandler, Sally" <S.A.Chandler@shu.ac.uk>

I was lucky enough to be working at Westminster Abbey one year when the 
Queen distributed the Maundy money there.  The purses are, I believe 
reproductions of the 16th century design (not, I know, what you were asking 
about!) and are carried or put into a pouch, not attached to a belt.

Hope this helps,

Sally Ann

-----Original Message-----
From:	Colleen McDonald Hinrichs [SMTP:Colleen@Mackie.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, May 26, 1999 3:37 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	Re: H-COST: Alms pouches


-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Is it possible that the pouches/purses were carried rather than attached to 
a belt?

I've got several pictures of pouches/purses that date to the 14th century 
in France, so it would seem that they were still in existence in that time 
frame, maybe just not worn on belts.

Any other ideas for pictures showing alms purses/pouches in use?

Thanks!

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

>>Sadly, I think you might be out of luck....
One often sees 'aulmonieres' on belts in 13th century illuminations, but in 
the 14th century not so. Certainly not once cote-hardies come in. I believe 
the belt was worn under the outside garment, and the purse hung off that. 
I've seen
piccies of men stripped down to their undies with their
purses hung off the belt holding them up. Makes it tricky to
get to (unless you have fitchets in your cotehardie) but it
also makes it tricky for thieves to get to....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------  
--
Claire F. Clarke



 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:49:28 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Irene's fiber question reminded me of one I've been meaning to ask the
Professional types on this list for a while.

I know that wrinkle-resistant 100% cotton fabrics are made so by
application of "resins."  They also make the fabric more brittle, and I
imagine that they impede water absorption/evaporation.

Is it possible to get the resins out of sheets and other fabrics, or are
they there pretty much for life?  Are yard goods likely to have resin
and yet be unlabeled as such?

Thanks,
cv

[background, from Consumer Reports: "Some pants are touted as wrinkle
resistant, and some of those claim permanant creases.  Wrinkle reistance
is achieved with a resin based finish with cross-linked molecular chians
that lock the fibers in place but make them more brittle.  The cross
links are formed during a heating  process either before the fabric is
cut or after the pants are made.  Unfinished cotton tends to be more
durable, but it's more likely to shrink and often requires a working
relationship with an iron."]
--
"It was pretty much historically accurate, except for the talking dogs."
 -- The Truly Dangerous Co.
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:14:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: fibers and fabrics
In-Reply-To: <374B5828.D984A7F4@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

2 yards?
Sounds like a vest/waistcoat to me!  A good way to show off the fabric...

Cheers,
Mara

On Tue, 25 May 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> 
> > <<Satin is a fabric 
> > Even wool (in the past.)
> 
> Still!  My mom brought me some absolutely delicious wool satin in
> blue-grey from Scotland.  I haven't figured out what to make from it
> yet; it's only about 2 yards.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 12:26:57 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: foundation support
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:20:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Ok, so I did not know how to title this. I am embarrassed to ask this but I
gotta know. I need help. This weekend I am wearing a Chiton. After standing
in the mirror I have concluded that my breasts are no longer the perky full
things they used to before my two babies. My nipples point down instead of
up now. :(

Now that you know where I am coming from, how do those beauty contestants
keep their boobage up under those sheer slinky not virginal examples of
dresses? I remember a few years ago we discussed this and we talked about
tapes and gum and other strange things. I scoffed at it all. Now however I
find myself the butt of my own scoffing.

To top it all off I am playing the part of Aphrodite! Help!!

Sincerely,
F. Havas (who has lost Aphrodite's magic golden girdle of youthful
illusionary beauty)
Dallas, Texas


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 12:41:05 1999
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: foundation support
In-Reply-To: <006901bea79e$28c19840$ac350418@c59303-a.mckiny1.tx.home.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Wed, 26 May 1999, Franchesca Havas wrote:
> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
> 
> Ok, so I did not know how to title this. I am embarrassed to ask this but I
> gotta know. I need help. This weekend I am wearing a Chiton. After standing
> in the mirror I have concluded that my breasts are no longer the perky full
> things they used to before my two babies. My nipples point down instead of
> up now. :(
> 
> Now that you know where I am coming from, how do those beauty contestants
> keep their boobage up under those sheer slinky not virginal examples of
> dresses? I remember a few years ago we discussed this and we talked about
> tapes and gum and other strange things. I scoffed at it all. Now however I
> find myself the butt of my own scoffing.
> 
> To top it all off I am playing the part of Aphrodite! Help!!
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas (who has lost Aphrodite's magic golden girdle of youthful
> illusionary beauty)
> Dallas, Texas

Well, to perk yourself up (no pun intended), take a look at some of the
Renaissance Masters' paintings of Venus and Adonis... she's no Twiggy!
And the Venus de Milo isn't, either.

Maybe you can experiment with some bandeau tops such as Roman women seem
to have worn while exercizing -- there was a discussion about such tops on
this list a little while ago.  If I were making a bandeau for such
purposes, I'd probably take a strip of bias-cut cloth and wrap it around
my torso snugly enough to stay in place, then pin it.  You'd want
bias-cut cloth for its stretching qualities.

Has anyone else had experience with this sort of thing?

<g> Think of it as the Roman version of a strapless bra!

Cheers,
Mara

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Alms pouches
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 19:50:53 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hello List,

Colleen wrote:
> I am trying to locate some pictures showing alms pouches as 
> part of an overall outfit.  

By 'alms pouches' I suppose you mean the pouch hanging from the belt, which
is meant to contain money (and from which you could pay alms, but also the
butcher and the baker...). In my opinion it is wrong to call this useful
thing thus; the medieval person just spoke of his or her 'purse'.

I have some pictures of existing 
> pouches that are very detailed; however, nothing showing 
> them in actual use.  The time period that I am looking for is 14th
> century - between 1320 - 1390, if possible.

There are not many pictures of people wearing purses in the 14th c. There
are some in the Manesse Manuscript (1305-20, fig. 27, 3 hanging from a
pole, fig. 51, a purse which contained a scroll, fig 125, actually hanging
from a belt), in the Luttrell Psalter (ca 1335, f.i. f. 186v, a man in the
process of actually giving alms, f. 163v, a pitcher carrying woman with a
purse hanging from her belt) and in the Romance d'Alexandre (ca 1340, f.
138 e.o.). There is more, I have seen it, but it takes too long to look it
all up again. Just look for miniatures of city folk, not court people or
peasants.

Hope this helps,

Henk
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I suggest flesh-colored ace bandage wrapping.  Start below the breasts
and work up.  Just be careful not to pull too tight.  Know of some
people who have used various tapes, but they're painful to remove.  One
used an abdominal support on her chest to play the part of a boy and
ended up fainting because it was too tight.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 13:03:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:08:43 -0600
From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
Organization: Costume & Dressmaker Press
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Fashion In The Age Of The Black Prince
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-Poster: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>

Hello List,

I talked with the folks from Boydell & Brewer at a book publishing trade show recently. Fashion In
The Age Of The Black Prince will indeed be available in September, for $35.

I think AlterYears will have it, and Poison Pen Press. It will be available through my web site via
amazon.com.

Hope this helps,

Mary Denise Smith
Costume & Dressmaker Press
Publications for Serious Costumers
http://www.costumemag.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 14:10:27 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fashion In The Age Of The Black Prince
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> 
> I talked with the folks from Boydell & Brewer at a book publishing trade
show recently. Fashion In
> The Age Of The Black Prince will indeed be available in September, for
$35.

Huzzah! This sounds like a very cool tome, one that I simply must add to the
rapidly growing library that is taking over the back third of my home.
(That's what I get for joining the Crafter's Book Club, SIGH!)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, icg-l@lists.best.com
Subject: H-COST: 'Phantom' Costume Inspirations
Message-Id: <927747289.1538.339@excite.com>
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:34:49 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!
I know many of you are on both lists, so I am sorry if you have to wade
through this twice. To be brief, the following URL leads to an interesting
article about the costume inspirations for the latest Star Wars episode.
Enjoy!

http://www.sfgate.com:80/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/examiner/archive/1999/05/
20/STYLE12815.dtl

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Man is certainly stark mad: he cannot make a flea, yet he makes gods by the
dozens. - Montaigne, Essays - 1588




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 14:57:03 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I have bought adhesive 'cups' at various stores (Frederick's of
Hollywood I know carries them but I believe they can be found at those
stores which have an actual bra fitter...I'd call first to see.  As a DD
they don't work as well for me but I understand that for A-C cups they
work very well.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 15:12:33 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren Prom Dress
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@pop.erols.com>

About a month ago at my son's prom, some of the drama kids came dressed as
"Interview with a Vampire".  My son said they were the hit of the night!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 15:13:24 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Period Lace and Trim
References: <4.1.19990221012956.00be3b40@pop.slip.net> <36D17136.D8929EC9@earthlink.net> <36D1AEB1.DCD4188B@wenet.net> <3744344D.717EDEFE@2xtreme.net>
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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

Dear List Members

I have just list a bunch of period lace and trim on Ebay.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=madly&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

I have also listed a number of Vintage Patterns.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=bellezza&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

If you have any question feel free to write.


Yours Stephen Bergdahl

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 16:20:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren Prom Dress
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Pictures Penny?


> About a month ago at my son's prom, some of the drama kids came dressed as
> "Interview with a Vampire".  My son said they were the hit of the night!
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 18:30:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 19:38:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: foundation support
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-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>

I, too, have used these adhesive cups, having bought them at the
department store Hudson's (aka Dayton's west of the Mississippi.) They
worked well for me, but I had one heck of a time getting them off at the
end of the evening. 

	Parsla Liepa


On Wed, 26 May 1999, Kat & Kent wrote:

<
<-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
<
<I have bought adhesive 'cups' at various stores (Frederick's of
<Hollywood I know carries them but I believe they can be found at those
<stores which have an actual bra fitter...I'd call first to see.  As a DD
<they don't work as well for me but I understand that for A-C cups they
<work very well.
<
<Kat
< _________________________________________________________________
< To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
< with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
<


    Parsla
	There's not a mome wrath born that can outgrabe me. 
*****************************************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 20:42:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:48:48 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Well, I thought the costumes were barely acceptable. Pretty dull and 
uninteresting, although close enough to the period. My husband and I noted 
the "heavily textured" peasant look!

My husband, though, was disgusted with the armor, especially for the nobles. 
And seeing as so much of the costuming WAS armor, I guess that means the 
overall quality was pretty poor.

Gail Finke

PS: My husband just read this and said that the English armor was pretty 
good. He wonders why the French, who were on screen so much, had such 
inferior armor. Especially the loose, flappy mail hoods on principal 
characters!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 20:42:43 1999
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Subject: H-COST: re: swing question
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Hillary:

I was the one that brought the question up before, and apparently there are 
no good 1940s-era patterns out there, at least from commercial patterns. 
There are lots of 1950s-style things, some are even billed as being for swing.

Just wanted to alert you and everyone else to McAll's pattern 2252, "Swing 
Fever." It's for men and women. The women's outfit is truly hideous. But it 
includes some men's pull-on pants that I like. I checked in the catalogue, 
and they are the fullest men's pants McCall's offers. Anyway, I bought the 
pattern for $2, brought it home, and convinced my husband thatI could make 
them with a regular drawstring or elastic waist (like all his pajamas) and 
without the stupid-looking waist the pattern comes in.

I've seen similar men's pants offered on a website for about $40. I figure I 
could run up a pair or two in a wide stripe, checks, or plaid, and my husband 
could wear them to classes and feel more in the mood for swing than he does 
in jeans. Then he can save his super-wide pegged pants (yet to be bought) for 
dances.

Also -- the pattern cover shows three versions of the outfits. Each picture 
of the man shows the pants fitting differently!

Gail Finke

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:48:54 EDT
Subject: H-COST: simplicity 8725
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com


Jessica wrote:

"While I have to give Simplicity and the designer credit for creating a 
pattern that at least does a better job of portraying the right look than 
any other pattern I've seen before that purports to be of the same time 
period, I can't help but wonder why they didn't just use a 
straightforward princess line pattern."

My guess is that to get the fullness of the skirt, they would have had to 
either make huge panels for the princess line version, or else use gores. 
Either one would be difficult -- or at least intimidating -- for a beginning 
sewer. Many outfits like this are for high school plays, etc., and they 
wouldn't want to put in anything too hard. Unlike some of those horribly 
complicated things Vogue does for little girl's dresses! I made a Vogue 
christening gown once, and it was the most complicated thing I've ever done. 
Anyway, I think the pattern company was looking at ease of sewing. 

Gail Finke

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From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cleaning fur
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

I know this is completely useless information, but I was taught at one time
how to clean and rejuvinate fur.  I believe it had something to do with
brushing it with cornstarch.  I will see if I can find the info next week.




Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 21:31:29 1999
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From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

Costuming for movies is costuming for look, not necessarily reality.  I
don't know what they did for all the actors' armor (though I recall
reading that many were in "rental" armor).  However, Joan of Arc's armor
was made specifically for her, as there wasn't any that might remotely
fit her...and they made two sets.  One was "real" armor, the other was
"rubber" (don't know what it really was made of, but that was what the
article mentioned).  And even that armor didn't fit her right (too tight
across the chest...made her sore).

My guess is that they did the best they could for the characters they
knew would be noticed the most, then just found what they could for the
others.  Considering the cost of armor, it's not an unreasonable thing
to do (makes Oscar dresses (in general) look cheap!).

Unfortunately, I don't remember where I read this, but it was probably
in one of the Washington Post's sections about the movie (which *could*
mean the TV Guide section).


-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 22:17:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:56:18 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Egyptian costume
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

       I believe it was on this list that someone asked about Egyptian
costume.  I know this is way late, but thought I'd post it in case it
should be of interest or help, even so.  Carol

>Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:49:45 -0400
>To: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>From: Phyllis Gilmore 

>For the person who was interested in Egyptian costume:
>
>Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank, Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd ed., New
>York:  Fairchild Publications, 1998.  ISBN 1-56367-142-5.
>
>I paid $66.95 for my copy at G Street Fabrics (they *finally* opened a
>store near my home--the place is huge).
>
>The Egyptian material is near the front.
>
>Note:  In addition, I've seen a photo (in a book whose title helpfully
>includes the word "textiles") of at least one *late period* sheath dress
>(not a wrap), found in a tomb, but I think it is so late as perhaps to be
>more Greek or Roman period than traditional--perhaps an interpretation of
>older dress to fit later standards of dress in public.  If you saw the
>History Channel bit on Cleopatra (not the miniseries, which I didn't see),
>it was rather like the dress the acress wore:  wide bands of fabric that
>appear gathered (or narrower) at the shoulders, then widen "triangularly"
>to cover the breasts, and are then sewn to the top of a skirt that starts
>just under the breats and falls straight to the ankles (it is NOT
>form-fitting--think of how the typical narrow-skirted Regency gown drapes).
>In short, you could easily walk in it, even briskly.  You could certainly
>do some kinds of dancing, but not (say) the high kicks you see in tomb
>paintings.
>
>Again, in judging what one sees in paintings, it is important to remember
>that  Egyptian art was not necessarily realistic.  Statues were more
>realistic than paintings, but even the sculptors were given to stylized
>representations.
>
>Phyllis (Philippa things powdered mummies are a medicine)
> 
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:02:48 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Cleaning fur
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:53:40 -1000
>Subject: H-COST: cleaning fur
>
>- -Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>	I recently found a couple of rabbit(?) fur jackets at Goodwill
>which I plan to take apart and turn into costume parts someday.  I'd like
>to clean them first and having absolutely no experience with fur, am
>supposing I should take them to a dry cleaner.  I don't think cleaners
>in Hawaii have much experience with fur either...
Reply:
>You probably want to get them professionally cleaned.  It will cost a
bundle, 
>though!  There might be one cleaner in Hawaii who does fur--even on the 
>mainland, cleaners send furs out to a central cleaner to do.  If you don't 
>feel it is worth the price, you can clean the fur part yourself.  I once
read 
>directions for putting a cleaning solution on a sponge and stroking the 
>hairs, but that was in the days when you could still buy carbon
tetrachloride 
>in big jugs.  And you really can't do the skin yourself.
>Ann Wass
>
You should be able to get them pretty clean yourself, but it may take time
and several steps.  If there are greasy-feeling places (back of neck,
wrists, etc.), the cleaning solvent on a sponge should work.  Don't wet the
skin if you can help it.  You should be able to get "Energine" which is
1,1,1 trichloroethane.  It should work the same as carbon tet.  

When this is dry, work cornstarch into the fur, let it set for a while,
then shake it out.  You may need to do this more than once.  Cornstarch
will absorb anything left on the fur without damaging it.  If you need to
clean the skin, work from the back (after disassembly) with saddle soap.
If the skin is dry or brittle, work a little mink oil into it.  (Both of
these should be available at  most stores, with the shoe polish.)  Test the
skin cleaning stuff on a small area first, of course.

Good luck!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed May 26 23:00:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:32:10 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cleaning fur
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990526205526.007cb9a0@intrepid.net>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:55 PM 5/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>I know this is completely useless information, but I was taught at one time
>how to clean and rejuvinate fur.  I believe it had something to do with
>brushing it with cornstarch.  I will see if I can find the info next week.
         Hmmm...I hadn't heard of it used on fur, but my grandmother said
they used to brush 
  CORNMEAL through their hair to take the oils and dirt out.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 01:07:02 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 02:14:45 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tea Gowns
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Anyone know of any pics or books illustration Victorian Tea Gowns ? Pref
1870s, but variations would be OK if not !

Oh any you vintage clothing collectors, my books say they were from light
weight fabrics, but were they backed in any way or were several foundation
garments worn ? From the discriptions they seem most indecent :0)

Thanks

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 06:42:21 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Cleaning fur
Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 07:54:13 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

I have some Alaskan native fur dolls where the hair has
fallen off some of the skins.  My guess is that the fur is
rabbit.  Does anyone know what causes this?  One of the
dolls is still intact, and I'd like to preserve them as well
as possible.  They were stored in plastic for a while, then
just loose with other things in a box. Thanks for help with
this.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 1999 12:03 AM
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Cleaning fur



-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:53:40 -1000
>Subject: H-COST: cleaning fur
>
>- -Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>	I recently found a couple of rabbit(?) fur jackets at
Goodwill
>which I plan to take apart and turn into costume parts
someday.  I'd like
>to clean them first and having absolutely no experience
with fur, am
>supposing I should take them to a dry cleaner.  I don't
think cleaners
>in Hawaii have much experience with fur either...
Reply:
>You probably want to get them professionally cleaned.  It
will cost a
bundle,
>though!  There might be one cleaner in Hawaii who does
fur--even on the
>mainland, cleaners send furs out to a central cleaner to
do.  If you don't
>feel it is worth the price, you can clean the fur part
yourself.  I once
read
>directions for putting a cleaning solution on a sponge and
stroking the
>hairs, but that was in the days when you could still buy
carbon
tetrachloride
>in big jugs.  And you really can't do the skin yourself.
>Ann Wass
>
You should be able to get them pretty clean yourself, but it
may take time
and several steps.  If there are greasy-feeling places (back
of neck,
wrists, etc.), the cleaning solvent on a sponge should work.
Don't wet the
skin if you can help it.  You should be able to get
"Energine" which is
1,1,1 trichloroethane.  It should work the same as carbon
tet.

When this is dry, work cornstarch into the fur, let it set
for a while,
then shake it out.  You may need to do this more than once.
Cornstarch
will absorb anything left on the fur without damaging it.
If you need to
clean the skin, work from the back (after disassembly) with
saddle soap.
If the skin is dry or brittle, work a little mink oil into
it.  (Both of
these should be available at  most stores, with the shoe
polish.)  Test the
skin cleaning stuff on a small area first, of course.

Good luck!

Sandy


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_____
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tea Gowns
Date: Thu, 27 May 99 08:05:52 -0000
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-Poster: margo king <mkings@earthlink.net>

Melanie - Don't have info on book references but..I have been searching 
ebay (collectibles, clothing, women, victorian) for outfits to wear 
during the Washington Antiques Show in Jan 2000 and there have been quite 
a few vic tea dresses listed. since most sellers post numerous picture 
and good descriptions - this might be a help.  Margo King
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 07:44:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 05:47:00 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Bust boostage/taping
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>

Quite a while ago I was talking about taping actors' breasts, and several
people requested details.  The same method might help with the chiton
problem, so here is what I know.

We learned this by working on very flat-chested women who, for reasons
known only to the director, had been cast as lush young things in the 1750s
play "She Stoops to Conquer."  They didn't have anything for the corsets to
uplift!  The goal was to displace virtually ALL of their breast tissue
upward above the nipple line so that we got some cleavage.  This required
uplifting and pulling to the center as much as possible.  The steel-boned
corsets themselves had very meaty "shoulder pads" to fill in the lower
breast area and push everything up.  However, these same taping principles
work for stabilizing larger breasts.

Surgical tape comes in several styles.  You can find ventilated types with
gentle adhesive.  Start by laying a baseline just below the lower breast
area to build from; this is like the band on a bra. Use several
side-to-side strips, with the longest reaching well around toward the back.
 The last side-to-side strips will be on the lower part of the breasts, and
if you have droopage you'll be building a "ramp" of support. (Think
"underwire" here.)  At this point you'll start pulling the breasts front
and center quite a bit if they're small, somewhat less so if they're large.
 (The main "aging" look for larger breasts isn't so much the droop--unless
it's drastic--but the spread to the sides.)  Using a U-shaped wrap method,
build the side parts of the "underwires."  It may be easiest when you first
do this to make half of the U on each side but you will soon learn to use
one piece from armpit to armpit.  Adjust breast position as you go.  (If
anyone is just reading this because they have a breast-flesh-and-tape
fetish, shoo!  Go find a website.)

The final strips are the "toppers" that go straight across.  If you're
going for cleavage, make them tight and put them as high as your neckline
allows.  Some final strips can also be laid just above or to the side of
the nipple and pulled upwards to create a "strap" effect if clothing
permits.  This is the most "custom" area of the structure.

This sounds like a lot of tape, and it will be a lot the first time or two
you do it.  However, you'll soon learn just which strips are really doing
the work and you can build a light bra in a few minutes.  I've always
wanted to try this with the stick-on bra cups as a base, but haven't bought
any yet.  I just HATE having any sort of band around my ribcage, so I've
worked with this method until it's efficient for me.

Removal blues can be eased by using a moisturizer on the most sensitive
areas and running the tape outward to less sensitive skin for anchoring.
The best tape remover is time and perspiration, of course.  The longer you
wear the tape, the easier it comes off.  Steaming the area with a warm,
moist hand towel makes it pretty easy.  Overall, the bandaid approach is
best... one yank and it's gone.

Whew.  I hope this all makes sense.

Leslie


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 06:04:05 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bust boostage/taping
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

       Leslie Helms posted re: how to tape.  Having read that post only
reinforces my thought that I'd rather used biascut bands or try the ace
bandages someone else here suggested.  I'm such a wimp... .  I have also
wondered if being taped like that wouldn't do bad things to the
musculature/skin if one did it very often/wore the taping like that for
very long.  Thank you, Leslie for that post, in any case.  Carol
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bust boostage/taping
Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:37:12 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Thank you! This is what I was looking for! I will try the various methods
described here so far and the flesh colored band as the Chiton is sheer.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 7:50 AM
Subject: H-COST: Bust boostage/taping


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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

>        I believe it was on this list that someone asked about Egyptian
> costume.  I know this is way late, but thought I'd post it in case it
> should be of interest or help, even so.  Carol
 
Thanks, Carol!

I've passed the info on to the person who asked me.

I appreciate it,

-betsy

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Web Mistress at large
WebInvent.com, Inc.

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 07:49:58 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bust boostage/taping
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslieh@canfield.com>

Forgot to mention a thought I had about the bandeau top idea.  A few bits
of tape to keep the breasts "front and center" would prevent the bandeau
from flattening them to the sides, so that you wouldn't lose shape entirely
in the search for support.  Bias sounds like a good idea, too.  And I'm
going to check out the flexible self-adhesive sport-wrap stuff that comes
off very easily.

Gee, I wonder if this is how the Egyptians got started on the whole
mummy-wrapping thing...

I took a class on Byzantine dress in which the instructor described a long
(like over 12 feet) strip of very light fabric used by Byzantine women as a
chest wrapping under their loose, flowing garments.  It's the only type of
foundation garment she could discover.  One suspects that most
loose-garment cultures had some equivalent.

Still trying to figure out what I'm doing up this early,
Leslie
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Subject: H-COST: egyptian
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<of at least one *late period* sheath dress
>(not a wrap), found in a tomb, but I think it is so late as perhaps to be
>more Greek or Roman period than traditional--perhaps an interpretation of
>older dress to fit later standards of dress in public.  >>

You may be referring to  Egyptian gowns or dresses in the Petrie Museum in
London. (unfortunately, closed at the moment for refurbishing.)

Two are from the same tomb: Deshasheh, fifth dynasty c 2494 - 2345 BC

Another is slightly earlier: Tarkhan Dress,  "the earliest gown in the
world." First dynasty, 3100 - 2890 BC.

All are archaeological pieces, obviously, and have been written up several
times. One reference:
Rosalind Hall, in Textile History 13 (1) (1982) 27 - 45


Deborah


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:36:04 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I thought the costumes were barely acceptable. Pretty dull and 
> uninteresting, although close enough to the period.

Except for the guy who was wearing 1520's Tudor!  =D

After the first half hour or so, I gave up on looking at the costumes and just tried to pay 
attention to the story. I kept seeing elements of costume that looked right, but weren't put 
together as a whole correctly. It was very weird...

--Jessica
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I did the same. I just excused it off as they were mostly shots of peasantry
so there is no telling  what they were able to afford to wear and cobble
together from trash and such.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: Jessica Wilbur <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc


:
:-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
:
:
:>
:> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
:>
:>
:>
:> Well, I thought the costumes were barely acceptable. Pretty dull and
:> uninteresting, although close enough to the period.
:
:Except for the guy who was wearing 1520's Tudor!  =D
:
:After the first half hour or so, I gave up on looking at the costumes and
just tried to pay
:attention to the story. I kept seeing elements of costume that looked
right, but weren't put
:together as a whole correctly. It was very weird...
:
:--Jessica
: _________________________________________________________________
: To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
: with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 11:40:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:56:47 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: carol huff <cahuff@mindspring.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:Bust boosting
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-Poster: carol huff <cahuff@mindspring.com>

Tape removal, painlessly.
No, Really, it works. Use mineral oil or baby oil, liberally smeared into
the tape. Breaks down the adhesive so it just comes off. A little powder
will remove the oil. How do I know? I run my whippets and have to tape
their tender little stop pads when the ground is hard and sun baked. They
*hate* having the tape pulled off 'cause it peels the hair right off the
leg--Nair anyone <G>. After the days running, I just soak the tape in
mineral oil and the tape has fallen off before we get home. Happy whippets,
happy owner <G>
Ta
Carol, off to set up the grounds for the weekends running!
Creative Clutter
is preferable to
 Idle Neatness


cahuff@mindspring.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 11:47:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:55:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc
In-Reply-To: <31c7da2e.247dfe80@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Wed, 26 May 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:
> PS: My husband just read this and said that the English armor was pretty 
> good. He wonders why the French, who were on screen so much, had such 
> inferior armor. Especially the loose, flappy mail hoods on principal 
> characters!

Could have something to do with why the French drive Renaults? ;)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 12:51:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 02:13:05 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: foundation support
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.4.02.9905261936150.14057-100000@plaid.engin.umich
 .edu>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I, too, have used these adhesive cups, having bought them at the
>department store Hudson's (aka Dayton's west of the Mississippi.) They
>worked well for me, but I had one heck of a time getting them off at the
>end of the evening. 

While we're on the topic, does anyone know a good way to get the adhesive
off after?  I remember wearing them to a formal event a number of years ago
and wound up being raw with all the different things I tried to get rid of
the sticky stuff.  (Soap & water didn't work!)

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 13:16:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 11:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Joan of Arc
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-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

> My husband, though, was disgusted with the armor,
> especially for the nobles. 
> And seeing as so much of the costuming WAS armor, I
> guess that means the 
> overall quality was pretty poor.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> PS: My husband just read this and said that the
> English armor was pretty 
> good. He wonders why the French, who were on screen
> so much, had such 
> inferior armor. Especially the loose, flappy mail
> hoods on principal 
> characters!
> 
It is my understanding (according to an interview with
Leelee Sobieski) that the armor was made by the last
armor-making family left in the Czech Republic, where
it was filmed, and they have amde armor since the
middle ages.

Kristen Morgaine sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS waht it's all about?
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: Question for you
Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:29:56 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

ok, can someone here direct her to a good source?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas

-----Original Message-----
From: SILSQUARE@aol.com <SILSQUARE@aol.com>
To: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Question for you


:Hello,
:
:I am designing  a show based on the San Quentin Six which is about (6) 
:inmates on deathrow in 1989.  I am looking for pictures on inmate & guard 
:uniforms during that time.  Where can I find pictures of prison uniforms 
:online?
:
:Thank you.
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 13:45:58 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:53:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: gifted student
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I'm entering late on this thread, I know. I, too, was in my school's gifted 
and talented program lo these many moons ago. I agree with Margo (I think it 
was Margo) -- the girl should certainly train for a more feasible career! But 
I think the parents need to be told that a high school student's interests 
don't necessarily indicate his or her future career. When I was in school, I 
had (serially) the burning desire to work with autistic children, to train 
the blind in orientation and mobility, and to study linguistics. I am now a 
writer.

I went to a liberal arts college, and the staff continually urged parents to 
let their children study whatever they liked. Studies show that liberal arts 
grads rarely have careers that correspond to their undergraduate major. The 
important thing, the profs said, was to study what you're really interested 
in and learn how to LEARN. So if this girl likes historic clothing, then she 
should study it! Almost any kind of study teaches the critical skills needed 
for effective school and career performance. Using her interest as a basis 
for study in many disciplines (art, design, sewing, social history, history, 
science, geography, etc., etc., etc.) could be a great way to get her to use 
her brain and talents!

Gail Finke

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tea Gowns
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 02:14 AM 5/27/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>Anyone know of any pics or books illustration Victorian Tea Gowns ? Pref
>1870s, but variations would be OK if not !
>
>Oh any you vintage clothing collectors, my books say they were from light
>weight fabrics, but were they backed in any way or were several foundation
>garments worn ? From the discriptions they seem most indecent :0)

I'm currently researching 1880's wrappers (need a gardening outfit), which
are the more casual version of tea gowns.   Some of them are also made in
very light fabrics.  

Tea gowns or wrappers were  worn over underwear.  A chemise or camisole,
drawers,  and  at least one petticoat should be worn.  

Most wrappers seem to have had an inner bodice, fitted to the body with
darts, that hooked or laced in front and might provide enough support that a
corset can be dispensed with.  The gown is usually attached to it at the
side seams or darts to pull it in closely at the sides, even if the front
and back flow freely.  

"Calico Chronicle" by Betty Mills has a number of pictures of 19th century
wrappers and tea gowns.  

Margo Anderson

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: Question for you
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I don't think I would try on-line but go to the periodicals of the 
period--Time, Newsweek, etc.  
Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:54:51 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Tea Gowns and Wrappers
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-Poster: ArcadiaCB@aol.com

Dover publishes several books that show wrappers and tea gowns---
  "Victorian Fashions & Costumes from Harpers Bazar 1867--1898"
   "American Dress pattern Catalogs, 1873--1909"
   "Butterick's 1892 Metroploitan Fashions"
   " Bloomingdale's Ilustrated 1886 Catalog"
plus I'm several other of their reprinted sources as well (not really my 
period so I don't have them all, but I know ther are others)

 Plus that wonderful reference--the reprints of the late 19th and  early 20th 
 century Sears catalogues. 

  These are all wonderful resources since it shows what people REALLY wore 
with the mail order catalogus and home sewing patterns.

Charlene 
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From: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 26 May 99 23:16:25 
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-Poster: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>

On Wed, 26 May 1999 12:20:37 -0500, Franchesca Havas wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>
>Ok, so I did not know how to title this. I am embarrassed to ask this but I
>gotta know. I need help. This weekend I am wearing a Chiton. ...[goes on to ask how to support her breasts]

Milady,

While I know you asked for help in finding a way to support your bosom buddies in a modern way, I thought 
you might like to know how the ancient Greeks did it.  They would take a band of cloth (I'm guessing 4-6" 
wide by long enough to wrap around at least once and tie) and wrap it snugly around or just under the 
breasts, depending on weather the fashion was for the flat look or the perky look.  In Sparta, they even used 
leather bandeaus (shudder, shudder!)!  I have no idea how they kept the bandeau up when they wrapped it 
under the breasts; when I tried that, it slipped every time I exhaled.  Maybe they put straps on it or something.  
Unfortunately, I couldn't tell you where I picked up that little tidbit; it was some time ago and I didn't think I'd 
ever need to tell anyone about it.  Given the right cloth (I'm thinking a cotton flannel or better yet a 
much-loved linen) and some straps, I think this would be far more comfortable than most mundane bras and 
would have the added benefit of giving the proper silouette to early period or flapper-era garb.

If you would rather go with a more modern way of fixing your problem, I would suggest using safety pins on the 
underside of your chiton to line your bra strap up with the overlap, where your front and back come together.  
Its simple enough and has to be more comfortable than tape and glue!

Yours in Service,
	Arianne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 20:17:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:23:10 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sort of OT, yellowed silk?
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

The instructions require hot (simmering) water. Sorry.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 20:28:49 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:35:00 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Polish gowns
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I don't know if you can order the catalog, but here's the LC information.

Land of the Winged Horsemen: art in Poland, 1572-1764/Jan K. Ostrowski...[et 
al.] translated by Krystyna Malcharek.  ISBN 0-88397-131-3

You might be able to get a copy through the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore.

Cheers,
Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 20:59:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:02:59 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: From Jupon to zipun
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

David -- I would say that the terms are related, although the meaning may 
have changed over the years. After all, there was a lot of commerce 
throughout Europe and it seems that all cultures came together in Italy. 

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 20:59:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:07:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE Cotton
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Cotton wool, i.e., raw cotton (so called because it resembled lamb's wool) 
was frequently used as batting or padding for garments. 

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 20:59:49 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:08:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Bliaut pictures?
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Does anyone know of any online pictures of women's
bliauts?  Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?



_________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 22:07:05 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Cleaning fur
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990526230248.00d60ec0@radiks.net>
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> >You probably want to get them professionally cleaned.  It will cost a
> bundle, 
> >though!  There might be one cleaner in Hawaii who does fur--even on the 
> >mainland, cleaners send furs out to a central cleaner to do. 

	Boy, oh boy is this true.  I called all over and found only one on
the whole island who will clean fur.  It's located in one of the Hilton
hotels in Waikiki which probably makes it even MORE expensive.

	Thank you to everyone who sent or posted suggestions; I think I'll
be trying some of them.

--lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu May 27 22:11:18 1999
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 23:18:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Journey to the Centre of the Earth
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Christopher -- What or who are YOU playing?

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 08:35:12 1999
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From: kat <kat@janrix.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Cleaning fur
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:33:01 -0400
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-Poster: kat <kat@janrix.com>

Hair loss is caused by one of two things:
In the case of soft fur, like rabbit, the hide is drying out. You can use 
mink oil on the hide side, or you can spritz it with glycerine to soften 
the hide and re-moistureize it.

In creatures like deer, the 'fur' is hollow core hair. What's happening is 
the hair is breaking off. There's no way to prevent this from happening.

Kat Hargus
owner, Making Time
www.makingtime.com


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end

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 08:54:03 1999
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From: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>
Subject: H-COST: A much better Joan of Arc
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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

Hello,

In following this discussion of the costumes in the current television movie 
"Joan of Arc" I was surprised at how most people seemed to accept that this 
was as good as it gets as far as medieval films made by Hollywood go. It 
isn't. A much better Joan of Arc film was made in 1948, starring Ingrid 
Bergman, and really must be seen alongside this recent half-hearted effort to 
be appreciated.

Ingrid Bergman, it seems, loved Joan of Arc. She played Joan several times on 
stage, and was a major force behind the making of this film (titled "Joan of 
Arc"). She used her own money to pay for half the film's cost and drove 
everyone to strive for accuracy in the production design. The film's costumes 
are beautiful, and seem to owe as much to the wonderful children's book of the 
1890's by the French author and illustrator Louis-Maurice Boutet de Monvel 
(reprinted sometime in the 1980's) as it does to medieval illuminations. 
Bergman was determined that this film would get things right, down to even 
having dog-collars made in the medieval form. The men all shaved their heads 
into the bowl-shaped cut fashionable then (Jose Ferrer looks wonderful as the 
Dauphin). Most impressively, Bergman had her armor made by the Metropolitan 
Museum of Art's arms and armor section. They fabricated it out of aluminum 
rather than steel, but even then it weighed 25 lbs. Admittedly, the whole film 
is rather stagey in its look and old fashioned in its acting, but I've watched 
it again and again just for the beauty and unusual accuracy of its production 
design.

My feeling has always been that, if a modern treatment of a theme cannot be 
done better than an earlier effort - why bother? This does not seem to have 
much weight in Hollywood. I recently saw a New Yorker cartoon that rather sums 
it up. A filmaker is pitching his idea to a producer in Hollywood, leaning 
forward very earnestly and saying "I know it's been done, but has it been 
redone?" 

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 09:39:11 1999
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From: kang77@airmail.net
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: foundation support
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-Poster: kang77@airmail.net

Danielle Nunn wrote:

> While we're on the topic, does anyone know a good way to get the adhesive
> off after?  I remember wearing them to a formal event a number of years ago
> and wound up being raw with all the different things I tried to get rid of
> the sticky stuff.  (Soap & water didn't work!)


Baby oil.  LOTS of baby oil.  And perseverence.  Otherwise, if you're
anything like me, you'll be wanting lots of hydrocortisone cream the
next day.  Trust me on this.  If you have a husband or S.O., they're
usually more than happy to help with application of either.

Frost
who just found this out this past weekend . . .


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 09:54:39 1999
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From: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Changes.
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 11:06:41 -0400
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-Poster: "Sarah Toney" <toneys@rentgrow.com>

I'm changing my addy... from this one to Sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com... just so
you all know it's not a new person, just lil 'ol Sarah. ;-)

Have a great day!

Sarah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 10:57:55 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A much better Joan of Arc
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 18:04:56 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi List,

David wrote:
> In following this discussion of the costumes in the current television
movie 
> "Joan of Arc" I was surprised at how most people seemed to accept that
this 
> was as good as it gets as far as medieval films made by Hollywood go. It 
> isn't. A much better Joan of Arc film was made in 1948, starring Ingrid 
> Bergman, and really must be seen alongside this recent half-hearted
effort to 
> be appreciated.
> 
> Ingrid Bergman, it seems, loved Joan of Arc. She played Joan several
times on 
> stage, and was a major force behind the making of this film (titled "Joan
of 
> Arc"). She used her own money to pay for half the film's cost and drove 
> everyone to strive for accuracy in the production design. The film's
costumes 
> are beautiful, and seem to owe as much to the wonderful children's book
of the 
> 1890's by the French author and illustrator Louis-Maurice Boutet de
Monvel 
> (reprinted sometime in the 1980's) as it does to medieval illuminations. 
> Bergman was determined that this film would get things right, down to
even 
> having dog-collars made in the medieval form. The men all shaved their
heads 
> into the bowl-shaped cut fashionable then (Jose Ferrer looks wonderful as
the 
> Dauphin). Most impressively, Bergman had her armor made by the
Metropolitan 
> Museum of Art's arms and armor section. They fabricated it out of
aluminum 
> rather than steel, but even then it weighed 25 lbs. Admittedly, the whole
film 
> is rather stagey in its look and old fashioned in its acting, but I've
watched 
> it again and again just for the beauty and unusual accuracy of its
production 
> design.
> 
While we haven't yet had the new JoA production, I have seen the 1948 only
last december. I taped it from the BBC then and started looking at it with
my notebook and pen at the ready. One of the first shots was one of Jehanne
in an impossible outfit: a closefitting, wide necked gray jacket with short
sleeves closed by 3 pairs of (leather) laces, a seperate and shortish red
skirt and a white peasantlike blouse, a 16th c type headscarve, etc. After
this came the usual rough woollen rural clothing of her family, everybody
had very wide (2-3 inch) leather belts, hardly any nobles had pleated
(cartridge or otherwise) houppelandes or jackets, soldiers had skimpy vests
with studs instead of stiff brigandines, helmets were often of the wrong
period and to close it all the coat of arms of England was painted wrong.
After that I forgot about noting down costume and concentrated on the
acting. It was static and sentimental but there were some nice scenes in
it. No, I did not think this a good period movie. I was more impressed by a
French series, of which I only saw one part of one episode, some years
back. It had wonderful armour at the siege of Orleans.

> My feeling has always been that, if a modern treatment of a theme cannot
be 
> done better than an earlier effort - why bother? This does not seem to
have 
> much weight in Hollywood. I recently saw a New Yorker cartoon that rather
sums 
> it up. A filmaker is pitching his idea to a producer in Hollywood,
leaning 
> forward very earnestly and saying "I know it's been done, but has it been

> redone?" 

It says it all ;-)

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 14:17:58 1999
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 14:28:06 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Hancock's Simplicity Sale and What I Bought There <grin>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I didn't go *completely* wild...but I did end up with:
8725 cotehardie & gates of hell...btw they show how to make button
loops, there are NO zippers in this one!! YAY!

8728 companion to above...three headpieces & a court cloak

8715 bodice, shirt, skirt & headpeice...smaller sizes of earlier patt.

8735 faked Italian ren but easy enough to make an actual chemise and I
like the sleeve pieces...*does* have the dreaded zippers <blech!>

8615 men's begotten shirt...three styles that I'll mix & match <grin>

8640 Retro...I'm actually going to end up using the top as the base of a
science fiction costume

8643 Retro again...decent

8739 Retro 20's doesn't have hat but four dress variations

8776 Retro 20's dress in two lengths with bag (la de da)

7178 a mandarin top/dress with several variations & pants...again I'll
be using this for SF costuming...well, and depending on what plays Dad
does for his Fall productions (Spring is *always* Shakespeare!)

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 21:42:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 22:50:02 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Fw: Question for you
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-Poster: Simone89@aol.com

Call Death Penalty Focus in California - can't remember whether they are in 
San Francisco or Los Angeles, but they probably have pictures.  Every state 
has different
uniforms for guards and death row prisoners so she needs the California
ones rather than generic ones.
Simone
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri May 28 23:21:58 1999
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

Check these out on ebay: I'm just starting to clean house.

La Chaussure (history of shoes)
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107486913

Historic Costume for the Stage
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107516665

Elizabethan Pageantry by Morse
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107519509

Costume 1977 Costume Society Journal
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107531109

Man in the Bowler Hat (history of the Bowler hat)
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107608171

History of Jewish Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=107954471

Palestinian  Costume
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=108009432

Fashion in The French Revollution 1780's
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=108567507

Elizabethan & Jacobean Costume 1559-1625
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=108592737

Mode In Furs
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=108611153

Revolutionary Costume - Soviet
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110540414

Lois

Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 29 08:37:30 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Speaking of books, is there one that deals with the variations in
Catholic religious habits through the years, or is it strictly "hide and
seek" to find info?  So far, I've had to costume three operas (scenes
only) having three different orders/time periods of nuns habits, and I'd
be willing to add a reference book to my library.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I need to make an 1880's  costume for a six year old boy in the next week,
which means I don't have time to ILL anything.  He's portraying a child in a
small town in Northern California, of comfortable middle class, going about
his everyday activities, not a dressed up occasion.     I've looked at a
number of photos, and it seems that what he needs is a wide collared shirt
that buttons onto knee length pants, which taper toward the knee and button,
not gathering like knickers, worn with long stockings and high  shoes. .  Do
I have that right?

Here's my questions:  Do the button on pants have a fly front or other
opening, or are they just loose enough to push down when needed?  I have
some from the 20's that have buttoned plackets on each side, would that be
appropriate? 

 Given that it's going to be very very hot, does he have to wear stockings?

As for the boots, I'm going to check out the discount shoe places and see if
I can find some girl's boots that will work.  If I can't, I suppose I can
make some kind of spats to go over shoes and fake it.  At the rate his feet
grow, I don't want to spend much.  Any other suggestions for reasonable
footwear?

Thanks,

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 29 16:25:14 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

>Call Death Penalty Focus in California - can't remember whether they are in
>San Francisco or Los Angeles, but they probably have pictures.  Every state
>has different

You might do better by looking for a website for the California
Dept. of Corrections. Death row guards wear the same uniforms
as any other State correctional officer (not nec. sheriff's
deputies and such) It's basically khaki with appropriate insignia.
In the winter, it used to be a sort of army-green wool. Don't
know if that still holds true. It isn't very cold in Marin 
county in the winter so maybe they don't wear the wool uniforms.

I don't know about death row, but regular inmates wear
blue jeans and chambray shirts.

Susan F.
(in case you're wondering, my dad worked for the dept. for
25 years (not San Quentin) so I saw a lot of uniforms)

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>


-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Speaking of books, is there one that deals with the variations in
Catholic religious habits through the years, or is it strictly "hide and
seek" to find info?  
 
Boy, I'll second that one.  I've done years of research for Catholic 
habits and vestments of all eras and I've yet to find a source of 
good compiled information.
Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 29 19:24:53 1999
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Subject: H-COST: (Books) Old habits die hard...
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-Poster: lynnx@mc.net

...but I really need to make a new one.  (My SCA persona is a nun.) 
 
Please forgive the "me-too", but I could also use such a ref.  Male
ecclesiastical garb info is all over the place, but the info Out There
for nuns is *so* skimpy!

Meanwhise, Janice, whenever I've seen the subject come up on a list,
people usually suggest finding a current convent (or whatever) of the
same order the person's portraying and asking what they know.  If
they're wearing a floor-length habit, you might be looking at all the
info you need.  Some orders' habits don't change much over the
centuries.

***INCOMPLETE DOCUMENTATION ALERT***  The following braindump is *not*
AP (Authenticity Police) Approved!!  But I hope it helps somewhat until
we can find some *decent* info:

If your play doesn't specify which order (i.e. Poor Clares (sp?),
Benedictine, etc.) you're portraying, or the author made it up, you're
pretty much free to phudge it:  Nuns' habits either followed the lines
of the current local fashion, especially for a rich woman (cf. Chaucer's
Prioresse) who either started a convent on being widowed or was put
there by Daddy "to keep her out of trouble" or whatever - or joined to
get *away* from Daddy who was about to marry her off to some pizza-faced
lordling with bad breath and no personality!  The styles would be more
conservative, covering more and of course in Basic Black.

Or they wore a fairly plain "chemise" or kirtle type thing under a
wide-sleeved "monk robe" (usually without the hood) and the ubiquitous
wimple (almost always white) and a black or white veil over that.  Oh
yeah, and the floor-length tabard over the "monk robe" dress.  ***Not
belted!!!***  If worn at all, the belt, cord or whatever went around the
waist of the outer dress, under the tabard.  (I think I saw a painting
or something once where the belt/cord went around under the front of the
tabard and over in the back, probly to keep it under control.) 
Sometimes they also wore fairly plain cloaks.

Also, it looks like some orders had more than one style, depending on
occasion, rank, etc.  Newbies might wear white and simple garb, then
"trade up" in some kind of initiation ceremony after a period of
training.
***END IMPERFECT DOCUMENTION ALERT*** 

Hoping something in here justifies the bandwidth,
Heather (SCA Sister Ed the Disorganized)

>  -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
> 
> Speaking of books, is there one that deals with the variations in
> Catholic religious habits through the years, or is it strictly "hide 
> and seek" to find info?
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Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 20:45:05 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880's boy's wear
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 5/29/99 11:16:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<<  Do the button on pants have a fly front or other
 opening, or are they just loose enough to push down when needed? >>

I have some pants from the TOC [still...it's all true of the 1880s as well] 
that are full fall: IOW, they button at each side seam. They also button to 
the shirt....which is not blousey [actually it's a sailor top....but it might 
as well be a linen shirt with a frilly collar] forming a "skeleton suit". 
Usually, I think, the buttons go on the outside of the shirt, sometimes on a 
waistband, and show as they button thru holes in the pants, which sometimes 
DON'T have a waistband. A 3/4" to 1" 2 or 4 hole "bone" button at each side 
front & side back will do. It's a great detail.

I also have a picture of two boys in the 1880s in Glenn plaid Norfolk jackets 
[with the belt & pleats, y'know] & pleated skirts to the knee of the same 
plaid. One has a plaid sailor collar. I'm not sure if 6 years old is too old 
for dresses....also, you don't want to distract from the character....but 
what great outfits!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 29 20:06:36 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: (Books) Old habits die hard...
Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:18:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


-Greetings!

Just to throw some more info into the mix:
>The styles would be more
>conservative, covering more and of course in Basic Black.


A *lot* of nuns actually wore white.  Dominican nuns did, and there were a
*lot* of Dominican nuns. Or white with a black scapular (any order
associated with the Cistercians).  If you can find the male order associated
with a particular order of nuns, *usually* the women's dress is in the same
color scheme and combination of garments.

>Or they wore a fairly plain "chemise" or kirtle type thing under a
>wide-sleeved "monk robe" (usually without the hood) and the ubiquitous
>wimple (almost always white) and a black or white veil over that.

Novices and lay sisters wore the white veil alone.  Fully consecrated "choir
nuns" wore the black veil over the white one.

> Oh yeah, and the floor-length tabard over the "monk robe" dress.

That's your scapular. Its origins are as a work apron, and it was worn by
religious of both sexes.

Most of what I've picked up on nuns' clothing comes from a couple of papers
I heard at the Kalamazoo Medieval Studies conference.  Interestingly enough,
apparently the clothing also confused illuminators, who often got the colors
and garments wrong on the nuns they portrayed in thier works....

Susan Carroll-Clark


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat May 29 23:56:36 1999
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>When this is dry, work cornstarch into the fur, let it set for a while,
then >shake it out. 

Oops, meant cornmeal.  Sorry.

Sandy

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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

My digest seemed to be complete, but had a WINMAIL.DAT file attached which I 
cannot seem to open successfully.  What is in it and what program was it 
written in?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 16:11:53 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm working on a pattern for a wrapper similar to the one at this URL:
http://www.victoriana.com/antiques/cost2/c2205.htm

I have a 1992 Deliniator that describes the patterns for several wrappers.
the standard cut seems to be  flat or pleated fronts, with or without a
yoke,  with a center front opening either just below the waist or to the
hem, , no side seams, side back gores and a center back panel with a box
pleated Watteu effect.  The underbodice laces and is fitted with two front
bust darts.  the underbodice and the dress are darted together with long
darts from armscye to hip.

My question is, at the sides of the dress you can see that the stripes are
on the bias.  How does this happen? Are the side gores bias panels seamed to
a center back panel, and if so, is that center panel cut on the straight
grain or is it also bias?  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 17:16:46 1999
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-Poster: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>


I didn't think they were still publishing the Delineator in 1992.
Sorry, I just hadda say it...

-Lisa

>
>
> I have a 1992 Deliniator that describes the patterns for several wrappers.
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 17:20:42 1999
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From: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Louise of Lorraine (1575) Portrait?
Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 08:34:10 +1000
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-Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>

Greetings all,

Could someone please assist the next Princess of Lochac track down the
following portrait?

Thanks
Mel.
> ----------
> Hello, cheery woman here,
> You all know that I am ever so slightly desperate for some good frock 
> ideas, so it will come as no surprise to learn that I am desperately 
> searching for a portrait of Louise of Lorraine, also known as Louise de 
> Vaudemont, Queen of France in the late 16th century. The portrait I am 
> looking for would be from around 1575, and slightly odd in that it has 
> the turned-back sleeves of French 1530s frocks. There is a drawing of 
> it in Herbert Norris'  Tudor Fashion.
> 
> I would be very, very grateful if anyone could find a copy of the 
> original painting(s). Norris alleges that there are many paintings of 
> her in this style of gown, I just want the one. I know that it's a 
> teeny tiny possibility, but does this ring a bell with anyone? I'll 
> happily pay for colour photocopies/hunt down the book on my own 
> time/arrange for an inter-library loan, whatever it takes!
> 
> Thanks very much, this is what happens when your consort realises he's 
> as good as you've been telling him he is...
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 18:18:23 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

But they should have been.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 18:28:39 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com, "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Louise of Lorraine (1575) Portrait?
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Well, neither _The Book of Costume_ by Milla Davenport nor _Le Costume Civil
en France_ by Camille Piton has such a portrait. There *are* portraits of
Louise (queen to Henri III), but nothing showing any turned-back sleeves.
There are various styles of oversleeves and hanging sleeves. This may well
be one of those things where Norris needs to be corrected.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 08:34 AM 05/31/1999 +1000, HICKS, MELISSA wrote:
>
>-Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>Could someone please assist the next Princess of Lochac track down the
>following portrait?
>
>Thanks
>Mel.
>> ----------
>> Hello, cheery woman here,
>> You all know that I am ever so slightly desperate for some good frock 
>> ideas, so it will come as no surprise to learn that I am desperately 
>> searching for a portrait of Louise of Lorraine, also known as Louise de 
>> Vaudemont, Queen of France in the late 16th century. The portrait I am 
>> looking for would be from around 1575, and slightly odd in that it has 
>> the turned-back sleeves of French 1530s frocks. There is a drawing of 
>> it in Herbert Norris'  Tudor Fashion.
>> 
>> I would be very, very grateful if anyone could find a copy of the 
>> original painting(s). Norris alleges that there are many paintings of 
>> her in this style of gown, I just want the one. I know that it's a 
>> teeny tiny possibility, but does this ring a bell with anyone? I'll 
>> happily pay for colour photocopies/hunt down the book on my own 
>> time/arrange for an inter-library loan, whatever it takes!
>> 
>> Thanks very much, this is what happens when your consort realises he's 
>> as good as you've been telling him he is...

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 19:12:27 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wrapper question
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:24 PM 05/30/1999 -0800, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>I'm working on a pattern for a wrapper similar to the one at this URL:
>http://www.victoriana.com/antiques/cost2/c2205.htm
>
>I have a 1992 Deliniator that describes the patterns for several wrappers.
>the standard cut seems to be  flat or pleated fronts, with or without a
>yoke,  with a center front opening either just below the waist or to the
>hem, , no side seams, side back gores and a center back panel with a box
>pleated Watteu effect.  The underbodice laces and is fitted with two front
>bust darts.  the underbodice and the dress are darted together with long
>darts from armscye to hip.
>
>My question is, at the sides of the dress you can see that the stripes are
>on the bias.  How does this happen? Are the side gores bias panels seamed to
>a center back panel, and if so, is that center panel cut on the straight
>grain or is it also bias?  
>
>Margo

The bias stripes must be the side or side-back gores. Both the fronts and
the back would be straight lengths from neck to hem (or in the picture,
ruffle). It looks like the slanted side of the gores are seamed to the
straight of the fronts. Too bad there isn't one more picture of the dress
from the back or the side <g>. 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A
>
>The bias stripes must be the side or side-back gores. Both the fronts and
>the back would be straight lengths from neck to hem (or in the picture,
>ruffle). It looks like the slanted side of the gores are seamed to the
>straight of the fronts. 

I couldn't figure out at first why they would have put vertical stripes on
the back and front and bias ones on the sides.  Today I was looking at
pictures of more fashionable gowns of the period and realized that the
bustle drapery often resulted in striped or plaid fabrics ending up with a
bit on the sides hanging on the bias.  So, the bias panels on the sides of
this dress are probably cut that way to suggest the fashionable ideal!

Margo

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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE Cotton
Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 22:34:45 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

>"Whilst discussing the doublet-makers (known as giubbonari, zuparii
or
>giubbettieri), Newton relates after 1219 they were governed by
similar rules
>to other types of tailor. She notes that "materials other then
cloth -
>leather and cotton-wool, for instance" were used in making doublets,
or
>zupon. Like other tailors, they were not allowed to mix old cloth
with new
>in construction of outer garments, and were also not allowed "to mix
old and
>new bombacinum to use as padding". "
>
>(bombacinum was used for 'cottonwool') And it was also sold outside
Italy in
>Spain;

To follow up on this thread (hopefully I'm not treading on other's
paths), I too have a problem with the term "cottonwool". I would
translate "Bombacinum" as "bombast" - which could be anything,
including bran or horsehair. I'd like to see more information on the
"cottoning" technique used on wool - does it mean fuzzing up or
carding the wool enough to make it pad well?

Thanks!

Eve Harris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun May 30 21:42:37 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: j of arc armor
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I really can't see that armor having been made by an armor-making family in 
the Czeck republic. Maybe the original pieces were, but most of the armor I 
saw was not made of metal, it was that plastic or resin or whatever they use 
in costume departments (Albert Cat??). It looks good, but it doesn't look THE 
SAME, especially on film.

On the other hand, I really liked "Cleopatra," at least the first hour. Still 
have to get through the tape of the other 3. The Roman armor looked good to 
me, and the Roman swords were just like real Roman swords, nice and short. 
Not the stock swords I would have expected. My husband especially liked the 
bow they tied around the waist -- he doesn't know what it's called but he was 
very excited to see it. The women's dresses looked good to me, too, though I 
don't know much about what they really looked like. Cleopatra and her sister 
looked just like the paintings I've seen. Of course, I can't answer for the 
other three hours!

Gail Finke



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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:34 PM 05/30/1999 -0400, David Stamper & Eve Harris wrote:
[snip] I'd like to see more information on the
>"cottoning" technique used on wool - does it mean fuzzing up or
>carding the wool enough to make it pad well?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Eve Harris

To "cotton" the wool is to raise the nap using teasels (set in a small hand
frame until the 18th or 19th century); once the nap is raised, it is then
sheared evenly (a very skilled job that also required quite a bit of
strength). There are illustrations of this in the Diderot Encyclopedia.



Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>


Re: religious books.

Hmmm.. I have/had a missal that described the vestments and garments and
how and where they go... 

But the thing that I have found is that the garments don't change much,
except for fabric.... the only exeption would be.. that is a different
neckline/fit was more popular, that the makers would tweak the garment to
be fashionable.... 

at least that is what i have found with the masonic garments., and the
other garments I have run across.  

I get to hang out in a couple churches when i work on resoration projects,
etc, I'll keep my eyes open... and I also have connections to a dealer who
has specialty on religious garments/artifacts.

ciao,
sarahj

**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**


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From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: H-COST: Re: nuns' habits in illuminations
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

>- -Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
>
...
>A *lot* of nuns actually wore white.  

Still do. You see a lot of them at pilgrim towns in Italy. 

> Interestingly enough,
>apparently the clothing also confused illuminators, who often got the colors
>and garments wrong on the nuns they portrayed in thier works....

That may be because medieval illuminations in prayer books, bibles, etc.,
are not meant to depict reality authentically, but to make an appropriate
frame for the religious content of the book. So, human figures are often
depicted with "elevated" social status (which includes their garments) and
more beautifully colored clothes.

Barbara Maren
--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:25:34 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Opinions, please
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

  What do you think of :
  Hokeboer, Katherine Strand.  Patterns for theatrical costumes : ... .
N.Y. : Costume & Fashion Press, c1998 [orig. c1984].  ISBN: 0896761258 :
$29.95 pbk.  LCCN: 92-34985     ???
  Thank you each and every one who responds.  
Carol
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Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:37:04 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Dear Carol,
I use this book a lot for theatrical period costume.  Just don't assume
you can graph up and immediately use it.  You'd be amazed at how many
errors pop up when you blow a pattern up that much.  Think of it as a
prototype and adjust accordingly.  It does require a knowledge of sewing
techniques plus good guesswork.  I consider it one of my "basic" books.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

I've used several patterns from the book, to make hystericals.

If you're looking for something that will give a general idea of the
silhouette, it's not bad. And it does give you some ideas for what might
be appropriate.

Just remember to make at least one muslin/mock-up before cutting the
real fabric!

YMMV

-betsy


Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
>   What do you think of :
>   Hokeboer, Katherine Strand.  Patterns for theatrical costumes : ... .
> N.Y. : Costume & Fashion Press, c1998 [orig. c1984].  ISBN: 0896761258 :
> $29.95 pbk.  LCCN: 92-34985     ???
>   Thank you each and every one who responds.
> Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Web Mistress at large
WebInvent.com, Inc.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 31 21:02:04 1999
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From: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
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-Poster: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>

> Betsy-

Please tell-what's a hysterical??

-Lisa

> I've used several patterns from the book, to make hystericals.
>
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 31 21:16:23 1999
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-Poster: Betsy Delaney <betsy@hawkeswood.com>

"Hysterical (n): A costume based on a period garment, that is
constructed from a non-period pattern, or non-period fabric, or both."

My name for the kinds of "historic" garments I make most often, because
I was too lame to do the proper research, or because I found the right
kind of fabric but didn't have enough to do the job properly.

It's how I describe such costumes to people who don't know and ask. That
way, it's not false advertising. 8-)

-betsy

Deborah & Lisa R. wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
> 
> > Betsy-
> 
> Please tell-what's a hysterical??
> 
> -Lisa
> 
> > I've used several patterns from the book, to make hystericals.
> >
> >
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Web Mistress at large
WebInvent.com, Inc.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 31 21:31:41 1999
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From: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
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References: <E10ocMx-0005vJ-00@mongoose.slip.net> <37533D55.DE53E7FE@hawkeswood.com> <37533F93.6C68597B@gti.net> <3753440B.8D39DBF@hawkeswood.com>
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-Poster: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>

 OK- I get the pic. I thought it might be an  industry term I'd never heard
before.

-Lisa.


> "Hysterical (n): A costume based on a period garment, that is
> constructed from a non-period pattern, or non-period fabric, or both."
>
> My name for the kinds of "historic" garments I make most often, because
> I was too lame to do the proper research, or because I found the right
> kind of fabric but didn't have enough to do the job properly.
>
> It's how I describe such costumes to people who don't know and ask. That
> way, it's not false advertising. 8-)
>
> -betsy
>
> Deborah & Lisa R. wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: "Deborah & Lisa R." <martyr@gti.net>
> >
> > > Betsy-
> >
> > Please tell-what's a hysterical??
> >
> > -Lisa
> >
> > > I've used several patterns from the book, to make hystericals.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> --
> Betsy R. Delaney
> Web Mistress at large
> WebInvent.com, Inc.
>
> ************************************************************************
> mailto:WebInvent@WebInvent.com or visit http://www.WebInvent.com/
> mailto:Costume-Con@Costume-Con.org or visit http://www.Costume-Con.org/
> mailto:betsy@hawkeswood.com or visit http://www.hawkeswood.com/
> ************************************************************************
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 31 22:46:39 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: j of arc armor
Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:53:17 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I saw on the news stand today, that Renn magazine has a behind-the-scenes
article on J of A.  You might want to check it out.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon May 31 23:33:35 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Scottish Play
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-Poster: PiranhaBB@aol.com

I'm interested in doing a Scottish Renaissance costume.... any suggestions as 
to how I could make a surcote look "Scottish". 

Cheers,

Lisa
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 00:18:31 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wrapper question
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:08:35 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

The wide bias band on the bottom of the wrapper seems to lap
over 18" or 24" and then close.  Seems so impractical.  Am I
understanding this right?  It's as if someone thought it
would be too suggestive to run the front opening straight
from top to bottom.
But perhaps I read too much into this.  Comments?

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 11:20 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wrapper question



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A
>
>The bias stripes must be the side or side-back gores. Both
the fronts and
>the back would be straight lengths from neck to hem (or in
the picture,
>ruffle). It looks like the slanted side of the gores are
seamed to the
>straight of the fronts.

I couldn't figure out at first why they would have put
vertical stripes on
the back and front and bias ones on the sides.  Today I was
looking at
pictures of more fashionable gowns of the period and
realized that the
bustle drapery often resulted in striped or plaid fabrics
ending up with a
bit on the sides hanging on the bias.  So, the bias panels
on the sides of
this dress are probably cut that way to suggest the
fashionable ideal!

Margo


____________________________________________________________
_____
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 00:03:03 -0700
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-Poster: Scott Hulett <mhull@earthlink.net>


--------------3DDF2037C291B61A49DB01F8
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dear Group,
    Seems like some folks are doing some spring cleaning! Well, it's
infectious. I've done some too. I just listed some period patterns uncut
in the original envelopes on ebay. All of my listing can be seen here:
eBay Seller List: mhull@earthlink.net .
There are a few needlepoint books as well. Good luck to all of us.
Hope you all had a great weekend.
cheers, jd

--------------3DDF2037C291B61A49DB01F8
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Dear Group,
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Seems like some folks are doing some spring cleaning!
Well, it's infectious. I've done some too. I just listed some period patterns
uncut in the original envelopes on ebay. All of my listing can be seen
here:&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=mhull%40earthlink.net&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25">eBay
Seller List: mhull@earthlink.net</a> .
<br>There are a few needlepoint books as well. Good luck to all of us.
<br>Hope you all had a great weekend.
<br>cheers, jd</html>

--------------3DDF2037C291B61A49DB01F8--

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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Just read that NBC plans to film a minseries based on on a novel by 
Robin Maxwell called The Secret Diary of Anne Boleyn. After hearing 
what they did with Moses and Cleopatra mini-series, one wonders what 
they will do with Anne. At least they turned down Maxwell's other 
novel The Queen's Bastard which was about Arthur Dudley, rumoured to be 
Elizabeth's illegitimate son.

Kassandra NickKraken
JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 03:31:23 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: religious books. 
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-Poster: starkiller@picknowl.com.au

Another excellent book for finding what people in the mid to late 13th
century wore as fighting monks, nuns, ordinary people, religious
personages, nobility, etc is the facsimile of the Maciejowski Bible. I love
my copy to bits, it took ages to find one, as it is a very hard book to
come by. If you are in the UK/US or Europe, you could probably get it
through ILL very easily-not so here in Australia! It is called "Old
Testament Miniatures; A Medieval    Picture Book with 283 Paintings from
The Creation to The Story of David". The illuminations are clear, about
5"x7" in size and in colour! I cannot recommend this book enough.

Yours,

Lydie
___________________________________
Giles: "I've never actually heard of anyone attacked by a lone baseball bat
before." 
Xander: "Maybe it's a vampire bat." 
Giles and Buffy: "..." 
Xander: "I'm alone with that one, huh?" 
(Buffy the Vampire Slayer)
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/cover.htm (Cover page to all my
pages)
starkiller@picknowl.com.au


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 08:02:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 15:09:37 +0200
From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: H-COST: Introduction
To: "Historic Costume List (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

Dear Although I would introduce myself.  I am fairly new to historic
costuming but I have been sewing and embroidering for many years.  I am 21,
live in Hertfordshire England and reading for a degree in Molecular Biology.
Other interests include drawing (not very good at it), reading, writing, and
walking.  Hope to get lots of information off this list.
Rachel
http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/witchwood/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 09:57:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: WAS: Opinions, please -- NOW:  Recommendations, please
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    For late Medieval/Renaissance, there are a number of truly wonderful
books available to the pattern-drafting impaired like me.  Are there some
equally good ones for early period?  Thank you in advance for your comments
and recommendations, and thanks to everyone who responded to my inquiry
about Hoekeboer's book.  Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 10:34:36 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wrapper question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:08 AM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>The wide bias band on the bottom of the wrapper seems to lap
>over 18" or 24" and then close.  Seems so impractical.  Am I
>understanding this right?

Huh?  I don't see a closure on the bottom ruffle at all.  I assumed the
opening just went as far as the top of the ruffle.  

On another aspect of this question, I tried draping my pattern based on the
Deliniator gown (1893, not 1993!) and discovered that the "side back gores"
they were talking about don't seem to have been seperate pieces.  As far as
I can tell, the only seam is at side back.  It has a front closure hidden by
a group of pleats from the neckline, the sides are smoothly darted to give
the effect of a curved side seam, there is a curved side back seam where
we'd put the side  back seam on a modern princess cut, and the back has
another cluster of pleats with a deep box pleat center back.  The pleats are
tacked down for a few inches, front and back.  This arrangement leaves the
sides on the straight grain, useful since I'm using stripes.

the gown in the picture referred to, on the other hand, has no pleats in
front and probably gets all its fullness from angled side seams, and
possibly pleating at CB.  It still doesn't explain the bias angle of the
stripes at the sides...wouldn't they go the other way if they were just the
result of an angled seam?  Maybe they ARE pieced in decoratively.  

Margo Anderson

(wishing she had acsess to real garments)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 10:36:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 08:46:10 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

The only thing I can think of is not to make a surcote at all.  Stay strictly
Scottish and leave the surcotes to those nasty Normans.  If you *must* make a
surcote I guess you could go plaid.  But then it would have to be a comedy.
Cynthia

> I'm interested in doing a Scottish Renaissance costume.... any suggestions as
> to how I could make a surcote look "Scottish".

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 14:15:35 1999
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Subject: H-COST: "what to wear"
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

ok, pardon my ignorance here, being as I only make what is requested,
I've never questioned what actually "goes underneath"

I have a client that wants a wench costume.  (bodice, chemise,
overskirt....)  but I haven't a CLUE as to what to tell her to wear
underneath.

do I tell her to wear the "pantaloon" things that people wear or what?

thanks in advance;

Anah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 14:30:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Anne Boleyn
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 6/1/99 3:41:35 AM EST, starkiller@picknowl.com.au writes:

> Just read that NBC plans to film a minseries based on on a novel by 
>  Robin Maxwell called The Secret Diary of Anne Boleyn.

This should be interesting. I just finished using this book as quite a large 
portion of my senior project, of this particular queen in literature. It's an 
entertaining book, but not all that creative, I felt. More of a basic 
rehashing on her life...I didn't even think putting it in first person made 
it all that interesting. If you want a VERY good book in that vein, _The 
Autobiography of Henry VIII_ is better.

But, this is simple enough it might just translate onto film. And as always, 
the costumes will be something to watch.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 03:17 PM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>
>
>ok, pardon my ignorance here, being as I only make what is requested,
>I've never questioned what actually "goes underneath"
>
>I have a client that wants a wench costume.  (bodice, chemise,
>overskirt....)  but I haven't a CLUE as to what to tell her to wear
>underneath.
>
>do I tell her to wear the "pantaloon" things that people wear or what?

The "pantaloons" are modern conveniences to prevent thigh chafing, not
historically accurate garments.  The chemise, more properly called a smock,
IS the underwear.  Bificurated undergarments were uncommon amongst European
women until the 19th century.  

Margo

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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 15:52:58 -0400
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-Poster: Anah <anah@tymeportal.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:

> The "pantaloons" are modern conveniences to prevent thigh chafing, not
> historically accurate garments.  The chemise, more properly called a smock,
> IS the underwear.  Bificurated undergarments were uncommon amongst European
> women until the 19th century.

that much I kno, but I was referring to what "we" would consider
"underwear"  panties, or pantaloons are probably not historically
accurate....but that is what she is concerned about  "modesty" wise.

hmmm ok, while not historically correct, and how much of "ren faire"
stuff actually adheres vehemently TO historical correctness ---
pantaloons would be alright to suggest, I am assuming?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 15:06:07 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>hmmm ok, while not historically correct, and how much of "ren faire"
>stuff actually adheres vehemently TO historical correctness ---
>pantaloons would be alright to suggest, I am assuming?

They're what most Faire participants wear,  for comfort and modesty.  Me, I
prefer my old linen maternity shorts, which are long enough to prevent thigh
chafe and short enough not to show in ordinary situations, avoiding giving
the impression that Victorian styled bloomers were an authentic 16th century
fashion.  

Margo

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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I disagree that underpants are only a modern invention and that women didn't wear
this type of undergarment.  There are extant under "pants" pictured in Janet
Arnold for one.  I find it very difficult to believe that women didn't figure out
that some kind of garment was needed to stop chafing.  There certainly were some
kind in the 16th century if not earlier.  These "pants" were actually quite
pretty, embroidery around the hems, made out of linen, with a drawstring waist.
I don't remember if they are bifurcated (split crotched?) or not, but one would
think this would be more convenient while in a gown, a corset, and a
farthingale.  ;->

What I wear when not trying for complete authenticity (which is variable
depending on my mood and how many days I've been camping) are bike shorts one
size too big.  They don't bind too tight at the waist, they are slimming, and
they prevent chafing (I get them almost to the knee).  I have every intention of
making some kind of 14th century notion of underpants, probably a copy of what
the men wear soon though.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 6/1/99 3:01:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
anah@tymeportal.com writes:

> how much of "ren faire"
>  stuff actually adheres vehemently TO historical correctness

A lot depends on where the faire is held and who is managing the faire. So 
far in four years, no one has looked under my skirts to see what I was 
wearing ;-). I try to stay mostly accurate and wear split pantaloons most of 
the time. When it's cool I wear sweater knit tights. 

Not only do pantaloons prevent thigh chaffing, they keep from developing a 
layer of dust and dirt from waist to ankle. They are great for absorbing 
persperation on those 100 degree days. They also make restroom visits a bit 
easier if they are split (two separate legs attached to a drawstring waist 
and not connected underneath). This is too "crotchless" for many people, but 
if made correctly they overlap well. Having tried to handle two skirts, long 
chemise, corset and bodice all tightly laced over panties I MUCH prefer my 
split pantaloons. For historical accuracy as well as comfort, go for 
drawstring at the waist and the knee (or ankle depending on the length). 
Elastic can be so binding and uncomfortable under all those layers!

They allow me to wear a shorter chemise, which is more comfortable for me as 
it doesn't get caught between my legs when I'm wandering about.

And when one sits or hikes one's skirts for circulation, all you will see 
will be a bit of lace or gather where the pantaloons peek out! 

This got long winded, sorry. Just my own experience talking. There are some 
decent patterns available for various pantaloons and they are easy to make. 
Good luck!

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 15:37:51 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:08:58 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scottish Surcotes
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well here we have one of those conceptual contradictions. Renaissance
surcotes are a predominantly Spanish fashion, although worn by many other
countries. The Scottish, during most of the 16th century, were deeply
influenced by their 'Auld Alliance' with France and were mostly
influenced by French fashion in a court context. Anyone who was wearing a
surcote would have been focused on French/Continental fashions and would
not have been concerned about having a Scottish identity. Scotland was
pretty universally viewed as a cultural backwater and being identified as
Scottish was not seen as a plus. Anyone who was Highland Scottish/clan
based wouldn't have been wearing a Continental fashion like a surcote. I
suppose a crucial question is where is this person from? If from the
Clans, then they would dress in a manner derived from Celtic styles and
wouldn't be wearing surcotes. If they are from the Lowlands (most of
Scotland) they would be dressed in a standard Continental fashion and
wouldn't have anything we would recognize as being typically Scottish. 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 15:46:35 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I suppose a crucial question is where is this person from?

Indeed.  And also when.  I forgot about Rennaisance and Elizabethan
surcotes.  I was thinking of 13th-14th century surcotes.   *GG*

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 16:04:58 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Scottish Surcotes
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:17:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>

Anyone who wore a surcote would have used  imported
materials.  Nix the plaid.  You could have your man go
barefoot.  That would be very Scots.  What about a  brooch.
There's a good book just recently out on Scottish art, and
it includes a number of large circular ornaments to wear
with Celtic symbols on them.  Saw it in G-Street Fabrics in
Rockville MD yesterday, but didn't note the author or title.
It included many friezes and tombs with sculpture of Scots
on them included which may be helpful to you too.  Perhaps
it was called *something like* Art in Scotland,Treasures
from the National Museum of Scotland.

Hope H. Dunlap

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Merouda the True of Bornover
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 11:46 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Scottish Surcotes



-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

The only thing I can think of is not to make a surcote at
all.  Stay strictly
Scottish and leave the surcotes to those nasty Normans.  If
you *must* make a
surcote I guess you could go plaid.  But then it would have
to be a comedy.
Cynthia

> I'm interested in doing a Scottish Renaissance costume....
any suggestions as
> to how I could make a surcote look "Scottish".

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 16:12:48 1999
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Subject: H-COST: SCA Siezes Russia
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 99 17:24:23 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

     I'm sure all those who are subscribed to SCA lists have seen this 
already, but as a non-SCA person I found it very funny and thought others 
would, too. There are some pictures of people in costume, too. :)

     -Carol

----------------------------------------
Society For Creative Anachronism Seizes Control Of Russia
MOSCOW--Official reports from the Kremlin Tuesday confirmed that the
Society for Creative Anachronism, a group of medieval-wargames hobbyists,
seized control of Russia in a bloodless coup over the weekend.

For the full story:
http://www.theonion.com/onion3520/sca_siezes_russia.html
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:25:02 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Scottish Surcotes
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

As I said, only if it's a comedy.  *G*  Cynthia

> Anyone who wore a surcote would have used  imported
> materials.  Nix the plaid.

> The only thing I can think of is not to make a surcote at
> all.  Stay strictly
> Scottish and leave the surcotes to those nasty Normans.  If
> you *must* make a
> surcote I guess you could go plaid.  But then it would have
> to be a comedy.
>

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 16:35:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:44:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "what to wear"
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-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

> that much I kno, but I was referring to what "we"
> would consider
> "underwear"  panties, or pantaloons are probably not
> historically
> accurate....but that is what she is concerned about 
> "modesty" wise.
> 
> hmmm ok, while not historically correct, and how
> much of "ren faire"
> stuff actually adheres vehemently TO historical
> correctness ---
> pantaloons would be alright to suggest, I am
> assuming?

Maybe not what you're looking for, but I wear stretch
pants under ALL my skirted garb (I can't stand my big
thighs rubbing together!).

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 17:16:26 1999
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>


>I disagree that underpants are only a modern invention and that women
>didn't wear
>this type of undergarment.

I've seen late 16th c examples of German and Italian "pants". These are not
split crotched and have straight legs to the knee (no drawstring or ruffles
at the hem) and have embroidery along the hem. I've heard that Italian
Renaissance whores wore men's breeches and are shown wearing some that look
like men's "Venetians", but they looked quite different from the
"underpants" that I've seen.  I don't recall seeing any English examples,
even in Janet Arnold, but I could be remembering wrong...

Julie Adams


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

My sister told me about this...and she thought is was true!

Margo

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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 18:21:55 -0700
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Subject: Re: H-COST: SCA Siezes Russia
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:12 PM 6/1/99 -0800, you wrote:-Poster: Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net>
>My sister told me about this...and she thought is was true! -- Margo
       Oh, dear.  I hope you were able to make her believe that the "Onion"
is largely social satire and comedy.  Although I thought the devices on the
shields were rather nice.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 20:16:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: SCA Siezes Russia
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>




> >My sister told me about this...and she thought is was true! -- Margo

>        Oh, dear.  I hope you were able to make her believe that the
"Onion"
> is largely social satire and comedy.  Although I thought the devices on
the
> shields were rather nice.  Carol


A  modern day "War of the Worlds". :-)
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 1860 Bodice
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:43:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Some place I read about skirts and bodices being tied or hooked together =
in mid 19th century - does anyone know of a book describing this? I have =
a waist length bodice which drops down into a deep point in the front, =
I'm wearing it with a separate skirt which is pleated onto a waistband. =
I put ties at the side seams attaching to the skirt, this was the only =
place I felt I could safely anchor the ties. When I lift my arms too =
high (as in every time I tried to put on my hat :) ) the front of the =
bodice pulled up. I've never claimed to be a real lady but I'm not =
accustomed to flashing people either!

Beth

------=_NextPart_000_00B1_01BEAC80.31DB4E80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Some place I read about skirts and bodices being =
tied or=20
hooked together in mid 19th century - does anyone know of a book =
describing=20
this? I have a waist length bodice which drops down into a deep point in =
the=20
front, I'm wearing it with a separate skirt which is pleated onto a =
waistband. I=20
put ties at the side seams attaching to the skirt, this was the only =
place I=20
felt I could safely anchor the ties. When I lift my arms too high (as in =
every=20
time I tried to put on my hat :) ) the front of the bodice pulled up. =
I've never=20
claimed to be a real lady but I'm not accustomed to flashing people=20
either!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 21:41:32 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fire safety & skirts
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:50:13 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00BA_01BEAC81.1C438BE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I recently heard a museum guide explain that women kept the bottom 6 =
inches or so of their skirts wet - to prevent them from catching on =
fire. The time frame is rather vague - the house spanned most of the =
17th and 18th centuries. Has anyone seen documentation for this. It =
seems not only very time consuming but impractical. Cold drafty floors =
and wet skirts flapping around your ankles?

Beth

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<HTML><HEAD>
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I recently heard a museum guide explain that women =
kept the=20
bottom 6 inches or so of their skirts wet - to prevent them from =
catching on=20
fire. The time frame is rather vague - the house spanned most of the =
17th and=20
18th centuries. Has anyone seen documentation for this. It seems not =
only very=20
time consuming but impractical. Cold drafty floors and wet skirts =
flapping=20
around your ankles?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:28 PM 6/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
>
>
>
>> >My sister told me about this...and she thought is was true! -- Margo
>
>>        Oh, dear.  I hope you were able to make her believe that the
>"Onion"
>> is largely social satire and comedy.

Amazing, isn't it...especially since she's heavily involved in living
history and reenactment of a different period (Art Deco).  I think she was
very, very tired.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 21:47:18 1999
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fire safety & skirts
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:54:52 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

>I recently heard a museum guide explain that women kept the bottom 6
inches or so of their skirts wet - to >prevent them from catching on
fire. The time frame is rather vague - the house spanned most of the
17th and >18th centuries. Has anyone seen documentation for this. It
seems not only very time consuming but >impractical. Cold drafty
floors and wet skirts flapping around your ankles?

This doesn't make much sense to me...what I've heard from women
cooking over fires is that a good wool skirt will take a lot of heat
before it actually singes. Wet skirts doesn't sound very nice.

Any takers?

Eve Harris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 21:50:58 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Beth wrote:

> I recently heard a museum guide explain that women kept the bottom 6 =
> inches or so of their skirts wet - to prevent them from catching on =
> fire. The time frame is rather vague - the house spanned most of the =
> 17th and 18th centuries. Has anyone seen documentation for this. It =
> seems not only very time consuming but impractical. Cold drafty floors =
> and wet skirts flapping around your ankles?
Ick! Obviously not some who's tried getting about with a wet hem (or
going to the loo with one :-P)....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: SCA Siezes Russia
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@earthlink.net>


Greetings!

>       Oh, dear.  I hope you were able to make her believe that the "Onion"
>is largely social satire and comedy.  Although I thought the devices on the
>shields were rather nice.  Carol


That's 'cause they're real SCAdians.  Namely, some of the local (to the
Onion) Madison, WI folks.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 21:53:08 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Beth wrote:

> Some place I read about skirts and bodices being tied or hooked together =
> in mid 19th century - does anyone know of a book describing this? I have =
> a waist length bodice which drops down into a deep point in the front, =
> I'm wearing it with a separate skirt which is pleated onto a waistband. =
> I put ties at the side seams attaching to the skirt, this was the only =
> place I felt I could safely anchor the ties. When I lift my arms too =
> high (as in every time I tried to put on my hat :) ) the front of the =
> bodice pulled up. I've never claimed to be a real lady but I'm not =
> accustomed to flashing people either!
You could try putting a couple of hooks and eyes on either side of the
bodice point (and maybe round the back too). That might hold the skirt
and bodice more firmly together...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 22:06:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:09:11 +0000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scottish Play
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

I am probably going to be one of many replys on this one:  DON'T!

There is no evidence with which I am familiar that suggests "Scottish"
people wore surcoats...

-Annette

On Tue, 1 Jun 1999 00:40:52 EDT PiranhaBB@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: PiranhaBB@aol.com
> 
> I'm interested in doing a Scottish Renaissance costume.... any 
> suggestions as 
> to how I could make a surcote look "Scottish". 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Lisa
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 22:13:35 1999
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

If anyone is interested in the Civil war period I just listed copies of the Civil
War
Lady. Clothing history, social history, living history:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=112251094

Also a facsimile reproduction copy  of Workwoman's Guide by A Lady (1838)
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=112274642

Lois


Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 6/1/99 11:03:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:

<< > accustomed to flashing people either!
 You could try putting a couple of hooks and eyes on either side of the
 bodice point (and maybe round the back too). That might hold the skirt
 and bodice more firmly together...
 - >>
I usually put them side front, side & side back. Of course you only need to 
do this if the skirt open in back & the bodice opens in front [or something 
similar or vice versa]. If both open CB...then just tack them together all 
the way round. Remember, they were always basting on collars & cuffs & all 
kinds of things in the 19th century.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 22:51:13 1999
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From: "mffski" <mffski@ptd.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Spring Cleaning
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 23:54:39 -0400
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-Poster: "mffski" <mffski@ptd.net>

Dear Scott,

You wrote:

    Seems like some folks are doing some spring cleaning! Well, it's
infectious. I've done some too. I just listed some period patterns
uncut
in the original envelopes on ebay. All of my listing can be seen here:
eBay Seller List: mhull@earthlink.net .

This is an email address, not a URL.  Will you send me the URL, please?

There are a few needlepoint books as well. Good luck to all of us.
Hope you all had a great weekend.
cheers, jd

I'm very interested.

Maryanne
mffski@ptd.net
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Maybe not what you're looking for, but I wear stretch
> pants under ALL my skirted garb (I can't stand my big
> thighs rubbing together!).

I've heard this as "proof" that medieval and Renaissance women *had* 
to have worn underwear. However, I think we get used to what we grow 
up with. 

There have been women who have gone without underpants of any 
recognizable kind even into the present Century (1900s). In some 
cultures, even very large women do not wear anything to keep their 
thighs from rubbing together (such as the large women of the South 
Sea Islands.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I disagree that underpants are only a modern invention and that women didn't wear
> this type of undergarment.  There are extant under "pants" pictured in Janet
> Arnold for one.  I find it very difficult to believe that women didn't figure out
> that some kind of garment was needed to stop chafing.  There certainly were some
> kind in the 16th century if not earlier.  These "pants" were actually quite
> pretty, embroidery around the hems, made out of linen, with a drawstring waist.

What we have extant are Italian late 16th Century. It is not clear 
whether they are for men or women. We know from reports that some 
women wore underwear in Italy, but from written sources it was felt 
to be weird by English standards. From the research I've done, the 
style seems to have started in late 15th early 16th Century Spain, by 
women who had noted the habit amongst Moresco women (see Anderson's 
book on Spanish clothing.) The Spanish women brought them to Italy 
when they migrated (all those Medici bankers and their ilk). Even in 
Italy it was considered shocking, which is one of the reasons why the 
d'Este women were considered "fast."

We must keep in mind that not everyone has a chafing problem. Not 
only that, but it isn't only the thin who do not have a problem (and 
only the fat who do.) We get used to what we grow up with or find 
indispensible once we have gotten out of the habit of going without. 
Just because *we* can't imagine someone doing something a different 
way, doesn't mean they might think they had a need for it. 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 01:54:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 03:01:52 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Underwear was what to wear
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

> I find it very difficult to believe that women didn't figure out
that some kind of garment was needed to stop chafing. 

Maybe because they didn't experiance it ? why is it more likely to occur
with medieval gear for instance than a modern skirt & briefs without
tights(I think pantyhose to you ?) or indeed with stockings ? I'm sorry
this point always baffles me, as I don't understand the problem 

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 02:29:13 1999
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From: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Found Louise Portrait - still need help!
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:40:13 +1000 
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-Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>

Greetings all,

I number of days ago I sent out a request asking for help in tracking down a
particular portrait of Louise of Lorraine (otherwise known as Louise de
Vaudemont - Queen of France).  The details of the portrait were:

> The portrait I am 
> looking for would be from around 1575, and slightly odd in that it has 
> the turned-back sleeves of French 1530s frocks. There is a drawing of 
> it in Herbert Norris'  Tudor Fashion.
> 
Well, I've actually tracked down a drawing from Racinet at:
http://www.costumes.org/history/greatwomen/10340_26.jpg

I believe this is the portrait that Norris is referring to, but I am really
iffy about Racinet's redrawings.  Would anyone know where Racinet took his
source material?

In other words is there a clue here as to where to look for the original
portrait?

Oh and Racinet's details are:
Racinet, Albert (1988) The Historical Encyclopedia of Costume, ISBN:
1-85170-173-7.  p179

Thanks and regards

Meliora
Lochac.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 02:40:51 1999
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From: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.org>
Organization: Lyninine Federation
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-Poster: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.org>

On 1 Jun 99, at 13:17, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> I find it very difficult to believe that women didn't figure out
> that some kind of garment was needed to stop chafing.  

Chafing of thighs? Perhaps the chafing some experience is because 
of the modern way of walking (feel very close together)? Or 
perhaps they found another ways, for example using some kind of 
cream or oil on thighs to keep them for chafing each other.




--
-------(c) 1999--------------*        lynoure@tuug.org      *
Ella Lynoure Rajamaki--------* http://www.tuug.org/~lynoure *
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 03:08:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 04:16:49 -0400
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Antique Costume & Textiles Fairs
To: all <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Apologies if you have received this information previously via other lists!
Once again my Antique Costume & Textiles Fairs are fast approaching, as
follows :

        (a) 13th June - Assembly Rooms, BATH..........home of the Costume
Museum!
        (b) 25th July - Esher Hall, SANDOWN PARK, Surrey
        (c) 19th September - Armitage Centre, MANCHESTER

The next event - at Bath - has over 60 dealers selling a wonderful range of
antique/vintage costume and textiles.  We have attracted dealers from
France, Belgium and Italy!  As usual we will have Bonhams (Auctioneers)
providing FREE valuations, Pat Earnshaw will give FREE lace valuations and
a textile conservation studio will also offer FREE advice.

At BATH - you could combine a visit to the Fair with a visit to the world
famous Museum of Costume - a combined ticket will be available on the day! 
 At SANDOWN PARK - make it a weekend feast of antique textiles, with a full
day course on 24th July to learn all about the Care & Preservation of
Antique Textiles.  (The fee for this course includes entry to the Fair!)
More information about the Fairs can be found on my web site -
http://www.artizania.co.uk

*** On the web site, I am now listing other UK dealers and events of
interest around the world.   I have just added a nice range of engageants,
pelerines, collars and a lovely Dresden work neckerchief.

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199906020302_MC2-77D4-EB89@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Underwear was what to wear
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-Poster: "Brandy Dickson" <query@mindless.com>


From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

:
: > I find it very difficult to believe that women didn't figure out
: that some kind of garment was needed to stop chafing.
:
: Maybe because they didn't experiance it ? why is it more likely to occur
: with medieval gear for instance than a modern skirt & briefs without
: tights

Well, I have a theory... if you live your whole life having your body shaped
by a corset, the body adjusts... I think it is the same with the thighs...
if you lived your whole life not using anything to stop the chafting, well,
the body adjusts by toughening up the skin there....

I also wear skirts mundanely and in the SCA.  When I am wearing skirts on a
nippy, dewy, muggy, rainy or damp day, I find that I have red puffy chafted
skin, and it becomes hard to walk without looking like you need to go
home...  when I am wearing skirts in the SCA, I find myself walking with a
different stride, and the swing to my hips changes.... it truely makes a
difference to how much chafting I get, and how long it hurts for... to
combat that, I use cheap baby powder, or if desperate, oils, but they absorb
into the skin after a bit, and can make the potential problem worse...
sometimes I wear biking shorts, because I haven't the time to "powder up"
...

Hope this helps...

Brandy Dickson
query@mindless.com

(I think pantyhose to you ?) or indeed with stockings ? I'm sorry
: this point always baffles me, as I don't understand the problem


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