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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT:  Do you have "The medieval horse and its equipment"?
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 19:29:36 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi,

Dave wrote:
>   They are constantly referred to in the shoeing section and illustrated.
> there is also a photo of part of a shoe with two nails;Other than in that
> context  they  are not greatly covered.

Right. He does not mention that there are 3 types of horseshoe nails
illustrated (fiddle-key (early), 'with expanded ears' (mid) and 'with
rectangular heads' (late medieval)). The second are in a photograph of a
horseshoe from around 1300. Furthermore, nails with trapezoid heads, as
I've seen them until recently (I don't see horseshoes often ;-)), are
already known since Norman times and have, obviously, lasted.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Musketeers
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 19:45:28 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Hillary wrote:
> Are there patterns available for the musketeer
> costumes *as seen in* Man in the Iron Mask?
> (thinking specifically of the black w/ red
> lining on the Three themselves at the end)
> 
> Are the musketeer costumes from Man in the
> Iron Mask anywhere near accurate?

It's a funny thing, but yesterday evening we rented the video and watched
it (after The Mask of Zorro; nice film, Banderas was good). I must say: we
did not like it much: flimsy story, very silly plot and not too good
acting. The costumes looked alright to me (not my period, though), but I
doubted the musketeers tabards Irons got from behind the gravesculpture.
These were supposed to be the ones they had worn during Louis XIII's reign
in the 20's and 30's, but they were black, rather long and of a much too
late pattern. I know for a fact that the colour of this tabard was a light
greyish blue, with a white (silver?) and gold embroidered sun burst cross
(pommee?) on the front and back. The Richard Lester movie of the 3
Musketeers had them perfect. The colours of the musketeers as they were
portrayed in the rest of the film were a bit too royal blue to my taste,
but I'm not sure this wasn't correct.

Henk
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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 11:33:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Musketeers
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

*However*... the patterns are available... but for the
life of me I cannot remember where...  it was a
smaller company specializing in the recreation of film
costuming... sorry I can't be of more help.

Sarah



> Hillary wrote:
> > Are there patterns available for the musketeer
> > costumes *as seen in* Man in the Iron Mask?
> > (thinking specifically of the black w/ red
> > lining on the Three themselves at the end)
> > 
> > Are the musketeer costumes from Man in the
> > Iron Mask anywhere near accurate?
> 
> It's a funny thing, but yesterday evening we rented
> the video and watched
> it (after The Mask of Zorro; nice film, Banderas was
> good). I must say: we
> did not like it much: flimsy story, very silly plot
> and not too good
> acting. The costumes looked alright to me (not my
> period, though), but I
> doubted the musketeers tabards Irons got from behind
> the gravesculpture.
> These were supposed to be the ones they had worn
> during Louis XIII's reign
> in the 20's and 30's, but they were black, rather
> long and of a much too
> late pattern. I know for a fact that the colour of
> this tabard was a light
> greyish blue, with a white (silver?) and gold
> embroidered sun burst cross
> (pommee?) on the front and back. The Richard Lester
> movie of the 3
> Musketeers had them perfect. The colours of the
> musketeers as they were
> portrayed in the rest of the film were a bit too
> royal blue to my taste,
> but I'm not sure this wasn't correct.
> 
> Henk
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Jul 30 13:35:49 1999
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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 13:44:14 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Hope H. Dunlap wrote:

> You'll have a tough time finding it, and it probably doesn't
> circulate, but this book is fabulous (in two huge volumes):
> Shuette or Schutte with an umlaut over the "u." Originallly
> in German, translated into English: *The Art of Embroidery,*
> co-authored by Sigrid Muller-Christensen, and translated by
> Donald King.  I think the
> English publication was Thames and Hudson and published
> around 1964.

My small county library has this book in circulation.  I once asked them
to consider putting it in reference, but they decided to keep it in
circulation.  I'll be *majorly* upset if someone walks off with it (as
well as the prime suspect :-)  ).

--Charlene

--
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Jul 30 13:40:46 1999
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From: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>
Organization: Oracle Corporation
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Subject: H-COST: Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution
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-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>


I made the Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution. It was published by the
Northern Society of Costume and Textiles. There is a review of the
pattern
and a photo of my gown on the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild website.

http://www.toreadors.com/costume

Click on Pattern Review. The listings are alphabetical by the name of
the
Pattern Company. To see this one, click on NO.

The front of the gown is very plain. It has a moderate round neck,
unadorned
and fastens up the front with hooks and eyes. The bodice front comes
straight across
at the waistline. The pattern includes information on the history of the
gown
which was preserved by the family. I think I remember that the gown was
purchased from the wife of the boatman who roved the family out to sea.

It's a very simple pattern and was easy to scale up. I made two
changes: I added a ruffle to the skirt and I made the bodice lace up the
front.

Sally Norton
snorton@us.oracle.com

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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Hope H. Dunlap wrote:

> In German Schutte's book was published in Leipzig 1927-30,
> under the title *Gestickte Bildteppishe des Mittelalters.*

Same author, different book.  Pictorial History of  Embroidery / Art of
Embroidery was originally published in German:  Das Stickereiwerk,
Tubingen, E. Wasmuth, 1963

--Charlene

--
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.


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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I made the Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution. It was published by the
> Northern Society of Costume and Textiles. There is a review of the
> pattern
> and a photo of my gown on the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild website.

Lovely outfit and you're lovely too!
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Jul 30 14:27:23 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, July 30, 1999 11:42 AM
Subject: H-COST: Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution


>This is the one! (I don't remember there being a scarf like wrap on the
shoulders, though. Was this an addition of yours too?  The picture I saw was
back view only in the Alter Years catalog.
      Does anyone in your affiliation have and would like to part with their
copy?  Let me know!
   Thank you!
         Michelle
>-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>
>
>
>I made the Dress Worn to Escape the Revolution. It was published by the
>Northern Society of Costume and Textiles. There is a review of the
>pattern
>and a photo of my gown on the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild website.
>
>http://www.toreadors.com/costume
>
>Click on Pattern Review. The listings are alphabetical by the name of
>the
>Pattern Company. To see this one, click on NO.
>
>The front of the gown is very plain. It has a moderate round neck,
>unadorned
>and fastens up the front with hooks and eyes. The bodice front comes
>straight across
>at the waistline. The pattern includes information on the history of the
>gown
>which was preserved by the family. I think I remember that the gown was
>purchased from the wife of the boatman who roved the family out to sea.
>
>It's a very simple pattern and was easy to scale up. I made two
>changes: I added a ruffle to the skirt and I made the bodice lace up the
>front.
>
>Sally Norton
>snorton@us.oracle.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Jul 30 14:39:25 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: pattern out of print
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 12:51:31 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>Try Lacis!

What a cool site!  I put it in my 'favorites.'  I will give them a call.
    Thank you, Margery!

>If it's the same pattern, and I'm pretty sure it is, they have it in
>their non-illustrated online catalog:
>SP509  N. SOCIETY: #02 Drsss of Revolution, 1793  14.00 
>
>Go to http://www.lacis.com/catalog/catalog.htm
>click on catalog price list in the upper frame
>scroll down to patterns in the side menu frame
>click on 'misc patterns'
>it's the 4th in the list.
>
>You may want to call and ask if they have it in stock and if this is
>indeed the pattern you are looking for.
>
>I have a dim memory of the pattern description from reading the
>envelope, and I think it is indeed the pattern, or a similar pattern.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Jul 30 16:44:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 12:32:34 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Musketeers
References: <199907301742.TAA15256@worldonline.nl>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Henk wrote:

> The costumes looked alright to me (not my period, though)
     <snip happens>
> I know for a fact that the colour of this tabard was a light
> greyish blue, with a white (silver?) and gold embroidered sun
> burst cross (pommee?) on the front and back.

I had the opportunity to view the actual tabards from the movie on display at
FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising), as well as costumes from
other Oscar nominated movies (Elizabeth, Shakespeare in Love, etc.). I soon
realized that these were theatrical costumes that looked nice on film, but
were often rather disappointing up close. Many of the pieces used tricks to
get the correct look, but the actual construction was not accurate.

The Musketeer tabards were a blue grey color. The cross was made with simple
silver rayon/mylar ribbon trim for the arms with a machine fabricated gold
rayon/mylar iron-on fleur-de-lis appliqué at the terminal of each arm. I don't
recall whether there were rays at the junction of the cross or not.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Jul 31 08:24:59 1999
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Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 09:34:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Musketeers
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 99-07-30 17:56:31 EDT, you write:

<< I soon
 realized that these were theatrical costumes that looked nice on film, but
 were often rather disappointing up close. Many of the pieces used tricks to
 get the correct look, but the actual construction was not accurate. >>


Well...duh! James Acheson desiged "Iron Mask"...which is an awful film 
indeed. But he is one of the best designers around [he's won 3 oscars]. Of 
course colors & textures appear to be different on camera and anticipating 
how they will look is part of the knack. There's tons of painted "embroidery" 
in "Last Emperor" for instance.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Musketeers
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 7/31/99 8:36:17 AM Central Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Well...duh! James Acheson desiged "Iron Mask"...which is an awful film 
 indeed. But he is one of the best designers around [he's won 3 oscars]. Of 
 course colors & textures appear to be different on camera and anticipating 
 how they will look is part of the knack. >>

I just loved this film.  The storyline and costuming.  I wish there was a 
picture book on the customes of the film or at least a website.  Maybe there 
is.  Anyone know?  
Kelly
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Jul 31 14:41:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: New Costume Website!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Hi everyone:  My website is up! There are sections on Costuming as a
Business,  Costume Humor, Projects, Tips and Tricks, and a photo gallery.
Sections on Elizabethan Costume and Gold Rush Costume are coming soon.

 Please take a look and tell me what you think. It would be particularly
helpful if you tell me what browser and what size monitor you used to view it.  

The URL is: http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

Thanks!

Margo Anderson
Margo@directcon.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Jul 31 15:51:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 17:00:10 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Copyright
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-Poster: RobesOf@aol.com

Hello everyone,

Here is some additional copyright information:

 <A HREF="http://www.lib.umich.edu/libhome/copyright/">Copyright 
Information</A> 

Here is a chart of when works pass into public domain:

 <A HREF="http://www.lib.umich.edu/libhome/copyright/chart.html">Untitled 
Document</A>

Will have more info shortly.  Happy reading.

Erica 
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Message-ID: <001b01bedb98$f9d04340$23065cc3@heri>
From: "L.D.Mundy (Editors-Heritage Matters Magazine)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <b10a0e45.24d4bdda@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copyright
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 22:09:27 +0100
Organization: Wysewords Cooperative
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-Poster: "L.D.Mundy (Editors-Heritage Matters Magazine)" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

If you use this be careful of the figures mentioned in 1996;
European dates are now 70 years extendable from the death  the last of the
creators as from 1998 With other changes at the beginning of this year.
Dave
 ----- Original Message -----
From: <RobesOf@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 1999 10:00 PM
Subject: H-COST: Copyright


>
> -Poster: RobesOf@aol.com
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Here is some additional copyright information:
>
>  <A HREF="http://www.lib.umich.edu/libhome/copyright/">Copyright
> Information</A>
>
> Here is a chart of when works pass into public domain:
>
>  <A HREF="http://www.lib.umich.edu/libhome/copyright/chart.html">Untitled
> Document</A>
>
> Will have more info shortly.  Happy reading.
>
> Erica
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)

>-Poster: M311@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 7/31/99 8:36:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
>AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>
><<
> Well...duh! James Acheson desiged "Iron Mask"...which is an awful film
> indeed. But he is one of the best designers around [he's won 3 oscars]. Of
> course colors & textures appear to be different on camera and anticipating
> how they will look is part of the knack. >>
>
>I just loved this film.  The storyline and costuming.  I wish there was a
>picture book on the customes of the film or at least a website.  Maybe there
>is.  Anyone know?
>Kelly


I thought the costuming was fine (but its just a bit past my period too).
Going from memory, my husband and I were discussing the "old livery".  He
says that they are cassocks, the ultimate in versatile clothing.  There
should be a pattern in Cut of Men's Clothes.

I don't have a copy of my own, so I can't check all of that.

  Too bad they couldn't follow the story by Dumas.  This was a 90's remake
of the Chamberlin movie, and had very little in common with the book.  Keep
in mind, this story takes place around thirty or forty years after the
Three Musketeers  (thats my period) so those cassocks sat around for quite
awhile.

Karolee J. Smiley
Kaitlin MacPherson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  1 09:53:41 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Costume Website!
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 09:06:20 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Margo,

I just visited your Website.  Looking Good!!  It is on my 'favorites'.  Let
us know when you get the pictures up.

Just one suggestion, the blue text on the red background is almost
impossible to read.  Also, I have had problems in the past with red and
blue text not printing when using a black and white printer.

Kathlene


----------
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: New Costume Website!
> Date: Saturday, July 31, 1999 1:49 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> Hi everyone:  My website is up! There are sections on Costuming as a
> Business,  Costume Humor, Projects, Tips and Tricks, and a photo gallery.
> Sections on Elizabethan Costume and Gold Rush Costume are coming soon.
> 
>  Please take a look and tell me what you think. It would be particularly
> helpful if you tell me what browser and what size monitor you used to
view it.  
> 
> The URL is: http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Margo Anderson
> Margo@directcon.net
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <laguz@mediaone.net>
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Subject: RE: H-COST: New Costume Website!
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 16:52:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <laguz@mediaone.net>


Does anyone know where to find a 16 cent doublet pattern online?
Andy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  1 16:10:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Web Sites of Interest
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 99 17:25:33 -0000
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Thought you might be interested in these sites. I have not checked them 
out but thought they may be helpful. Margo King

>A REALLY GREAT SHOE
>http://www.centuryinshoes.com/intro.html
>
>Solemates: The Century in Shoes is an interactive virtual exhibit of shoes
>through the century. Browse 100 years of changing footwear fashions
>including old advertisements.

>FINDING ART ON THE INTERNET
>http://www.artcyclopedia.com/index.html
>
>The mission of ArtCyclopedia is to become the definitive and most effective
>guide to museum-quality fine art on the Internet.  They currently report
>having 14,000 links directly to the works of 5,500 different artists and
>only provide references to sites where artists' works can be viewed online.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  1 20:22:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 18:30:02 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

This is such well-read and er, *eclectic* group,
I hope someone can help me remember the name of
a book. It's an historical novel I read in the
early 60's so god knows when it was published.

I *thought* it was called "Road to Byzantium"
but I can find no such title in the databases.

It opens with the burning of Joan of Arc in Rouen,
when our hero was a child. When he grew up, he
was sent by his merchant employer on business
trips which ended up with him in the city of
Byzantium (not Constantinople, as I recall).
His guardian/body guard/manservant is a Turk
who converted to Christianity during a Crusade.
(something like that anyway)

Many marvelous contrasts are drawn between the
unhygienic and primitive Europeans and the
civilized (and clean) "easterners".

I don't remember any specific costume references
(except references to silk, lots of silk) but it
had a tremendous impact on me and helped form
my interest in the 'mysterious east'.

So anyway, if anyone remembers this book, *please*
tell me the name!

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  1 23:20:48 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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To: costume list <H-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Stain on wool
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

Well, rather foolishly I wore an unhemmed white wool gown at a camping
event (it was cold and i was in a hurry), and so of course, it got rather
muddy round the hem (it's winter here atm). I threw it in the washing
machine, but the mud didn't go away! Now there is a nice brown stain
all round the bottom. It is a quite fine wool, with rather a tendency
to fray so I don't want to wash it again before I hem it, but I don't
want to hem it before I get the stain out as I imagine this will make it
harder to get out. Any ideas?
I have some Napisan (a pre-wash soaker for the uninitiated). If I soak it
in that then rinse it by hand will that damage the wool? (They make lots
of boasts about the stain removing power of this stuff so I imagine it's
fairly strong)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 07:54:08 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Feathers
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:02:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I am working on a vintage article for a webpage for the use and care of
feathers.  I realize that feathers are used in millinery.  But are there
others areas in costume that uses feathers?  I am trying to come up with
keywords for the search engines to use.  This is such a detailed article I
don't want anyone who works with feathers to lose out.

Later... Penny Ladnier
The Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 08:03:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

<<  But are there others areas in costume that uses feathers? >>

Fans

Barbara Delorey
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 09:35:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 10:44:58 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Maribou boas.  Sometimes you get feathers in jewelry these days. 
Feathers as accents on "indian" clothing, or other "savage" clothing
from days gone by might have feathers.

cv
--
I'm collecting a database & library of 3rd party articles about the SCA
for everyone's reference.  Email sca-clippings@thibault.org for details.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 10:04:03 1999
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 11:12:05 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: RobesOf@aol.com


 <<  But are there others areas in costume that uses feathers? >> 

Feathers are sometimes used as accents on dresses.  Take for instance the 
Gone with the Wind dress, feathers along the neckline (hope I am thinking of 
the right movie).  And during the "glamour" years in Hollywood (40's, 50's 
?), feathers were used many times.  I am sure people also use them in making 
fantasy costumes, too.  Or are you just referring to historical costumes?

Good luck!
Erica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 10:21:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 08:30:57 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Stain on wool
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I threw it in the washing
> machine, but the mud didn't go away! Now there is a nice brown stain
> all round the bottom. It is a quite fine wool, with rather a tendency
> to fray so I don't want to wash it again before I hem it, but I don't
> want to hem it before I get the stain out as I imagine this will make it
> harder to get out. Any ideas?

I'd serge the raw edge or zig-zag it before washing.  Always, dirty or not.
Actually I serge all cut edges before I put the garment together.

> I have some Napisan (a pre-wash soaker for the uninitiated). If I soak it
> in that then rinse it by hand will that damage the wool? (They make lots
> of boasts about the stain removing power of this stuff so I imagine it's
> fairly strong)

Do you have any scraps of your fabric left?  If so, do a sample wash.  If it comes
out okay give it a whirl.  Don't know about Napisan but I would certainly use some
kind of pre-wash stain remover.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 10:42:14 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:02 AM 8/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I am working on a vintage article for a webpage for the use and care of
>feathers.  I realize that feathers are used in millinery.  But are there
>others areas in costume that uses feathers? 

Well just off the top of my head:
Boas.  Those big showgirl headresses and backpieces.  Feather trim on
dresses such as those worn by Ginger Rogers, Cher, Charo, et al.  Feathers
made into hatbands, earrings, halter tops and trim on platform shoes were
seen in the 70's.  Aztec, Mayan, Hawaiian, and other ethnic feather textiles.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 10:50:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Penny,

National Museum of American History has a great "mini" exhibit up on Feathers 
and Preservation. Lots of information in their exhibition case.

And don't forget ceremonial robes. One great 18th century robe is at Bishop 
Museum in Honolulu, Hawaii.

Sally Queen
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 11:44:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 12:53:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>


Hello, I wa sjust looking at your website about your calendars, I love
this year's calendar!  Didn't know the new one was ready.

I am a member of a non-profit vintage dance group, and we are holding
our annual vintage dance week in Newport starting August 15th, and I
think it would be a great place to sell your calendars, is there enough
time to set up an account with you and get an order before then?  I can
either give you my ein number or the dance groups information.  What are
the number that need to be purchased wholesale?

Thanks.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 11:57:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 13:06:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 8/2/99 12:55:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
vintage@shore.net writes:

<< vintage@shore.net (Katy Bishop) >>
Katy,

Yes, there is time. Will email you off list with details. 

We are also sponsoring online costume articles by costume historians. 
Calendar images are the starting point, and the articles talk more about the 
clothing and customs.

Current topic is "Girls of '61" by Cricket Bauer. She is talking about the 
1861 custom of Daughters of the Regiment.

Previous article was by Jo Paoletti on Little Lord Fauntleroy and his 
clothing.

Enjoy and bookmark the page for more articles. The calendars are great 
connecting tools!

Sally Queen
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 12:02:52 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 09:02 AM 8/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>>
>>I am working on a vintage article for a webpage for the use and care of
>>feathers.  I realize that feathers are used in millinery.  But are there
>>others areas in costume that uses feathers?
>
>Well just off the top of my head:
>Boas.  Those big showgirl headresses and backpieces.  Feather trim on
>dresses such as those worn by Ginger Rogers, Cher, Charo, et al.  Feathers
>made into hatbands, earrings, halter tops and trim on platform shoes were
>seen in the 70's.  Aztec, Mayan, Hawaiian, and other ethnic feather
>textiles.
>
>Margo
>
Not to mention all those hats - from all periods up to the 1950's that
require so many feathers.

Also (since I'm designing some right now) feather wings.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 15:35:49 1999
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From: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>
To: "'h-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT - Costume College/Lost Item
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 13:39:24 -0700 
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-Poster: "Vickers, Jill" <jvickers@TELESENSORY.com>

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------ =_NextPart_001_01BEDD27.1B6FAB1E
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Sorry to use this venue for something so obviously off topic, but I just
don't know where else to try!

I left a sweater (black, ribbed, w/hood and zipper) in the car of a fellow
Costume College attendee while we were out getting into trouble down at the
fashion district last Monday.  Unfortunately, I forget her name.  All I know
is that she currently attends Chico State, she drives a light green Neon,
and she's got medium length, curly red hair.

If anyone knows how to get in touch with her, could you please let me know
or at least pass this message on to her?  I would greatly appreciate it!  I
can be reached at: (408) 616-8700 x3327.

Thanks!
-Jill

------ =_NextPart_001_01BEDD27.1B6FAB1E
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.0.1460.9">
<TITLE>OT - Costume College/Lost Item</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Sorry to use this venue for something =
so obviously off topic, but I just don't know where else to try!</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I left a sweater (black, ribbed, =
w/hood and zipper) in the car of a fellow Costume College attendee =
while we were out getting into trouble down at the fashion district =
last Monday.&nbsp; Unfortunately, I forget her name.&nbsp; All I know =
is that she currently attends Chico State, she drives a light green =
Neon, and she's got medium length, curly red hair.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">If anyone knows how to get in touch =
with her, could you please let me know or at least pass this message on =
to her?&nbsp; I would greatly appreciate it!&nbsp; I can be reached at: =
(408) 616-8700 x3327.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks!</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">-Jill</FONT>
</P>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 18:12:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 16:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


Lots of mascots are birds of one kind or another. Also, the best of
class journeyman was won at WindyCon last year by a macaw costume
Carol

===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 18:19:06 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: sca-garb list
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


I resubscribed to that list, got a message saying that I was
subscribed, and two weeks later have recieved nothing. Is there a
subscriber who might be able to explain this?
Thanks
Carol
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 23:05:55 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 16th Century Doublet Pattern
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 22:26:38 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Alcega's 2 16th Century doublet patterns are here on the
Web: http://www.costumes.org/pages/renpattern.htm.  Click on
the images to enlarge.  The original 1587 tailor's patterns.
Size up to your chest girth.

Janet Arnold.  Patterns of Fashion 3 : The Cut and
Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620 ; Janet
Arnold the single most useful book on 16th Century dress,
very scholarly, lots of pictures, good patterns.  Loads more
detail, helpful for actually putting the doublet together.

SCA Doublet pattern, no wings :
ftp://ftp.cirr.com/pub/SCRIBE/Costume/Doublet.Gif  I don't
know enough about this period to be able to comment on it's
authenticity for time and place, but it's simple.

Not 16th Century, but too good to leave out.  This site
shows how to cut and fit the Poirpoint of Charles the Bold,
circa 1367:
http://fox.nstn.ca/~swan/artifact/article_aissiette.html.
Not for the beginner!

Hope H. Dunlap




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  2 23:22:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 23:31:41 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Feathers
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I am working on a vintage article for a webpage for the use and care of
>feathers.  I realize that feathers are used in millinery.  But are there
>others areas in costume that uses feathers?  

How about jackets, wraps, coats?  I seem to remember designers like Erte'
showing them in the teens and 20's.  They looked like fur but much lighter.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 00:05:50 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Button Moulds
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Has anyone ever heard of a source for such a thing? I've a friend in need 
with a button maker and no moulds. I'm assuming she doesn't mean simply 
covered buttons, she specifically said "moulds"  I've looked through 
Greenberg &Hammer and a local fastener warehouse...

Ideas?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O! Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon, 
That monthly changes in her circled orb,
Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 00:21:39 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: H-COST: 16th century jackets
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

I've been looking at 16th century Flemish and Dutch paintings again. :-)
What I've been looking at, more specifically, are the jackets worn by
lower class women in the latter part of this century. I'm trying to figure
out how they would have been put together. I'm not sure whether they
would have been a similar construction to the informal embroidered linen
jackets worn by upper class women (narrow centre back piece with seams
curving into the armholes, two front pieces wrapping around the side to 
the back with no side seam), or whether they would have had an unshaped
back and front like the jackets of their male counterparts seem to be,
perhaps with side seams curving in to the waist, or a separate basque.
Would poor women be more likely to adapt the styles of poor men or of
rich women?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 00:25:14 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Button Moulds
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 01:15 AM 8/3/99 EDT, MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>Has anyone ever heard of a source for such a thing? I've a friend in need 
>with a button maker and no moulds. I'm assuming she doesn't mean simply 
>covered buttons, she specifically said "moulds"  I've looked through 
>Greenberg &Hammer and a local fastener warehouse...
>
>Ideas?
>
>angela
>+++++

I know that you can buy moulds for casting your own pewter buttons. For that
you can try James Townsend at http://www.jastown.com

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 01:15 AM 8/3/99 EDT, MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>Has anyone ever heard of a source for such a thing? I've a friend in need 
>with a button maker and no moulds. I'm assuming she doesn't mean simply 
>covered buttons, she specifically said "moulds"  I've looked through 
>Greenberg &Hammer and a local fastener warehouse...
>
>Ideas?
>
>angela
>+++++

I know that you can buy moulds for casting your own pewter buttons. For that
you can try James Townsend at http://www.jastown.com

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 01:10:30 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A I've a friend in need 
>>with a button maker and no moulds. I'm assuming she doesn't mean simply 
>>covered buttons, she specifically said "moulds" 

Wrapped thread buttons are made over wooden forms, similar to a disk bead,
that are called moulds.  Is this what she's looking for?  I believe General
Bead in San Francisco sells them.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 06:37:48 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Button Moulds
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 07:48:05 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

>Has anyone ever heard of a source for such a thing? I've a friend in need 
>with a button maker and no moulds. I'm assuming she doesn't mean simply 
>covered buttons, she specifically said "moulds"  I've looked through 
>Greenberg &Hammer and a local fastener warehouse...

She might also mean moulds for creating glass buttons.  My understanding 
is that they are in a general button shape with rods rising out of them 
where the holes for the buttons will be.  You fill them with glass powder 
and bake in a kiln.

I think I've seen such things in my lampworking supply catalogs.  (Sorry, 
no time to check right now.)

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: mostly finished object
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:21:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I've finally finished my first dress since the new baby.  I thought it would
never get done.  It is a merchant or middle class Elizabethan bodice and
skirtin a linen/cotton blend with a warp of green and a weft of light blue.
The bodice laces up the side backs by handmade eyelets like the Elenora of
Toledo gown in Janet Arnold.  There is also a matching flat cap.  There are
sleeves cut out, but as I will be wearing this at Pennsic, they aren't high
on my list of priorities.  I'm also working on embroidered guards for this
and hope to have them done in about a month or so.  The baby is starting to
play be himself now, so they should be done pretty soon.

 http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000843.jpg

Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 12:24:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 13:31:12 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Want to meet at Pennsic? was Re: H-COST: mostly FO
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I know there are a number of us Pennsic goers on H-Cost.  Does anyone want
to get together so we can actually put faces to names.  How about on Friday
of War Weekend (since I'm getting down there on Thursday).  We could meet
at my camp or at the barn or something...

Let me know what you think,

Danielle (SCA Gwendoline Rosamond)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 13:15:51 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-COSTUME" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kirby Hall
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:22:15 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi all,

Is there anyone among you (except for Mel Wilson) who is going to Kirby
Hall on 13-16.8.1999? I would love to meet H-Costumers in the flesh there.
I'll be in the 13th c camp either as a disreputable drummer (dressed in
mi-parti red-green, large red drum) with a strolling players group or as a
pikeman (arms: gules, a cross moline (or ancree) argent, over all a baston
sable). I'll be in gambeson (I'm still finishing it, it's brick red), jupon
(red with the cross), helmet (red), pike (10 feet), shield (gules, etc),
sword, etc.

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 13:42:56 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Want to meet at Pennsic? was Re: H-COST: mostly FO
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 14:49:43 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I know there are a number of us Pennsic goers on H-Cost.  Does anyone want
>to get together so we can actually put faces to names.  How about on Friday
>of War Weekend (since I'm getting down there on Thursday).  We could meet
>at my camp or at the barn or something...


Heck, I'm game.  (Mention it to Alys Katherine and it can get put on the
master schedule....)

Susan Carroll-Clark
(SCA Nicolaa de Bracton)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 13:50:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 15:01:00 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Want to meet at Pennsic? was Re: H-COST: mostly FO
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

> How about on Friday
>of War Weekend (since I'm getting down there on Thursday).  

Too much to do, too little time.  I'm a Royal Herald, and there's no way I
could meet on the day of Great Court.

You could wander by East Kingdom Royal, though....

And just to keep this on an historic note, I've lost the URL and the date
of the bog dress.  I'm generally early Elizabethan, but don't have enough
time to make lots of fitted garb.  I lost 75 pounds and nothing fits anymore!


Donna Kenton


_____________________________________________________________
Donna Kenton * donna@dabbler.com * http://www.dabbler.com
Baroness Rosalind Bennett * EK Chronicler
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 16:10:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:17:07 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Button Moulds, thank you
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

A big thank you to everyone who wrote back with suggestions. Turns out she 
was just looking for a better grade of covered button, so I think we've 
solved the problem.

Once again the list is a resource unsurpassed!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"The truth of it is, I have no shirt."
W. Shakespeare
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 18:43:49 1999
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000e01bedd68$00836160$0b0bfdd0@sharp-9070->
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th Century Doublet Pattern more 
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:54:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings Hope and list!

Thanks for the pattern references.  I really liked the description of the
cotehardie on the Artifact page.  I was wondering who this Charles of Blois
was and did a search for him.  It could be that the drawing of the
cotehardie is from one of Jean Froissart's paintings, the Chronicles that
Froissart did turn up again and again in the Medieval Women Calendar.

So, here is the distinguished Charles surrendering:
    http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/images/jpeg/i3_0024.jpg
he definitely is not wearing a cotehardie in this painting.

from the Jean Froissart's Chronicles page:
    http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/manuscrits/aman1.htm
more calendar pages.


and apparently (this is slightly off topic), this is the Blois Chateau:

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/lester/images/Renaissance/European.Renaissance/
M01.jpg
or actually the chateau of Blois!  I'd live there in a heart beat!

And while I'm off topic anyway, this is a very COOL chateau also:

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/lester/images/Renaissance/European.Renaissance/
M04.jpg
It is the north front, Chateau of Chambord, Begun 1519, The Keep roofed 1537

Okay, I'm done being off topic.  Back to your regularly scheduled
discussion.....

Sidne

> Not 16th Century, but too good to leave out.  This site
> shows how to cut and fit the Poirpoint of Charles the Bold,
> circa 1367:
> http://fox.nstn.ca/~swan/artifact/article_aissiette.html.
> Not for the beginner!
>

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 3 Aug 1999, Sidne Kneeland wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
> 
> Greetings Hope and list!
> 
> Thanks for the pattern references.  I really liked the description of the
> cotehardie on the Artifact page.  I was wondering who this Charles of Blois
> was and did a search for him.  It could be that the drawing of the
> cotehardie is from one of Jean Froissart's paintings, the Chronicles that
> Froissart did turn up again and again in the Medieval Women Calendar.
> 
I believe that cote-hardie is an actual garment, in a museum somewhere.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 19:56:19 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 21:09:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Marvellous images!  Is it the same Charles?  Was "de Blois
also the Bold?  But your period is about right.  He's
wearing a quilted arming jacket, perhaps 17 layers of linen
quilted together, very good defense against sword cuts,
especially at the shoulders.  His may be covered with silk,
as its so bright colored.  The "enlisted men," if they were
lucky, would wear these without armor, in natural colored
linen.  Did they call them jupons?  Charles would have worn
armor over  his.  Kohler has a section devoted to this
extant, surviving poirpoint. Can't remember where else I've
seen it, but it gets a lot of press in costume books because
of its rarity and interesting cut.  It is a thinner more
elegant silk damask or silk brocade garment than the thickly
padded arming jacket, but designed for an excellent range of
movement.  I wonder if it was worn under the arming jacket,
or simply for "apres battle" wear.

Hope H. Dunlap





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 20:42:54 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Moy Bog Dress
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 22:02:27 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I. Marc Carlson's Some Clothing of the Middle Ages website
has the Bog dress, right next to the poirpoint of Charles de
Blois (yes, de Blois was the Bold, apparently)
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.htm
l.  The poirpoint is at
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/blois.h
tml.
Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Donna Kenton
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 3:01 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: Want to meet at Pennsic? was Re: H-COST:
mostly FO
>
>
>
> -Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
>
> > How about on Friday
> >of War Weekend (since I'm getting down there on
Thursday).
>
> Too much to do, too little time.  I'm a Royal Herald, and
> there's no way I
> could meet on the day of Great Court.
>
> You could wander by East Kingdom Royal, though....
>
> And just to keep this on an historic note, I've lost the
URL
> and the date
> of the bog dress.  I'm generally early Elizabethan, but
don't
> have enough
> time to make lots of fitted garb.  I lost 75 pounds and
> nothing fits anymore!
>
>
> Donna Kenton
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_
> Donna Kenton * donna@dabbler.com * http://www.dabbler.com
> Baroness Rosalind Bennett * EK Chronicler
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:37:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
    Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, August 02, 1999 4:19 PM
Subject: H-COST: sca-garb list


>
>-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I resubscribed to that list, got a message saying that I was
>subscribed, and two weeks later have recieved nothing. Is there a
>subscriber who might be able to explain this?
>Thanks
>Carol
>===
>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
>_____________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 21:54:01 1999
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-Poster: Chantal Pecourt <chanty@idsi.net>

On the contrary, the SCA garb list has been QUITE active lately. Perhaps
you should contact the list manager?

At 12:37 PM 8/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>    Michelle
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Monday, August 02, 1999 4:19 PM
>Subject: H-COST: sca-garb list
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>>I resubscribed to that list, got a message saying that I was
>>subscribed, and two weeks later have recieved nothing. Is there a
>>subscriber who might be able to explain this?
>>Thanks
>>Carol
>>===
>>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
>>_____________________________________________________________
>>Do You Yahoo!?
>>Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 21:58:13 1999
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 3 Aug 1999, Michelle wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
> receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
> list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
There have been plenty of posts just recently to SCA-Garb, so I think
something must have gone wrong with your subscriptions...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 22:03:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: mostly finished object
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:18:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Andrea,

  I went and looked.  It is cute!  I especially like the cap sleeves and the
picadil/tabs at the pointed waistline. My favorite bodices are like that.
   How did you do the neckline of your chemise?  It looks very pretty in the
picture.  Did you embroider?  It looks to be the same color as the rest of
your gown.
   I think it is beautiful and with the finishing touches it will be
exquisite

         Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrea Gideon <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 9:07 AM
Subject: H-COST: mostly finished object


>I've finally finished my first dress since the new baby.  I thought it
would
>never get done.  It is a merchant or middle class Elizabethan bodice and
>skirtin a linen/cotton blend with a warp of green and a weft of light blue.
>The bodice laces up the side backs by handmade eyelets like the Elenora of
>Toledo gown in Janet Arnold.  There is also a matching flat cap.  There are
>sleeves cut out, but as I will be wearing this at Pennsic, they aren't high
>on my list of priorities.  I'm also working on embroidered guards for this
>and hope to have them done in about a month or so.  The baby is starting to
>play be himself now, so they should be done pretty soon.
>
> http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000843.jpg
>
>Andrea
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 22:19:47 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 03:25:32 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37b7b256.130512030@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:37:27 -0700, you wrote:

>
>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?

That's awfully odd. I'm on that list and I get traffic often enough
that I know the list is still going strong. Maybe 2-4 messages a day.

You might want to resub.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 23:42:07 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Feathers
In-Reply-To: <011301bedce7$57cf1da0$213eaccf@costume>
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Penny,
	I think I have tips on feathers in my section on the care of hats.


At 09:02 AM 8/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I am working on a vintage article for a webpage for the use and care of
>feathers.  I realize that feathers are used in millinery.  But are there
>others areas in costume that uses feathers?  I am trying to come up with
>keywords for the search engines to use.  This is such a detailed article I
>don't want anyone who works with feathers to lose out.
>
>Later... Penny Ladnier
>The Costume Gallery
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 20:59:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

             I referred the ladies' plaints to the Listkeeper of SCA-Garb.
Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 22:55:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 23:07:34 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hot reenactors
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

>>>I'm going to try a busk made out of ICE.
>>>.....the "snack size"  ziplock baggies.
>>>5 or 6" wide  (like a regular sandwich bag)
>>>but only 3" deep.  They're made for kids' snacks.
>>>
>>>Partially filled with water,   zipped closed so as
>>>to exclude air pockets,   and frozen solid
>
>Well, for starters -- a number of the baggies
>burst their seams while freezing.  Just a little, but
>that means I'm going to get wet as they melt
>down my front.   SO -- add to the "plan":
>I'll take a box of larger ziplocs  to stick the
>ice busks  INTO,   before each use.


The above plan worked quite nicely!
At 6x3" the ice chunks didn't make very good
"busks"  but worked great in the "bolster" position.
That is,   I put them horizontally,  on the lower
rib cage.   Under the bust,  not touching (don't
think I want ice  *on*  the busts).   Above the
tummy, which also doesn't want to freeze.  But the
rib cage thought it was Just Fine.
    And the second layer of baggy provided enough
insulation that it never felt too cold.

    Even on the cooler day of the weekend (the heat
finally broke)   these gave me added pep and zip,
and I had energy to do things I haven't done in
several years.   (Repeatedly lift the costume
and show the panniers, etc.    And wearing the
black gown all day, rather than removing
the fancy costume and reverting to peasant attire.)

I'd say this is a winner idea.   Try it!
Deb

Deb Baddorf    http://www.inil.com/users/baddorf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 23:24:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 23:35:12 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Moy Bog Dress
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

> From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> I. Marc Carlson's Some Clothing of the Middle Ages website
> has the Bog dress, right next to the poirpoint of Charles de
> Blois (yes, de Blois was the Bold, apparently)

I'm not sure, but if Donna is seeking to avoid "fitted" clothing right
now, the Moy dress might not be the bog dress she is looking for.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug  3 23:37:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 23:52:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hot reenactors
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-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>


Now I'm not certain how much there are, where to get them, or anything
more than that they exist... but rumour has it that there is a little neck
gadjet that puts a cooling element over each jugular, so that it slowly
cools your blood on it's way to your brain and back again.

They might be frightfully modern looking, BUT, it might be a way to cool
yourself without getting wet. (esp if you are in super fancy stuff)  And
rumour has it that they are also pretty small.

ciao,
sarahj

**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 00:05:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 01:16:28 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hot reenactors
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-Poster: Tigershado@aol.com

In a message dated 8/3/99 11:50:01 PM Central Daylight Time, ophelia@dias.net 
writes:

> Now I'm not certain how much there are, where to get them, or anything
>  more than that they exist... but rumour has it that there is a little neck
>  gadjet that puts a cooling element over each jugular, so that it slowly
>  cools your blood on it's way to your brain and back again

Several years ago I saw someone with a kind of bandana/scarf that had a 
pocket for ice. IIRC he still ended up wet when the ice melted. Recently I've 
come across something similar that contains crystals that absorb water & can 
be frozen. Apparently you pat them dry after soaking & they're dry to the 
touch. I suspect the crystals are the same as the ones I've seen used as a 
potting soil additive.

Barbara
Tigershado@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 01:34:36 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Preparing for the Pennsic War 
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <000301bede26$1e728de0$271ffea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>

M'lady, if every SCAdian on the SCA-garb is like me, they are all sewing 
frantically and making final frenzied preparations for the next two weeks. 
I might be wrong, but it is most likely, in my opinion, that the Garb list 
will not start to increase significantly in post volume until the last week 
of August (similarly I imagine the volume will be down in all other SCAdian 
lists until then also).  :-)

Elysant de Holtham
Canton of Fennbricg
Barony Beyond the Mountain
Eastern Kingdom
 
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>    Michelle
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Monday, August 02, 1999 4:19 PM
>Subject: H-COST: sca-garb list
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>>I resubscribed to that list, got a message saying that I was
>>subscribed, and two weeks later have recieved nothing. Is there a
>>subscriber who might be able to explain this?
>>Thanks
>>Carol
>>===
>>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
>>_____________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 01:25:16 1999
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 23:40:15 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Elysant wrote:

> M'lady, if every SCAdian on the SCA-garb is like me, they are all sewing
> frantically and making final frenzied preparations for the next two weeks.

We're not all like you. ;-) Some of us live far enough away that our lives are
completely unaffected by Pennsic. I'll make it someday, but it won't be soon.
I'm sewing frantically, but it's for a friend's wedding.

> I might be wrong, but it is most likely, in my opinion, that the Garb list
> will not start to increase significantly in post volume until the last week
> of August (similarly I imagine the volume will be down in all other SCAdian
> lists until then also)

Not all, but the ones where a significant fraction of the populace will be
attending. That's probably limited to east of the Mississippi and north of the
Mason-Dixon. Out here in Caid, the list traffic doesn't skip a beat.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:Kirby Hall
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Henk: I shall be at Kirby Hall with the Captaine Generalls Musick, based in the large upstairs room in the house. I wear mid-17th century garb (russet bodice, green skirt) with a black veil over my hair.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 13:03:34 +0200
From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Kirby Hall
To: "Historic Costume List (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

I take it that this event is for Joe Public to gaup at.  Does anyone know
the entry price?  If it's not too steep then I might pop along.  I'll put a
photo up on my web site if I'm going so you can look out for me.  This is
also conditional on my dear partner agreeing to take me, which after the
Kentwell fiasco is by no means certain.
Elizabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 06:35:04 1999
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From: "editors; heritage Matters" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <431EB483DFB4D111A2D50000F843C5C401009E9E@rwemsem2.wel.roche.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Kirby Hall
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-Poster: "editors; heritage Matters" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Hi;,
0171-973_3000 should give you details.
Remember though they have a silly rule ; you cant go in costume unless you
are part of it. This is definitely a public gawping event , in their
thousands and thousands.
Is the Kentwell fiasco repeatable?
Dave

>
> -Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
>
> I take it that this event is for Joe Public to gaup at.  Does anyone know
> the entry price?  If it's not too steep then I might pop along.  I'll put
a
> photo up on my web site if I'm going so you can look out for me.  This is
> also conditional on my dear partner agreeing to take me, which after the
> Kentwell fiasco is by no means certain.
> Elizabeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Kirby Hall
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

I think I can lay may trials at Kentwell down without involving legal
problems and common decency.  Basically I went there this year to what I
though would be a wonderful spectacle of Manorial life in 1520.  Oh how
wrong can you get.  I like my costumes to be if not authentic at least
passable.  There were some displaying quite obvious elastic!  Add to that ye
olde blue tack, and you are starting to get the picture.  It is supposed to
be educational am I right, I don't recall any Africans being members of the
gentry in 1520  does anyone else?  If I listed everything that was wrong
with the event then we could be here for a very long time.  Add to which it
was really expensive, you can understand why I am a little hesitant to
repeat the affair.
Elizabeth 

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 08:20:06 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Moy Bog Dress
In-Reply-To: <37A7C300.5E8CE784@utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>I'm not sure, but if Donna is seeking to avoid "fitted" clothing right
>now, the Moy dress might not be the bog dress she is looking for.
>
>Marc

Hmmm... I thought this dress was relatively unstructured.  I must be
confusing it with something else.  Is this the thing that looks Greek, or
the one that is multiple gores like the Greenland gown?

Donna



_____________________________________________________________
Donna Kenton * donna@dabbler.com * http://www.dabbler.com
Baroness Rosalind Bennett * EK Chronicler
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 08:23:31 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Moy Bog Dress
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990804082006.00d28518@neaccess.net>
References: <37A7C300.5E8CE784@utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

At 08:20 AM 8/4/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
>
>>I'm not sure, but if Donna is seeking to avoid "fitted" clothing right
>>now, the Moy dress might not be the bog dress she is looking for.
>>
>>Marc

I found the picture of the bog dress I'm thinking of.

http://www.archaeology.org/online/features/bog/jpegs/huldremose2.jpeg

Definitely not fitted, and definitely NOT the Moy Bog dress.

Thanks!

Donna

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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


>    How did you do the neckline of your chemise?  It looks very pretty in
the
> picture.  Did you embroider?  It looks to be the same color as the rest of
> your gown.
>    I think it is beautiful and with the finishing touches it will be
> exquisite
>
Here is a close up of the blackwork on the collar.
http://martin.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg
Andrea


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Subject: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of the
blackwork on the chemise collar.
 http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg

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Subject: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
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-Poster: Chantal Pecourt <chanty@idsi.net>

Hello
	Does anyone know of a source for cotton bias tape and cotton twill tape? I
can only find polyester. I know I will be able to find some cotton twill
tape at Pennsic but need a source for the rest of the year. Also, is there
such a thing as linen bias tape ( probably a VERY silly question but one
can hope)


Thanks

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 07:45:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 08:03:04 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Moy Bog Dress
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
>I found the picture of the bog dress I'm thinking of.
>http://www.archaeology.org/online/features/bog/jpegs/huldremose2.jpeg
>Definitely not fitted, and definitely NOT the Moy Bog dress.

That's what I was thinking.  Of the two, the Huldremose gown is far better
known, which is sort of odd considering that it's pre-Medieval.  But I hope 
it works for you.

Marc
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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

--- Chantal Pecourt <chanty@idsi.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Chantal Pecourt <chanty@idsi.net>
> 
> Hello
> 	Does anyone know of a source for cotton bias tape
> and cotton twill tape? I
> can only find polyester. 

I bought two gross of cotton twill tape, 1 in black
and 1 in white from Greenberg and Hammer. I don't know
how much is in a gross, but it's a pretty big roll and
I know I won't have to buy it again for a long time.
It was not very expensive either. The number is (212)
246-2835 and they do mail order.


===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

As we happen to have an English Heritage events handbook in the office, I can tell you that the adult entry price is £9.50 (free to EH members). I went as a spectator the first year and can tell you the standards are pretty high.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 08:33:45 1999
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-Poster: Paula Hanna <phanna@tpcgi.com>

The very same thing happened to me. I've been waiting for something on this list for about that
long.
So how about this for a question? Does anyone know any really good sources for very early (actually
pre-) Italian Renaissance dresses. Around 1470-1490. They have the one pattern with about five
dresses that I know of in the Amazon Drygoods catalog. Suggestions for anything else? Paintings?

Michelle wrote:

> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
> receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
> list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>     Michelle

> >-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> >I resubscribed to that list, got a message saying that I was
> >subscribed, and two weeks later have recieved nothing. Is there a
> >subscriber who might be able to explain this?
> >Thanks
> >Carol

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th century jackets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SUN.3.90.990803155938.1152A-100000@muon>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

It's hard to tell...but the one picture I saw which revealed a side seam
showed the seam as pretty much straight up and down, placed a little
farther back than the exact side (lowest point in the armscye, that is).
The front and back pieces flared out at the sides.  The back appears to be
quite wide, and in some cases made of one piece without a center back
seam.

Pictures are shown of it being worn in the 1560s by lower class women; I'd
say it originated from a multipurpose garment worn by both poorer men and
women.  Paintings in the 1570s show a similar garment, but in many cases a
collar has been added and the sleeves are puffed at the top. These jackets
become more widely seen in market paintings than they are during the 1550s
and 1560s.  It is also in the 1570s that the long gown, cut like the aforementioned
jacket, begins showing up in Flemish market paintings.

I can't pinpoint this jacket's origin, but it is a nifty garment.  Really
warm!  I've seen paintings where it laces closed, and one painting showing
it buttoning closed.  Hooks and eyes are another possibility, though I
haven't seen any definitive proof of this fastening method for Flemish
lower-class jackets before the end of the century.

Hope this helps,

Drea


On Tue, 3 Aug 1999, The Purple
Elephant wrote:

> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> I've been looking at 16th century Flemish and Dutch paintings again. :-)
> What I've been looking at, more specifically, are the jackets worn by
> lower class women in the latter part of this century. I'm trying to figure
> out how they would have been put together. I'm not sure whether they
> would have been a similar construction to the informal embroidered linen
> jackets worn by upper class women (narrow centre back piece with seams
> curving into the armholes, two front pieces wrapping around the side to 
> the back with no side seam), or whether they would have had an unshaped
> back and front like the jackets of their male counterparts seem to be,
> perhaps with side seams curving in to the waist, or a separate basque.
> Would poor women be more likely to adapt the styles of poor men or of
> rich women?
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
> Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
> and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
> friendly substance.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: snowfire@mail.snet.net

-Poster: Elysant <Snowfire@mail.snet.net>

I see. I'm in the North East, this is my first year in the SCA and to go to 
Pennsic. Everyone I know is running around trying to get everything organized 
to go. With 10,000 in attendance last year, it seemed logical to me that the 
list postings might be more scarce during and just before (i.e. now) the event.

If that's not it, then I also wonder what's going on with the SCAgarb list.... 

Elysant

>
>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Elysant wrote:
>
>> M'lady, if every SCAdian on the SCA-garb is like me, they are all sewing
>> frantically and making final frenzied preparations for the next two weeks.
>
>We're not all like you. ;-) Some of us live far enough away that our lives are
>completely unaffected by Pennsic. I'll make it someday, but it won't be soon.
>I'm sewing frantically, but it's for a friend's wedding.
>
>> I might be wrong, but it is most likely, in my opinion, that the Garb list
>> will not start to increase significantly in post volume until the last week
>> of August (similarly I imagine the volume will be down in all other SCAdian
>> lists until then also)
>
>Not all, but the ones where a significant fraction of the populace will be
>attending. That's probably limited to east of the Mississippi and north of the
>Mason-Dixon. Out here in Caid, the list traffic doesn't skip a beat.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dietmar
>
>
>"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
> over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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>
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 08:48:41 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Italian Ren -- was sca-garb list
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

<color><param>7F00,0000,0000</param>> So how about this for a question? Does anyone know any really good sources for very early (actually

> pre-) Italian Renaissance dresses. Around 1470-1490. They have the one pattern with about five

> dresses that I know of in the Amazon Drygoods catalog. Suggestions for anything else? Paintings?


</color>I'm not strong on history, but I think 1470 was considered 
Renaissance in Italy rather than "pre." I remember hearing 
something about the Italians getting a head start on everyone else.


Anyway, sources: 

Birbari, Elizabeth. Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. Great 
Britain: W & J Mackay Limited, 1975.


Herald, Jacqueline. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. New 
Jersey: Humanities Press, 1981.


Both books are out of print, but if you can get them through library 
loan, they are about the only book sources around for this period. 
The Herald book has wardrobe accounts as well as paintings. 
Birbari gets more into how the garmets were cut and construction. 
Both base their conclusions on the artwork of the time.


Paintings are a good bet. You can search for artwork at

http://sunserv.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html

This is the Web Galary of Art search engine. Look up artists in 
Italy from 1450 to 1500. You'll get lots of good pictures. I especially 
like Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Ghirlandiao, and Baldovinetti.



<nofill>
Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Italian clothing (was sca-garb list)
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>So how about this for a question? Does anyone know any really good >sources 
>for very early (actually pre-) Italian Renaissance dresses. >Around 
>1470-1490. They have the one pattern with about five
>dresses that I know of in the Amazon Drygoods catalog. Suggestions >for 
>anything else? Paintings?

I'm sorry I'm going to have to take umbrage with that.  Italian Renaissance 
starts much earlier than the 1500's.  Some even say it starts with Petrarch 
and he's from the 1300's!  But that's enough of that.

I started with the Medieval Miscellaneous patterns (easy for a beginner like 
me) but I realized early on that they were of a modern cut and not terribly 
authentic.

If you want a good source, I am exceptionally fond of Elizabeth Birbari's 
book on clothing in Italian Renaissance paintings.  For the life of me, I 
can't remember the title.  I'm sure someone from this list will remember.  I 
have found little else about Italian clothes, just the usual couple of 
pages, or a chapter in an overview about clothing.  I do know of one book 
that covers Venetian dress but I prefer the Lombardy region myself.

I hope there is more help out there, I'm interested in gaining more 
information on this period as well.

Back to lurking...

Allessandre Desiderio
(living in the heighth of the Renaissance in Milan, 1483)


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

My browser says that it can't locate martin.usweb.com.  Is this typed right?
Thanks!  Cynthia


> Here is a close up of the blackwork on the collar.
> http://martin.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
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-Poster: "RSewellBrown" <rsewellbrown@computerlink.com>

Please, would someone give us the address for the SCA-Garb list.

Thank you,
Rebecca in Arizon


>
> -Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
> On Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:37:27 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >
> >I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
> >receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to
the
> >list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>
> That's awfully odd. I'm on that list and I get traffic often enough
> that I know the list is still going strong. Maybe 2-4 messages a day.
>
> You might want to resub.
>
> Margery
> "Do you have any files?"
> "We're the government, of course we have files."
> Millenium
> {*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

We call them Coolies in this neck of the woods. ;)

A lot of camping/outdoor gear stores carry them. 

They hide well under collars, and I've even heard of people using them on
the inside of headwear. (Is that a coolie under your French Hood or are
you just happy to see me?) ;)



						Arlys




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-Poster: Paula Hanna <phanna@tpcgi.com>

Thank you, Linda.

Both books sound absolutely wonderful!

Paula

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Please, would someone give us the address for the SCA-Garb list.

As far as I know, go to   http://coollist.com/  then at the bottom of the page
fill out that you wish to join:   SCA-Garb  and your email address.  Good
luck.  Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 09:00:54 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Thanks!  Very very nice work.  Cynthia

> Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of the
> blackwork on the chemise collar.
>  http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 10:47:35 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 15:53:49 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37aa6015.174998392@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 4 Aug 1999 06:33:36 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>
>-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

>I bought two gross of cotton twill tape, 1 in black
>and 1 in white from Greenberg and Hammer. I don't know
>how much is in a gross, but it's a pretty big roll and
>I know I won't have to buy it again for a long time.
>It was not very expensive either. The number is (212)
>246-2835 and they do mail order.

I just checked the catalog, and they do carry a poly/cotton blend bias
tape, but no all-cotton bias. Probably due to wrinkling/permanence of
crease.
prices (US funds):
1/2"wide: white 12.20/gross black 13.00/gross
1" wide: 16.50 17.15

I seem to recall that a gross is about 1200 of something, presumably
either yards or feet, in this case.

They do carry 100% cotton twill tapes, though. 
36 yard rolls , black or white in the following widths:
1/4" 	2.30/roll
3/8"	 2.60/roll
1/2"	 3.40/roll
5/8"	3.90/roll
3/4" 4.50/roll
1"		5.90/roll

Their minimum order is 10.00.

Hope this is helpful!

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 10:48:11 1999
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 12:00:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: mostly finished object
In-Reply-To: <37A85C10.9043AFFC@serv.net>
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-Poster: Parsla Liepa <parsla@engin.umich.edu>

I got to it, no problem.
  Parsla Liepa

<My browser says that it can't locate martin.usweb.com.  Is this typed right?
<Thanks!  Cynthia
<
<
<> Here is a close up of the blackwork on the collar.
<> http://martin.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 11:00:39 1999
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 <19990804133336.5117.rocketmail@web1306.mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 09:12:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>


>
>I seem to recall that a gross is about 1200 of something, presumably
>either yards or feet, in this case.
>
A gross is a dozen dozen, or 144.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 11:18:39 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 16:24:51 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 4 Aug 1999 09:12:31 -0800, you wrote:

>
>
>>
>>I seem to recall that a gross is about 1200 of something, presumably
>>either yards or feet, in this case.
>>
>A gross is a dozen dozen, or 144.

Ah. Hence the 12 in my vague memory of it's definition (12 x 12 =
144). Thank you. It may stick this time.

Probably yards, given that most everything else in the catalog is
measured in yards, when cut lengths are available.

Sorry for my poor math  *grimace*

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 11:19:13 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: natural fiber tapes
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Also, is there such a thing as linen bias tape ( probably a VERY silly
question but one can hope)>>

Check with Kathy Smith at Textile Reproductions -
(413) 296-4437
Box 48, West Chesterfield MA 01084

She usually has a wide range of  cotton, linen and worsted tapes, tabby and
twill.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 12:09:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:18:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume Society
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.96.990804131736.11940D-100000@dgs.dgsys.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>


I have just realized that my membership in the Costume Society (of
England) has lapsed. Before I send an international cheque, I want to make
sure I know the current rates. Can someone who is a member please email me
with the current rate schedule for overseas members? I believe they
usually give a number in pounds and one in dollars. Thanks!

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 12:22:42 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume Society
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 17:28:42 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:18:54 -0400 (EDT), you wrote:

>
>-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@dgsys.com>
>
>
>I have just realized that my membership in the Costume Society (of
>England) has lapsed. Before I send an international cheque, I want to make
>sure I know the current rates. Can someone who is a member please email me
>with the current rate schedule for overseas members? I believe they
>usually give a number in pounds and one in dollars. Thanks!

Here's the web address, I think:

http://www.bath.uk.com/CostumeSociety/default.htm

Hope it's helpful!

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 12:30:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 12:42:04 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Cotton bias can be found at shops that cater to quilters. Or it's very easy 
to make your own, that's what I do.

Check this source for linen tapes--rings a little bell.
http://www.fred.net/stull/victoria.html

Kim


At 09:01 AM 8/4/99 -0400, you wrote:

>-Poster: Chantal Pecourt <chanty@idsi.net>
>
>Hello
>         Does anyone know of a source for cotton bias tape and cotton 
> twill tape? I
>can only find polyester. I know I will be able to find some cotton twill
>tape at Pennsic but need a source for the rest of the year. Also, is there
>such a thing as linen bias tape ( probably a VERY silly question but one
>can hope)
>
>
>Thanks
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 13:39:17 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:54:05 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Hope asked:
> Marvellous images!  Is it the same Charles?  Was "de Blois
> also the Bold? 

No, Charles de Blois, a younger son of the house of Chatillon, was married
to the heiress of Brittany in 1337 and tried to succeed the duke in 1341,
but this was contested by the English backed John de Montfort, who had
equal rights to the duchy. He died 1364. Charles the Bold was duke of
Burgundy 1467-1477. The pourpoint was supposed to be possession of the
former, but I doubt this. It looks too late 14th c to me. Charles the Bold
would have worn a qute different pourpoint or doublet.

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 14:50:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 16:01:21 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for Cotton twill and bias tape
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 8/4/99 9:36:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mirv01@yahoo.com 
writes:

<<  I don't know
 how much is in a gross >>
12 dozen or 144...isn't it?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:20:05 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:34:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: StrangeGirl <rio@austin.rr.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list


It ,absolutely,  was not my intention to upset everyone that actively
participates in the sca garb list. If it came out bad, I apologize.

StrangeGirl,
    I probably did do something wrong when I tried to subscribe.  Can you
email me with the proper address for the list manager?
    Thank you!
>-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>On Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:37:27 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>
>>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
>>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
>>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>
>That's awfully odd. I'm on that list and I get traffic often enough
>that I know the list is still going strong. Maybe 2-4 messages a day.
>
>You might want to resub.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:28:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 13:42:11 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

After reading the attached I couldn't see why anyone would have been upset.  I
hope that you got the information you needed!  Cynthia

> It ,absolutely,  was not my intention to upset everyone that actively
> participates in the sca garb list. If it came out bad, I apologize.
>
> StrangeGirl,
>     I probably did do something wrong when I tried to subscribe.  Can you
> email me with the proper address for the list manager?
>     Thank you!
> >-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
> >
> >On Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:37:27 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
> >>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
> >>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
> >
> >That's awfully odd. I'm on that list and I get traffic often enough
> >that I know the list is still going strong. Maybe 2-4 messages a day.
> >
> >You might want to resub.
> >
> >Margery
> >"Do you have any files?"
> >"We're the government, of course we have files."
> >Millenium
> >{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:40:07 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sca garb list
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:53:33 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BEDE80.BDEF2860
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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When I got my mail today, I couldn't figure out why I had so much. I =
started going through all my mail and a lot of them were about the post =
I made regarding the sca list. I posted an apology for stirring things =
up.=20
    However, once I got through about 15 of the 50 some-odd posts, I got =
to one from the list manager from the sca list.  Carol, I don't know how =
you did it but, thank you! Wow!=20


Does anyone have a source for grommets?  I was buying them by the gross =
in small brown boxes (don't know the company name off hand, but I called =
them and they don't do private orders) from Orchard Supply.  They either =
aren't carrying them anymore or just not keeping them in stock.   I have =
enough now but don't want to be in a panic again next time I need =
another box.
    Michelle
   =20

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BEDE80.BDEF2860
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>When I got my mail today, I couldn't =
figure out=20
why I had so much. I started going through all my mail and a lot of them =
were=20
about the post I made regarding the sca list. I posted an apology for =
stirring=20
things up. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; However, once I =
got through=20
about 15 of the 50 some-odd posts, I got to one from the list manager =
from the=20
sca list.&nbsp; Carol, I don't know how you did it but, thank you! Wow!=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone have a source for grommets?&nbsp; I was =
buying=20
them by the gross in small brown boxes (don't know the company name off =
hand,=20
but I called them and they don't do private orders) from Orchard =
Supply.&nbsp;=20
They either aren't carrying them anymore or just not keeping them in=20
stock.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have enough now but don't want to be in a panic =
again next=20
time I need another box.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BEDE80.BDEF2860--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:41:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 13:53:02 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

       Gwenllyan, Listkeeper of SCA-Garb wrote me to say that she has
subscribed the other two ladies, Michelle and Carol, who had had no msgs.
from the list since sub'ing.  I have fwd. Paula's msg. to her, as well.
Apparently, the webserver management page has been down and the listserver
there is having problems, which are being worked on.   If anyone else here
has trouble subscribing, please write to me, and I will let Gwenllyan know.
 For Gwenllyan's sake, I ask your patience, please.  Carol, aka: Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:42:45 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:56:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Beautiful!

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrea Gideon <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 5:31 AM
Subject: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork


>
>Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of the
>blackwork on the chemise collar.
> http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 15:57:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 14:10:52 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> No, Charles de Blois, a younger son of the house of Chatillon, was married
> to the heiress of Brittany in 1337 and tried to succeed the duke in 1341,
> but this was contested by the English backed John de Montfort, who had
> equal rights to the duchy. He died 1364. Charles the Bold was duke of
> Burgundy 1467-1477. The pourpoint was supposed to be possession of the
> former, but I doubt this. It looks too late 14th c to me. Charles the Bold
> would have worn a qute different pourpoint or doublet.

I'm confused.  Don't you mean that the pourpoint looks to belong to Charles of
Blois because it is 14th century?  It certainly isn't 15th century is it?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>


At 08:39 AM 8/4/99, RSwellBrown@computerlink.com wrote:  Please, would someone
give us the address for the SCA-Garb list. Thank you,  Rebecca in Arizon

              Here is the subscription info., but keep in mind that the
listserv is having problems at present.  You unsubscribe by writing to the
listserv, too.  For now, if you sub. and are not getting msgs. from the list,
you might wish to view what's going on by reading the archives, for which the
url is also inc. below.  I am attempting to send this plain text, but if
Eudora
does as it pleases, as it often does, it may have 'html' gobbledy-gook in it,
and for that, I beg your forbearance, as I have not found any remedy--it's
just
one of those wonderful 'features'.  Carol [aka: Gra/inne ingen Domnaill
Ilda/naig]

     To subscribe, send an e-mail message to:   listserv@list.uvm.edu  The
entire message should read:               sub sca-garb Your (Human!)
Name        Thus, if your name is Bill Clinton, you would send:  sub sca-garb
Bill Clinton
     [Also Please] SAVE THIS!!!  To leave the sca-garb list, send e-mail to: 
listserv@list.uvm.edu   and put the signoff command (unsub will also work) as
the first line of your message with the list name. For example:         
signoff sca-garb  or     unsub sca-garb
     If you'd like to visit the archives which began with the list's move,
see:   http://list.uvm.edu/archives/sca-garb.html




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 16:51:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 15:01:39 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca garb list
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:53 PM 8/4/99 -0700, you wrote: When I got my mail today, I couldn't
figure
out why I had so much. I started going through all my mail and a lot of them
were about the post I made regarding the sca list. I posted an apology for
stirring things up. 
   However, once I got through about 15 of the 50 some-odd posts, I got to one
from the list manager from the sca list.  Carol, I don't know how you did it
but, thank you! Wow! 
             Simply--I wrote the Listmistress who handsubscribed you.   She is
very good about keeping on top of problems once she is informed of them.  What
one does not know of, one cannot fix.  As for me, I consider it part of the
ideals of the Society for Creative Anachronism to lend my aid when/as I may. 
It is my pleasure and my duty to do so.
   Does anyone have a source for grommets?  I was buying them by the gross in
small brown boxes (don't know the company name off hand, but I called them and
they don't do private orders) from Orchard Supply.  They either aren't
carrying
them anymore or just not keeping them in stock.   I have enough now but don't
want to be in a panic again next time I need another box. --  Michelle

This was posted to h-costume &/or SCA-Garb sometime previously, I believe: 
aleed wrote:
> Of all the grommets I've tried, the OO size from Greenberg & Hammer are
> the best for me.  Not only are they cheaper than anywhere else ($5 per
> gross), but they're also made of brass rather than, well, whatever Dritz
> grommets are made of.  Harder to pound in, but much smoother & flat when
> finished.
    G&H's 800 number: 1 800 955 5135.  Their new catalog won't be out for a
couple more months (I'm now on the mailing list). 
    Description re the store:
http://www.teasociety.com/victorian/reviews/greenberg.html   -- Little Bird
<tuppence@RICOCHET.NET>
      
 Carol / Gr/ainne


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 17:33:15 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 22:55:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Oooh, pretty!  Is it an original pattern?

 Liadain
----------
> Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of
the
> blackwork on the chemise collar.
>  http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 19:56:52 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th century jackets
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 4 Aug 1999, aleed wrote:

> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> It's hard to tell...but the one picture I saw which revealed a side seam
> showed the seam as pretty much straight up and down, placed a little
> farther back than the exact side (lowest point in the armscye, that is).
> The front and back pieces flared out at the sides.  The back appears to be
> quite wide, and in some cases made of one piece without a center back
> seam.
That sort of makes sense, yes, and would fit with most of the pictures
of man's coats I saw.
> 
> Pictures are shown of it being worn in the 1560s by lower class women; I'd
> say it originated from a multipurpose garment worn by both poorer men and
> women.  Paintings in the 1570s show a similar garment, but in many cases a
> collar has been added and the sleeves are puffed at the top. These jackets
> become more widely seen in market paintings than they are during the 1550s
> and 1560s.  It is also in the 1570s that the long gown, cut like the aforementioned
> jacket, begins showing up in Flemish market paintings.
Yeah, I also saw some with puffed sleeves and collars, but none with
epaulettes, which were common on the upper class ladies' linen jackets.
> 
> I can't pinpoint this jacket's origin, but it is a nifty garment.  Really
> warm!  I've seen paintings where it laces closed, and one painting showing
> it buttoning closed.  Hooks and eyes are another possibility, though I
> haven't seen any definitive proof of this fastening method for Flemish
> lower-class jackets before the end of the century.
> 
> Hope this helps,
Yes, very much so, thank you!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 20:34:44 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 18:48:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca-garb list


>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>After reading the attached I couldn't see why anyone would have been upset.
I
>hope that you got the information you needed!  Cynthia
>
    I had read through several responses and by that point, I was wishing
that I had never said anything about 'stimulating the list.'   I don't know
how to 'capture' and copy from numberous posts to copy into one, otherwise I
probably would have.  Instead, I responded to the last one I saw.
   I am happy that Carol new who to contact, as I am now subscribed thanks
to her.  I am amazed by the resourcefulness of the list members!  You all
are so wonderful!
      Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 22:56:55 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have a question about upper class Elizabethan bodices. 

I'm specifically interested in the ones with the low square neck, sometimes
called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?  

I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't believe
I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone? 

Margo Anderson

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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Just off the cuff, I'd say no.  I have all my books packed up for Pennsic 
(SCA), so I can't get to them at the moment.  I can not recall every seeing a 
French cut bodice (ie the lower squared neck) mis matching the skirt. I think 
it's as you say..The doublets could vary, but not anything else...I am going 
to peruse some of the portrait galleries on line and see if I can come up 
with something.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug  4 23:39:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 23:48:12 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hot, tapes
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>Now I'm not certain how much there are, where to get them, or anything
>more than that they exist... but rumour has it that there is a little neck
>gadjet that puts a cooling element over each jugular, so that it slowly
>cools your blood on it's way to your brain and back again.
>
>They might be frightfully modern looking, BUT, it might be a way to cool
>yourself without getting wet. (esp if you are in super fancy stuff)  And
>rumour has it that they are also pretty small.
>
Hot:
Yes, they are modern looking, but they are pretty small.  They come in
black and brushed silver.  They work like mini air-conditioners, with cool
plates that sit on the side of your neck, and a little blower that sends
cool air either up or down, depending on which way you wear it.  Runs on
(IIRC) 4 AA batteries.  They are about $49 from Sharper Image
(www.sharperimage.com, or something like that).

Tapes:
We got a roll of the bias to make hoop casings, made (3) 6 foot diameter
hoop petticoats (for fantasy, not historical, but gives you an idea), and
there is still plenty left.  Definitely a good buy!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 04:33:50 1999
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From: "Brad Wilson" <LordEdward@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908040540.BAA12636@smtp.snet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Preparing for the Pennsic War 
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-Poster: "Brad Wilson" <LordEdward@bellsouth.net>

> M'lady, if every SCAdian on the SCA-garb is like me, they are all sewing


I know this is a bit off-topic, but can some kind person send me the address
for the SCA-GARB list ??

Thanks,

Ld. Edward de Molay
Shire of Tal Mere
Meridies

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990804224349.55F58F5197@sight.vcn.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>



>
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>
>   Oooh, pretty!  Is it an original pattern?
>
>  Liadain
> ----------

Actually, it's from "New Stiches" magazine from a couple years ago.  You'd
be surprised at what you find in cross-stich magazines.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 08:46:44 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
In-Reply-To: <199908050406.VAA21168@zeus.directcon.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I've never seen any pictures of french gowns or "straight-bodied gowns"
having different skirts from the gown bodice.  In all the wardrobe
accounts I've read, gowns are mentioned as made basically of one fabric
with different decorations.  

If you do find any evidence of this, I'd be interested in hearing about
it.

Thanks,

Drea

 On Wed, 4 Aug 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> I have a question about upper class Elizabethan bodices. 
> 
> I'm specifically interested in the ones with the low square neck, sometimes
> called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
> sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?  
> 
> I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't believe
> I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone? 
> 
> Margo Anderson
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>
Message-Id: <199908051402.JAA03302@post.its.mcw.edu>
Subject: H-COST: California Re-enactors
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 09:02:56 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <000b01bede0b$8b7ec4a0$b984bece@sidne> from "Sidne Kneeland" at Aug 3, 99 04:54:35 pm
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-Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>

Hi All-

I am reading 'Two Years Before the Mast" by ___ ___ Dana.  Apparently
written in 1840 regarding two years spent on board a merchant ship.  I
have heard it considered good reading for people who wish to understnad
life on board a sailing vessel.  At the moment, the narrator is talking
about the inhabitants of California, what they wear, buy, trade, and what
the towns/villages look like.  I just thought the old-California
re-enactors might find it interesting.

-Marie

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From: lilinah@grin.net
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

To reiterate again what Carol has already said before:
The SCA Garb list is NO LONGER on coollist.

To subscribe, send a message similar to the following:

To: listserv@list.uvm.edu
From: Your Name <you@yourISP.whatever>
Subject: sub sca-garb

sub sca-garb Your Name

Obviously, well, i hope it's obvious, where it says Your Name you put in
your name and where it says <you@yourISP.whatever> you put in your e-mail
address.

Hope this clears things up for folks.

Lilinah




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 09:35:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 09:51:55 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
In-reply-to: <199908051356.HAA12250@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>> No, Charles de Blois, a younger son of the house of Chatillon, was married
>> to the heiress of Brittany in 1337 and tried to succeed the duke in 1341,
>> but this was contested by the English backed John de Montfort, who had
>> equal rights to the duchy. He died 1364. Charles the Bold was duke of
>> Burgundy 1467-1477. The pourpoint was supposed to be possession of the
>> former, but I doubt this. It looks too late 14th c to me. Charles the Bold
>> would have worn a qute different pourpoint or doublet.
>
>I'm confused.  Don't you mean that the pourpoint looks to belong to
Charles of
>Blois because it is 14th century?  It certainly isn't 15th century is it?

I believe she is saying that the garment is not 15th century, but it is 14th
century, and so, of the two, it more likely belongs to Charles of Blois.

The final detail, of course, is that the museum that owns it says it was owned
by Blois, not "the Bold".

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 09:44:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 10:57:01 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: book for sale
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

For sale:
"Art in Ornament and Dress", with illustrations (some hand colored) and
translated from the French of Charles Blanc
New York: Scribner, Welford and Armstrong, 1877.
Good condition, ex-library.

Email me *off list* for price. First come, first serve.


Deborah
pulliam@acadia.net


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> >From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> >> No, Charles de Blois, a younger son of the house of Chatillon, was married
> >> to the heiress of Brittany in 1337 and tried to succeed the duke in 1341,
> >> but this was contested by the English backed John de Montfort, who had
> >> equal rights to the duchy. He died 1364. Charles the Bold was duke of
> >> Burgundy 1467-1477. The pourpoint was supposed to be possession of the
> >> former, but I doubt this. It looks too late 14th c to me. Charles the Bold
> >> would have worn a qute different pourpoint or doublet.
> >
> >I'm confused.  Don't you mean that the pourpoint looks to belong to
> Charles of
> >Blois because it is 14th century?  It certainly isn't 15th century is it?
> 
> I believe she is saying that the garment is not 15th century, but it is 14th
> century, and so, of the two, it more likely belongs to Charles of Blois.
> 
> The final detail, of course, is that the museum that owns it says it was owned
> by Blois, not "the Bold".

I think the problem is that we are talking about 2 different garments 
here. In Kohler there is a coat which says it belongs to "Charles the 
Bold." It is not a pourpoint at all. The pourpoint is a doublet like 
garment and there are several photographs of it in various other 
books, but none in Kohler.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 08:52:17 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: blackwork
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
>> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>>
>>
>>   Oooh, pretty!  Is it an original pattern?
>>
>>  Liadain
>> ----------
>
>Actually, it's from "New Stiches" magazine from a couple years ago.  You'd
>be surprised at what you find in cross-stich magazines.
>Andrea
>
"New Stitches" is one of the only magazines I've ever seen that
consistantly publishes blackwork, and they do wonderful designs!  This is
the magazine that had blackwork and crosstitch or crewel versions of Henry
VIII and all his wives several years ago.  That's when I first noticed it.
They often have "master classes" on blackwork.

Also, following another line of interest on h-costume/h-needlework
recently: Since the woman who owns the magazine (name escapes me right now)
also owns a working farm, she took the time and space to grow flax (?) to
make linen and did the whole job, harvesting, rhetting, spinning, weaving
and had a three-part journal of the job.  I've managed to lose part two in
the house somewhere, but it was quite interesting.  I remember how often
she mentioned the smell of the process.

"New Stitches" is a British needlework magazine and really is quite
interesting in the patterns and types of needlework it shows.  It covers
making designs on and off the computer and historical designs and lots in
between.  I don't buy it every issue but look for it every time I hit my
local Borders Bookstore or Barnes and Noble.

LynnD
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 13:26:09 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
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-Poster: Simone89@aol.com



 On Wed, 4 Aug 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> I have a question about upper class Elizabethan bodices. 
> 
> I'm specifically interested in the ones with the low square neck, sometimes
> called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
> sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?  
> 
> I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't believe
> I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone? 
> 

There is actually a beautiful portrait of a red and white gown. White bodice 
/ red velvet skirt with spiderwebs embroidered on it. I think it's 
tremendous..... One of the few I've seen.
Simone
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 19:44:29 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,
> 
Cynthia wrote:
> I'm confused.  Don't you mean that the pourpoint looks to belong to
Charles of
> Blois because it is 14th century?  It certainly isn't 15th century is it?
> 
What I meant was that the pourpoint said to be of Charles of Blois, died
1364, looks to me to be of ca 1380-90 so it could not have been his.

The confusion about the coat said to be of Charles the Bold has already led
to a later date in a book about the Burgundian Loot form 1963. It is
supposed to be from ca 1480-90 and then can't have belonged to Charles the
Bold who died at Nancy in 1477.

Henk

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Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 10:55:16 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>
> > I'm confused.  Don't you mean that the pourpoint looks to belong to
> > Charles of Blois because it is 14th century?  It certainly isn't 15th
> century is it?
>
> What I meant was that the pourpoint said to be of Charles of Blois, died
> 1364, looks to me to be of ca 1380-90 so it could not have been his.

Oh!  So, it's a good pourpoint example for 1380-1390 we just can't claim we
know original ownership.  *nod*  Okay.

> The confusion about the coat said to be of Charles the Bold has already led
> to a later date in a book about the Burgundian Loot form 1963. It is
> supposed to be from ca 1480-90 and then can't have belonged to Charles the
> Bold who died at Nancy in 1477.

I was under the impression that circa meant give or take a couple years or
approxiamtely.  So, hey if they made it for him right before his death,
couldn't it still qualify?  I know that in the 14th century, especially the mid
part of the century, clothing styles were changing so rapidly that you can
narrow a garment down to a decade.  Was this also true for late 15th century?

Thanks,
Cynthia



>
>
> Henk
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A>> called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
>> sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?  
>> 
>> I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't believe
>> I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone? 
>> 
>
>There is actually a beautiful portrait of a red and white gown. White bodice 
>/ red velvet skirt with spiderwebs embroidered on it.

Is that the Gherharts "Portrait of An Unknown Lady' on pg 88 of QE's
Wardrobe?  The date is given as 1605-10, which is Jacobean, not Elizabethan.
Unmatched bodice skirt combinations did seem to start to be popular then,
which we could theorize came from the new Queen plundering QE's stock and
having things remade in various combinations.

 I drool for the spiderweb skirt, though.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 13:46:00 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 11:59:19 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

   There is a portrait of Queen Marguerite as a girl. C 1560 (Possibly a
little bit earlier than what you are looking for but...I hope it helps!)
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/period.styles/costumes/images/elizabthan.women/
cm11.jpg
This is a beautiful portrait, unfortunately, only from the waist up.  Even
though she is to be a queen and she is wearing lots of jewelery to show her
station, her sleeves don't match.
     I know you asked about the skirt and bodice matching but considering
the cost and also how rare fabric was supposed to be at that time, it leads
me to believe that we are too stuck on making everything match.  Also,
portraits were done in their 'finest' clothing and the artist could have
been pressed to represent it as a perfectly matched color.
   If  I were you and I found a pretty unmatched combination, I would go for
it!
   Michelle

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, August 05, 1999 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>A>> called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
>>> sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?
>>>
>>> I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't
believe
>>> I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone?
>>>
>>
>>There is actually a beautiful portrait of a red and white gown. White
bodice
>>/ red velvet skirt with spiderwebs embroidered on it.
>
>Is that the Gherharts "Portrait of An Unknown Lady' on pg 88 of QE's
>Wardrobe?  The date is given as 1605-10, which is Jacobean, not
Elizabethan.
>Unmatched bodice skirt combinations did seem to start to be popular then,
>which we could theorize came from the new Queen plundering QE's stock and
>having things remade in various combinations.
>
> I drool for the spiderweb skirt, though.
>
>Margo
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 19:08:20 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 5 Aug 1999 11:59:19 -0700, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>   There is a portrait of Queen Marguerite as a girl. C 1560 (Possibly a
>little bit earlier than what you are looking for but...I hope it helps!)
>http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/period.styles/costumes/images/elizabthan.women/
>cm11.jpg
>This is a beautiful portrait, unfortunately, only from the waist up.  Even
>though she is to be a queen and she is wearing lots of jewelery to show her
>station, her sleeves don't match.
>     I know you asked about the skirt and bodice matching but considering
>the cost and also how rare fabric was supposed to be at that time, it leads
>me to believe that we are too stuck on making everything match.  Also,
>portraits were done in their 'finest' clothing and the artist could have
>been pressed to represent it as a perfectly matched color.
>   If  I were you and I found a pretty unmatched combination, I would go for
>it!
>   Michelle
If you have troube getting to this (I did) try this link:

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Elizabethan.Women/CM11.html

the server spat me back out and I had to backtrack to the root and
wander around until I found it.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 14:22:39 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:59 AM 8/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>   There is a portrait of Queen Marguerite as a girl. C 1560 (Possibly a
>little bit earlier than what you are looking for but...I hope it helps!)
>http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/period.styles/costumes/images/elizabthan.women/
>cm11.jpg
>This is a beautiful portrait, unfortunately, only from the waist up.  Even
>though she is to be a queen and she is wearing lots of jewelery to show her
>station, her sleeves don't match.

Sleeves not matching is quite common.  that's because sleeves were
considered to be a separate garment. 

I believe that the bodice and skirt were usually sewn together, making a
dress, and as such the aesthetic was for matching fabric.  In fact, the
whole idea of non-matching bodice and skirts, even for the lower orders, is
looking less and less common  the more research I do.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 14:27:21 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-needlework" <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>
Subject: H-COST: Winter Events @ Williamsburg
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 15:36:32 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I just received information about three winter events at Williamsburg, VA:

Event 1:
Williamsburg Festival Week (a must-do every year) Feb. 24-27, 2000
webpage: http://www.quiltfest.com/wfw/wfwhome.htm
Four areas of Specialties:
A. Mid-Atlantic Quilt Festival
B. Mid-Atlantic Wearable Art Festival
C. Mid-Atlantic Fiber Arts Fair
D. Vintage Fashion & Accessories Show

Event 2.
18th Century Clothing: Revealing Fashions @ Colonial Williamsburg, Jan.
9-11, 2000
For a brochure call: 757-220-7182 or email: tengle@cwf.org
Lectures:
A. Connoisseurship: The Art and Mystery of Clothing
B. A short gown, an apron, and a hat: English Dress in the 18th  Century
C. Clothing Then and Now: 18th Century Styles and Modern Bodies
D. Dressed for the Wall: Costume in Colonial Portraits
E. Costume Close-Up: An Inside Look
F. Clues in Cloth: Conservation of Historic Costume
G. Slips and Sprigs: Clothing Children during the 18th Century
H. Short Gowns, Bedgowns, and Jackets, 1750-1800: A Survey of Current
Knowledge

Event 3.
Textile Art Studies at Colonial Williamsburg Jan. 12-15, 2000
For a brochure call: 757-220-7182 or email: tengle@cwf.org
Classes and Lectures:
A. Behind the Scenes in the Textile Collection with Linda Baumgarten and Kim
Ivey
B. Decorative Fringe I: Introducing the Finishing Touch for 18th Century
Apparel (workshop)
C. Ann Holewll Sampler (two sessions)
D. Constructing an 18th Century Infant's Gown (workshop)
E. Feet of Ingenuity: Calcealogy, An Old Science (workshop)
F. Sarah Leonard's Wedding Pocket
G. Suit Coats behind the Seams: Studying Pattern and Materials (workshop)
H. Caring for Costume and Accessories
I. Tasselmaking Workshop: Introducing Passementerie (workshop)
J. Making a Gown in the 18th Century Manner (workshop)
K. 18th Century Pinball (workshop)
L. Coloring Needlework Yarns with 18th Century Dyes (workshop)
M. Sew On and Sew Forth (workshop)
N. Decorative Fringe II: More Finishing Touches for 18th Century Apparel
(workshop)
O. Keeping It Covered: Hats for Fashionable Women and Men
P. Introduction to wigmaking: Weaving Hair on a Tress Loom

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com





Later... Penny Ladnier
The Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 14:43:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 14:59:35 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Poirpoint of Charles the Bold
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>I think the problem is that we are talking about 2 different garments 
>here. In Kohler there is a coat which says it belongs to "Charles the 
>Bold." It is not a pourpoint at all. The pourpoint is a doublet like 
>garment and there are several photographs of it in various other 
>books, but none in Kohler.

The Pourpoint of Charles of Blois resembles, although not in any great detail
fig. 196 in Kohler, while the "Coat of Charles the Bold" is fig. 199.

>From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>What I meant was that the pourpoint said to be of Charles of Blois, died
>1364, looks to me to be of ca 1380-90 so it could not have been his.
>
>The confusion about the coat said to be of Charles the Bold has already led
>to a later date in a book about the Burgundian Loot form 1963. It is
>supposed to be from ca 1480-90 and then can't have belonged to Charles the
>Bold who died at Nancy in 1477.

Ah, interesting.

>From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>Oh!  So, it's a good pourpoint example for 1380-1390 we just can't claim we
>know original ownership.  *nod*  Okay.

I think the *pourpoint*'s original owner is not in doubt (at the moment), it's
the *coat*'s original owner that's in question.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 15:07:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Victorian Tear Catcher 
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 99 16:19:59 -0000
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 1.1
From: <mkings@earthlink.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Dear Collective Wisdom:

Am trying to find any reference that I can follow up on re: Victorian 
Tear Catcher or also called Widow's Tear Catcher. Some have suggested 
that it appeared during the US Civil War.

The tear chatcher is usually glass, @ 4" long with stopper, slim 
rectangle in shape.

Thanks in advance for any help!   Margo King, Washington Antiques Show

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 15:38:32 1999
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 16:48:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
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-Poster: Simone89@aol.com

In a message dated 8/5/1999 2:04:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
 -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 
 A>> called "French Bodices". Are there any examples in paintings or other
 >> sources which show them NOT matching the upper/overskirt?  
 >> 
 >> I've seen doublet style bodices with unmatched skirts, but I don't believe
 >> I've ever seen the other style unmatched. Anyone? 
 >> 
 >
 >There is actually a beautiful portrait of a red and white gown. White 
bodice 
 >/ red velvet skirt with spiderwebs embroidered on it.
 
 Is that the Gherharts "Portrait of An Unknown Lady' on pg 88 of QE's
 Wardrobe?  The date is given as 1605-10, which is Jacobean, not Elizabethan.
 Unmatched bodice skirt combinations did seem to start to be popular then,
 which we could theorize came from the new Queen plundering QE's stock and
 having things remade in various combinations.
 
  I drool for the spiderweb skirt, though.
 
 Margo
  >>


I tend to think that fashion doesn't suddenly appear in a formal portrait. It 
makes sense to me that as people recycle clothing items that look good 
together but don't necessarily match would have been worn. Especially 
embroidered pieces. I think it may even have occurred more at the middle 
class level, as women passed down clothing to their daughters or nieces. 
Someone had to have decided they didn't care if it matched because it looked 
striking! What are y'alls thoughts on this?
Simone
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 15:40:41 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Article on "swing lifestyle" in SF Weekly
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 13:54:14 -0700 
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

http://www.sfweekly.com/1999/current/feature1-1.html

is a very pleasant article about San Franciscans who enjoy wearing '30s and
'40s clothes all the time, not just at dances.

---
Elizabeth Hanes Perry
Rogue Wave Software 
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-Poster: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>

I'm inquiring if anyone knows of a source, preferrably on-line, on
15-16th century Spanish clothing. I've been searching for days with no
luck. I would appreciate any leads.

Lady Zy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 17:20:09 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Article on "swing lifestyle" in SF Weekly
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Thanks for posting this.  I especially enjoyed it because Sara Klotz De
Aguilar, featured in the article, is my sister.

Margo Anderson

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: revolution dress
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 15:59:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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A big warm hug to everyone that helped me locate the pattern I wanted.  =
Lacis turned out to be great.  I called them and ordered the pattern =
from them on the 3rd and got it today, the 5th.  Amazing service, unlike =
that of AlterYears.  Every time I have ordered from them it has taked =
them 2 to 4 months to get my order to me.
    You will probably hear more from me when I try to make it, =
hopefully, none will be curse words. :)

         Michelle

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>A big warm hug to everyone that =
helped me locate=20
the pattern I wanted.&nbsp; Lacis turned out to be great.&nbsp; I called =
them=20
and ordered the pattern from them on the 3rd and got it today, the =
5th.&nbsp;=20
Amazing service, unlike that of AlterYears.&nbsp; Every time I have =
ordered from=20
them it has taked them 2 to 4 months to get my order to me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; You will probably =
hear more=20
from me when I try to make it, hopefully, none will be curse words.=20
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 17:49:30 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Elizabethan bodice question
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 16:02:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Oops!
   Thank you Margery
->If you have troube getting to this (I did) try this link:
>
>http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Elizabethan.Women/
CM11.html
>
>the server spat me back out and I had to backtrack to the root and
>wander around until I found it.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 17:55:14 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Article on "swing lifestyle" in SF Weekly
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 16:08:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

   Looks like a lot of fun.  I can't get over the tattoo part though.  I can
see penciling in your seams but tattooing?  Ouch!
   Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: 'h-costume@indra.com' <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, August 05, 1999 1:44 PM
Subject: H-COST: Article on "swing lifestyle" in SF Weekly


>
>-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
>
>http://www.sfweekly.com/1999/current/feature1-1.html
>
>is a very pleasant article about San Franciscans who enjoy wearing '30s and
>'40s clothes all the time, not just at dances.
>
>---
>Elizabeth Hanes Perry
>Rogue Wave Software
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 18:49:36 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: revolution dress
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 20:06:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If you have any questions about details, there is a similar
gown shown in Nancy Bradfield's *Costume in Detail* on page
73-74 showing how the front closes, the horizontal waistline
is achieved with the "apron skirt."  This gown is not a
travelling costume, however, as it is a print material with
trailing flower sprays in dark red, blue, and green on a
pink background.  Tiny red pin dots and tiny yellow diamonds
are also in the background, although the yellow has been run
over with a blue pencil to yield green.  This has an 8"
train (no ruffle like Sally's).  No caraco-like vestigial
skirt above the back skirt. Sleeves ending below the elbow
darted into a narrow band (no engagements).  Somewhat lower
cut over the bosom.  Frustratingly, the thingys which close
the bodice front in a hidden manner are not identified or
shown.  Someone at Tidy's Symposium had a similar bodice
that met edge to edge and she said it was *sewn* closed
every time it was worn!   I would think hooks and eyes would
do.  The closure method is meant to be invisible anyway!
Bradfield says worn with 1 - 3/4" French heeled shoes (my
contemporary term, not hers), mob cap, and kercheif over the
bosom.

Hope H. Dunlap



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On Behalf Of Michelle
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 1999 7:00 PM
To: costume list
Subject: H-COST: revolution dress


A big warm hug to everyone that helped me locate the pattern
I wanted.  Lacis turned out to be great.  I called them and
ordered the pattern from them on the 3rd and got it today,
the 5th.  Amazing service, unlike that of AlterYears.  Every
time I have ordered from them it has taked them 2 to 4
months to get my order to me.
    You will probably hear more from me when I try to make
it, hopefully, none will be curse words. :)

         Michelle

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charset=3Diso-8859-1">



<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D110093523-05081999><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D3>If you=20
have any questions about details, there is a similar gown shown in Nancy =

Bradfield's Costume in Detail on page 73-74 showing how the front =
closes, the=20
horizontal waistline is achieved</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT> </P>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-h-costume@indra.com=20
    [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B>=20
    Michelle<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 05, 1999 7:00 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
    costume list<BR><B>Subject:</B> H-COST: revolution=20
dress<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>A big warm hug to everyone that =
helped me=20
    locate the pattern I wanted.&nbsp; Lacis turned out to be =
great.&nbsp; I=20
    called them and ordered the pattern from them on the 3rd and got it =
today,=20
    the 5th.&nbsp; Amazing service, unlike that of AlterYears.&nbsp; =
Every time=20
    I have ordered from them it has taked them 2 to 4 months to get my =
order to=20
    me.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; You will =
probably hear=20
    more from me when I try to make it, hopefully, none will be curse =
words.=20
    :)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
    size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 20:11:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 18:21:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca garb list
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>



--- lilinah@grin.net wrote:
> 
> -Poster: lilinah@grin.net
> 
> To reiterate again what Carol has already said
> before:
> The SCA Garb list is NO LONGER on coollist.
> 
I followed the current rules. I got a message saying I was subscribed.
I never got any messages from the list.
Caroline
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_____________________________________________________________
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E11C96W-0004Ko-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Grommets WAS Re: sca garb list
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 21:28:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Though I haven't gotten to adding them to the website, I've brass grommets
with washers for $4.00 per gross. If I can help you please let me know.

~Kyna
GranndGarb

----- Original Message -----
From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: sca garb list


>
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
> At 01:53 PM 8/4/99 -0700, you wrote: When I got my mail today, I couldn't
> figure
> out why I had so much. I started going through all my mail and a lot of
them
> were about the post I made regarding the sca list. I posted an apology for
> stirring things up.
>    However, once I got through about 15 of the 50 some-odd posts, I got to
one
> from the list manager from the sca list.  Carol, I don't know how you did
it
> but, thank you! Wow!
>              Simply--I wrote the Listmistress who handsubscribed you.
She is
> very good about keeping on top of problems once she is informed of them.
What
> one does not know of, one cannot fix.  As for me, I consider it part of
the
> ideals of the Society for Creative Anachronism to lend my aid when/as I
may.
> It is my pleasure and my duty to do so.
>    Does anyone have a source for grommets?  I was buying them by the gross
in
> small brown boxes (don't know the company name off hand, but I called them
and
> they don't do private orders) from Orchard Supply.  They either aren't
> carrying
> them anymore or just not keeping them in stock.   I have enough now but
don't
> want to be in a panic again next time I need another box. --  Michelle
>
> This was posted to h-costume &/or SCA-Garb sometime previously, I believe:
> aleed wrote:
> > Of all the grommets I've tried, the OO size from Greenberg & Hammer are
> > the best for me.  Not only are they cheaper than anywhere else ($5 per
> > gross), but they're also made of brass rather than, well, whatever Dritz
> > grommets are made of.  Harder to pound in, but much smoother & flat when
> > finished.
>     G&H's 800 number: 1 800 955 5135.  Their new catalog won't be out for
a
> couple more months (I'm now on the mailing list).
>     Description re the store:
> http://www.teasociety.com/victorian/reviews/greenberg.html   -- Little
Bird
> <tuppence@RICOCHET.NET>
>
>  Carol / Gr/ainne
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 20:33:29 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Preparing for the Pennsic War 
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

 Should we try and stimulate them?
> >    Michelle
> >----
Looks like it was successful!
Thanks
Caroline
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_____________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 21:46:26 1999
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	 Thu, 5 Aug 1999 19:56:23 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Spanish Dress
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 23:03:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Juan de Alcega's pattern book will have the pattern shapes
and suggested layout on cloth.  Do a Web search for it.  I
think it's in print, and not too much $.  Pieces of it are
everywhere -- in other books and on the Web.   Nora Waugh's
book, *Corsets and Crinolines* talks about the Spanish
farthingale a little.

Use your survey history book and art history book covering
your time period to identify nobility and painters.  Then do
Web searches for them too.  The best search engine for the
people is probably the consortium of smaller search engines
at http://www.metacrawler.com.  Try
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/  and
http://sunsite.unc.edu/wm/paint/auth/ for the painters,
location, and time period.

Elizabeth de Valois of France married Phillip II of Spain in
1560.  There's at least one good portrait, probably many, of
her dressed in the Spanish fashion.  Use her name in the
search engines.

Someone on this list found a book covering this subject
nicely.  I don't have the URL for the archives, but if
you're willing to search for the book via ILL, there is a
pretty good one available--one.

All for now......
Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn Davidson
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 1999 5:25 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: For the list....
>
>
>
> -Poster: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm inquiring if anyone knows of a source, preferrably
on-line, on
> 15-16th century Spanish clothing. I've been searching for
days with no
> luck. I would appreciate any leads.
>
> Lady Zy
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at
http://messenger.yahoo.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 22:13:55 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: revolution dress
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Tiny red pin dots and tiny yellow diamonds
>are also in the background, although the yellow has been run
>over with a blue pencil to yield green

WHAT?  You mean someone actually colored in every little tiny diamond in the
print on the entire dress?  Sheesh, and I thought I was a detail person...

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug  5 22:39:35 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: revolution dress
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 23:57:09 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Must have rally had something against yellow, that one!
Someday someone with study manicurists pattern books of the
1990's and say the same thing, "Yeeesh!" That particular
dress was remade sometime in the early 1790's.  The original
dress and the fabric is older, perhaps back to 1780 even.
Now if I had to wear the same dress that long, I might whip
out my colored pencils in desperation too, just to make it a
little new. We are talking serious desperation here.  The
dress was for a short,  stout lady--I surmise older--
judging by the soft rounded shape of it--and well, elderly
women do tend to wear out their clothes.

Reading about the fabrics in Nancy Bradfield's  *Costume in
Detail,* such was not so unusual.  Bradfield comments about
a print where the owner or dressmaker ran a squiggle with a
paintbrush between printed flowers.  You can almost see
Bradfield sneering, as she comments on how irregularly
executed it was, and wondered what the history of the
garment was that this "dreck," of all that existed,  was
saved.  On another fabric, the hand-painted design was very
tightly spaced in some areas of a dress, then wobbly and
loosely spaced in other areas on the same dress.  More of
the same.  Surprising amount of carelessness.  The urge for
self-expression without a professional capability or
something.

Hope


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 1999 11:25 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: revolution dress
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> Tiny red pin dots and tiny yellow diamonds
> >are also in the background, although the yellow has been
run
> >over with a blue pencil to yield green
>
> WHAT?  You mean someone actually colored in every little
tiny
> diamond in the
> print on the entire dress?  Sheesh, and I thought I was a
> detail person...
>
> Margo
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 00:02:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 01:10:46 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Button press forms
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Hello again list: 

My sister-in-law is still looking for her button "moulds" but it turns out 
they are forms for a covered button machine.  She's tried Greenberg & Hammer 
at my suggestion.  This is the info she's got, has anyone out there heard of 
this machine and subsequently a source for the forms to cover?

<<It is made by Wade. It appears to be called a "special arbor press." You can
buy many sized dies - i think i have 3/8 and 5/8 and 7/8. Thanks for your
help.>>


angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults
 looks handsome in three hundred pounds a year!..."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Subject: Re: H-COST: revolution dress
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/05/1999 11:25:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
 WHAT?  You mean someone actually colored in every little tiny diamond in the
 print on the entire dress?  Sheesh, and I thought I was a detail person...
  >>

Once on a stage show I designed, a pale blue polka dot just wasn't showing up 
under stage lights so I took a darker blue marker and.....that's right, 
"dotted" the whole dress. Also at Yale [I was visiting] I made, at the 
designer's request, a brown herringbone man's 3 pc suit a brown with dark 
brown stripes 3 piece suit. Ahhhhh...the magic marker....
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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: revolution dress
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

"Pencil blue" was not done at home, folks.  This was added after the basic 
block printing (or very rarely, copperplate engraving, was done.)  The only 
way to get green was to do indigo blue over yellow, and the technology to 
block print with indigo did not exist.  Blue prints were possible by painting 
a resist over everything one did not want blue, and then dying in indigo, but 
this obviously was not practical if only small bits of blue (or green) were 
wanted.  A development in the use of indigo did allow it to be brushed (or 
"penciled") on, but the work had to be done very quickly.  Therefore, you 
often see pretty sloppy bits of green or blue on these early prints.
If you want to know more, read up on indigo and other vat dyes.  It's too 
complicated for me to go into here.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 05:53:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:04:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: revolution dress
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

<< yellow has been run over with a blue pencil to yield green >>

When the term "pencil" is used it refers to addition of color by brush.

Barbara Delorey
List Manager:   18cWoman@onelist.com
DAR/Reenactors: http://hometown.aol.com/barbmvd/page/dar.htm
Battle Road Clothing:   http://www.ziplink.net/~mrkmcc/delory.htm
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 09:07:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 10:17:38 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Flamenco Costumes source
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

If anyone wants to splash out I found a great Flamenco shop in Spain the
other day

Lunares y Volantes, Trajes de Flamencas, Campero y Complementos.

Avda Conde San Insidro, 9 Telefono 47 42 13 Fuengirola, Spain

Also in Serville. No address sorry. No email or web page either sorry again
!

Will fit to you and prices start from 50 pounds (UK) , do haggle they often
come down.

Also great combs etc etc

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 09:43:40 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: revolution dress
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 10:21:26 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

This particular print was copperplate, I believe, not block
printing, as evidenced by the fineness of the lines and most
importantly the pin-prick size dots in the background of the
pattern.  Bradfield says the selvedge indicated English
domestic goods.

Hope



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 1999 6:58 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: revolution dress
>
>
>
> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
>
> "Pencil blue" was not done at home, folks.  This was added
> after the basic
> block printing (or very rarely, copperplate engraving, was
> done.)  The only
> way to get green was to do indigo blue over yellow, and
the
> technology to
> block print with indigo did not exist.  Blue prints were
> possible by painting
> a resist over everything one did not want blue, and then
> dying in indigo, but
> this obviously was not practical if only small bits of
blue
> (or green) were
> wanted.  A development in the use of indigo did allow it
to
> be brushed (or
> "penciled") on, but the work had to be done very quickly.
> Therefore, you
> often see pretty sloppy bits of green or blue on these
early prints.
> If you want to know more, read up on indigo and other vat
> dyes.  It's too
> complicated for me to go into here.
> Ann Wass
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 12:47:58 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: book--off topic
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 19:56:41 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Dear Susan,

You wrote:
> This is such well-read and er, *eclectic* group,
> I hope someone can help me remember the name of
> a book. It's an historical novel I read in the
> early 60's so god knows when it was published.
> 
> I *thought* it was called "Road to Byzantium"
> but I can find no such title in the databases.
> 
> It opens with the burning of Joan of Arc in Rouen,
> when our hero was a child. When he grew up, he
> was sent by his merchant employer on business
> trips which ended up with him in the city of
> Byzantium (not Constantinople, as I recall).
> His guardian/body guard/manservant is a Turk
> who converted to Christianity during a Crusade.
> (something like that anyway)
> 
> Many marvelous contrasts are drawn between the
> unhygienic and primitive Europeans and the
> civilized (and clean) "easterners".
> 
> I don't remember any specific costume references
> (except references to silk, lots of silk) but it
> had a tremendous impact on me and helped form
> my interest in the 'mysterious east'.

I have been pondering your question for some time. The description rang a
very vague bell, but I can't for the life of me remember if I've read it or
if it sounds like a book I read which had some similar storyline. I
remember a novel about a westerner during the crusades (12-13th c) who
travelled east and was educated as a doctor in Arabia or Persia or
something. The thing is: I've been reading historical novels (especially
about the middle ages, of course) for so long now (ca 40 years) that I
can't remember plots clearly anymore. A lot of them were pretty much alike,
especially the not so good ones ;-).

I'm afraid I can't help you,

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 13:40:16 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: book--off topic
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 14:58:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Henk,

Tell us your favorites, please. Any appropriate to read to a
10-year-old who likes a good adventure story? (We sneak in
history and culture under the guise of seamanship,
horsemanship, and warfare here.)

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Henk 't Jong
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 1999 1:57 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: book--off topic
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
> Henk & Pauline 't Jong
> tScapreel
> Medieval Advisors
> Dordrecht, Netherlands
>
> Dear Susan,
>
> You wrote:
> > This is such well-read and er, *eclectic* group,
> > I hope someone can help me remember the name of
> > a book. It's an historical novel I read in the
> > early 60's so god knows when it was published.
> >
> > I *thought* it was called "Road to Byzantium"
> > but I can find no such title in the databases.
> >
> > It opens with the burning of Joan of Arc in Rouen,
> > when our hero was a child. When he grew up, he
> > was sent by his merchant employer on business
> > trips which ended up with him in the city of
> > Byzantium (not Constantinople, as I recall).
> > His guardian/body guard/manservant is a Turk
> > who converted to Christianity during a Crusade.
> > (something like that anyway)
> >
> > Many marvelous contrasts are drawn between the
> > unhygienic and primitive Europeans and the
> > civilized (and clean) "easterners".
> >
> > I don't remember any specific costume references
> > (except references to silk, lots of silk) but it
> > had a tremendous impact on me and helped form
> > my interest in the 'mysterious east'.
>
> I have been pondering your question for some time. The
> description rang a
> very vague bell, but I can't for the life of me remember
if
> I've read it or
> if it sounds like a book I read which had some similar
storyline. I
> remember a novel about a westerner during the crusades
(12-13th c) who
> travelled east and was educated as a doctor in Arabia or
Persia or
> something. The thing is: I've been reading historical
novels
> (especially
> about the middle ages, of course) for so long now (ca 40
years) that I
> can't remember plots clearly anymore. A lot of them were
> pretty much alike,
> especially the not so good ones ;-).
>
> I'm afraid I can't help you,
>
> Henk
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 14:27:09 1999
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Message-ID: <000101bee042$239e68c0$263faccf@costume>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: New LHJ added
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 15:30:17 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Many thanks to everyone who helped me with the keywords for feathers.  We
now have another issue of Ladies Home Journal, April 1894, complete with all
its fashion related articles online.  You may find it at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/LHJ/April_1894/Magazine.htm

The articles this issue are:
***The Art of Dressing for Visiting (this is a really interesting article)
***The Use and Care of Feathers
***Black and White Costumes
***The Indispensable Apron (includes sections for different ladies'
occupations and descriptions of the aprons)
***Hints on Home Dressmaking
***The Small Belongings of Dress

For those of you who enter our website through our Online Library,
http://www.costumegallery.com/research.htm I have made a book link for each
of our Vintage Publications.  I hope this makes it easier to navigate.

Thanks again for your help!

Later... Penny
The Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

I cannot get to this address.  I keep getting a 404 error.  Anyone else
having problems?

>Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of the
>blackwork on the chemise collar.
> http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg
>

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <014901bee04f$454d88e0$1546f7a5@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>



>
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
>
> I cannot get to this address.  I keep getting a 404 error.  Anyone else
> having problems?

My husband was messing with the server and lost most of both our websites.
He says the site will be up by close of business on Monday, but that's
assuming he doesn't have much else to work on.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 18:07:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 16:14:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: book--off topic
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


There's a usenet group on children's books where they answer this kind
of question frequently-think it's rec.arts.books.childrens
Carol
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 18:48:44 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 17:01:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Megan McHugh <mchug@mindspring.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 06, 1999 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: corrected web address for blackwork



I got it a few days ago when she first posted it.  It looked pretty.
    Now, I tried it again since you said you were having problems and I got
the 404 error message too.
  Michelle

>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
>
>I cannot get to this address.  I keep getting a 404 error.  Anyone else
>having problems?
>
>>Sorry, that address I sent earlier was wrong.  Here's that close up of the
>>blackwork on the chemise collar.
>> http://martin.dc.usweb.com/dree/album/images/p0000333a.jpg
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 22:56:26 1999
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From: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 99 23:57:25 
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-Poster: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>

On Tue, 3 Aug 1999 , Michelle wrote:

>I subscribed to that list about two weeks ago too.  I still have yet to
>receive anything.  I guess that there isn't anyone actively posting to the
>list.  Should we try and stimulate them?
>    Michelle
````````````````````````
Ladies,

I'm on that list, and that's not the problem.  Unfortunately, I've no idea what is.  You may want to try 
re-subscribing.

Yours,
	Arianne

Mother of a 9 pound, 1 ounce baby boy born this past monday at 3:12 in the morning, less than two and a 
half hours after my water broke.  No drugs -- there wasn't time.  Boy, do I have a deeper respect for our 
fore-mothers!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug  6 23:29:17 1999
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To: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        <H-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:     Folkwear Patterns
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

Anyone know if the Folkwear Gaza dress is period? What about the kamiz and
churidar pants in their "Jewels of India" pattern?  If not, any takers on
around when these styles became fashionable? Just trying to think of cooler
types of clothing for Pennsic.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 00:21:41 1999
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Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 00:35:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: kilt documentation?
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


An upcomming highland/celtic-themed event has an arts and sciences
competition asking that we make and model a period kilt.  It occured to me
that most of what I know about kilts is "common knowledge,"  such as the
"whole nine yards" story, which may be true, completely false, or true but
much more recent than we think.  I was hoping some of the all-knowing
members of this list might have some sources on the early history of kilt
dimensions, wrapping, whatever that they might share with me.  In this
case, "period" is defined as 600-1600, give or take a bit.  My personal
preference would be toward the earlier end of the spectrum, but any and
all help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 03:18:33 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>An upcomming highland/celtic-themed event has an arts and sciences
>competition asking that we make and model a period kilt.  It occured to me
>that most of what I know about kilts is "common knowledge,"  such as the
>"whole nine yards" story, which may be true, completely false, or true but
>much more recent than we think.  I was hoping some of the all-knowing
>members of this list might have some sources on the early history of kilt
>dimensions, wrapping, whatever that they might share with me.  In this
>case, "period" is defined as 600-1600, give or take a bit.  My personal
>preference would be toward the earlier end of the spectrum, but any and
>all help would be greatly appreciated.

Can't help with the kilt, but a linguist, whose name i've forgotten, says
that the expression "the whole nine yards" didn't appear in English until
the 1960's - yes, *19*60's. He has traced it to the use of cement mixers in
those days. They're a different size now, but then there were mixers that
held 9 cubic yards of cement and it was an unusual job where they had to
dump "the whole nine yards."

I might be able to retrieve the linguist's name, if inquiring minds want to
know...

Sorry i can't help with the kilt.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 04:10:12 1999
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Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 01:25:12 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com, SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: Re: H-COST: Folkwear Patterns
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
>
>Anyone know if the Folkwear Gaza dress is period? What about the kamiz and
>churidar pants in their "Jewels of India" pattern?  If not, any takers on
>around when these styles became fashionable? Just trying to think of cooler
>types of clothing for Pennsic.

The Gaza dress is pretty much period, although perhaps not the embroidery...

As for the "Jewels of India" package, as far as i can tell, the churidar
pants are not period. The kamiz is almost-period (although perhaps not in
India).

For pants, you could try the Sarouelles pattern. Besides non-period
pseudo-Indian pants, it has poofy Turkish pants and the more common, more
period straight legged pants - i'm not sure if the way the gusset is set in
the straight pants is quite period, but they're close.

The Syrian dress is also period.

The Egyptian shirt is pretty close to period, but without the pockets. I
made it ankle length of burgundy charmeuse silk. The slightly shaped yoke
is similar to those of Persia after the Mongol invasian, which is very much
in period.

I have just started a website, and have a page of web links and an
annotated bibliography of book in my personal librarys on Middle Eastern
costume. The site is only a couple days old and very much under
construction.

http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/index.html
Bayt Anahita

There may be some information of help to people there.

Lilinah,
known in the SCA as
Anahita bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 10:06:08 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Folkwear Patterns
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 10:24:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mchug@mindspring.com>

Thank you.  I will try your web site now.


>The Gaza dress is pretty much period, although perhaps not the
embroidery...
>
>As for the "Jewels of India" package, as far as i can tell, the churidar
>pants are not period. The kamiz is almost-period (although perhaps not in
>India).
>
>For pants, you could try the Sarouelles pattern. Besides non-period
>pseudo-Indian pants, it has poofy Turkish pants and the more common, more
>period straight legged pants - i'm not sure if the way the gusset is set in
>the straight pants is quite period, but they're close.
>
>The Syrian dress is also period.
>
>The Egyptian shirt is pretty close to period, but without the pockets. I
>made it ankle length of burgundy charmeuse silk. The slightly shaped yoke
>is similar to those of Persia after the Mongol invasian, which is very much
>in period.
>
>I have just started a website, and have a page of web links and an
>annotated bibliography of book in my personal librarys on Middle Eastern
>costume. The site is only a couple days old and very much under
>construction.
>
>http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/index.html
>Bayt Anahita
>
>There may be some information of help to people there.
>
>Lilinah,
>known in the SCA as
>Anahita bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 10:11:54 1999
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Subject: H-COST: The Kilt
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

It never ceases to amaze me that advantage is not taken of the search 
capabilities on the Internet.

Almost everything you want to know is out there, I found this in less than 
five minutes:
"Wearing the Great Kilt (This kilt is also known as the great plaid or belted 
plaid, the breacan feile, the feileadh mhor or philamore)"

        http://www.mactravel.com/tweb/greatkilt/index.htm

Barbara Delorey
List Manager:   18cWoman@onelist.com
DAR/Reenactors: http://hometown.aol.com/barbmvd/page/dar.htm
Battle Road Clothing:   http://www.ziplink.net/~mrkmcc/delory.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 10:11:56 1999
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@mc.net>

> G&H's 800 number: 1 800 955 5135.  Their new catalog won't be out for a
> couple more months (I'm now on the mailing list).

JFYI:  It's out now.  

Heather
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 11:00:47 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Picture Request
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 99 12:13:27 -0000
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From: <mkings@earthlink.net>
To: "VICTORIA 19th-Century British Culture & Society" <VICTORIA@LISTSERV.INDIANA.EDU>,
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Dear Collective Wisdom - Help!

Am looking for a picture. It needs to be American artist, showing an 
interior and people with focus on adults not children. It would be super 
to find one that has great interior detail (preferably parlor) and 
perhaps starts to show the transition where inventions and technology 
have started to effect the interior of the home.

Have been searching the web all morning and must not be hitting the right 
sites. I have found "Friendly Call" by William Merritt Chase ( done 
before 1895) and The Brown Family by Eastman Johnson (done in1869). I 
think what I am looking for would be in the time period between these two.

This is for the cover for The Washington Antiques Show catalogue (Jan 
2000) whose theme is 'Behind Closed Doors: Victorian Secrets' -- so it 
needs to be in a collection that I can get to ! for rights to use it.

Any and all help greatly received!  Many thanks, Margo King
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 11:26:06 1999
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Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 12:35:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Crochted yokes on Amazon auction site
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-Poster: ArcadiaCB@aol.com

Apologies if you get this post several times, as I've posted to various 
lists. I remember a few months back that someone (can't remember on which 
list) was looking for the crocheted yokes to make Victorian/Edwardian style 
lingerie and I came across an auction of 3 of them on the Amazon auction 
site.  Just thought I'd pass along the info. <A 
HREF="http://auctions.amazon.com/exec/varzea/ts/auction-glance/Y02X1251687X593
9981/qid=934043139/sr=1-7/002-5243592-3246810">Amazon.com Auctions: 
3Victorian Crocheted Yokes for Ladies Lingerie</A> 
  Charlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 11:36:36 1999
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Kilt
In-Reply-To: <40c4e323.24dd85e6@aol.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

True, I didn't search the internet, but I was hoping more for books or
bibliographies...books *with* bibliographies, preferably...guess I'm just
an old-fashioned girl.
Emma

On Sat, 7 Aug 1999 BarbMVD@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com
> 
> It never ceases to amaze me that advantage is not taken of the search 
> capabilities on the Internet.
> 
> Almost everything you want to know is out there, I found this in less than 
> five minutes:
> "Wearing the Great Kilt (This kilt is also known as the great plaid or belted 
> plaid, the breacan feile, the feileadh mhor or philamore)"
> 
>         http://www.mactravel.com/tweb/greatkilt/index.htm
> 
> Barbara Delorey
> List Manager:   18cWoman@onelist.com
> DAR/Reenactors: http://hometown.aol.com/barbmvd/page/dar.htm
> Battle Road Clothing:   http://www.ziplink.net/~mrkmcc/delory.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 13:01:13 1999
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Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 14:10:27 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Kilt info sources
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Ok, as for the kilt.  Now you should be aware that most feel that the kilt 
was not worn by the Scots until AFTER 1600 or so.  Earlier than that, the 
Celtic peoples (Irish, Scots, etc) dressed fairly alike.  Keep that in mind.  
A good (and one of the only) reference books you'll find to that end is "Old 
Irish and Highland Dress, and that of the Isle of Mann" by H.F. McClintock. 
It is out of print and very very hard to find though.

Below then are sites that dealt specifically with the kilt and it's history 
in Scotland. Various sites differ in their beliefs and subsequently their 
information, so be cautious.  The poster who encouraged you to make better 
use of the internet should also have cautioned you that misinformation 
abounds.  The most well-meaning of people state their own opinion as fact.  
However, with prudent and judicious interpretation of information, you will 
usually be able to determine what is accurate and what is not.

>   History of the Scottish Kilt 
>   http://www.taisbean.com/celticnet/kilthistory.html
>
>   Arisaid - Scottish women's clothing (listed last week?) 
>   http://www.taisbean.com/celticnet/kilthistory.html
>
>   Eachna's 5th Century Irish-Celtic Re-Enactments Page 
>   http://www.hatrack.net/gwen/celtic/index.html 
>       (lots of other links) 
>
>    http://www.reconstructinghistory.com

Best of luck

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Picture Request
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 15:41:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

If you search for antique sewing machines, one of the sites
has some great color advertisements from the mid-late 1800's
showing their machines in the center of 19th century social
life.  Stilted, because its and advertisement, but they are
really attractive and fun.  Sorry I didn't save the URL, but
found them once in the course of hunting for old parts.
Hope



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of mkings@earthlink.net
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 1999 8:13 AM
> To: VICTORIA 19th-Century British Culture & Society; H-Net
Gilded Age
> and Progressive Era List; Manner Born; DC Costume List;
> Historic Costume
> Subject: H-COST: Picture Request
>
>
>
> -Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>
>
> Dear Collective Wisdom - Help!
>
> Am looking for a picture. It needs to be American artist,
showing an
> interior and people with focus on adults not children. It
> would be super
> to find one that has great interior detail (preferably
parlor) and
> perhaps starts to show the transition where inventions and
technology
> have started to effect the interior of the home.
>
> Have been searching the web all morning and must not be
> hitting the right
> sites. I have found "Friendly Call" by William Merritt
Chase ( done
> before 1895) and The Brown Family by Eastman Johnson (done
in1869). I
> think what I am looking for would be in the time period
> between these two.
>
> This is for the cover for The Washington Antiques Show
catalogue (Jan
> 2000) whose theme is 'Behind Closed Doors: Victorian
Secrets'
> -- so it
> needs to be in a collection that I can get to ! for rights
to use it.
>
> Any and all help greatly received!  Many thanks, Margo
King
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 15:58:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 13:42:53 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS: H-COST: Folkwear Patterns NOW: Netiquette -- off-topic
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

      Please, when responding to someone's post, use only the barest amt.
of their msg. essential to make it clear to what you are referring in your
own post--the original post-er's name and email address and often a couple
of lines from his/her post.  Please do not just repost the whole of the
original post, having added: Thank you.  or some other one line comment.
Thank you for your time...Carol, now returning to historical costuming...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 15:59:04 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>,
        <Costumers@onelist.com>
References: <000101bedf79$d6a49620$c2f4accf@costume>
Subject: H-COST: Zoot Suit pattern?? 1940's patterns
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 16:58:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Hello everyone,

Anyone know of a company that makes/carries patterns for the basic layout of
a "Zoot Suit"?  I like to have at least a mock up to start with when doing
something historical like this....I tear it apart and basically start from
scratch anyway...but it's like my security blanket ;)

Thanks in advance!

~Kyna
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://www.GranndGarb.com
ICQ#12859312

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 16:03:14 1999
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Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 14:15:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Zoot Suit pattern?? 1940's patterns
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

There was a thread about this on the list some months ago. I think it
was determined that the pattern never existed-people did what the
original tailors did and altered a man's suit pattern for the period. I
can try to get information on that pattern if you like, but perhaps a
zoot suit pattern has been released in the interim. If not, someone
should do it.
Carol
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 16:54:16 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Try Elisabeth Garrett's book, At Home.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 20:34:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt info sources
Cc: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:10 PM 8/7/99 EDT, MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>Ok, as for the kilt.  Now you should be aware that most feel that the kilt 
>was not worn by the Scots until AFTER 1600 or so.  Earlier than that, the 
>Celtic peoples (Irish, Scots, etc) dressed fairly alike.  Keep that in mind.  
>A good (and one of the only) reference books you'll find to that end is "Old 
>Irish and Highland Dress, and that of the Isle of Mann" by H.F. McClintock. 
>It is out of print and very very hard to find though.
[snip]

Another book you might try is "The Costume of Scotland" by John Telfer
Dunbar, 1981; ISBN 0 7134 2534 2, published by B.T. Batsford Ltd. I would
also suggest trying a search on books by John Telfer Dunbar. His "History of
Highland Dress" is a standard work of reference in this area.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug  7 20:34:50 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:10 PM 8/7/99 EDT, MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>Ok, as for the kilt.  Now you should be aware that most feel that the kilt 
>was not worn by the Scots until AFTER 1600 or so.  Earlier than that, the 
>Celtic peoples (Irish, Scots, etc) dressed fairly alike.  Keep that in mind.  
>A good (and one of the only) reference books you'll find to that end is "Old 
>Irish and Highland Dress, and that of the Isle of Mann" by H.F. McClintock. 
>It is out of print and very very hard to find though.
[snip]

Another book you might try is "The Costume of Scotland" by John Telfer
Dunbar, 1981; ISBN 0 7134 2534 2, published by B.T. Batsford Ltd. I would
also suggest trying a search on books by John Telfer Dunbar. His "History of
Highland Dress" is a standard work of reference in this area.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

 _________________________________________________________________
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: pre=washing
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 07:47:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

Is satin machine-washable?  
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 06:47:52 1999
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 07:59:53 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: H-COST: Event
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

The Historical Society of Frederick Maryland invites you to the
<bold><italic>Treasured Heirloom Event</italic></bold> on October 16. 
Heirloom experts will be on hand to identify and/or discuss treasures
with their owners.  The society  will accept a $5 per item
consideration.

The celebration will begin on the evening of October 15 with a special
presentation in Frederick's City Hall, followed by a reception at the
Tyler-Spite House .  Call 301-663-1188 for more information. Visit the
Historical Society's web site at www.fwp.net/hsfc 





Cordially,


Sue Shatto


Sue@VictorianMillinery.com

http://www.VictorianMillinery.com


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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

andrea.gideon@erols.com writes: << Is satin machine-washable?   >>

Satin is a weave, what is the fabric content?
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> -Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com
> 
> andrea.gideon@erols.com writes: << Is satin machine-washable?   >>
> 
> Satin is a weave, what is the fabric content?

I think it's 100%polyester
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 09:48:56 1999
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Satin is both a weave and a fabric. 18th century satin was silk and was dry 
cleaned.


Sally Queen
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 10:07:16 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/08/1999 11:00:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
SAQUEEN@aol.com writes:

<< Satin is both a weave and a fabric. 18th century satin was silk and was 
dry 
 cleaned. >>

And there weren't many dry cleaning machines in the 18th century either!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 10:53:05 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Sally Queen <SAQUEEN@aol.com> wrote:
>
>Satin is both a weave and a fabric. 18th century satin was silk and was dry
>cleaned.

They had dry-cleaners back then? But seriously, how did they "dry clean"
satin in those days, since i know they weren't using the same nasty
chemicals we use today (of course, in various aspects of life they used
other nasty chemicals).

Does anyone know:
Could silk satin be hand washed in cold water?

How did the Chinese clean their silks? I know the Japanese washed theirs in
cool water streams.

Also, i know that there was (and i guess may still be) wool satin. I
suppose one could hand wash it in cold water with a gentle soap...

I sure wouldn't wash acetate satin, if that's still made.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 10:55:42 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Hi,

I've heard that some folks in the past made stockings of sprang and i'd
like to try to make some...

I have Peter Collingwood's book on Sprang, from which i can learn
technique, in which he mentions the socks, but there are no pictures or
patterns.

Does anyone know where i can find a pattern? Or more information about
historic sprang stockings?

Thanks,

Anahita Gaouri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi


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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
>> andrea.gideon@erols.com writes: << Is satin machine-washable?   >>
>>
>> Satin is a weave, what is the fabric content?
>
>I think it's 100%polyester

My experience has been that polyester is generally machine washable.

But are you sure it's polyester? Because there are many other artificial
and synthetic fibers and some do not machine wash well.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 11:11:53 1999
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>


On Sun, 8 Aug 1999 11:16:02 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

>
>And there weren't many dry cleaning machines in the 18th century 
>either!


Au contraire, mon cher!  <G>  They were called servants.  Good ole'
Hannah Glass in her Servant's Directory, Improved; or, House-Keepers
Companion says:


"To clean all sorts of Plain Silks.  First take out the spots [she
includes those directions elsewhere in the directory]; then take to a
suit of cloths a peck of bran; lay it in a large dish or pan before the
fire, turning it often with your hands till it is thoroughly dry; then
lay your cloths on a table, and whilst the bran is hot, with your hand
rub the silk very well with it, till you think it is clean; then shake
them, and with a clean, soft, dry cloth, rub all the bran off well; fold
them smooth, and lay them by.


"To clean Sattins and Damasks.  To a suit of cloths, take a three-penny
loaf of the day before's baking; take out the crumb, rubbing it all very
fine; mix with it a quarter of an ounce of powder-blue, and rub it as the
plain silks above."


Then you have to refer further into the Directory to find out the best
way to clean the mess you just left on the floor!  <G>


Kay
kayherb@juno.com

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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

Poly is usually washable.  To be safe and sure of any textile, always wash a 
small sample and check for shrinkage and appearance.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/08/1999 12:23:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kayherb@juno.com writes:

<< 
 "To clean all sorts of Plain Silks.  First take out the spots [she
 includes those directions elsewhere in the directory]; then take to a
 suit of cloths a peck of bran; lay it in a large dish or pan before the
 fire, turning it often with your hands till it is thoroughly dry; then
 lay your cloths on a table, and whilst the bran is hot, with your hand
 rub the silk very well with it, till you think it is clean; then shake
 them, and with a clean, soft, dry cloth, rub all the bran off well; fold
 them smooth, and lay them by.
 
 
 "To clean Sattins and Damasks.  To a suit of cloths, take a three-penny
 loaf of the day before's baking; take out the crumb, rubbing it all very
 fine; mix with it a quarter of an ounce of powder-blue, and rub it as the
 plain silks above.">>

Totally interesting!
Basically they soaked up oils with bread crumbs & hot bran...it's not just 
for breakfast anymore!
I thought all they did with silk was to air out the dress wrong side out.

And yes there was wool satin. There is also cotton satin but I don't know if 
that's common in the 18th century.
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Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 13:09:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: pre=washing
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/08/1999 12:27:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
BarbMVD@aol.com writes:

<< Poly is usually washable.  To be safe and sure of any textile, always wash 
a 
 small sample and check for shrinkage and appearance.
  >>
True.
The problem with satin of any fiber is wrinkles really show up. Don't wash it 
if you don't have a fantastic iron. If it's acetate, you'll never get the 
wrinkles out. If you just want to pre-strink the fabric, try just steaming it 
before making it up.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 12:33:38 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: washing satin
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Is satin machine-washable? >>

Depends upon what the fiber is; satin is a weave structure.

Silk satin *is* washable, but washing may change the finish and hand. Ditto
for cotton satin. Wool satin is still made, but difficult to find, and
should you be so lucky to find some, I would treat it very gently.

Synthetics are a Pandora's box; check labels and test.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 12:54:48 1999
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 14:05:36 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: H-COST: Cleaning silk with bran
References: <c8ad72fe.24def932@aol.com> <19990714.115941.5231.8.kayherb@juno.com>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

That's a really interesting passage -- what was the date?  I think I'll
turn it into a .sig quote.

Thanks
cv

"Kathryn L. Herb" wrote:
> Au contraire, mon cher!  <G>  They were called servants.  Good ole'
> Hannah Glass in her Servant's Directory, Improved; or, House-Keepers
> Companion says:

--
I'm collecting a database & library of 3rd party articles about the SCA
for everyone's reference.  Email sca-clippings@thibault.org for details.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 13:10:00 1999
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From: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
To: "H-Cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 14:19:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>

Hi All,

I find myself in need of something to use to coat the ends of steel corset
bones that I will be cutting to length.  I don't have time to order the Real
McCoy tipping fluid from one of the catalog sources; what would you folks
suggest I use instead?  In a perfect world, it would stand up to a hot
dryer, but what's really important is that it prevent the bones from
rusting, and that it be commonly available in some kind of retail store, so
I can get my hands on it by tomorrow evening at the latest.  The corset it's
going into can be dry-clean-only if necessary.  Whatever I use will be
getting wet.  Following is a brief list of things I have considered; any
input would be vastly appreciated.

1.  Fingernail polish
2.  Metal epoxy
3.  Kitchen appliance or bathtub enamel touch-up paint
4.  Rust-oleum (not recommended by the guy at Home Depot; he thought it
would be bad in the dryer.  He also thought I was COMPLETELY insane.  Go
figure.
5.  Some kind of paint designed to be used on metal in a craft context
6.  The Home Depot guy recommended a type of spray paint that is made for
high-heat applications, like grills, but I'd much rather dip or brush than
spray.

Thanks in advance,

Asia

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 13:45:40 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw:      OT but Important
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 11:54:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Gwenllyan verch Morgan <Gwenllyan@AOL.COM>
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Date: Sunday, August 08, 1999 10:21 AM
Subject: OT but Important


>I almost NEVER pass on virus alerts and other stuff, but this time I am,
>because I did see a story on this on the local news and in the paper
>recently.
>______________________________________________
>The following was received today and all information has been verified.
>Please feel free to pass this information along to friends and colleagues.
>---------------------------------------
>SPECIAL ALERT
>DO NOT EVER DIAL AREA CODE 809.
>SCAM: Don't respond to emails, phone calls or pages which tell you to call
an
>"809" phone number.
>This is a very important issue of Internet ScamBusters because it alerts
>you to a scam that is spreading extremely quickly, can easily cost  you
>$100 or more and it is difficult to avoid unless you are aware of it.
>We'd like to thank Paul Bruemmer and Brian Stains for bringing this scam
>to our attention. This scam has also been identified by the National
>Fraud Information Center and is costing victims a lot of money. There
>are lots of different permutations of this scam, but here is how it
>works.  Permutation #1: Internet Based Phone Scam via e-mail. You
>receive an email, typically with a subject line of "ALERT" or "Unpaid
>Account." The message, which is being scammed across the net, says: I am
>writing to give you a final 24 hours to settle your outstanding account.
>If I have not received the settlement in full, I will commence legal
>proceedings without further delay. If you would like to discuss  this
>matter to avoid court Acton, call Mike Murray at Global Communications
>at 1-809-496-2700.
>Permutation #2: Phone or pager scam: You receive a message on your
>answering machine or your pager which asks you to call a number
>beginning  with area code 809. The reason you're asked to call varies:
>It can be to receive information about a family member who has been ill,
>to tell you someone has been arrested, died, or to let you know you have
>won a wonderful  prize, etc. In each case, you're told to call the 809
>number right away. Since there are so many new area codes these days,
>people unknowingly return  these calls. If you call from the US, you
>will apparently be charged $25 per  minute! Sometimes the person who
>answers the phone will speak broken English  and pretend not to
>understand you. Other times, you'll just get a long recorded message.
>The point is, they will try to keep you on the phone as  long as
>possible to increase the charges. Unfortunately, when you get your phone
>bill, you'll often be charged  more than $100.00.
>Here's why it works: The 809 area code is located in the British Virgin
>Islands, the Bahamas. The 809 area code can be used as a "pay-per-call"
>number similar to 900 numbers in the US. Since 809 is not in the US, it
>is  not covered by US regulations of 900 numbers which require that you
>be notified and warned of charges and rates involved when you call a
>"pay-per-call" number. There is also no requirement that the company
>provide  a time period during which you may terminate the call without
>being charged  Further, whereas many US phones have 900 call blocking
>(to avoid these kinds of charges), 900 number blocking will prevent
>calls to the 809 area  code. We recommend that no matter how you get the
>message, if you are asked to call a number with an 809 area code that
>you don't recognize investigate further and/or disregard the message. Be
>"very" wary of email  or calls asking you to call an 809 area code
>number. It is important to prevent becoming a victim of this scam, since
>trying to fight the charges afterwards can become a real nightmare.
>That's because you did actually make the call. If you complain, both
>your local phone  company and your long distance carrier will not want
>to get involved and will most likely tell you that they are simply
>providing the billing for the foreign company. L You'll end up dealing
>with a foreign company that argues that has done nothing wrong.  Please
>forward this entire issue of Internet ScamBusters to your friends,
>family and colleagues to help them become aware of this scam so they
>don't get ripped off.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 14:15:06 1999
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Message-ID: <8e57e010.24df33ae@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 15:25:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: pre=washing and satin weave
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 8/8/99 1:07:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AlbertCat@aol.com 
writes:

<< Basically they soaked up oils with bread crumbs & hot bran...it's not just 
 for breakfast anymore!
 I thought all they did with silk was to air out the dress wrong side out.
  >>

Sewing room tip for "dry cleaning". With oily spots, put unscented baby 
powder over the oily spot. After powder absorbs the oil, brush off lightly. 
Modern adaption to the 18th century receipt.

18th century wool fullers were also professional dry cleaners. 

Linda Baumgarten's article in the latest issue of _Dress_ , Journal of The 
Costume Society of America, talks about "turning" garments for continued use. 
The practice of using the back side to get continued wear. Great article -- a 
must read.

Also, damasks technically are satin weave as they use the long floating warp 
to achieve the shiny design. Wool, silk, and linen damasks were very common. 
Cotton satins were called were in a large category called satinet 
(Montgomery, page 342 for more information). Montgomery sites several other 
period names for cotton satins, like "sattinett checks", "cross barred", and 
"rich striped satenet".
 

Sally Queen
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociate.com
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 19:51:33 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Sun, 8 Aug 1999 14:19:05 -0400, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I find myself in need of something to use to coat the ends of steel corset
>bones that I will be cutting to length.  I don't have time to order the Real
>McCoy tipping fluid from one of the catalog sources; what would you folks
>suggest I use instead?  In a perfect world, it would stand up to a hot
>dryer, but what's really important is that it prevent the bones from
>rusting, and that it be commonly available in some kind of retail store, so
>I can get my hands on it by tomorrow evening at the latest.  The corset it's
>going into can be dry-clean-only if necessary.  Whatever I use will be
>getting wet. 

Tool Dip (I think this is the the brand name, but it may only be a
product description). A sort of soft polymer 'paint'.

It's available at most large hardware stores. You'll have to ask about
heat-resistance, but it's intended to be used to re-coat the handles
of tools and prevent rust while making them safer to use. It may even
be the same fluid, with a different target market.

It costs about 12-20 dollars for a jar. it tends to come in primary
colors only, not white. I've seen yellow and red, and heard of blue.

 A freind has been using it for years on her custom-cut boning.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 17:51:15 1999
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 15:56:13 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Satin washability
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

You'll need to wash a swatch to be sure.  You can assume that you will get
SOME texture change in all but the best-quality of polyester satins.  If
some softening, or a hammered-satin look, is acceptable, then you may be
fine.  

Acetate satin tends to come out of the wash looking like a sad little
varnished Kleenex.  This is not universal, but it's highly likely.  

If you are dealing with a garment, rather than with yardage that can be
sample-tested, try wetting an inner seam or hem area (carefully, to avoid
waterspotting on the outside!) and working it between your hands.  If you
see any texture breakdown, or if the sheen changes after drying, you're out
of luck.

Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 18:37:34 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: pre=washing
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com


In a message dated 8/8/99 12:23:45 PM, kayherb@juno.com writes:

<< "To clean all sorts of Plain Silks.  First take out the spots [she
includes those directions elsewhere in the directory]; then take to a
suit of cloths a peck of bran; lay it in a large dish or pan before the
fire, turning it often with your hands till it is thoroughly dry; then
lay your cloths on a table, and whilst the bran is hot, with your hand
rub the silk very well with it, till you think it is clean; then shake
them, and with a clean, soft, dry cloth, rub all the bran off well; fold
them smooth, and lay them by. >>

This sounds extraordinarily like some SCA fighters I know. Their slogan is: 
If it's hot, it must be clean. This is in reference to nasty, smelly 
gambesons, fighting clothes, etc.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 19:56:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

I use nail polish all the time -- emergency or not.
About three coats,  allowing time to dry in between.
I use up my old, hideous colors of polish that way!

Deb Baddorf

Deb Baddorf    http://www.inil.com/users/baddorf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 20:33:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Cleaning silk with bran
Message-ID: <19990714.133900.5231.7.kayherb@juno.com>
References: <c8ad72fe.24def932@aol.com> <19990714.115941.5231.8.kayherb@juno.com>
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>


>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>That's a really interesting passage -- what was the date?  I think 
>I'll
>turn it into a .sig quote.


Can't resist giving you the whole title and publication information. 
(Just looove those long titles! <G>)


The Servant's Directory, Improved, or House-Keepers Companion.  Wherein
the Duties of the Chamber-Maid, Nursery-Maid, House-Maid, Landry-Maid,
Scullion, or Under-Cook, Are fully and distinctly Explained.  To which is
added, Cookery and Pickling Sufficient to Qualify a Person to act as
Thorough Servant In any Family.  Also, a Table to cast up Expences or
Wages by the Day, Week, Month and Year.  Likewise, a Meat Market-Book,
and many other Particulars, fit to be known by the Mistress of a Family. 
The Fourth Edition.  By H. Glass, Author of The Art of Cookery made Plain
and Easy.  Dublin:  Printed by J. Potts, at Swift's Head in Dame-Street. 
MDCCLXII


Kay

kayherb@juno.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug  8 22:51:10 1999
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 22:59:36 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: satin washability
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>The problem with satin of any fiber is wrinkles really show up. Don't wash
it 
>if you don't have a fantastic iron. If it's acetate, you'll never get the 
>wrinkles out. 

>You'll need to wash a swatch to be sure.  You can assume that you will get
>SOME texture change in all but the best-quality of polyester satins.  If
>some softening, or a hammered-satin look, is acceptable, then you may be
>fine.  

We've had very good luck with one particular poly satin.  It (IIRC) is
called "peau satin", and is 60" wide rather than the usual 45".  It's maybe
not as shiny as "bridal satin" (the acetate stuff) but is very elegant in
its own right, and drapes beautifully.  It also washes like a dream - no
apparent change in texture or finish.  It's generally available at
Hancock's in the bridal/formal fabric area.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 05:52:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 12:28:28 +0200
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: Re: H-COST: book--off topic
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>


>- -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>... I
>remember a novel about a westerner during the crusades (12-13th c) who
>travelled east and was educated as a doctor in Arabia or Persia or
>something. 

Noah Gordon's "The physician" has such a plot.
There the hero is from London and travels to Persia (I think, actually
Bukhara: today part of Uzbekistan, Central Asia) in his search for a good
education in medicine. 

Sorry for the off-topic post, back to lurk mode after a short hello to
everyone,

Barbara Maren
--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 06:58:15 1999
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From: "Virginia  H. Pfouts" <vhpfouts@wcnet.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Petticoat buttons
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 07:50:26 -0400
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-Poster: "Virginia  H. Pfouts" <vhpfouts@wcnet.org>

Were buttons used on American " common woman" petticoats during the War of
1812 time period? If so, of what material were they usually made? If
buttons weren't used, what were the usual fasteners? And how were they
placed? Thanks for any help here.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 10:40:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 11:49:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: historic costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        vintage costume <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: tablecloths
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-Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>


Help, I need to find a cheap source for red and white checked
tablecloths or fabric to cut into cloths asap.  Thanks.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: book--off topic
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 19:57:06 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi all,

Barbara wrote:
> 
> Noah Gordon's "The physician" has such a plot.
> There the hero is from London and travels to Persia (I think, actually
> Bukhara: today part of Uzbekistan, Central Asia) in his search for a good
> education in medicine. 

That's the one!

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 13:07:39 1999
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Message-ID: <ba4a5030.24e0753b@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 14:17:31 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: washing satin
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



If you are looking at fabric (not a finished garment!), and you are looking 
at inexpensive synthetic satin, just buy a bit and wash it and dry it, and 
see what happens. Long ago, when I knew a lot less about what I was doing 
(sometimes actually a help!) I wanted a satin gown for SCA use. I bought 
"bridal satin" or "baroque satin" or something equally generic-sounding from 
the local Joanne Fabric. I don't even know the content. Yes, I bought all I 
needed, not just a bit. Then I washed it on cold and dried it on permanent 
press.

Luckily for me, it washed very well. It didn't come out stiff and "satiny," 
though. It turned out to be very soft, with a dull glint instead of a 
patent-leather-type shine. Kind of like "antique satin" curtains. Lined, it 
worked fine for what I wanted, and I avoided all those dry-cleaning bills.

The point is -- it might wash, but it might not end up being what you want. 
If I had needed a stiff fabric, I would have been out of luck.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 13:15:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 14:25:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: tablecloths
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Most Hancock Fabrics stores carry tablecloth checks in wide width.  I don't 
remember the price, though, so I'm not sure if it's cheap enough for you.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 13:24:33 1999
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From: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 14:35:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>

Thanks for the Tool Dip suggestion!  I have seen this stuff in stores, but
was unsure how it would behave when dry.  Does anyone on the list know how
it holds up to moisture and/or heat?  My fear is that the finished corset
will accidentally get tossed in the dryer or ironed or something and I'll
wind up with great blots of rubbery goo at the ends of my casings.  Is my
unfamiliarity with this product causing my imagination to run away with me?

Another listmember wrote me personally and recommended nail polish; she said
she's used it for years to good effect.  Anyone have direct experience with
any other method I might consider?  Right now I'm leaning towards the nail
polish, preferably in some Really Fabulous color that I would probably never
wear on my nails, but if the tool dip is known to be pretty sturdy when dry,
I might go that way instead.

Thanks again for the input, and for any additional suggestions!

Asia

> From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
> Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 19:51:33 GMT
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
>
> - -Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
> On Sun, 8 Aug 1999 14:19:05 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Tool Dip (I think this is the the brand name, but it may only be a
> product description). A sort of soft polymer 'paint'.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 14:47:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 15:56:47 EDT
Subject: H-COST: pattern help
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear All,

If you can help this person, please email her directly at SAMMagain@aol.com

"Need, Need, following costume patterns for guitar performer -  bullfighter, 
pirate shirt and a short cape. "

Many thanks,
Sally Queen
Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 15:08:37 1999
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Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 16:17:26 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Hi Asia,

>I find myself in need of something to use to coat the ends of steel
>corset bones that I will be cutting to length.  I don't have time to
>order the Real McCoy tipping fluid from one of the catalog sources; what
>would you folks suggest I use instead?  

I got something called "tool dip" at our local (large) hardware store.  It
comes in lots of colours as well as white.  It came out looking a lot like
the commercial ends after it was dry.  And it's held up well.  It's not
rusted yet.  I haven't tried it under heat though.  I've used it with
relative sucess & I think that might be exactly what you're looking for.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 15:48:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 16:00:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>
To: Gaelscot@aol.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: washing satin
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-Poster: "Sara J. Davitt" <ophelia@dias.net>


AS long as you pre wash it it's fine.
though because you are abusing it slightly, by washing, it will be a
smidge duller.. I've had a Satin Duvet for 4 years, and it is still smooth
n abd lusterous.. and I machine wash it all the time.  (it's yummy fabric
to sleep with, but will slipp off onto a pile on the floor in the middle
of winter)  

Sarahj

**2Y's**UR**2Y's**UB**IC**UR**2Y's**4Me**

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 18:32:05 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tablecloths
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1999 18:46:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Try your local feed store, sometimes some of them have a "gift" or "home"
section.

Amanda

----------
> From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
> To: historic costume <h-costume@indra.com>; vintage costume
<vintage@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: tablecloths
> Date: Monday, August 09, 1999 10:49 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
> 
> 
> Help, I need to find a cheap source for red and white checked
> tablecloths or fabric to cut into cloths asap.  Thanks.
> 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I used nail polish once, but it didn't stand up to ironing.  Luckily it
only stained the lining of the boned Elizabethan bodice.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Asia Reva Poppers <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
> Date: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:35 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
> 
> Thanks for the Tool Dip suggestion!  I have seen this stuff in stores,
but
> was unsure how it would behave when dry.  Does anyone on the list know
how
> it holds up to moisture and/or heat?  My fear is that the finished corset
> will accidentally get tossed in the dryer or ironed or something and I'll
> wind up with great blots of rubbery goo at the ends of my casings.  Is my
> unfamiliarity with this product causing my imagination to run away with
me?
> 
> Another listmember wrote me personally and recommended nail polish; she
said
> she's used it for years to good effect.  Anyone have direct experience
with
> any other method I might consider?  Right now I'm leaning towards the
nail
> polish, preferably in some Really Fabulous color that I would probably
never
> wear on my nails, but if the tool dip is known to be pretty sturdy when
dry,
> I might go that way instead.
> 
> Thanks again for the input, and for any additional suggestions!
> 
> Asia
> 
> > From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
> > Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 19:51:33 GMT
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: Emergency substitute for tipping fluid?
> >
> > - -Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
> >
> > On Sun, 8 Aug 1999 14:19:05 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> > Tool Dip (I think this is the the brand name, but it may only be a
> > product description). A sort of soft polymer 'paint'.
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 20:37:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 18:46:07 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: pre=washing
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

lilinah@grin.net wrote:
> 
...
> How did the Chinese clean their silks?

They mostly didn't. Like Europeans wearing linen undergarments,
the Chinese wore plain white silk undergarments that *could*
be washed, and kept the outer garments a bit cleaner. I saw
some cheongsams from the 20's that had cotton *eyelet* basted
inside the collar. As it didn't show on the outside at all,
I assumed it was so that the eyelet could be removed and
washed.

> I know the Japanese washed theirs in cool water streams.

They're mostly *rinsed* in the streams/rivers. This is still done
by the way. A friend of mine who taught me a lot about kimonos,
roomed with a professional kimono maker when she was a student
in Japan. The lady also re-made kimonos. When they get dirty,
you take them *completely* apart, wash them carefully, rinse,
stretch to dry on special stretchers. Then you carefully examine
them for wear or damage and "turn" the damaged areas someplace
else (like turning collars) Then sew the entire thing back together,
by hand, and possibly put in a new lining as well.
  You can see why they go to great lengths to keep them clean
by wearing underkimonos and "dusters" over the top for going
out. I've gotten an awful lot of "scrap" kimonos with apparently
indelible food stains!

Just in case anyone is interested. (If anyone knows exactly
*how* they are washed, or how to get these darned stains out,
I'd like to hear about it!)

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 22:08:42 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com (h-costume)
Subject: H-COST: contact
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 99 03:17:43 GMT
Message-ID: <M.080999.231743.42@erols.com>
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

Hi,
    Would Jadran Kale please re-contact me? I've just had a big computer 
malfunction which wiped out all my message stores since July!
    -Judy Mitchell

sorry for the bandwidth, but it messed up my address-book.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 23:37:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: washing satin
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Polyester satin is washable, but will fray badly, so be careful to finish
seams.  As previously discussed, washing will change the hand and make it
much softer and duller.  Sometimes this is nice, but if that's not the
effect you want, you can retain the hand by washing the garment (or
yardage),  and not drying it at all before you iron.

 It will take forever, and you may need to use spray starch to stiffen it,
but it can work, and if you've just spilled something on a bridesmaid's
dress and the client will be picking it up in two hours, it's good to know.

Margo  

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 23:42:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 23:51:52 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Tool dip
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>Thanks for the Tool Dip suggestion!  I have seen this stuff in stores, but
>was unsure how it would behave when dry.  Does anyone on the list know how
>it holds up to moisture and/or heat?  

Moisture - should be no problem.  Heat - I don't think a dryer would do
anything, but an iron at anything above "silk" temp might.  It's basically
thick acrylic paint.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug  9 23:53:51 1999
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 9 Aug 1999, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> 
> Moisture - should be no problem.  Heat - I don't think a dryer would do
> anything, but an iron at anything above "silk" temp might.  It's basically
> thick acrylic paint.
Hmmm....does this mean you could use acrylic paint to finish bones? Would
it crack?
I have lots of acrylic paint.
I don't think I've had any trouble with the acrylics I've spilled on my 
clothes melting when I've ironed them, but that isn't big globs of it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 14:54:08 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Bustle Dress
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 16:01:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I am now working on an 1886 Delineator magazine.  I just finished one page
with a dress, you have to see and get a giggle.  The URL is
http://www.costumegallery.com/Delineator/June_1886/Ladies1.htm .  The
magazine suggests that this dress be worn to the seaside, the country,
tennis, promenade, picnic and mountain wear.  I find it funny that they
suggest to wear this costume for mountainwear or tennis.  Can you see a lady
chasing a tennis ball around in this bustle dress?  Maybe the magazine
should have stated wearing to watch a tennis game.

BTW, you do have to wait a little while for the dress image to download.
The image is large to go with the very detailed description of the dress.
This is one of those pages that is linked from a thumbnail image on the main
page.

The article also suggests that this costume could be made with
nun's-vailing.  I have not heard of this fabric.  Have any of you?

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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Subject: H-COST: Washington Antiques Show - Feedback pls.
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 99 17:36:47 -0000
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To: "H-Net Gilded Age and Progressive Era List" <H-SHGAPE@H-NET.MSU.EDU>,
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Dear Collective Wisdom: First many thanks for all your input into my queries during the last few months! It has been very helpful.......now pls. read on........

Am trying  to finalize the program for The 45th Washington Antiques Show in Washington, DC, January 6 -9, 2000. This is one of the top four shows in the country and it benefits health and education charities !

Since our show has people attend from across the country and some out of country, I wonder if it would be an imposition to ask you all to be my sounding board?? Hope not, if so just delete this message now!

The theme of this year's show is 'Behind Closed Doors: Victorian Secrets'.  We are focusing on trying to dispell the myth that the Victorian era is just over-blown, -done, -dark, and just filled with dark ugly furniture! I am going to put info in this note rather than attached in case attachments are difficult for people to open.  Here are our catalogue articles - we produce a museum quality book!              Catalogue Articles 

 Overview of the Loan Exhibition² by Mary Doering, private collector, consultant and former Curator of the American Red Cross Museum catalogues the diversity of the Victorian Era as presented by the Loan Exhibition.

 White House Conservatories² by William Seale. Mr. Seale, an architectural historian and author of The White House: The History of an American Idea is also our luncheon speaker.

 Overview of the Victorian Era² by Donald Pierce, Curator of Decorative Arts, High Museum of Art, Atlanta. With case study of the acquisition of the Virginia Carroll Crawford collection of important Victorian furniture and accessories. 

 The Secret Language of Victorian Decor² by Jane Weiss. Professor, Hunter College, CUNY. Focusing on the kitchen, bedroom and parlor and how simple objects communicated the cultural position, aspirations and values of the household.   

 Language of Flowers² by Donald Scheid, horticulturalist, Northern Virginia Community College. Discussion of gardens outside and floral arrangements within the Victorian home.

 Shall I Send the Mutton: Dining Practices of the Victorians² by Henry J. Duffy, former Curator of Lyndhurst, the Gould estate. An examination of the precise etiquette and ritual of dining in middle and upper-class Victorian homes with focus on holloware, flatware, and ceramics designed for specific use.

 The Sculpture of Augustus Saint-Gaudens² by Greg Schwarz, Director , Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site, Cornish, New Hampshire. Focus on the Clover Adams Grief Memorial in Rock Creek as well as the French connection with his parentage and study at the Beaux Arts, Paris.

Merritt Ierley, author of the forthcoming book Comforts of Home, discusses the impact of the Industrial Revolution on the Victorian Home with a focus on the Victorian bathroom.

Raymond Dobard, author of Hidden in Plain View: A Secret Story of Quilts and the Underground Railroad. Discussion of the theory that some slave quilt symbols were code for escape routes.

Will Stapp, former Curator of Photography at the National Portrait Gallery, discusses the importance and effect of photography.

 Washington in 1900² by Sherry Birk, Curator at The Octagon. As we begin a new millennium, a look back to the way we looked at the turn of the century with an examination of Washington¹s Victorian architecture: Vaux Galladet, St. Elizabeth¹s, Sumner School, the Renwick, the Heurich mansion. * not confirmed

On Thursday there is as lecture/lunch and the speaker will be William Seale, architectural historian, White House historian who will probably talk on the White House and Its Secrets

Friday morning there will be a talk on Victorian Jewelry in the morning and in the afternoon, there will be 7 talks at Dealer's booths probably around the theme of what is important in the Vic Era for collecting antiques.

On Sunday there is a Brunch/Lecture and the speaker will be The Motley Fool - stock analysts who are very amusing and often accurate!

Now that you know what we have in place and the topics we have covered - sorry it took so long - what I could use input on is our Saturday program which will be a Symposium of Victorian Era.

These are the topics that we are considering:
    €  Building and Interiors - how they interrelated
    €  Photography - how it changed how we 'view' the past
   €   Impact of Civil War on Victorian Era
	  €  Changing Role of Women during this Ear - including costume, restrictions, etc.
		€  Inventions that changed the world
	€  Leisure & Means
	€  Social Mores - Do As I Say Not As I Do
	€  Hazards, Health & Healing (changed from Mysticism & Medicine)	

Let me know, please, what you would be interested in knowing more about - our focus is the Vic Era in the United States! Any and all ideas are welcome....many, many thanks. If you want to be put on our snail mail list, pls. email me privately with your name and address.

Margo King, Show Chair in Potomac, MD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 17:35:38 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tool dip
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 18:46:30 -0400
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>


H'lo all

Been listening  with interest about the use of "Tool Dip" for coating stay tips. I must admit, it was the first thing that popped into my mind as well.  However, please allow me to caution you a little about this product. I've used a similar product called "Rubberize It"  for what it was designed for- recoating tools. I don't think that it's a simple acrylic paint.  It has very strong noxious fumes, and the label contains serious warnings about ventilation etc.  It also cautions against the use of the product for any type of food contact. I realize that recoating a stay doesn't mean you're going to eat it, all I am saying is that it has a strong chemical composition.  ***Please read the label carefully and exercise common sense when using this.*** 
If it turns out that "Tool Dip" really is acrylic and is a totally different thing, then I'm really sorry for jumping in.  Just trying to save everyone from, literally, a big headache.


Thanks

Alianora

Linda Rice
VMAA


> Moisture - should be no problem.  Heat - I don't think a dryer would do
> anything, but an iron at anything above "silk" temp might.  It's basically
> thick acrylic paint.
Hmmm....does this mean you could use acrylic paint to finish bones? Would
it crack?
I have lots of acrylic paint.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 19:01:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 20:16:02 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: How to get grease out of t-shirts
In-Reply-To: <19990714.133900.5231.7.kayherb@juno.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings all,

With the current thread on cleaning, I have a question.  How does one get a
greasy food stain out of a cotton t-shirt after it has already been washed?

Thanks,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 19:13:53 1999
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> 
> With the current thread on cleaning, I have a question.  How does one get a greasy food stain out of a cotton t-shirt after it has already been washed?
> 
>


Goop, the stuff used to clean your hands after working on a car.  You
should be able to find it in the autoparts section.  

You simply run a little of the stuff onto the stain, maybe let it sit
while the washer fills, then toss it into wash as usual.

I used it on a dress of cloth/polyester blend that had grease from a
chicken fried steak finger dribbled on it-the dress had been washed
several times and dried and it took all the grease out.  I also used it
on a cotton knit dress that had popcorn butter on it.  

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 20:06:49 1999
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-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>

> -Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
>
> Thanks for the Tool Dip suggestion!  I have seen this stuff in stores,
but
> was unsure how it would behave when dry.  Does anyone on the list know
how
> it holds up to moisture and/or heat?  My fear is that the finished corset
> will accidentally get tossed in the dryer or ironed or something and I'll
> wind up with great blots of rubbery goo at the ends of my casings.  Is my
> unfamiliarity with this product causing my imagination to run away with
me?

Hi all,
Popping out of the shadows to make a suggestion on this one....there's a 
product out there designed for repairing splits and rubs in the rubberish 
coating of dishwasher racks.  It's generally packaged in a little bottle 
with a brush, similar to Liquid Paper.  Obviously it stands up to heat and 
moisture. ;-)  I haven't a brand name for it, my handy little bottle was 
purchased years ago at Sears, from the product repairs department. I've 
also seen the stuff advertised in "housewares" catalogues such as Lillian 
Vernon.  It may well be available in hardware stores or perhaps appliance 
outlets.
Good luck with your project!
Kerrie
(sliding back to lurking)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 20:33:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 21:37:24 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tool dip
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I don't think that it's a simple acrylic paint.  It has very strong
>noxious fumes, and the label contains serious warnings about ventilation
>etc. ...  ***Please read the label carefully and exercise common sense
>when using this.*** 
>If it turns out that "Tool Dip" really is acrylic and is a totally
>different thing, then I'm really sorry for jumping in.  Just trying to
>save everyone from, literally, a big headache.

No, you are correct "Tool Dip" has a STRONG chemical smell and requires
good ventilation.  It is definitely NOT ordinary acrylic paint.  I think
ordinary acrylic paint would just wear off to easily - it's not thick &
rubbery like the "Tool Dip".

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How to get grease out of t-shirts
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

SHOUT works really well too.


		Arlys (whose spouse handles greasy machinery all day)

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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Danielle Nunn wrote:
>  
> No, you are correct "Tool Dip" has a STRONG chemical smell and requires
> good ventilation.  It is definitely NOT ordinary acrylic paint.  I think
> ordinary acrylic paint would just wear off to easily - it's not thick &
> rubbery like the "Tool Dip".
> 


Not to mention Acrylic paint doesn't adhere well to metals.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How to get grease out of t-shirts
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Well, there are two versions of SHOUT.  The pump bottle won't get the
grease out as well as the aeresol can will, since the can contains
petroleum distillate.  They are two different formulas
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 10 23:26:48 1999
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Subject: H-COST: tool dip, removeable boning?
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@mc.net>

> It's basically
> > thick acrylic paint.
> Hmmm....does this mean you could use acrylic paint to finish bones? > Would it crack?
> I have lots of acrylic paint.
> 
Right about the nonacrylic nature of the stuff - my can is called (I
think) Plasti-Dip.  It works more like a latex or other liquid resin;
when it dries the solvent evaporates and it "sets".  Heat and so on
shouldn't ruin it; I'd try it out on a "test piece" first, maybe a short
bone or even the ends of a cut-up coat hanger sewn between a couple
pieces of muslin.

If you use the tool dip, plasti-dip or whatever, either *do it outside*
or wear a NIOSH approved mask...  or both.  Wouldn't hurt to have either
a breeze (outside) or a window fan, facing out of the window, and dip
the bone ends right in front of the fan.  For that matter, leave 'em
there to dry as well.

By the way, can you design the boned areas so the bones can be removed
before washing, then replaced?  (Like: hand-sew the top or bottom of the
bodice, then unsew it to take the bones out; wash, put bones back in and
whipstitch the open end back together.

HTH
Heather
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 23:58:54 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Tool Dip
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
>Been listening  with interest about the use of "Tool Dip" for coating stay
tips. I must admit, it was the first thing that popped into my mind as
well.   I don't think that it's a simple acrylic paint.  It has very strong
noxious fumes, and the label contains serious warnings about ventilation
etc.  It also cautions against the use of the product for any type of food
contact. 

>No, you are correct "Tool Dip" has a STRONG chemical smell and requires
>good ventilation.  It is definitely NOT ordinary acrylic paint.  I think
>ordinary acrylic paint would just wear off to easily - it's not thick &
>rubbery like the "Tool Dip".
>Danielle

Woops - You're right - just found my can and checked.  Sorry!!!

Sandy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 01:19:43 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Online Costume Ball '99
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 02:27:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

It is that time of year again!  I am now accepting guests to the Online
Costume Ball '99.  I hope you all have been taking pictures of yourself and
loved ones all year to attend the Ball.  The webpage you need to go to with
directions for submitting your pictures is
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm .  If you are new
to the list, you may also go to this page and click on the archived 1998
Ball.  Last year over 60 people from seven countries attended the '98 Ball
and year to date over 175,000 people have visited it!!!  It has been a
blast!

We will start today accepting guests and stop Sept. 21st. The Ball will
start Sept. 30th!

Later... Penny Ladnier
The Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How to get grease out of t-shirts
Message-ID: <19990810.222954.4791.3.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

I use the pump stuff. Works fine. I do recommend letting it soak a bit
before washing though.


					Arlys
On Tue, 10 Aug 1999 23:16:27 -0400 Janice Dallas
<janicedals@mediaone.net> writes:
>
>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>Well, there are two versions of SHOUT.  The pump bottle won't get the
>grease out as well as the aeresol can will, since the can contains
>petroleum distillate.  They are two different formulas
>-- 
>Janice Dallas
>JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
>"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 02:34:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 03:44:56 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Bustle dress
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>The
magazine suggests that this dress be worn to the seaside, the country,
tennis, promenade, picnic and mountain wear.  I find it funny that they
suggest to wear this costume for mountainwear or tennis.  Can you see a
lady
chasing a tennis ball around in this bustle dress? 

As I'm walking the geology of the Pennine area (England) in my bustle dress
in october I hope they are correct ! I have seen photos of ladies climbing
up some pretty serious mountain in bustles too. Although to play tennis the
jumper seems the more popular, have you seen Cunninhams costume for sport
recreation etc ?

Mel
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Finished object(s) (LONG POST)
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

The Wedding was last weekend and the outfit I made for the groom 
looked great, even if I *do* say somyself.  I'm taking a break now 
for a few days before getting intot he next "soon to be urgent" 
sewing project.

The wedding was in 15th Century kit, involved a procession (with 
police escort) through Ludlow town from the Registry Office to the 
Castle, a "medieval" wedding ceremony (just for show) in the 
Castle Chapel and a picnic in the castle grounds afterwards.

Anyone inthe UK who can pick up Central Televison should be able 
to see it on "Love and Marriage" at 6pm on Sunday 5th and 
Sunday 12th September.  It may be networked to the other ITV 
regional chanels next year sometime.

I made the groom's houpellande.  One of the short ones (I forget 
the name,but I'm sure there is one) that comes down to the hips.

He pounted to a picture of one in a book, in blue and gold brocade 
and told me that was what he wanted, and in that fabric too....  
That afternoon I found just the fabric on the rag market in 
Birmingham and one of my companions (a local girl) haggled with 
the stall-holder to get the price down from 5 pounds a metre to 4 
pounds a metre.  The gold is a towards a creamy/beige shade and 
the blue is "dusky royal"  if that makes any sense... somewhere 
between royal blue and a sort of mid-denim....

The houpellande I made has a fitted inner-layer of cotton drill down 
to the waist.  The garment itself flares from the shoulders to the 
hem, with all the fullness pulled towards the centre front and back 
and secured in pleats that are sewn down to the fitted inner layer.

The neckline is round at the front and a v at the back.  It fastens 
centre front.  The fitted underlayer is laced edge-to edge and is 
completely hidden by the outer fabric of the garment which is 
slightly stiffened down the centre front so that it is pulled edge-to 
edge by, and completely conseals the inner layer.

The sleeves narrow down from very full at the shoulder (where they 
are cartridge pleated) and are open down the outside, with gold 
buttons and loops so they can be worn unfastened and hanging or 
fastened and covering the arm to the wrist.

The neckline, hem, wrists and sleeve-ipenings are edged in metalic-
gold braid (it was meant to be mink guards but I stripped all that off 
the night before the wedding and replaced it with the gold as the fur 
made the bottom edge of the garment stick out like a tu-tu and I 
didn't have enough time left to mess around and get it to sit right!)

Showing above the neckline and in the V at the back is a dark-red 
velvet stand collar (we had decided to go for a collar sewn inside 
the neckline to give the impression of an under-garment rather than 
risk the groom having trouble with the heat).  The same velvet was 
used for the fitted undersleeves, which tied into a band of eyelet-
tape sewn inside each armhole at the shoulder.  These sleeves 
were open up the back from wrist to just above the elbow.  the 
edges tied together at wrist and just below elbow by black cords 
with smallmetal points and allowing puffs of very fine cotton shirt to 
show in the opening (the puffs were false ones tacked into the gaps 
to avoid having to fuss with the actual shirt sleeves on the morning 
of the wedding)

With this garment, the groom wore a shirt (completely hidden) of 
thin white silk, a pair of blue cotton damask fitted hose (pointed to 
the waist of the fitted inner of the houpellande) in dark blue, a hat of 
blue/green velvet (band around head, small circle pleated to top 
edge, not bagging very much above it).  The brown suede 
thighboots he wore with it could barely be seen under the leg-
armour he also wore (which is lucky because they are *ancient* 
and have seen a great deal of use on the battlefield)

The bride was in a kellow satin cotehardie and a heavy gold 
brocade sideless surcote with white fur edging to the neck and 
armholes.  It had a long train and was decorated down the front 
with 4 pairs of ermine tails, joined with gold beads, each pair with a 
large pearl drop hanging from it.  There were also 3 gold chains and 
3 strings of pearls in alternating rows draped from shoulder to 
shoulder across the front so that the top(shortest) chain followed 
the bottom edge of the fur guard around the neck.  My partner (with 
my help) made the surcote.  His first venture into making for 
someone other than himself (never again, he has vowed....<g>)

She also had a beautiful headdress, made by one of the other 
wedding-guests, with rolls of (false) hair above each ear, bound in 
nets of pearl beads, a gold-metal coronet in the shape of 
dragonflies standing wingtip to wingtip around her head and a veil of 
thin cream silk "cloth of gold"  edged in pearls.

Her shoes were orange suede, with stuffed pointed toes and a 
piece coming up high at the back of the ankle with a thin strap 
going around the ankle from it.

All in all they looked great.  The whole group looked good even if 
we did have a few last minute problems, such as the bride's 18 
year old son not fitting into his costume (apprentice blacksmith and 
still growing) so having to borrow an old one of mine (red and gold 
qhartered cotehardie - the gold matching his mother's surcote, by 
pure chance).  The bride's youngest (aged nine) son couldn't fit his 
new splints under his boots so had to do with out (I carried him 
during the procession) and several car-loads of us (including the 
best-mand and one of the flower girls) had a frantic run through the 
town to the registry office for the wedding proper after having been 
delayed in finding parking spaces (Saturday morning in the town 
centre with a market going on...<g>)

As soon as I have pictures,I'll try and get them scanned



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Tool Dip
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 09:05:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Asia Reva Poppers" <apoppers@bbnplanet.com>

Well, I picked up a jar of stuff called "Plasti-Dip" at Home Depot; I'm
assuming it's a very similar product to "Tool-Dip," and it's certainly menat
to be used for the same purpose.  It does indeed have lots of warnings about
ventilation, flammability, etc., so I'll be using it outside to avoid
filling my small house with fumes.  I may also finish some of the bones with
nail polish so I can compare results and decide which method I like best.

Thanks again to everyone who responded on the list and privately with
suggestions and information about these methods.  I'll be placing the
grommets in the corset tonight, and once I've tried it on, the bones get
dipped, the edges get bound and Voila!  It's not art, but it's my first
attempt, and so far it looks like it's going to work.

I appreciate all the help!

Asia

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 08:01:24 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: How to get grease out of t-shirts
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 06:16:43 -0700
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

Sometimes baby shampoo works very well for getting grease stains out of
cotton.  I got this hint from Lands' End.  After I saw the hint, I grabbed a
knit shirt which had a grease stain on the bosom, and which I'd washed and
dried repeatedly without making a dent.  I rubbed baby shampoo into the
spot, washed with a normal load, and poof! no stain.

I would recommend a baby shampoo that doesn't have conditioner added, of
course.  

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 08:03:46 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Bustle Dress
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 06:19:03 -0700
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

I once read a Victorian memoir whose author pointed out that when ladies
played tennis, the men were expected to pat the ball _to_ them.  It was very
bad manners to slam the ball overhand to a lady.

People adapted their activities to their clothes, not always vice versa.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Penny Ladnier [mailto:penny.creative.outlets@erols.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 4:01 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: H-COST: Bustle Dress
> 
> I find it funny 
> that they
> suggest to wear this costume for mountainwear or tennis.  Can 
> you see a lady
> chasing a tennis ball around in this bustle dress?  Maybe the magazine
> should have stated wearing to watch a tennis game.
> 
 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 08:30:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 09:09:23 -0500
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	 <19990714.115941.5231.8.kayherb@juno.com> <3.0.1.32.19990810201602.00977af0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Paula Hanna <phanna@tpcgi.com>

>How does one get a
>greasy food stain out of a cotton t-shirt after it has already been washed?

Get some Dawn. I had a skirt that I had washed about twenty times, and the liquid dish soap just
pulled it right out. Squeeze enough out to cover the stain, then throw it in the wash as usual.

Paula

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 08:34:00 1999
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From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kirby Hall - Saturday
To: "Historic Costume List (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

I have decided to take the risk and go to Kirby Hall on Saturday.  I won't
be in costume but I hope to meet up with a few of you while I am there.  I
was going to stick a picture of myself up on my webpage so people at least
had an idea of what I looked like.  Unfortunately I hate cameras so the only
photos I could lay my hands on were from about 6 years ago.  I will attempt
a description of myself, but you'll probably be able to recognise me more
from my partner than myself.
	Right I about 5'8" brown shoulder length curly hair, glasses, slim
build.  Noticeably very pale (the only person to go to Florida in May and
come home without a tan!).  Simon is a better bet as he really stands out.
He's 6'2", shaved head, red goatee beard, very large (48" chest! and I'm
making a waistcoat for that I must be mad!).  So if you see two people
answer these descriptions its probably us, please come up and say hello.  

Elizabeth (Rachel - will answer to both) 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bustle Dress
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/11/1999 9:17:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
betsyp@roguewave.com writes:

<< 
 I once read a Victorian memoir whose author pointed out that when ladies
 played tennis, the men were expected to pat the ball _to_ them.  It was very
 bad manners to slam the ball overhand to a lady.
 
 People adapted their activities to their clothes, not always vice versa.
  >>

And tennis...being a very old sport [Henry V anyone?] has been played by men 
in some outrageous outfits....doublets & hose for instance. The women may be 
in bustles but the men are in starched collars. And yes...it was a different 
game in all these periods.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 15:24:47 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 14:30:38 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Trim on 1360 dress
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

In the painting of "St Catherine of Siena and Other Saints" by 
Giovanni da Milano, c. 1360, the women are wearing gowns 
(cotehardies) with a gold band of trim at the square necklines. They 
seem to have a design on the band. What sort of fabric?, 
embroidery?, textile craft? would they have used to make this trim? 
If this picture is truly representative of the fabrics used at the time, 
would this trim have been "cloth of gold"?

You can view this picture at 
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Cotumes/text/
Middle.Gothic/CG07.html.

If you have trouble going directly to the specific picture, go to
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Cotumes/text/
Cost.Per_Styles.html
then go to the link "Middle Gothic"
then the link "index"
then to the link Giovanni da Milano (1346-1396).

Thanks!
Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 13:41:27 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> In the painting of "St Catherine of Siena and Other Saints" by
> Giovanni da Milano, c. 1360, the women are wearing gowns
> (cotehardies) with a gold band of trim at the square necklines. They
> seem to have a design on the band. What sort of fabric?,
> embroidery?, textile craft?

Well, the fabric looks like silk.  The gold band of trim is probably couched
gold done in a type of trellis work.  I have no picture to send you but I
have seen close ups of embroidery in this time in Italy on cotehardies and
that is usually what it looks like to me.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 16:55:24 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Trim on 1360 dress
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< In the painting of "St Catherine of Siena and Other Saints" by 
 Giovanni da Milano, c. 1360, the women are wearing gowns 
 (cotehardies) with a gold band of trim at the square necklines. They 
 seem to have a design on the band. What sort of fabric?, 
 embroidery?, textile craft? would they have used to make this trim? 
 If this picture is truly representative of the fabrics used at the time, 
 would this trim have been "cloth of gold"? >>

Unfortunately, all contemporary authors simply refer to "gold bands."  But 
they could have been any of the following:  loomwoven bands; brocaded 
tabletwoven bands;  embroidered bands, appliqued strips of fabric.  Any and 
all of these used gold thread during the Middle Ages, and all of them were 
used to trim garments.

Nancy (Ingvild)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 17:40:25 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> In the painting of "St Catherine of Siena and Other Saints" by 
> Giovanni da Milano, c. 1360, the women are wearing gowns 
> (cotehardies) with a gold band of trim at the square necklines. They 
> seem to have a design on the band. What sort of fabric?, 
> embroidery?, textile craft? would they have used to make this trim? 
> If this picture is truly representative of the fabrics used at the time, 
> would this trim have been "cloth of gold"?

They could definitely make trims in that time period but some of the 
details of similar paintings it looks like embroidery.

Also, embroidery can be done as a separate piece which essentially 
becomes trim.

 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 18:19:34 1999
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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 16:27:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Bustle Dress
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

Watch the movie Gigi to see what a woman looked like playing tennis in
a bustle. On the other hand, women being seriously hurt or killed
bicycling helped bring about shorter skirts for sportswear.
Carol
> 

===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 11 18:25:07 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 11 Aug 1999, Carol Mitchell wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
> 
> Watch the movie Gigi to see what a woman looked like playing tennis in
> a bustle. On the other hand, women being seriously hurt or killed
> bicycling helped bring about shorter skirts for sportswear.
I've ridden bicycles in long skirts. It's possible, although the skirt has
a tendency to catch in the chain (and the brakes, and the gears.....),
which is kind of annoying. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 09:49:27 1999
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Message-ID: <7f1164d.24e43b35@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:59:01 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Hey, has anyone seen the new Simplicity Elizabethan gown? No corset (although 
the bodice is boned and looks generally the right shape) and no shift, but it 
DOES have:

a partlet
a hooped farthingale
a bum roll
a gored underskirt
a CARTRIDGE PLEATED overskirt
ruffs
a pretty sleeve

I am so impressed. It is just amazing to me that this was put out by a 
commercial pattern company! It's no Janet Arnold, but I see entry-level 
Elizabethan costuming skyrocketing as I write this. After all, once you've 
done all THAT, how hard a leap could it be to trying out a corset? and then a 
better bodice? and then . . .

I didn't get to check out anything more than the store display, which had one 
more new costume -- "The Celtic Line." It's your basic fantasy Celtic stuff, 
with a weird front-lacing bodice, but it was attractive and at least has a 
very full skirt. Keep your eye out for more of that look at Renfairs and SCA 
events.

Gail Finke



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 10:06:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:17:00 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
In-Reply-To: <7f1164d.24e43b35@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

A hooped skirt!?!

Pattern number please!!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:59:01 EDT
> From: Gaelscot@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
> 
> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, has anyone seen the new Simplicity Elizabethan gown? No corset (although 
> the bodice is boned and looks generally the right shape) and no shift, but it 
> DOES have:
> 
> a partlet
> a hooped farthingale
> a bum roll
> a gored underskirt
> a CARTRIDGE PLEATED overskirt
> ruffs
> a pretty sleeve
> 
> I am so impressed. It is just amazing to me that this was put out by a 
> commercial pattern company! It's no Janet Arnold, but I see entry-level 
> Elizabethan costuming skyrocketing as I write this. After all, once you've 
> done all THAT, how hard a leap could it be to trying out a corset? and then a 
> better bodice? and then . . .
> 
> I didn't get to check out anything more than the store display, which had one 
> more new costume -- "The Celtic Line." It's your basic fantasy Celtic stuff, 
> with a weird front-lacing bodice, but it was attractive and at least has a 
> very full skirt. Keep your eye out for more of that look at Renfairs and SCA 
> events.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 10:33:16 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:42:59 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

ches@io.com writes: << but I see entry-level  Elizabethan costuming 
skyrocketing as I write this. >>

But is good enough, really what you are looking for? We still see the wasted 
fabric, wasted time, and just not right appearance of the commercial patterns 
for rev war costuming over the past twentyfive years.  And then, maybe this 
is not high on your list of priorities.  If "looks generally the right shape" 
 is what you want then it's a goldmine - - good luck!

Barbara Delorey
A new list 18cWoman !!!
A place to discuss everything about women in the 18th century, clothing, 
manners, mores, status, condition, and more. Stories of actual women, 
excerpts from letters & diaries, sources for study. Emphasis on regional 
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businesses. An exploration of how events affected their lives.
To subscribe to the 18cWoman list, go to :      http://onelist.com  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 11:03:01 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:13:27 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Trim on 1360 dress
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> They could definitely make trims in that time period but some of the 
> details of similar paintings it looks like embroidery.

Yes, the general consensus is that it is embroidery. I was reading 
(well skimming) the book "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince" 
by Stell Mary Newton. She says that they used bezants (metal 
castings), pearls, and precious gems on their clothing. I believe 
they worked them in with embroidered designs but also "powdered" 
them on the garment.

If I were to use a contrasting-colored band and embroider it with 
bezants and pearls or gold beads, I assume I would be doing 
something fairly period?

Thanks again,

Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> If I were to use a contrasting-colored band and embroider it with
> bezants and pearls or gold beads, I assume I would be doing
> something fairly period?

Yes.  The bezants would probably not have been on the trim though.  They
would have been powdered over the body of the garment as you said.  And I
don't think they were cast, I believe (and have seen extant bezants) that
they are sheet metal that has been hammered into a mold then cut out.


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:44:32 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Trim on 1360 dress
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> Yes.  The bezants would probably not have been on the trim though.  They
> would have been powdered over the body of the garment as you said.  

Would the pearls or gems be on the band? To my eyes (and 
computer monitor), the picture looks like the band has more 
dimension than just embroidery.

>And I
> don't think they were cast, I believe (and have seen extant bezants) that
> they are sheet metal that has been hammered into a mold then cut out.

Oh, that's how they did it. I saw a picture of a mold and just 
assumed they were cast. I found what I might call bezants in our 
local bead shop. They are about 1 inch in size, metal, but they are 
somewhat filigree -- well, they have holes in the design, if that 
makes sense. Will these imitate period bezants or were period 
bezants solid shapes?


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:05:43 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Would the pearls or gems be on the band? To my eyes (and
> computer monitor), the picture looks like the band has more
> dimension than just embroidery.

Yes they would.  Definitely.

> Oh, that's how they did it. I saw a picture of a mold and just
> assumed they were cast. I found what I might call bezants in our
> local bead shop. They are about 1 inch in size, metal, but they are
> somewhat filigree -- well, they have holes in the design, if that
> makes sense. Will these imitate period bezants or were period
> bezants solid shapes?

Bezants for 14th century England were solid little pieces with designs stamped
on them or cut from stamped shapes.  The only hole being the one used to sew
them on to the garment.  *From what I can tell so far in my research.*  I would
get something like a disk with a sun on it or a little four petaled flower.

Lightbown, R. W. ;  Mediaeval European jewellery : with a catalogue of the
collection in
                the Victoria and Albert Museum / Ronald W. Lightbown,  Pub.
info
                London : Victoria and Albert Museum with the assistance of the
Getty Grant
                Program, 1992

There is a statue of the Christ Child with a satin dress entirely covered with
bezants.  While the gown was remade in the 17th century, the bezants are as old
as the 14th century.  The unicorn is *not* one of the 14th century bezants.
:)  But this might give you a good idea.  I found the book through my local
University library.  You can try your local library or ILL.  And this book is
absolutely gorgeous.  You can still purchase it for about $250US through the
V&A.

>From what I understand about bezants is that the word comes from Byzantium.  A
Marquisse I know has done more research on these than I but if you start
digging into byzantine costuming you might find more info.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 12:53:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 13:03:29 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I have never seen a hoop skirt pattern for sale commercially like this. I
was asking for the pattern number not for an opinion. I know what the
general opinion of these patterns are. :) So rest easy and let us find out
what we want to know.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 BarbMVD@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:42:59 EDT
> From: BarbMVD@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
> 
> 
> -Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com
> 
> ches@io.com writes: << but I see entry-level  Elizabethan costuming 
> skyrocketing as I write this. >>
> 
> But is good enough, really what you are looking for? We still see the wasted 
> fabric, wasted time, and just not right appearance of the commercial patterns 
> for rev war costuming over the past twentyfive years.  And then, maybe this 
> is not high on your list of priorities.  If "looks generally the right shape" 
>  is what you want then it's a goldmine - - good luck!
> 
> Barbara Delorey
> A new list 18cWoman !!!
> A place to discuss everything about women in the 18th century, clothing, 
> manners, mores, status, condition, and more. Stories of actual women, 
> excerpts from letters & diaries, sources for study. Emphasis on regional 
> differences, and the abilities displayed in home and the running of 
> businesses. An exploration of how events affected their lives.
> To subscribe to the 18cWoman list, go to :      http://onelist.com  
> Sign up as a new member - (or if already a member)  you will find our list 
> under education / history. Follow directions to subscribe.
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:26:22 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> But is good enough, really what you are looking for? We still see
the wasted
> fabric, wasted time, and just not right appearance of the commercial
patterns
> for rev war costuming over the past twentyfive years.

Wasted fabric and wasted time is in the mind of the doer and it
doesn't matter what someone else thinks.  :)  Until they ask.  :)  If
I had had a decent pattern early on I wouldn't have wasted the
fabric.  *urg*

Cynthia

 --
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

My apologies for offending the list with a simple voiced opinion. I forgot 
that many SCA march to a different drum.  ;^) 

Barbara
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 13:34:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:47:17 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> My apologies for offending the list with a simple voiced opinion. I forgot
> that many SCA march to a different drum.  ;^)

I've found that when it comes to *my* needs for authenticity in the SCA,
*most* march to that different drummer.  I figure I'm the exception not the
rule.  :) :)

Also, many, many of the folks on this list are *not* SCA, but costumers for
theatre and film, teachers, other types of reenactors, and folks who are just
looking for something to wear to someone's party.  :)

Welcome to the diverse world of Historical Costume!  There are some great
folks here with lots of expertise.  And plenty to discuss really really
stringent authenticity as well.  :)

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

BarbMVD@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My apologies for offending the list with a simple voiced opinion. I
> forgot that many SCA march to a different drum.  ;^)

First, I don't intend to be flaming *anyone* but I *will* express my
opinion.  I don't know about anyone else but your post rather struck me
as a criticism of any person using commercial patterns (eg Simplicity,
McCall's etc) as opposed to "a simple voiced opinion".  My costuming at
this point is primarily theatrical, although I *do* try to maintain
historical accuracy (I costume for my dad who also teaches AP History in
addition to Drama), I quite often use commercial patterns as the basis
for my costumes.  It's much easier for *me* to change something slightly
(and many of the new patterns do *not* need that much changing) than to
draft an entire new pattern or buy a pattern that is accurate but costs
me $20 as opposed to $0.99 (I always buy on sale unless someone else is
paying for it! <grin>).  This may be true of others.  Just because one
uses a commercial pattern as a basis (which is what I believe the
original poster was saying...please correct me if I'm wrong) doesn't
imply that one is letting historical accuracy fly to the five winds.  I
hope that this explains my position on the matter...if I am not clear,
please let me know and we can discuss it privately.  TIA!

Kat
(now going to deal with a 6yo who wants "oreos now!!")
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 13:43:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 22:50:52 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

This is slightly off-topic, but I know there are people on this list who
may be have some pointers.  There is a book that I'm interesting in
getting reprinted/republished.  I've been told by one source that it's
out of copyright.  So my question is how do I go about determining if it
truly is out of copyright (originally published in Germany with English
versions printed in the UK and the US)?  And, yes, I'm also checking
with the original publisher to see if they are interested in reprinting.

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
Always do right.  This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest.
-- Mark Twain



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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 14:57:56 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/12/1999 2:37:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
BarbMVD@aol.com writes:

<< 
 My apologies for offending the list with a simple voiced opinion. I forgot 
 that many SCA march to a different drum.  ;^) 
  >>

I'm not a nut for complete accuracy myself but I must agree with your 
reservations about this pattern....which I haven't seen. What I want to know 
is...What does it offer that Janet Arnold does not? A full size pattern in 
your size? Janet's are gridded & if you know your measurements you can come 
up with a pattern that will surly require no more or less alteration than a 
generic commercial pattern. [Especially if the proper corset is 
worn.....something missing from the commercial pattern] Now I use commercial 
patterns all the time for neck curves, shoulder slopes, armseyes, so I don't 
want to sound like I think the pattern is useless. My question is sincere. 
What do you get that can't be found in more reliable sources? Instructions?
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Charlene Charette wrote:

> -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> This is slightly off-topic, but I know there are people on this list who
> may be have some pointers.  There is a book that I'm interesting in
> getting reprinted/republished.  I've been told by one source that it's
> out of copyright.  So my question is how do I go about determining if it
> truly is out of copyright (originally published in Germany with English
> versions printed in the UK and the US)?  And, yes, I'm also checking
> with the original publisher to see if they are interested in reprinting.
>
> Thanks,
> --Charlene

If the orginal publishers or author  cannot clear this up for you, have a
copyright search done in each country of publication. According to my
lawyer, most countries abide by each others' copyright laws but the laws are
not identical in each country.  If the book is still copyrighted in any
country in which copyright was initially registered, the procedure is not to
reprint it until that copyright expires.  That is, take the most recent
copyright as valid.  The translation has a separate copyright and its date
might not be the same as that of the book in the original language.

In the US copyright searches are done by copyright search firms.  I do not
know whether such firms exist in other countries, but I suspect so.  I would
suggest contacting a US firm first and see what they can do for you in other
countries, or what they would recommend.

Hope this helps,

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 14:12:09 1999
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From: "Lester D Mundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37B2449C.FD223D67@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: republishing/reprinting books
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-Poster: "Lester D Mundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Charlene, If what you are planning to do involves you in any cost at this
stage. ie before you actaully begin any printing etc. Your best is bet is to
get each version checked out by a professional in the copy right laws of
both continent. I would not even trust the word of the original publisher.
Remember the translation into English is a completely different copyright to
the original work. Dont take any kind of advice from anywhere  else., esp;
here.
Most web sources are out of date with current European law, and will be
again in 4and a half months time;
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> This is slightly off-topic, but I know there are people on this list who
> may be have some pointers.  There is a book that I'm interesting in
> getting reprinted/republished.  I've been told by one source that it's
> out of copyright.  So my question is how do I go about determining if it
> truly is out of copyright (originally published in Germany with English
> versions printed in the UK and the US)?  And, yes, I'm also checking
> with the original publisher to see if they are interested in reprinting.
>
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
>


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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:46:02 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kirby Hall
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Come & say hi to me, I'll be in the Wulfingas camp 5th C and have two small
gitls with me, I'll be cooking, spinning or potting I guess

Mel
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 99 16:12:55 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

AlbertCat wrote,

>I'm not a nut for complete accuracy myself but I must agree with your 
>reservations about this pattern....which I haven't seen. What I want to know 
>is...What does it offer that Janet Arnold does not? A full size pattern in 
>your size? Janet's are gridded & if you know your measurements you can come 
>up with a pattern that will surly require no more or less alteration than a 
>generic commercial pattern.

     Easy for you to say, as well as most on this list. Not everyone is 
skilled at spatial relationships or quite "gets" how to grid a pattern to 
size. It seems easy to many of us, but remember how long we've been at 
this! 

>[Especially if the proper corset is worn.....something missing from the
>commercial pattern]

     Also a good point. Most of today's clothes don't fit unless they 
stretch to do so. Many people don't know what a good fit is, let alone 
how to do it. If they can buy a pattern that's close to their size, then 
the fit is good enough for them.

>My question is sincere. 
>What do you get that can't be found in more reliable sources? Instructions?

     Independence and creativity. Being able to use the gridded patterns 
takes a bit of instruction. The original garments are described, wich may 
lead me to look for that fabric or research a period substitute. I might 
have to underline a modern fabric to get it to behave like a period 
fabric. When fabrics are suggested, it's easier and I can pock any poplin 
or broadcloth I like!

     On the other hand, Simplicity is improving their costume patterns. 
This means the average at Ren Faires and the like will improve!

     -Carol Kocian
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 16:11:08 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

kdyer@home.com writes:<< I don't know about anyone else but your post rather 
struck me  as a criticism of any person using commercial patterns (eg 
Simplicity,
 McCall's etc) as opposed to "a simple voiced opinion".  >>

Oh well, I certainly didn't mean to strike you one way or another.  As a 
historical costumer of some thirty years experience, I have no intention of 
criticizing anyone, only of pointing out a caution on something that I have 
seen occurring over and over again in reenacting which is my field.  That is 
the regret that the individual didn't wait and seek advice before grabbing 
something that looked right.  Many have said to me in my classes on 18c 
dressmaking - I wish I had known this before.

The original post that I answered seemed to hail this new pattern as 
heavensent and perhaps for many it is, as I thought I had conveyed. In taking 
a brief look at costume in all its phases, clothing, hairstyle, accessories, 
cosmetics, posture, activity, it is rewarding to see the results of ongoing 
research and "a love of the game." Unlike theatrical costuming the reenactor 
cannot take advantage of the barrier zone afforded by the proscenium arch, 
each one meets the audience face to face, toe to toe. The goal of the 
reenactor and historical interpreter is to convince others that they are 
talking to real, living men and women of whatever century they depict.

You said:
<<Just because one uses a commercial pattern as a basis (which is what I 
believe the original poster was saying...please correct me if I'm wrong)>> 
and this is why I answered, what I was referring to in the original post was 
the mention that then the individual might later be encouraged to do a better 
bodice, etc., etc., the very redoing process which is necessary if the 
individual does become more discriminating after wasting time and fabric.

Enough said, it is a personal opinion on a subject I run into constantly.  I 
shall tread more cautiously in the future.

Barbara Delorey
barbmvd@aol.com
List Manager: 18cWoman
DAR/Reenactors: http://hometown.aol.com/barbmvd/page/dar.htm
Battle Road Clothing:   http://www.ziplink.net/~mrkmcc/delory.htm

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-Poster: Kelykreats@aol.com

I'd like to know if your posting is about Pennsic. If so, I will be there as 
well . Camp 28 "Sebastain's Place" with the Barony of Blackstone.

Kelle
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:36:42 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Lester D Mundy wrote:

> Charlene, If what you are planning to do involves you in any cost at this
> stage. ie before you actaully begin any printing etc. Your best is bet is to
> get each version checked out by a professional in the copy right laws of
> both continent. I would not even trust the word of the original publisher.
> Remember the translation into English is a completely different copyright to
> the original work. Dont take any kind of advice from anywhere  else., esp;
> here.

The book is almost impossible to find used at a reasonable cost.  This is not
being done as part of a business, but because I thought it would be useful to
try to get the book reprinted.  At present I'm looking for low-cost methods to
do a preliminary search -- if they turn up that the book is in copyright then I
stop right there.  If the initial inquiries show it *might* be OK to do a
reprint, then I can spend the funds to hire a professional and proceed from
there.  So I guess what I'm really looking for are ways of doing the preliminary
checking.

Thank you for your advice,
--Charlene

--
Always do right.  This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest.  -- Mark
Twain


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-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>



AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:


{LARGE SNIP}My question is sincere.

> What do you get that can't be found in more reliable sources? Instructions?
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



This is the voice of a relative newbie here.  I am a decent seamstress, but not
great.  I enjoy learning about historical costuming, however, I am not doing
much with the information I am learning from this list (real life is keeping me
TOO busy right now).  Going from gridded patterns to a full size pattern is
overwhelming to me.  Along with making sure I get the "proper" fabric, the
"period" accessories, and all that stuff.  It might SEEM to someone
inexperienced that it's easier to just pick up a simplicity pattern at the local
fabric store than to order a $20 pattern from somewhere or to draft a pattern
from a gridded drawing.

Just a thought.  And please be gentle with folks like me.....some of us learn
from our mistakes.  If you are too harsh with your analysis of a costume, you
just might not be asked for your opinion again.  Be GENTLE (give the whole
truth, but be gentle about it)


Megan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 17:14:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 18:20:29 -0400
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 01:49 PM 8/12/99 -0500, you wrote:

>First, I don't intend to be flaming *anyone* but I *will* express my
>opinion.  I don't know about anyone else but your post rather struck me
>as a criticism of any person using commercial patterns (eg Simplicity,
>McCall's etc) as opposed to "a simple voiced opinion".  My costuming at
>this point is primarily theatrical, although I *do* try to maintain
>historical accuracy (I costume for my dad who also teaches AP History in
>addition to Drama), I quite often use commercial patterns as the basis
>for my costumes.  It's much easier for *me* to change something slightly
>(and many of the new patterns do *not* need that much changing) than to
>draft an entire new pattern or buy a pattern that is accurate but costs
>me $20 as opposed to $0.99 (I always buy on sale unless someone else is
>paying for it! <grin>).  This may be true of others.  Just because one
>uses a commercial pattern as a basis (which is what I believe the
>original poster was saying...please correct me if I'm wrong) doesn't
>imply that one is letting historical accuracy fly to the five winds.  I
>hope that this explains my position on the matter...if I am not clear,
>please let me know and we can discuss it privately.  TIA!
>
>Kat
>(now going to deal with a 6yo who wants "oreos now!!")
> _________________________________________________________________


        Using most commercially made patterns DOES mean letting accuracy fly
to the winds.  Oh, there are patterns that are taken from original garments
that are available, and SOME are good.  However the ones we seem to be
speaking of are the simplicity type.  These are not accurate, and simple
changes does not make them accurate.  One may manipulate a pattern and make
it appear more accurate, but there are just to many differences.  Seams are
not in the same places.  Pattern pieces are cut differently.

        Now I own that I am making generalizations.  More recent clothes may
very well be altered from these patterns, but not most fashions of days long
gone.

        Now...is this important, not necessarily.  As was mentioned costumes
ARE made for different reasons and that is fine, but not needing to be
accurate, or not being able to afford accuracy, while it may be a suitable
reason to let accuracy lapse does not change that it has.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 17:34:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 18:44:41 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


The pattern number is 0679 and it comes in sizes 6-20, but keep in mind the 
pattern companies sometimes change numbers on you after an initial release. 
Currently I've only seen this pattern in the Halloween costume display stand 
Simplicity has at my local G Street.  I have yet to see it surface at any of 
my local JoAnnes.

I think this is one of Simplicity's best patterns yet, it looks similar to 
one of the dresses Gweneth Paltrow wears in Shakespeare in Love, I think it's 
the one at the dance he sneaks in to meet her at, but I've only seen it once 
so don't quote me on that.  And, as others have said before, it comes with 
patterns/instructions for neck and wrist ruffs, bum roll and farthingdale as 
well as bodice with faked detachable sleeves, faked partlet, skirt and 
underskirt.

As for the criticisms people have of this pattern, I agree with what someone 
else said - not all people are as gifted at pattern drafting as the rest of 
you!  For someone who wants a period *impression* it's not a bad pattern.

I would also hazard a guess that most people will be wearing this dress to 
their local Renaissance Faires *as paying guests*, and therefore not aiming 
to educate anyone about anything.  Most faires are too restrictive of what 
their staff wears for this to make it on the staff end of things. Geeze, many 
of the guests I see at faire are dressed as barbarians, vampires or Star 
Fleet officers, if they bother to get dressed in costume at all. (And 
personally, if you're a guest why should anyone care what you wear?)  I'd 
have thought people would welcome the idea of more folks in costumes even 
remotely resembling the period, but maybe that's just me...

And If the Titanic dresses were any indication maybe a few teenagers will 
want to emmulate Gweneth Paltrow and will wear it to their proms.  In other 
words, the market for this dress is not the recreation/reinactment crowd but 
those who like to get dressed up in costume "just for fun."   

I plan to have fun wearing mine to faire once I finish it, and hey, I'll even 
be wearing an elizbethan corset under it!  ;-)

Cheers folks,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 17:35:32 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:46:58 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Simplicity Elizabethan/other patterns
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

The question was asked, what does a pattern offer?  I think I have a good
answer, because I'm making my wedding dress right now and my chosen style
is beyond my normal experience.

The dress is an Elizabethan, based on the Phoenix Portrait but simplified
to a country-gentry level.  I have done no previous Elizabethan costuming
(just a smattering of early Tudor and Restoration theater work) and have
been doing a lot of research.  I've found sources of excellent advice and
support, and I'm working with Jean Hunnisett's "Patterns for Stage and Screen."

That's really plenty to go on, but I did purchase the Period Patterns late
Tudor/Elizabethan version.  (From Elisee, an h-costumer, at Sewing
Central.)  I won't be using the pattern pieces directly, but the detailed
instructions have greatly helped me to visualize the construction
sequencing.  The pattern has saved me from reinventing a few details that
aren't clear in Arnold or Hunnisett.  There was also a tidbit about draped
sashes in the pattern documentation that I can now track down and use; I
hadn't seen this elsewhere.

Translating this into beginner's terms, the Simplicity pattern could allow
someone with scant resources to construct a very raw Elizabethan by
themselves and learn whether they had the passion to learn more. (Starting
with corsetry, one hopes--I wince with you, Barbara...)  Most people aren't
going to invest in Arnold for their first dress, and I doubt whether anyone
would be using $30/yd velvet on such a first effort also.  I can't see the
pattern being a real detriment unless someone stubbornly insisted on
interpeting it as historically accurate.  It might be the right
steppingstone for some people; in other cases, not germaine to this list,
it allows an ambitious Halloween costumer to have some real fun.  

And remember, this actually does constitute an advance in historical
clothing education for the general public.  (My friend who wears her
full-trained houppelandes to community events is often complimented on her
lovely "Elizabethan" dress by people who are clearly not troglodytes in
other areas.)

Leslie

P.S. My thanks and congratulations to this list, as usual, for turning a
possible flamefest into a constructive discussion. And thanks to Drea, the
angel of Elizabethan angularity, for her great site.  (
http://www.dnaco.net./~aleed/corsets/ ) and to Elizabeth Blackdane for
insisting that any sufficiently bloody-minded person can do this.

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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:32:59 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corset fitting aid
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

I've found a quick method for mocking up corsets that might be useful to
others.

I did my first paper pattern with Drea Leed's online corset pattern
generator.  I cut it out in stiff canvas to check the fit, but even that
was just too bendable to work with.  I slopped some white glue over it and
stuck on two layers of brown paper and let the whole works dry for a few
hours.  Voila, a stiff muslin that bends in only one direction and takes
enough stress to show me that I really do need to change the underarm
curve.  I spliced some pieces of fabric and paper onto it in the areas that
needed extension, let it dry again, and was very happy with how it all worked.

Speaking of corsets, if you're past 40 (or experiencing other gravitational
anomalies) and getting a bit of sideways spread to the bust area, save
yourself some time and just put shoulder straps on right from the start.
That's what I ultimately had to do after wasting some time trying to get
the necessary pull-in using just pressure and friction.

Leslie Helms

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Paula Hanna <phanna@tpcgi.com>

I'm with Megan on this one. While the Simplicity patterns may not be THAT accurate, I do believe
that they CAN be altered to awfully close to authentic (you've just got to know where to look).  We
all learn from our initial mistakes and criticism should never be harsh.

I for one have taken a McCalls pattern - I forget the number - the one with the psuedo French Hood
and red dress - and transformed the pattern with a little bit of research to look exactly like
dresses worn in the Unicorn tapestries circa 1490. And to top it off, impressed the reigning SCA
queen so much that I received an Award of Arms on the spot. I have made my lord fantastic
Elizabethan jerkins using the yoke pattern of a western shirt. I know it doesn't help that the
people who mock-up the dresses for the pictures on the front of the pattern use chiffon and gold
lamay ric-rac. But we all know better than that - everything simply needs to be researched a little
bit.

If you have a suggestion on a costume we are working on,then tell us kindly. And simply point us in
the right direction (pictures, reference books, etc.)

;~)

Oriana - the, doubtless, soon-to-be much ridiculed

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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 23:03:50 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 18:44:41 EDT, you wrote:

>The pattern number is 0679 and it comes in sizes 6-20, but keep in mind the 
>pattern companies sometimes change numbers on you after an initial release. 

Jst for those who may have been hoping that this means you can preview
it on the web site, unfortunately, it hasn't been updated for a month.

It's not even in the numerical list yet. I looked there first since
I'm home with the flu and can't go out and see it in person. :P

You'd think they would update the site during halloween sewing season.
Grr. I'm hopelessly curious now...

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 20:53:02 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/12/1999 6:24:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
megan@airmail.net writes:

<< Just a thought.  And please be gentle with folks like me.. >>

NEVER!!! Take that....and that  Ah Hah!!!

Seriously, never be put off by people who tell you rudely how "horrible you 
look!"...or the like. Experienced people who really want to see you look good 
will offer advice that may be crushingly stern, but fair and accurate. And 
they usually will limit their comments to your outfit and not include you. 
They will also appreciate your hard work if it looks like you were serious.

And here's a thought for those who have Daft-a-pattern phobia:

If the Simplicity pattern pieces were not marked, could you tell what they 
were? If they were just brown paper shapes, could you tell the sleeve from 
the bodice front? [I know...facing pieces can get indistinguishable but I'm 
talking the basic garment shapes] So...can you? Of course you can. You know 
more than you think about how to pattern if you've cut & sewn together 
complete garments. And many pre-sewing machine cuts are simpler than today. 
Even if you use a commercial pattern, never be afraid to make it 
"better"....to fit your taste & needs.

[Yes, it does take time....time many don't have. Still....don't forget you 
can do it.] 
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
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        <Costumers@onelist.com>, <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>
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Subject: H-COST: The big three - Historical Patterns - Photos of most
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 21:23:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

> You'd think they would update the site during halloween sewing season.
> Grr. I'm hopelessly curious now...
>
> Margery

Don't go right to this page, because I'm in the middle of creating it. There
has been allot of talk about all the "historical patterns" out right now so
here's what I'm gonna do :)

I've just finished digging through my files and pulling out all the copies I
have of patterns and pictures. I have most of the Ren/Medieval patterns, a
few of the misc. Simplicity ones I have pattern book photos of. I'm in the
middle of scanning them in and I'll post up no frills pages on my website. A
link to the index will be at:

http://unicorncastle.net/wardrobe/wmain.html

It's 9:20pm EST....don't bother looking prior to about 11pm EST  :)


~Kyna

-------
Grannd Garb
Historical Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 12 21:02:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 02:58:11 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Commercial patterns for historical garb..and leine question
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

Just wanted to add my $.02 worth...

*Some* of the patterns out there are actually pretty decent.  One
"nativity" type pattern I found was truly a basic t-tunic with armscrye
(can never remember that spelling) built in...rather than as a separate
piece...not bad, how many people look at underarms more than they have
to.  A couple others aren't too bad, once you look at the actual
pattern, rather than the slightly altered thing on the model that
doesn't always correspond.

Personally, I ended up getting that one Simplicity that has what looks
like an almost decent Irish Dress and a ...well... pretty, but not
really so right noblewoman on its front (you know...the one that laces
up the front, as an open dress, one piece).  Am I using the *whole*
pattern?  Nope.  But, the skirts are ok, as is the *general* look. 
Changing the bodice in a couple of minor ways, using the pattern as a
base it becomes a fairly accurate Irish dress...if decent material and
those few minor alterations are used.  (nope, not talking about that
apron, either.)

Have I noticed the patterns having been obviously used at SCA and
Renaissance Faires?  Yup, you bet. But consider that those people First,
may not have been "in garb" without that pattern, Second that they
probably feel pretty good about themselves at the time, and
Third...maybe it'll get them inspired to find out more (hey, that old
outfit can always be used as loaner, or grubbies).


Yes, it would be nice if the pattern companies created more "authentic"
patterns, and actually, they do seem to be headed in that direction,
overall.  However, as most people interested in buying and using the
patterns want to own/wear outfits that flatter the wearer, and are
reasonably easy to sew, rather than specifically wanting to own/wear
outfits that are completly historically accurate, the major pattern
companies will most likely never put out a whole lot that puts
historical accuracy over look and feel.

And...there are many of us out here who will probably *never* wear
something that is more than reasonably accurate.  I have a wool allergy
severe enough that I can't even wear a 20% wool skirt over other
clothing (affects my sinuses, too).  I'm also never going to have the
"proper" shape for many time periods...so wearing what's in vogue at the
time is probably out, too (even now...sigh).

I'll settle for wearing something that *looks* (from a reasonably short
distance) like it should for the time period.  That doesn't keep me from
wanting to know more about the history of what people wore, though.

Oh...and the leine question.  Has anyone out there tried pleating or
gathering enough sleeve material into the shoulder seam to give a full
look to the sleeves, rather than cutting that kimono-ish sleeve. 
Personally, I don't see that deep pocket look when I look at any of the
pics. I've seen....just an extremely full sleeve that is maybe a
*little* long, so poofed up.  Still don't know where the
drawstring/pleat up the sleeves idea came from.  Those pictures that
I've seen with excessive pleating up the arm only show it near the
bottom of the arm or if the sleeve's been pushed up the arm a bit (as in
the pics where a man has his forearm exposed for ease in movement/work).


-Elisabeth
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 00:27:08 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Group,
	I have recently become friendly with a woman who is making the new
historic patterns.  She did the Elizabethean one you all have been talking
about.  Right now she is working on a Civil War period pattern.  She was
explaining to me how hard it has been to convince Simplicity that there is
a desire for more authenticity.  They feel the public wants something
simple and quick.  She is trying with baby steps to increase the
authenticity with out angering the powers that be.  I have forwarded to her
a couple of the more positive comments.  I also gave her a good contact
from this group and another good one for the Civil War.  She is pleased to
hear constructive criticisms, but mostly needs you to write Simplicity and
tell them you are happy  that they are attempting to go to a different
level in pattern designing.  I will include some of her comments she made
to me when we first met, to show you she is an important ally.
I'm a theatrical costume designer - or I was until family illnesses pulled
me away for many years.   I was also a draper at costume shops in New York -
Broadway shows, ballet, etc. I'm a graduate of Northwestern University and
the Yale Drama School. All that and a token will get you on the subway....

Anyhow, an old friend from theatre days is now the head of craft at
Simplicity and she invited me to do some costumes for them. I begged to be
allowed to do some "authentic" (within reason) period stuff and they're
giving it a whirl.  My first attempt was a medieval gown, cape and
accessories.  It's Simplicity #8725 and 8728. It was on the cover of the
Spring Costume Catalogue. My next one, coming out in August I think, is
Elizabethan. It's based more on Shakespeare in Love than reality, but more
ambitious than their usual fare. And I think my farthingale shape is rather
good. The bodice is much too curvy where it should be rigid.

The project I'm working on right now is the Civil War.  One package is
linens only - chemise, pantalettes, corset, hoop, petticoat.  The other is a
day dress.  If this goes well, I could add ball gowns, etc. etc.

It's no accident or oversight that the costumes at Simplicity are
"costumes."  The powers-that-be at the company are sure that's what their
customer wants.  We're pushing the envelope with this experiment.  If my
patterns don't sell well, that will be the end of Authenticity for the
Masses. It costs them a lot more to produce my complicated patterns and they
expect a lot of complaints. "Hey, this thing takes a lot of TIME...."

So I have a several-fold interest in chatting with recreators and costume
society people.  Of course I'm always greedy for period research.  Secondly
I'd be interested in what sort of patterns people want. (I'm only guessing
now.) Thirdly I'd like to encourage people to buy the patterns and write
Simplicity and beg them to continue the series.  There are decades and
centuries I'd love to explore, but we have to know there's a customer for it
out there.
******************* this is a note she sent after I sent her a couple of
comments from the group:

Gail is right, absolutely right about the lack of corset.  The bodice is FAR
too curvy. May the ghost of Janet Arnold forgive me. All this "accuracy" is
so new to Simplicity, I'm pushing as hard as I can. The cartridge pleating
on the skirt was a major battle. I hope when my Civil War stuff comes out,
people will RAVE to Simplicity (they have a web site) about the corset and
hoop and such.

***********
so you can see people are listening to you, now you need to do your part by
communicating with Simplicity.



Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 01:32:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi Everyone,

I wanted to throw more in the pot on the discussion of why one would use =
a pattern.  While it is true that patterns made by Simplicity and the =
like are used mostly by the general sewer, even skilled patternmakers =
sometimes use these designs as a basic sloper. I can make a pattern from =
almost any sketch or picture for any size person, yet if there is a =
pattern with a decent sleeve or skirt, I will use it for that purpose.  =
Why reinvent the wheel?  Yes some of the style lines of these costume =
patterns are different than that of the period, but I sometimes find =
pieces of them to be very useful as starting points.  It is much easier =
for me to slap a basic pattern piece in the general size I need on my =
table and quickly sketch a new one to be period accurate, than to plot =
an entire dress on graph paper (although I can't say I don't use this =
method as well).  My point is that patterns are useful to skilled =
patternmakers just as they are to the vast sewing community.

I think that its great that the general population is open to creating =
period costumes, even if they are not accurate.  Maybe if the interest =
is great enough, accurate period patterns will be available through the =
fabric stores to everyone in the future. =20

While I have seen many people seemingly upset by the criticism of the =
Simplicity, etc. patterns, I think that it is still important for those =
that know better to inform people about its inaccuracies.  Yes, I think =
these patterns are useful in many ways to all kinds of people.  But I =
also agree with other posters....they are not always accurate and people =
should know what about them is wrong.  After being informed, the =
costumer can decide for themselves what is most important in their =
situation, accuracy or sanity ;-D

Thanks for allowing me my $.02.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I wanted to throw more in the pot on the discussion =
of why one=20
would use a pattern.&nbsp; While it is true that patterns made by =
Simplicity and=20
the like are used mostly by the general sewer, even skilled =
patternmakers=20
sometimes use these designs as a basic sloper. I can make a pattern from =
almost=20
any sketch or picture for any size person, yet if there is a pattern =
with a=20
decent sleeve or skirt, I will use it for that purpose.&nbsp;&nbsp;Why =
reinvent=20
the wheel?&nbsp; Yes some of the style lines of these costume patterns =
are=20
different than that of the period, but I sometimes find pieces of them =
to be=20
very useful as&nbsp;starting points.&nbsp; It is much easier for me to =
slap a=20
basic pattern piece&nbsp;in the general size&nbsp;I need on my table and =
quickly=20
sketch a new one to be period accurate, than to&nbsp;plot an entire =
dress on=20
graph paper (although I can't say I don't use this method as =
well).&nbsp; My=20
point is that patterns are useful to skilled patternmakers&nbsp;just as =
they are=20
to the vast sewing community.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I think that its great that the general population =
is open to=20
creating period costumes, even if they are not accurate.&nbsp; Maybe if =
the=20
interest is great enough, <U>accurate</U>&nbsp;period patterns will be =
available=20
through the fabric stores to everyone in the future.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>While I have seen many people seemingly upset by the =
criticism=20
of the Simplicity, etc. patterns, I think that it is still important for =
those=20
that know better to inform people about its inaccuracies.&nbsp; Yes, I =
think=20
these patterns are useful in many ways to all kinds of people.&nbsp; But =
I also=20
agree with other posters....they are not always accurate and people =
should know=20
what about them is wrong.&nbsp; After being informed, the costumer can =
decide=20
for themselves what is most important in their situation, accuracy or =
sanity=20
;-D</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks for allowing me my $.02.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 01:39:15 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 02:49:21 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Old Knitting patterns
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

This site is interesting for early patterns, not much before victorian (and
I recommend you ask for them as most arn't on the site)
http://www.yesterknits.com, 

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 01:39:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 02:49:26 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kirby Hall
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I'd like to know if your posting is about Pennsic. If so, I will be there
as 
well . Camp 28 "Sebastain's Place" with the Barony of Blackstone.


Kirby hall is an English Heritage multiperiod event in the UK, this weekend
near Corby

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 08:37:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 06:52:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity and patterns
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I e-mailed the Simplicity staff this morning regarding
making authentic patterns, and they have already
responded to me... they seem very receptive... I would
strongly suggest others e-mail them as well.  The
e-mail is info@simplicity.com .  Hopefull if a bunch
of us say something they will gain confidence that
this is what we want....

Sarah


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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:11:41 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> And here's a thought for those who have Daft-a-pattern phobia:
> 
> If the Simplicity pattern pieces were not marked, could you tell what
> they were? If they were just brown paper shapes, could you tell the
> sleeve from the bodice front? [I know...facing pieces can get
> indistinguishable but I'm talking the basic garment shapes] So...can
> you? Of course you can. You know more than you think about how to
> pattern if you've cut & sewn together complete garments. And many
> pre-sewing machine cuts are simpler than today.  Even if you use a
> commercial pattern, never be afraid to make it "better"....to fit your
> taste & needs.

I *can* tell the difference <grin>.  I can also 'look beyond' the
hideous fabric they make most piece up out of for the photos on most
patterns and see if it has pieces I can use.  If that fails, I look at
the pattern pieces on the back of the pattern envelope or on the
instructions.  It's just so much easier for me to have something to
start with...and some pieces *don't* need readjusting either than for
fit for a particular individual (but don't get me started on the sleeves
from Simplicity 7756! <grin>).  But even though a particular pattern may
have pieces that are incorrect, the new ones often have pieces that
*are* correct or can be made so with relative ease (at least for me).  I
don't have a problem with changing where a seam is if I have the pattern
pieces in front of me and I've looked at enough pictures through the
decades (with a historian for a dad how could I prevent it! <grin>) and
can usually tell without even looking it up if something is 'right' or
not.  Now mind you, I don't use patterns for T-tunics or those style of
dresses...I just fold the fabric and cut.  But if I'm doing something
more complicated I feel more comfortable with a pattern I can lay down
on the fabric and look at before I cut.  I've been known to add bodice
pieces to bodice pieces before cutting and skirt pieces to bodice pieces
to get the correct 'layout' of the pattern (of course, I do this on
white butcher paper and then have a 'correct' pattern...but it does save
time and with two kids, five cats and a husband to take care of I really
have to watch my time! <wink>).  Just my two cents worth.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 09:03:13 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Costume Website!
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I finally got to spend a few minutes looking at
Margo's web site... wow!  I have just been given a
lesson on exactly how much I am outclassed... *sigh* 
ah well... I suppose I shall just have to practise...
for anyone who hasn't looked at her web site yet...
take a look... I'm impressed!

sarah

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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Sue Shatto wrote:
<snip>
> 
> Anyhow, an old friend from theatre days is now the head of craft at
> Simplicity and she invited me to do some costumes for them. I begged
> to be allowed to do some "authentic" (within reason) period stuff and
> they're giving it a whirl.  My first attempt was a medieval gown, cape
> and accessories.  It's Simplicity #8725 and 8728. It was on the cover
> of the Spring Costume Catalogue. 
<snip>

I have both of these...while I won't be likely to cut out the 8725 one
on the same lines...attaching the pattern pieces will help when I'm
doing 'gates of hell' (I use a princess line dress pattern that has the
bust seam that's correct for a cotehardie).  I especially appreciated
the 8728 one because I've always been nervous about making headpieces
(in the SCA my persona is 12th C Norman, not that much into the more
elaborate headpieces of later periods).  While I am dubious about
headpiece A of this pattern, I like the way they did B & C, which will
make my life easier (but then I do primarily theatrical sewing which
*is* different although I try to make them more historical because it's
high school and the cast goes out in their costumes after the show into
the lobby).  Hey everyone...at least we're starting to see commercial
patterns *without* *zippers*!!  We need to encourage them to do better
rather than pull them down because it isn't yet 'perfect'! <grin>

Kat
(who spent the TN ren faire going "that's Simplicity, that's McCall's,
oh my ghawd...what possessed that person to pick *that* fabric...ack!")
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-Poster: Fooled You <blue@missnformed.com>

Does anyone know how to get rust out of white cotton?  Someone hung my
favorite shirt over the Rod Iron Balcony to dry...Sigh.

Thanks,
Erin

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

=nd If the Titanic dresses were any indication maybe a few teenagers will 
>want to emmulate Gweneth Paltrow and will wear it to their proms.  

You bet!  I've already been contacted by one girl who wants an Elizabethan
prom gown.

I agree that IF this costume pattern is even close to the right look,
there's a place for it.  When teaching my Elizabethan costume class, I found
that most of my students were intimidated by the idea of sewing without a
pattern.  If I can take this one and write a detailed explanation of what to
do to it to make it more feasible,  it will be a big help.

To the person who's actually seen it:  You say it's uncorseted.  Is the
bodice shaped with darts or seams?
  
Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 10:55:02 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>       I have recently become friendly with a woman who is making the new
> historic patterns.  She did the Elizabethean one you all have been talking
> about.  Right now she is working on a Civil War period pattern.

Thanks for the post.   I went to three stores last night until I found the new
Elizabethan #0679.  I am *very* impressed.  Sure, there are aspects that aren't
perfect, like the rounded bosom.  But damn!  This pattern rocks!  And the Celtic
one isn't bad either for what we call in our SCA neck of the woods, Scottish
Renn.  *g*  I *know* it's not authentic in certain ways so I don't need to be
informed of that.  I am just so glad the Simplicity is finally taking the risk
(and McCall's and Butterick are frantically trying to catch up but not quite
getting it).  These patterns are affordable, excellent for the beginner who is
totally overwhelmed by *authenticity* standards and pattern drafting.  I
recommend these patterns all the time to newcomers.

I don't think I told you all, I'm the new Sewing Guild head here in Seattle's
local SCA chapter.  *bounce*  They made me do it.  *g*

I wrote simplicity at info@simplicity.com  and let them know how happy I am with
the direction that they are going.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 10:57:58 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I finally got to spend a few minutes looking at
>Margo's web site... wow!  

Thank you so much!  If you liked that, there's more:  I expect the
Elizabethan Costume; History and Technique section to be up early next week. 

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 11:30:52 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, <Costumers@onelist.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Re: The big three - Historical Patterns - Photos of most
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 12:29:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Well...this will take a day or two more. We had a death in the extended
family last night. Plus this is more of a project than I thought. I'll be
working on it today and some tonight. Hopefully I'll finish then. I've had
time to think about it off and on and I'll be adding a simple message board
for people to ask questions about certain patterns and give opinions.
Suggestions for changing and best using the patterns that are sent to me at
patters@unicorncastle.net, will be put on the pattern pages with credit to
the authors. I'd like to keep this updated and add other patterns from
retail pattern companies and other times in history, so feel free to send me
pattern numbers, critiques, photos of the patterns etc.

Thanks for your understanding as I get this all working.  :)

~Kyna

http://UnicornCastle.net/wardrobe/wmain.html

----- Original Message -----
From: Kyna Grannd <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>;
<Costumers@onelist.com>; <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 1999 9:23 PM
Subject: The big three - Historical Patterns - Photos of most


> > You'd think they would update the site during halloween sewing season.
> > Grr. I'm hopelessly curious now...
> >
> > Margery
>
> Don't go right to this page, because I'm in the middle of creating it.
There
> has been allot of talk about all the "historical patterns" out right now
so
> here's what I'm gonna do :)
>
> I've just finished digging through my files and pulling out all the copies
I
> have of patterns and pictures. I have most of the Ren/Medieval patterns, a
> few of the misc. Simplicity ones I have pattern book photos of. I'm in the
> middle of scanning them in and I'll post up no frills pages on my website.
A
> link to the index will be at:
>
> http://unicorncastle.net/wardrobe/wmain.html
>
> It's 9:20pm EST....don't bother looking prior to about 11pm EST  :)
>
>
> ~Kyna
>
> -------
> Grannd Garb
> Historical Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
> http://GranndGarb.com
>
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 11:35:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:47:56 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> To the person who's actually seen it:  You say it's uncorseted.  Is the
> bodice shaped with darts or seams?

Seamed.  With a zillion bones, 8 yards of them!  Cartridge pleated skirt.
Farthingale with hoops recommended to be purchased from Greenburg and Hammer!
:)  And 400 pearls are called for.  For the forepart.  This is a bang up job...
The skirt is going to be expensive, done this way, I wouldn't have made the
underskirt completely taffeta.  I would have added the bands to the overskirt
and kept the hidden parts broadcloth or muslin.  But that would be mainly to cut
costs.

Cynthia, sitting in amazement

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com


In a message dated 8/12/99 3:02:23 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< My question is sincere. 
What do you get that can't be found in more reliable sources? Instructions? >>

Well, there's the very important hand-holding that commercial patterns give 
less-able sewers. Often times, people come in who might have used a pattern 
in high school or whatever. If you were to simply hand them Janet Arnold, I 
think they would go away in frustration.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Costume Website!
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 13:52:09 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  
Can someone give the URL, please?  

  Liadain,
    who likes to look at purdy pictures....


> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> I finally got to spend a few minutes looking at
> Margo's web site... wow!  I have just been given a
> lesson on exactly how much I am outclassed... *sigh* 
> ah well... I suppose I shall just have to practise...
> for anyone who hasn't looked at her web site yet...
> take a look... I'm impressed!
> 
> sarah
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:05:39 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>

At 01:07 PM 8/13/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Well, there's the very important hand-holding that commercial patterns give 
>less-able sewers. Often times, people come in who might have used a pattern 
>in high school or whatever. If you were to simply hand them Janet Arnold, I 
>think they would go away in frustration.

I agree.  For my wedding, I'm using Simplicity for the bridesmaid's dresses
(although now I have to go check out this new pattern and see if it might
not work instead--it sounds great).  Neither my maid of honor nor my sister
are experienced sewers, nor are they interested in reenactments.  These are
the best choice I've been able to find.

Kimberly

Kimberly Gilbert	    kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net
"This is terrible news!  Do you actually intend to kill your 
enemies?  Can't you just speak sternly to them?"
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 11:14:21 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

Enjoy!

> Can someone give the URL, please?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 13:10:28 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>  
>Can someone give the URL, please?  


http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

Enjoy!

BTW, the Guestbook doesn't work. The section on Elizabethan Costume: History
and Technique  should be up early next week, if not sooner. 

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 14:00:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:42:29 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I think I'll jump into the fray.  I saw this pattern yesterday.

>My question is sincere.  What do you get that can't be found in more
>reliable sources? Instructions?

Well, personally I rolled my eyes at the pattern.  This is my personal
*opinion* I am EXTREMELY authenticity minded for myself.  However, I think
it would be a good starting point for a beginner sewer.

In my experience most beginnning sewers feel they need everything laid out
nicely and explained for them (essentially having their hand held).  What
they lack is confidence in their own ability.  I think patterns like this
can be used to promote confidence.  It is amazing how many people find the
concept of a farthingale or a ruff (for example) daunting.  This pattern
provided a pattern & instructions for both.  

Although Arnold does a MUCH better job for those with some sewing
confidence, I think it wouldn't be a too bad starting place for people with
no sewing confidence.  Despite the definite curve over the bust and the
open front skirt/back-fastening gown.  Those things can be worked out
later.  It would certainly provide new people with the opportunity to have
*cool* first garb.  Although I would probably wince if I saw an experienced
SCA costumer had used it as is.  On the other hand I think it's a pretty
good starting place for a relatively new person and would probably applaud
their willingness to attempt something "complicated".

Just my opinion.

Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 14:29:44 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 12:40:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> need everything laid out
> nicely and explained for them 

On this note... I need help... I have purchased
several patterns with boning in them to try and learn
how to put it in... I have yet to be successful... is
there a good resource on how to put boning in your
costuming pieces?  I am truly fustrated... while I
LOVE the corset I bought, I would like to make one for
myself, both for the satisfaction and because
purchasing them is costly... help?

Sarah

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 15:16:49 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Costume Website!
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 00:09:31 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Thanks!
   Your site is so exciting that, while I was reading up on "Bad Eliz.
Costuming",
the lights went out over half the county for an hour....<G>

Liadain

> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> BTW, the Guestbook doesn't work. The section on Elizabethan Costume:
History
> and Technique  should be up early next week, if not sooner. 
> 
> Margo
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 
>
>On this note... I need help... I have purchased
>several patterns with boning in them to try and learn
>how to put it in... I have yet to be successful... is
>there a good resource on how to put boning in your
>costuming pieces?  I am truly fustrated...

Sarah, why not ask for help here on the list?

Specifically, tell us what methods and materials  you've tried and what the
problems were.  I'm sure someone here has a method that will work for you.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 16:13:43 1999
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From: "Lena Meyer" <premier@bright.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rust out of cotton
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 17:17:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Lena Meyer" <premier@bright.net>

Erin,
Yes, I just went through this trying to get rust out of white 50 cotton/50
poly. What worked the best is Carbona Stain Devils, spot remover for rust,
available at Walmart near the cleaning products, and rit dyes. it a small
yellow bottle only about 6 inches high. Worked great. If it doesn't get it
out right away, let it set overnight, next morning stain was gone.
I tried everything, this stuff worked great. Good Luck.

Lena

-----Original Message-----
From: Fooled You <blue@Missnformed.com>
To: Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 13, 1999 11:43 AM
Subject: H-COST: Rust out of cotton


>
>-Poster: Fooled You <blue@missnformed.com>
>
>Does anyone know how to get rust out of white cotton?  Someone hung my
>favorite shirt over the Rod Iron Balcony to dry...Sigh.
>
>Thanks,
>Erin
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 16:27:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 13:54:00 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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References: <199908121646.KAA29488@email.boisestate.edu> <37B2FEE6.63F3A17@serv.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I'm sorry but I'm not sure who wrote:

>> They are about 1 inch in size, metal, but they are somewhat filigree --
>> well, they have holes in the design, if that makes sense. Will these
>> imitate period bezants or were period bezants solid shapes?

Merouda replied:

> Bezants for 14th century England were solid little pieces with designs
> stamped on them or cut from stamped shapes.  The only hole being the one
> used to sew them on to the garment.  *From what I can tell so far in my
> research.*  I would get something like a disk with a sun on it or a little
> four petaled flower.

Bezants were the common term for a Byzantine gold coin called the solidus.
They were used as currency up to the 16th century throughout Europe. They were
common enough to lead to the heraldic term bezant, meaning a gold disk. While
it's not likely that the ones used on costume would have been real gold coins,
they certainly would have resembled them.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:18:36 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

More than enough has been said on this topic and I'm sorry to be adding to it,
but here goes...

While I don't have 30 years of re-enacting experience, I do have 8 years of
experience helping newcomers get acclimated to the re-enactment community.
It's naïve to think that everyone interested in period costuming is going to
jump into being 100% authentic right off the bat. My experience is that people
want to jump in with both feet and need to get costumes made to do so. These
patterns are a step in that direction. It's certainly better for commercial
patterns to be available. How many do you expect would return a second time if
you told them they had to spend $40 on Janet Arnold's book, decipher and
digest it, find the correct fabrics, draft a pattern, make a mock up, test the
fit, and then sew the final project and find all the proper accessories?

We'll never have a 100% retention rate for newcomers, but if we can point them
to cheap, simple, somewhat authentic commercial patterns that are widely
available, we have a much greater possibility that they will come back for us
to help them improve their authenticity.

Leading by example is great, but driving away anyone that doesn't meet your
standards from day one will make for a rather exclusive club.

The commercial patterns are not authentic, but at least they're a step in the
right direction. Please e-mail the commercial pattern companies and give them
some feedback on these patterns.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


Barbara wrote:

> But is good enough, really what you are looking for? We still see the wasted
> fabric, wasted time, and just not right appearance of the commercial patterns
> for rev war costuming over the past twentyfive years.  And then, maybe this
> is not high on your list of priorities.  If "looks generally the right shape"
> is what you want then it's a goldmine - - good luck!

 ...and...

> My apologies for offending the list with a simple voiced opinion. I forgot
> that many SCA march to a different drum.  ;^)

 ...and...

> As a historical costumer of some thirty years experience, I have no intention
> of criticizing anyone, only of pointing out a caution on something that I have
> seen occurring over and over again in reenacting which is my field.  That is
> the regret that the individual didn't wait and seek advice before grabbing
> something that looked right.

AlbertCat added:

>> My question is sincere. What do you get that can't be found in more reliable
>> sources? Instructions?


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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:52:52 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Bezants were the common term for a Byzantine gold coin called the solidus.
> They were used as currency up to the 16th century throughout Europe. They were
> common enough to lead to the heraldic term bezant, meaning a gold disk. While
> it's not likely that the ones used on costume would have been real gold coins,
> they certainly would have resembled them.

Excellent info!  And yes the bezants by this period are only about 1/2" in size
and while many are circular, some are in the shape of 4 petals, lozenges, etc.

Thanks!  Merouda, or she who will have 400 of the little suckers stamped out,
polished, and applied within the next 5 months.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 15:01:39 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:07 PM 8/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
 If you were to simply hand them Janet Arnold, I 
>think they would go away in frustration. Yours, Pattie Rayl
         I would, and I've sewn all along...though I haven't taken classes.
Carol
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

"Carol J. Bell Cannon" wrote:
> 
> At 01:07 PM 8/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
>  If you were to simply hand them Janet Arnold, I
> >think they would go away in frustration. Yours, Pattie Rayl
>          I would, and I've sewn all along...though I haven't taken
> classes.

I agree, I taught myself to sew when I was 11 and made my first two
garments by hand using the original items as patterns (a bonnet & a
'peasant' blouse).  It's now 27 years later and I would have been
horribly frustrated had I tried to draft something from a book or used a
Medieval Miscellania pattern without having someone over my shoulder
before using commercial patterns.  As it was...the first time I saw an
MM pattern I went nuts trying to understand the instructions until the
Laurel of the household told me to use the notes for historical
reference (suitable fabrics, trim etc), make each pattern piece out of
butcher paper (I finished the Tudor gown for a girl playing Princess
Mary at our local ren faire because she had the MM pattern and was
trying to figure out where to *cut* it!) first and then just sew it
together the way it should go.  Gee whiz, the first time I picked up the
Holkeboer book (which *includes* clear drafting instructions) I was a
tad overwhelmed and I didn't get *it* until I was in my 30's!  You know,
some of you are obviously naturals or genius' at this game but the
majority of the world isn't...some have to really work at it! <grin>

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 17:48:51 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

It's now 27 years later and I would have been
> horribly frustrated had I tried to draft something from a book or used a
> Medieval Miscellania pattern without having someone over my shoulder
> before using commercial patterns.

Ya know, the first thing I ever sewed was the cotehardie and surcoat MM
pattern.  But I will say, compared to that, even Vogue very difficult aren't
that hard.
Andrea

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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Spanish Dress
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 19:07:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I think that book we were trying to remember was *Hispanic
Costume 1480-1530* by Ruth M. Anderson, 1979 by the Hispanic
Society, men and women, accessories, black and white
illustrations, $38 from Fred Struthers at
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks or e-mail: fsbks@mcn.org.

Hope H. Dunlap




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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 19:27:17 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Japanese Clothing
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-Poster: Jujenkai@aol.com


Hello,
I am a new member of the Society for Creative Anachronism in Starkville, Ms 
and am having many problems creating what I consider to be my only choice in 
costuming, the Japanese Heian Era. The problem is that I need patterns to cut 
and sew many of the costumes that I would like to make, particularly the 
Karaginu and Mo of the Juni Hitoe. If you could please help me, I would 
greatly appreciate it. I have exhausted the resources of not only my 
University and our local libraries, but also I have tried the Kyoto National 
museum and the University of Hawaii's Asian studies department to no avail. 
Please send me any information on Japanese traditional costuming that you may 
have.

Respectfully,

Brooks D. Barnes

_____________________________________________________________________

Brooks D. Barnes
506 Greensboro Street
Starkville, Ms 39759
U.S.A. 
Tel (662) 323-5799
e-mail jujenkai@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 19:44:37 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

OK, there seems to be a theme here...

I washed a teal-blue linen-cotton blend tunic and a white linen tunic
together. Well, the teal-blue, which i had prewashed before sewing, was
apparently not colorfast and now my white tunic has a teal-ish cast. I
washed it again immediately when i saw what had happened and it did get a
little lighter. But now that i've worn it and washed it again, i'm not so
sure if any more of the color is coming out.

Any ideas on how to get my no-longer white linen tunic white again? I'm shy
of bleach, since it weakens so many fibers, but if there's a safe kind or a
safe way to use it, i'm willing.

Thanks,

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 20:09:57 1999
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Message-ID: <4ae76136.24e61e3a@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 21:19:54 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rust out of cotton
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

There are commercial rust removers, and sometimes lemon juice works.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 20:12:18 1999
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Message-ID: <ac6e9bc6.24e61ee0@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 21:22:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Linen cleaning question
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Chlorine bleach should not weaken linen fibers, but you can try an oxygen 
bleach first.  They are milder.  Also, the ancient method of laying on grass 
in the sun to dry might help.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 21:08:36 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Linen cleaning question
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 22:25:38 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

RIT makes a dye remover.
Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of lilinah@grin.net
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 1999 9:03 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Linen cleaning question
>
>
>
> -Poster: lilinah@grin.net
>
> OK, there seems to be a theme here...
>
> I washed a teal-blue linen-cotton blend tunic and a white
linen tunic
> together. Well, the teal-blue, which i had prewashed
before
> sewing, was
> apparently not colorfast and now my white tunic has a
teal-ish cast. I
> washed it again immediately when i saw what had happened
and
> it did get a
> little lighter. But now that i've worn it and washed it
> again, i'm not so
> sure if any more of the color is coming out.
>
> Any ideas on how to get my no-longer white linen tunic
white
> again? I'm shy
> of bleach, since it weakens so many fibers, but if there's
a
> safe kind or a
> safe way to use it, i'm willing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lilinah
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 21:13:06 1999
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Message-ID: <b14960c4.24e62d24@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 22:23:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

In a message dated 8/13/99 11:48:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< To the person who's actually seen it:  You say it's uncorseted.  Is the
 bodice shaped with darts or seams?
    >>

It's shaped with seams, the pattern pieces of the bodice are shaped very 
similar to those in one of the Hunniset corsets of that era.  The bodice is 
also extensively boned down CF, to give a flat front appearance as well as 
along CB and at all seamlines.  

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 22:20:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:30:28 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/13/1999 3:41:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com writes:

<<  I have yet to be successful... is
 there a good resource on how to put boning in your
 costuming pieces?  >>

Where does it go? On a seam or in the middle of a pattern piece?
 If it goes in the middle, you can create "vents" [the channel the bone slips 
into] 2 ways.ONE... With boning casing, which can be ribbon or can be made by 
cutting strips of fabric on the straight and turning in the raw edges [the Q 
& D way is to just pink the edges]. Cut it about 1/4 inch wider [finished] 
than your bones. Cut the flat-linings and position the casings by sturdily 
sewing down each side of the casing [make sure the bone will slip 
inside...snugly]. Ofttimes the casings can go right off the seam allowance at 
top & bottom. TWO...  cut 2 flat-linings for each pattern piece. Tack each 
pair together so you have a 2 layer flat-lining and stitch vents thru the 2 
layers where needed. The bones can be slipped between the 2 layers and the 
rows of stitching.  Cut & round the edges of the bones. If they're poly or 
Riglene, melt the ends a little with a flame. If steel...file the edged round 
[scraping them on a cement sidewalk does this well if you don't have a file] 
and tip them in tipping fluid. Slip them in the vents. stitch off the top shy 
of the seam or finishing line. Now flat line these pieces to the fashion 
fabric. [You can sandwich the casings between the fashion fabric if it won't 
show.] Put the bodice together and fit it before sewing off the bottoms.

If the bones go on a seam..... make boning casing so it consists of a piece 
on the straight that is twice the length needed so it can be folded in half, 
stitched down each long side to create a vent for the bone to slip into. 
Flatline & sew together the bodice. pink or finish the seam allowances to at 
least 1/2 inch. Press them open. Now you can machine sew the casing on by 
putting the bodice pieces right sides together [like when you assembled the 
bodice] and keeping the seam allowance flat....so only one side of the seam 
allowance is by itself to the right. Put this under the machine and sew the 
right side of the casing to the single right seam allowance. Now turn it all 
over and do the other side [the pieces will be upside down now and the other 
side will be to the right] make sure you keep the seam allowance open & flat 
as possible while you sew this second side of the casing to it. You should 
now end up with a flat open seam allowance with the casing just sewn to it 
and straddling the seam. [it's much harder to explain than to do...NOW I know 
why to get a commercial pattern with instructions!] Now slide the bone in. 
This will work on curved seams too.
The period way [19th century] is to slip the bone in the folded casing, 
finish it off so you have a cloth covered bone. Press open the seam and cross 
stitch [in magenta floss] the bone to the seam allowances straddling the 
seam. [with the needle pointing up start at the top left, cross the bone & 
take a stitch [still going up] about 1/4 to 3/8 inch down on the right side 
catching the casing to the seam allowance....the another stitch crossing the 
bone & 1/4 inch down to the left [needle & stitches pointing up still]...then 
crossing to the right...left...right..... the length of the bone.]

Boy....that was more explaining than I imagined!. Jean Hunnisett explains 
some of this in her corset section in Vol. One I think.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 22:24:58 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37B43E1C.3BA8D6AE@missnformed.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rust out of cotton
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:38:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BEE5E4.E8853220
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Rit dyes sells a rust remover.  I used it on an ivory sweater.  It got =
all the rust out and did not damage the sweater.  I bought it at the =
grocery store.  Good luck!
  -Poster: Fooled You <blue@missnformed.com>

  Does anyone know how to get rust out of white cotton?  Someone hung my
  favorite shirt over the Rod Iron Balcony to dry...Sigh.

  Thanks,
  Erin


------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BEE5E4.E8853220
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rit dyes sells a rust remover.&nbsp; I used it on an =
ivory=20
sweater.&nbsp; It got all the rust out and did not damage the =
sweater.&nbsp; I=20
bought it at the grocery store.&nbsp; Good luck!</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">-Poster:=20
  Fooled You &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:blue@missnformed.com">blue@missnformed.com</A>&gt;<BR><BR>=
Does=20
  anyone know how to get rust out of white cotton?&nbsp; Someone hung=20
  my<BR>favorite shirt over the Rod Iron Balcony to=20
  dry...Sigh.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Erin<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 22:41:22 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Third Japanese Clothing
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:56:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

It's hard to imagine participating with the SCA on their hot
dusty fields in the Noble court costumes of the Heian
period.  ou may want to consider something simpler, like a
uneme lady-in-waiting costume:
http://www-japan.mit.edu/kimono/history-heian3.html or the
dress of the Murimachi Period at the end of the Heian:
http://www-japan.mit.edu/kimono/history-muromachi.html.

Best Wishes,
Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jujenkai@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 1999 7:27 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Japanese Clothing
>
>
>
> -Poster: Jujenkai@aol.com
>
>
> Hello,
> I am a new member of the Society for Creative Anachronism
in
> Starkville, Ms
> and am having many problems creating what I consider to be
my
> only choice in
> costuming, the Japanese Heian Era. The problem is that I
need
> patterns to cut
> and sew many of the costumes that I would like to make,
> particularly the
> Karaginu and Mo of the Juni Hitoe. If you could please
help
> me, I would
> greatly appreciate it. I have exhausted the resources of
not only my
> University and our local libraries, but also I have tried
the
> Kyoto National
> museum and the University of Hawaii's Asian studies
> department to no avail.
> Please send me any information on Japanese traditional
> costuming that you may
> have.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Brooks D. Barnes
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_________
>
> Brooks D. Barnes
> 506 Greensboro Street
> Starkville, Ms 39759
> U.S.A.
> Tel (662) 323-5799
> e-mail jujenkai@aol.com
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 22:42:01 1999
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From: "Linda" <lindap@texas.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000101bee5fc$a08a73a0$ab0bfdd0@sharp-9070->
Subject: Re: H-COST: Linen cleaning question
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 22:55:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Linda" <lindap@texas.net>

The Rit Color Remover (white box, purple writing - there are so many Rit
products.....) works wonderfully - do it just according to the instructions
on the box, including using a few boxes of the stuff at once if you have a
largish washer.  Bleach would likely be safe too, on those fibers.  Don't
use too much - *measure* the bleach, and probably use no more than 8 ounces
per washerload.

Having done this color bleed thing myself,
Matilda

----- Original Message -----
From: Hope H. Dunlap <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 13, 1999 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: H-COST: Linen cleaning question


>
> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
> RIT makes a dye remover.
> Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
>
> > Subject: H-COST: Linen cleaning question
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: lilinah@grin.net
> >
> > OK, there seems to be a theme here...
> >
> >
> > Any ideas on how to get my no-longer white linen tunic
> white
> > again? I'm shy
> > of bleach, since it weakens so many fibers, but if there's
> a
> > safe kind or a
> > safe way to use it, i'm willing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Lilinah
> >
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________________
> _____
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 13 23:58:59 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 boning casing, which can be ribbon or can be made by 
>cutting strips of fabric on the straight and turning in the raw edges [the Q 
>& D way is to just pink the edges].

Or you can buy commercial bone casing, which is a tubular woven canvas-like
material.  It saves time and sews on flat, and looks good.   Also, since the
bone is inside the tube, you can have bones that converge or partly cross,
by sewing the edges down only to the meeting point and tacking them at the
end. It comes in handy on something like, say, the point of a bodice. 
 
It's also important to cut your bones at least 1/2" shorter than the
finished casings, 1" is better.  Otherwise it'll pop out, no matter how
strong your casing is.

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/14/1999 1:09:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Or you can buy commercial bone casing, >>

I didn't mention it because it's kinda expensive [as is the tipping 
fluid...but] and one uses it up real fast. Also, it is very sturdy and good 
for metal boning but I think it's unnecessary for plastic boning [probably 
untrue].
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 14 09:14:14 1999
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Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 10:22:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Well said ,Deitmar!!And I wholeheartedly agree.
Cheers,
 Albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 14 09:57:54 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Where does it go? On a seam or in the middle of a pattern piece?
>  If it goes in the middle, you can create "vents" [the channel the
> bone slips into] 2 ways.

I've done this both ways and this was a very clear explanation (IMHO!
<grin>) of the methods I use.

> If the bones go on a seam..... 

My shortcut method is not here...if I'm using a full 5/8" seam allowance
(not something I do if I draft the pattern myself! <grin>) I finish the
edge of the seam allowance and then fold it over and stitch it down. 
Otherwise, I use the method delineated by AlbertCat.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 14 11:42:44 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


><< Or you can buy commercial bone casing, >>
>
>I didn't mention it because it's kinda expensive [as is the tipping 
>fluid...but] and one uses it up real fast.

I bought a 50 yard roll from Richard the Thread a couple years ago for $35.
So far I've made two corsets and 5 or 6 boned bodices, and I still have
about 1/3 of the roll.  

It's not a neccesity, but it's a luxury that makes my life easier.  

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 14 19:01:02 1999
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Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 17:13:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Thanks for the explaination on the boning... so, let
me just make sure here... you sew the boning to the
lining, not the actually front piece, right?  See,
part of my problem was that the pattern I had said to
sew it to the actual front piece, which created two
seams right up the front of the bodice... to me it
looked kinda silly... but if they are in the lining,
it makes much more sense.

Thanks!

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 01:58:34 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Medieval Underpants
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

There have been discussions previously on the existence of Medieval women's
undergarments, particularly underpants.

Today i was in a local second-hand book store rifling the Art Book section
and came across...

A 15th century women taking off or putting on what sure look like
under-drawers. She already has on her chemise and dress (pardon the inexact
terminology here).

It was on a wood carving on a misericord from "Saint-Cermin, the Church of
Saint-Saturnin, formerly at Saint-Chamart"

The photo was plate 90 in:
"The Hidden World of Misericords" by Dorothy and Henry Kraus,
published by George Braziller

I'm sorry i didn't write down the pub. date, but where the price was
pencilled in, it was noted that it's out of print.

The carving showed a young woman sitting or squatting and pulling on or off
what sure appear to be underpants. Details of exact shape and cut are hard
(or impossible) to discern, but the garment has two foot-holes, and from
the carved shape, it seems to have some length as well (the body and legs
are rather bunched up but appear substantial). They are definitely not
"panties", but just how long the legs and body are is hard to determine.

As for men's undies, it looks like 3 European men are wearing them in 13th
c. Spain, although they may have gotten the habit from the Muslims.

The painting was from "The Book of Chess, Dice, and Checkers" by Alfonso
the Wise/el Sabio. (aka "El libro de los juegos de Ajadrez, Dados y
Tablas") and reproduced on pp. 80-81 of "Spain: A History in Art" by
Bradley Smith. Sorry, i didn't write down more info.

The garments appear to have a waistband (or are folded over at the waist
and sewn) with a drawstring. The legs go to about mid-thigh, although one
appears to have rolled legs and another has what look like corners folded
up and anchored to the waistband. Of course, maybe these are just Muslim
men's underpants being worn by European men.

Not conclusive proof that they were in use everywhere and at all times, but
just a few tidbits.

Does anyone know if there's a facsimile edition or a book that reproduces
lots of pictures from "El libro de los juegos de Ajadrez, Dados y Tablas"?
There are several plates i've seen that give clues to details of Andalusian
Muslim garments and i'd really like to see more.

By the way, underdrawers were common garments among Muslims males and
female. I think i read somewhere that they are even described and
prescribed in the Qur'an. You can see them in paintings from Persian to
Al-Andalus from around the 13th century (or even a tad earlier) onward
through the 16th (when my research stops, since i'm doing this for the SCA).

Lilinah
SCA'ly known as
Anahita Gawri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi


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Subject: H-COST: bezants?
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

Merouda, pray tell, how are you planning to stamp those out?  

YIS and desparation for a decent stamping-out technique,
Sister Ed

>  Merouda, or she who will have 400 of the little suckers stamped out,
> polished, and applied within the next 5 months.
> 
> - --
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 10:40:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Japanese Heian garb
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

(Jujenkai wrote)

> what I consider to be my only choice in costuming, the Japanese Heian 
> Era.

Do you consider this your only choice because of personal taste, or
period-icity?  Heian is around 1000 AD, so you can go all the way up
through Momoyama (ended early 1600s) and still be period.  

And if you wanna drive the Authenticity Police nuts, try early Edo
(stiff pleated kataginu for men, obis widening out for women.  Started
1603, does that ring a bell anybody???  Edo period was both socially and
garb-wise *as well as temporally* same as Cavalier!  (Clothes got more
foppish, "gonnes" [from European traders] showed up, changing the role
of the sword and armor to more "all show and no _do_" parade stuff,
etc.)

If you just happen to like Heian, I think there will be some stuff in
Lord Effingham's forthcoming Complete Anachronist (on the drawing board
now) on it.  (Keep an eye out for his latest one, on Japanese armor,
too)

In the mean time, I'll keep my antennas up...

Sister Ed

 The problem is that I need patterns to cut
> and sew many of the costumes that I would like to make,
> particularly the Karaginu and Mo of the Juni Hitoe.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 16:38:09 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simple Shakespeare question
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 16:50:27 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

My sons just finished "Shakespeare Under the Stars" in Wimberley, TX. (they
ended their season with a final performance to a crowd of 320!! Standing
room only!)

	http://www.emilyann.org/sutstars.html

In "Twelfth Night" what is - cross gartered-?

Thanks,

Amanda Reeves

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 19:19:40 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: cross-gartered
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


> 
> In "Twelfth Night" what is - cross gartered-?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Amanda Reeves
> 
> crisscross lacings over stockings or hose(tights)
Carol
> _______________________________________________________
> 
<BR>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild<hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>Get your free @yahoo.com address at <a href="http://mail.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Mail</a>.<br>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 21:33:09 1999
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From: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)

A couple of my friends were interested in the new patterns.  They are quite
excited to have a moderately period pattern available.  They, like most
people, have a very difficult time drafting patterns from a book.  Most
people need something to go from and can adapt it.  They have access to all
the books but are still too overwhelmed to try to create their own.  (one
of them also has severe back problems and can't wear a corset anyway and
likes the uncorseted pattern-even though it is inaccurate)

One of the concerns they had though was the inability to find male patterns
(for their S.O.s).  Does anyone know if Simplicity has, or is planning,
corresponding male patterns, especially the Elizabethan?   If their out,
does anyone have the numbers??

Any other recommendations as to the "best" commercially available patterns
for Elizabethans?

Thanks in advance.

Karolee J. Smiley
Kaitlin MacPherson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 15 22:06:24 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/15/1999 5:50:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, alr@io.com 
writes:

<< In "Twelfth Night" what is - cross gartered-? >>

Though often depicted as ribbons crisscrossed up the calf, real cross garters 
were a popular style of keeping one's stockings up with a garter [usually of 
leather, I think] that passes above the knee, crosses in back & passes also 
below the knee. IOW...from the front you get a line above & below the 
knee...from behind you get an "X" behind the knee.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 02:11:37 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:16:02 +0200
From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan Blackwork
To: "Historic Costume List (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "Historic Costuming (E-mail)" <historic-costuming@onelist.com>,
        "H-Needlework (E-mail)" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

I'm testing the waters somewhat here.  I have quite a pile of sketched of
Elizabethan Blackwork from the V&A and other sources.  For my own reference
I was going to make up the individual motifs for reference, as actual
reproductions, stitches everything.  They will be done in silk on linen with
gold thread, where used.  Would anyone else be interested in having these?
I'm going to mount mine so that they will be like reference cards that can
be referred to time and time again.  Let me know what you think.  Oh and I'm
in the UK but shipping to other parts of the world shouldn't be that
difficult.
Elizabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 05:44:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 06:52:44 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Alfonso X
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Try --http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/3154/


Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 07:59:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:09:45 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Underpants
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>As for men's undies, it looks like 3 European men are wearing them in 13th
c. Spain, although they may have gotten the habit from the Muslims.

>The painting was from "The Book of Chess, Dice, and Checkers" by Alfonso
the Wise/el Sabio. (aka "El libro de los juegos de Ajadrez, Dados y
Tablas") and reproduced on pp. 80-81 of "Spain: A History in Art" by
Bradley Smith. Sorry, i didn't write down more info.

>The garments appear to have a waistband (or are folded over at the waist
and sewn) with a drawstring. The legs go to about mid-thigh, although one
appears to have rolled legs and another has what look like corners folded
up and anchored to the waistband. Of course, maybe these are just Muslim
men's underpants being worn by European men.

They sound like braies which are worn by 13th C men, kinda baggy shorts. In
England & most European areas as far as I know. See Mac Bible, Bible
morelisee etc for further illustrations.

>Does anyone know if there's a facsimile edition or a book that reproduces
lots of pictures from "El libro de los juegos de Ajadrez, Dados y Tablas"?
There are several plates i've seen that give clues to details of Andalusian
Muslim garments and i'd really like to see more.

Yes there is but it is terribily expensive $3000 or so, I'd love a copy
from the chess etc info myself, but not THAT much !!! I finally tracked it
down in Spain the fainted from the shock after converting the figure given
!

However on the web somewhere is a page which reproduces many of the
pictures. I don't have the web address as my browser crashed as I tried to
bookmark it (don't they always do that on interesting stuff ?) but I
searched on Alfonso X & chess to find it I think, good luck let me know if
you do find it.

Mel
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Kirby Hall
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I was away from my computer for the week before Kirby Hall and so didn't see the recent messages from people planning to be there. I hope some of you managed to meet! I looked for Henk but without success. I had a great time, though. Our music group gave 4 half-hour concerts each day and so had plenty of time in between for lunch and sightseeing.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>One of the concerns they had though was the inability to find male patterns
>(for their S.O.s).  Does anyone know if Simplicity has, or is planning,
>corresponding male patterns, especially the Elizabethan?   If theire out,
>does anyone have the numbers??
>
They don't have an Elizabethan pattern I would recommend, but they do have a
drum major pattern that would be fairly easy to convert to a doublet.
Shorten the waistline, add skirtings and shoulder wings with appropriate
trim,  make the sleeve detachable.  

In fact, this pattern could be useful for a fairly wide range of costumes.
Hmm...I wonder if they have a little boy's version?

.  For some reason, none of the three fabric stores in my town carry
Simplicity patterns, so I have to drive 40 miles to buy them.  Are
Simplicity patterns more expensive for the stores to carry, or what? 

Margo. 

Margo

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Subject: H-COST: Gadsby's Symposium
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 99 16:14:29 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>



     Gadsby's Tavern Museum has announced their 4th Annual Costume 
Symposium. The theme this year is "What Shall I wear? I8th-Century 
Accessories: Completing the Look".

     The Symposium is Saturday, October 2, 1999, with a study day and 
demonstrations on Friday, October 1, 1999.

     The schedule for the study day on Friday, October 1:
          9:00 - 10:00 am     Registration at Gadsby's Tavern Museum, 
Alexandria, VA.
         10:00 am - 12:30 pm  "Accessories Up Close". View and study 18th 
century accessories from the DAR Museum collection and private 
collections.
         12:30 - 2:00 pm      Lunch at Gadsby's Tavern Restaurant 
(optional, extra fee)
          2:15 - 5:00 pm      "From the Neck Up" Hands-on demonstrations 
with experts on reproducing neckwear, hats, caps, and hair items for 
exhibitions and reenactments. Booths will include:     Silly Sisters, 
Hats and caps of the 1770s
                  Betty Kelly, Wigmaking, hair weaving, head forms, and 
styles for men
                  Janice Ryan, Women's hairstyles and wigs
                  Polly Willman, Hat and head forms for display and 
storage

     More to be announced!

     The Friday study day and demonstrations cost: $50.00 early bird and 
Gadsby's Tavern Museum Society members, $65.00 after September 3, 1999.


     The Schedule for the Costume Symposium on Saturday October 2:
          8:00 am             Registration and Coffee at Gadsby's Tavern 
Museum
          8:45 am             Welcome and Introduction
                    Gretchen M. Bulova, Director, Gadsby's Tavern Museum
                    Sally Queen, Principal, Sally Queen & Associates
          9:00 - 10:00 am     "The Very Picture of Display: Furnishings 
and Clothing"
                    Barbara G. Carson, Associate Professor, George 
Washington University
         10:00 - 10:15 am     "A 250th Birthday Salute to Alexandria"
                    Jean Taylor Federico, Director, Office of Historic 
Alexandria
         10:45 - 11:45 am     "The Lowest Ebb of Misery: Death and 
Mourning at George Washington's Mount Vernon"
                    Mary V. Thompson, Research Specialist, Mount Vernon 
Ladies Association
         11:45 - 12:00 noon   "Stockings 1770 Style"
                    Carol Kocian, Independent Scholar and Researcher
         12:00 - 1:30 pm      Box Lunch (optional, extra fee)
          1:30 - 2:15 pm      "Shoes in the Age of Revolution, 1775-1800"
                    D.A. Saguto, Cordwainer and Master Boot & Shoemaker, 
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
          2:15 - 3:30 pm      "Fans: Art or Accessories?"
                    Polly Willman, Costume Curator
          4:00 - 4:30 pm      "That Art Might Help..."
                    Clarissa Dillon, Ph. D.
          4:30 - 5:15 pm      "Does Your Whole Equal the Sum of Your 
Parts? Defining 18th Century Proportions"
                    Janice Ryan, Proprietor, Recollections of J. P. Ryan

     Cost for Saturday's Symposium: $60.00 early bird and Gadsby's Tavern 
Museum Society members, $75.00 after September 3. Sign up today!


     To Register: Please register for the entire conference or make your 
selections a la carte. Alexandria has many wonderful restaurants within 
walking distance of the conference, or for your convenience select a box 
lunch which can be eaten at the museum. Checks payable to Gadsby's Tavern 
Museum.

     Early Bird Rate, register before September 3.

______   Friday, October 1 - Study Day. $50.00 per person/$65.00 after 
September 3.

______   October 1 - Lunch (optional)   $15.00 per person

______   Saturday, October 2 - Symposium. $60.00 per person/$75.00 after 
September 3.

______   October 2 - Box Lunch (optional)  $10.00 per person

______   Full conference registration.  $135.00 per person/$165.00 after 
September 3.

     Send registraton information to:  Gadsby's Tavern Museum
                                       134 N. Royal Street
                                       Alexandria, Virginia  22314
                                       (703) 838-4242, fax (703) 838-4270

          Name ________________________________________________________

          Address _____________________________________________________

          City/State/Zip ______________________________________________

          Phone:   work ___________________    home ___________________

          Institutional Affiliation: __________________________________
      (please keep to one line)

          Credit Card: Mastercard/Visa Number  ________________________

                       Expiration Date         ________________________

                       Cardholder's Signature  ________________________


          Total Registration Amount Enclosed    $  _________________

          Box lunch preference:   Turkey    or    Vegetarian   (please 
circle one)

     Hotel rooms have been reserved at the Holiday Inn Select, one block 
from the Museum. Please reserve a room prior to September 8, 1999. Call 
1-800-368-5047 and ask for the "Gadsby's Tavern Museum" rates. The 
conference rate is $130.00 per night.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 15:24:20 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 13:39:13 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BEE7EC.B9F21220
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag sleeves of the =
liene.  It was said that this was a modern invention and not at all =
period. =20
   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it documented?

  I have one and have found that even though the look may be nice, they =
are a pain to wear.  I catch it on the door knob leaving the house, I =
can't drive without tying knots in them.  The dumb things get caught up =
in the steering wheel. All this -before- I get to fair... At fair it =
gets worse.  I have 3 kids, the sleeves make it seem like 5. =20
    If it is not a period garment, what is the point?  :)
    Michelle

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BEE7EC.B9F21220
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Some time ago someone posted to the =
list that=20
the bag sleeves of the liene.&nbsp; It was said that this was a modern =
invention=20
and not at all period.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Can I get more info =
about this=20
please?&nbsp; Where is it documented?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I have one and have found =
that even=20
though the look may be nice, they are a pain to wear.&nbsp; I catch it =
on the=20
door knob leaving the house, I can't drive without tying knots in =
them.&nbsp;=20
The dumb things get caught up in the steering wheel. All this -before- I =
get to=20
fair... At fair it gets worse.&nbsp; I have 3 kids, the sleeves make it =
seem=20
like 5.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If it is not a =
period=20
garment, what is the point?&nbsp; :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BEE7EC.B9F21220--

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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 13:48:53 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

--============_-1277282325==_ma============
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


>Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag sleeves of the
>liene.  It was said that this was a modern invention and not at all
>period. 
>   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it documented?
> 
>  I have one and have found that even though the look may be nice, they
>are a pain to wear.  I catch it on the door knob leaving the house, I
>can't drive without tying knots in them.  The dumb things get caught up in
>the steering wheel. All this -before- I get to fair... At fair it gets
>worse.  I have 3 kids, the sleeves make it seem like 5. 
>    If it is not a period garment, what is the point?  :)
>    Michelle

Somewhere in the archives,  I seem to recall MaggieRose admitting that she
and someone else made it up in the days when the dirt at the original
Renaissance Faire was new.  Maggie, we could use your memory about now.
Tell us a story, Aunt Maggie.  8)

LynnD

Who has know her not quite as long.
--============_-1277282325==_ma============
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii"



<excerpt>Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag sleeves
of the liene.  It was said that this was a modern invention and not at
all period. 

   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it documented?

 

  I have one and have found that even though the look may be nice, they
are a pain to wear.  I catch it on the door knob leaving the house, I
can't drive without tying knots in them.  The dumb things get caught up
in the steering wheel. All this -before- I get to fair... At fair it
gets worse.  I have 3 kids, the sleeves make it seem like 5. 

    If it is not a period garment, what is the point?  :)

    Michelle

</excerpt>

Somewhere in the archives,  I seem to recall MaggieRose admitting that
she and someone else made it up in the days when the dirt at the
original Renaissance Faire was new.  Maggie, we could use your memory
about now.  Tell us a story, Aunt Maggie.  8)


LynnD


Who has know her not quite as long. 

--============_-1277282325==_ma============--
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:39 PM 08/16/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag sleeves of the liene.
It was said that this was a modern invention and not at all period.  
>   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it documented?
>
Umm...it's not documented, that's the point.  

I saved the entire discussion on leines, though.  If you like I can email
them to you.  

To summarize, what happened is basically that someone saw a period picture
(probably on of the De Heere sketches) of someone wearing a liene, a shirt
with large wide sleeves. That same person had probably read one of the
period accounts that refers to leines being pleated.    In the painting, the
sleeve was pushed up along a bent arm, and it was assumed  that that the
wrinkles along the top of the arm were pleats or gathers.
 So, people started making pleated and gathered sleeves.  Other people liked
the look, and started making even longer and fuller pleated and gathered
sleeves. 

Someone else decided that the easiest way to hold those pleats or gathers in
place was to sew a strip of trim or self fabric on top of them.  Another
person decided to decorate those strips with embroidery.

Another person noticed just how big those sleeves were, and thought "Hey! I
could carry a lot of stuff in there, if only the ends of the sleeves were
sewn up!"  So the sleeves started to be sewn up the fronts, with just a hand
opening, and there were imprompteau competitions to see how many 6 packs or
cats or whatever one could carry in a sleeve.  


Meanwhile, someone else noticed what a pain in the rear those sleeves were,
and that they would be much easier to deal with if they could be pulled up
out of the way.  Hence, the drawstring.

Today, some 25-30 years later, we have a garment which has become the
standard accepted item.  It exists in the thousands,  is readily available
from many merchants, and it never existed in the period it purports to
represent.

In the world of traditional music, this kind of thing is known as "The Folk
Process". 

Margo Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 17:17:15 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: History Time Line
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 18:21:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

A good while back people on the list were discussing wanting a good time
line on history.  I found one at Christy's Garden of History,
http://www.smokylake.com/Christy/History.htm

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 17:47:11 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


Can't they be purchased through a website?
Carol
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 18:05:20 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:10:10 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Mon, 16 Aug 1999 15:57:14 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>
>-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Can't they be purchased through a website?
>Carol

Yes, but when you buy them directly from simplicity, you hve to pay
the full price as well as shipping.

The fabric stores that carry them often have them for half price or
even less.

Convenience can cost you :(

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 18:12:29 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990816225714.16542.rocketmail@web601.yahoomail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Not at the half price deal that most fabric places have them for.

However if you have a Wal-mart they sell them, they may sell them online.
Most sewing stores may also have an online parent that may sell them online
for half off as well.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns


:
: -Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
:
:
: Can't they be purchased through a website?
: Carol
: ===
: Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
: _________________________________________________________
: Do You Yahoo!?
: Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 19:06:16 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:15:58 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Sorta OT -- Treadle parts??
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Hi!  Sorta off-topic question here, but with the wide array of experience and 
connections that are on the list, it seemed a good place to ask.  I've 
recently acquired a "National Two Spool" treadle sewing machine.  I didn't 
intend it to be my full-time, regular use machine, but just rather a toy or 
for while watching TV.  I didn't really check it out all that much before I 
brought it home (hey, it was free) and so now have a problem.  It's missing 
it's throat plate and I don't know if or where I could find a replacement.  
My local repair shop has no clue, either.  The mechanics turn smoothly now 
that they've been WD-40'd and I've found drive belts at Newark Dressmaking 
Supply, making the throat plate my only obstacle to a functioning treadle 
machine.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 19:22:05 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan Blackwork
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 18:32:26 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Yes!  I would be very interested.  Here in the Barony of Arn Hold we have a
successful Embroiders Guild and it would be good reference material.

Kathy

----------
> From: Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn} <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
> To: Historic Costume List (E-mail) <h-costume@indra.com>; Historic
Costuming (E-mail) <historic-costuming@onelist.com>; H-Needlework (E-mail)
<H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG>
> Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan Blackwork
> Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 1:16 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
> 
> I'm testing the waters somewhat here.  I have quite a pile of sketched of
> Elizabethan Blackwork from the V&A and other sources.  For my own
reference
> I was going to make up the individual motifs for reference, as actual
> reproductions, stitches everything.  They will be done in silk on linen
with
> gold thread, where used.  Would anyone else be interested in having
these?
> I'm going to mount mine so that they will be like reference cards that
can
> be referred to time and time again.  Let me know what you think.  Oh and
I'm
> in the UK but shipping to other parts of the world shouldn't be that
> difficult.
> Elizabeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 21:55:50 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:16 AM 8/16/99 +0200, Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn} wrote:
>
>I'm testing the waters somewhat here.  I have quite a pile of sketched of
>Elizabethan Blackwork from the V&A and other sources.  For my own reference
>I was going to make up the individual motifs for reference, as actual
>reproductions, stitches everything.  They will be done in silk on linen with
>gold thread, where used.  Would anyone else be interested in having these?
>I'm going to mount mine so that they will be like reference cards that can
>be referred to time and time again.  Let me know what you think.  Oh and I'm
>in the UK but shipping to other parts of the world shouldn't be that
>difficult.
>Elizabeth

Oh, a modern version of a sampler! <g>

Rather than sending actual samples, is it possible for you to scan them
(with a scale, whether mm or inches, or with a drafted-out copy of the
pattern) and either post them on a web page for download or send them as
graphic file attachments to those requesting them? Here in the States there
are stores where you can "hire" a computer with scanner for an hour or so
and store the images on disk (I'm going to check it out since I don't yet
have a scanner). I would love to have a set of documented patterns to play with!

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sorta OT -- Treadle parts??
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:15 PM 8/16/99 EDT, AnnoraK@aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi!  Sorta off-topic question here, but with the wide array of experience and 
>connections that are on the list, it seemed a good place to ask.  I've 
>recently acquired a "National Two Spool" treadle sewing machine.  I didn't 
>intend it to be my full-time, regular use machine, but just rather a toy or 
>for while watching TV.  I didn't really check it out all that much before I 
>brought it home (hey, it was free) and so now have a problem.  It's missing 
>it's throat plate and I don't know if or where I could find a replacement.  
>My local repair shop has no clue, either.  The mechanics turn smoothly now 
>that they've been WD-40'd and I've found drive belts at Newark Dressmaking 
>Supply, making the throat plate my only obstacle to a functioning treadle 
>machine.  Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>Jen

There is *at least* one antique sewing machine collectors' email list. You
might try a web search to find it (or perhaps someone on *this* list is
already on it), join, and post your query.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 21:59:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:13:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I went out and purchased the new Elizabethan pattern
this evening.  While the pattern itself is all right
(I WILL be chaning the rounded bodice bottom... I
personally don't like the look)  I was less than
thrilled with the colors they used... but all that
aside, the pattern isn't bad...

However, they don't have the new books in for the
patterns... does anyone know the number for the new
Celtic pattern Simplicity just put out?

Thanks.
Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 22:01:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:13:11 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

Thanks, Margo!

I was starting to wonder if I was just imagining that the sleeves just
looked full, or what!

The pics I've seen look like a very full sleeve, tied at the wrist
(though occasionally, they're pushed up to the elbow...those pics really
show that the sleeves were full).  I haven't seen any that looked like
they were "open" at the end, though.

I'm still planning to make my sleeves *that* way, not the gathered up
the top of the sleeve and kimonoed way...the only problem is...

Has anyone ever tried to put that much material up (just off, I guess)
near the shoulder...without cartridge pleating.  I'm guessing that it
won't gather...too much material to too little space.  What about small,
overlapping pleats?  With maybe a couple of inches at the armpit left
smooth?  How about an armscrye (sp?)...would that work, or seem period,
or even be necessary, considering how much material is up top and
available for movement?


Boy, am I glad this list is here.  Funny that someone else brought up
almost the exact same thing I've been thinking the last couple of weeks,
at the same time I had questions....

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 22:06:50 1999
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	 Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:17:38 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sorta OT -- Treadle parts??
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:58:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>



On the Web, search for vintage sewing machine parts and
treadle sewing machine parts on http://www.metacrawler.com.
There are 3-4 outstanding Web Sites which help owners find
parts. Sorry, I don't have their URL's handy, but did use
them successfully to find a 60 year old manual last year for
a friend's vintage machine. I thought the best one was the
one run by a fellow in Hawaii.  If you have a child, it is
the best thing to learn on, because it goes just as slow as
you feel comfortable going.  And going fast is a blast!
Good luck. It's worth having that throat plate made to fit
if you can't find an old one one.

Hope H. Dunlap





> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AnnoraK@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 8:16 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Sorta OT -- Treadle parts??
>
>
>
> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
>
> Hi!  Sorta off-topic question here, but with the wide
array
> of experience and
> connections that are on the list, it seemed a good place
to
> ask.  I've
> recently acquired a "National Two Spool" treadle sewing
> machine.  I didn't
> intend it to be my full-time, regular use machine, but
just
> rather a toy or
> for while watching TV.  I didn't really check it out all
that
> much before I
> brought it home (hey, it was free) and so now have a
problem.
>  It's missing
> it's throat plate and I don't know if or where I could
find a
> replacement.
> My local repair shop has no clue, either.  The mechanics
turn
> smoothly now
> that they've been WD-40'd and I've found drive belts at
> Newark Dressmaking
> Supply, making the throat plate my only obstacle to a
> functioning treadle
> machine.  Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> Jen
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 22:07:16 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:13:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Drawings and watercolors of the 16th Century show the leine
with true bag sleeves--very much period. The drawstring
sleeve is something else, not to be confused with the
traditional bag sleeve.  The drawstring sleeve may be just
modern "American Celtic."   If you look at the few available
drawings, sculptures, and paintings of leines through about
8 centuries, you will see that the leine changed shape.  The
bag sleeve of the 16th Century shows the influence of
fashions elsewhere at the time.  H. L. McClintock and Dunbar
and Dunlevy contain reproductions of the primary source
material, but I don't have them now, so can't specify page
numbers.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 5:41 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> At 01:39 PM 08/16/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag
> sleeves of the liene.
> It was said that this was a modern invention and not at
all period.
> >   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it
documented?
> >
> Umm...it's not documented, that's the point.
>
> I saved the entire discussion on leines, though.  If you
like
> I can email
> them to you.
>
> To summarize, what happened is basically that someone saw
a
> period picture
> (probably on of the De Heere sketches) of someone wearing
a
> liene, a shirt
> with large wide sleeves. That same person had probably
read one of the
> period accounts that refers to leines being pleated.    In
> the painting, the
> sleeve was pushed up along a bent arm, and it was assumed
> that that the
> wrinkles along the top of the arm were pleats or gathers.
>  So, people started making pleated and gathered sleeves.
> Other people liked
> the look, and started making even longer and fuller
pleated
> and gathered
> sleeves.
>
> Someone else decided that the easiest way to hold those
> pleats or gathers in
> place was to sew a strip of trim or self fabric on top of
> them.  Another
> person decided to decorate those strips with embroidery.
>
> Another person noticed just how big those sleeves were,
and
> thought "Hey! I
> could carry a lot of stuff in there, if only the ends of
the
> sleeves were
> sewn up!"  So the sleeves started to be sewn up the
fronts,
> with just a hand
> opening, and there were imprompteau competitions to see
how
> many 6 packs or
> cats or whatever one could carry in a sleeve.
>
>
> Meanwhile, someone else noticed what a pain in the rear
those
> sleeves were,
> and that they would be much easier to deal with if they
could
> be pulled up
> out of the way.  Hence, the drawstring.
>
> Today, some 25-30 years later, we have a garment which has
become the
> standard accepted item.  It exists in the thousands,  is
> readily available
> from many merchants, and it never existed in the period it
purports to
> represent.
>
> In the world of traditional music, this kind of thing is
> known as "The Folk
> Process".
>
> Margo Anderson
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 22:17:31 1999
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	 Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:28:34 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Irish liene - more questions
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:34:22 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

By the way, for the "bag sleeve," I believe it was cartridge
pleated or otherwise gathered into the shoulder, with a slit
in the front of the sleeve at the inside of the elbow for
the arm to come out.  The rest of the sleeve hung down
behind the forearm and could be used as a pocket.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Liz /cozit
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 11:13 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: H-COST: Irish liene - more questions
>
>
>
> -Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
>
> Thanks, Margo!
>
> I was starting to wonder if I was just imagining that the
sleeves just
> looked full, or what!
>
> The pics I've seen look like a very full sleeve, tied at
the wrist
> (though occasionally, they're pushed up to the
elbow...those
> pics really
> show that the sleeves were full).  I haven't seen any that
looked like
> they were "open" at the end, though.
>
> I'm still planning to make my sleeves *that* way, not the
gathered up
> the top of the sleeve and kimonoed way...the only problem
is...
>
> Has anyone ever tried to put that much material up (just
off, I guess)
> near the shoulder...without cartridge pleating.  I'm
guessing that it
> won't gather...too much material to too little space.
What
> about small,
> overlapping pleats?  With maybe a couple of inches at the
armpit left
> smooth?  How about an armscrye (sp?)...would that work, or
> seem period,
> or even be necessary, considering how much material is up
top and
> available for movement?
>
>
> Boy, am I glad this list is here.  Funny that someone else
brought up
> almost the exact same thing I've been thinking the last
> couple of weeks,
> at the same time I had questions....
>
> -Elisabeth
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:41:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Drawings and watercolors of the 16th Century show the leine
with true bag sleeves--very much period. The drawstring
sleeve is something else, not to be confused with the
traditional bag sleeve.  The drawstring sleeve may be just
modern "American Celtic."   If you look at the few available
drawings, sculptures, and paintings of leines through about
8 centuries, you will see that the leine changed shape.  The
bag sleeve of the 16th Century shows the influence of
fashions elsewhere at the time.  H. L. McClintock and Dunbar
and Dunlevy contain reproductions of the primary source
material, but I don't have them now, so can't specify page
numbers.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 5:41 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> At 01:39 PM 08/16/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >Some time ago someone posted to the list that the bag
> sleeves of the liene.
> It was said that this was a modern invention and not at
all period.
> >   Can I get more info about this please?  Where is it
documented?
> >
> Umm...it's not documented, that's the point.
>
> I saved the entire discussion on leines, though.  If you
like
> I can email
> them to you.
>
> To summarize, what happened is basically that someone saw
a
> period picture
> (probably on of the De Heere sketches) of someone wearing
a
> liene, a shirt
> with large wide sleeves. That same person had probably
read one of the
> period accounts that refers to leines being pleated.    In
> the painting, the
> sleeve was pushed up along a bent arm, and it was assumed
> that that the
> wrinkles along the top of the arm were pleats or gathers.
>  So, people started making pleated and gathered sleeves.
> Other people liked
> the look, and started making even longer and fuller
pleated
> and gathered
> sleeves.
>
> Someone else decided that the easiest way to hold those
> pleats or gathers in
> place was to sew a strip of trim or self fabric on top of
> them.  Another
> person decided to decorate those strips with embroidery.
>
> Another person noticed just how big those sleeves were,
and
> thought "Hey! I
> could carry a lot of stuff in there, if only the ends of
the
> sleeves were
> sewn up!"  So the sleeves started to be sewn up the
fronts,
> with just a hand
> opening, and there were imprompteau competitions to see
how
> many 6 packs or
> cats or whatever one could carry in a sleeve.
>
>
> Meanwhile, someone else noticed what a pain in the rear
those
> sleeves were,
> and that they would be much easier to deal with if they
could
> be pulled up
> out of the way.  Hence, the drawstring.
>
> Today, some 25-30 years later, we have a garment which has
become the
> standard accepted item.  It exists in the thousands,  is
> readily available
> from many merchants, and it never existed in the period it
purports to
> represent.
>
> In the world of traditional music, this kind of thing is
> known as "The Folk
> Process".
>
> Margo Anderson
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 22:27:44 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sorta OT -- Treadle parts??
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:46:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>



On the Web, search for vintage sewing machine parts and
treadle sewing machine parts on http://www.metacrawler.com.
There are 3-4 outstanding Web Sites which help owners find
parts. Sorry, I don't have their URL's handy, but did use
them successfully to find a 60 year old manual last year for
a friend's vintage machine. I thought the best one was the
one run by a fellow in Hawaii.  If you have a child, it is
the best thing to learn on, because it goes just as slow as
you feel comfortable going.  And going fast is a blast!
Good luck. It's worth having that throat plate made to fit
if you can't find an old one one.

Hope H. Dunlap






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 23:29:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:40:35 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:Irish leine..bag sleeves?
References: <199908170338.VAA16725@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>




> 
> - -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> 
> Drawings and watercolors of the 16th Century show the leine
> with true bag sleeves--very much period. The drawstring
> sleeve is something else, not to be confused with the
> traditional bag sleeve.  The drawstring sleeve may be just
> modern "American Celtic."   If you look at the few available
> drawings, sculptures, and paintings of leines through about
> 8 centuries, you will see that the leine changed shape.  The
> bag sleeve of the 16th Century shows the influence of
> fashions elsewhere at the time.  H. L. McClintock and Dunbar
> and Dunlevy contain reproductions of the primary source
> material, but I don't have them now, so can't specify page
> numbers.

Have you come across any of these pictures on the web?  I'm truly
interested, but so far I haven't found any pictures that don't look like
they could be just *very* full sleeves,rectangular, gathered normally at
top and bottom. 

> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>By the way, for the "bag sleeve," I believe it was cartridge
>pleated or otherwise gathered into the shoulder, with a slit
>in the front of the sleeve at the inside of the elbow for
>the arm to come out.  The rest of the sleeve hung down
>behind the forearm and could be used as a pocket.


The other question...is you mention finding a picture that shows the
forearm portion of the sleeve hanging down.  Do you remember what that
picture was (or where about you saw it)?  Are you sure it was the leine
and not the oversleeve (I've seen a couple of pictures where the leine
was pushed up and the sleeve of the overgarment was hanging, at least
partially.


Honestly, I'm not doubting that you've seen these, but I haven't come
across them yet, and I'm interested in seeing as many relative pictures
as I can before scissors meet the fabric.  Having formed a few opinions
about the supposedly authentic patterns out there (and Margo's story
about how they came about sounds believable), I'm trying to check out as
many pictures as I can to form my own opinion of how I want to make my
leine....and I've got to get that done before I can fit the bodice of
the dress....


Thanks for the info!
-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 16 23:36:30 1999
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Message-ID: <000201bee86c$31502300$2461fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: comercial patterns
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 14:06:22 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BEE7F0.84E4B160
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One benefit, I think to having purchased commercial patterns is =
pictures.  You get to look at possible color combinations, shapes, =
sizing (differences with cut of pieces) and personal enjoyment.
  I like patterns.  Sometimes, I am in the mood to sew and I  am not =
sure what.  I go through my file cabinet and look at the fronts of all =
the pattern envelopes.  I can see I want to do something like 'this' =
but, maybe with 'that' from another envelope. =20
   The measurements given for fabric lengths help give you an idea of =
what you may need to buy.  For some reason I always forget just how much =
fabric sleeves eat up.  I never get it right. I look at arms and think =
of how small they are in comparison to a torso and end up miss judging =
them every time.
       At 99 cents a shot, I buy one of each size.  It helps  when you =
are making a garment for someone else.  My sister-in-law is a apple and =
I am a pear.  When I ask her what she wants to wear, I can show her =
pictures of something* she* can help make. She doesn't have much pattern =
experience. I can also make polite suggestions for a hopefully =
flattering fit.  Visualizing can be difficult when dealing with an =
experienced seamstress, a nightmare with an inexperienced.  I am sure =
all of us can remember a time when they have tried to describe a cut or =
gown or whatever.  You know perfectly well what you are talking about =
but the inexperienced sewer has no idea what all that jargon is.  =
Pictures make things much more simple.

   Michelle

------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BEE7F0.84E4B160
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>One benefit, I think to having =
purchased=20
commercial patterns is pictures.&nbsp; You get to look at possible color =

combinations, shapes, sizing (differences with cut of pieces) and =
personal=20
enjoyment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I like patterns.&nbsp; =
Sometimes, I am in=20
the mood to sew and I&nbsp; am not sure what.&nbsp; I go through my file =
cabinet=20
and look at the fronts of all the pattern envelopes.&nbsp; I can see I =
want to=20
do something like 'this' but, maybe with 'that' from another =
envelope.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; The measurements given =
for fabric=20
lengths help give you an idea of what you may need to buy.&nbsp; For =
some reason=20
I always forget just how much fabric sleeves eat up.&nbsp; I never get =
it right.=20
I look at arms and think of how small they are in comparison to a torso =
and end=20
up miss judging them every time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
At 99 cents=20
a shot, I buy one of each size.&nbsp; It helps&nbsp; when you are making =
a=20
garment for someone else.&nbsp; My sister-in-law is a apple and I am a=20
pear.&nbsp; When I ask her what she wants to wear, I can show her =
pictures of=20
something* she* can help make. She doesn't have much pattern experience. =
I can=20
also make polite suggestions for a hopefully flattering fit.&nbsp; =
Visualizing=20
can be difficult when dealing with an experienced seamstress, a =
nightmare with=20
an inexperienced.&nbsp; I am sure all of us can remember a time when =
they have=20
tried to describe a cut or gown or whatever.&nbsp; You know perfectly =
well what=20
you are talking about but the inexperienced sewer has no idea what all =
that=20
jargon is.&nbsp; Pictures make things much more simple.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BEE7F0.84E4B160--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 00:02:57 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:17:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

  Are
>Simplicity patterns more expensive for the stores to carry, or what?
>
>Margo.
>
I can't imagine that they would be, otherwise, stores that sell them at 99
cents would be bankrupt...

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:36:33 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>Today, some 25-30 years later, we have a garment which has become the
>standard accepted item.  It exists in the thousands,  is readily available
>from many merchants, and it never existed in the period it purports to
>represent.


   This amazes me.  It is now considered one of the main pieces to a
Scottish or Irish costume for both men and women.
   The closest thing I have seen documented was a Roman sleeve.  It had a
circular piece that then ends of the bagged sleeve were pleated onto, except
for the top of the circle. (Open for your hand to come out, of course.)
But, I haven't seen anything with the pleates or gathers up the arm...Funny,
I never noticed the lack of them in pictures.

  Thanks for the history lesson. :)
      Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Irish liene - more questions
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:04:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
>-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

>Has anyone ever tried to put that much material up (just off, I guess)
>near the shoulder...without cartridge pleating.  I'm guessing that it
>won't gather...too much material to too little space.  What about small,
>overlapping pleats?  With maybe a couple of inches at the armpit left
>smooth?  How about an armscrye (sp?)...would that work, or seem period,
>or even be necessary, considering how much material is up top and
>available for movement?


I have made them two different ways. The first way: When cutting your sleeve
add a generous seam allowance to the edge that will be the top side of your
sleeve.  Sew them together.  This seam allowance will be casing.  After
stiching, fingerpress open the seam,  folding them (ironing helps
tremendously) away from eachother.  Turn under again, iron and stitch to
form your casing.   You should end up with two tubes all the way down the
length of your sleeve.
    You can add a ribbon in a couple of ways, this all depends on how much
junk you want in your way when you try to reach for something.  One, is to
start and end at the shoulder.  Using one ribbon, enter, go down the length
of your sleeve, out, then back up the other side of your casing. The other
way is to do the same thing but start and end at the wrist end.
  I did mine at the wrist so that I could easily access the ribbon to let
down or raise the length, depending on the weather.  You can permanently set
the length by sewing the ribbons down into the shoulder seam.
   The second way:   Boy this is cheating... There is a product on the
market use for making curtains.  I am not sure of the name but it is
available everywhere.  It is a long strip with two rows of thick stitching,
used for pleating.  Sew this pleating tape to the top seam of your sleeve,
finish the ends and draw it up. Thats it...
     Another idea is to pleat, then cover with trim, blackwork, knotwork,
etc.  I haven't done it myself but I have seen it done.   It looks very
pretty. Pleat, handtack then sew you trim. Easy but not adjustible.  I got
cold once at a fair and that one time I appreciated being able to let the
things down.
   I have gotten so fed up with catching the sleeves on things that if I
weren't still breast feeding I would toss the leine out! ( I made my chemise
with two open sections in the seam down the front to allow for feeding under
my surcoat.)  I won't be making any more of these...

   Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 01:25:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 01:34:48 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: talis <talis@lcc.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
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-Poster: talis <talis@lcc.net>

>However, they don't have the new books in for the
>patterns... does anyone know the number for the new
>Celtic pattern Simplicity just put out?
>
Yep its 0663 :). I bought both this past weekend.

Chari
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 02:31:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 09:38:17 +0200
From: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Elizabethan Blackwork
To: "Historic Costume List (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Holliday, Rachel {DISC~Welwyn}" <RACHEL.HOLLIDAY@roche.com>

As a few people are interested I thought that I would post this to the list.
In reply to one persons query about scanning the designs, I wouldn't mind
doing this if I thought people would use my site properly.  I am a little
ticked off at the idea of my going to all this trouble of doing the sketches
getting together the documentation and loading it up only for people to nick
it without crediting me.  We have all seen this happen.  So there are two
options that I am considering.
1. An actual reproduction of the motifs, flowers leaves etc that are found
in the original patterns and on portraits.  Each will be individually
mounted so that they can be kept for reference.
2. Not sure about this one yet, a publication of original blackwork patterns
from the 16th & early 17th centuries.  This really depends upon the cost as
to get original photographs I need to pay the V&A, this will probably mean
getting a publisher interested.  I don't really want to do a book of my
sketched and pictures of my embroidery without the source and proper
documentation.

As I am going to make the reproductions for myself I should then be able to
give a price, plus shipping.

Let me know if you are still interested and when I have an idea of cost I
will get back to you.

Elizabeth
elizabeth@witchwood.prestel.co.uk


Roche Products Limited
40 Broadwater Road
Welwyn Garden City
Hertfordshire
AL7 3AY
Tel: 01707 366441
Registration Number 100674

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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 06:12:35 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Franchesca Havas <ches@io.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 18:24
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity patterns


>
>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>
>Not at the half price deal that most fabric places have them for.
>
>However if you have a Wal-mart they sell them, they may sell them online.
>Most sewing stores may also have an online parent that may sell them online
>for half off as well.
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>Dallas, Texas
>motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


Just FYI... Walmart has a website now.... www.wal-mart.com
but all I found on it was sewing machines and books... though under a search
for "patterns" I found a book on Celtic Pattens for Painting and Crafts...
but it doesn't look like they carry actual patterns online.

Anya

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/17/1999 12:48:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<<  Pictures make things much more simple.
  >>

Janet Arnold is full of pictures [or drawings....more accurate than drawings 
on commercial pattern envelopes!] that show exactly how things look[ed] when 
made up. And as far as figuring yardages...I always end up with about a yard 
& a half over when I use commercial estaminets [which is OK...but I can 
figure it that accurately myself.] The only advantage I can see from a 
commercial pattern is the instructions for exactly how to put it together. 
[That's not a small advantage!]
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>   The closest thing I have seen documented was a Roman sleeve.  It had a
>circular piece that then ends of the bagged sleeve were pleated onto, except
>for the top of the circle. (Open for your hand to come out, of course.)
>
I can't seem to visualize this at all.  could you point me to a picture I
could look at? 

Margo

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-Poster: C Huff <cahuff@mindspring.com>

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:01:31 -0400
Subject: treadleon digest: August 16, 1999
To: "treadleon digest recipients" <treadleon@lyris.quiltropolis.com>
From: "Treadle On digest" <treadleon@lyris.quiltropolis.com>
Reply-To: "Treadle On" <treadleon@lyris.quiltropolis.com>
Precedence: bulk
List-Unsubscribe: <mailto:leave-treadleon-163807E@lyris.quiltropolis.com>

To unsubscribe send email to leave-treadleon-163807E@lyris.quiltropolis.com
or via the web at:
http://www.quiltropolis.com/NewMailinglists.asp

Treadleon is for those of us 'onions' that use the machines <G>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Singer Dating, International:  <http://www.ismacs.net/singer>
Singer Dating, US:  1-800-4Singer
Singer Dating, US:  1-800-877-7762
Singer Industrials Dating/Info., US:  1-800-342-6808
New Home Dating:  1-800-631-0183
White Dating:  1-800-446-2333 or 216-252-3300
Elna Dating/Info. on the web:  <http://www.elnausa.com>
--------------------------------------------------------------
ISMACS International:   <http://www.ismacs.net>
--------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe, forward this message to
leave-ismacs-15098H@lyris.quiltropolis.com

ISMACS is for those that collect and sometimes use the machines. The ISMACS
site also has links to many other sites for more info.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I *think* someone just recently had some questions about a 2 spool machine,
so you may be in luck. The folks are very very helpful. And hey, try sewing
on a treadle or handcrank, its fun and when the power goes out, you're
still cranking <VVVBG>

Ta
Carol
Forward into the past or something like that. Got an old machine looking
for a good home?? <G>





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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 09:53:09 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <199908140348.VAA15912@net.indra.com> <37B6FE86.7811@enteract.com>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Merouda, pray tell, how are you planning to stamp those out?
>
> YIS and desparation for a decent stamping-out technique,
> Sister Ed

Well, this is a good question.  I know nothing about working with metal.  I
have a friend here who is a metal worker and she also makes exquisite
jewelry.  She also has an interest in bezants.  She said our two options
are to cut them out with shears or stamp them out.  After making a stamp
with the design we want, we will stamp the sheet metal and then cut them
out by hand.  Or, cut/stamp the discs and then stamp the design on them.  I
am hoping to do the latter as the other sounds as though I will butcher my
hands....  Hopefully we will do this sometime in September or October (I
need them by December).  When we have done the job, I will post to the list
with my new found knowlege.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 11:42:58 1999
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From: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan Hats
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-Poster: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>

Hello!

I am in search of on-line pictures of Elizabethan riding hats. I need
creative fuel for my brain. Thanks for all your help!

Lady Zy
LadyZy@yahoo.com

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Elizabethan Blackwork
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:14:17 -0500
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1. An actual reproduction of the motifs, flowers leaves etc that are =
found
in the original patterns and on portraits.  Each will be individually
mounted so that they can be kept for reference.

this part sounds wonderful, but probably too expensive for me to think =
about...



 2. Not sure about this one yet, a publication of original blackwork =
patterns
from the 16th & early 17th centuries.  This really depends upon the cost =
as
to get original photographs I need to pay the V&A, this will probably =
mean
getting a publisher interested.  I don't really want to do a book of my
sketched and pictures of my embroidery without the source and proper
documentation.

which is why this way sounds perfect AND wonderful.  More work for you =
(although stitching all those sample cards is a lot of work on it's =
own!) , but you would have the book credit to your name, and the =
material would be MUCH more widely accessable and enduring in book =
form.. of course, publishing a book wouldn't necessarily keep you from =
distrubuting the worked-up sets seperately if you still saw a need or =
want for such.

I would suggest taking the publishing idea to the museum first,  they =
might be helpful in finding a publisher.  If they are cooperative but =
not helpful (ie:  allowing you to pay & use photos, but not interested =
in helping you find a publisher or working with you further on the =
project), Grab a copy of the current Writer's Guide for specialized =
publishing house names --  I'd probably start with Lark Books and =
Interweave Press and work through the smaller and/or less specialized =
companies afterward.

Carrie Veenstra   
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 14:01:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 12:13:16 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Doesn't La Mode Buttons have a website?  I can't for the life of me
find it but I thought someone posted it to this list.  There is a
specific model that I want to know if it's still available...

Thanks!  Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 14:37:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 15:48:19 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


I missed the original post, somehow.  But if the part is similar to what
Singer uses, you may be able to get it from them.  Singer apparently
still makes treadle (and hand-crank) machines.  Mostly for the overseas
markets.  Not real cheap, but if you don't have electricity, or want it
for the "look" and/or fun of it, they're there.

I *think* the website I *used* to have for them was one of the regular
Singer websites, but I don't remember for certain.  If not, customer
service can probably help you out.

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 14:41:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 15:54:36 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

La Mode is carried by Blumenthal Lansing Co.  Customer Service at
1-800-291-1559 could help you.  They do Retail and Wholesale.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

The patterns actually *do* cost the stores more than the $.99 they sell
them for.  But they're a "Loss item"...get people into the store for
something they'll lose a bit of money on...but then make it up in the
fabric they'll need to buy for it, the notions...and anything else that
we just can't resist in the stores.

Common sales practice, and legal as long as they have reasonable stock
on hand (note, I just added this because there *are* some businesses
that advertise such sales then don't have much at all available or for
raincheck, though they have a similar item at a higher cost available. 
*that* is known as "bait-and-switch" and is illegal in most states).


Knew that *some* of what I had to learn in those 2 business management
classes would stick...

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 14:58:45 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:12:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity (etc.) patterns
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I must say you hit this one right on the head...
example::: ME!  I went last night to Jo-Ann's to find
the new Simplicity patterns... and I bought them...
along with $75 worth of fabric and several other
items... ouch!  It works, though... I only went there
for the patterns because they were on sale.

Sarah

> them for.  But they're a "Loss item"...get people
> into the store for
> something they'll lose a bit of money on...but then
> make it up in the
> fabric they'll need to buy for it, the notions...and

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 15:19:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:31:57 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Do you have any La Mode Buttons
References: <37B9B44B.CA2857F1@serv.net> <37B9BDFC.A69515B2@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

Thanks.  I called.  They no longer make my button.  I could just
cry...  What a mistake.  These are the closest I have found to a
reasonable facsimile for actual 14th century buttons for
cotehardies...  They could sell tons!   dratdarndagnabit   #2625 3/8"
gold knobs.  If anyone has any buttons laying around...

> La Mode is carried by Blumenthal Lansing Co.  Customer Service at
> 1-800-291-1559 could help you.  They do Retail and Wholesale.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 16:03:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 14:14:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernal "spectacle"?
To: Costume Historic <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Kristen M. Sieber" <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Forgive my fumbling description, but I am looking for
pictures and history of the
"single-eyeglass-on-a-stick" thing that the Scarlet
Pimpernal carried in the various movies.  I.e. what is
it called?  What is the correct period?  Who can make
one? etc.  Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 16:09:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 17:19:36 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernal "spectacle"?
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 8/17/1999 2:15:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
lady_gawain@yahoo.com writes:

<< "single-eyeglass-on-a-stick" thing that the Scarlet
 Pimpernal carried in the various movies.  I.e. what is
 it called?  What is the correct period?  Who can make
 one? etc.  Thanks. >>
eyeglasses on a stick, or handle,  are usually referred to as  "lorgnettes" 
(lorn-YETT)  I think they are usually two when on the handle, and the single 
eyepiece is called a "monacle" Most costuming sources will carry an 
inexpensive version of both.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
W. Shakespeare
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 17:29:11 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernal "spectacle"?
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-Poster: BarbMVD@aol.com

<< "single-eyeglass-on-a-stick"  >>
Ever heard the term "quizzing glass"?  It is generally worn suspended on a 
cord around the neck.
Common in the last quarter of the 18c.

Barbara Delorey
A new list 18cWoman !!!
A place to discuss everything about women in the 18th century, clothing, 
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businesses. An exploration of how events affected their lives.
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernal "spectacle"?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>eyeglasses on a stick, or handle,  are usually referred to as  "lorgnettes" 
>(lorn-YETT)  I think they are usually two when on the handle, and the single 
>eyepiece is called a "monacle" Most costuming sources will carry an 
>inexpensive version of both.
>
I thought a monacle was the lens worn in the eye socket, with a cord
attached worn around the neck in case of falling?

>From my limited reading of Regency novels, I seem to remember a thing called
a "quizzing glass".  Is this the one on a handle?  Or is any single lens a
monacle?

Margo
 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 18:10:32 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 8/17/1999 4:17:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< I thought a monacle was the lens worn in the eye socket, with a cord
 attached worn around the neck in case of falling?
 
 From my limited reading of Regency novels, I seem to remember a thing called
 a "quizzing glass".  Is this the one on a handle?  Or is any single lens a
 monacle? >>
 You're correct. I wasn't clear enough, I guess, but that's what I was trying 
to convey. From my understanding, there is no "single" glass on a stick, only 
two. The single eyepiece is usually on a cord.

I think a lorgnett and a quizzing glass may be the same thing. But I'm no 
expert on antique eyewear.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"The truth of it is, I have no shirt."
W. Shakespeare
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 17 18:18:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 19:28:56 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity (etc.) patterns
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

I have to make a 19th century lower class "slave dress" for a [lovely, 
wonderful] actress who is a size 20. I got a commercial pattern the 
appropriate size so I would have the generally correct shoulder slope & neck 
curve and etc, etc. As I sat there adjusting it with a double darted front & 
lowered armseye I thought about the Simplicity Elizabethan pattern & SCA. 

It seems like a good thing for beginners to have a pattern with the 
familiarities Simplicity can offer. Why not create a set of instructions for 
altering that pattern to a more correct cut for new [or old] SCA members who 
want to be more accurate? These would be very specific....for a single 
pattern Like.."The Official SCA Period Enhancement Instructions for 
Simplicity Pattern # XXX" and another for "Period Enhancement Instructions 
for Butterick Pattern # YYY". These could include a model in the unaltered 
gown & also the altered version with silhouette differences indicated. 
Perhaps a sheet on how to turn Simplicity pattern # XXX into a corset. By 
being exclusive to one pattern you can site pattern piece numbers or specific 
measurments....all manner of helpful reference points in the commercial 
pattern. I can't see why commercial pattern companies could object....as you 
have to by the pattern 1st. I also realize it would be a bit of work....and 
you'll notice I didn't volunteer.
Just a thought.
Has this been tried before?
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From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

(merouda wrote)

> After making a stamp
> with the design we want, we will stamp the sheet metal and then cut them
> out by hand.  Or, cut/stamp the discs and then stamp the design on them.
<snip>
> When we have done the job, I will post to the list with my new found knowlege.
 
I'm too impatient! ;-)  Can your friend tell you how to make the stamps
(dies?) for cutting the metal?  (Maybe she could email me offlist or you
could)

YIS
Sister Ed
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity (etc.) patterns
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


I have a recommendation. The Greater Bay Area chapter of the Costumer's Guild has dealt with this problem for some time. They have reviews of patterns with their comments about their authenticity and how useful they are, done by people who know what they're doing and have had a lot of experience in drafting of patterns as well as costumemaking. Their url is http://www.toreadors.com/costume/patterns/index.html
I would strongly recommend checking it out. BTW, this is a fellow guild chapter, but we have no claim to their work.
Carol<BR>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild<hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>Get your free @yahoo.com address at <a href="http://mail.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Mail</a>.<br>

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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 16:43:12 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > After making a stamp
> > with the design we want, we will stamp the sheet metal and then cut them
> > out by hand.  Or, cut/stamp the discs and then stamp the design on them.
> <snip>
> > When we have done the job, I will post to the list with my new found knowlege.
>
> I'm too impatient! ;-)  Can your friend tell you how to make the stamps
> (dies?) for cutting the metal?  (Maybe she could email me offlist or you
> could)

Sorry.  :)  She's at Pennsic.  :)  Just to clarify, we aren't making the dies for
cutting the metal.  These should be available through a place that makes metal
working supplies, like a jewelry tool supply place.  We are making the design for
the brass stamp that will imprint the design onto the little disk.  It's possible
that one could also purchase design stamps from a jewelry supply house.  This Lady
is  a Laurel in our Society (SCA) with a modern degree in metalsmithing and I don't
get to do it the easy way.  You'll have to wait right along with me.  ;->

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)
Subject: Re: H-COST: comercial patterns
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 08/17/1999 12:48:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>mandrake@mypad.com writes:
>
><<  Pictures make things much more simple.
>  >>
>
>Janet Arnold is full of pictures [or drawings....more accurate than drawings
>on commercial pattern envelopes!] that show exactly how things look[ed] when
>made up. And as far as figuring yardages...I always end up with about a yard
>& a half over when I use commercial estaminets [which is OK...but I can
>figure it that accurately myself.] The only advantage I can see from a
>commercial pattern is the instructions for exactly how to put it together.
>[That's not a small advantage!]

It's a huge advantage for people who are inexperienced.  Plus, everything
is the right size (more or less).  Some people have little spacial
intelligence and find that scale drawings are completely incomprehensible.
Those people need the patterns premarked, a drawing on how to lay them on
the fabric, and how to assemble it.  Remember, not everyone has the same
skills.  I have friends who could sculpt a statue or draw or the outfit,
but couldn't even begin to sew it.

Most people on this list probably have plenty of experience and have a
natural (or learned) spacial sense.  Let's face it, these patterns are not
designed for experienced costumers.  They are primarilly for the public at
large.  I'm excited to see these costumes being made more accesible to
non-sewers/beginning sewers.  This will help new people get involved.

Personally, I have no spacial sense.  I have to adapt just about everything
from something else.  If I did not have a friend give my a basic
elizabethan pattern to start from, I'd still be making cotehardies from the
Simplicity majorette pattern.  (That was the best anyone could offer on
commercial patterns back then).  I wish they had these when I first
started!

Karolee J Smiley
Kaitlin MacPherson


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity (etc.) patterns
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>It seems like a good thing for beginners to have a pattern with the 
>familiarities Simplicity can offer. Why not create a set of instructions for 
>altering that pattern to a more correct cut for new [or old] SCA members who 
>want to be more accurate? These would be very specific....for a single 
>pattern Like.."The Official SCA Period Enhancement Instructions for 
>Simplicity Pattern # XXX" and another for "Period Enhancement Instructions 
>for Butterick Pattern # YYY". 

This is exactly what I'm planning to do!  Although I wasn't going to try to
label it "The Official SCA Version", if you know that organization you know
that that is unlikely in the extreme.

I plan to do this on my Web site, with suggested changes for the Simplicity
"wench" pattern, the new Elizabethan, and any others I have time and the
inclination for.  

I'm not sure when I'll get to it, as I'm finding that Web design, like
costuming, always takes much more time than planned.  But it's the only
thing I've ever found that's as much fun as costuming...well, that I can do
with the kids watching, that is.  

Margo

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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re:Irish leine..bag sleeves?
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 23:48:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I can't cite Web sources for these particular pictures.  I
have looked, but can't find the ones I saw with bag sleeves
from those books.  All three books taken together show a
pretty complete picture of the evolution of the garment from
Roman times forward--it is hypothesized by these
authors/researchers to have resembled Roman attire during
those days of the Roman occupation, and it goes through many
iterations over the centuries, ending up as this shirt with
the bag sleeves in the 16th century.  I suspect that only
the more Anglified Irish wore leines with bag sleeves, and
that earlier versions of the leine coexisted in the same
century among the wild Irish. Henry McClintock and Mairead
Dunlevy are probably an ILL request for most of us--they
were for me--but they are treasures.  Dunbar adds little in
the text, but includes some other period pictures to help
round out the information.  I probably wrote part of the
long interchange of messages on the subject Margo has
offered to share with you.  I no longer have them, but I
wrote them with all three reference books in my lap and
checked each detail with the books before posting them.
They will be more accurate than anything further I can cull
from memory. There just aren't that many surviving period
pictures, so once you have the three reference books in
front of you, you should have no problem finding the
evidence in them yourself. I may have actually cited page
reference numbers to Margo at the time.  I should have also
cited the Pakenham's widely available gem of a paperback,
containing transcriptions of actual primary sources, Irish
writings and pictures over 800 years.

Dunlevy, Mairead.  Dress in Ireland,  New York: Holmes &
Meier, 1989.  ISBN 0-8419-1269-6. (Irish Collection, Logue
Library, Chestnut Hill College, Philadelphia 19118)

McClintock, H. F.  Old Irish & Highland Dress, With Notes on
the Isle of Man, 1949(?) and 1950, my reference is
incomplete here, was it Dundalgen Press, just outside of
Dublin?.

Pakenham, Thomas and Valerie.  Dublin, A Traveller's
Companion, Great Britian: Constable and Company, and New
York: Atheneum, Macmillan Publishing Company, 1988. ISBN
0-689-70741-X Memorial Library of Radnor 914.18 PAKENHAM.
Don't miss this very fun and wonderful period source.

Dunbar, again sorry, I am missing this citation.

Surveying the growing on-line collections of British
libraries and museums in so intriguing.  Some WebPages of
interest, but not  directly applicable to the above topic:

The British Library's CD ROM of incunabula, printed images
from 1400-1500
http://www.bl.uk/collections/epc/hoinc.html#IISTC . Clipping
off the end of this URL and travelling around the Website
will yeild images of the first dated printed book 8th
Century Chinese text and accompanying image, various
Psalters, and the immense quantities of simialr materials
noted held at the library makes the heart ache ....
Oxford University started their digitizing project with
their Celtic manuscripts here: http://image.ox.ac.uk/.
Beautiful!!!

8th Century Book of Kells: http://www.tcd.ie/kells1.gif,
http://www.tcd.ie/kells2.gif, http://www.tcd.ie/kells3.gif
Note mantle, robe, neckline, and shoes on #1.  If the
embroidered multicolored garments of the Irish looked
anything like the designs on #2, then WOW, and #3 well, just
more incredible dedign inspiration.

http://www.ucc.ie/celt/list.html has Celtic texts on line.
*Annals of the Four Masters* gives a history of the Irish
race from almost the begining of the world, noting precise
dates for the first use of purple and blue dyes, wearing of
certain colors by people in different classes, wearing
multicolored costumes, wearing gold chains around the neck,
all before Christ, then wearing transparent colored gems,
etc, all 4,000 + pages, author unknown. Not sure what this
is, but it's superb folklore in any event.

Straying very far off out original subject here.

Hope H. Dunlap




> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Liz /cozit
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 12:41 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re:Irish leine..bag sleeves?
>
>
>
> -Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > - -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> >
> > Drawings and watercolors of the 16th Century show the
leine
> > with true bag sleeves--very much period. The drawstring
> > sleeve is something else, not to be confused with the
> > traditional bag sleeve.  The drawstring sleeve may be
just
> > modern "American Celtic."   If you look at the few
available
> > drawings, sculptures, and paintings of leines through
about
> > 8 centuries, you will see that the leine changed shape.
The
> > bag sleeve of the 16th Century shows the influence of
> > fashions elsewhere at the time.  H. L. McClintock and
Dunbar
> > and Dunlevy contain reproductions of the primary source
> > material, but I don't have them now, so can't specify
page
> > numbers.
>
> Have you come across any of these pictures on the web?
I'm truly
> interested, but so far I haven't found any pictures that
> don't look like
> they could be just *very* full sleeves,rectangular,
gathered
> normally at
> top and bottom.
>
> > -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> >
> >By the way, for the "bag sleeve," I believe it was
cartridge
> >pleated or otherwise gathered into the shoulder, with a
slit
> >in the front of the sleeve at the inside of the elbow for
> >the arm to come out.  The rest of the sleeve hung down
> >behind the forearm and could be used as a pocket.
>
>
> The other question...is you mention finding a picture that
shows the
> forearm portion of the sleeve hanging down.  Do you
remember what that
> picture was (or where about you saw it)?  Are you sure it
was
> the leine
> and not the oversleeve (I've seen a couple of pictures
where the leine
> was pushed up and the sleeve of the overgarment was
hanging, at least
> partially.
>
>
> Honestly, I'm not doubting that you've seen these, but I
haven't come
> across them yet, and I'm interested in seeing as many
> relative pictures
> as I can before scissors meet the fabric.  Having formed a
> few opinions
> about the supposedly authentic patterns out there (and
Margo's story
> about how they came about sounds believable), I'm trying
to
> check out as
> many pictures as I can to form my own opinion of how I
want to make my
> leine....and I've got to get that done before I can fit
the bodice of
> the dress....
>
>
> Thanks for the info!
> -Elisabeth
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Message-ID: <003601bee939$1a5469e0$12d2fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 22:18:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>   The closest thing I have seen documented was a Roman sleeve.  It had a
>>circular piece that the ends of the bagged sleeve were pleated onto,
except
>>for the top of the circle. (Open for your hand to come out, of course.)
>>
>I can't seem to visualize this at all.  could you point me to a picture I
>could look at?
>
>Margo
>
I had a hard time explaining this and though that that might happen...
    I check out books from my college library and photocopy pictures that I
think might be of interest.  This particular one was rom a book called
'Period Costume for the Stage and Screen.'  The top of the page reads,
'Pattern Sheet No. 31  Sleeve 2--"The Adoration of the Magi"  If you have
the book, by some slim chance, it is on page 163. Unfortunately, I never
wrote down a publisher, author or date.
    It is a huge, wide sleeve and where it hangs, under your elbow, it is
pleated onto a decorative circular trim.  It actually somewhat looks like
something they would have used on a foreign planet in the show 'Star Trek.'
;)
Ah Ha!   In that caption it is quoted as seen in the painting of 'the
Adoration of the Magi' by Domenico Veneziano.  It then goes on to briefly
descibe a velvet doublet, etc. All very grand...

    Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Simplicity (etc.) patterns
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 22:32:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
>
>The patterns actually *do* cost the stores more than the $.99 they sell
>them for.  But they're a "Loss item"...get people into the store for
>something they'll lose a bit of money on...but then make it up in the
>fabric they'll need to buy for it, the notions...and anything else that
>we just can't resist in the stores.


Absolutely!  However, if the markup is the average/standard of 50%, that
means that they possibly are only losing about $5.00 a pattern.  Considering
that Period Patterns retail at about $25.00, these patterns are very cheap.
That is what I meant.
   Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 00:29:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 10:37:51 -0700
From: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Sewing Machine Care and Feeding
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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>



-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Hi!  Sorta off-topic question here, but with the wide array of experience and
connections that are on the list, it seemed a good place to ask.  I've recently
acquired a "National Two Spool" treadle sewing machine.  I didn't intend it to
be my full-time, regular use machine, but just rather a toy or for while
watching TV.  I didn't really check it out all that much before I brought it
home (hey, it was free) and so now have a problem.  It's missing its throat
plate and I don't know if or where I could find a replacement.  My local repair
shop has no clue, either.  The mechanics turn smoothly now that they've been
WD-40'd and I've found drive belts at Newark Dressmaking Supply, making the
throat plate my only obstacle to a functioning treadle machine.  Any
suggestions?

Thanks!
Jen

Dear Jen

Please do not use WD-40 on the lovely machine.  WD-40 is a short-term lubricant
designed to coat metal.  It works just fine in areas where there is no friction
like a hinge.  When it's heated, like from the friction of a sewing machine, it
can change to something like a varnish, and can damage the metal of your
machine.  For a sewing machine you have to use Mineral Oil.  Not "Three-in-one"
oil or anything else that comes in a spray can just plain Mineral Oil, which
you can buy at any Industrial Sewing Machine shop.   Anything else and you are
asking for trouble.   Also when cleaning your machine do not blow into it using
your mouth, this is the same as spitting into it.  Use a vacuum cleaner or a
hair dryer set on low.

Closing the Big Book and getting out of the pulpit.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 00:31:49 1999
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Subject: H-COST: GSACG Web Page
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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

> To all the Members of the list - Hello!
>
>  I am very happy and proud to announce the launch of the Greater Sacramento
> Area Costumers' Guild's web page.  Better known as "The Fashioners of Fancy",
> we are a branch of the International Costumers' Guild.  We cover most any
> part of Californian north of the Bay Area  (I think, if I am stepping on
> someone's toes please let me know).

     http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/GSACG/GSACG_index.htm

>
> Please check out our site, it is still a work in progress, but what web site
> is ever finished.  I hope you enjoy the site, and I look forward to hearing
> your comments.
>
> Yours truly,
>
> Stephen Bergdahl Vice President and Web Master
>

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Subject: H-COST: Civil War Dress
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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

>

To all the list members

Hello, I need some help.  I have been asked to design and make an 1850 to 1860
maternity dress for a Civil War friend of mine.  The women who will be wearing
it plays a soldier's wife visiting her husband between battles.  Her husband
was a shopkeeper before the war.  So she tends to wear dress that are a little
more upper class.  Better than a Farm Wife's but not what one would call upper
class.  Squarely middle class for the period.

While I am familiar with the "Wrapper" style, two long panels gathered to the
shoulder seams to form the front of the bodice and skirt.  She would like
something that has more of a two piece look with a pointed front that still
lets out as she expands.

While the design and construction are no problem, the documentation is giving
me fits.  If this was for a play or just a Halloween costume I would have no
problem.  But I don't want to turn this dress loose on the world without
documentation.  There are enough strange things running around various Living
History Sites whose documentation is limited to, "oh I read about is
somewhere."

 What little I can find about maternity clothes is limited to the "Workerswomen
Guide" and some plates in a few Godies which describe the wrapper style.  Now
if the Wrapper style was the only style worn, then I will tell her it's that or
she can find someone else to make it for her.  But I just don't see there being
just one style.

 Now I know that having a baby was not something you talked about at that time,
but there must be more written about it than this.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated, or just some new ideas as to were to look.

Your Stephen Bergdahl


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 00:46:23 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:18 PM 8/17/99 -0700, Michelle wrote:
[snip]
>I had a hard time explaining this and though that that might happen...
>    I check out books from my college library and photocopy pictures that I
>think might be of interest.  This particular one was rom a book called
>'Period Costume for the Stage and Screen.'  The top of the page reads,
>'Pattern Sheet No. 31  Sleeve 2--"The Adoration of the Magi"  If you have
>the book, by some slim chance, it is on page 163. Unfortunately, I never
>wrote down a publisher, author or date.

I thing that you are referring to Jean Hunnisett's book on Medieval women's
clothing (I have two of her books covering 1500-1800 and 1800-1909). My
books are published by Players Press, Inc., P.O. Box 1132, Studio City, CA
91614-0132 (re-published in 1991). I know that the medieval book is around
because it was sent to me by mistake when I ordered the two I now have<g>.
Warning, though very useful, they are pricey, about $50 each, IIRC.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:18 PM 8/17/99 -0700, Michelle wrote:
[snip]
>I had a hard time explaining this and though that that might happen...
>    I check out books from my college library and photocopy pictures that I
>think might be of interest.  This particular one was rom a book called
>'Period Costume for the Stage and Screen.'  The top of the page reads,
>'Pattern Sheet No. 31  Sleeve 2--"The Adoration of the Magi"  If you have
>the book, by some slim chance, it is on page 163. Unfortunately, I never
>wrote down a publisher, author or date.

I thing that you are referring to Jean Hunnisett's book on Medieval women's
clothing (I have two of her books covering 1500-1800 and 1800-1909). My
books are published by Players Press, Inc., P.O. Box 1132, Studio City, CA
91614-0132 (re-published in 1991). I know that the medieval book is around
because it was sent to me by mistake when I ordered the two I now have<g>.
Warning, though very useful, they are pricey, about $50 each, IIRC.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

 _________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Here's the terminology, drawn from _Spectacles, Lorgnettes and Monocles_, by 
D.C. Davidson (Shire Album #227)
Quizzer or quizzing glass--"more popular than scissors [i.e. conventional 
earpiece] spectacles in Britain during the eighteenth and nineteenth 
centuries. At first in the form of a small round lens mountied in a gold 
ring with a short handle [on the bottom of the lens]...later they were made 
of silver. Both quizzers and monocles were worn on a cord or ribbon..."
Monocle--"developed from the quizzer by cutting the handle length down to a 
simple loop just large enough to take a ribbon or cord, so considerably 
reducing the weight and making it possible for the practised user to grip it 
in the orbit of the eye, thus leaving both hands free...caricurists's symbol 
of the 'great English aristocrat' from about 1800."
Lorgnette--two lenses joined by a bridge, which fold into a case which also 
serves as a handle to hold the lenses in front of the eyes. Often associated 
with the "dowager duchess". Introduced in the early nineteenth century.
Pince nez--nose-pinching spectacles without handle or earpieces. Regained 
popularity after a hiatus of over 200 years in the last quarter of the 
nineteenth century.

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 10:51:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:02:27 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
In-Reply-To: <19990818143348Z52352-15163+51@smtp1.telusplanet.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

here is a url of what the pattern looks like
http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0679ren.JPG

it is being sold on ebay right now.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 11:43:03 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:57:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Actually, the name of the book is what I wrote below. "Period Costume for
the Stage and Screen"
   I remember this book as being one of those that gave you one or two
examples from a time period and then on to the next period. This one was
earlier than 1500.   Also, this was with something else that was for men.
   Maybe the book you have does picture the same sleeve. Quite possible!
    Thats all I know...
    Michelle

>At 10:18 PM 8/17/99 -0700, Michelle wrote:
>[snip]
>>I had a hard time explaining this and though that that might happen...
>>    I check out books from my college library and photocopy pictures that
I
>>think might be of interest.  This particular one was from a book called
>>'Period Costume for the Stage and Screen.'  The top of the page reads,
>>'Pattern Sheet No. 31  Sleeve 2--"The Adoration of the Magi"  If you have
>>the book, by some slim chance, it is on page 163. Unfortunately, I never
>>wrote down a publisher, author or date.
>
>I thing that you are referring to Jean Hunnisett's book on Medieval women's
>clothing (I have two of her books covering 1500-1800 and 1800-1909). My
>books are published by Players Press, Inc., P.O. Box 1132, Studio City, CA
>91614-0132 (re-published in 1991). I know that the medieval book is around
>because it was sent to me by mistake when I ordered the two I now have<g>.
>Warning, though very useful, they are pricey, about $50 each, IIRC.
>
>Joan Jurancich
>Sacramento, CA
>joanj@quiknet.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 11:49:40 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:02 AM 08/18/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>here is a url of what the pattern looks like

Wow, that's not bad at all!  It should be fairly easy to write up the
instructions for modifying it.  thanks!

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 12:10:13 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:25:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

It is pretty but, I am not sure about those sleeves. Something just doesn't
look right.
  Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 9:05 AM
Subject: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>here is a url of what the pattern looks like
>http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0679ren.JPG
>
>it is being sold on ebay right now.
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 12:18:26 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: lrish liene
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:23:38 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37d9eaf8.221726974@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:57:49 -0700, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>Actually, the name of the book is what I wrote below. "Period Costume for
>the Stage and Screen"

It is the same book. It is sitting in front of me. It has a blue
cover, showing a costume sketch of a woman in an orange-toned gown,
including swatches.
The full title is:
Period Costume for Stage and Screen, Pattersn for Women's Dress,
Medieval - 1600
By Jean Hunnisett

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 13:57:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:07:15 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
In-Reply-To: <002801bee99e$9e6cfd40$956afea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

It is not a problem for anyone with a good picture of the real thing to
just fix the sleeves. But as mentioned before by EVERYONE else on the list
it is a good beginners pattern or a pattern that can be altered easily for
those that are not able to create their own patterns even though they have
been in the group for a long time. :)

I do not like the sleeves myself. :)

I just got back from my hancocks and they did not have this pattern but
they had the celtic one. Not very celtic but nice just the same, it is
more river danceish folksy.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 18 Aug 1999, Michelle wrote:

> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:25:07 -0700
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> It is pretty but, I am not sure about those sleeves. Something just doesn't
> look right.
>   Michelle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 9:05 AM
> Subject: H-COST: Elizabetha commercial pattern
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: ches@io.com
> >
> >here is a url of what the pattern looks like
> >http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0679ren.JPG
> >
> >it is being sold on ebay right now.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >F. Havas
> >ches@io.com
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 15:36:49 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <sewingbusinesses@onelist.com>, "Sewing" <sewing@onelist.com>,
        <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>, "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
        <costumes@onelist.com>
Subject: H-COST: New pattern site and message board
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 16:32:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>


Hi All!

First I apologize to anyone on all of these lists that gets 5 copies of this
message, but it really applied to all.

As many know, I had decided to start a pattern page on one of my websites.
The area is up and I'm quickly filling in the details. Allot of patterns are
detailed in the index. And though all of them have live links, the details
on many are just being filled in, however, I've also gotten many of the
photo pages up, so if you go to a particular pattern, you may still be able
to view the photos. I'm hoping by the end of the week to have the patterns
listed all complete.

This turned out to be much bigger than I thought! For now I've just got the
patterns listed by company and approximate release date (so the newest
patterns are at the end of the listing). I'm eventually going to switch to a
database with search capabilities so that you can search for just "medieval"
or "civil war" costume pattern reviews. I'd also like to get up as many
types of commercially available patterns as possible. So if you are
interested in a time period not mentioned, and have a scanner that you could
scan the front picture and the inside sketch to send to me along with the
pattern company and number, I'll do the rest and get it listed.

I'd like to encourage folks to send in critiques about  the patterns they've
used so that I can add a permanent listing of what us sewers think, what
we've changed to make the pattern better etc.

Lastly, I've added a message board where I hope folks will feel free to do
anything from discuss needed help with certain patterns, to setting up get
togethers with other costumers, to listing sales at stores. The message
board is not in a password protected area and can be found at:

http://unicorncastle.net/board/index.html

If you want to visit the pattern area, for now it's password protected so
that copyrights are protected, until I can get permission for everything.
You can obtain the login name and password by sending email to:

pattern_password@unicorncastle.net

A direct link to the site is at:
http://unicorncastle.net/wardrobe/patterns/index.html  the main site is
located at:
http://unicorncastle.net/index.html

If you have any ideas for expanding or improving this area...please let me
know!

Thanks everyone!

~Kyna






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 15:57:02 1999
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Underpants
In-Reply-To: <l03130301b3dbfde8f898@[208.225.99.111]>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Sun, 15 Aug 1999 lilinah@grin.net wrote:

> There have been discussions previously on the existence of Medieval women's
> undergarments, particularly underpants.
> Today i was in a local second-hand book store rifling the Art Book section
> and came across...
> A 15th century women taking off or putting on what sure look like
> under-drawers. She already has on her chemise and dress (pardon the inexact
> terminology here).
> It was on a wood carving on a misericord from "Saint-Cermin, the Church of
> Saint-Saturnin, formerly at Saint-Chamart"
> ... 
> The carving showed a young woman sitting or squatting and pulling on or off
> what sure appear to be underpants. Details of exact shape and cut are hard
> (or impossible) to discern, but the garment has two foot-holes, and from
> the carved shape, it seems to have some length as well (the body and legs
> are rather bunched up but appear substantial). They are definitely not
> "panties", but just how long the legs and body are is hard to determine.

Sorry for the delayed reply; I've just plugged the computer back in after
a cross-country move (please note my change of address) and spotted this
in the pile of stacked-up messages.

Did the book have any description or analysis of this particular carving? 
Misericordes often illustrate sayings or proverbs, and also frequently
make fun of people/institutions/society.  For that reason, we have to be
especially careful with misericordes to consider whether an image might be
intended to make a joke or deliberately depict a nonsense scene.

I remember seeing a misericorde similar to this, possibly the same one --
I can't say till I unpack my books and photos, which may be weeks or
months from now.  The one I saw was commonly interpreted as illustrating
the idea of a woman "wearing the pants" in the family.  Sex role reversals
are not uncommon in misericordes; I've also seen one that shows a woman
beating a man. Similar themes involve spoofs of schoolmasters/students and
priests/flock. (I saw one at Ely that showed a fox in a bishop's mitre
preaching to a flock of geese.)

That doesn't mean this carving isn't a source for women's underpants, but
a straightforward picture of a woman dressing wouldn't be as likely a
topic for a misericorde as a proverb illustration that stands tradition on
its head. And if pants (of any sort) were indeed seen as strictly male
clothing, then the satiric meaning would have been perfectly clear to the
medieval viewer. 

To be sure, I'd want to find other misericordes from the original site. 
Themes often come in batches. If there were a series of proverbs or
role-reversals done at the same time for the same church, then I'd see
that as pretty clear support for the proverb interpretation. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 16:40:48 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

One thing i've noticed, especially among the recent spate of Medieval-oid
and Renaissance-ish patterns, is the dirth of tolerable patterns for men.
While the patterns for women vary from wretched to workable, the men's
patterns all seem uniformly horrid.

Is this because it's so hard to get "normal" men to dress up? Or is it just me?

Lilinah
who is glad to have a male friend who enjoys going into the fabric store
and carressing the fabrics


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 17:11:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:24:46 -0400
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.06 [en] (Win98; I)
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Subject: H-COST: American Civil War era maternity wear
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

- -Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

> I have been asked to design and make an 1850 to 1860 maternity dress
> for a Civil War friend of mine....Squarely middle class for the
period.

> ...She would like something that has more of a two piece look with a
pointed
> front that still lets out as she expands.

I recently wrote an article for The Citizen's Companion on maternity
wear during the CW period so the information I found is still fairly
fresh.
A middle class woman probably would have different garments for at home
and public wear. She would probably have worn a wrapper type garment
while at home, but more likely would have worn a saque and petticoat
(skirt) out in public. A saque is the direct descendant of the short
gown, but without any waist ties. Past Patterns offers a Saque and
Petticoat pattern, but the saque runs quite large from all reports and
is rather too short. From all reports though it is quite easy to modify
it to fit (I've not used it myself) The choice of fabrics would be the
determining factor of social class wearing it. There is plenty of
evidence for wearing this type of garment while pregnant.

An alternative garment which seems to have also been worn, of which I've
seen two originals so far, is a cross between a wrapper and a dress. It
is cut rather similar to a wrapper in front, but with drawstrings inside
and a semi detached lining in the upper body. The back of the dress
would be fitted and flat lined like a regular dress, but the front of
the lining would only be attached at the sides, armscye and shoulder
seams. The lining would be fitted in front, but cut high over the
abdomen for obvious reasons.
The drawstrings would be let out as the woman's waist expanded. A
straight belt could be worn over the drawstring gathers, at least until
it starts to emphasis rather than minimize her waist line...

I've not seen any evidence for pointed waist style maternity wear in any
of my research. This is not to say it wasn't done, I've just not seen
any evidence for it...

I hope this helps.

Glenna Jo Christen
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 17:31:23 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

. So if you are
>interested in a time period not mentioned, and have a scanner that you could
>scan the front picture and the inside sketch to send to me along with the
>pattern company and number,

Have you checked with the pattern companies on this?  I think you may find
yourself getting some rather stern letters from lawyers.

It's one thing to post reviews of patterns.  It's quite another to duplicate
their photos and artwork without permission.

Margo Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 17:33:30 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Sorry, I hit the send button too soon by mistake.


>If you want to visit the pattern area, for now it's password protected so
>that copyrights are protected, until I can get permission for everything.
>You can obtain the login name and password by sending email to:
>

I don't understand how making it "passprotected" protects the copyright.
I'd sure like to know if it does, it would make some of my future plans easier.

Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 17:35:29 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Civil War Dress
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>



-According to Gone With the Wind, they just raised the hoop. Along with
drawstrings, it might be enough.
Carol
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 17:52:18 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>
>>>   The closest thing I have seen documented was a Roman sleeve.  It had a
>>>circular piece that the ends of the bagged sleeve were pleated onto,
>except
>>>for the top of the circle. (Open for your hand to come out, of course.)
((snip)

  This particular one was rom a book called
>'Period Costume for the Stage and Screen.'  The top of the page reads,
>'Pattern Sheet No. 31  Sleeve 2--"The Adoration of the Magi"  If you have
>the book, by some slim chance, it is on page 163. Unfortunately, I never
>wrote down a publisher, author or date.
>    It is a huge, wide sleeve and where it hangs, under your elbow, it is
>pleated onto a decorative circular trim.  It actually somewhat looks like
>something they would have used on a foreign planet in the show 'Star Trek.'
>;)
>Ah Ha!   In that caption it is quoted as seen in the painting of 'the
>Adoration of the Magi' by Domenico Veneziano.  It then goes on to briefly
>descibe a velvet doublet, etc. All very grand...
>
I just got back from the library, and now have a picture.  It's a pretty
sleeve, but  a large bagged sleeve with a pleated cap, pleated into a
circular attachement below the arm opening, and belonging to a velvet
doublet of the 15th century, painted by an Italian and depicting clothing
worn by an allegorical, foreign monarch, is just not close enough for me to
accept it as any kind of documentation for the 16th century pleated-along
the arm  leine sleeves we're discussing.

I know you're not calling it documentation, just visually similar, but
count on it, someone out there has seen this picture and decided its proof.  

Margo

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Hope is right: was: lrish liene
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Hope, I've looked at sources, and you're right, the liene did have bag
sleeves, if we take that as meaning the "cuff" area was sewn up to form a
bag with hand opening.  

What about the gathers or pleats along the length of the arm? If they're not
there, where do you think they are?   On the sleeve to body seam, providing
fullness in the sleeve, or along the shoulder line to provide fullness in
the body, or what?  We know there were pleats, where ARE the darn things???

Oh, for  a time machine...of course, if we had one, someone would go to 16th
century Ireland and say,"Hey guys, how about we put DRAWSTRINGS in these
things?"

Margo

 

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 03:47 PM 08/18/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
>-According to Gone With the Wind, they just raised the hoop. Along with
>drawstrings, it might be enough.

It all depends on how the woman's built and how she carries.  Raising my
hoop might have worked...if I'd raised it to armpit level.

My solution was the skirt and saque.  I found it neccesary to use suspenders
to keep the skirt up, but mounting it on a camisole would also work.  You
could put slits in the camisole to make it work for breastfeeding afterward.

 Leave a large hem, because as that belly grows the hem will probably need
lengthening.  Be sure to consider the weight of fabrics, your friend will
feel 10-15 degrees hotter than normal, and heat prostration in pregnancy is
dangerous.  She'll want a pair of split-crotch drawers, which you can adapt
from a maternity pants pattern.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 18:14:20 1999
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-Poster: rengarb@webtv.net

This is Michelle, at Mom's...
   I have the book in front of me.  I was mistaken.  They aren't roman.
They are from a painting c. 1440.  
   It is from Jean Hunnisett's book, "period costume for the stage and
screen."
  Sorry for all of the confusion.  I hope this clears it up now!
   Michelle
(mandrake@mypad.com)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 18:18:39 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 18 Aug 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Oh, for  a time machine...of course, if we had one, someone would go to 16th
> century Ireland and say,"Hey guys, how about we put DRAWSTRINGS in these
> things?"
> 
If we had a time machine you could just go back and buy one....now that 
would be authenticity *grin*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908182244.PAA23636@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Copyright WAS: New pattern site and message board
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:10:43 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>


>
> I don't understand how making it "passprotected" protects the copyright.
> I'd sure like to know if it does, it would make some of my future plans
easier.
>
> Margo
>


It doesn't. But the email your receive when you ask for the password tells
you that by using the password you are agreeing not to violate the
copyrights of any companies or individuals whose information is contained on
my site for reference and education. I think technically I can use the
information for those purposes anyway, but I wanted to ask for permission
anyway and this is my method of putting the site up prior to being given
permission. ::shrugs:: I'm not a lawyer and this may have holes all over,
but it seemed like a good idea at this time.

~Kyna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 20:54:55 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Civil War Dress
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 22:06:19 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

The Folkwear Prairie dress would probably be right for your
character in 1850 -1865.  Use an apron to snug the waist or
wear it loose.

In Costume in Detail by Nancy Bradfield, she shows a very
casual maternity dress for at home (late maternity--its
voluminoius) from 1825 - 35.  Fabric at the front is
gathered into a very high yolk oncly a few inches deep,
about 4 inches above the bust point.  At the back, the back
flares slightly from the shoulders, completely unfitted to
the back, and the gathers in the skirt attach to it at hip
level.

The maternity jacket and top from 1895 in the same book show
the detail you describe, with lacings inserted at the side
front behind the jacket panels to let out the brides going
away ourfit for maternity use. Its smoothly fitting front
panel mimics a vest and the loose jacket bodice pieces  hide
the lacings to let the bodice out to fit the body.

The caracao of 1770-1775 fastens in two layers at the front,
and the front edges of the front openings are turned back
and stitched temporarily, hook and eyes added to make it
close smoothly over the wearer's front.  As she grows, the
hooks and eyes are removed, more fabric transferred from the
inside "facings" to the outside , and the hooks and eyes
reinstalled.

The loose cotton house gown and the modifiable jacket seem
to be very long lived solutions to the challenge of
dressing a pregnant woman.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Stephen Bergdahl
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 1:42 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Civil War Dress
>
>
>
> -Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>
>
> >
>
> To all the list members
>
> Hello, I need some help.  I have been asked to design and
> make an 1850 to 1860
> maternity dress for a Civil War friend of mine.  The women
> who will be wearing
> it plays a soldier's wife visiting her husband between
> battles.  Her husband
> was a shopkeeper before the war.  So she tends to wear
dress
> that are a little
> more upper class.  Better than a Farm Wife's but not what
one
> would call upper
> class.  Squarely middle class for the period.
>
> While I am familiar with the "Wrapper" style, two long
panels
> gathered to the
> shoulder seams to form the front of the bodice and skirt.
> She would like
> something that has more of a two piece look with a pointed
> front that still
> lets out as she expands.
>
> While the design and construction are no problem, the
> documentation is giving
> me fits.  If this was for a play or just a Halloween
costume
> I would have no
> problem.  But I don't want to turn this dress loose on the
> world without
> documentation.  There are enough strange things running
> around various Living
> History Sites whose documentation is limited to, "oh I
read about is
> somewhere."
>
>  What little I can find about maternity clothes is limited
to
> the "Workerswomen
> Guide" and some plates in a few Godies which describe the
> wrapper style.  Now
> if the Wrapper style was the only style worn, then I will
> tell her it's that or
> she can find someone else to make it for her.  But I just
> don't see there being
> just one style.
>
>  Now I know that having a baby was not something you
talked
> about at that time,
> but there must be more written about it than this.  Any
help
> would be greatly
> appreciated, or just some new ideas as to were to look.
>
> Your Stephen Bergdahl
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 18 20:54:56 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Hope is right: was: lrish liene
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:25:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I can't answer with certainty without those darn period
drawings to refer to.  But, going on memory, I think I
identified about 7 or 8 different style of leine between
about 800 and 1600 AD.  There were variations based on
quantity of fabric used (what the wearer could afford
probably) and style consciousness within the same time
period ---- as well as an evolution through the entire
period.  Not every leine had pleats.  Poor people had no
pleats, judging by the drawings.  Those that did wear pleats
clearly had different cuts (leine patterns, if you will).
Not every leine had pleats along the top of the sleeve.
Some had pleats into the neckline.  Some had pleats into the
"armscye," sholder seam, although it wasn't a curved but a
straight armscye until very late.  Others had pleats
starting at the neckline and going all the way down the
sleeve.  In some cases the arm came out the cuff, and in
other cases, there was a slit on the front of the arm at the
elbow for the arm to extend from, maybe as an option for
convenience.  Many appeared to be broomsticked, ie pleated
to a pole or wadded and tied to dry to achieve the pleats--I
swear there might well have been a fixed tape on the
underside or a drawsting to stabilize all that fabric in
place on some.  I am not one of those people who say the
drawstring didn't exist.  I'm just saying there was a wide
variety of cuts, and there wasn't one architypal leine true
across the entire time period, and the drawstring if it
existed could olny have occured on the fraction with the
pleats from neckline to elbow or cuff.  Other style
variations include the front opening. During some periods,
all the leine seem to open all the way down the front and
wrap around, closing in front like a bathrobe with a belt.
At other times, there was just a slit at the front neckline
to allow the head through.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 7:11 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Hope is right: was: lrish liene
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> Hope, I've looked at sources, and you're right, the liene
did have bag
> sleeves, if we take that as meaning the "cuff" area was
sewn
> up to form a
> bag with hand opening.
>
> What about the gathers or pleats along the length of the
arm?
> If they're not
> there, where do you think they are?   On the sleeve to
body
> seam, providing
> fullness in the sleeve, or along the shoulder line to
provide
> fullness in
> the body, or what?  We know there were pleats, where ARE
the
> darn things???
>
> Oh, for  a time machine...of course, if we had one,
someone
> would go to 16th
> century Ireland and say,"Hey guys, how about we put
> DRAWSTRINGS in these
> things?"
>
> Margo
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 09:52:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:06:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Slightly OT: Black Evening Gown
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

This is slightly OT and I apologize to anyone I have
annoyed...

I know several of you have kids... I don't know how
old, but if any of your daughters are of the high
school/prom age or if you yourself go to events where
evening wear is required, take a look at my e-bay
auction at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=149473569

Thanks for the interruption... I now return you to
your regularly scheduled discussion.

Sarah


__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 11:23:51 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: h-costume-digest V4 #492
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 12:33:17 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

> - - -Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>
> 
> > I have been asked to design and make an 1850 to 1860 maternity dress
> > for a Civil War friend of mine....Squarely middle class for the
> period.
> 
> > ...She would like something that has more of a two piece look with a
> pointed front that still lets out as she expands.
> 
In the Amazon Drygoods catalog there is a #408 Period Impressions pattern --
Sacque Jacket.  It is described as an 1860's traveling jacket or maternity
top with instruction for maternity skirt.  It looks very much like a Godey
print I remember seeing, but it does not have a pointed front.  

Regarding a pointed front, I don't think it would be practical for most
pregnant women, because I would think it would go above the belly and would
begin pointing up and at an angle away from the body as the months rolled
along -- might end up looking like a bid or something sticking out : )
Great care was taken to cover/hide/camoflauge the condition of pregnancy
with various loose styles and draping.  When it got too noticeable, the
woman would be in her confinement at home or at a relative's home for
example, and did not go out in public until the baby came.

These were different times and I believe you will find little about being
pregnant which was actually written at the time.  In the Godey print, the
maternity outfit is just placed in with other figures casually.  The print
is owned by a friend and I don't have access to the text that would have
gone with it.

Just my opinions.  Connie Fairchild
Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 11:49:48 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

Charles Frederick Worth, the first modern courtiere, found great 
favor among his clientele for actually designing and discretely 
showing on live models(for the client to view only)maternity wear. 
I've not yet seen a surviving Worth maternity outfit--I'll bet most 
were remodeled, wore out, or were sold, thrown away, when most didn't 
realize the future worth of a surviving Worth product. (pun 
intended!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 12:36:45 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: maternity dresses
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:45:55 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I recently saw an 1890s maternity dress for sale in a vintage shop in
Richmond, VA.  It was hand made. The owner brought out an 1880s bodice to
show me of this wonderful fabric.  The vintage shop across the street sold
the bodice to him.  He told me, "You won't believe what happened to the
skirt."  The shop across the street sold the skirt to a lady who was having
her couch redone in the fabric.  Yes, the skirt had that much fabric in it.
:(  

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 


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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: Problem with chemise
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


Greetings all...

I'm making a very simple chemise (the one where you take 4 pieces of fabric,
snip the outter corners, and sew the corners, the up the 2 outside seams)
and I made the snips to short, and as such the armholes are too small to put
my arms through. what would be the simplest way to put in a  gusset or
smomething to make the arm hole bigger? Otherwise its a nice loose baggy
chemise! ARGH!

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 13:49:21 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I'm making a very simple chemise (the one where you take 4 pieces of fabric,
> snip the outter corners, and sew the corners, the up the 2 outside seams)
> and I made the snips to short, and as such the armholes are too small to put
> my arms through. what would be the simplest way to put in a  gusset or
> smomething to make the arm hole bigger? Otherwise its a nice loose baggy
> chemise! ARGH!

I guess what I'd do is this.  You say that you made the snips too short.  Well,
take that apart and make the snips bigger.  Sure you could put a gusset in too.
But if the problem is short snips, that's what I'd do, lengthen the snips.

Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 14:28:07 1999
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Subject: H-COST: 1/2 scale dress form/instructions
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-Poster: Ltondreau@aol.com

Where do I purchase a  1/2 scale dress form?  Is Superior any different from 
Wolf dress forms?  Are there other brands/companies we should be aware of?

I'd be interested in reading about the history of this interesting tool?  Any 
references out there? What about books/instructions concerning grading to 
full scale?

Cordial to all,

Luecella M. Tondreau
Designer, Patternmaker, Seamstress
 
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1/2 scale dress form/instructions
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> Where do I purchase a  1/2 scale dress form?  Is
> Superior any different from 
> Wolf dress forms?  Are there other brands/companies
> we should be aware of?


Call me silly, but what use is a 1/2 scale dress form?
 I'm sure I'm missing something.

sarah

__________________________________________________
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Subject: H-COST: those pattern numbers
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-Poster: ches@io.com

 hre is the picture of the 'celtic' one
http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0663ren.JPG

 the pattern number is simplicity 0663
the Elizabethan is simplicity 0679

They will both be in their own displays. The celtic one will be with the
ever after display on top of the pattern drawers and the Elizabethan one
will be with the holloween stand up one on the floor.

Good luck everyone, I hope you all find them!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1/2 scale dress form/instructions
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 20:02:55 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 19 Aug 1999 12:46:45 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Call me silly, but what use is a 1/2 scale dress form?
> I'm sure I'm missing something.

They are for draping out new patterns on a smaller, easier to handle
scale. Very useful if you are a prefessional designer.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm forwarding this from the SCA-West list.  Can someone help this lady?

>O.K, you guys, I need help!  From ms. printed in England in various
editions from the last decade of the fifteenth century to the first decade
of the sixteenth century, but from sources (mostly in Latin) from the 13th
century onward, and written by monks, whose basic uniform is a laundry bag
(i.e., not fashion wizards);
>
>the blessyd virgyn Marye appearyd to hym vysyvly in a whyte garment, that
lacked bothe sleues & lappes.  Than this monke meruayles and sayd to her, "
O moost swete Lady, why haue your vpper clothynge no sleues ne lappes?"
>
>
>>From the Peter Whiteford critical edition of They Myracles of Oure Lady,
ed from Wynkyn de Worde's edition (Heidelberg: Carl Winter
Universitatsverlag, 1990), 41.
>
>I translated "sleeves and collar," but I'm still a little confused by
"lappes."  It could refer to any collar, modesty panel or anything else that
was on a woman's garment (a woman of modesty and high estate) between 1200
and 1512.  Any good ideas?  (This is for the final draft of the dissertation
so it is time critical).  (Yeah, I know I could do this myself, but why
spend all that time when I have a mob of experts out there.)
>
>Dana/Maythen

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:27:17 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>  the pattern number is simplicity 0663
> the Elizabethan is simplicity 0679
>
> They will both be in their own displays. The celtic one will be with the
> ever after display on top of the pattern drawers and the Elizabethan one
> will be with the holloween stand up one on the floor.

The Ever After displays?  Is this the one that is quasi-Italian?  Or is
there some other pattern I don't know about?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: those pattern numbers
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-Poster: ches@io.com

The Italian ones. It is a very tiny display and may be hidden. They all
have Renaissance in bold letters on the top, the celtic one says Celtic in
bold letters and the other one says Elizabethan.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 19 Aug 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:27:17 -0700
> From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: those pattern numbers
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> >  the pattern number is simplicity 0663
> > the Elizabethan is simplicity 0679
> >
> > They will both be in their own displays. The celtic one will be with the
> > ever after display on top of the pattern drawers and the Elizabethan one
> > will be with the holloween stand up one on the floor.
> 
> The Ever After displays?  Is this the one that is quasi-Italian?  Or is
> there some other pattern I don't know about?
> 
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 14:07:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: WAS: [SCA-West]Research problem
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

I do not know what 'lappes' are, either, but the references I found, plus
Sir Maythen's are interesting.  If anyone knows, please write to me
post-haste with ref's so that Sir Maythen may put the final touches on her
Thesis.  Many, many thanks in a'vance!  -- Gra/inne
  Sir Maythen writes: Subject: [SCA-West]Research problem
>      the blessyd virgyn Marye appearyd to hym vysyvly in a whyte garment,
that
>lacked bothe sleues & lappes.  Than this monke meruayles and sayd to her, " O
>moost swete Lady, why haue your vpper clothynge no sleues ne lappes?"
>   From the Peter Whiteford critical edition of They Myracles of Oure
Lady, ed
>from Wynkyn de Worde's edition (Heidelberg: Carl Winter Universitatsverlag,
>1990), 41.
     I websurfing found:   From The alliterative "La morte d'Arthur", The
Thornton Ms., Folios 84v-94r:
3252: In a surcott of sylke selkouthely hewede,
3253: All with loyotour ouerlaide lowe to pe hemmes,
3254: And with ladily lappes the lenghe of a 3erde,
3255: And all redily reuersside with rebanes of golde;

Another, this time from "Piers Plowman":
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/a/apple044.html
Apple cookery is very early English: Piers Ploughman mentions 'all the povere
peple' who 'baken apples broghte in his lappes'
and the ever popular apple pie was no less esteemed in Tudor times than it is
to-day, only our ancestors had some predilections
in the matter of seasonings that might not now appeal to all of us, for they
put cinnamon and ginger in their pies and gave them a
lavish colouring of saffron.
 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Problem with chemise
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 99 17:16:32 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

Anya wrote,

>I'm making a very simple chemise (the one where you take 4 pieces of fabric,
>snip the outter corners, and sew the corners, the up the 2 outside seams)
>and I made the snips to short, and as such the armholes are too small to put
>my arms through. what would be the simplest way to put in a  gusset or
>smomething to make the arm hole bigger? Otherwise its a nice loose baggy
>chemise! ARGH!

     Don't lenghten the snips, add gussets. There is a 17thC Italian 
chemise in _Cut My Cote_, and it has gussets. Cut two squares, 10" on the 
side. From the armpit corner, open the seam 9" each way. Sew in the 
gussets.

     __________          __________
    I          I        I          I
    I          I        I          I
    I__________I________I__________I
            \  I        I  /
     gusset  \ I        I /  gusset
              \I        I/
               I        I
               I        I
               I        I
               I________I

     The drawing isn't perfect. When the chemise is flat, the gussets 
will be the same measurement on the top and the side.

     -Carol
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 14:07:16 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I'm no language expert, but I'll give it a whirl.

Margo asks for translation of:

> the blessyd virgyn Marye appearyd to hym vysyvly in a whyte garment, that
> lacked bothe sleues & lappes.  Than this monke meruayles and sayd to her,"
> O moost swete Lady, why haue your vpper clothynge no sleues ne lappes?"

"...the blessed Virgin Mary appeared to him visibly in a white garment that
lacked both sleeves and lap(pet)s. Then this monk marvels and said to her, 'Oh
most sweet Lady, why have your upper clothing no sleeves nor lap(pet)s?'..."

> I translated "sleeves and collar," but I'm still a little confused by
> "lappes."  It could refer to any collar, modesty panel or anything else
> that was on a woman's garment (a woman of modesty and high estate) between
> 1200 and 1512.  Any good ideas?  (This is for the final draft of the
> dissertation so it is time critical).  (Yeah, I know I could do this
> myself, but why spend all that time when I have a mob of experts out there.)

You have two choices, it appears. 'lap' is defined as "a : a loose overlapping
or hanging panel or flap esp. of a garment. b archaic : the skirt of a coat or
dress". 'lappet' was another term for the lap meaning "1: a fold of flap on a
garment or headdress". It came to mean the flaps that hang down from a bishops miter.

I'd bet on it being somewhat like the top of a chiton that hangs down covering
the chest.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 16:49:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Medieval Research question
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>You have two choices, it appears. 'lap' is defined as "a : a loose overlapping
>or hanging panel or flap esp. of a garment. b archaic : the skirt of a coat or
>dress". 'lappet' was another term for the lap meaning "1: a fold of flap on a
>garment or headdress". It came to mean the flaps that hang down from a
>bishops miter.

I was reading it as "lappet" too, which is often a band around the arm,
just above the elbow that hangs down in a long wide ribbon. It can also be
dagged, but is often seen plain, especially in English cotehardies.  I've
also seen the term used for the "tail" on the chaperone/hood, that when
rolled up into a turban-styled hat, hung out the side and is seen looped
under the chin, and it makes sense to me that it would also be the flaps
from the bishops miter.  From a modern perspective, it tends to be a long
narrow flap, and the medieval ones tend to be about 3" wide and rounded on
the ends... this case, I'd lean toward the sentence discussing the sleeves
vs hats or skirts.

Perhaps the person had only a short-sleeved gown, with no pinned-on
oversleeves or lappets (above the elbow)...

Julie Adams


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 15:42:19 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Merouda's description of Northwestern US SCA fashions is awfully apt and
the Simplicity Celtic pattern at  http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0663ren.JPG
is probably going to sell like hotcakes here.  I'm beginning to sink into
depression every time I see metal grommets.  We'll be subjected to these in
plaid taffeta and rayon velvet this feast season.... gahhhh.... but perhaps
we should thank Simplicity for giving us photographic evidence that these
bodices CAN be worn with high-necked shifts.  grumble, snarl...

On a more constructive note, I'd like to hear from someone who has used
this pattern and/or the SImplicity Elizabethan.  Are any hints on bodice
fitting included?  I'm fairly impressed with the Period Patterns
Tudor/Elizabethan, which instructs the user to cut muslins of the bodice
pieces and fit carefully over a corset, then transfer the changes to the
actual fabric.  

Leslie Helms
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 19 20:04:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 18:12:59 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> 
> Merouda's description of Northwestern US SCA fashions is awfully apt and
> the Simplicity Celtic pattern at  http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0663ren.JPG

Well, they're cute, and possibly suitable for Scottish
Country Dancing?  Don't they look more or less 19th c.?
(or Brigadoon?)
Wouldn't that put them well beyond the scope of either
the SCA or the Renaissance? Of course, the Renaissance
arrived a bit later in Scotland ... :->


Susan
with tongue firmly in cheek

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Discontinued buttons
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 01:14:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_008F_01BEEAA9.62F134A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I lost the original message from someone looking for buttons but...

Any one looking for discontinued buttons might want to try Buttons & =
Things in Freeport, Maine. They do mail order and also have a matching =
service. I managed to fill-in several old (purchased 10 years ago)sets, =
one of which I had been looking for since I purchased the originals. The =
owner advertises as a factory outlet, if my memory is right (lets not =
bet on that) she had JHB, LaMode, and Streamline as well as many I =
couldn't identify. If you go near Freeport make the time to stop. The =
store is in an old house and the first floor is just buttons and more =
buttons - floor to ceiling and wall to wall. The prices are very =
reasonable and they are sold individually so you can buy what you need.

Http://www.buttonsmaine.com
 Buttons & Things
24 Main Street, Rt. 1
Freeport, Maine 04032
207-865-4480=20

------=_NextPart_000_008F_01BEEAA9.62F134A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I lost the original message from someone looking for =
buttons=20
but...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any one looking for discontinued buttons might want =
to try=20
Buttons &amp; Things in Freeport, Maine. They do mail order and also =
have a=20
matching service. I managed to fill-in several old (purchased 10 years =
ago)sets,=20
one of which I had been looking for since I purchased the originals. The =
owner=20
advertises as a factory outlet, if my memory&nbsp;is right (lets not bet =
on=20
that) she had JHB, LaMode, and Streamline as well as many I couldn't =
identify.=20
If&nbsp;you go near Freeport make the time to stop. The store is in an =
old house=20
and the first floor is just buttons and more buttons - floor to ceiling =
and wall=20
to wall. The prices&nbsp;are very reasonable and they are sold =
individually so=20
you can buy what you need.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.buttonsmaine.com">Http://www.buttonsmaine.com</A></FON=
T></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;Buttons &amp; Things</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>24 Main Street, Rt. 1</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Freeport, Maine 04032</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>207-865-4480</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_008F_01BEEAA9.62F134A0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 10:28:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:39:29 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I was reading it as "lappet" too, which is often a band around the arm,
> just above the elbow that hangs down in a long wide ribbon. It can also be
> dagged, but is often seen plain, especially in English cotehardies.

Actually, I believe this is called a tippet.  :)

> I've
> also seen the term used for the "tail" on the chaperone/hood, that when
> rolled up into a turban-styled hat, hung out the side and is seen looped
> under the chin

I have only heard this refered to as a liripipe.

One of the things I think of when I think of lappets are the flaps that hang down
the sides of the early-mid Tudor ladies head dresses.  Can't remember what  date
the quote was from.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 10:35:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:48:17 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > Merouda's description of Northwestern US SCA fashions is awfully apt and
> > the Simplicity Celtic pattern at  http://www.konceptz.com/ebay/0663ren.JPG
>
> Well, they're cute, and possibly suitable for Scottish
> Country Dancing?  Don't they look more or less 19th c.?
> (or Brigadoon?)
> Wouldn't that put them well beyond the scope of either
> the SCA or the Renaissance? Of course, the Renaissance
> arrived a bit later in Scotland ... :->

Yes indeedy it does.  But perhaps you haven't been to a PNW SCA event.  We have
*WAY* too many folks wearing the tavern wench look.  Bodice, muslin or cotton
shirt, skirt.  The only requirement in the SCA is to make an *attempt* at
clothing prior to 1600 (1650 some say).  Since this outfit is an *attempt* at,
say, the Poulet Gauche of the late 1500's-early 1600's look it slides.  The
worst thing about this look is the, PLEASE pardon my language here, Tits On A
Plate look.  That's what costuming folks here call it.  The neckline of the
bodice is cut so low that the breasts flop out of the bodice entirely and swing
relatively free in the shirt on the outside of the bodice.  I guess it's more
like Balls In A Sack though.  (Don't go there!!)  If this Simplicity pattern at
least gets the breasts inside where they belong I will, for one, be *MUCH*
happier.  GAWD it's disgusting...

If we can get them to do this, maybe we can get them in a corset next.  And then
a partlet and farthingale.

Hoping against hope,
Cynthia (aka Merouda)

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 10:42:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:59:30 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: That Moy dress again...
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

I've made some changes to the Moy Dress page, if there are any of you
who are interested in taking a look.  I've gotten a better idea of the
likely original cutting pattern, and some photos of a mock-up.

Marc Carlson
http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.html and
http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/moy3.html
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

  The neckline of the
>bodice is cut so low that the breasts flop out of the bodice entirely and swing
>relatively free in the shirt on the outside of the bodice.  I guess it's more
>like Balls In A Sack though.  (Don't go there!!)  If this Simplicity pattern at
>least gets the breasts inside where they belong I will, for one, be *MUCH*
>happier.  GAWD it's disgusting...

I have never understood the popularity of this look.  Don't they understand
how gross it looks?  It's okay on, say, a 16 year old who still has firm
breasts, but so often it's your Woman Of A Certain Age, with her bosom
drooping over the top of her bodice....ugh!  And the same body would be so
much improved by wearing a properly fitted bodice that pushes them up.

Also, it's painful.  I tried the under the breast bodice look once, for
Middle Eastern, and I was in agony.  

Margo Anderson

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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 09:22:20 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Medieval Research question
In-Reply-To: <37BD76B1.B9B5B728@serv.net>
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 <l03130302b3e234d70887@[207.167.66.176]>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:39 AM 8/20/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Actually, I believe this is called a tippet.  :)
         So did I.
>I have only heard this refered to as a liripipe.
         Concur again.
>One of the things I think of when I think of lappets are the flaps that
hang down
>the sides of the early-mid Tudor ladies head dresses.  Can't remember what
 date
>the quote was from.
         Lappets, yes.  In this case though, the MS reads: l a p p e s.  
--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
         Thank you, Lady Merouda.  I shall fwd. your msg. to Sir Maythen.  
Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 12:33:43 1999
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Date: 20 Aug 99 10:43:50 PDT
From: Agnes Gawne <acgawne@usa.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:maternity dress
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-Poster: Agnes Gawne <acgawne@usa.net>

There is an interesting website of the Neil Vincent Collection, a Bainbridge
Island couture costume collector.  He had one maternity gown in the last show
he mounted
http://www.vincentcollection.com/gallery0.html
"C. 1863 gown for "a young married lady in a delicate and interesting state of
health."
shown.  Take a look at the photo.  

Neil Vincent is a wonderful guy and he would probably answer questions about
construction of that gown if you e-mailed him.  

Incidentally, if you ever have a chance to see any of his collection on
s\display - do it.  He has only high quality things and is very careful to
display them correctly.

____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 12:42:08 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 12:53:51 -0500 (CDT)
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: those patterns again...
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Here is the new url for the OTHER patterns that simplicity put together.
http://www.simplicity.com/845ren/ren-home.htm

Has anyone found the Elizabethan one in any store other than
Hancock's?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 12:58:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:12:01 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I found it at Joann's last night and at our local Pacific Fabrics more than
a week ago.  Cynthia

> Here is the new url for the OTHER patterns that simplicity put together.
> http://www.simplicity.com/845ren/ren-home.htm
> Has anyone found the Elizabethan one in any store other than

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 13:13:19 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 12:06:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


   Of course there is also the OTHER look, by more modest but equally
misled
ladies - the low-cut bodice, the see-through muslin shirt, and the
great-big iron-clad
Cross-Your-Heart bra - often in a tasteful black.......<G>

  Liadain,
 constantly amazed at what ya see when you ain't got your gun.....

>   The neckline of the
> >bodice is cut so low that the breasts flop out of the bodice entirely
and swing
> >relatively free in the shirt on the outside of the bodice.  I guess it's
more
>
> I have never understood the popularity of this look.  Don't they
understand
> how gross it looks?  It's okay on, say, a 16 year old who still has firm
> breasts, but so often it's your Woman Of A Certain Age, with her bosom
> drooping over the top of her bodice....ugh!  And the same body would be
so
> much improved by wearing a properly fitted bodice that pushes them up.
> 
> Also, it's painful.  I tried the under the breast bodice look once, for
> Middle Eastern, and I was in agony.  
> 
> Margo Anderson
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:33:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Charlotte <charlotte@renaissancewoman.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
In-Reply-To: <37BD78C0.E640BD9@serv.net>
References: <4.1.19990819153105.0369e410@mail.canfield.com>
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-Poster: Charlotte <charlotte@renaissancewoman.net>


>Yes indeedy it does.  But perhaps you haven't been to a PNW SCA event.  We 
>have
>*WAY* too many folks wearing the tavern wench look.  Bodice, muslin or cotton
>shirt, skirt.  The only requirement in the SCA is to make an *attempt* at
>clothing prior to 1600 (1650 some say).  Since this outfit is an *attempt* at,
>say, the Poulet Gauche of the late 1500's-early 1600's look it slides.  The
>worst thing about this look is the, PLEASE pardon my language here, Tits On A
>Plate look.  That's what costuming folks here call it.  The neckline of the
>bodice is cut so low that the breasts flop out of the bodice entirely and 
>swing
>relatively free in the shirt on the outside of the bodice.  I guess it's more
>like Balls In A Sack though.  (Don't go there!!)  If this Simplicity 
>pattern at
>least gets the breasts inside where they belong I will, for one, be *MUCH*
>happier.  GAWD it's disgusting...

I have to agree with Merouda here.  Here in An Tir, there are far too many 
people
wearing the tavern wench look.  I have a feeling that part of this is 
because there
are also a lot of newbies running around and it can be the easiest thing to 
put
together at first.

My first 2 outfits were both tavern wench outfits.  I even did the Tits on 
a Plate thing,
before I figured out how to lace my bodice to be comfortable and not make me
look like that. (I admit the first time I wore a boned bodice, the only 
thing going through
my head was "oh my g*d, there's actually a waist in there somewhere!)

I have since "graduated" to wearing surcotes 90% of the time (if the event 
calls for it,
I will wear the wench stuff... usually only in the evening).  My next 
attempt is going
to be a houppelande though.

>If we can get them to do this, maybe we can get them in a corset 
>next.  And then
>a partlet and farthingale.

Hey Merouda... you ever make it up to Vancouver?  I'm trying to get some 
people together to do a fabric
run through Little India and Dressew's some saturday and then spend the 
rest of saturday and sunday
making garb :)

Charlotte Madeleine de Courseilles

mka Karla Sexsmith
in the Barony of Lion's Gate
Kingdom of An Tir
mka Vancouver BC Canada

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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:36:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: those patterns again...
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> Has anyone found the Elizabethan one in any store
> other than
> Hancock's?


Yep... Jo-Ann's has it... they just dont have the new
books yet so you can't look it up.. .though I found it
on an end-cap.

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: those patterns again...
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:36:21 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 12:54
Subject: H-COST: those patterns again...


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Here is the new url for the OTHER patterns that simplicity put together.
>http://www.simplicity.com/845ren/ren-home.htm
>
>Has anyone found the Elizabethan one in any store other than
>Hancock's?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com


Yup! JoAnne's has them, and they drop to 1.99 Saturday. and Labor Day
weekend JoAnn's will have the McCall's for 99 cents if you are  intrested...

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 13:26:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Well, now, nothing beats the
chain-mail-bikini-with-nothing-under-it that we see at
Gen-Con.  *sigh*  And they wonder why they get hit
on...

Sarah



>    Of course there is also the OTHER look, by more
> modest but equally
> misled
> ladies - the low-cut bodice, the see-through muslin
> shirt, and the
> great-big iron-clad
> Cross-Your-Heart bra - often in a tasteful
> black.......<G>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Frank A Thallas Jr <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 13:24
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>
>   Of course there is also the OTHER look, by more modest but equally
>misled
>ladies - the low-cut bodice, the see-through muslin shirt, and the
>great-big iron-clad
>Cross-Your-Heart bra - often in a tasteful black.......<G>
>
>  Liadain,
> constantly amazed at what ya see when you ain't got your gun.....
>

Ok, obviously everyone here hates the tavern look! ::grin::

I'm curious as to the opinion of the list of the Simplicity pattern for
larger ladies ::ahem:: <grin> that is a bodice and overskirt/skirt... It
looks very modest to me, especially when I put my nice new chemise under it.
I refer to the "nobility" version not the servant one with the off the
shoulder top...

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 13:39:44 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 12:33:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Actually, I don't think we all HATE it (except for the apparently
obligatory tits-on-a-platter look); it's just that in some places, it's
overdone.  The SCA, after all, covers 1000 years of history; how come
everybody's jammed up at one end?!?

  I am another Bountiful Lady, and have one of the mentioned-below
outfits - just cut the bodice so that it contains your Bounty properly. <G>

Liadain

> Ok, obviously everyone here hates the tavern look! ::grin::
> 
> I'm curious as to the opinion of the list of the Simplicity pattern for
> larger ladies ::ahem:: <grin> that is a bodice and overskirt/skirt... It
> looks very modest to me, especially when I put my nice new chemise under
it.
> I refer to the "nobility" version not the servant one with the off the
> shoulder top...
> 
> Anya
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I'm curious as to the opinion of the list of the Simplicity pattern for
>larger ladies ::ahem:: <grin> that is a bodice and overskirt/skirt... It
>looks very modest to me, especially when I put my nice new chemise under it.
>I refer to the "nobility" version not the servant one with the off the
>shoulder top...
>
It's much too curvy.  I don't know why Simpolicity insists on putting those
princess line seams with boning in the thing, as a flat fronted bodice with
no seam would be more authentic AND easier to sew.  

A few other recommendations would be to skip the overlapping tied shoulder
straps and just put a seam there, and to leave off the elastic casing along
the arm of the chemise, also skip the "roman drapery"on the  skirt.  The hat
is hopeless.  

I would not use this pattern for a noble costume, no matter what fabrics
Simplicity chose to make it up in.  the new court gown pattern is much closer.  

As I said before, I'll be writing up a critique and instructions for
improving both this one and the new gown and adding them to my Website as
soon as I can get to it.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Ok, obviously everyone here hates the tavern look! ::grin::

Well.  *laugh*   Actually I think it's a really cute look when done well and
with taste.  I myself actually own a tavern wench bodice that I purchased at my
second event.  The bodice is well made and doesn't do the exposure thing.  I
have been known to wear it to our tavern events.   Appropriate I think.  I have
made another bodice out of 4 different shades of velvet with velvet buttons I
made to match.  There are times when this is appropriate.  :)  Honest.  Although
I would now make a more period the chemise, make an overskirt and a partlet and
a cap.

> I'm curious as to the opinion of the list of the Simplicity pattern for
> larger ladies ::ahem:: <grin> that is a bodice and overskirt/skirt... It
> looks very modest to me, especially when I put my nice new chemise under it.
> I refer to the "nobility" version not the servant one with the off the
> shoulder top...

This is pretty, nice, and modest.  While not accurate, it suffices, especially
for down and dirty quicky garb, newbie garb, etc.  Trust me, it will be okay.  I
own the pattern but will probably lend it to newcomers.  The reason I bought
that bodice at my second event was I so positive that I would not be able to
ever sew something so complicated and fitted.  That was three years ago.  Now I
almost exclusively do fitted cotehardies and am starting to do the tablet woven
edges and have been making my own buttons for some time now.  I seriously
underestimated myself in the beginning but that's okay.  And I've made bodices
etc....  Can't stop me now.  *g*

While I would prefer more accurate clothing personally, I think it is only
detrimental to not allow folks to start off with whatever they can.  I am not so
much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so much out
there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self respecting woman of
any class in history until the 20th century would have let her bosom hang out
like that.  Never.  Even poor and "available" tavern wenches would have had a
more modest bodice.  Now they might have loosened the laces etc... but nothing
even close to our current blasphemy.  *g*  A tasteful and well dressed lady is
always sexy and there's no need to go letting it all hang out.

*trip*  oh!  didn't even know I got up on that box...

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I was told that the front laced bodice with an open attached skirt worn
over a non-see through chemise and a plaide (sp?) was appropriate for
certain periods of Celts.  Is this not so?

Kat
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I LOVED it!  While I changed some things, obviously,
it is much easier to do this when you have a pattern
that fits!  Let me tell you I am tired beyond belief
at the "made for a stick" patterns that would maybe
fit my barbie! ;-)

All in all a relatively simple pattern that I thought
came out very well.

Sarah



> I'm curious as to the opinion of the list of the
> Simplicity pattern for
> larger ladies ::ahem:: <grin> that is a bodice and
> overskirt/skirt... It
> looks very modest to me, especially when I put my
> nice new chemise under it.
> I refer to the "nobility" version not the servant
> one with the off the
> shoulder top...
> 
> Anya
> 
> 
>
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>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:12:55 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 13:38
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>Well, now, nothing beats the
>chain-mail-bikini-with-nothing-under-it that we see at
>Gen-Con.  *sigh*  And they wonder why they get hit
>on...
>
>Sarah


Ummm... that's popular at Texas Ren Festival, and from reports, Scarbourough
<sp> Faire here in Ansteorra. Maybe they aren't quite to nothing under the
mail, but it's very very close in some cases.

Anya
(Wondering if she should make up some terrycloth cloaks out of that cheap
cheap bright pink fabric she saw at Hancock's on the close-out table
yesterday to toss on these poor deluded {and usually sunburned, lol}
girls...)

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 13:04:11 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


   Um - well, this would be sort of an approximation of the de Heere (sp?)
drawings, for the 15-1600's.....
   But first, saying "Celts" is like saying "African" and expecting
everybody to look
alike.  There were Berbers, Egyptians, Zulu, etc - all with different
dress, culture, etc.
First decide if you're Scots, Irish, Welsh, Bretagne......
  A chemise/shift/smock is UNDERWEAR.  I don't think (YMMV) that a decent
lady
would have gone out with her chemise peeking through her skirt any more
than you'd
go out in public now with your slip hanging out of your dress - the color
depictions I've
seen from de Heere show the split skirt opening over a garment of color -
another skirt, 
an undergown of some kind.....

  Liadain
 
> I was told that the front laced bodice with an open attached skirt worn
> over a non-see through chemise and a plaide (sp?) was appropriate for
> certain periods of Celts.  Is this not so?
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 14:02
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>It's much too curvy.  I don't know why Simpolicity insists on putting those
>princess line seams with boning in the thing, as a flat fronted bodice with
>no seam would be more authentic AND easier to sew.

I just finished the skirt (the one without the pouffy thingy) and made the
bodice last night (hee hee hee). Seeing as I had no clue what I was doing
going into it, it turned out pretty spiffy. (Doncha just love us beginners?)
As the boning love to turn rollies and randomly change the shape of my
bosooms, I am interested in an iea on how to change it up a bit, without
going tooooo off the pattern. (I can draft a simple pattern or follow a
commercial.. but the skills haven't met in the middle yet.) I like having
the ability to adjust the shoulders easier as I lose weight, so I'd like to
leave the ties there in. But I would like ideas before I start another
bodice tomorrow. I made a basic 4 square chemise instead of that thingy in
the pattern.

Also, any ideas on the Mens Simplicity pattern that looks kinda like Italian
Ren? I may be screaming for help later when I try to draft the pants pattern
for my hubs (he hates hose)

> the new court gown pattern is much closer.
Are you refering to the Elizabethan or another one?

Thanks all...

Anya

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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 14:11
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>I LOVED it!  While I changed some things, obviously,
>it is much easier to do this when you have a pattern
>that fits!  Let me tell you I am tired beyond belief
>at the "made for a stick" patterns that would maybe
>fit my barbie! ;-)
>
>All in all a relatively simple pattern that I thought
>came out very well.
>
>Sarah
>


::nods nods nods:: I'm a 15th century Russian and would LOVE to make the
Elizabethan.. but it's largest size is a 20, and according to Simplicity
(the small-sized minded) I'm a 32W (according to my blue jeans and brand new
of the rack church dress, I'm a 24-26W). So I'm drooling on the patern
package, waiting until I get the nerve up to try and slaughte... I mean
resize the pattern...

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:28:03 1999
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

Hi,

I have just learned some good news for myself. I'm pregnant. This is good
except for one thing. I was about to make up some new 13th century garb for
myself to be cut in a period way for the first time. (my SCA device should
be passing soon and I thought it might be fun to have a cyclas with my arms
on it). I now have a problem. I have only one picture with a pregnant woman
from this period: an illustration in Alphonse the Wise's, *Cantigas* (13th
century, at Madrid, Escorial Library). The pregnant woman in the series of
pictures is wearing a cyclas over a cote. She is _very_ pregnant. I can't
be certain so I'm asking. If anyone has seen this illo and can tell me if
the gores would start under the arm pit instead of at the waist to have
ease room for her large tummy.

Also (since pregancy only lasts nine months and nursing at least a year)
what was the period way of dressing in the 13th century if you were
nursing? Did you have a slit down the front of your cote and cyclas to
allow you nurse that way? Did you have to completely undress? (I hope not)
Or did you wear a skirt and tunic? For this question I really haven't found
any illustration to give me a clue.

I'm sure there are several of you out there who've been throught this
particular  problem or have had friends go through it. I had a friend who
used a princess line dress and put buttons down the front on each side. I'm
not sure I liked the effect.

Help. Please

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:28:48 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 12:38:09 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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To: GBACG Mailing List <gbacg@tango.rahul.net>,
        Vintage Clothing Mailing List <vintage@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Vintage dance in Palo Alto, CA--Costumes welcome
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

On Friday November 27, from 8 to 10 p.m., the Pomander Club will hold a
ragtime and 1920s dance in Palo Alto. The Paul Price Society Orchestra
will play one-steps, two-steps, cakewalks, fox trots, waltzes, tangos,
maxixes, and Charlestons. (They sometimes also play specialty dances
such as the grizzly bear and Varsity Drag.)  Vintage dance masters Allan

Terry and Frances Grimble will coordinate the evening and teach from 7
to 8.

You do not need a partner to attend. Vintage and reproduction costumes
are admired but not required. Admission is $10 ($18/couple).

The dance will be held at:

St. Mark's Episcopal Church
600 Colorado Avenue (between Middlefield and Byron)
Palo Alto, CA

The dance floor is excellent--plenty of room, and a good wooden
surface.  Seating is available for those who do not wish to dance.

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:29:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:40:36 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
In-Reply-To: <01c301beeb42$44a9cc20$1a34aec7@oemcomputer>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Actually, the pattern, as always, lies. I made the largest size of the Ren
costumes for a friend of mine that is rather large and it was too large
for her! (She has a 40 chest and a 52 hip measurement).

I bet you will fit in the largest size just fine and have to even take it
in some.

Remember what they taught us in Home Ec. about commercial patterns, they
always add 2 inches all the way around to the paper pattern. No one knows
why.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Fri, 20 Aug 1999, Chris and Trish Makowski wrote:

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:29:05 -0500
> From: Chris and Trish Makowski <roecourt@mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
> 
> ::nods nods nods:: I'm a 15th century Russian and would LOVE to make the
> Elizabethan.. but it's largest size is a 20, and according to Simplicity
> (the small-sized minded) I'm a 32W (according to my blue jeans and brand new
> of the rack church dress, I'm a 24-26W). So I'm drooling on the patern
> package, waiting until I get the nerve up to try and slaughte... I mean
> resize the pattern...
> 
> Anya
> 

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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern sizing
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:51:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 14:42
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Actually, the pattern, as always, lies. I made the largest size of the Ren
>costumes for a friend of mine that is rather large and it was too large
>for her! (She has a 40 chest and a 52 hip measurement).
>
>I bet you will fit in the largest size just fine and have to even take it
>in some.
>
>Remember what they taught us in Home Ec. about commercial patterns, they
>always add 2 inches all the way around to the paper pattern. No one knows
>why.
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com


they must not apply that to the plus sized patterns, because every single
one that I or my mom has tried to make make for me, including the
bodice/skirt I just made, the size listed on the pattern as my size was
WAYYYY to small.. Maybe they think that by sizing the larger patterns
smaller it will help our self esteem?? Boy are they deluded if they think
so.

Anya



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:57:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:10:23 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>    Um - well, this would be sort of an approximation of the de Heere (sp?)
> drawings, for the 15-1600's.....

Yes, that would be Lucas de Heere.

>   A chemise/shift/smock is UNDERWEAR.  I don't think (YMMV) that a decent
> lady
> would have gone out with her chemise peeking through her skirt any more
> than you'd
> go out in public now with your slip hanging out of your dress

This is absolutely correct.

> - the color depictions I've
> seen from de Heere show the split skirt opening over a garment of color -
> another skirt, an undergown of some kind.....

The drawing that Liadain refers to portrays a Scottish Merchant Class lady and
a slightly higher class of lady.  The Lady's skirt that is tucked into the
belt is actually lined if I'm not mistaken.  So you have the dark yellow outer
layer, the red lining, and a green (?) underskirt.  No white at all.  Lots of
color though.  Her sleeves are tight matching the outer gown with little
turned back cuffs.  She wears a very trippy hat.  She has a very modest
neckline.

The merchant lady's only part of the chemise that shows are the sleeves and a
tiny bit around the neckline which is actually covered by a fichu type scarf.
The bodice laces up the front and what looks like a stomacher for modesty
under the laces.

http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm
http://www.lepg.org/women.htm

These two websites are great.  Both from Le Poulet Gauche
Lots of middle and lower class clothing from the 16th century.  Lot's of
bodices and skirt combos, great stuff.  But no immodesty.  Maybe these
pictures will give you some ideas as to how you might take the Simplicity
patterns and make them more accurate.

Have a blast.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:58:31 1999
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From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

OK, so I stupidly copied an old message--the next dance is August 27
(next Friday) not November 27.  Sorry!  But we'll be there on time!

The Pomander Club holiday season dance, incidentally, is the first
Friday in December.  The dances are usually on fourth Fridays of the
month.  However, the fourth Fridays of November and December fall
directly on the Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday
weekends--inconvenient days to hold or attend a dance.

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 14:59:09 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


> Also, any ideas on the Mens Simplicity pattern that
> looks kinda like Italian
> Ren? I may be screaming for help later when I try to
> draft the pants pattern
> for my hubs (he hates hose)
> 


I am mostly likely going to be crucified for this but
here goes...  I found that the McCalls (I think)
Pirate pattern pants are quite easy to adapt...
depending on what you are looking for... my boy won't
even LOOK at hose, so he likes these..

Sarah

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST:  Pants -was:Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEEB2A.6B9911A0
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 I may be screaming for help later when I try to
> draft the pants pattern
> for my hubs (he hates hose)
>=20


I am mostly likely going to be crucified for this but
here goes...  I found that the McCalls (I think)
Pirate pattern pants are quite easy to adapt...
depending on what you are looking for... my boy won't
even LOOK at hose, so he likes these..


[Carrie Veenstra]  I've had good luck with the technique of no-pattern =
pants given here:

http://www.unm.edu/~kballar/newcomer/pants.html

These are baggies, and the easiest thing to get my newbies into ( 20th =
century ren casual, we call it)

I've also been able to ease some of the guys I sew for over to hose =
(well, fancy cotton lycra tights) after a season or two of faire. ;-)  I =
have the best luck convincing them when their shirt, tunic or doublet =
falls below  crotch level by at least 3-4 inches.  Haven't gotten anyone =
to try the really high-hemmed Italian style doublet w/hose combo yet.=20

For Italian Ren, from what I've seen in paintings & such,  the male =
options are long gown and/or hose, sometimes knee-length TIGHT pants =
over hose, or meeting the hose at the knee...  Pants as modern males =
tend to accept them just don't seem to fit the silhouette for that place =
& time.  Hopefully, someone on the list will point out that I'm wrong in =
this, and tell me where else to go look ;->

 Carrie

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 16:30:03 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


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>>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>Well, now, nothing beats the
>chain-mail-bikini-with-nothing-under-it that we see at



Ummm... that's popular at Texas Ren Festival, and from reports, =
Scarbourough
<sp> Faire here in Ansteorra. Maybe they aren't quite to nothing under =
the
mail, but it's very very close in some cases.
Anya


[Carrie Veenstra]  no, no... I've seen it at TRF and Scarbourough.. some =
of them are definitely without anything but metal on.. though the =
chain-mail mesh cups look much more uncomfortable than the hammered =
metal-set-into chain straps, I bet both are darn hot in the wrong =
places, and leave very odd sunburn lines!  My favorite faire patron =
costume is the 'three bunnies and a thong'  Barbarianess combo -- three =
rabbit furs and a bit of leather thong to tie them together (almost) =
over the appropriate areas.

But more seriously, several people keep commenting on the curved bodice =
lines that continue to show up in the  simplicity patterns --  simple, =
really.  it takes a bit of exposure  to accustom the modern fashion eye =
to accept the straight lines and angles of Elizabethan as attractive OR =
comfortable.  Curved seams also imply a better fit to the novice or =
non-sewer. =20

On to convincing that corsets and farthingales are  necessary and =
appropriate --  When I first started enjoying ren faires 10 years or so =
ago, I made a bedsheet chemise, a skirt, and an un-boned bodice ( bad, =
bad idea-- never wore it), wore my everyday brassiere underneath...point =
being that sillouette and foundation garments are the most pervasive =
parts of any era's 'dress code'.  They are resisted for almost the same =
reasons that they are needed!  Also, modern conditioning toward single =
or two layered dressing has to be overcome, and especially here in sunny =
Texas,  the idea that 1-2 layers of polyester should somehow be cooler =
than 3-5 layers of cotton & linen( I'm not yet brave enough to venture =
into the wool arena, but am getting there).

Then there's the satire and general bad press that similar underthings =
have undergone in the modern era -- everything from  victorian horror =
stories involving the corsets to "Gone with the Wind", fighting hoops =
and corset both.. the  Bondage and fetish associations with laced =
undergarments...


The way I see it, though not the simplicity patterns are a good thing =
for beginners and their families to have access to at the corner fabric =
shop -- you don't have to get very deep into it anymore to find the =
Folkwear, MM etc.  patterns, and even wonderful books  (every Ren & Med =
faire i've been to in the past 6 years has had a shop selling this =
stuff).. While I wish the  mainstream companies would emphasize natural =
content fibers and perhaps present a little more history, I don't =
begrudge their points of inauthenticity.  To them, it is after all, a =
costume.

Carrie=20
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 16:33:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 16:15:04 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

What about prior to the 16th C?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 16:33:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:44:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

On 8/20/99, Anya  "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
wrote: Ummm... that's popular at Texas Ren Festival, and from reports,
Scarbourough <sp> Faire here in Ansteorra. Maybe they aren't quite to
nothing under the mail, but it's very very close in some cases. Anya
          I love the hot pink terrycloth cloak thought.  Is the fabric
Medieval/earlier in origin, though?  I know the color is.
          Nothing quite beats the pair I saw at an SCA West-AnTir War about
4 yrs. back.  The woman, petite, very dark olive skin and black hair, in
fur bikini, doing just fine.  Her escort, a lobster-burned pale blonde in a
fur breech-clout [thong style, yet], boots, and spear.  Ouch...all the way
around. I have never wished to wear that kind of thing, but I surely
wouldn't have put myself in his place--nor even vicinity--for the next
week--or three. cjc
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:43:04 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Anya,

Just a suggestion...  Are you looking at their measurements for the size?
Or are you checking the garments measurements?  There should be two on the
pattern envelope.  The finished garment measurement might be more useful to
you, especially with, for example, a bodice.
    Michelle
-

>::nods nods nods:: I'm a 15th century Russian and would LOVE to make the
>Elizabethan.. but it's largest size is a 20, and according to Simplicity
>(the small-sized minded) I'm a 32W (according to my blue jeans and brand
new
>of the rack church dress, I'm a 24-26W). So I'm drooling on the patern
>package, waiting until I get the nerve up to try and slaughte... I mean
>resize the pattern...
>
>Anya
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 16:36:06 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:54:47 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


I can't be a source for absolute authenticy but, I can tell you what I did
for my pregnancy and breastfeeding.  I wore this to Elizabethan and Tudor
events.
   I made a surcote with a tie on (apron-like) underskirt.   I tied the
false skirt on over the baby, almost up as high as just under my breast.
The baby held it up.  For a chemise, I used the (Folkwear)  prairie dress
pattern without the yolk, which has 3 panels to complete each side (front
and back).  The two seams in the front I stiched so that they were
permanently open about 9 inches down from the top. (the openning I made
about 8 inches long and it worked well)
  When it was time to feed, I am able to lift the front of the surcote,
reach into the opening of the chemise and just move the fabric out of the
way for baby.  The bulk of the fabric and baby covered what I didn't want
others to see. (I also cheated and used a nursing bra underneath.)
    Michelle


>Also (since pregancy only lasts nine months and nursing at least a year)
>what was the period way of dressing in the 13th century if you were
>nursing? Did you have a slit down the front of your cote and cyclas to
>allow you nurse that way? Did you have to completely undress? (I hope not)
>Or did you wear a skirt and tunic? For this question I really haven't found
>any illustration to give me a clue.
>
>I'm sure there are several of you out there who've been throught this
>particular  problem or have had friends go through it. I had a friend who
>used a princess line dress and put buttons down the front on each side. I'm
>not sure I liked the effect.
>
>Help. Please
>
>Francesca da Bari
>Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
>Francesca.da.Bari
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 16:38:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:40:54 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have just learned some good news for myself. I'm pregnant.

Congratulations!

> Also (since pregancy only lasts nine months and nursing at least a year)
> what was the period way of dressing in the 13th century if you were
> nursing? Did you have a slit down the front of your cote and cyclas to
> allow you nurse that way? Did you have to completely undress? (I hope not)
> Or did you wear a skirt and tunic? For this question I really haven't found
> any illustration to give me a clue.

This is my first thought...  I would put some nursing slits in the under dress
along a princess seam that could be closed with a flap and maybe velcro.  Put
the flap so that it goes on the inside and with the velcro you would have a
fairly hidden seam.  Or some kind of front opening gown.  Use the Cyclas for
modesty.  Put the child under the cyclas, open up and go...  The cyclas
wouldn't need to be slit since it is already open on the sides.  I suspect you
will have to consider this your maternity and nursing gown and not expect to
wear it at other times.

As for gores.  I would start them at the underarm.  Definitely.  And maybe add
lacing so that you can let it out as you go.  And then let it in as you go
after the birth.

> I'm sure there are several of you out there who've been throught this
> particular  problem or have had friends go through it. I had a friend who
> used a princess line dress and put buttons down the front on each side. I'm
> not sure I liked the effect.

It seems like this would call attention to it all.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 15:31:31 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Are we still talking Irish/Scots/Welsh/whoever clothing?

Liadain,
  her Train of Thought Derailed....
----------
>
> What about prior to the 16th C?
> 
> Kat
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> What about prior to the 16th C?

Can you be more specific?  I'm not sure what exactly you're asking.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I just finished the skirt (the one without the pouffy thingy) and made the
>bodice last night (hee hee hee). Seeing as I had no clue what I was doing
>going into it, it turned out pretty spiffy. (Doncha just love us beginners?)
>As the boning love to turn rollies and randomly change the shape of my
>bosooms, I am interested in an iea on how to change it up a bit, without
>going tooooo off the pattern. (I can draft a simple pattern or follow a
>commercial.. but the skills haven't met in the middle yet.)

The following method may or may not work, it depends quite a bit on just how
buxom the wearer is and how...well...*squishy* the bust is.  

Anyway, take the bodice center front piece and the side front peice, and but
them together so that the start and end of the seam lines match.  Depending
on the size, you may need to trim off a bit at the top of the armhole to
make them match up.  The curve of the side piece will overlap the center
piece, ignore it.  t
Tape the two peices together, and voila, you have a one peice front pattern.

The fit should be very snug, aproximately like a pair of fashionably tight
jeans (Are tight jeans still fashionable?) otherwise the bodice won't be
able to support you and your bust will fall down inside.  

For lower class, I usually find that I don't need boning except at the
center fronts to keep the laces from crumpling, but some ladies like to run
one on each side on the diagonal, aproximately from the armhole notch to the
center waist front.  

It's a "quick and dirty method, but it may work.  Good luck!

Margo
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 but it's largest size is a 20, and according to Simplicity
>(the small-sized minded) I'm a 32W (according to my blue jeans and brand new
>of the rack church dress, I'm a 24-26W). 

Take the pattern out of the envelope and look at, and maybe measure the
pices.  these things are HUGE!  I bought the larger size range according to
the directions, planning to make it up as a "Not this Way" demo for my
classes, and it was way too big...and I'm a size 24-26, too.

Margo
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 17:04:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 16:47
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>Anya,
>
>Just a suggestion...  Are you looking at their measurements for the size?
>Or are you checking the garments measurements?  There should be two on the
>pattern envelope.  The finished garment measurement might be more useful to
>you, especially with, for example, a bodice.
>    Michelle
>-


When I refer to the small sizedness of the Simplicity patterns, I'm
reffering to the fact the they believe a 52 inch bust is a 32, when if I go
to Wal-mart and get a cheep blouse that same 52 inch bust fits quite nicely
in a 26. And I did have to make the size 32 bodice. When I muslined our the
28 it was very much too small.

As for finished garment measurements, I'm not really sure how that would
apply to the human body. Can someone explain how that translates? A good
example is the shirt and tunic I'm about to make for Chris:  the tunic
pattern has the following finishe garment measurements listed on it:

bust: 54 inches
waist: 55
hips: 58 1/2

If that's equivalent to measurement around, then I might not have to fudge
it a little bigger.

Anya

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From: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 15:14:42 -0700
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-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>

Do let us me know privately if you plan to do that get-together. I know
Merouda, and I'd love to join you guys on a fun-filled day of fabric
shopping for silks....

~Meryld
AKA Gail

>Hey Merouda... you ever make it up to Vancouver?  I'm trying
>to get some
>people together to do a fabric
>run through Little India and Dressew's some saturday and then
>spend the
>rest of saturday and sunday
>making garb :)
>
>Charlotte Madeleine de Courseilles
>
>mka Karla Sexsmith
>in the Barony of Lion's Gate
>Kingdom of An Tir
>mka Vancouver BC Canada

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 17:24:47 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
> 
> > What about prior to the 16th C?
> 
> Can you be more specific?  I'm not sure what exactly you're asking.

You seem to say that this outfit was never worn by anyone but modern
re-enactors but then quote 16th C citations.  Is there any evidence pro
or con for it being worn prior to that time?  As I said, I was given to
understand by several persons who had Scots or Irish personas and who
were not adverse to research that the frontlaced bodice top with the
split skirt attached was worn by women sometime between 650 and 1650.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 17:42:32 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 16:37:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


   There seems to be very little concrete info on Irish/Scots clothing
prior
to the assorted English invasions, and even less on women - women were
not often portrayed in stone carvings (crosses, etc) and manuscripts that
give us the little we know of early period - most written descriptions are
of
leines (a tunic sort of thing, possibly with or without sleeves) ionars
(variously
described jacket-sorts of things) and brats, a big fancy cloak thing (I'll
leave
better descriptions to the experts to fight over).  Layers, many colors,
and
lavish decoration were all apparently popular - the "if you've got it,
flaunt it"
school of thought.
  There are also written descriptions of Irish women having nothing BUT a
brat to
wear, but most of these are from Anglo-Norman sources, so should be taken
with a
grain of salt.
    To the best of my admittedly limited knowledge (McClintock, Dunleavy,
assorted manuscripts) the laced-gown outfit is comtemporary with late
Tudor/Elizabethan fashion - best bet, from about 1550 on.
     There are some webpages with images, but my puter-crash ate all my
bookmakrs -
does anyone else have them on hand?

Liadain

   



> You seem to say that this outfit was never worn by anyone but modern
> re-enactors but then quote 16th C citations.  Is there any evidence pro
> or con for it being worn prior to that time?  As I said, I was given to
> understand by several persons who had Scots or Irish personas and who
> were not adverse to research that the frontlaced bodice top with the
> split skirt attached was worn by women sometime between 650 and 1650.
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Message-ID: <19990820.143636.4791.0.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

IMHO, the tavern wench look works on those that have the figures and the
upper body for it, but it's not particularly historical. Plus, in the
SCA, as you act, so you are treated! Project "wench," and don't be
surprised.

What's wrong with doing some easy things like T-tunics and surcoats and
houppelands for starters? They're simple to sew (even if you're stuck
doing it by hand), easy to embellish, easy to accessorize, easy and
comfortable to wear, look right, and are generally flattering.

I'm not coming at this from the standpoint of a costumer--I'm coming at
this from the standpoint of someone aiming for a period look. Education
can come later. No excuse for not learning, on this list! ;)

Gads, even ladies' Italian Ren shows a bit of decollatage, but not *that*
much!



					Arlys

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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> You seem to say that this outfit was never worn by anyone but modern
> re-enactors but then quote 16th C citations.  Is there any evidence pro
> or con for it being worn prior to that time?  As I said, I was given to
> understand by several persons who had Scots or Irish personas and who
> were not adverse to research that the frontlaced bodice top with the
> split skirt attached was worn by women sometime between 650 and 1650.

What I said is that the tavern wench outfit was never worn.  That there are
some extant pictures from the late 1500-1600's of women from Scotland and
England wearing something that could be adulterated into a tavern wench or
the celtic outfit.  There is evidence of some split skirts, but none worn
split over underwear.  There is evidence of boned bodices but none that
lace loosely up the front with huge brass grommets.  That all bodices, no
matter what the class, covered the bosom and never left the breasts hanging
over the top as many modern players do.  The "costume" is simply a costume
designed by a costumer familiar with some extant documentation.  The
"costume" is not accurate or authentic.  *BUT* if you are interested in
making it more accurate and authentic I gave websites for pictures that
might assist one in doing so.

I never stated that these were or weren't worn 650 - 1650 as a year.  I
believe I said (darn it wouldn't you know I just cleaned my sent folder
out) mid - 1500 to early 1600's.

To describe a garment simply by saying that it has a split skirt and a
laced bodice is not much a of description.  Without the other details, you
can't say.  Please refer to my more detailed post.  I suspect that your
friends are right and that they have researched but details are *extremely*
important when determining accuracy.  Yes?

Hope that clarifies,
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 18:08:43 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Ah, I hadn't realized that 'wench' referred to those whose bodices act
more like a cupless bra!  I was referring to the new Simplicity pattern
which is *not* built like that (although they show it laced too loosely
in the picture).

Kat
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

When I was pregnant, I wore t-tunics belted high or under the belly
depending on which felt better at the moment!  For my chemise, I went
ahead and made one based on a nightgown pattern from Elizabeth Lee
Designs which has nursing slits in it (basically, I left off the yoke
and put in a casing).  I nursed wearing that chemise under cotehardies
and frontlaced dresses.  I also made a t-tunic with an overlay that had
nursing slits under it as well as a t-tunic which had trim running from
just below the waist and over the shoulders in just the 'right' position
which concealed the nursing slits (I used hooks & eyes to keep them from
flying open when they weren't needed).  The Laurel of our household wore
cotehardies with a gates of hell over it and just undid the cotehardie
and nursed the babe under the surcote.  I was still nursing our toddler
at the TN Ren Faire before last and wore frontlaced dresses and a
nursing chemise which made me feel more comfortable.  I also had one
cotehardie which had hooks & eyes down the seams running over the
breasts but I found I liked the front lace and nursing chemise best
unless it was cold when I would throw on the flannel t-tunic.  Oh, and
during pregnancy another option I used was to wear a skirt & t-tunic
with the skirt just under my breasts although I suppose one could lay it
across the belly or under the belly depending on comfort.  Look for
pictures of Madonna nursing the Christ child for other nursing ideas.

Kat
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <199908201921.NAA16322@sight.vcn.com> <37BDB62F.9F03F9AD@serv.net> <37BDC558.6A133C8C@home.com> <37BDCEDF.D1E4BA02@serv.net> <37BDD872.E8F07703@home.com> <37BDE162.8F8C7AFC@serv.net> <37BDE2C9.19D68811@home.com>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Ah, I hadn't realized that 'wench' referred to those whose bodices act
> more like a cupless bra!  I was referring to the new Simplicity pattern
> which is *not* built like that (although they show it laced too loosely
> in the picture).

We were discussing both actually. :)  Neither look is accurate, but the
Simplicity pattern is good enough, especially for a beginner.  We also
discussing ways to improve that were easy to do. :)

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 16:32:59 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Merouda et al:

Me too!  My mistress took me to the silk district last fall and I had a
blast...though it was a day that most of them were closed.  I can imagine
what a trip it'd be if I went when all of them are open!

And did you all know that a great exhibit is happening at the Vancuover BC
museum...I think it's 5 centuries of portraits?  ends in Sept...26th?

I see the posters around and want to go take a gander at what they've
got...Has anyone on this liste been?  What say you?

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: Wylie & Gail <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 3:19 PM
Subject: RE: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: "Wylie & Gail" <wyliesmith@isomedia.com>
>
>Do let us me know privately if you plan to do that get-together. I know
>Merouda, and I'd love to join you guys on a fun-filled day of fabric
>shopping for silks....
>
>~Meryld
>AKA Gail
>
>>Hey Merouda... you ever make it up to Vancouver?  I'm trying
>>to get some
>>people together to do a fabric
>>run through Little India and Dressew's some saturday and then
>>spend the
>>rest of saturday and sunday
>>making garb :)
>>
>>Charlotte Madeleine de Courseilles
>>
>>mka Karla Sexsmith
>>in the Barony of Lion's Gate
>>Kingdom of An Tir
>>mka Vancouver BC Canada
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Me too!  My mistress took me to the silk district last fall and I had a
> blast...though it was a day that most of them were closed.  I can imagine
> what a trip it'd be if I went when all of them are open!

Charlotte and I already "talked" this morning and we're looking at mid Oct or
mid November.  Any earlier would be brutal.  And I am looking at making a
weekend of it not a day trip.  But for all interested, lets get a list of
names and then take it privately.  :)  We'll figure something out.

Merouda / Cynthia



--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 18:31
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>We were discussing both actually. :)  Neither look is accurate, but the
>Simplicity pattern is good enough, especially for a beginner.  We also
>discussing ways to improve that were easy to do. :)
>
>Cynthia

I pulled out my pattern from last night when I made the bodice, and compared
it to the Elizabethan bodice... it looks like they are about the same size.
Margo was right, large ladies prob won't have to adjust much to make it fit
if you are about a 24-26.

Has there been a consensus yet on what to do about the sleeves and bodice
bottom edge on the Elizabethan yet? Also, the "chemise" on it is basically a
dicky. Are any of you 9especially those in the hotter areas) going to leave
it like that, or are you going to make a full chemise?

Anya

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I just checked out a copy from the library.  What it looks like to me
is the exquivalent of Alcega for 1790-1840 but better.  All kinds of
editorial comments.  Awesome book if you're a serious reenactor of the
time.  Drawings of pattern shapes, all kinds of cool info about how to
buy fabric, cut fabric, what to look for, economy, etc....  All kinds
of stitching tips, recipes for marking inks, cleaning formulas, and
the like, how to's. If you are in to this period, get it.

If it was my period I'd buy it in a flat second.  Otherwise I'll be
satisfied with checking it out of the library.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Has there been a consensus yet on what to do about the sleeves and bodice
>bottom edge on the Elizabethan yet?



I haven't seen the actual pattern yet, just the photo.  So I may be missing
some things. The sleeves look okay to me. I would make them as a puffed cap
sleeve sewn into the bodice, with a close fitted undersleeve attached to the
armscye with points so that it could be removed.  How does the pattern
handle it?

the lower edge of the bodice could be as is, although I'd probably give it a
self piping for definition and finish, or it could be finished with a
skirting or with tabs or looped tabs.  The very long point could be
shortened and blunted considerably, which would be more flattering for some
figures.  

They bodice cut doesn't look dreadfully curvy to me, but that may be the
flat chested model they show it on.  It wouldn't be too difficult to alter
the curve out. If I did that, I might choose to build the corsetry into the
gown by giving it a heavily boned lining rather than a separate corset.   I
think the neckline is too high;  generally a French bodice is best cut no
higher than the top of the nipple.   And as we discussed recently, there
isn't any documentation for French (low necked) bodices that didn't match
the over skirt.  

 Also, the "chemise" on it is basically a
>dicky. Are any of you 9especially those in the hotter areas) going to leave
>it like that, or are you going to make a full chemise?

the "dickey"  is an actual period garment, called a partlet.  They would
have been worn with a smock (chemise) cut like a t-tunic, with a low square
neck that could  just barely show above the neckline of the dress, or it
could be several inches higher, edged with embroidery or lace, to provide
more modesty.  A partlet was always worn over this smock style (I'm speaking
of upper to noble class, here) whether it was worn open to reveal the bosom,
usually by maidens, or closed, by married women.  

 Partlets were often elaborately decorated, so making them a seperate
garment from the smock made sense from a laundry point of view. 

So my answer is yes, I'd make the "dickey" but I'd also make a smock to wear
under it. A tightly laced garment is much more comfortable with soft cloth
between you and it.    

I hope that helps.  I'm going to make the *40 mile* trip it takes me to buy
Simplicity tomorrow, so I'll be able to comment on the construction
metjhods, etc, after I see it.  
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 19:24:19 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908210023.RAA25714@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: That Elizabethan!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 19:50:49 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I found it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They are at Jo-Anns, and they have lots of them. 11.00 each so at half price
that is better than the ebay prices. And if you are lucky to find them at
Hancock's the Simplicity patterns are on sale this weekend for 1.99! :)

I am going to try to make it this weekend to see what is and isn't "right".

I will post details....

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh! It's Celtic Renn!


:
: -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
:
:
: >Has there been a consensus yet on what to do about the sleeves and bodice
: >bottom edge on the Elizabethan yet?
:
:
:
: I haven't seen the actual pattern yet, just the photo.  So I may be
missing
: some things. The sleeves look okay to me. I would make them as a puffed
cap
: sleeve sewn into the bodice, with a close fitted undersleeve attached to
the
: armscye with points so that it could be removed.  How does the pattern
: handle it?
:
: the lower edge of the bodice could be as is, although I'd probably give it
a
: self piping for definition and finish, or it could be finished with a
: skirting or with tabs or looped tabs.  The very long point could be
: shortened and blunted considerably, which would be more flattering for
some
: figures.
:
: They bodice cut doesn't look dreadfully curvy to me, but that may be the
: flat chested model they show it on.  It wouldn't be too difficult to alter
: the curve out. If I did that, I might choose to build the corsetry into
the
: gown by giving it a heavily boned lining rather than a separate corset.
I
: think the neckline is too high;  generally a French bodice is best cut no
: higher than the top of the nipple.   And as we discussed recently, there
: isn't any documentation for French (low necked) bodices that didn't match
: the over skirt.
:
:  Also, the "chemise" on it is basically a
: >dicky. Are any of you 9especially those in the hotter areas) going to
leave
: >it like that, or are you going to make a full chemise?
:
: the "dickey"  is an actual period garment, called a partlet.  They would
: have been worn with a smock (chemise) cut like a t-tunic, with a low
square
: neck that could  just barely show above the neckline of the dress, or it
: could be several inches higher, edged with embroidery or lace, to provide
: more modesty.  A partlet was always worn over this smock style (I'm
speaking
: of upper to noble class, here) whether it was worn open to reveal the
bosom,
: usually by maidens, or closed, by married women.
:
:  Partlets were often elaborately decorated, so making them a seperate
: garment from the smock made sense from a laundry point of view.
:
: So my answer is yes, I'd make the "dickey" but I'd also make a smock to
wear
: under it. A tightly laced garment is much more comfortable with soft cloth
: between you and it.
:
: I hope that helps.  I'm going to make the *40 mile* trip it takes me to
buy
: Simplicity tomorrow, so I'll be able to comment on the construction
: metjhods, etc, after I see it.
: Margo Anderson
: "One Tough Costumer"
: http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 19:51:27 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 20 Aug 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> 
> I have only heard this refered to as a liripipe.
> 
> One of the things I think of when I think of lappets are the flaps that hang down
> the sides of the early-mid Tudor ladies head dresses.  Can't remember what  date
> the quote was from.
Yes, otr the funny flappy bits on the collars of garnaches and the like.
However, given that people carry stuff in them, and the Virgin Mary
seems to be attempting to make some kind of statement by leaving hers off,
it would seem a 'lappe' is quite voluminous.
Here's a thought - could a lappe be an apron?
> 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 20:06:23 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 18:18:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Vintage dance in Palo Alto, CA--Costumes welcome
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-Poster: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>


I cannot believe I am seeing that name, Palo Alto!  I
lived there so many years ago.  I was 8-14.  
Have fun!, I wish I was there!!
I am in Tennessee now, in the boondocks, sigh


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 20:40:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 21:51:52 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


I have to admit the "wench-look" is popular...and one of the reasons
(besides the availability of bodices) it's probably a bit more
predominant in some areas is that there may be a popular Renn.Faire
nearby.  Lots of people can't afford (at least not at first) to buy a
large number of outfits, and if they are interested in both Faire and
SCA they'll go with the Faire look as it's ok for SCA...the reverse
doesn't necessarily apply.

Admittedly, the underbosom look is *horrible* on most people.  But many
of the garbsellers will point out that and the fact that they are
uncomfortable..."and just look.." at what happens if you cover part of
your "assets" and push them together and up!  I can honestly say I don't
know anyone who actually owns one of the "floppy" bodices right
now...but, then again, I do know a couple who fluff themselves a bit too
much and create a little ledge over the bodices.  I've noticed more men
looking at those who create more cleavage and/or can set a tankard down
on top, though...so that's probably influenced some on that subject.


BTW, now I'm finding myself wondering what a-um-"easy" woman who wanted
to flaunt herself and could afford to would have worn in the Henry VIII
- Elizabeth time period.   (not that I'd want to wear such, just curious
as always...)


-Elisabeth
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 02:11:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


   Interesting question - I've read of various "signs" used (sometimes
ordered by
law) in different places and times - a striped shawl, a certain kind of
hood, a
certain color of clothing, certain colors of dyed hair (usually yellow or
red).
Anyone have specifics?

Liadain

> BTW, now I'm finding myself wondering what a-um-"easy" woman who wanted
> to flaunt herself and could afford to would have worn in the Henry VIII
> - Elizabeth time period.   (not that I'd want to wear such, just curious
> as always...)
> 
> 
> -Elisabeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>BTW, now I'm finding myself wondering what a-um-"easy" woman who wanted
>to flaunt herself and could afford to would have worn in the Henry VIII
>- Elizabeth time period. 

She'd probably have done something really shocking and erotic, like wearing
her hair down.  Didn't Anne Boleyn, the hussy, pull that one once, or have I
read too many novels?

>
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 22:18:24 1999
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Subject: RE: H-COST:  Pants -was:Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Carrie Veenstra wrote:

>I've had good luck with the technique of no-pattern pants given here:
>http://www.unm.edu/~kballar/newcomer/pants.html
>
>These are baggies, and the easiest thing to get my newbies into ( 20th
>century ren casual, we call it)
>
>I've also been able to ease some of the guys I sew for over to hose (well,
>fancy cotton lycra tights) after a season or two of faire. ;-)  I have the
>best luck convincing them when their shirt, tunic or doublet falls below
>crotch level by at least 3-4 inches.  Haven't gotten anyone to try the
>really high-hemmed Italian style doublet w/hose combo yet.
>
>For Italian Ren, from what I've seen in paintings & such,  the male
>options are long gown and/or hose, sometimes knee-length TIGHT pants over
>hose, or meeting the hose at the knee...  Pants as modern males tend to
>accept them just don't seem to fit the silhouette for that place & time.
>Hopefully, someone on the list will point out that I'm wrong in this, and
>tell me where else to go look ;->

---

Not being a man, perhaps i'm just hampered mentally (or physically)...

but...

Why would a guy wear a certain upper garment, and not wear a suitable lower
body covering? Certain periods of male upper body coverings just look
*awful* with "baggy pants".

I saw a guy at an SCA Collegium (where classes are taught and people learn
about being more authentic) in a more-or-less Elizabethan doublet with
slashed panels on the sleeves. With it he is wearing a pair of loose pants,
obviously made to go with his doublet, cuz they have matching slashed
panels running down the legs; they come down to his *ankles* (or the tops
of his feet, actually) and have a *lace cuff* there. These are pants of
absolutely no period - what an odd (and ugly) concatenation of styles. I
mean, if he thinks it's "weird" to wear proper Elizabethan men's pants (and
there a variety of shape choices - one doesn't have to wear the little
pumkins), why does he think these ugly pants look good? I'm guessing,
because they *feel* like modern pants?

So, to be constructive and not keep ranting:
If a man won't expose his legs but wants to wear Elizabethan, he *could*
wear Venetians, which are a little full, but not baggy, and come to just
below the knee where they are fitted. They can be worn with "knee socks".
You know, kinda the 16th c. version of knickers, like golfers wore in the
1930's. So, if you (any "you", not some specific listee) are getting guys
into Ren Fair garb, why not suggest Venetians? They aren't hard to make,
aren't all that "weird" looking, don't require wearing tights or much body
exposure, and, i imagine, feel more like modern pants...

Further tracking these thoughts:
Baggy pants just won't look right with a short fitted Italian "doublet" (is
that a cotehardie?) from the late Renaissance. The darn thing was so fitted
and short in order to *show off* the wearer's body. If a guy is shy to show
off his legs, mixing up a short tight "doublet" with baggy pants will just
look awful (ok, so i'm being highly opinionated).

So, if a guy thinks some of historic lower body coverings look too "weird"
for him to wear, he kind of has two options:
(1) if it's SCA (or a similar type of event) he should go with a period
that incorporates some sort of "pants" in which he'd be comfortable and
wear an appropriate upper body garment, rather than mixing and
(mis)matching garments and periods;
--or--
(2) wear a different outfit from the same period that allows him more
"modesty" (for Ren Fairs or trying to match a woman's outfit).

Just my inflammatory thoughts,

Lilinah
not an authenticity fanatic, but wishes for a closer approximation at SCA
and Ren Fair events in which she participates

And don't get me started on all the women who run around Ren Fairs with NO
head covering and their hair loose. Wrong, wrong, wrong - it's like being
half-naked.
(Sigh)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 22:47:40 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Help! I realize this isn't a historical question...

Back in the 1970's when i made most of my clothes, i weighed about 95 lbs,
measured 36-22-36, and had narrow shoulders. Commercially i wore a mix of
3's and 5's and 4' and 6's. Most things were way too loose at the waist
(which i would take in) and snuggy in the hips (which was fashionable
then). They were often too tight in the bust, but bigger sizes fit weird
because the shoulder seams fell down my arms and made it hard to raise my
arms without ripping the garment.

My measurements matched no commercial patterns. I bought patterns by my
clothing size (6) rather than by measurements (which would have put me in a
10 or 12). How the patterns were really sized seemed to vary by company.
Butterick and Vogue always fit fine. Simplicity patterns were always way
too big and required being taken in all over (that aforementioned 2"
someone brought up). McCall's seemed unpredictable - one pattern would fit
fine, another of the same size would be too tight...

I haven't sewn with commercial patterns for a while (like close to 20
years) - just wearing lots of second hand and doing costuming where i draft
my own.

Alas, i am no longer the same size as i was in the '70's. Nevertheless, i'd
like to make some clothes using commercial patterns, but i'm not sure what
size to get. I get the idea that they don't size them the same way they did
in the 70's.

So, do i trust the measurements on the package or go by my off-the-rack
clothing size or some other arcane method? In looking through the pattern
books, i tend to prefer Vogue patterns, although i've seen a few McCall's
that i like...

Thanks in advance...

Lilinah



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 23:38:48 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: "Wench" wear - Oi!
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 21:51:23 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Oh yes!  I can echo this.  I'm from An Tir (Lions Gate), Vancouver, BC
,Canada, for those not in the Society,  and wench is the BIG thing here for
some reason.  The term I have heard for it sometimes is the "missile tit
corset".  Oi!

Zelda
(researching costuming for 1020 to 1050 York, 1567 Spanish, Elizabethan in
general (middle class mostly, but love those royal portraits!)and starting
to look at 1400 to 1500 Netherlands)

>-Poster: Charlotte <charlotte@renaissancewoman.net>
>
>
<snip>
>
>I have to agree with Merouda here.  Here in An Tir, there are far too many
>people
>wearing the tavern wench look.  I have a feeling that part of this is
>because there
>are also a lot of newbies running around and it can be the easiest thing to
>put
>together at first.
>
>My first 2 outfits were both tavern wench outfits.  I even did the Tits on
>a Plate thing,
>before I figured out how to lace my bodice to be comfortable and not make
me
>look like that. (I admit the first time I wore a boned bodice, the only
>thing going through
>my head was "oh my g*d, there's actually a waist in there somewhere!)
>
>I have since "graduated" to wearing surcotes 90% of the time (if the event
>calls for it,
>I will wear the wench stuff... usually only in the evening).  My next
>attempt is going
>to be a houppelande though.
>
>>If we can get them to do this, maybe we can get them in a corset
>>next.  And then
>>a partlet and farthingale.
>
>Hey Merouda... you ever make it up to Vancouver?  I'm trying to get some
>people together to do a fabric
>run through Little India and Dressew's some saturday and then spend the
>rest of saturday and sunday
>making garb :)
>
>Charlotte Madeleine de Courseilles
>
>mka Karla Sexsmith
>in the Barony of Lion's Gate
>Kingdom of An Tir
>mka Vancouver BC Canada
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 20 23:41:04 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 21:51:08 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

I'm not sure if the poster was only interested in cotehardies or the like,
but here's what I did.

When I was pregnant with my youngest I bounced back and forth between the
loose T-Tunics and my italian rens.  Now I think italian rens might be too
late period, for the period specified, but hey...just more info!

The T-tunics were very "A" shaped, with gussets under the arm that made it
*the* thing I wore during the last few weeks.  Since the hem of the garment
was curved (and a little too long anyways) the excess length of the front
was taken up by the baby.  I preferred no belt.

I had two italian rens that had back lacings, and one that was frontclosure
with decorative hook and eye (for breast feeding).  The back laced ones were
still ok since I've seen some documentation for a little gaping in the
closures.  Again, the gowns were too long for me anyways (period), the
excess length in the front was taken up by baby.

The fitted high waisted bodice as a godsend to support the expanding bosum
(and hold the nursing pads in place).  And, of course, the very loose skirts
(with much gathering at the bodice) were wonderful for during and after.
No need to worry about postpartum bulge...I was *supposed* to look that way
in the gowns! *grin*

My chemises had a slit in the center that were long enough to 'shift over'
to the appropriate breast when needed, and full enough that I was reasonably
'decent'.

Anyways, my littlest is 4 Yrs old now...goodness how time flies!

Gia/Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 00:17:29 1999
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-Poster: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>

Dear list members   h-costume@indra.com

Thank you very much for all the help you gave me on my Civil War Dress
problem.  Nothing like asking a few hundred people for help to give all
sorts of things to check out.  I am sure that by the time I am through
checking out these sources the Reference Librarian will hate me ever
more than she does now.

Again thank you!

Yours Stephen Bergdahl


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 01:43:40 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern sizing
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 23:38:33 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-I would take into account the finished garment size over the measurements
to determine clothing size. Usually, if you open the pattern and look at the
instructions it will say something like 'body measurement, plus design ease,
and wear ease.'   Depending on the garment, this could change things a lot.
You can't go by the off the rack size, it wont work at all.
   Michelle

>So, do i trust the measurements on the package or go by my off-the-rack
>clothing size or some other arcane method? In looking through the pattern
>books, i tend to prefer Vogue patterns, although i've seen a few McCall's
>that i like...
>
>Thanks in advance...
>
>Lilinah
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 03:53:15 1999
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Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 05:02:21 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Congrats !


I do 13th C English so my costume is of the period you speak.

To be honest I'm baffled that you think you need a seperate maternity gown
or fancy seaming, the basic 13th C pattern dress form easily accomodates
you right through pregnancy, and believe me I get HUGH !

As for breast feeding ,I found an illustration (don't as me where now as it
was 3 years ago I had the babe)  showing the VM with two slits over each
breast (vertical) these are pleated so that the fall shut unless you
deliberatly open them to feed , it worked really well for me. No velco or
anything is needed if cut correctly. I think in the US you worry more about
the modesty of breast feeding than here in the UK, but I didn't bother with
any other covering to feed, as if you do the baby can get bothered & mess
with the feed (3 children, each over 1 years breast feeding experience :0))


Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 06:25:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern sizing
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

One should always buy patterns by one's measurements.  Ready-to-wear sizes 
are not standardized, but the major pattern company sizes are.  (The 
different company patterns will fit you a bit differently, however.  Each 
uses a slightly different body shape and wearing ease, even though the 
standard measurements are the same.)  Jo-Ann Fabrics has a free leaflet 
available that explains pattern sizes.
Note that some of the smaller companies, like Kwik-Sew, use a different 
system.
Generally, you should buy tops and dresses by your bust measurement and 
skirts or slacks by your hip measurement.  It is easier to alter the waist 
than the hips.
Each company has a "basic fit" pattern--a dress with 2-dart bodice, straight 
skirt, and long sleeve, and hints on fitting.  If you tend towards Vogue, buy 
their basic pattern, make it up in muslin or 1" gingham check (easier to see 
the grain lines) and see how you like the fit.  Then you should pretty much 
be able to translate the alterations necessary to any other Vogue patterns.
I hope this is helpful.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 07:24:13 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908192021.NAA19535@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 12:59:44 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

how about lapels...?
emma
----- Original Message -----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 9:21 PM
Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question


>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> I'm forwarding this from the SCA-West list.  Can someone help this lady?
>
> >O.K, you guys, I need help!  From ms. printed in England in various
> editions from the last decade of the fifteenth century to the first decade
> of the sixteenth century, but from sources (mostly in Latin) from the 13th
> century onward, and written by monks, whose basic uniform is a laundry bag
> (i.e., not fashion wizards);
> >
> >the blessyd virgyn Marye appearyd to hym vysyvly in a whyte garment, that
> lacked bothe sleues & lappes.  Than this monke meruayles and sayd to her,
"
> O moost swete Lady, why haue your vpper clothynge no sleues ne lappes?"
> >
> >
> >>From the Peter Whiteford critical edition of They Myracles of Oure Lady,
> ed from Wynkyn de Worde's edition (Heidelberg: Carl Winter
> Universitatsverlag, 1990), 41.
> >
> >I translated "sleeves and collar," but I'm still a little confused by
> "lappes."  It could refer to any collar, modesty panel or anything else
that
> was on a woman's garment (a woman of modesty and high estate) between 1200
> and 1512.  Any good ideas?  (This is for the final draft of the
dissertation
> so it is time critical).  (Yeah, I know I could do this myself, but why
> spend all that time when I have a mob of experts out there.)
> >
> >Dana/Maythen
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908201913.NAA01191@net.indra.com> <37BE0638.112CE322@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 13:17:54 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Liz
Speaking as a Brit who does Living History in the Tudor period...
Women then did pretty much as women do always - flaunt hwat they have with
varying degrees of subtlety - depending on their personality
Cleavage was a *big* thing.
Where I do LH there is generally a cleavage contest every year (dull, but
hey)
and some of those are *disgusting*.
BTW & on another note, I've read with interest loads of stuff on/by SCA
stuff & am fascinated.  I used to know someone in Ca who did it & loved it -
her name is Sarah Howard & her family are from Davis, she has a sister
called Catherine - if you know her (a long shot I know!) please say hi  from
Emma
Also, you might be interested in a web site of a Brit LH group which is
based at Kentwell Hall in Suffolk
I'll forward the web address if you're interested
Bella

----- Original Message -----
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 1999 2:51 AM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb


>
> -Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
>
>
> I have to admit the "wench-look" is popular...and one of the reasons
> (besides the availability of bodices) it's probably a bit more
> predominant in some areas is that there may be a popular Renn.Faire
> nearby.  Lots of people can't afford (at least not at first) to buy a
> large number of outfits, and if they are interested in both Faire and
> SCA they'll go with the Faire look as it's ok for SCA...the reverse
> doesn't necessarily apply.
>
> Admittedly, the underbosom look is *horrible* on most people.  But many
> of the garbsellers will point out that and the fact that they are
> uncomfortable..."and just look.." at what happens if you cover part of
> your "assets" and push them together and up!  I can honestly say I don't
> know anyone who actually owns one of the "floppy" bodices right
> now...but, then again, I do know a couple who fluff themselves a bit too
> much and create a little ledge over the bodices.  I've noticed more men
> looking at those who create more cleavage and/or can set a tankard down
> on top, though...so that's probably influenced some on that subject.
>
>
> BTW, now I'm finding myself wondering what a-um-"easy" woman who wanted
> to flaunt herself and could afford to would have worn in the Henry VIII
> - Elizabeth time period.   (not that I'd want to wear such, just curious
> as always...)
>
>
> -Elisabeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 10:59:26 1999
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Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 12:04:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Emma write:

<< how about lapels...? >>

Now this might be getting closer.  Check out the "Grand Robe" from the 
treasury at Chelles, France.  The neckline has two narrow, lapel-like bits 
that hang down the front.  They hang down from a narrow collar.  This robe is 
female garb, too.

Nancy (Ingvild)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 11:11:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 09:21:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question
In-Reply-To: <01eb01beebd0$77854460$ce44fad4@xohgoynt>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:59 PM 8/21/99, "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net> wrote: how about
lapels...?emma

----- Original Message -----From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net> To:
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 9:21 PM Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval
Research question
         ... <snip> ... lappes ... .

It was I, Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>, not Margo who sent
the original post to the list, just for accuracy's sake.  I thank all who
have been so generous with your time and expertise thus far. Dana's thesis
defense is scheduled for 9 Sept., so this was the necessity for haste.--Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 11:16:11 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: resizing patterns
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I remember that someone posted a url for a page that talks about resizing
patterns. Can anyone remember this as well and repost that url? It was a few
months ago and I cannot find it in the archives.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 11:18:01 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Flannel Tennis Dress, c. 1891
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 12:11:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Thought you all might enjoy this pattern and picture for a
full length tennis dress on e-bay.  Recommended fabric is
striped flannel!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=15040
0971

Hope H. Dunlap




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 11:30:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:21 AM 08/21/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>At 12:59 PM 8/21/99, "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net> wrote: how about
>lapels...?emma
>
>----- Original Message -----From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net> To:
><h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 9:21 PM Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval
>Research question
>         ... <snip> ... lappes ... .
>
>It was I, Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>, not Margo who sent
>the original post to the list, just for accuracy's sake.

Actually, I sent it too, probably at the same time as you, since they both
showed up in my mailbox in the same download.  Carol, have you forwarded the
responses to Maythen, or should I?

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: Elizabethan Costume Page
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

the Elizabethan Costume section of my website is now up!  Enjoy!

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 09:55:15 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: Medieval Research question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:42 AM 8/21/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>Actually, I sent it too, probably at the same time as you, since they both
>showed up in my mailbox in the same download.  Carol, have you forwarded the
>responses to Maythen, or should I?
          Then my apologies to Emma.  I should imagine we both have been.
I have been sending them as they come in, both from here, the Garb list and
the Apprentice List, plus from various friends worldwide. But
Dana's/Maythen's thesis defense is scheduled for 9 Sept., so I know she's
frantically prep'ping and is grateful for every response.  She asked me to
emphasize that gratitude to everyone who has responded.  -- Carol
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

Thanks to all those who responded to my post. I think I'll be able to come
up with something for the next two years that will work.

I have been wondering what medieval women did. I'm sure not all of them
passed their kids off to wet nurses and for that matter what did wet nurses
wear?

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 14:47:48 1999
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From: "Lester D Mundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19990819153105.0369e410@mail.canfield.com><37BCAB9B.6DE8@netwiz.net> <4.2.0.58.19990820112643.009a4220@mail.stockgroup.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kirby Hall
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-Poster: "Lester D Mundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

So how did those that attended get on;
Wether as participants or as public ?
I never managed to get there; so would like to know.
Dave
L.D.Mundy 
Editor.Heritage Matters
 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 15:22:59 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I find that if I go by bust size alone for a top pattern, it falls off
my shoulders and fits badly.  If you are bigger than a b-cup, you do
better to go by shoulder size, or try a pattern that has multi-sizes.  I
need a 12 with a bust adjustment, not a 16 that needs shoulder and
armhole changes!  A lot of busty women have comparatively narrow
shoulders, but the pattern makers seem to think our shoulders expand as
we do!  I costume large ladies who come in all sorts of shapes: "wall"
to "apple" to "everything in front".
-- 
Janice Dallas
Arlington, MA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 15:53:53 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #495
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com


Merouda wrote:

 'I am not so
much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so much out
there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self respecting woman 
of
any class in history until the 20th century would have let her bosom hang out
like that.  Never.  Even poor and "available" tavern wenches would have had a
more modest bodice.  Now they might have loosened the laces etc... but nothing
even close to our current blasphemy.  *g*  A tasteful and well dressed lady is
always sexy and there's no need to go letting it all hang out.'

I would argue that no self-respecting woman of the TWENTIETH century would do 
it, either. I don't know what makes ordinarily (or so one assumes) normal 
women think that this looks either attractive or respectable. I know I am 
risking being accused of insensitivity or intolerance, but let's face it, 
that's exactly what I think when I see someone in that kind of outfit. And I 
think that perhaps many of the women who wear them don't KNOW other people 
feel that way -- for some reason, they think it's attractive and sexy.

Around here (Ohio), a couple of years ago the fashion was to wear these 
outfits with a FLOWER sticking out of your cleavage. Daring someone to pick 
it, I suppose. At least that one isn't around anymore.

And let me emphasize that I am not talking about the tavern wench look 
GENERALLY, just the practically exposed breasts thing.

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 16:50:54 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: pattern sizing
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is exactly why Threads Magazine is so cool.  They even go into
manipulation for dowager humps.

-----Original Message-----
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, August 21, 1999 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: pattern sizing


>
>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>I find that if I go by bust size alone for a top pattern, it falls off
>my shoulders and fits badly.  If you are bigger than a b-cup, you do
>better to go by shoulder size, or try a pattern that has multi-sizes.  I
>need a 12 with a bust adjustment, not a 16 that needs shoulder and
>armhole changes!  A lot of busty women have comparatively narrow
>shoulders, but the pattern makers seem to think our shoulders expand as
>we do!  I costume large ladies who come in all sorts of shapes: "wall"
>to "apple" to "everything in front".
>--
>Janice Dallas
>Arlington, MA
>JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
>"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 16:53:15 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

> Merouda-

> What about the 18th c. wenches in the "Rake's Progress?"  Their boobs are
> hanging out of their bodices in a few of the pics I believe, but I'm thinking
> specifically of the scene where the Rake is being robbed at the tavern.

~Lisa

> >it is the fact that no self respecting woman of any class in history until the
> 20th century would have let her bosom hang out
> >like that.  Never.  Even poor and "available" tavern wenches would have had a
> more modest bodice.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 16:58:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 17:10:26 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Merouda wrote:
> 
>  'I am not so
> much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so
> much out there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self
> respecting woman of any class in history until the 20th century would
> have let her bosom hang out like that.  Never.  <snip>

What about the Minoans and the virgins of Queen Elizabeth I's court?  I
was under the impression that both wore clothing which revealed the
nipple if not the entire bust.

> 
> I would argue that no self-respecting woman of the TWENTIETH century
> would do it, either. I don't know what makes ordinarily (or so one
> assumes) normal women think that this looks either attractive or
> respectable. I know I am risking being accused of insensitivity or
> intolerance, but let's face it, that's exactly what I think when I see
> someone in that kind of outfit. And I think that perhaps many of the
> women who wear them don't KNOW other people feel that way -- for some
> reason, they think it's attractive and sexy.

Or perhaps it's because it makes *them* feel attractive and sexy.  
 
> Around here (Ohio), a couple of years ago the fashion was to wear
> these outfits with a FLOWER sticking out of your cleavage. Daring
> someone to pick it, I suppose. At least that one isn't around anymore.
> 
> And let me emphasize that I am not talking about the tavern wench look
> GENERALLY, just the practically exposed breasts thing.

You might consider this also...when I was in school our skirts were not
allowed to be above halfway down our thighs.  I kept getting called to
the office because my skirts were "too short"....they weren't...I just
have very, very long thighs and it looks that way.  I know that when I'm
wearing a front laced dress with a chemise that it's sitting a good inch
if not two away from my areolas but I've been accused of "almost showing
nipple".  Not everyone is built the same and while I am *positive* that
some of these women are pushing the envelope, it may be that some of
them are just large.  When I married my husband I weighed 115#, stood
5'8" and wore a 32 DD bra.  It didn't take much for me to look like I
was wearing next to nothing even when I was wearing more proportionately
than the other women around me.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 20:09:16 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: To Bustle or Not to Bustle
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 21:18:20 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I just finished an article from an 1886 Delineator magazine.  I featured
nine dresses from the issue.  Reading the commentary on the dresses, I
discovered that the magazine suggests that some of the dresses could be worn
with a bustle or without a bustle.  The bustle was making a bouffant style
at this time.  I thought the decline of bustle usage was in 1889 or 1890.
Were magazines trying to get rid of the bustle as early as 1886?  I realize
that women spent nearly three decades in some type of hoop and were probably
sick of it at this point.  Has anyone else seen documentation of the decline
of the bustle this early?  What was the year  that a bustle was not
fashionable?  You can find the article at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Delineator/June_1886/Ladies_Costumes.htm

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 21:30:23 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 06:04 PM 8/21/99 -0400, martyr@gti.net wrote:
>> Merouda-
>
>> What about the 18th c. wenches in the "Rake's Progress?"  Their boobs are
>> hanging out of their bodices in a few of the pics I believe, but I'm thinking
>> specifically of the scene where the Rake is being robbed at the tavern.
>
>~Lisa
[snip]

Ah, but there's the rub! Eighteenth century "tavern wench" dress of this
sort (on <probable> prostitutes) does *not* provide documentation for 16th
Century (or earlier) outfits on similarly situated females. And the
illustration is of an *indoor* scene, not someplace on the street.
Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 21:58:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th century pregnant women and nursing women
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I have been wondering what medieval women did. I'm sure not all of them
>passed their kids off to wet nurses and for that matter what did wet nurses
>wear?

Not all of them passed them off to wet nurses. Most of the pictures show
the woman popping the breast out the top of the gown, sometimes they
loosened a front lacing to do so... However popping the breast out of the
top of a gown is a bit harder to be discreet in  compared to some of the
other suggestions. In medieval times they didn't care.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 21 23:11:27 1999
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-Poster: Cruthf@aol.com

please unsubsribe me, will be out of town for a week 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 01:36:25 1999
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>


A friend of mine, faced with a hungry infant and noone around to help her out of her laces, put sidewise slits in her chemise with a knife and let the child nurse through an armhole. She sewed up the chemise when the child was weaned. She said she later found evidence that this was one way nursing mothers had managed.
Carol<BR>Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild<hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>Bid and sell for free at <a href="http://auctions.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Auctions</a>.<br>

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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Merouda wrote:
>> I am not so
>>much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so much out
>>there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self respecting
>>woman of
>>any class in history until the 20th century would have let her bosom hang out
>>like that.  Never.  Even poor and "available" tavern wenches would have had a
>>more modest bodice.  Now they might have loosened the laces etc... but
>>nothing
>>even close to our current blasphemy.  *g*  A tasteful and well dressed
>>lady is
>>always sexy and there's no need to go letting it all hang out.'

Gail Finke wrote:
>I would argue that no self-respecting woman of the TWENTIETH century would do
>it, either. I don't know what makes ordinarily (or so one assumes) normal
>women think that this looks either attractive or respectable. I know I am
>risking being accused of insensitivity or intolerance, but let's face it,
>that's exactly what I think when I see someone in that kind of outfit. And I
>think that perhaps many of the women who wear them don't KNOW other people
>feel that way -- for some reason, they think it's attractive and sexy.

It's 'cuz so many hetero guys are attracted to, ahem, exposed mammery
flesh. Guys may not "respect" the woman who is so exposed, but many will
sure be "attracted" to her. Ergo, the woman so undressed is "attractive",
i.e., is one who attracts attention.

>Around here (Ohio), a couple of years ago the fashion was to wear these
>outfits with a FLOWER sticking out of your cleavage. Daring someone to pick
>it, I suppose. At least that one isn't around anymore.

Well, at Northern California, the thing has been to have live rats in one's
bodice, poking there heads out of the cleavage. (Shrug) Rats are decent
pets, but i wouldn't want to expose them to the extreme heat of combined
weather and, errr, body heat, poor little things.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 02:18:33 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Cleavage
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 01:34:41 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

It is important that those of us who always seem to be helping newcomers
choose their garb, also help define 'cleavage'.  Cleavage today is, well,
out there for everyone to see.  Elizabethan cleavage was more subtle.  I
seem to remember a description somewhere describing it as a gentle
swelling, as opposed to the avalanche of flesh you often see.

It brings to mind an early impression of what 'beautiful' was to me as a
little girl.  I always thought that Marilyn Monroe was beautiful, but I
felt embarrassed for Jane Mansfield.  Pamela Anderson Lee, embarrassing,
Sophia Loren, beautiful. Raquel Welsh started embarrassing, ended up
beautiful.  Maybe drawing such modern parallels would help people get the
picture.  Beauty and sexy are more about what you don't see.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 02:20:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 00:31:50 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Request for What to Tell Newcomers about How to Dress and Act
  in the Medieval Period (ca. 500-1550)
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   I know the conventional wisdom seems to be : T-tunic and trews or some
variety.  I've already got a long list of my own, but I'd like to solicit
your thoughts.  This man doesn't have a clue who/when he wants to be, how
to go about choosing a persona, how to attire/equip himself, nor about
manners/customs in the SCA, BUT he's intelligent.  He's asking beforehand.
He & I will appreciate it if you would lend your advice and expertise.
Many, many thanks in advance.  Carol / Gra/inne, in the SCA   PS If anyone
has the contact info. for the appropriate Seneschal/Chatelaine for the
group local to Taunton, NJ, please send that to me PRIVATELY, NOT to the list.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 08:19:52 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wench bosoms
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 08:34:27 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

At a Ren Faire last year I saw a few large breasted women that chose to
wear their "wench" blouses in a way that was a little disturbing to me
(of-course,
it's just my opinion, but I still have the image in my head). The fabric
was a natural gauze and the "push up" was under the breasts, the breasts
hung over the push-up element of the costume (a laced up vest or bodice)
like empty, floppy water sacks, which was not appealing under the thin
gauze. Oh-yes, they didn't have anything on under the blouse so you could
see nipple. Not at all appealing and a little tacky, in my opinion.

Another "look" I see a lot around here is the "wench" women tucking random
parts of their skirts and petticoats up in a belt and hanging lots of stuff
around their waist, hems, etc. It seems to borderline fantasy, but they
appear to be doing it for the Ren look. 

Then there was the lady in a BRIGHT red dress with black accents, i.e.
belt, stockings, ribbons..........seemed she should be in an early American
reenactment as a barroom gal.

> >  for some
> > reason, they think it's attractive and sexy.
> 
> Or perhaps it's because it makes *them* feel attractive and sexy.  

That's probably very true and very important that they feel good about
themselves, but sometimes I wish women would look a little more closely in
the mirror before leaving the house.
  
> > Around here (Ohio), a couple of years ago the fashion was to wear
> > these outfits with a FLOWER sticking out of your cleavage. Daring
> > someone to pick it, I suppose. At least that one isn't around anymore.

I see that a lot around here, but now I'm beginning to see "henna tattoos"
on the top of the breast. I don't think they did that.

> You might consider this also...when I was in school our skirts were not
> allowed to be above halfway down our thighs.  I kept getting called to
> the office because my skirts were "too short"....
> Kat

Oh, you're young!!! Our skirts had to be at the top of the knee!

Amanda
Texas

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 09:03:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 10:16:29 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: bezants?
References: <199908140348.VAA15912@net.indra.com> <37B6FE86.7811@enteract.com> <37B99374.C566252C@serv.net>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I'm going to make houppelandes of the sort that have one sleeve only
decorated with hanging bezants.  I found a source for something that
looks fairly close to some of the items in the Museum of London books --
they are non-coin danglies meant for belly dancing outfits.

Most of the ones you can buy look like some kind of middle-eastern coin,
or have poky, jagged edges (on purpose.)  These are different; just
under the size of an american quarter, and have a small wire ring
soldierd on; they come in brass or white metal, about $12/100 coins.  I
got mine from The Pillaged Village.

Regards,
Cynthia
-----
"A cow is a dairy product!"  - Sherman's Lagoon
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 09:22:01 1999
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 07:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> I see that a lot around here, but now I'm beginning
> to see "henna tattoos"
> on the top of the breast. I don't think they did
> that.


Actually, henna tattoos were used most everywhere one
could imagine at times, but NOT for anything
medieval...  

The History Channel has been doing a series called the
"History of Sex" and the other night's was about sex
in the middle east and the orient and how it differed
from the European thought.  The "harems" would use the
henna tattoos....

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 11:46:53 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST:  Review of the New Simplicity Elizabethan Pattern
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I bought the new Simplicity "Shakespeare In Love" pattern yesterday.  I was
very surprised to find that my final review of it is that it's FABULOUS!!!

First, the negatives:  The fabric choices recommended are very limited, and
innapropriate for the period, such as silk shantung, which would of course
be too slubbed.  They have the bodice made in a fabric matching the
forepart, where it should match the overskirt and sleeve caps. Both of these
problems relate to the pattern being a copy of the movie costume, of course. 

The bodice is cut with too much curve at the front, and the neckline is too
high.  Both are easily fixable, as is the extremely long, curved center
front point, which is period but quite late.  Making it shorter and less
pronounced would work best for most bodies and would bring the gown into a
wider time period.  

The good news is that this pattern is an absolutely top notch tutorial in
making an elaborate costume using traditional high level theatrical
technique.  So often, home sewing technique gets applied to costumes, making
them more difficult to sew and less attractive looking.  This is the first
commercial pattern I've ever seen that treats the subject the way it should
be done. 

Here's some examples:

The bum roll is mounted on a shaped hip yoke, which will keep it from
sliding out of place and give more support to the heavy skirts.

The farthingale is the accurate shape.  The wasitband teaches the method of
sandwiching the upper edge between two pieces of grosgrain ribbon to make a
flat, sturdy band.  

The underskirt is made of taffeta, to allow the overskirt to move freely.
The forepart is of brocade, and instructions are given for highligting the
pattern with a metallic paint pen and gluing pearls.

The overskirt is cartridge pleated onto the same waistband as the
underskirt, eliminating bulk. Not a period practice, but practical.  

The bodice has a double layer of muslin flatlining, with channels stitched
for boning.  the entire front is solidly boned.  This technique results in a
virtual built in corset.  (They recommend featherboning or Rigeline.  My
past experience tells me feather boning is a terrible choice, Rigeline might
work.  I would probably use flat steel boning.)  The bodice edges are
finished with piping, and the piping seam allowances are turned to the
inside and slipstitched down to finish the edges so that no turning is
neccesary.  It fastens up the back with hooks and eyes, although lacing
could also be used.  

The sleeves are the correct shape, but I would change the construction,
making the false puff at the upper arm into a seperately made cap sleeve,
and using the straight sleeve pattern to make a detachable sleeve tied into
the armscye.  I'm not sure from the diagrams, but I believe the sleeve may
have a self gusset built in at the underarm.  

The partlet is cut to fit closely into the neck edge, bound with twill tape,
and has snaps to hold it in.  For authenticity and ease of construction, I'd
probably cut it as a simple rectangle several inches larger than the
neckline and hold it in with pins, if necessary.  

The neck and wrist ruffs are cartridge pleated.  I don't believe this was as
common a method as many would have us think,  but I won't quibble about its
use here.  They are made out of picot-edged ribbon, so that the picot loops
on the edge can be used to count the pleats while cartridge pleating them.  

One thing the pattern lacks is a hat.  the "Shakespeare In Love" dress was
worn with a diadem/wreath of golden leaves, but the pattern shows it with a
gold headband, not an adequate substitute.

All in all, I'm delighted by this pattern. The next time there's a $.99
pattern sale, I'm going to buy about 20 of this one to hand out to the
students in my Elizabethan costume class.  I will, of course, write up an
addendum page explaining how to make the necessary changes, and I'll put it
on my website as soon as it's done.
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 12:49:04 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: those patterns again...
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 11:02:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I can't find the Elizabethan pattern anywhere.  I checked Joann's, Hancock's
and Wal-Mart.  I found the Celtic and Rennaisance ones but not the
Elizabethan one.


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 12:50:33 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Winter and Savoy
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 11:04:08 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Hi all,

Having never attempted Elizabethan wear, I was wondering how accurate the
book by Winter and Savoy is as far as creating Elizabethan clothes?


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 13:08:42 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: those patterns again...
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:02 AM 08/22/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>I can't find the Elizabethan pattern anywhere.  I checked Joann's, Hancock's
>and Wal-Mart.  I found the Celtic and Rennaisance ones but not the
>Elizabethan one.
>
Joan, aren't you in the Sacramento area?  I found it yesterday at the
Joanne's on Folsom, near Zinfandel.  It was in the Halloween display near
the costumes, not back in the pattern section.

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 13:14:56 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 14:34:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

These paintings support the "pop it over the top" attitude.
Some show lacing at center front eased open slightly,
indicating that unlacing for nursing was not really
necessary, but that the neckline was
stressed a little doing it this way.

1435 Van Der Weyden
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden19.htm
 ?       Van der Weyden
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden22.htm
      ?       Van der Weyden
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden18.htm
1400's Jan van Eyck
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/eyck/p-eyck15.
	1400's Campin		http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/c/p-campin4.htm

No nursing taking place in this one,
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/unknown/p-unknow28.htmbut the
Luttrell Psalter shows a a man being armed by his wife and
daughter, each dressed in cotehardie and one (at least) in
sideless surcote, c. 12th Century, (although I think the
Luttrell Psalter actually dates from a few centuries later).
It's an exquisite image, so I sneak it in whenever I can!
It is easy to imagine nursing access under the sideless
surcote to openings in the 10-gore dress.  Note the
similarities in cutting lines with the first image on the
10-gore dress site (for those who missed it, at
http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm).

Putting lacing over each breast slit on the undergown is
unnecessary, as someone pointed out. It can be documented,
but its unnecessary.  For the standard 4-part shift gathered
to a neckline the following adjustment produces dandy
nursing slits.  Cut the front up to a foot wider than usual
if you can, but it's not entirely necessary if the smock
pattern you use is roomy to begin with.  The technique is to
lay out the wide shift front on the floor flat, then make a
very deep vertical pleat over each breast about 3-4" deep
(measured in the horizontal direction).  It doesn't really
matter which way the pleat goes--I've seen it both ways--but
I prefer the top of the pleats pointing out towards the
arms.  The inside deepest part of the pleat is sliced open
starting at the top of th breast down to a little above
waist level and finished with a self hem.  Baste the pleat
firmly in place at the neckline. Then neckline is gathered
into a band, smocked, whatever, to make it fit the desired
neckline size.  The pleat becomes undifferentiable from the
gathers , and doesn't fall open accidently.  The user will
ofen have trouble finding it!  And no lacing is required.
Access is easy a long as you can find it.  The same
technique in both undergown and overgown will never
accidently reveal.  Modern nursing nightgowns are made in
this manner.  Sorry, I haven't tried to  document it back to
any historic period.

Center slits on all styles of smocks is an easier and
documentable  solution for almost everyperiod,  but you end
up revealing more of yourself during nursing, which isn't
everyone's preference. Lacing not required in the center
front opening of a smock, just a tie at the top or button of
some kind, or nothing if you're in the corset period,
because the corset holds it in place.

Hope H. Dunlap


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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: those patterns again...
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 11:31:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Yes, I am, Roseville.  I checked the Jo-Ann's on Douglas Blvd and the
Hancock's on Auburn.  Maybe they just don't have them in the display yet.
I'll just have to keep checking back.  Thanks.


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:04 AM 08/22/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Having never attempted Elizabethan wear, I was wondering how accurate the
>book by Winter and Savoy is as far as creating Elizabethan clothes?
>

It's a good starter. They use too much home-sewing technique for my tastes.
As I said earlier today, the Simplicity pattern will give you a good
grounding in costume technique.  

 I'd skip the corset section and use Drea's pattern generator.  

Some of the errors that stand out are that they show men's doublets with
back lacing, which I believe is a theatrical invention.  Upperclass women's
overskirts were not fastened to their underskirts with ribbon points.  They
say that a partlet is a woman's high necked chemise, which it is not.  The
partlet is the dickey like fill in, the high necked chemise is a chemise,
smock, or may have been called a shirt.  

The book gives the impression that the upperclass overskirt and bodice were
always seperate garments, which is not the case.  

The instructions for converting a darted pattern to an undarted one result
in a distorted armhole/neckline area in a low necked bodice, and verge on
the unwearable for the high necked bodice.  The low necked bodice problem
can be solved by making up a test garment according to their instructions
and either darting the neckline or inserting a gusset, then tracing the
resultant shape for a new pattern.  the high necked version will need a
shaping seam running from shoulder to waist for most bodies over an A cup.  

Thy make much use of a standard modern straight sleeve pattern with an
underarm seam, but most fitted Elizabethan sleeves will look and feel better
if you use a two piece curved coat sleeve pattern.

they recommend grommets for lacing, which are, of course, out of period.
Either make sewn eyelets or oversew the grommets.

I still think the book is useful for those starting out with Elizabethans,
if only for its clear and concise, "you can do it" attitude.  Without this
book to get me started, I might not be where I am today.  





Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 13:45:52 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 12:02:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I was quite amused!  Everyone of these nursing mothers are using their right
breast.  Do ya think that they might be lopsided?

-----Original Message-----
From: Hope H. Dunlap <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, August 22, 1999 11:29 AM
Subject: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art


>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>These paintings support the "pop it over the top" attitude.
>Some show lacing at center front eased open slightly,
>indicating that unlacing for nursing was not really
>necessary, but that the neckline was
>stressed a little doing it this way.
>
>1435 Van Der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden19.htm
> ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden22.htm
>      ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden18.htm
>1400's Jan van Eyck
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/eyck/p-eyck15.
> 1400's Campin http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/c/p-campin4.htm
>
>No nursing taking place in this one,
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/unknown/p-unknow28.htmbut the
>Luttrell Psalter shows a a man being armed by his wife and
>daughter, each dressed in cotehardie and one (at least) in
>sideless surcote, c. 12th Century, (although I think the
>Luttrell Psalter actually dates from a few centuries later).
>It's an exquisite image, so I sneak it in whenever I can!
>It is easy to imagine nursing access under the sideless
>surcote to openings in the 10-gore dress.  Note the
>similarities in cutting lines with the first image on the
>10-gore dress site (for those who missed it, at
>http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm).
>
>Putting lacing over each breast slit on the undergown is
>unnecessary, as someone pointed out. It can be documented,
>but its unnecessary.  For the standard 4-part shift gathered
>to a neckline the following adjustment produces dandy
>nursing slits.  Cut the front up to a foot wider than usual
>if you can, but it's not entirely necessary if the smock
>pattern you use is roomy to begin with.  The technique is to
>lay out the wide shift front on the floor flat, then make a
>very deep vertical pleat over each breast about 3-4" deep
>(measured in the horizontal direction).  It doesn't really
>matter which way the pleat goes--I've seen it both ways--but
>I prefer the top of the pleats pointing out towards the
>arms.  The inside deepest part of the pleat is sliced open
>starting at the top of th breast down to a little above
>waist level and finished with a self hem.  Baste the pleat
>firmly in place at the neckline. Then neckline is gathered
>into a band, smocked, whatever, to make it fit the desired
>neckline size.  The pleat becomes undifferentiable from the
>gathers , and doesn't fall open accidently.  The user will
>ofen have trouble finding it!  And no lacing is required.
>Access is easy a long as you can find it.  The same
>technique in both undergown and overgown will never
>accidently reveal.  Modern nursing nightgowns are made in
>this manner.  Sorry, I haven't tried to  document it back to
>any historic period.
>
>Center slits on all styles of smocks is an easier and
>documentable  solution for almost everyperiod,  but you end
>up revealing more of yourself during nursing, which isn't
>everyone's preference. Lacing not required in the center
>front opening of a smock, just a tie at the top or button of
>some kind, or nothing if you're in the corset period,
>because the corset holds it in place.
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

    Every one of these nursing moms are using their right breast.  Do ya
think that they might be lopsided?  ;) I was highly amused!

   I wasn't able to see the last picture (sunsite).  I was told that it was
removed to update...

>1435 Van Der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden19.htm
> ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden22.htm
>      ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden18.htm
>1400's Jan van Eyck
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/eyck/p-eyck15.
> 1400's Campin http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/c/p-campin4.htm
>
>No nursing taking place in this one,
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/unknown/p-unknow28.htmbut the
>Luttrell Psalter shows a a man being armed by his wife and
>daughter, each dressed in cotehardie and one (at least) in
>sideless surcote, c. 12th Century, (although I think the
>Luttrell Psalter actually dates from a few centuries later).


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 15:24:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Sorry, my text got sucked into the active URL .  Here it is
again correctly:
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/unknown/p-unknow28.htm  The
Luttrell psaltar with the sideless surcotes and cotehardies.

 Hope H. Dunlap

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Michelle
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 1999 3:07 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
>
>
>
>
>
>    I wasn't able to see the last picture (sunsite).  I was
> told that it was
> removed to update...
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 14:44:05 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 19:49:40 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

It's important to note the differences, as well as the similarities,
between these pictures:

>1435 Van Der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden19.htm

The 'neckcloth' looks as though it might also have been her hair
covering, or a layer of her hair covering. Of all the pictures, this
one clearly shows (exept for what is obscured by her hand) that 'flop
over the top and nurse' technique.

> ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden22.htm

The Virgin is shown wearing non-contemporary, antique, or allegorical
dress. It looks as though she is intended to be shown in garments
similar to those worn by religious statuary. That said, it appears
that she is simply nursing thru the vertical slit portion of a high
keyhole-cut neck opening. Similar to the flop over the top, but
somewhat different in implementation, and possibly easier and more
comfortable. Certainly a good suggestion for those who wear any period
of clothing with a keyhole cut neckline.

>      ?       Van der Weyden
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa//weyden/p-weyden18.htm

This Virgin is wearing a loose, v-neck houppelande, belted high under
the breasts. It is worn over a red kirtle and a shift. The houppelande
is simply pulled aside enough to permit some loosening of the laces of
the kirtle, and the kirtle and shift are pulled aside enough to allow
the breast to be moved to position that is workable for nursing. There
is no evidence of a neckcloth. This is probably the most
contemporarily dressed of all teh ladies discussed.

>1400's Jan van Eyck
>http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/eyck/p-eyck15.

This appears to be a mixture of contemporary (her sleeves) and
classical/antique/allegorical dress. Very little information can be
gleaned from this painting, as the Virgin is covered so nearly
completely (perhaps to suggest a seemly modesty) by her cloak. She
also both supports her breast and hides her immodesty with her hand in
such a way that we cannot tell, in this reproduction, how her gown is
fastened, if it has a fastening at all. THis picture is inconclusive
as far as nursing access technique is concerned.

>	1400's Campin		http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/c/p-campin4.htm

This Virgin is dressed very interestingly. It looks as though she is
wearing some sort of wrapped-style [1]fur-lined overgown or
houppelande (inferred from the corners on the front skirt edge as well
as the vertical edge laying over the Virgin's lap with nowhere
explicable to go except up, although this may simply be a strangely
drawn drapery) wit a high neck. She seems to be wearing a kirtle of
the same hue with a decorated hem, with very tight dark blue sleeves
probably pinned on underneath. The shift appears to  have a similar
high neck and vertical opening from the high neck. They appear to have
been simply pulled aside, but we cannot see the kirtle due to the way
the fabric of the overgown and the shift have bunched, as well as the
way the Child and the Virgin's hand are posed. It is inconclusive as
to whether she has 'flopped' or unlaced to gain nursing access.

Margery

[1] I've seen this sort of wrap-front dress (which the odd drapery
leads me to believe this might possibly be) in only one place, which
is the illustration on the cover of 'A History of Private Life, vol
II, Revelations of the Medieval World' Aries & Duby, eds. The ladies
in attendance on the couple depicted as the focal point of the
illustration are wearing a wrap-front gown which may be a casual way
to wear a later form of houppelande. Has anyone seen similar
depictions of this way of wearing this dress?
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

This site:
http://www.breastfeeding.com/artgallery.html
has an art gallery which includes "antiquity through the 17th century";
"art of the 17th and 18th century" and "modern art".  This is one of the
sites that I use when first researching nursing outfits after my son was
born.

Kat
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 8/22/99 3:00:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Margo 
Anderson@indra.com writes:

<< From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 09:57:53 -0700 (PDT)
 Subject: H-COST:  Review of the New Simplicity Elizabethan Pattern
 
 - -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 
 I bought the new Simplicity "Shakespeare In Love" pattern yesterday.  I was
 very surprised to find that my final review of it is that it's FABULOUS!!!
 
 First, the negatives:  The fabric choices recommended are very limited, and
 innapropriate for the period, such as silk shantung, which would of course
 be too slubbed.  They have the bodice made in a fabric matching the
 forepart, where it should match the overskirt and sleeve caps. Both of these
 problems relate to the pattern being a copy of the movie costume, of course. 
 
 The bodice is cut with too much curve at the front, and the neckline is too
 high.  Both are easily fixable, as is the extremely long, curved center
 front point, which is period but quite late.  Making it shorter and less
 pronounced would work best for most bodies and would bring the gown into a
 wider time period.  
 
 The good news is that this pattern is an absolutely top notch tutorial in
 making an elaborate costume using traditional high level theatrical
 technique.  So often, home sewing technique gets applied to costumes, making
 them more difficult to sew and less attractive looking.  This is the first
 commercial pattern I've ever seen that treats the subject the way it should
 be done. 
 
 Here's some examples:
 
 The bum roll is mounted on a shaped hip yoke, which will keep it from
 sliding out of place and give more support to the heavy skirts.
 
 The farthingale is the accurate shape.  The wasitband teaches the method of
 sandwiching the upper edge between two pieces of grosgrain ribbon to make a
 flat, sturdy band.  
 
 The underskirt is made of taffeta, to allow the overskirt to move freely.
 The forepart is of brocade, and instructions are given for highligting the
 pattern with a metallic paint pen and gluing pearls.
 
 The overskirt is cartridge pleated onto the same waistband as the
 underskirt, eliminating bulk. Not a period practice, but practical.  
 
 The bodice has a double layer of muslin flatlining, with channels stitched
 for boning.  the entire front is solidly boned.  This technique results in a
 virtual built in corset.  (They recommend featherboning or Rigeline.  My
 past experience tells me feather boning is a terrible choice, Rigeline might
 work.  I would probably use flat steel boning.)  The bodice edges are
 finished with piping, and the piping seam allowances are turned to the
 inside and slipstitched down to finish the edges so that no turning is
 neccesary.  It fastens up the back with hooks and eyes, although lacing
 could also be used.  
 
 The sleeves are the correct shape, but I would change the construction,
 making the false puff at the upper arm into a seperately made cap sleeve,
 and using the straight sleeve pattern to make a detachable sleeve tied into
 the armscye.  I'm not sure from the diagrams, but I believe the sleeve may
 have a self gusset built in at the underarm.  
 
 The partlet is cut to fit closely into the neck edge, bound with twill tape,
 and has snaps to hold it in.  For authenticity and ease of construction, I'd
 probably cut it as a simple rectangle several inches larger than the
 neckline and hold it in with pins, if necessary.  
 
 The neck and wrist ruffs are cartridge pleated.  I don't believe this was as
 common a method as many would have us think,  but I won't quibble about its
 use here.  They are made out of picot-edged ribbon, so that the picot loops
 on the edge can be used to count the pleats while cartridge pleating them.  
 
 One thing the pattern lacks is a hat.  the "Shakespeare In Love" dress was
 worn with a diadem/wreath of golden leaves, but the pattern shows it with a
 gold headband, not an adequate substitute.
 
 All in all, I'm delighted by this pattern. The next time there's a $.99
 pattern sale, I'm going to buy about 20 of this one to hand out to the
 students in my Elizabethan costume class.  I will, of course, write up an
 addendum page explaining how to make the necessary changes, and I'll put it
 on my website as soon as it's done.
 Margo Anderson
 "One Tough Costumer"
 http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm >>

Margo, 

Thank you, thank you, and THANK YOU for the assessment of this pattern!!  I 
am so thrilled that someone bothered to actually look at and assess the 
*pattern* rather than just sniping about using Janet Arnold or drafting ones' 
own.  (I also hope you send that feedback to Simplicity, so they are 
encouraged to try reproducing more patterns that are based in history rather 
than Hollywood or fantasy.....)

I also bought the pattern and have gone over it.  I found most of the same 
things you did (and your assessment makes me want to go back and look again 
for what I missed).   

Again, thanks for the review of the positives and negatives--when you get 
that up on your website I'll be using it as a reference for people who want 
to start Elizabethan, but don't know where......... 

~Morghana

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A RECENT H-COSTUME THREAD, OR, MORE THAN YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT LEINES

Here's what I saved from the last time we went through this.  

>I'm looking for citations to refute the idea that 16th century Irish leines
had those huge sleeves that are popular in ren Faire circles.  You know the
ones:  they are usually pleated, gathered, or have a drawstring sewn into
them.  Striking as they are, I'm under the impression that they are a
costume myth, mainly based on  misinterpreting a drawing or painting of a
wide, open sleeve pushed up on the wearer's arm to form folds of fabric.
>
>Margo Anderson

>-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>
>I'd suggest you go to
>http://reconstructinghistory.com/fenians/IrishClothes.htm I'm pretty sure
>that Kass may monitor this mailing list and so might interject. Thought I'd
>say that I was at a talk she gave last week where my favorite thing she said
>was that she wanted to cry when it was lunch time and ask someone to feed
>her so she didn't have to wash off the 300+ year old dust from her hands.
>
>Anyway, she has been to Ireland and the bowels of some museums there
>recently. Her new notes on the Shinrone gown and Leines are there.
>Basically, the bag sleeves are very much correct. HOWEVER, what is incorrect
>is the concept of pleats or drawstrings on the upper arm. To describe the
>sleeve in words, it would be shoulder to wrist length on the top of the arm
>and bagged at the underside. She has drawings at the URL mentioned above.
>
>Also, she was very helpful and would probably answer any questions sent via
>email in case she doesn't read this mailing list.
>

>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>The use of drawstrings is something I can't comment on, but
>period writings and illustrations definitely support lots of
>fabric, pleats and more pleats.  Huge, droopy sleeves to the
>hip, knee, or ankle show up a lot, but jackets cover up the
>sleeve  in many old illustrations, leaving us to guess
>precisely what was underneath. The Lucas de Heere
>watercolors, circa 1570, show  bag-style leine sleeves down
>to the ankle or knee, or just to the hip, depending on which
>painting you're looking at.  The people certainly didn't
>wear the huge sleeve for everything, nor did all people
>appear to wear it, but there they are. Period writings
>mention the volume of fabric, the pleats, and sleeves almost
>to the ground, again and again.  ILL if you have to Henry
>Foster McClintock's *Old Irish and Highland Dress* printed
>1943, 1949 and copyrighted 1950 Dundalgan Press, Dublin or
>closeby, Ireland. Try also the Palkenham's fairly recent
>book about Dublin (Pakenham, Thomas and Valerie.  *Dublin, A
>Traveler's Companion,* Great Britian: Constable and Company,
>and New York: Athenaeum, Macmillan Publishing Company, 1988.
>ISBN 0-689-70741-X) which is widely available in the travel
>sections of libraries, and may even still be in print, for a
>great collection of woodblock prints and period writings
>from about 1000-1930. I the biggest difference I can see
>with the leines illustrated on  SCA type WebPages and the
>period illustrations is that the real leines are pictured as
>a wrap-around style with a shawl (bathrobe-style) collar.
>It doesn't appear to be a shirt which goes over the head, or
>if it does, it is worn in a way which disguises that.  Also,
>the de Heere watercolors show a bag style sleeve, not a
>sleeve like an over-long shirtsleeve which might be gathered
>up.  One arm and hand opening in the upper part of a boy's
>bag sleeve is even embroidered with red floss to highlight
>the opening. Mairead Dunlevy's *Dress in Ireland* doesn't
>address your particular questions in any depth, but there
>are some woodblock illustrations in there which will help
>you.  Do ILL it too if you have an interest in things Irish,
>as it is a marvelous book.  She tries to cover a lot of
>ground previously not published, and acknowledges
>McClintock's previous and massive contribution.
>

>Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>On Mon, 22 Feb 1999 12:14:00 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>>
>>The use of drawstrings is something I can't comment on, 
>
>AFAIK the use of drawstrings developed out of the Renfaire community.
>As I recall being told, people at first came up with it as a way to
>roughly imitate the pleats (which from my mother's research on the
>subject were supposed to be carefully laid in place and occasionally
>secured/decorated/highlighted with a piece of braid, a strip of
>embriodery or trim of some kind but most often left plain) without
>having to do the hard work of stitching them individually in place.
>Kind of a quick n' easy, trim built-in machine method. Later, the
>convenience and utility of the drawstring was discovered - the sleeves
>can be pulled up further (besides being pulled back and tucked into
>the belt) for washing dishes and other messy tasks, or for cooling off
>a bit in the heat that is usual at faires in the US. They could also
>be let down a bit for warmth in event of a cold day.
>
>So, it is pretty clear to me, from what I've been told, and seen, that
>drawstrings are a faire/SCA development. My mother does not recall
>having found any references to drawstrings in her research some 20
>years ago, when she designed and made late medieval-rennaisance Irish
>costumes for the group Sheila na Gig  to perform and lecture in at the
>DeYoung Museum, during the Treasures of Irish Art exhibit in 1977(8?)
>
>Mom even remembers some of the early evloution of Irish and Scots
>costumes at the Northern/Southern California RenFaires, having 'been
>there' as it were since the second one - so she is really my primary
>source for that information. Apparently early on there was some
>argument about whether the Irish even wore the leine (and whether it
>could be worn by Irish persons at Faire) and she had to take her
>documentation to the offices and argue it out. This would have been in
>about 1978 or 9.

>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>The pleats show up at the waist when the garment is belted
>or girdled  with a "criss."  They also are where the sleeve
>attaches to the "armsythe"---not really a curved armsythe as
>we know it, but the selvedge edge opening where the sleeve
>attaches to the body.  The pleats also show up at the wrist,
>or if its a bag sleeve, at the bottom of the bag where the
>fabric is gathered together. The
>www.ReconstructingHistory.com webpages replicate a lot of
>the period artwork, although the drawings are much clearer
>in books.  If you can just put yourself in front of the
>period drawings, a lot of these mysteries (but not all!)
>will evaporate.  The pleating was strategically important in
>soldiers' clothing, as all those layers of pleated linen
>acted like a crude layered linen armoring jacket---and
>deflected sword blows.  The Scots anyway (also Celts, with
>similar dress) would tar over those pleats with pitch before
>a battle to reinforce them, sometimes sticking skins on the
>top for more battle protection.
>Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>One 19th Century author who was also puzzling over those
>pleats surmised that the original Irish leine and heavy over
>robe were similar to Roman garb.  He suggested the leine
>might have originally been a single piece (perhaps pieced, I
>don't know) of fabric stretching from wrist to wrist (at a
>minimum, it could be more!) and from front hem to back hem
>with a head hole in the middle.  (That's a rectangle a
>minimum of two yards wide (it could be wider) and about 3-4
>yards the other way(from your toes up over your shoulders to
>your heels). The whole thing gets girdled in at the waist,
>creating an enormous amount of pleats, but there are no
>pleats actually sewn in at the shoulders.  Now if you sliced
>from the neckhole down the front, you'd be approaching a
>kimono cut, and then there becomes a way to get that cowled
>wrap-over front closure and neckline.  The slice wouldn't
>have to go all the way down, maybe just to the waist or so.
>When you look at all the period illustrations, it becomes
>clear that there are several versions of the leine, but I do
>find his theory very plausible both from a historical and a
>geometrical point of view.
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
>

>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>Henry Foster McClintock deals with the origins of the leine
>in tremendous detail in Old Irish and Highland Dress, 1950,
>and seems to support the concept of its Roman origins.  I
>haven't read the whole thing, having just got it on ILL
>myself, but he goes through an enormous amount of art and
>literature seeking exactly the answers to your questions.
>Hope H. Dunlap
>


>
>-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
>
>
>
>I talked to the RPFN Scots costume expert (Clovis Carleton) in about
>1992 or so; she said that they'd originally done the pleated bagpipe
>sleeves.... until someone washed a leine after a hard weekend and was 
>hanging it out to dry when a really large and vicious-looking bug (I
>believe it was a potato bug) crawled out of one of the sleeve pleats. 
>
>Yes, this is after the garment had already been through the washer. 
>
>This induced the entire scots guild to begin making leines that gathered
>on a string, and could be stretched out completely when washed. 
>
>Cheers!
>
>Gail
>
>(Disclaimer: This is the way I remember it; anyone who remembers
>it more accurately is welcome to correct me!)

-Poster: MaggiRos@aol.com

In a message dated 2/22/99 9:59:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
margo@directcon.net writes:

> 
>  >-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>  >
>  >The use of drawstrings is something I can't comment on, but
>  >period writings and illustrations definitely support lots of
>  >fabric, pleats and more pleats. 
>  
>  Yes, but where?  The pictures I've seen don't support the modern version
>  with pleats along the top of the arm.  Several of these pictures show the
>  top of the arm quite clearly, and all I see there are folds of fabric,
>  exactly what would result if you took a wide, wrist length sleeve and
pushed
>  it  up toward your elbow.   

Yes, exactly. There are comments about pleats, but the pleats over the sleeve
are an invention of the Renaissance Pleasure Faires in California. I watched
it happen, and even helped it along by publishing an article in the SCA's
Tournaments Illuminated.  Once or twice a year now I have to both apologize
and try to talk people out of using that article as primary documentation.
<g>

Too, we always have to face the problem of translation in costume research.
Which garment was pleated? "Manifoldly pleated" isn't it? Well, if there's a
lot of fabric in the body of the leine, it's going to "pleat" under the belt.
So will a brat or even (she said carefully) something the might be mistaken
for a great kilt.   

There's no evidence for pleating on top of the arm. It's most useful to
actually cut the sleeve to finish shorter than shoulder to wrist.  The
drawstring trick was a specific invention of Clan MacColin's washer women
"working the well" at Southern Faire back in the late 70s-early 80s. And they
told two friends. And they told two friends....  

MaggiRos
or
Mairghread-Ros FitzGarret of Desmond, etc etc

>-Poster: "Abbott, Ruth" <r-abbott@oar-xch1.oar.uiuc.edu>
>
>Ok, I am firmly convinced that the "SCA usual" way to make a leine is
>just plain incorrect.  Will someone (MaggiRos, perhap?) please tell us
>all the right way to make a leine?  I have mulled this over for a while
>and re-examined the evidence I have, and I still come up with the idea
>that (at it's most voluminous) a leine had pleats along the shoulders
>and down the arm.  Sewn in pleats, I'm thinking, but still pleats.  So,
>how would you (anyone that has more complete ideas on this) go about
>making one?
>

>Poster: MaggiRos@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/26/99 10:09:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, r-abbott@oar-
>xch1.oar.uiuc.edu writes:
>
>> 
>>  Ok, I am firmly convinced that the "SCA usual" way to make a leine is
>>  just plain incorrect.  Will someone (MaggiRos, perhap?) please tell us
>>  all the right way to make a leine?  I have mulled this over for a while
>>  and re-examined the evidence I have, and I still come up with the idea
>>  that (at it's most voluminous) a leine had pleats along the shoulders
>>  and down the arm.  Sewn in pleats, I'm thinking, but still pleats.  So,
>>  how would you (anyone that has more complete ideas on this) go about
>>  making one?
>
>Well now I'm intrigued.  I was under the impression that SCA usual *was* with
>a top-pleated sleeve, which I am here to testify is not documentable before
>1979.
>
>Feel free to email me off-list to thrash it out :)   For a faster response,
>use my "working" screen name: NOVL Thorn@aol.com.   Let's talk!
>
>MaggiRos

>Thanks, everyone.  I have copied this thread, along with older threads from
the archives, to send tothe  person who asked me for information, who is in
charge of a large group of Irish actors at a major event (how's that for
coy) and is considering doing away with leines pleated along the top of the
arm.  If this happens, and other people copy them, and other people copy
THEM, people all over the world might be wearing the correct style in
another 25 years.  About which time new research will be done or old
evidence discovered that will prove that something else about them is all
wrong, and we'll start all over again!
>
>Margo Anderson
>

-Poster: MaggiRos@aol.com

In a message dated 2/26/99 11:27:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
margo@directcon.net writes:

>  and is considering doing away with leines pleated along the top of the
>  arm.  If this happens, and other people copy them, and other people copy
>  THEM, people all over the world might be wearing the correct style in
>  another 25 years.

What a thought!  It always seems like only the errors get perpetuted!  We live
in hope!

-Poster: MaggiRos@aol.com


In a message dated 2/26/99 6:02:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hhdunlap@email.msn.com writes:

> When there were pleats going horizontally across
>  the arm and shoulder, were they sewn down?  Maybe, but in
>  many cases clearly not.

Trust me.  If they weren't sewn down, the fabric would slip down the gathering
threads and puddle at the wrist.  Bad idea. Been there.

I ain't buyin' it.


>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>Have you  read McClintock closely and studied the
>illustrations?  There is not just ONE correct way to sew an
>Irish leine.  McClintock describes many variations of the
>Irish Leine, 8 of which I'll describe here (numbered). I
>would agree that some of the sculptures show horizontal
>pleats that must have been anchored in some way to way to
>stay in the position they were in, but many of the pictures
>show other arrangements of pleats, gathers, no pleats, and
>here goes:
>
>(1) tunica style garments where the fabric width was just
>wide enough (and no more) to span the shoulders and arms to
>the wrists, so that it couldn't puddle (like the "English
>print of Irish men," dating *perhaps* from the time of Henry
>VIII in the Ashmolean Museum, opposite page 30).
>
>(2)The Pre-Norman engaged sculptures from the Shrine of St.
>Moedoc, opposite page 11 in McClintock show an arrangement
>of pleats which might have been sewn in on both the upper
>and lower layers of clothing, more like the regular,
>continuously stitched welts on the Shinrone Gown than
>pleats.
>
>(3) The poor Irish people shown in Durer's drawing of 1521
>have on leines made out of absolutely minimal amount of
>materials, with no pleats or gathers whatsoever.
>
>(4) There's another German drawing 1529-1532 of an Irish
>woman showing her leine pleated and sewn into a neckband of
>self material.
>
>(5) In the 1545 de Here watercolor of "The Irish People in
>the Time of King Henry VIII," there are no stitched in welts
>or pleats in the men's and boy's leines, which have flowing
>bag sleeves to the ankles.  The arms stick out though hole
>in the upper front part of the sleeves, and the bottom 2 or
>3 feet of the sleeves are vestigial, good only for pockets.
>There's some evidence that this might have been unique to
>the Limerick area.
>
>(6) Derrick's poem of 1581 mentions the leine of the Karne
>(soldier) as short, not reaching past the knee, "with pleats
>on pleats thei pleated are as thick as pleats may lie.
>Whose sleves hang trailing doune almost unto the Shoe:"  He
>also mentions that they are strange.  Does that mean they
>are unique to soldiers, and that people in other walks of
>life wear something else?  Maybe, because
>
>(7) illustrations in the same book (Derrick's 1581), which
>accompany that poem show a farmer and his wife being burned
>out of their home, and their sleeves are not as voluminous
>nor as anywhere near as long as those of the soldiers.
>
>(8) Another writing ot the same time, but referring to an
>earlier time mentions a multiplicity of "gathers and
>wrinkles." No mention of pleats.
>
>There is so much variation to the theme of the Irish leine,
>depending on period, location, class, economic means,
>activity, and sex of the wearer even in a single century,
>that try to establish ONE correct way to sew a leine misses
>the whole point. You can certainly devise a leine which is
>arguably appropriate for a single persona, but not for an
>entire nation over a millennium.
>


>Poster: MaggiRos@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/27/99 10:07:46 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>hhdunlap@email.msn.com writes:
>
>> arne
>>  (soldier) as short, not reaching past the knee, "with pleats
>>  on pleats thei pleated are as thick as pleats may lie.
>>  Whose sleves hang trailing doune almost unto the Shoe:"  He
>>  also mentions that they are strange.  Does that mean they
>>  are unique to soldiers, and that people in other walks of
>>  life wear something else?  Maybe, because
>>  
>>  (7) illustrations in the same book (Derrick's 1581), which
>>  accompany that poem show a farmer and his wife being burned
>>  out of their home, and their sleeves are not as voluminous
>>  nor as anywhere near as long as those of the soldiers.
>>  
>
>Someone must point out that Derrick never went to Ireland himself, so we have
>to be careful.
>


>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@email.msn.com>
>
>That's right.  The publishing industry was not centered in
>Ireland, so sketches and observations were brought back and
>engraved or woodcut by others skilled in those media for
>publication.  Publishers were located in Dieppe, the Low
>Countries, Germany, and later, London.  All the observations
>and sketches brought back by Explorers during the Age of
>Exploration (Derrick's period, 1500's) which were published
>were subjected to this process.  Most of the explorers were
>charged by their funding authorities to bring back logs and
>sketches of everything they found.   The published materials
>survived far more frequently than the original working logs
>and sketches.  There wasn't the same economic reason for
>Ireland to get this degree of scrutiny, unfortunately, and
>what survives are accounts and images from travelers who
>recognized the economic value of publishing what they saw,
>but there was no Charter Company behind them demanding an
>intense illustration and reporting effort.
>
>Art historians use the botanicals of the Middle Ages to show
>the process of drawing and engraving from life versus
>drawing and engraving successive generations of prints from
>previous drawings.  The further removed the artist is from
>life, the more stylized and lifeless the artwork becomes,
>and the more inaccuracies occur.  It's sort of like the
>children's game of "gossip" where all the players are
>arranged in a row and a message is whispered down the line.
>At the end of the game, the final version of the message is
>compared with the original message.  "Hilarity at the
>disparity" is the most common result, although sometimes
>(which is quite dull) the message comes through loud and
>clear.  The general rule is that the more times something is
>replicated from the most recent secondary source, without
>reference back to the original source (life) the more
>inaccurate it is.
>
>In the Age of Exploration, there was little gain to the
>publishers from imposing one's their own cultural
>preconceptions on the incoming visual information.  What
>sold was information about the outlandish, not the everyday.
>That's why things like the American crocodile ended up
>embroidered on one of Queen Elizabeth's gowns--it was so
>very strange, that it was mesmerizing.  There was a whole
>publishing industry founded on showing the outlandish to the
>paying public.
>
>During the Age of Exploration (Derrick's period), there was
>a very high degree of accuracy in general regarding the
>images that returned from foreign places of flowers,
>animals, and aboriginals.   In the case of the exploration
>of North America , there is enough information  from various
>sources to suggest that there was a pretty high degree of
>accuracy in the published images.  Interpretations of
>intangibles such as culture, religion, and life styles were
>bungled, but what they could see, they got right an awful
>lot of the time.
>
>I admit  that our hypotheses hang on a slender thread where
>there are not corroborating artifacts and other information.
>But it does behoove us to get out there and see all of the
>original sources before generating an opinion.
>






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 17:59:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 17:11:11 -0600 (MDT)
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST:  Pants -was:Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEEB70.8CD6BB60
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>These are baggies, and the easiest thing to get my newbies into ( 20th
>century ren casual, we call it)

>For Italian Ren, from what I've seen in paintings & such,  the male
>options are long gown and/or hose, sometimes knee-length TIGHT pants =
over
>hose, or meeting the hose at the knee...  Pants as modern males tend to
>accept them just don't seem to fit the silhouette for that place & =
time.


Why would a guy wear a certain upper garment, and not wear a suitable =
lower
body covering? Certain periods of male upper body coverings just look
*awful* with "baggy pants".

[Carrie Veenstra]  I totally agree with you... the entire ensemble =
should be from the same time & place..The guys I have sewn for range =
from my husband and brother-in-law who are beginning to take interest in =
SCA down to good friends that want to visit us or help work the booth at =
the faires...

I insist that they be in 'faire clothes'  if they are going to hang =
around the shop, and for the timid, I introduce them to a peasant shirt =
& loose pants (non-threatening, inexpensive, and broadly =
appropriate(accepted) for medieval & ren themed faires --much like the =
lowerclass men's costume in "Elizabethan Costuming" by Winter & Savoy). =
Getting them out of  jeans & sweats is my goal at that point!  Usually, =
they become accustomed to seeing other men in hose (or tights), and =
their next costume will be more involved, more expensive and =
slightly(sometimes just) more upperclass.  Added bonus being that the =
cut of these peasant garments make for great loaner pieces, =
one-size-fits-many.

Now, for SCA... I'm still researching late 16th century Venetian, =
because that's what my husband and brother-in-law wish to be -- my =
Brother-in-law is already used to wearing tights, and we've picked out a =
pattern (Period Patterns no. 43) including hose, a shirt, a doublet, and =
a short over-gown (name escapes me at this moment) + a cape.  My husband =
on the other hand,  while willing to wear hose underneath, opted for a =
full gown.  His own modesty, but perfectly appropriate in period.  Not =
every man allowed the shapeliness of his legs to be viewed in ANY period =
-- but as far as I can tell, pants weren't the alternative. Even =
venetians show a bit of shapeliness and accentuate the calves.


 ... in a more-or-less Elizabethan doublet with
slashed panels on the sleeves. With it he is wearing a pair of loose =
pants,
obviously made to go with his doublet, cuz they have matching slashed
panels running down the legs; they come down to his *ankles* (or the =
tops
of his feet, actually) and have a *lace cuff* there. These are pants of
absolutely no period ... I'm guessing,
because they *feel* like modern pants?

[Carrie Veenstra]  This sounds pretty awful.....
I don't really know what the aversion to showing a little leg is, I just =
know it's there.  Threatened masculinity? Unfamiliarity with the =
sillouette of the period?  I'm in the bible belt...  suggesting 'tights" =
 or "knee-pants"  to a guy just doesn't usually take off with them =
without some exposure to the intended environment.


Baggy pants just won't look right with a short fitted Italian "doublet" =
(is
that a cotehardie?) from the late Renaissance. The darn thing was so =
fitted
and short in order to *show off* the wearer's body. If a guy is shy to =
show
off his legs, mixing up a short tight "doublet" with baggy pants will =
just
look awful (ok, so i'm being highly opinionated).

[Carrie Veenstra] =20
I agree again..  There are plenty of long, medium and short - gowned =
images from Late Ren Italy.  The really really short doublets (I don't =
know if it's technically the same as a cotehardie or not) were worn by =
the (young) guys who really thought their legs were spiff...

So, if a guy thinks some of historic lower body coverings look too =
"weird"
for him to wear, he kind of has two options:
(1) if it's SCA (or a similar type of event) he should go with a period
that incorporates some sort of "pants" in which he'd be comfortable and
wear an appropriate upper body garment, rather than mixing and
(mis)matching garments and periods;
--or--
(2) wear a different outfit from the same period that allows him more
"modesty" (for Ren Fairs or trying to match a woman's outfit).

[Carrie Veenstra]  I thought this was well-put and resisted snippage :-> =
 the only modification I would *possibly*  find acceptable  would be =
clothing modified for fighting mobility and/or protection...but there =
are SO many available options that choosing wisely from the styles we =
have pictorial (or other) evidence of *should* be adequate.

Carrie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 18:13:45 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

The times I've had to deal with baulky men/boys not wanting to wear
tights I do one or more of several things.  First, I point out that
women *drool* over ballet dancers *because* they are wearing tights. 
Second, I point out someone they know and respect who wears tights.  In
the case of a high school production of the musical "Camelot" I had my
husband (very obviously 'macho') come in wearing his full dress SCA
complete with tights and swords etc who was obstinsibly 'teaching them
how to bow in tunics (the director wanted 8th/9th C costumes).  The boys
immediately stopped complaining about wearing tights and asked if they
could wear earrings too (my husband has both ears pierced).  He started
the SCA wearing very, very tight fitting sweat pants (about a size or
two too small) which is often a good way to 'ease' a bashful male into
tights.  I've found that once you get them into tights and they realize
how women react it's not difficult to keep them in tights! <wink>

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 18:28:34 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 19:47:41 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

1240-50  Amesbury Psalter
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/zgothic/miniatur/1200-250/08e_
1200.jpg

1321 Tino de Camaino
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/t/tino/charity1.jpg Sculpture
entitled charity.  This must be the undergown pictured?  No
evidence of any method of fastening the slits closed

1486-90   Italian Rennaissance :  The lady in pink is
wearing an overgown with a deep v-neck which provides easy
access the layers below  Ghirlandaio
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/g/ghirland/domenico/tornabuo/b
irth.jpg  and another of a wet nurse of the same period:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/g/ghirland/domenico/tornabuo/b
irthjoh.jpg

1519  Durer
http://search.famsf.org/4d.acgi$Record?53600&=list&=1&=nursi
ng%20&=and&=20&=0&=keywords&=Yes&=&=&=&= shows the mother
wearing a jacket with wings, opened to reveal a chemise
underneath with a slit open over the breast.

Rubens, early 1600's.  This is different!
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/r/rubens/graphics/portrait.jpg
Are we looking at a *horizontal* nursing opening here?!?

Francisco Zurbaran, Spanish, mid 1600's
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/z/zurbaran/mad_chil.jpg


Hope H. Dunlap




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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <margo@directcon.net>
References: <199908221657.JAA29678@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Review of the New Simplicity Elizabethan Pattern
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 19:32:26 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Hi Margo,

May I have permission to post this review to my pattern site, with credit to
you and a link to your site?

Thanks for your consideration.

~Kyna


----- > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> I bought the new Simplicity "Shakespeare In Love" pattern yesterday.  I
was
> very surprised to find that my final review of it is that it's FABULOUS!!!
>


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From: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>
Subject: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
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-Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>

I am writing a novel, and am wrestling with the clothing that the first
explorers of Antarctica wore.  This would be the Scott expedition of
1911-12.  I have books, journals, tons of fine photographs, but no verbal
descriptions -- drat them, those men just did not want to write in their
journals about their clothing!  (Women would not have been so shy.)  I need
words, names, descriptions for these things.

So! The bits I can identify include finnesko, the favorite outdoor footwear
-- a soft fur boot.  Big bulky fur mitts, too, over one and sometimes two
layers of woolen mitts underneath, sometimes fingerless.  A woolen balaclava
which can roll up to be a hat that covers the ears.

Here we wander beyond my knowledge.  Can they really be wearing knickers?
They must've frozen their butts off, I only hope the knickers were made of
wool.  Other times it looks like long narrow pants. There are glimpses of
what looks like heavy socks pulled on over the bottoms of the pants.  They
are not wearing parkas on top.  It looks more like some sort of windcheater
or windproof smock.  What is the right word for this thing?  I assume that
underneath there are sweaters?  Some shots show what I assume are wind
pants.  The indoor photos show men in fine-gauge sweaters or ganseys, with
loose turtlenecks or mock turtles, and something that could be a barn jacket
over.

Apparently it was felt to be unBritish to wear fur parkas and hoods like
Eskimos.  It looks like lunacy to the modern eye.

Regards,
Brenda
Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 19:54:37 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sun, 22 Aug 1999, Brenda and Larry Clough wrote:

> Here we wander beyond my knowledge.  Can they really be wearing knickers?
> They must've frozen their butts off, I only hope the knickers were made of
> wool.  Other times it looks like long narrow pants. There are glimpses of
> what looks like heavy socks pulled on over the bottoms of the pants.  They
> are not wearing parkas on top.  It looks more like some sort of windcheater
> or windproof smock.  What is the right word for this thing?  I assume that
> underneath there are sweaters?  Some shots show what I assume are wind
> pants.  The indoor photos show men in fine-gauge sweaters or ganseys, with
> loose turtlenecks or mock turtles, and something that could be a barn jacket
> over.
> 
> Apparently it was felt to be unBritish to wear fur parkas and hoods like
> Eskimos.  It looks like lunacy to the modern eye.
Well they did find the frozen corpse of that guy who may have gotten to
the top of Everest in the 20's, and he was wearing the sort of stuff
you'd wear to go walking in the Lake District apparently. (Leather
shoes, not boots, a tweed suit etc).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 20:42:10 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
In-Reply-To: <37ce4b7a.173520264@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

On Sun, 22 Aug 1999, StrangeGirl wrote:

> [1] I've seen this sort of wrap-front dress (which the odd drapery
> leads me to believe this might possibly be) in only one place, which
> is the illustration on the cover of 'A History of Private Life, vol
> II, Revelations of the Medieval World' Aries & Duby, eds. The ladies
> in attendance on the couple depicted as the focal point of the
> illustration are wearing a wrap-front gown which may be a casual way
> to wear a later form of houppelande. Has anyone seen similar
> depictions of this way of wearing this dress?

	I've seen it a few times but these are the only ones I can
remember offhand or find pictures of at the moment.

-The Medieval Woman, an Illuminated Book of Days for the week of March
1-6:  Family scene, wife spinning with distaff
Bourdichon, Les quatre etats de la societe.  "Le travail"
French, fifteenth century, Ecole des Beaux-Arts, Paris (Ph: Giraudon/Art
Resource)

-The Unicorn Tapestries in The Cloisters.  The sixth tapestry where the
unicorn is killed and brought to the castle has three women wearing wrap
front gowns.

annora

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 22 21:15:45 1999
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 20:27:04 -0600
From: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>

Greetings,

I have been unable to find this pattern, Simplicity pattern 0679, in any
of the stores in this area.  Would someone on the list who _can_ find it
be interested in buying it for me, and tell me the cost, and I will mail
a check or money order to cover it, and the shipping?

If so, please contact me privately.

Ann

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 05:58:12 1999
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	 Mon, 23 Aug 1999 04:04:42 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 07:10:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Well, didn't they send a good deal of their time on
cross-country (Nordic) skis?  Wool knickers with a few pair
of over the knee woolen socks and gaiters would be the
traditional dress for Nordic skiing.  It is still standard
for reasons of practicality.  You wear long underwear
underneath.  Chances ae the fellas called their clothing
"equiment" or "gear" or somesuch. The purpose of the gaiters
would be to add a windproof layer, keeps the snow out of the
knit hose.  Knickers allow much greater freedom of movement
than pants, and are no more chilly.  In warmer climes, pants
have a nasty way of wicking moisture from the brush, grass,
and snowdrifts up the leg where it then melts, freezes, etc.
In a freezing climate, heavy tall sox over pants would be
reasonable for cross-country skiing, with or with out the
gaiters, because the last thing you need is pants flapping
about your ankles as you are skiing along.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Brenda and Larry Clough
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 1999 8:31 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
>
>
>
> -Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>
>
> I am writing a novel, and am wrestling with the clothing
that
> the first
> explorers of Antarctica wore.  This would be the Scott
expedition of
> 1911-12.  I have books, journals, tons of fine
photographs,
> but no verbal
> descriptions -- drat them, those men just did not want to
> write in their
> journals about their clothing!  (Women would not have been
so
> shy.)  I need
> words, names, descriptions for these things.
>
> So! The bits I can identify include finnesko, the favorite
> outdoor footwear
> -- a soft fur boot.  Big bulky fur mitts, too, over one
and
> sometimes two
> layers of woolen mitts underneath, sometimes fingerless.
A
> woolen balaclava
> which can roll up to be a hat that covers the ears.
>
> Here we wander beyond my knowledge.  Can they really be
> wearing knickers?
> They must've frozen their butts off, I only hope the
knickers
> were made of
> wool.  Other times it looks like long narrow pants. There
are
> glimpses of
> what looks like heavy socks pulled on over the bottoms of
the
> pants.  They
> are not wearing parkas on top.  It looks more like some
sort
> of windcheater
> or windproof smock.  What is the right word for this
thing?
> I assume that
> underneath there are sweaters?  Some shots show what I
assume are wind
> pants.  The indoor photos show men in fine-gauge sweaters
or
> ganseys, with
> loose turtlenecks or mock turtles, and something that
could
> be a barn jacket
> over.
>
> Apparently it was felt to be unBritish to wear fur parkas
and
> hoods like
> Eskimos.  It looks like lunacy to the modern eye.
>
> Regards,
> Brenda
> Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
> http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 06:17:14 1999
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	 Mon, 23 Aug 1999 04:29:33 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 07:37:32 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Nordic ski costume is very light, just a sweater and maybe
an anorak over top, because the energy the skier puts out is
tremendous.  It is not unusual to be in shirtsleeves or bare
arms when its well below freezing.  The Antarctic expedition
just flew, sometimes 200 miles per day.   It's critical when
you stop to have warm things to put on and to eat,
preferably a warm house waiting with a kettle of soup on.
Nordic skiing is not ideal for going overnight.  It depends
on a hut support system at each end, which obviously the
Antarctic explorers didn't have.   Heavier clothes and
equipment really slows you down.  You also sweat inside, so
when you stop, you freeze.

The debate for the Antarctic explorers was always "heavy and
slow" or "fast and light."  There are good arguments on both
sides.  The expedition did fail, so obviously their plan did
not work.  Norwegian gear might well have been the model for
their equipage.

By the way, good Nordic skiing shoes, even the ones they
call boots, are still leather, and more like shoes than
boots.  Flexibility of the sole is essential, because the
toe is attached to the ski, but the heel must come way up
with every stride.  What we think of as boots just wouldn't
work, they would reduce the length of each stride to a "baby
step," and there would be no glide and no speed.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message---
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Hope H. Dunlap
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 7:11 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
> Well, didn't they send a good deal of their time on
> cross-country (Nordic) skis?  Wool knickers with a few
pair
> of over the knee woolen socks and gaiters would be the
> traditional dress for Nordic skiing.  It is still standard
> for reasons of practicality.  You wear long underwear
> underneath.  Chances ae the fellas called their clothing
> "equiment" or "gear" or somesuch. The purpose of the
gaiters
> would be to add a windproof layer, keeps the snow out of
the
> knit hose.  Knickers allow much greater freedom of
movement
> than pants, and are no more chilly.  In warmer climes,
pants
> have a nasty way of wicking moisture from the brush,
grass,
> and snowdrifts up the leg where it then melts, freezes,
etc.
> In a freezing climate, heavy tall sox over pants would be
> reasonable for cross-country skiing, with or with out the
> gaiters, because the last thing you need is pants flapping
> about your ankles as you are skiing along.
>
> Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Brenda and Larry Clough
> > Sent: Sunday, August 22, 1999 8:31 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: H-COST: Antarctic period costume
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>
> >
> > I am writing a novel, and am wrestling with the clothing
> that
> > the first
> > explorers of Antarctica wore.  This would be the Scott
> expedition of
> > 1911-12.  I have books, journals, tons of fine
> photographs,
> > but no verbal
> > descriptions -- drat them, those men just did not want
to
> > write in their
> > journals about their clothing!  (Women would not have
been
> so
> > shy.)  I need
> > words, names, descriptions for these things.
> >
> > So! The bits I can identify include finnesko, the
favorite
> > outdoor footwear
> > -- a soft fur boot.  Big bulky fur mitts, too, over one
> and
> > sometimes two
> > layers of woolen mitts underneath, sometimes fingerless.
> A
> > woolen balaclava
> > which can roll up to be a hat that covers the ears.
> >
> > Here we wander beyond my knowledge.  Can they really be
> > wearing knickers?
> > They must've frozen their butts off, I only hope the
> knickers
> > were made of
> > wool.  Other times it looks like long narrow pants.
There
> are
> > glimpses of
> > what looks like heavy socks pulled on over the bottoms
of
> the
> > pants.  They
> > are not wearing parkas on top.  It looks more like some
> sort
> > of windcheater
> > or windproof smock.  What is the right word for this
> thing?
> > I assume that
> > underneath there are sweaters?  Some shots show what I
> assume are wind
> > pants.  The indoor photos show men in fine-gauge
sweaters
> or
> > ganseys, with
> > loose turtlenecks or mock turtles, and something that
> could
> > be a barn jacket
> > over.
> >
> > Apparently it was felt to be unBritish to wear fur
parkas
> and
> > hoods like
> > Eskimos.  It looks like lunacy to the modern eye.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Brenda
> > Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor
Books.
> > http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________
> _____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

Hello,

Regarding the query about the clothing worn on Scott's expedition, I have 
faced similar problems of finding out what explorers wore based on their 
diaries. It is true that men seldom mention what they are wearing, but it is 
usually because once they have purchased it and are wearing it, they seldom 
think about it again unless it gives them problems. The reason is simple: on 
expeditions like Scott's they had better things to worry about than clothing - 
survival for example. That is why I almost always look in two places for the 
gear an explorer takes on an expedition: first at the begining of their diary, 
when they are actually buying, trying on and getting used to their clothes. 
But a far better place to find these things out is in their lists of purchases 
or inventories of items taken on expedition. If you are lucky, these mundane 
records will have survived (and I cannot believe they have not survived for 
the Scott Expedition) and all you have to do is take the names on the list and 
match them to the garments seen in the photos. It may mean, however, working 
in archives in England to get the information you need. Good luck.

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 08:19:06 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Nursing mothers in period art
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Hope - I don't think your Rubens lady is a nursing mother at all. The projection which might be seen as a baby's chin is the upper part of her puffed sleeve. It was a common fashion in the early 17th century to gather voluminous sleeves halfway down. Though she does seem to have a curious horizontal line below the top of her bodice on one side.
BTW,  your URLs nos. 1, 3, 4 & 5 didn't work for me.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: antarctica
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I am writing a novel, and am wrestling with the clothing that the first
explorers of Antarctica wore. >>

This depends entirely on what nationality you're dealing with. The Brits
firmly refused to do anything the way the Scandinavians did, out of
national pride and perversity. In consequence, they did bizarre things like
insisting on taking gas-powered cars and trucks that, of course, refused to
work in subzero temperatures. They insisted the cars would be superior to
dogs and sleds. Several of the exploreres also refused to take along skiis.

Frank Hurley's outstanding photographs of Shackleton's Endurance voyage
(1914 - 17) have recently been reprinted. Because they're made from
original glass plate negatives for the most part, the visible detail is
staggering -- lots of guernsey sweaters and skin coats, knitted caps and
fur ear-flap hats. There are plenty of books out on this expedition,
including a couple of books called Endurance, as well as South
(Shackleton's own account) and a major biography of Shackleton. Shackleton
also insisted that all of his officers keep journals, and they do talk
about clothing and provisioning.


Deborah


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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

The Fram Museum in Oslo has clothing from the various expeditions to the
North and South poles.  It was the ship that the first man to reach the
South Pole, Amundson, took down there.

The clothing that I remember was seal-fur trousers and coats, but I
didn't take any notes.  You may be able to find more info by
web-searching on the Fram.

--
"A cow is a dairy product!"  - Sherman's Lagoon
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Has anyone mentioned the National Geographic Society as a source for
research on late 19th and 20th century explorers?  Copious photos and
articles have been printed in the magazine, in addition the Society sponsors
expiditions and could probably make records available.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: antarctica
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

If anyone is looking for this stuff and knows which
issue or around which issue they are looking for, I
have just acquired all of the National Geographics
from about 1970 to the present.  I would be more than
happy to look stuff up for people.

Sarah


--- Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> Has anyone mentioned the National Geographic Society
> as a source for
> research on late 19th and 20th century explorers? 
> Copious photos and
> articles have been printed in the magazine, in
> addition the Society sponsors
> expiditions and could probably make records
> available.  
> 
> Margo Anderson
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Vancouver Silk (was Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!)
Message-Id: <935421600.23596.799@excite.com>
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> Charlotte and I already "talked" this morning and we're looking at mid Oct
or
> mid November.  Any earlier would be brutal.  And I am looking at making a
> weekend of it not a day trip.  But for all interested, lets get a list of
> names and then take it privately.  :)  We'll figure something out.
> 
> Merouda / Cynthia

I've gone on a few 'silk safaris' myself, and found that the best time to
hit the sari district in Vancouver is late January. Yes, the weather is
crap, but the prices are even better than normal! Especially if you hit the
place after the High Holy Days of the Muslim calendar. Lots of glitz, and
everything on clearance!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > it is the fact that no self
> > respecting woman of any class in history until the 20th century would
> > have let her bosom hang out like that.  Never.  <snip>
>
> What about the Minoans and the virgins of Queen Elizabeth I's court?  I
> was under the impression that both wore clothing which revealed the
> nipple if not the entire bust.

Consider this my response to the many who provided examples of bared
bosoms...

The examples you have listed have so far not been what I consider to be self
respecting ladies.  Actresses (there is always an exception made for art
IMHO), Very Ancient peoples (okay, you're right, I didn't include this
aspect :) ), and the virgins.  Please elaborate on the virigins.  I was
under the impression that while a bit of the nipple might be visible they
still wore proper corsetry etc.  The breasts would not have been completely
left hanging out of the bodice.  (this is the look we were referring to for
those of you who have forgotten what we were actually discussing and who
have taken my comments out of context)

> Or perhaps it's because it makes *them* feel attractive and sexy.

I am sure that you are right about this.  Gack.

> You might consider this also...when I was in school our skirts were not
> allowed to be above halfway down our thighs.  I kept getting called to
> the office because my skirts were "too short"....they weren't...I just
> have very, very long thighs and it looks that way.  I know that when I'm
> wearing a front laced dress with a chemise that it's sitting a good inch
> if not two away from my areolas but I've been accused of "almost showing
> nipple".

But you are not letting your breasts flap around in the breeze either.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shoes?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I think this may have been addressed before but I
don't remember the answer... what would a woman
wearing Italian Renn wear on her feet?  Certainly not
the "moccasin boots" that we see at all the faires
(this I know)... so, what should I look for?

Sarah


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 11:42:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>> What about the Minoans and the virgins of Queen Elizabeth I's court?  I
>> was under the impression that both wore clothing which revealed the
>> nipple if not the entire bust.

I have never seen a portrait of a lady of the court that even suggested that
nipples could be visible. What is your reference for this?

The low necked bodice is properly cut to the top of the nipple.  the corset
worn under it is closely fitted and worn very snug, and flattens the
breasts, causing their top halfs to be pushed up in mounds. If the breasts
are on the large size, the mounds can be, well, taller than one would
expect, which might give the illusion that one is looking at a picture of
bared breast and maybe the reproduction isn't good enough to see the nipples
but they must be there....  

There are, I believe, some contemporary letters and journals that describe
the Queen and her ladies as having their bosoms bared.  This does not mean
entirely bared breasts, it means that the upper bosom was uncovered.  These
same people would refer to being "naked" when wearing a shirt without a
doublet.  

IMHO, the only way a below the nipple cut can look attractive is if the
breast in question are firm enough to stand up by themselves, i.e., under 15
years old or surgically enhanced: or if the bodice has gussets, cup
sections, or complex darting, none of which were in use at this time.  The
same effect as a gusset can sometimes  be achieved by wearing a front laced
bodice and leaving the top fiew lacing holes undone, so that the top folds
out on itself and forms a shelf for the breasts to sit on, but I've never
seen an example of that being done in period. The Minoan statues I've seen
suggest that a seperate "shelf" peice may have been seamed on under the bust
line.

As for the idea that breast could "accidentally" pop out of an Elizabethan
corset,  it's equally unlikely.  The Hunnisett pattern for the Elizabethan
corset, properly fitted, is so confining that is it impossible to get a
breast out of it without unlacing, even after hours of sincere endeavor.
(Never mind how I know, that's just an interesting piece of costume
information)  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 11:45:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 08:52:50 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:  Pants -was:Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Baggy pants just won't look right with a short fitted Italian "doublet" (is
> that a cotehardie?) from the late Renaissance.

No, a coublet is not a cotehardie.  :)  Doublet's came along about 150 or more
years later.

I've been enjoying the thread on pants.  I count myself fortunate to be
costuming for a man who already owned his own tights before I met him.  *g*

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 12:06:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: bezants?
References: <199908140348.VAA15912@net.indra.com> <37B6FE86.7811@enteract.com> <37B99374.C566252C@serv.net> <37C005C6.270C4640@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I'm going to make houppelandes of the sort that have one sleeve only
> decorated with hanging bezants.  I found a source for something that
> looks fairly close to some of the items in the Museum of London books --
> they are non-coin danglies meant for belly dancing outfits.

As far as several of us local zealots can tell, the danglies in the MOL
aren't exactly bezants.  The fact that they have two little holes (instead
of one) is one problem.  They don't dangle, too secure.  However, little
coin type thingines sound great and/or doable.  Reasonable.

> Most of the ones you can buy look like some kind of middle-eastern coin,
> or have poky, jagged edges (on purpose.)  These are different; just
> under the size of an american quarter, and have a small wire ring
> soldierd on; they come in brass or white metal, about $12/100 coins.  I
> got mine from The Pillaged Village.

So, can you share the URL for the danglies.  I have the Pillaged Village
website but can't seem to find these little treasures you describe.

Thanks,  the other Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 13:14:33 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908221331.IAA08341@discordia.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 18:43:32 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

but 'kirtling up' your skirts (ie. tucking bits into belts etc) is totally
authentic for Tudor / Elizabethan.  It makes it much easier to do any real
work, rather than just wandering about.  I work with heavy horses on an LH
site in England and couldn't do what I do if I had to worry about tripping
over yards of linen!
Same with hanging stuff off belts.  Without pockets, where else do you put
your stuff?
I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted anyway...
emma
----- Original Message -----
From: Amanda Reeves <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 1999 2:34 PM
Subject: H-COST: Wench bosoms


>
> -Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
> At a Ren Faire last year I saw a few large breasted women that chose to
> wear their "wench" blouses in a way that was a little disturbing to me
> (of-course,
> it's just my opinion, but I still have the image in my head). The fabric
> was a natural gauze and the "push up" was under the breasts, the breasts
> hung over the push-up element of the costume (a laced up vest or bodice)
> like empty, floppy water sacks, which was not appealing under the thin
> gauze. Oh-yes, they didn't have anything on under the blouse so you could
> see nipple. Not at all appealing and a little tacky, in my opinion.
>
> Another "look" I see a lot around here is the "wench" women tucking random
> parts of their skirts and petticoats up in a belt and hanging lots of
stuff
> around their waist, hems, etc. It seems to borderline fantasy, but they
> appear to be doing it for the Ren look.
>
> Then there was the lady in a BRIGHT red dress with black accents, i.e.
> belt, stockings, ribbons..........seemed she should be in an early
American
> reenactment as a barroom gal.
>
> > >  for some
> > > reason, they think it's attractive and sexy.
> >
> > Or perhaps it's because it makes *them* feel attractive and sexy.
>
> That's probably very true and very important that they feel good about
> themselves, but sometimes I wish women would look a little more closely in
> the mirror before leaving the house.
>
> > > Around here (Ohio), a couple of years ago the fashion was to wear
> > > these outfits with a FLOWER sticking out of your cleavage. Daring
> > > someone to pick it, I suppose. At least that one isn't around anymore.
>
> I see that a lot around here, but now I'm beginning to see "henna tattoos"
> on the top of the breast. I don't think they did that.
>
> > You might consider this also...when I was in school our skirts were not
> > allowed to be above halfway down our thighs.  I kept getting called to
> > the office because my skirts were "too short"....
> > Kat
>
> Oh, you're young!!! Our skirts had to be at the top of the knee!
>
> Amanda
> Texas
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 13:15:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:29:54 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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References: <199908140348.VAA15912@net.indra.com> <37B6FE86.7811@enteract.com> <37B99374.C566252C@serv.net> <37C005C6.270C4640@thibault.org> <37C182FA.ED7D7F71@serv.net>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> As far as several of us local zealots can tell, the danglies in the MOL
> aren't exactly bezants.  The fact that they have two little holes (instead
> of one) is one problem.

Aha!  I'd forgotten that.  There are, though, the leaf-shaped things
that have one hole but look like they were attached to a belt.  Those
would dangle.

> So, can you share the URL for the danglies.  I have the Pillaged Village
> website but can't seem to find these little treasures you describe.

Bought 'em at Pennsic.  They are the same ones shown on "Belt, Afghan
JP113/JW113" of the Jewelry-Middle Eastern at
http://www.pillagedvillage.com  It's not a great picture.

The type of houp I'm going to make for my sweetie is from the Devonshire
Hunting Tapestries; this is a drawing of a blue houp; the sleeve of
which has a cloud at the shoulder and "raindrops" all over the sleeve. 
There are no women with metal danglies on sleeves in these tapestries,
alas, but they do have 'em on stuffed roll hats.

http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/images/1420_devonshire_grey.jpg

--
"When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of
childishness and the desire to be very grown-up"  --C.S. Lewis
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References: <199908221331.IAA08341@discordia.io.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 11:35:55 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
>
>but 'kirtling up' your skirts (ie. tucking bits into belts etc) is totally
>authentic for Tudor / Elizabethan.  It makes it much easier to do any real
>work, rather than just wandering about.  I work with heavy horses on an LH
>site in England and couldn't do what I do if I had to worry about tripping
>over yards of linen!
>Same with hanging stuff off belts.  Without pockets, where else do you put
>your stuff?
>I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted anyway...
>emma

Emma,
You're right.  However, many of them put their skirts up like belly dancers
and then wear bells and rabbit's furs/tails, stuff that no person in their
right mind would wear unless they were wearing costumes.  Bells at the
fairs started because the first fair started in the 60's and hippies wore
bells.  Costume directors banned them but people still wear them, sounding
more like a bunch of sheep walking along the road than anything else.

LynnD
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 11:43:53 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: bezants?
References: <199908140348.VAA15912@net.indra.com> <37B6FE86.7811@enteract.com> <37B99374.C566252C@serv.net> <37C005C6.270C4640@thibault.org> <37C182FA.ED7D7F71@serv.net> <37C19260.4986F7A4@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Aha!  I'd forgotten that.  There are, though, the leaf-shaped things
> that have one hole but look like they were attached to a belt.  Those
> would dangle.

Yes, I remember these.  Very cool.  The only picture the MOL book could provide
had those little numbers hanging off of armor.  Too heavy for regular clothing.
But I love the shape!

> Bought 'em at Pennsic.  They are the same ones shown on "Belt, Afghan
> JP113/JW113" of the Jewelry-Middle Eastern at
> http://www.pillagedvillage.com  It's not a great picture.

Fine, rub it in.  Pennsic...

> The type of houp I'm going to make for my sweetie is from the Devonshire
> Hunting Tapestries; this is a drawing of a blue houp; the sleeve of
> which has a cloud at the shoulder and "raindrops" all over the sleeve.
> There are no women with metal danglies on sleeves in these tapestries,
> alas, but they do have 'em on stuffed roll hats.

Cool!  Thanks.  You make nice houppelands.  :)  Can't wear them myself, I melt.
But I love seeing them done well.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 13:51:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 12:08:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> costumes.  Bells at the
> fairs started because the first fair started in the
> 60's and hippies wore
> bells.  Costume directors banned them but people
> still wear them, sounding
> more like a bunch of sheep walking along the road
> than anything else.


Something people have to remember, though, is this...
a good portion of the people who go to ren faires are
not reenactors but fantasy actors/roleplayers.  These
people are not so much interested in the historical
accuracy as in having fun.  

The largest faire around here is King Richard's Faire
on Cape Cod... most of the people I meet there are
"fantasy" costumers, not "historical".

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 14:07:26 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:26:40 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes?
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>I think this may have been addressed before but I
>don't remember the answer... what would a woman
>wearing Italian Renn wear on her feet?  Certainly not
>the "moccasin boots" that we see at all the faires
>(this I know)... so, what should I look for?

It's probably been addressed frequently :)  It's a tough 
question since most of the paintings son't show the feet, and
I haven't (yet) found any archaeological sites from Italy with
shoes (although I'm sure there are some out there...).

What she wears may depend on the answers to some questions,
like what's her class, what years are you talking about, 
and what's her region in Italy.  I mean "Italian Rennaisance" 
could be interpreted as covering anything from Plutarch in the
1200s to post-DaVinci in the 1500s.  But ultimately, I'm not sure 
that anyone really knows.  If anyone's found anything, they 
haven't told me.

With regards to "chopines" (since those are going to be suggested)
you might want to take a look at Bernhardt, Elizabeth Louis.  
_Venetian Chopines_ Http://www.chas.utoronto.edu.ca/~ebernhar

At the very least, if you stick to *simple* shoe designs that 
resemble those worn by other Europeans of the same era, you will
probably won't go wrong.

Marc
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Subject: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 99 13:23:18 -0700
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi Emma,

Check out Breughel's pictures of crowds of lower-income people--
the sort you would expect to be hanging things off their belts. If
I recall correctly, you only occasionally see someone with an object
hanging off his or her belt-- and usually it's a belt pouch, but not
everybody pictured has a belt pouch.

cheers,

Gail DeCamp

>but 'kirtling up' your skirts (ie. tucking bits into belts etc) is totally
>authentic for Tudor / Elizabethan.  It makes it much easier to do any real
>work, rather than just wandering about.  I work with heavy horses on an LH
>site in England and couldn't do what I do if I had to worry about tripping
>over yards of linen!
>Same with hanging stuff off belts.  Without pockets, where else do you put
>your stuff?
>I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted anyway...
>emma





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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 13:52:23 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

              Whom amongst our friends may we current-day folk convince to
play the role of the servant who would have carried Mesdames'/Monsieurs'
belongings, so that the Ladies/Lords themselves would have their hands
unoccupied and be free to do as they wished, unencumbered?  :-)
If you can successfully achieve that, you're a smoother talker than I, and
mayhap ought be recommended to the Govt. for Exports' Management and Sales.
:-)  Carol / Gra/inne, with her sense of humor out of control
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 15:48:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:03:51 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>               Whom amongst our friends may we current-day folk convince to
> play the role of the servant who would have carried Mesdames'/Monsieurs'
> belongings, so that the Ladies/Lords themselves would have their hands
> unoccupied and be free to do as they wished, unencumbered?  :-)

Well not I for certain.  Being a Lady in Waiting means that I am the one who
carries things.  *g*  Not sure why a servant would carry the stuff that needed
to be carried on my belt thought.  I have a basket or two that works well.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>

At 08:17 AM 8/23/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>If anyone is looking for this stuff and knows which
>issue or around which issue they are looking for, I
>have just acquired all of the National Geographics
>from about 1970 to the present.  I would be more than
>happy to look stuff up for people.

-Excellent- idea, guys!  And I live in the Washington DC area, near the
Nat'l Geographic hq, so I can go down and badger them if necessary.  Must
wait until the kid are safely trapped in school...

Brenda


Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 23 Aug 1999, Gail DeCamp wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> 
> 
> Hi Emma,
> 
> Check out Breughel's pictures of crowds of lower-income people--
> the sort you would expect to be hanging things off their belts. If
> I recall correctly, you only occasionally see someone with an object
> hanging off his or her belt-- and usually it's a belt pouch, but not
> everybody pictured has a belt pouch.
> 
Agreed. In other pictures of the 16th century lower class it's rare to
see women even wearing a belt. Mostly they wear aprons. I guess if you
had enough stuff that you really had to carry around you used your apron or
a basket. After all, unless you were heading to market (and therefore 
carrying a basket) you probably didn't venture very far from your house.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 18:29:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 18:42:10 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

The Purple Elephant wrote:
> 
> Agreed. In other pictures of the 16th century lower class it's rare to
> see women even wearing a belt. Mostly they wear aprons. I guess if you
> had enough stuff that you really had to carry around you used your
> apron or a basket. After all, unless you were heading to market (and
> therefore carrying a basket) you probably didn't venture very far from
> your house.

I know that I've seen pics of women with things depending from their
belts in my dad's history books.  As for aprons...when I wear an apron
in garb it's *over* my belt so you might not necessarily see that I even
have one on...much less if anything is hanging on it.  Which brings up
another point...eyewitness accounts from the periods are often better,
IMO, than pictures for providing information.  Artists don't necessarily
put in every detail of the world around them, particularly if they are
in a rush to finish a commission or just don't want to waste the paint.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 18:40:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 19:56:15 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes?
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Sarah,
I remember one CostumeCon Historical winner (Toronto, I think) who wore
Italian Renn and even made her own shoes.  As I recall, she used the
pattern from Queta's Closet (Alteryears) Medieval Shoes for Lords and
Ladies ca 1100-1480.  It's a one strap shoe with a pointed toe. It costs
$8.50.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 19:54:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:07:20 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: McClintock Reprint (was Re: H-COST: Kilt info sources)
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>

At 02:10 PM 08/07/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>Ok, as for the kilt.  Now you should be aware that most feel that the kilt 
>was not worn by the Scots until AFTER 1600 or so.  Earlier than that, the 
>Celtic peoples (Irish, Scots, etc) dressed fairly alike.  Keep that in
mind.  
>A good (and one of the only) reference books you'll find to that end is "Old 
>Irish and Highland Dress, and that of the Isle of Mann" by H.F. McClintock. 
>It is out of print and very very hard to find though.

(snip)

I went by the Unicorn Books tent at the Alexandria, VA highland games this
July, and they said they're planning on doing a reprint of the McClintock
book soon, with color plates.  I checked their web site a week or so ago,
and they didn't have it up yet.  They're at:

http://www.scotpress.com

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 20:14:08 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Nursing mothers in period art
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 18:28:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Hope, I couldn't get these either.
   Michelle

>BTW,  your URLs nos. 1, 3, 4 & 5 didn't work for me.
>
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 20:48:58 1999
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	 Mon, 23 Aug 1999 19:01:34 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: antarctica
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 20:35:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

The responses have covered at least three entirely separate
expeditions.  Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton.  Very
different time frames, groups, and internal politics.  Can't
generalize from one to the other.  I think, but am not sure,
that is was the Scott expediton that involved the nordic
skis and dog sleds.  Those who raced to the pole all died.
I thought it was a mixed nationality group.  In any event,
most of my info on it came from a very detailed Public
Television show a few years ago.  Whether to travel heavy or
light was a matter of constant debate.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Deborah Pulliam
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 10:46 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: antarctica
>
>
>
> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
> <<I am writing a novel, and am wrestling with the clothing
> that the first
> explorers of Antarctica wore. >>
>
> This depends entirely on what nationality you're dealing
> with. The Brits
> firmly refused to do anything the way the Scandinavians
did, out of
> national pride and perversity. In consequence, they did
> bizarre things like
> insisting on taking gas-powered cars and trucks that, of
> course, refused to
> work in subzero temperatures. They insisted the cars would
be
> superior to
> dogs and sleds. Several of the exploreres also refused to
> take along skiis.
>
> Frank Hurley's outstanding photographs of Shackleton's
> Endurance voyage
> (1914 - 17) have recently been reprinted. Because they're
made from
> original glass plate negatives for the most part, the
visible
> detail is
> staggering -- lots of guernsey sweaters and skin coats,
> knitted caps and
> fur ear-flap hats. There are plenty of books out on this
expedition,
> including a couple of books called Endurance, as well as
South
> (Shackleton's own account) and a major biography of
> Shackleton. Shackleton
> also insisted that all of his officers keep journals, and
they do talk
> about clothing and provisioning.
>
>
> Deborah
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 20:49:30 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Nursing mothers in period art
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:18:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Shouldn't have been a problem with the URL's as they were
swiped and copied to my post and working when I sent it.
Sometimes very long  URL's split in half during transmission
and the end which goes to the next line loses its active
quality.  If you have any loose garbage at the end of the
URL, then manually move it in---sometimes the opposite,
something gets compressed into the URL from the text which
has to be manually split out.  The end of those URL's was
frequently .jpg if that helps, and for the super long ones,
they resulted from searches--include all of the garbage
until you get to some text that looks like real English.  It
may not work quite like this in programs other than
Microsoft Explorer, in which case, you may have to swipe and
copy all of the URL to the subject line on your browser and
hit enter to get results.  Good luck.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of KATE M BUNTING
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 9:31 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: Nursing mothers in period art
>
>
>
> -Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>
> Hope - I don't think your Rubens lady is a nursing mother
at
> all. The projection which might be seen as a baby's chin
is
> the upper part of her puffed sleeve. It was a common
fashion
> in the early 17th century to gather voluminous sleeves
> halfway down. Though she does seem to have a curious
> horizontal line below the top of her bodice on one side.
> BTW,  your URLs nos. 1, 3, 4 & 5 didn't work for me.
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 21:09:48 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I would agree with everything Margo has said and add a few items more.
They recommend several sleeve styles that just aren't correct. The
multi-pieced "Italian" sleeve is wrong, and the one they call a "Queen's"
sleeve is also wrong. I think that it is a blending of a mahoitered
sleeve with a mid-reign mondo shoulder roll, but the version they give in
the book never really existed. They also imply that the only form of
surcoat was the A-line shoulder pleated variety, when a more common style
was quite fitted and may have even been of a more "princess-line'
construction. 

I also agree with Margo in that the book is a good place to send
beginners, but with some warnings about the obvious points that can be
improved on.

Karen
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 17:04:14 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

ches@io.com wrote:

> Has anyone found the Elizabethan one in any store other than
> Hancock's?

I saw it at Hobby Lobby and a friend saw it at Joanns.

--Charlene

--
The trouble with doing something right the first time is that nobody
appreciates how difficult it was.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 21:29:23 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 22:39:31 -0400
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 06:42 PM 8/23/99 -0500, you wrote:

>
>I know that I've seen pics of women with things depending from their
>belts in my dad's history books.  As for aprons...when I wear an apron
>in garb it's *over* my belt so you might not necessarily see that I even
>have one on...much less if anything is hanging on it.  Which brings up
>another point...eyewitness accounts from the periods are often better,
>IMO, than pictures for providing information.  Artists don't necessarily
>put in every detail of the world around them, particularly if they are
>in a rush to finish a commission or just don't want to waste the paint.
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________


        While this is true, Breughal  was very accurate.  His painting
"Blind leading the Blind" is so accurate that modern physicians can tell
what ailment has caused each man's blindness.

        No one source is ever 100 percant accurate.  Research must use as
many different sources as possible to determine what was typically done.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 21:46:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:59:41 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Ron Carnegie wrote:
> 
<snip>
>         No one source is ever 100 percant accurate.  Research must use > as many different sources as possible to determine what was typically
> done.

This is the point I've been trying to make.  But we should also remember
that even when we are working from source materials that they may not
provide a *complete* and accurate portrayal of the period.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 23 22:05:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 20:17:31 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern #0663 from the Celtic Costume Collection.
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     This one inc. hat, shawl, vest, blouse and skirt, and is one of Andrea
Schewe's, according to a small box on the bottom left of the pattern
envelope.  
     If this has already been addressed, I beg everyone's pardon.  In
Simplicity #0663, Celtic Costume Collection, how inaccurate/accurate is the
shape of the sleeve pattern?  I can see some of the other flaws.  Also, I
note the vest is not boned.  Ought it to have been?  Thank you very much.
Carol, aka:  Gráinne ingen Domnaill Ildánaig, in the SCA, Inc.

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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Simplicity Pattern #0663 from the Celtic Costume
  Collection.
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:25 PM 8/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
>No, the vest is boned.  The boning goes between the lining and the
>muslin to hide it from the outer view...
>That's all I can offer on this one.
>
>Sarah
         My apologies.  I had looked for the boning in the notions, where
it is listed below/with all the other yardage.  I still would like opinions
on the cut of the sleeves of the blouse, if you would kindly share your
thoughts/expertise.  Thank you again.  Gra/inne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 08:08:33 1999
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-Poster: STRAUSS@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU

Sorry for the subject line. National Geographic used to cover those
old expeditions, since they often funded them. Check their index volumes
for the issues. You might find photos that way (Scott, Antarctica).

Bob

====================================================================
Bob Strauss                                      Cataloger
Hunter Library                                   Western Carolina U.
strauss@wcu.edu
Class home page:    http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss
Personal home page: http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss/personal
====================================================================
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 08:55:30 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: The Scott Expedition
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

The August 1956 issue of National Geographic has a
section on the Scott Expedition... I will see if I can
find it on lunch (The magazines are still in the trunk
of my car since my bookshelves aren't ready yet *g*)

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 09:03:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 10:22:31 -0500
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Nursing mothers in period art
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

A friend of mine just returned from Italy and brought me a book of the
paintings and frescos of Domenic Ghirlandaio (1449-1494) (drool,
drool!). I'll try to get some of the images up, but meanwhile I've
scanned the detail of the nursing mother from the "Birth of John the
Baptist" and popped it into a file at:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/italian/ghirlandaio.html
The image itself is large (a 194K jpeg)

It shows a chemise with a slit that extends almost to the neckline, a
blue underdress that fastens in the front, covered by a green overdress
with a loose blouson top that can be pulled out of the way. This bodice
is similar to many others depicted by Ghirlandaio and others of the
period, particularly on the Madonna or other mother figures. I would
recommend images depicting the "Slaughter of the Innocents" but these
can be quite disturbing. For more paintings by Ghirlandaio, see Carol
Gersten's art sites. I believe the URLs have already been posted but
redundancy never hurts: 
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/ghirlandaio/index.html

- Hope

-------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vemront, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag
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From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Announcing Jean Hunnisett US Tour!
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-Poster: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>


Greetings List:

Reknowned costumer for stage, film and TV and author of  books on period
costuming, JEAN HUNNISETT, will tour the United States in June, 2000

Miss Hunnisett will begin her tour in Williamsburg VA at the annual meeting of
the Costume Society of America, May 31 - June 3, 2000.

Her first lecture and workshop will be at the Daughters of the American
Revolution Museum in Washington DC, June 9 and 11. The workshop will be on
draping Regency era dresses.

The next stop will be in New York City the second week of June. The exact
dates, venue and topics will be announced soon.

Stops in the Midwest have yet to be confirmed.

Miss Hunnisett will lecture and lead a workshop in Denver June 24 and 25. The
workshop topic will be taken from her book "Period Costume for Stage and
Screen  Medieval to 1500"

There will be  a lecture and workshop in Portland Oregon June 19 and 20, venue
and topic to be announced.

A lecture and workshop is scheduled in San Francisco, California for June 23
and 24, venue and topic to be announced.

The final stop on Miss Hunnisett’s tour of the United States will be in Los
Angeles for the annual Costume College, sponsored by the Costumers Guild West,
June 30 - July 4.

Miss Hunnisett is the author of four books that are standards in costume shops
and sewing rooms the world over: Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500 -
1800 Vol I, Vol II 1800 - 1909 and Vol III Medieval to 1500 published by
Players Press. Still to be published is a two part work: Cloaks and Coats Vol
I Cloaks, Mantles, Wraps and Stoles and Vol II Dominos Dolmans and Coats. Her
books will be available by advance order and at the lectures and workshops.
Miss Hunnisett will be available to autograph her books.

For further information, to purchase tickets, order books or to arrange a
lecture and workshop, please go to our web site:

http://www.costumemag.com 

or contact:

Mary Denise Smith
Costume & Dressmaker Press
Publications for Serious Costumers
601 East Main Street #5C
Trinidad CO 81082
719-845-1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 11:19:23 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: National Geographic
Message-Id: <935512204.4212.109@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:30:04 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

> National Geographic used to cover those
> old expeditions, since they often funded them. Check their index volumes
> for the issues. You might find photos that way (Scott, Antarctica).

I have the CD set of NG going back to day one. If I have time this weekend,
I'll be happy to check it out and see if there is any useful info on the
subject. Actually, I wouldn't mind doing a search for anyone (well, within
reason) with this nifty tool, just let me know what you want looked up.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kirby Hall
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:37:43 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Dave wrote:
> So how did those that attended get on;
> Wether as participants or as public ?
> I never managed to get there; so would like to know.

It was wonderful. We were on top of the hill in the 12-14c camp and had the
best view. The weather held, except for a hurrycane size gust of wind which
toppled our cooking tent, but we were all in it and could keep it down and
place the windscreen differently against the next one, which never came. We
had a double rainbow after that.

There were even more re-enactors than last year (about 2500), more vistors
too (20000?) and the market was bigger too. We bought a lot; purse, drum,
sticks, books (lots!), little knickknacks, etc. Everybody was super
friendly (all equally mad!!!), visitors were polite and not pushy. Pike
practice went wonderful (we are a rabble being knocked into shape by a city
captain (Flemish 1300)) and everybody enjoyed our music and singing. The
parade was magnificent, especially the one on sunday, as was the free fight
(but I didn't see that). The atmosphere in the beer tent was relaxed but
crowded. Sunday evening was best there, lots' of people had left and we
could move around then. We made a lot of friends.

In short: a great time was had by all...

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 12:47:50 1999
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Message-ID: <84c6a401.24f43765@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:59:01 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
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-Poster: Finafyr@aol.com

I have been asked by alot of people to make costumes for them...but so far I 
have not been abole to figure out how much to charge.....can anyone help me 
figure out how much to charge?????
Renee
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:04:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:13:18 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Request for What to Tell Newcomers about How to Dress and Act  in the Medieval Period (ca. 500-1550)
In-Reply-To: <E11IS7N-0000XA-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

To choose what to wear you really need to have some idea of a persona -
where and when does he want to be from?  How did he get interested in
the SCA?  Is there a particular period of music he likes to perform, or
does he do Icelandic sagas?  Is he interested in the history of the
Crusades, or the Hundred Years War, or in Rene of Anjou's style of
tournaments?  Is he interested in heraldry- if so, choose a time when it
was important.  These sorts of things will help him find his niche.

But if he still doesn't have a clue, I would recommend a simple tunic
and trousers, but it doesn't have to be quick and nasty.  Go for a
definite Saxon or Viking look, or even Norman (boo, hiss :-))  He can
look good without too much sewing skill and in simple fabrics, and also
with simple and cheap tablewear and other gear.  And, if he later
decides he wants to wear very tight hose and very short doublets, or a
peascod belly and trunk hose, he still has something easy to wear and
easy to care for, for staggering to the shower block first thing in the
morning, or helping take down the marquee, or whatever. 

Jean



In message <E11IS7N-0000XA-00@mongoose.slip.net>, "Carol J. Bell Cannon"
<cjcannon@greymists.com> writes
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>   I know the conventional wisdom seems to be : T-tunic and trews or some
>variety.  I've already got a long list of my own, but I'd like to solicit
>your thoughts.  This man doesn't have a clue who/when he wants to be, how
>to go about choosing a persona, how to attire/equip himself, nor about
>manners/customs in the SCA, BUT he's intelligent.  He's asking beforehand.
>He & I will appreciate it if you would lend your advice and expertise.
>Many, many thanks in advance.  Carol / Gra/inne, in the SCA   PS If anyone
>has the contact info. for the appropriate Seneschal/Chatelaine for the
>group local to Taunton, NJ, please send that to me PRIVATELY, NOT to the list.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:06:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 14:16:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: National Geographic
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 8/24/1999 9:31:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
stitchwitch@excite.com writes:

<< I have the CD set of NG going back to day one. If I have time this weekend,
 I'll be happy to check it out and see if there is any useful info on the
 subject. Actually, I wouldn't mind doing a search for anyone (well, within
 reason) with this nifty tool, just let me know what you want looked up.
 
 Kate
 ----
 StitchWitch >>
How does one acquire the CD set of NG for the past? That sounds like a neat 
tool.  Is it readily available to the consumer??

angela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:08:51 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <84c6a401.24f43765@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 14:29:22 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> -Poster: Finafyr@aol.com
>
> I have been asked by alot of people to make costumes for them...but so far
I
> have not been abole to figure out how much to charge.....can anyone help
me
> figure out how much to charge?????
> Renee
>
I charge a decent wage plus materials.  I consider a decent wage as $5 an
hour, because I don't declare my costume income on my taxes, so it works out
to a higher regular wage.  If you bring in enough income to declare it I
would charge more.  It also depends on what you're doing.  My hourly rate
goes up if I have to shop for the customer or doing hand-finishing or
embroidery, simply to discourage it.  I will also give a discount if the
costumer has his own materials already.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:13:45 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: National Geographic
Message-Id: <935518909.20915.233@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:21:49 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> How does one acquire the CD set of NG for the past? That sounds like a
neat 
> tool.  Is it readily available to the consumer??
> 
> angela

One goes to Costco™, plunks down one's money, and viola! I was just there
last week, and they still have several sets available. They come in a nice
wooden chest, with the NG logo in metal on the front. Very classy! 
For those who are not near a Costco, check your local bookstore. If they
don't have it, they can prob'ly order it. Or contact NG, I'm sure they'd be
happy to sell you a set!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I tend to go to the local costume shop, figure out how
much they are charging and "add a bit" because what I
make is better quality... ;-)

Sarah


--- Finafyr@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Finafyr@aol.com
> 
> I have been asked by alot of people to make costumes
> for them...but so far I 
> have not been abole to figure out how much to
> charge.....can anyone help me 
> figure out how much to charge?????
> Renee
> 
>
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>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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References: <19990823190823.1047.rocketmail@web801.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:54:36 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

bells on kids are good though - let's you know where the little darlings are
they can't move without jangling so they can't hide!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wench bosoms


> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> > costumes.  Bells at the
> > fairs started because the first fair started in the
> > 60's and hippies wore
> > bells.  Costume directors banned them but people
> > still wear them, sounding
> > more like a bunch of sheep walking along the road
> > than anything else.
> 
> 
> Something people have to remember, though, is this...
> a good portion of the people who go to ren faires are
> not reenactors but fantasy actors/roleplayers.  These
> people are not so much interested in the historical
> accuracy as in having fun.  
> 
> The largest faire around here is King Richard's Faire
> on Cape Cod... most of the people I meet there are
> "fantasy" costumers, not "historical".
> 
> Sarah
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
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References: <Pine.SUN.3.90.990824100532.2383C-100000@muon> <37C1DC52.9F108140@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:59:22 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

kat
yes agree totally
bella
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts


> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> The Purple Elephant wrote:
> > 
> > Agreed. In other pictures of the 16th century lower class it's rare to
> > see women even wearing a belt. Mostly they wear aprons. I guess if you
> > had enough stuff that you really had to carry around you used your
> > apron or a basket. After all, unless you were heading to market (and
> > therefore carrying a basket) you probably didn't venture very far from
> > your house.
> 
> I know that I've seen pics of women with things depending from their
> belts in my dad's history books.  As for aprons...when I wear an apron
> in garb it's *over* my belt so you might not necessarily see that I even
> have one on...much less if anything is hanging on it.  Which brings up
> another point...eyewitness accounts from the periods are often better,
> IMO, than pictures for providing information.  Artists don't necessarily
> put in every detail of the world around them, particularly if they are
> in a rush to finish a commission or just don't want to waste the paint.
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908232018.NAA50982@scv4.apple.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:57:36 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

well, you can't always *see* the pouch anyway I agree
as to all kinds of tat hanging off - ie. bells, feathers, dried frogs,
hagstones etc - I suppose it's up to the individual re-enactor, but too many
is a bit what we call 'wincey'
wince denotes someone who spends too much time with shift hanging off
shoulders, going barefoot & gazing at the trees / stars
ho hum
bella
----- Original Message -----
From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 9:23 PM
Subject: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts


>
> -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
>
>
> Hi Emma,
>
> Check out Breughel's pictures of crowds of lower-income people--
> the sort you would expect to be hanging things off their belts. If
> I recall correctly, you only occasionally see someone with an object
> hanging off his or her belt-- and usually it's a belt pouch, but not
> everybody pictured has a belt pouch.
>
> cheers,
>
> Gail DeCamp
>
> >but 'kirtling up' your skirts (ie. tucking bits into belts etc) is
totally
> >authentic for Tudor / Elizabethan.  It makes it much easier to do any
real
> >work, rather than just wandering about.  I work with heavy horses on an
LH
> >site in England and couldn't do what I do if I had to worry about
tripping
> >over yards of linen!
> >Same with hanging stuff off belts.  Without pockets, where else do you
put
> >your stuff?
> >I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted anyway...
> >emma
>
>
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:25:42 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
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References: <84c6a401.24f43765@aol.com> <006201beee5e$96d48840$a2f67ad1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:27:43 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Hi
I make re-enactment stuff in England.
Here are approximate charges (in £ I'm afraid):
Doublet / cotehardie    £45
Hose / breeches        £30
Bodice    £40
Skirt    £25 - depends on amount of material
Livery coat / casaque      £60
This is all for basic working class / middle class kit: no braids,
decorations etc
Discounts (10%) if people provide own materials
I was in a similar situation to you last year & still am not sure I'm
charging the right amounts!!
Hope it's helpful
Bella
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrea Gideon <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming


>
> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
>
> > -Poster: Finafyr@aol.com
> >
> > I have been asked by alot of people to make costumes for them...but so
far
> I
> > have not been abole to figure out how much to charge.....can anyone help
> me
> > figure out how much to charge?????
> > Renee
> >
> I charge a decent wage plus materials.  I consider a decent wage as $5 an
> hour, because I don't declare my costume income on my taxes, so it works
out
> to a higher regular wage.  If you bring in enough income to declare it I
> would charge more.  It also depends on what you're doing.  My hourly rate
> goes up if I have to shop for the customer or doing hand-finishing or
> embroidery, simply to discourage it.  I will also give a discount if the
> costumer has his own materials already.
> Andrea
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:27:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I just thought of something... there have always been
"gypsies" who traveled here there and everywhere... If
my memory serves me right, they WERE in the habit of
hanging things from their belt so that they didn't get
lost as they traveled... I know this isn't what we
were looking at, but it's something...

Sarah



>well, you can't always *see* the pouch anyway I
> agree
> as to all kinds of tat hanging off - ie. bells,
> feathers, dried frogs,
> hagstones etc - I suppose it's up to the individual
> re-enactor, but too many
> is a bit what we call 'wincey'
> wince denotes someone who spends too much time with
> shift hanging off
> shoulders, going barefoot & gazing at the trees /
> stars
> ho hum
> bella
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 9:23 PM
> Subject: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from
> their belts
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> >
> >
> > Hi Emma,
> >
> > Check out Breughel's pictures of crowds of
> lower-income people--
> > the sort you would expect to be hanging things off
> their belts. If
> > I recall correctly, you only occasionally see
> someone with an object
> > hanging off his or her belt-- and usually it's a
> belt pouch, but not
> > everybody pictured has a belt pouch.
> >
> > cheers,
> >
> > Gail DeCamp
> >
> > >but 'kirtling up' your skirts (ie. tucking bits
> into belts etc) is
> totally
> > >authentic for Tudor / Elizabethan.  It makes it
> much easier to do any
> real
> > >work, rather than just wandering about.  I work
> with heavy horses on an
> LH
> > >site in England and couldn't do what I do if I
> had to worry about
> tripping
> > >over yards of linen!
> > >Same with hanging stuff off belts.  Without
> pockets, where else do you
> put
> > >your stuff?
> > >I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted anyway...
> > >emma
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:37:07 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: antarctica
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<The responses have covered at least three entirely separate expeditions.
Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton.  Very different time frames, groups, and
internal politics.  Can't generalize from one to the other. >>

Well, if there's no information available on the Scott expedition, I'd say
it would be better to generalize from other expeditions in the same time
period than to make things up. In addition, the original question asked
about clothing terminology and vocabulary, which certainly can be
generalized from one English expedition to another at the very least. In
many cases, the expeditions used the same suppliers.

<< I think, but am not sure, that is was the Scott expediton that involved
the nordic
skis and dog sleds. >>

Actually, it was Amundsen, not surprisingly, who pioneered the use of both
dogs and skis.

This is way off topic; if anyone wants further information, contact me
privately.

Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:38:45 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:48:31 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> I just thought of something... there have always been
> "gypsies" who traveled here there and everywhere... If
> my memory serves me right, they WERE in the habit of
> hanging things from their belt so that they didn't get
> lost as they traveled... I know this isn't what we
> were looking at, but it's something...
> 
> Sarah

Y'know, I've never played with the SCA or anything, but that sounds like the
kind of persona that I could work with. Where might I search to find out
more information about this type of person in that age? (Oh, dear, another
project!)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:52:17 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <bdb66dd1.24f43b72@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: National Geographic
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 15:00:46 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The NG at COSTCO is about $129.

If I remember the reviews correctly, the CD is not indexed well and that you
have to print out a whole page.  You can't just cut out the image if you
need to like having the magazine in hand.   The program will not allow you
to cut and paste anything into your software programs.  This is for
copyright protection.  It is very similar to looking at a website on
Aricobat Reader (sp).

I was really excited about the CD when it came out.  Then it was priced
$199.  I listened to the reviews.  I am glad I sat on my hands.  But
listening to the reviews helped me decide how to layout my Vintage
Publications.  I wanted the public to be able to use in a friendly manner
the images and text.

On the other hand, if you want to collect NG, I can tell you a cheap way to
do it.  Call your public library and ask them to sell you donated issues.
My son collects them for inspiration for his artwork.  Our libraries save
the NG donations and sells them to me for 10 cents an issue.  I buy them in
box fulls.  If my son has repeat issues, he cuts them up for artwork or
trades them with other collectors for issues that he doesn't have.  Goodwill
stores also sell NG for about a quarter per issue.  Rare issues or complete
years can be purchased on Ebay auctions.  Last Christmas, I gave my son 12
boxes of NG.  I also buy past issues Smithsonian magazine from the library.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 13:59:41 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> Y'know, I've never played with the SCA or anything,
> but that sounds like the
> kind of persona that I could work with. Where might
> I search to find out
> more information about this type of person in that
> age? (Oh, dear, another
> project!)

Well, I play a gypsy in NERO (like SCA but more
fantasy) and I have found that the books I find the
most useful are the gypsy mythology and superstition
books... they give lots of reasons for why the do
certain things and wear certain things... I'm not sure
the names of the books I have... I will look when I
get home...

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 14:02:27 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 12:04:12 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>I just thought of something... there have always been
>"gypsies" who traveled here there and everywhere... If
>my memory serves me right, they WERE in the habit of
>hanging things from their belt so that they didn't get
>lost as they traveled... I know this isn't what we
>were looking at, but it's something...
>
>Sarah

Don't forget pockets!  They're period!

Karie/Allessandre


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 14:52:40 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: antarctica
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-Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>

At 02:48 PM 8/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
><<The responses have covered at least three entirely separate expeditions.
>Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton.  Very different time frames, groups, and
>internal politics.  Can't generalize from one to the other. >>
>
>Well, if there's no information available on the Scott expedition, I'd say
>it would be better to generalize from other expeditions in the same time
>period than to make things up. In addition, the original question asked
>about clothing terminology and vocabulary, which certainly can be
>generalized from one English expedition to another at the very least. In
>many cases, the expeditions used the same suppliers.
>

In fact I went to the library this morning, and got out a shallow but
fascinating book, ANTARCTICA: Great Stories from the Frozen Continent,
published by Readers' Digest.  Among many other things, it has a discussion
of sledging, what the old explorers used to eat, and yes! a sidebar titled,
"A Well-Dressed Explorer From the Heroic Age."  From this I quote, with my
own comments in brackets:

"Furs were only worn on hands and feet.  Scott disapproved of them for other
garments... [the dickweed! sorry.]  The outer windproof suit was made from
thin, waterproofed gaberdine and consisted of a top, trousers and leggings.
The suit had to be easy to put on and to take off, and at the same time
completely impervious to blown snow... Hands were protected by woollen
halfmitts which extended from the knuckles almost to the elbows.  Over these
were worn lined fur mitts.  In addition for outer work, there were felt and
woolen mitts.  These could be windproofed by simply wetting them so taht
they froze -- the ice formed an impenetrable covering.

"A fleecy helmet [balaclava?] woven from camel hair protected all but the
wearer's face.  Officers and men...each wore a thick suit of underclothing,
one or two flannel shirts, a jersey, a pair of pilot cloth trousers, and a
pyjama jacket.  Some wore a woollen scarf, while others relied on a collar
to keep their necks warm.  [What on earth is pilot cloth?]

Regards,
Brenda


Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 15:39:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 15:41:13
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: antarctica
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-Poster: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>

Some detail about the Scott expedition's clothing can be found 
in Roland Huntford's Scott and Amundsen, which was later re-
released as The Last Place on Earth. The video 90 South,
from Milestone Film and Video (212-865-7449) shows actual
footage of the expedition. The BBC production The Last Place
on Earth (now out on video) seems to have reproduced the
clothing fairly exactly.

---Caroline Dechert
enilorac@voicenet.com / Carodec@aol.com  / caroline@agcsys.com
"How  fleeting are all  human  passions compared with the 
 massive continuity of ducks."     Dorothy Sayers, Gaudy_Night
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 16:51:10 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I don't recommend not declaring this income.  Charge a really decent wage, 
say $15 an hour, and declare it as schedule C income.  You can deduct all 
your expenses from this, you know, but you should pay your fair share of 
taxes on it.  (This can be a lot, since you not only pay income tax but also 
both employer and employee portion of social security.)  But I don't really 
want to have to face my Maker for diddling the government out of relatively 
minuscule taxes.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 12:40:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quest about how much to charge for costuming
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:59 PM 8/24/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Finafyr@aol.com
>
>I have been asked by alot of people to make costumes for them...but so far I 
>have not been abole to figure out how much to charge.....can anyone help me 
>figure out how much to charge?????
>Renee
               The rule of thumb most of the seamstresses I have known use
was: twice the cost of all the materials and/or pattern, plus enough to
cover their time [the latter varying with the complexity of the work and
their experience, as well as personal factors]. Carol / Gra/inne
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Message-ID: <001501beee7c$6ea33e20$4ff4accf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>
Subject: H-COST: World Millenium Quilt Contest
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:02:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

May be someone can help us with this question:

The CSA National Office has had a person call from the Czech Republic,
asking
for info on a World Millenium Quilt Contest.  Does anyone know anything
about this?  Or can you pass this message to someone who might know.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com (my other hat)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 17:03:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:12:27 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: National Geographic
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 8/24/1999 12:03:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< If I remember the reviews correctly, the CD is not indexed well and that 
you
 have to print out a whole page.  You can't just cut out the image if you
 need to like having the magazine in hand.   The program will not allow you
 to cut and paste anything into your software programs.  This is for
 copyright protection.  It is very similar to looking at a website on
 Aricobat Reader (sp).
 
 I was really excited about the CD when it came out.  Then it was priced
 $199.  I listened to the reviews.  I am glad I sat on my hands.  But
 listening to the reviews helped me decide how to layout my Vintage
 Publications.  I wanted the public to be able to use in a friendly manner
 the images and text. >>
But if you just want the images to design clothes of your own, that's not 
really much of a drawback. I recognize that perhaps you can't utilize them, 
but for my purposes, it's really a way to incorporate periods into the 
ultimate costume that I'm creating, so not replicating photos except in pages 
from NG isn't too much to sacrifice.  $129 is not much more than I'd pay for 
a larger reference tome, and I don't cut those up, right?

Your son's collection sound fabulous, but since I've packed my house to the 
rafters with vintage and costumes, I don't know where I'd put actual mags! 
EEK!

Thanks for the input though, I may keep my eyes open for particularly 
interesting old NG's at thrift stores.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: 
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, 
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: 
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
http://come.to/costumes
http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 17:08:51 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Juan Alcega's farthingale
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:30:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

I've always just worn a bumroll under my Elizabethans and have decided to
make a farthingale.  I'm interested in hearing from people who have used the
Juan Alcega farthingale method of tucks as casings, rather than using some
sort of tape as casing.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 17:37:39 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:16 PM 08/23/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com
>
>I would agree with everything Margo has said and add a few items more.
>They recommend several sleeve styles that just aren't correct. The
>multi-pieced "Italian" sleeve is wrong, and the one they call a "Queen's"
>sleeve is also wrong. I think that it is a blending of a mahoitered
>sleeve with a mid-reign mondo shoulder roll, but the version they give in
>the book never really existed. 

Good heavens, you're right.  I've assumed this sleeve was correct for so
long that I never noticed that it doesn't seem to exist.  Thanks for
pointing it out.

 running off to edit my website,

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 17:37:45 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: good middle eastern
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:59:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

I'm looking for good reliable refrences for medival or renassaince middle
eastern.  I admit that I am a "garb snark", so I will not make it unless I
can document it.  I'd like to do middle eastern as an alternative persona,
but don't know anyone who does it.  Please point me in the right direction.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 18:22:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Juan Alcega's farthingale
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:30 PM 08/24/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
>I've always just worn a bumroll under my Elizabethans and have decided to
>make a farthingale.  I'm interested in hearing from people who have used the
>Juan Alcega farthingale method of tucks as casings, rather than using some
>sort of tape as casing.

I did it once, for a Victorian hoopskirt a Long time ago.  As I recall, it
worked just fine, as long as the tucks are on the inside of the garment, if
they're one the outside the hoops stick out.  



Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 18:31:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:25:52 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
In-Reply-To: <37BF23D2.33BA5040@home.com>
References: <3e1b51ef.24f06ae6@aol.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>>  'I am not so
>> much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so
>> much out there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self
>> respecting woman of any class in history until the 20th century would
>> have let her bosom hang out like that.  Never.  <snip>
>
>What about the Minoans and the virgins of Queen Elizabeth I's court?  I
>was under the impression that both wore clothing which revealed the
>nipple if not the entire bust.

I would have to look for the pictures but, I can document nipples showing
for England, Spain, France & I believe Italy, in the 16th century.
However, none of these in any way resembled the "wench" look (yuck).

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 18:31:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:35:34 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nursing Mothers in Period Art
In-Reply-To: <37ce4b7a.173520264@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
References: <000301beeccd$0a6cb5e0$820bfdd0@sharp-9070->
 <000301beeccd$0a6cb5e0$820bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

There is a unique style of gown in a Spanish portrait.  "Virgin and Child"
by Luis de Morales, c. 1570 (Museo del Prado, Madrid).  The Virgin is
wearing a red gown with two slits in it joined with a button at the
neckline.  the slits reach from the centre front neckline diagonally to
each breast/nipple.  The Virgin's smock appears to have a centre (?)
opening in it and is obviously pulled to the side as needed. I know this is
later than needed but, the lines of the gown actually resemble earlier
Spanish gowns.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:44:20 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Syke's Sutlering - help
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

Can anyone please help me track down contact info for Syke's Sutlering?

Thanks,
Danielle

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I would have to look for the pictures but, I can document nipples showing
>for England, Spain, France & I believe Italy, in the 16th century.
>However, none of these in any way resembled the "wench" look (yuck).
>
I'd be very interested to see references.  Let me reiterate that I said
"*ladies* of the court", so pictures of courtesans don't count!

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 19:12:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 20:25:07 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter and Savoy
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

My opinion on Winter & Savoy - a good place for a beginner to start if used
in conjunction with Arnold's "Pattern's of Fashion".  Used on it's own
there are too many errors and "created" fashions.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 19:12:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 20:18:31 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Check out Breughel's pictures of crowds of lower-income people--
>the sort you would expect to be hanging things off their belts. If
>I recall correctly, you only occasionally see someone with an object
>hanging off his or her belt-- and usually it's a belt pouch, but not
>everybody pictured has a belt pouch.

Actually, I have seen the strangest thing.  In "Victoria and Albert Museum
The Tapestry Collection, Medieval and Renaissance" by George Wingfield
Digby, HMSO, c 1980.  There are two tapestries, "La Main Chaude" & "Rustic
Sports", in which almost everyone in these tapestries are wearing odd
swaths of light (white? - the pictures are B&W) coloured fabric which have
metal rings sewn to them and various items are tied to the rings.  Things
like: combs, scissors, rosaries, bundles & containers, knives, a recorder
like instrument, and various other things which I can't readily identify.
The text identifies most of the people as shepherds & shepherdessess.

There are no dates or locations for either of these tapestries but, I would
guess 2nd half 15th century, possibly Flemish.  So for those who need to
suspend things from their waist - a new approach.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 19:45:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 20:59:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Syke's Sutlering - help
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19990824194420.00a137e0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Hi!  They have an URL with an online catalog at
http://members.aol.com/~sykesutler/

It was great meeting you at Pennsic.  Too bad I didn't have more time to
hang out with you guys.  Next year, though, I am for absolute sure not
Managing the War Chronicle, and will have more time for classes and fun
stuff.

Will you be at the Tournament of Chivalry in Akron, OH?

See you soon,

Drea

 On Tue, 24 Aug 1999, Danielle Nunn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> Can anyone please help me track down contact info for Syke's Sutlering?
> 
> Thanks,
> Danielle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I would have to look for the pictures but, I can document nipples showing
> for England, Spain, France & I believe Italy, in the 16th century.
> However, none of these in any way resembled the "wench" look (yuck).

It was always my impression that this was either extremely late 
Elizabethan or Jacobean. Most of the actual portrait I've seen have 
had the nipples painted over (making the neckline look like the women 
have *very* low hanging breasts) but the woodcuts show them more 
clearly.

But like you say, none of them look like the women with the dresses 
off the shoulders or their breasts hanging over the top of their 
bodice as one sees at many Renn Faires and SCA events (usually on 
"fringie" types, rather than the women who are making contributions 
to the group.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 21:00:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 22:14:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: OOPS-Syke's Sutlering - help
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Doh!  Sorry about that, list.  That was meant to be a private message.

Drea

>  On Tue, 24 Aug 1999, Danielle Nunn wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> > 
> > Greetings,
> > 
> > Can anyone please help me track down contact info for Syke's Sutlering?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Danielle
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 23:19:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:33:06 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Good Middle Eastern
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

To do proper Middle Eastern, you must consult Jennifer Scarce's book
"Women's Costume in the Near and Middle East."  Accept no substitutes.  If
you can't quote from this book, the other garb snarks will mock you.  It's
available through Amazon and/or Barnes & Noble online.  (The price SHOULD
be about $38 but I've seen it listed at $70.  Check around.)

Leslie
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I have a couple of questions for anyone who has seen the Titanic on Tour
exhibit (Jenny, Penny?)regarding the Dinner Dress and the Jump Dress.  I
have been checking out some of the photos that are up on the web and I am a
bit perplexed about a few things that I'm hoping someone on the list can
clear up for me.

With regard to the Jump Dress, I read on "That Sinking Feeling" web site
that this dress used no sequins at all and that it was black and clear
"pearls".  Is this true?  If so, what kind of pearls?  Where they iridescent
or just plain black and clear?  They also said on this web site that the
round medallions at the bottom of the dress were rows of circled
black pearls with no sequins.  Is this true?  I have found two different
pictures of the bottom of the jump dress on the web but they almost appear
to be two different dresses.  On one, the black sheer  overdress comes
straight across at the bottom in the front and is held together with two
rhinstone "buttons". Kind of like this:

          |        \    /        |
          |         \  /         |
          |          \/          |
          | ____*_____|


     Bottom of Sheer Overdress

The other looks more like it slants down and towards the back and
is not held together at all. Kind of like this:

        |   /    \   |
        |  /      \  |
        | /        \ |
        |/          \|
    Bottom of Sheer Overdress

Were there two different dresses circulating on the exhibit circuit?

Also, with regard to the Dinner Dress, are there any seams in the black
overdress, or is it all one continuous piece cut strategically? How are the
front, right-sided "flounces" integrated into the back and train section?  I
have some pretty good pictures of different views (front, side and back)
that I got of the web, but I am wracking my brains trying to figure out how
the h*** they draped it?!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 24 23:59:14 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Antarctic
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:28:47 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Over the last year or so, with certain anniversaries and re-jigging of
Antarctic treaties, there have been a lot of articles in Australian
newspapers, including pictures, covering events from the beginning of this
century.

At least one of these has a web site where you might be able to call stuff
up through:

www.theage.com.au

Also, there is a picture of Mawson, one of the early explorers, on the
Australian $100...or so I am told (but one of these days...!)

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 00:19:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 22:27:54 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Good Middle Eastern
References: <4.1.19990824212959.036e26c0@mail.canfield.com>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> 
> To do proper Middle Eastern, you must consult Jennifer Scarce's book
> "Women's Costume in the Near and Middle East."  Accept no substitutes.  If
> you can't quote from this book, the other garb snarks will mock you.  It's
> available through Amazon and/or Barnes & Noble online.  (The price SHOULD
> be about $38 but I've seen it listed at $70.  Check around.)
> 
> Leslie
>  __


You can also try bibliofind.com and bookfinder.com. I have a 
photocopy version of this book, but the real one is on my
wishlist! I have to point out that the book is primarily
about Turkish costume, and fairly late.
  Try finding books with Persian/Turkish/Moghul paintings
from the period you're interested in.
 Oh, and Wendy Buonaventura's "Serpent of the Nile."
Terrific illustrations.

And the *fabulous* Max Tilke:
http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/contents.html

good luck!

Susan Fatemi
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From Cheryl@sessionware.com  Wed Aug 25 00:49:46 1999
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From: Hand-Fan Webmaster <Cheryl@Hand-Fan.ORG>
To: 
Cc: "'lfdutra@ibm.net'" <lfdutra@ibm.net>
Subject: Special FAN auction, Thursday August 26th
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 23:07:36 -0700
Importance: high
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Hello!

I hope you have had a great summer.  I will be working on updating the fan
website in the next week, but wanted to send you this important announcement
about rare fans for sale in São Paulo, Brazil that arrived this evening in
my mailbox:

Dutra Auctions are selling by auction an important fan collection on August
26th. 18 are Imperial fans from 18th and 19th century, all of them about
Brazil and Portugal, Bragança and Orleans family - D.Maria I, D. João VI, D.
Pedro I and D. Pedro II, weddings, birthdays, Brazil´s independence date and
others memorial dates.
If you would like more information about this auction, please contact Dutra
Auctions at the above email address or visit their website:

Home page:

http://www.dutraleiloes.com.br/

Fan images:

http://www.dutraleiloes.com.br/cat06.html

http://www.dutraleiloes.com.br/cat07.html

I will send out another notice once the fan website has been updated.

**Please note: The International Fan Collector's Guild never sells or
distributes the email addresses of its members**

Sincerely
Cheryl
_______________________________
Cheryl Melnick, Webmistress
International Fan Collector's Guild
webmistress@hand-fan.org
* 408-559-7799 x 222
http://www.hand-fan.org

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 03:03:31 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: good middle eastern
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Try joining Spicetrial@onelist.com, dedicated to ME stuff

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 01:57:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 03:03:30 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Nipples & breast showing
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>>  'I am not so
>> much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so
>> much out there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self
>> respecting woman of any class in history until the 20th century would
>> have let her bosom hang out like that.  Never.  <snip>
>
>What about the Minoans and the virgins of Queen Elizabeth I's court?  I
>was under the impression that both wore clothing which revealed the
>nipple if not the entire bust.

>I would have to look for the pictures but, I can document nipples showing
for England, Spain, France & I believe Italy, in the 16th century.
However, none of these in any way resembled the "wench" look (yuck).

And Bronze age , african , polynesians, early 19th  nipples were rouged and
dresses wet in high fashion, to show off the nipples see many issues of
punch etc, ladies dyed of pneumonia because of their keeness to show off
their nipples. Victirian bustle style evening dresses were pretty bust
revealing too.

Examples are pretty numerous although I fear I may be getting too old to go
for those styles :0)

Mel
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter and Savoy
In-reply-to: <199908242343.RAA08770@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi all, 

I've heard this book referred to but never seen a copy.  Did Imiss 
the ISBN and other details (like title?) being posted or is it so well-
known that no-one bothered?

Would some kind soul pleas post the details (again)?

Many thanks

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 04:19:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 02:35:52 +0000
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings Lilinah wrote:

> I saw a guy at an SCA Collegium (where classes are taught and people learn
> about being more authentic) in a more-or-less Elizabethan doublet with
> slashed panels on the sleeves. With it he is wearing a pair of loose pants,
> obviously made to go with his doublet, cuz they have matching slashed panels
> running down the legs; they come down to his *ankles* (or the tops of his
> feet, actually) and have a *lace cuff* there.

Well, I can't judge because I didn't see them, but is possible that they were
period. If this more-or-less Elizabethan doublet was German he could have been
wearing pluderhosen. These were very baggy and tied off at the knee, or
sometimes longer as far down as the ankle. There's an example of these in
Janet Arnold.

> These are pants of absolutely no period - what an odd (and ugly) concatenation
> of styles. I mean, if he thinks it's "weird" to wear proper Elizabethan men's
> pants (and there a variety of shape choices - one doesn't have to wear the
> little pumkins), why does he think these ugly pants look good? I'm guessing,
> because they *feel* like modern pants?

There are examples from 16th c. Frisia that show men wearing what looks
exactly like modern pants with very wide legs. They would fit right along side
the baggy pants that kids wear today, except they don't drag on the ground,
but stop six inches short. These were mostly poor fisherman, so I imagine the
short hem kept them out of the water. The jacket worn with them looks just
like an old-fashioned flannel coat.

Why do people think that modern ugly clothes look good?

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 02:35:56 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Margo suggested:

> Has anyone mentioned the National Geographic Society as a source for research
> on late 19th and 20th century explorers?  Copious photos and articles have
> been printed in the magazine, in addition the Society sponsors expiditions
> and could probably make records available.  

A better source might be the Royal Geographic Society. Scott was a member and
was heavily funded by them, I believe.

Hope added:

>> The responses have covered at least three entirely separate expeditions:
>> Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton. Very different time frames, groups, and
>> internal politics. Can't generalize from one to the other. I think, but am
>> not sure, that is was the Scott expediton that involved the nordic skis
>> and dog sleds.

Nope. the Scott expedition got in a lot of trouble because he DIDN'T use dogs
and sleds. He tried to be modern and use motor sledges, but the extreme
conditions in Antarctica prevented them from running. One of them was lost
almost immediately when it broke through the ice and sank. He also tried to
use Siberian ponies. Unfortunately, the man he sent to buy them new nothing
about horses and bought old and sickly animals. Amundsen used dogs and sleds,
left later than Scott and beat him to the poll. Scott reached the pool only to
find that he was not the first and died trying to make it to his supply cache.

>> Those who raced to the pole all died. I thought it was a mixed nationality
>> group. In any event, most of my info on it came from a very detailed Public
>> Television show a few years ago. Whether to travel heavy or light was a
>> matter of constant debate.

Scott's expedition was all Brits. They had a lot of trouble with supplies.
Their horses died one by one on the way to the poll. In the end they were on
foot. I believe the PBS (BBC?) series was:

THE LAST PLACE ON EARTH (Scott and Amundsen)  The story of the epic (and
ultimately tragic) race to the South Pole between rival explorers Robert
Falcon Scott and Raold Amundsen, as seen on MASTERPIECE THEATRE. $129.98 seven
vol. set      6 1/2  hours Color <courtesy: www.uncommon-video.com>

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 04:31:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 02:35:49 +0000
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Elisabeth wrote:

> I've noticed more men looking at those who create more cleavage and/or
> can set a tankard down on top, though...so that's probably influenced
> some on that subject.

...and in a later post:

> It's 'cuz so many hetero guys are attracted to, ahem, exposed mammery flesh.
> Guys may not "respect" the woman who is so exposed, but many will sure be
> "attracted" to her. Ergo, the woman so undressed is "attractive", i.e., is
> one who attracts attention.

Yes, but not gentlemen. I've never understood this fascination with looking
like you have a bald midget under each arm. If I want a plate of cottage
cheese, I'll get it from the grocery store, thank you very much. ;-)

> Well, at Northern California, the thing has been to have live rats in one's
> bodice, poking there heads out of the cleavage. (Shrug) Rats are decent
> pets, but i wouldn't want to expose them to the extreme heat of combined
> weather and, errr, body heat, poor little things

One local weirdness at the RPFS (So Cal) is for people to wear fur
tails...poor jokes about 'getting a little tail' abound.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 05:07:01 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

An excellent option, that technique.  Only one note to add: when I was
at the V&A, the entry in the flyer said they weren't "actual" shepherds
& shepherdesses, they were nobles who went out to the country to pretend
to be rustics, for kicks.  Possibly similar to us moderns who pretend to
be from other times.

cv

> Digby, HMSO, c 1980.  There are two tapestries, "La Main Chaude" & "Rustic
> Sports", in which almost everyone in these tapestries are wearing odd
> swaths of light (white? - the pictures are B&W) coloured fabric which have
> metal rings sewn to them and various items are tied to the rings.  Things
> like: combs, scissors, rosaries, bundles & containers, knives, a recorder
> like instrument, and various other things which I can't readily identify.
> The text identifies most of the people as shepherds & shepherdessess.
> 
> There are no dates or locations for either of these tapestries but, I would
> guess 2nd half 15th century, possibly Flemish.  So for those who need to
> suspend things from their waist - a new approach.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:57:05 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: World war 2 jacket
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Somebody wanted one of these a while back, try cg@blunderbuss.demon.co.uk
if it isn't too late now

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 07:52:31 1999
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<If I remember the reviews correctly, the CD is not indexed well and that you
have to print out a whole page. >>

On the other hand, the National Geographic home page has an extensive
index, so you can look things up there and find the actual articles
elsewhere.


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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Good question, Dietmar--I've wondered that one myself.
Cheers--
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 09:56:04 1999
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Subject: H-COST: linen sources
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-Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>

Hi All!

I know, I know...I should have kept old posts, but didn't.

I have been commissioned to make a lot of curtains (20+ yds), and need
linen for the project. I was hoping to find an on-line source, for contact
and price and description lists.  Does anyone have a favourtie source of
light to medium weight off white/cream/light natural linen - favourite as
far as reliability, price, and quality.  Or a suggestion of a master web
list where I can find the info.

Please, post me privately, in case the main list doesn't want the info.

THANKS A LOT!!!

Marie
(mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu)

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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Perhaps, once you have all the responses, you could post a summary back
to the list?

--
"When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of
childishness and the desire to be very grown-up"  --C.S. Lewis
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-Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>

At 09:30 AM 8/24/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>I have the CD set of NG going back to day one. If I have time this weekend,
>I'll be happy to check it out and see if there is any useful info on the
>subject. Actually, I wouldn't mind doing a search for anyone (well, within
>reason) with this nifty tool, just let me know what you want looked up.
>
>

Hi, Kate.  That's a very nice offer, and I cannot resist taking you up on it!

What I am looking for is the issue(s) that actually dealt with the Scott
Expedition's final fate.  The news was announced to the world in February
1913, so the issues would almost certainly be after that.  Perhaps the March
or April 1913 issue?

I've checked the on-line index of NG, and it's so annoying!  They have a
number of articles about the effort to reach the South Pole, dating from
1901, 1903, and 1904.  But there's nothing at all after that until 1922.
Now I know that they wouldn't have let a major exploration/geography story
like that just never be mentioned at all.  It would be like writing a
history of last year and never mentioning Monica Lewinsky.  I suspect that
the online index is imperfect -- I've already caught them in one mistake.

So if you would check this for me, I would appreciate it. Once I know the
date, I can scout around in library microfiches, or go down to the NG
headquarters and look in their files.  I am going out of town this weekend,
but I should be able to access my email.

REgards,
Brenda


Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda

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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 8/24/99 1:17:24 PM Central Daylight Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< How does one acquire the CD set of NG for the past? That sounds like a 
neat 
 tool.  Is it readily available to the consumer?? >>


Best Buy sells them in my area, Illinois.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:55:17 -0400
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

>From the photos I've seen from three different exhibits, I believe there
are different versions of the dresses traveling around the world.  The
"dinner" dress I saw in the Paramount exhibit *did* have sequins -- very
tiny "dented" (I don't know the word for it, but they weren't flat)
sequins.  Someone told me that the dress in the tour I saw was not the
one worn in the film but one of the originals that was copied for the
film.  I am not too sure about that.  The overskirt is one piece in
back, pulled up to the lower left of the bodice and tacked down.  The
skirt front layers are sewn onto a bottom layer of netting, leaving the
tops of the diagonal layers free (almost like a ruffle, but not that
full).  The beading appeared to have been done on the layers before they
were sewn to the netting, since the beading stitches didn't hold the
layers down.  Then the entire overskirt front is pulled up to the bottom
left of the bodice and secured with a rhinestone clasp. (This is tough
to describe without illustrations!) The draping on this dress must have
been a nightmare.  Even after seeing good photos of the back of the
dress, I don't see clearly how it was done.  The back of the gown is
smooth, but only because part of the fabric was pulled up, as I
mentioned above.

As for the "jump" dress, I know there are several of them out there,
since J. Peterman sold one and there are still two on display in two
different parts of the world right now (Australia and Germany if not
also in other places).  I speculate that these were "trial" runs of the
gown used in the film.  Deborah Scott also did several versions of the
"swim" dress before she got the look she wanted (you can see the other
versions in the book _James Cameron's "Titanic"_).  The descriptions of
the jump dress from J. Peterman say that the original gown had 35,000
Austrian crystal beads that were painted silver inside to help reflect
lights and make them sparkle more on film.  The little "buttons" you
describe are of rhinestones and are on the front of the split layer of
the upper overskirt of that gown--one on each side of the split layer at
the knee--and there are four on the shoulders of the gown as well (two
on each shoulder). There is another overskirt beneath the split one, and
it has one row of "medallions" sewn onto it.  This layer comes down to
the next layer of "medallions" that are sewn onto the red underskirt.
The middle overskirt has beads hanging from the bottom, and the red
skirt has beads at the hem. These are also the Austrian crystal beads.
The J. Peterman illustration is quite accurate in its depiction of these
layers and trims.  I don't know about there being zero sequins.  It sure
looks like there are some, but it may just be the shiny-ness of the
crystal beads.

Hope this is helpful!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 12:19:34 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Having had such an overwhelming response to the review of the Simplicity
Elizabethan pattern that I posted, I've decided to put together a workshop
on the subject.  I'd like to teach it at Costume College.  Does anyone know
who I contact?

Margo Anderson
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 12:47:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:59:01 -0800
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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Having had such an overwhelming response to the review of the Simplicity
>Elizabethan pattern that I posted, I've decided to put together a workshop
>on the subject.  I'd like to teach it at Costume College.  Does anyone know
>who I contact?
>
>Margo Anderson
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>

Margo, what a great idea!  That sounds as if it will be a really helpful
class.

I don't know how much help this will be: Jess Miller was dean last year and
would be able to forward info/this idea to the right person.  I have all
that info, like everyone else, at home and can't get to it until this
evening.  If you haven't gotten a decent response by tomorrow morning when
I get to this computer, I'll send the info out.

I was there - I wish we had met.  Hey, maybe we did and just didn't know it!

LynnD
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I was there - I wish we had met.  Hey, maybe we did and just didn't know it!
>
>LynnD

No, I've haven't been to Costume College.  It's been impossible to get away
for the last 6 years...but now my youngest is weaned, it should be easier,
and I'm looking forward to it.

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tavern Wench garb
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:58:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Ah, Dietmar, such a talent for the right "turn of phrase".... hee hee.

    The point missed in all the examples of "women exposing bosom", I
think, is that all these examples are of nice round "just got 'em from the
Bosom
Store" breasts.  A very uncomfrotable place to get a sunburn, but generally
not
objectionable in appearance.  This "youthful" look seems to have been the
point of
most corsetry through the ages.
     The major objection seems to be to the "two empty bags flapping in the
breeze"
 look - NOT very attractive in any context.  I think the Moral of the Story
is, when
Gravity has become your Enemy, put 'em away....

 Liadain   

> Greetings,
like you have a bald midget under each arm. If I want a plate of cottage
> cheese, I'll get it from the grocery store, thank you very much. ;-)

> One local weirdness at the RPFS (So Cal) is for people to wear fur
> tails...poor jokes about 'getting a little tail' abound.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Dietmar
> 
> 
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 15:19:56 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Winter and Savoy
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Actually, I don't know if this book is available in stores. I have only seen 
it at SCA events, and I've seen ads for mail order. It's a self-published 
kind of thing, though nicely done, with line drawings and typed text -- 
perfect bound, about an inch plus thick. It costs about $20 US, and it's a 
do-it-yourself kind of guide to Elizabethan dress. Nothing like Drea's web 
site :-), but I think it's a great introduction. I made my first Elizabethan 
stuff by following it, and I think I got the right general look -- although 
the shirt-as-partlet thingie does NOT work. I wouldn't have touched Janet 
Arnold with a 10-foot pole at the time. The Winter and Savoy book is a "you 
can do it" approach to the general look and feel, not a guide to authentic 
costuming. It's a good start!

Gail Finke

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Long hair mailing list?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A while back someone on the list mentioned a long hair mailing list.  Could
someone point me to it?

Margo
"Stop me before I cut my bangs again!"  



Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 14:59:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Long hair mailing list?
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I do not remember that one but I did talk to the guy that does the videos
and he has more, here is his info.

Jim Butchee (bu-shay)
214-668-6122

I will be putting his information on the web page as he is interested in
doing braiding at local fairs or events on sundays for any organization.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 25 Aug 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:58:17 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Long hair mailing list?
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> A while back someone on the list mentioned a long hair mailing list.  Could
> someone point me to it?
> 
> Margo
> "Stop me before I cut my bangs again!"  
> 
> 
> 
> Margo Anderson
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 15:07:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:21:52 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I believe you can purchase this book through www.greenduck.com  They are an SCA
merchant that sells from their website too.  Cynthia

> Actually, I don't know if this book is available in stores. I have only seen
> it at SCA events, and I've seen ads for mail order.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 15:22:52 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

It's at http://www.tlhs.org
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 15:49:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:00:42 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy is out of print, or
sporadically in print, or some combination of those.  I have searches out
for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8 from Other Times
Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian version also, and a
Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in the 1987 print of the
Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen either of them yet.
If someone finds a source, do share.  It's marginally correct, but that
would still constitute a drastic improvement in much SCA Elizabethan
costuming.  (You wince, Miz Blackdane, but you know it's true!)  I suspect,
or at least hope, that Ren Faire standards have generally gone beyond this
point since the book was originally published in 1979. 

Jennifer Scarce's book is indeed focused on the later and more Turkish
areas of M.E. costuming, but it does cover earlier periods and areas about
as well as anyone does.  You will find many additional pictures in other
sources (there's a book titled "Dress in the Arab World," I think, which is
highly regarded) but her written material is hard to beat.  Unfortunately
she didn't have an editor to take control of those interminable British
sentences.  It's heavy going.

Leslie






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 16:06:11 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:28:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>



--- Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> 
> Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn
> Savoy is out of print, or
> sporadically in print, or some combination of those.
>  I have searches out
> for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8
> from Other Times
> Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian
> version also, and a
> Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in
> the 1987 print of the
> Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen
> either of them yet.
> If someone finds a source, do share.

I saw several copies of the Elizabethan version at a
couple of different vendors at Pennsic. One of the
vendors also had the Victorian version, which I
purchased. I asked this vendor about the Medieval
version and he said that it is due to come out, but
not out yet. 


===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:26:34 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:00:42 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>:

>Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy is out of print, or
>sporadically in print, or some combination of those.  I have searches out
>for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8 from Other Times
>Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian version also, and a
>Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in the 1987 print of the
>Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen either of them yet.
>If someone finds a source, do share

Well, the Victorian book was primarily done for the Dickens Christmas
Faire, and I have a copy. This printing's cover is blue, although I
have no idea if subsequent/previous printings of this book have blue
covers. I've had two copies of the elizabethan book, and they had
different shades of brown covers. I call this the big brown renfaire
book. I don't think they will actually be doing the Medieval book.

I got all of them at Lacis in Berkeley. Both of the books (Vic and
Eliz.) are available from Lacis, or are at least in the online
catalog: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/catalog.htm

margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I saw several copies of the Elizabethan version at a
>couple of different vendors at Pennsic. One of the
>vendors also had the Victorian version, which I
>purchased. I asked this vendor about the Medieval
>version and he said that it is due to come out, but
>not out yet. 

They have been promising the Medieval version since at least 1985, when I
bought my copy of the Ren book.  I believe it's slated for publication
aproximately the same time Hell gets a bit frosty.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: New World Iceman
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!
Did anyone else catch the news that there has been another pre-historic
human found frozen in the ice? This time, he was found in the glacial runoff
in the northwestern tip of British Columbia. He apparently was wearing a
cloak made of several small varment skins, and a straw hat. Seems like most
of his hunting gear was nearby, as well.
Now, there's some historic documentation!
Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

...and how one finds out when/where the Costume College is?

For that matter, is there an annoucement mailing list for Kalamazoo?

--
"When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of
childishness and the desire to be very grown-up"  --C.S. Lewis
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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>...and how one finds out when/where the Costume College is?
>
>For that matter, is there an annoucement mailing list for Kalamazoo?
>
>--
>"When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of
>childishness and the desire to be very grown-up"  --C.S. Lewis


I can't help with Kalamazoo.

Costume College is put on in Los Angeles, CA (actually Van Nuys, near L.A.)
each summer.  Usually it's three days of classes.  Next year, it will be
five days long, ending on July 4th.  That's the bare-bones info.  I'm sure
someone from Los Angeles will be able to give more, detailed info.  It's
really fun and eye-opening.  I took classes on making hats this year, a
class on the House of Worth and a hands-on class making chain mail.  There
are tours available in L.A. related to clothing and costumes.

LynnD
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-Poster: Nancygwyn@aol.com

When and where (and all the other pertinent details) is Costume College?  
Inquiring minds want to know!

Nancy Stengel
aka Maddalena Salutati
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>>For that matter, is there an annoucement mailing list for Kalamazoo?

No, but there is the Kzoo homepage at
http://www.wmich.edu/medieval/congress/


The call for papers is up there now.

Susan

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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

> "Dress in the Arab World," I think, which is
> highly regarded)

You mean "Art of Arabian Dress"?  (was going for around $50 US, now
seems to have gone up.  May still be in print, or recently enough OOP
that you could find one.)  If that's the one, it's great, but I think
leans towards later that SCA period.

Heather
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

I'm still hoping that someone will come forward with some information on the 
Symposium  in Kalamazoo. Ever since I saw the comments of the members of this 
list that went last May----I've been fascinated!

As to Costumne College 2000---contact 
Darla Krueger, c/o Costumner's Guild West,
PO Box 94538
Pasadena, Ca. 91100
or call Darla at 626-449-0665
or e-mail her at DevineDWK@aol.com

Now, if someone will only share info on Kalamzoo with me--I'll be a happy 
camper!
Cheers
Albra



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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Costume College
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>Now, if someone will only share info on Kalamzoo with me--I'll be a happy
>camper!


I posted the URL for the Conference homepage in an earlier post. The Call
for Papers is up, and from that you can get an idea of the very broad scope
of the conference (usually around 1200 papers on all topics concerning the
Middle Ages). The textiles sessions are only a small part (usually 4-5
sessions, 2-3 papers each session, usually some of them involving recreation
of objects or technology) of that, but the papers have been of high quality
and there seem to be more of them each year.

If anyone has any specific Kzoo questions, feel free to e-mail me.  I've
been attending for nearly a decade, and can give you the rundown on what
it's like, etc.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 20:51:37 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Source for Winter & Savoy "Elizabethan Costuming"
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990825132736.036ea7e0@mail.canfield.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


You can buy copies from Poison Pen Press (http://www.poisonpenpress.com/).

Drea

On Wed, 25 Aug 1999, Leslie Helms wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> 
> Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy is out of print, or
> sporadically in print, or some combination of those.  I have searches out
> for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8 from Other Times
> Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian version also, and a
> Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in the 1987 print of the
> Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen either of them yet.
> If someone finds a source, do share.  It's marginally correct, but that
> would still constitute a drastic improvement in much SCA Elizabethan
> costuming.  (You wince, Miz Blackdane, but you know it's true!)  I suspect,
> or at least hope, that Ren Faire standards have generally gone beyond this
> point since the book was originally published in 1979. 
> 
> Jennifer Scarce's book is indeed focused on the later and more Turkish
> areas of M.E. costuming, but it does cover earlier periods and areas about
> as well as anyone does.  You will find many additional pictures in other
> sources (there's a book titled "Dress in the Arab World," I think, which is
> highly regarded) but her written material is hard to beat.  Unfortunately
> she didn't have an editor to take control of those interminable British
> sentences.  It's heavy going.
> 
> Leslie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 22:20:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Kalamazoo (was: Costume College)
In-Reply-To: <014d01beef5e$8ba408a0$baa11f18@dsc.columbus.rr.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 25 Aug 1999, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> If anyone has any specific Kzoo questions, feel free to e-mail me.  I've
> been attending for nearly a decade, and can give you the rundown on what
> it's like, etc.

Me, too. I'm always happy to help costume researchers find their way
around and hook up with like-minded folk. 

I was planning to post an update on my own group's year 2000 sessions
after I got my own Call for Papers in the mail, but the paper copies are
dreadfully late this year. They told me on July 30 that the mailings were
going out "early next week" -- apparently not. That'll certainly make it
tough for people to meet their September deadlines for paper proposals! 
(And the paper copies will contain an egregious error in the title of my
sessions -- they skipped the part that says "Dress & Textiles," so if you
don't already know who we are, you'd have no clue, sigh. At least I got it
fixed on the website after I got the first misdirected email inquiry.) 

As to our plans: Gale Owen-Crocker and I, under the umbrella of DISTAFF (a
costume & textile discussion group) are sponsoring two sessions as usual.
As in past years, Gale's session is traditional academic-paper format, and
mine is more hands-on with visual aids. :-)  Our titles this year are
"Dress & Textiles I: Sources, Images, Artifacts" for Gale's session, and
"Dress & Textiles II: Making It" for mine. We've been working on putting
together our year 2000 speakers for several years, so we're pretty full up
already, but Gale may still have an open slot, I'm not sure. 

In general, though, we're always interested in inquiries, even if we're
full for the upcoming year, because we think about themes for future
sessions a couple of years out and plan accordingly. Also, if you think
you'd like to present at a Kalamazoo some year, it's worth going one year
first just as an attendee to get the lay of the land. 

The DISTAFF sessions focus on research about actual dress and textiles of
the medieval period. This is "firmer" work than most of the K'zoo
sessions, and puts us closer in the camp with the archaeology groups. 
There are, I think, two other dress-oriented sessions in the program this
year, but both of them focus on lit-crit and art-symbolism angles, and not
so much on the actual clothing/textiles of the time. Still worth going to,
but costumers should not expect to get as much practical information from
them. I'd have to look over the Call for Papers again to be sure of the
titles.

There are also usually a few stray dress/textile related papers scattered
around in some of the other sessions, so you need to read your program
book thoroughly or you'll miss them. I spend much of my time at the art
sessions covering my periods of interest, just so I can see the pretty
slides and maybe pick up a few tidbits of background. I spend the rest of
my time blowing my year's discretionary budget in the book rooms.

And DISTAFF hosts a reception at the conference to give the costume people
a chance to schmooze.

--Robin, still digging out from a cross-country house move; please note my
new email address




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Aug 25 23:18:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 23:27:38 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nipples & breast showing
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>>>  'I am not so
>>> much against the tavern wench look (although of course, there is so
>>> much out there that is accurate and sexy) it is the fact that no self
>>> respecting woman of any class in history until the 20th century would
>>> have let her bosom hang out like that.  Never.  <snip>

I have a book of French fashion plates  (whose exact
name I forget just now and I'm supposed to be going
to bed)  which has a few plates with exposed nipples.
Not a whole lot,  but a few.     And I have wondered
how many *real* people wore fashions like that.
Or is it like today's haute coutoure ... which
doesn't make it onto very many ordinary bodies
(or pocketbooks).

Deb

Deb Baddorf    http://www.inil.com/users/baddorf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 04:00:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:56:33 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Rolled hems...??
In-reply-to: <199908260020.SAA22053@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hello all,

I know instructions for doing smallrolled-hems on very fine fabrics 
have been posted before but I (foolishly) didn't keep them and now 
that I need to do some, I can't remember the techniques that were 
recommended...

The fabric is very sheer (and frays if you *look* at it) gold coloured 
organza that is being used for the under-sleeve/puffs in Simpliclty 
Renaissance Wedding dress I'm making.  The fabric was narrow 
enough that I could use the selvedge-edges forthe leeve seams and 
not have to finish them further, but I want to get the wrist ends 
hemmed and the drawstring casings sewn before I set the sleeves 
into the bodice.

Thanks in advance.  Any advise is greatly appreciated


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 09:08:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Kalamazoo (was: Costume College)
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Thanks Robin, for providing a little more description of the Conference.And 
you answered one of my primary questions--which was if I could go as just an 
attendee --just to get the 'lay of the land.' I think I'll look into that. 
Thank you , too, Susan--our posts must have crossed each other in virtual 
mail-land:)
Cheers 
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 09:23:49 1999
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From: kang77@airmail.net
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
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-Poster: kang77@airmail.net


Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> 
> Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy is out of print, or
> sporadically in print, or some combination of those.  I have searches out
> for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8 from Other Times
> Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian version also, and a
> Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in the 1987 print of the
> Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen either of them yet.
> If someone finds a source, do share.

Hi there -- saw your post on H-cost and thought I'd let you know that I
found my copy of Winter and Savoy's Victorian Costuming at lacis.com
about a year ago.  It's a lot smaller than Elizabethan Costuming (I'd
say less than half an inch).  Its cover states Volume I:  1840 - 1865; I
have yet to see a volume II or the aforementioned Medieval version.  It
has a lot  more typographical errors in it than Elizabethan Costuming
(which drives me nuts -- one day I'm going to wig out and correct them
all with a red pen! :)), and the drawings are a little more rough?
primitive? not as well done as the illustrations in Elizabethan
Costuming.  It's basically for people like me who know nothing about
Victorian Costuming and need a place to get started, very much the way
Elizabethan Costuming is.  The ISBN is 0-9630220-1-6, cover price
$10.00.  Prolly more information than you wanted to know, eh? *g*

Take care,
Frost




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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 11:00:10 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Winter and Savoy Victorian
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



After I bought the Elizabethan one, I ordered the Victorian one site-unseen 
for a project I had at the time. I did not find it to be anywhere near the 
standards of the Elizabethan one, if that tells you anything . . . even then 
(about 10 years ago) there was a lot better information available to the 
average (or below average!) sewer. I donated it to my library used book sale 
the same year I got it.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 09:58:48 1999
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>


Hi all -

Since my favorite fabric merchant wasn't at Pennsic, I'm now looking
for a source of very cheap 100% cotton in solid basic colors like
white, red, green, yellow, blue, etc.  I'm used to paying $1-2/yd, but
that may not be possible.  Any help you can give me would be greatly
appreciated!

						..eliz

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 10:47:24 1999
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From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT - black dye
To: list SCA-Arts <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>,
        list SCA-Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Costume Historic <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

I have a new pair of black knit pants and a new black
t-shirt that both got bleach spots on them.  I tried
Rit dye (I really knew that wouldn't work) and an
opaque dye used for tie-dye (in desperation I even
tried black hair dye--have you ever gotten hair dye on
clothes accidentally?).  The spots are still there! 
Any suggestions?  Thank you.

===
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
MKA Kristen Morgaine Sieber
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 11:14:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kalamazoo (was: Costume College)
In-Reply-To: <9d2fa374.24f6a5f1@aol.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 26 Aug 1999 AlbraKat@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks Robin, for providing a little more description of the Conference.And 
> you answered one of my primary questions--which was if I could go as just an 
> attendee --just to get the 'lay of the land.' I think I'll look into that. 

I would suggest that you get your address to the Congress office ASAP, so
you are sure to be on the mailing list for the registration packet. It
goes out in February or March. I believe you can email the Congress
through the webpage to get on the mailing list. The conference booklets
that come in that packet are prize property -- you only get mailed one,
and if you lose yours, you have to pay (I think $10) to get another. It's
half an inch thick and contains the entire conference schedule, so that's
understandable. At least you'll be able to look over the 1,200 or so paper
titles before you decide whether you want to go!

Be forewarned that the conference is EXPENSIVE -- about $100 for
registation, but with substantial discounts for students (if you can show
a current student ID). Housing, though, is cheap, if you stay in the
dorms. Definitely low-frills -- most of us know what dorm rooms are like,
right? At least there's a bathroom for every two rooms, and you can
request a single or a double (you must name your roommate -- they no
longer match up strangers).  If you don't like dorm housing, there are
various guest houses and hotels off-campus. But the dorms put you right on
campus in the thick of things.  There are three large dorms; the
lobbies/common areas in each are turned over to conference goings-on,
including the main conference registration desk, reception rooms, the
cafeteria (you may buy meal tickets in advance for any meal or meals of
your choice -- I usually just eat out and keep snacks in my room); and
(huzzah) the book rooms. Some of the sessions are also in the dorm
buildings, but most now are in three or four other buildings that are a
short (10-minute) walk away. Be prepared to do a LOT of walking; even the
three dorms are separated by hills and steep stairs. If you are
handicapped or need to take it easy, tell them so when you register, and
they'll give you one of the more convenient rooms. (Given the number of 
elderly professors using canes, this is important.) You can also buy a
parking pass for about $10 that gives you use of the dorm lots and the
lots that serve the other buildings used for sessions -- I am lazy and
always bring my car :-)

A word to the wise: This is very definitely a professional academic
conference. While many academics welcome interest from "outsiders," it's
an unfortunate fact that some of them have had bad experiences with
members of re-enactment groups. And some of them are simply interested in
using their limited conference time to make connections with other
academics, so they will give less attention to people they perceive as
spectators. So if you want to get the most benefit from your interactions
with people there, it's usually wise to keep any affiliations that might
be perceived as "hobbyist" to yourself when among strangers or in a
classroom context. The best way to interact with serious students and
scholars is to present yourself as a serious student/scholar. No one
expects you to Know Everything, but they do expect you to play by the
accepted standards of academic conferences. That means mundane names and
appropriate dress. Garb is NOT appropriate (unless you're performing). 

I'm not speaking only of SCA people or re-enactors here; the same applies
to college students, local residents who attend for the educational
experience, etc. I've noticed that a certain number of students, for
instance, wear jeans and hang out with each other -- and that's fine if
they're there mostly for fun, and those are the connections they want to
make. Others dress up a bit more and make different connections. What you
choose to do should depend on what you want to get out of the conference.

It also helps to understand that although we as costumers are serious
researchers, our language and standards differ from the norms within
academe, where certain approaches to scholarship are considered mainstream
and others more "experimental." In other words, although we may understand
that making costumes or doing living history or re-enactment are
legitimate modes of research and highly educational experiences, we can't
expect others to recognize these as academic credentials by definition.

For my part, I'm quite aware that I'm working in a field that is not
considered a traditional academic field, and I do not have an academic
affiliation.  On the other hand, I do run a sponsoring organization and I
co-sponsor a track of sessions, so I need to be taken seriously, and the
conference is one of my few opportunities to make valuable connections
with scholars I won't run into through costuming circles. So, I have
worked to increase my credibility by dressing as a professor (suits or
skirts) rather than as a student (jeans).

It's amusing to discover that often it's the most well-established
scholars who are most open to interacting with "outsiders"  who have
something interesting or stimulating to ask or discuss. I think the people
who are newer or less secure in academia see the conference more as a
place to network and make important connections -- meaning people who can
help them get their next university post or get a paper published.  Those
people don't talk to me all that much, because as a non-affiliated
scholar, I'm not going to do them much good ;-)  But scholars who are
genuinely interested in things like costume as a means of dating art,
experimental archaeology as a research approach, textile studies as a
window on women's history, or dress symbolism as a tool for literary
criticism are, more and more, discovering that those of us in the costume
track have something to offer to the traditional academics. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 11:13:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:26:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Dawn Davidson <ladyzy@yahoo.com>

I can get 100% cotton broadcloth in lots of colors for around $1.80 a
yard at Wal-Mart. I've made many costume pieces out of it.

Lady Zy
LadyZy@yahoo.com

--- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> 
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> Since my favorite fabric merchant wasn't at Pennsic,
> I'm now looking
> for a source of very cheap 100% cotton in solid
> basic colors like
> white, red, green, yellow, blue, etc.  I'm used to
> paying $1-2/yd, but
> that may not be possible.  Any help you can give me
> would be greatly
> appreciated!
> 
> 						..eliz
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 11:46:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 11:58:07 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
> 
> I have a new pair of black knit pants and a new black
> t-shirt that both got bleach spots on them.  I tried
> Rit dye (I really knew that wouldn't work) and an
> opaque dye used for tie-dye (in desperation I even
> tried black hair dye--have you ever gotten hair dye on
> clothes accidentally?).  The spots are still there!
> Any suggestions?  Thank you.

I use a thick black Sharpie permanent marker.  Thus far, it's worked
well for me.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 11:46:35 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan bodices and skirts
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A few weeks ago I stated my firm opinion that 16th century upper class
bodices and overskirts always matched.

Well, guess what...on page 132 of QE'S Wardrobe,  there's a woodcut of a
venetian noblewoman, wearing a patterned bodice and a solid color overskirt,
which is hiked up to show an underskirt of the same pattern as the bodice.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Editors.Heritage Matters" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990826155949.20592.rocketmail@web103.yahoomail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT - black dye
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-Poster: "Editors.Heritage Matters" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 When all else fails, reach for a big felt tip pen;
My mother has used this method on carpets as well as clothes for year;
Dave
+++++
L.D.Mundy 
Editor.Heritage Matters
 
> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> I have a new pair of black knit pants and a new black
> t-shirt that both got bleach spots on them.  I tried
> Rit dye (I really knew that wouldn't work) and an
> opaque dye used for tie-dye (in desperation I even
> tried black hair dye--have you ever gotten hair dye on
> clothes accidentally?).  The spots are still there! 
> Any suggestions?  Thank you.
> 
> ===
> Morgaine of Glastonbury 
> MKA Kristen Morgaine Sieber
> Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
> Kingdom of An Tir
> lady_gawain@yahoo.com
> 
> What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm making a 16th century Flemish outfit, as described in Drea's excellent
article at http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html

As you'll see from reading it, the Flemish gown was often cut well below the
nipple line, with a very wide laced opening.  It was worn over a smock and a
low necked underdress called a kirtle.  

I made my mockup for the bodice last night and tried it out. I'm much larger
than the women commonly depicted in Flemish paintings, size 24-26, with a
bust that needs serious  support. I cut the neckline just to the bottom of
the nipple, or rather, where I hoped it would be once it was lifted and
supported.

 Drea concludes that these bodices were not always boned.  I was dubious
about the effectiveness of an unboned bodice, so I put a spiral bone on each
side of the lacing.  This turned out to be unecesary, and I removed them.  

Unlike an underbust  Ren bodice with a peasant blouse, this style looks
good.  What makes the difference is the kirtle layer over the breasts, which
not only keeps the nipples from showing, but, when pulled and arranged
smoothly, acts almost like a bra cup arangement, containing and stabilizing
the breasts while the lifts them.  It's still a low neck, an inch above the
nipples, but that  firm fabric makes all the difference. (Being a decent
woman, I'll be covering my bosom witha semisheer linen partlet.)

It may be that the "tits on a plate" bodice  derived from this style. If we
could just get women to wear kirtles under them, they could look good....but
I'm afraid that the "wench" look has become so stylized that most people
would think the correct look is wrong.  

It should be interesting to wear this rig to Ren Faire and hear the comments.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ae39f402.24f5e04e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Costume College
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:04:52 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

with you on that one !!
bella
----- Original Message -----
From: <Nancygwyn@aol.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 1:11 AM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Costume College


>
> -Poster: Nancygwyn@aol.com
>
> When and where (and all the other pertinent details) is Costume College?
> Inquiring minds want to know!
>
> Nancy Stengel
> aka Maddalena Salutati
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
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References: <19990826155949.20592.rocketmail@web103.yahoomail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT - black dye
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:04:29 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

have you tried balck permanent marker pen?
worked for me
bella
----- Original Message -----
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
To: list SCA-Arts <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>; list SCA-Garb
<SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>; Costume Historic <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 4:59 PM
Subject: H-COST: OT - black dye


>
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a new pair of black knit pants and a new black
> t-shirt that both got bleach spots on them.  I tried
> Rit dye (I really knew that wouldn't work) and an
> opaque dye used for tie-dye (in desperation I even
> tried black hair dye--have you ever gotten hair dye on
> clothes accidentally?).  The spots are still there!
> Any suggestions?  Thank you.
>
> ===
> Morgaine of Glastonbury
> MKA Kristen Morgaine Sieber
> Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
> Kingdom of An Tir
> lady_gawain@yahoo.com
>
> What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 12:40:15 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Occasionally, Hancock Fabrics will get in specials for around $2/yd, and the 
sportswear table sometimes has 100% cottons for around $3/yd (60" wide, 
though.)
Ann Wass
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Margo,

Thanks for the feedback on flemish dress!  You're the first other person
I've known whose made a Flemish outfit, and it's good to get more points
of view on the subject.

Margo, what pattern did you use for your kirtle?
I've tried three types of kirtle shapes, so far. The first was more of a
"petticoat bodies": a flat bodice with a skirt pleated to the waistline.
This was very close-fitting, and very supportive.  (I'm a DD, and need all
I can get!)  Plus the bulk of the linen pleated at the waistline helped
the skirts stand out.

The second was an "a-line" kirtle, similar in shape to the one depicted in
Arnold's Patterns of fashion, but close-fitted to the waist.  This was
also quite close-fitting and supportive, but ended up giving my bust more
of a rounded shape; perhaps because of the seams going down the front
sides. It was more comfortable around the waist area because of the
flared fit, but didn't add bulk to the back of the skirts like the first
kirtle.

I also tried a very simple "smock-shaped" kirtle, basically two rectangles
with gores at the sides.  I made it tight enough so that I had to wiggle
into it, but even so this didn't produce as much support in the bust area.

The close-fitted A-line kirtle and the "petticoat bodies" type of kirtle
are both documentable, to a point, but it's unknown which was worn under a
flemish gown.  Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts do mention "gathered
kirtles", which could be interpreted to mean kirtles with a close fitting
bodice and gathered skirt, and Arnold believes that some kirtles were
close-fitted to the waist and flared out from there.  And then there's
Alcega's pattern layouts of kirtles to study as well...

Regardless of the type of kirtle worn under the gown, they do provide a
lot of support.  In fact, if you wear a petticoat bodies under a kirtle as
well, you can get an almost corseted look (if you're large-busted) or be
flat as a board (if you're small-chested).

And Margo,  how did you do your lacing eyes?  I used the hooks and eyes
from Greenburg & Hammer with the flat-topped eyes, and sewed them to the
inside of the gown so that, when the gown's laced, you can't see them.

I also originally made the skirt of the gown with cartridge-pleats, but
recently discovered that I can exactly duplicate the look of the skirts
in the portraits, bulk, fullness and all, by using rolled pleats instead. 

Did you line your gown bodice & kirtle, or use one layer?

Once I've done some more fiddling around with the Flemish gown stuff, I'll
post something up on a web page with patterns & construction information.

Thanks,

Drea

 On Thu, 26 Aug 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> I'm making a 16th century Flemish outfit, as described in Drea's excellent
> article at http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html
> 
> As you'll see from reading it, the Flemish gown was often cut well below the
> nipple line, with a very wide laced opening.  It was worn over a smock and a
> low necked underdress called a kirtle.  
> 
> I made my mockup for the bodice last night and tried it out. I'm much larger
> than the women commonly depicted in Flemish paintings, size 24-26, with a
> bust that needs serious  support. I cut the neckline just to the bottom of
> the nipple, or rather, where I hoped it would be once it was lifted and
> supported.
> 
>  Drea concludes that these bodices were not always boned.  I was dubious
> about the effectiveness of an unboned bodice, so I put a spiral bone on each
> side of the lacing.  This turned out to be unecesary, and I removed them.  
> 
> Unlike an underbust  Ren bodice with a peasant blouse, this style looks
> good.  What makes the difference is the kirtle layer over the breasts, which
> not only keeps the nipples from showing, but, when pulled and arranged
> smoothly, acts almost like a bra cup arangement, containing and stabilizing
> the breasts while the lifts them.  It's still a low neck, an inch above the
> nipples, but that  firm fabric makes all the difference. (Being a decent
> woman, I'll be covering my bosom witha semisheer linen partlet.)
> 
> It may be that the "tits on a plate" bodice  derived from this style. If we
> could just get women to wear kirtles under them, they could look good....but
> I'm afraid that the "wench" look has become so stylized that most people
> would think the correct look is wrong.  
> 
> It should be interesting to wear this rig to Ren Faire and hear the comments.  
> 
> Margo Anderson
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 14:35:52 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 21:48:26 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990825132736.036ea7e0@mail.canfield.com>
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-Poster: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>

Hi,


I have recently bought three copies of the Elizabethan book from Harper House.
E-mail: harperhouse@lonago.com
website: www.lonago.com

The book is $15. It is a very nice book.

Nina in Sweden


At 14:00 1999-08-25 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
>
>Elizabethan Costuming by Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy is out of print, or
>sporadically in print, or some combination of those.  I have searches out
>for it but no hits so far.  ISBN is 0-9630220-0-8 from Other Times
>Publishing.  There is supposed to be a Victorian version also, and a
>Medieval version was promised as "coming soon" in the 1987 print of the
>Elizabethan book that I have borrowed.  Haven't seen either of them yet.
>If someone finds a source, do share.  It's marginally correct, but that
>would still constitute a drastic improvement in much SCA Elizabethan
>costuming.  (You wince, Miz Blackdane, but you know it's true!)  I suspect,
>or at least hope, that Ren Faire standards have generally gone beyond this
>point since the book was originally published in 1979. 
>
>Jennifer Scarce's book is indeed focused on the later and more Turkish
>areas of M.E. costuming, but it does cover earlier periods and areas about
>as well as anyone does.  You will find many additional pictures in other
>sources (there's a book titled "Dress in the Arab World," I think, which is
>highly regarded) but her written material is hard to beat.  Unfortunately
>she didn't have an editor to take control of those interminable British
>sentences.  It's heavy going.
>
>Leslie
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>


####################################
Nina Marcks v W
Sweden
e-mail:nina.marcks@swipnet.se
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 14:41:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 21:55:18 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter/Savoy Elizabethan & Middle Eastern
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-Poster: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>

Sorry wrong e-mail for Harper House.

The right one is harperhouse@longago.com and the website is at www.longago.com

Nina (who is very tired as it is quite late here)




At 21:48 1999-08-26 +0200, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>
>
>Hi,
>
>
>I have recently bought three copies of the Elizabethan book from Harper
House.
>E-mail: harperhouse@lonago.com
>website: www.lonago.com
>
>The book is $15. It is a very nice book.
>
>Nina in Sweden
>







_____________________________________________________
Nina Marcks v W
Höganäsgatan 1 B
S-753 30 Uppsala

tel +46-(0)18 - 10 12 86
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Margo, what pattern did you use for your kirtle?

None of the ones you describe! (although I probably should)  It's just a
simple A-line, roughly traced from a mundane jumper dress.  It's basically a
big bag with armholes and a scooped square neck.  I just pulled the excess
material to the back, and let the bodice hold it in place.  This one is a
mock-up, I haven't decided on a color for the real one yet.
>

>
>And Margo,  how did you do your lacing eyes? 

Well, this was a mock up, so I haven't put lacing eyes in yet.  I just
stitched a set of fitting strips, canvas strips with grommets set in them,
to the front edges.  I have some metal roman drapery rings that I'm going to
try using, but I'm not sure they'll be strong enough.  
>
>I also originally made the skirt of the gown with cartridge-pleats, but
>recently discovered that I can exactly duplicate the look of the skirts
>in the portraits, bulk, fullness and all, by using rolled pleats instead. 

I'm not familiar with the term "rolled pleats".  Could you describe?
>
>Did you line your gown bodice & kirtle, or use one layer?

I'm going to flat line the bodice with heavy cotton.  The skirt will be
bagged, lined with a lighter cotton. I wanted a lining because I love the
contrast when the skirt is pulled up.

I'm not sure yet if I want the cap sleeves on the gown or not.  

The colors are rust for the gown, with a sage green lining, and I'm thinking
of a medium or dark  blue for the kirtle.  White partlet, smock, hood, and
apron, and a pair of madder red sleeves.

Please do put instructions and patterns on the Web!  Maybe someday there
will be accurate peasants...or am I just dreaming?




Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 14:35:33 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> I can exactly duplicate the look of the skirts
> in the portraits, bulk, fullness and all, by using rolled pleats instead. 

Drea:
I've heard of knife, box, and cartridge . . . but haven't run across 
rolled pleats. Can you describe?

Thanks!




Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 16:37:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> I'm not familiar with the term "rolled pleats".  Could you describe?

You take a big pinch of fabric,fold it two to three times until you're
back to the original skirt fabric, and then  lay it flat.  Sort of like
so:


_________________
     __________  |
     |  _______| |
     | |_________|
     |______________________

(Hope that was OK Ascii art...it's kind of hard to explain.)  You can do
more folds if you want; the above is pretty much a minimum.  Then you
stitch the top & bottom edge of the pleats to the waistband, a la
cartridge pleats. When you do it with wool, it makes lovely tubular pleats
all the way down, especially if you cut the skirt with the warp going up &
down. With my flemish gown skirt (lined with linen), the pleats sort of
randomize around knee-length. It takes more fabric than any other kind of
pleating I know, but the result is worth it.

If I ever have time, I'm going to try setting rolled pleats with the
wooden clamp-like things shown in that woodcut of a renaissance German
tailor's studio; arrange the pleats at the top, middle and bottom of the
skirt so they're perfectly even, and then clamp the pleats flat with two
pieces of wood, or something similar, at the middle and bottom of the
skirt, and then hang it up. I'm willing to bet that if you do that with
damp wool, the rolled pleats would be even more regular.
> 
> The colors are rust for the gown, with a sage green lining, and I'm thinking
> of a medium or dark  blue for the kirtle.  White partlet, smock, hood, and
> apron, and a pair of madder red sleeves.

Rust, pink, blue & green! Sounds beautiful!  These flemish outfits are
some of the most colorful ones I've seen, especially for lower class.

I did my first gown in a heavy, camel-colored wool, with the skirt lined
in chocolate-brown linen and the bodice in natural-colored linen. The one
kirtle I wear under it is sea-green linen with bands of red linen around
the bottom of the skirt (I use a red lace for the gown with this one) and
a bright red kirtle (I use a white lace for the gown with this one.)  And
then there's the white shift & caul, and either a white linen partlet or a
black woolen partlet or both depending on the weather.  I also made
sleeves of dark green wool. Sometimes I wear both kirtles, and hitch up
the outer kirtle skirt as well as the gown skirt. It's pretty fetching
when it's all together!

Next weekend at the New Boston Faire I'm going to buy one of those
wide-brimmed, small-crowned 18th century straw hats that look just like
the ones 16th century Flemish marketwomen wear, and I'll be all set.

I'm almost done with a later 1570s flemish partlet--the one with the small
ruff sewn into the top edge of the neckband.  I'll let you know how that
goes.

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 15:39:02 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:37 PM 08/26/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>> 
>> I'm not familiar with the term "rolled pleats".  Could you describe?
>
>You take a big pinch of fabric,fold it two to three times until you're
>back to the original skirt fabric, and then  lay it flat. 

Aha!  Stacked pleats!

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 16:21:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 17:32:11 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: DzMzLzy@aol.com

Costume College will have a web site at both WWW.CostumeCollege.com and 
WWW.CostumeCollege.org within 30 days.  Until then information on it can be 
found on the International Costumers Guild site at WWW.Costume.org.     

Anyone interested in teaching classes can send info to me as I am in working 
on the technical programing.  We have five days of classes to fill, so please 
drop me a line!

Thanks
Liz Gerds
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 17:00:57 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kalamazoo (was: Costume College)
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:13:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

Robin said,
>I was planning to post an update on my own group's year 2000 sessions
>after I got my own Call for Papers in the mail, but the paper copies are
>dreadfully late this year. They told me on July 30 that the mailings were
>going out "early next week" -- apparently not. That'll certainly make it
>tough for people to meet their September deadlines for paper proposals! 


For what it's worth, my CFP showed up today.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 17:10:10 1999
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000301beeccd$0a6cb5e0$820bfdd0@sharp-9070-><000301beeccd$0a6cb5e0$820bfdd0@sharp-9070-> <3.0.1.32.19990824194420.00a137e0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Syke's Sutlering - help
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:20:14 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

> Can anyone please help me track down contact info for Syke's
Sutlering?
>
> Thanks,
> Danielle


I have the following info on file...

Syke's Sutlering
Justinian (Syke) of Rakovec
George R. Paczoct
Box 363
Elton, PA  15034
(814) 266-3803

Hopefully this hasn't changed!

Eve of Eoforwic

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 17:14:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 15:24:34 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval Period
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           This discussion comes up periodically in most SCA-oriented
lists.  Once again, the gauntlet has been thrown.  Does anyone here have
good documentation for kilts 500AD-1550AD ca.?
Thank you. -- Carol

>From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
>To: <sca-west@rogues.net>
>Subject: Re: [SCA-West]period garments and such
>Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 14:21:11 -0700
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300
>Reply-To: sca-west@rogues.net
>
>> > 1)  The complaining individuals are not aware that the kilts are far
>> > out of period.
>>
>> Completely possible. However, there are kilts that are known in period,
>> so it's also difficult unless you have explicitly studied this form of
>> garb to know the difference. You can't say the same about Cavalier garb.
>
>Actually, I'd love to see documentation for a kilt in period.  So far no one
>I have asked has been able to actually provide more than "So and so told me
>it was."  The best I found was mid 17th century.
>
>Dan
>
>----------------------------
>This is the SCA-West mailing list.  To unsubscribe, send email to
request-sca-west@rogues.net with 'unsubscribe' in the body.
> 
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 26 Aug 1999, aleed wrote:

> 
> Thanks for the feedback on flemish dress!  You're the first other person
> I've known whose made a Flemish outfit, and it's good to get more points
> of view on the subject.
> 
Not the only one! I made some bits and pieces earlier this year, and will
soon (hopefully) get around to making some more.
> Margo, what pattern did you use for your kirtle?
> I've tried three types of kirtle shapes, so far. The first was more of a
> "petticoat bodies": a flat bodice with a skirt pleated to the waistline.
> This was very close-fitting, and very supportive.  (I'm a DD, and need all
> I can get!)  Plus the bulk of the linen pleated at the waistline helped
> the skirts stand out.
This is the way I made my kirtle. I made it from faded blue-green linen
and lined the bodice with the same. I made the opening at the front, which
kind of jars a bit, as you can see it between the laces of the bodice,
which you don't seem to in the piccies, but I can put it on by myself.
> 
> 
> Regardless of the type of kirtle worn under the gown, they do provide a
> lot of support.  In fact, if you wear a petticoat bodies under a kirtle as
> well, you can get an almost corseted look (if you're large-busted) or be
> flat as a board (if you're small-chested).
Agreed. I don't get a whole lot of lift from my kirtle and bodice, but
it's very comfortable, and I don't move around much. I could probably
have fit them better, but then I've learned a lot about fitting one-piece
fronts since then.
> 
> And Margo,  how did you do your lacing eyes?  I used the hooks and eyes
> from Greenburg & Hammer with the flat-topped eyes, and sewed them to the
> inside of the gown so that, when the gown's laced, you can't see them.
I used ordinary hook-and-eye eyes, sewed about a centimetre in from the
bodice edge.
> 
I made a bodice and skirt rather than gown because I only had enough wool
for a bodice (wool is very dear here). The bodice is black wool lined with
black linen and the skirt is red linen. 
I'm currently working on making a jacket (I have some light brown wool and
rose linen to line it with), a pair of sleeves (some purple wool - probably
not a good colour choice but it was left over from something else, and
as I was saying about wool...) and two partlets (one of cream linen, the
other of black wool lined with white linen). Oh, and a cap of some kind
for which I also have some cream linen.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 19:14:55 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm auctioning a copy of "Masquerade And Carnival", published in 1900 by
Butterick, on Ebay.   This book is particularly enjoyable for those of you
who like seeing how historical costume can be colored by the era in which it
was produced.  

Check it out at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153400042   and help
me get my sewing machine fixed!

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Thanks, again robin for the 'tips' and advice.
Sincerely ,
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 22:35:18 1999
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 8/26/99 3:50:03 PM Central Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
 Aha!  Stacked pleats! >>

I just got a magazine and it has a neat dress in it but I can't tell how it 
is done.  It discribes the pleats as "carwash".  I have never heard that 
term.  Has anyone else?  How would you make them and what other name would 
they go by.
Thanks,
Kelly Albrecht
m311@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Aug 26 23:00:24 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I just got a magazine and it has a neat dress in it but I can't tell how it 
>is done.  It discribes the pleats as "carwash".  I have never heard that 
>term.  Has anyone else? 

All I can think of is that a few years ago, there was a fad for what were
called "carwash skirts", meaning, the skirt was split into narrow panels, or
wide fringe, depending on your point of view.  Like the hangy-down things in
a carwash.  Can't imagine what carwash pleats are, though.

Now you've got me curious. What magazine?

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 00:04:05 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Venetian lady, was Re: Elizabethan bodices and skirts
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:57 AM 8/26/99 -0700, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>A few weeks ago I stated my firm opinion that 16th century upper class
>bodices and overskirts always matched.
>
>Well, guess what...on page 132 of QE'S Wardrobe,  there's a woodcut of a
>venetian noblewoman, wearing a patterned bodice and a solid color overskirt,
>which is hiked up to show an underskirt of the same pattern as the bodice.  

But Venetians have always been contrary <g>. In the photocopy that I have,
it's hard to tell if the front of the bodice is a placket or not. Does the
fabric pattern seem to continue around the body?

Has anyone ever tried that wired veil?

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:57 AM 8/26/99 -0700, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>A few weeks ago I stated my firm opinion that 16th century upper class
>bodices and overskirts always matched.
>
>Well, guess what...on page 132 of QE'S Wardrobe,  there's a woodcut of a
>venetian noblewoman, wearing a patterned bodice and a solid color overskirt,
>which is hiked up to show an underskirt of the same pattern as the bodice.  

But Venetians have always been contrary <g>. In the photocopy that I have,
it's hard to tell if the front of the bodice is a placket or not. Does the
fabric pattern seem to continue around the body?

Has anyone ever tried that wired veil?

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the
  Medieval Period
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 03:24 PM 8/26/99 -0700, Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>           This discussion comes up periodically in most SCA-oriented
>lists.  Once again, the gauntlet has been thrown.  Does anyone here have
>good documentation for kilts 500AD-1550AD ca.?
>Thank you. -- Carol

The simple answer is "no, there is no documentation that I have ever been
able to find". McClintock and Dunbar are the two standard, reliable
references for Scottish highland clothing. If your references can be traced
to the 19th century, they are probably based on Sir Walter Scott's
romanticism, and are unreliable.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 05:03:54 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Frock Coat colours
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Does anyone know what colours of frock coats were propular in the 1870s ?
in England or was it a case of Black, black or black ?

Mel
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:55:55 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: US Costume event organizer question
In-reply-to: <199908261559.JAA06069@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi All,

Sorry for the bandwidth for anyone this doesn't concern

Any of you US based H-Costumers heard of a guy called Mark P 
Donnelly, in connection with (Costume?) convention organizing?

He's living in the UK now and is organizing an event called 
"Costume Con UK 2000".

None of us  involved in Cotume Guild UK or Masque (The British 
Costume Convention) have heard of him before, as far as I know.  
He's billing the event as the first in the UK (despoite knowing about 
the existing British Costume Convention), has decreed that *all* 
attendees *must* wear costume and is using a set of entry level 
criteria for Masquerades based on "professional/non-professional" 
status instead of the Novice/Journeyman/Master levels wer're nore 
used to on the grounds that if he used those ones everyone from 
the UK would have to enter as a Novice (thereby implying that no-
one over here has done any costuming at a high enough level to be 
worthy of notice, or has not participated in any event he regards as 
worthy of counting towards Jouneyman or Master status)

I can see this getting people's backs-up and was wondering if any 
of you could shed some light on him and his previous activities.  If 
anyone can help, please email me off-list at;

teddy1@mdx.ac.uk

Many thanks in advance


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 06:33:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:44:58 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Venetian lady, was Re: Elizabethan bodices and skirts
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 08/27/1999 1:16:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
joanj@quiknet.com writes:

<< it's hard to tell if the front of the bodice is a placket or not. >>

Now I'm confused. By "placket" do you mean "plastron"? "Stomacher?" A placket 
I always thought was an added on strip that overlapped/underlapped for 
buttons or hooks & eyes or the added underlap for lacing. Do you mean this? 
Have I missed a definition?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 06:52:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 05:05:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Frock Coat colours
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-Poster: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>


My apologies that I don't have specific documentation
at hand; but I believe there are some surviving examples in the
Smithsonian that are a dark brown. Wether this is due to the black dye
fading on the wool
or the original colour, I am not sure.

Lady Elspeth
--- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson
> <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> 
> Does anyone know what colours of frock coats were
> propular in the 1870s ?
> in England or was it a case of Black, black or black
> ?
> 
> Mel
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 07:01:39 1999
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-Poster: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>

The black magic marker (Sharpie or Rubadub) is a good suggestion.  It 
works for the stage all the time.  Some of them fade with subsequent 
washings/dry cleanings though.  What has worked permanently for us 
are two dyes.  The first is a direct dye (available from Aljo).  It 
is a black dye made specifically for cotton and the only dye that 
really gets cotton BLACK (not gray like rit) when you immerse yardage 
of fabric.  The other solution is Procion MX, a fibre reactive dye, 
made for cellulose fibres like cotton.  You can mix it with a 
thickening agent (sodium alginate) and urea (to keep the fibres 
moist) and paint it on.  You can set it in the dryer or with an iron 
and it is permanent through washings and cleanings.  Hope this helps.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 07:07:33 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume College
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 06:28:00 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

OK, Who, What, Where, When, is Costume College, please?

Kathlene

----------
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Costume College
> Date: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 11:31 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> Having had such an overwhelming response to the review of the Simplicity
> Elizabethan pattern that I posted, I've decided to put together a
workshop
> on the subject.  I'd like to teach it at Costume College.  Does anyone
know
> who I contact?
> 
> Margo Anderson
> Margo Anderson
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 09:19:38 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Hi Teddy,

Never heard of him.  Certainly has no tact, though.

I did a websearch for the exact name; a person by that name has a book
out: 

Siege (355.44) Mark P. Donnelly 

And a person by that name is the contact for "gothic weekends" in
Yorkshire in 1997 at

 http://www.dracula1.demon.co.uk/page4.htm


Good luck!

--
Today's beauty ideal, strictly enforced by the media, is a person with
the same level of body fat as a paper clip.  -- Dave Barry
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>



> This is the way I made my kirtle. I made it from faded blue-green linen
> and lined the bodice with the same. I made the opening at the front, which
> kind of jars a bit, as you can see it between the laces of the bodice,
> which you don't seem to in the piccies, but I can put it on by myself.

I laced my first petticoat on the side, under one arm; the other one I
laced up the back.  If I get a long enough lace, I can lace it loosely,
pull it over my head and pull the lacing tight without much work.

> Agreed. I don't get a whole lot of lift from my kirtle and bodice, but
> it's very comfortable, and I don't move around much. I could probably
> have fit them better, but then I've learned a lot about fitting one-piece
> fronts since then.

One thing I found helpful was wearing an elizabethan corset while fitting
the kirtle.  Then, when I wear it without a corset, it comes close to
creating the same silhouette.

Drea

> I'm currently working on making a jacket (I have some light brown wool and
> rose linen to line it with), a pair of sleeves (some purple wool - probably
> not a good colour choice but it was left over from something else, and
> as I was saying about wool...) and two partlets (one of cream linen, the
> other of black wool lined with white linen). Oh, and a cap of some kind
> for which I also have some cream linen.

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Eloise Beltz-Decker <eloise@RIPCO.COM> (by way of "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>)
Subject: H-COST: Serbian Garb 1300/1400's (fwd)
Cc: Kralj Mirlan <EX_PAT_WONDER@webtv.net>
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-Poster: Eloise Beltz-Decker <eloise@RIPCO.COM> (by way of "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>)


        I'm forwarding to this list, because I figure if anyone can help
this person, we can! Replies should be sent to them as well as to the
list, I would think. CC'ed to them so you can get the address more easily
than cut/paste from the body.

--
Eloise Beltz-Decker     eloise@ripco.com
http://pages.ripco.com:8080/~eloise/
        ICQ #46704590

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 25 AUG 1999 20:06:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kralj Mirlan <EX_PAT_WONDER@webtv.net>
Newgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Serbian Garb 1300/1400's

  doc'ek,

  Before you guys go nuts this is not a stealth post for polotics My
persona is a Serbian farmer/fighter from the 1300's 1400's. I am at a
loss for type of clothing and farm technolgy available in Serbia at the
time period I plan/wish to represent. Could you kind folk help me out?


  Hvala!



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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


Does anyone know if they tape some of the sessions for costume college, or
if anyone is taping them, I would be willing to pay to get copies of some of
the sessions (primarily SCA period related ones) ?

Brad Wilson
Carrollton, GA


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 08:53:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:08:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Aaaagh!  It's Celtic Renn!
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-Poster: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>


Anyone interested in very very early Irish/Welsh clothing should check
out "Everyday life of the Pagan Celts" by Anee Ross, Ph.D.

Elspeth
--- Frank A Thallas Jr <hardcorps@vcn.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> 
> 
>   Are we still talking Irish/Scots/Welsh/whoever
> clothing?
> 
> Liadain,
>   her Train of Thought Derailed....
> ----------
> >
> > What about prior to the 16th C?
> > 
> > Kat
> > 
> _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 09:20:41 1999
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From: CMBH71C@prodigy.com (MS SHELLEY V CORBIN)
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 10:33:32, -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: fwd:newborns in need
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-Poster: CMBH71C@prodigy.com (MS SHELLEY V CORBIN)

forwarded message below:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi all,
   I recently heard about Newborns in Need also. They have a web page 

(http://www.newbornsinneed.org), and they have chapters around the 
country. They seek donations of hand made gowns for premie babies as 
well 
as burial gowns for the babies that don't survive. For a small fee 
(it's 
really a contribution) they will send you a packet of patterns that 
includes sewn, smocked, knitted and crocheted items to make for 
premies 
and a beautiful little burial gown that has angel wings on it (I know,
 I 
probably have you all crying by now - it's hard not to when you think 
of 
such a sad event). They will also accept donations of fabric from 
those 
who do not sew. The premie outfits are donated to families who 
unexpectedly have to deal with a tiny infant and no clothing to fit 
such 
a small size. The burial gowns are used sometimes for parents to hold 

their deceased infant and have a picture taken with them before they 
have 
to let them go. Sounds like a very worthwhile organization to 
contribute 
to. 
                          Annick Phillips

-------
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 09:42:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 10:54:03 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Attifet or wired veil
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

Good People,

I've used the Winter and Savoy book to create an attifet--heart-shaped hat 
and veil that was popular with Mary Stuart and common during the 1570s.  I 
didn't like it, and put it away in hopes of making something better. That 
time has arrived. 

Does anyone have a pattern or instructions for making an attifet that are 
better than those I used originally? 

Yours gratefully,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 09:51:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:03:50 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Attifet or wired veil
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 8/27/99 9:55:55 AM Central Daylight Time, CONNECT@aol.com 
writes:

> Does anyone have a pattern or instructions for making an attifet that are 
>  better than those I used originally? 

I would also appreciate this information as this is the style of hat I would 
like to complete to go with my new gown. Would I be correct in wearing this 
style with 1590's Elizabethan?

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 09:55:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 09:55:30 -0500
From: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
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Subject: H-COST: McCall's P432 (Star Wars Episode I)
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-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>

I picked up this McCalls Star Wars pattern yesterday at the insistance
of my 5 year old daughter.  (Who incidently would make an adorable
Anakin Skywalker, but adamently refuses--she wants to be Queen Amadala,
of course)


There was a point in my life where I would have gladly sewn up a costume
straight from this pattern.  However, thanks to this LIST (big grin)
I'm on my way to Walmart to find some coloring books or paper dolls to
help me adapt the pattern to look more like the real costumes.

Thanks for giving me the courage/confidence to go altering patterns for
accuracy.

Megan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 09:58:15 1999
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From: "M. Gregory" <brand@sun-spot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:15:31 -0400
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-Poster: "M. Gregory" <brand@sun-spot.com>

Greetings,

This is a great time of year to check (of all places) Walmart.  I don't know
about the rest of the country, but in the Midwest, they're currently selling
out alot of their summerweight fabric.  We just found 100% cotton in a nice,
medium weight, linen style weave, several colors, at 1.50 a yard.  I noticed
that the local ones also have tables of 1 and 2 dollar a yard stuff right
now.  Alot of prints, (especially prarie cotton style)  but a few solids.

Brand Thorfinnsson

(M. Gregory)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 10:10:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 08:24:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: McCall's P432 (Star Wars Episode I)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Suggestion for you... the paper doll book... I know,
it sounds silly, but it has some pretty good
representations of the dresses from the movie.

Sarah


--- Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
> 
> I picked up this McCalls Star Wars pattern yesterday
> at the insistance
> of my 5 year old daughter.  (Who incidently would
> make an adorable
> Anakin Skywalker, but adamently refuses--she wants
> to be Queen Amadala,
> of course)
> 
> 
> There was a point in my life where I would have
> gladly sewn up a costume
> straight from this pattern.  However, thanks to this
> LIST (big grin)
> I'm on my way to Walmart to find some coloring books
> or paper dolls to
> help me adapt the pattern to look more like the real
> costumes.
> 
> Thanks for giving me the courage/confidence to go
> altering patterns for
> accuracy.
> 
> Megan
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 10:15:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 08:30:47 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I am absolutely drooling over all the descriptions of your lower class
clothing!!!  I know some of you (Drea?) have a website.  Any way we can see
pictures.  I'm dying to see these!

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 10:22:14 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:35:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
In-Reply-To: <37C6AF26.5820DE1A@serv.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


They are coming, and soon--I promise! In fact, I might be getting some up
in the next couple of weeks.  Until then, there's just the one upper-torso
pic on the Flemish Dress article.
(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html)

And I, too would love to see what others have made!

Drea


 > 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> I am absolutely drooling over all the descriptions of your lower class
> clothing!!!  I know some of you (Drea?) have a website.  Any way we can see
> pictures.  I'm dying to see these!
> 
> Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 11:18:23 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:32:48 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval
 Period
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>>
>           This discussion comes up periodically in most SCA-oriented
>lists.  Once again, the gauntlet has been thrown.  Does anyone here have
>good documentation for kilts 500AD-1550AD ca.?
>Thank you. -- Carol

There is NO "reliable" documentation (and sparse unreliable) for kilts
before the 1600s
(and MAYBE the 1580s).  Before that point, there are depictions of men in
Leines, or 
whatever the English were wearing.  There is the Rogart Shirt.  But this
doesn't say that
people *didn't* wear kilts but most serious scholars that have addressed
the question say 
it suggests that they "probably" didn't.  There is no way to PROVE a
negative like "people 
didn't wear kilts", so we are left with a lot of speculuation, guesses, and
people wanting
to look like movies and their fantasies of what medieval Scots looked like
- which is thier
option.

Marc
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:30 AM 08/27/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>I am absolutely drooling over all the descriptions of your lower class
>clothing!!!  I know some of you (Drea?) have a website.  Any way we can see
>pictures.  I'm dying to see these!
>
>
Mine has to be done by September 20, and I'll get pictures on my site soon
after.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 11:27:32 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Pleats
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 8/26/99 11:13:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Now you've got me curious. What magazine? >>

It is the Fall 1999 Countdown 2000 catalog of Lew Magram.  Page 19 outfit H, 
the red skirt suit.

Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 13:14:19 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: venetians and french ladies
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<>Well, guess what...on page 132 of QE'S Wardrobe,  there's a woodcut of a
>venetian noblewoman, wearing a patterned bodice and a solid color overskirt,
>which is hiked up to show an underskirt of the same pattern as the bodice.

But Venetians have always been contrary <g>. >>

On page 116 of the same book, there's "Unmarried French noblewoman" wearing
a bodice with diagonal stripes, and a unstriped petticoat over a
damask-stype petticoat.

In the one on page 132, the bodice is one piece, probably with curved seams
behind the armscyce, and fastened at CB. There is an attached plain
petticoat, but the bodice appears to match (or is very similar to) the
underpetticoat, which is visible only because she's lifting the gown. There
is also an extra layer (notice the tight pleating and weights) that comes
from the enormous wired veil. She's holding that in her hands as well as
the petticoat of the gown.

Deborah


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Attifet or wired veil
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I've used the Winter and Savoy book to create an attifet--heart-shaped hat 
>and veil that was popular with Mary Stuart and common during the 1570s.  I 
>didn't like it, and put it away in hopes of making something better. That 
>time has arrived. 
>
Me too.  The Winters and Savoy pattern doesn't work for me.  I've been
working on a mock-up of the crescent shaped attifet brim attached to a caul
(circle gathered onto a band).  the problem I've encountered is that the
brim needs to be very stiff. If you just use fabric and put wire in the
edge, it folds back on itself, so  the entire brim needs to be stiffened.
Since most of these capps seem to be at least semisheer, interfacing them
doesn't work, and a strong starch solution needs to be used.

I've been wondering, though, if I'm on the wrong track. I've read references
to "wired veils"   Could it be that the wired edge is simply one end of a
veil pinned on *top* of a caul?  Has anyone tried it that way?

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 13:19:29 1999
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-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>

I did quite a bit of research on frock coats 2 years ago when we had one made

for my husband. The only colours I found were black and charcoal grey (which
is almost black).

Sally Norton
snorton@us.oracle.com

Melanie Wilson wrote:

> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
> Does anyone know what colours of frock coats were propular in the 1870s ?
> in England or was it a case of Black, black or black ?
>
> Mel
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 13:30:40 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: National Geographic
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:49:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



I saw this encyclopedia type multi-disked program at Best Buy.  I am not
sure if it was a sale, clearance or regular price but it was $79 or $89
bucks.  If you are looking to buy this resource, you may want to shop around
a bit more.
  Michelle

>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>The NG at COSTCO is about $129.
>
>>I was really excited about the CD when it came out.  Then it was priced
>$199.



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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 13:25:05 -0600 (MDT)
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From: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval Period
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-Poster: Tammy Cox <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>


The earliest reference I can find in my Library is
a frenchman name Beaugue who visited Scotland in 1556
as a court chronicler. He wrote "They were no clothes except their
light coloured shirts and woolen coverings
of several colours. certaines couvertures legeres faites de laine de
plusieurs couleurs. Which are belted
at the waist and they go bare from knee to foot.


Elspeth
--- Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
> 
> <"Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>>
> >           This discussion comes up periodically in
> most SCA-oriented
> >lists.  Once again, the gauntlet has been thrown. 
> Does anyone here have
> >good documentation for kilts 500AD-1550AD ca.?
> >Thank you. -- Carol
> 
> There is NO "reliable" documentation (and sparse
> unreliable) for kilts
> before the 1600s
> (and MAYBE the 1580s).  Before that point, there are
> depictions of men in
> Leines, or 
> whatever the English were wearing.  There is the
> Rogart Shirt.  But this
> doesn't say that
> people *didn't* wear kilts but most serious scholars
> that have addressed
> the question say 
> it suggests that they "probably" didn't.  There is
> no way to PROVE a
> negative like "people 
> didn't wear kilts", so we are left with a lot of
> speculuation, guesses, and
> people wanting
> to look like movies and their fantasies of what
> medieval Scots looked like
> - which is thier
> option.
> 
> Marc
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

===
Lady Elspeth de Forbeys
Barony of the Steppes
motto:
Aurum peccamenes mutlifariam texi
__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 15:18:33 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 16:31:29 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Frock coat colour
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

To answer my own question :Anne Buck states Black, blue, brown or mulberry
with the greastest survivors being black or blue. After 1890s dark grey
came in too

I still wonder where the Scarlet hunting coats came in which are very
similar in design even now

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 15:18:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 16:31:31 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kilts  & Tartan in Medieval Period
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Might I suggest :

  You need the A Short History of Scottish dress by grange , it
specificallygoes out to prove  tartan history prior to 1745, the first ref
being c206

Mel
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 15:53:55 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Kilts  & Tartan in Medieval Period
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>Might I suggest :
>  You need the A Short History of Scottish dress by grange , it
>specificallygoes out to prove  tartan history prior to 1745, the first ref
>being c206

I'll be happy to do so, personally.  Does the existance of "tartan" = "kilt"?

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 16:32:02 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: McCalls Rev War Patterns
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 14:47:03 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I was browsing through the McCalls pattern book today and came across
patterns #2258 and #2253, Revolutionary War costume patterns.  They looked
fairly good.  Has anyone else with experience in this era seen these?  If
so, what do you think of them?


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 16:33:11 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT - black dye
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Do you have anymore information on this Aljo?  I did a search and all I came
up with was Aljo Travel Trailers :)

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 17:09:48 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: cut of coats
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I still wonder where the Scarlet hunting coats came in which are very
similar in design even now>>

If you mean for foxhunting, they were first made in the 18c. but the cut
wasn't fossilized until the early 20c. And even today, they're made in
different cuts -- for the field, and for very formal wear (cut as a
tailcoat.)


Deborah


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 14:08:11 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>> Regardless of the type of kirtle worn under the gown, they do provide a
>> lot of support.  In fact, if you wear a petticoat bodies under a kirtle
as
>> well, you can get an almost corseted look (if you're large-busted) or be
>> flat as a board (if you're small-chested).



I am a bit confused here.  Could you clarify?  Maybe a more detailed
description of how these garments are generally worn would help me...
  Thanks,
 Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Winter and Savoy
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



Hi all, 

I've heard this book referred to but never seen a copy.  Did Imiss 
the ISBN and other details (like title?) being posted or is it so well-
known that no-one bothered?

Would some kind soul pleas post the details (again)?


No problem!
Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580
Copyright 79,83 & 87 by Janet Winter and Carolyn Schultz Savoy
    ISBN  0-09630220-0-8

Other times productions
361  60th Str
Oakland, CA 94618

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 20:39:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Attifet Epiphany
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Oh man, I am SO excited that I just have to share a discovery I made this
evening with people who would be more enthused than "that's nice, dear."

I was thinking about the post on attifets that someone had made earlier
today, and about how it was such a shame that none existed to look at so
we could figure out how the dang things were made.  I started trying to
think of previous and post-attifet headwear that resembled the creature
that a person might work from.  After all, the wired Elizabethan flemish
hood was a descendent of the tudor starched flemish hood.

So, I thought, what other type of Elizabethan headwear comes to a point in
the front and curves back along the sides?  Bingo--a late period
Elizabethan coif.  When I got home from work I whipped one up and inserted
some heavy millinary wire along the front edge.  Once I'd shaped it and 
put my hair up poofy in the front, I put it on and gathered the back and
tied it. SHAZAM! A completely period looking 1590s attifet!!  

I did have to make one change--the original coif pattern I used gathered
at the crown, and that ended up looking kind of funky when the front was
wired.  I had to sew it into a curve to fit my head.

And the wire along the front edge, when stitched into place, made a
pronounced ridge; but I hid that by sewing some lace around the front.Like
you see on most every late elizabethan coif around.

And if you cut back the front top to a less pronounced point, you
get the wavier, less pointed style of attifet you see in many portraits.

Yippee!  I can't believe I never thought of this before!

If anyone doesn't know the kind of coif I'm talking about here, there's
pictures of it at
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coifpics.html

If anyone else tries this, I would love to hear feedback from them on how
it looks & fits.

Thanks and have a good evening,

Drea
(dancing a jig)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 19:33:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 20:47:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
In-Reply-To: <02cc01bef0e3$352f7e60$c628fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> 
> 
> I am a bit confused here.  Could you clarify?  Maybe a more detailed
> description of how these garments are generally worn would help me...
>   Thanks,
>  Michelle

By "kirtle", I'm talking about a close-fitting sleeveless gown fitted down
to the upper hip and flaring into a bell-like skirt from there.  I fitted
it over a corset, so that when I wear it without a corset it performs a
good deal of the same function.  Of course, kirtle is a very vague word in
the 16th century...the shape of mine is just one interpretation of it.

by "Petticoat bodies", I'm talking about a flat, unshaped bodice--again
sleeveless, and with a low, square neck--to the waist of which a petticoat
was sewn. Petticoat bodies are referenced in some wardrobe accounts,
though no pictures of them or material remains exist.  (There is a bodice
that Arnold has in her Patterns of Fashion book that she thinks may have
been a petticoat bodies, but that's about it).  It may be much the same
thing as the "gathered kirtle" in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe accounts...or
it may not. So the one I made was a combination of the petticoat bodies
bodice in Arnold, a petticoat skirt, and some informed speculation.

The bodice of a petticoat bodies is flat in front, which also helps
support the bosom.

Hope this helps,

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 20:26:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 18:23:17 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: fwd:newborns in need
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>   I recently heard about Newborns in Need also. They have a web page
>
>(http://www.newbornsinneed.org), and they have chapters around the
>country. They seek donations of hand made gowns for premie babies as
>well
>as burial gowns for the babies that don't survive. For a small fee
>(it's
>really a contribution) they will send you a packet of patterns that
>includes sewn, smocked, knitted and crocheted items to make

Though a bit off topic, the gowns could also be used for doll clothing too
and some look simple enough for basic period smocks if sized up a bit for a
newborn.

I do think I'll buy the patterns and make a few things to donate. I still
have the knitted cap and tiny crotchet receiving blanket that my oldest son
wore when he was in NICU (born 10 weeks premature at 2 lbs 11 oz). They are
so tiny and precious.  They didn't have any gowns so small though, so most
of the time when the put the newborn shirts on they were enormous and
awful.  It is a very hard time for parents when their babies are so sick
and no one ever expects to need clothing so small.  They really appreciate
that people take the time to make these things for the babies.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 20:27:07 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Venetian lady, was Re: Elizabethan bodices and
  skirts
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 07:44 AM 8/27/99 EDT, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 08/27/1999 1:16:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>joanj@quiknet.com writes:
>
><< it's hard to tell if the front of the bodice is a placket or not. >>
>
>Now I'm confused. By "placket" do you mean "plastron"? "Stomacher?" A placket 
>I always thought was an added on strip that overlapped/underlapped for 
>buttons or hooks & eyes or the added underlap for lacing. Do you mean this? 
>Have I missed a definition?

AlbertCat, thanks for clarifying my rather confused post from too late last
night. Yes, I did mean a plastron (at least "placket" starts with a "p" <g>)
or stomacher. I really should not post when I'm that tired.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 20:43:26 1999
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From: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: OT:newborns in need
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 21:56:31 -0400
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-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>

    I sent my order in for the patterns moments after reading the original 
message.  I've been looking for projects to start teaching my own "babies" 
(ages 10 and 8) to sew and knit, as well as opportunities for them to share 
their many blessings.  What a beautiful way to do both.  Many thanks for 
passing this link along. :-D

With warmth,
Kerrie

-----Original Message-----
From:	Julie Adams [SMTP:savaskan@sd.znet.com]
Sent:	Friday, August 27, 1999 10:23 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	Re: H-COST: OT: fwd:newborns in need


>   I recently heard about Newborns in Need also. They have a web page
>
>(http://www.newbornsinneed.org), and they have chapters around the
>country. They seek donations of hand made gowns for premie babies as
>well
>as burial gowns for the babies that don't survive. For a small fee
>(it's
>really a contribution) they will send you a packet of patterns that
>includes sewn, smocked, knitted and crocheted items to make




 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 20:58:42 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 21:12:35 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I can't remember the name but there is another place on the web which
provides items for preemies including patterns.  I found them *just*
after my daughter grew into regular newborn clothes.  Preemie clothing
can also be found at BabiesRUs now which is good...my daughter came home
from the hospital wearing the only one in town that I could find.  Caps
are especially important.  And if you are making things for parents of
preemies who survive, and you like to cross-stitch you might consider
making a little pillow/sign that says something like, "I know I'm very
cute and I'm sure you'd like to touch but I was born too early and they
don't let me out much!".  I always kept a sign on my daughter's car seat
carrier until she was old enough that the ped said we didn't need to
worry about others being around her anymore.  I just wish I'd had the
cloth slings back then (another item that you can get a pattern for from
Elizabeth Lee Designs) so that kangaroo care would have been easier. 
Something else I did for both my kids was to make receiving blankets out
of heavy flannel (the very soft doublesided stuff) with alternating
colored blanket stitched hems.  They were bigger than those things you
find in stores and *much* more convenient for me (and my six year old
still uses one of hers!).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 21:18:53 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Princess Di gown
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 22:29:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The Richmond Princess Di ball gown will be on the new TV show, "Treasures in
Your Home" at 7:00 PM Tuesday, on PAX cable television.  For those Cyber
Cinderella fans, we will be film LIVE from the mansion where the big gala
occurred.  So you will get to see another room of the house, the elevator
waiting room!  The room has a special stand for the mannequin and walls that
have floor-to-ceiling gilded mirrors.  Mrs. Minor will be discussing how we
care for the gown, and make efforts to preserve it.

The show contacted me via my website.  This is a group of really nice
people.   Mrs. Minor will also discuss how she uses the gown to promote
charity events.  These are the events that I follow the gown around and prep
it for exhibit.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 22:31:48 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: antarctica
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 23:38:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Thanks for *much* better accuracy!  I never saw the BBC
Masterpiece Theatre series on the Antarctic Expeditions ...
there's a documentary out there too--dogsleds and nordic
skis.  PBS (America's *Public Broadcasting System*) gets
some of its best stuff from the BBC.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dietmar
> Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 10:36 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: antarctica
>
>
>
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
> Greetings,
>
> Margo suggested:
>
> > Has anyone mentioned the National Geographic Society as
a
> source for research
> > on late 19th and 20th century explorers?  Copious photos
> and articles have
> > been printed in the magazine, in addition the Society
> sponsors expiditions
> > and could probably make records available.
>
> A better source might be the Royal Geographic Society.
Scott
> was a member and
> was heavily funded by them, I believe.
>
> Hope added:
>
> >> The responses have covered at least three entirely
> separate expeditions:
> >> Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton. Very different time
> frames, groups, and
> >> internal politics. Can't generalize from one to the
other.
> I think, but am
> >> not sure, that is was the Scott expediton that involved
> the nordic skis
> >> and dog sleds.
>
> Nope. the Scott expedition got in a lot of trouble because
he
> DIDN'T use dogs
> and sleds. He tried to be modern and use motor sledges,
but
> the extreme
> conditions in Antarctica prevented them from running. One
of
> them was lost
> almost immediately when it broke through the ice and sank.
He
> also tried to
> use Siberian ponies. Unfortunately, the man he sent to buy
> them new nothing
> about horses and bought old and sickly animals. Amundsen
used
> dogs and sleds,
> left later than Scott and beat him to the poll. Scott
reached
> the pool only to
> find that he was not the first and died trying to make it
to
> his supply cache.
>
> >> Those who raced to the pole all died. I thought it was
a
> mixed nationality
> >> group. In any event, most of my info on it came from a
> very detailed Public
> >> Television show a few years ago. Whether to travel
heavy
> or light was a
> >> matter of constant debate.
>
> Scott's expedition was all Brits. They had a lot of
trouble
> with supplies.
> Their horses died one by one on the way to the poll. In
the
> end they were on
> foot. I believe the PBS (BBC?) series was:
>
> THE LAST PLACE ON EARTH (Scott and Amundsen)  The story of
> the epic (and
> ultimately tragic) race to the South Pole between rival
> explorers Robert
> Falcon Scott and Raold Amundsen, as seen on MASTERPIECE
> THEATRE. $129.98 seven
> vol. set      6 1/2  hours Color <courtesy:
www.uncommon-video.com>
>
> Regards,
>
> Dietmar
>
>
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 23:08:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 21:19:26 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tartan/Kilt
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Marc asked:  Does the existance of "tartan" = "kilt"?

No, not in most of what I've seen. Unfortunately the terminology is flakey.
 If only we could get consensus, someone could do a Scottish FAQ; the world
needs one!  There's the word for blanket, the word for checked/plaid
blanket, the word for big checked/plaid blanket.... gah!  At its simplest,
tartan is the plaid fabric and kilt is the clothing item.  One does not
presuppose the other.  The plaid is generally thought to have come first,
but the Visigoths may have been wearing neatly pleated plain-fabric kilts
for all we can prove.  The kilt, primarily a wrapped garment, does not show
up well in archeological finds.

There is mention of a particular type of plaid early in the McLean family
records (late 16th century--I can look it up again if anyone cares) which
seems to correspond with what is now the Hunting McLean tartan.  Does
anyone know of other very early mentions of plaid designs or color
combinations?  Yes, I know the clan tartans came much later, but some of
them were based on tradition, and that's what I'm looking into.

Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Aug 27 23:33:11 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: antarctica
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 00:18:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

A pyjama jacket??? Was it sentiment, or thrift, or just a
bleary-eyed morning the day he left?

Hope H. Dunlap

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Brenda and Larry Clough
> Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 4:03 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: antarctica
>
>
>
> -Poster: Brenda and Larry Clough <clough@erols.com>
>
> At 02:48 PM 8/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
> >
> ><<The responses have covered at least three entirely
> separate expeditions.
> >Amundson, Scott, and Schackleton.  Very different time
> frames, groups, and
> >internal politics.  Can't generalize from one to the
other. >>
> >
> >Well, if there's no information available on the Scott
> expedition, I'd say
> >it would be better to generalize from other expeditions
in
> the same time
> >period than to make things up. In addition, the original
> question asked
> >about clothing terminology and vocabulary, which
certainly can be
> >generalized from one English expedition to another at the
> very least. In
> >many cases, the expeditions used the same suppliers.
> >
>
> In fact I went to the library this morning, and got out a
shallow but
> fascinating book, ANTARCTICA: Great Stories from the
Frozen Continent,
> published by Readers' Digest.  Among many other things, it
> has a discussion
> of sledging, what the old explorers used to eat, and yes!
a
> sidebar titled,
> "A Well-Dressed Explorer From the Heroic Age."  From this
I
> quote, with my
> own comments in brackets:
>
> "Furs were only worn on hands and feet.  Scott disapproved
of
> them for other
> garments... [the dickweed! sorry.]  The outer windproof
suit
> was made from
> thin, waterproofed gaberdine and consisted of a top,
trousers
> and leggings.
> The suit had to be easy to put on and to take off, and at
the
> same time
> completely impervious to blown snow... Hands were
protected by woollen
> halfmitts which extended from the knuckles almost to the
> elbows.  Over these
> were worn lined fur mitts.  In addition for outer work,
there
> were felt and
> woolen mitts.  These could be windproofed by simply
wetting
> them so taht
> they froze -- the ice formed an impenetrable covering.
>
> "A fleecy helmet [balaclava?] woven from camel hair
protected
> all but the
> wearer's face.  Officers and men...each wore a thick suit
of
> underclothing,
> one or two flannel shirts, a jersey, a pair of pilot cloth
> trousers, and a
> pyjama jacket.  Some wore a woollen scarf, while others
> relied on a collar
> to keep their necks warm.  [What on earth is pilot cloth?]
>
> Regards,
> Brenda
>
>
> Brenda W. Clough, author of HOW LIKE A GOD from Tor Books.
> http://www.sff.net/people/Brenda
>
>
____________________________________________________________
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 23:30:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


.  Of course, kirtle is a very vague word in
>the 16th century...the shape of mine is just one interpretation of it.


The kirtle I had heard of. An A-line gown with form fitted sleeves.   You
would need that under a sideless surcoat. (Or "gates of hell" dress, as I
have heard from the SCAdians.)
   It is the Petticoat part that through me.  Do you think that it is called
that to signify that it is worn underneath?  Like a petticoat vs and
underskirt.  You might let your underskirt show but never your petticoats.
(Unless, you happen to have a fancy trim or lace  and you want just the
bottom peaking...)
>
>by "Petticoat bodies", I'm talking about a flat, unshaped bodice--again
>sleeveless, and with a low, square neck--to the waist of which a petticoat
>was sewn.
  Similar to the Tudor bodice right?
   So what you are saying is that it is pretty much the equivalent of
wearing two bodices, instead of a corset and bodice?  You wouldn't wear a
corset, a petticoat bodice and a bodice on the outside, right?  2 or 2, not
3


>The bodice of a petticoat bodies is flat in front, which also helps
>support the bosom.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Drea
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tartan history
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:54:20 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Here is a short article based on a book by Blair Urquhart.  It discusses =
the history of the tartan, not necessarily kilts.  I thought it might =
interest some of you.

 http://www.house-of-tartan.scotland.net/story/

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Here is a short article based on a book by Blair=20
Urquhart.&nbsp; It discusses the history of the tartan, not necessarily=20
kilts.&nbsp; I thought it might interest some of you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"http://www.house-of-tartan.scotland.net/story/">http://www.house-=
of-tartan.scotland.net/story/</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:54:08 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kilts  & Tartan in Medieval Period
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I'll be happy to do so, personally.  Does the existance of "tartan" =
"kilt"?

No of course not, but it is an element of kilt, ie you don't get kilt
without tartan so tartan preceeds kilt my dear !

I don't have the book anymore as I sold it to somebody who specifically
wanted info on the early period. So I can't look up if it mentions kilt.
However on the rash assumption the original poster was looking for
acxcurate information on early highland/scottish dress I suggested the best
ref on that I know. Note EARLY, there are other very good refs for later
kilts etc.

Also the great kilt & the small kilt are two different things and may well
have originated from an earlier form, which may or may not be mentioned in
this book, I can't remember. Obviously something inspired somebody to wear
a blanket around their waist, they didn't all spontaneously do it for no
reason . THe tartan was worn as a mantle though earlier & this is roughly
the same size as the GK, so presumable it followed from there after all
Great kilts are hardy a great work of tailoring. And big bits of cloth are
used for many styles of clothing across many cultures eg Saris, peplos,
toga, tube dress etc.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 01:43:36 1999
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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:54:09 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval
  Period
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>to look like movies and their fantasies of what medieval Scots looked like
- - which is thier
option.

The thing to remember is being Scots dosen't mean being a highlander ie not
all Scots ARE highlanders, certainly Wallis wasn't neither were many of the
'heros' of Scotlands past.

Tartan fabric, but not tartan specific to a clan is recorded far back. The
wearing of large pieces of fabric is common in many cultures, which at the
end of the day is all a great kilt is, doubles nicely as a blanket. So on
the assumption that the tartan fabric came out as a large piece of fabric,
that was probably worn in some form ! Probably more cloak or mantle like . 
 Also you are looking at highlanders when you look for kilts really
remember. Then there is the movment of Scots & Irish mixed in there too.
but the saffron shirt is more significant here. and whilst NOT a kilt has
lower pleats where a kilt might be, thus possibily inspiring the pleats of
the kilt later on ?

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 01:57:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:54:07 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Foxhunting coats
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>If you mean for foxhunting,

What other type of hunting is there :0)

> they were first made in the 18c. but the cut
wasn't fossilized until the early 20c.

I came across a ref after I posted this that states that the short frock
coat was used for hunting, 19th C, earlier riding coats were of the morning
coat style ie a curved cut away. Which is from whence the morning coat
derived. I know of hunting scarlets that are late  19th C & still being
worn, they look very similar to the modern ones.

> And even today, they're made in
different cuts -- for the field, and for very formal wear (cut as a
tailcoat.)

of course, but I meant the ones seen on horseback

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 13:27:25 1999
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From: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 14:38:58 -0400
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-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>

Hi all!

Oh my, third post in less than a month after ages of lurking, this could
get addictive ;-) but this caught my eye....

>> "The Celtic Line." It's your basic fantasy Celtic stuff,
>>with a weird front-lacing bodice, but it was attractive and at least has
a
>>very full skirt. Keep your eye out for more of that look at Renfairs and
>>SCA events.

My entire family and I are very active at the PA RennFaire, last year we
went with run of the mill "wench" and tunic/tights but this year the
menfolk are quite insistent on displaying our Irish heritage in their
costumes.  Thank heavens the PA Faire is very relaxed because accommodating 
their requests won't make us very authentic. :-)

My husband and sons are set on wearing _kilts_ (No problems with showing a 
little leg with the males in THIS family! Hehe)  *sigh* Now, I know this is 
hardly authentic for an Irish family of the time, but their minds are
quite made up and hubby has purchased (alas, modern pleated) kilts for 
himself and the boys at one of the Faire merchants... I was at wits end as
to what to make for the Princess (8 y/o daughter. =)  and myself to
complement men in kilts, but the Simplicity Celtic pattern looks like it'll 
fit in well.

Now that you're all cringing, I thought I'd ask some advice from the
list....is there any hope of scrounging up a shred of period authenticity
with this garb or shall I just smile a lot and enjoy the fun? Do *try* to 
be kind.

Cheers!
Kerrie -- the bemused, befuddled and hopelessly hormonal Celtic mommy.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 13:48:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:38 PM 8/28/99 -0400, Vince & Kerrie Lyons wrote:
>
>-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
>Hi all!
>
>Oh my, third post in less than a month after ages of lurking, this could
>get addictive ;-) 
[snip]
>My husband and sons are set on wearing _kilts_ (No problems with showing a 
>little leg with the males in THIS family! Hehe)  *sigh* Now, I know this is 
>hardly authentic for an Irish family of the time, but their minds are
>quite made up and hubby has purchased (alas, modern pleated) kilts for 
>himself and the boys at one of the Faire merchants... I was at wits end as
>to what to make for the Princess (8 y/o daughter. =)  and myself to
>complement men in kilts, but the Simplicity Celtic pattern looks like it'll 
>fit in well.
>
>Now that you're all cringing, I thought I'd ask some advice from the
>list....is there any hope of scrounging up a shred of period authenticity
>with this garb or shall I just smile a lot and enjoy the fun? Do *try* to 
>be kind.
>
>Cheers!
>Kerrie -- the bemused, befuddled and hopelessly hormonal Celtic mommy.

Kerrie,

Just go and have fun! (the outfits aren't historical, but sound like they
should be a hit if you go Irish country dancing!) Not *everything* has to be
historically accurate <g>. Just think of it all as a big, outdoor, costume
party.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 16:48:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 19:29:07 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Attifet or wired veil
In-Reply-To: <199908271634.JAA25559@zeus.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

I made one of these long, long ago to do a Mary Queen of Scots look.
One of the sources I had was pictures of her effigy (and now I've seen a
replica of it in the Museum of Scotland).  What she is wearing there is
definitely something like a caul, a small tight bonnet on the back of
her head, with the shaped and wired piece gathered into it at the front.
This is approximately what I did.  You say the brim is crescent shaped -
I made mine gently heart shaped, (well, it curved in at the centre to
get the heart-shaped look) with wire through the edge and then lace.  I
didn't have any problems with the wire.  The brim was not made to stick
up vertically, but to lie forward over my puffs of hair. The combination
of hair shape and brim shape worked very well for me.  I used a blouse-
weight cotton and light millinery wire.

Hope this helps,

Jean

 
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>I've used the Winter and Savoy book to create an attifet--heart-shaped hat 
>>and veil that was popular with Mary Stuart and common during the 1570s.  I 
>>didn't like it, and put it away in hopes of making something better. That 
>>time has arrived. 
>>
>Me too.  The Winters and Savoy pattern doesn't work for me.  I've been
>working on a mock-up of the crescent shaped attifet brim attached to a caul
>(circle gathered onto a band).  the problem I've encountered is that the
>brim needs to be very stiff. If you just use fabric and put wire in the
>edge, it folds back on itself, so  the entire brim needs to be stiffened.
>Since most of these capps seem to be at least semisheer, interfacing them
>doesn't work, and a strong starch solution needs to be used.
>
>I've been wondering, though, if I'm on the wrong track. I've read references
>to "wired veils"   Could it be that the wired edge is simply one end of a
>veil pinned on *top* of a caul?  Has anyone tried it that way?
>
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Aug 28 21:54:35 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: premie clothing etc.  - O.T.
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 23:05:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Somehow I missed the original posting so I don't quite know what was =
needed. If anyone needs preemie patterns, or is looking for a community =
service project for their kids and/or themselves check out Care Wear. =
They provide sewing, knitting, and crochet patterns for preemies. They =
also act as a network for distribution of finished projects as well as =
any raw materials they receive as donations. If you are considering =
"cleaning" you sewing stash remember organizations like this - you only =
need a little yarn to make a preemie hat and donations are tax =
deductible. Care Wear was started, and is coordinated by Bonnie =
Hagerman, Executive Director for Academic Services at Hood College in =
Frederick, Maryland. (Pardon that shameless plug for my alma matter, but =
it is a wonderful institution and Mrs. Hagerman was one of my favorite =
professors.)

 http://www.hood.edu/carewear/


Beth

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Somehow I missed the original posting so I don't =
quite know=20
what was needed. If anyone needs preemie patterns, or is looking for a =
community=20
service project for their kids and/or themselves check out Care Wear. =
They=20
provide sewing, knitting, and crochet patterns for preemies. They also =
act as a=20
network for distribution of finished projects as well as any raw =
materials they=20
receive as donations. If you are considering "cleaning" you sewing stash =

remember organizations like this - you only need a little yarn to make a =
preemie=20
hat and donations are tax deductible. Care Wear was started, and is =
coordinated=20
by Bonnie Hagerman, Executive Director for Academic Services at Hood =
College in=20
Frederick, Maryland. (Pardon that shameless plug&nbsp;for my alma =
matter, but it=20
is a wonderful institution and Mrs. Hagerman was one of my favorite=20
professors.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"http://www.hood.edu/carewear/">http://www.hood.edu/carewear/</A><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 23:15:09 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan/Kilt
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
> 
> From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
> Marc asked:  Does the existance of "tartan" = "kilt"?
> 
> No, not in most of what I've seen. Unfortunately the terminology is 
>flakey...

Which is pretty much what I understood the case to be.  Checked cloth 
seems pretty well documented in the medieval finds at least.

> for all we can prove.  The kilt, primarily a wrapped garment, does not show
> up well in archeological finds.

What would you find?  A rather long piece of uncut fabric (say 6'+ x
25" or so) would be fairly obvious.  If nothing else that would be a
LOT of fabrics scraps.  But the fact that there haven't been a lot of
this sorts of finds (at least that I know of) doesn't mean that there
weren't any.  There's always the old standby of "that much material
would never be allowed to go to waste..."

> combinations?  Yes, I know the clan tartans came much later, but some of
> them were based on tradition, and that's what I'm looking into.

I'm afraid not.  A great number of them (starting with the various
Campbells) do appear to be derived from the old "government tartan"...
=========
> From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> No of course not, but it is an element of kilt, ie you don't get kilt
> without tartan so tartan preceeds kilt my dear !

I'll remember that when looking at Sumerian and Egyptian artwork...

> However on the rash assumption the original poster was looking for
> acxcurate information on early highland/scottish dress I suggested the best
> ref on that I know. Note EARLY, there are other very good refs for later
> kilts etc.

Oh, I know.  I wasn't slamming your suggested source - just pointing
out the fallacy in assuming that checky-cloth means kilts, which is
what I assumed the poster was asking about. 

> Also the great kilt & the small kilt are two different things and may well
> have originated from an earlier form, which may or may not be mentioned in
> this book, I can't remember. Obviously something inspired somebody to wear
> a blanket around their waist, they didn't all spontaneously do it for no
> reason . THe tartan was worn as a mantle though earlier & this is roughly
> the same size as the GK, so presumable it followed from there after all
> Great kilts are hardy a great work of tailoring. And big bits of cloth are
> used for many styles of clothing across many cultures eg Saris, peplos,
> toga, tube dress etc.

That's why it's impossible to prove they *weren't* worn.  The poster
was wanting (I thought) proof they WERE worn, which is different.

Marc
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 00:15:20 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I've spent the evening reading through the accounts of 

The Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: The Wardrobe Accounts of
Edward IV.  http://www.r3.org/bookcase/wardrobe/ward1.html

and found it really interesting.  The footnotes & glossary are very
useful, and frequently mention Strutt (as does Hunnisett in her books.)

My question is: do any of you know if he's been reprinted recently?  I
want to find a copy.  If not, time to trot down to my library and make
friends with the ILL person....

Full title:
A complete view of the dress and habits of the people of England: from
the establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the present time
(published around 1830.)

Thanks,
cv
--
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stop hissing in my ear!  -- St. Patrick driving the snakes out of
Ireland -- Mother Goose & Grimm/Mike Peters
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 00:08:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Joseph Strutt
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Sun, 29 Aug 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Full title:
> A complete view of the dress and habits of the people of England: from
> the establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the present time
> (published around 1830.)

Strutt's original costume book was published in 1796, and is of special
note because it was the first comprehensive history of English costume,
ever.  Strutt was an antiquarian, with prior books on the history of other
decorative arts, games, customs, etc. His costume book is surprisingly
good when you consider that he was breaking completely new ground. He
certainly was looking directly at his sources -- artwork, manuscripts,
written materials. Since books at this time did not have photos, he
re-drew images in great detail for the engravings, and did a fairly good
job, though his figures betray some of the aesthetics of his period. For
decades, other authors copied Strutt, down to re-drawing his images
without credit.  Alas, these other authors apparently did not have the
access to the original manuscripts etc., and their artwork (and their
interpretations) take the material a step or more further from the
original. When you compare later authors' redrawings to Strutt's, and then
to the original manuscripts, the differences are quite obvious and often
significant (e.g. placement of seams, layering of pieces, decoration). 
This is one reason Victorian costume references are so unreliable. (Can
you tell I've lectured on this?  It makes for an eye-opening slide show.)

I can't remember the last time I saw Strutt's original 1796 edition -- I
think in the Newberry Library in Chicago.  I don't know offhand about an
1830 edition. However, there's an 1842 edition in some libraries, and I've
seen it in open stacks at least once (which surprised me). Bear in mind,
however, that this is actually the revised edition of Strutt, edited by
James Robinson Planche.  Planche was a specialist in heraldry, pageantry
and costume for the theatrical community; he also advised Queen Victoria
(he designed many of the costumes for her Plantagenet ball, including hers
and Albert's). Planche's knowledge and understanding of medieval dress is
quintessentially Victorian, and his interpretations tend to betray his
own suppositions, knowledge of construction methods, aesthetics, etc.  --
though he may have been the best his period of scholarship had to offer.
If you read Strutt in this edition, be aware that many of the extensive
footnotes are Planche's. I'm not sure how many liberties Planche took with
Strutt's text, but I wouldn't trust him not to have tinkered. (He actually
called it the "new and improved edition.") 

Planche wrote several costume histories of his own, the chief one being
published around, hmm, 1834 I think, and revised in 1847 and 1881.  (I'm
going from incomplete notes, as most of my sources are still packed from
my recent move.) I've found the 1881 edition in open stacks in several
university libraries. 

When I'm trying to track down the origin of something I suspect is a
costume myth, I start with Strutt and Planche -- and then move forward and
back, as needed, to figure out who quoted whom, what their sources were,
and where the ideas got garbled along the way.

One thing Strutt and Planche are both very useful for is written quotes --
snatches of poems, plays, histories, etc. that mention costume. (Strutt
quotes Chaucer and Stubbes extensively, among others.) I know I haven't
had time to comb through the massive body of medieval literature for the
clothing references, but Strutt and certain people who followed him
obviously took a lot of time to collect quotes. Their interpretations of
the quoted material may be questionable, but the original cites are
invaluable. When I use these, I try to follow those citations back to the
originals, just to be sure of the context and translation. 

Somewhere (in a box) I have one of the Cunningtons' costume overviews -- a
thin book with a red dust jacket -- which I bought because it had a lot of
pictures of historic art. I remember looking at some of the drawings and
thinking, "hmmm, there's something odd about this one, the people don't
look quite right, and the art technique doesn't look medieval," but the
book claimed they were from "a 14th century manuscript"  (or whatever). 
Turns out the Cunningtons didn't reproduce the actual medieval images --
they reprinted some of Strutt's redrawings of them, and did not note that
they were doing so. I discovered this only after I had seen a copy of
Strutt and compared them. Now that I know Strutt's style, I can recognize
it when I run across it.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 06:30:19 1999
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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: canvas
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 07:38:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>

does anyone know of an inexpensive source for 10 oz cotton duct or similar
weight?
Andy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 07:43:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 08:56:55 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Wow -- lots of info; thanks, Robin!

Grainne sent me some citations -- the Planche version was reprinted in
1970 by Tabard Press of London.
 
> One thing Strutt and Planche are both very useful for is written quotes --
> snatches of poems, plays, histories, etc. that mention costume.

Ya, that's what I'm mostly after.  The documentation for hat
construction of 1400-1480 is so thin, I figured looking in text accounts
is the next logical step.

The wardrobe accounts I mentioned in my earlier post (1480 and 1502)
have lots of info on silks, velvets, other fine fabrics, furred
garments, chair-cushion fabric and whatnots, but only about three solid
entries on hats per se.  One mentions "hats of wool" for men, the two
mention "bonnets" from the "silkwoman" for the Queen and retainers, and
there are one or two mentions of "frontlets" which is glossed as part of
a headdress arrangement (forehead bands of velvets and gold), but no
details in the text.  The 1480 account mentions Ostrich feathers, which
I found interesting, but not what they were used for (male hat
decoration, I would guess, but could be horse-decoration.)

I still have many online sources to read through; I hope to find yet
earlier ones, but Strutt would help.  Off to the Library!


...Some interesting things, such as making the pages run all over town
to bring (presumably forgotten) clothing from the other residences:

Itm....the xxvij{ti} day of Novembre [1502] to Richard Justice page of
the robys for his costes going from Westminster to London in the nyght
for a gowne of blewe velvet for the Quene and for his bote hyere viij d.
Itm for conveyeng alle the Quenes lyned gownys from Westminster to
London by water and for mens labour that bare the same gownys to the
water and from the water v d. Itm for bringing the Quenes furred gownys
from London to Westminster and for mens labours that bare the same to
and from the water v d. Itm for his costes from Westminster to London to
take the remaynes of suche stuf as remaineth there iiij d. Itm for going
from Westminster to London for vij yerdes quarter di of blake damaske
and for a frontlet of golde for the Quene iiij d. and for maing a newe
key to the grete standard being in the warderobe of the robys and for
mending of boeth lokkes to the same vj d. Sm{a} ----------ij s. viij d. 

And lots of different velvets:

[1480] For crimson velvet of Mountpelier in Gascony at xiiij s. and xx
s. the yard; for black velvet; black velvet speckled with white; "blue
velvet figured with tawny;" white velvet; white velvet with black spots;
tawny velvet; "motley velvet;" "chekkerd velvet;" "grene chaungeable
velvet;" "velvet purpull ray [striped] and white;" "velvet russet
figury;" "velvet cremysyn figured with white;" at viij s. the yard. 

My notes from this site (copy & paste into word processor) are 30+
pages, it's so full of fabric & clothing info.

--
Quit shedding skin all over the back seat!  Ouch, don't bite me!  Hey,
stop hissing in my ear!  -- St. Patrick driving the snakes out of
Ireland -- Mother Goose & Grimm/Mike Peters
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

Someone who works in Wal-mart's fabric section told me that they would be
getting regular supplies of $1 and $2/yd fabrics from now on. Mostly
dreadful coy prints, at mine anyway, but CHEAP enough for making muslins
with abandon!

-Amanda
who only really feels happy using hideous and cheap fabric for muslins... <g>


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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: maybe OT--Christening gowns
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 09:47:46 -0500
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     Mornin', y'all.  I'm momentarily out of lurking mode and looking for
help, please.  I would appreciate any help I can get concerning the
following questions, including remote references: 

     Where and in what time period and/or location did putting babies in
the extremely long, ornate, white gowns for their Christenings begin?

     Perhaps OT but....which came first--the stories of fairy godmothers
(of which I've traced similar stories in all European, Scandanavian, and
Slavic countries as far as I know how) or the custom of children being
represented at their Christenings by a human godmother figure?  (What would
seem the logical answer  has become quite convoluted in my findings.)  Are
there any reliable sources discussing this topic *anywhere*?

     If I've overstepped the list's definitions of costuming, please
forgive and/or answer privately.  Thanks in advance.

Meg
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Joseph Strutt
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 16:26:38 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

----------
Hi all,

Cynthia wrote:
> ...Some interesting things, such as making the pages run all over town
> to bring (presumably forgotten) clothing from the other residences:
> 
> Itm....the xxvij{ti} day of Novembre [1502] to Richard Justice page of
> the robys for his costes going from Westminster to London in the nyght
> for a gowne of blewe velvet for the Quene and for his bote hyere viij d.
> Itm for conveyeng alle the Quenes lyned gownys from Westminster to
> London by water and for mens labour that bare the same gownys to the
> water and from the water v d. Itm for bringing the Quenes furred gownys
> from London to Westminster and for mens labours that bare the same to
> and from the water v d. Itm for his costes from Westminster to London to
> take the remaynes of suche stuf as remaineth there iiij d. Itm for going
> from Westminster to London for vij yerdes quarter di of blake damaske
> and for a frontlet of golde for the Quene iiij d. and for maing a newe
> key to the grete standard being in the warderobe of the robys and for
> mending of boeth lokkes to the same vj d. Sm{a} ----------ij s. viij d. 
> 
This does not seem the case; the running all over town, I mean, if the
above citation is what she referring to. The royal palace closest to London
(which had the Tower, but that was no real palace) was at Westminster, next
to the still existing Westminster Abbey. The large Hall (well worth
visiting!) of this palace in incorporated in the Houses of Parliament which
cover part of the area of the same palace. The Wardrobe, however, was
situated in the City of London, about halfway between the Tower and the
palace of Westminster. The Wardrobe was no costume-closet but a set of
buildings round a yard in which (among other things) the royal plate,
accessories and clothing were kept when they were not needed. Every spring
and autumn in a flurry of activity servants moved summer and winter clothes
from palace to wardrobe and vice versa. If you are in London you might do
worse than to visit, besides Westminster Hall, Wardrobe Place off Carter
Lane, just south of St Pauls. The little yard is very picturesque and
Carter Lane is a street, renewed after the 1666 fire, on the original
medieval plan, and gives an impression of late 17th c London (if you think
away modern high rises in the neighbourhood). Incidentally: the College of
Arms is just around the corner in a lovely 17th c building around a fore
court in Upper Thames Street. If you ask nicely, they let you visit the
hall. Well worth it.

Henk


> And lots of different velvets:
> 
> [1480] For crimson velvet of Mountpelier in Gascony at xiiij s. and xx
> s. the yard; for black velvet; black velvet speckled with white; "blue
> velvet figured with tawny;" white velvet; white velvet with black spots;
> tawny velvet; "motley velvet;" "chekkerd velvet;" "grene chaungeable
> velvet;" "velvet purpull ray [striped] and white;" "velvet russet
> figury;" "velvet cremysyn figured with white;" at viij s. the yard. 
> 
> My notes from this site (copy & paste into word processor) are 30+
> pages, it's so full of fabric & clothing info.
> 
> --
> Quit shedding skin all over the back seat!  Ouch, don't bite me!  Hey,
> stop hissing in my ear!  -- St. Patrick driving the snakes out of
> Ireland -- Mother Goose & Grimm/Mike Peters
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 10:51:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Wardrobe Place
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I was in London just this last February and much to my dismay, I found
that Wardrobe Place is in the middle of being redeveloped. The lovely and
picturesque courtyard which I found on my first few trips to London is
now being torn down and built up with what I expect will be nasty modern
buildings. You can't even really go into the courtyard because it is a
construction site and you need permission and safety gear. St.
Andrews-by-Wardrobe, a church just next door, had a photographic display
of some of the urban archeology which was done just as the 17th-18th
century buildings were being torn down and which show some of the remains
of the old Wardrobe which were found under them. All that is probably
covered up with modern excressences by now. The Old City is still worth a
look-see if you want a flavor of Old London. They haven't ruined
everything....yet........


Karen
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908291456.JAA28492@cdale3.midwest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: maybe OT--Christening gowns
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Hi Meg,

I have seen originals from the ACW period. 

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 

>      Where and in what time period and/or location did putting babies in
> the extremely long, ornate, white gowns for their Christenings begin?


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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 17:26:00 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
In-Reply-To: <01BEF163.143DBFC0.vjlyons@snip.net>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

>
>-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
>Hi all!
>
>Oh my, third post in less than a month after ages of lurking, this could
>get addictive ;-) but this caught my eye....
>
>>> "The Celtic Line." It's your basic fantasy Celtic stuff,
>>>with a weird front-lacing bodice, but it was attractive and at least has
>a
>>>very full skirt. Keep your eye out for more of that look at Renfairs and
>>>SCA events.
>
>My entire family and I are very active at the PA RennFaire, last year we
>went with run of the mill "wench" and tunic/tights but this year the
>menfolk are quite insistent on displaying our Irish heritage in their
>costumes.  Thank heavens the PA Faire is very relaxed because accommodating 
>their requests won't make us very authentic. :-)
>
>My husband and sons are set on wearing _kilts_ (No problems with showing a 
>little leg with the males in THIS family! Hehe)  *sigh* Now, I know this is 
>hardly authentic for an Irish family of the time, but their minds are
>quite made up and hubby has purchased (alas, modern pleated) kilts for 
>himself and the boys at one of the Faire merchants... I was at wits end as
>to what to make for the Princess (8 y/o daughter. =)  and myself to
>complement men in kilts, but the Simplicity Celtic pattern looks like it'll 
>fit in well.
>
>Now that you're all cringing, I thought I'd ask some advice from the
>list....is there any hope of scrounging up a shred of period authenticity
>with this garb or shall I just smile a lot and enjoy the fun? Do *try* to 
>be kind.
>
>Cheers!
>Kerrie -- the bemused, befuddled and hopelessly hormonal Celtic mommy.
>
I hope you have lots of fun, and don't have to spend too much time
explaining that you are Irish, not Scottish.  This is something that
really puzzles me - a serious question here:

Why do people associate tartan with Ireland?  (especially Americans, if
you'll pardon me.  I am bemused by the amount of tartan on display at St
Patrick's Day parades)  Modern Irish pipers and male dancers wear the
plain saffron kilt with a green jacket, and female dancers wear those
gorgeous embroidered dresses, also usually green.  Anything that
proclaims itself Scottish associates itself with tartan and thistles,
but Irish Republicanism is always green, never tartan.

Is there any evidence for tartan being worn in Ireland in centuries
past,and if so, how come it fell out of use so completely? Any ideas?

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 11:25:51 1999
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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 12:36:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>

I regularly go to wal-mart and never have a problem finding great solids for
skirts and some wonderful solids. In fact if you want I have a scanned pic I
did of a tunic I did with $1 dollar fabric. The key is to call and ask when
their truck comes in. when it does call and ask the fabric dept what they
got in.
Andy


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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

"The first examples of Christening gowns also date from the 1750s and
1760s..  Previously, a bearing cloth had been wrapped around the
swaddled child for the duration of the ceremony."  Children's Clothes,
Clare Rose, 1989.

"In the prayer book of Edward VI (1549), the minister is driected to
dress the baby n the robe with these words: 'Take this white vesture for
a token of the innocencie, whiche by Gods grace in this holy sacramente
of baptisme, is given unto thee."  A Book of Christenings, Christina
Walkley, 1987.

"One of Mary Thresher's [1698] mantles may have been a christening
mantle.  The 'Rich White Sattain Mantle lined with Sarsnet with Cape and
Sleeves of the same'...were probably  for the child's christening."
Clothes and the Child, Anne Buck, 1996

"An inventory of the christening garments of a child in the seventeenth
century reads thus:--lined white satin cap...white satin palm...deep
cuffs of white satin"  Costume in America, Alice Morse Earle,
1903/repr1970


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Subject: H-COST: Christening gowns/fairy godmothers
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

The book by Walkley that I just mentioned should have been listed as
"Welcome Sweet Babe - A Book of Christenings."  It has a brief chapter
on folklore, as well as several references to godparents, that might
help with your question.
Melissa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 12:35:39 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Joseph Strutt
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 11:55:33 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I searched for the Strutt books on Bibliofind.com.  There were several,
priced $900.00 to $1500.00.

OUCH!!!!

Kathlene

----------
> From: Henk 't Jong <scapreel@tip.nl>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Joseph Strutt
> Date: Sunday, August 29, 1999 8:26 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
> 
> Henk & Pauline 't Jong
> tScapreel
> Medieval Advisors
> Dordrecht, Netherlands
> 
> ----------
> Hi all,
> 
> Cynthia wrote:
> > ...Some interesting things, such as making the pages run all over town
> > to bring (presumably forgotten) clothing from the other residences:
> > 
> > Itm....the xxvij{ti} day of Novembre [1502] to Richard Justice page of
> > the robys for his costes going from Westminster to London in the nyght
> > for a gowne of blewe velvet for the Quene and for his bote hyere viij
d.
> > Itm for conveyeng alle the Quenes lyned gownys from Westminster to
> > London by water and for mens labour that bare the same gownys to the
> > water and from the water v d. Itm for bringing the Quenes furred gownys
> > from London to Westminster and for mens labours that bare the same to
> > and from the water v d. Itm for his costes from Westminster to London
to
> > take the remaynes of suche stuf as remaineth there iiij d. Itm for
going
> > from Westminster to London for vij yerdes quarter di of blake damaske
> > and for a frontlet of golde for the Quene iiij d. and for maing a newe
> > key to the grete standard being in the warderobe of the robys and for
> > mending of boeth lokkes to the same vj d. Sm{a} ----------ij s. viij d.

> > 
> This does not seem the case; the running all over town, I mean, if the
> above citation is what she referring to. The royal palace closest to
London
> (which had the Tower, but that was no real palace) was at Westminster,
next
> to the still existing Westminster Abbey. The large Hall (well worth
> visiting!) of this palace in incorporated in the Houses of Parliament
which
> cover part of the area of the same palace. The Wardrobe, however, was
> situated in the City of London, about halfway between the Tower and the
> palace of Westminster. The Wardrobe was no costume-closet but a set of
> buildings round a yard in which (among other things) the royal plate,
> accessories and clothing were kept when they were not needed. Every
spring
> and autumn in a flurry of activity servants moved summer and winter
clothes
> from palace to wardrobe and vice versa. If you are in London you might do
> worse than to visit, besides Westminster Hall, Wardrobe Place off Carter
> Lane, just south of St Pauls. The little yard is very picturesque and
> Carter Lane is a street, renewed after the 1666 fire, on the original
> medieval plan, and gives an impression of late 17th c London (if you
think
> away modern high rises in the neighbourhood). Incidentally: the College
of
> Arms is just around the corner in a lovely 17th c building around a fore
> court in Upper Thames Street. If you ask nicely, they let you visit the
> hall. Well worth it.
> 
> Henk
> 
> 
> > And lots of different velvets:
> > 
> > [1480] For crimson velvet of Mountpelier in Gascony at xiiij s. and xx
> > s. the yard; for black velvet; black velvet speckled with white; "blue
> > velvet figured with tawny;" white velvet; white velvet with black
spots;
> > tawny velvet; "motley velvet;" "chekkerd velvet;" "grene chaungeable
> > velvet;" "velvet purpull ray [striped] and white;" "velvet russet
> > figury;" "velvet cremysyn figured with white;" at viij s. the yard. 
> > 
> > My notes from this site (copy & paste into word processor) are 30+
> > pages, it's so full of fabric & clothing info.
> > 
> > --
> > Quit shedding skin all over the back seat!  Ouch, don't bite me!  Hey,
> > stop hissing in my ear!  -- St. Patrick driving the snakes out of
> > Ireland -- Mother Goose & Grimm/Mike Peters
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 14:20:09 1999
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From: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 15:31:23 -0400
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-Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>



>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>I hope you have lots of fun, and don't have to spend too much time
>explaining that you are Irish, not Scottish.  This is something that
>really puzzles me - a serious question here:

>Why do people associate tartan with Ireland?  (especially Americans, >if
>you'll pardon me.  I am bemused by the amount of tartan on display at >St
>Patrick's Day parades)  Modern Irish pipers and male dancers wear the
>plain saffron kilt with a green jacket, and female dancers wear those
>gorgeous embroidered dresses, also usually green.  Anything that
>proclaims itself Scottish associates itself with tartan and thistles,
>but Irish Republicanism is always green, never tartan.

>Is there any evidence for tartan being worn in Ireland in centuries
>past,and if so, how come it fell out of use so completely? Any ideas?


<g>  Actually, I've rather resigned myself to being mistaken for Scottish 
in this get-up!  ;-)

As for the Irish Tartan, there are several today, including a new "Irish 
National Tartan" which was very recently adapted. The tartan in Ireland 
represents the counties as opposed to the individual clan patterns of the 
Scottish.   As I understand the history, the most ancient tartan patterns 
didn't commonly appear in Ireland until the very late 1600's, having gained 
in popularity slowly through the century, backed by Irishmen who admired 
the bright patterns of their Scottish friends and neighbours, and these 
were used more for the brat than the kilt.

The Ryan & O'Carroll's (my local supplier) website notes a very brief 
history of the discovery of these early Irish colours, along with samples 
of their modern re-creations.  http://www.irishtartans.com/tartans.html

There's also a mention of historical Irish tartan at 
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Earlyirl.htm under "decoration"  (quite a nice 
site for novices such as myself--everything clearly explained and 
documented!)

Please keep in mind though, my severely limited information on this subject 
comes more from being a native than from actually being knowledgeable. ;-)

Enjoy!
Kerrie 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 14:40:08 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: maybe OT--Christening gowns
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-Poster: john patton <jspatton@trojan.troyst.edu>



Penny Ladnier wrote:
I have seen originals from the ACW period.

What, pray tell, is the "ACW period"?

John

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 18:41:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: maybe OT--Christening gowns
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Hi, Meg,

There is a white batiste christening gown, early 19th century featured in 
January 1999 calendar, Historic Fashions of Women & Children. Gown was worn 
by children in the Manigault family of Charleston, South Carolina and belongs 
to The Charleston Museum. Gown was possibly worn by Ann Manigault (1803-1864) 
-- hard to date since many of the gowns were traditional in style.

Sally 

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 18:48:09 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199908291456.JAA28492@cdale3.midwest.net> <005701bef238$a291b120$c23daccf@e4c2n6> <37C9B6F1.43F09138@trojan.troyst.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: maybe OT--Christening gowns
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

American Civil War

> What, pray tell, is the "ACW period"?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 19:58:46 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: more--Christening gown
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     I can always trust this list for being prompt and helpful with
inforamtion when I do come out of lurk mode.  These references give me a
start.  THANKS!   : )
     Melissa, yours is the earliest reference so far.  Thanks!  I'll look
for the Walkley book.  In the meantime, do you have any further references
from the book?  They could be very helpful to me.  Edward VI (Henry VIII's
only surviving son) was born on October 12, 1537.  That he would wear a
christening gown at 12 yrs old seems unlikely, but that age would certainly
fit a modern equivalent for Confirmation.  Of course, the prayer book might
have been written when Edward VI was twelve years old and what was said
prior to his christening was reported belatedly in the 1549 prayer book. 
Can you tell from the material surrounding the Walkley book's quote?
     Hey, Penny...good to 'see' you!  Where have you seen the ACW gowns? 
Are they currently on display?  Can you remember any details such as
whether they were embroidered and if so, how much and with what?  (BTW,
your web site is looking TOTALLY professional, milady.  Many
compliments....)
     Sally, was the Manigault family originally from France as the name
seems to indicate?  My baby son is currently working in Williamsburg, VA
and could *possibly* find a copy of the calendar if you know where he can
check.  
     If anyone else has additional information, please join in.

Meg  
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 21:38:11 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilts  & Tartan in Medieval Period
In-Reply-To: <199908280254_MC2-82A8-8A9F@compuserve.com>
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>

>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
(snip)
>Also the great kilt & the small kilt are two different things and may well
>have originated from an earlier form, which may or may not be mentioned in
>this book, I can't remember. Obviously something inspired somebody to wear
>a blanket around their waist, they didn't all spontaneously do it for no
>reason . THe tartan was worn as a mantle though earlier & this is roughly
>the same size as the GK, so presumable it followed from there after all
>Great kilts are hardy a great work of tailoring. And big bits of cloth are
>used for many styles of clothing across many cultures eg Saris, peplos,
>toga, tube dress etc.
>
>Mel

(grin)
I can answer that -- they started belting their cloaks up around the waist
because it would get awfully wet if they were walking through the heathery
moors and abundant streams with it unbelted!  Form follows function,
IMNSHO.  Writers also remarked that the Scottish Highlanders' shoes
sometimes had slits in them, to allow water to escape.  So it was a pretty
wet environment.  It makes much more sense to have one's lower legs
unclothed if they're getting wet constantly; you can always dry your legs
off quickly, but woolen trews take a lot longer to dry out.

I think we need to define some terms here.

Tartan = the checked weave of the cloth.  Checked cloth of various sorts is
very ancient, dating to the 5th century BC and before, and was not confined
strictly to peoples of Celtic origins -- there are examples from the
Tocharian culture (an Indo-European people that made it as far east as
Western China) and, I think, the Scythians are said to have worn checked
fabrics.  The Thorsberg Mantle (found in Norway or Sweden, I forget which)
was blue/white checked fabric.  These other cultures seem ultimately to
have abandoned the more elaborate forms of checked fabric weaves, whereas
the Scots kept them.

Plaid = the blanket made of tartan cloth, worn as a great kilt (men) or
arisaidh (women).  The plaid could also be of plain material (blue, grey,
brown, etc), as well as tartan.

Great kilt = the plaid, belted around the waist and pinned over the
shoulder (usually), as worn by men.

The great kilt seems to have originated around 1500, since there are no
documentable examples or mentions of it any earlier.
The smaller kilt seems, by all accounts, to have originated in the 18th
century.

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 21:38:17 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the
  Medieval  Period
In-Reply-To: <199908280254_MC2-82A8-8AA1@compuserve.com>
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>

At 02:54 AM 08/28/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>>to look like movies and their fantasies of what medieval Scots looked like
>- - which is thier
>option.
>
>The thing to remember is being Scots dosen't mean being a highlander ie not
>all Scots ARE highlanders, certainly Wallis wasn't neither were many of the
>'heros' of Scotlands past.
>
>Tartan fabric, but not tartan specific to a clan is recorded far back. The
>wearing of large pieces of fabric is common in many cultures, which at the
>end of the day is all a great kilt is, doubles nicely as a blanket. So on
>the assumption that the tartan fabric came out as a large piece of fabric,
>that was probably worn in some form ! Probably more cloak or mantle like . 
> Also you are looking at highlanders when you look for kilts really
>remember. Then there is the movment of Scots & Irish mixed in there too.
>but the saffron shirt is more significant here. and whilst NOT a kilt has
>lower pleats where a kilt might be, thus possibily inspiring the pleats of
>the kilt later on ?
>
>Mel

No, Mel, it's pretty clear from reading McClintock that the pleated kilt is
basically the plaid (a large cloak/blanket, called in earlier Gaelic the
'brat'), belted up around the waist.  The leine might fall in folds, but it
was NOT pleated, so far as I've been able to determine.

Regards,
Mara



Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 21:31:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: more--Christening gown
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

Re: the prayer book of Edward the VI.
>  Of course, the prayer book might
> have been written when Edward VI was twelve years old and what was said
> prior to his christening was reported belatedly in the 1549 prayer book. 

The prayer book was the first book of common prayer sponsored by 
Edward VI when he became king. It is the book which all the country 
was to use for their devotions and ceremonies. It is the book which 
was the foundation of the Anglican church and portions of it are 
still being used.

I suspect that it had nothing to do with E6's christening so much as 
stating what the christenings for the entire country were to be like 
(since they weren't to do the "popish" ones in previous use.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 22:53:58 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval
	 Period
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

It was mentioned

>but the saffron shirt is more significant here.

I know that everyone has something to say about the kilt, plaid, tartan, 
thread, as well as quoting McClintock and Dunbar, who are truly the only 
research that we have on this time. 

    But there has been some speculation about the saffron shirt situation. 
Some things are so easily taken for granted, and not completely looked into. 
But if you will check, the saffron shirt was not quite as wide spread in use 
as some seem to think. So talk of it in the late 17 to early 18th century, 
and others completely forget about mentioning it at all. Which can't help to 
make one question the seemingly wide spread use of that yellow-gold color for 
shirts. That also brings up different questions with regard to the saffron 
color dye and it's uses on other items of the period, such as aprons or other 
articles of clothing. How wide spread was it's use, and for how long was it a 
style? My personal theory is that it was used, but only in small quantities, 
and not as wide spread as would be thought. Besides when one thinks of the 
bright color, I can see how just a small quantity of saffron could stand out 
more prominently because of it's eye catching quality. 

    I really wonder about some of the items that we "all know" and there 
validity. Please pardon my speculation on certain items, but I don't mind 
finding new research, and those that know of more primary documentation 
please contact me off list so that we might discuss this. 

Thank you,
Susan 

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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: more--Christening gown
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 22:17:27 -0500
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     Oh, my, I did indeed mistake that one, huh?  I was concentrating so
much on one detail in question that I missed the cannon ball's approach. 
Sorry....  Thanks.
Meg

----------
> From: kat@grendal.rain.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: more--Christening gown
> Date: Sunday, August 29, 1999 2:48 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com
> 
> Re: the prayer book of Edward the VI.
> >  Of course, the prayer book might
> > have been written when Edward VI was twelve years old and what was said
> > prior to his christening was reported belatedly in the 1549 prayer
book. 
> 
> The prayer book was the first book of common prayer sponsored by 
> Edward VI when he became king. It is the book which all the country 
> was to use for their devotions and ceremonies. It is the book which 
> was the foundation of the Anglican church and portions of it are 
> still being used.
> 
> I suspect that it had nothing to do with E6's christening so much as 
> stating what the christenings for the entire country were to be like 
> (since they weren't to do the "popish" ones in previous use.)
> 
> 
> Kat 
> 
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Aug 29 23:05:58 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 00:23:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as Scottish
on
St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure contraryness.
Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little limelight!
Being from a near part of the world, which is *just as
good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
attention!

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Vince & Kerrie Lyons
> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 1999 3:31 PM
> To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb
snarks, beware!)
>
>
>
> -Poster: Vince & Kerrie Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
>
>
> >-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> >wrote:
> >
> >I hope you have lots of fun, and don't have to spend too
much time
> >explaining that you are Irish, not Scottish.  This is
something that
> >really puzzles me - a serious question here:
>
> >Why do people associate tartan with Ireland?  (especially
> Americans, >if
> >you'll pardon me.  I am bemused by the amount of tartan
on
> display at >St
> >Patrick's Day parades)  Modern Irish pipers and male
dancers wear the
> >plain saffron kilt with a green jacket, and female
dancers wear those
> >gorgeous embroidered dresses, also usually green.
Anything that
> >proclaims itself Scottish associates itself with tartan
and thistles,
> >but Irish Republicanism is always green, never tartan.
>
> >Is there any evidence for tartan being worn in Ireland in
centuries
> >past,and if so, how come it fell out of use so
completely? Any ideas?
>
>
> <g>  Actually, I've rather resigned myself to being
mistaken
> for Scottish
> in this get-up!  ;-)
>
> As for the Irish Tartan, there are several today,
including a
> new "Irish
> National Tartan" which was very recently adapted. The
tartan
> in Ireland
> represents the counties as opposed to the individual clan
> patterns of the
> Scottish.   As I understand the history, the most ancient
> tartan patterns
> didn't commonly appear in Ireland until the very late
1600's,
> having gained
> in popularity slowly through the century, backed by
Irishmen
> who admired
> the bright patterns of their Scottish friends and
neighbours,
> and these
> were used more for the brat than the kilt.
>
> The Ryan & O'Carroll's (my local supplier) website notes a
very brief
> history of the discovery of these early Irish colours,
along
> with samples
> of their modern re-creations.
> http://www.irishtartans.com/tartans.html
>
> There's also a
> mention of historical Irish tartan at
> http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Earlyirl.htm under
"decoration"
> (quite a nice
> site for novices such as myself--everything clearly
explained and
> documented!)
>
> Please keep in mind though, my severely limited
information
> on this subject
> comes more from being a native than from actually being
> knowledgeable. ;-)
>
> Enjoy!
> Kerrie
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
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majordomo@indra.com
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>


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Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 21:27:21 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
In-Reply-To: <000101bef2a0$0b3897e0$6d0bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

On 8/30/99, "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com> wrote:  Well, I for one,
wear tartan to identify myself as Scottish ... <snip> ...* wondering why
the Irish should get all that attention!
       Well, now, you do have the "Kirkin' of the Tartan" celebrations,
which while some say they are a recently invented celebration, seem to be
growing more and more popular, as are the Scottish Games & Gatherings,
whereas the Irish have only St. Patrick's Day. :-)  And you're always free
to coordinate an effort to have St. Andrews' Day celebrated and promoted
and recognized officially.  Carol [whose ancestors seem to hail from both
Ireland and Scotland]
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 01:40:31 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 12:23 AM 8/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as Scottish
>on
>St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure contraryness.
>Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little limelight!
>Being from a near part of the world, which is *just as
>good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
>attention!
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
>
E H-COSTUME
>

Why not wear your tartan on St. Andrew's day rather than St. Patrick's?

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 01:57:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 03:10:25 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Strutt
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>A complete view of the dress and habits of the people of England: from
the establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the present time
(published around 1830.)

I don't know of a reprint if you find one let me know, but I do know
originals are very expensive.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 02:55:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 03:08:33 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Is there an index of articles in CIBA Review available anywhere?

--Charlene

--
The trouble with doing something right the first time is that nobody
appreciates how difficult it was.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 05:31:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 06:44:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: more--Christening gown
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Two other books for you to check out, Cunnington's Costume for Births, 
Marriages, and  Deaths, and Anne Buck's Clothes and the Child.  Both of these 
go back several hundred years.  Both are, of course, English.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 06:07:27 1999
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

Sorry I can't help with the date mystery on Edward VI.  Maybe someone
more familiar with religious ceremonies of the era can advise?

More from Walkley:
"In her study of the list of 'Child bed Linning' compiled by Mary East
in  1698, Pamela Clabburn has suggested that two of the entries may
refer to a christening outfit.  These are '1Rich white Sattain Mantle
lind wth Sasnet [a thin silk fabric] with Cape & Sleeves of ye Same' and
'1 fine point [i.e. lace] Sute of Bib Cuffs gloves two pinners [caps] &
double point forehead Cloth'.  Again there  is no mention of a robe, but
the author argues that at this time the word 'mantle' was used to mean
either a bearing cloth or a sleeved coat or gown.  All the above
garments are white, and if we are to believe the Countess of Derby,
Charlotte de la Tremoille, this was not typical.  In 1628 she wrote:  'I
have informed Madam of the baptism of your nephew...I had him dressed in
white after the French fashion, for here [i.e. in England] they dress
them in colours, which I do not like.' "  (This interpretation of pinner
is different from others I've read.)

Melissa

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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 8/29/99 9:13:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
talk2meg@midwest.net writes:

<<  was the Manigault family originally from France as the name
 seems to indicate?  My baby son is currently working in Williamsburg, VA
 and could *possibly* find a copy of the calendar if you know where he can
 check.   >>

Meg,

1999 calendar is available at www.sallyqueenassociates.com. The retail stores 
are carrying the 2000 calendar, Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries. They 
pull the "old" issues off the shelves in February or March!

For more information on the Manigault family, go to their web site at 
www.charlestonmuseum.com. FYI -- The Charleston Museum was founded in 1773 
modeled after The London Museum. And their costume collection was started in 
the 18th century. They have a great pair of red silk knit breeches! and much 
much more.

Sally
Costume Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries available at
www.sallyqueenassociates.com  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 08:34:15 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan/Kilt
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 09:17:31 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> What would you find?  A rather long piece of uncut fabric (say 6'+ x
> 25" or so) would be fairly obvious.  If nothing else that would be a
> LOT of fabrics scraps.  

And there's still nothing to "prove"  that the scraps were part of a kilt
and not part of some other textile.  Unfortunately most scraps are
minuscule, less than an inch across and not intimately associated with
other scraps.  The difficulties are enormous.

Another more likely configuration for the find  would be impressions left
on metal belt fittings and decorations, tiny bits remaining around pins.

The large textile finds are ones found in areas where the fabric has been
either consistently wet (wool, silk) or consistently dry (linen).  What we
need to find is a post-Roman bog body wearing a kilt -- I suspect that is
about as likely as finding any other documentation.  The other approach
would be to read all of the existing documentation of Scottish finds, try
to develop a hypothesis and test, then experiment (Caution:  we only have
about 100 years of good documentation of digs and a great deal of the
existing material is scattered far and wide, and never reported --
Elizabeth Crowfoot will SOMEDAY publish her textiles of the British Isles
but I stopped holding my breath a decade ago).

Please forgive the rant -- while some have been seeking the kilt, I have
been seeking Viking and Migration/Merovingian dress and take some comfort
at this point from the tribulations of others.

Kristin Page.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 10:09:35 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:21:37 +0000
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Elizabethan pattern
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

If you can't find the Elizabethan pattern in a display in the store 
near you, the permanent number is 8881. I was in Hancock's Saturday 
and they had the new Simplicity catalogs, including the Halloween 
costume book.  It looks as though the Elizabethan and Celtic will be 
the only new historic costumes right now, although the costume 
catalog also shows a 1930's dress.   Not all stores have the new 
patterns and books in yet--I was in a smaller local Hancock on 
Sunday, trying to see if they had some more of some 
Elizabethan-looking lace on sale(the bigger Hancocks had just 3 yards 
left on a reel and I needed six+ according to the pattern  -- lovely 
stuff and 60% off to boot)but no luck.  
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:35:29 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> Is there any evidence for tartan being worn in Ireland in centuries
> past,and if so, how come it fell out of use so completely? Any ideas?

Dunno.  The Hallstatt twill in green and brown plaid dates from ~800 BC,
but that's ancestral Celt not Irish.  As late as the 16th century the Irish
and the Scottish were often considered to be the same people, at least by
the English and the French.

I expect that tartan use declined abruptly when the English banned tartan
use in the 18th century.

Kristin Page

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 11:00:56 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
In-Reply-To: <001e01bef11e$e40b20c0$aa75fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


>   Similar to the Tudor bodice right?

yup.


>    So what you are saying is that it is pretty much the equivalent of
> wearing two bodices, instead of a corset and bodice?  You wouldn't wear a
> corset, a petticoat bodice and a bodice on the outside, right?  2 or 2, not
> 3


I don't know how they wore them back then--I myself wear it with a kirtle
and gown usually, without a corset.  I have worn it over a corset when I'm
wearing fancy Elizabethan court dress.


Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 12:06:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 13:17:47 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Request Reliable Documentation for Kilts in the Medieval 
  Period
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>No, Mel, it's pretty clear from reading McClintock that the pleated kilt
is
basically the plaid (a large cloak/blanket, called in earlier Gaelic the
'brat'), belted up around the waist.  The leine might fall in folds, but it
was NOT pleated, so far as I've been able to determine.

Dunbar describes the leine as ' had sleeves and a wide pleated skirt'

Lucas de Herre  in England 1567-1577 decribed it as a short tunic with long
sleeves and short pleated skirt

The great kilt is not permantly pleated but has a pleat effect and what I
was suggesting was the the pleated effect of the saffron shirt (which has
by scolars in the past been called a kilt as the pictures suggest to their
eyes it might be) was copied into the great kilt wear. ie I like that
pleated effect I think I'll wrap my blanket/brat/or whatever around my
waist & try & make it look like that (probably not a concious thought) so
it started perhaps scrunched up & later became a greater skill of
deliberate (but no permanant) pleats

The wee kilt with permanant pleats is not a large blanket/brat, it was/is a
more deliberate fashion.

Mel
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 13:17:55 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Saffron shirts
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>But there has been some speculation about the saffron shirt situation. 
Some things are so easily taken for granted, and not completely looked
into. 
But if you will check, the saffron shirt was not quite as wide spread in
use 
as some seem to think. So talk of it in the late 17 to early 18th century, 
and others completely forget about mentioning it at all. Which can't help
to 
make one question the seemingly wide spread use of that yellow-gold color
for 
shirts.

Most of the material I have mention saffron shirts for Irish & Scottish
clothing early on, prior to the split of clothing types of the 2

> That also brings up different questions with regard to the saffron 
color dye and it's uses on other items of the period, such as aprons or
other 
articles of clothing. How wide spread was it's use, and for how long was it
a 
style? My personal theory is that it was used, but only in small
quantities, 
and not as wide spread as would be thought. Besides when one thinks of the 
bright color, I can see how just a small quantity of saffron could stand
out 
more prominently because of it's eye catching quality. 

As far as I have been able to asetain, saffron was not avaliable to the
majority of the saffron shirt wearers in the earlier period. However a
bright yellow can be achieved very easily with several plants, onion skins
particularly springs to mind. However this dosen';t answer the question of
why they were called saffron shirts as opposed to onion skin shirts or
whatever :), unless the describers were familiar with the more expensive
saffron as a dyestuff and described it such ? Like we say orange for a
colour & a fruit , what can first the colour or the fruit ? Anyone know ?

Mel
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 13:17:54 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ciba Reviws
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

No a complete list, but the early and most interesting ones :)

Mel

A list of principal contents of CIBA Review



        1               Medieval Dyeing
        2               India, its Dyers, and its Colour Symbolism
        3               Wall-coverings
        4               Purple
5               Tapestry
        6               Silks of Lyons
        7               Scarlet
        8               The Dressing of Hides in the Stone Age
        9               Dyeing and Tanning in Classical Antiquity
10      Trade Routes and Dye Markets in the Middle Ages 
11      The Early History of Silk 
12      Weaving and Dyeing in Ancient Egypt and Babylon
1 3     Guild Emblems and their Significance
        14              Cloth-making in Flanders
        15              Pile Carpets of the Ancient Orient
16      The Loom
        1 7             Dress Fashions of the Italian Renaissance
        18              Great Masters of Dyeing in Eighteenth-Century
France
        19              The Exchange
20      The Development of the Textile Crafts in Spain
21      Weaving and Dyeing in North Africa
2 2     Crafts and the Zodiac
23      The European Carpet
24      The Basle Ribbon Industry
        25              Paris Fashion Artists of the Eighteenth Century
26      Medieval Cloth Printing in Europe
27      The Textile Trades in Medieval Florence
28      The Spinning Wheel
        29              Venetian Silks
        30              The Essentials of Handicrafts and the Craft of
Weaving among Primitive Peoples
        31              Textile Printing in Eighteenth Century France
        32              Children's Dress
        33              Bark Fabrics of the South Seas
34       Development of Footwear
35      The Hat
36       Indian Costumes
37      Textile Ornament
38      Neckties
39      Madder and Turkey Red   
40      Turkestan and its Textile Crafts 
41       The Human Figure in Textile Art
42      The Umbrella
43       Early Oriental Textiles
44       Ikats
45       Crafts of the Puszta Herdsmen
46      Crinoline and Bustle
47      Cloth Merchants of the Renaissance as Patrons of Art
48      The History of the Textile Crafts in Holland    
49              Flax and Hemp
50              Medieval Embroidery     
51              Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy
52      The Ship of the Dead in Textile Art
53      Silk Moths
54      Basketry and Woven Fabrics of the European Stone and Bronze Ages
55      Swiss Peasant Costumes
56      Soap    
57      Medieval Dress  
58      Batiks
59      The Reel        
60      Roumanian Peasant Textiles
61      Gloves
62      Swiss Fairs and Markets in the Middle Ages
63      Basic Textile Techniques
64      Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages      
65      The Cloth Trade and the Fairs of Champagne
66      Peasant Textile Art     
67      Colbert and the French Wool Manufacture
68      Dyeing among Primitive Peoples
69      Textile Art in Sixteenth-Century France
70      Textile Art in Ancient Mexico   
71      Costumes of Porcelain Statuettes        
72      Paper 
73      Lace    
74      Australia, the Land of Wool     
75      Byzantine Silks
76      Early American Textiles 
77      Flags
78      Fashions and Textiles of Queen Elizabeth's Reign
79      Swiss Linen Embroidery
80      Lucchese Silks
8 I             The Early History of Tanning 82 Water
83                      The Silk and Velvet Industries of Crefeld
84              Maori Textile Techniques 
85              Indigo
86              Scottish Highland Dress 
87              Rubber
88              Swedish Peasant Textiles 
89              The Handkerchief go Textile Arts of the North American
Indians
90              The Linen Industry of St Gall 
92              Aluminium-Surface' Treatment and Colouring 
93               Uniforms 
94              Alaska Sealskins 
95              Cotton
96              Velvet
97              New Orleans, Centre of the Cotton Trade
98              Persian Textiles 
99              Hard Fibres 
100     Micro-organic Attack on Textiles and Leather 
101     Chromium
102             Turkish Embroideries
I 03            Textiles and Dyestuffs at the Frankfort Fairs
        104             Plangi-Tie and Dye Work
105             Textile Printing in Switzerland 
106             The Stocking
107     Screen Printing
108     jute and its substitutes 
109     Wood
110     Damask
111     Spun Silk
112     pH
I I 3   The Wool Fibre
114     Fur
115     Sir -William Henry Perkin 
116     Coir
117     Tablet Weaving
118     Tanning in Modern Times
119     Zurich Silks 
120     Cibacron Dyes: Special Number
121     Waste Disposal in the Textile, Leather and Paper Industries 
122             The Shirt 
123             Ramie
124     Men's Dress
125     Roller Printing
126     Furnishing Fabrics
I 27     Polyamide and Polyester Fibres 
128     Copper
129     Felt
130     The English Wool Industry 
131      CIBA-75 years
        132     Static Electricity
        133     Coptic Textiles
        134     Physical Textile Testing
135     Rouen-French Textile Centre
1 36    Peruvian Textile techniques
137     Fibres from Addition Polymers
138     Work Clothing
139     Chlorine
140     Fluorescence
141     Mixture Fabrics

1961/1 English Chintz; 2 Colour and its Measurement; 3 Gold and Textiles; 4
Machine-made Carpets; 5 Alchemy and Colour; 6 Textile Arts of the
Araucanians

1962/ 1
 Textile Research Institutes; 2 Manchester-The Origins of Cotton-opolis; 3
Travel and Travel Outfits; 4 The Electron Microscope; 5 Hemp; 6 Assessment
of Modification of Wool During Wet-Processing 

1963/ 1 Artists' colours; 2 Early Chinese Silks; 3 The Catalan Textile
Industry; 4 colours and Patterns in the Animal Kingdom; 5 Glass Fibres; 6
The Plant Laboratory
        
1964/ 1 Dry-cleaning; 2 Dyeing Theory; 3 The Polyolefins; 4 The Physiology
of  Clothing; 5 Energy; 6 Knitting Techniques

1965/ 1   Nonwovens; 2 Flax; 3 Yarn and Thread; 4 Sportswear; 5-6 Sulphur 

1966/1 Slovene Textiles; 2 The Mechanical Loom; 3 Chromatography; 4
Radioactivity
        
1967/1 Animal Motifs on Fabrics; 2 Artificial Silk; 3 Oil from the Earth; 4
Japanese Resist Dyeing Techniques 

1968/1 The Evolution of Mills and Factories; 2 Textiles in Biblical Times;
I Tents; 4 Quality Control and Statistics 

1969/1 Alginates; 2 Contemporary Greek Handweaving; 3 Bamboo

And here a list of those I think I still have in stock

        25              Paris Fashion Artists of the Eighteenth Century 32 
Children's Dress
60      Roumanian Peasant Textiles
64      Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages
65      The Cloth Trade and the Fairs of Champagne
67      Colbert and the French Wool Manufacture
69      Textile Art in Sixteenth-Century France
70      Textile Art in Ancient Mexico   
75      Byzantine Silks
76      Early American Textiles 
83                      The Silk and Velvet Industries of Crefeld
84              Maori Textile Techniques 
85              Indigo
88              Swedish Peasant Textiles 
89              The Handkerchief go Textile Arts of the North American
Indians
90              The Linen Industry of St Gall 
93               Uniforms 
96              Velvet
97              New Orleans, Centre of the Cotton Trade
I 03            Textiles and Dyestuffs at the Frankfort Fairs
111     Spun Silk
I I 3   The Wool Fibre
114     Fur
133     Coptic Textiles
        








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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 14:52:09 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Need contact information
Message-Id: <CS23001.990830160217@Maine.edu>
From: CS23001@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Lisa A. Tyson)
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historic Costuming)
Date:    Mon, 30 Aug 99 16:02:17 EDT
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-Poster: CS23001@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Lisa A. Tyson)

Hi.. sorry to bother this list but I need to contact
Kathy Klocko .. .please send me email..

-- Lisa Tyson      Lisa_Tyson@umit.maine.edu
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 14:49:47 -0600 (MDT)
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From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>


Can anyone help me find these things:

Gloves, preferably white kid gloves in size 8 plus for a lady c1872, so
wrist to half way to elbow length. So far my hands are too big ! Failing
the gloves a pattern for gloves ?

Fans- either blank fans (fabric ) or the staves for making fans

Stocking- cotton & silk stocking again for c1872, plain or emroidered.

Thanks in anticipation

Mel


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 15:42:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 15:53:58 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I have a collection of glove patterns and books. I have one pattern online
if you cannot find the gloves. But ebay has over 5000 gloves on auction at
any given time. You will find what you need easy enough on there. But if
you cannot wait I may be able to help you with customizing a pattern for
you.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Mon, 30 Aug 1999, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 14:49:47 -0600 (MDT)
> From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
> 
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me find these things:
> 
> Gloves, preferably white kid gloves in size 8 plus for a lady c1872, so
> wrist to half way to elbow length. So far my hands are too big ! Failing
> the gloves a pattern for gloves ?
> 
> Fans- either blank fans (fabric ) or the staves for making fans
> 
> Stocking- cotton & silk stocking again for c1872, plain or emroidered.
> 
> Thanks in anticipation
> 
> Mel
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 16:19:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 17:30:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

I , too, have large hands, and needed kid gloves for re-enacting.  I finally 
found some soft, "washable" leather gloves at a department store -- they have 
silk knit linings which can be cut out, and if you buy them snug, they pass 
pretty well.

I don't know of a source for blank fans, but I know people have snapped up 
decrepit fans at antique stores, etc., and put new fabric on them.

Many Civil War  / Rev War sutlers offer cotton stockings -- Jas Townsend, 
Amazon Drygoods, R & K, Fall River, to name a few that are on line.  I once 
bought a nice heavy pair of silk stockings from a place called Garnet Hill -- 
men's silk knee socks will sometimes be large enough to work as stockings, 
too.

K. Krewer
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 16:36:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 16:42:52
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
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-Poster: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>

Blank white silk fans are available from Dharma Trading Co,
800-542-5227. They're silk over bamboo, 10.5" long, and cost
$5.95.

Usual disclaimer: I don't work for Dharma; I'm just a very 
satisfied customer.



---Caroline Dechert
enilorac@voicenet.com / Carodec@aol.com  / caroline@agcsys.com
"How  fleeting are all  human  passions compared with the 
 massive continuity of ducks."     Dorothy Sayers, Gaudy_Night
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw:      Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 17:31:18 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@MYPAD.COM>
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Date: Friday, August 27, 1999 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown


>>snip
>>>  This winter I'm hoping to make either a direct "replica" or a gown
>>> "inspired" by the gown worn by Eleonora da Toledo, Grand Duchess of
>>> Tuscany by Bronzino circa 1540s - the portrait can be seen at:
>>> http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg
>
>
>
>
>The child in the picture with Eleonora of Toledo looks to be wearing a
>simple T tunic and chemise with ruffled collar and neck.  (almost looks
like
>a polo shirt! ;)  )  I wanted to see what everyone thought of this.  I have
>learned fairly recently that children, of either sex, wore gowns like young
>ladies until they were of potty training age.  The pictures that I have
seen
>all apeared to be more elaborate and more fitted than this.
>   As fast as these kids grow, we could be doing ourselfs in, by trying to
>keep up with the new costumes.  It would be far easier to have some of
these
>and maybe one elaborate.  With the blend of Engish and Spanish dress, such
>as the partlet, I would think that we would see more of this type of dress.
>  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 19:37:54 1999
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: glove and fan making
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

I recommend the following webpage for glove information
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/gloves-msg.html
For supplies you might want to try Amazon DryGoods at
www.victoriana.com/Amazon
Carol Mitchell



===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 21:31:26 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:39:33 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

WinterSilks has silk boot liners that pass pretty well for silk stockings.  
Their new winter catalogue is out, so they should have everything in stock.  
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 23:02:08 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>

> Does anyone know of an inexpensive source for 10 oz cotton duct or similar
> weight?

My supplier for cotton duct is Marmelstein's, 760 S. Fourth Street,
Philadephia, Penn. 19147-3196, 215-925-9862.  I would reccomend call during
normal busines hours during the week.

DSM

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 21:45:15 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Mallard Green Wool Satin
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:32:37 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Found this in my e-mail, thought some of you might be
interested:

 mallard green wool satin ($15.98, 52").

Call (508)678-5187 or write aafabrics@aol.com for
samples.

Apple Annie's is a better fabric store in Swansea, Mass.
They swatch free per your e-mail request and will cut and
send yardage.

Hope H. Dunlap



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	 Mon, 30 Aug 1999 19:56:38 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:17:58 -0400
Message-ID: <000301bef35d$bc2b1240$e10bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Tell me what St. Andrews Day is!  Then I will be the only
American practicing it.  It's easier to make a statement in
the shadow of the dominant culture -- at least you have
company.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 1:41 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb
snarks, beware!)
>
>
>
> -Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
>
> At 12:23 AM 8/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> >
> >Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as
Scottish
> >on
> >St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure contraryness.
> >Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little limelight!
> >Being from a near part of the world, which is *just as
> >good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
> >attention!
> >
> >Hope H. Dunlap
> >
> E H-COSTUME
> >
>
> Why not wear your tartan on St. Andrew's day rather than
St.
> Patrick's?
>
> Cheers,
> Ron Carnegie
> rcarnegie@widomaker.com
> 	*************************************************
> 	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact
that
> 	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground
walked
> 	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
> 	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
> 	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
> 	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
> 				G.M. Trevelyan
> 	*************************************************
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 21:59:12 1999
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Message-Id: <199908310311.VAA16672@sight.vcn.com>
From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 21:16:11 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  November 30.... 
   And I don't think the Irish are the least bit upset by all the plaid
Scotsmen!

Liadain

> Tell me what St. Andrews Day is!  Then I will be the only
> American practicing it.  It's easier to make a statement in
> the shadow of the dominant culture -- at least you have
> company.
> 
> Hope H. Dunlap
> 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
> > Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 1:41 AM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb
> snarks, beware!)
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
> >
> > At 12:23 AM 8/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
> > >
> > >-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> > >
> > >Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as
> Scottish
> > >on
> > >St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure contraryness.
> > >Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little limelight!
> > >Being from a near part of the world, which is *just as
> > >good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
> > >attention!
> > >
> > >Hope H. Dunlap
> > >
> > E H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> > Why not wear your tartan on St. Andrew's day rather than
> St.
> > Patrick's?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Ron Carnegie
> > rcarnegie@widomaker.com
> > 	*************************************************
> > 	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact
> that
> > 	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground
> walked
> > 	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
> > 	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
> > 	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
> > 	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
> > 				G.M. Trevelyan
> > 	*************************************************
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________________
> _____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 22:00:16 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mallard Green Wool Satin
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 21:17:08 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Oooh, seriously yum - do these folks have a Webpage?

Liadain

> Found this in my e-mail, thought some of you might be
> interested:
> 
>  mallard green wool satin ($15.98, 52").
> 
> Call (508)678-5187 or write aafabrics@aol.com for
> samples.
> 
> Apple Annie's is a better fabric store in Swansea, Mass.
> They swatch free per your e-mail request and will cut and
> send yardage.
> 
> Hope H. Dunlap
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 22:01:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 23:19:26 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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Subject: Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things from their belts
References: <E11J15g-0003BK-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

"Carol J. Bell Cannon" wrote:

>               Whom amongst our friends may we current-day folk convince to
> play the role of the servant who would have carried Mesdames'/Monsieurs'
> belongings, so that the Ladies/Lords themselves would have their hands
> unoccupied and be free to do as they wished, unencumbered?  :-)

I enjoy playing servants and I can be persuaded with little trouble to play at
events.

DSM

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 22:12:59 1999
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	 Mon, 30 Aug 1999 20:24:40 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Mallard Green Wool Satin
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 23:28:07 -0400
Message-ID: <000901bef361$a2f205a0$e10bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

No web page.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 11:17 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Mallard Green Wool Satin
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>
>   Oooh, seriously yum - do these folks have a Webpage?
>
> Liadain
>
> > Found this in my e-mail, thought some of you might be
> > interested:
> >
> >  mallard green wool satin ($15.98, 52").
> >
> > Call (508)678-5187 or write aafabrics@aol.com for
> > samples.
> >
> > Apple Annie's is a better fabric store in Swansea, Mass.
> > They swatch free per your e-mail request and will cut
and
> > send yardage.
> >
> > Hope H. Dunlap
> >
> >
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________
_____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 22:13:02 1999
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	 Mon, 30 Aug 1999 20:24:47 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 23:33:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Impossible date for a holiday.  It conflicts with almost the
busiest shopping weekend of the year.  Just can't compete.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 11:16 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb
snarks, beware!)
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>
>   November 30....
>    And I don't think the Irish are the least bit upset by
all
> the plaid
> Scotsmen!
>
> Liadain
>
> > Tell me what St. Andrews Day is!  Then I will be the
only
> > American practicing it.  It's easier to make a statement
in
> > the shadow of the dominant culture -- at least you have
> > company.
> >
> > Hope H. Dunlap
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> > [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > > Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
> > > Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 1:41 AM
> > > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > > Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb
> > snarks, beware!)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
> > >
> > > At 12:23 AM 8/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > >-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> > > >
> > > >Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as
> > Scottish
> > > >on
> > > >St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure
contraryness.
> > > >Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little
limelight!
> > > >Being from a near part of the world, which is *just
as
> > > >good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
> > > >attention!
> > > >
> > > >Hope H. Dunlap
> > > >
> > > E H-COSTUME
> > > >
> > >
> > > Why not wear your tartan on St. Andrew's day rather
than
> > St.
> > > Patrick's?
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Ron Carnegie
> > > rcarnegie@widomaker.com
> > > 	*************************************************
> > > 	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous
fact
> > that
> > > 	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground
> > walked
> > > 	 other men and women as actual as we are today,
thinking
> > > 	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but
now
> > > 	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly
as we
> > > 	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
> > > 				G.M. Trevelyan
> > > 	*************************************************
> > >
> > >
> >
____________________________________________________________
> > _____
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________
_____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Aug 30 22:22:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 23:39:51 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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Subject: H-COST: Kilts & Tartan in Medieval Period Evidence?
References: <4.0.1.19990829211316.010413b0@saltmine.radix.net>
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>



Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> -Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
>
> The great kilt seems to have originated around 1500, since there are no
> documentable examples or mentions of it any earlier.
> The smaller kilt seems, by all accounts, to have originated in the 18th
> century.

I have always thougth that the earlies evidence for a kilt was the 1590s.  I am
curious what evidence for a kilt i"around 1500"?  Was it a quotation or
drawing?  Where is this evidence reproduced. (Old Highland Dress by
McClintock?, what page?)

David S Mallinak
matchlck@erols.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 00:49:22 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:19 PM 08/30/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>
>"
>
>I enjoy playing servants and I can be persuaded with little trouble to play at
>events.
>
>You're hired!  May I book you for, say, the Mists/Cynaugua war,
Renaissance Pleasure Faire North 5th weekend, and Christmas in Coloma?  I
pay period wages;  I believe a shilling a year for the first, prorated to
two days would be...drat!  where's my multi-century currency exchanger when
I need it?

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 01:35:43 1999
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From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

Hi folks, just sticking in my .02 worth...  

Gleaned from the thorough fulling (= Beating To Death! in hot water,even
:-) of this topic on SCA and other lists.  

* For entertainment only,  Accuracy Not Guaranteed.  (But probly close)
** The Opinions Expressed Herein Are Not Necessarily Those Of The
Author.

Leine: That Shirt Thing, short-ish for men, floor length or so for
women.  	Styling seems to have been about the same for both otherwise. 
The 	sleeves, in case you hear this one, are *not* drawn up with
strings 	inside like Venetian blinds; the wrist opening just happened to
be 	sufficiently narrow to keep the rest of the sleeve bloused up on
the 	arm.
Saffron:  The *color*, in this case the spice prob'ly came first and
was 	well-known enough even to folk who couldn't afford it, to describe 
the color.  Which was achieved with *weld*, a local plant, not to be 
confused with *woad* (which gives blue).
Brat:  Blanket/cape.
Plaid: Blanket/cape/whatever.  (Large woven object.)
Kilt: Boyz in skirtz hoobah!!  
	Wee kilt: 18th-century self-conscious folksyism decremented 	 	from the
Great Kilt; invented for the purpose of Being Scots 		And Proud Of It
	Great kilt:  Tartan plaid all-purpose cape, skirt n top, 			raincoat,
blanket, tent, sleeping bag, body bag, 			girlcatcher,
you-name-it-they-probly-did-too.  
	For everyday, or sudden "hurry up and get dressed we're being 		
attacked!!" wear, wrapped around and tucked in the belt 		whichever way,
"who-cares, we're an army not a fashion 			parade" style ("What they
dinna ken", the lassies peering 		over the hill from just outta sight
snicker)
	For Sunday-dress-up, laid on the ground lengthwise over the belt, 	
carefully pleated, guy lies on the ground on top of this 		and wraps the
belt around it about 1/2 way up, then uses 		any of 250 gzillion ways
(give or take one) of 				wrapping/draping the top part to get it out of
the way, 		look Dashing, and keep warm or cool (depending). (Wish 		
it'd come back in style, be great for Chicago weather!!
	Oh yeah one little note about What They Wear Under Those Things: 		it
is specified in the manual for military parade attire 		that wearing
*anything* under a kilt is considered "out 		of uniform"!  I don't know
when that became Official.

Hope this was worth the bandwidth, for yuks if not use,
Heather
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 01:51:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 03:02:47 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Blank Fans
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Blank white silk fans are available from Dharma Trading Co,
800-542-5227. They're silk over bamboo, 10.5" long, and cost
$5.95.

Great do you have a fax or email for them by any chance ?

Thanks

Mel

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 01:51:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 03:02:48 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gloves
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I have a collection of glove patterns and books. I have one pattern online
if you cannot find the gloves.

Can you tell me where to find it ?

> But ebay has over 5000 gloves on auction at
any given time. You will find what you need easy enough on there.

Not so far, there are plenty of really nice gloves for sure, but none for
my size hands :(

> But if you cannot wait I may be able to help you with customizing a
pattern for
you

I've been looking for 7 months with no luck so your help would be great

Thanks
#
Mel
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

> Impossible date for a holiday.  It conflicts with almost the
> busiest shopping weekend of the year.  Just can't compete.
> 
> Hope H. Dunlap

No way, it's the *best*!!  Think of all those poor confused lemmings out
there in the **malls**, seeing you bopping around classy and sassy in
your tartan arasaid [?sp] and matching skirt, and ...uh..  what-was-it,
a leine and at least one underskirt, i think?  And possibly some kind of
cool bodice, not sure...  

What better time to make a Statement - while getting your shopping done
(using a period basket of course) to boot?  Don't think you're in my
area (Chi IL) but if you were I'd join you for the hoots even if I am
broke :-)

Heather



> > November 30....
> > And I don't think the Irish are the least bit upset by
> > all the plaid Scotsmen!

> > > Tell me what St. Andrews Day is!  Then I will be the only
> > > American practicing it.  It's easier to make a statement in
> > > the shadow of the dominant culture -- at least you have company.

> > > > Why not wear your tartan on St. Andrew's day rather
> > > > than St. Patrick's?

> > > > >Well, I for one, wear tartan to identify myself as Scottish on
> > > > >St. Paddy's Day.  Never, ever green.  Pure contraryness.
> > > > >Borrowing the holiday and stealing a little limelight!
> > > > >Being from a near part of the world, which is *just as
> > > > >good,* wondering why the Irish should get all that
> > > > >attention!
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 05:03:23 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Bone toothbrushes
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Incase anyone out there needs one I have found a source, they work out at
GBP2.70 each plus postage if you need one. Also Horn combs from GBP3.90 and
other horn stuff contact me direct if interested.

Mel
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 05:15:46
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blank Fans
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-Poster: Caroline Dechert <enilorac@voicenet.com>


>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>>Blank white silk fans are available from Dharma Trading Co,
>800-542-5227. They're silk over bamboo, 10.5" long, and cost
>$5.95.
>
>Great do you have a fax or email for them by any chance ?

e-mail catalog@dharmatrading.com

This is a seriously dangerous catalog if you like to play
with fabric before cutting and sewing.

---Caroline Dechert
enilorac@voicenet.com / Carodec@aol.com  / caroline@agcsys.com
"How  fleeting are all  human  passions compared with the 
 massive continuity of ducks."     Dorothy Sayers, Gaudy_Night
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 06:47:46 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com, Status@net.indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dharma
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Dharma has an on-line catalog. Look for

http://www.dharmatrading.com

I've ordered from them and had good results.

Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 06:36:21 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 06:49:12 -0500
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dharma
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Dharma has an on-line catalog. Look for

http://www.dharmatrading.com

I've ordered from them and had good results.

Kim 
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 07:12:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 08:24:09 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Just to be difficult ....

>Saffron:  The *color*, in this case the spice prob'ly came first and
was     well-known enough even to folk who couldn't afford it, to describe 
the color.  Which was achieved with *weld*, a local plant, not to be 
confused with *woad* (which gives blue).

I think the description was probably by those who could have known the
spice, however weld is rare in Scotland, a probably more so in the
highlands

Traditional scottish yellows include. alder, ash, birch, nettles, ragwort,
yarrow to name a veryt few of the easiest to find !
                
>Oh yeah one little note about What They Wear Under Those Things:         
it
is specified in the manual for military parade attire           that
wearing
*anything* under a kilt is considered "out              of uniform"!  I
don't know
when that became Official.

However that's lowlanders for you, there is records of short blue shorts
being worn by highlanders

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 07:14:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 08:23:54 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Celtic RennFaire Outfits (Garb snarks, beware!)
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:33 PM 8/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>Impossible date for a holiday.  It conflicts with almost the
>busiest shopping weekend of the year.  Just can't compete.
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>>
>>
>>   November 30....
>>    And I don't think the Irish are the least bit upset by
>all
>> the plaid
>> Scotsmen!
>>
>> Liadain
>>
>> > Tell me what St. Andrews Day is!  Then I will be the
>only
>> > American practicing it.  It's easier to make a statement
>in
>> > the shadow of the dominant culture -- at least you have
>> > company.
>> >
>> > Hope H. Dunlap
>> >

I am afraid it is to late for you to be the only American celebrating this
holiday.  There are already many Americans WHO do celebrate.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 07:24:42 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 08:34:30 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:22 AM 8/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
>
>Hi folks, just sticking in my .02 worth...  
>
>Gleaned from the thorough fulling (= Beating To Death! in hot water,even
>:-) of this topic on SCA and other lists.  
>
>* For entertainment only,  Accuracy Not Guaranteed.  (But probly close)
>** The Opinions Expressed Herein Are Not Necessarily Those Of The
>Author.
>
>Leine: That Shirt Thing, short-ish for men, floor length or so for
>women.  	Styling seems to have been about the same for both otherwise. 
>The 	sleeves, in case you hear this one, are *not* drawn up with
>strings 	inside like Venetian blinds; the wrist opening just happened to
>be 	sufficiently narrow to keep the rest of the sleeve bloused up on
>the 	arm.

        Actually Leine is simply Gaelic for shirt, so it could and does mean
a lot of things. (Gaelic is making a revival).

>Kilt: Boyz in skirtz hoobah!!  
>	Wee kilt: 18th-century self-conscious folksyism decremented from the
>Great Kilt; invented for the purpose of Being Scots And Proud Of It

        There is some confusion about the actual creator of the philabeg
(small kilt), but this is the first I have heard claiming it as a folkism!
It WAS either created for tradesman or soldiers is the usual story.   They
were in use in America by the french indian war (seven years war).  Of
course by that time the proscription was in effect in Scotland.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 07:47:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 07:58:19 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gloves
In-Reply-To: <199908310302_MC2-82FF-BB07@compuserve.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

http://www.io.com/~ches/gloves.html



Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 31 Aug 1999, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 03:02:48 -0400
> From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: Gloves
> 
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> 
> >I have a collection of glove patterns and books. I have one pattern online
> if you cannot find the gloves.
> 
> Can you tell me where to find it ?
> 
> > But ebay has over 5000 gloves on auction at
> any given time. You will find what you need easy enough on there.
> 
> Not so far, there are plenty of really nice gloves for sure, but none for
> my size hands :(
> 
> > But if you cannot wait I may be able to help you with customizing a
> pattern for
> you
> 
> I've been looking for 7 months with no luck so your help would be great
> 
> Thanks
> #
> Mel
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 08:15:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 06:27:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wow!
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I just have to share my awe and jealousy for a
moment... here I am... supposed to be working, but I
am playing on e-Bay instead... and I come across a
company selling their entire costume collection...
now, it is $200,000 and takes 3500 square feet of
space, but I thought ya'll might just get the
amusement out of looking that I did...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153740240

Sarah


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 10:29:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 10:35:58 -0500 (CDT)
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Blackwork Cuffs and collar (fwd)
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Can anyone help him with his question? I will foward any responses if you
want to send them to me privatel.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 09:41:08 -0500
From: Brent Ryder
Subject: Blackwork Cuffs and collar


I am thinking of doing a set of Blackwork cuffs and a collar for Kingdom A&S. I
have a picture of a Holbein painting that I am going to use as a pattern.

Does anyone know what type of cloth and the thread count that would have been
used?

Borek


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Kilt shirts were long, at least mid-thigh length. They were slit at the
hip, and diapered, thus eliminating the need for another undergarment.



					Arlys


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>	Oh yeah one little note about What They Wear Under Those Things: 		it
>is specified in the manual for military parade attire 		that wearing
>*anything* under a kilt is considered "out 		of uniform"! 

If tht's a concept that gladdens your heart, go to this URL:
http://www.geocities.com/WestHollywood/2663/

I think this picture may be faked, but it's still fun.

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 11:46:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 12:57:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume College
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-Poster: DzMzLzy@aol.com

In a message dated 8/27/99 6:49:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
BWilson@gesexpo.com writes:

> 
>  Does anyone know if they tape some of the sessions for costume college, or
>  if anyone is taping them, I would be willing to pay to get copies of some 
of
>  the sessions (primarily SCA period related ones) ?
>  

No, the classes are not taped due to the problems of rights and permissions.  
Sorry.  

Liz Gerds
Costume College 2000 committee member.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 12:18:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 12:29:50 -0500 (CDT)
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: new corset thread
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Ok with all this talk of a badly fitted corset and know what a corset is
and what it is supposed to do I want to ask some questions and hopefully
get some real cool answers from all you gurus out there. :)

>From each period, what constitutes a well fitted corset? I.E. what is the
thing supposed to do and how does the creator of such a garment go about
in technical terms of achieving it in modern day.

Do any of you make a pocket for your corset to fit into your bodice? Where
do you put your pocket? Is this technique period?

Inquiring minds want to know..... :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 12:18:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 13:27:24 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
Subject: H-COST: Theatre Mold
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-Poster: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>

Hi,
	 I'm new to this list and I had a simple question for anyone who
chooses to reply. Has anyone worked with a product called Theatre Mold. I'm
told it is a fiber product that can be used to make armor, props and
scenery. Any comments? Thanks.




Joshua G. Webb
Asst. Professor, Dept. of Visual and Performing Arts
University of South Carolina Aiken
471 University Parkway, Aiken SC 29801
Office: 803/641-3343
Fax: 803/641-3691
E-mail: joshw@aiken.sc.edu


"In the anguished, catastrophic times we live in, we feel an urgent need
for theatre that is not overshadowed by events, but arouses deep echoes
within us and predominates over our unsettled period."
Antonin Artaud  (1933)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 12:21:28 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theatre Mold
In-Reply-To: <l03130301b3f1ae40aebb@[129.252.178.234]>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

If this is the stuff I think it is I had a friend work with it once. She
loved it but it got everywhere and if the final product got wet, well,
forget it, it is gone.

I will forward your email to her to see it is the same stuff and let her
get a hold of you privately. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 31 Aug 1999, Josh Webb wrote:

> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 13:27:24 -0400
> From: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Theatre Mold
> 
> 
> -Poster: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
> 
> Hi,
> 	 I'm new to this list and I had a simple question for anyone who
> chooses to reply. Has anyone worked with a product called Theatre Mold. I'm
> told it is a fiber product that can be used to make armor, props and
> scenery. Any comments? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joshua G. Webb
> Asst. Professor, Dept. of Visual and Performing Arts
> University of South Carolina Aiken
> 471 University Parkway, Aiken SC 29801
> Office: 803/641-3343
> Fax: 803/641-3691
> E-mail: joshw@aiken.sc.edu
> 
> 
> "In the anguished, catastrophic times we live in, we feel an urgent need
> for theatre that is not overshadowed by events, but arouses deep echoes
> within us and predominates over our unsettled period."
> Antonin Artaud  (1933)
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 12:27:45 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: HELP ! Gloves, Fans, Stockings
Message-Id: <936121165.24434.978@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 10:39:25 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

I've found blank paper fans at Pier 1 Imports. They come in various colors
and sizes, and look like they'd be fun to play with. Not very expensive,
either.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 13:19:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 11:31:04 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Christmas in Coloma (Was elizabethans hanging things
 from their belts
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 11:19 PM 08/30/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>>
>>"
>>
>>I enjoy playing servants and I can be persuaded with little trouble to
>>play at
>>events.
>>
>>You're hired!  May I book you for, say, the Mists/Cynaugua war,
>Renaissance Pleasure Faire North 5th weekend, and Christmas in Coloma?  I
>pay period wages;  I believe a shilling a year for the first, prorated to
>two days would be...drat!  where's my multi-century currency exchanger when
>I need it?
>
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
Margo! Christmas in Coloma!?!  Please tell us about it.  I can stay at
Ponderosa Pines and participate, or at least attend.

LynnD
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9908311226260.13352-100000@fnord.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: new corset thread
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 14:55:13 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> From each period, what constitutes a well fitted corset? I.E. what is the
> thing supposed to do and how does the creator of such a garment go about
> in technical terms of achieving it in modern day.
>
This changes dramatically throughout history.  Could you narrow your scope
for us?

> Do any of you make a pocket for your corset to fit into your bodice? Where
> do you put your pocket? Is this technique period?
>
I don't.  It might be period for times other than what I do, but I haven't
seen it for Elizabethan or American Revolutionary War, both the areas I'm
familiar with.  AND just because I haven't seen it, doesn't mean it wasn't
used, just that I haven't seen it.
Andrea


> Inquiring minds want to know..... :)
>
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 20:13:45 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
In-Reply-To: <199908310824_MC2-82F7-4D50@compuserve.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199908310824_MC2-82F7-4D50@compuserve.com>, Melanie Wilson
<MelanieWilson@compuserve.com> writes
>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>Just to be difficult ....
>
>>Saffron:  The *color*, in this case the spice prob'ly came first and
>was     well-known enough even to folk who couldn't afford it, to describe 
>the color.  Which was achieved with *weld*, a local plant, not to be 
>confused with *woad* (which gives blue).
>
>I think the description was probably by those who could have known the
>spice, however weld is rare in Scotland, a probably more so in the
>highlands
>
>Traditional scottish yellows include. alder, ash, birch, nettles, ragwort,
>yarrow to name a veryt few of the easiest to find !
>                
>>Oh yeah one little note about What They Wear Under Those Things:         
>it
>is specified in the manual for military parade attire           that
>wearing
>*anything* under a kilt is considered "out              of uniform"!  I
>don't know
>when that became Official.
>
>However that's lowlanders for you, there is records of short blue shorts
>being worn by highlanders
>
>Mel


Not on parade!  At the risk of repeating myself, my sister-in-law was in
a Highland OTC regiment, and those chaps were marched out over the
mirror to check they were correctly (un)dressed.  However, it is
considered proper to wear underwear at mess occasions when ladies are
present, or when dancing.  Please remember this, especially if you are
doing Highland dancing on a raised stage with the audience looking up.
Yes, it happened in my group.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: new corset thread
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>



OK...for Elizabethan corsets (1550-1600), my two primary goals are proper
silhouette and comfort.

For proper silhouette, the front of the corset has to be flat--this can be
accomplished with 4 to 6 1/2 inch steel bones, solid poly boning, or a
number of different things.  The bosom should neither fall into the corset
or spill out the top.  Hunnisett Period Patterns for Stage & Screen gives
a great illustration of how a n Elizabethan corset should shape the body
when properly fit, and some common fitting problems. The shoulders should
be back and the back straight--straps on your corset help with this.

Comfort can be achieved by a number of means.  Make sure that, if you have
straps on your corset, they don't dig into the arms when you move your
arms forward.  Use breathable, natural materials for the corset; coutil
breathes, is soft, and is a strong fabric as well.

Also make sure that the corset is not too high on the sides, so that it
doesn't dig into the underarms, and that it isn't too long in the waist so
that it doesn't dig into the hips.  Two great comfort-adders I've found
are boned tabs and lengthening the corset in the center back.  The latter
adds great back support, and the boned tabs eliminate the corset biting
into the waist, chafing around the waist, and bones poking anywhere.

Speaking of bones, they should always be rounded & tipped at the ends, so
that they don't poke through.  There is nothing more uncomfortable than a
pointy bit of steel jabbing your underarm when you can't get to it or
remove it.  Although I use channels sewn between the inner and outer
layers of my corset to slip bones into, they are more secure and less
likely to eventually work free if you use boning tape sewn to the corset
and put the bones inside.

I also make my corsets so that they fit with two inches of space at the
center back.  That way any, um, weight variations can be accomodated for.

Corsets without a busk (using boning down the front instead) are also more
comfortable, though they will usually end up curving out over the abdomen.
If the corset has a deep center point and you want the bodice to stay
straight at the bottom point, you'll want a busk.

Hope this helps,

Drea

 > 
> >From each period, what constitutes a well fitted corset? I.E. what is the
> thing supposed to do and how does the creator of such a garment go about
> in technical terms of achieving it in modern day.
> 
> Do any of you make a pocket for your corset to fit into your bodice? Where
> do you put your pocket? Is this technique period?
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know..... :)
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 15:46:10 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>


If my heritage allows me to recall, this practice of not dressing under
ones kilt is known as going "regimental" which certainly gives it a
military bent and would support the notion of underdressing for social
occasions. This, obviously, would leave ones equipment unprotected hence
certain piercings which allow it to be secured to the leg.


J. Webb


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 14:59:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Christmas in Coloma (Was elizabethans hanging
  things from their belts
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>Margo! Christmas in Coloma!?!  Please tell us about it.  I can stay at
>Ponderosa Pines and participate, or at least attend.
>
>LynnD

I believe it runs for two weekends in December.  The town is decorated for
Christmas, there are carolers and other entertainments, and wrathmaking
workshops.  I haven't participated before, I just completed the docent
training this spring, so I don't have all the details.  I'm going to be
talking to our volunteer coordinator this week, so I'll try to find out more.

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 15:05:30 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kilt, Brat, "Saffron", "Leine..." Word time!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

This, obviously, would leave ones equipment unprotected hence
>certain piercings which allow it to be secured to the leg.
>
Oh, please, not the "Prince Albert" story again!  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 15:22:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 16:35:58 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Josh Webb wrote:
> occasions. This, obviously, would leave ones equipment unprotected hence
> certain piercings which allow it to be secured to the leg.

Now, this is certainly something that I have trouble believing.

I've heard it a few times over the years, and although I know that
having oneself stand at attention at inappropriate times is
embarrassing, I cannot imagine using a pierced ring through the flesh to
tie it down.

Think of all the opportunities for ripping that ring out by accident! 
(Needing to run or jump suddenly, before checking that the string
tension is loose enough; heck, even sitting down would be perilous.) 
Not to mention the pressure of having the thing tied down when it wants
to stand up -- I understand from my male friends that this would be
excruciating.  That sounds like way too much risk to me, and probably
that goes double for you men out there.

Anyone have evidence of this as a common (non-fetish) thing?

cv
--
 You need height to prove that you have Leadership; you need money to
 communicate your views to the voters by means of TV commercials that
 have the subtlety of a Teletubbies episode, but less intellectual content.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 15:24:29 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 16:41:57 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blackwork Cuffs and collar (fwd)
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Hello,

I am also working on a blackwork collar and cuffs for a Tudor outfit. I'm using the same 
fabric that the rest of the shirt will be made of, which is a linen/rayon, and black silk for the 
embroidery. I'm not sure that a specific thread count would have been used in period, since 
the embroidery would have been worked on whatever linen that was used for the shirt. I'm 
not even sure what the thread count is on the fabric I'm using! It definitely is not an 
evenweave. My advice would be to use the same fabric that would be used for the shirt, 
using the weave as a guide (and make sure you have good strong light! I've got good 
eyesight but not everyone does... and trust me, this will strain your eyes!).

Hope this helps!

--Jessica

> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> Can anyone help him with his question? I will foward any responses if you
> want to send them to me privatel.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 09:41:08 -0500
> From: Brent Ryder
> Subject: Blackwork Cuffs and collar
> 
> 
> I am thinking of doing a set of Blackwork cuffs and a collar for Kingdom A&S. I
> have a picture of a Holbein painting that I am going to use as a pattern.
> 
> Does anyone know what type of cloth and the thread count that would have been
> used?
> 
> Borek
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 15:38:51 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Christmas in Coloma (Was elizabethans hanging 
  things from their belts
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I said...
>I believe it runs for two weekends in December.  The town is decorated for
>Christmas, there are carolers and other entertainments, and wrathmaking
>workshops.

Okay, actually the workshops will only make you slightly cranky.....

That's *wreathmaking*, obviously.

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 15:50:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 16:06:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: new corset thread
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9908311441530.25298-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Speaking of comfort in Elizabethan corsets, I have a problem that I was
wondering if anybody else had, had addressed, or knew of any solutions
for: I have a mild case of Scoliosis; my spine is not straight, but rather
has a gentle left-to-right s-curve.  When I wear the well-boned
Elizabethan bodice (very nearly a corset, though not quite proper 
construction) I made in my first year of re-creation, the structure of the
thing forces my spine into something more approaching allignment.  This
makes certain muscle groups in my back work in ways that they're not used
to working, and I end up with serious pain in the muscles on one side.  

Is there any way of fitting the corset better to avoid the pain, or should
I just give up on the idea of wearing well-boned corsets for any length of
time?

Emma, the highly reluctant to suffer for fashion  (also the surprised to
discover another Emma on the list!)

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: new corset thread
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I, too have scoliosis (a 22 degree S-curve).  I strongly suggest trying a
boned-tab corset, perhaps with an extended section on the lower back.
Also,experiment with different lacing tightnesses; you may get away with a
looser fit, if it supports you in the front.  Straps will also help, both
with spreading out the pressure on the back and helping support the bust
if you use a looser fit.

You might try poly-boning a corset; it is not as supportive unless the
corset is pretty much fully boned, but is more flexible than spring steel.
I have a fully-boned, boned-tab corset boned with poly boning, and my
back doesn't complain at all.

I wish you good luck,

Drea

 > > 
> Speaking of comfort in Elizabethan corsets, I have a problem that I was
> wondering if anybody else had, had addressed, or knew of any solutions
> for: I have a mild case of Scoliosis; my spine is not straight, but rather
> has a gentle left-to-right s-curve.  When I wear the well-boned
> Elizabethan bodice (very nearly a corset, though not quite proper 
> construction) I made in my first year of re-creation, the structure of the
> thing forces my spine into something more approaching allignment.  This
> makes certain muscle groups in my back work in ways that they're not used
> to working, and I end up with serious pain in the muscles on one side.  
> 
> Is there any way of fitting the corset better to avoid the pain, or should
> I just give up on the idea of wearing well-boned corsets for any length of
> time?
> 
> Emma, the highly reluctant to suffer for fashion  (also the surprised to
> discover another Emma on the list!)
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 16:53:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 18:04:09 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Highland underwear
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Not on parade!  At the risk of repeating myself, my sister-in-law was in
a Highland OTC regiment, and those chaps were marched out over the
mirror to check they were correctly (un)dressed

But kilts in regiments are mostly worn by lowlanders who wish they were
highlanders (duck)

Actually I was refering to great kilts & traditional use, not the rather
stange way the English banned the kilt except for soldiers type wear...
never could figure that out !

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 17:23:15 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gypsy pattern
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Ebay is bad... I have discovered this *grin*

I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
know where I could find a pattern for the really
frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
Please?

Sarah


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 19:08:43 1999
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X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express for Macintosh - 4.0c (197) 
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 17:19:19 -0700
Subject: H-COST: 19th Century Children's Clothing
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
CC: dale <gluckman@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@jps.net>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3018964759_255346_MIME_Part
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THE LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART
DEPARTMENT OF COSTUMES AND TEXTILES

EXHIBITION ANNOUNCEMENT

THE FASHIONABLE CHILD OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
August 12, 1999 - January 17, 2000

Through the presentation of 30 costumes for boys and girls dating from 1800
to
1900, the exhibition explores the relationship between art and children?s
clothing:  pictorial images variously influenced, and were influenced by,
the
dress of real children.   Highlights include a beautiful silk dress from the
early 1820s, three printed cotton dresses from the 1830s, a boy?s plaid
dress
from the 1860s, a complete boy?s kilt ensemble from the 1880s,  and two
charming
examples of "fancy dress"  and a pink silk "smock" dress from the 1890s. 
Drawn
entirely from the permanent collection, the majority of the objects in this
exhibition were the gift of the late Mrs. Helen Larson whose generosity has
greatly enhanced the department?s collections.  The exhibition is dedicated
to
her memory.   Organized by Dale Carolyn Gluckman, curator of costumes and
textiles.  There is a family guide with six black and white photographs of
paintings of children in the museum?s collection.  For further information
please contact the department at (323) 857-6081; email: jdsierra@lacma.org.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

--MS_Mac_OE_3018964759_255346_MIME_Part
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>19th Century Children's Clothing</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<TT><BR>
THE LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART<BR>
DEPARTMENT OF COSTUMES AND TEXTILES<BR>
<BR>
EXHIBITION ANNOUNCEMENT<BR>
<BR>
THE FASHIONABLE CHILD OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY<BR>
August 12, 1999 - January 17, 2000<BR>
<BR>
Through the presentation of 30 costumes for boys and girls dating from 1800=
 to<BR>
1900, the exhibition explores the relationship between art and children?s<B=
R>
clothing:  pictorial images variously influenced, and were influenced by, t=
he<BR>
dress of real children.   Highlights include a beautiful silk dress from th=
e<BR>
early 1820s, three printed cotton dresses from the 1830s, a boy?s plaid dre=
ss<BR>
from the 1860s, a complete boy?s kilt ensemble from the 1880s,  and two cha=
rming<BR>
examples of &quot;fancy dress&quot;  and a pink silk &quot;smock&quot; dres=
s from the 1890s.  Drawn<BR>
entirely from the permanent collection, the majority of the objects in this=
<BR>
exhibition were the gift of the late Mrs. Helen Larson whose generosity has=
<BR>
greatly enhanced the department?s collections.  The exhibition is dedicated=
 to<BR>
her memory.   Organized by Dale Carolyn Gluckman, curator of costumes and<B=
R>
textiles.  There is a family guide with six black and white photographs of<=
BR>
paintings of children in the museum?s collection.  For further information<=
BR>
please contact the department at (323) 857-6081; email: <FONT COLOR=3D"#0000F=
F"><U>jdsierra@lacma.org</U></FONT>.<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3018964759_255346_MIME_Part--

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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: "Sewing" <sewing@onelist.com>, <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>,
        "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <costumes@onelist.com>,
        <Costumers@onelist.com>
Subject: H-COST: New Simplicity Patterns esp. Zoot and Renaissance
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 20:10:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Apologies for multiple postings...but these topics where brought up on
almost all of these lists in recent months...so here goes...

Well, seems like the Retro collection is as close as you can get. There is a
new pattern out for a men's suit that with just a little tweaking could be a
good Zoot Suit.  It's Pattern # 8879. From what I can see in the sketches,
the pants would need to come up higher on the waist and the waist band
removed. The Jacket needs a wider lapel and a bit more shoulder and
bagginess to the body.

For those that were looking for the new Renaissance and Celtic patterns,
they are up online now also.

http://www.simplicity.com

Regards,

~Kyna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 22:01:21 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Hiring servants, was Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things
  from their belts
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:19 PM 08/30/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>>"I enjoy playing servants and I can be persuaded with little trouble to
play at events.
>
>You're hired!  May I book you for, say, the Mists/Cynaugua war,
>Renaissance Pleasure Faire North 5th weekend, and Christmas in Coloma?  I
>pay period wages;  I believe a shilling a year for the first, prorated to
>two days would be...drat!  where's my multi-century currency exchanger when
>I need it?
>
>Margo Anderson

Now, now, not so fast, Margo. Maybe we need to bid on David's services.<G>
There are several of us who could use a sturdy groom. And Michealmas hiring
day is coming soon!

Master David, I would pay thee two pounds a year plus livery [see, I *did*
keep it costume-related! <g>] plus full board & lodging and will provide
thee a horse with its yearly keeping since I must travel with the Queen
where e're she goes. What say you?
Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 22:01:32 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Hiring servants, was Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things
  from their belts
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:19 PM 08/30/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>>"I enjoy playing servants and I can be persuaded with little trouble to
play at events.
>
>You're hired!  May I book you for, say, the Mists/Cynaugua war,
>Renaissance Pleasure Faire North 5th weekend, and Christmas in Coloma?  I
>pay period wages;  I believe a shilling a year for the first, prorated to
>two days would be...drat!  where's my multi-century currency exchanger when
>I need it?
>
>Margo Anderson

Now, now, not so fast, Margo. Maybe we need to bid on David's services.<G>
There are several of us who could use a sturdy groom. And Michealmas hiring
day is coming soon!

Master David, I would pay thee two pounds a year plus livery [see, I *did*
keep it costume-related! <g>] plus full board & lodging and will provide
thee a horse with its yearly keeping since I must travel with the Queen
where e're she goes. What say you?
Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
joanj@quiknet.com

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Aug 31 23:55:07 1999
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Message-ID: <37CBEE75.EDB06B58@pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 15:02:21 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Organization: Completely Disorganized
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Subject: H-COST: Re: antarctica
References: <000d01bef108$e5f7b080$410bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Hope wrote:

> Thanks for *much* better accuracy!

You're welcome of course, but I must admit to embarrassment. Looking back on
the post, I misspelled pole as pool and poll (twice!). :-} Further evidence
that writing late at night is not conducive to good spelling (something I
strive for) and spellcheck doesn't always help.

> I never saw the BBC Masterpiece Theatre series on the Antarctic Expeditions

I'd encourage evryone to watch it. It was fascinating and very well done.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 01:17:06 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ciba Reviws
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 23:33:42 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

   Can you tell me what this CIBA thing is?  Is it a book, magazine,
convention, etc?
   Michelle


-----Original Message-----
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Monday, August 30, 1999 10:22 AM
Subject: H-COST: Ciba Reviws


>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>No a complete list, but the early and most interesting ones :)
>
>Mel
>
>A list of principal contents of CIBA Review
>
>
>
>        1               Medieval Dyeing
>        2               India, its Dyers, and its Colour Symbolism
>        3               Wall-coverings
>        4               Purple
>5               Tapestry
>        6               Silks of Lyons
>        7               Scarlet
>        8               The Dressing of Hides in the Stone Age
>        9               Dyeing and Tanning in Classical Antiquity
>10      Trade Routes and Dye Markets in the Middle Ages
>11      The Early History of Silk
>12      Weaving and Dyeing in Ancient Egypt and Babylon
>1 3     Guild Emblems and their Significance
>        14              Cloth-making in Flanders
>        15              Pile Carpets of the Ancient Orient
>16      The Loom
>        1 7             Dress Fashions of the Italian Renaissance
>        18              Great Masters of Dyeing in Eighteenth-Century
>France
>        19              The Exchange
>20      The Development of the Textile Crafts in Spain
>21      Weaving and Dyeing in North Africa
>2 2     Crafts and the Zodiac
>23      The European Carpet
>24      The Basle Ribbon Industry
>        25              Paris Fashion Artists of the Eighteenth Century
>26      Medieval Cloth Printing in Europe
>27      The Textile Trades in Medieval Florence
>28      The Spinning Wheel
>        29              Venetian Silks
>        30              The Essentials of Handicrafts and the Craft of
>Weaving among Primitive Peoples
>        31              Textile Printing in Eighteenth Century France
>        32              Children's Dress
>        33              Bark Fabrics of the South Seas
>34       Development of Footwear
>35      The Hat
>36       Indian Costumes
>37      Textile Ornament
>38      Neckties
>39      Madder and Turkey Red
>40      Turkestan and its Textile Crafts
>41       The Human Figure in Textile Art
>42      The Umbrella
>43       Early Oriental Textiles
>44       Ikats
>45       Crafts of the Puszta Herdsmen
>46      Crinoline and Bustle
>47      Cloth Merchants of the Renaissance as Patrons of Art
>48      The History of the Textile Crafts in Holland
>49              Flax and Hemp
>50              Medieval Embroidery
>51              Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy
>52      The Ship of the Dead in Textile Art
>53      Silk Moths
>54      Basketry and Woven Fabrics of the European Stone and Bronze Ages
>55      Swiss Peasant Costumes
>56      Soap
>57      Medieval Dress
>58      Batiks
>59      The Reel
>60      Roumanian Peasant Textiles
>61      Gloves
>62      Swiss Fairs and Markets in the Middle Ages
>63      Basic Textile Techniques
>64      Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages
>65      The Cloth Trade and the Fairs of Champagne
>66      Peasant Textile Art
>67      Colbert and the French Wool Manufacture
>68      Dyeing among Primitive Peoples
>69      Textile Art in Sixteenth-Century France
>70      Textile Art in Ancient Mexico
>71      Costumes of Porcelain Statuettes
>72      Paper
>73      Lace
>74      Australia, the Land of Wool
>75      Byzantine Silks
>76      Early American Textiles
>77      Flags
>78      Fashions and Textiles of Queen Elizabeth's Reign
>79      Swiss Linen Embroidery
>80      Lucchese Silks
>8 I             The Early History of Tanning 82 Water
>83                      The Silk and Velvet Industries of Crefeld
>84              Maori Textile Techniques
>85              Indigo
>86              Scottish Highland Dress
>87              Rubber
>88              Swedish Peasant Textiles
>89              The Handkerchief go Textile Arts of the North American
>Indians
>90              The Linen Industry of St Gall
>92              Aluminium-Surface' Treatment and Colouring
>93               Uniforms
>94              Alaska Sealskins
>95              Cotton
>96              Velvet
>97              New Orleans, Centre of the Cotton Trade
>98              Persian Textiles
>99              Hard Fibres
>100     Micro-organic Attack on Textiles and Leather
>101     Chromium
>102             Turkish Embroideries
>I 03            Textiles and Dyestuffs at the Frankfort Fairs
>        104             Plangi-Tie and Dye Work
>105             Textile Printing in Switzerland
>106             The Stocking
>107     Screen Printing
>108     jute and its substitutes
>109     Wood
>110     Damask
>111     Spun Silk
>112     pH
>I I 3   The Wool Fibre
>114     Fur
>115     Sir -William Henry Perkin
>116     Coir
>117     Tablet Weaving
>118     Tanning in Modern Times
>119     Zurich Silks
>120     Cibacron Dyes: Special Number
>121     Waste Disposal in the Textile, Leather and Paper Industries
>122             The Shirt
>123             Ramie
>124     Men's Dress
>125     Roller Printing
>126     Furnishing Fabrics
>I 27     Polyamide and Polyester Fibres
>128     Copper
>129     Felt
>130     The English Wool Industry
>131      CIBA-75 years
>        132     Static Electricity
>        133     Coptic Textiles
>        134     Physical Textile Testing
>135     Rouen-French Textile Centre
>1 36    Peruvian Textile techniques
>137     Fibres from Addition Polymers
>138     Work Clothing
>139     Chlorine
>140     Fluorescence
>141     Mixture Fabrics
>
>1961/1 English Chintz; 2 Colour and its Measurement; 3 Gold and Textiles; 4
>Machine-made Carpets; 5 Alchemy and Colour; 6 Textile Arts of the
>Araucanians
>
>1962/ 1
> Textile Research Institutes; 2 Manchester-The Origins of Cotton-opolis; 3
>Travel and Travel Outfits; 4 The Electron Microscope; 5 Hemp; 6 Assessment
>of Modification of Wool During Wet-Processing
>
>1963/ 1 Artists' colours; 2 Early Chinese Silks; 3 The Catalan Textile
>Industry; 4 colours and Patterns in the Animal Kingdom; 5 Glass Fibres; 6
>The Plant Laboratory
>
>1964/ 1 Dry-cleaning; 2 Dyeing Theory; 3 The Polyolefins; 4 The Physiology
>of  Clothing; 5 Energy; 6 Knitting Techniques
>
>1965/ 1   Nonwovens; 2 Flax; 3 Yarn and Thread; 4 Sportswear; 5-6 Sulphur
>
>1966/1 Slovene Textiles; 2 The Mechanical Loom; 3 Chromatography; 4
>Radioactivity
>
>1967/1 Animal Motifs on Fabrics; 2 Artificial Silk; 3 Oil from the Earth; 4
>Japanese Resist Dyeing Techniques
>
>1968/1 The Evolution of Mills and Factories; 2 Textiles in Biblical Times;
>I Tents; 4 Quality Control and Statistics
>
>1969/1 Alginates; 2 Contemporary Greek Handweaving; 3 Bamboo
>
>And here a list of those I think I still have in stock
>
>        25              Paris Fashion Artists of the Eighteenth Century 32
>Children's Dress
>60      Roumanian Peasant Textiles
>64      Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages
>65      The Cloth Trade and the Fairs of Champagne
>67      Colbert and the French Wool Manufacture
>69      Textile Art in Sixteenth-Century France
>70      Textile Art in Ancient Mexico
>75      Byzantine Silks
>76      Early American Textiles
>83                      The Silk and Velvet Industries of Crefeld
>84              Maori Textile Techniques
>85              Indigo
>88              Swedish Peasant Textiles
>89              The Handkerchief go Textile Arts of the North American
>Indians
>90              The Linen Industry of St Gall
>93               Uniforms
>96              Velvet
>97              New Orleans, Centre of the Cotton Trade
>I 03            Textiles and Dyestuffs at the Frankfort Fairs
>111     Spun Silk
>I I 3   The Wool Fibre
>114     Fur
>133     Coptic Textiles
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 01:17:08 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 23:31:47 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Then, it should work to use the new Elizabeth, Simplicity, without the slope
in the breast area to make the corset in the Janet arnold book, right?  (The
one with the boning absent where the breasts would be)
  Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, August 30, 1999 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust


>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>>   Similar to the Tudor bodice right?
>
>yup.
>
>
>>    So what you are saying is that it is pretty much the equivalent of
>> wearing two bodices, instead of a corset and bodice?  You wouldn't wear a
>> corset, a petticoat bodice and a bodice on the outside, right?  2 or 2,
not
>> 3
>
>
>I don't know how they wore them back then--I myself wear it with a kirtle
>and gown usually, without a corset.  I have worn it over a corset when I'm
>wearing fancy Elizabethan court dress.
>
>
>Drea
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 01:43:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 23:56:25 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gypsy costume
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Sarah, you'll need to elaborate on the kind of Gypsy outfit you want.  Are
you looking for historical authenticity?  If so, forget almost everything
you've seen; it's almost all Hollywood Gypsy.  If, on the other hand,
you're talking about the fanciful outfits, try www.birchstreetclothing.com
for a good Gypsy skirt that flares and floofs wonderfully.  Or, if you want
information on how to make the Dunyavi Gypsy style superfull skirts, ask me
offline.  It isn't a historical topic.  But they're very fun to make and wear!

Historical Gypsy styles for any particular Gypsy group are usually a
hodgepodge of designs from the areas that they lived and travelled.
Documentation is sparse before photography.  I've seen old paintings
captioned as showing "Gypsy bands" or such, but I think those are often
guesses or catchalls for any unknown people who seem to be wandering
through someone else's pictures.  

Leslie
leslie@canfield.com
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